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THE TOPOGRAPHICAL,
STATISTICAL, AND HISTORICAL
GAZETTEER OF
SCOTLAND.
VOLUME FIRST.
A— H.
GLASGOW:
A. FULLARTON & CO., BRUNSWICK STREET;
5. NICOLSON STREET, EDINBURGH; CROWN STREET, ABERDEEN; BARRACK
STREET, DUNDEE; QUEEN STREET, DUMFRIES;
AND 12, KING'S SQUARE, GOSWELL STREET ROAD, LONDON.
1842.
GLASGOW
FULLARTOH AND CO., pktNTERfl, VILI.AFIBI.n.
ADVERTISEMENT.
T is pretty generally known that the most authentic and valu-
able mass of facts and statistical details ever brought together,
in relation to the Ecclesiastical, Educational, and Municipal
institutions of Scotland, are to be found in the several extensive series of
i Reports which have been published, within the last ten years, by the
different Parliamentary and Royal Commissions appointed to inquire into
these matters. An elaborate and careful digest of the information contained
in these Reports forms the principal feature of value in The Topo-
graphical, Statistical, and Historical Gazetteer of Scotland,
which will be found to contain, in an abstract and condensed yet com-
prehensive form, not the results only, but also a considerable portion of
the details embraced in the voluminous Reports of which the following
is a list :
I. Reports of the Royal Commissioners appointed to inquire into the State of the
Universities of Scotland. Published between the years 1830 and 1839, in 5 vols,
folio.
II. Reports upon the Boundaries of the several Cities, Burghs, and Towns in Scot-
land, in respect to the Election of Members to serve in Parliament. Published
in 1832, in folio.
III. Reports of the Commissioners appointed to inquire into the State of Municipal
Corporations in Scotland. Published in 1835, in 2 vols, folio.
IV. Abstract of the Answers and Returns on the subject of Education in Scotland,
made pursuant to an Address of the House of Commons dated 9th July, 1834.
Published in 1837, in folio.
V. Reports of the Commissioners of Religious Instruction in Scotland. Published
betwixt the years 1837 and 1839, in 9 vols, folio.
VI. Reports by the Inspectors of Prisons in Scotland. Published betwixt the years
1836 and 1842, in 6 vols, folio.
The Reports now enumerated have furnished the most valuable mate-
rials to the present Work ; and in the existence of such documents as
ADVERTISEMENT.
these, the Compilers of this Gazetteer conceive themselves to have
enjoyed advantages above all their predecessors in the same department
of literature. The following Parliamentary papers have also afforded
much interesting and valuable matter, viz. :
I. The Reports of the Commissioners on Highland Roads and Bridges.
II. The Reports of the Commissioners under the Act for building additional Places
of Worship in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland.
III. The Reports of the Commissioners for making and maintaining the Caledonian
Canal.
IV. Reports of the Commissioners on the Herring Fishery.
V. Reports of the Commissioners on Northern Lights.
VI. Returns on the Small Debt Courts, Prisons, Burgh- Revenues, Electoral Inhabi-
tants, Teinds, Crown- Revenues, &c. of Scotland.
The Publishers feel themselves warranted in claiming for their volumes
a superiority over every other existing Gazetteer of Scotland, on the
single ground of its presenting a careful digest of these, and of the Old
as well as the New Statistical Account of Scotland, arranged in alpha-
betical order, and of easy consultation as a book of reference. But
while the compilers have directed their principal attention to the mate-
rials now enumerated, they have not confined themselves to these, nor to
what has hitherto been generally understood to be the strict limits of a
Gazetteer. In the Topographical, Statistical, and Historical
Gazetteer of Scotland — as indeed is implied in the name itself — they
have endeavoured to concentrate a variety of details which it has not
hitherto been customary to introduce into a mere Gazetteer ; nay, they
have not hesitated, wherever they thought such matter would be likely to
interest the general reader, to introduce Legendary, Poetical, Antiqua-
rian, and Artistical notices of different localities.
It has not entered into the plan of the present Work to notice every
hamlet and name that may have a place in the local history and topogra-
phy of Scotland ; but it is hoped that no name will be found to have been
omitted in the following pages which has acquired any importance or
celebrity in the annals of the country ; while a comparison of the number
of names introduced, with those of any other Gazetteer, will satisfy any
one that it has been drawn up on a more comprehensive plan than has
ever before been attempted. An Index has also been supplied to the names
of persons and places incidentally mentioned in the course of the Work.
ADVERTISEMENT.
It is not expected, nor held out to the Public, that in a work of such
minute and multiform details, perfect accuracy has always been attained ;
a pledge for absolute correctness is not given, and were it given would
not be accepted. But it is hoped that the means which have been em-
ployed to guard against error, and above all the high character of the
chief sources of information before enumerated, have conferred a very
reasonable degree of accuracy on the present Work ; and the Publishers
will feel themselves highly favoured by any respectably authenticated infor-
mation which may enable them to increase the accuracy and consequent
utility of their Gazetteer.
The Publishers, in addition to several other spontaneous and highly
gratifying Testimonials to the general accuracy and value of their
Gazetteer of Scotland, have been honoured by the following communica-
tion from Archibald Alison, Esq., Sheriff of Lanarkshire, the well-
known Historian of the French Revolution.
" Sheriff's Office, Glasgow,
11th September, 1841.
" Gentlemen,
" I have received with much pleasure the 10th No. of your new and valuable
Statistical Work, the Gazetteer of Scotland.
" I have read all the Numbers of this Work, as they came out, with unmingled plea-
sure, and think it no more than an act of justice to say, that it is the very best work of
the kind I ever read in any language ; combining, in a degree which I never before
saw equalled, historical and romantic interest with antiquarian details and valuable
statistical information. There are few books comprising a greater variety of local, his-
torical, and valuable details ; and none which I would in preference read, as a source of
amusement or entertainment, to fill up a leisure hour.
" As I think it of the highest importance that such a Work should be as generally
known as its merit deserves, you are at liberty to make any use of this Letter which
you may deem of service for your Publication.
" I remain,
" Gentlemen,
" Your obedient and faithful Servant,
"A. ALISON."
INTRODUCTION.
INTRODUCTION.
A view of Scotland, introductory to a copious Gazetteer, must necessarily be very general.
Every natural, political, and ecclesiastical division of the country, each great cluster of
islands, every chain of heights and remarkable mountain or hill, each lake and river and
arm of the sea, every city, town, village, and conspicuous mansion, and every interesting
object, be it what it may, a landscape, an antiquity, a natural curiosity, or a work of art,
are so fully noticed in their regular places, that a general article has no scope for de-
scription, and needs not even to be studded with references. Yet such a rapid geogra-
phical outline as shall indicate the mutual relations of the parts, — some details which
refer strictly to the country as a whole, and a few particulars which, while belonging to
only some localities or to classes of objects, could not, without frequent repetition, be
inserted in the body of the work,— will form both suitable and pleasing materials for our
Introduction.
POSITION AND EXTENT.
Scotland is bounded on the north by the great North sea ; on the east by the German
ocean ; on the south-east by the liberties of Berwick, and by England ; on the south by the
Solway frith, and the Irish sea ; and on the west by the Atlantic ocean. The line of its
boundary on the south-east, from a point 31 miles north of Berwick to the head of the
Solway frith at the embouchure of the Sark, measures, inclusive of sinuosities, about 97
miles. This line has very numerous but not great windings ; and, over great part of its
length, is very capricious, and not physically marked. The curious reader may trace it
by reference to our articles on the counties of Berwick, Roxburgh, and Dumfries, whose
southern boundary-lines are identical with this. Popular language is utterly at fault in
speaking of Scotland as the part of Britain which lies north of the Tweed ; that river
running in the interior till 18 miles before it reaches the sea, and having on its left bank,
for the last 4 of these miles, the liberties of Berwick. Scotland, as to its mainland, lies
between 54° 41' and 58° 41' north latitude, and 1° 43' and 5° 38' west longitude ; and
including its islands, it extends to 60° 49' north latitude, and 8° 55' west longitude. The
greatest length of the mainland along the meridian, is from the Mull of Galloway, its
most southerly land, or south-west extremity, to Cape- Wrath, and in any possible direc-
tion, is from the same point, to Dunnet-head ; and it measures, in the former case, 274
miles, — in the latter, 280. Its breadth, from St. Abb's-head in Berwickshire to the
point of Knap in Argyleshire, is 134 miles ; from the mouth of the South Esk in Forfar-
shire to Ardnamurchan-point in Argyleshire, is 137 miles ; and from Buchanness in
Aberdeenshire to the extremity of Applecross in Ross-shire, is 146 miles. North of the
Moray frith, the greatest breadth, from Duncansby-head to Cape- Wrath, is only 70
miles ; and the least, from the Dornoch frith to Loch- Broom, is 36. The whole country
is so penetrated by friths and inlets of the sea, that it constantly and very widely varies
in breadth, and has no spot which is upwards of 40 miles inland. Owing partly to the
great irregularity of outline, both in the mainland and in the islands, and partly to the
want of accurate surveys, hardly any two statements agree as to the extent of Scotland's
area. According to a report made to the Board of Agriculture, — probably the best
authority which can be followed, — its cultivated lands amount to 5,043,450 English
acres, and those uncultivated to 13,900,550 : jointly, 18,944,000 English acres, or
29,600 square miles. Of this area, about 4,000 square miles belong to the islands ; and,
in addition to it, 638 square miles are occupied by lakes and rivers.
IV INTRODUCTION.
COAST.
From the liberties of Berwick, the coast extends along Berwickshire and part of Had-
dingtonshire, north-westward to near North Berwick : and there, over a commencing
width of 11 miles, it yields to the long westward indentation of the frith of Forth. Over
the greater part of this distance it is bold and rocky, presenting a firm rampart against
the attacks of the sea, and offering few points where even fishing-boats may approach.
On the north side of the Forth it makes an almost semicircular sweep round the most
easterly land of Fifeshire to St. Andrew's-bay ; it thence trends northward to the north-
east extremity of Fife ; and it there gives place to the indentation of the frith of Tay.
Between the Forth and the Tay, and over a considerable part of Forfarshire to the
north, it is in general low and sandy ; wearing alternately the softest and the tamest
aspects. From Buddonness, on the north side of the entrance of the Tay, all the way
along Forfarshire, Kincardineshire, and part of Aberdeenshire, to Buchanness, its direc-
tion is north-north-eastward, slightly variegated by sinuosities. Over the next 18 miles
it trends northward, and north-north-westward, to Kinnaird-head ; and between that
promontory and Duncansby-head in the extreme north-east, it recedes to the vast extent
of between 70 and 80 miles, and admits a triangular gulf or enormous bay, called the
Moray frith. On the south side of this gulf it stretches almost direct to the west, and
on the other side it extends to the north-east ; but at the inner extremity of the gulf, it
is confusedly and entirely broken by the friths of Beauly, Cromarty, and Dornoch.
From Duncansby-head, it undulates 14 miles in a prevailing direction of north-west by
west to Dunnet-head in the extreme north ; it thence stretches 4 miles south-westward
to the indentation of Thurso-bay ; and from this bay to Cape-Wrath, in the extreme
north-west, and in nearly the same longitude as the entrance of the bay, it describes,
over a distance of about 50 miles, a small segment of a circle, the curvature being inland,
but, besides having a rugged outline, is broken in three places by the inroads of respec-
tively Loch-Tongue, Loch-Eribole, and Durness-bay. Over nearly all the north it is
bold and dangerous, abutted with rocky headlands, crowned with frowning cliffs, torn into
fissures, and assailed by very generally a tumbling and chafed sea. From Cape-Wrath
to the Mull of Kintyre, a distance of about 30 miles more than from the meridian of the
liberties of Berwick to that of Duncansby-head, and comprising the whole west boundary
of the mainland, the coast, as to its general direction, diverges very little from the
straight line southward, or from a line a point or two westward of south ; but over nearly
its whole extent, it is so torn and shattered by inroads of the sea, yields to so many large
and variform indentations, and, amidst its curious and ever-recurring recesses, leaps so
mazily over the inner line of the Hebridean rocks and islets and islands, that it defies
description, and bewilders an uninitiated tourist. Its aspect here is throughout wild and
Highland, alternately picturesque, grand, sublime, and savage. At the Mull of Kintyre
the coast becomes narrowed with the continent, or rather with the long peninsula which
projects from it, and runs down to the Mull, into a point or headland ; and there, over a
commencing width of 35 or 40 miles, measured south-eastward to Ayrshire at Ballantrae,
it recedes in the large, many-bayed, and curious gulf, which forms the frith of Clyde.
From Ballantrae to the Mull of Galloway, a distance of 37 miles, it describes the segment
of an ellipsis, the curvature being toward the sea, but is broken a few miles south of
Ballantrae by the entrance of Loch- Ryan. Over this distance it is rocky, beetling, and
inhospitable, but not high, and is curiously perforated with large and numerous caverns.
From the Mull of Galloway to a point 31 miles north-east by east, it yields successively
to the large ingress of Luce-bay, the considerable one of Wigton-bay, and the smaller
of the estuary of the Dee, and comes down in the mere headlands by which these friths
are separated. After passing the estuary of the Dee, it begins to be confronted with the
coast of England ; and thence onward it is identified with the shore of the Solway frith.
HEADLANDS.
In enumerating the principal capes, promontories, and other headlands, we shall mark
in italics those which are the sites of lighthouses, and shall follow the coast-line in the
order in which we have just traced it. St. Abb's-head is in the middle of the coast-
line of Berwickshire, and forms the most projecting, bold, and conspicuous piece of sea-
INTRODUCTION. V
board between the liberties of Berwick and the frith of Forth. Fast Castle-head is 3i
miles to the north-west. Barness, Whitberry-head, and Gulane-point, are in Hadding-
tonshire,— the last on the coast of the frith of Forth. Fifeness, a low, sandy, naked
headland, is the termination of the peninsula of Fife. Buddonness, similar to the former,
and Red-head, a beetling and bold promontory, are in Forfarshire. Jodhead, Garron-
point, Finnonness, and Girdleness, are in Kincardineshire, — the last at the mouth of the :
Dee, and at the end of a range of the Grampians. Buchanness is the most easterly land
in Aberdeenshire, and even in Scotland. Rattray-point, Cairnbulg-head, and Einnaird-
head, are in the same county, — the two last at the entrance of the Moray frith. Knockie-
head is in Banffshire. Coulard-hill and Burgh-head are in Elginshire. Tarbetness,
the termination of the long narrow peninsula between the Dornoch and the Beauly friths,
belongs to Ross-shire. Ord of Caithness, Clytheness, Noss-head, Duncansby-head,
Bunnet-head, and Holborn-head, are in Caithness, — the three last looking across the
Peutland frith to the Orkney Islands. Strathey-point, Whiten-head, Far-out-head,
Cape- Wrath, and Assynt-point, are in Sutherlandshire, — the last on its west coast, and
the three first on its north. More-head, or Ru-more, is on the west coast of Cromarty.
Udrigal-head, and Rhu-Rea-head, are on the west coast of Ross-shire. Ardnamur-
chan-point, the most westerly ground on the mainland, — the Midi of Kintyre, at the
entrance of the Clyde, and of the Irish channel, — and Lamont-point and Tov:ard-point,
the southern terminations on the east and the west of the district of Cowal, on the Clyde,
— are in Argyleshire. Glougli-point, on the Clyde, is in Renfrewshire. Kirkcolm-point,
at the entrance of Loch- Ryan, — Corsewall-point, at the north-west extremity of the
Rhinns of Galloway, — and the Mull of Galloway and Burrow-head, at the southern
extremities of Scotland, — are in Wigtonshire. Ross-head, between Wigton and Kirk-
cudbright bays, — Balcarry-point, at the west side of Auchencairn-bay, — Almerness-
point, between that bay and the estuary of the Urr, — and Southerness-point, at the
extreme south-east of Galloway, — are hi Kirkcudbrightshire.
MARINE WATERS.
The German ocean, where it washes the mainland of Scotland, is closed up on the
east side by Denmark, the entrance to the Baltic, and Christiansand in Norway. The
North sea and the German ocean, where they girdle the northern and western shores,
are — as we shall afterwards see — thickly occupied by the archipelagoes of Scotland, and
both tamed in the fury of their billows, and to a considerable extent stripped of their
superincumbent vapours, by the numerous and boldly screening islands, before they reach
the main shore ; from just the same circumstance, too, or owing to currents, whirlpools,
shoals, rocks, variable winds, and intricacy of channel, among the girdlings of the islands,
or between them and the mainland, these seas are not a little difficult and dangerous of
navigation ; and, owing to the gullets and narrow sounds, which serve like funnels for the
wind between high grounds, and to the great number and magnitude and power of the
rocky or mountainous obstructions which are presented to the breeze and the tide, and to
the labyrinth of paths, and the positions of successive or alternate propulsion, vexation,
opposition, and becalming which have to be traversed by a current, the seas likewise
exhibit in the frequent storms of winter, or amidst a gale on the longest and far extend-
ing day of the hyperborean summer, scenes of awful sublimity, which would appal almost
any sensitive person except a native of the islands or of the mainland sea-board. The
Irish channel, where it washes the Mull of Kintyre, looks up the frith of Clyde, and
sweeps along the Rhinns of Galloway from Carsewell-point to the Mull of Galloway, is
curtained on its west or south-west side by the county of Antrim, the entrance of BeLast
loch, and the county of Down in Ireland, is 13 miles broad at the Mull of Kintyre, and
21 at Portpatrick, and may be viewed as having an average breadth along Wigtonshire
of 24 or 25 miles. At the point where it expands into the Irish sea, or immediately off
the Mull of Galloway, the tides, which come in one slow and majestic current across the
Atlantic, which encounter the long, vast obstruction of the island of Ireland, and which,
sweeping round the ends of that country, enter the space between Ireland and Great
Britain by the opposite inlets at the Mull of Kintyre, and at St. George 's-channel, run
against each other in a tumult of collision, and produce, even in calm weather, a tum-
bling, troughy sea, which no landsman loves to traverse. Resulting from the same
causes, the tidal currents in the adjacent parts of the Irish sea, and above all in the
VI INTRODUCTION.
Solway Frith [which see], are the most curious in the world. Some miles southward
of the Galloway coast, where the efflux is felt from both the Galloway estuaries, and the
Solway frith, or even some miles southward of the extreme land of the Mull of Gallo-
way, where the current is less powerful, a Glasgow and Liverpool steamer of the old
build might, in certain stages of the tide, have paddled away northward for a couple of
hours, and scarcely preserved herself from being swept toward the Isle of Man. The
Irish sea, where it washes Galloway, looks direct southward to the Isle of Man, and the
north coast of North Wales ; and the Solway frith, from the line 22 miles wide where
it commences between Balmae-head at the entrance of Kirkcudbright bay and St. Bees-
head in England, to the narrow point where it terminates at the mouth of the Sark, is
all the way flanked on the English side by Cumberland, and is overlooked at intervals
on its English shore by the towns of Whitehaven, Workington, Maryport, and Bowness.
The penetrations which the great encincturing marine waters of Scotland make in the
shape of gulfs, bays, friths, and what are called lochs, are so numerous that a full and
minute list of them would task a reader's powers of endurance quite as severely as the
continuous perusal of three or four pages of a pocket English dictionary. All the im-
portant, and, in any respect interesting ones too, are so fully noticed each in its appro-
priate place in the Gazetteer, that even they can bear enumeration only with the view of
indicating their mutual and relative positions. Belhaven-bay, between Dunbar and Whit-
berry-head in Haddingtonshire, though a comparatively small marine inlet, is the only
noticeable one on the east coast south of the Forth. The frith of Forth divides all Fife-
shire, a detached part of Perthshire, and part of Clackmannanshire on the north, from all
Lothian, East, Mid, and West, and part of Stirlingshire on the south ; and it makes several
interior indentations, the chief of which are Aberlady-bay in East-Lothian, Musselburgh
bay in Mid-Lothian, and Inverkeithing and Largo-bays in Fifeshire. St. Andrew's-bay,
at the mouth of the Eden, cuts Fifeshire into two peninsulse, the larger on the south,
and the smaller on the north. The frith of Tay divides Forfarshire on the north from
Fifeshire on the south, and afterwards penetrates considerably into Perthshire. Lunan-
bay makes but a small and segmentary indentation on the coast of Forfarshire, but is
attractive for its beauty, and valuable as anchoring-ground. Montrose basin is a
curious landlocked lagoon behind the town which gives it name. The Moray frith is
greatly the broadest gulf in Scotland, having part of Aberdeen, all Banff, Elgin, and
Nairn, and part of Inverness on one side, and Cromarty, Ross, Sutherland, and Caith-
ness on the other, and measuring in a line, which may be considered its mouth, from
Kinnaird's-head to Duncansby-head about 70 miles. Spey-bay makes a comparatively
short and slender incision between Banff and Elgin. Burgh-head-bay forms a notice-
able expansion between Elgin and Nairn. The Beauly frith, opening from the inner
extremity or angle of the Moray frith, penetrates, first south-westward and then west-
ward, between Nairn and Inverness on the one side, and Ross and Cromarty on the
other ; and it sends off from its south side, near the town of Inverness, the navigation of
the Caledonian canal. Cromarty frith, opening with a narrow entrance from the Moray
frith a few miles north of the mouth of the Beauly frith, describes a demi-semicircle to
the town of Dingwall, and forms the best harbour on the east coast of Great Britain,
and one of the finest in the world. The Dornoch frith extends westward between Ross
and Sutherland. Wick-bay makes a large semicircular indentation, on the east coast
of Caithness, immediately north of Noss-head. The Pentland frith — strictly a strait or
sound — intervenes between the mainland and the Orkney archipelago, forms the marine
highway, in the extreme north, to vessels going round Scotland ; and, on account of its
powerful tidal currents, and its rugged and broken coasts, is of difficult and very peril-
ous navigation. Thurso-bay broadly indents the middle of the north coast of Caithness.
Lochs Tongue, Eribole, and Durness, make sharp, considerable incisions, at rapid in-
tervals, on the north coast of Sutherland. Lochs Inchard, Laxford, Assynt, Eynard,
Broom, Little Broom, Greinord, Ewe, Gair, Torriden, Kishorn, Carron, Ling, and some
others, curiously cleave into fragments the west coast of Sutherland and Ross. The
Minch, a broad sound or little sea, intervenes between the mainland at Sutherland and
Ross, and the archipelago of the Long Island ; and the Little Minch, a much narrower
sound, intervenes between that archipelago and the group of Skye. The Kyle and the
sound of Sleat — the former a confined and winding strait, and the latter gradually ex-
pansive— separate Skye from the mainland along the coast of Inverness. Lochs Hourn,
Nevish, and Nuagh, opening off from these straits, run. eastward into the mainland.
INTRODUCTION. VU
The sound of Mull, a narrow strait, extends south-eastward between Morvern in Argyle-
shire and the island of Mull. Loch-Linnhe, a large and long sound, stretches north and
south between Lorn in Argyleshire and the island of Mull ; and is thickly sprinkled
with islands and islets belonging to the Mull group of the Hebrides. Lochs Eil, Leven,
Crinan, and Etive branch away from it, and run far into the interior, — the first leading
the way from the west to the navigation of the Caledonian canal. The sound of Jura,
extending north and south, intervenes between the district of Knapdale and the island
of Jura ; and the sound of Isla, extending in the same direction, forms a narrow stripe
between Jura and Isla. The frith of Clyde, previously to its being ramified into a
lab}Trinth of straits and sound and curiously elongated bays, rolls, in its great gulf of
waters, its little ulterior sea, between the long peninsula of Kintyre on the west and the
coast of Ayrshire on the east ; and, in its higher waters, it encloses the various parts or
islands of Buteshire, cleaves southern Argyleshire into a series of wildly Highland and
singular peninsula?, makes a considerable cleft in Dumbartonshire, and, as to its main
channel, divides the counties of Argyle and Dumbarton from those of Ayr and Renfrew.
Loch- Ryan and Luce-bay invade Wigtonshire on a line with each other, and on opposite
sides, — make such a mutual advance as to leave a comparatively narrow isthmus between
their inner extremities, — and divide the Rhinns of Galloway from the rest of Wigtonshire.
Wigton-bay makes a long inroad between the two great political divisions of Galloway.
Fleet, Kirkcudbright, and Auchencaim bays, and the estuary of the Urr, indent the
coast of Kirkcudbrightshire. The estuary of the Xith divides, for a considerable dis-
tance, the stewartry of Kirkcudbright from the country of Dumfries.
SURFACE.
Hundreds and even thousands of parishes in England so closely or exactly resemble
one another in all their features of landscape, that a sufficiently graphic description of
one might be superscribed successively with the names of all. But so wondrously diver-
sified is the surface of Scotland, that each of all its parishes, except a few, has some
broad distinctive features of its own, each of the great majority might be the subject of
a picture replete with individuality, and each of very many offers to the painter entire
groups, sometimes multitudinous clusters of scenes which are rich in the peculiarities of
their respective elements. Any general description of such a country is in the highest
degree susceptible of colouring from the bias of aversion or of favourable predilection.
Scotland has spots as lusciously lovely, or as superbly magnificent as ever poet sang,
and spots as unutterably dreary or as inhospitably sequestered as ever a dreaming or
misanthropic anchorite conceived ; and, in respect both to scenery and to climate, can
probably exhibit some actual tract of territory to justify, or at least to countenance, on
the one hand, each sneer or sarcasm which has been written against her by illiberal pre-
judice, and, on the other, each of the most impassioned panegyrics which have been
sung upon her by patriotic and enthusiastic admiration. To be fully understood, the
country must be seen or studied in minute detail : no general description of it can be
made the vehicle of very distinct ideas. Only such readers as acquaint themselves with
it through some such medium as a copious Gazetteer, can be said to comprehend it,
— examining it piece by piece in such large districts as those of counties and grand
divisions, and then looking in detail at its parishes, its principal mountains, its lakes,
its rivers, and all its various interesting objects. Whoever shall peruse the present
work, first in the great and comprehensive articles, and next, in the multitudinous briefer
articles which exhibit the individual objects, and describe the minute features of the
grand picture, must rise, we should hope, from the perusal with conceptions of the sur-
face of Scotland incomparably clearer than if he had read any conceivable amount of con-
secutive description. He will be surprised, perhaps bewildered, by the amount of va-
riety ; he will be delighted, or even thrilled, by the frequency with which scenery occurs,
ever new or peculiar, and addressing itself by turns, or in combinations, to every power
of taste, from the love of the calmly beautiful to the sturdiest and sternest capacity for
the awfully sublime ; he will wonder to discover many a fairy nook or striking lusus na-
turce in a district which probably rash satire had pronounced repulsive even to a savage ;
and when he reflects how spiritedly and copiously Wordsworth and Scott, and many
other masters of song, have written upon Scottish landscape, he will conjecture how
mighty an impulse they must have felt, and how resistlessly they were hurried along,
VU1 -INTRODUCTION.
and into what a whirl of poetic excitement they were carried, in the careering of their
descriptive poetry. But he must be aided, in this introductory article, by such a general
view of the surface of the country as, though unneeded and useless for the purposes of
description, will indicate to him the .prevailing characteristic, where there is one of each
great district, and assist him to see the mutual connexion of counties, mountain systems^
valleys, and the basins of the great rivers.
Scotland, then, as to its mainland, is naturally and very distinguishably separated
both into two and into three great divisions. The two great divisions are the Highlands
and the Lowlands, so noticed and traced in separate articles in the body of this work,
that they need not be further mentioned. The three great divisions are, the Southern,
lying south of the friths of Forth and Clyde, and of a great valley which connects them,
and now traversed by the Forth and Clyde canal,1 — the Central, lying north of this
line, and south of the Gleuniore-nan-albin, or great Glen of Caledonia, occupied by a
chain of slender lakes, and now traversed from the -Beauly frith to Loch-Linnhe by the
Caledonian caaal, — and the Northern, lying north and north-west of the •Glenmore--
nan-albin.
Though the Southern division is all comprehended in what are called the Lowlands,
and contains much champaign country, -or many of the districts which obtain in Scot-
land the name of plains, it contains yery little level, ground except in the alluvial tracts,
• — the luxuriant and the richly screened Scottish 'haughs' and 'holms,' — along the
courses of the greater rivers. Its southern extremity, comprising all Wigtonshire ex-
cept a belt on the north, is strictly neither mountainous nor lowland;- — a remarkably tu-
inulated expanse, — a sea of hillocks, very thinly crested with wood, and wearing the
changeful hues of constant hesitation between wilderness, green ^pasture, and arable cul-
tivation. Along the north of Wigtonshire, but chiefly -in the adjacent portions of Kirk-
cudbrightshire and Ayrshire, from the head of Wigton-baj7 on the east, to the sea at -Loch-
Ryan, and to the frith of 'Clyde opposite Ailsa- Craig, 'Commences a very broad and far-
stretching System of mountains which are often called the Scottish Southern Highlands,
•and whichform the. grandest feature of the southern district of the country. This sys-
tem extends in a broad phalanx of spurs and ridges cut by gorges and. glens, quite-across
the kingdom in the direction of north-east by east, to the -Cheviots on the boundary of
Roxburghshire, and there ..passeson to Northumberland. It attains its highest altitudes
about mid-distance in the country, and thence sends off huge spurs northward to the
great bend of the Clyde round Tinto, north-north-eastward to the abrupt stoop of the
Pentlaud-hills, a few miles south of Edinburgh, and north-eastward to the termination
of the Moorfoot-hills in the valeof Gala-water. From the western end up to the central
-masses, no regular ridge-can be traced ; the mountains form an elevated region unmarked
by order, and penetrated in various directions by deep long gorges and-vales. East of the
central heights, a distinctly marked but deeply serrated ridge, constituting an -uniform
water-shed, and shooting up in a continued series of summits, runs along the northern
■boundary of Dumfries-shire and Liddesdale, and afterwards bends -north-eastward and
northward along the boundary with England, to the vicinity of Yetholm. The heights,
•in a few instances, have sharp and pinnacled outlines, or .present a bare and roGky as-
.pect ; but, in general, they are soft in feature and in dress, angularities being rounded
away from side and summit, and verdure successfully struggling to maintain ascendency
over heath. On their south side they run far down in lateral ridges, and frequently
subside with -comparative suddenness, allowing the parallel narrow valleys to open boldly
and sweepingly out into a great ..plain. In their main broad line they ocoupy the north-
ern .parts of Kirkcudbrightshire and Dumfries-shire, and the southern, parts of the coun-
ties of Ayr, Lanark, Peebles, Selkirk, and Roxburgh. Their altitude, in the central
masses, averages nearly 3,000 feet above sea-level, and, in other, parts, varies from 700
or S00 feet 'to a little upwards of 2,000. The great-plain, or rather champaign country,
which lies between them and the Solway-frith, exhibits on the easta considerable expanse
of level ground, — in the centre, an agreeable variety of flats, and. gentle hilly ridges, —
and in the west, an irregularly tumulated surface. Greatly the boldest variety in this
quarter, is the ridge of the Criffel-hills, which lifts a .grand summit in the immediate
flank of the Solway, at the mouth of the estuary of the Nith, and thence runs inland in
a considerable ridge of 10 or 12 miles. The broad spurs toward Edinburgh and Gala-
water, fill all Peebles-shire and Selkirkshire ; they are quite as irregular as the great
main line, not so bold, more softly dressed, and forming over a considerable space a
INTRODUCTION. IX
"hugely undulated expanse of verdure. As they become identified with the Moorfoot-
bills in the south of Mid-Lothian, they lose much of both their greenness and their
altitude. After the intervention of the vale of the Gala, they rise suddenly up in a
broad and very moorish ridge, which takes the name of the Lammermoor-hills, occupies
the northern part of Berwickshire, and the southern part of East- Lothian, and extends
in a direction north >of east to 'the German ocean at St. Abb's-head, An irregular
triangle, formed by the east end of the main line of the Southern Highlands, and the
spurs onward to the coast of the Lammermoors, constitutes the basin of the parent-stream
and the affluents of the Tweed. This, over a large part of its extent, is identical with
the dells, and glens, and vales of the -mountain-territory ; but in the eastern and south-
ern divisions of Berwickshire, and a small part of the north-eastern division of Rox-
burghshire, .it forms the largest plain in Scotland, an expanse of very slightly undulated
ground, closely resembling many districts in England, — the luxuriant, calmly pretty,
garden-looking Merse. Intervening between the South Highlands and the friths of
Forth and Clyde, the great champaign grounds' of Lothian and Strathclyde extend from
sea to sea, the .former a hanging plain, declining to thejiorth, and picturesquely varie-
gated -with hill and rising ground, and the latter a great valley opening broadly .out from
among the glens and vales of the Highlands, stretching westward in agreeable undula-
tions, which decline on both sides to a line along the centre, and becoming pent up in
the west between the Lennox-hills and a ridge in Renfrewshire. The water-shed
between these two great champaign districts is everywhere very slightly marked, and
contains less hill, and greatly less boldness and variety, than several ridges. or congeries.
of heights in the interior of Lothian. An insulated range, vacillating in character
between hill and mountain, commences behind Greenock, at the west end of the valley
of the Clyde, and runs southward near the west coast to the hill of Knockgeorgan, 700
feet high, about 3 miles north of Ardrossan bay. Mistie-Law, near the middle of the
range, irises 1,558 feet above sea-level. From the heights north of Ardrossan, .the high
land or water-shed, makes a circular sweep to the south, with the concave side to the
west, enclosing in a sort of amphitheatre the great hanging plain of Ayrshire, frequently,
but very slightly, tumulated, containing much level ground, .and, in .its southern part,
several bold heights, and having a prevailing declination to the west. This water-shed,
afterleaving the insulated chain from Greenook to Ardrossan, is for a long way of very
inconsiderable elevation ; and where it 'forms the boundary-line between Strathclyde or
the vale of Avon, and the plain of Ayrshire, it is so low as to admit, from some points
on '.the east bank of the Clyde in the centre iof Clydesdale, .not more than .120 or 160
feet^above sea-level, a view of the heights of Arran, distant 50 miles in the frith of
Clyde:; but over its southern half it becomes identified, for some distance, with the
water-shed of the main line of the Southern Highlands, and then sweeps westward to the
sea, immediately on the left bank of the outlet of Girvan-water. The extreme north of
the southern division of Scotland, or that which forms the .middle part of the common
boundary between it and the central division, is a strath or belt of low land, stretching
along the south base of the .Lennox-hills, from the head of the estuary >of the Forth
between Grangemouth and Stirling, to a point a little above the head of the estuary of
the Clyde, between the village of East Jvilpatriok and the 'vicinity of Glasgow. This
strath is identical, at its west end, with the valley of the 'Clyde; in the chief of its
central .part, it forms a detached district ■■ of Dumbartonshire ; and in its 'west end, and
the rest'of its central part, it constitutes 'the plain of Stirlingshire. So low. and slightly
variegated is its surface, that a glance at its appearance and position brings conviction
of its-having once lain under. water, and .formed :a natural sea communication, or con-
tinuous frith, between the eastern and western marine waters' of Scotland.
The Lennox-hills, -which skirt the central division of the kingdom between the Forth
and the 'Clyde, extend from Stirling to Dumbuck, immediately above Dumbarton, in tho
direction of west-south-west. Along the north side, a moorish descent terminates, over
the western half, in a narrow and richly -variegated vale, chiefly traversed by the river
Endrick, and partly declining to Loch- Lomond, and the channel of its superfluent stream
the level, — and over the eastern half, in a flat broad belt of carse-ground, which is very
sinuously watered by "the river Forth, and which, after sweeping past a narrowed and
pent-up part at Stirling-castle, becomes identified with the plain of Stirlingshire. The
mountains beyond extend over a vast region ; occupy, with their intervening vales and
lakes, the whole of the middle and western portions of the central division of Scotland ;
X INTRODUCTION.
and press closely on the whole flank of the Glenmore-nan-albin. One of the highest
summits of the region, as well as of all Scotland, is Bennevis, 4,380 feet above sea-level,
situated on the south-east side of Loch-Eil, near the entrance of the Caledonian canal.
The boundary of the most mountainous part of the region extends south-westward from
this monarch-height to Ben-Cruachan, on the south side of Loch-Etive ; it runs thence
south-eastward to the mountains of Arroquhar on the east side of Loch-Long, one of the
most northerly branches of the frith of Clyde ; it extends thence eastward to Benlomond,
at the sources of the Forth ; it thence passes on in the direction of east-north-east to
Benledi, on the west side of the fresh-water lake Loch-Lubnaig ; it thence diverges east-
ward to the enormously-based Beniglo, in latitude 56° 50', and west longitude 3° 40'; it
runs thence due east to the lofty ridge of Lochan-nagar, nearly in latitude 57°, and west
longitude 3° ; it extends thence northward, to the water-shed between the sources of the
river Deveron and those of the Avon, an affluent of the Spey ; it thence passes on west-
ward to the northern extremity of Loch- Ness ; and it thence extends south-westward
along the flank of the whole of Glenmore-nan-albin to Bennevis. All the country com-
prehended within these boundaries, excepting Strathspey and a few deep glens, lies pro-
bably at a minimum of 1,000 feet above sea-level ; it embosoms multitudinous scenes of
grand and magnificent beauty, and of alternately savage and picturesque sublimity ; it
has many tracts which afford rich pasture, and not a few which are finely and produc-
tively feathered over with forest ; it even contains, in well-sheltered situations, spots,
small individually, but considerable in the aggregate, which are available for agriculture ;
but over by far the greater part of its extent, it either sends up wild and untameable
summits to the clouds, or is an impracticable waste and wilderness region of rocky
steeps, unproductive moors, and extensive bogs. Large tracts of continuous mountains
lie on all sides, except the north-west, immediately beyond the boundaries we have indi-
cated, and form, jointly with the great territory within these boundaries, the upland
district of the central division of Scotland ; but, though equally inhospitable, they are
much inferior in mean height, and, in general, have less boldness, angularity, and rocki-
ness of surface. The greatest range of the whole region cuts it from west to east into
not very unequal parts, forms all the way a water-shed between streams respectively on
the north and on the south, has a breadtli of from 12 to 25 miles, runs at no great dis-
tance south of the 57th parallel, and extends from Bennevis by Loch-Ericht, and along
the northern boundary of the counties of Perth and Forfar, to Mount-Caerloch in Kin-
cardineshire, 18 miles west by north of Stonehaven, and thence sends off two hilly ridges
to the coast, one terminating at Stonehaven, and the other at Girdleness. It thus
bristles up as a stupendous rampart from sea to sea, sends up many summits 3,000 feet
above sea-level, has probably a mean altitude, west of Caerloch, of 2,500 feet, measures
in length from Bennevis to Girdleness about 100 miles, and, besides carrying the great
north mail-road over the east end of its forking hilly ridges, is pierced in three places
with gorges or passes which admit the transit of military roads. Another range com-
mences in the vicinity of Loch-Lydoch, several miles from the south side of the former
range, in west longitude 4° 35' ; and runs south-westward to Bendoe, and thenie south-
ward, by the mountains of Arroquhar, along the west side of Loch- Long and the frith of
Clyde, to a soft and gentle termination at Toward-point, the eastern peninsular headland
of the district of Cowal. This range is not more than 50 miles in length, and, in Cowal,
not more than 6 in mean breadth, and considerably less than 2,000 feet in the average
height of its summits ; but, north of Arroquhar, it is from 12 to 15 miles broad, sends
up numerous summits to the height of nearly 3,000 feet, and forms a water-shed between
the streams which flow respectively to the German and the Atlantic oceans. The section
of the mountain or Highland district lying east of this range, and south of the great
central range from Bennevis to Caerloch, somewhat nearly resembles in outline the
figure of a quadrant, and contains many elevations, such as Benlomond, Benvenu, Ben-
ledi, Benvoirlich, Benlawers, and Schihallion, which rise about 3,000 ieet or upwards,
and in one instance even 4,000 feet, above sea-level. Its mountains are in some cases
isolated ; but, in general, they run in lateral spurs or offshoots eastward from the south
and north range, and more or less parallel with the great central range. These are
short in the southern part of the district, but towards the north they gradually increase
from 10 to 15 or 18, and even to upwards of 20 miles ; they enclose glens which are
deep throughout, and in part high above sea-level, which have a contracted narrowness
on the west, akin to that of profound gorges, but usually expand into vales toward the
INTRODUCTION. XI
east, and which contain aggregately large pendicles of arable land and forest, and em-
bosom a great proportion of the loveliest and far-iarned scenery of the Highlands.
Between the most northerly of these flanking screens of the glens, and the great east and
west central mountain-range, extends the vale of Rannoch, traversed along the east by
the tumultuous river Tummel, and occupied on the west by Loch- Rannoch ; and from
the west end of this lake, past the northern termination of the north and south great
range, away south-westward to the spurs of Bencruachan, extends the moor of Rannoch,
an immense level bog lying about 1,000 feet above the level of the sea, a dismal wilder-
ness occupying an area of about 400 square miles. The section of country south and
south-west of this, north of the peninsula of Knapdale and Kintyre, and west of the
north and south mountain-range, measures about 40 miles by 25, and with the exception
of the stupendous mass of Bencruachan and some attendant heights, is a series of table-
lands, elevated from 500 to 700 feet above sea-level, separated by narrow and deep glens
ploughed up by water-courses, and covered partly with heath and grass, and partly with
moorish soil and bog. The glens, though deep, are, in general, open, or expand into
vales, and in common with the banks of far-stretching bays and marine lochs, are subject
to the plough or luxuriant in wood. The long narrow peninsula of Knapdale and Kin-
tyre, extending nearly 50 miles southward, with a mean breadth of about 7 miles, rises
at its southern extremity to an altitude of about 1,000 feet above sea-level, but elsewhere
is very moderately and even gently hilly, has many interspersions of plain and valley,
and wears an arable, sheltered, and softly picturesque appearance. From the north side
of the great central range, at a point north-north-west of Beniglo, a range upwards of
30 miles in length, and about 10 or 11 in mean breadth, goes off in the direction of north
by east, to the stupendous mountain-knot of the Cairngorm heights — according to some
authorities, the loftiest in Britain — and there forks into two branches, the one extending
north-eastward, and lowering in its progress, along the right flank of the upper basin of the
Deveron, and the other, under the name of the Braes of Abernethy, running northward
between the vale of the Avon and the valley of the Spey, to the terminating and lofty
heights of Cromdale. This range, except near the north end of its divergent branches,
is unpierced by any road or practicable pass ; and, from the Cairngorm group to its
junction with the great central range, has a mean altitude of probably about 3,000 feet.
In the triangle, the two greater sides of which are formed by the Glenmore-nan-albin,
and the western moiety of the great central range, stretches north-eastward, a range 30
miles in length, and considerable in breadth, called the Monadh-Leadh mountains.
These heights commence, at their south-west end, in the Corryarrack mountains, 18
miles north-east of Bennevis : they divide in their progress into two branches, which
enclose the upper basin of the river Findhorn, and terminate nearly due south-east, from
the frith of Beauly entrance of the Caledonian canal ; and they possess an extreme alti-
tude above sea-level of not much more than 2,000 feet. The south side of the east end
of the great central range from Caerloch to Beniglo, and the ends facing the south-east
and east, of the lateral offshoots of the great range north and south, have a broad fringe
of shelving upland, which, in a general view, may be described as descending in tiers,
or as forming a declination by successive gradients to the Lowlands. This fringe — moun-
tainous on the inner side, and merely hilly in the exterior — varies in breadth from 3 to
8 miles toward the south, and from 6 to 12 miles toward the north ; it is everywhere
chequered or striped with glens and vales, bringing down the roaring and impetuous
streams cradled among the alps to the champaign country below ; it exhibits, as seen
from a distance, a magnificently varied breastwork thrown round the Highlands ; and it
encloses in its glens and vales a surpassing rich assemblage of scenery, a vast aggregate
area of picturesque and romantic forest, and not a small proportion of excellent arable
ground. Along the whole south-east side of this far-stretching and sublime and myriad-
featured declivity, from the Forth, between the vicinity of Stirling to the vicinity of
Aberfoil, to the German ocean at Stonehaven, a distance of about 80 miles, extends the
plain of Strathmore, or the Great Valley, from 1 mile to 16 miles in breadth, over the
most part from 6 to 8, and almost everywhere level, and in fine cultivation. This fine
strath sends off to the German ocean at Montrose, a short one of kindred character, and
farther north it becomes narrowed, and assumes the name of the Howe of Mearns ; and
at the point where it is crossed by the river Tay, it looks down a transverse valley
watered by that stream ; but over nearly all its length it is flanked along its south-east
side by ranges of heights which, in some places, almost vie with the Grampians along the
Xll INTRODUCTION.
north-west side, and in others wear the aspect of soft and gentle hills. The most consi-
derable range, called the Ochils, extends from a point 2 miles from the river Forth, and
about 4 miles from Stirling, in the direction of east-north-east, to the frith of Tay ; it is
24 miles in length, and has a mean breadth of about 12 miles ; and it is loftiest toward
the Forth, and attains an extreme altitude of 2,300 feet above sea-level. Another range,
called the Sidlaw-hills, is continuous of the Ochils, except for the intervention of the
valley of the Tay ; it rises abruptly up a little below Perth, in a surpassingly picturesque
height of 632 feet above sea-level, and extends to a point some miles south of Montrose,
sending up, over the earlier half of its progress, numerous summits upwards of 1,000 feet
in altitude, and afterwards forming naturally moorish terraces, which now are either
arable, or, for the most part, clothed with wood. South-eastward of the Ochils, all the
way to the German ocean, the surface is singularly rich in the calm and soft beauties of
landscape, and exhibits an interminable blending of valley, slope, and gentle hill ; its
boldest variety being an isolated table-ridge, a few miles from the Ochils, 4 miles in
length, and shooting up at the extremities into beautifully outlined summits, respectively
1,466, and 1,721 feet high. Eastward from the south end of the Sidlaws, and along the
north shore of the frith of Tay to the vicinity of Dundee, stretches the Carse of Gowrie,
a level expanse of wheat-bearing soil, unsurpassed in strength and richness. The surface
elsewhere between the Sidlaws and the sea, is partly diversified with the soft low heights
called Laws, and partly consists of sandy downs, but in general is a waving, well-culti-
vated plain. North of the great central mountain-range from Bennevis to the German
ocean, and east of the strictly Highland region, some high hilly ridges run eastward to
near the sea, and send aloft numerous summits of mountainous aspect and altitude. The
surface of the ridges and the intervening tracts, alternately pleases and tantalizes by
incessant change ; it abounds in rocky ruggedness, and steep declivities, and niggard
moorlands ; and it admits the dominion of the plough only or chiefly on the low grounds
of its glens and valleys. The country lying to the north-east, and terminating in Kin-
naird's-head, at the entrance of the Moray frith, has plains which, in some instances,
run 10 or 12 miles inland from the sea, and swell into hills, most of which are graceful
in outline, and beautifully verdant, while some are ploughed to the summit, and all, with
one exception, rise less than 600 feet above the level of the sea. The country lying
along the Moray frith to the north-east end of the Glenmore-nan-albin, has a breadth
between the Highlands and the sea of only from 12 to 18 miles ; its level ground along
the sea-board runs 9 miles inland in the vicinity of the Spey, but elsewhere is seldom
more than 2 miles broad ; its interior district is traversed seaward by lofty offshoots of
the mountain region beyond ; and its sea-board on the Beauly frith is a barren moor 10
miles by from 2 to 3, — the famous moor of Culloden. The Glenmore-nan-albin extends
north-east and south-west, in a straight line from sea to sea ; it is 60 miles in length from
Loch-Eil to the Beauly frith ; and it is principally occupied by three long stripes of
fresh-water lake, aggregately upwards of 37 miles in length.
The northern or third great division of Scotland, with the exception of two compara-
tively small portions, is all Highland. One of the low tracts consists of the peninsula;
respectively north and south of the Cromarty frith, and of a tract round the head of that
frith from 2 to about 4 miles in breadth, which unites them. The southern peninsula,
seaward from an isthmus which nowhere rises more than 50 feet above sea-level, swells
on its west side into a fiat-backed height, which, with a mean breadth of 2 miles, extends
northward to the coast. The northern peninsula, though much and roughly variegated
with high moorish grounds, and lifting up in one place a bold rampart on the coast, is
crossed by the fine Plain of Fearn, stretching from Tain to the most northerly bay of
the Cromarty frith. The other level, though somewhat variegated district, comprehends
about four-fifths of the whole of Caithness, and will be quite understood as to both its
character and its relative position, by reference to the article on that county. The
mountain region, while vast in area and multitudinous in feature, exhibits such masses
and congeries of heights, and is so undisposed in ridges or ranges, that only a longer
description than the patience of most readers could endure would serve to depict it. Its
greatest elevation extends across nearly its centre, from Ben- Wyvis on the east, to Loch-
Torridon on the west, and sends aloft its summits from a base lying at probably 1,500
feet above sea-level. On the north side of this line, or toward Cape-Wrath, the eleva-
tion decreases more than on the south, or toward the peninsula of Morvern. On its
west side occur most of those Ion"' and narrow indentations of the sea noticed in the
INTRODUCTION. XH1
sections on the coasts and the marine waters ; remarkable for rendering so desolate a
region inhabitable, and especially for their being of a class which occurs elsewhere only
on the coasts of Norway, Greenland, Iceland, and the hyperborean country around
Hudson's Bay.
RIVERS.
Most of the running waters of Scotland, owing to the prevalence of mountain, and the
frequent penetrations of the sea, have small length of course, and, even in the country
itself, are not designated rivers. Yet though very numerous, and, for the most part,
individually unimportant, they will be found distinctively noticed in the articles on
counties, and fully described in the alphabetical arrangement. We can here, without
useless repetition, only name the principal streams, and state their locality and direction
of course. South of the west end of the Southern Highlands, or in two cases in Wigton-
shire, and in the third between that county and Kirkcudbrightshire, the Luce, the
Bladenoch, and the Cree, run south-eastward to the Irish sea. South of the main range
of the Southern Highlands, the Dee, the Urr, the Nith, the Annan, and the Esk, run
southward to the Solway frith. In the large triangular district, two sides of which are
formed by the main range of the Southern Highlands, and by the long spur to St. Abb's-
head, and whose aggregate basin comprehends about 1,870 square miles, the Tweed,
aided chiefly by the affluents of the Gala, the Teviot, and the Whitadder, runs east-
ward, north-eastward, and northward, to the German ocean. The Lothians and the
plain of Stirlingshire, are drained north-eastward or northward to the frith of Forth,
principally by the Tyne, the Esk, the Leith, the Almond, the Avon, and the Carron.
Ayrshire is drained in a direction more or less westerly to the frith of Clyde, by the
Stinchar, the Girvan, the Doon, the Ayr, the Irvine, and the Garnock. The basin of
the Clyde, comprehending an area of 1,200 square miles, is drained in a direction north
of west to the head of the frith of Clyde, by its cognominal stream, whose chief affluents
are the Douglas, the Avon, the Kelvin, and the Leven. The Forth, drawing greatly
the majority of its head-waters from the central division of Scotland, fed principally by
the Teith, the Allan, and the Devon, and draining an area of 574 square miles, flows
eastward to its frith. The streams which, throughout both the central and the northern
divisions of Scotland, run westward to the Atlantic, are all individually too inconsider-
able to bear separate mention. Those which drain the district east of the Ochil-hills,
are chiefly the Leven and the Eden, — the former eastward to Largo-bay, and the latter
north-eastward to St. Andrew's-bay. A vast territory lying immediately south of the
great central range of mountains, and comprehending large portions of both the High-
lands and the Lowlands, is drained to the extent of 2,396 miles, chiefly eastward, and
partly southward, by the Tay and its tributaries, the principal of which are the Tummel,
the Isla, the Almond, and the Earn. The north-east corner of this territory is drained
eastward to the German ocean, chiefly by the South-Esk and the North-Esk. In the
district immediately north of the central mountain-range, and east of the Cairngorm
mountain-knot, the Dee and the Don run eastward to the sea at Aberdeen. In the dis-
trict lying between this and the eastern half of the Moray frith, the Deveron runs north-
ward to that frith, and the Ythan and the Ugie eastward to the German ocean. The
district enclosed by the great central mountain-range, the north-east branch of the
Cairngorm ramification, the Moray frith, and the Glenmore-nan-albin, is drained to the
extent of 1,300 square miles, north-eastward to the sea by the Spey, to the extent of 500
miles northward to the frith by the Findhorn, and to a less extent for each stream, north-
ward to the frith by the Nairn, and westward to Loch-Lochy, near the west end of the
Glenmore by the Spean. In the great northern division of Scotland, the chief streams
eastward are the Beauly to the head of the Beauly frith, the Conan to the head of the
Cromarty frith, the Oykell to the head of the Dornoch frith, the Brora, the Helmsdale,
the Berriedale, and the Wick ; and the chief streams northward are the Thurso, the
Forss, the Halladale, and the Naver. Of all the rivers, the Clyde alone is navigable by
sea-craft for any considerable distance above the estuary ; and even it possesses this
high property only in consequence of great artificial deepening and embanking, and over
a distance of but about 12 miles.
XIV INTRODUCTION.
LAKES.
The lakes of Scotland are very numerous, and, in many instances, are large, and
singularly rich in scenery. The principal, for extent or scenic attractions, are Ken,
drained by a cognominal stream, the chief affluent of the southern Dee ; Skene, 1,300
feet above sea-level, drained by a remote tributary of the Annan, forming the magnifi-
cent cataract called the Grey-Mare 's-Tail ; St. Mary's- Loch, and the Loch of the Lows,
drained by the classic Yarrow, a remote affluent of the Tweed ; Doon, drained by its
cognominal stream ; Lomond, drained by the western Leven, the tributary of the Clyde ;
Leven and G-lin, drained by the eastern Leven ; Conn and Ard, drained by the Forth ;
Katrine, Achray, Vennachoir, Voil, and Lubnaig, drained by the Teith, the chief afflu-
ent of the Forth ; Tay, Earn, Lydoch, Ericht, Rannoch, Tummel, Garry, Lows, Cluny,
and Quiech, drained by the Tay and its affluents ; Loch-Lee, drained by the North-Esk ;
Awe, Avick, Shiell, and Eck, south of the central mountain-range, and near the west
coast ; Laggan, Ouchan, and Treag, drained by the Spean ; Lochie and Archaig, drained
by the Lochie into Loch-Eil ; Oich and Garry, drained by the Ness into the Beauly
frith ; Duntalliak, drained by the Nairn ; Ruthven and Ashley, drained into Loch-Ness;
Maree, Fuir, Shallag, Fannich, Rusk, Luichart, Monar, Glas, Moir, and Slin, in Ross-
shire ; and Shin, Naver, Furan, Baden, Loval, and More, in Sutherland. The area in
square miles, of 26 of the principal, is respectively of Lomond, 45 ; Ness, 30 ; Awe, 30
Shin, 25 ; Maree, 24 ; Tay, 20 ; Archaig, 18 ; Shiell, 1G ; Lochy, 15 ; Laggan, 12
Morrer, 12 ; Fannich, 10 ; Ericht, 10 ; Naver, 9 ; Earn, 9 ; Rannoch, 8 ; Stennis, 8
Leven, 7 ; Ken, 6; Lydoch, 6 ; Fuir, 6 ; Loyal, 6 ; Katrine, 5 ; Glas, 5 ; Doon, 4i
and Luichart, 3. All are mountain or hill lakes ; and all, with very few exceptions, are
embosomed in the Highlands.
ISLANDS.
The islands of Scotland are very numerous, and, in many instances, are large and
important. The greatest archipelago, that of the Hebrides, extends along nearly the
whole west coast of the mainland. It is broadly distinguishable into two divisions, the
outer and the inner, but is capable of subdivision into live groups. Three of these press
close upon the coast, the group of Isla and Jura on the south, that of Mull in the centre,
and that of Skye on the north, — the last separated from the second by the seas which
wash the far-projecting Point of Ardnamurchan on the mainland, and the first and second
so concatenated as to admit a line of separation chiefly by their geognostic properties.
The fourth, largest, most northerly, and far-stretching group, lies quite away from the
mainland, and even from the group of Skye, separated from the northern part of the
former by the Minch, and from the western skirts of the latter by the Little-Minch. It
consists of about 140 islands and islets, about 140 miles in aggregate length, and lying
so compactly as to be popularly viewed as one, and conventionally called the Long- Island.
The fifth group is very small, lies to the far-west in profound loneliness, amidst a desert
of waters, and draws attention chiefly by the romance of its situation and character, —
consisting only of St. Kilda, itself more an islet than an island, and a tiny sprinkling on
the bosom of the sea around it of dark, coarse gems, which pendulate between the char-
acter of islets and that of mere rocks. These groups are all fully treated in the article
Hebrides. Another archipelago, that of Orkney, is separated at its south end by the
Pentland frith, G miles broad from the north coast of Caithness, or extreme north of the
mainland of Scotland. Its islands and islets lie somewhat compactly ; but are divisible into
two groups, the larger and more compact on the south, the smaller and more dispersed
on the north-east, — the two separated by a sound which bears on the east side the name
of Stronsa frith, and on the west side that of Westra frith. A full general description
of the whole will be found in the article Okkney. An islet called Stroma, lies in the
Pentland frith, 4 miles north-west of Duncansby-head. A third archipelago, that of
Shetland, lies 48 miles north-north-east from Orkney. About two-thirds of their whole
superficies are amassed in a very long island, of surpassingly irregular outline, and in
several places very nearly dissevered, called the Mainland. Yell sound, a winding strait,
separates this island on the south from the other chief island on the north, but is, in
some places, thickly strewn with islets. One small island, Fowla, lies quite away to the
INTRODUCTION. XV
west from the main group. Another, called Fair- Island, lies about half-way between
that group and the Orkneys. All the details of a general description are given in the
article Shetland. The other principal islands of Scotland are Mugdrum, in the frith of
Tay ; the Isle of May, Inchkeith, Cramond, Inchcolm, Inchgarvey, Inchmickry, Craig-
leith, Lamb, Fidra, and the Bass, in the frith of Forth, — the first and second the sites of
lighthouses ; and Arran, Bute, Great Cumbrae, Little Cumbrae, Pladda, Lady-Isle, and
Ailsa-rock, in the frith of Clyde, — Pladda and Little Cumbrae the sites of lighthouses,
and Lady- Isle the site of two beacon-towers. Of seaward rocks and sandbanks, the chief
are Car- rock, a beacon-station, 1J mile north-east of Fifeness ; Bell-rock, a dangerous
ledge bearing aloft a lighthouse, 12 miles east of Buddonness ; Marr's-bank, a shoal, 30
miles east of the Bell-rock ; Murray -bank, a sandbank 10 miles east of Montrose ; the
Long- Forties, a shoal, extending from the exterior side of Murray-bank, in a line nearly
parallel with the coast, to within 70 miles of Kinnaird-head ; Outer-Montrose-pits, a
shoal, 90 miles east of Montrose ; the Pentland-skerries, the site of a lighthouse, at the
east end of the Pentland frith ; Lappoch-rock, between Lady- Isle and Irvine harbour,
in the frith of Clyde ; and the Big and Little Scaurs, rocks at the middle of the entrance
of Luce-bay.
GEOLOGY AND MINERAL PRODUCTIONS.
Without supplying a geological map, and writing twentyfold more copiously than our
space will admit, we could not give an adequate view of the distribution of the rocks of
Scotland, and of the varieties and structure of its minerals. But from ' Malte Brun's
and Balbi's Systems of Geography Abridged : Edinburgh, Adam and Charles Black,
1840,' we shall extract a summary, which will please the scientific by its clearness, and
the popular reader by its wealth of information ; and then we shall exhibit in a brief sum-
mary the names and localities of all the rarer minerals of the country. " In a general
point of view," says the work referred to, " Scotland may be separated, geologically as
well as geographically, into three portions. By passing a line on the map nearly straight,
from Stonehaven, through Dunkeld to the middle of the Isle of Bute, and thence with a
slight curve to the Mull of Cantyre, we shall have traced the southern boundary of the
primary non-fossiliferous system of rocks. Another line, but more irregular than the
former, drawn from St. Abb's-head, passing near Peebles, Abington, Sanquhar, New
Cumnock, to about Girvan, will have a general parallelism with the former line, and will
have the older greywacke, now named the Cumbrian system, lying to the south, and
extending to the borders ; while the land included between the two lines comprehends the
old red sandstone, and great central coal basin of Scotland.
" I. Stratified Rocks. — We shall first notice the stratified systems of those three
divisions of the country, beginning with the oldest.
" That extensive tract of Scotland which constitutes the northern division, is composed
chiefly of Primary Stratified rocks, namely, gneiss, mica slate, chlorite slate, and clay
slate, with subordinate masses of hornblende slate, talc slate, and primitive limestone.
These, often with granitic centres, rise into magnificent mountains, of which the Gram-
pians form a part. In many of these deposits, particularly in the mica slate, garnets of
a brown colour are very abundant. The mountains of the Trossachs, so effectively
described by Sir Walter Scott, are chiefly composed of mica slate. In these primary
deposits no organic remains have ever been discovered. But these are not the only
stratified formations which constitute this extensive district. The old red sandstone
fringes the extremities of the land, commencing about Fochabers, on the east side of the
Murray frith ; extending on both sides of Loch-Ness within a short distance of Fort-
Augustus, and then proceeding northwards with a variable breadth through Fortrose,
Tain, Dornoch ; expanding the whole breadth of Caithness, and constituting the prin-
cipal formation of the Orkney Isles. On the western side of the mainland, the old red
sandstone is deposited in numerous patches on the gneiss formation, as at Loch-Broom,
Gairloch, and Applecross. The newer secondary rocks have been but very sparingly
observed in Scotland ; yet it is rather a curious fact, that the few patches which have
been discovered, are superimposed generally on the old red sandstone, and have not been
seen reposing in their uninterrupted order in the secondary series. Thus, the lias shales,
highly micaceous, and some of the upper beds of the Oolitic system, occur at the mouth
of the Cromarty frith, from Dunrobin-castle to the Ord of Caithness ; Applecross and
XVI INTRODUCTION.
other points on the mainland ; and in the Western Isles, on the borders of Mull, the
south and east of Skye, and near the Cock of Arraii, on a small coal deposit. The
equivalent of the fresh-water deposits of the Wealds of Sussex, geologically situate above
the oolitic group, and below the chalk, is seen near Elgin in Murray, and Loch-Staffers
in Skye. In the central and southern divisions of Scotland, those newer groups of rocks
have not been detected. In tracing the geological features of the country in the ascend-
ing order of the groups, and confining ourselves to the geographical divisions pointed out,
we nest come to the Transition or Greywacke system, now divided into two principal
sections, — the Lower or Cumbrian, and the Upper or Silurian. So far as is hitherto
ascertained, the silurian division is unknown in Scotland, but the Cumbrian rocks, nearly
destitute of organic remains, cover the principal part of the great area of the south of
Scotland. These greywacke strata stand at high angles of from 60' to 90Q from the
horizon, and consist chiefly of coarse slaty strata, seldom divisible into thin roofing slates,
and often alternating with arenaceous and coarse conglomerates. Amongst these strata
limestone is seldom found, and when it is, the quality is inferior. In the division of the
island of which we now treat, coal and its accompaniments are known in very few places.
Coal is, however, worked at Canoby, and on the borders at the Carter-Fell. The only
other rock formation found in connection with the old transition group here (with the
exception of igneous rocks), is a red sandstone, ascertained, in some situations, to be the
old red, but in some other places, considered to be the new red sandstone, particularly
in Dumfries-shire, where the surfaces of the slabs have curious impressions, supposed to
be those of the feet of a species of tortoise.
" The Old Bed Sandstone and the Carboniferous System. — In the central division is
placed the great coal basin of Scotland ; but adhering to our rule of marking the succes-
sive formations in the ascending order, we shall first treat of the Old Red Sandstone, the
most ancient rock in this subdivision of the country. This rock abuts against the line of
the primary rocks, and stretches across the whole country, from the German ocean to the
Atlantic, pursuing a south-westerly and north-easterly direction. From the northern
line of division it stretches south to the frith of Tay, bearing through Dunning near
Stirling, Dumbarton, and thence through the Western Isles, Bute and Arran, and is
wrapped nearly round the extremity of the mainland at the Mull of Cantyre. The old
red sandstone thus forms a long, uninterrupted, and extensive fertile valley. In the
north-western part it rises into hills, in the sides of one of which, Uam Vor, are deep
and hideous fissures, the effect of some convulsion. It is more irregularly distributed on
the southern boundary of the middle division, commencing on the east about Dunbar,
and stretching westerly on the line of the transition range of Moorfoot and Lammer-
moor-hills beyond Middleton, where it is interrupted by a range of trap, but is again
found in the country round Lanark. This formation appears to be of vast thickness,
especially in the northern part of the division, and may, it is supposed from recent
observation, be divided into three portions, the lower, the middle, and the upper beds.
In what is considered the lower strata, the remains of fishes have been found in a high
state of preservation, and also large scales and other remnants of a sauroid character,
such as those of the holoptj'chus. The well-known Arbroath pavement belongs to the
old red sandstone series. The most important group in the central district is the Coal
Formation, consisting of limestone, ironstone, freestone, coal, and cla}Ts. Its extent from
east to west is bounded only by the extremities of the land. To the north it is cut off
from the old red sandstone by a range of trap hills, crossing the country from east to
west. On the south it is bounded by the greywacke and old red sandstone. Its breadth
averages 40 miles, and is in length about 70. The mountain limestone forms generally
the basis of this group, though it is frequently found interstratified with other members
of the series, and abounds with countless numbers of organic remains. Below the moun-
tain limestone, however, but belonging to the same group, a bed of limestone is worked
at Burdiehouse, near Edinburgh, in which the organic remains differ essentially from
those of that just named. These remains consist of many of the plants which distinguish
the coal formation ; but it also includes the teeth, scales, and other bones of fish, which
partake of the reptile character, some of which must have been of gigantic dimensions.
Small fishes (the paleoniscus, &c.) are also found in a fine state of preservation. The
same limestone has been found in other parts of the country, and is of superior quality
to the common limestone for mortar, plaster, and the smelting of iron. The clay iron-
stone is found in beds and nodules, the workable kinds containing from 27 to 45 per cent.
INTRODUCTION- XVII
of iron. The kind termed black-band is in high request. From this ore a vast quantity
of pig-iron is smelted. The coal is found in beds, varying from a few inches to 40 feet
in thickness ; and one bed in Ayrshire is about 100 feet thick, interrupted only by thin
seams of shale from 1 to 3 inches, and is extracted in great quantity, and used as fuel
for domestic purposes,, the burning of lime, smelting of iron, working of steam-engines on
sea and land. One variety, cannel-coal, is of superior quality for the preparation of gas.
From the fire-clay are manufactured fire-brick and gas retorts ; and the sandstone fur-
nishes an inexhaustible store of substantial and beautiful material for building. These
several deposits contain in abundance the impressions of the vegetables ■which distinguish
the carboniferous period ; and what is remarkable, the remains of animals,, the same as
noted as occurring in the Burdiehouse limestone, are found in the shales, and even in
the coal itself. La this district, no strata newer than the carboniferous system is known
to exist ; all is covered over with accumulations of clays, gravels, sands, and soil.
" II. Unstratified Rocks.— Having thus noticed the direction and geographical
position of the several stratified formations of Scotland, we now come to treat briefly of
the Unstratified System ; and in order to bring this department? more clearly to the appre-
hension of the general reader, we must remark, that the unstratified rocks are of igneous
origin — they were, in fact, melted volcanic matter, which had burst through the strati-
fied deposits, which were thus elevated into mountain-ranges ; the strata being at the
same time raised on edge to various angles with the horizon. This being the case, we
consequently find that the unstratified follow the same course with the stratified moun-
tains, since the former were the elevating cause of the latter.. Now granite, an igneous
rock, is more generally found connected with the primary non-fossiliferous, than with the
succeeding formations, forming centres in gneiss and mica slate, and rising above them
in magnificent pinnacles ; it is therefore in the primary region that granitic mountains
may be expected to predominate ; of this we find an instance in the Grampian chain
which stretches in a north-east and south-west direction, intersecting the country. The
granite is most largely developed on the north-east side of. the country ; it there com-
mences about the parallel of Stonehaven, extends northward to Peterhead and Banff ;
and,, in a westerly direction, along the courses of the Dee and the Bon ; and still con-
tinues along the banks of the Tilt, Loch-Bricht, Loch-Lydoch, and terminates in this
line near Oban and Fort- William ; from the latter rises Ben-Nevis, composed of granitic
sienite. But this is not the only range. Another may be traced commencing in the
north between Thurso and Portskerry, which passes along, at irregular distances, near
Loch-Baden, the neighbourhood of Dornoch, Loch-Oieh, on the line of Loch-Ness, and
terminates in a lofty mountain at the head of Loch-Sunart, on the west coast. Granite
is found in several of. the Western Isles, as in Rum,, and is magnificently displayed in
the Isle of Arran ;— Goatfell and the surrounding peaks are of granite. The granitic
summits of these mountains form the highest land in Britain. Ben-Nevis is 4,.373 feet
above the level of the sea, and Ben-Macdui rises about 17 feet higher. Though the
granitic formation covers a greater area, and rises to a greater altitude in the north than
in the south of. Scotland, yet the latter is not deficient in this interesting, rock. It rises
through the older greywacke (the Cumbrian system) in Duinfries-shire ; occupies a
great space in. New Galloway and in Kirkcudbright ; and near Kirkmaiden, in the form
of dykes.. In some of those mountains, stones fit for the purposes of the jeweller have
been found. The mountain Cairngorm, in Inverness-shire, has long been celebrated for
its rock crystal, of. a snioke-brown colour, and named Cairngorm from its locality, which,
when cut by the lapidary, is highly esteemed for its colour and brilliancy, and is employed
for seals, brooches,, and other ornamental purposes. Topazes of a light blue colour,
and sometimes of very large size, have occasionally been found on the same mountain,
and also beryl (aqua marine), more rarely. Unstratified rocks of every other kind also
prevail in Scotland ; including all the varieties of Trap (commonly named whinstone),
basalt, greenstone, compact feltspar, pitchstone, porphyries, and amygdaloids, which in
many parts- display ranges of symmetrical columns, sometimes- of great extent~as at
Arthur-Seat near Edinburgh, in several parts of the coast of Fife, in the islands of Bigg,
Arran, Lamlash, and in the incomparable Staffa. But we shall attend to the distribution
of these rocks throughout the country. They are connected with the older greywacke and
red sandstones of the south of Scotland. Trap forms a great part of the Cheviots on the
borders, and passes northwards into the districts of Dunse, Coldstream, Kelso, Melrose,
Selkirk, and Roxburghshire, rising into beautiful dome-shaped hills. Hounam-Law, the.
i, b
XVM INTRODUCTION.
Eildons, and Ruberslaw (the last, near 1,500 feet high), maj be cited as examples.
But in the great central valley of Scotland, beginning at Montrose on the east coast,
trap hills appear in patches in the old red sandstone, passing in an irregular line to the
frith of Tay, from the south-eastern extremity of which they proceed in a south-westerly
course, without interruption, but varying greatly in breadth, through Dunning, Kinross,
and Stirling, to Dumbarton. Another line, but less continuous, commences about
Cupar, near St. Andrews, along the coasts of Fifeshire, and appears in groups about
Linlithgow, Bathgate, near Glasgow, onwards to Paisley, and thence to Greenock, where
it is greatly expanded, and turns north to the banks of the Clyde, nearly opposite the
Dumbarton range. A third parallel range, also in interrupted masses, commences at
Dunbar, is continued in the Pentlands, Tintoc, and other hills in Lanarkshire,- and in
Ayrshire, about Kilmarnock, Ayr, and New Cumnock. In Galloway, trap is in some
parts greatly expanded. A few of those localities may be mentioned, as we are not
aware that any public notice has yet been given of its existence in those parts. A dyke
of greenstone occurs near Kirkcolmpoint in greywacke, at the western extremity of Loch-
Ryan ; Cairn-Pat, between Stranraer and Port- Patrick, is also greenstone ; and thence,
the greywacke of the whole coast to the Mull of Galloway is intersected by dykes and
hills of several varieties of trap. On the northern side of Loch- Ryan, it is seen involved
amongst the roofing slates of the Cairn ; and a range of trap hills extends thence, rising
through the greywacke, flanking the edge of the loch, taking a south-easterly direction,
passing by Castle- Kennedy to the north, and onwards to New- Luce. Here it expands
to an enormous extent in every direction ; to the south it approaches Glenluce-bay. At
Knocky-bay, a short distance north of New- Luce, a lead mine was at one time worked,
but becoming unproductive, was abandoned. It may, however, be observed, that the
greatest development of trap is in the great central coal district, where it has fractured
the strata, and raised the edges of the coal seams to the surface, an important natural
operation, by which coal and its other useful accompaniments, ironstone, limestone, and
building materials, have been made known and accessible. In the trap rocks of Scot-
land many interesting minerals are found. The far-famed Scotch agate or pebble,
abounds in nodules included in trap, near Montrose, Perth, and other places ; and many
of the most beautiful of the zeolites are found among the hills around Dumbarton, the
opposite side of the Clyde, and in many other localities.
" The coal-fields constitute the principal mineral treasures of Scotland. The great
coal district extends across the island from the eastern corner, or, as the district is termed
in Lowland Scotch, the ' East Neuk ' of Fife, to the mouth of the Clyde in Dumbarton-
shire on the west, and into East-Lothian on the east. It is not, however, continuous
throughout the whole distance, but consists rather of a succession of large detached coal-
fields. Its superficial extent has been estimated at nearly 1,000 square miles ; and it
has also been calculated that, according to the present consumption, it may be worked
with advantage during 3,000 years. The Fife coal-field, north of the Forth, extends
from Stirling to St. Andrews, and is in some places 10 miles broad. The richest portion
of it lies between Dysart and Alloa. The Lothian coal-field, on the south and east of
Edinburgh, is about 25 miles in length, with a breadth of five or six, and covers an area
of 80 square miles. To the westward of Edinburgh there is no coal for several miles ;
but at Bathgate, workable beds are found, which extend westward, with some interrup-
tions, to the neighbourhood of Glasgow, forming the great coal-field of Lanarkshire.
The Clyde and the Forth form the boundaries of this field ; but beyond Blantyre, the
coal extends on the south side of the Clyde to the Cathkin-hills. After passing Glasgow,
the coal-field stretches westward from the south bank of the Clyde, and occupies the
valley in the line of the Ardrossan canal, extending through Renfrewshire to Dairy in
Ayrshire ; the most southerly point being at Girvan. Several small fields occur at dif-
ferent parts of the south of Scotland, particularly at Sanquhar, in Dumfries-shire, and
Canoby; in the same county, on the borders of England. Coal is found also at Brora in
Sutherlandshire, and Campbelton in Cantyref but in insignificant quantities. Besides
the fossil fuel yielded by the coal-fields, ironstone of excellent quality abounds in many
of them ; and is smelted to a great amount, and manufactured into articles suited for
every useful purpose, at the great works of Carron, Shotts, Cleland, Airdrie, Clyde,
Wilsontown, Muirkirk, Glenbuck, and some other places. It is the abundance and
cheapness of coal in its vicinity that has enabled Glasgow to rival Manchester as a manu-
facturing emporium. Next to coal and ironstone, the most valuable mineral product of
INTRODUCTION. XIX
Scotland is lead, of which there are rich mines at Leadhills and Wanlockhead, in the
Lowther-hills, on the borders of Lanarkshire and Dumfries-shire. Lead is also procured
at Dollar in Clackmannanshire, Strontian in Argyleshire, Belleville in Inverness-shire,
and Leadlaw in Peebles-shire. A considerable quantity of silver is extracted from the
lead. Particles of gold have frequently been found in the small streams among the
Lowther-hills, and also immediately under the vegetable soil which covers the surface of
the latter. Scotland abounds in quarries of the finest building materials, particularly
sandstone, — hence the beauty of the numerous public edifices which adorn its cities and
towns. The principal sandstone quarries are Craigleith, a little to the west of Edin-
burgh ; Binnie, near Uphall, Linlithgowshire ; Humbie, near South Queensferry, also
in Linlithgowshire ; Giffneugh, near Glasgow, Lanarkshire ; Longannet, near Kincardine,
Perthshire ; and Milnefield or Kingoodie, near Longforgan, Perthshire. Roofing-slates,
only inferior to those procured in Wales, are quarried extensively at Ballachulish, and
in the island of Easdale, both in Argyleshire. Granite is brought from Aberdeen to
pave the streets of London ; and the granite of Kirkcudbright has been partly used in
the construction of the Liverpool docks. Variegated or veined marble, of a beautiful
appearance, is found in Sutherlandshire, at Glentilt in Perthshire, at Tyree in Argyle-
shire, at Muriston in West- Lothian, and in other places."
Octohedral alum occurs at Hurlet near Paisley, at Creetown in Galloway, and in the
vicinity of Moffat ; rock-butter, at Hurlet ; compact gypsum, in the Campsie-hills ;
fibrous gypsum, in Dumbartonshire, in the vicinity of Moft'at, and on the banks of the
Whitadder ; foliated fiuor, in various situations, but rarely, though abundant in Eng-
land ; conch oidal apatite, or asparagus stone, near Kincardine, in Ross-shire, and in
the Shetland isles ; common arragonite, or prismatic limestone, in the lead mines of
Leadhills, and in secondary trap-rocks, in various situations ; fibrous calc-cinter, the
alabaster of the ancients, in Macallister's-cave in Skye ; slate-spar, imbedded in marble
in Glen-Tilt, and in Assynt ; common compact lucullite, or black marble, forms hills in
Assynt ; stinkstone, or swinestone, occurs in Kirkbean, and the vicinity of North-Ber-
wick ; white domolite occurs in beds containing tremolite, in Iona ; brachytypous lime-
stone, or rhomb-spar, near Newton- Stewart, and on the banks of Loch-Lomond ; foliated
brown-spar, in the lead mines of Leadhills and Wanlockhead ; columnar brown-spar, on
the banks of Loch- Lomond, and near Newton- Stewart ; prismatic, or electric calamine,
at Wanlockhead ; pyramido-prismatic baryte, or stroutianite, at Strontian in Argyle-
shire ; foliated prismatoidal baryte, or celestine, at Inverness, and in the Calton-hill of
Edinburgh ; white lead-spar, and black lead-spar, at Leadhills ; indurated, friable, and
green earthy lead-spars, prismatic lead-spar, or sulphate of lead, and radiated prismatic
blue malachite, or blue copper, at Leadhills and Wanlockhead ; — fibrous common mala-
chite, at Sandlodge, in the mainland of Shetland ;— radiated cobalt-mica, or cobalt-
bloom, at Alva in Stirlingshire, and in the limestone of the coal measures in Linlith-
gowshire ; earthy blue iron, on the surface of peat-mosses in Shetland ; scaly graphite,
in Strath-Beauly in Inverness-shire, and in the coal formation near Cumnock ; foliated
chlorite, in Jura ; earthy chlorite, along with common chlorite, at Forneth-cottage in
Perthshire ; other chlorites, variously, and in abundance ; common talc, in Perthshire,
Aberdeenshire, and Banffshire ; indurated talc, or talc-slate, in Perthshire, Banffshire,
and Shetland ; steatite, or soapstone, in the limestone of Iona, and the trap-rocks of the
Lothians, Arran, Skye, and some other places ; — diatomous schiller-spar, in the serpen-
tine of Fetlar, and Unst in Shetland, and of Portsoy in Banffshire, in the greenstone of
Fifeshire, in the porphyritic rock of Calton-hill, and in the trap of Craig- Lochart, near
Edinburgh ; hemiprismatic schiller-spar, or bronzite, in Skye, and near Dimnadrochit
in Inverness-shire : prismatoidal schiller-spar, or hypersthene, in Skye and Banffshire ;
kyanite, in primitive rocks at Boharm in Banffshire, and near Banchory in Aberdeen-
shire, and in mica-slate near Sandlodge in the mainland of Shetland ; fibrous prehnite,
in veins and cavities in the trap of Castle-rock, Salisbury-Crag, and Arthur-Seat, Edin-
burgh, of Bishopton and Hartfield in Renfrewshire, of Cockney-burn and Loch-Hum-
phrey in Dumbartonshire, of the vicinity of Beith in Ayrshire, and of Berwickshire,
Mull, and Raasay ; rhomboidal zeolite, or chabasite, in crystals in the vesicular cavities of
the Mull and Skye trap ; mealy zeolite, or mesotype, near Tantallan-castle in Hadding-
tonshire, and in Mull, Skye^ and Canna ; pyramidal zeolite, or apophyllite, in the frap-
rocks of Skye ; some other species of zeolite, variously, and in abundance ; adularia, a
rare sub-species of prismatic felspar, in the granite of Arran ; compact felspar, a more
XX INTRODUCTION.
common sub-species, in the Pentland and the Ochil hills, in Tinto, and in Papa- Stour in
Shetland ; other sub-species of prismatic felspar, in numerous localities ; sahlite, a sub-
species of pyramido-prismatic augite, in Unst, Tiree, Harris, Glentilt, Glenelg, and
Rannoch ; asbestous tremolite, in Glentilt, Glenelg, Iona, Shetland, and other places ;
common tremolite, in Glentilt, Glenelg, and Shetland ; rock-cork, a kind of asbestos, in
veins in the serpentine of Portsoy, and in the red sandstone of Kincardineshire, in small
quantities at Kildrummie in Aberdeenshire, and in plates in the lead veins of Leadhills
and Wanlockhead ; flexible asbestos, or amianthus, in the serpentine of Portsoy, Lewis,
and Harris, of Mainland, Unst and Fetlar in Shetland, and in some other places ; rigid
or common asbestos, in the serpentine of Shetland, Long-Island, and Portsoy ; epidote,
or pistacite, in the syenite of Arran and the Shetland mainland, in the gneiss of Suther-
land, in the trap of Mull and Skye, in the quartz of Iona and Rona, and in the por-
phyry of Glencoe, and other districts ; common zoisite, in Shetland, Glenelg, and the
banks of Loch-Lomond ; common andalusite, in the primitive rocks of Aberdeenshire,
Banffshire, and Shetland ; — saussurite, between Ballantrae and Girvan ; common topaz,
in an alluvium in the granite and gneiss districts of Mar and Cairngorm ; schorloua
topaz, or schorlite, in Mar ; beryl, along with topaz and rock-crystal, in an alluvium
among the Cairngorm range ; common amethyst, in greenstone and amygdaloid, in many
localities ; rock or mountain crystal — a variety of which is the Scottish Cairngorm stone
— in the alluvium of the Cairngorm district, in druse cavities in the granite of Arran,
and in various other geognostic and topographical positions ; rose or milk quartz, in the
primitive rocks of various districts ; conchoidal hornstone, in the Pentland-hills ; com-
mon calcedony, in most of the trap districts ; carnelian, in most of the secondary trap
districts, solitarily, or in agate ; striped jasper, in the clay porphyry of the Pentland-
hills ; porcelain jasper, among pseudo-volcanic rocks in Fifeshire ; agate jasper, in the
agates of central Scotland ; precious and common garnet, variously in primitive rocks ;
prismatic garnet, or cinnamon-stone, in gneiss near Kincardine in Ross-shire ; prisma-
toidal garnet, or grenatite, in Aberdeenshire and Shetland ; common zircon and hyacinth,
in Galloway, Inverness-shire, Sutherland, Shetland, and other districts ; — common
sphene, or prismatic titanium-ore, in the syenite of Inverary and of Criffel, and other
Galloway-hills, and in some other parts of Scotland ; rutile, or prismato-pyramidal
titanium-ore, in the granite of Cairngorm, and the quartz of Killin and Beniglo ; pris-
matic wolfram, in the island of Rona ; iron sand or granular magnetic iron-ore, in the
trap-rocks of various districts ; micaceous specular iron-ore, at Fitful-head in Shetland,
in clay-slate near Dunkeld, and in the mica-slate of Benmore ; red hematite, or fibrous
red iron-ore, in veins in the secondary greenstone of Salisbury-Crags, and in the sand-
stone of Cumber-head in Lanarkshire ; columnar red clay iron-ore, among other pseudo-
volcanic productions in Fifeshire ; pea-ore, or pisiform brown-clay iron-ore, in the secon-
dary rocks of Galston ; bog iron-ore, in various parts of the Highlands and Islands ;
scaly brown manganese-ore, near Sandlodge in Shetland ; grey manganese-ore, near
Aberdeen ; — octahedral copper, in the serpentine of Yell, and the sandstone of Mainland
in Shetland ; — prismatic nickel pyrites, or copper-nickel, at Leadhills and Wanlockhead,
and in the coal-field of Linlithgowshire ; nickel ochre, in the same localities as the last,
and at Alva ; prismatic arsenic pyrites, at Alva ; magnetic, or rhomboidal iron pyrites,
in Criffel, Windyshoulder, and other Galloway hills ; yellow, or pyramidal copper pyrites,
near Tyndrum in Perthshire, and in the Mainland of Shetland ; — grey copper, or tetra-
hedral copper-glance, at Sandlodge in Shetland, at Airth in Stirlingshire, at Fassney-
burn in Haddingtonshire, and in the vicinity of Girvan ; vitreous copper, or prismatic
copper-glance, in Ayrshire, at Fassney-burn, and in Fair Isle ; rhomboidal molybdena,
in granite and syenite at Peterhead, in chlorite-slate in Glenelg, and in granite at the
head of Loch-Creran ; molybdena ochre, along with the last, at the head of Loch-Creran ;
grey antimony* or prismatoidal antimony-glance, in greywacke at Jamestown in Dum-
fries-shire, and among primitive rocks, accompanied by green fiuor in Banffshire ;—
yellow zinc-blende, at Clifton near Tyndrum ; brown zinc-blende, at Clifton, and in
small veins with galena, in the Mid- Lothian coal-field ; — amber, or yellow mineral resin,
on the sea-beach ; petroleum, or mineral oil, at St. Catherine's well in the parish of
Liberton, and in Orkney ; asphaltum, or slaggy mineral pitch, in secondary lime-
stone in Fifeshire, and in clay ironstone in Haddingtonshire ;• — indurated lithomarge,
in nidular portions, occasionally in secondary trap and porphyry rocks ; mountain
soap, in secondary trap in Skye ; chiastolite, in clay-slate near Balahulish in Argyle-
INTRODUCTION. XXI
sliire ; iserine, in the sand of the Don and the Dee ; pinite, in porphyry in Beniglo, and
near Inverary.
CLIMATE.
The climate of the Hebrides, of the Orkneys, and of Shetland, has, in the case of
each, some marked peculiarities, which are noticed in the articles devoted to their
description. Even that of the mainland, owing to the bold and singularly varied contour
of the country, is so singularly various, as to offer matter for distinctive remark in
notices of most counties, and even of not a few parishes. In a general view, the heat,
in consequence of the country's insularity, and of its frequent and long indentations by
the sea, is much higher in winter, and more moderate in summer, than in the same lati-
tudes on the continent. The temperature, except in moorlands in the interior, and the
more mountainous districts, seldom remains long at the freezing-point ; nor, in any part
of the country, does it often rise to what is called Indian heat, or to an intensity which
incommodes the labour of the field. The extremes, so far as they have been observed,
are 92° of Fahrenheit, and 3° below zero ; but, in the case of both, are rarely and very
briefly approached. The ordinary greatest range of the thermometer is between 84° and
8°. The mean annual temperature for the whole country is from 45° to 47° ; and at the
lowest is 41° 11 , — at the highest 50° 32. Nor does the average descend as the observer
moves northward, or to the vicinity, or into the interior of the Highlands ; for the mean
temperature of Dumfries, deduced from the observation of 9 years, is 42° 327 ; that of
Glasgow, as determined by Professor Thomson, is 47° 75 ; that of Edinburgh, as deter-
mined by Professor Playfair, is 47° 7 ; that of St. Andrews, deduced from the observa-
tion of 8 years, 48° 01 ; that of Perth, deduced from the observation of 9 years, is
48° 131 ; that of Aberdeen, deduced from the observation of 10 years, 47° 648 ; and
that of Inverness, deduced from the observation of 13 years, 48° 09. The range of the
barometer is often both great and rapid, and averages throughout the mainland, 2'82
inches, or from 36'92 to 28'10. Snow is less copious, though probably more frequent,
in its falls than in the south of England ; and rain, on the average, is less than in the
west of England. The joint quantity of the two has an annual mean amount for tho
kingdom of from 30 to 31 inches, but differs widely on the east and on the west coast,
— varying, on the former, from 22 to 26 inches, and, on the latter, from 35 to 46 inches.
At Dumfries, the mean annual quantity, as deduced from the observation of 7 years, is
33'54 inches ; at Glasgow, from the observation of 31 years, 224 inches ; at Perth, from
the observation of 9 years, 23'01 inches ; at Aberdeen, from the observation of 4 years,
27'37 inches ; and at Inverness, from the observation of 7 years, 26'21. The average
number of days in the year on which rain or snow ialls, is variously stated to be, on the
east coast, 135 and about 145, and on the west coast, 205 and 200. The least humid
district in the Lowlands, is East- Lothian ; and the most humid, Ayrshire. Thick fogs,
and small drizzly rains, visit the whole country, chiefly in spring and autumn, and
during the prevalence of easterly winds ; and, in many localities, the fogs lie along a
champaign country like seas of fleecy vapour, with the hills and loftier uplands appear-
ing like islands on their bosom. Snow, except in the milder districts of the Lowlands,
generally begins to fall about the middle of November, and seldom ceases its periodical
visits till March or April. The winds are to a high degree variable, both in force and
direction ; and, in the Highlands and Southern Highlands, produce not a few curious
phenomena in connexion with the peculiar configuration of localities. They often rise
to gale and storm, and in some places even to tempest ; and, about the period of the
equinoxes, are more violent than in England. Those from the west are, in autumn and
the early part of winter, the most prevalent, and, in general, they are the highest ; and
those from the north-east prevail from the beginning of March till May or June, and are
often keen and severe. At St. Andrews, the winds are westerly, except in the spring
and early summer months, when those which are easterly prevail ; at Perth, during 9
years ending with 1833, the winds were from the west and north-west, on 1,197 days,
from the east and south-east, on 996, from the south and south-west, on 957, and from
the north and north-east, on 137 ; and at Inverness, as the result of 13,800 observations,
made during 21 years preceding 1825, the proportions of the winds in parts of 1,000, were
westerly and south-westerly, 478, easterly and north-easterly, 237, northerly and north-
westerly, 205, and southerly and south-easterly, 80. These instances, however, indicate
XXU INTRODUCTION.
in but a general way the comparative prevalence of the different winds throughout Scot-
land, and afford no hides whatever to it in peculiar localities. On the whole, the cli-
mate of Scotland, as compared with that of England, is cold, wet, and cloudy, occasions
lateness in harvest to the average amount of at least three weeks, and prevents the
remunerative cultivation of hops, and several other valuable vegetables, yet over by far
the greater part of the area of the country is to the full as healthy.
SOILS AND VEGETABLE PRODUCE.
The soils of Scotland, as might be expected from the peculiarities of its surface and
geology, are often very various in even a single field, and much more in extensive dis-
tricts. Yet they have, in many instances of both the excellent and the inferior, long and
broad expanses of uniformity ; and, while in aggregate character poorer than those of
England, they vie in their rich tracts with the wealthiest in the three kingdoms, and
have prompted and tutored, over their penurious tracts, a keenness of georgic skill, and
a sturdiness in the arts of husbandry, which have made Scottish farmers the boast of
Europe. The carses of Stirling, Falkirk, and Gowrie, most of the three Lothians ; the
Merse, Clydesdale, and Strathearn, large portions of Fifeshire, Strathmore, Annan-
dale, Nithsdale, Kyle, Cunningham, and of the low grounds along the Moray and the
Cromarty friths, and even some straths and very numerous haughs in the mountainous
districts, are highly productive, and can bear comparison with the best tracts of land in
England. According to Sir John Sinclair's digest of the productive soils, or of those on
lands fully or partially cultivated, the loams amount to 1,869,193 English acres, the rich
clays to 987,070, the gravelly soils to 681,862, the cold or inferior clays to 510,265, the
improved mossy soils to 411,096, the alluvial haugh or carse land to 320,193, and the
sandy soils to 263,771, — in all, as we stated at the outset, 5,043,450 English acres.
According to the same authority, the extent of plantations and of natural woods which
existed at the date of the digest, on lands not included in this classification, was, of the
former, 412,226 English acres, of the latter, 501,469,— jointly, 913,695. Plantations,
since that period, have been raised to a vast aggregate amount on the waste lands, and
disposed in innumerable tiny forests, clumps, belts, and rows, among the cultivated
grounds. Pines are the most common trees ; but, in later plantations, the hard woods,
in many instances, prevail. Though agriculture has, in most districts, attained bold
approaches to perfection, the crops, in the aggregate, are inferior in quality to those of
England, and considerably more exposed to risk. Grain of the same weight, raised on
Scottish and on English soils, differs in the proportion of the most valued elements ; and
fruit, according to its species, is richer now in Scotland and now in England, and of the
same species widely varies as raised in the two ends of the island. A fair view of Scot-
tish agriculture in its palmiest state, may be obtained by perusal of the agricultural
section of our article on Haddingtonshire. The grand characteristics of the aggregate
agriculture of the country are, in the words of M'Culloch, " 1st, The nearly universal
prevalence of leases of a reasonable endurance, and containing regulations as to manage-
ment, which, while they do not improperly shackle the tenant, prevent the land from
being exhausted previously to the termination of the lease ; 2d, The absence of tithes,
and in most cases, also, of poor-rates, and of all oppressive public burdens ; 3d, The
prevention of assignment and sub-letting by tenants, and the descent of the lease to the
heir-at-law ; and 4th, The general introduction of thrashing-machines, and the universal
use of the two-horse plough and one-horse cart." The dairy commands attention prin-
cipally in the counties of Ayr, Renfrew, and Dumfries. The annual produce of wheat
is estimated in value at £1,650,000, or 660,000 quarters at 50s. per quarter ; of barley,
at £1,470,000, or 980,000 quarters at 30s. per quarter; of oats, at £7,171,875, or
5,737,000 quarters at 25s. per quarter ; of potatoes and turnips, at £2,250,000 ; of flax,
at £128,000 ; of garden and orchard produce, at £416,000 ; or the total of agricultural
and horticultural produce, exclusive of pulse and the grasses, at £13,355,875. Pasture
on arable lands is averaged at £2 per acre, and estimated in aggregate value at
£4,979,450 ; and upland pasture, together with plantations and waste lands, is averaged
at 3s. per acre, and estimated in aggregate value at £2,100,000. According to these
estimates — which we borrow from Malte Brun and Balbi Abridged, as the most recent
and a very intelligent publication — the total annual value of the land produce of Scotland
amounts to £20,435,325. The gross rental of land, in 1811, was £4,792,243.
INTRODUCTION.
XXlll
It has been estimated by the late Sir John Sinclair, and his calculations were con-
finned by many of the parochial clergy, that the rental of estates in Scotland increased
at least from two to three fold, from the year 1660 to the year 1750. This increased
rental doubled previous to 1770, and in the next twenty years it again doubled. The
rental had thus increased from eight to ten fold in one hundred and thirty years ; and
again, from 1791 to 1841, it had increased two-and-a-half times on the average of ninety-
nine parishes taken indiscriminately to illustrate this increase, and of which a list is
subjoined ; and as Scotland contains only 919 parishes, it may be taken to have been
general. The land- rental of parishes in Scotland, it would thus appear, has increased
since the Restoration, in 1660, twenty to thirty fold ; or about two thousand per cent. !
County,
Aberdeen,
Ayr,.
Banff,
Berwick,
Real Real
Pariah. Rental in Rental in
1791-6. 1832-40.
fKineller, £900 £3,000
Dyce, 350 1,140
I Udney, 2,000 7,000
<j New Deer, 3,000 8,940
St. Fergus, 2,838 5,720
Lonmay, 1,465 5,393
King Edward, 2,285 5,770
Ochiltree, 3,000 8,176
Ardrossan, 2,970 7,800
Dairy, 6,350 17,712
Dalrymple, 1,570 5,192
Dunlop, 3,000 7,864
Monkton and Prest-
wick...... 2,000 4,509
•jMaybole, 346 2,400
West Kilbride, 2,528 9,662
Straiton, 3,000 9,000
Girvan, 3,200 12,000
Dumfries, ...
Edinburgh, .
Elgin,
Fife,
Ballantrae, 2,000
Stevenston, 1,170
Old Cumnock, 3,000
Kirkmichael, 2,500
Inveraven, 2,294
Swinton and Simprin, 4,030
Merton, 2,400
Eccles, 11,000 20,000
Longformacus, 1,700 4,000
Buncle and Preston
Ellim, 3,200
Whitsome and Hilton, 3,0t0
Coldstream, 6,000
Nenthorn, 2,040
Polwartb, 1,000
Chirnside 2,500
Edrom, 6,493 15,200
Cockburnspath and Old
Cambus, 4,500
Wamphray, 1,900
Applegarth and Sib-
baldine, 2,500
Tundergarth, 1,800
St. Mungo, 1,800
Ruthwell, 1,600
Cummertrees, 2,800
Dornoek, 1,700
Kirkpatrick-Fleming, . 2,870
Hoddam, 2,668
Glencairn, 8,500 11,175
Holywood, 3,000 7,436
Libberton, 10,000 28,000
, Knockando, 2,000 3,000
}Alves 3,000 6,000
Scoonie, 2,000 6,500
7,465
3,836
8,000
9,330
5,055
8,000
6,000
8,000
7,526
12,000
4,100
1,730
8,504
8,000
4,000
6,680
3,000
4,000
4,527
8,000
3,300
7,369
7,000
County
Fife,
Parish.
Real
Rental in
1791-6.
Forfar, .
Denino, £1,157
fLochlee, 385
Craig, 4,000
Hadding-
ton,
Kincardine,
Lanark,
Peebles, ...
Perth,
Renfrev
Roxburgh,
Logie-Pert, 1,800
Glammis, 3,000
Carmylie, 1,000
'Prestonkirk, 4,700
Dunbar, 8,000
Humbie, 2,700
■j Yester, 2,000
Dirleton, 6,000
Innerwick, 4,000
Bolton, 1,400
"Garvock, 1,000
Fordoun, 3,500
Laurencekirk, 2,000
Glenbervie, 1,000
"Bothwell, 5,500
Carstairs, 2,000
Blantyre, 1,400
Culter, 1,600
Cadder, 6,000
Cambuslang, 2,850
Crawford-John, 2,500
Dolphinston, 600
"Peebles 3,000
Innerleithen, 3,000
Manner, 1,685
Kirkurd, 850
Newlands, 2,500
Linton, 2,350
'Methven, 3,000
Meigle, 2,100
Rhynd, 1,600
Errol, 8,000
Kenmore, 2,800
Comrie, 2,600
Culross, 3,000
St. Madoes, 900
"Neilston, 4,200
"Roberton, 3,000
Makerston, 1,800
Linton, 2,113
Yetholm, 2,104
Crailing, 2,500
Hobkirk, 2,830
Eckford, 3,699
Ashkirk, 2,000
("Whithorn, 2,000
Wigton,....-3 Stonykirk, 3,169
( Wigton, 2,400
Real
Rental in
1832-40.
£3,123
984
9,500
5,000
9,262
3,000
10,500
23,400
6,300
8,000
10,227
9,500
2,888
3,000
11,400
5,775
4,300
10,661
5,000
2,579
5,200
14,000
7,897
5,925
1,700
7,000
7,298
4,145
1,900
6,300
6,560
11,000
5,000
6,000
24,000
9,360
12,000
6,289
4,000
16,475
6,500
4,000
5,514
5,620
7,000
7,095
8,676
4,479
9,000
12,000
4.500
Total Rental of 99 Parishes,.. .£287,139 £748,847
XXIV
INTRODUCTION,
ANIMALS.
Scotland and England have so freely interchanged their esteemed or approved breeds
■of domestic animals, that few varieties exist in either except such as, in order to be dis-
criminated, require the nice distinctions of the natural historian. Scotland's most noted
peculiar breeds, are the Shetland pony, the Clydesdale horse, the Ayrshire, Galloway,
Buchan, and Argyllshire black cattle, the Cheviot and Shetland sheep, and the colley
or shepherd's dog. But even some of these now belong more or less to both divisions of
the island. The wild animals and birds, if Wales be included, are also, with few excep-
tions, the same or similar. Game, owing chiefly to the vastness of the extent of waste
lands, is exceedingly abundant.
MANUFACTURES.
A fair estimate of the manufactures of Scotland, may be formed by reference to otir
articles on Glasgow and Dundee. If a view be desired of nearly the whole, reference
aeeds only to be made further to the articles -on Paisley, Kilmarnock, Dunfermline,
■Stirling, Hawick, Galashiels, Montrose, Hamilton, Musselburgh, Irvine, Kirkcaldy,
Aberdeen, East Kilpatrick, and Lasswade. Hand-loom weaving — the department most
deeply affecting by far the largest class of the population interested in manufactures- —
was made the subject of commission inquiry in 1838, and of reports returned to the
House of Commons in February, 1839. The inquiry was made in two territorial divi-
sions ; one «over all Scotland south of the Forth and Clyde, including Kilsyth and
'Campsie on the further side of the connecting canal ; the other, over what the report
calls the east of Scotland, but over, in point of fact, very nearly every site of a loom not
included in the former division. The following table indicates, as exhibited in the
report, the number of separate trades or fabrics in the country south of the Forth and
•Clyde, the locality of each fabric, the number of looms employed in each, and the aver-
age rate of nett wages earned in each department, and distributed into two classes, — the
first being the average nett amount earned, by adult skilled artisans, on the finer quali-
ties of the fabric, — the second being the average nett amount earned by the less skilled
and younger artisans, on the coarser qualities of the fabric.
Fabrics.
-Districts where woven.
Pullicates, ginghams, Lanarkshire.especially in Air-
stripes, checks, &.C., drie, Lanark, and Glasgow;
also at Girvan, and other pla-
ices on the west coast.
Shawls, -zebras, &c,
Plain muslins, ........
Fancy muslins, silk
gauzes, &c,
Thibets and tartans,
Carlisle ginghams, ...
Woollens, ,. ............
Carpets,.... ......
Sailcloths, coarse lin-
ens, and haircloth,...
Paisley, Glasgow, &c.
Lanarkshire, Glasgow, Irvine,
Hamilton, Eaglesham, &c.
Renfrewshire and Lanark-
shire.
Thibets in Lanarkshire ; a few
tartans in Dalmellington, Strai
ton, Sanquhar, and Hawick.
Dumfries-shire.
South-east of Scotland, Gala-
shiels, Hawick, Jedburgh, &c.
Kilmarnock, Glasgow, and
Lasswade.
Port-Glasgow,
Musselburgh.
Leith, and
Date
of
Introduction.
ReFidence
"Number
Clear Weekly "Wages.
manufacturers.
looms.
1st Class.
2d Class.
1786.
Glasgow.
18,-: 20
7s. 0d.
4s. 6d.
1802 to
Paisley, Glas-
1806.
gow, and Ed-
inburgh.
7,750
10s. 6d.
6s. Od.
1784.
Glasgow.
10,080
7s. 6d.
4s. 6d.
Silk gauzes
Paisley and
in 1760.
Glasgow.
7,860
9s. -6d.
'6s. Od.
Thibets in
Glasgow and
1824.
Hawick.
2,980
7s. Od.
5s. 6d.
Carlisle.
1,575
7s. 6d.
4s. 6d.
Galashiels,
...
Hawick, and
Jedburgh.
■950
16s. 6d.
lis. Od.
Kilmarnock,
«■•
Glasgow, and
Lasswade.
865
18s. Od.
lis. Od.
Port-Glasgow,
Leith, and
Musselburgh.
580
13s. Od.
10s. Od.
Total,...|
51,060
INTRODUCTION. XXV
More than half of the whole number of weavers are employed on the lowest paid fabrics.
The number of weaving families., being to that of the looms in the proportion of 5 to 9,
amounts to about 28,366 ; and as this number indicates all the adult male weavers,
22,694 looms must be worked by women and children, ■"Coupling these facts," says
the reporter, " with the great number of old men who come into the class of heads of
families, and are usable to work hard, I am decidedly of opinion that not less than two-
thirds of the whole number of weavers belong to the second class of wages in the above
table ; whilst no less than 30,075, out of the 51,060 looms, are employed on the worst
paid work."" The report on the country north of the Forth, the Clyde, and the connect-
ing canal, distributes the fabrics generally into woollen, linen, and cotton. The weavers
are employed on carpets in factories, and on hard and soft tartans, and tartan shawls, in
their own oottages ; and "are in a condition similar to that of the other labouring
classes in the country." The manufacture of tartans is seated chiefly at Stirling and its
vicinity, and at Aberdeen, employs probably 2,500 looms, and may be considered as very
prosperous, and likely to improve. The linen manufacture employs about 26,000 looms ;
and may be distributed into harness work, heavy work, and ordinary work. The harness
work, as damask table-cloths, table-covers, and napkins, is carried on almost exclu-
sively in and near Dunfermline ; has doubled the number of its looms since 1826 ;
employed in 1838 about 3.000 ; exports nearly half of its produce to the United States ;
and yields average weekly wages of about 8s. 6d. The heavy work, as sail-cloth,
broad-sheetings, floor-cloth, and some kinds of bagging, is seated principally in Dundee,
Arbroath, Aberdeen, Montrose, and Kirkcaldy ; employs about 4,000 looms, — all in
factories ; and yields weekly wages, in not rare cases, of 15s., and of not less than 8s. 6d.
average. The ordinary work, as dowlas, common sheetings, and osnaburghs, may be
considered as the staple linen-manufacture of Scotland, is seated principally in Forfar-
shire ; employs from 17,000 looms in summer, to 22,000 or 23,000 in winter, — nearly all
small detached buildings adjacent to the weavers' cottages ; and yields average weekly
wages of from 6s. to 7s. 6d. to the first class, and from 4s. to 5s. 6d. to the second. The
cotton-manufacture employs about 5,000 looms ; and, next to Perth, which is its prin-
cipal seat, is carried on chiefly at Dunblane, Aucbterarder, Balfron, and Kinross.
The weavers, except at Perth, and in a few instances at Kirkcaldy and Aberdeen, are
employed wholly by Glasgow manufacturers ; and at Kinross, Dunblane, and Auchter-
arder, earn not more than 4s. of average weekly wages.* From returns made to the
House of Commons, by Mr. James Stuart, factory-inspector, a clear tabular view is
obtained of the statistics of all the factories of Scotland in 1838.
* Originally, hand-loom weaving was in 'the British islands, as it continues to be in general on the con-
tinent of Europe, a domestic occupation. At first, indeed, the weaver was both capitalist and labourer,
as the linen-weaver is still in many parts of the north of Ireland. He and his family there cultivate the
flax, heckle it, s,pin it into yarn, weave it, and sell the web in the linen-market. This almost total
absence of the division of labour is, however, confined to the material and the district that we have men-
tioned. In every other branch of weaving, even in Ireland, and in every branch in Great Britain, with the
unimportant exception of a small class of weavers called customer-weavers in the north of England and in
Scotland, the material is supplied by the capitalist or manufacturer (generally called the putter out of
work) to the weaver, and he is paid on returning a given quantity of finished cloth. In most cases the
loom belongs to the weaver, or is hired by him. If he has not a loom, he must work either at a loom
belonging to some other weaver, or at one belonging to a manufacturer. In the former case he is called
a journeyman, and the weaver at whose loom he works a master weaver: the journeyman has no imme-
diate connexion with the manufacturer, and receives from his own immediate employer, the master weaver,
a fixed portion, generally two-thirds, of the price which the former receives from the manufacturer. The
weaver who works on the looms belonging to a manufacturer is called a factory- weaver, or shop-weaver,
a designation arising from the circumstance that the manufacturers' looms are placed in his manufactory,
or as it is usually called, his shop. Neither the factory- weavers, nor the journeymen, form large portions
of the weaving population. The bulk'of the hand-loom weavers own or hire their own looms, keep them
in their own cottages, and perform themselves, assisted by their wives and children, both the weaving and
the operations which are subsidiary to it. — Report of the Commissio7ters on the condition of the Hand-loom
Weavers, dated February 19, 1841.
XXVI
INTRODUCTION.
COUNTIES.
COTTON MILLS.
Aberdeen,
Ayr,
Bute,
Dumbarton,
Dumfries,
Kirkcudbright, ....
Lanark,
Linlithgow,
Perth,
Renfrew,
Stirling,
WOOLLEN MILLS
Aberdeen,
Ayr,
Berwick,
Clackmannan,
Dumfries,
Edinburgh,
Fife,
Forfar,
Kincardine,
Kirkcudbright, ....
Lanark,
Linlithgow,
Perth,
Renfrew,
Roxburgh,
Selkirk
Stirling,
Wigtown,
FLAX MILLS.
Aberdeen,
Ayr,
Edinburgh
Fife,
Forfar,
Kincardine
Lanark,
Linlithgow
Perth,
Renfrew,
SILK MILLS.
Edinburgh,
Lanark
Renfrew,
Totals
Nr>. of Mills. I
Moving Power.
4
4
2
4
1
1
107
1
7
58
3
192
7
18
1
24
3
1
1
1
1
2
3
1
7
2
17
15
7
1
112
4
3
7
46
96
8
2
1
13
3
183
1
3
1
492
Stettin.
5
4
1
4
2
123
1
1
50
2
6 |193
5
6
U
4(5)
37
10
3
6
31
103
1
2
1
1
2
160
1
4
1
is
396
367
1,0
10
175
30
3,696
16
16
1,124
48
5,612
150
94
148
101
68
16
47
624
428
46
176
458
?,072
7
40
16
15
92
3,350
12
106
30
148
9,734
Water.
250
208
60
242
2S
55
450
18
538
797
82
2,728
142
155:
16'
137
60
6
9,
7"
4
24
99
26
242
183
68
12
116
1,199
200
"68
531
304
53|
16
223
100
91
1,495£
280 5,4224
Total
Horse
Power.
Actual
Power
employed
617
338
70
417
58
55
4,146
34
554
1,921
130
8,340
292
249 J
16'
285
60
6
9,
7'
4
24
101
8
99
26
310
199
115
12
1,823
628
46
244
989
2,376
60£
40
32
238
192
4,845_i
12
106
30
148
Persons Employed.
497
240
60
222
52
45
3,520
16
460
1,480
95
6,776?
267
173 J
16
212
57
6
9i
7'
4
22
52
6
65
17
279
159
99
11
1,462
510
38
184
827
2,250
58i
40"
16
199
110
62
91
14
88
13
9
318
24
210
373
46
1,248
75
24
22
6
8
2
4
1
5
2
13
57
25
1
245
97
18
19
11
60
3
14
12
41.15J? 234
12
52
27
45
44
91
89
15,156i[ 12,444^1,816
775
428
205
541
48
83
7,911
30
680
3,307
245
14,253
503
220
7
378
34
3
1
23
274
7
85
25
269
145
146
13
2,149
1,346
128
234
1,076
3,953
51
94
19
244
228
7,373
7
194
133
334
24,109
953
442
236
735
45
82
12,059
46
904
4,171
402
20,075
505
186
23
683
38
16
7
" 2
20
299
2
142
16
358
204
156
25
2,682
1,495
126
358
1,952
5,375
92
160
9
345
3
Total.
1,790
961
455
1,364
106
174
20,288
100
1,794
7,851
693
35,576
1,083
430
30
1,083
78
32
17
7
4
48
575
9
227
41
640
406
327
39
5,076
2,938
272
611
3,039
9,388
146
254
42
601
606
10,290 17,897
31
171
138
340
33,387
38
410
315
763
59,312
Females employed In cotton-mills, 601 between 9 and 13; 10,052 between 13 and 18; and 13,981
above 18; total, 24,634. In woollen- mills, 119 between 9 and 13; 1,354 between 13 and 18; and 1,055
above 18; total, 2,528. In flax-mills, 142 between 9 and 13; 5,105 between 13 and 18; and 7,912above
18; total, 13,159. In silk-mills, 74 between 9 and 13; 253 between 13 and 18; and 220 above 18;
total, 547. No children under 9 were employed in any of the factories.
INTRODUCTION.
xxm
The soap-manufacture is of large aggregate, and is carried on at Leith, Prestonpans,
Aberdeen, Montrose, Glasgow, and Paisley. — The manufacture of kelp, once producing
above £200,000 vearlv, has nearly ceased since the reduction of the duty on barilla and
salt. The iron trade — which is great and increasing — belongs principally to Lanark-
shire, Fifeshire, Carron, and Muirkirk, and will be well understood by reference to the
articles on these localities, and to those on Glasgow, and the Monklands. The distilla-
tion of spirits produced, in 1708, 50,844 gallons ; in 1791, 1,696,000 gallons ; in 1831,
6,021,536 imperial gallons for home consumption, and 149,849 for exportation to Eng-
land; and in 1838, 6,124,035 imperial gallons for home consumption. 2,215,329 for ex-
portation to England, and 861,069 for exportation to Ireland. The following is a return
of the proof gallons of spirits distilled in each collection of excise, and within the limits
of the head-office of excise in Scotland, in each year, from 10th October 1839 to 10th
October 1841, and showing the total proof gallons for each of these years : —
COLLECTION'S.
Aberdeen
Artryle, Xorth
Arevle, South
Avr
Caithness .
Dnrofries
Edinburgh •
Elgin ,
Fife
Carry up
Tears ended Oct. 10,
COLLECTIONS
1S40.
1S41.
21S.Q46
214.337
Brought up •
57,075
5S.745
Glasgow
904,910
1,024/S9
Haddington
471.254
471.41S
Inverness
94.517
" ,--
Linlithgow
80.607
67,149
Montrose
1,531,965
1,339.237
Perth
336,162
351656
Stirling
565.017
605,049
Total
4,311,453
4,225,SIS
COilM
ERCE.
Years ended Oct. 10,
1S40.
1S41.
4,311.453
4.225.S1S
2,007,301
1.SOS.666
416,190
392.931
218.725
210.740
. 586.716
600.S49
97.557
93.316
. 326,252
2S5.5S7
1,068,159
992,637
9,C32^53 8,570,744
Scotland's exports consist principally of the produce of her cotton and linen manufac-
tures ; and her imports, of the raw materials for her cotton and linen fabrics, and of
articles of colonial and foreign produce, which are demanded by the growing taste and
luxuriousness of her population. To enumerate subordinate articles, or those included
in this general classification, would be to write a list of goods as long, tasteless, and
tiresome, as that of a Tender of all wares. Till about the year 1755, when the exports
amounted in Talue to £535,576, and the imports to £465,411, Scotland's commerce was
almost as unknowing of foreign lauds as her own hardy mountaineers, and as cold and
cheerless as their climate and their dress. But from that period, and especially from a
decade before the close of last century, it has progressively, though not uniformly, moved
on to importance. The following is an account of the official and declared value of the
imports into and the exports from the different Scottish ports, from 1824 to the latest
period at which the accounts are made up : —
Official Value of Exports.
Official Value of Expohts.
r
Imports
British and
Foreign
Declared
r
Imports
British and
Foreign
Declared
Furs.
into
Irish Pro-
and Colo.
Tout.
Value of
Tears.
into
Irish Pro-
and Colo-
Total.
Va^ne of
Scotland.
duce and
Hasutacmres.
nial Mer-
chandise.
Exports.
Scol.ar.d-
:'-:? 2: i
Manufactures.
nial Mer-
chandise.
Exports.
1S24
£3,145.953
£5.009.324
£159.396
£5.169,220
£2,670.131
1S33
£4.63S.6S2
£6.820.331
£130,721
£7.051.102
£2 636 840
1S25
3,719,366
4,937.746
109.81 1
5,047,557
2.721.166
1S34
4.663 955
7,159.102
117.5*4
7.276 666
2 647,212
]&6
3,036,679
4,SS3,074
147.270
4,430.344
2,167,459
1S35
4,659.151
S.372,593
156.735
S 529.333
3,272.250
1827
3.94S.2C5
5.932,350
126.745
6.059,595
2.745.965
1336
6,053.611
8.258.673
131,572
8,390.245
3;65.995
182 3
A. 023,642
6,148.444
1S5.1SS
6,:33,f32
2,697.520
1&7
5.130,371
7.250.554
134.332
7.364. SS6
2,724.476
1S29
3.863.994
0,558.557
127.5-,0
6,f56.117
2,737,S35
1S3S
5,873,612
10,012.599
134 790
10,147.339
3,469.051
1830
3::-.*-.i
6,931392
125.941
7,110,333
2.S13.143
1S39
4,^-33,611
11,216.504
105.376
1I.321,S00
3.961,692
1S31
<1S7.0S7
7,943,612
111J0S6
S0O4.69S
3.189,318
1S40
6.614446
12.956,241
127.440
13,0S3.6S4
4,391 S71
1632
4,451,351
7,120,595
155,615
7.276,210
2,640,751
1S41
6,476,670
12,240,523
132,451
12,372,974
4,124,957
The distribution of the commerce, if simply remembrance be had that Greenock and
Port-Glasgow are dependent on Glasgow, and Leith dependent on Edinburgh, will be
understood from a tabular view of the gross customs, paid during the years 1835, 1840,
and 1841, at each of the Scottish ports : —
Customs,
CcSt-TTt,
Cos loses,
Poets.
1635.
1840.
1851.
Aberdeen
£53,335
£80,013
£76,126
Ayr ....
1,133
1,827
1.463
Ailoa (from 5th January, 1341)
...
2,235
Bai.ff ....
1,112
1,357
1,698
Borrowstonness
3,769
4,670
4,073
Campbeltown . .
381
433
934
Dumfries . . .
4.261
9 107
8,766
Dundee •
45,609
63.S46
48.13S
Glasgow
314,701
472,it3
526,100
Grangemouth . . .
21,325
31,216
20.692
Grpennck
448,661
341.647
4-. .-:'
lnverue=s , . a
576
6,171
4,166
Customs,
Customs,
Customs
Posts.
1S35.
ISM.
1S41.
Irvine . .
£2.441
£3,r92
£3,711
Kirkcaldy '_ .
5,921
4,207
4.217
Kirkwall
369
671
771
Leith
4S9.3M
602,999
6' 4,C~3
Lerwick • •
1 272
707
153
Mi.ntrose . •
6,827
33.463
31,713
Perth (from 5th July, 1840)
10,766
12,381
Port-Glasgow
125,i'62
84,369
100.278
Stornoway ...
555
646
349
Stranraer
292
567
653
Wick
1,676
1,140
1,232
XXV111
INTRODUCTION.
FISHERIES.
The fisheries of Scotland have long formed a valuable and important branch of indus-
try.— The total annual value of the salmon-fisheries has been estimated at £150,000.
The Ayr, Beauly, Clyde, Conon, Dee, Deveron, Don, Earn, Eden, North and South
Esks, Findhorn, Langwell, Moy, Ness, Shin, Spey, Tay, Teith, Tweed, and Ythan
rivers, are all celebrated for their salmon-fishings. — The total quantity of herrings cured
in Scotland within the year ending 5th April, 1840, was 543,945 barrels ; the total
quantity found entitled to the official brand, under the act 1st Will. IV, c. 54, was 152,231
barrels ; and the total quantity exported was 252,522 barrels ; being a decrease of
11,614$ barrels in the quantity cured, of 1,428* in the quantity branded, but an increase
of 12,7911 in the quantity exported, as compared with the preceding year. Of cod and
ling, 93,5601 cwts. were cured dried, and 6,053 barrels cured in pickle ; the quantity
found entitled to the official stamp and brand, under the provisions of the said act, was
21,695i cwts. dried, and 3,205 barrels pickled, and the total quantity exported was
29,656i cwts. dried, and 24 barrels pickled ; being an increase over the preceding year
of 8,281 cwts. in the quantity cured dried, but a decrease of 3,9981 barrels pickled, a
decrease in the quantity punched and branded of 2,2401 cwts. and 1,888 barrels, but an
increase of 2,954i cwts. in the quantity exported. In catching and curing these fish,
11,893 boats, manned by 52,037 fishermen and boys, were employed in the shore-curing
department of the fishery ; the number of curers, coopers,, gutters, and labourers
employed, was 36,681 ; and the total number of persons employed was 88,718 ; being
an increaso over the preceding year of 536 boats, 1,799 fishermen, and of 3,143 in the
total number of persons employed.
The following is an account of the total number of barrels of white herrings which
have been cured on board vessels cleared out for the fishery, or cured on shore, in the
year ended 5th April, 1840 ; and also of the number of boats and hands which have
been employed in the shore-curing, herring, cod, and ling fisheries.
Barrels of
Stations. herrings
curid.
Campbeltown and Islay,... 1,511
Dumfries and Stranraer,.. 1,665
Glasgow 8,640
Greenock and Ayr, Irvine
and Saltcoats 17,418
Inverary and Lochgilphead 3,225
Loch-Broom, 1,461
Loch-Carron and Dunve-
gan, 101
Loch-Shildag, 392
Rothsay 17,119
Stornoway and Bana, 1,178
Tobermory and Fort- Wil-
liam, 1,841
Isle of Man, 21,152
Liverpool,
St. Ives,
Anstruther, 39,542
"Whitehaven, 3,008
Banff, 14,057
Burntisland, 13,021
Cromarty 8,342
Eyemouth 31,521
Findhorn 8,713
Fraserburgh, 36,806
Number
of
boats.
505
84
383
454
434
830
179
263
574
549
541
55
404
203
48
86
176
315
163
191
145
Number
of tislif r-
iii en and
boys.
1,599
430
1,110
1,362
1,742
3,320
721
786
3,336
1,590
3,860
271
1,611
963
220
371
489
1,307
741
622
707
Helmsdale,
Leith,
Lybster,
Orkney, North Isles,
Orkney, South Isles,
Peterhead
Port-Gordon,
Shetland, Lerwick,
Shetland, IJnst,
Shetland, Walls,
Stonehaven,
Thurso,
Tongue
Wick
London, including Dover,
Portsmouth, Gravesend,
and Yarmouth, from
which resident officers
have now been with-
drawn,
North Sunderland,
Whitby,
Barrels of
berrings
cured
46,571
4,684
39,077
6,381
13,015
53,677
729
16,000
5,319
4,366
4,787
6,992
3,169
91,465
16,225
774
Number
of
boats.
236
338
264
239
497
146
301
740
139
306
172
102
156
366
893
177
239
Number
of fisher-
men and
boys.
1,180
936
1,156
993
2,219
589
1,505
3,528
651
1,766
888
485
780
1,773
5,095
473
862
Total 543,945 11,893 52,037
SHIPPING.
The shipping of Scotland, at a comparatively recent period, was inconsiderable ; and
even so late as 1656, comprised only 137 vessels, of from 250 to 300 tons each ; and
aggregately, 5,736 tons. In 1760, the vessels employed in the foreign and coasting trade,
and in fisheries, were 999 in number, and 53,913 in tonnage. In 1800, the number
was 2,415, carrying 171,728 tons, and employing 14,820 seamen. In 1828, the number
INTRODUCTION
XXIX
carrying more than 100 tons each was 983, the number carrying less than 100 tons each
was 2,160, and the aggregate tonnage of both classes was 300,836. Of this gross
amount of tonnage, Aberdeen claimed 46,587 tons ; Greenock, 37,786 ; Glasgow,
36,220; Leith, 26,107; Grangemouth, 24,635; Dundee, 24,227; Montrose, 15,778;
Irvine, 14,230 ; Dumfries, 12,283 ; Kirkcaldy, 11,540 ; Borrowstounness, 8,740 ; Port-
Glasgow, 7,155; Banff, 6,431; Inverness, 5,092; Anstruther, 4,130; Perth, 4,116;
Kirkwall, 3,247; Stornoway, 3,133; Campbeltown, 3,088; Lerwick, 2,622; Thurso,
2,241 ; and Stranraer, 1,448. A considerable increase has been made in the aggregate
amount, and a very material change has occurred in the distribution since 1828 ; and
both will be best seen in a tabular view, of the number of ships belonging to Scottish
ports on the 31st of December, 1835, and of the amount of tonnage, and number of
hands.
Ports. Ships.
Glasgow, 312
Dundee and Perth 387
Aberdeen, 359
Greenock, 367
Leith, 227
Grangemouth, 184
Montrose, 181
Kirkcaldy, 179
Irvine and Ayr, 128
Dumfries, 192
Borrowstounness,.. 121
Tone.
Men.
58,478
4,321
44,869
3,002
41,743
3,095
42,722
2,723
23,558
1,786
22,887
1,239
18,012
1,133
13.493
1,301
13,393
889
11,798
779
8,452
488
Ports. Ships.
Inverness, 160
Port-Glasgow, 50
Kirkwall, 77
Banff, 75
Lerwick, 101
Thurso, 40
Stornoway, 56
Campbeltown, 54
Stranraer, 37
Tons.
Mt»n
7,597
630
7,500
400
4,218
323
4,218
322
3,967
744
2,573
180
2,302
231
2,251
203
1,789
135
Total, 3,287 335,820 23,924
On the 31st December, 1840, the number of vessels belonging to Scotland was 3,479, of
an aggregate tonnage of 429,204 tons, and manned by 28,428 men. The number of
vessels built in Scotland, iu the year ending 5th January, 1841, was 263, of an aggre-
gate tonnage of 42,322 tons. — Steam navigation, which was introduced, or for the first
time successfully experimented, in 1812, and which, for many years, was comparatively
tiny and timid, has, for about 14 years past, received rapid increase, undergone great
improvements, and singularly enhanced the country's commerce. Steam-vessels of all
descriptions, from the superb ship of 400 tons or upwards, to the sturdy tug-boat or the
toy like shallop, almost everywhere smoke along the coast, or athwart the friths, or
across the ferries. Their number, in 1838, — their tonnage, exclusive of engine-room, —
and their distribution among the several ports, will be best stated in a table.
Ships. Tone.
Aberdeen 13 2,630
Alloa, 5 352
Campbeltown,... 3 311
Dumfries 1 160
Dundee,, 10 1,773
Glasgow,. 53 3,491
Ships. Tone.
Greenock, 2 186
Inverness 1 18
Irvine, 1 58
Kirkcaldy 3 286
Leith, 7 1,225
Montrose, 2 469
Perth
Port-Glasgow,....
Stranraer
Wigton,
Ships.
1
1
2
1
Total,... 106
Tons.
19
54
221
146
13,399
BANKS.
Five of the Scottish banks — the Bank of Scotland, the Royal bank of Scotland, the
British Linen Company, the Commercial bank of Scotland, and the National bank of
Scotland, the first of which was established by Act of Parliament, and the other four
incorporated by Royal charter — do not require, in pursuance of the act 7th Geo. IV.,
cap. 67, to lodge lists of partners. All the others involve the responsibility of each
partner to the full extent of his possessions ; and most are joint-stock establishments,
with large constituencies. Their notes, which are permitted to be for twenty shillings,
but not less, leave scope for an ample silver currency, but almost entirely exclude from
the country coins of gold. Each bank is obliged to have exchequer bills in its possession
equal to the average amount of its issues. A system of mutual exchange and security,
established and worked by the banks themselves, acts as a check upon over-issues ; the
exchange is made in the country weekly, and in Edinburgh twice a-week ; and whatever
surplus remains of one bank's notes over those of another with which the exchange is
made, must be bought up with specie, exchequer bills, or an order on the Bank of Eng-
land. The following table exhibits the names, numbers, dates and statistics, for the
years 1837, 1838, and 1839, of all the public banks.
XXX
INTRODUCTION.
FlBM AND HCAD OFFICE.
Esrab.
IMied.
Branches.
1838. 1839.
Bank of Scotland, Edinburgh,.
Royal Bank of Scotland, Edinburgh,.
British Linen Company, Edinburgh,.
Commercial Bank o( Scotland, Edinburgh,.
National Bank of Scotland, .Edinburgh,.
Aberdeen Bank,... Aberdeen,..
Ayr Bank, Ayr
Dundee Banking Company, Dundee,
Dundee Union Bank, ..Dundee,....
Dundee New Bank (dissolved Oct. 10, 1838,)..
Glasgow and Ship Bank, Glasgow,...,
Greenock Bank (Private Bank,).,
Leith Bank, Leith
Paisley Bank (discontinued Nov. "20, 1833,)
Perth Banking Company,... .Perth
Renfrewshire Bank Co.,... (Private Bank,).,
Paisley Union Bank, (Joined to No. 21,).,
Aberdeen Town and County Bank, Aberdeen,..,
Arbroath Bank .Arbroath, ...
Dundee Com. Bank (dissolved Oct. 10, 1838,).,
Glasgow Union Banking Co — Glasgow,
Ayrshire Banking Co., Ayr
Western Bank of Scotland, Glasgow,...
Central Bank of Scotland Perth,
North of Scotland Banking Co Aberdeen,..
Clydesdale Banking Co Glasgow,....
Southern Bank of Scotland, Dumfries,..
Eastern Bank of Scotland, Dundee
Edinburgh and Leith Bank, Edinburgh,.
1695
1727
1746
1810
1825
1809
1825
1825
1825
1830
1831
1832
1834
1836
1837
1837
1838
1838
24
7
38
49
37
7
4
4
1
1
3
12
3
3
5
3
16
6
12
7
63
25
7
40
50
35
9
4
4
1
1
3
11
3
3
5
3
10
1
16
6
17
7
15
1
29
7
44
51
35
11
6
1
4
"i
3
11
3
5
ii
1
20
7
21
7
21
1
5
1
122
10
57
79
4
27
"9
4
185
"*3
470
81
146
483
98
497
469
830
163
11
54
80
6
30
4
182
"3
47+
83
138
484
104
4.54
402
833
731
189
11
52
82
28
"*9
is2
491
80
141
508
97
469
465
1564
818
226
774
785
INTERNAL COMMUNICATION.
The roads of Scotland, till about the middle of last century, were so few and bad, that
three-fourths of the whole country were inaccessible to a wheeled vehicle. The High-
lands, in particular, could be traversed only by their own chamois-moving mountaineers,
and, even on their least upland grounds, were sublimely uncognizant of both the motion
and the mechanism of a wheel ; and at enormous cost and labour — as will be found de-
tailed in our article on the Highlands — they were literally revolutionized in political, social,
and agricultural character, simply by their being pierced and traversed with roads, and
brought into acquaintance with the unpoetic cart. Both turnpike and subordinate roads
are now ramified through most districts to an amount so nearly co- extensive with the
wants of the country, that the absence of them in any locality is, in most instances,
evidence of its being a tract of moorish or mountain waste ; and as Sir H. Parnell
remarks, in his Treatise on Roads, " in consequence of the excellent materials which
abound in all parts of Scotland, and of the greater skill and science of Scottish trustees
and surveyors, the turnpike roads in Scotland are superior to those in England." Owing
to almost constant, and generally bold, inequality of surface, Scotland offers few facili-
ties for the construction of canals ; yet it has seven of these works, two of which connect
the eastern and the western seas, while the features of the others combine interest with
utility. The Caledonian canal extends from the vicinity of Inverness on the north-east,
to Corpach, near Fort- William, on the south-west, a distance of 60J miles, 374 of which
are through Lochs Ness, Oich, and Lochy ; and communicates between the Beauly
frith and the head of Loch-Eil. The Forth and Clyde canal extends from the frith of
Forth, or mouth of the Carron, at Grangemouth, to Bowling-bay on the Clyde, a dis-
tance of 35 miles ; and sends off a small branch to Glasgow, and a smaller one to the
mouth of the Cart, to communicate by that river with Paisley. The Edinburgh and
Glasgow union canal extends from Port-Hopetoun at Edinburgh, to the Forth and Clyde
canal at Port-Downie, near Falkirk, a distance of 3H miles. The Monkland canal
extends from the basin at the north-east extremity of Glasgow, to Woodhall, about 2
miles south-east of Airdrie, a distance of 12 miles ; communicates at its west end by a
tut of a mile in length with the basin of the Glasgow branch of the Forth and Clyde
INTRODUCTION. XXXI
canal : and, in terms of an act obtained in 1837, may send off a branch to the north side
of Duke-street, Glasgow. The Oman canal lies across the northern extremity of the
long peninsula of Knapdale and Kintyre, is about 9 miles in length, and connects Loch-
Fyne with the Western ocean. The Aberdeenshire canal extends from the harbour of
Aberdeen, up the valley of the Don, to Port-Elphinstone, near Inverury, a distance of
18i miles. The Glasgow, Paisley, and Ardrossan canal, was projected to extend from
Port-Eglinton, on the south side of Glasgow, to the harbour of Ardrossan, but has been
executed only to Johnstone, a distance of 11 miles. A railway to continue the commu-
nication of this incompleted work, was projected to extend from Johnstone to Ardrossan,
a distance of 22* miles, but has been constructed only to Kilwinning, about one-third of
the distance. The Kilmarnock and Troon railway, extending 9J miles between the
places mentioned in its designation, was the earliest public railway, or rather tram-road,
in Scotland. The Monkland and Kirkintilloch railway connects the rich coal districts
of Old and New Monkland with the Forth and Clyde canal, in the vicinity of Kirkintil-
loch, 10 miles from Glasgow. The Ballochney railway extends from the termination of
the Monkland and Kirkintilloch railway in the parish of New Monkland, 4 miles east-
ward ; and there forks into two lines, the one of which traverses the ironstone and coal-
field lying to the south, and the other that lying: to the north, of Airdrie-hill. The
Wishaw and Coltness railway extends about 4 miles southward, from the termination of
the former line, in the parish of Old Monkland, and is projected to be executed further
southward, to the estates of Wishaw, Coltness, and Allanton. The Glasgow and Garn-
kirk railway extends 8i miles westward from the vicinity of Gartsherrie bridge, where it
joins the western termination of the Ballochney railway, to the junction of the Forth and
Clyde and the Monkland canals at Glasgow ; and was the earliest railway in Scotland
constructed with double lines, and for the transit of locomotive engines. The Slamannan
railway extends from the east end of the Ballochney railway to the Union canal, not far
from Linlithgow, a distance of about 12i miles ; and sends off a branch to Bathgate.
The Pollock and Govan railway connects the mineral fields on the south-east of Glasgow
with that city ; and terminates at the harbour, on the level of the quay. The Glasgow,
Paisley, Kilmarnock, and Ayr railway, extends from the harbour of Glasgow to that of
Ayr, a distance of 40 miles ; joins the Ardrossan railway at Kilwinning, and the Kil-
marnock and Troon railway at Troon ; and will send off from the vicinity of Dairy a
branch about 11 miles long, to Kilmarnock. The Glasgow and Greenock railway is
common to the former railway to Paisley, and thence extends to the centre of Greenock,
near the harbour, a distance from Glasgow of 22 i miles. The Paisley and Renfrew
railway extends from the north side of Paisley to the Clyde at Renfrew, a distance of 31
miles. The Edinburgh and Glasgow railway connects these cities by way of Linlithgow
and Falkirk, is 46 miles in length, and pursues nearly the same course as the Union and
the Forth and Clyde canals. The Edinburgh and Dalkeith railway extends from the
south side of Edinburgh to the South-Esk at Dalhousie-Mains, a distance of 8i miles ;
sends off branches to Leith, Fisherrow, and Dalkeith, which increase its aggregate
length to 15 miles ; and from its south end is continued by private lines to the collieries
of Newbattle and Arniston. The Edinburgh and Newhaven extends about 2i miles
from the centre of the metropolis to Trinity-pier at Newhaven. The Dundee and New-
tyle railway extends 10i miles from the north side of Dundee to Newtyle, and sends off
branches to Cupar- Angus and Glammis. The Dundee and Arbroath extends from the
harbour of Dundee to Arbroath, a distance of 161 miles. The Arbroath and Forfar
railway connects these towns, extending 15i miles from a point of junction with the
Dundee and Arbroath railway. Most of the works thus traced in outline and mutual
relation will be found fully and separately described in the alphabetical arrangement.
PUBLIC REVENUE.
The revenue of Scotland, as to both its absolute amount and its relative proportion to
that of England, has to the full kept pace writh the increasing prosperity of the country.
It amounted, at the period of the Union, to £110,694 ; in 1788, to £1,099,148 ; and in
1813, to £4,204,097. Its sources, as well as its gross and nett amount, in the years
ending on the 5th of January 1837, 1838, and 1839, will be seen from the following
table*
XXXll
INTRODUCTION.
Year ending Jan. 5, 1S37.
Year ending Jan. 5, 1838.
Year ending Jan. 5, 1839.
Gross
Receipt.
Nett
Produce.
€»rnss
Receipt.
Nett
Pruduee.
Grosa
Receipt.
Nett
Produce.
£
1,587,648
2,656,183
552,686
235,837
219,048
£
1.487,693
2,403,930
538,581
235,367
207,918
1 ,626,291
2,431,963
529,538
227*607
221,059
£
1,511,972
2,201*482
521,556
227,520
209.604
£
1,666,398
2,451,928
549,678
236,380
223,491
£
1,518.981
2,198,355
536,115
236,277
211,54,3
Totals........
5,251,402
4,873,489
5,036,458
4,672.134
5,127,875
4,701,271
Another table will show the gross receipts in the years 1837 and 1838, on the chief
articles of the customs, excise, stamps, and taxes.
Customs and Excise. 1837
Coffee, £24.890
Com 73,680
( Foreign, 41,328
Spirits,-] Rum,'. 37,719
(British, 1,452,602
Malt 591,546
Wines, 114,277
Sugar, Molasses 544,039
Tea 203,74i
Timber, ,.. 123,502
Tobacco, 317,329
Auction-duties, ., 20,661
Glass 57,023
Excise licenses, 103,860.
Paper 92,244
Soap 77.488
Post-horse duty 18,718
Other articles,.", 163,604
183S.
£23,542
19,599
42,793
38,920
1,437,429
583,336
121,004
595,624
238,880
125,013
312.136
23,598
6.5,435
102,392
97,893
86,239
19,666
184,827
Totals,.. 4,058,254 4,118,326
Stamps and Taxes.
Deeds, ,
Probates, Legacies,
Bills of Exchange,
Bankers' Notes
Receipts,... ...
Marine Insurances,
Fire Insurances,
Licenses and Certificates,
Newspapers,.
Advertisements,
Stage Carriages, ...............
Land-tax, ..,,.... ... ..
Tax on Windows,
Servants,
Private Carriages, ...........
Horses,,. ,..„
Dogs,. .,
Other articles,
1837.
;1 12,813
134,895,
92,660
5,765
15.659
20,680
57.200
22,522
18,671
11,438
32,111
38,176
86,174,
14.102
29,875
22,976,
10,974
30,454
Totals,.... 757,145
1833.
£122,174
130,073
95 312
10,316
15,841
23,515
59,104
22,574
20,540
13,231
31,626
38,817
88,889
15,055
32,907
23,606
11,428
31,050
786,058
ADMINISTRATIVE DIVISIONS.
Scotland was anciently divided and subdivided into so many jurisdictions, and under-
went such frequent changes in their limits, that any successful attempt to enumerate
them would be insufferably irksome, and almost wholly uninstructive. The names of
some of the larger jurisdictions continue to be used, and serve aptly to designate sub-
divisions of extensive counties ; and other ancient names are,, in several instances, popu-
larly applied to whole counties in preference to the modern and legal designations. The
counties — or, more properly, the sheriffdoms or shires — have, for upwards of half-a-cen-
tury, been 33 in number. But they are excessively, and even ridiculously, various in
extent ; and, in many instances, are as grotesquely outlined, and even hewn into
detached pieces, as if sheer merry-andrewism had presided over their distribution. An
enormous addition, too, is made to the puzzle of their intertracery by quoad civilia
parishes—which in all parts of Scotland, except in one shire, constitute the only admin-
istrative subdivision— being, in a large number of instances, made to overleap the
county boundary-line, and to lie, either compactly or detaehedly, in two, or even three
shires. Lanarkshire is divided into three wards, — upper, middle, and lower ; and Kirk-
cudbrightshire, while just as legally and practically a shire as any of the other of the
32, is nominally a stewartry, — and wins diminishment or aggrandizement from the name,
exactly as one thinks of the feudal stewart of a limited jurisdiction, or the princely, the
royal Stewart of broad Scotland. Two of the counties — Bute and Orkney— consist
entirely of islands ; the former of those in the frith of Clyde, and the latter of the
Orkney and the Shetland archipelagoes, Three — Argyle, Inverness, and Ross — consist
chiefly of territory on the mainland, and partly of the islands of the Hebrides. Two
counties — Clackmannan and Kinross — comprehend each less than 84 square miles ;
seven — Linlithgow, Bute, Nairn, Renfrew, Dumbarton, Cromarty, and Selkirk,— com-
prehend less than 266 ; four — Inverness, Argyle, Perth, and Ross, — comprehend more
than 2,590 ; and four — Aberdeen, Sutherland, Dumfries, and Ayr, — comprehend more
INTRODUCTION. XXX1U
than 1,040. The following table gives the names of the shires in the order of their size,
beginning with the largest, and states the ancient names, whether of subdivisional or of
co-extensive application.
Shires. Ancient Names.
Inverness ...Lochaber, Badenoeo, Moidart,. Arisaig, Morer,. Knoydart, Glenelg, Strathglass, aaid
parts of Moray, Strathspey, and Ross, besides Skye, and other Hebridean islands.
Argyle, ., Cowal, Kintyre, Knapdale, Lorn, including Appin, Kingarloch, Ardnainurchan,
Suinart, Lochiel, Glenorehy, Morvern, and Ardgower, besides Mull, Isla, Jura,
and other Hebridean islands.
Perth, Perth, Stormont, Strathearn, Gowrie, Athole, Breadalbane, Monteith, Glenshiel,
Rannoch, Balquidder.
Ross, East-Ross, Aid-Ross, Kintail, Lochalsh, Kishorn, Toridon, Gairloch, Lochbroom,
Strathcarron, and Black Isle, besides Lewis, and other Hebridean islands.
Aberdeen, Mar, Buehan, Garioch, Formartin, Strathbogie.
Sutherland .....Sutherland, Strathnaver, Assynt,. Edderachylis, and Lord Reay's country.
Dumfries ...Nithsdale, Annandale, Eskdale, and Ewisdale.
Ayr .......Cunningham, Kyle, and Carrick.
Lanark, Clydesdale.
Forfar Angus, including Glenisla, Glenesk, and Glenprosen.
Orkney ...Orkney Islands and Shetland Islands.
Kirkcudbright, East-Galloway..
Caithness...... Caithness.
Roxburgh Teviotdale and Liddesdale.
Banff,... Strathdeveron, Boyne, Enzie, Balveny, and Strathaven,
Stirling,... Stirling, and part of Lennox.
Fife, Fife and Forthryfe.
Berwick........... Merse, Lammermoor, and Lauderdale.
Elgin, Central part of Moray, and part of Strathspey.
V>"igton, West Galloway..
Kincardine,... Mearns.
Edinburgh, Mid-Lothian..
Peebles,.. ..Tweeddale.
Haddington, East-Lothian .
Selkirk, .... Ettrick Forest..
Cromarty, Ross.
Dumbarton, Lennox.
Renfrew,.. Strathgryfe, and part of Lennox.
Nairn, Moray, &c.
Bute, Bute, Arran, &c.
Linlithgow, West-Lothian.
Kinross...... Part of Forthryfe, ? p.^
Clackmannan, ...Strathdevon, \
CONSTITUTION.
Till the reign of James I., all persons who held any portion of ground, however small,
by military service of the Crown, had seats in the Scottish parliament. The small
barons were afterwards excused from attendance, and represented by "two or more wise
men, according to the extent of their courr1^." Parliament appointed the time of its
own meetings and adjournments ; nominated committees to wield its powers during
recesses ; possessed not only a legislative but an executive character ; exercised a
commanding power in all matters of government ; appropriated the public money, and
appointed the treasurers of the exchequer ; levied armies, and nominated commanders ;
sent ambassadors to foreign states, and appointed the judges and courts of judicature ;
and even assumed power to alienate the regal demesne, to restrain grants from the
Crown, and to issue pardons to criminals. The king, even so late as in the person of
James IV.., was only the first servant of his people, and had his duty prescribed by par-
liament ; he had no veto in the parliament's proceedings ; nor could he declare war,
make peace, or conduct any important business of either diplomacy or government,
without that assembly's concurrence. The constitution of the country partook much
more the character of an aristocracy than that of a limited monarchy. The nobility —
who were dukes, marquises, earls, viscounts, and barons^were hereditary members of
parliament ; but they formed one house with the knights and burgesses, and occupied
common ground with them in all deliberations and decisive votes. The nobles and other
members of parliament were checked in their turn by the common barons, just as they
checked the king ; and even the common barons, or the landholders, were, to a large,
I. c
xxxiv
INTRODUCTION.
extent, checked in turn by their vassals. A jury of barons, who were not members of
parliament, might sit on a lord's case, of even the gravest character, and might decide it
without being unanimous in their verdict ; and the vassals of a baron so completely in-
volved or concentrated all his available power in their own fidelity and attachment, as
to oblige him, in many respects, to act more in the character of the father of his clan
than in that of a military despot. The king, too, — while denied nearly all strictly royal
prerogatives by the constitution of the country, — was indemnified for most by the acci-
dents of its feudal institutions. He acquired considerable interest among the burgesses
and lower ranks in consequence of the abuse of power by the lords and great landowners ;
and, when he had sufficient address to retain the affections of the people, he was gene-
rally able to humble the most powerful and dominant confederacy of the aristocrats ;
though, when he did not acquire popularity, he might dare to disregard the parliament
only at the hazard of his crown or his life. The kings, — aided by the clergy, whose
revenues were vast, and who were strongly jealous of the power of the nobility, — even-
tually succeeded in greatly diminishing, and, at times, entirely neutralizing-, the aristo-
cratical power of parliament. A select body of members was established, from among
the clergy, the nobility, the knights, and the burgesses, and called " the Lords of the
Articles ;" it was produced by the bishops choosing 8 peers, and the peers 8 bishops,
by the 16 who were elected choosing 8 barons or knights of the shires, and 8 commis-
sioners of royal burghs, and by 8 great officers of state being added to the whole, with
the Lord-chancellor as president ; its business was to prepare all questions, bills, and
other matters, to be brought before parliament ; and the clerical part of it being in strict
alliance with the king, while the civilian part was not a little influenced by his great
powers of patronage, it effectually prevented the introduction to parliament of any affair
which was unsuited to his views, and gave him very stringently all the powers of a real
veto. This institution seems to have been introduced by stealth, and never brought to a
regular plan ; and as to its date and early history, it baffles the research, or at least
defies the unanimity, of the best informed law writers. Yet " the Lords of the Articles "
were far from being wholly subservient to the Crown ; for they not only resisted the
efforts of Charles I. to make them mere tools of his despotism, but went freely down the
current which swept that infatuated monarch to his melancholy fate ; and, at the Revo-
lution, they waived all ceremony about getting from the fanatical idiot, James VII., a
formal deed of abdication, and promptly united in a summary declaration that he had
forfeited his crown. Before the Union there were four great officers of state, the Lord
High-chancellor, the High-treasurer, the Privy-seal, and the Secretary, — and four lesser
officers, the Lord Clerk-register, the Lord-advocate, the Treasurer-depute, and the
Justice-clerk, — all of whom sat, ex-officio, in parliament. The officers of state and the
law courts which now exist, will be found noticed in our article on Edinburgh. The
privy council of Scotland, previous to the Revolution, assumed inquisitorial powers, even
that of torture ; but it is now swamped in the privy council of Great Britain. Tho
Scottish nobility return from among their own number 16 peers to represent them in the
tipper house of the imperial parliament. Between the Union and the date of the Reform
bill, the freeholders of the counties, who amounted even at the last to only 3,211 in
number, returned to the House of Commons 30 members ; the city of Edinburgh
returned 1 ; and the other royal burghs, 6-5 in number, and classified into districts.
The Parliamentary Reform act in 1832, added, at the first impulse, 29,904 to the
aggregate constituency of the counties ; but it allowed them only the same number of
representatives as before, — erecting Kinross, Clackmannan, and some adjoining portions
of Perth and Stirling, into one electoral district ; conjoining Cromarty with Ross and
Nairn with Elgin, and assigning one member to each of the other counties. The same
act enfranchised various towns, or erected them into parliamentary burghs, increased the
burgh constituency from a pitiful number to upwards of 31,000, and raised the aggregate
number of representatives from 14 to 23. The total constituencies of the counties and
the burghs in each year, from the passing of the Reform act till 1839, are stated in the
following table.
Year.
Counties.
Burphs.
Total.
Year.
Counties.
Burghs.
Total.
1832,
33,115
3 1 ,332
64,447
1836,
43,350
40,905
84,255
1833,
34,976
32,750
67,726
18.37,
45,083
37,708
82,791
18.34,
36,823
36,162
72,985
1838,
46,480
36,381
82,861
1835,
41,658
39,667
81,325
1839,
47,209
35,312
82,521
INTRODUCTION. XXXV
The constituency of each county and burgh is stated in the article upon it in the alpha-
betical arrangement. Of the burghs, Edinburgh and Glasgow each return two mem-
bers ; and Aberdeen, Dundee, Paisley, Greenock, and Perth, each return one ; while
the remainder are distributed, in the following order, into 14 districts, each of which
returns one, — Ayr, Campbeltown, Inverary, Irvine, and Oban, — Dumfries, Annan,
Kirkcudbright, Lochmaben, and Sanquhar, — Elgin, Banff, Cullen, Inverury, Kintore,
and Peterhead, — Falkirk, Hamilton, Airdrie, Lanark, and Linlithgow, — Haddington,
North Berwick, Dunbar, Jedburgh, and Lauder, — Inverness, Forres, Fortrose, and
Nairn, — Kilmarnock, Port-Glasgow, Dumbarton, Kenfrew, and Rutherglen, — Kirk-
caldv, Burntisland, Dysart, and Kinghorn, — Leith, Musselburgh, and Portobello, — St.
Andrews, East-Anstruther, West-Anstrutker, Crail, Cupar. Kilrenny, and Pittenweem,
— Montrose, Arbroath, Brechin, Forfar, and Bervie, — Stirling, Culross, Dunfermline,
Inverkeithing, and Queensferry, — Wick, Cromarty, Dingwall, Dornoch, Tain, and
Kirkwall, — and "Wigton, Xew Galloway, Stranraer, and Whithorn. Some of the prin-
cipal towns, or towns more populous than many which rank as burghs, share in the fran-
chise only in common with the landward districts, and the villages of the counties in
which they lie. The chief are Dalkeith, Maybole, Hawick, Girvan, Alloa, Kelso, Crieff,
Dunse, Selkirk, Peebles, Bathgate, Tranent, Dunblane, Bothsay, Cupar- Angus, Salt-
coats, Dairy, and Comrie.
CRIME.
The number of public offences in Scotland was. in the vear 1834, 2,711 ; in 1836,
2,922 ; in 1837, 3,126 ; in 1838, 3,418; in 1839, 3,409; and in 1840, 3,872. Of those
in the year 1838, 787 were offences against the person, 724 by males, and 63 by females ;
577 were violent offences against property, 432 by males, and 145 by females ; 1,588 were
against property, but without violence, 1,078 by males, and 510 by females ; 57 were ma-
licious offences against property, 51 by males, and 6 by females ; 112 were forgeries and
offences against currency, 81 by males, and 31 by females ; and 297 were miscellaneous
offences, 243 by males, and 54 by females, — aggregately, 2,609 by males, and 809 by
females. Fifty-eight of the male offenders were aged 12 years, and under ; 36S aged
16 or above 12 ; 700 aged 21 or above 16 ; 73S aged 30 or above 21 ; 407 aged 40 or
above 30 ; 144 aged 50 or above 40 ; 59 aged 60 or above 50 ; 8 aged above 60 ; and
117 whose ages could not be ascertained. Of the 809 female offenders, there were 16
aged 12 years and under ; 66 aged 16 and above 12 ; 199 aged 21 and above 16 ; 268
aged 30 and above 21 ; 140 aged 40 and above 30 ; 67 aged 50 and above 40; 29
aged 60 and above 50 ; 8 aged above 60 ; and 16 whose ages could not be ascertained.
Of the 2,609 male offenders, 353 could neither read nor write ; 1,529 could read, or
read and write imperfectly ; 569 could read and write well ; 91 had received a superior
education ; and there were 67 whose education could not be ascertained. Of the 809
female offenders, 198 could neither read nor write ; 541 could read, or read and write
imperfectly : 61 could read and write well ; 2 had received a superior education ; and
there were 7 whose education could not be ascertained. Of the 3,418 offenders, 356
were discharged by the Lord-advocate and his deputies, 177 were discharged from other
causes, and there were tried 2,885, namely, by the High-court of Justiciary 309 ; by the
Circuit-court of Justiciary 560 ; by Sheriffs with a jury 733 ; by Sheriffs without a jury
646 ; by burgh-magistrates 558 ; by justices or other court 79. Of the 2,885 persons
tried, 56 were outlawed, 6 were found insane, 38 were found not guilty, 162 not proven,
and there were convicted 2,623, including 578 who were convicted under the aggrava-
tion of previous convictions, and 54 who were convicted of other offences at the same
trial. Of the 2,623 persons convicted, 3 received sentence of death, of whom 1 was
executed, and the punishment of 2 was commuted into transportation for life ; 6 were
sentenced to transportation for life, S3 for 14 years, 379 for 7 years, and 15 for other
periods ; 75 were sentenced to imprisonment (with, in some cases, whipping, fine, &c.,)
for 2 years or above 1 year, 245 for 1 year or above 6 months, 1,607 for 6 months or
under ; 195 were punished by fine ; 3 were discharged on sureties ; 12 received no
sentence. — Of the 3,872 persons committed for trial in 1840, 2,945 were convicted or
outlawed, and of these 4 received sentence of death for murder ; 520 were convicted
of assaults ; 296 of theft by housebreaking ; and 1,392 of acts of simple theft. The
xxxvi
INTRODUCTION.
following table shows the distribution and sex of the 3,872 persons committed for trial
in 1840.
Counties.
Aberdeen,
Argyle
Ayr
Banff,
Berwick, ....,
Bute,
Caithness,
Clackmannan,....
Dumbarton,
Dumfries,
Males.
70
85
53
30
17
12
17
31
53
66
Edinburgh 405
Elgin and Moray,.
File
Forlar,
Haddington,.
Inverness, ...
Kincardine,..
IE
240
263
32
60
16
Females.
44
17
8
7
9
3
1
5
31
12
199
6
66
104
12
16
5
Males.
Counties.
Kinross,.
Kirkcudbright
Lanark,
Linlithgow
Nain
Orkney and Zetland,....
Peebles,
Perth,
Renfrew, 487
Ross and Cromarty,.. 21
Roxburgh, 78
Selkirk 7
Stirling, 104
Sutherland 10
Wigton 37
35
365
55
6
40
12
133
Females.
1
7
164
6
6
6
34
166
3
13
3
37
i'i
Total 2,866 1,006
POPULATION.
The following table shows, for each of the counties, and for the whole kingdom, the
amount of the population of Scotland in the years 1755, 1791, 1801, 1811, 1821, and
1831, with the increase per cent, during each ten years succeeding 1801.
Counties.
Year 1755.
Year W01.
Year 1801.
Year 1811.
%
p.
£
a
Year 1821.
£
Year 1831.
ei.
c
115,595
60,553
58,519
37,574
24,114
7,125
21,402
8,824
13,311
41,913
90,438
28,687
81,333
68,784
28,697
61,481
24,434
5,944
21,205
81,781
16,438
6,993
38,751
8,847
115,5*5
26,735
46,798
31,520
4,968
39,761
21,147
16,466
120.870
72,891
74,694
38,671
29,734
1 1 ,200
22,976
9.738
18,229
52,466
123,093
27,285
88.013
89.296
29,230
70,559
26,576
6,181
26,793
126,354
17.271
7,692
44,435
8,045
125,149
63,062
54.902
32,713
5,233
47,373
23,187
21,088
123,082
71,859
84,306
35,807
30.621
11,791
22,609
10,858
20.710
54,597
122.954
26.705
93,743
99,127
29.986
74,292
26,349
6,725
29,211
146.099
17,844
8.257
46,824
8,735
126,366
78,056
35,343
33,682
5,070
50,825
23,117
22,918
135,075
85.585
103.954
36,668
30.779
12,033
23,419
12,010
24,189
62,960
148,607
28,108
101,272
107,264
31,164
78,336
27.439
7,245
33,684
191,752
19,451
8,251
46,153
9,935
135,093
92.596
68,853
37,230
5,889
58,174
23,629
26,891
10
19
23
2
1
o
4
11
17
15
21
8
8
4
5
4
8
15
31
9
U
7
19
10
11
16
14
2
17
155,387
97,316
127,299
43.561
33.385
13,797
30.238
13,263
27.317
70,878
191.514
31,162
114,556
113,430
35,127
90,157
29.118
7,762
38,903
244,387
22.685
9,006
53,124
10,046
139,050
112,175
68,828
40,892
6,637
65,376
23,840
33,240
Id
14
22
19
8
15
29
10
13
13
2!)
1!
13
6
13
15
6
7
15
27
17
9
15
1
3
21
);,
10
13
12
23
177,657
100,973
145,055
48,604
34,048
14.151
34,529
14,729
33,211
73,770
219,345
34,231
128,839
139,606
36,145
94,797
31,431
9,072
40,590
316,819
23,-,91
9,354
58,239
10,578
142,894
133,443
74 820
43,663
6,*33
72,621
25,518
36,258
14
4
14
12
2
3
14
U
22
~4
15
10
12
23
3
5
8
17
4
30
3
4
111
5
3
19
9
7
2
11
7
9
Avr
Banff,
Bute
Elgin,
File,
Orkney and Shetland,...
Peebles
Perth
The Totals,
1,255,663
1,514,999
1,599,068
1,805,688 14
2,093,456
16
2,365,114
13
Another table, and a brief one, gives a summary view of the classes of the population,
and the number of inhabited houses in 1821 and 1831, and of the value of assessed pro-
perty in 1815.
INTRODUCTION.
XXSV11
Year.
Males.
Females.
Total of
Persons.
FamilipB
chiefly
employed in
agriculture.
Families chiefly
employed in
trade, manu-
factures, or
handicraft.
All other
families not
comprised in
t lie two pre-
ceding- classes.
Inhabited
Houses.
Annual
value r)f the
real property,
as assessed
iu 1S15.
1821,
1831,
983.552
1,114,816
1,109.904
1,250,298
2,093,456
2,365,114.
130,699
126,591
190,264
207,259
126,997
168,151
341,474
369,393
£
6,65-2,655
We have just received a copy of the census of 1841, printed bj order of Government.
The following are the leading results : —
Counties.
Aberdeen,
Argyle
Ayr,
Banff,
Berwick,
Bute,
Caithness........
Clackmannan
Dumbarton,
Dumfries,
Edinburgh,
Elgin (Moray),
Fife
Forfar, -
Haddington,
Inverness,
Kincardine,
Kinross.........
Kirkcudbright, Stewartry of,...
Lanark,
Linlithgow
Nairn
Orkney and Shetland,..-
Peebles „
Perth,
Renfrew,
Ross and Cromarty
Roxburgh
Selkirk,..
Stirling,
Sutherland
Wigton
Barracks,
Persons, 18+1.
Males.
89.528
47.654
78,970
23,425
16,527
7.108
16.993
9,331
22.505
34.097
102,709
16.071
65,735
79,234
17,253
45,506
15,804
4,194
18,838
208,369
13,766
4.232
26,843
5,122
65,339
72,725
36,861
21,930
3,972
41,070
11,307
18,258
3,432
Females.
102,755
49.486
85,552
26,651
17,900
8,587
19.204
9,785
21,790
38.728
122,914
18.923
74,575
91,166
18.528
52,109
17,248
4,569
22.261
218,744
13.082
4.968
33,953
5,398
72,812
82,030
41,119
24,073
4,017
41,109
13.359
20,921
993
Total i 1,241,276 I 1,379,334
Totals.
192,283
97.140
164,522
50,076
34.427
15.695
36,197
19,116
44.295
72,825
225,623
34,994
140,310
170,400
35,781
97,615
33,052
8,763
41.099
427,113
26.848
9.218
60,796
10,520
138,151
154,755
78,980
46,003
7,989
82,179
24,666
39,179
4.425
2,620,610
Population
in
1831.
Increase or Decrease
per cent., 1841.
177.657
100.973
145,055
48,604
34,048
14.151
34,529
14.729
33,211
73,770
219,345
34,231
128,839
139,606
36,145
94,797
31.431
9.072
40,590
316.819
23,291
9,354
58,239
10,578
142,894
133,443
74,820
43,663
6,883
72,621
25,518
36,253
2.365,114
Increase.
134
3-
11
10-9
4-8
29-7
33-3
2-8
2-2
8-9
22'
3-
5-1
1*2
34-8
152
4:3
159
55
5-3
169
131
8-
10 8
Decrease.
3-9
13
f"
3.5
1.4
s"
3-4
3;4
Placed in their order, and beginning with those in which there is a decrease, the
counties stand as follows : —
Decrease
Per cent.
Argyle, 3'9
Kinross, 3*5
Perth 34
Sutherland 3-4
Nairn, 1-4
Dumfries 1'8
Haddington, 1"
Peebles '5
Increase
Per eeot.
Berwick, 1-1
Kirkcudbright 1"2
Elgin 2 2
Edinburgh 2-8
Inverness 3-
Banff, 3-
Orkney,.. 4"3
Caithness, 4-8
Increase
Per cent.
Kincardine 5-1
Roxburgh 5-3
Ross & Cromarty,. 5*5
Wigtoi 8-
Aberdeei 8-2
Fife 8-9
Bute 10-9
Stirling, 13-1
Increase
Per cent.
Ayr 134
Linlithgow 15 2
Renfrew, 15-9
Selkirk 16-9
Forfar 22-
Clackmannan 29-7
Dumbarton, 33-3
Lanark 34-8
The average increase for all Scotland being 11-1 percent., it appears that the increase
is above the average in 10 counties, and below it in 22, including those in which there
is a positive diminution.
The increase in the population of England and Wales has been greater than in that
of Scotland, at every decennial period since the first census was taken ; but the differ-
ence is greater in the last ten years than in any preceding period. The number of
houses building affords one of the best criterions of a country's progress in wealth and
XXXV111 INTRODUCTION.
industry. At the same time it must be kept in mind, that we get merely the number
building in one particular year out of the ten, and not the average number building
yearly. In the first census this element was wanting, in the others it stands thus : —
Houses Building.
1811. 1881. 1831. 1841.
England, 15,189 18,289 23,462 25,882
Wales, 1,019 985 1,297 1,769
16,208 19,274 24,759 27,651
Scotland, 2,341 2,405 2,568 2,760
RELIGION.
The National Established church of Scotland is strictly Presbyterian. Its parochial
divisions, sanctioned by the civil authority, embracing the whole of Scotland, and fur-
nished by law with churches and temporalities, are 919. But included in these, which
bear the distinctive name of quoad civilia parishes, there are territories annexed eccle-
siastically, or by authority of the General Assembly and of presbyteries, to 40 Govern-
ment churches, an account of which is given in our article on the Highlands, and to
chapels built by voluntary subscription, the number of which amounted, in 1S39, to
180 ; and these territories, except in the case of a very few of the chapelries, are called
quoad sacra parishes, and — though destitute both of civil sanction and of temporalities —
are under the same ecclesiastical government, and hold the same relation to the church
courts, as the ecclesiastico-civil divisions. Each parish, whether quoad civilia or quoad
sacra, is governed by a kirk-session, consisting of the minister, and one or more lay '
elders. Several parishes send each its minister and a ruling elder to form a presbytery,
and are, on a common footing, under its authority. Several presbyteries contribute or
amass all their members to form a synod, and are individually subject to its review or
revision of their proceedings. All the presbyteries, in concert with the royal burghs,
the four universities, and the Crown, elect representatives, who jointly constitute the
General Assembly. This is the supreme court ; and will be found noticed in our article
on Edinburgh. The synods, 16 in number, are exceedingly dissimilar in the extent of
their territory, and the amount of their population ; and the presbyteries, 82 in number,
have also a very various extent, and are distributed among the synods in groups of from
2 to 8. — The synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, the first on the list, comprehends all the
counties of Linlithgow, Haddington, and Peebles, all the county of Edinburgh, except
one parish, and small parts of the counties of Stirling and Lanark ; it contained, in 1831,
a population of 313,733 ; and, in 1839, it had 108 quoad civilia parishes, 27 chapelries,
and 143 ministers. Its presbyteries are Edinburgh, comprehending the metropolis and
its vicinity, with 26 quoad civilia, and 17 quoad sacra parishes, and a population, in 1831,
of 180,392 ; Linlithgow, comprehending Linlithgowshire, and a small part of Stirling-
shire, with 19 quoad civilia, and 2 quoad sacra parishes, and a population of 45,452 ;
Biggar, comprising parts of Lanarkshire and Peebles-shire, with 11 quoad civilia parishes,
and a population of 6,862 ; Peebles, comprising most of Peebles-shire, with 12 quoad
civilia parishes, and a population of 9,373 ; Dalkeith, chiefly in Edinburghshire, and
partly in Haddingtonshire, with 16 quoad civilia,- and 2 quoad sacra parishes, and a popu-
lation of 35,133; Haddington, comprising the major part of Haddingtonshire, with 15
quoad civilia, and 2 quoad sacra parishes, and a population of 24,049 ; and Dunbar, com-
prising the south-east of Haddingtonshire, and a parish in Berwickshire, and distributed
into 9 quoad civilia parishes, with a population of 12,472. — The synod of Merse and
Teviotdale comprehends nearly all Berwickshire, and most of Roxburghshire ; contained,
in 1831, a population of 82,366 ; and, in 1839, had 66 parishes, 5 chapelries, and 71
ministers. Its presbyteries are Dunse, in the Merse and Lainmermoor, with 10 quoad
civilia parishes, and a population of 9,391 ; Chirnside, in the Merse, with 12 parishes
quoad civilia, and 1 quoad sacra, and a population of 14,975 ; Kelso, in the Merse, and
the east of Roxburghshire, with 10 parishes quoad civilia, and 1 quoad sacra, and a popu-
lation of 12,264 ; Jedburgh, in Teviotdale, with 14 quoad civilia parishes, 2 subordinate
chapelries, and a population of 20,978 ; Lauder, in Lauderdale, Lainmermoor, and the
southern corner of Edinburghshire, with 9 quoad civilia parishes, and a population of
9,964; and Selkirk, in Selkirkshire, and the northern part of Roxburghshire, with 11
quoad civilia parishes, and a population of 14,788. — The synod of Dumfries comprehends
INTRODUCTION. XXXIX
all Dumfries-shire, Liddesdale, and the eastern part of Kirkcudbrightshire ; contained,
in 1831, a population of 91,287 ; and, in 1839, had 55 parishes, 4 chapelries, and 59
ministers. Its presbyteries are Lochmaben, in central and northern Annandale, with 13
quoad civilia parishes, and a population of 16,016 ; Langholm, in Eskdale and Liddes-
dale, with 7 quoad civilia parishes, and a population of 10,173 ; Annan, in southern
Annandale, with 8 quoad civilia, and 2 quoad sacra parishes, and a population of 15,672 ;
Dumfries, in southern Nithsdale and eastern Kirkcudbrightshire, with 18 parishes quoad
civilia, and 2 quoad sacra, and a population of 34,862 ; and Penpont, in central and
northern Nithsdale, with 9 parishes, and a population of 14,564. — The synod of Gallo-
way comprehends all Wigtonshire, all the central and the western divisions of Kirkcud-
brightshire, and southern corner of Ayrshire ; contained, in 1831, a population of 65,276 ;
and, in 1839, had 37 parishes, all quoad civilia, and 37 ministers. Its presbyteries are
Stranraer, in the western half of Wigtonshire, and the southern corner of Ayrshire, with
11 parishes, and a population of 24,164; Wigton, in the eastern half of Wigtonshire,
and a small part of Kirkcudbrightshire, with 10 parishes, and a population of 19,446 ;
and Kirkcudbright, all in Kirkcudbrightshire, with 16 parishes, and a population of
21,666. — The synod of Glasgow and Ayr comprehends all the counties of Renfrew and
Dumbarton, nearly all those of Lanark and Ayr, and a part of that of Stirling ; con-
tained, in 1831, a population of 635,011 ; and, in 1839, had 130 parishes, 72 chapelries,
and 205 ministers. Its presbyteries are Ayr, in Kyle and most part of Carrick, with 28
quoad civilia, and 3 quoad sacra parishes, and a population of 77,884 ; Irvine, in Cun-
ningham, with 16 quoad civilia, and 4 quoad sacra parishes, and a population of 56,226 ;
Paisley in eastern Renfrewshire, with 12 quoad civilia, and 6 quoad sacra parishes, and
a population of 90,721 ; Greenock, in western Renfrewshire, and a small part of Cun-
ningham, and a population of 41,179 ; Hamilton, in central Lanarkshire, with 15 quoad
civilia, and 8 quoad sacra parishes, and a population of 64,745 ; Lanark, in northern
Lanarkshire, with 11 quoad civilia parishes, and a population of 29,595 ; Dumbarton, in
the main body of Dumbartonshire, and part of Stirlingshire, with 17 parishes quoad
civilia, and 1 quoad sacra, and a population of 34,287 ; and Glasgow, in southern Lan-
arkshire, the detached part of Dumbartonshire, and small parts of Stirlingshire and
Renfrewshire, with 21 quoad civilia, and 31 quoad sacra parishes, and a population of
240,374. — The synod of Argyle comprehends Buteshire, and continental and insular
Argyleshire ; contained, in 1831, a population of 109,348 ; and, in 1839, had 39 parishes,
12 parliament churches, 4 chapelries, and 57 ministers. Its presbyteries are Inverary,
in continental Argyleshire, with 8 quoad civilia parishes, and a population of 13,335 ;
Dunoon, the eastern part of Argyleshire, and the northern isles of Buteshire, with 8
quoad civilia, and 2 quoad sacra parishes, and a population of 13,712 ; Kintyre, in Arran,
Kintyre and Gigha, with 9 quoad civilia parishes, and a population of 26,959 ; Isla and
Jura, in the southern Hebrides, with 4 quoad civilia parishes, and 3 parliamentary
churches, and a population of 17,197 ; Lorn, partly in the Hebrides, but chiefly in the
western part of continental Argyleshire, with 7 quoad civilia parishes, 2 parliamentary
churches, and 1 chapelry, and a population of 15,348 ; and Mull, chiefly in the Mull
group of the Hebrides and in Morvern, with 6 parishes and 7 parliamentary churches,
and a population of 22,797. — The synod of Perth and Stirling comprehends nearly all
Perthshire and Clackmannanshire, parts of Stirlingshire and Kinross-shire ; contained,
in 1831, a population of 178,657 ; and, in 1839, had 80 parishes, 3 parliamentary
churches, 19 chapelries, and 107 ministers. Its presbyteries are Dunkeld, in the north-
east part of Perthshire, with 12 parishes and 1 chapelry, and a population of 22,130 ;
Weem, in the north-east part of Perthshire, with 6 parishes, 3 parliamentary churches,
1 chapelry, and a population of 17,132 ; Perth, in the central part of Perthshire, with
24 quoad civilia, and 3 quoad sacra parishes, and a population of 45,237 ; Auchterarder,
in the valley and vicinity of Strathearn, and in the western part of Kinross-shire, with 15
quoad civilia, and 3 quoad sacra parishes, and a population of 25,339 ; Stirling, in Clack-
mannanshire, and part of Stirlingshire, with 13 quoad civilia, and 2 quoad sacra parishes,
and a population of 44,603 ; and Dunblane, in the junction district of the counties of
Perth, Stirling, and Clackmannan, with 12 quoad civilia, and 3 quoad sacra parishes, and
a population of 24,213. — The synod of Fife comprehends all Fifeshire, the greater part
of Kinross-shire, and a small part of Perthshire ; contained, in 1831, a population of
138,124 ; and, in 1839, had 67 quoad civilia, and 10 quoad sacra parishes, and 81 minis-
ters. Its presbyteries are Dunfermline, in the south-west of Fifeshire, and in parts of
xl INTRODUCTION.
Perthshire and Kinross-shire, with 12 parishes quoad civilia, and 1 quoad sacra, and a
population of 36,097 ; Kirkcaldy, in the south-east of Fifeshire, and part of Kinross-
shire, -with 15 quoad civilia, and 4 quoad sacra parishes, and a population of 43,314;
Cupar, in the north-west of Fifeshire, with 20 quoad civilia .parishes, and a population of
29,832 ; and St. Andrews, in the north-east of Fifeshire, with 20 parishes quoad civilia,
and 1 quoad sacra, and a population of 28,881." — The synod of Angus and Mearns com-
prehends all Forfarshire, the greater part of Kincardineshire, and a small part of Perth-
shire ; contained, in 1831, a population of 1(54,017 ; and, in 1839, had 80 quoad civilia,
and 17 quoad sacra .parishes, and 99 ministers. Its presbyteries are Meigle, in the west
of Forfarshire, and part of Perthshire, with 13 parishes, and a population of 1-6,345 ;
Forfar, in the central district of Forfarshire, with 11 quoad civilia, and 2 quoad sacra
parishes, and a population of 24,225 ; Dundee-, in the southern district of Forfarshire,
and a small. part of Perthshire, with 18 quoad civilia, and 6 quoad sacra parishes, and a
population of 60,510 ; Brechin, in the north of Forfarshire, with 14 quoad civilia, and 2
quoad sacra parishes, and a. population of 27,057 ; Arbroath, in the east of Forfarshire,
with 11 quoad civilia, and 5 quoad sacra parishes, and a population of 23,270 ; and For-
doun, in Kincardineshire, with 13 quoad civilia parishes, and a population of 22,601.—
The synod of Aberdeen comprehends nearly all Aberdeenshire, most part of Banffshire,
and a considerable part of Kincardineshire ; contained, in 1831, a population of 206,226 ;
and, in 1839, had 101 quoad civilia, and 17 quoad sacra parishes, and 119 ministers. Its
presbyteries are Aberdeen, in the south-east of Aberdeenshire, and part of Kincardine-
shire, with 20 quoad civilia, and 8 quoad sacra parishes, and a population of 75,524;
Kincardine-O'Neil, in the south-west of Aberdeenshire, and part of Kincardineshire,
with 14 quoad civilia parishes, and a population of 18,420 ; Alford, in the west of Aber-
deenshire, and part of Banffshire, with 13 parishes, and a population of 11,47-1 ; Garioch,
in the central district of Aberdeenshire, with 15 parishes, and a population of 15,787 ;
Ellon, in the east of Aberdeenshire, with 8 parishes, and a population of 12,831 ; Deer,
in the north-east of Aberdeenshire, with 14 quoad civilia, and 3 quoad sacra parishes, and
a population of 32,276 ; Turriff, in the north-west of Aberdeenshire, and the north-east
■of Banffshire, with 11 parishes, and a population of 21,775 ; and Fordyce, in the north
of Banffshire, with 7 quoad civilia, and 3 quoad sacra parishes, and a population of
18, 136. >— The synod of Moray comprehends all Elginshire and Nairnshire, considerable
parts of Inverness-shire and Banffshire, and a small part of Aberdeenshire ; contained,
in 1831, a population of 105,610 ; and, in 1839, had 51 quoad civilia parishes, 2 parlia-
mentary churches, 3 chapelries, and 59 ministers. Its presbyteries are Strathbogie, in
-the counties of Elgin, Banff, and Aberdeen, with 12 parishes, and a population of
23,814 ; Abernethy, in the counties of Banff, Elgin, and Inverness, with 6 parishes, and
3 parliamentary churches, and a population of 12,134 ; Aberlour, in Banffshire and
Elginshire, with-5. parishes, and a population of 8,515 ; Forres, in the west of Elgin-
shire, with 6 parishes, and a population of 9,899 ; Elgin, in the north-east of Elginshire,
with 9 parishes, and a. population of 15,790 ; Inverness, in the north-east of Inverness-
shire, and the adjacent part of Nairnshire, with 9 quoad civilia, and 2 quoad sacra
parishes, and a population of 25,1.93 ; and Nairn, in the centre and north of Nairnshire,
and the adjacent part of Inverness-shire, with 6 parishes, and a population of 10,265.—
The synod of Ross comprehends all Cromartyshire, most part of continental Ross-shire,
and small :parts of Inverness-shire and Nairnshire ; contained, in 1831, a population of
45,803 ; and, in 1839, had 23 .parishes, 3 parliamentary churches, 1 chapelry, and 27
ministers. Its presbyteries are Chanonby, in the peninsula between the Beauly and the
Cromarty friths, with 6 parishes, 1 chapel, and a population of 11,744 ; Dingwall, in
southern Ross-shire, and parts of Inverness and Nairn, with 8 parishes, 2 parliamentary
churches, and a population of 17,762 ; and Tain, in northern Ross-shire, and part of
Cromarty, with 9 parishes, 1 parliamentary church, and a population of 16,297.— The
synod of Sutherland and Caithness is commensurate with its cognominal counties ; con-
tained, in 1831, a population of 60,057 ; and, in 1839, had 23 parishes, 5 parliamentary
churches, 1 chapelry, and 29 ministers. Its presbyteries are -Dornoch, in southern
Sutherlandshire, with 9 parishes, 1 parliamentary church, and a population of 17,284 ;
Tongue, in northern Sutherlandshire, with 4 parishes, 2 parliamentary churches, and a
population of 7,221 ; and Caithness, in the cognominal county, with 10 parishes, 2 par-
liamentary churches, 1 chapel, and a population of 35,542. — The synod of Glenelg com-
prehends the Skye and Long Island groups of the Hebrides, and parts of the mainland
INTRODUCTION.
xli
of Ross-shire and Inverness-shire ; contained, in 1831, a population of 91,584 ; and, in
1839, had 29 parishes, 11 parliamentary churches, and 40 ministers. Its presbyteries
are Lochcarron, on the mainland, with 8 parishes, 4 parliamentary churches, and a
population of 21,350 ; Abertarff, in the west of continental Inverness-shire, with 5
parishes, 1 parliamentary church, and a population of 14,402 ; Skye, in the Skye islands,
with 8 parishes, 2 parliamentary churches, and a population of 23,801 ; Uist, in the
southern district of Long Island, with 4 parishes, 2 parliamentary churches, and a popu-
lation of 17,490 ; and Lewis, in the northern district of Long Island, with 4 parishes, 2
parliamentary churches, and a population of 14,541. — The synod of Orkney is commen-
surate with the Orkney Islands ; contained, in 1831, a population of 26,716 ; and, in
1839, had 18 parishes, 2 parliamentary churches, and 21 ministers. Its presbyteries are
Kirkwall, -in the south-eastern district of Orkney, with 6 parishes, 1 parliamentary
church, and a population of 8,650 ; Cairston, in the south-western district of Orkney,
with 7 parishes, and a population of 10,149 ; and North Isles, in the northern district
of Orkney, with 6 parishes, 1 parliamentary church, and a population of 7,917. — The
synod of Shetland is commensurate with the Shetland Islands ; contained, in 1831, a
population of 29,392 ; and, in 1839, had 12 parishes, 2 parliamentary churches, and 14
ministers. Its presbyteries are Lerwick, in the south, with 6 parishes, 2 parliamentary
churches, and a population of 16,432 ; and JBurravoe, in the north, with 6 parishes, and
a population of 12,960.
The religious body next in bulk to the Established Church, is the church of the
United Secession. Its government is strictly presbyterian ; and its supreme court,
called the United Associate Synod, consists of the minister or ministers and an elder
of each congregation. The presbyteries are constituted in the same way as the synod ;
and, in 1840, they were Aberdeen, with 8 congregations ; Annan and -Carlisle, with 14,
7 of which are in England ; Coldstream and Berwick, with 21, only 14 of which are in
Scotland ; Cupar, with 19 ; Dumfries, with 12 ; Dunfermline, with 13 ; Edinburgh,
with 38 ; Elgin, with 15 ; Forfar, with 20 ; Glasgow, with 47, 1 of which is in Liver-
pool ; Kilmarnock, with 24 ; Kirkcaldy, with 8 ; Lanark, with 10 ; Lancashire, London,
and Newcastle, with respectively 6, 5, and 19, all of which are in England; Orkney,
with 11 ; Perth, with 25 ; Selkirk, with 12 ; Stewartfield, with 11 ; Stirling and Fal-
kirk, with 22 ; and Wigton, with 8. — The Relief synod is constituted similarly to the
United Associate. Its presbyteries, in 1840, were Dumfries, with 8 congregations ;
Dundee, with 6 ; Dysart, with 11 ; Edinburgh, with 13 ; Glasgow, with 20 ; Hamilton,
with 13 ; Kelso, with 15, 6 of which are out of Scotland ; Newton- Stewart, with 4 ;
Paisley, with 12 ; Perth, with 7 ; and St. Ninians, with 7. — The Reformed Presbyte-
rian church is governed, like each of the two former bodies, by a synod. Its presbyte-
ries, in 1840, were Edinburgh, with 7 congregations ; Glasgow, with -6 ; Kilmarnock,
with 6 ; Dumfries, with 6 ; Newton- Stewart, with 4; and Paisley, with 6. — The Asso-
ciate synod of Original Seceders comprehended, in 1840, the presbyteries of Aberdeen,
with 6 congregations-; Ayr, with 7 ; Edinburgh, with 13 ; and Perth, with 8. — The
Original Burgher Associate Synod, — a majority of which had just joined the Established
church, — comprehended, in 1840, the presbyteries of Edinburgh, with 4 congregations ;
Glasgow, with 5 ; and Perth and Dunfermline, with 2. — The congregations of the Inde-
pendents, understood to be in connexion with the Congregational Union of Scotland, an
association of the Independent churches for purposes of missionary effort and mutual
recognition, amounted, in 1840, to 98 ; of which 7 were in the Orkney and the Shetland
Islands ; 26 in the counties north of the Aberdeen Dee ; 20 in the counties of Kincar-
dine, Forfar, Perth, Fife, Kinross, and Clackmannan ; 12 in the Lothians and Stirling-
shire ; and 33 in the south-western and southern counties. — The Scottish Episcopal
communion comprehended, in 1840, the dioceses of Edinburgh, with 13 congregations ;
Glasgow, with 12 ; Aberdeen, with 20 ; Moray, Ross, and Argyle, with 15; Dunkeld,
Dunblane, and Fife, with 9 ; and Brechin, with 9. The number of the clergy, including
the bishops, was 88. — The Roman Catholic clergy in Scotland, in 1840, amounted to 5
bishops and 68 priests, were located in 49 places, and distributed into three districts, —
the eastern, with 2 bishops and 14 priests for its clergy, and Edinburgh for its centre
of influence,— the western, with 2 bishops and 29 priests for its clergy, and Glasgow for
its episcopal seat, — and the northern, with 1 bishop and 25 priests for its clergy, and
Aberdeen as its ecclesiastical metropolis.
The Reports of a Commission, who were appointed to inquire into the opportunities of
xlii
INTRODUCTION.
religious worship, the means of religious instruction, and the pastoral superintendence
afforded to the people of Scotland, who made inquiries by correspondence and research
into various matters affecting every parish in the country, and who made personal and
minute investigation in all the parishes in which any deficiency of ecclesiastical appli-
ances was alleged to exist, — the Reports of this Commission, published in 1837 and 1838,
and extending to 9 folio volumes, have enabled us to intersperse through every part of the
alphabetical arrangement important information in ecclesiastical statistics, and now fur-
nish us with materials for a rapid and luminous summary view of the ecclesiastical con-
dition of the country. The parishes personally visited, and specially reported on by the
Commissioners, were 552 in number ; and, except in the broad feature of alleged defi-
ciency in the amount of their moral mechanism, they may be regarded as fairly repre-
senting the whole country. — The first and the second Reports are so almost exclusively
occupied with matter respecting Edinburgh, Leith, and Glasgow, that to borrow from
them here would only be to repeat what is stated in our articles on these towns. — The
fourth Report is devoted to 74 parishes in the Highlands and Islands, 22 of which are in
the synod of Argyle, 26 in that of Glenelg, 19 in that of Sutherland and Caithness, and
7 in that of Ross. Ecclesiastical surveys of these parishes exhibited their population to
be about 180,538, and classified them into about 159,150 churchmen, 14,680 dissenters,
and 146 persons not known to belong to any religious denomination. Alleged deficiency
in their means of pastoral instruction was ascribed in most instances to various causes, —
in 10, to excess of population ; in 61, to excess of territory ; in 61, to obstructed access ;
in 10, to inconvenient distribution of territory ; in 12, to a minister having to officiate
in more than one church ; in 5, to the church's occupying an inconvenient site ; in 28,
to its being of incompetent size ; in 5, to its being in a ruinous condition ; in 3, to its
unequal allotment of sittings ; in 4, to the exaction of seat-rents ; and in 3, to the want
of endowments. Sittings in the parish churches amounted to 40,672, and in dissenting
churches to 8,078, — in all, 48,750. In some of the parishes, religious instruction, addi-
tional to that connected with the regular ministry, is afforded by means of missionaries,
catechists, Sunday schools, and week-day religious schools.- — The fifth Report is devoted
to 103 parishes in the northern counties ; 5 of which are in the synod of Glenelg, 29 in
that of Moray, 55 in that of Aberdeen, and 14 in that of Angus and Mearns. Their
ecclesiastically stated population consisted of about 210,137 churchmen, about 41,959
dissenters, and about 6,520 nondescripts, — in all, 284,727 persons. Sittings in the
Establishment, about 86,304 ; in dissenting churches, about 51,300. Alleged deficiency
was ascribed in 34 instances, to excess of population ; in 44, to excess of territory ; in
30, to obstructed access ; in 24, to inconvenience in the form of parishes ; in 4, to plu-
rality in the churches of a minister ; in 9, to a church's inconvenience of site ; in 31, to
its inadequacy of size ; in 23, to its unequal allotment of sittings ; in 6, to the badness
of its condition ; in 24, to the exaction of seat-rents ; and in 24, to the want of endow-
ments.— The sixth Report treats of 99 parishes, in the counties of Forfar, Perth, Stir-
ling, and Fife ; 27 of which are in the synod of Angus and Mearns, 50 in that of Perth
and Stirling, and 22 in that of Fife. Population, about 306,563 ; consisting of about
180,341 churchmen, about 72,297 dissenters, and about 10,936 nondescripts. Sittings
in the Establishment, about 84,679 ; in dissenting churches, about 72,892. Alleged
deficiency was ascribed, in 29 instances, to excess of population ; in 30, to excess of
parochial territory ; in 20, to obstructed access ; in 24, to inconvenience in the form of
parishes ; in 5, to plurality of a minister's churches ; in 15, to a church's inconvenience
of site ; in 39, to its inadequacy of accommodation ; in 12, to the unequal allotment of
its sittings ; in 3, to the badness of its condition ; in 25, to the exaction of seat-rents ;
and in 26, to the want of endowments. — The seventh Report treats of 99 parishes in the
Lothians, and the southern counties ; 29 of which are in the synod of Lothian and
Tweeddale, 23 in that of Merse and Teviotdale, 15 in that of Dumfries, 19 in that of
Galloway, and 13 in that of Glasgow and Ayr. Ecclesiastically stated population, about
167,363 churchmen, about 64,066 dissenters, and about 6,738 nondescripts, — in all,
about 255,874. Sittings in the Establishment, about 67,319 ; in dissenting churches,
about 57,812. Alleged deficiency was ascribed, in 32 instances, to excess of population ;
in 34, to largeness of territory ; in 9, to obstructed access ; iu 18, to inconvenience in
the form of parishes ; in 2, to a minister's plurality of churches ; in 11, to a church's
inconvenience of site ; in 61, to its inadequacy of accommodation ; in 55, to the unequal
allotment of its sittings ; in 17, to the badness of its condition ; in 3, to the exaction of
INTRODUCTION. xllH
seat-rents ; and in 20, to the want of endowments. — The eighth Report is devoted to 106
parishes, in the counties of Ayr, Lanark, Renfrew, Dumbarton, Argyle, and Orkney ;
65 of which are in the synod of Glasgow and Ayr, 18 in that of Argyle, 11 in that of
Orkney, and 12 in that of Shetland. Population, about 192,864 churchmen, 94,772
dissenters, and 16,459 nondescripts, — in all, about 376,452. Sittings in the Establish-
ment, about 98,746 ; in dissenting churches, about 83,549. Alleged deficiency was
ascribed, in 55 instances, to excess of population ; in 61, to excess of territory ; in 32, to
obstructed access ; in 17, to inconvenience in the form of parishes ; in 27, to a minister's
plurality of churches ; in 10, to a church's inconvenience of site ; in 60, to its inadequacy
of accommodation ; in 19, to the unequal allotment of its sittings ; in 8, to the badness
of its condition ; in 30, to the exaction of seat-rents ; and in 31, to the want of endow-
ments.— The third Report relates wholly to teinds. Scottish teinds are all predial, and
are divided into parsonage or the greater teinds, consisting of the tithe of victual or
grain, and vicarage or the lesser teinds, consisting of the tithe of grass, flax, hemp,
butter, cattle, eggs, and some other articles. The tithes of fish are, in a few places,
exigible ; but, along with all the vicarage teinds, they are so inconsiderable as not to be
included in the Commissioners' arithmetical calculations. The parsonage teinds are
held by the Crown, by universities, by pious foundations, by lay titulars, or by the pro-
prietors of the lands from which they are due ; and, with the limitation that those of one
parish cannot, to any amount, be transferred to another parish, they are, in all cases,
exigible as payment of the stipends which have been provided by law, or which may, in
future, be awarded by the court of teinds. Those now belonging to the Crown are in
value £38,051 0s. 4d., which formerly belonged to the bishops ; £5,323 3s. lid., which
formerly belonged to the chapel royal ; and £2,523 5s. 10d., which formerly belonged to
the abbacy of Dunfermline, — in all, £45,897 10s. Id. Of this sum, £30,155 17s.
8d., are appropriated to ministers' stipends. Of the unappropriated amount, the free
yearly surplus, after necessary deductions, is only £10,182 4s. 8d., and the actual
receipt, in consequence of mismanagement, is a pitiful trifle. Teinds belonging to other
parties than the Crown, amount to £281,384 14s. Of this sum, £146,942, are appro-
priated to ministers' stipends, leaving £138,186 17s. 6d. unappropriated. In 872
parishes, payment of the stipends is made from the teinds ; in each of 196 of these, the
teinds are less in value than £158 6s. 8d. ; and in each of 206, while amounting to
£158 6s. 8d. and upwards, they are so low as to have been all appropriated. — The ninth
and last Report, relates to revenues and endowments. In those parishes whose teinds
are less in value than £158 6s. 8d., the stipend is raised to that amount or upwards, by
payment from the exchequer. In quoad civilia burgh parishes, stipend is for the most
part paid from the burgh funds ; and in Edinburgh, and a few other towns, it is paid
from funds specially levied under act of parliament. In quoad sacra parliamentary
parishes, the stipend is a fixed allowance for each of £120 from the exchequer ; and in
other quoad sacra parishes, it is paid chiefly from seat-rents, and, in some instances,
partly from the church-door collections. Except in a few peculiar cases, the ministers
of quoad civilia parishes, either altogether or parti j landward, are entitled to manses and
glebes ; and, in a few instances, they receive a money allowance in lieu of one or both.
In parishes which, while the teinds are low, confer no right to either manse or glebe, an
allowance is made from the exchequer, to raise the stipend to £200 ; and in those which,
in the circumstances, confer a right only to a manse, or to a glebe, but not to both, an
allowance from the same source makes the stipend £180. Ministers of the parliamen-
tary churches are entitled by law each to a house and half-an-acre of garden ground ;
and, in the majority of instances, they have been provided by the heritors with glebes.
In numerous parishes, the ministers have rights of grazing, or cutting turf and peats,
and several other privileges, of aggregately little value. In quoad civilia country parishes,
the area of the churches belongs to the heritors, and is generally divided by them among
the tenants and cottagers on their estates ; and when a surplus, or disposable number,
of the seats is let, the proceeds are, in some instances, appropriated by the heritors for
their private use, and, in others, given to the poor. In quoad civilia burgh parishes,
seat-rents are, in general, exacted for all, or nearly all, the pews ; and are either em-
ployed for stipend, or drawn as common burgh revenue. In the parliamentary churches,
seat-rents were originally designed to be generally exigible, and to be applied in main-
taining the repair of the churches and manses ; but they are, in every case, collected
with difficulty, and, in some instances, have been entirely abandoned. In other quoad
x]\v INTRODUCTION.
sacra churches, and in all but a very small number of the churches of the dissenters,
seat-rents are generally, and, for the most part, easily levied, and are employed in pay-
ment of stipend, of the interest and principal of debt, and of other necessary congrega-
tional expenses. Ordinary collections, or those made every Sabbath, at the doors of the
Establishment's places of ■worship, are, in the case of most of the quoad civilia parishes,
wholly applied, after the deduction of certain small parochial charges, to the relief of
the poor ; and, in the case of the quoad sacra parishes, and, by consent of the heritors,
in the case of a few of the quoad civilia, they are applied in the same manner as the
seat-rents. Extraordinary collections, or those made only at considerable intervals, and
on special occasions, are known but partially in the Establishment, and more generally
among the dissenters ; and are applied, for the most part, to missionary, educational,
and philanthropic, and, in a majority of instances, to ultra-congregational purposes.—
The number of ministers of the Establishment, as exhibited in the Commissioners'
Report, excludes all missionaries, and also, with one exception, all assistants, and
amounts to 1,072. The aggregate amount of their stipends, on an average of 7 years
preceding 1836, is, from parson teinds, £170,393 10s. 3d., — from vicarage teinds, so far
as they are paid in money, or have been valued, £712 19s. 8d., — and from other
sources, £51,345 5s. 0d., — making a total of £231,451 4s. lid. The aggregate annual
value of glebes, exclusive of a few not valued by the ministers, is £19,168 15s. 3d. The
amount of seat-rents in all the Establishment's places of worship, during the year 1835,
was £38,901 9s. 7d. ; and of the ordinary and the extraordinary collections, so far as
ascertained for the same year, respectively £44,394 2s. 3d., and £13,726 8s. 9d.
A satisfactory outline of the ecclesiastical history of Scotland, would occupy twenty or
fifty times more space than we can spare. Its greatest elements would be critical remark
on the date of the introduction of Christianity to Scotland ; a view — partly given in
our article on Icolmkill — of the character, discipline, and history of the Culdees ; an
examination of the rise and expansion of diocesan episcopacy ; an exhibition of the
inroads, methods of conquest, early condition, successive development, history, institu-
tions, and corruptions of Romanism ; a careful tracery of the multitudinous and engross-
ing events and changes of the Reformation, and of the struggles which presbyterianism
maintained against popery, and especially against protestant prelacy, till the Revolution ;
and a rapid sketch of the rise and early history of each of the Scottish dissenting sects.
Much of the most interesting parts of each of these elements, excepting the first, will be
found interspersed with the body of our work ; and wherever it occurs, will be clearly
understood without the aid of connecting links of narrative. Very frequently, however,
in connexion with the monastic class of the Romish institutions, allusions and names
occur which, as the institutions were in some instances peculiar to Scotland, will not be
intelligible except with the aid of some explanatory statements. — The conventual orders,
or different bodies of the regular clergy of the Romish church in Scotland, were very
various, and were early introduced. The friars, while they lived in convents, were pro-
fessed strolling mendicants ; and, in consequence of their astutely watching every oppor-
tunity of visiting the sick in their clerical character, and sedulously improving it, in their
mendicant capacity, for drawing largesses and bequests from the wealthy, they amassed
an incredible amount of property, and eventually made themselves the envy of the nobi-
lity, who could not cope with them in opulence and influence, — of the secular or paro-
chial clergy, who were ostensibly provided for, and saw the friars superseding them, —
and of the monks, or second great class of the conventual orders, who were forbidden, by
most of their rules, to go out of their monasteries, and could receive only such donations
as excessive fanatics carried to their cells. Yet all the other great classes — which were
canons-regular, monks, nuns, and canons-secular, — made acquisitions of property which
were exceedingly, and even monstrously great, in their circumstances, and which ap-
peared moderate only when compared with those of the friars. — The canons-regular of
St. Augustine had 28 monasteries in Scotland, and were first established at Scone, in
the year 1114, by Atewalpus, prior of St. Oswald of Hostel, in Yorkshire, and introduced
at the desire of Alexander I. — The canons-regular of St. Anthony, wore neither an
almuce nor a rochet, both of which were used by the other canons-regular, and they
called their houses hospitals, and their governors preceptors ; but they had in Scotland
only one monastery, noticed in our article on Leith. — The red friars pretended to be
canons-regular, but were denied the title by many of their adversaries ; and they vari-
ously bore the names of Matharines, from their house at Paris, which was dedicated to
INTRODUCTION. xlv
St. Matharine, of Trinity friars, and of friars ' De Redemptione Captivorum,' from their
professing to redeem Christian captives from the Turks. Their houses were called hos-
pitals or ministries, and their superiors ' ministri ; ' their mode of living was similar to
that of the canons of St. Victor at Paris ; their habit was white, with a red and blue
cross patee upon their scapular ; and one-third of their revenues was expended in ransom-
ing captives. They were established by St. John of Malta, and Felix de Valois ; their
first Scottish foundation was erected in Aberdeen, by William the Lion ; and they had
in Scotland 6 monasteries in 1209, and 13 at the Reformation. — The Premonstratenses
had their name from their principal monastery, Premonstratum, in the diocese of Laon
in France ; and were also called Candidus Ordo, because their garb was entirely white.
They followed the rule of St. Augustine, a copy of which they fabled to have been
delivered to them in golden letters by himself ; and were founded by St. Norbert, an
archbishop of Magdeburg, who procured for himself, and his successors in the see, the
title of primate of Germany. Their monasteries in Scotland were six. — The Benedic-
tines, or Black monks, had their names respectively from that of their founder, and from
the colour of their habit. St. Benedict, or Bennet, was born at Nirsi, a town of Italy,
about the year 480, and was the first who brought monachism into estimation in the
west. Five orders who followed his rule had monasteries in Scotland. — The Black
monks of Fleury had 3 Scottish monasteries ; and took their name and origin from the
abbacy of Fleury la Riviere, on the river Loire, in France. — The Tyronenses, the second
order of Benedictines, had 6 Scottish monasteries ; and took their name from their first
abbey, Tyronium, or Tyron, in the diocese of Chartres in France, where they were set-
tled in 1109, under the auspices of Betrou, Earl of Perche and Montagne. — The Clu-
niacences, the third order of Benedictines, had 4 monasteries in Scotland, and originated
with Berno, who began to reform the Benedictines, or to frame some new constitutions,
about the year 940, and who built a new abbey near Cluny, or Cluniacum, in Burgundy,
4 leagues from Macon. — The Cistertians, or Bernardines, the fourth order of Benedic-
tines, had their names respectively from their first house and chief monastery at Cister-
tium, in Burgundy, and from St. Bernard, one of their earliest chief abbots, whose zeal
succeeded in founding upwards of 160 monasteries. They originated in 1098, with
Robert, abbot of Molesme, in the diocese of Langres in France ; and were called White
monks, in contradistinction to the other orders of Benedictines, and in consequence of
retaining only the black cowl and scapular of St. Bennet, and having all the rest of their
habit white. Of 30 provinces into which they were divided, Scotland was one, and it
contained 13 of their monasteries. — The monks of Vallis-caulium, Vallis-olerum, or Val-
des-cheux, were established in 1193, by "V'irard, at the place which gave them name, in
the diocese of Langres, between Dijon and Autun ; they were a professed reform of the
Cistertians, and very austere ; and they were introduced to Scotland, in 1230, by Mal-
voisin, bishop of St. Andrews, and had here 3 monasteries. — The Carthusian monks
were established, in 1086, by Bruno, a doctor of Paris, and a canon of Rheims, in the
wild mountains of Grenoble in France ; they originated professedly in miracle, and
manifestly in excessive superstition, and were characterized by very great austerities ;
they were introduced to England in 1180, but they had in Scotland only one monastery,
founded near Perth, in 1429, by James I., after his captivity in England. — The Gilber-
tines were, in the first instance, all nuns ; but they afterwards had accessions from the
canons-regular, who were domiciled under the same roofs as the nuns, but in separate
apartments. Gilbert, their founder, was born in the reign of William the Conqueror,
and was the son of a gentleman of Normandy, and lord of Sempringham and Tynrington
in Lincolnshire ; and he is said to have spent all his substance and patrimony in such
acts of charity as were dictated by his diseased religion, and particularly in converting
distressed and poor young women into nuns of his order. The nuns were bound to
observe constant silence in the cloister ; and they were not admitted to their novitiate
till they were 15 years of age, and could not be professed before having fully on their
memory the psalms, hymns, and antiphona used in the Romish ritual. Though the
Gilbertines had 21 houses in England, they had only one in Scotland, situated on the
river Ayr, founded by Walter III., Lord High-steward of Scotland, and supplied with
its nuns and canons from Syxle in Yorkshire. — The Templars, or Red friars, were an
order of religious knights, and followed the rule of St. Augustine, and the constitution
of the canons-regular of Jerusalem. They were established at Jerusalem in 1118, by
Hugo de Paganis, and Gaufridus de Sancto Aldemaro ; they professed to defend the
xH'i INTRODUCTION,
temple and city of Jerusalem, to entertain Christian strangers and pilgrims, and to pro-
tect them while in Palestine ; and they received from Baldwin II., king of Jerusalem,
a residence in the vicinity of the temple, or its site, and thence had their name of Tem-
plars. To a white hahit which, in every particular, distinguished their exterior, Pope
Eugenius III. added a red cross of stuff sewed upon their cloaks ; and from this they
were called Red friars. They had enormous possessions, and numbered, throughout
Christendom, upwards of 9,000 houses. In Scotland, they had houses, farms, or lands,
in almost every parish ; and, in particular, they possessed very many buildings in Edin-
burgh and Leith, and had upwards of 8 capital mansions in the country. They are
believed to have been introduced to Scotland by David I. ; those in this country and in
England were under the government of one general prior ; and, in common with all the
other communities of their order, they were, in the year 1312, condemned for certain
great crimes, by a general council held at Vienne in France, and were formally sup-
pressed by Pope Clement V. — The Knights of St. John of Jerusalem closely resembled
the Templars in professed character, and were a sort of noble military monks. Certain
merchants of the city of Melphi, in the kingdom of Naples, who traded to Palestine,
built, under permission of the Caliph of Egypt, a monastery and a church for the recep-
tion of Christian pilgrims, and paid the Caliph tribute for his protection ; and they sub-
sequently added two churches, dedicated respectively to the Virgin Mary and Mary
Magdalene, and used them for the pompously charitable reception, the one of women,
and the other of men. When Jerusalem was taken by Godfrey of Bouillon, Gerard of
Martiques, a native of Provence in France, built, in 1104, a still larger church, and an
hospital for pilgrims and the sick, and dedicated them to St. John. The soldier-monks
of the original erections were put in possession of these buildings, and took from them
the names of Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, Knights- Hospitallers, and Johannites.
After being expelled from Jerusalem by Saladin, they retired to the fortress of Margat
in Phenicia, and subsequently settled, at successive epochs, at Acre or Ptolemais, and
in the islands of Cyprus, Rhodes, and Malta ; and in the last of these they continued,
and from it took the name of the Knights of Malta, till their power was broken, and the
island captured, during the last European war. They were inveterate and sturdy foemen
of the Turks, and figure largely in the military history of the Ottoman empire. Their
members, excepting some illegitimate sons of kings and princes, were all gentlemen, who
proved by charters, or other authentic documents, their nobility of descent by both
father and mother, for four generations. They took the three ordinary monastic vows,
and wore a black habit, with a cross of gold, which had eight points. Their houses
were called preceptories, and the principal officers in them preceptors. On the suppres-
sion of the order of Templars, the Knights of St. John got many of their Scottish lands
and tenements, and, in consequence, are frequently confounded with them in Scottish
history. Their chief dwelling in Scotland was at Torphichen in Linlithgowshire. When
buildings belonging to them were feued out to seculars, they used great care that the
cross of their order should constantly surmount the houses, in evidence that the posses--
sors were subject to them, and were amenable only to their courts. The same practice
was previously observed by the Templars ; and it accounts for the great number of
crosses which j till a late date, might have been seen, and which, in some instances, still
exist, on the tops of old buildings in Edinburgh, Leith, and Linlithgow. — The Domini-
cans, or Black friars, have, for six centuries, been one of the most considerable of the
Romish orders of regular clergy. They are often called Preaching friars, from the cir-
cumstance of their having longer attended to preaching than any of the other orders.
They may preach anywhere without obtaining the permission of the bishops ; they are
allowed to confess all noblemen and ladies without the consent of their curates ; and
they everywhere administer the sacraments, and are exempted from all ecclesiastical
censures. Their habit is a white gown and scapular. Their founder was St. Dominic,
the infamous projector or institutor of the inquisition. This monster devoted himself
and his followers to what he and his fellow- Romanists called the conversion of heretics ;
and he preached and conducted the earliest of the sanguinary crusades against the good
and amiable Waldenses. The order was divided into 45 provinces ; of which Scotland
was the 18th, and contained 15 convents. Though they were professedly mendicants,
they were found, at the breaking up of their Scottish communities, to have amassed in
this country a shameful amount of property. — The Franciscans, or Grey friars, also pro-
fessed mendicants, had their two leading names from their founder, and from the colour
INTRODUCTION', xlvii
of their habit ; and affected to assume the title of Friars Minors, or Minorites, as if
deeming themselves the least or meanest of their function. Their founder was St.
Francis of Assize in Italy, a merchant, and a consummately frantic fanatic, who flour-
ished at the commencement of the 13th century ; and their superiors were called Custo-
des or Wardens. They were divided into Conventuals and Observantines ; the latter of
whom were a reform, in 1419, by Bernardine of Sienna, and had their name from pro-
fessing to observe St. Francis' rule more strictly than the Conventuals, by always walk-
ing bare-footed, and not wearing any linen. The Conventuals were introduced to Scot-
land in 1219, and had 8 convents in the country. The Observantines were introduced
by James I., in a colony from their vicar-general at Cologne, and had here 9 convents.
— The Carmelites, or White friars, were the third order of wandering mendicants ; and
absurdly pretend to trace up their origin to the schools of the prophets in the age of
Elijah. They have their second name from the colour of their outer garment ; and their
first from Mount Carinel in Syria, which abounds in dens, caves, and other sorts of
hiding-holes, and was a favourite retreat both of some of the earliest anchorites under
the Christian dispensation, and of numerous pilgrims during the period of the crusades.
St. Louis, king of France, when returning from Palestine, brought some of the Mount
Carmel ascetics to Europe, and gave them an abode in the outskirts of Paris. The Car-
melites were divided into 32 provinces, of which Scotland was the 13th ; and they were
introduced to the country in the reign of Alexander III., and had here 9 convents. — The
nuns of Scotland were few compared either with the Scottish male regulars, or with their
own proportionate numbers in other lands. Those who followed the rule of Augustine
had only two convents in this country, the one of Canonesses, and the other of Domini-
can nuns. The Benedictine, or Black nuns, followed the rule of Benedict, were founded
by his sister St. Scholastica, and had in Scotland 5 convents. The Bernardine, or Cis-
tertian nuns, likewise followed the rule of St. Benedict, and had 13 convents. The nuns
of St. Francis, or Claresses, were founded by Clara, a lady of Assize in Italy, who
received from St. Francis himself a particular modification of his rule, full of rigour and
austerity ; and they had in Scotland only two houses. — The Secular canons, or conven
tual bodies of the secular clergy, formed communities which were called Prfepositurse,
or Collegiate churches ; and were governed by a dean or provost. Each collegiate
church was instituted for performing religious service, and singing masses for the souls
of the founder and patrons, or their friends ; it was fitted up with several degrees or
stalls which the officiates occupied for an orderly or systematic singing of the canonical
hours ; it had for its chapter, the governing dean or provost, and the other canons who
bore the name of prebendaries ; and, in general, it was erected either by the union and
concentration in it of several parish churches, or by the union and concentration of
several chaplainries instituted under one roof. The number of Collegiate churches in
Scotland was 33. — Hospitals, for receiving strangers and travellers, or maintaining the
poor and the infirm, were the lowest order of ecclesiastical establishments, and had the
accompaniment of a church or chapel. Keith gives a list of 28 which existed in Scot-
land ; but says he is convinced the list might be vastly augmented.
EDUCATION.
The Universities of Scotland are, in most particulars, sufficiently noticed in our arti-
cles on St. Asdkews, Glasgow, Aberdeen, and Edinburgh, the cities in which they are
situated. All, except that of Edinburgh, existed before the Reformation ; and that of
St. Andrews is illustriously associated with the name of Melville, and makes an honour-
able figure in the history of the revival of literature. A Senatus Academicus, consisting
of the several professors, wields, in each of the Universities, the power of conferring
degrees, of determining or modifying the academical curriculum, of controlling all mat-
ters of academical interest, and of enforcing or correcting the disciplinarian proceedings
of each individual professor. In Edinburgh, the patronage of nearly all the chairs is
vested in the Town-council of the city ; but in the other Universities, it is possessed by
the Senatus Academicus. Power, in general exterior matters, is in Edinburgh wielded
by the Town-council, either in their own name, or in that of a nominal Lord-rector of
the University, who is always ex-officio the Lord-provost of the city ; and, in St. Andrews,
Glasgow, and Aberdeen, it is wielded chiefly and substantially by a Lord-rector annually
chosen by the students, and subordinately or in an honorary way, by a chancellor chosen
Xlvili INTRODUCTION.
for life by the Senatus. The professors in all the Universities are required by law to be
members of the Established church, and to subscribe her standards. The students, on
the contrary, are admitted to the classes,, carried through the curriculum, and held
eligible for every academical honour, without reference to creeds or sects. Exclu-
sive of some medical and other lectureships, so constituted as to be rather appendages
than integral parts, the number of professorships in all Scotland is 71 ;. and, exclusive
of the attendance on the lectureships,, the entire number of students may be esti-
mated at about 4,000, — three-sevenths of the whole belonging to Edinburgh, seven-
eighteenths to Glasgow, and the proportion of 23 in 126 jointly to St. Andrews and
Aberdeen. — The parochial school system of Scotland theoretically requires that there
should be at least one school in each parish. When, toward the close of the 17th cen-
tury, the system was legislated by act of parliament, it became, except in the remote
Highland parishes, very promptly and generally adopted ; and from its general preva-
lence, and its apparently high adaptation to bring out results in every part of the king-
dom, it long earned for Scotland's population the fame of being the best educated people
in the world. The system, however, was slowly and reluctantly discovered to possess
many defects, both intrinsic and extrinsic ; it has been eked out in the sequestered dis-
tricts by many and vigorous ultraneous appliances, and superseded in the large towns by
burgh-schools and association-academies ; and though continuing to confer important
advantages, has confessedly allowed other and younger countries silently to overtop
Scotland in the laurel of her peculiar boast. At present, considerably the majority of the
quoad civilia parishes have each one parochial school ; some have two ; a few have three ;
and those in the large towns, or in nearly all towns of more than 3,000 or 4,000 popula-
tion, either have none, or impose upon burgh or subscription schools the misnomer of
parochial. The schoolmasters of the bona fide parochial schools are appointed by the
landholders and clergy ; they require to be members of the Established church, and they
are under the superintendence of the presbytery of their bounds. Their remuneration
as a body is shamefully disproportioned to the required amount and value of their quali-
fications, to the high importance of their profession, or to the laboriousness and deeply
influential nature of their duties ; and, in consequence of the illiberality or blundering of
the last act of parliament on the subject, and of the niggard rigidness with which the
act's provisions are for the most part executed, it, in many instances, fails, even with all
aids from fees and from the emoluments of attached or superinduced offices, to raise the
outward condition of a schoolmaster above that of a peasant. Exclusive of assistants,
and of the teachers of all or most of the third, and a considerable proportion of those of
the second schools, in parishes which have more schools than one, the schoolmasters have
each a salary not exceeding £34 4s. 4£d-, and not less than between £25 and £26, a
free dwelling-house and a school-room, and fees per quarter which may be stated rather
above than below the average for all Scotland, at from Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. for English
reading, from 2s. to 3s. 6d. for English reading and writing, from 2s. 6d. to 4s. for Eng-
lish reading, writing, and arithmetic, from 3s. to 10s. 6d. for mathematics, from 2s. to
7s. 6d. for Latin, from 5s. to 10s. 6d. for Latin and Greek, and from 5s. to 10s. 6d. for
French. The average incomes, from salaries, fees, and additional emoluments, exclu-
sive of house and garden, or money in lieu of them, of all the parochial teachers, not
including assistants, was ascertained by a late return to be £52 17s. ; a sum so small as
to bring down the average for at least one-half of their number to probably not more
than £30 or £35. Among the augments to the means of education which have been
made to help out the utter inadequacy of the parochial system, are several classes of
endowed or extraneously supported schools, noticed in our article on the Highlands, —
the General Assembly's subscription schools, commenced in 1824, and numbering 20 in
the Lowlands, — the high-schools and grammar-schools of the larger burghs, generally
under the patronage of the local magistrates, and, in the majority of instances, well pro-
vided with a plurality of teachers, and not scurvied over with the leprous touch of the
niggard, — some proprietary, or public association-academies, erected in a style of literary
splendour, conducted on expansive, liberal, and reforming principles, and exerting a
powerful influence for the rapid demolition of antiquated mechanician modes of tuition,
— a lew schools supported by a munificent bequest of the late Dr. Bell of Madras, — and
many well-appointed, and somewhat fairly supported, congregational schools, connected
with individual congregations among the dissenters. A prodigious amount, however, or
by far the greater part of the non-parochial schools, — an amount considerably greater
INTRODUCTION...
xlix
than the aggregate one of even the- parochial schools, themselves,— consists of schools
begun and conducted wholly by the private, adventure of their teachers. Many of these-
are of highly creditable character, and bring, from mere fees, a much greater revenue
than the average income of the parochial schoolmasters ; many, also, are checked by the
supervision, of a competent,, though altogether voluntary and conventional sanction ; but
most are altogether pitiful imitations, some of them even hideous or farcical caricatures,
of elementary schools, in all respects irresponsible, in many respects deleterious ; and
"while, in. a painful mass of instances,, the schools are presided over only by pedantic
ignorance, or industrious penury, they yield, often even when merit superintends them,
so very scanty an income, that one wonders how it should tempt the labours of even the
pedant or the enfeebled peasant. Non-parochial schools are to the parochial as 41 to,
12 ; and if probably about one-tenth of their whole number be deducted, they almost
certainly — though we have no precise data for a calculation — ^yield an average income
at least one-third less than that of the parochial schoolmasters. When the exceedingly
motley character, and the disgracefully low revenues of the schools of Scotland are duly
adverted to, the most superficial fair thinker, while aware that multitudes of excellent
or superior scholars must be produced, will be at no loss to see that the Scottish people
as a whole are at the mercy of great blundering and incompetence, and possess in many
instances few, and in some instances none, of the advantages which would resu.lt from
some general, well-constructed, competent and liberal system of education. The propor-
tions in which the higher departments of tuition are appreciated and patronized in Scot-
land, may probably be inferred from a return made to the General Assembly of the
results of presbyterial examination of schools in 1839. The schools examined were in
237 instances non-parochial ; and, including these, they were aggregately attended by
152,281 scholars, — of whom 524 were learning Greek, 1,053 French, 3,201 Latin, 2,301
mathematics, and 13,120 geography. The following table shows, from a parliamentary
report published in 1837, and founded on returns made by the parochial clergy, the
number and the county distribution of schools and teachers in Scotland, and the aggre-
gate amount of the parish schoolmaster^ salaries.
Counties.
No. of
Parochial
Schools.
No. of
Instruc-
tors.
Salaries.
Total Incomes,
including Salaries,
Fees, and other
Emoluments.
No. of
Scliools
Nun-paro-
chial.
No. of
Instruc-
tors.
93
74
46
25.
34
10
10
5
13
65
32
21
55
53
30
34
22
5
49
72
13
4
28
16
73
19
33
44
5
33
13
18
96
78
62
29
40
10
11
6
15
69
40
27
61
60
32
34
22
7
55
90
13
4
29
17
75
22
33
53
8
39
15
21
£2,509 17
1,347 16
1,624 12
761 18
1,049 16
181 9
345 17
159 6
412 1
1.641 16
1,183 19
688 17
1,831 18
1,717 18
858 5
877 U
670 16
170 17
1,163 10
1,611 18
426 8
137 17
738 6
494 3
2,384 15
463 7
9S3 7
1,144 15
165 10
956 14
420 6
516 18
10
I
lOf
Of
lOf
H
6i
n
4
8*
4
9}
6}
11
3
0
1
5
74
8*
6£
2*
10
7
4f
4
2
Hi
7*
74
£4.873 14 104,
2,401 6 7
3,485 9 11^
1,304 10 7l
2,224 14 64.
320 9 10 J
639 14 3}
307 10 6i
714 8 114.
2,968 3 1
2,518 13 84.
1,044 13 5
3,576 2 If
3,353 16 6J
1,784 3 3£
1,335 15 11
1,168 13 11
338 7 1
2,223 14 7f
3,868 19 2i
845 16 If
189 17 64
928 9 Hi
853 8 84
4,011 18 10f
897 4 lOf
1.421 5 54
2,303 3 34
351 10 ll|
1,675 9 64
574 5 lOf
928 2 9f
347
200
225
125
59
30
86
26.
54
129
460
70
223
223
51
122
85
13
56
352
48
14
113
14
251
169
124
68
13
121
43
81
379
207
241
131
60
34
86
39
55
143
640
88
252
255
55
127
86
15
60
376
55
15
113
17
259
193
129
80
14
138
45
82
Banff,
Bute,
Edinburgh
File
Kirkcudbright,
Perth,
Renfrew,
Roxburgh,
Stirling,
Sutherland
Wigton,
Total,
1,047
1,170
£29,642 18
"4
£55,339 17 IJ
3,995
4,469
1 INTRODUCTION.
While these pages are passing through the press, an additional document has reached
us, in a thick volume, ordered by the House of Commons to be printed, -which contains the
answers made by schoolmasters in Scotland to returns circulated in 1838, by order of
the Select Committee on Education. Of parochial schools, the number which returned
answers is 924 ; and the number which did not return answers is 129 ; being 1,053 in
all. Of the 924 which returned answers, there are 231 privately endowed, and 693
unendowed ; and the average number of scholars stood thus : — In 1836, 36,808 males,
20,524 females ; total, 57,332. In 1837, 39,604 males, 22,317 females ; total, 61,921.
The number of teachers — of whom a few are only occasional assistants — is 1,054 ; and
of these 206 have other occupation or employment. Of the 944 schools, there are 445
in which Greek is taught ; Latin is taught in 664 ; and Mathematics in 689. Of schools
not parochial, 2,329 returned answers, and 1,025 did not ; making altogether 3,354
schools not parochial. Of the number which returned answers, 753 are stated to have
endowments, and 1,318 are supported exclusively by school-fees. The number of
scholars was : — In 1836, 68,771 males, 50,579 females ; total, 119,350. In 1837,
78,867 males, 54,451 females ; total, 128,318. Greek is taught in 191 of these schools ;
Latin in 501 ; and Mathematics in 6S3. The number of teachers is 2,940, of whom 703
are females. There are only 12 of the parochial schools which returned answers in
which Gaelic is taught, but it is taught in 239 of the non-parochial.
The attendance on these schools, exclusive of that on private boarding-schools, and of
children under the care of domestic tutors, amounts, at the maximum rate, and on the
average for all Scotland, to one-ninth of the population. The greatest number of
scholars at the parochial schools, was between the 25th of March and the 29th of Sep-
tember, and, allowing a proportion for defective returns, was 71,426 ; and the least, at
any period of the year, was 50,029. The greatest number at non-parochial schools was
189,427 ; and the least was 139,327. The entire community of parochial and burgh
schoolmasters, was established, by act of parliament in 1S07, into a sort of corporate
body, and have a fund for the benefit of their widows and children, compulsorily sup-
ported by a small annual contribution from each of the members. — Sabbath-schools in
Scotland are educational only in the highest or the purely religious sense, and are, in
all instances, voluntary, or conducted without any reference to State influence or sup-
port. In 1825, they amounted throughout the country to 1,577 in number, and were
attended by 80,190 scholars; and, though their statistics since that period have been
imperfect and confused, they seem to have everywhere increased at least proportionately
with the population, and to have been introduced or greatly multiplied in Highland or
other sequestered districts.
LITERATURE.
The literature of Scotland, as to standard and periodical publication, great or national
literary institutions, and even minor appliances of production and diffusion, is, with
unimportant exceptions, concentrated in Edinburgh and Glasgow, particularly the
former ; and will be found sufficiently noticed in our accounts of these cities. The
Lowland Scotch are eminently a reading people, and, in proportion to their bulk, have
probably a very considerably larger number of public libraries than any other in the
world. Subscription libraries — sometimes two or more in number, and generally large,
select, and comparatively rich in literature — exist in most of the large towns ; parochial
and congregational libraries, for the most part pervaded by religiousness of character,
exist in villages, hamlets, and in rooms attached to the crowded chapel of the city, or
the solitary rural church or meeting-house ; private circulating libraries, or libraries on
private adventure, for letting out books to promiscuous readers, are usually of a light
character, and abound in city, town, watering-place, and every locale or resort of the
intellectually frivolous ; circumambulating libraries, or such as keep detachments of a
very large and excellent library in garrison throughout the country, and periodically
move them from post to post, are in full and benign possession of extensive territories ;
Sabbath-school, and other juvenile libraries, exist in great numbers, for the use of the
young ; and a public news-room, for blending literature with commerce, and with mental
recreation, is to be found even in many a village, and in almost everything which can
fairly be called a town. — The number of stamped newspapers in Scotland, in the year
ending September, 1836, was 54 ; the number of stamps issued to them, was 2,654,438 ;
INTRODUCTION. 11
and the amount of stamp duty received from them was £35,392. In the year ending
loth September, 1837, the newspapers were 65 ; the stamps 4,123,330 ; and the duty
£17.180. In the year ending 5th January, 1839, the newspapers were 64 ; the stamps
4,228,370 ; and the duty £17,386 Is. 4d. In the half-year ending 30th June, 1839,
the newspapers were 63 ; the stamps 1,908,780 ; and the duty £7,876 5s. 5d. At the
last of these dates, 3 of the newspapers were published in Aberdeen, 2 in Arbroath, 2 in
Ayr, 2 in Berwick, 2 in Cupar-Fife, 3 in Dumfries, 3 in Dundee, 12 in Edinburgh, 1 in
Elgin, 1 in Forres, 12 in Glasgow, 2 in Greenock, 3 in Inverness, 2 in Kelso, 1 in
Kilmarnock, 1 in Leith, 2 in Montrose, 1 in Paisley, 4 in Perth, 2 in Stirling, 1 in
Stranraer, and 1 in Wick. Of the whole 63, no fewer than 46 were weekly ; while 5
were published thrice a-week, and belonged to Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Greenock ; and
12 were published twice a-week, and belonged to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Greenock, Kelso,
and Leith.
COINS, WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
Scottish coinage cannot be traced higher than the twelfth century. Silver pennies
were coined by William the Lion and his immediate successors ; and this and other
silver coins continued to be the only currency till the reign of David II. During the
whole of the Scoto- Saxon period, Scottish money was of the same fashion, weight, and
fineness, as the English, bore the same denominations, and was, in all respects, coequal
with it in value. David II., amid the feebleness and the wretched circumstances of his
reign, coined groats, half-groats, pennies, and half-pennies, of silver, but so debased the
coinage, that it was, for the first time, prohibited in England, or rated at a depreciated
standard. The amount of deterioration was one-fifth of the whole value ; and was
estimated nearly at that proportion in the calculations of the English. David's succes-
sors not only followed his example, but carried out the principle of it with a boldness
and a rapidity of expansion which excite surprise. Three, two, and one of the English
pennies successively, and in speediness of change, became equal to four of the Scottish.
The money of Scotland was at length carried so far along the career of deterioration, as,
about the year 1600, to become only one-twelfth of the English in value ; and, at this
miserably depreciated rate, it has ever since stood in abstract or comparative reckoning.
Robert II., who ascended the throne in 1371, introduced gold pieces, and coined £17
12s. out of one pound of gold. Mary coined royals of 10, 20, and 30 shillings, generally
known under the name of Crookston dollars. James VI. coined merks, half merks,
quarter merks, and half-quarter merks, and nobles and half nobles. Charles II. coined
pieces of 4 merks and 2 merks, dollars of 56 shillings each in value, half-dollars, quarter
dollars, half-quarter dollars, and sixteenths of dollars. James VII. coined 40 and 10
shilling pieces ; and William and Mary pieces of 60, 40, 20, 10, and 5 shillings. At the
epoch of the Union, nearly £900,000 existed in Scotland in the different coins of various
nations ; and the whole specie was recoined in uniformity with the English standard,
and, with very little addition of paper currency, put into circulation, to the permanent
exclusion of the old and wofully depreciated coins. — Copper money, or billon, generally
known by the name of black money, was introduced to Scotland a century and a-half
before it appeared in England. The copper coins of James II., III., IV., and V.,— the
largest of which is about the size of a modern shilling, but very thin, — were probably
intended to pass for groats and half-groats. Mary coined placks, or fourpenny pieces ;
James VI. coined bodies, or twopenny pieces, and hardheads, or threepenny pieces ; and
Charles II., and William and Mary, besides repeating parts of the former coinage,
coined bawbees. — The early weights and measures of Scotland were derived chiefly from
England, during the 12th century ; and, whatever may have been their variety, they
long continued to serve every practical end among an uncommercial people. The par-
liament, desirous to maintain fairness and uniformity, appointed standards in the several
departments ; and, probably with a reference to the respective manufactures of the
burghs, assigned the keeping of the standard ell to Edinburgh, that of the reel to Perth,
that of the pound to Lanark, that of the firlot to Linlithgow, and that of the jug to
Stirling. Yet these standards seem to have been very carelessly kept, — so much so,
that one of them was, for a long period, actually lost ; and they did not prevent
the usages of Scotland from becoming discrepant with those of England, or even frorn
atsuming various and perplexing local peculiarities. An uniformity of weights and
Hi INTRODUCTION.
measures was, from time to time, desiderated and attempted as a great social benefit %
it was decreed by the act of Union to extend over both divisions of the United Kingdom ;
and it was pleaded and abstractly exhibited in numerous elaborate pamphlets, which
were fruitlessly lauded by the learned, and coolly neglected or stolidly gazed at by the
ignorant. In spite of both laws and logic, the people remained so wedded to their prac-
tices, that, till the recent introduction of Imperial weights and measures-, dissimilarities
which arose during the torpidity and ignorance of the feudal times, continued, with
many of the properties of an intricate puzzle, to perplex our theorists and embarrass our
dealers.
ANTIQUITIES.
The number and variety of Druidical remains in Scotland are Yery great ; and they
abound most in the recesses of Perthshire among the spurs of the Grampians, indicating
these deep seclusions to have been the principal Scottish seat of the aboriginal superstition,
Druidical altars are of two sorts, — flat stones, which are either upright or recumbent, —
and cromlechs, which consist each of several stones usually placed upon their respective
edges, and always supporting a large broad stone, so as to possess, jointly with it, a rude
resemblance to a massive modern table ; and the altars of both sorts are numerous, and,
for the most part, are connected with Druidical circles, or other Druidical works, —
though the cromlechs occasionally appear in some deep solitude without any accompani-
ment. Druidical cairns diifer from the better known sepulchral cairns, and may be
distinguished from them by their connexion with other Druidical works, by their being
usually fenced round the base with a circle of stones, by their being' approached along-
an avenue of upright stones, and by their having each on its summit a large flat stone,
en which the Druid fires were lighted. Rocking stones, which are huge blocks so poised
as to be easily moved, or made to oscillate, and which excite the wonder of the vulgar,
and have provoked controversies among the learned, are, in some instances, supposed to
be natural curiosities, but on the whole are generally allowed — whether of natural or of
artificial origin — to have been made the tools of the degenerate Druidical priesthood,
for imposing on the savage and the superstitious ; and though not numerous, they occur
with sufficient frequency to occupy a commanding place among the country's earliest
antiquities. Druidical circles have, to a very great amount, been removed, since the
epoch of georgical improvement, to make way for the plough ; yet they continue to exist
in such wondrous plenty, and such great variety, as to render continued notices of them
in accounts of parishes, monotonous and tiresome. — Sepulchral remains of the earliest
inhabitants of Scotland, though they have to an enormous amount been swept away by
the same cause which has thinned the Druidical circles, are still very numerously trace-
able in almost every part of both the continent and the islands, and may be considered
under the several distinctions of barrows, cairns, cistvaens, and urns, — the two former
constituting tumuli, and the two latter their most remarkable contents. The tumuli, in
most instances, are circular heaps, resembling flat cones ; and, in many instances, are
oblong ridges, resembling the upturned or inverted hull of a ship. Most of them are
composed of stones ; many of a mixture of stones and earth ; some wholly of earth ; and
a few wholly or chiefly of sand. Cairns and barrows are mutually distinguished by the
former being of stones and the latter of earth ; and both, when they are conical and
covered with green sward, are vulgarly called hillocks. The tumuli are of uniform
general character in all parts of Scotland and in England, the cairn prevailing in the
northern division of the island, and the barrow in the southern, owing simply, as would
seem, to the respective abundance on the surface of the countries of lapidose and of
earthy substances ; and, in the very numerous instances in which they have been opened
and explored, they have been found to contain the ashes, the hair, or the bones, of
human bodies, either nakedly interred, or carefully shut up in cistvaens and urns. The
cistvaen, in strict accordance with the meaning of the word in the British language, is a
stone chest ; it is very various in size, and even in form ; it contains, for the most part,
ashes and bones, and occasionally an urn ; and it very generally, among both the vulgar
and the learned, bears the name of a stone-coffin. Urns are found generally in tumuli
unenclosed in cistvaens, but occur also beneath the surface of level ground ; they are
composed usually of pottery, and sometimes of stones ; and they are of different shapes
and sizes, and according to the taste of the times or the ability of the parties concerned
INTRODUCTION. ISl
with tliem, are variously ornamented. — An occasional connexion, dictated apparently by
policy, exists between the sepulchral tumuli and the Druidical circles ; and a connexion,
both more frequent and more natural, exists between these tumuli and the British
strengths.- — Akin to the simple and more common and plenteous sepulchral tumuli, are
some large sepulchral cairns, which denote the fields of ancient conflicts. Besides being
of comparatively large bulk, and having a comparative multiplicity of contents, these
cairns are characterized by the vicinity of fragments of swords, of bows, and of flint-
pointed arrows ; they have, on the whole, thrown a faint light on the remote martial
history of Scotland ; and by the plurality of their occurrences among the bases of the
mountain-rampart of the Highlands, they have contributed, along with some cognate an-
tiquities, to evoke much controversy on the questio vexata as to the scene of the celebrated
battle of the Grampians, Some of these cairns, which still remain, are called Cat-stanes ;
and the same name- — which seems plainly to be derived from the British Cad, or the
Scoto-Irish Cath, ' a battle' — is applied, in various instances, to single stones. — Numerous
stones of memorial, or rude pillars, apparently very ancient, and raised by the same
people as the Cat-stanes, exist in every district, and, in allusion to their upright position,
are traditionally called standing-stones ; they are in their natural state, without the
mark of any tool, and, of course, are very various in form ; they frequently appear
single, and frequently, also, in groups of two, three, four, and even a greater number ;
and, in general, from their wanting inscriptions and sculpturings, they have failed to
transmit the events which they were reared to commemorate- Another class of standing-
stones are of a later date, and are of two species,- — the one triumphal, and set up to
commemorate some happy national event, such as a victory over the Danes ; the other
Romishly monumental, and erected with the double design of noting the scene of a
disaster, and of bespeaking the prayers of passengers for the souls of persons who, in the
course of the disaster, were slain or otherwise perished : both kinds have sculptured on
them the figure of a cross, with various knots of grotesque scroll-work, vulgarly deno-
minated Danish Tangles ; and, in some instances, they are charged with a kind of hiero-
glyphics.—British strengths, consisting of circular and oval hill-forts, and other safe-
guards, are surprisingly numerous. Their situation in reference to the districts they
command, their mutual or relative positions, and the accommodations attached to them,
all indicate that they were constructed rather for the purpose of protection against the
attacks of neighbouring and consanguineous tribes, than for that of repelling or checking
an invading enemy. They occupy eminences in districts which, even in the earliest ages
of Scottish population, must have been the most habitable and fructiferous ; they fre-
puently appear in compact or not far dispersed groups of three, four, and even a larger
number ; and they are so disposed in their groupings, that a view of all is obtained from
the site of each, and that a larger and stronger one commands the rest from the centre,
and seems to have been the distinguished post of the chief. The larger strengths were
in many instances converted, at the Roman invasion, into Roman posts ; and the groups
have often intruded among them Roman camps, which seem to have been constructed in
astute perception of the nature of the ground, with the evident purpose of watching and
overawing them. The forts are exceedingly various in area, strength, and details of
construction ; but, in general, they consist of an interior central building, one, two, or
three concentric ramparts, and one or two exterior ditches. Two ranges of small forts,
each, in general, perched on the summit of a dome-like hill, or conical rising ground,
extend along the north side of Antoninus' wall, — the one between the friths of Forth and
Clyde, and the other along the lace of the country on the north bank of the Forth ;
both, in the case of each of their forts, bear the name of Keir, evidently a corruption of
the British Caer, 'a fort ;' and they appear, from local and comparative circumstances, a,s
well as from an intimation by Tacitus, to have been the only Caledonian posts erected
with the design of opposing the Roman progress. The ramparts of all the British forts
were composed of dry stones and earth, without any appearance of mortar or cement ;
and they varied in outline, from the circular or oval, to the wavingly irregular, accord-
ing to the figure of the hills whose summits they crowned. Connected with some of the
forts, were outworks on the declivity of the hills below, which were probably designed to
shelter the cattle belonging to the defenders of the fort. — Subterranean safeguards, or
hiding-holes, have been discovered in many parts of Scotland, and seem, in most instan-
ces, to have been constructed, or improved and adopted, by the pristine people during a
rude age. A few of them are entirely artificial ; consist of one, two, or three apartments
Hv INTRODUCTION.
of yarious dimensions, but generally very small ; constructed entirely underground of
large rude stones, without any cement ; and containing, in most cases, unequivocal
relics of having been human abodes. Natural caves, which abound on the rocky coasts,
and among the cliffy dells and ravines of Scotland, have very numerously been improved
by artificial means into places of great strength ; and, in some instances, they are of
large capacity, and retain distinct vestiges of enlargement or modelling within, and
especially of fortification by various contrivances without. Other caves, chiefly of small
capacity, and in very sequestered situations, are replete with interest as the known or
reputed hiding-holes of the patriotic Scots during the Baliol usurpation, and especially
of the sturdy and noble Covenanters during the Stuart tyranny and persecution.
Scottish antiquities of Roman origin are so well known and understood, and, in all
their great instances, are so fully described in the body of our work, that they require
no particular illustration. Any separate and consecutive notice of them which could
fling light on their interesting features, would be a sketch — necessarily too expansive for
our available space — of the history and the scenes of Agricola's campaigns, and of the
actions of Lucius Urbicus. The chief of them are Antoninus' wall, separately noticed
in the alphabetical arrangement ; roads or causeways, which intersected the whole terri-
tory south of Antoninus' wall, and ran up in decreasing ramifications to the Moray
frith, and are noticed in our articles on counties and districts ; and quadrangular camps,
fortified stations, bridges, and innumerable minor antiquities, profusely noticed in pro-
bably two-thirds of all the considerable articles in our work. — Pictish antiquities are
curious rather for their obscureness and singularity, than for either their number or
their imposing character. The most magnificent — if, indeed, they be of Pictish origin
—are vast artificial terraces cut in parallel rows along or around the face of hills, and
literally, with their base and back-ground, resembling stupendous amphitheatres. They
occur, in instances singular for either boldness or beauty, in Glenroy, Glen-Spean, Glen-
Guy, Markinch in Fifeshire, Glammis in Forfarshire, and various places in Peebles-
shire. In the last of these counties, they are unhesitatingly ascribed to the Picts ; in
the Highland districts, they are traditionally said to have been cut for the accommoda-
tion of royal and baronial hunting parties ; and, as a whole, they have been regarded by
some antiquarians as made by the Romans for itinerary encampments. Whoever
constructed them must have been a people of singular laboriousness, skill, and persever-
ance ; and, at the same time, so eccentric in character, or so wasteful in energy, as
effectually to have left their design an enigma to future observers. Pictish houses, as
they are vulgarly called, are antiquities peculiar to Scotland, and not infrequently occur
on the north coast: they are conical towers, all built without cement, open in the centre,
with two or three rows of galleries for lodgings constructed in the body of the walls, and,
in some instances, square repositories for warlike arms. Vitrified forts are also peculiar
to Scotland, and are ascribed to the Picts almost solely for the doubtful reason of their
having hitherto been discovered chiefly in the north. Vitrification is their distinguishing
and very remarkable feature ; it has clearly been effected by the action of fire upon
vitrifiable materials, either accidentally or designedly employed in the construction of
the walls ; and it exists to such a degree, that the numerous ingredential parts of the
wall are either run or compacted together, or in some places so divested of their lapidose
properties, as to appear like vast masses of coarse glass or slugs. Except for their
vitrification, and that some of their ramparts appear to have had a mixture of earth and
rubbish with the stones, the vitrified forts are, in all respects, or as to at once peculiarity
of site, form, mode of construction, and accompaniments, similar to the hill-forts of the
Britons. They were introduced to public notice only so late as 1777 ; and have been
the subject of considerable philosophic controversy as to the cause of their vitrification,
— the discoverer of them and his followers maintaining that they were designedly vitri-
fied by their builders, and display great astuteness in the practice of a remarkably
singular, and, at the same time, puissant, mode of architecture ; while two other classes
— the latter probably with truth — allege respectively that their present form is the effect
of extinct volcanic agency, and that they were vitrified by the accidental effects of arti-
ficial fire upon materials selected without design, and naturally of an easily vitrifiable
character. Another species of building attributed, though doubtfully, to the Picts, is
very common in Ireland, but exhibits only two specimens in Scotland, respectively at
Abernethy and at Brechin : it is a tall, slender, cylindrical tower, coned at the top, very
. curious as a piece of architecture, but the subject of mazy and manifold disputations as
INTRODUCTION. IV
to its designed use. Inaugural stones are a class of monuments intimately associated
with the most distinguished archceology of the Scoto-Irish and the Irish, and were used
in the inauguration of the chieftains of the Irish clans. The chief Scottish antiquity of
this class is the famous coronation-stoner now in Westminster, but anciently located
successively at Dunstaffnage and at Scone, and noticed in our article on the former of
these places. — Earthen works, additional to the barrows of the Britons, are a miscel-
laneous class of antiquities, and of various date and origin. Small circular intrench-
ments are not infrequent, and are supposed to be Danish forts. Elongated,- flattened
mounds, occur in a few instances, bear the name of Bow-butts, and are believed to have
been constructed and used for the exercise of archery. Moats, or large artificial
moundish hillocks, platformed on the summit, and ascending at a regular gradient on
the sides, were places for the administration, over considerable districts, of public justice ;
and court-hills, not very dissimilar to them in appearance, were the sites of the baronial
courts previous to the demolition of the feudal system. Both are very common in Scot-
land ; and sometimes, or even very generally — according to the belief, at least, of local
antiquaries — the characters and uses of the two are concentrated in one object, — the
same mound being both moat and court-hill. "These moat and court-hills," says
Grose, " serve to explain the use of those high mounts still remaining near our ancient
castles, which were probably judgment-seats, but have been mistaken for military works,
a sort of ancient cavaliers, raised to command the moveable towers, so commonly used
for the attacks of fortresses. I, among others, for want of having seen and considered
these moat and court-hills, was led to adopt that idea." — The ecclesiastical antiquities
of Scotland consist of monasteries, collegiate churches, and a few chapels, parish-
churches, and hospitals ; and appear all to be of not higher date than the 12th century.
The religious buildings of the Culdees seem, for a considerable time, at least, to have
been plain, fragile, and of very primitive workmanship ; and, even toward the close of
the Culdee epoch, they probably were, in no instance, of a kind either to resist the
influences of time by their durability, or to woo the cares of the conservator by their
architectural attractions. Our ecclesiastical antiquities are, in consequence, all Romish ;
and, considered as works of art and magnificence, they are by no means inferior in point
of execution to those of England. The most exquisite specimens are the abbeys of
Melrose, Kelso, and Jedburgh, and the church of Elgin ; specimens of great beauty are
the abbeys of Dunfermline and Paisley ; very handsome specimens are the abbeys of
Duudrennan and Newabbey ; the grandest specimens — those which best combine archi-
tecture with amplitude — are the abbeys of Holyrood and Arbroath ; and the specimens
in the highest state of repair are the cathedral of St. Mungo in Glasgow, the church of
St. Magnus in Kirkwall, and the church of St. Giles and Trinity College church in
Edinburgh. Each of these, as well as of every other, whether extant or extinct, which
presents in landscape or in history any feature of interest, our work fully notices and
describes in its appropriate place. — The ancient border-houses* fortalices, and castles of
Scotland, though small, seem to have been very numerous. Major says there were two
in every league. Most of them are remarkably similar to one another;; and, in general,
each is a high square tower, surmounting a beetling rock or other abrapt eminence, and,
in the case of many, overhanging some stream, or the sea. The towers are, for the most
part, extremely strong, often from 13 to 15 feet thick in the walls ; and they rise in
height to 3 or 4 stories, each story vaulted, and the whole covered with a vaulted roof.
At every angle, re-entering as well as salient, is a turret, supported like the guerites at
the salient angles of modern bastions ; at each end of the tower, adjoining the roof, is
commonly a triangular gable, the sides diminishing by a series of steps called crow
steps ; and near the top of the tower usually runs a cornice of brackets, like those which
support machicollations. At the bottom of most of the towers was the prison or pit, a
deep, dark, noisome dungeon, to which the miserable prisoners were let down by ropes ;
and an iron door to the chief entrance to the tower was also no infrequent means of
security. In some instances, a tower was double, — two being built together at right
angles with each other, constituting a figure somewhat like that of the letter L or T,
and forming a kind of mutual defence or partial flank. As luxury and security increased,
both these towers, and the single or more common one, were enlarged with additional
buildings for lodgings, frequently surrounded by walls, and, in some instances, as in
those of Linlithgow-palace and Loudoun-castle, eventually made the mere nucleus of
modern, magnificent, princely mansions. The old towers were often the abodes of an
Ivi INTRODUCTION.
almost incredibly large number of inmates ; and as they were sparingly lighted through
very small windows, they must have been as gloomy as unwholesome. When any of
them were taken by an enemy, they were usually burned ; but as they were little else
than mere masses of stone, they suffered no damage except a little besooting or singeing?
and, immediately afterwards, undergoing repair, and receiving a boastful though rude
emblazonry of their owners' arms, and the date of their own disaster and renovation,
they, in some instances, exhibit to the eye a curious tracery and surprising profusion of
■inscriptions, armorial bearings, and miscellaneous devices.
EARLY HISTORY.
The aborigines of Scotland seem, beyond any reasonable doubt, to havebeen clans of
the same Gaelic origin as those, who, in the most early ages, settled in England. Scot-
land, at the epoch of Agricola's invasion, may be viewed as a mirror which reflects back
the condition of England at the earlier era when Julius Csesar introduced the -Roman
arms to Britain, and also that of Gaul at the still remoter period when Roman ambition
subdued the common parent of the British nations. Caledonia, in its largest extent,
■from the Tweed and the Eden on the south, to Dunnet-head in Caithness on the north,
was distributed among twenty-one tribes' of Britons. Those on the east coast, or Low-
lands, owing to the greater fertility of the soil, must have been. more numerous and
potent than those of the western or Highland districts ; and all, accordantly with ancient
Celtic usage, were mutually independent, and could be brought into union or co-operation
only by the pressure of danger. The Ottadini — whose name-seems to -have been derived
from the Tjne or Tina — occupied the whole coast-district between the southern Tyne
and the frith of Forth, comprehending the half of Northumberland, the whole of Ber-
wickshire and East- Lothian, and the eastern part of Roxburghshire ; and had their chief
town at Bremenium, on Reed-water, in Northumberland. The Gadeni — -whose name
■alludes >to the numerous groves which adorned and fortified their territory — inhabited the
interior country immediately west of that of the Ottadini, comprehending the western
part of Northumberland, a small part of Cumberland, the western part of Roxburgh, all
•Selkirk and Tweeddale, much of Mid- Lothian, and nearly all West-Lothian ; and they
had Curia, on Gore-water, for their capital. The Selgovse — whose country lay upon
" a dividing water," and who gave name to the Solway — inhabited the whole of Dum-
fries-shire, and the eastern part of Galloway, as far as the Dee ; and had, as their chief
towns, Trimontium at Brunswark-hill in Annandale, Uxellum at Wardlaw-hill in
Caerlaverock, and Caerbantorigum at Drummore, in the parish of Kirkcudbright. The
Novantes — who are supposed to have taken their name from the abundance of streams
in their country— .-possessed all central and western Galloway, between the Dee and the
Irish sea ; and had, as their principal towns, Lucqpibia on the site- of the present Whit-
horn, and Rerigoniuni on the north shore of Loch-Ryan. The Damnii inhabited all
•the expanse of country from the mountain-ridge which divides Galloway and Ayrshire
•on the south, .to the river Earn on the- north, comprehending all the shires of Ayr, Ren-
frew, and Stirling, all Strathclyde, and a small part of the shires of Dumbarton and
Perth ; and had the towns of Vanduaria on the site of Paisley, Colania in the south-
eastern extremity of Strathclyde, Coria in Carstairs, Alauna on the river Allan, Lindun
near the present Ardoch, and Victoria on Ruchil-water in Comrie. The Horestii inha-
bited the country between the Forth and the Tay, comprehending all Fife, Kinross, and
Clackmannan, the eastern part of Strathearn, and the district west of the upper Tay, as
far as the river Brand. The Venricones possessed the territory between the Tay and
the Kincardineshire Carron, comprehending the Gowrie, Stormont, Strathmore, and
Strathardle, sections of Perthshire, all Forfarshire, and the larger part of Kincardine-
shire ; and had their chief town, Or, -or Orrea, on the margin of the Tay. The Taixali
inhabited the northern part of Kincardineshire, and all Aberdeenshire to the Deveron ;
and had Devana, at the present Normandykes on the Dee, for their capital. The
Vacomagi possessed the country between the Deveron and the Beauly, comprehending
Braemar, nearly all Banffshire, the whole of Elginshire and Nairnshire, and the eastern
part of Inverness-shire ; and had the towns of Ptoroton or Alata Castra at the mouth of
the Beauly, Tuessis on the east bank of the Spey, and Tamea and Banatia in the
interior. The Albani — whose name seems to allude to the height and ruggedness of
their mountains, and who, in consequence of their becoming subjugated by the Damnii,
INTRODUCTION. lvii
were afterwards called Dammi-Albam- — •inhabited the interior districts between the
southern mountain-screen of the loch and river Tay, and the mountain-chain along the
southern limit of Inverness-shire, comprehending Breadalbane, Athole, Appin, Glenorchy,
and a small part of Lochaber. The Attacotti possessed the country between Loch-Fyne
and the commencement of the Lennox or Kilpatrick hills, comprehending Cowal and
the greater part of Dumbartonshire. The Caledonii Proper inhabited the interior country
between the mountain-range along the north of Perthshire, and the range of hills which
forms the forest of Balnagowan in Ross, comprehending all the middle parts of Ross and
Inverness. A vast forest, which extended northward of the Forth and the Clyde, and
which covered all the territory of this tribe, gave to them their name, originally Celyd-
doni and Celyddoniaid, * the people of the coverts,"" and, owing to the greatness of the
area which it occupied, occasioned its Bomanized designation of Caledonia to be after-
wards applied strictly to all the country north of the Forth and the Clyde, and loosely,
but at a later date, to the whole kingdom. The -Canta? — so named irom the British
Caint, which signifies an open country — possessed Easter Ross and Cromarty, or the
district lying between the Beauly and the Bornoch friths. The Logi — who probably
drew their name from the British Lygi, a word which was naturally applied to the inha-
bitants of a sea-ooast — possessed the eastern nart of Sutherland, or the country between
the Dornoch frith and the river Helmsdale. The Camabii, who, like a cognominal tribe
in Cornwall, derived their .name from their residence on remarkable promontories, occu-
pied the country north of the Helmsdale, or -a small part of Sutherland, and all Caith-
ness, except the north-west corner. The Catini, a small but warlike tribe, from whom
the Gaelic inhabitants of Caithness and Sutherland at the present day are ambitious of
proving their remote descent, inhabited the narrow territory, partly in Caithness and
partly in Sutherland, between the Forse and the Naver. The Mertas possessed the
interior of Sutherland. The Carnonacse possessed the north and west coast of Suther-
land, and the west coast of Cromarty, from the Navcr round to Loch-Broom. The
Creones — whose name was expressive of their fierceness — possessed the coast between
Loch-Broom and Loch-Duich. The Cerones inhabited the whole west coast of Inver-
ness, .and the Argyleshire districts of Ardnamurchan, Mor-ven, Sunart, and Ardgower,
or the coast between Loch-Duich and Loch-Linnhe. The Epidii— who derived their
appellation from the British Ebyd, 'a peninsula,' and from whom the Mull of Kintyre
anciently had the name of the Epidian promontory — occupied the whole country enclosed
by Loch-Linnhe, the territory of the Albani, Loch-Fyne, the lower frith of Clyde, the
Irish sea, and the Atlantic ocean.
The Caledonian tribes, at the epoch 'when history introduces them to notice, appear
to have been little raised, in their social connexions, above the condition of rude savages,
who live on the milk of their flocks, or the produce of the chase. According to the
doubtful and darkly-tinted intimations of Bio, indeed, they possessed wives -and reared
their children in common, they lived in the most .miserable hovels, they chose to live in
a state of almost entire nudity., and they practised, like the heroes of more ancient times,
a system of mutual plunder and professional robbery. Herodian concurs in exhibiting
them in these sombre and repulsive hues at even so late a .period as the 3d century.
Yet, according to all testimony, they *were brave, alert, and acquainted with various
arts ; they had remarkable capacity for enduring fatigue, cold, and famine : they were
famous alike for speed in conducting an -onset, and for firmness in sustaining an attack.
Their vast stone monuments, too, which still remain, their hilLforts of such ingenious
and elaborate construction as could not even now be taken by storm, and the gallant
stand which they systematically opposed to the disciplined valour of the Roman armies,
exhibit them in lights quite incompatible with an alleged state of unmitigated barbarism.
But though advanced in civilization very little beyond the first stage, they had scarcely
any political union. They are said by Dio to have been literal democrats, acting as clans,
and adopting any .public measure only by common consent, .and an universally and
equally diffused authority ; but they may be allowed, on the one hand, to have rejected
the coercion -of any chieftainship, or autocracy, or monarchic power, and, on the other,
to have placed themselves, like the American Indians, under the aristocratic sway of
their old men. Their armouries were generally furnished with helmets, shields, and
chariots, and with spears, daggers, swords, battle-axes, and bows. The chiefs in com-
mand, or in bravery, alone used the helmet and the chariot ; and the common men
fought always on foot, with shields for defence, and with all sorts of the offensive weapons
lviii INTRODUCTION.
for attack. Their chariots were sometimes aggregated for making a vehicular onslaught,
and were drawn by horses which are said to have been small, swift, and spirited. Their
vessels for navigating the inland lakes, and even the seas which surround and so singu-
larly indent the country, consisted only of canoes and currachs. The canoe seems to
have belonged to a period preceding the epoch of record ; it was the stock of a single
tree, hollowed out with fire, and put into motion by a paddle ; and it has frequently
been found in marches and drained lakes, and occasionally of a construction remarkably
skilful and polished. The currach was certainly in use among the Britons of the south,
and very probably was in use also among the Britons of Caledonia, in the days of Julius
Csesar ; aud is described by him as having it body of wicker-work covered with leather,
and as accommodated with a keel, and with masts of the lightest wood. The currachs
are even called little ships ; they were pushed boldly out into the far-spreading sea ; and
were frequently, or rather currently, employed in invasions from the wooded north or
' the Emerald Isle' upon the shores which became seized and fortified by the Romans.
Adamnan, in his Life of St. Columba, describes the currach which that apostle of
Scotland employed in his voyages, as possessing all the parts of a ship, with sails and
oars, and with a capacity for passengers ; and he adds, that in this roomy, though
seemingly fragile vessel, he sailed into the north sea, and, during fourteen days, remained
there in perfect safety.
In the year 78, Agricola, at the age of 38, commenced his skilful soldierly career in
Britain. His first and second campaigns were employed in subduing and Romanizing
Lancashire, and the territory adjacent to it on the south and the east. His third cam-
paign, conducted in the year 80, carried the Roman arms to the Tav;, ' an expanded
water,' ' an estuary,' probably the Solway frith. In his fourth campaign, or that of 81,
he overran all the eastern and central Lowlands, to the Forth and the Clyde. In his
fifth, or in 82, he invaded " that part of Britain which is opposite to Ireland," or lower
Nithsdale and the whole extent of Galloway. In the summer of 83, he crossed the
Forth at what is now called Queensferry, and almost immediately experienced alarms
from learning both that the tribes in his rear had dared to act offensively, by attacking
the strengths he had erected for protecting of his conquests, and that the tribes in his
front menaced him with confederation and a vigorous resistance ; but he pushed forward
among the Horestii, found the clans for the first time in mutual co-operation, was assailed
by them at Loch-Orr in Fife, in the very gates of his camp, repelled and broke them
after a furious engagement, and, without much further trouble, brought all the Horestii
under his yoke. In 84, he passed up Glendevon, through the opening of the Ochil-hills,
and defiling toward " Mous Grampus," or the Grampian-hill, which he saw before him,
he found the Caledonians, to the number of 30,000, confederated, and under the com-
mand of Galgacus, already encamped at its base ; and he there fought with them a
battle so obstinate, that only night forced it to a termination, so discouraging to the
aborigines that they retired to the most distant recesses of their impervious country, and
so curious in archeology as to have occasioned a thousand disputes, and no small expen-
diture of learning and research, in attempts to fix its precise theatre. The Lowlands
south of the lower Tay, and the Earn, being now all in his possession, and a powerful
body of the tribes of the conquered district enrolled with him as auxiliaries, a voyage of
discovery and of intimidation was ordered by him round the island, and was achieved by
the safe return of the Roman fleet to the Forth. Agricola was now recalled, through
the envy of the Emperor Domitian ; and the silence of history during the. 35 years which
followed, at once intimates the absence of any events of interest, and evinces the power
of Agricola's victories as a general, and the wisdom of his measures as a statesman.
In 120, the Emperor Adrian built the celebrated wall between the Tyne and the Sol-
way ; and, though he did not relinquish the conquered territory north of these waters,
he practically acknowledged himself to hold it by a partial and comparatively insecure
tenure. The Ottadini, the Gadeni, the Selgovce, and the Novantes, had neither domes-
tic tumult nor devastation from invaders to engage their attention ; they had learned the
arts of confederation, and were strong in numbers and in union ; they began to feel
neither overawed nor restrained by the Roman stations which were continued in their
territory ; and they broke out into insurrections, and ran southward in ravaging incur-
sions, which the Romans had not leisure to chastise, or even effectually to check. In
139, the year after Antoninus Pius assumed the purple, Lollius Urbicus was deputed as
the Proprcetor of Britain, to quell a general revolt, and reduce the inhabitants to
INTRODUCTION. lix
obedience ; and, in 140, he marched northward to the friths, tranquillized the tribes
beyond them, and even began successfully to bring under the power of his arms the
whole Lowland country northward, as far as the Beauly frith. With the view of over-
awing the tribes to the south, as well as of repelling the wild clans who ranged among the
mountain-fastnesses on the north, he constructed the great work from Carriden on the
Forth, to Dunglass on the Clyde, which is described in our alphabetical arrangement
under the title Antoninus' Wall. Iters, or highways, were carried in many ramifica-
tions through the country south of the wall, and in several lines along or athwart the
conquered country to the north ; and stations were established in multitudinous com-
manding positions, for garrisoning the Roman forces, and maintaining the natives under
a continual pressure. Scotland was now divided into three great sections, — the district
south of Antoninus' wall, which was incorporated with the Roman government of South
Britain, — the Lowland country, between Antoninus' wall and the Beauly frith, which is
said to have been now erected into a Roman province, under the name of Vespasiana, — ■
and nearly all the Highland district, north of Loch-Fyne, or the most northerly inden-
tation of the Clyde, which still retained its pristine state of independence, and began to
wear distinctly the name of Caledonia. The tranquillity of the subjugated tribes till the
death of Antoninus, in 161, about which time probably Lollius Urbicus ceased to be
propraetor, sufficiently indicates the vigour of the administration throughout all the
Roman territory. Disturbances which broke out immediately on the accession of Marcus
Aurelius to the empire, were speedily quelled by Calphurnius Agricola, the successor of
Lollius Urbicus ; yet they were followed by the evacuation, on the part of the Romans,
of the whole province of Vespasiana. The tribes beyond Antoninus' wall, thrown back
into a state of independence, slowly nursed their energies for invasion, — made, in 183,
predatory incursions beyond the wall, — regularly, toward the close of the century, over-
ran the Roman territory, — entered, in 200, into a treaty with the Lieutenant of Severus,
— and, in 207, renewed their hostilities, and provoked the emperor to attempt a re-con-
quest of their country. Early in 209, Severus, after making imposing preparations,
marched at the head of a vast force into North Britain, found no obstruction south of
Antoninus' wall, and even penetrated into the territories of the Caledonians without
encountering much resistance. The tribes, unable to oppose him, sued peace from his
clemency, surrendered some of their arms, and relinquished part of their country. He
is said to have felled woods, drained marshes, constructed roads, and built bridges, in
order to seize them in their fastnesses, — to have lost 50,000 men in destroying forests,
and attempting to subdue the physical difficulties of the country, — to have subjected his
army to such incredible toils as were sufficient to have brought a still greater number of
them to the grave without feeling the stroke of an enemy. Caracalla, his son and
successor, is supposed by some to have faintly, while Severus lived, followed up his
policy, and to have fought with the Caledonians on the banks of the Carron ; but early
in 211, after Severus' decease, he relinquished to them the territories which they had
surrendered to his father, secured to them by treaty independent possession of all the
country beyond the wall, and took hostages from them for their conservation of the
international peace. The Caledonians, henceforth for nearly a century, cease to mingle
in Roman story : they appear not to have interested themselves in the affairs of the
Romanized Britons ; and they were little affected by the elevation of Ctesars or the fall
of tyrants, by Carausius' usurpation of Romanic Britain, or by its recovery at his assas-
sination as a province of the empire. But the five Romanized tribes south of the
northern wall, though too inconsiderable to figure as a part of the Roman world, and for
a time too poor and abject to draw the notice of their own quondam brethren, eventually
became sufficiently Romanized, and carried onward in social improvement, and sur-
rounded with the results of incipient civilization and industry, to be objects of envy to
the poorer and more barbarous clans who retained their independence. In 306, the
earliest date at which the Picts are mentioned, or any native names than those of the
aboriginal British tribes are introduced, " the Caledonians and other Picts," after
appearing to have made frequent predatory irruptions, and to have been menacing the
south with a general invasion, provoked a chastisement from the Roman legionaries, and
were compelled by Constantius, at the head of an army, to burrow anew behind the vast
natural rampart of their Highland territory. In 343, the Picts are said, on doubtful
authority, to have made another inroad, and to have been repelled by a short campaign
of the Emperor Constans. In 364, the Picts, who in that age were divided into two
Is INTRODUCTION.
tribes by the names of Dicaledones and Vecturiones, — the Attacotti, who still retained
their ancient British name and position on the shores of Dumbarton, — and the Scots,
■who are first noticed in history in 360, who were a transmarine and erratic people from
Ireland, and who appear to have made frequent predatory invasions of the Roman pro-
vincials from the sea, and to have formed forced settlements on the coast,' — all three
simultaneously made an incursion more general and destructive than any which had yet
defied the Roman arms in Britain. Theodosius was sent, in 367, into Britain, to restore
tranquillity, and is said, though erroneously, to have found the Picts and the Scots in
the act of plundering Augusta, the predecessor-city of the modern London. In two
campaigns of 368 and 369, he drove the invaders, wherever he really found them, back
to the northern mountains, repaired the wall of Antoninus, and erected the country lying
between that wall and the southern one into a Roman province, under the name of
Valentia, additional to four which already existed in South Britain. The Picts and the
Scots, forgetting, in the effluxion of a quarter of a century the punishment inflicted on
them, and emboldened by the peril with which the empire was menaced by the conti-
nental hordes, again, in 398, burst forth like a torrent upon Lowland Britain, but, by the
energy of Stilicho, the Roman general, were again stemmed, driven back, and flung
behind another renovation of the great northern wall. But early next century they trod
down every barrier, and began a system of incessant and harassing incursion, which
amounted, on each occasion, to little or nothing less than temporary conquest. In 408,
the British provincials were so awed and alarmed by them, that they assumed a sort of
independence in self-defence, called earnestly to Rome for help, and were told by their
masters to rule and defend themselves ; in 422, aided by a legion which was sent in
compliance with a renewed and wailing cry for assistance, they are said to have repelled
the invaders, to have repaired, for the last time, the fortifications by which the Picts had
been overawed, and to have, in consequence, won a respite of some years from the dis-
asters of invasion ; and, in 446, pressed anew by the Pictish foe, and abjectly acknow-
ledging themselves for the first time to be Roman citizens, they made a vain appeal to
their ruined ma.sters for protection, and were despondingly told that Rome could no
longer claim them as her subjects, or render them assistance as their citizens.
At the period of the Roman abdication, the sixteen tribes who ranged unsubdued
beyond the wall of Antoninus, and then bore the denomination of the Picts, were the
only genuine descendants in North Britain of the Caledonian clans. They acquired,
from their independence, paramount importance, when the country ceased to be overawed
by the Roman power ; and during the four succeeding centuries of the North-British
annals, they figured as the dominating nation. The five Romanized tribes of Valentia,
who had long enjoyed the privilege of Roman citizenship, speedily assumed independence,
and organized for themselves a separate and national government. Early after the
Roman abdication, the Angles, or Anglo-Saxons, on the one hand, settled on the Tweed,
and began gradually to oblige the Ottadini to relinquish for ever their beautiful domains ;
and the Scots from Ireland, on the other, colonized Argyle, commenced to spread them-
selves over all the circumjacent districts, and entered a course of tilting with the Pictish
government, which, alter the bloody struggles of 340 years, ended m its destruction.
The history of all these four parties, between the years 446 and 843, belongs to what,
with reference to the power which predominated, may distinctively and appropriately be
called the Pictish period, and is briefly sketched in our article Picts.
The fate of the eastern ones of the five Romanized tribes of the province of Valentia
after the Roman abdication, differed widely from that of those in the west. The Ottadini
and the Gadeni, left in possession of the country from the Forth to the Tweed, and
between the sea and the midland mountains, seem not to have erected themselves into
an independent and dominant community, but to have resumed the habits and the policy
of the early British clans, and when they saw their country early invaded by the Anglo-
Saxons, more as settlers than as plunderers, they, with some bravery, but with little
skill and less concert, made resistance when attacked, till, through disunion, ebriety,
and unmilitary conduct, they speedily became subdued and utterly dispersed. The
Selgovec, the Novantes, and the Damnii, with the fugitive children of the other two
tribes, erected their paternal territories into a compact and regular dominion, appropri-
ately called Cumbria, or Regnum Cambrensi, or Cumbrensi. This Cumbrian kingdom
extended from the Irthing, the Eden, and the Solway, on the south, to the upper Forth
and Loch-Lomond on the north, and from the Irish sea and the frith of Clyde, eastward
INTRODUCTION. lxi
to the limits of the Merse and Lothian ; and, with the usual inaccuracy of the Middle
ages, it was frequently and almost currently made to bear the name of the kingdom of
Strathcluyd or Strathclyde. Its metropolis was Alcluyd, or Aldclyde, ' the rocky
height on the Clyde,' to which the Scoto-Irish subsequently gave the name of Bun-
Briton, ' the fortress of the Britons,' a name easily recognisable in the modernized word
Dumbarton. On the south-east, where the open country of Teviotdale invited easy
ingress from the Merse, the kingdom suffered speedy encroachments from the Saxons ;
and, along that quarter, though inland from the original frontier, and screened interiorly
by a vast natural rampart of mountain-range, an artificial safeguard, called the Catrail,
'the partition of defence,' was constructed: see article Catrail. From 508 to 542,
Cumbria, or Strathclyde, acknowledged the authority, and exulted in the fame of some
extraordinary original, who figures as the redoubtable King Arthur of romance, who
imposed the name of Castrum Arthuri upon Alcluyd, or Dumbarton, and has bequeathed
a tenfold greater number of enduring names to Scottish topographical nomenclature
than any other ancient prince, and who, whatever may have been the real facts of his
history, seems to have achieved many feats, to have received a treacherous death-wound
on the field of battle, and to have altogether bewildered by his character and fate the
rude and romancing age in which he figured. In 577, Rydderech, another noted king
of Strathclyde, but noted for his munificence, defeated Aidan of Kintyre on the height
of Arderyth. In years between 584 and G03, the Cumbrians, aided by the confederacy
of the Scoto-Irish, fought four battles against the intrusive and invading Saxons, and
were twice victorious, and twice and concludingly the vanquished. On many occasions,
they had to fight with the Picts attacking them from the north ; on some, with their
occasional allies, the Scots, attacking them from the west ; and, on a few, with the
Cruitlme of Ulster, and other Irish tribes, attacking them on the south-west and south.
In 750, the Northumbrian Eadbert seems to have traversed Mthsdale and seized Kyle ;
and, in 756, that prince, jointly with the Pictish Ungus, seized the metropolis, though
not the castle, of Alcluyd. Yet the descendants of the Romanized Britons were not
conquered. Their reguli, or chiefs, indeed, often ceased from civil broil or foreign con-
flict, to succeed in unbroken series ; but, when the storm of war had passed away, they
long ceased not to reappear, and wield anew the seemingly extinct power. The Cum-
brians, though unable to prevent considerable encroachments on all sides within their
ancient frontiers, and though slowly diminishing in the bulk and the power of their inde-
pendence, remained a distinct people within their paternal domains long after the Pictish
government had for ever fallen.
A body of Saxons, a people of Gothic origin, the confederates of those Angles who
first set foot on South Britain in 449, debarked on the Ottadinian shore of the Forth
immediately after the Roman abdication. Amid the consternation and the disunitedness
of the Ottadini, the new settlers rather overran the country than subdued it ; and, though
they seem to have directed neither their attacks nor their views northward of the Forth,
they are said to have formed settlements along the coast of its frith, almost as far as the
east end of Antoninus' wall. In 547, Ida, consanguineous with the new settlers, one of
the most vigorous children of the fictitious Woden, and the founder of the Northumbrian
monarchy, landed, without opposition, at Flamborough, and, acting on a previous design,
pointed his keen-edged sword to the north, carried victory with him over ail the paternal
domains of the Ottadini, and paused not in a career of conquest, and of compelling sub-
jugation, till he had established a consolidated monarchy from the Dumber to the Forth.
After the defeat of the Cumbrians in 603, Ethelfrid, the second successor of Ida, took
possession of the borders of the Selgova?, and compelled the western Romanized Britons
in general to acknowledge the superior energy and union of the Saxons. Edwin, the
most potent of the Northumbrian kings, assumed the sceptre in 617 ; he acquired a fame
of which tradition has spoken with awe ; he struck respect or awe into the hearts of
Cumbrians, Picts, Scots, and English ; he appears to have, in some points, pushed his
conquests from sea, and to have made large accessions to his kingdom on the south and
west ; and he strengthened or occupied in some new form in the north, that notable
" burgh " or fortification which, as par excellence his, survives in the castle of Edinburgh,
the magnificent metropolis of all modern Caledonia. Edfrid, who was the third in sub-
sequent succession, and ascended the throne in 671, was successful in several enterprises,
particularly in an expedition in 684, against the unoffending Irish ; but at his overthrow
and death in 685, at Dunnichen, by the Picts, he bequeathed destruction to his govern-
lxii INTRODUCTION.
ment inward from the Solway, and downward to the south of the Tweed, and effectually
relieved the Scots and the Strathclyde Britons from the terror of the Northumbria-
Saxon name. The quondam subjects of the diminished kingdom remained in Lothian
and the Merse, but probably did not distinctly acknowledge any particular sovereign.
The Northumbrian rulers had, for several successions after Egfrid, little connexion with
the territory of modern Scotland ; but, though they never reacquired all the ascendency
which he lost, they began, about the year 725, to be again strong along the Solway and
in Southern Galloway, and, before the close of 756, they had formed settlements in
Kyle and Cunningham, and disputed with the Strathclyde Britons the possession of the
central Clyde. From the moment of the sceptre beginning to possess its ancient bur-
nished brilliance, it was wielded, for several reigns, by feeble and careless hands, and it
speedily became lustreless, rusted, and broken. Ethelred, the last of these dowdy
monarchs, having been slain during an insurrection in 794, Northumbria, during the 33
following years, became the wasted and distracted victim of anarchy, and was thence-
forth governed by earls, under the sovereign authority of the English kings. The
Cruithne of Ulster, who had made frequent incursions on the shores of the lower Clyde,
took advantage of the Northumbrian weakness to form at length a lasting settlement on
the coast of Galloway. The Anglo-Saxons, during the Pictish period, left, in the Gothic
names of some places on the Solway, and of many between the Tweed and the Forth,
indubitable traces of their conquests, their settlements, and their national origin.
The history of the Scots, or Scoto-Irish, from the date of their definitive settlement
in the country of the ancient British Epidii, in 503, to that of their being united to the
Picts, and becoming the ascendant section in North Britain, is more perplexed and
obscure than almost any passage of equal interest in the records of nations. They were
too rude to possess the art of writing, and too restless to endure the repose of study ; and
when they found a bard able and willing to speak of them to posterity, they were per-
mitted by their narrow views of social order to show him only the names and the per-
sonal nobleness of their reguli and chieftains as the elements of their fame. Even
the genealogy and the series of their kings have been flung into nearly inextricable
confusion by the contests of the Scottish and of the Irish antiquaries for pre-eminence
in antiquity. Of their origin, and of their colonizing the ancient Epidia, or the territory
of the present Kintyre and Lorn, as clear an account as can be furnished will be found
in our article Daleiads. They probably obtained original footing in Argyle from silent
sufferance ; and by natural increase, and frequent accessions of new immigrants from the
Irish Dalriada, they may have become nursed into strength in the strong recesses of the
west, before the Picts were refined enough to suspect any danger from their vicinity. The
vast natural power of all their frontiers, the thinness of the hostile population on the
sides where they were unprotected by the sea, the facility for slow and insensible, but
steady and secure encroachment among the mountain districts on the east and the north,
the great distance of the seat of the Pictish power, and the intervention of the stupen-
dous rampart of the Highland frontier between the operations of that power and the
aggressions of settlement or slow invasion half-way across the continent,- — these must
have been the grand causes of the Scots eventually acquiring energy and numbers, and
a theatre of action, great and ample enough to enable them to cope with the dominant-
nation of North Britain, and to conduct negociations and achieve enterprises, which
resulted in their own ascendency.
Kenneth, who succeeded to the throne of the Scots in 836, was the grandson by his
mother of the Pictish kings Constantine and Ungus II., who died respectively in 821 and
833. On the death of Uven, the son and the last male heir of Ungus, in 839, Kenneth
claimed the Pictish crown as his by right of inheritance. Two successive and successful
competitors kept it five years from his grasp ; but both wore it amid disturbance and in
misery ; and the last met a violent death at Forteviot, the seat of his power. Kenneth
could dexterously take advantage of such confusions as arose from the loss of a battle
or the death of a king, to achieve an important revolution ; and finding no man bold
enough again to contest his claim, he easily stepped into the vacant throne. In his
person a new dynasty, and a consolidation of popular interests among two great people
who had hitherto been at variance, began. The Scots and the Picts were congenial
races of a common origin, and of cognate tongues ; and they readily coalesced. Their
union augmented the power of both, and, by the ascendency of the Scots, gave at length
their name to all Pictavia and Dalriada, and to the accessions which afterwards were
INTRODUCTION. Ixili
made by the two great united territories. The Scottish period, or that of Scottish
ascendency previous to Saxon intermixture, extended from the union of the Scottish and
the Pictish crowns in 843, to the demise of Donald Bane, in 1097. During this period,
the ancient territories of the SelgovEe, the Novantes, and the Damnii, became colonized
by successive hordes of immigrants from Ireland, who gave their settlements the name
of Galloway ; and who, by a strange fortune, became known under the appellation of the
ancient Picts. The kingdom of Cumbria, or Strathclyde, was crushed, distorted, and
dismembered, the northern part passing completely under the Scottish dominion, and
the southern part asserting a rude, subordinate independence, and existing as an
appendage of the Scottish crown by the doubtful ties of an obscure title ; and Caledonian
Northumbria, or the beautiful district of Lothian and the Merse, after a series of bloody
struggles for upwards of two centuries and a half, became integrated with Scotland by
the lasting connection of rightful cession and mutual advantage.
The next great period is the Scoto-Saxon, extending from 1097 to 1306. In the'
former period, the Gaelic Scots predominated ; in this, the Saxon- English, or Anglo-
Saxon. A new people now came in upon the old ; a new dynasty ascended the throne ;
a new jurisprudence gradually prevailed ; new ecclesiastical establishments were settled ;
and new manners and a new speech overspread the land. Malcolm Canmore, the last
but two of the strictly Scottish kings, married an Anglo-Saxon princess, and became
the father of Edgar, who, by means of an Anglo-Norman army, and after a fierce con-
test, enforced his title to a disputed crown, and commenced the Scoto-Saxon dynasty.
Under Malcolm Canmore, the domestics and relations of his queen aided her powerful
influence round the royal seat in introducing Saxon notions ; some Saxon barons fled,
with their dependants, into Scotland, from the violence of the Norman conquest ;
numerous fugitives were afforded an asylum by the king, from insurrections which he
fomented in the north of England ; vast numbers of young men and women were forcibly
driven northward by him during his incursions into Northumberland and Durham ; and
preliminary movements, to a great aggregate amount, and with a great cumulative
influence, were made toward a moral and social revolution. When Edgar, aided by the
results of these movements, brought in a force from without altogether foreign in speech
and character to the Scots, and entirely competent in power to overawe them, and per-
functorily to settle their disputes by placing their leader on the throne, he rendered the
revolution virtually complete — introducing in a mass a commanding number of foreign
followers to mix with the native population, and treat them as inferiors, and throwing
open a broad ingress for a general Anglo-Saxon, Anglo-Norman, and Anglo-Belgic
colonization. So great and rapid was the influx of the new people, that, in the reign of
David I., the second in succession after Edgar, men and women of them are said — ■
somewhat hyperbolically, no doubt — to have been found, not only in every village, but in
every house, of the Scottish, or Scoto-Saxon, dominions. So powerful though peaceful
an invasion, was necessarily a moral conquest, a social subjugation ; and its speedy
aggregate result was to suppress the Celtic tongue and customs, or coop them up within
the fastnesses of the Highlands, — to substitute an Anglo-Norman jurisprudence for the
Celtic modes of government, — and to erect the pompous and flaunting fabrics and ritual
of Roman Catholicity upon the ruins of the simple though eventually vitiated Culdeeism
which had so long been the glory at once of Pict, of DaLriadic Scot, of Romanized
Briton, and of Galloway Cruithne.
At the accession of Edgar, or the commencement of the Scoto-Saxon period, Scotland,
with the exception of its not claiming the western and the northern islands, possessed
nearly its present limits, — the Solway, the Kershope, the Tweed, and the intervening
heights forming the boundary-line with England. Northumberland and Cumberland
were added as conquered territories by David I. ; but they were demanded back, or
rather forcibly resumed, by Henry II., during the minority of Malcolm IV. All Scot-
land may be viewed as temporarily belonging to England, when Henry II. made captive
William I., the successor of Malcolm IV., and obliged him to surrender the independ-
ence of his kingdom ; but, in 1189, it was restored to its national status by the genero-
sity of Richard I., and settled within the same limits as previous to William's captivity;
and throughout the remainder of the Scoto-Saxon period, it retained an undisturbed
boundary with England, conducive to the general interests of both kingdoms. Lothian
on the east, and Galloway on the south-west, were, at this epoch, regarded by foreign
powers as two considerable integral parts of Scotland ; and though so far consolidated
lxiV INTRODUCTION.
with the rest of the country as to afford but slight appearance of having been settled by
dissimilar people and governed by different laws,, yet they were so far considered and
treated by the kings as separate territories, that they were placed under distinct juris-
dictions. In 1266, the policy of Alexander III. acquired by treaty the kingdom of Man,
and the isles of the Hebridean seas, and permanently annexed the latter to the Scottish
crown. When the great barons were assembled in 1284, dolefully to settle the dubious
succession to the throne, they declared that the territories belonging to Scotland, and
lying beyond the boundaries which existed at the accession of Edgar, wer© the Isle of
Man, the Hebrides, Tynedale, and Penrith.. In 1290, the Isle of Man passed under the
protection of Edward I. Even essential Scotland, the main territory of the kingdom,
was so deeply imperilled at the close of the Anglo-Saxon period, that she could be pre-
served from the usurping and permanent grasp of insidious ambition only by a persever-
ing and intensely patriotic straggle ; and she was at length re-exhibited and settled down
in her independence, and reinstamped, but in brighter hues,, with the colourings of
nationality, by the magnanimity and the indomitableness of her people supporting all
the fortune and all the valour of Robert Bruce,, the founder of a new dynasty of her
kings, and the introducer of a new epoch in her history. An outline of her annals from
the days of Bruce downward, sufficiently full to be in keeping with that which we have
now sketched of the earlier periods, will be found in the historical section of our article
on Edinburgh.
" Little more than a century ago," says an elegant writer, " Scotland was considered
by her southern neighbours as only partially civilized : the violence of the early reformers
was still remembered as more allied to savage than to social morality. Latterly, how-
ever, if it has not received adequate respect from others — which we are far from affirm-
ing— it has done ample justice to itself, in the number, merit, and universal influence of
the great characters which it has produced, and is still producing. In this respect —
considering its very limited population — it may freely challenge comparison with any
other nation. Scotchmen — whether invidiously designated as adventurers, or, more
justly, as practical moralists — by their intrepid spirit of adventure — perseverance —
suavity — and inflexible integrity, have extended the influence of civilization and
humanity over the vast empire of Russia — have imparted to the Americans much of
what they possess of moral honesty and civil refinement- — and, in almost every country
on earth, given examples of probity, industry, and knowledge ; while their poets, histo-
rians, and philosophers, have amused, instructed, and enlightened the higher ranks in
every civilized nation of Europe." It is pleasing to add to the above high testimony on
the score of moral and chivalrous characteristics, the following elegant tribute from an
English poet :
" Breathe there a race that from the approving hand
Of nature more deserve, or less demand ?
So skilled to wake the lyre or wield the sword —
To achieve great actions, or, achieved, record?
Victorious in the conflict as the truce,
Triumphant in a Burns as in a Bruce !
Where'er the bay — where'er the laurel grows,
Their wild notes warble, and their life-blood flows E
There truth courts access, and would all engage,
Lavish as youth, experienced as age ;
Proud science there, with purest nature twined,
In firmest thraldom holds the freest mind :
While Courage rears his limbs of giant form —
Mocks the rude blast, and strengthens in the storm !
Rome felt — and Freedom to their craggy glen
Transferred that title proud — the Nurse of Men !
By deeds of hazard, high and bold emprise,
Trained, like their native eagle, for the skies !
" Long, Scotia stern ! thy bugle note resume —
Grasp thy claymore — thy plaided bonnet plume !
From hill and dale — from hamlet, heath, and wood,
Peal the wild pibroch — pour the battle flood !
' In Egypt, India, Belgium, Gaul, and Spain,'
Walls in the trenches — whirlwinds on the plain ! —
This meed accept from Albion's grateful breath —
Brothers in arms — in victory. — in death 1"
■*#T
GAZETTEER OF SCOTLAND.
ABB
ABBEY, a name frequently given in Scottish to-
pography to a village or hamlet which has been
founded upon or near the site of some ancient mon-
astic establishment. Thus we have a village called
The Abbey in the neighbourhood of the abbey of
Cambuskenneth ; and another of the same name upon
the banks of the Tyne, about a mile below the town
of Haddington, marking the site of a once nourishing
abbey, but of which scarcely a trace now remains.
The palace of Holyrood is also known throughout
Scotland, and most significantly in Scottish law, as
The Abbey, par excellence : having been reared
within the precincts of a famous monastery, the
liberty or sanctuary of which, being recognised by
law, affords a retreat for insolvent debtors within
which thev cannot be arrested.
ABBEY PARISH. See Paisley.
ABBEY ST BATHAN'S, a parish in the north-
ern part of Berwickshire ; bounded on the north by
the parish of Innerwick in Haddingtonshire, and
Cockburnspath in Berwickshire; on the east by
that detached portion of Oldhamstocks which lies
in Berwickshire, and by Coldingham; on the south
by B uncle, a detached portion of Longformacus par-
ish, and Dunse ; and on the west by Longformacus,
and another detached portion of the parish of Old-
hamstocks. It is skirted on the east by the head-
stream of the Eye, and is intersected by the White-
adder, and some of its smaller tributaries. It is of a
very irregular outline ; and measures nearly 6 miles
in its greatest length from north-west to south-east ;
and 4 miles in its greatest length from north-east to
south-west. It contains about 5,000 acres, of which
nearly 2,000 are arable ; the remainder is covered
with barren heath or the coarse moorland pasture
common to the Lammermoor district within which
this parish lies. The best soil is that of the haugh-
ground stretching along both sides of the Whiteadder,
which flows through the southern part of this parish
horn west to east, passing to the north of the kirk-
town, which is about 7 miles north by west of Dunse.
Population, in 1801, 138; in 1831, 122, of whom
nearly all were employed in agriculture. Houses 23.
A. P. £1,2.38. — This parish is in the presbytery of
Dunse. and synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Stipend
£155 9s. 3d., of which £61 ]2s. lid. from teinds.
Glebe £13. Patron, the Crown. Schoolmaster's sal-
ary £36 8s. Fees £12. The church is a very an-
cient structure. Of the abbey or priory, which stood
between the church and the river, no vestige now
exists. It was founded and dedicated to St Bathan
or Bothan, by one of the countesses of March, in
ABB
1170, tor nuns of the Cistercian order; and soon ac-
quired large revenues. About two furlongs east
from the church, and on the same side of the river,
in a field called the Chapel-field, were the now ob-
literated remains of a small chapel ; and about a mile
to the north-west were the remains, now likewise
obliterated, of the parish-church of Strafontane —
probably a corruption of Trois Fontaines — united at
the Reformation to St Bathan's, and originally an
hospital founded by David I. — A little to the north-
west of Strafontane, near the banks of the Monynut,
a tributary of the Whiteadder, is Gadscroft, once
the demesne of David Hume, the friend of Mel-
ville, who died in 1620 The Earl of Wemyss has a
hunting-box about a mile south of the kirk-town.
ABBEY-CRAIG, a hill in the parish of Logie, in
the vicinity of Cambuskenneth abbey, on which the
Scottish army was posted under Wallace, when the
Earl of Surrey and Hugh Cressingham advanced to
the battle of Stirling, on 12th September, 1297.
ABBEY-GREEN. See Lesmahago.
ABBOTSRULE, formerly a parish in Roxburgh-
shire, now divided between Hobkirk and Southdean
parishes. It stretched about 3 miles along the east-
ern side of the upper part of the Rule, from Black-
eleugh Mouth to Fultonhaugh.
ABBOTSFORD, the far-famed country-seat of
ourgreat national Novelist. It is situated in the south-
western part of the parish of Melrose, in the county
of Roxburgh, on the southern bank of the Tweed,
a little above the junction of the Gala Water; 2
miles south-east of the town of Galashiels, 34| south
of Edinburgh. The road from Melrose to Selkirk
passes close to it. With the exception of the site
itself, which looks out upon the river flowing imme-
diately beneath, and a beautiful haugh on the oppo-
site bank backed with the green hills of Ettrick
forest, Abbotsford owes its name and all its attrac-
tions to its late illustrious proprietor. Before his
genius began to transform the place to what it
now is — a fairy scene, ' a romance in stone and lime'
— a mean farm-stead called Cartley-Hole occupied
this spot. Sir Walter, on becoming proprietor of
the demesne, changed its name to Abbotsford, rear-
ed by slow degrees his elegant and picturesque man-
sion upon it, and laid out and planted the surrounding
grounds with singular taste and effect:
" Well might we deem that wizard wand
Had set us down in fairy land."
Descriptions of Abbotsford are so rife that we shall
not add to their number ; but content ourselves with
referring our readers to the pages of the Anniversary
A
ABB
ABB
for 1829, where they will find a most graphic and
interesting description of this hallowed spot, from the
pen of one whose genius enabled him exquisitely to
sympathize with the taste of the gifted owner. The
master-spirit has departed ; but his memory will con-
tinue to cast a consecrating radiance around Abbots-
lord as long as the visions of our fancy shall be peopled
with the creatures of his inexhaustible imagination.
ABBOTSHALL, a parish of Fifeshire, touching
on its south coast; bounded on the north by Auchter-
derran; on the east by Kirkcaldy; on the south by
the frith of Forth, and Kinghorn ; and on the west
oy Kinghorn, and Auchtertool. Its greatest length,
.measured from Kirkcaldy links to near Shawsmill
in Auchterderran parish, in a line from south-east to
north-west, is nearly 4 miles ; its greatest breadth
about 2i miles. The area is nearly 3,166 Scotch
acres, of which about a sixth part is in wood,
chiefly around the seat of Mr Ferguson of Raith, the
principal proprietor. The soil is light, but fertile
and well-cultivated. The face of the country rises
gradually as we proceed northwards; but dips again
towards Auchterderran and Auchtertool. The prin-
cipal stream is the Tiel, which rises a little to the
north-west of Auchtertool, and flows in a south-east
direction, forming the boundary between the parishes
of Abhotshall and Kinghorn. Raith loch is an artifi-
cial sheet of water formed by damming up the stream-
let which issues from Camilla loch in Auchtertool ;
it covers about 20 acres, and discharges itself into the
Tiel. The kirk-town may he considered as a pro-
longation to the westwards of the long straggling
town of Kirkcaldy. It is called Linktown ; is a
burgh of regality under Ferguson of Raith ; and has
two annual fairs, viz., on the 3d Friday of April, and
of October. A more recently "built portion is called
the Newtown. Population of the parish, in 1801,
2,501 ; in 1831, 4,206. Houses 494. A. P. £65
32s. The population of this parish increased by 939
betwixt the years 1821 and 1831, chiefly in conse-
quence of the introduction of flax-spinners from Ire-
land. About 60 hands are employed in fishing, and
1 00 in agriculture. There were 709 hand-looms with-
in the parish in 1838 This parish was disjoined from
Kirkcaldy in 1650. It is in the presbytery of Kirk-
caldy, and synod of Fife. Stipend .£199 lis. Ild.
Glebe £36. Patron, the laird of Raith. Church
built in 1788. Sittings 825. Schoolmaster's salary
.•£34 4s. 4i-d., with about £35 fees, and .£25 from
other sources : he has also a house and garden. About
J 40 children attend the parish-school; and about
300 attend other schools. A new church and par-
ish has been recently erected at Invertiel, in the
parish of Kinghorn ; and a portion of Abbotshall, with
a population of nearly 900, annexed to the new quoad
nacra parish. There is a United Secession church at
Bethelfield, which was established 100 years ago. The
present place of worship was built in 1836. Sittings
1 ,096 This parish is said to have derived its name
from an abbot of Dunfermline having built a country
house near the site of the present church. A fine yew-
tree within the gardens of Raith is thought to mark
the locality of the abbot's hall, which was for some
time the property of the Scotts of Balwearie, whose
family, according to Sibbald, had held their paternal
domain within this parish for a period of at least 500
years. , This parish has, therefore, the honour of
being the reputed birth-place of that arch-magician,
Sir Michael Scott; yet, strange to say, tradition is
here nearly silent regarding him. The mansion-
house of Raith is a handsome edifice, surrounded
by beautifully laid-out grounds. See Balwkabie.
ABB'S HEAD (St), a bold promontory on the
coast of Berwickshire, in N. lat. 55° 56';' and W.
long. 1° 56'; 2 miles north-north-east from Coldirjffr
ham, and 4 miles north-west from the port of Ey-
mouth. It consists of a huge isolated mass ot trap
rock, opposing a perpendicular front of nearly 300
feet in height to the billows of the German ocean ;
on two other sides the point of the headland is near
ly equally precipitous; on the fourth it is divided
from the mainland by a deep fosse. Tradition re-
lates that, early in the 9th century, Ebba, daughter
of Ethelfred, king of Northumberland, fleeing from
the amorous suit of Pehda, the Pagan king of Mer-
cia, was shipwrecked on this coast, and built a nunnery
on this headland in token of gratitude for her preser-
vation. Of this building no remains are now dis-
cernible; but within the memory of man there were
some relics of the chapel and cemetery attached t6 it
on an eminence about a mile to the east.
ABDIE, a parish in the north of Fife. It is not
altogether contiguous ; but the larger portion is
bounded on the north by part of Newburgh, and the
estuary of the Tay; on the east" by Flisk, Dunbog,
and Monimail ; on the south by Collessie ; and on
the west by Collessie, part of Newburgh, Auchter-
muchty, and Abernethy. Measured from the Tay,
near Lindores abbey, to near Pathcondie in Collessie,
it is 5 miles in length; measured from its extreme
eastern to its extreme western point, it is about 6 ;
but its outline is very irregular ; one section of it is
separated on the west, by the parish of Dunbog, from
the main portion ; and another portion is cut off, on
the east, by the intervention of Newburgh parish.
The area is nearly 7,624 imperial acres, of which
about 6,000 are under cultivation. The finest land
lies along the Tay ; here it is a rich alluvial deposit ;
but the high grounds inland are to a considerable ex-
tent covered only with furze and heath. The sur-
face of this parish presents a varied succession of hill
and dale. The highest elevation is Norman's Law,
in the eastern isolated portion, which rises to the
height of 850 feet, with a bold precipitous front, and
commands a fine view of the frith of Tay, and the
carse of Gowrie on the opposite shore, and the vale
of the Eden on the south and east. Clatchard Craig,
near Newburgh, is also a remarkable basaltic rock,
presenting a precipitous front towards the east. The
loch of Lindores, near the centre of the parish, is a
beautiful sheet of water nearly a mile in length,
covering about 70 acres, fed by a small stream called
Priest's Burn, and discharging its waters into the Tay
at Lindores. It abounds in perch, pike, eels, and
aquatic fowl. At this latter place are the remains
of an old castle, which is noticed in Harry the
Ministrel's History of Wallace, and near to which,
Balfour relates, a battle was fought in June 1300,
between the Scots, under that puissant leader, and
the English, in which the latter was routed with a
loss of 3,000 slain. This engagement is known as the
battle of Blackearnside. The finest mansion in the
parish is that of Inchrye, the seat of David Wilson,
Esq., a little to the west of the loch of Lindores.
The old mansion-house of Lindores, near the loch,
was the seat of the ancient and noble family of Les-
lie. The most extensive proprietor is D. Maitland
M'Gill, Esq., of Nether Rankeilour and Lindores;
but Lord Dundas, now Earl of Zetland, has the
highest rental. Population, m 1801, 723; in 1831,
870, of which about one-third were employed in
agriculture. A. P. £7,904. Houses 169 This
parish is in the presbytery of Cupar, and synod of
Fife. Stipend £233 9s. Glebe £23. Patron, the
Earl of Mansfield. Church built in 1827. _ Sittings
550. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4i-d, with about
£17 fees. Average number of schofavs 35. The
old church was a narrow ill-lighted building; its
ruins on the western shore of the loch of Lin-
dores show some vestiges of antiquity, and several
ABE
ABE
monuments of the family of Balfour of Denmiln, now
represented by Lord Belhaven Among the names
of eminence connected with this parish is that of Sir
James Balfour, Lyon-king-at-arnis, under Charles I.,
and a well-known writer on antiquities and heraldry.
He resided at Kinnaird house; and died in 1657.
ABERBROTHWICK. See Arbroath.
ABERCORN, aparish of Linlithgowshire, stretch-
ing 4 miles along the south side of the frith of Forth ;
and bounded on the east by Dalmeny ; on the south
by Kirkliston, a detached portion of Dalmeny, and
Ecclesmachan ; and on the west by Linlithgow, and
Carriden. Its average breadth is 2 miles. The sur-
face is undulating, and finely wooded ; but the only
considerable elevations are Binns hill in the western,
and Priestinch in the south-eastern quarter of the
parish. The principal stream is the Nethermill or
Midhope burn which falls into the sea near the kirk.
The Union canal runs about H mile through the
south-west corner of this parish. The principal pro-
prietor is the Earl of Hopetoun, whose seat — a truly
princely mansion, and the last visited by royalty in
Scotland — occupies a fine situation on the coast, a
little to the east of the kirk. Population, in 1801,
814 ; in 1881, 1,013. Houses 172. A. P. £7,722.—
This parish is in the presbytery of Linlithgow, and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Stipend £188 15s.
2d. Glebe £16. Patron, the Earl of Hopetoun.
Schoolmaster's salary £34. School fees £36. There
are two or three private schools. Bede notices the
monastery of Abercorn as the residence of a bishop.
No remains of it now exist ; nor of Abercorn castle,
which was dismantled in 1455, during the rebellion
of one of the doughty Douglases. The estate of
Abercorn, in this parish, which gives title to the
Marquis of Abercorn, belonged to Sir John Graham,
the ' fidus Achates' of Wallace, who fell in the bat-
tle of Falkirk, in 1298. Binns was the family-seat
of ' the bloody Dalzell," and is still in the possession
of his descendants.
ABERCROMBIE, or St Monance, a small pa-
rish of Fife, on the northern shore of the frith of
Forth, nearly opposite North Berwick law in East
Lothian. It is bounded on the north by Carnbee ;
on the east by Carnbee, and Pittenweem, from which
it is divided by the Dreel burn; and on the west by
Elie, and Kilconquhar, from both of which it is divided
by the In weary rivulet. It is about 1^ mile in length
from north to south, by 1 in breadth". The area is
about 800 acres, of which nearly the whole are arable
and cultivated. The surface is flat. The principal
proprietors are Sir Ralph Abercromby Anstruther,
Bart., of Balcaskie, and Sir Wyndham Carmichael
Anstruther, Bart., of Anstruther. The village of
St Monance is situated close upon the coast, about
li mile west of Pittenweem. It is a burgh of bar-
ony held under the laird of Newark. It has a small
harbour, now resorted to only by one or two barks
of small burden and some fishing-boats. Population,
in 1801,852; in 1831, 1,110. A. P. £2,616. Houses
161. In 1831, 69 men belonging to this parish were
employed in fishing, and 21 in coal-mines; and 30
families in agricultural operations. — This parish is
in the presbytery of St Andrews, and synod of Fife.
Stipend £162 0. lid., of which £32 19s. 4d. is re-
ceived from the Exchequer. Glebe not valued. Pa-
tron, the Crown. Schoolmasters salary £34 4s. 4^d.
Fees £44 10s. Average number of scholars 100.
There is a private school with about an equal atten-
dance. The old kirk of Abercromby is in ruins, and
has not been used as a place of worship for two cen-
turies. It is in the northern part of the parish, and
is the burying-place of the Balcaskie family. The
church now in use is situated at the west end of the
village of St Monance, close upon the beach. It is
a Gothic edifice, originally founded in the 14th cen-
tury, and, till recently renovated, presenting a sin-
gularly antique appearance in its interior furnishings
as well as externally. It is now a very handsome
place of worship, seated for 528, and preserving as
much of its ancient outline as was found consistent
with modern ideas of comfort. It is related that David
II. having been grievously wounded by a barbed
arrow, and miraculously cured at the tomb of St
Monance at Inverray, dedicated this chapel to him,
and granted thereto the lands of Easter Birnie.
Keith says : " This chapel, which was a large and
stately building of hewn stone, in form of a cross,
with a steeple in the centre, was given to the Black
friars, by James III., in 1460-80. The wall of the
south and north branches of this monastery" — hi
adds — " are still standing, but want the roof; am.
the east end and steeple serve for a church to the
parishioners." This parish was known by the name
of Abercrombie so far back as 1174. In 1646 the
lands of Newark constituting the barony of St Mon-
ance were disjoined from Kilconquhar, and annexed
quoad sacra to Abercrombie. The parish thus en-
larged received the designation of Abercrombie with
St Monance. In the course of years, and with the
decline of the village of Abercrombie and rise of that
of Monance, the old title disappeared altogether, and
the parish came to be known as that of St Monance,
as it is still pretty generally designated, although the
old title of Abercrombie has been revived for the
last thirty years at the wish of the principal heritor.
ABERDALG1E, a landward parish of Perthshire,
bounded on the north by Tippermuir ; on the east
by Perth, and part of Forteviot; on the south by
Forgandenny and the western detached portion of
Forteviot ; and on the west by Forteviot and Tipper-
muir. Its average length from east to west is 2^ miles ;
its breadth 2 ; area about 2,800 acres. The surface
rises gradually from the Erne river which runs along
its southern boundary. The soil is in- general fertile,
but in some districts very thin. The whole parish
is the property of the Earl of KinnouJ, whose ances-
tors acquired it in 1625 from the Earl of Morton.
Duplin castle, the seat of the Earl, was burnt down
in 1827 ; but has been rebuilt in a style of great
magnificence. Population, in 1801, 542; in 1831,
434. Houses 68. The decrease in population is
attributable to the enlargement of farms and the
demolition of cottages. A. P. £4,893. — This parish
is in the presbytery of Perth, and synod of Perth and
Stirling. Stipend £157 19s. 4d. Glebe £24. Pa-
tron, the Earl of Kinnoul. Schoolmaster's salary
£34 4s. 4id., with about £14 fees. Scholars about
60. The parish of Duplin was united to this parish
in 1618. The present church was built in 1773.
A vault at the east end is the burying-place of the
Kinnoul family. The battle of Duplin was fought
in this parish, August 12th, 1332: see Ddplin.
ABERDEEN, the capital of Aberdeenshire, and
the third town in importance in Scotland, consists,
strictly speaking, of two distinct towns, the Old and
the New, situated at the distance of about a mile
from each other, in different parishes, and having dis-
tinct charters and privileges, but included within the
same parliamentary boundary, and uniting in return-
ing one member to parliament. The population of
the united towns, in 1707, was 6,500; in 1801, 27,608;
in 1831, 58,019; in 1841, 63,262.
Ou> Aberdeen is a burgh of barony, the seat
of a university, and formerly of a bishop's see. It is
situated on the right or south bank of the river Don,
to the north of New Aberdeen, in the parish of Old
Machar. The population of the city, as distinct from
the parish, is about 2,000. It is a place of great an-
tiquity, and was of considerable importance towards
ABERDEEN.
the end of the 9th century. David I., in 1154, trans-
lated the episcopal see from Mortlach to this place,
and granted " to God and the blessed Mary, St Machar,
and Nectarius, bishop of Aberdeen, the haill village of
Old Aberdon." Malcolm IV., William the Lion, and
James IV., successively confirmed and enlarged the
original charter, and conferred extensive grants of
lands and teinds on the bishop of Aberdeen. On the
abolition of Episcopacy, the right of appointing magis-
trates fell to the Crown ; and, in 1723, a warrant of
the Privy council authorized the then magistrates to
elect their successors in office in future. Previous
to the late municipal alterations, the council, including
the provost, four bailies, and a treasurer, consisted of
19 members. The limits of the burgh are ill-defined.
In 1834, there were 64 inhabitants of the burgh
whose rents were £10 and upwards; and 94 whose
rents were £5 and under £10. The revenue of the
burgh, in 1832, was £43 5s; the expenditure £14
16s. 6d. The burgh has no debts, and little pro-
perty : the latter consisting oidy of a right of com-
monty in a moss, and a freedom hill lying north of
the Don, the Town-house, feu-duties, customs, and
a sum of £310. The magistrates are trustees of
£2,791 13s. 4d., three per cent, consols, being
a proportion of a bequest left by Dr. Bell to found
a school upon the Madras plan ; and also of Mit-
chell's hospital, endowed in 1801, for maintaining
five widows and five unmarried daughters of bur-
gesses. There are seven incorporated crafts, but no
guildry. Old Aberdeen is a place of little trade.
The market is on Thursday ; and there are fairs on
the last Thursday of April, and the third Tuesday of
October.
The Town-house is a neat building, erected to-
wards the close of last century. The Trades' hos-
pital, built on the site of the Mathurine convent,
was founded in 1533 by Bishop Dunbar. There are
no remains of the Bishop's palace. The Cathedral
was originally founded in 1154 ; but having become
ruinous, it was demolished, and a splendid new one
founded by Bishop Kinni month in 1357. It is said
to have been seventy years in progress, but it does not
appear to have ever been completed. The nave is
used as the parish-church. It underwent some re-
pairs in 1832. It is 135 feet in length, by 64 in
breadth. The western window is a very fine one ;
and the ceiling is of oak beautifully carved. Grose
has given a view of this building. It is said to have
contained a valuable library which was destroyed at
the Reformation. There are some curious arid splen-
did monuments in the interior.
The King's college, the chief ornament of the
place, is a large and stately fabric, situated at a little
distance from the town on the east side. It appears
that there existed, so long ago as the reign of Mal-
colm IV., a " Studium generate in cvllegio canonico-
rum Aberdoniensiuni," which subsisted till the founda-
tion of this college by Bishop Elphinstone. In 1494,
Pope Alexander VI., by a bull dated February 10th,
instituted, in the city of Old Aberdon, or Aberdeen,
an university, or " Studium generate et Universitas
studii generalis," for theology, canon and civil law,
medicine, the liberal arts, and every lawful faculty ;
and privileged to grant degrees. James IV. applied
for this bull on the supplication of Bishop Elphinstone,
who is considered as the founder. But though the
bull was granted in 1494, the college was not founded
till the year 1505. It was dedicated to St Mary;
but, being taken under the immediate protection
of the king, it was denominated King's colltge.
James IV. and Bishop Elphinstone endowed it with
large revenues; which were still further increased
by James VI. who endowed it with the parsonage
and vicarage of St. Machar, and various other
possessions ; and Charles I. attempted to unite it
with Marischal college, and gifted the bishop's house
to the principal. The income of King's college in
1836. derived from endowments, was £1,215 ; from
Crown grants£l, 148. In 1840 this college received the
munificent bequest of £11,000 from the estate of the
late Dr. Simpson of Worcester. Upon the abolition
of Episcopacy, the patronage became vested in the
Crown. Thebuildingis ancient, and contains achapel,
in which the body of the founder is deposited, a library,
museum, common hall, rooms for the lectures, and a
long uniform range of modern houses for the accom-
modation of the professors. Considerable additions
and repairs were made on the buildings in 1827. The
library contains about 30,000 volumes ; and is entitled
to a copy of all the books entered at Stationers' hall
The chapel is open during the session for the accom
modation of the professors and students. It seats
from 300 to 350. Behind is the garden of the college,
and the principal's house and garden. The session lasts
twenty-one weeks, beginning in November. The
officers are, a chancellor, who is generally a nobleman,
a rector, a principal, a sub-principal, and a procurator
who has charge of the funds. The Senatus Acade-
micus elect to all the offices of the university, with
the exception of the professorship of oriental languages
appointed by the Crown, and that of divinity, which is
in the patronage of the synod of Aberdeen. The sen-
ate also assumes the power of expulsion. There are
nine professorships — humanity, Greek, mathematics,
natural philosophy, logic and moral philosophy, orien-
tal languages, civil law, medicine, and divinity. The
number of students, exclusive of medical students,
attending King's college annually, on an average of
the last ten years, has been 365. There are 128 bur-
saries of from £5 to £50 per annum. The annual
amount paid under this bead is £1,643. Hector
Boethius was the first principal of this college, and
was sent for from Paris for that purpose, on a salary
of 40 merks Scots, equal about to £2 3s. 4d. In
the first report of the University commissioners,
published in 1838, it is recommended that the two
universities of Aberdeen shall be united into one
university, to be called ' The United University of
Aberdeen;' but that King's college and Marischal
college shall continue separate as colleges for the ad-
ministration of their respective property and funds.
The parish of Old Aberdeen, or Old Machar, was
originally a deanery, called the deanery of St Machar ;
and comprehended the parishes of Old Machar, New
Machar, and Newhills. In ancient times, however,
these districts do not seem to have been so many
separate parishes, but only chapelries, in each of
which divine worship was regularly performed, as
the inhabitants of so extensive a district could not
conveniently meet in one place for public worship.
New Machar seems to have been erected into a
separate parish about the time of the Reformation ;
and Newhills about the year 1663. The parish o'
Old Machar, or Old Aberdeen, or the Old Town
parish, is in the presbytery and synod of Aberdeen.
It has been recently divided into four other quoad
sacra parishes : viz., Holburn, Gilcomston, Bon Ac-
cord, and Woodside.
1st. Old Machar. The boundaries of this
parish are somewhat uncertain. It includes an ex-
tensive landward district, besides the burgh of Old
Aberdeen, and part of New Aberdeen. The popu-
lation, in 1836-7, was estimated at 10,716, of whom
8,064 belonged to the established church, and 2,436
were dissenters. The cathedral of St Machar — as
already stated — is the parish church. It has 1,594
sittings. The charge is collegiate. Stipend of the
1st minister, £273 Is. 3d, without a rnanse or glebe ;
of the 2d minister, £282 19s. 9d, with a manse and
ABERDEEN.
a glebe of tbe yearly value of £31 10s School-
master's salary .£30, with £32 fees, and about £30
emoluments. There were 62 private schools through-
out the old parish, which were attended by 2,160
children, in 1833.
2d. Holbckn. The extent of this quoad sacra
parish is about 2a square miles. It is partly a land-
ward, partly a town-district. Population estimated,
in 1836-7, at 3,370, of whom 2,658 were churchmen.
The church was built by subscription in 1836, at a
cost of £1,858, and seats 1,332. The sum of £100
is secured by bond to the incumbent, besides what
may be derived from seat-rents after paying the in-
terest on the debt affecting the church.
3d. Gilcomston. This is a compact town-parish.
It was formerly a chapel-of-ease to Old Machar, and
was erected into a quoad sacra parish, in May, 1834.
Population, in 1836-7, 4,950, of whom about two-
thirds belonged to the establishment. The church
was erected by subscription, in 1769-71 ; and enlarged
in 1796. It has 1,522 sittings. Stipend £230, en-
tirely derived from seat-rents. There is no manse or
glebe. The dissenting congregations in this parish
are: 1st, St John's, Episcopalian. Established in 1812.
Sittings 386. Average attendance 300. Stipend from
£120"to £130. 2d, Original Seceders. Established
in 1810. Sittings 500. Average attendance 200.
The minister has a house adjoining the chapel.
Stipend £115.
4th. Bon Accord. This parish is wholly a town-
parish. It was created in 1834. Population, in
1836-7, 4,387, of whom 2,557 belonged to the
establishment, and 1,206 to other denominations.
Church built in 1823, by Scotch Baptists ; bought
for a chapel-of-ease in 1828. Sittings 840. Sti-
pend £150, wholly derived from seat-rents. There
is a Baptist congregation in this parish, renting a
hall with 180 sittings, of which about one-half are
usually occupied.
5th. Woodside. This parish was erected in 1835.
It is without the royalty, but within the parliamen-
tary boundary, and consists of four villages. Popu-
lation, in 1835, 4,238, chiefly residing in the three
contiguous villages of Cotton, Tanfield, and Wood-
side. The latter, which is the principal village, is
distant about 1^ mile from Old Aberdeen, and 2
miles from New Aberdeen. Church built in 1829-30,
at a cost of £1,890. Sittings 1,420. Stipend £150,
without manse or glebe. There are four sabbath-
schools, but no parochial school. There is an In-
dependent congregation at Cotton. Established in
1819. Stipend £50, with a house and garden. Sit-
tings 480.
The extent of the parish of Old Aberdeen is 16-6
square miles ; its form irregular. Its south-east cor-
ner forms the north and west boundaries of New
Aberdeen, or the parish of St Nicholas. It extends
about 2i miles up the Dee ; by which river it is
bounded on the south, and divided from the parish
of Nigg, in the county of Kincardine. The western
boundary stretches in a crooked line from a point 100
yards above the bridge of Dee to the Scatter burn,
and thence along its course to its junction with the
Don. By this line it is divided from the parishes
of Banchory-Davenick and Newhills. Joining the
Don, the boundary line follows the course of that
river to a point about 6 miles from its mouth. In
this quarter, the Don divides it from the parishes of
Newhills and Dyce; the northern boundary divides
it from the parishes of New Machar and Belhelvie,
and meets the sea at the Black Dog, a solitary rock
of a black colour, in the sands of Belhelvie, within
high water mark. On the east, the parish is bounded
by the sea, from the Black Dog to the mouth of the
Dee : the extent of coast being about 6 miles, and in
general flat and sandy. The greatest length of the
parish from north to south may be 7i miles, and its
greatest breadth 4. It rises in a gentle slope from the
sea, and though there is no eminence in it that de-
serves the name of a mountain, yet its surface is
beautifully diversified by rising grounds. The wind-
ings of the Dee and the Don, the number of gentle-
men's seats and villas, together with the varied pros-
pects of the sea, the rivers, the cities of Old and New
Aberdeen, and the villages of Gilcomston and Hard-
gate, give a pleasant variety to the general appear-
ance of this district. The steep and rugged banks of
the Don, from the house of Seaton to below the old
bridge, are truly romantic. On the south side of the
parish, near to Ferrybills, are many curious little
sandhills, lying in all directions, and moulded into
various forms seemingly by the retiring of some im-
mense quantity of water. The soil is in some places
naturally fertile, but many parts of it have been forced
into fertility by labour and expense. Where it has
not been meliorated by art, it is in general shallow and
sandv. The population of the entire district was, in
1821", 18,312; in 1831, 25,017. Assessed property,
in 1815, £19,125 In 1281, Henry Cheyne (nephew
of John Comyn, who was killed by Bruce at Dumfries
in 1305) succeeded to the bishopric of Aberdeen
After Comyn's death, the bishop openly espoused the
interest and party of the Comyns ; but was obliged to
fly into England, and remain there for several years,
during which time the revenues of his bishopric re-
mained unapplied. King Robert having been after-
wards reconciled to Cheyne, allowed him to return,
and possess the see of Aberdeen as formerly. Where-
upon the bishop, with the concurrence, or more pro-
bably by the command of his sovereign, applied the
accumulated rents of his bishopric towards build-
ing a bridge over the Don, about 1,200 yards from
its mouth, upon the great high road leading, north-
ward from Aberdeen. Cheyne died in 1329; the
bridge was probably erected about the year 1320.
This is the well known ' Brig o' Balgownie ;' and
consists of one large pointed Gothic arch of 72 feet
span. Sir Alexander Hay bequeathed an annual sum
of £2 5s. 8d. to the support of this bridge, which
having accumulated to upwards of £20,000, the town-
council of New Aberdeen, in 1825, obtained an act
authorizing them to apply part of the savings in build-
ing a new bridge in a more convenient situation. The
new bridge, 500 feet in length, was completed in 1830.
It is of five arches, and crosses the river at a point
450 yards lower down than the old bridge Bishop
William Elphingston left a considerable legacy to
build a bridge over the river Dee, near Aberdeen,
but died in 1514, before any thing was done towards
it. Gavin Dunbar, son of Sir James Dunbar of Cum-
nock, by Elizabeth daughter of the earl of Suther-
land, having succeeded to the bishopric of Aberdeen
in 1518, fulfilled his predecessor's intentions, and
erected the greatest part of the bridge where it now
stands, about the year 1530. This bridge having
gone into decay, was restored out of the funds be-
longing to itself, between the years 1720 and 1724.
A new suspension bridge has been thrown across the
Dee 2,600 yards lower down the river. Both tbe
bridges of Dee and Don are under the sole manage-
ment of the magistrates of New Aberdeen ; and it
appears that a large portion of their funds has been
directed to other purposes.
New Aberdeen, the capital of Aberdeenshire,
and the third Scottish town in importance, is situ-
ated on a rising ground on the northern bank of
the river Dee, near the mouth of that river, and
about li mile to the south of the river Don ; 108
miles north-north-east of Edinburgh, 115 south-east
of Inverness, and 425 north bv west of London ; in
6
ABERDEEN.
N. lat. 57° 9', and VV. long. 2° 6'. Population, in
1801,17,597; in 1821, 26,484; in 1831, 32,912. The
number of bouses, in 1831, was 2,588 ; the number
of houses of ±"10 and upwards yearly value 1,195.
exclusive of Old Aberdeen. Assessed rental £55,000,
The name has assumed various orthographies : thus
we have Aberdoen, Abyrdeyn, Aberden, and Habyr-
dine. To the Norsemen this town was known by
the name Apardion.
All historical accounts agree that Aberdeen was
erected into a royal burgh towards the end of the
9th century. But the original charter of erection,
and all the more ancient title-deeds and records of
the burgh, have perished. The oldest municipal
document extant is a charter by William the Lion
in favour of his burgesses of Aberdeen, and others,
" ex aquilonali parte de Munth mauentibus." It is
supposed this alludes to the Month, a high ridge of
hills near Fettercairn in Kincardineshire, through
which the high road, called the Cairn-of-Month road,
passes from Brechin towards the Dee. This charter
was granted at Perth, but is without date or year,
though it must have been towards the end of the
12th century. By a second charter the same mon-
arch granted to the burgesses of Aberdeen exemption
from tolls and customs for their chattels throughout
the whole kingdom. King William's successors
frequently resided here, and had a palace which
stood upon the site of the present Trinity church
and Trades hospital in the Shiprow. On the 14th
of July, 1296, Edward I. of England entered Aber-
deen, where he remained five days and received the
homage of the bishop and dean, and of the burgesses
and community. In the 14th year of his reign,
King Robert Bruce made a gift and conveyance to
the community of Aberdeen of the royal forest of
Stocket. Besides this, he granted various other
privileges and immunities to the citizens and burgh
of Aberdeen, and in particular the valuable fishings
in the Dee and Don. In 1333, Edward III. of
England having sent a fleet of ships to ravage the
east coast of Scotland, a body of English landed and
attacked by night the town of Aberdeen, which
they burnt and destroyed. In 1336, Edward III.
invaded Scotland, and led his army as far north
as Inverness, during which time the citizens of
Aberdeen attacked a party of the English forces
which had landed at Dunnottar, and killed their
general. In revenge, Edward, on his return from
Inverness, made a fierce attack upon Aberdeen,
put the greater part of the inhabitants to the
sword, and again burnt and destroyed the town.
Some years after this, the town was rebuilt, and
considerably enlarged, particularly towards the rising
grounds upon which the principal part of it now
stands, viz., the Woolman-hill, St Catharine's-hill,
the Port-hill, and the Castle-hill ; the old town hav-
ing lain more towards the east along the Green and
Shiprow. In the re-edification of their town, the citi-
zens were greatly assisted by King David Bruce, in
acknowledgment of their steady loyalty and attach-
ment both to himself and to his father. King David
II. resided for some time at Aberdeen, and erected a
mint here, as appears from some coins still extant.
It was after being rebuilt as above, that the town
was called the New Town, or New Aberdeen, in
contradistinction to the Old, which had been burnt
down. In 1411, at the battle of Harlaw, the citi-
zens of Aberdeen turned the fortunes of the day
against Donald of the Isles ; and, in 1547, they
fought with equal gallantry but less success at Pin-
ky. In the early part of the year 1560, the Refor-
mation obtained a permanent footing in Aberdeen.
Adam Heriott was the "first minister of the true
word of God in Aberdene." He died in 1574. Dur-
ing the civil wars of the 17th century, Aberdeen
suffered much between the two contending parties;
it being common for whatever party happened to be
in possession of the town to levy heavy subsidies
from the unfortunate Aberdonians. In September
1644, the Marquis of Montrose, with an army of
about 2,000 men, approached the town of Aberdeen,
and summoned it to surrender; but the magis-
trates, after advising with Lord Burley — who then
commanded in the town a force nearly equal in
number to the assailants — refused to obey the sum-
mons ; upon which a battle ensued within half-a-mile
of the town, at a place called the Crabstone, near
the Justice-mills, in wdiich Montrose prevailed, and
many of the principal inhabitants were killed.
" There was little slaughter in the fight," says Spald-
ing, " but horrible was the slaughter in the flight
fleeing back to the town." "Here it is to be re-
marked," adds the worthy Commissary-clerk, " that
the night before this field was foughten, our people
saw the moon rise red as blood, two hours before
her time !" Charles II. landed at Speymouth, July
4, 1650, and visited Aberdeen a few days after.
He revisited the city in February 1651, after the de-
feat of his hopes at Worcester and Dunbar , and in
September 1651, General Monk's army took posses-
sion of Aberdeen. On Sept. 20, 1715, the Cheva-
lier was proclaimed at the cross of Aberdeen ; and
on Sept. 27, 1745, the chamberlain of the ducal
family of Gordon proclaimed the Pretender on the
same spot. Aberdeen has been repeatedly visited
by the plague. It raged here in 1401, 1498, 1506,
1514, 1530, 1538, 1546, 1549. 1608, and last in 1647,
when it carried off 1,760 of the inhabitants out of a
population of about 9,000. The city of Aberdeen
has received various grants from different sovereigns
of Scotland, from William the Lion, downward to
James VI. inclusive ; and, in Sept. 1638, the whole
of the former charters and grants were ratified and
confirmed by charter from Charles I. From 1336,
when the town was last burnt, to 1398, it does not
appear that any public records were regularly kept
here. But from the last-mentioned period to the
present time, (except for about twelve years in the
beginning of the 15th century,) there is a regular
and uninterrupted series of records in the town's
chartulary. The county records do not reach a more
remote date than 1503.
Aberdeen is a large and handsome city, having
many spacious streets, lined on each side by elegant
houses, generally four floors in height, which are
built of a very fine granite from the neighbouring
quarries. Union street is upwards of a mile in
length, and of great beauty. It is intersected by a
ravine through which the Den burn flows, and
across which a beautiful arch is thrown, of 130
feet span, and oniy 35 feet of rise. The Market-
place, in the centre of the city, is a large oblong
square, called Castle street, or gate, from a fortress
built by Oliver Cromwell, which formerly occupied
a rising ground on its eastern side. On the north
side of it is the Town-house, and adjoining to it the
Court-houses and Prison, forming a connected range
of buildings, of two wings, with a central tower sur-
mounted by a spire 120 feet high. Opposite to the
Town-house, the Aberdeen Banking company, esta-
blished in 1766, have a handsome office. On the
west side is the Athenaeum, or News room, an ele-
gant structure, erected in 1822. Near the western
extremity of Castlegate is the Cross, the most com-
plete structure perhaps of the kind in the kingdom.
It is an hexagonal stone building, highly ornamented
with bas-relievos of the kings of Scotland, from
James I. to James VII. with a Corinthian column
in the centre, on the top of which is a unicorn bear-
ABERDEEN.
ing on its breast a scutcheon charged with the Scot-
tish lion. This building was originally erected in
1686, on the site of a more ancient cross; it was
thoroughly repaired in 1821. Leading off to the north
from Castlegate is King-street, which is little inferior
in splendour to Union-street. It was formed in 1801.
It has several handsome public buildings, among which
are the County Record-office, the Medico -chirurgical
Society's hall, St Andrew's Episcopal chapel, and
the North church. Broad-street, in which Marischal
college — to be afterwards described — is situated, is
celebrated as having been the residence of Lord
Byron while under his mother's care. The finest of
the modern public buildings is the County-rooms,
erected in 1820, at an expense of .£11,500, which
was defrayed by the counties of Aberdeen and
Banff. The Infirmary is a large plain building. It
"was established in 1742, and is supported by subscrip-
tions, collections, and donations; the number of
patients annually relieved is about 900. The Lu-
natic hospital was built by subscription in 1800. It
is about half-a-mile to the north-west of the town.
The Bridewell, a large castellated building, was
erected at an expense of £10.000. The Jail was
erected in 1828-31. It is 129 feet in length, by 98
in breadth, enclosing a court divided into six com-
partments, and having the turnkey's lodge in the
centre. — The first buildings of Aberdeen were pro-
bably a few rude huts near the spot where Trinity
church now stands. The ground next occupied was
probably in the neighbourhood of the castle and the
green; and the town gradually extended in the di-
rection of the Shiprow, the Exchequer row, and the
south side of Castlegate. In 1545 a stone edifice
was considered a mark of great opulence ; and so
late as 1741 the houses on the west side of the Broad-
gate were constructed of wood. Westwards of the
Gallowgate, there was, till the latter end of last
century, a large fenny marsh, called the Loch, which
must have occupied a large portion of the north-west
quarter of the present city. The early site of the
fishing- village of Footdeeis now covered with streets
and warehouses, extending along the Waterloo-quay.
The banks in Aberdeen are: the Aberdeen banking
company, already mentioned ; the Aberdeen Town
and County bank, established in 1825; and the
North of Scotland banking company, established in
1S36. There are also branches of the Bank of Scot-
land, the British Linen company, the Commercial
bank of Scotland, and the National bank of Scot-
land. A new post-office is about to be built, to-
wards the erection of which government has granted
£2,000.
The principal manufacture of Aberdeen, prior to
the year 1745, was knitted stockings, which were
mostly exported to Holland, and thence dispersed
through Germany. The linen manufacture was sub-
sequently introduced, and now employs about 4,000
hands. The articles chiefly manufactured are thread,
sailcloth, Osnaburgs, brown linens, and sacking. The
manufacture of sailcloth only commenced in 1795.
In the beginning of last century, the woollen manu-
factures of Aberdeenshire were chiefly coarse slight
cloths, called plaidens and fjngroms, which were sold
from 5(1. to 8d. per ell, and stockings from 8d. to 2s.
3d. per pair. These were manufactured by the
farmers and cottagers from the wool of their own
sheep, and by the citizens from wool brought to the
market from the higher parts of the country. These
goods were mostly exported to Hamburgh. Blankets,
serges, stockings, twisted yarns, and carpets, are
now manufactured. There" were, in 1838, 1,000
looms employed on linen, of which four-fifths were in
factories; 130 on cotton; and 300 on woollen car-
pets. The number of linen and cotton looms was
diminishing, the manufacturers having generallv
turned their attention to power-loom weaving and
spinning; but the woollen or carpet manufacture was
on the increase. A first class linen weaver made
about lis. per week ; one of the second class, 8s. 6d.
and an old or inferior hand, 4s. 6d. ; working on an
average about 69 hours a- week. A first class cotton
weaver made about 6s. 3d. of weekly wages. Be-
sides small cotton works, three large establishments
— in one of which the moving power is water from
the Don, and in the other steam-engines — are in con-
stant operation, and employ at least 2,000 people.
Some of these companies import their own .cotton
from America. There are several breweries; and'
porter and ales in considerable quantities are annually
exported to America and the West Indies; there are
also many distilleries, some of them on a large scale.
Of late years extensive iron- works have been estab-
lished, at which steam-engines, anchors, chains,
cables, and spinning machinery are manufactured:
and at one of them several steam-vessels of between
500 and 600 tons per register have been fitted out.
The rope manufacture and ship-building, the leather
trade, the making of paper, and manufacturing of qui lis,
soap and candles, are also carried on : and a large and
increasing trade in the exportation of corn, butter,
and eggs, to London, gives employment to a consi-
derable tonnage. Salmon-fishing is also carried on
to a great extent, and the fish are principally sent to
London packed in ice. Aberdeen salmon appear to
have been exported to England so early as 1281.
Towards the end of the 17th century Aberdeen an-
nually exported 360 barrels of 250 lbs. each to the
continent. From 1S22 to 1828, inclusive, being a
period of seven years, 42,654 boxes of salmon, chiefly
the produce of the Dee and the Don risers, but in-
cluding some Spey salmon, were shipped at Aber-
deen ; and from 1829 to 1835, inclusive, 65,260 boxes.
Whitings, or finnocks, are also taken in the Dee, and
made an article of trade to the London market. See
articles Dee and Don. In 1819 the feu-duties of
the whole fishings amounted to £27 7s. sterling, and
it was stated in the House of Commons committee
that they were then worth £10,000 per annum. The
granite quarries near Aberdeen, which have contri-
buted so much to the decoration of the town, afford
also a staple commodity for exportation. The freight
to London is about 8s. per ton ;* and the vessels in
returning generally bring coals from Sunderland. In
1656, when Tucker visited Scotland, there were 9
vessels belonging to Aberdeen, of a total burden ot
440 tons. The vessels belonging to the port of Aber-
deen, as distinct from those of Peterhead, Stone-
haven, and Newburgh, amounted, in 1839, to 254, ot
30,032 tons. The total tonnage within the limits of
the port was 43,584. The vessels are employed
principally in the East India, American, Baltic,
Mediterranean, and coasting-trades. Some years ago
14 vessels, averaging 320 tons each, and navigated
by upwards of 500 men, were employed in the
whale-fishing ; but in 1837 there were only 2 ves-
sels employed in this trade. Powerful steam ves-
sels sail regularly once a-week between Aberdeen
and London ; and steam-vessels sail every alter-
nate day to Leith during eight months of the year.
— The harbour of Aberdeen was originally no-
thing more than an expanse of water communicating
with the sea by a narrow and shallow mouth; and
the earliest artificial erection within the port was a
* The balk of a ton of granite is about 15 cubic feet. The
prices of Aberdeen granite delivered in London are as follows:
A stone of 15 tons weight, 10s. per cubic loot ; of 12 tons, 9s, ;
of 9 tons, 8s. ; of ti tons, 6s. j of 2 tons, 4s. In 1831, 3S,352
tons of granite were shipped at Aberdeen. Cubes for paving
are delivered in Loudon at about 20s. per ton, This branch vi
export trade, commenced about the year ITtiO.
8
ABERDEEN.
bulwark extending from the Shiprow southward.
In 1607 the erection of a pier on the south side of
the channel was begun ; and in 1623 the extension
of the wharf to near the present canal was com-
menced. In 1775 the New pier was begun under
the direction of the celebrated Smeaton. It cost
£18,000; and proved very useful in lowering the
bar at the mouth of the harbour, and preventing
future accumulations of sand and gravel. In 1810
an act was passed authorising the corporation to
borrow .£140,000 for the further improvement of the
harbour. At that time the greatest depth of water
was 19 feet; it is now, at average stream-tides, 21
feet; the extent of wharfage is 5,000 feet in length ;
and the harbour must be regarded as one of the most
commodious in Scotland. This advantage has, how-
ever, been attained at an expenditure of £270,000
within the last 26 years. During the year ending
June 30, 1836, shore-dues were levied on 202,043
tons of shipping. The customs levied here in 1368
amounted to £1,960 Scots'; in 1656 to £82; in 1839,
to £71,892 sterling. The harbour is under the joint
management of the magistrates and council, and six
trustees. — A canal has been made from the harbour
into the interior which joins the river Don, at In-
verury, at the distance of 18| miles north-west from
Aberdeen. It was begun in 1795, and finished in
1807, at an expense of £44.000. It has an ascent
of 168 feet, and 17 locks. — There is a regular ferry
from the harbour to the village of Torrie on the
southern shore of the estuary The Girdleness light-
house is built on a conspicuous promontory on the
larboard hand in entering the port, in N. lat. 57° 8',
and W. long. 2° 3'. It has two lights — a higher and
lower — the former visible at 19, the latter at 16 miles.
The following tables exhibit the principal imports
and exports of the city of Aberdeen, during each of
the years ending June 30, 1834, and 1836:
IMPORTS.
1834.
1836.
English coals
844,239 bolls
296,619
Scottish coals
56,337 bolls
75,295
Lime
64,433 bolls
76,412
Cotton
1,276 tons
1,223
Flax
2,679 tons
3,350
Hemp
S29 tons
536
Wool
1,154 tons
1,483
American wood
1,919 loads
3,359
East Country wo
1,500 loads
2,387
"Wheat
10,516 quarters
J5.635
Flour
6,596 sacks
8,263
Salt
62,654 bushels
70,092
Iron
2,521 tons
2,928
Whale blubber
1,125 tuns
240
Whalebone
63 tons
12
EXPORTS.
1834.
S36.
Manufactured flax
31,840 li.B.
30,482
Manufactured cotton
14,222 b n.
16,336
Manufactured wool
17.115 B u.
20,013
Oats, barley, & bear
75,512 qrs.
69,239
Meal
]J),994 bolls
13,375
Cattle
2,405 number
8,018
Horses
2y number
84
Sheep & lambs
940 number
1,407
Pigs
1,001 number
3,034
Doers
57 number
149
liutter
9,426 cwts.
9,261
EffUS
8,691 B B.
8,120
Pork
4,597 cwts.
6,006
Porter
2,924 B.B.
3,970
Granite stones
24,158 tous
17,3-18
Salmon
10,372 B b.
7,757
Three weekly newspapers are published in Aber-
deen. The Journal, which is the oldest, was estab-
lished in 1748. Aberdeen almanacks have long been
celebrated. It appears that these useful manuals
were printed here so early as 1626 — and probably
some years earlier — by Edward Raban, a printer ori-
ginally from St. Andrews. In 1617 a regular post
was established between Aberdeen and Edinburgh.
So early as 1418 a grammar-school existed here ; and
a school for teaching music, in the 15th century.
Several very ample mortifications and donations for
pious and charitable purposes have been made by
different persons belonging to Aberdeen for the wel-
fare of the community. Robert Gordon, merchant
in Aberdeen, by deed of mortification, of date 13th
December 1729, and 19th September 1730, founded
an hospital for the maintenance and education of in-
digent boys, being the sons and grandsons of bur-
gesses of guild of Aberdeen, or the sons and grand-
sons of tradesmen of the said burgh, being freemen
or burgesses thereof; and for the purposes of it he
assigned his whole estate, personal and real, to the
magistrates and the four ministers of Aberdeen,
whom he appointed perpetual patrons and governors
of the hospital. There are at present 112 boys main-
tained and educated in this hospital. The branches
of education taught, are English, grammar, writing,
arithmetic, book-keeping, the elements of geometry,
navigation, geography, French, and church-music.
Boys must not be under 9 years of age when ad-
mitted; and must leave at 16, when they are put to
proper trades, under the direction of the governors.
The funds have been enlarged by a bequest from a
Mr. Simpson, and amount to about £50,000. A club
for printing the historical and literary remains of the
North-east of Scotland, in imitation of the Bannatyne
and similar clubs, has been very recently formed in
Aberdeen under the title of ' The Spalding club.'
The Marischal college of Aberdeen was founded
by George Keith, fifth Earl-Marischal, in April 1593.
According to the deed of foundation, it u as to con-
sist of a principal, three teachers denominated re-
gents, six alumni, and two inferior persons, viz., an
economist, and a cook. The principal was required
to be well-instructed in sacred literature, and to be
skilled in Hebrew and Syriac; he was also to be
able to give anatomical and physiological prelections.
The first regent was specially to teach ethics and
mathematics; the second, logic; the third, Latin,
and Greek. The Earl reserved to himself and his
heirs the nomination to professorships ; the examina-
tion and admission of the persons so named being
vested in the chancellor, the rector, the dean of
faculty, and the principal of King's college, the min-
ister of New Aberdeen, and the ministers of Deer
and Fetteresso. The foundation was confirmed by
the General Assembly which met in the same month
in which it was framed; and a few months after, a
confirmation was given by parliament. A charter
of confirmation was granted by William, Earl-Maris-
chal, in 1623; and a new confirmation by Charles
II. in 1661. In all these charters, however, it was
specially declared that the masters, members, stu-
dents, and bursars, of the said college, should be
subject to the jurisdiction of the burgh-magistrates.
An additional regent was appointed within a few
years after the institution of the college ; a professor-
ship of divinity was founded in 1616; and a mathe-
matical professorship about three years before. In
1753, the Senatus aeademicus directed that the stu-
dents, after being instructed in classical learning,
should be made acquainted with natural and civil
history, geography, chronology, and the elements
of mathematics ; that they should then proceed to
natural philosophy, and terminate their curriculum
by studying moral philosophy. This plan of study,
with a few alterations, has since been continued.
The office-bearers in Marischal college are a chan-
cellor, rector, and dean-of-faculty. The chancellor
is chosen for life by the senate. The rector is elect-
ed annually by ali the students; as are also his as-
sessors, four in number. The dean is elected by the
senate and the senior minister of Aberdeen. The
ABERDEEN.
Senatus academicus consists of the chancellor, rector,
dean, principal, four professors termed regents, and
the professors of divinity, oriental languages, mathe-
matics, medicine, and chemistry. Besides the regu-
lar professors, there are lecturers on anatomy,
physiology, surgery, materia medica, and Scotch law
and conveyancing. These lecturers derive their ap-
pointment from both universities. The philosophy
session commences on the Wednesday immediately
following the last Monday of October, and ends on
the first Friday of April. The principal was usually,
though not of necessity, professor of divinity. His
salary is on an average £345, exclusive of the
emoluments of the divinity chair, which averages
£114. In 1833, a chair of church-history was
founded by the Crown, which is at present held by
the principal, and the average emoluments of which
are £102. He is appointed by the Crown, in con-
sequence of the forfeiture of the Marischal family.
The professor of divinity is appointed by the magis-
trates and town-council of the burgh. The average
salary of each of the four regents is about £179 ;
that of the professor of natural history, £330 ; of
natural philosophy, £331 ; of moral philosophy.
£310; of Greek, £373; of mathematics, £336; of
oriental languages, £78 ; of medicine, £100; of che-
mistry, £133. There are 40 foundations for bur- '
saries, for the benefit of 106 bursars ; 4 of these are j
of the annual value of £26; and 10 of £25 ; but
the greater part are from £10 to £5 ; 36 are in the
presentation of the council. The average number i
of students is about 250, exclusive of the divinity |
and medical students who belong to both King's
college and Marischal college. None of the students
reside in college. Honorary degrees, in all the
faculties, are occasionally conferred by the university. :
The library of Marischal college, in 1827, contained
11,000 volumes; and the principal and professors;
had a right, under a decision of the court of session
in 1738, to the use of the books transmitted from
Stationer's hall to the library of King's college. The
only building belonging to the college is the present
fabric, on the site of what was the Franciscan con-
vent. It was rebuilt between 1684-1700, and 1739-
40 ; and is again rebuilding on an extensive plan, a
royal grant of £25,000 having been made for the
purpose. The senate of Marischal college, unlike
that of King's college, are favourable to the leading
principle of the plan of union of the two universities
which has been recommended by the royal commis-
sion. Among the most eminent alumni of Marischal
college were Gilbert Burnett, afterwards bishop of
Salisbury, who took his degree of M. A. here in
1657; James Gregory, the inventor of the reflecting
telescope ; George Jamesone, the father of painting
in Scotland, and who has been called the Scottish
Vandyke; Dr Arbuthnot, the friend of Pope; Colin
Maclaurin, the mathematician; and Dr Reid, the
metaphysician.
By act of 3° and 4° William IV., the number of
the council is fixed at 19, including the dean of guild.
The chief magistrates are a provost and four bailies.
Six councillors retire from office annually, and two
are chosen by the electors of each of the three
wards to supply their places. The jurisdiction of the
magistrates extends over the whole city and freedom,
but they bold no small debt court. The magistrates
and council appoint the city-assessor, town-clerk and
depute, city-chamberlain, collector of cess, procu-
rator-fiscal, superintendent of works, quarter-master,
gaoler, town-housekeeper, and six town-serjeants.
There are two classes of old burgesses : viz., guild-
burgesses, and freemen of the seven incorporated
trades, consisting of hammermen, bakers, Wrights
and coopers, tailors, shoemakers, weavers, and flesh-
ers. All of these incorporations possess considerable
funds, but the trades are not represented in the
council. The lighting and watching of the city are
under the charge of commissioners; and the general
police is regulated by an act passed in 1829. In
1817 the corporation of Aberdeen became bank-
rupt, chiefly in consequence of the enormous expen-
diture incurred in opening two new streets or ap-
proaches to the town, under the authority of an act
of parliament dated April 5, 1800. The engineer
employed had estimated the whole expense at about
£42,000, but the total expenditure, up to Whitsun-
day 1816, amounted to £171,280. The parliamen-
tary commissioners also reported, that while the total
average annual revenue of the city for the five years
preceding Michaelmas 1832, was £15,184, the total
average annual expenditure was £17,52S; but this
excess arose upon casual expenditure, chiefly in build-
ing churches. The town's affairs are now rapidly
retrieving under the management of a popularly
elected magistracy. The total property of the city
was valued in 1832 at £223,979. The taxes levied by
the magistrates are petty customs on goods brought
into the city producing about £800 per annum ;
weighhouse dues producing £200 ; rogue-money,
officer's dues, and king's cess annuity to £256 10s.
annually. There is also a large sum of statute-labour
money levied within the town ; but there is no
assessment for the support of the poor. Aberdeen
formerly sent one member to parliament in connexion
with Montrose, Brechin, Arbroath, and Inverbervie.
It now returns one for itself and suburbs, including
Old Aberdeen. It has been represented since 1832
by Alexander Bannerman, Esq., a gentleman of
Whig principles. The number of voters, in 1835,
was 2,166. — Aberdeen gives the title of earl to a
branch of the ancient family of Gordon. Sir George
Gordon of Haddo was executed, in 1644, at Edin-
burgh, for his adherence to the cause of Charles I.
Sir John, his eldest son, who was restored to the
baronetage and estates after the Restoration, was
succeeded by bis brother George, who was created
chancellor of Scotland, and earl of Aberdeen, in 1682.
He died in 1720.
Originally, the town of New Aberdeen constituted
one parish, called the parish of St Nicholas, which, in
the time of episcopacy, was a rectory and vicarage.
It was divided, in 1828, by the authority of the court
of teinds, into six parishes, viz., East Kirk, West
Kirk, North Kirk, South Kirk, Greyfriars, and St
Clement's; all in the presbytery and synod of Aber-
deen; and under the patronage of the town-council.
In 1834, a new arrangement of the whole into nine
quoad sacra parishes was made under the authority of
the General Assembly. Another quoad sacra parish
was created in 1836.
1st, East Kirk. This parish is in the very cen-
tre of the city. Population, in 1835, 4,512, of whom
2,623 belonged to the establishment. The old
church was lately taken down, and a new one open-
ed in May 1837. Sittings 1,705. Cost £5,000.
Stipend £300, paid by the corporation The United
Secession congregation, in St Nicholas Lane, was
established in 1794. This church was built in 1801 ;
cost £850; and accommodates 624. Stipend, £150,
and a house The United Secession congregation in
George street has been established about 16 years.
Chapel built in 1821; cost £1,170; sittings 747.
Stipend £150 St Paul's Episcopal chapel was
erected in 1722, at an expense of £l,000; number
of sittings 900. Stipend £213. It is not subject to
the jurisdiction of any bishop, but is managed by
eleven managers elected for life by the congrega-
tion The Original Burgher congregation, in the
Netherkirkgate, was established in 1757. Church
10
ABERDEEN.
built in 1772, and exteriorly repaired in 1827. Sit-
tings 700. Stipend £100, and .£"20 for a house. —
A congregation calling itself the Holy Catholic Apos-
tolic congregation, established in 1836, meets in St
John street. It is ministered to by an angel or
chief-minister, and three evangelists — There is a
Unitarian congregation, which was established in
1836. — A Wesleyan Methodist congregation was
established many years ago. This chapel has 900
sittings. Stipend £115, and£15for a house. The
minister has two colleagues, with incomes of about
£50 each. — There is no parish-school ; but there are
fifteen private schools within this parish.
2d, West Kirk. This is wholly a town-parish.
The population of the quoad civilia parish, in 1831,
was 8,930 ; of the quoad sacra parish — which is ex-
clusive of the whole of Spring-Gardens, and portions
of the East and South parishes — in 1836, 2,024, of
whom 1,277 belonged to the establishment. Church
built about 1744, and enlarged in 1836. Sittings
1 ,454. Stipend £300 ; paid by the corporation
An Independent congregation was established here
in 1793. Chapel cost £1,000. Sittings 870. Sti-
pend £150. — A Relief congregation was formed in
1804. Chapel cost £1,000. Sittings 900 Here
is a parish-school. Average attendance 80. Salary
and school fees £142 ; emoluments £60. There are
eight other schools, attended by about 1,200 pupils.
3d, North Kirk. This is wholly a town-parish.
A portion of St Clement's was annexed to it, and a
portion of it given to East parish, quoad sacra, in
1834. In 1831 the population of the quoad civilia
parish was 4,616, of whom 2,864 belonged to the
establishment. The church was opened in 1831.
It is in the Grecian style, and cost £10,500. Sittings
1,486. Minister's stipend £300 ; paid by the corpo-
ration.— St Andrews Episcopal church has existed
here since 1688. The total number of communicants
is 1,200, of whom the greater part reside in Old
Machar parish. The church is a handsome Gothic
building erected in 1817 at an expense of £8,000.
It is 90 feet in length by 65 in breadth ; and contains
a fine statue of Bishop John Skinner by Flaxman.
Sittings 1,100. Stipend of senior minister, in
1836-7, £328; Stipend of junior minister £220. — .
There is an Independent congregation in Frederick
street, occupying a chapel built in 1807, at an ex-
pense of £900. Sittings 580. Stipend £110 St
Peter's Roman Catholic chapel was built in 1803-4 ;
cost £2,500. Sittings 650. Stipend about £90. A
handsome school, erected in 1832, is attached to this
chapel, and attended by about 120 children. — -The
school founded by that portion of Dr Bell of Calcutta's
bequest which was assigned to New Aberdeen, is in
this parish. It is attended by 400 boys and 200 girls,
under a male and female teacher ; the branches
taught are English, writing, arithmetic, grammar,
and geography. There is also an Infant school.
4th, South Kirk. In the quoad sacra arrangement
of 1834, the parish of Trinity was disjoined from
South parish, and part of West parish annexed to it.
The population of the parish quoad civilia, in 1831,
was 4,313, of whom 1,876 belonged to the establish-
ment. Before this parish was first erected in 1828,
the church in it was a chapel-of-ease. The heads of
families in this parish are entitled to recommend
two candidates, one of whom the council is bound
to present to the living. The old chapel was
taken down, and the present church erected in
1830-1, at an expense of £4,544. Sittings 1,562.
Stipend £300. — The United Secession church in St
Nicholas street was built in 1779-80, at a cost of
about £1,000. Sittings 800. Stipend of senior
minister £100; of junior £100. — The Independent
chapel in Blackfria'-s street was erected in 1821, at
an expense of £1,276. Sittings 950. Stipend £100.
— In 1834, there were twelve schools in this parish,
attended by about 1,100 children.
5th, Greyfriars. In the new arrangement of
1834, part of West parish was annexed to this parish,
and the whole of the parish of John Knox disjoined
from it, quoad sacra. The population of the quoad
civilia parish, in 1831, was 4,706, of whom 1,661 be-
longed to the establishment. The parish church is
what was formerly called the College church. It is
the oldest parish church now in Aberdeen. Sittings
1,042. Stipend £250 ; paid by the corporation. —
The Society of Friends have a Meeting-house in this
parish, with 350 sittings. The earliest record of
the Society in Aberdeen is dated 1762 ; it consisted
of 21 individuals in 1837. This sect was numerous
in Aberdeen between the year 1664 and 1679, when
many of them suffered imprisonment here, and
amongst others the famous Robert Barclay. The
parish minister reported that, in 1834, there were
six " adventure schools" in this parish, attended by
about 200 children ; and that he had established one
" of the nature of a parochial school" attended by
240 children.
6th, St Clement's. In the new arrangement of
1834, portions of this parish were annexed quoad
sacra to Union and North parishes. The population
of the quoad civilia parish, in 1831, was 6,501, of
whom 3,044 belonged to the establishment. The
parish church, a neat structure in the Gothic style,
was erected ic 1 828 on the site of what was once Foot-
dee church, and where a chapel had stood previous
to the Reformation. Cost £2,600; sittings 800.
Stipend, in 1835, £279 Us. 10^d, derived from the
half-barony of Torrie, the glebe of Footdee, and
seat-rents There -s no parochial school, but there
are from eight to ten schools not parochial, attended
by about 400 children. One of these is patronized
by the magistrates ; and another is an endowed free-
school.
7th, Union. This is a quoad sacra parish, disjoined
from East parish and St Clement's, in 1834. In
1835-6, the population amounted to 3,693, of whom
2,407 belonged to the establishment. The church
was built in 1822, at a cost of about £2,600. Sit-
tings 1,238. Stipend £150, paid from the seat-
rents. — A seamen's chapel was erected in this parish
in 1822, at an expense of £800. Sittings 570.
8th, Spring Gardens This parish was divided
from the West parish, and annexed as a parish quoad
sacra to the Gaelic church in 1834. Its population,
in 1835, was 1,486, chiefly labourers and operatives.
The church was built in 1795, at a cost of about
£800. Sittings 700. The service is conducted in
Gaelic in the forenoon, and in English in the after-
noon and evening. Stipend£150; paid by the con-
gregation.
9th, Trinity. This parish was divided quoad
sacra from the South parish in 1834. The popula-
tion, in 1835, was 2,252, of whom 1,425 belonged to
the establishment. The church was erected in 1794
as a chapel-of-ease, at a cost of about £1,700. Sit-
tings 1,247- Stipend £200 ; paid from seat-rents;
with a manse The United Christian congregation
was established in 1779. It assembles in a chapel
which is private property. Sittings 990. Stipend
about £115.
10th, John Knox. This parish was disjoined
quoad sacra from Greyfriars parish, in 1836. Its
population in that year was estimated at 2,7'10. The
church was erected in 1835, at a cost of about
£1,000, and seats 1,054 persons. Stipend £130,
derived from seat-rents.
Before the Reformation, there were several chapels
within the burgh and royalty annexed to and depen-
ABERDEENSHIRE.
II
de.it upon the parish-church, particularly St Mary's
chapel, under the East church ; St Catharine's chapel,
founded in 1242, which stood upon the hill of that
name ; St Ninian's chapel on the Castlehill ; and St
Clement's chapel at Footdee. There were likewise
monasteries of several different orders of friars estab-
lished in Aberdeen. The Black friars had their
establishment on the School-hill where Gordon's
hospital and the Grammar-school now stand. The
Carmelite, or White friars monastery, was on the
south-side of the Green, near Carmelite street ; and
the Grey friars in the Broadgate, where the Marischal
college and church are now situated. The Trinity
or Maturine friars also had a rich establishment in
Aberdeen.
ABERDEENSHIRE, an extensive county on
the north-east coast of Scotland; bounded on the
north and east by the German ocean ; on the south
by the counties of Kincardine, Forfar, and Perth ;
and on the west by Inverness-shire, and Banffshire.
Its outline is very irregular. It extends about 86
miles in length, from Cairneilar, or Scarscoch, the
south-west point of Braemar, where the counties of
Inverness, Perth, and Aberdeen meet; to Cairn-
bulg, a promontory forming the eastern point of
the bay of Fraserburgh on the north-east ; and about
47 miles in breadth, from the mouth of the Dee on
the east, to the head-springs of the Don, on the skirts
of Banffshire, on the west. Aberdeenshire is the
fifth Scottish county in point of area. The extent
of sea-coast is about 70 miles. Its circumference
is about 280 miles; its extent has been estimated
at 1,970 square miles, or 1,260,800 square acres. It
comprehends the districts of Aberdeen, Alford,
the greater part of Deer or Buchan, Ellon, Ga-
rioch, Kincardine O'Neil, Strathbogie, and
Turreff : which see. In ancient times its recog-
nised divisions were Buchan on the north ; Mar on
the south-west ; and Fromartin, Garioch, and Strath-
bogie in the middle. The Farquhars, Forbeses, and
Gordons, are the principal septs of this district of
country. The Taixai were the possessors of the
soil in Roman times.
The south-western parts of this county are ex-
tremely rugged and mountainous ; towards the east
and north-east the country is more level. About
two-thirds of the entire surface are covered with hills,
moors, and mosses. The principal mountains are
Ben-Macdhu, 4,390 feet; Cairntoul, 4,245; Ben-
Aven, 3.967; Loch-nagarr, 3,777 ; Ben- Uam, 3,589;
Scarscoch, 3,402. Cairngorm is not in Aberdeen-
shire, though frequently described as belonging to
this county The soil is of various qualities. In
the lower parts of the county towards the coast,
clay and sand prevail ; but, in the higher districts,
moor and till are predominant. The finest districts
lie along the courses of the Don and the Ythan.
The state of agriculture in the interior parishes is
still rude, and must long continue so from the rugged
nature of the country in these districts. The general
character of this county is bleak and uninviting, but
there are many marked exceptions from this pre-
vailing cast of scenery, especially in the neighbour-
hood of Aberdeen, and the larger towns, and along the
courses of the large rivers. The shores are generally
bold and rugged, occasionally rising into lofty pre-
cipices, and scooped out into extensive caverns ; im-
mediately to the north of Aberdeen, however, there
are extensive sand-flats. Large forests of natural
wood occur in some of the interior districts, especial-
ly in Braemar, Glentanner, and Mortlach. In these
regions, " the mountains seem to be divided by a dark
sea of firs, whose uniformity of hue and appearance
affords inexpressible solemnity to the scene, and
carries back the mind to those primeval ages when the
axe had not yet invaded the ooundless region of the
forest." The grain chiefly cultivated is oats; about
200,000 acres are annually sown with oats. There
is little wheat raised. A prodigious number of cat-
tle and sheep of different kinds are reared ; and the
annual export of butter from Aberdeen and Peter-
head exceeds in value £ 100.000. The average rent
of land, in 1810, was 3s. 8d. per acre The struc-
ture and relations of the vast groups of mountains
scattered over this county have as yet been imper-
fectly investigated. The climate is mild, considering
its northern situation ; the winters are not so cold,
nor the summers so warm or so long, as in the
southern counties With regard to mineralogy, this
county is not peculiarly rich. The granite quarries are
its most valuable mineral treasures. See preceding
article, New Aberdeen. The ordinary granite of
Aberdeenshire is a small grained stone of the common
ternary compound of quartz, felspar, and mica.
Sometimes it passes into greenstone of the trap fam-
ily ; and sometimes into basalt. It forms the great
mass of the Grampian chain. There are several quar-
ries in the parish of Aberdour which yield excellent
millstones; a quarry of blue slate is wrought in the
parish of Culsalmond ; and a vein of grey manganese
exists in the neighbourhood of Old Aberdeen. In
the parish of Huntly there are indications of metal-
lic ores ; and plumbago, or black lead, has been
discovered here. Aberdeenshire abounds with lime-
stone ; but, owing to the scarcity of coal, it cannot
be wrought to much advantage, except near a sea-
port. Some kelp is made on the coast. Small pieces,
of amber have been found on the Buchan coast ;
Camden has an apocryphal story of a piece the size
of a horse having been found on that coast ! In the
parish of Leslie, a beautiful green amianthus, with
white and grey spots, is found in considerable quan-
tities. It is easily wrought into snuff-boxes and
other ornaments. Amethysts, beryls, emeralds, and
other precious stones, particularly that species of
rock-crystal called Cairngorm stones, are found in
the Crathie mountains ; and agates of a fine polish
and beautiful variety, on the shore near Peterhead.
From Ben-y-bourd, on the estate of Invercauld,
large specimens of rock-ciystals have been obtained ;
one of these, in the possession of the proprietor of In-
vercauld, is nearly two feet in length. Besides these,
asbestos, talc, cyanite, mica, and schistus, occur.
Several of the mountains in the district of Marr show
signs of volcanic origin. The mineral waters of
Peterhead in the north, and Pannanich in the south,
are celebrated. — About 6,400 acres of the superficial
extent of this county are occupied with lakes. The
rivers of Aberdeenshire are : the Dee, the Don, the
Ythan, the Bogie, the Urie, the TJgie, and the
Cruden : the Deveron also rises in Aberdeen-
shire, though it has its embochure in the county of
Banff: See separate articles under these heads.
All these rivers flow into the German ocean ; and
have long been celebrated — especially the first two
— for the excellence of the salmon with which they
abound. Besides the fishings in the rivers, the sea-
coast of Aberdeenshire abounds with excellent fish,
and a number of fishing-vessels are fitted out from
the sea-ports of this county, particularly from Peter-
head and Fraserburgh There is one canal, extend-
ing up the valley of the Don from New Aberdeen
harbour to Inverury. It has been described in the
preceding article.
Aberdeenshire has been long noted for its woollen
manufactures, particularly the knitting of stockings
and hose, in which numbers of the common people
are constantly employed. The cotton, linen, and
sail-cloth manufactures have been successfully intro-
duced, particularly in Aberdeen, Peterhead, and
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Iluntiy. In 1831, there were about 1,600 hands
employed in the linen, woollen, and cloth manufac-
tures, in Old and New Aberdeen, and about 700 in
other districts of the county.
Aberdeenshire contains three royal boroughs, viz.
Aberdeen, Kintore, and Inverury ; and several
handsome towns, as Peterhead, Fraserburgh,
Huntly, Turriff, and Old Meldrum : See these
articles. The chief seats are, Huntly-lodge, the
seat of the Marquis of Huntly ; Slain's castle, Earl
of Errol ; Keithhall, Earl of Kintore ; Aboyne cas-
tle, Earl of Aboyne ; Marr lodge, Earl of Fife ;
Philorth house, Lord Saltoun ; Putachie, Lord For-
bes ; Fyvie castle, General Gordon ; and Ellon cas-
tle, Earl of Aberdeen. Besides these, Monymusk,
Fintry house, Invercauld, Pitfour, Logie-Elphin-
stone, Leith-hall, Freefield, Abergeldie, Skene house,
and Cluny, are elegant residences. — Aberdeenshire
is divided into 85 quoad civilia parishes, and one
chapelry. It sends one member to parliament. The
Hon. William Gordon, a brother of the Earl of Aber-
deen, and a Conservative, has represented this county
since 1820. In the last contested election, he polled
l,175votes; and Sir Thomas Burnett 707 votes. The
total number of electors, in 1838, was 3,142. The
valued rent of the whole county in Scottish money,
is .£241,931 8s. lid. ; the annual value of the real
property as assessed in 1815, £325,218. In 1811
there were three estates in this county valued at
above £10,000 Scotch; six above £4,000; and
fifty-one from £400 to 800. The population, in
1800, was 123,082; in 1811, 135,075; in 1821,
155,387 ; in 1831, 177,657. The population in 1831
was employed as follows : — Occupiers of land em-
ploying labourers 3,591 ; occupiers not employing
labourers 6,012; agricultural labourers 9,018; la-
bourers not agricultural 5,107 ; manufacturing oper-
atives 2,294; employed in retail trades and handi-
crafts 11,642; capitalists, 1,750; male servants 450 ;
female servants 10,759. The total number of
families, in 1831, was 39,930; of inhabited houses,
29,502.
The three principal lines of road in this county
are : 1st, from Aberdeen, running west and south-
west by Midmar, Tarland, and Crathie, to Castleton
of Braemar, and then turning south and entering
Perthshire by the Spital. 2d, From Aberdeen
north- west by Old Meldrum, to Banff. 3d, From
Aberdeen north-westwards to Alford, and thence
south, through Strathbogie, to Portsoy.
Previous to the late act for the equalization of
weights and measures, the Aberdeenshire boll was
equal to lij boll of the Linlithgow standard. The
boll of barley, bear, or oats, was 4 Aberdeen firlots
of 136 pints of 60J oz. each. The brass standard
bushel of Queen Anne, 1707, used in Aberdeen,
contained 13 cubic inches less than the Winchester
standard ; and a bushel used in the county contained
40 cubic inches less. The peck of potatoes was
32 lb. Dutch ; the pound of bvitter or cheese, from
20 to 26 oz. Dutch ; of malt, meal, or corn, 24 oz.
Dutch.
ABERDOUR, a parish in the north of Aberdeen-
shire ; bounded on the north by the German ocean,
or Moray frith, along which it extends about 6|
miles ; on the east by the parishes of Pitsligo and
Tyrie ; on the south by Tyrie, New-Deer, and King-
Edward parishes ; and on the west by the latter
parish, and that of Gamrie. This parish takes its
name from a rivulet, about 3 miles in length, which
rises in the high grounds near Glenhouse, and dis-
charges itself into the sea about 200 paces below the
church. The form of the parish is irregular. Its
extent from north-east to south-west is about 11
miles. Its breadth, measuring from the church on
the north coast southward, is 6i miles ; but, on the
south-east, a portion of the parish is detached from
the rest by the parish of Tyrie, which, for about a
mile of breadth, intervenes, and cuts off three farm
towns, extending to about 800 acres. This detach-
ed part of the parish is believed to have been former-
ly grazing-places attached to the barony of Aberdour.
The face of the country is rugged, and the soil of
very different qualities : on the sea-coast it is partlv
clay, or red loam ; in the moors it is black, cold, anil
watery. On the west side of the parish are three
deep hollows, or glens, with a rivulet in each, called
the den of Aberdour, the den of Auchmedden, and
the den of Troup. Each of these dens, as they ad-
vance from the sea-coast, branch out on either side
into lesser ones, which lose themselves in mosses
and moors, at a distance of about 3 miles from the
sea. The eastern side of the parish is more level,
and presents corn-fields, interspersed with heaths,
and, near the sea, with large tracts of ground pro-
ducing a coarse kind of grass called reesk. In the
southern part of the parish is the den of Glasby, in
which the northern branch of the Ugie flowing to the
south-east rises. The greater part of this side of
the parish consists of mosses and moors, sprinkled
here and there with corn-fields ; the western border
of the parish, along its whole breadth, presents con-
tinued mosses and moors. — The sea-coast, especiallv
to the west of the church, is bold and precipitous : so
much so that in the whole length of the parish there
are only three openings where boats can land, — one in
the north-east corner ; one immediately below the
church ; and a third where the burns of Troup and
Auchmedden discharge themselves into the sea, near
the small fishing- village of Pennan, and where, about ■
a century ago, a small harbour existed, now totally
destroyed. Along the coast are numerous caves, en-
tering from the sea. The most remarkable of these,
near the borders of Pitsligo parish, called Cows-haven,
runs up into the country, " nobody knows how far."
About half-a-nule east of the church, are the remains
of the ancient castle of Dundargue, upon a rock of
red free-stone which rises to the height of 64 feet from
the beach immediately below. It is surrounded by the
sea when the tide flows, save where a narrow neck of
rock and earth joins the castle to the main-land.
When Mr Youngson wrote his account of this parish
for the first Statistical survey of Scotland, the only-
part ef the castle standing was the entry. The whole
breadth of the front was only 12 feet, and the height
of the walls 12 feet 7 inches; there were no other
remains of the castle-walls, except the inside of the
foundation, the outside having fallen down owing to
the mouldering away of the rock on which it was
built. Henry de Beaumont, the English earl of
Buchan, was besieged in this castle by Andrew
Murray, regent of Scotland, during the captivity of
King David Bruce, in 1336. Mill-stones are quarried
on the coast. Population, in 1801, 1,304; in 1831,
1,548. Assessed property, in 1815, £2,839. Houses
325. In 1831, 28 hands were employed in fishing,
and 151 as agricultural labourers This parish is in
the presbytery of Deer, and svnod of Aberdeen.
Stipend £204 7s. lOd. Glebe £12. Patron, Gor-
don of Aberdour. Schoolmaster's salary £32 ;
school-fees £8 5s. 6d. Scholars average 40; about
an equal number are taught at two private schools.
ABERDOUR, a parish on the south-coast of
Fife. The name — signifying ' the mouth of the
Dour' — is taken from a rivulet which empties itself
into the Forth, a little below the village of Aberdour.
It is bounded by Dalgety on the west ; by Auchter-
toul on the north; by Kinghorn and Burntisland on
the east ; and by the frith of Forth on the south. It
is about 3 miles in length from east to west ; and as
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much from north to south. A small part of the parish,
called Kiirie-Yetts, is detached from the rest, by the
intervening parish of Burntisland. The number of
acres is about 5,000. The northern part is cold, being
considerably above the level of the sea. On the
south of a ridge, which runs across the parish from
east to west, the soil and climate are much more
kindly. The south part is well-cultivated, and in-
closed. The valued rent is £7,015 10s. Scots.
The parish abounds with coal, lime, and free stone.
The limestone on the coast is shipped at a commo-
dious harbour which the Earl of Morton built for
the purpose. The parish stretches along the shore
above two miles. From the eastern boundary at Star-
lyburn, the coast is rugged and steep. On the west
of the town of Aberdour, there is a beautiful white
sandy bay, surrounded with trees. The small harbour
of Aberdour is well-sheltered from all winds. The
shipping at present consists of a few small vessels.
There is a steam-boat to Newhaven. The village
is a favourite bathing-resort from Edinburgh during
the summer. It is 2^ miles west of Burntisland ;
and 8 north by west of Edinburgh. The prospect
across the frith is very beautiful. On the right lies
the island of Inchcolm, with the ruins of its monas-
tery ; on the left appears the town of Burntisland,
which here seems to be seated on the sea. The
islands of Inchkeith, Cramond, Mickry, and Carcary,
are also seen, and the coast of Lothian is just dis-
tant enough to be seen with advantage. The city
of Edinburgh rises in view, and the Pentland hills
terminate the prospect. The village of Aberdour is
about a quarter of a mile from the sea. It is sur-
rounded by rising grounds, except towards the south.
Between the village and the sea are a number of
tine old spreading trees. The venerable old castle
of Aberdour stands on the eastern bank of the rivulet,
which, taking a winding course below it, falls into
the frith in front. To the north of this ruin stands
the house of Hillside, surrounded with fine shrub-
beries. Between this and the village, the rivulet
runs in the bottom of a little rich strath. Popula-
tion, in 1801, 1,260; in 1831, 1,751, of whom about
70 were employed in the freestone quarries and
coal pits recently opened, and 63 families in
agriculture. Houses 262. A. P. £3,964. The
parish of Aberdour belonged to the monastery of
Inchcolm, founded, about the beginning of the 12th
century, by Alexander I. Sibbald says, that the
western part of Aberdour was given by one of the
Mortimers to this monastery, for the privilege of
burying in the church. It had come by marriage to
the Mortimers from the Viponts, who held it in the
12th century. This western part of Aberdour, to-
gether with the lands and barony of Beath, is said to
have been acquired from an abbot of Inchcolm, by
James, afterwards Sir James Stuart. See Inch-
colm The parish itself was formed by disjunction
from the parishes of Beath and Dalgety about the
year 1640. Itisin the presbytery of Dunfermline, and
synod of Fife. Church built in 1790; repaired in
1826 ; sittings 579. The Earl of Morton is patron.
Stipend £207 14s. 6d. ; with glebe of 4?V acres, valued
at £13. The schoolmaster's salary is £100 Scots,
or £34 4s. 4^d ; his other fees amount to above £50.
The ordinary number of scholars is about 120. There
is a day-school at the collieries in the northern part
of the parish, and a female-school in the village of
Aberdour. There is an hospital in the village for
four widows, founded by Anne, countess of Moray.
The earl of Moray presents three of the inmates, and
the Writers to the signet the fourth. The sisterhood
of the Poor Clares had a nunnery here. — Not far from
the village of Aberdour, on the top of a hill, there
is one of those cairns or tumuli so frequently met
with in Scotland The old ballad of Sir Patrick
Spens represents that gallant seaman as having
perished with his fair charge, Margaret of Norway, —
" Half ower, half ower, to Aberdour;1'
that is, we conceive, midway between Norway and
this little port. Sir Walter Scott, however, prefers
the reading of some copies, —
" O forty miles off Aberdeen ;"
remarking that in a voyage from Norway, a shipwreck
on the north coast seems as probable as either in the
frith of Forth or Tay. But as Aberdour was the
nearest port to Dunfermline, where the royal court
held seat, and as the commissioners, whom graver
though by no means well-accredited history relates
were sent to escort the queen, namely, Wemyss of
Wemyss, and Scott of Balwearie, belonged to this
neighbourhood, we think there is a greater weight of
probability for the common reading :
" Half ower, half ower, to Aberdour,
'Tis fifty fathoms deep,
And there lies gude Sir Patrick Spens
VVi' the Scotch lords at his feet."
ABERFELDIE, a considerable village in the
parish of Dull, Perthshire, on the southern banks of
the Tay, at the junction of the Glencofield road
from the south, with the great road up the Tay from
Taymouth, from which latter place it is distant about
5 miles. The Tay is crossed by a bridge opposite
Aberfeldie built by General Wade. The Central
bank of Scotland has a branch in this village. The
scenery of this district is among the most interesting
on the whole course of the Tay. — The lowest and
finest fall on the burn of Moness is about 1 mile, and
the upper fall 1A mile to the south of this village.
The burn of Moness, a little above the village of
Aberfeldie, is " bounded by high impending rocks,
from whose chasms and crevices," says a tasteful ob-
server, " fine trees and matted underwood seem to
start, deepening the gloom below; while a narrow
and dangerous path at their base leads you, with the
effect of gradual initiatory preparation, to the cas-
cades themselves. These form a retiring succes-
sion (they are three in number) of brilliant gushing
torrents, gradually veiled, as they recede from the eye,
by the thin leafy screen of the over-arching woods,
which render it one of the completest specimens of
the secluded waterfall that I have ever seen."
ABERFOYLE,* a parish in the south-west corner
of Perthshire ; bounded on the north by Loch
Katrine and Loch Achray, which separate it from
Callander parish ; on the east by the parish of Port-
of-Menteith ; on the south and west by Stirlingshire.
Its greatest admeasurement is from the east end of
Loch Arclet, on the north-west, to the bridge across
the Forth, on the road from Gartmore, in the south
eastern extremity, a distance of about 1 1 miles ; its
greatest breadth from north to south is towards the
centre of the parish, and about 6 miles. The general
aspect of this district is extremely picturesque.
It is *a narrow tract of country, bounded on every
side by lofty hills and mountains. The bottom of the
valley is occupied by a series of beautiful lakes, skirted
with woods of oak, ash, and birch ; and their banks
are occasionally diversified with scanty portions of cul-
tivated ground, the soil of which has, in the course
of ages, been washed down from the mountains,
and deposited by the streams. The mountains
are in some instances clothed with oak-woods more
than half-way up ; the lower eminences are, for the
most part, covered to their summits ; the higher re-
* This parish derives its name from the term aber, and l\
small river, vailed, in Gaelic, the Poll, or * the stagnating
water,' which falls into the Forth near the kirk-town. " In
that language," says Mr Graham, "polt is in the genitive case,
and pronounced foil or foyle; whence Aberfoyle."
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gions are overgrown with heath, and sometimes pre-
sent only the bare rugged rock. None of the moun-
tains are of the first class in height. ' Huge Ben-
venue' and Benchochan are tar-overtopped by Ben-
lomond, in the parish of Buchanan, which, with its
pyramidal mass, terminates the prospect to the west.
The rocks are chiefly micaceous granite. Many of
the rarer Alpine plants are to be found upon the
mountains. The black eagle builds in some of the
more inaccessible rocks; but it is now very rare.
The falcon is also found here. The most considerable
lakes are Loch Katrine, Loch Achray, Loch
Chon, and Loch Ard : which see. One head-
branch of the river Foith has its rise in the western
extremity of the parish, at the eastern foot of Ben-
Awe. After flowing through Loch Chon, and the
upper and lower Loch Ard, it bursts forth, at the
eastern extremity of the latter; and, a few hundred
yards to the east of it, flings itself over a rock nearly
30 feet high, alter having formed a junction with
the other head-branch of the Forth, called the
Duchray, coming from the south-west. The united
stream receives the name of the Forth, and enters by
a narrow opening — the famous pass of Aberfoyle —
into Strathmore. In winter, the lakes are covered
with water-foul; among which swans, and some of
the rarer species of divers, are occasionally met with.
The soil is light. It is generally remarked, that
the harvest is earlier in Aberfoyle than any where
in the vicinity towards the south, where the flat
country begins. The air is healthy. When Mr
Graham wrote his excellent account of this parish
tor the first edition of the Statistical account of
Scotland, (1796) there were seven or eight persons
above eighty years of age, alive in the district ; one
man had recently died at the age of 97; and the
acting grave-digger was 101 The property of this
parish was anciently vested in the Grahams, Earls of
Menteith ; but, on the failure ot heirs-male of that
family, in 1694, their estate came to the family of Mon-
trose ; and the Duke of Montrose is now sole heritor
in this parish, being at the same time patron, pro-
prietor, and superior of the whole, excepting a single
farm (Drumlane) which holds blench of the Duke of
Argyle. Population, in 1801, 711; in 1821, 730;
in 1831, 660, in 132 families, of whom only 15 were
employed in agriculture. The decrease in the popu-
lation is attributed to the enlargement of farms, and
the consequent demolition of cottages, in this parish
of late years. — This parish is in the presbytery of
Dunblane, and synod of Perth and Stirling. Stipend
£158 6s. 8d., and a glebe and manse. There is a
parochial school, w hich is well-attended. The church-
yard of Aberfoyle is the usual burying-place for the
inhabitants of Port-of- Menteith, Drymen, and Bu-
chanan. " In ancient times," says Mr Graham, "the
Gaelic language alone was spoken in this parish ; and,
even in the memory of man, it extended many miles
farther down the country than it now does. The limits
of this ancient tongue, however, are daily narrowed
here as everywhere else, by the increasing inter-
course with the low country. At present, every
body understands English, though the Gaelic is chief-
1) in use. The service in church is performed in
English in the forenoon, and in Gaelic in the after-
noon."— The village of Aberfoyle is 22 miles distant
from Dumbarton, by Gartmore and Drymen. The
road is wild but interesting. The principal line of
road through the parish follows the vale of the Forth,
or of its fountain-lochs rather, and enters the parish
of Buchanan, between Lochs Arcletand Katrine, from
which point it passes through a wild moor to Inver-
snaid on the eastern side of Loch Lomond. This is
a road of great beauty and variety of scenery On a
rising ground, in the neighbourhood of the manse,
and facing the south, there is a circle of stones,
which, there is room to believe, may be a relic of
Druidism. It consists of ten large stones placed cir-
cularly, with a larger one in the middle The scenery
of this parish has been immortalized by Sir Walter
Scott in his poem of The Lady of the Lake, and
his novel of Rob Roy. Perhaps it owes its chief
power and beauty to the mighty minstrel's inspiration.
Nature herself is indeed a poet here, — yet a "some-
thing more exquisite still," — a nameless charm, flung
around us by the hand of one whose genius glorifies
every thing it touches, is everywhere resting on this
elf and fairy realm. See articles Achray (Loch),
Benvenue, and Forth.
ABERLADY, a small parish on the north-west
coast of the county of Haddington ; bounded on the
north by the frith of Forth, which here forms Aber-
lady bay, and by the parish of Dirleton ; on the east
by Dirleton and Haddington parishes ; and on the
south by Gladsmuir parish. Its greatest dimension
is about 4 miles, in a line running north-east and
south-west from the PefTerburn, near Saltcoats, to
Coteburn in Gladsmuir; and its greatest extent from
east to west is nearly the same. The PefTerburn —
supposed to have been once called the Leddie,
whence the name of the parish — rises in the parish of
Athelstaneford, and after a winding course of 5 miles,
falls into Aberiady bay, at Luffness point. From this
point the whole bay between the Aberiady and the
Goolan or Dirleton shore is left dry at low water,
so that it may be crossed by foot-passengers at a
point where the sands are above a mile in breadth.
At spring-tides, vessels of 60 or 70 tons may come
up the channel of the PefFer to within a few hundred
yards of the village of Aberiady. This anchorage-
ground belongs to the town of Haddington, and
forms its port. The sands covered by the tide
abound in cockles, and some other kinds of shell-
fish. Along the shore, from near Gosford house to
the eastern point of the parish, runs a tract of
sandy links, of considerable breadth, abounding with
rabbits, and which is continued and spreads out into
greater breadth along the Goolan shore. From this
flat tract, the ground rises gradually as we proceed
inland, but in no part attains any considerable eleva-
tion. The village of Gosford no longer exists ; but
the Earl of Wemyss has built a splendid mansion
here, close on the links, and commanding a fine view
of the frith towards Edinburgh. His lordship has
here a splendid collection of paintings. The village
of Aberiady, 5 miles north-west of Haddington, con-
sists of one long street of a mean appearance. It is
occasionally resorted to by the inhabitants of Had-
dington as a bathing-place, but the surrounding
country presents little that is attractive to the
stranger. Population, in 1801, 875; in 1831,973.
Houses 200. Assessed property, in 1815, £8,569.—
This parish is in the presbytery of Haddington, and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, the Earl
of Wemyss. Stipend ±'280 lis. lid. ; with a manse
and glebe of the value of £27 10s. Gross amount
of teinds £876 9s. 8d. There is a good parochial
school, and a private school, with two sewing-
schools. Salary of parish-schoolmaster £34 4s. 4^-d :
fees £34 ; scholars about 60. The church was built
in 1773. Adjoining to it are two aisles, in one of
which is a monument to the memory of Lady North
and Grey, wife of Patrick, Lord Elibank, with an
inscription composed by his lordship A little to
the west of Luffness-house are the remains of a con-
ventual building, once belonging to the Carmelites.
An hospital is said to have been founded at Ballen-
crief in the 12th century. This parish formerly be-
longed, in virtue of a grant from David 1., to the
bishop of Dunkeld, and was a vicarage in that diocese.
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It has been conjectured that the Culdees had a seat
at or near Aberlady, called Kilspindie.
ABERLEMNO, an inland parish in Forfarshire ;
hounded on the north by the parishes of Tannadiee
and Caraldston ; on the east by Brechin and Guthrie
parishes ; on the south by Rescobie ; and on the
west by Oathlaw parish. Its extreme length from
south-west to north-east, in the line of the road
from Forfar to Brechin, is 6i miles; its average
breadth 3±. The surface is gently undulating, with
a general declination towards the South Esk river,
which runs along the northern boundary of the
parish, and along the course of which the land is so
level as to be occasionally extensively inundated by
that river. The principal stream is the Lemno, which
rises on the south-east side of the Finhaven ridge
of hills in this parish ; passes the kirk-town ; sweeps
in a circuitous direction around the base of the ridge ;
and, entering Oathlaw parish, turns north-eastwards,
and flows into the Esk, in the latter parish, at a
point within one mile of its original source.* There
are two curious stone pillars or obelisks in this parish,
supposed to have been erected in commemoration of a
victory obtained over the Danes. They are covered
with unintelligible hieroglyphics. About a mile to
the north-east of the kirk town are the ruins of
Melgund castle, which was built by Cardinal Beaton
for a natural son, who married a lady of the Panmure
family. Population of the parish in 1801, 945 ; in
1831, 1,079, of whom 100 were labourers employed
in agriculture, and 70 employed as quarriers. Houses
197. Assessed property, £8,407 This parish is in
the presbytery of Forfar, and synod of Angus and
Mearns. Stipend £228 6s. 6d. ; with a glebe valued
at £15, a manse, and fuel and foggage. Unappro-
priated teinds £469 14s. lid. Salary of school-
master £34 4s. 4id. ; school-lees and other emolu-
ments about £20; average number of scholars, 70.
There is also a private school. This parish was
formerly a vicarage, with the parish of Auld Barr
united ; and the patrons are, Smyth of Methven in
right of Auld Barr, and the Crown, alternately.
ABERLOUR, a parish on the south-west of
Banffshire; bounded on the north-west and north
by the river Spey, by which it is separated from the
parishes of Knockando and Rothes in Morayshire ;
on the north-east by the Fiddich, which separates it
from Boharm parish ; on the east and south-east by
Mortlach parish, from which it is separated by the
Conval hills, and the Dullan burn ; and on the south
and west by Inveraven parish. It extends along the
southern bank of the Spey, 5 miles in direct distance,
or about 8 miles including the windings. Its great-
est admeasurement is from the point of confluence of
the Fiddich and the Spey, on the north, to the head
of the Dullan on the south, a distance of 9 miles.
The general outline of this parish is triangular ;
about one-half of the surface is under cultivation,
but the whole is hilly, and towards the south and
east completely wild and mountainous. The loftiest
mountain is Benrinnes on the south-west, whose
enormous base lies partly and chiefly in this parish,
but extends also into Inveraven parish. It rises to
the height of 2,747 feet above the sea-level, and
1,876 feet above the adjoining country. From its
summit, the mountains of Caithness on the north are
visible in a clear day ; and the Grampians in the op-
posite direction. The deep pass of Glackkarnis
separates this mountain, on the east, from the Con-
• Dr Jamiesnn instances the name nf this parish as a ease in
which the word auer cannot signify a continence of waters — as
Chalmers contends it always does ; but must be regarded as
equivalent to the German oher, or uber, signifying upper, or a
higher relative situation : for the name of the parish is un-
doubtedly derived from the Lemno.
vals, which are of much less elevation. Three small
streams intersect this parish in a north-west i'rec-
tion, and discharge themselves into the Spey. The
latter river is here deep and rapid, and, in the great
floods of 1829, rose 19 feet 6 inches above its ordi-
nary level. The main line of road follows its course,
and is carried across the Fiddich by a bridge at a
point near its junction with the Spey. A little
above this confluence, and 12 miles above Fochabers,
there is a fine iron bridge, of 160 feet span, thrown
across the Spey, at a point where, rushing obliquely
against the lofty rock of Craigellachie, it has cut for
itself a deep channel of about 50 yards in breadth.
The scattered birches and firs on the side of the im-
pending mountain, the meadows stretching along the
valley of the Spey, and the western road of access
to the bridge cut deeply into the face of the rock,
combine with the slender appearance of the arch to
render this spot highly interesting. The course of
the river for 4 miles below this bridge is very beau-
tiful. This bridge, known as that of Craigellachie,
was erected in 1815, at an expense of £8,200, and
greatly facilitates communication with Elgin and
Garmouth. There is good salmon and trout fishing
in the Spey and the Fiddich ; and the streamlets
also of this parish afford good sport to the angler.
The new village of Aberlour was founded in 1812,
by Grant of Wester Elchies. It now contains 250
inhabitants. It is about li mile above Craigellachie
bridge, and 5 miles west-north-west of Mortlach.
Population of the parish, in 1801, 815; in 1831,
1,276, of whom 56 were agriculturists employing la-
bourers. Houses 255. Assessed property, £2,210.
— This parish is in the presbytery of Aberlour, and
synod of Moray. Patron, the Earl of Fife, who is
also the principal land-owner. It was formerly a
prebend, with the ancient parish of Skirdustan
united. Stipend £287 8s. 2d., arising from parson-
age teinds ; with a glebe valued at £5, and a manse
and peat-cutting. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s.
4rd., with a house and garden, and £10 12s. of fees.
Scholars average 30. Church erected in 1812;
sittings 700. There is a Missionary station and
chapel in Glenrinnes.
ABERLUTHNET. See Marykirk.
ABERNETHY, a parish partly and chiefly in
Perthshire, and partly in Fifeshire ; bounded on the
north by the Earn river, which separates it from the
parishes of Dunbarn and Rhynd, and by the estuary
of the Tay ; on the east and south by Fifeshire ; and
on the west by the parishes of Dron and Dunbarn.
This parish is of an irregular figure. It extends
from east to west about 4 miles ; and from north to
south, in some places, nearly 5. The surface is un-
even ; a considerable part is hilly, and belongs to
that ridge of hills called the Ochills. The low-
ground, betwixt the rivers Tay and Earn on the
north, and the hills on the south, forms nearly an
oblong square of about 4 miles in length by H in
breadth. About 25 feet below the surface of this
flat, and 4 feet below the highest spring-tide mark
in the Tay and Earn, there is uniformly found a
stratum of moss from 1 to 3 feet thick. This moss
is composed of remains of oak, aller, hazle, birch, &c.
The soil above this bed is composed of strata of
clay and sand. The Earn, by breaking down the
opposing banks in its serpentine turning, has formed
beautiful links or haughs on each side of its stream,
which are secured from being overflowed, by embank-
ments. The Tay, which washes the eastern part of
the northern boundary, is here navigable, and affords
salmon and sea-trout. The proprietor of Carpow has
valuable fishings upon it. In the middle of this ri ver,
opposite to Mugdrum, in the parish of Newburgh,
is an island called Mugdrum island, belonging to this
1G
ABERNETHY.
pavish. It is nearly 1 mile in length ; its greatest
breadth is 198 yards ; area 31 acres. The Earn,
which bounds the northern part of the parish till it
falls into the Tay, a little below the mansion-house
of Carpow, is navigable for several miles. It also
produces salmon and trout, which are chiefly sent to
Perth, and thence to the English market. There
are two passage-boats on the Earn : one at Cary,
which is seldom employed; another at Ferryfield,
upon the estate of Carpow, near the junction of the
Earn and the Tay. The Farg, a rivulet rising on
the borders of Kinross-shire and flowing into the Earn
about H mile west from Abernethy, also abounds
with small trout. There is another small rivulet,
the Ballo burn, anciently called the Trent, which
flows through what is called the glen of Abernethy.
Population of the entire parish, in 1801, 1,488; in
1831, 1,776. Houses 324. Assessed property,
£7,976. — The population of that portion of the
parish which is in Fifeshire was, in 1801, 133 ;
and in 1831, 164. Number of houses 28. Assessed
property £1,496. The valued rent is £884 15s.
Id. Scots. The real rent about £8,000 sterling.
The town of Abernethy is nearly in the centre of
the parish, 3 miles west by south from Newburgh.
It is a burgh of barony under Lord Douglas, coming
in place of the eails of Angus. It has a charter
from Archibald, Earl of Angus, Lord of Abernethy,
dated August 23, 1476 ; which was confirmed by
charter of William, Earl of Angus, dated November
29, 1628. There is a cattle fair here on the 12th of
February ; also on the fourth Wednesday in May, and
second Thursday in November. Population, 800
This place, though "now a mean village," says Dr
Tamieson, "once boasted high honours, and had very
considerable extent. It would appear that it was a
royal residence in the reign of one of the Pictish princes
who bore the name of Nethan or Nectan. The Pic-
tish chronicle has ascribed the foundation of Aber-
nethy to Nethan I., in the third year of his reign,
corresponding with A.D. 458. The Register of St
Andrews, with greater probability, gives it to Nethan
II., about the year 600. Fordun and Wyntoun agree
in assigning it to Garnat, or Garnard, the predecessor
of the second Nethan. Abernethy had existed as a
royal seat perhaps before the building of any con-
spicuous place of worship. For we learn, that the
Nethan referred to ' sacrificed to God and St Bridget
at Aburnethige ;' and that the same Nethan, 'king
of all the provinces of the Picts, gave as an offering
to St Bridget, Apurnethige, till the day of judgment.'
Fordun expressly asserts, that, when this donation
was made, Abernethy was ' the chief seat, both re-
gal and pontifical, of the whole kingdom of the
Picts.' He afterwards relates, that, in the year
1072, Malcolm Canmore did homage, in the place
called Abernethy, to William the Bastard, for the
lands which he held in England. I have elsewhere
thrown out a conjecture that this place may have
been denominated from the name of Nethan the
founder. It has been said, indeed, that ' the name
which Highlanders give to Abernethy, is Obair or
Abair Neachtain, that is, the work of Nechtan.
But it seems preferable to derive it from Nethy, the
name of the brook on which it stands."
This parish is in the presbytery of Perth, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Stipend £256 5s. 7d. ;
with a glebe of the value of £l2, and a manse.
Patron, the Earl of Mansfield. There are about
£270 unappropriated teinds. The schoolmaster has
the maximum salary, with the interest of a mortifi-
cation of £190, and some other small fees. There
are two private schools. The church is remarkable
for nothing but its antiquity ; there are no records,
nor so much as a tradition when it was built. The
Secession have a church here. Abernethy was in
ancient times the seat of an episcopal see. When
Kenneth III. had subdued the Picts, he translated
the see to St Andrews ; but long before this Aber-
nethy was known as a principal seat of the Culdees.
While they held it, there was an university here for
the education of youth, as appears from the Priory
book of St Andrews. In the year 1273 — by which
time the Culdees were much discouraged — it was
turned into a priory of canons-regular of St Augus-
tine, who were brought, it is said, from the abbey of
Inchaffray.
In the church-yard stands a tower of an extraor-
dinary construction. South-west from the kirk-
town there is a hill, called Castle-law. Dr Jamie-
son says : " Although the round tower of Abernethy
has attracted the attention of many travellers and
writers, and been the subject of various hypotheses,
no one has ever thought of viewing it as connected
with the royal residence ; as it was undoubtedly
used for some ecclesiastical purpose. That good-
humoured old writer, Adamson, assigns a singular
reason for the erection of this building; while he
seems not to have known that there was another
of the same description at Brechin, considerably
higher than this. He pretends that this was built
by the Picts to prevent the Scots from trampling on
the body of their king after his death : —
Passing the river Earne, on th' other side, —
Thence to the Pights great Metropolitan,
Where stands a steeple, the like in all Britaine
Not to be found againe, a work of wonder,
.So tall and round in frame, a just cylinder,
Built by the Pights in honour of their king,
That of the Scots none should attempt such thing,
As over his bellie big to walk or ride,
But this strong hold should make him to abide.
Musk's Threnodie, p. 172.
This tower is hollow, but without any staircase.
At the bottom are two rows of stones, projecting as
a sort of pedestal. It is 75 feet in height, and con-
sists of 64 regular courses of hewn stones. At the
base it measures 48 feet in circumference, but di-
minishes somewhat towards the top ; the thickness
of the wall being 3i feet at the bottom, and 3 at the
top. It has only one door, facing the north ; 8 feet
in height, 3 wide, and arched. Towards the top
are four windows ; they are equidistant ; 5 feet 9
inches in height, and 2 feet 2 inches in breadth ;
each being supported by two small pillars. Some
intelligent visitors assert, that, whatever may have
been the original design of this work, it has at one
time been used as a cemetery. Where the earth has
been dug up, to the depth of three feet, a number ot
human bones have been found in the exact position
in which they must have been interred ; which, it is
urged, would not have been the case, had they been
thrown in from the adjoining ground. It stands at
the corner of the present churchyard. ' South-west
from the town,' we are told in the ' Statistical Ac-
count,' 'there is a hill, called Castle-law. Tradition
says, that there was a fort upon the top of it.'
' This,' it is subjoined, ' probably served for one of
those watch-towers on which the Picts used to kin-
dle fires, on sudden invasions, insurrections, or the
approach of the enemy.' But if any place bids fair
to have been the site of a royal residence, this seems
to have a principal claim. It follows, however ;
' About a mile and a half east from Abernethy, a
little below the mansion-house of Carpow, stood the
ancient castle which belonged to the lords of Aber-
1 nethy ; part of its foundation may be still seen.'
j Now, it might be supposed that here, as in other in-
stances, the person who obtained the grant of roya)
domains would prefer the occupation of the ancient
j residence to the erection of a new one. The dis-
' tance would be no objection. For 1 have else-
ABERNETHY.
17
where proved, from the most ancient authority, that,
during the Pictish era, Abernethy was far more
extensive than it now is ; as the king, in his dona-
tion to St Brigid, extends its limits to a stone near
Carpow. I acknowledge, however, that the place
called Castle-law seems to claim the preference.
For, from the most minute inquiry, I learn that there
is a tradition, perfectly familar to every one in the
vicinity, that this was the residence of the ancient
Pictish kings. In confirmation of this article of
traditionary belief, an appeal is made, not only to
the vast quantity of stones still remaining on this
hill, but to the description of those that have been
carried off in successive ages. Unlike the materials
of the cairns, which are so commonly met with in
our country, these have, in a great measure, been
hewn stones. A house in the neighbourhood has,
of late, been entirely built of dressed stones carried
off from the Law. There seems, therefore, to
be no reason to doubt that this has been the site
of very extensive and superb buildings. The re-
mains of a surrounding moat are yet to be traced
on the west side. At the bottom of this hill, an
eminence is called the Quarrel-know, i. e. knoll,
where, according to tradition, the Picts were wont
to celebrate their military games. This may have
been its original appropriation, whence in later
ages it might continue to be employed for similar
purposes. But the name itself can hardly claim so
early an origin ; having most probably been given to
it, in an age in which the use of the cross-bow was
common, from the designation of the arrow shot
from it, which was called a quarrel; unless the
term should be traced to our old Scottish word
quarrell, or querell, denoting a quarry. The view
from this elevation has been deemed worthy of its
ancient royal honours, as scarcely excelled by any in
Scotland, — a country so rich in beautiful and pictur-
esque prospects. While the classic Earn unites with
the noble Tay at your feet, the eye is delighted
with the richness of the carse of Gowrie ; and the
prosperous town of Dundee is seen in the distance,
with the numerous sails that enliven the expanding
river in its course to what was anciently denominated
the Scythic sea.'' — hvthe south-west corner of the
parish, among the hills, stands Balvaird castle,
which belonged to the Murrays of Balvaird, in the
reign of Robert II. It is now the property of the
Earl of Mansfield, the lineal descendant of that
ancient house.
ABERNETHY, a parish partly in the shire of
Elgin, partly in that of Inverness ; bounded on the
north by Duthill and Inverallan parishes; on the east
by Banffshire ; on the south by Braemar ; and on the
west by the river Spey. The parish of Kincardine,
or Kinchardine, which belongs exclusively to Inver-
ness-shire, having been united to this parish about
the time of the Reformation, it is sometimes known as
the united parish of Abernethy and Kinchardine. The
name is descriptive of the situation of the kirk-town
with respect to the Nethy, being within a mile of the
fall of that stream into the Spey. The meaning of
the name Nethy, or Neich, is not known ; that of
Kinchardine, or Kinie-chairdin, is ' the Clan of
Friends.' It is 15 miles in length, measured from
Cromdale on the north to Rothiemurchus on the
south ; and from 10 to 12 in breadth. The surface
is highly diversified with haughs, woods, and moun-
tains. A stretch of about 3 miles of low land and
meadow, along the bank of the Spey, is often over-
flowed by that river, which here runs smooth and
slow. The arable ground bears but a small propor-
tion to the uncultivated. A great proportion of the
surface is covered with woods : on the Grant estate
alone there are 7,000 acres of natural fir-wood The
only river of any note, besides the Spey, is the
Nethy, which, rising on the northern side of the hills
to the east of Cairngorm, known as the Braes of
Abernethy, flows in a north-west direction through
the forests, and empties itself into the Spey, 4
miles above Grantown. It is about 12 miles in
length, and is a rapid running stream ; after rains, or
thaws, it swells so as to bring down the timber
that has been cut in the forests of Grant to the Spey,
whence it is sent in rafts to Garmouth. There is a
bridge over the Nethy about a mile above its con-
fluence with the Spey, having a water-way of 84
feet. A little to the east of the Nethy is the burn
of Cultmore. The Dualg burn flows into the Spey
about 4 miles above the Nethy. There are several
small lakes in Kincardine, the most considerable of
which is Loch Morlach, in Glenmore ■„ it is of an oval
form, and nearly two miles in diameter. It is in the
bottom of the glen, and surrounded with aged fir.
woods, which rise gradually towards the mountains.
It discharges itself into the Spey by the Morlach
burn, which is about 4 miles in length. In Glenmore
there is another small loch, in extent about one acre,
which abounds with small fat green trout. At the
foot of Cairngorm, about a mile from its base, is
Loch Avon, whence the river of that name issues.
At one end of this loch is a large natural cave, called
Chlachdhian, or 'the Sheltering stone.' Of the
mountains of this parish, Cairngorm, or ' the Blue
mountain,' is the most remarkable. It commands
an extensive view. The shires of Ross, Suther-
land, and Caithness, are seen from its summit. See
Cairngorm Besides agreat deal of birch and alder,
there are two very large fir forests in this parish.
The fir-wood of Abernethy, now belonging to the
earl of Seafield, is of great extent, and very thriving.
" It is not a very long time back," says the writer of
the old statistical account of this parish, " since the
laird of Grant got only a merk a-year for what a man
choosed to cut and manufacture with his axe and
saw; people now alive remember it at Is. 8d. a-year,
afterwards it came to 3s. 4d. and then the laird of
Rothiemurchus, commonly called Maccalpin, brought
it up to 5s. a-year, and 1 lb. of tobacco. Brigadier
Alexander Grant — who died in 1719 — attempted to
bring some masts from his woods of Abernethy to
London ; but though a man of great enterprize in his
military profession, did not persevere in this, owing
to the many difficulties he had to encounter, such as
the want of roads in the woods, skill in the country-
people, and all kinds of necessary implements.
About the year 1730, a branch of the York-building
company, purchased to the amount of about .£7,000
of these woods of Abernethy, and continued till
about the year 1737; the most profuse and profligate
set that ever were heard of then in this corner. This
was said to be a stock -jobbing business. Their ex-
travagancies of every kind ruined themselves, and
corrupted others. But .yet their coming to the country
was beneficial in many respects ; for, besides the know-
ledge and skill which was acquired from them, they
made many useful and lasting improvements ; they
cut roads through the woods ; they erected proper
saw-mills ; they invented the construction of the
raft, as it is at present, and cut a passage through a
rock in the Spey, without which, Boating to any extent
could never be attempted. Before their time, some
small trifling rafts were sent down Spey in a very
awkward and hazardous manner: 10 or 12 dozen of
deals, huddled together, conducted by a man, sitting
in what was called a currach, made of a hide, in the
shape and about the size of a small brewing-kettle,
broader above than below, with ribs or hoops of
wood in the inside, and a cross-stick for the man to
sit on ; who, with a paddle in his hand, went before
ABL
18
ABO
the raft, to which his currach was tied with a rope.
These cnrrachs were so light, that the men carried
them on their backs home from Speymouth."* The
duke of Gordon is proprietor of the fir- woods of Glen-
more, in the baron v of Kincardine. See Glenjiore.
Population, in 1801, 927; in 1831, 2,092, in 445 fa-
milies, of whom 204 families were employed in agri-
culture. Houses 436. The valued rent is .£1553
16s. Scots; the gross land-rent of the two parishes,
exclusive of the woods, is about £2500 sterling.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presby-
tery of Abernethy, and synod of Moray. Patron, the
Earl of Seafield. Stipend £234 2s. Id., with a glebe
valued at£7, and a manse. Unappropriated teinds£98.
Schoolmaster's salary £25 13s. 3id., with about £20
fees; scholars average 75. There is a small private
school. The church of Kincardine is 8 miles dis-
tant from the village of Abernethy. The parish-
minister officiates two successive sabbaths in Aber-
nethy church, and every third sabbath in that of Kin-
cardine. The latter church has sittings for 600; the
former, for 1,000. Both are well-built. — There is a
large oblong square building near the church, called
Castle-Roy, or the Red castle, one side measures 30,
the other 20 yards ; the height is about 10. It never
was roofed, has no loop-holes, and only one entrance
to the inside. Neither history nor tradition give any
account of it The Hon. John Grant, Chief-justice
of Jamaica, was a native of this parish ; and Francis
Grant, Lord Cullen, and Patrick Grant, Lord Pres-
tongrange, both eminent jurisconsults, and lords of
session, were connected with this parish. At Knock
of Kincardine was born, in 1700, John Stuart,
commonly called John Roy Stuart. He was a good
Gaelic poet.
The Rev. John Grant in his statistical account
of this parish, published in 1792, says : — " The
incumbent remembers when the people of this coun-
try kept out a watch in the summer-months, for
protecting their cattle, and these watches kept up
by a round of duty, and reliefs at certain periods."
Mr Grant also supplies the following anecdotes of
some of his clansmen : — " Robert Grant, commonly
called Bailie More, lived in this parish. It is said,
he used to hang people for disobliging him. He
seldom called juries: he hanged two brothers on a
tree within a thousand yards of this town, and buried
both in one grave on the roadside. The grave and
stones above it are still visible. Another, named
James Grant, commonly called Bailie Roy, who
lived long in this parish, hanged a man of the name
of Stuart, and after hanging him, set a jury on him
and found him guilty ! The bailie had many reasons
for being in such a hurry. The man was, unluckily
for him, wealthy, and abounded in cattle, horses,
sheep and goats, all of which were instantly driven
to the bailie's home; Stuart's children set a-begging,
and his wife became deranged in her mind, and was
afterward drowned in a river: it is not very long
since. This same Bailie Roy, on another occasion,
hanged two notorious thieves, parboiled their heads,
and set them up on spikes afterward. At another
time, he drowned two men in sacks, at the bridge of
Billimon, within a few hundred yards of this manse,
and endeavoured to compel a man from Gleninore,
in the barony of Kinehardine, to assist him and the
executioners he had with him in the business; which
the man refusing to do, the bailie said to him, ' If you
was within my regality, I would teach you better
manners than to disobey my commands.' This bailie
bought a good estate. There was another of them,
called Bailie Bain, in this country; who became so
* This description of the Spey currach i9 exactly that piven
by Herodotus of the vessels used by the natives in navigating
the Euphrates between Armenia and Babylon.
odious, that the country-people drowned him in
Spey, near the church of Inverallan, about. 2 miles
from hence. They took off his boots and gloves,
left them on the bank, and drove his horse through
a rugged place, full of large stones. The tract in
the sand, boots, &c, discovered what had become of
him ; and when a search was made for him down the
river, a man met the party near the church of Crom-
dale, who asked them what they were searching for?
they answered, ' For the bailie's body;' upon which
he said, ' Turn back, turn back, perhaps he is gone
up against the river, for he was always acting against
nature.' As their power was great, and generally
abused, so many of them enriched themselves. They
had many ways of making money for themselves ;
such as, 1. The bailie's darah, as it was called, or a
day's labour in the year from every tenant on the
estate. 2. Confiscations, as they generally seized
on all the goods and effects of such as suffered
capitally. 3. All fines for killing game, black-fish,
or cutting green wood, were laid on by themselves,
and went into their own pockets. These fines
amounted to what they pleased almost. 4. Another
very lucrative perquisite they had, was, what was
called the herial horse, which was, the best horse,
cow, ox, or other article, which any tenant on the
estate possessed at the time of his death. This was
taken from the widow and children for the bailie, at
the time they had most need of assistance. This
amounted to a great deal on a large estate. This
practice was abolished by the late Sir Ludovick
Grant in this country, in the year 1738."
ABERNYTE, a small parish in Perthshire;
bounded on the north by the parishes of Cargill and
Longforgan ; on the east by Longlorgan ; on the
south by Inchture ; and on the west by Kinnaird
and Collace parishes. It is nearly 3 miles in length,
by 2 at its greatest breadth ; area about 2600 acres,
of which nearly 1700 are under cultivation. The
kirk-town, near the centre of the parish, is situated
11 miles north-east of Perth; it stands in a fine
valley intersected by a stream flowing south-east
into the estuary of the Tay. The highest point in
the parish is the King's seat, on the northern ex-
tremity, which rises to the height of 1155 feet, and
commands a fine view southwards to the frith of
Forth. The general declination of the country is
towards the south-east. Population, in 1801,271;
in 1831, 254. Houses 46. Assessed property, £2,359.
Old valuation, £1126 13s. 4d. Scots This parish,
formerly a vicarage in the deanery of Dunkeld, is in
the presbytery of Dundee, and svnod of Angus and
Mearns. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £159 lis. 3d.
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £14. Church
rebuilt in 1736. There is a Burgher congregation,
and a parochial school Upon the top of a hill called
Glenhy-law in this parish, are two cairns supposed
to cover the remains of the slain in a feud between
the Grays of Fowlis, and the Bovds of Pitkindie.
ABERRUTHVEN. SeeAucHTERARDER, Perth-
shire.
ABERTARFF. See Boleskine.
ABINGTON, a village in the parish of Craw-
ford-John, Lanarkshire, 3 miles north of Crawford,
and at the junction of the road to Leadhills and
Sanquhar, with the post-road from Dumfries, by
Elvanfoot, to Glasgow. Gold is said to have been
obtained from mines wrought in this neighbourhood
during the reign of James VI. See Crawford.
ABOYNE, an extensive parish in Aberdeenshire,
composed of the districts of Aboyne and Glentanar,
or Glentanner ; and bounded by the parishes of Coull
and Lumphanan on the north ; by the parish of
Birse on the east ; by the Braes of Angus on the
south ; and by Glenmuick on the west. The culti-
ACH
19
AFT
vated part of the parish extends on both sides of the
Dee, from west to east, about 4 miles in length, and
3 in breadth ; but the mountains and forest of Glen-
tanar extend nearly 10 miles farther towards the
south. The soil is sandy and thin, particularly on
the banks of the Dee. The woods ot Abo^ne com-
prehend atiout 9J0 acres of Scotch firs and larches,
and the forest of Glentauar contains a cousideraule
extent of Scotch fir of natural growth. The district
of Glentauar is intersected by the Tanar, and its
tributaries the Gairtney, and the Aultroy burn,
and by the Old IXinny burn, both of which flow
northwards into the Dee. The main line of road
through this parish pursues the vale of the Dee;
another line of road on the east side of the parish,
strikes southward into Angus, by Birse castle.
The title of Earl of Aboyne merged, in 1836, in that
of Marquis of Huntly. It was created by Charles II.
in 1660. Population, in 1801, 916; in 1831, 1,163.
Houses 24". Assessed property, £2,069 This
parish is in the presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil,
and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Marquis of
Huntly. Stipend, £ 160 15s. Id., with a manse and
glebe. Schoolmaster's salary £26, with .£12 school
fees ; scholars average 50. There is a private school
with about 40 scholars. See Glentanar.
ACHAISTAL. See Latheron.
ACHANDUIM. See Lismore.
A.CHESON'S HAVEN, a small harbour near
Prestonpans, in the county of East Lothian. It
was constructed by the monks of Newbottle, on
their grange of Preston. It is often named Morrison's
haven from one of its later proprietors.
ACHILTY LOCH. See Contin.
ACHINDAVY, or Auchendavie, a hamlet on
the Kelvin, in the shire of Dumbarton and parish of
Kirkintilloch ; 2 miles east of Kirkintilloch. This
was a Roman station, on Antoninus's wall, vulgarly
called Gryme's dyke ; and, in May 1771, as the
workmen were carrying on the great Forth and
Clyde canal near this place, they discovered four
altars, a mutilated bust, and two great iron mallets,
in the tract of the canal, about nine feet below the
surface of the earth ; in a pit which appeared to be
about seven feet diameter at the top, and three at
the bottom. The inscriptions upon the altars inform
us that they were erected by a centurion of the Se-
cond legion. General Roy has given a plan of this
station in plate 35 of his ' Military Antiquities,' and
engravings of the several antiquities in plate 38 of
that work.
ACHNACRAIG, or Auchnacraig, a small har-
bour on the east coast of the island of Mull, at the
entrance of Loch-Don, in the parish of Torosay ;
IS miles south-east from Aros ; and 132 west by-
north from Edinburgh. A post-office is established
here. This is the principal ferry of Mull, first to the
opposite isle of Kerrera, a distance of 7 miles ; and
thence to the main-land near Oban, a distance of 4
miles; and from hence vast numbers of horses and
black cattle are annually transported for the lowland
markets. There is a good road from hence to Aros.
See Mull.
ACHRAY (Loch,) a beautiful sheet of water
in Perthshire, between Loch-Katrine and Loch-
Vennachar, and at a nearly equal distance from both.
With these lakes it is connected by two small
streams, — one of which flows into its western extre-
mity from Loch-Katrine, while the other, issuing
from its eastern end, carries its waters into Loeh-
Vennachar. The lake receives its name from the
farm of Achray, situated on its south-western shore ;
the term in Gaelic signifies ' the level field.' Loch-
Achray, therefore, means 'the lake of the level
field.' Compared with either of its sister-lochs,
Loch- Achray is but of small dimensions ; its utmost
length being about a mile, and its breadth scarcely
half-a-mile ; but the epithet ' lovely' has been, with
peculiar propriety, applied to this lake by Sir Wal-
ter Scott, as it is hardly possible to conceive any
natural scenery more lovely than that presented by
the shores of Loch- Achray. The northern shore is
bold and rocky, but its harsher features are softened
by a rich covering of wood and ' bosky tliickets' to
the water's edge, —
" the copsewood irrey,
That waves and weeps on Loch-Achray."
On the south, the ground rises more gradually liom
the lake, but it is mostly clad with heath. This
soft and gentle character, however, can only be ap-
plied to the lake, its bays and shores, and their
immediate vicinity; for beyond this we have lofty
mountains rearing their rugged and often cloud-
capp'd heads in awful majesty, and deep and silent
glens and ravines through which the upland streams
seek their way to the lakes. On the shores of
Loch-Achray we are still within the power of the
magician's spell ; and so thoroughly has he peopled
the visions of our fancy with the creations of his
own imagination that we look for the localities of
his poem, as we did at Loch- Katrine, with as perfect
a faith, and gaze on them when found with as much
devotion, as we should on the scenes of some of the
most important transactions in our national annals.
Along these shores the messenger of Roderic Dhu
carried the fiery cross, to alarm and call to the ren-
dezvous the sons of Alpine ; and he who, giving him-
self up to the magic influence of the minstrel's
strain, delights to blend together the real truth
and the ideal in his conceptions, will remember how
" Fast as the fatal symbol flies.
In arms the huts and hamlets rise ;
From winding glen, from upland brown,
They pour'd each hardy tenant down."
Near the east end of Loch-Achray, and before the
traveller from Callander approaches it, he passes
over ' the Brigg of Turk,' one of the localities of
the poem. See Glenfinlass.
ADD (The), a river in Argyleshire, which has
its source in some marshes in the north-western ex-
tremity of the parish of Kilmichael ; and in its
winding course southward, by the junction of several
tributary rivulets, forms a considerable body of
water. It flows through the moss of Crinan, and
falls into the sea at Inner Loch-Crinan, on the west
coast of Argyleshire, There is a salmon-fishery at
its mouth ; and the stream itself abounds with trout.
ADVIE, an ancient vicarage and district, partly
in Elgin, partly in Inverness-shire, now compre.
hended in the parish of Cromdale; 8 miles north-
east from Granton. This district contains the barony
of Advie on the eastern, and the barony of Tulchen on
the western side of the Spey: these baronies, anciently
a part of the estate of the earl of Fife, came to the
family of Ballendalloch in the 15th century, with
whom they continued, until sold to Brigadier Alex-
ander Grant.
AE (The), or Water of Ae, a small river in
Dumfries-shire, which has its rise at the southern
foot of Queensberry-hill, runs south for some miles
to Glencross in Kirkmahoe, forming the boundary
between Closeburn and Kirkmichael parishes ; then
bending its course south-eastward, forms a junction
at Esby with the Kinnel, a branch of the Annan. Its
tributaries are the Deer burn, the Branet burn,
Capple water, and Glenkill burn. Its length of
course, including windings, is about 16 miles.
;EBUD^, and JEUODJE. See Hebrides.
AFTON, a small river in Ayrshire, a tributary to
AIG
20
AIR
the Nith. It rises in the south-eastern extremity of
New Cumnock parish, and flows north-west through
Glen-Afton, to New Cumnock, a little below which
it falls into the Nith, after a course of 6 miles.
AIGASH, or Ealan-Aigas, a beautiful island,
5i miles south-west from Beauly, formed by the river
Beauly, which here divides into two branches. It
is of an oval figure, about H mile in circumference;
and contains about 50 acres. It is principally com-
posed of a mass of pudding-stone rising in an abrupt
manner about 100 feet above the level of the water,
but communicating with the mainland by a bridge.
It is covered with natural wood of birch and oak,
and is much frequented by roes, and occasionally by-
red deer. To this island Simon, Lord Lovat, con-
ducted the dowager Lady Lovat, when letters of fire
and sword were issued against him in 1697 ; and here,
in a crow-stepped building in the old Scottish style,
erected by Lord Lovat, reside the only descendants
of Prince Charles Edward Stuart. See Kilmorack.
AILSA CRAIG, sometimes called The Perch
of Clyde, a stupendous insulated rock, or rather
mountain, in the mouth of the frith of Clyde, be-
tween the coasts ot Ayrshire and Kintyre ; in N. lat.
55° 15' 13" ; W. long. 5° 7', accordingto Galbraith ,
but according to Norie, in N. lat. 55° 17' 0" ; W. long.
5° 8' 0". From the islet of Pladda it is distant 10'
20" direct south. It is a mass of columnar syenetic
trap, shooting up in a conical form, to an altitude of
1, 1 00 feet according to Macculloch, from an elliptical
base of 3,300 feet in the major axis, by 2,200 in the
minor. Its formation is distinctly columnar, espe-
cially on the western side in which the rock rises
quite perpendicularly from the sea. Dr Macculloch
says, that "if a single pillar be examined near at
band it will be found far less decided in shape than
those of Staffa or Skye, while the whole mass ap-
pears as if blended together, not as if each column
could be separated ; but, when viewed in the mass,
the general effect of a columnar and regular struc-
ture is as perfect as on the north coast of Skye,"
while the diameter of the columns far exceed those
of Skye, ranging from 6 to 9 feet, and, in one place,
attaining an unbroken altitude of nearly 400 feet.*
The only landing-place is on the east side, where
there is a small beach formed by fallen fragments of
the rock. From this, an easy ascent of 200 feet
conducts us to the ruins of a square building of which
nothing is known, though Macculloch conjectures it
may have been an eremitical establishment depen-
dent on Lamlash in Arran. Beyond this building
the ascent is extremely laborious, the visitor having
to force his way over fragments of rock, and through
a forest of gigantic nettles. Not far from the sum-
mit are two copious springs; the summit itself is
covered with fine herbage, but affords only a scanty
and somewhat perilous footing. The rock is in-
habited by a few rabbits and goats, and myriads of
solan geese, puffins, cormorants, auks, and gulls. It
is the property of the Earl of Cassillis, who draws an
annual rent of about ^630 for it, and who takes the
title of Marquis from it. The aspect of this vast and
' craggy ocean pyramid' " from any distance, and in
every direction," says Macculloch, " is very grand,
and conveys an idea of a mountain of far greater
magnitude ; since, as its beautiful cone rises sudden-
ly out of the sea, there is no object with which it can
be compared. From its solitary and detached posi-
tion also, it frequently an ests the flight of the clouds,
hence deriving a misty hue which more than doubles
its altitude to the imagination ; while the cap of
* If tliis be correct, they are tile largest specimens of colum-
nar basalt yet known. Tbo.se of the Fairbead, at the Giant's
causeway, measure only 317 feet in altitude, according to the
Ordnance trigonometrical Survey.
cloud which so often covers its summit, helps to
produce, by concealing its height, the effect — in-
variable in such cases — of causing it to appear fai
higher than it really is ; adding that appearance o(
mystery to which mountains owe so much of their
consequence. What Ailsa promises at a distance, it
far more than performs on an intimate acquaintance.
If it has not the regularity of Staffa, it exceeds that
island as much in grandeur and variety as it does in
absolute bulk. There is indeed nothing, even in the
columnar scenery of Skye or in the Shiant isles,
superior as these are to Staffa, which exceeds, if it
even equals, that of Ailsa. In point of colouring,
these cliffs have an infinite advantage ; the sobriety
of their pale grey stone, not only harmonizing with
the subdued titits of green, and with the colours of
the sea and the sky, but setting off to advantage all
the intricacies of the columnar structure ; while, in
all the Western islands where this kind of scenery
occurs, the blackness of the rocks is, not only often
inharmonious and harsh, but a frequent source of ob-
scurity and confusion. Those who are only de-
sirous of viewing one example of that romantic and
wonderful scenery which forms the chief attraction
of the more distant islands, will be pleased to know
that, within a day's sail of Greenock, and without
trouble, they may see what cannot be eclipsed by
Staffa, or Mull, or Skye, if even it can be equalled by
any of them."
AIRD. See Coigach.
AIRD (Castle of), an extensive ruin, supposed
to be the remains of a Danish fortification, situated
on a rocky promontory a little to the north of Cara-
dell point, on the eastern side of Kintyre, opposite
Machry bay in the island of Arran.
AIRD (The), a fertile district of Inverness-shire,
in the vale of the Beauly, chiefly the property of
different branches of the clan Fraser.
AIRD (The), a small peninsula on the east coast
of the island of Lewis, with which it is connected
by the isthmus of Stornoway. It measures 5 miles
in extreme length from Tuimpan-head on the north-
east, to Chicken-head on the south-west; its aver-
age breadth is about 2i miles. It is in the parish of
Stornoway, to which, in ancient times, it formed a
chapelry called Ui or Uy. The old chapel is in
ruins, but the inhabitants attend a government chapel
at Knock. See articles Lewis and Stornoway.
AIRD or AIRDSf (The), a beautiful district of
Appin in Argyleshire, lying between the Linnhe loch
on the west, and Loch Creran on the south and east.
" I do not know a place," says Macculloch, " where
all the elements — often incongruous ones — of moun-
tains, lakes, wood, rocks, castles, sea, shipping, and
cultivation, are so strangely intermixed, — where
they are so wildly picturesque, — and where they pro-
duce a greater variety of the most singular and un-
expected scenes." The promontory of Ardmuck-
nish, richly clothed with oak-coppice, is a remarkably
fine object here.
AIRDNAMURCHAN. See Ardnamurchan.
AIRD POINT, the north-east extremity of the
isle of Skye, nearly opposite the mouth of the Gair-
loch in Ross-sbire.
AIRDLE (The), a considerable tributary of the
Erroch river, in the north-east quarter of Perthshire.
It is formed by the union of two streams, — one de-
scending from the Grampians, in the East Forest of
Athole, through Glen Fernal, — and the other flowing
from the west through Glen Brerachan. These
f From the instances above enumerated it may be conjectur-
ed that the general signification ol this word aird, or ard, in
Gaelic, is that of a point, or promontory, or rising ground ; and
in this sense it usually occurs in Gaelic and Irish topography.
The form ard is, however, the more common of the two.
AIR
21
AIR
streams unite at Tulloch, and assume the name of
the Airdle, which flows south-east through Strath-
Airdle in the parish of Kirkmichael, and unites with
the Shee a little below Nether Claquhair. The two
united streams form the Ekkoch : which see. The
total course of the Airdle is about 13 miles.
AIRDRIE, a market-town, burgh of barony, and
municipal borough, quoad civilia in the parish of New
Monkland, and county of Lanark ; on the principal
line of road between Glasgow and Edinburgh ; 11
miles east by north from the former, and 32 west by
south from the latter. It occupies a slightly rising
ground sloping westwards, but presenting no marked
or interesting features. A little more than a century
ago, a solitary farm-hamlet occupied the site of this
large, well-built, manufacturing town. It now num-
bers 6,000 inhabitants, 174 of whom, in 1835, rented
property within borough of an yearly rental of .£10,
and 171, property of an yearly rent of £5. The
total rental is about £6,700. Its owes its rapid
growth chiefly to the extensive and rich beds of
ironstone and coal which surround it, and the con-
sequent opening of iron- works and collieries in the
neighbourhood ; its proximity to Glasgow has also
given it a large share in the weaving-orders of the
western manufacturers ; while it enjoys frequent
daily intercourse by coaches, with Edinburgh, and
by coaches, canal, and railroad with Glasgow. By the
Monkland Canal alone (see that article) upwards
of 50,000 passengers were conveyed between Airdrie
and Glasgow in the year 1837. See also Glasgow
and Garnkirk Railway. The streets are lighted
with gas, and well-paved; a market for grain is
held in the town every Thursday ; and fairs are held
on the last Tuesday in May and third Tuesday of
November. The National bank, the Bank of Scot-
land, and the Western bank of Scotland, have
branches here. This town was erected into a free
burgh of barony in 1821, by act of 1° and 2° Geo.
IV. c. 60. Under the late Municipal act the magis-
tracy consists of a provost, three baillies, a treasurer,
and seven councillors. The property of the town,
in 1834, amounted to £1,670; its revenue, in 1833,
was £324, of which £18S consisted of road-money
levied in 1832 and 1833. The magistrates are pa-
trons of the town's school, at which about 120 pupils
in summer, and 80 in winter, attend. A neat town-
house has been recently built. Airdrie unites with
Lanark, Hamilton, Falkirk, and Linlithgow, in re-
turning a member to parliament. There is a mineral
well of a sulphurous quality, called Monkland well,
near Airdrie Chalmers is of opinion that Airdrie is
the Arderyth of the British Triads, on the heights
of which Rydderech the Bountiful, king of Strath-
cluyd, in 577, defeated Aidan the Perfidious, king of
Kintyre, and slew Givenddolan the patron of Mer-
lin, who was also engaged in the battle. [See Welsh
Archaeol. vol. I. p. 151.] This town has recently
been divided into two quoad sacra parishes, viz. :
East Airdrie This parish was divided quoad
sacra from the parish of New Monkland, by the
General Assembly, in 1834. — Its population was es-
timated in 1836 at 3,389, of whom 1,496 belonged
to the establishment. Its parish-church is the old
chapel-of-ease which was built in 1797 ; sittings 588.
Stipend £120, derived solely from seat-rents. The
Reformed Presbyterian church was built in 1795 ;
sittings 450. Stipend £80, with a manse and garden.
West Airdrie This parish was divided quoad
sacra, by the presbytery of Hamilton, from the
parish of New Monkland, in 1835. Population,
in 1836, 3,685, of whom 1,479 belonged to the
established church. Church opened in 1835 ; sit-
tings 1,200; cost £2,370. Stipend £105.— The
United Secession congregation church was built in
1790; sittings 650. Stipend £120, with manse and
garden. — The Original Burgher congregation was
established in 1804. Church cost £500 ; sittings 504.
Stipend £80, with manse and garden. — An Indepen-
dent chapel was opened here in August 1839.
AIRDS MOSS, a large tract of elevated muir-
land in the district of Kyle, Ayrshire ; lying between
the water of Ayr on the north, and Lugar water on
the south. The road from Cumnock to Muirkirk
may be regarded as its extreme eastern boundary, and
that from Cumnock to Catrine as its extreme west-
ern. It is chiefly in the parish of Auchinleck ; but
the uncultivated tract of moss does not exceed 5
miles in length, by 2 in breadth ; the declination is
towards the south-west. At its head, or eastern
extremity, about half-a-mih to the west of the road
from Cumnock to Muirkirk, is a monument to the
memory of Richard Cameron of famous memory in
the annals of Scottish martyrology, who, with eight
of his adherents, fell here in a skirmish with a de-
tachment of dragoons under Earlshall. The original
monument was a large flat stone simply inscribed
with the name of Cameron and his fellow-martyrs,
and familiarly known as Cameron's stone ; but by
the pious care of a few individuals the present monu-
ment was erected a few years ago. The skirmish in
which these worthies perished took place about 3
or 4 o'clock in the afternoon, on the 20th of July,
1680. Cameron's party — who had been on the moors
all the preceding nights — amounted to 23 horsemen,
and 40 foot, all very ill-armed. The king's party
amounted to about 1 12, all well-armed and mounted.
AIRLIE, a parish in Forfarshire ; bounded on the
north by Kingoldrum parish ; on the east by Kirrie-
muir and Glammis ; on the south by Essey parish
and Perthshire ; and on the west by Perthshire,
Ruthven parish, and Lintrathen. Its greatest
length is 6 miles ; greatest breadth 4. The super-
ficial area is about 6,000 acres, of which nearly five-
sixths are in a state of high cultivation. The gen-
eral declination is towards the Isla river, which
skirts the parish on the western side, and receives
two small tributary streams rising in the parish.
The Dean river, a sluggish stream flowing from the
loch of Forfar, forms its southern boundary. There
are extensive plantations on the northern side ; and
on the western side was an extensive moss, called
Baikie moss, covering 128 acres, now drained and
under cultivation. Of Baikie castle, the property
of the last Viscount Fenton, few traces now exist.
In the north-west point of the parish, where the
river Melgam, flowing south-west through a deep
ravine, joins the Isla river, 5 miles north of Meigle,
stood the ancient castle of Airlie, — ■' the bonnie
house of Airlie,' of Scottish song, — once the resi-
dence of the Ogilvies, earls of that name, but de-
stroyed, along with Furtour house, another seat of
the earl's, by the Marquis of Argyle, by order of the
Committee of Estates, in 1640. The place had been
regarded as an almost impregnable strength by na-
ture, and had already, under Lord Ogilvie, who had
been left in command by his father the earl, resisted
a party under Montrose and Kinghorn ; but on
Argyle 's approach with 5,000 men, the garrison fled.
The modern house of Airlie is a beautiful mansion,
most picturesquely situated. Population of the
parish in 1801, 1,041 ; in 1831, 1,860. Houses 160.
Assessed property, £5,772. This parish is in the
presbytery of Meigle, and synod of Angus and
Mearns. Patron, the Earl of Strathmore. Church
built in 1791 ; sittings 411. Stipend £219 Is. 5d„
with a glebe valued at £12, and a manse. School-
master's salary £34 4s. 4^d., with £13 fees; aver-
age number of pupils 30. There is a private school
with about the same attendance.
AIR
22
ALB
AIRTfl, a parish in Stirlingshire ; bounded on
the north and east by the frith of Forth, along
which it extends about 6 miles ; on the south by
Bothkenner and Larbert parishes ; and on the west
by St Ninians. Its greatest breadth is about 3 miles.
The general declination is towards the Forth. A
small stream, which rises near the centre of St
Ninians parish, flows eastwards with a meandering
course through this parish, and discharges itself into
the Forth at Higgin's Neuck. Stream-tides flow
above a mile up this rivulet, which is liable to sud-
den and extensive floods. On the western side of
the parish were formerly two extensive mosses, — one
of nearly 500 acres, called the Moss of Dunmore ;
and the other, to the south of it, called the Moss of
Letham. These — which might be remains of the
great Caledonian forest: — have almost disappeared be-
fore the progress of cultivation ; and on the side of
the frith also a considerable quantity of rich land has
been reclaimed from the sea, which in ancient times
certainly covered a great portion of the lowlands in
this parish. The hills of Dunmore and Airth are
very beautiful wooded eminences, towards the centre
of the parish, both commanding a tine view of the
frith. Coal is extensively wrought in their neigh-
bourhood. There are three small harbours on the
coast : viz., Airth, Dunmore, and Newmiln; and two
ferries across the frith ; one at Kersie, where the
frith is about half-a-mile in breadth ; and the other
at Higgin's Neuck, where the breadth is nearly a
mile. The town of Airth is near the coast, about 5
miles direct north of Falkirk ; on the coast-road to
and from Stirling and the East country. The writer
of the first Statistical account of the parish, says :
" The trade in Airth, prior to the year 1745, was
very considerable, but has since been on the decline,
owing to a number of vessels being burnt at that
period. The occasion of this was, that the rebels,
having seized a small vessel at a narrow part of the
river called Fallin, by means of it transported a num-
ber of small brass cannon to the harbours of Airth
and Dunmore, near each of which they erected bat-
teries and placed their cannon. Upon the king's
vessels coming from Leith to dislodge them, a reci-
procal tiring took place. The commanders of the
king's vessels, finding their efforts ineffectual, sailed
down the river with the tide, and gave orders to
burn all the vessels lying on the river-side, to pre-
vent them falling into the bands of the rebels, who
might have used them as transports, and harassed
the people on both sides of the river. The loss of
these vessels was severely felt by the trading-people
in Airth, and tiade has since removed to Carronshore
and Grangemouth.'' Population, in 1801, 1,855; in
1831, 1,825, of whom 152 families were chiefly em-
ployed in agriculture, and 110 in trades. Houses
232. Assessed property, £11,159. Valued Scots
rent, £8,638 This parish, formerly a vicarage be-
longing to the bishop of Edinburgh, is in the pres-
bytery of Stirling, and synod of Perth and Stirling.
The church is a very handsome Gothic building of
recent erection. Patron, Graham of Airth. Stipend
.£281 12s., with a glebe valued at £27, and a manse.
Unappropriated teinds £1,489 3s. 2d. School-
master's stipend £34, with i'40 fees ; average num-
ber of scholars 90. There are two private schools.
. — There are three ancient castles or towers in this
parish : viz., that of Airth, known as Wallace's cas-
tle, from that hero having surprised and cut off an
English garrison in it, and now forming a part of the
modern building called by the same name ; that of
Dunmore ; and that of Powfouls. The principal
seats are Airth castle, Dunmore house, and Higgin's
Neuck, or according to more modern orthography,
Nook.
AIRTHRIE, a small hamlet of Stirlingshire,
which may now be regarded as forming part of the
picturesque vdlage called the Bkidge op Allan :
see that article. It is here that the wells resorted
to by the visitors at Bridge of Allan are situated.
The Airthrie mineral spring holds upwards of one-
third more of the mineral salts in solution than the
waters of Dunblane, and one-half more than those
of Pitcaithley. The following is Dr Thomson's
analysis of this spring : —
Common salt.
Muriate of lime,
Sulphate of lime,
In 1,000 grains.
5-1
4674
0 28
in one pint.
37-45
34-32
1-91
10034
73 r'>8
Pitcaithley water, according to Dr Murray's analysis,'
contains 34 '3 grains salts in one pint ; and Dun-
blane water 45'9. The specific gravity of Airthrie
water is 1 '00714.
AITHSTING, a parish in the Mainland of Shet-
land, united with that of Sandsting about the time
of the Reformation. It is a hilly moorland district.
The minister of the united parishes preaches every
third Sunday at the old parish church of Aithsting,
which is still upheld by the people for that purpose.
It is about 2i miles distant from the parish-church
of Sandsting, with a sound intervening. See Sand-
sting. The bay of Aith affords good anchorage.
ALBANY, Albion, or Albinn, the ancient
Gaelic name of Scotland, and, until Caesar's time,
the original appellation of the whole island. The
Scottish Celts denominate themselves Gael Albinn
or Albinnich, in distinction from those of Ireland
whom they call Gael Eirinnich ; and the Irish them-
selves call the Scottish Gaels Albannaich ; while
their writers, so late as the 12th century, call the
country of the Scottish Gael Alban. With respect
to the etymology of the name Albinn or Albion, it is
to be observed, in the first place, that it is com-
pounded of two syllables, the last of which, inn,
signifies in Celtic a large island. Thus far the ety-
mology is clear, but the meaning of the adjective
part, alb, is not so apparent. Dr John Macpherson
thinks it folly to search for a Hebrew or Phoenician
etymon of Albion, and he considers the prefix alb as
denoting a high country, the word being, in his
opinion, synonymous with the Celtic vocable alp or
alba, which signifies high. " Of the Alpes Grajae,
Alpes Paeninae or Penninse, and the Alpes Bastar-
nicie, every man of letters has read. In the ancient
language of Scotland, alp signifies invariably an emi-
nence. The Albani, near the Caspian sea, the Al-
bani of Macedon, the Albani of Italy, and the Al-
banich of Britain, had all the same right to a name
founded on the same characteristical reason, the
height or roughness of their respective countries.
The same thing may be said of the Gaulish Albici,
near Massilia." Deriving alb from the Latin word
albus, the appellation of Albinn would denote an
island distinguished by some peculiarity either in the
whiteness of its appearance or in the productions of
its soil, and hence Pliny derives the etymon of Al-
bion from its white rocks washed by the sea, or from
the abundance of white roses which the island pro-
duced. His words are, " Albion insula sic dicta ab
albis rupibus, quas mare alluit, vel ob rosas albas
quibus abundat." But although the whitish appear-
ance of the English cliffs, as seen from the channel
and the opposite coast of Gaul, certainly appears to
support the supposition of Pliny, yet it is evidently
contrary to philological analogy to seek for the ety-
mon of Albion in the Latin. Amongst the various
opinions given on this subject, that of Dr Macpherson
seems to be the most rational. The term Albani/,
ALB
23
ALF
or Alban, became ultimately the peculiar appellation
of an extensive Highland district comprehending
Breadalbane, Athole, part of Lochaber, Appin, and
Olenorchy. The title Duke of Albany was first
created for a younger son of Robert II. It became
extinct in his son Murdoch, who was beheaded by
James I. James II. renewed it for his second son
Alexander ; in whose sou it again became extinct.
Since the Union it has always been borne by the
king's second son.
ALBION parish. See Glasgow.
ALDCLUYD. See Dumbarton.
ALD CAMUS, or Old Cahbus, an ancient
vicarage in Berwickshire, annexed at an unknown
but early date to the parish of Cockburnspath. The
church has long been in ruins; but its remains,
known by the name of St Helen's chapel, are still
visible on the summit of a lofty precipice overhang-
ing the sea, li mile south-east of Dunglass. It is
stated in the last Statistical account of Cockburns-
path parish, published in 1835, that a number of
silver coins of Athelstan the Great were recently
found here. See Cockburnspath.
ALDCATHIE, or Alcatht, an ancient parish
in Linlithgowshire, now annexed to Dalmeny :
which see.
ALDHAM, an ancient parish on the north-east
coast of the shire of Haddington, now annexed to
the parish of Whitekirk : which see. The ruins of
the chapel may still be traced, on the summit of the
lofty sea-beach a little to the eastwards of Tantallon
castle.
ALDIE, an ancient barony in the parish of Fos-
saway, Perthshire, originally belonging to the earls
of Tullibardine, but which came by marriage into the
family of Mercer of Meiklour, and is now the pro-
perty of Lady Keith, Countess Flahault. The ham-
let of Aldie is about 2 miles south by east of the
Crook of Devon. Aldie castle, once the family-seat
of the Mercers, is now in ruins.
ALE (The), a small stream of Berwickshire,
which rises in the north-east of the parish of Cold-
ingham, and runs south-east, skirting the East coast
post-road, till its junction with the Eye, after a
course of about 7 miles, at a point about 1 mile
above Eyemouth.
ALEMOOR LOCH, a small sheet of water in
^the parish of Roberton, Selkirkshire, fed by a num-
ber of streamlets descending from the high grounds
towards the west and south, and discharging its
waters by the Ale, which, emerging from the north-
east point of the loch, flows south-eastwards, and
falls into the Teviot, a little below Ancruji : which
see. This lake, Leyden informs us, is regarded with
superstitious horror by the common people, as being
the residence of the water-cow, an imaginary amphi-
bious monster. A tradition also prevails in the dis-
trict that an infant was once seized, while disporting
on the ' willowy shore' of this loch, by an erne, a
species of eagle, which, on being pursued, dropped
its ' hapless prey' into the waters. Leyden has
introduced this incident with thrilling effect in his
Scenes of Infancy,' in the lines commencing
" Sad is the wail that floats o'er Alemoor's lake,
And nightly bids her «ulfs unbottomed quake,
While moonbeams, sailing o'er the waters blue,
Reveal the frequent tinge of blood-red hue."
ALEXANDRIA, a pleasantly situated village in
the parish of Bonhill, Dumbartonshire ; on the west-
em bank of the Leven, on the road from Dumbar-
ton to the Balloch ferry ; 3i miles north from Dum-
barton, and a little more than 1 south of the ferry.
The population is considerable, and chiefly engaged
in the neighbouring cotton-printing works. There
are a handsome extension church, with about 1,000
sittings; and a neat Independent chapel here.
ALFORD, a district in the south-west of Aber.
deenshire, comprehending the parishes of Alford,
Auchindoir, Clatt, Glenbucket, Keig, Kildrummy,
Kinnethmont, Lochell-cushnie, Rhynie and Essie,
Strathdon, Tullynessle with Forbes, Tough, Towir,
and part of Cabrach, which is mostly in the shire ol
Banff. The entire population of this district, in 1831.
was 11,923, of whom 1,291 families were engaged in
agriculture. The number of inhabited houses was
2,321. This district is nearly surrounded on everv
side by hills and mountains, and there is no entran ce
to the greater part of it but by ascending consider-
able heights to gain the passes between them. The
climate is good. Its distance from the ocean occa-
sions more intense frosts and longer lying snows ; but,
on the other hand, the surrounding mountains pro
tect and cover the country from the north-east fogs
and winds which are so unfavourable to vegetation
in less-sheltered situations and places upon the coast.
Besides several inferior streams, Alford is watered
by the Don, which, rushing through a narrow gullet
amongst the mountains on the west, winds its course,
in a direction from west to east, through the whole
length of the district ; and flows out through a
narrow valley encompassed on the north by Benno-
chie, which here rises into high and magnificent Al-
pine tops. See Bennochie.
Alford Parish is in length, from south-west
to north-east, about 7 or 8 miles ; and is from 3 to 5
in breadth. It contains nearly 8,000 Scotch acres ;
of which there were, in 1796, nearly 3,600 arable,
3,700 of hill, muir, moss, and pasture-grounds, and
about 700 of wood. Population, in 1801, 644; in
1831, 894. Assessed property, .£2,616. The soil
on the banks of the Don is generally a good light
loam. In the eastern part of the parish, the soil is
in some places a deep loam ; in others, a strong clay ;
and sometimes a mixture of both. In this quarter,
and the adjoining parish of Tough, there was former-
ly a large marsh, now called the Strath of Tough or
Kincraigie, which was partially drained in the end of
the 17th century. There were anciently weekly
markets held at Meiklendovie in this parish, and
great yearly fairs at that place, and the kirk-town ot
Alford. Those at Meiklendovie have been discon-
tinued for many years ; but there are still monthly
fairs at the kirk-town, for the sale of cattle, horses,
sheep, and small wares. Two roads cross each other,
in this parish, a little to the north-east of the kirk-
town: viz. the Great Northern road, which leads from
Fettercairn, over the Cairn of Month, to Htintly ; and
the road which goes from Aberdeen to Corgarff, a
military station on the sources of Don. On the former
of these lines is the bridge of Alford over the Don,
a little below its junction with the Lochel, built in
1811. It is of 3 arches, having a water-way of 128
feet, and cost £2,000. It is 14 miles distant from the
bridge of Potarch over the Dee, on the same line of
road — There are twoold fortalices in this parish ; one
of them, Astoune, seems to have been a place of some
strength. The river Don here abounds with trout,
and, after high floods, with salmon. Besides the Don,
there are several inferior streams well-stocked with
trout, &c. Upon one of them, the Lochel, a bridge
was built by Mr Melvine, then clergyman of the
parish, in the end of the 17th century; and it is still
kept in good repair, by a mortification of 100 merks,
which he left in the charge of the minister and kirk-
session for that purpose This parish is in the pres-
bytery of Alford, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron,
the Crown. Stipend £206 17s. 4d., with a manse,
glebe, and fuel. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4^d.,
with about £10 fees. Average number of scholars
ALI
24
ALL
54. The church is old, and bears date 1603. The '
manse was built in 1718.— In this parish, the Marquis
of Montrose, upon the 2d July 1645, signally defeated
Baillie, one of the generals of the Covenant ; but his
cause sustained an irreparable loss in the death of
Lord Gordon, eldest son of the Marquis of Huntly,
who fell by a random shot, in the pursuit, near a large
stone which is still pointed out by the country peo-
ple. About 90 years ago, some men, while casting
peats, dug up the body of a man on horseback and
in complete armour, who had probably perished
either in the pursuit or flight from this engagement.
Upon the top of a hill in this parish, there is an im-
mense cairn, 120 yards in circumference, and of a pro-
portionable height. Of this monument, there is no
very distinct tradition, though some legends represent
it as marking the burial-place of a brother of one of
the kings of Scotland. Nor can any more certain ac-
count be given of a large cairn which stood at a place
called Caimballoch.
ALINE (Loch) a beautiful little arm of the
sound of Mull, connected with the sound by a very
narrow channel, and penetrating about 2 miles into
the most interesting district of Morven. The sides
are steep and woody, and towards the head assume
a rugged and picturesque appearance. Two streams
flow into it at the head, at opposite angles ; the one
descends from Loch- na-Cuirn, through LochTernate,
and falls into the north-east corner of the loch; the
other, and larger stream, flows through Glen-Dow,
skirting the western base of Ben-Mean, receives at
Claggan a tributary from Glen-Gell, on the eastern
side of Ben-Mean, and discharges itself into Loch
Aline on the north-west point. Loch Arienas flows
into the latter stream, by a small rivulet. At the bead
of Loch Aline is a tine old square fortaliee, picturesque-
ly situated on a bold rock overhanging the loch.
ALLAN (The), a tributary of the Teviot, rising
on the southern skirts of Cavers parish, and flowing
in a north-east direction, through a lovely pastoral
vale, till its junction with the Teviot at Allanmouth
peel, a mile above Branxholm.
ALLAN (The), a river of Perthshire, and tribu-
tary of the Forth, famed for its picturesque scenery,
and giving name to the fertile district of Strathallan.
Its head-springs descend in a south-eastern direction
from the Braes of Ogilvie ; the united stream first
runs west ; and then turns south-west, and enters
the parish of Dunblane. At Stockbrigs it bends
suddenly towards the south-west, till it reaches
Dunblane, whence it assumes a direction nearly
south, till its junction with the Forth, about 2 miles
above Stirling. Its entire course is about 18 miles.
It is a fine trouting-stream, and is a familiar name to
the lovers of Scottish song. It is the opinion of
Chalmers, that the Alauna of Ptolemy, and of
Richard, was situated on the Allan, about a mile
above its confluence with the Forth.
ALLAN (Bridge of), a beautiful village, on the
banks of the above stream, at the point where the
post-road from Stirling to Callander crosses it ; 3
miles north of Stirling. The beauty and salubrity
of the place, and its proximity to the celebrated
mineral well of Airthrie (which see) have rendered
it a favourite watering-place. Nature assumes a
mild and cheerful aspect here. The banks of the
Allan are clothed with soft green verdure; the cot-
tages are irregularly scattered, as in some villages of
the South, 'amid
Gardens stored with pens and mint and thyme,
And rose and lily for the sabbath-morn,"
bespeaking a high degree of comfort and even of
rural luxury. To the native of England, or of the
Scottish lowlands, returning from the classic regions
of Highland chivalry, fatigued and overpowered with
their monotonous immensity, — their unutterable lone-
liness,— their ferocious precipices, — their sun-scorch-
ed rocks, and roads with never a tree to shade them,
the rich and agreeable diversity of sylvan scenery of
the Bridge-of-Allan and its neighbourhood is inex-
pressibly delightful. He here finds himself trans-
ported to a district of fertile and cultivated beauty, —
a country rich in verdant pastures, sprinkled with
the comfortable habitations of men, and awakening
more of a home-feeling in his bosom than nature in
her free, wild, unadorned loveliness.
ALLANTON, a village in the parish of Edrom,
Berwickshire, situated at the point of confluence of
the Blackadder and Whitadder, on the road from
Ladvkirk to Chirnside, H mile south of Chirnside.
There is a private school in this village ; and a new
bridge is now erecting over the Whitadder.
ALLEN (The), a small stream in Roxburghshire.
It rises on the north-western boundary of the parish
of Melrose, near Allenshaws ; flows southward,
skirting the western base of Colmslie hill, and pass-
ing the ruins of Hillslap, Colmslie, and Langskaw ;
and falls into the Tweed, about a quarter of a mile
above the bridge near Lord Somerville's hunting-
seat called the Pavilion, alter traversing a romantic
ravine called the Fairy dean, or the Nameless dean.
The vale of the Allen is the prototype of the ima-
ginary Glendearg in ' The Monastery;' although, as
Sir Walter himself informs us, the resemblance of
the real and fanciful scene " is far from being minute,
nor did the author aim at identifying them."
ALLOA, a parish in the shire of Clackmannan,
anciently a chapelry to the vicarage of Tullibody.
Its average length, from east to west, is about 4
miles, and its breadth 2. On the south it is bound-
ed by the Forth, whose course is here so winding
that its banks measure above 5^ miles within the
boundaries of the parish. On the north it is bound-
ed by the Devon, which separates it from the parishes
of Alva on the north, and Logie on the west. On
the east it is conterminous with the parishes of
Tillycoultry and Clackmannan. The soil is rich and
fertile along the Devon and the Forth ; betwixt
these rivers, the country rises considerably and is
much less fertile. The parish is intersected by the
road from Clackmannan to Tullibody, and thence
riorthward to Menstrie. On the coast, after passing
the ferry of Craigward, the river becomes narrower ;
and here presents some beautiful islands, or inches,
which, though covered at spring-tides, furnish ex-
cellent pasture for cattle during summer, and are
frequented by quantities of water-fowl. The stormy
petterels, or what the sailors usually call Mother
Cary's chickens, have been occasionally seen here.
Proceeding up the links of the river, we come to the
mansion-house and barony of Tullibody. Behind it,
on the north, there is a wooded bank ; and on either
side, almost at equal distances from the house, are two
prominences, jutting out into the carse, which protect
and shelter the lower grounds. In the front of the
house is the river, with two of the inches formerly
mentioned. Within a mile to the west of the house of
Tullibody, the Devon discharges itself into the Forth ;
and vessels of tolerable burden can load and unload at
a pier built at the mouth of that river ; while sloops
and large boats loaded with grain come up near to the
village of Cambus. On the other side of the Devon
there is a rich flat piece of ground, called West Cam-
bus, formerly belonging to Lord Alva. In the north-
east extremity of the parish is Shaw Park, formerly
the seat of Lord Cathcart, now of Lord Mansfield.
From the drawing-room windows, there is in view a
fine reach of the river, with the towers of Alloa and
Clackmannan, and the castle of Stirling, in the dis~
ALLOA.
25
tance ; even the hill of Tinto, in Clydesdale, and
Ben-Lomond, are distinctly seen. Upon the eastern
extremity of the parish, there is a large artificial piece
of water, made about the beginning: of the 17th cen-
tury for the use of the Alloa coal-works. It is
called Gartmorn dam. When the dam is full, it
covers 160 English acres of ground. There are two
collieries in the barony of Alloa, the oldest of them,
called the Alloa pits, is about H mile distant from
the shore ; the other is the Coll viand, and is about
double that distance. There are various seams in
each colliery ; some of 3, 4, 5, and 9 feet in thickness.
The pits are free of all noxious damps, and have in
general a good roof and pavement, although there
is iron stone over some of the seams. While the
coals of the barony of Alloa were brought to the
shore in small carts by the tenants, the quantity was
uncertain, and often not very considerable. In 1768,
a waggon-way was made to the Alloa pits, which
proved to be so great an advantage that it induced
the proprietor to extend it to the Collyland, in 1771.
Formerly this parish was famous for manufacturing
tobacco ; the merchants of Glasgow having ware-
houses here for that article and other colonial pro-
duce, which they re-exported to the continent ;
but it is long since it lost its reputation for this
manufacture. For a time the camblet branch took
the lead in the manufactures of this parish. " It is
in the neighbourhood of the wool of the Ochils,"
says the Statistical reporter in 1793; "and the
young people were bred to the employment. Early
education in this branch gave them superiority; and
this pre-eminence opened up a variety of markets
both at home and abroad. Great quantities were
sent to England ; which, after being dressed and
finished-off with a peculiar neatness, were returned
and sold in our markets at a very advanced price.''
Till near that period, about 100 looms had been em-
ployed in this manufacture, but it no longer exists.
A good deal of cotton and linen, however, is woven.
The principal heritor of the parish is the earl of
Mar. Next to him, in valuation, is Abercromby of
Tullibody. The valued rent is £7,492 19s. "2d.
Scotch. The real rent is probably about £4,000
Sterling. There are no families of any consequence
now existing, which were originally of this parish.
The branch of the Abercrombies which settled at
Tullibody towards the end of the 16th century, were
descended from the family of Birkenboig in Banff-
shire. The Cathcart family only made Shaw Park
the seat of their residence, on parting with the estate
of Auchincruive which they had possessed for ages in
Ayrshire. Their possessions in this, and the adjoin-
ing parishes, descended to the late Lord Cathcart from
his grandmother Lady Shaw; whose husband had
purchased them, in the beginning of the 18th century,
at a judicial sale, from the Bruces of Clackmannan.
Neither can even the Erskines be said to be original-
ly of this parish, although they got the lands which
they now possess here, in the reign of King Robert
Bruce. They were originally settled in Renfrew-
shire. They succeeded by a female, in 1457, to
the earldom of Mar ; but it was not until the year
1561 that they got possession of it. It was at that
time declared in parliament, that the earldom of Mar
belonged to John, Lord Erskine, who, in the year
1571, was elected regent of Scotland, on the death
of the Earl of Lennox. The title was forfeited by
John, the tenth earl, taking part in the rebellion of
1715 ; but was restored in 1826, in the person of
John Francis, Earl of Mar.
The parish of Alloa is in the presbytery of Stirling,
and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend £299 3s. 2d., with a manse, and a glebe of
the annual value of £63. Unappropriated tcinds
£101 9s. 7d. Church built in 1819, in the Gothic
style, at a cost of £8,000. It stands on a rising
ground, and has a steeple, 200 feet high. Sittings
1,561. The old church at Tullibody is still in good
repair, and there is sermon here on Sunday evenings
during summer. The minister has an assistant who
is nominated by the earl of Mar, and paid partly from
the interest of £800 mortified by Lady Charlotte,
widow of Thomas, Lord Erskine. Population, in
1801,5,214; in 1831, 6,377; beingan increase of 800,
since 1821, which was attributed to the flourishing
state of the trade. Of these 111, labourers were em-
ployed in agriculture, 194 in the collieries, 110 in
distilleries, 55 in breweries, and 25 in brick and tile
works. Houses 976, of which 561, inhabited by
1,128 families, belonged to the town of Alloa.
Assessed property, including that of the town of
Alloa, £11,245. The population of the parish, in
1836, amounted to 6,867, of whom 3,548 belonged
to the establishment, and about 1,800 were inhabi-
tants of the landward part of the parish There are
two United Secession congregations : the first of
these was established in 1 746. Church built in 1792 ;
sittings 722. Stipend £160, with manse and garden.
The second was established in 1765, at which time
the church was built, but it was reseated in 1811.
Sittings 640. Stipend £125, besides taxes, manse,
and garden. — There is an Original Burgher congre-
gation, the minister of which has a stipend of £110;
and an Independent congregation. The other re-
ligious bodies in this parish are an Episcopalian
congregation revived in 1837, and for which a new
chapel was consecrated in May, 1840, by Bishop
Russell ; a New Jerusalem congregation established
in 1831 ; and a Methodist Mission congregation
established in 1S37 — The parochial schoolmaster
has a salary of £34 4s. 4-i-d., with £16 in lieu of
a house and garden, £18 10s. school fees, and
about £20 of other annual emoluments. Average
number of scholars 50. The parochial school is that
of the town of Alloa. There are 11 private schools,
attended by about 600 children Of the old parish
and church of Tullibody, we have the following no-
tice in the first Statistical account of the parish of
Alloa : " There are the remains of an old church in
Tullibody ; the lands of which, with the inches and
fishings, are narrated in a charter by David I., who
founded the abbey of Cambuskenneth, in the year
1147; and are made over to that abbacy, together
with the church of Tullibody, and its chapel of
Alloa. There are no records of the union of these
two churches of Alloa and Tullibody. It seems
probable, that it was about the beginning of the Re-
formation. It appears from John Knox, that, in
the year 1559, when Monsieur d'Oysel commanded
the French troops on the coast of Fife, they were
alarmed with the arrival of the English fleet, and
thought of nothing but a hasty retreat. It was in
the month of January, and at the breaking up of a
great storm. William Kirkcaldy of Grange, atten-
tive to the circumstances in which the French were
caught, took advantage of their situation, march-
ed with great expedition towards Stirling, and cut
the bridge of Tullibody, which is over the Devon, to
prevent their retreat. The French, finding no other
means of escape, took the roof off the church, and
laid it along the bridge where it was cut, and got
safe to Stirling. It is generally believed, that this
church remained in the same dismantled state till
some years ago, that George Abercromby, Esq. of
Tullibody, covered it with a new roof, and erected
within it a tomb for his family. There is still a
large burying-ground around this church ; and on
the north side of it, where there had been formerly
an entry, there is a stone coffin, with a niche for ths
26
ALLOA.
head, and two for the arms, covered with a thick
hollowed lid, like a tureen. The lid is a good deal
broken ; but a curious tradition is preserved of the
coffin, viz. : That a certain young lady of the neigh-
bourhood had declared her affection for the minister,
who, either from his station, or want of inclination,
made no return ; that the lady sickened and died,
but gave orders not to bury her in the ground, but
to put her body in the stone coffin, and place it at
the entry to the church. Thus was the poor vicar
punished ; and the stone retains the name of the
Maiden stone."
Alloa, a burgh of barony, in the above parish,
and a port on the frith of Forth, is about 27^ miles
higher up the frith than Leith, and 1" below Stir-
ling ; in W. long. 3° 46', N. lat. 56° 7'. The name
has been variously written. In the charter granted by
King Robert, in 1315, to Thomas de Erskyne, it is
spelled Alway ; and, in some subsequent ones, Aul-
way, Auleway, and sometimes Alloway. Camden, in
his * Britannia,' seems to think it the Alauna of the
Romans. He says, " Ptolemy places Alauna some-
where about Stirling; and it was either upon Alon,
a little river, that runs here into the Forth, [See
Allan,] or at Alway, a seat of the Erskines." The
windings of the Forth between Stirling and Alloa
are very remarkable ; the distance, from the quay of
Alloa to the quay of Stirling, measured in the cen-
tre of the river, is 17 miles, and to the bridge of
Stirling 19i miles; whereas the distance, by land,
from Alloa to the bridge of Stirling, does not exceed
7 miles, though the turnings in the road are numerous.
The situation of the town is pleasant. Some strata
of rock run a considerable way between the carse
and the high grounds, and break off about the ferry,
a little above the harbour. On part of this rock is
built the tower and the ancient part of the town of
Alloa. The tower marks the ancient residence of
the family of Mar. It was built prior to the year
1315 ; but the entire building, with the exception of
the square tower still standing, was accidentally
burnt to the ground in the year 1800.* The highest
turret is 89 feet ; and the thickness of the walls is 1 1
feet. There is a fine rich prospect from the summit:
no fewer than nine counties can be discerned from
it. The gardens were laid out by John, Earl of
Mar, in 1706, in the old French taste of long aven-
ues and dipt hedges, with statues and ornaments.
The town formerly almost surrounded the tower,
and in rude ages they afforded mutual benefits to
each other. Most of the streets are narrow and irre-
gular ; there is one, however, on a regular plan, in
a line parallel to the gardens of the tower, called
John's street, which is between 76 and 80 feet broad.
A row of lime-trees, on each side, affords an agree-
able shade in summer, and a comfortable shelter in
winter. At the end of this walk is the harbour of
Alloa, where, at neap-tides, the water rises from 14
to 16 feet, and at spring-tides from 22 to 24 ; yet
it has been ascertained that the bottom of Alloa
harbour is nearly on a level with the top of the pier
of Leith. There is a double tide at each flowing
and ebbing. The quay is built of rough hewn stone,
* Among the valuable relics of antiquity which perished in
this unfortunate conflagration was tile only indubitably authen-
tic portrait of Queen Mary, who herself bequeathed it to one of
her personal attendants shortly before her execution. '* The
painter," says Dr Stoddart, who saw this picture a few months
before its destruction, "was no mean artist; and the piece,
though hard, was highly finished. The features were probably
drawn with accuracy ; but what little character they possessed
was unpleasant, and might better have suited the cold and art-
ful Elizabeth, than the tender, animated Mary. It appeared,
however, to have been painted at an age when she had been
long written ' in sour Misfortune's book ;' and bad perhaps
lost that warmth of feeling which was at once the bane of
her happiness, aud the charm of her manners."
and forms a pow, or small creek, where the rivulet
that runs through the north-east end of the town
falls into the river. A little above the harbour there
is a dry dock. Above the dry dock there is a ferry,
sometimes called the Craigward, and sometimes
the King's ferry. The breadth of the river here,
at high tide, is above half-a-mile ; and there are
good piers carried down to low water-mark on each
side, and two large steamers are employed ; but
the rapidity of the tide sometimes renders the pas-
sage tedious. The scheme of building a bridge
across the Forth here has often been talked of. To
the west of the ferry stands a glass-house, for making
bottles, which is thought to be the most conveniently
situated of any in Britain. The extent to which
the manufactory of glass has been carried here, is
amazing. " It is not half-a-century," says the writer
of the first Statistical account of Alloa, " since one
glass-house at Leith, and one at Glasgow, supplied all
Scotland, while the company wrought the one half-
year at the one place, and the next at the other."
In 1825 a joint-stock company was formed for carry-
ing on these works, but it has not proved a very pros-
perous concern. The Glasgow Union bank, and the
Western bank of Scotland, have branches here.
Fairs are held here on the second Wednesday in
February, May, August, and November ; those in
May and November are for cattle. The public
revenue, and matters of trade, are managed by a cus-
tom-house, which was established here a short time
alter the Union. The ships and vessels belonging to
this port, in the end of last century, amounted to
115 ; of a tonnage of 7,241 tons ; and employing 500
men ; the present tonnage belonging to this port is
about 8,000 tons. The greater number of the vessels
are employedin the coast-trade. About 50,000 tons
of coal are annually sent from this port to places with-
in the frith of Forth, and to the east and north of
Scotland ; the foreign trade is also considerable with
the ports of Denmark, Norway, Germany, and Hol-
land. Coals are the great article of exportation :
65,000 tons are annually exported. The importations
generally consist of flax, lintseed, and other articles
from Holland ; and grain, wood of all kinds, and iron.
There are several breweries in the town of Alloa,
which is famed for its excellent strong ale ; and three
extensive distilleries. There are also two woollen
manufactories; and a large iron foundery. The good
of the place, and the administration of justice, are in
the hands of his majesty's justices of the peace, and
the sheriff-depute. There is only one sheriff-depute
for this and the neighbouring county of Stirling. He
appoints substitutes ; one of whom constantly resides
here, and holds the sheriff-court for Clackmannan-
shire. There is a baron-bailie named by Lord Mar.
He regulates the stents and cesses ; he has also juris-
diction in debts not exceeding 40s., but few or no
actions of debt are ever brought before him. The
town obtained a police act in 1803, which was amend-
ed and enlarged in 1822. An admiralty court was
formerly held here, in virtue of a commission from the
Lord vice-admiral of Scotland. The jurisdiction of
this court extended from the bridge of Stirling to
Petty-cur near Kinghorn, on the north side of the
Forth ; and from Stirling bridge to Higgin's Neuck
on the south. The town, as such, has no property or
revenue, and no debts ; but under the police-acts there
is a debt of £5,000. The burgh pays county-burdens,
and rates corresponding to a valuation of £601 Is.
lOd. Scotch ; and, for the privilege of participating
with the royal burghs in foreign trade, £11 6s. ster-
ling as its share of royal burgh cess. Until the
passing of the police act of 1822, Alloa was ill
supplied with water, but it has since been brought
from the river at a considerable expense, and is
ALL
27
ALN
filtered through an artificial bed of sand. Alloa has
frequent communication in the course of each day
with Stirling and Edinburgh by means of the steam-
ers plying betwixt these places. It is 7 miles from
Dollar, 20 from Kinross, and 37 from Perth. Popu-
lation, in 1831, 4,417. Assessed property, £4,662.
ALLOWAY, an ancient parish in the district of
Kyle, in Ayrshire, which was united, towards the
end of the 17th century, with the parish of Ayr,
from which it is divided by Glengaw burn. ' Allo-
way's auld haunted kirk,' — a little roofless ruin, —
long known only as marking the obscure resting-place
of the rustic dead, is now an object of veneration,
and many an enthusiastic pilgrimage, on account of
its having been chosen by Burns as the scene of the
grotesque demon revelry, at once ludicrous and hor-
rible, described with such graphic and tremendous
power in his tale of Tarn o' Shanter; for it would seem
that imagination is not restricted in her flight here by
the actual and real. It is situated on the east bank
of the Doon, a little below the point where the road
from Ayr to Maybole is carried across that river by
the new bridge, and a quarter of a mile from the
cottage on Doon side in which the peasant-bard was
born on the 25th of January, 1759. The poet's
father was interred here at his'own request ; and the
bard himself expressed a wish to be laid in the same
grave, which would have been complied with had not
the citizens of Dumfries claimed the honour of the
guardianship of his ashes. It is now — such is the
interest which the genius of the bard has thrown
over the spot — a crowded and fashionable place of
sepulture. Betwixt the kirk and the ' Auld brig o'
Doune,' by which a road now disused is carried over
' Doon's classic stream,' about 100 yards south-east of
the kirk, and on the summit of the eastern bank, which
here rises boldly from the river, stands a splendid
monument to the poet, designed by Hamilton of
Edinburgh, and consisting of a triangular base, sup-
porting nine Corinthian columns, which are surround-
ed by a cupola terminating in a gilt tripod. It is
upwards of 60 feet in height ; and cost above £2,000.
The whole is enclosed, and ornamented with shrub-
bery ; and the clever figures of Tarn o' Shanter and
Souter Johnny, executed by the ingenious self-taught
sculptor, Tom, are placed in a small building within
the enclosure Alloway kirk is 36i miles distant from
Glasgow; of from Hay bole ; and 2J from Ayr. Mr.
Catbcart of Blairston, one of the lords of session, on his
promotion to the bench, took the title of Lord Alloway
from this place. He died in 1829, and was interred
within the ruins of the kirk. See article, The Doon.
ALMOND (The), a river chiefly belonging to
Edinburghshire. It rises in the muir of Shotts, about
a mile south-east of the kirk of Shotts, near the
Cant hills ; and flows eastward in a line nearly paral-
lel with the post-road from Glasgow to Edinburgh,
by Whitburn, which crosses it at Blackburn, and re-
crosses it again near to Mid-Calder. From a little
bevond Mid-Calder, it flows in a north-easterly di-
rection and forms the boundary betwixt the shires
of Linlithgow and Edinburgh, passing Ammondell,
Bliston, Kirkliston, Carlourie, and Craigiehall, and
falling into the sea at Cramond, where it forms a
small estuary navigable by boats for a few hundred
yards. The Edinburgh and Glasgow Union canal is
carried across this river near Clifton hall, in the
paiish of Kirkliston, by a noble aqueduct. The Edin-
burgh and Glasgow railroad will also be carried across
it by an immense viaduct lower down the river near
Kirkliston, of 48 arches of 50 feet span each, and
about 60 feet high Its principal tributary is the
Broxburn, which is wholly a Linlithgowshire stream,
and flows into it from the west a little above the
town of Kirkliston.
ALMOND (The), or Almon, a river of Perth-
shire, rising in the south-east corner of Killin parish,
on the north side of the range of hills at the head of
Glen Lednock, and flowing eastwards to Newtown
in the parish of Monzie, where it turns south-east,
and skirts the road from Amulrie to Buchandy; at
Dallick it again turns eastwards, and flows in that
direction to Logie- Almond ; beyond which it bends
towards the south-east, and finally discharges itself
into the Tay, a little above the town of Perth, and
nearly opposite to Scone, after a course of about 20
miles. There are numerous remains of Roman and
Caledonian antiquity in Glen Almond, particularly
in the neighbourhood of the bridge of Buchandy, 10
miles from Perth. The glen itself is dreary, desolate,
and wild. In one part of it, where lofty and impend-
ing cfiffs on either hand make a solemn and perpetual
gloom, in the line of the military road from Stirling
to Inverness, is the Clach-na-Ossian, or Stone of
Ossian, supposed to mark the burial-place of the
gifted son of Fingal. About 3 miles from this, in
the Corriviarlich or Glen of Thieves, is a large cave
known by the name of Fian's or Fingal's cave. Sel-
ma in Morven, which is said to have been Fingal's
chief residence, is about 60 miles distant from Glen
Almond. Newte, who travelled through this district
in 1791, says: " I have learned that when Ossian 's
stone was moved, and the coffin containing his sup-
posed remains discovered, it was intended by the
officer commanding the party of soldiers employed on
the military road, to let the bones remain within the
stone sepulchre, in the same position in which they
were found, until General Wade should come and
see them, or his mind be known on the subject.
But the people of the country, for several miles
around, to the number of three or four score of men,
venerating the memory of the bard, rose with one
consent, and carried away the bones, with bagpipes
playing, and other funereal rites, and deposited them
with much solemnity within a circle of large stones,
on the lofty summit of a rock, sequestered, and of
difficult access, where they might never more be dis-
turbed by mortal feet or hands, in the wild recesses
of the western Glen Almon. One Christie, who is
considered as the Cicerone and antiquarian of Glen
Almon, and many other persons yet alive, attest the
truth of this fact, and point out the second sepulchre
of the son of Fingal." Macculloch, ever at war
with ' old poetic feeling,' discredits the whole story
of Ossian's supposed connexion With this place. With
a better faith has Wordsworth thus expressed himself
on this dim tradition : —
" Does then the Bard sleep here indeed ?
Or is it but a groundless creed ?
What matters it ? — I blame them not
Whose fancy in this lonely spot
Was moved ; and in such way expressed
Their notion ut its perfect rest.
A convent, even a hermit's cell,
Would break the silence of this dell :
It is not quiet, is not ease, —
But something deeper far than these :
The separation that is here
Is of the grave, — and of austere
Yet happy feelings of the dead :
And, therefore, was it rightly said
That Ossian, last of all Ins race !
Lies buried in this lonely place."
A secluded spot called the Dronach-haugh, on the
banks of this river, and about half-a-mile west of
Lynedoch, is said to be the burying-place of Bessie
Bell and Mary Gray, famed in pathetic ballad storv.
The road through Glen Almond communicates be-
tween Stirling and Dalnacardoch, by Tay bridge,
passing through Amulrie.
ALNESS, a parish, formerly a vicarage, in ths
shire and synod of Ross, and presbytery of Dingwall
It is bounded on the south by the frith of Cromarty,
ALS
ALT
and on the east by the parish of Rosskeen ; and
stretches 12 miles inland, in a north-west direction,
along the course of the water of Ness and the Alt.
The kirk-town is situated near the coast, at the
junction of the road running along the north side of
the frith of Cromarty — whose undulating waters al-
most bathe the road — with that running north, by
Altdarg, to the frith of Tain. In the higher part of
the parish, surrounded by wild and uncultivated hills,
are two fine fresh water lochs, Loch Moir, and Loch
Glass, both of which are fed by tributaries descend-
ing from Rama-Cruinach, and the former of which
discharges itself by the water of Ness, and the other
by the Alt burn, both running south-east into the
frith of Cromarty. The former stream is crossed by
the bridge of Alness, and the ferry of Alness is near
its mouth. Navar, the seat of Sir Hector Munro, is
a fine building, 2 miles south-west from the bridge
of Alness. Patron of the parish, the Hon. Wm.
Mackenzie. Stipend £230 19s. lid., with a manse,
and a glebe valued at £10. Schoolmaster's salary
£28, with £20 fees, and some other small emoluments.
Scholars 60. There are three private schools at-
tended by about 90 scholars. In July 1834, there
were 200 persons in the parish «ho could not read.
The language generally spoken is an unclassical
dialect of the Gaelic. Population, in 1801, 1,072;
in 1831, 1,437. Houses 309. Assessed property
£4,277. Iron and silver ores have been found in
this parish. Miss Spence, while residing at the
manse of Alness, in the month of July, thus describes
the effect of twilight : " You can imagine nothing-
half so beautiful as the summer-evenings in Scot-
land. The dark curtain of night is scarcely spread in
this northern hemisphere, before
. l Jocund day
Stands tiptoe on the misty mountain's top.'
The firmament retains a glow of light, often bril-
liantly heightened by the aurora borealis — here called
the merry dancers — which has a grand effect ; and,
when the softer shades of evening prevail, and throw
into partial gloom the sleeping landscape, it is even
at midnight, during the months of May, June, and
July, only like our evening-twilight, when every ob-
ject is indistinctly visible. The grandeur of the
mountains, the pellucid tranquillity of the rivers,
and the deep gloom of the dark fir woods, altogether
form a scene no person who has not beheld it can
picture."
ALSH (Loch), a narrow and irregularly-shaped
arm of the sea, stretching between the south-east
point of Skye and the mainland ; and penetrating in-
land into the district of Kintail in Ross-shire by two
arms, — the one running 4 miles north-north-east under
the name of Loch Loung ; and the other one, called
Loch Duich, stretching about 6 miles south-east.
The entrance to Loch Alsh, from the west, is by the
Kyle Haken, or Kyle Akin ; that from the south, by
the Kyle Rhee, or Kyle Rich. The latter strait is
considerably narrower than the former, and its scenery
is very beautiful. Macculloch thus describes it :
" Profound and shadowy ravines, rude, broken, and
diversified by rocks, mark the passage of waters that
are scarcely seen till they have reached the shore ;
their banks being sprinkled with wood, which, dense
below, gradually diminishes in ascending, till a single
tree is at last seen perched high aloft, the last out-
post of the rude forest. These declivities often ter-
minate in the sea by precipices, in which the oak and
the birch are seen starting from every crevice ;
sometimes nearly trailing their leaves and branches
in the water which they overhang, and almost de-
ceiving us into the feeling that we are navigating a
fresh-water lake, — a deception maintained by the
manner in which the land closes in on all sides."
As the strait narrows, the sides become more rockv
and precipitous, seeming to oppose an impenetrable
barrier to the navigator, while the tide rushes through
it with great rapidity. But, the kyle once cleared, all
tide is at an end for a time, and we instantaneously
find ourselves in the calm wide basin of Loch Alsh.
The Kyle Haken is remarkable for its irregular tides.
At its mouth there is an excellent ferry. A good
road leads to this point from Broadford in the isle of
Skye ; and there is a road leading from the other
side of the ferry, northwards, to the ferry of Strome
on Loch Carron, a distance of 14 miles ; and another
branching off from it, and running eastwards to the
Dornie ferry on Loch Loung. Kyle Haken or Moil
castle is a small ruined fortalice on the shore ot
Skye, at the eastern end of the kyle. Balmacarra,
the seat of the late Sir Hugh Innes, is a tine man-
sion on the northern shore of Loch Alsh. On the
small rocky islet of Donan, at the point of confluence
of Loch Loung and Loch Duich, stands Ellandonan
castle, once the manor-place of the ' high chiefs of
Kintail.' It is a magnificent ivy-clad ruin, backed
by a noble range of hills. This castle was originally
conferred on Colin Fitzgerald, son to the earl of
Desmond, in 1266, by Alexander III. In 1331 it
was the scene of a severe act of retributive justice
by Randolph, Earl of Murray, then warden of Scot-
land, who executed fifty delinquents here, and placed
their heads on the walls of the castle. In 1537,
Donald, fifth baron-of Slate, lost his life in an attack
on Ellandonan castle, then belonging to John Mac-
kenzie, ninth baron of Kintail, and was buried by
his followers on the lands of Ardelve, on the western
side of Loch Loung. William, fifth earl of Seaforth,
having joined the Stuart cause in 1715, his estate
and honours were forfeited to the Crown, and his
castle burnt. The attack on Ellandonan castle, by
the baron of Slate, is the subject of a ballad by Sir
Walter Scott's friend, Colin Mackenzie, Esq. of
Portmore, published in the ' Scottish Minstrelsy,'
[Vol. IV. pp. 351—361, last edition.] In the intro-
duction to this ballad it is erroneously stated that
Haco, king of Norway, after his defeat at Largs in
1263, was overtaken in the narrow passage which
divides the island of Skye from the coasts of Inver-
ness and Ross, and slain, along with many of his
followers, in attempting his escape through the west-
ern kyle ; and that these straits bear to this day
appellations commemorating these events; the one
being called Kyle Rhee, or the King's Kyle, and
the other Kyle Haken. It is matter of familiar
history, that Haco's fleet, in its flight from the
Clyde, succeeded in douiiling Cape Wrath, and
reached Orkney on the 29th of October ; and that
here, Haco, overcome by the feeling of his disgrace,
and the incessant fatigues of his unfortunate campaign,
fell sick, and died on the 15th of December.*
ALTAVIG, or Altbheig, the southernmost of a
group of flat islets — to which it usually gives name —
on the north-east coast of Skye, between the point
of Aird and Ru-na-braddan. Martin says there is a
little old chapel on it dedicated to St Turos ; and
that herrings are sometimes so plentiful around a
small rock at the north end of the isle, that " the
fisher-boats are sometimes as it were entangled
among the shoals of them 1"
* Macculloch, who notices this historical error, asserts that
the proper name of the Bouthern kyle is Kyle Rich, that is,
'the swift strait;' while the name of the western kyle is fre-
quently written Kyle Akin. The orthography, however, of
names throughout this district appears very uncertain. There
we have Loch Long, Lock Loung, and Loch Ling; Ellan-
donan, and Ellandonnan, and in the journal of a recent tra-
veller, Lord Teigumouth, Ennan-dowan ; GienShiel,and Glen
Shetil i Stent, and Slate. Native authorities afford us little aid
here, each Gaelic writer having an urthogniphy of his own-
ALT
29
ALV
ALTMORE (The), a small stream of Banffshire,
rising betwixt the parishes of Ruthven and Desk-
ford, receiving several small tributaries from Altmore
ridge in the former parish, flowing southwards be-
twixt the parishes of Keith and Grange, and falling
into the Isla, about li mile east of the town of Keith,
alter a rapid course of 6 miles.
ALTYRE, formerly a distinct parish belonging to
the parsonage of Dallas, but annexed to the parish
of Rafford, in the shire of Elgin, by act of parliament
in 1661. The walls of the old church remain. The
Cummings of Logie, and most of the ancient resi-
denters, still continue to bury here. The soil is
generally thin, but sharp and productive ; the extent
of hill and pasturage is very great ; and the peat-
mosses are inexhaustible. See Rafford.
ALVA, anciently Alvath, or Alveth, a parish
and barony, politically in the county of Stirling, al-
though disjoined from it: being surrounded by the
shire of Clackmannan on the east, south, and west ;
while on the north, it is bounded by Blackford parish
in the county of Perth. It is in length, from east to
west, somewhat more than 2:V miles ; and from south
to north, 4 miles. The river Devon gently glides
along the southern boundary of the parish, dividing it
from the parishes of Alloa and Clackmannan. See
article, The Devon. The parish of Logie bounds
it on the west ; that of Tillicoultry on the east.
This parish extends over a considerable portion of
the Ochills ; and over part of the valley — here com-
monly called ' the hill-foot' — between these hills and
the Devon. The mean breadth, from the banks of
the river to the rise of the Ochills, is about two-
thirds of a mile. That portion of the Ochills which
belongs to this parish, when seen from the south,
at the distance of a mile or two, appears to be
one continued range, presenting little variation in.
height ; but the range slopes towards the south,
and is intersected by deep and narrow glens, through
most of which flow streams which discharge them-
selves into the Devon, and by these, the fore-
ground of this part of the Ochills is divided into
three separate hills, distinguished by the names of
Wood-hill, Middle-hill, and West-hill of Alva. On
the brow of this last hill is a very high perpendicular
rock, called Craig-Leith, long remarkable as the resi-
dence of that species of hawk which is used in hunt-
ing. The house of Alva stands on an eminence pro-
jecting from the base of Wood-hill, near the east end
of the parish. The height of this part of the hill is
about 220 feet above the Devon, which runs in the
valley belo\y ; but immediately behind the bouse, the
hill rises to the height of 1, 400 feet, makingthe whole
height 1,620 feet. The range continues to rise gra-
dually for about 2 miles farther north, until it reaches
in Ben-Cloch, the highest point of the Alva range, and
the summit of the Ochills; being, according to Mr
Udney, about 2,420 feet above the level of the Devon.
The view from the top of Ben-Cloch is extensive
and beautiful. The village of Alva is situated near
the foot of the West-hill. A small rivulet, issuing
irom the glen which separates the West from the
Middle hill, runs along the east side of the village.
In the first Statistical report on this parish, it is
stated that woollen manufactures had been carried
on in the village of Alva for more than a century.
They consisted chiefly of Scots blankets and serges.
The former were made from 9d.tols. the Scots yard ;
and the latter from lOd. to 15d., and a few from 16d.
to 18d. per yard. " It is more than probable," the re-
porter adds, " that this species of manufacture flourish-
ed a great many years ago in the neighbouring village
of Tillicoultry ; as an evidence of this, it is at this day
known among the shopkeepers of the Lawn-market
of Edinburgh, by the name of Tillicoultry serges.
The number of looms constantly employed at present
in this village is 67. The length of each web may
be reckoned at SO yards, and taking the average
value at lOd. or lid. per yard, the gross produce will
amount to from £7,000 to ,£8,000 sterling, annually.
The manufacturers make use chiefly of English wool
in their serges and blankets, and this partly short,
and partly combed wool. That which is produced
from the sheep that pasture on the Ochills is com-
monly manufactured by the people of the country
for their own private use. These serges are sold
not only in Edinburgh, but likewise in Stirling,
Glasgow, Greenock, Perth, and Dundee. The finest
kinds of serges are sometimes dressed and dyed by
the traders in Stirling, and sold as coarse shalloons.
A considerable quantity of the coarser sizes has of
late years been purchased by saddlers as a necessary
article in their business." We have inserted the
notice of this manufacture, though it no longer exists
here, as helping the reader to trace the progress of
Scottish manufactures. A rich vein of silver ore is
said to have been wrought in this parish early in the
beginning of the 17th century. An unsuccessful
attempt was made to renew the workings in the year
1759. Population, in 1801, 787; in 1831, 1,300.
Assessed property £2,445. Inhabited houses 218.
— The parish of Alva was, before the Reformation,
in the diocese of Dunkeld. From the chartulary of
Cambuskennetb it appears that the church of Alva
was a mensal church, as it is called, belonging to
that abbacy ; and that the monks of Cambuskennetb.
performed duty here, from the want of a sufficient
fund for the maintenance of a regular clergyman.
By the same chartulary, it appears that Alexander,
styled Dominus de Striveling, Miles, in 1276, made
a grant of one acre of land to the church of St Ser-
vanus de Alveth, describing it particularly as lying
near the well of St Servanus, " et inter ipsum fon-
tem et ecclesiam." This well is still within the
limits of the minister's glebe ; and although its con-
secrated name has been long forgotten, it continues
to send forth a copious stream of the purest and
sweetest water. Until the year 1632, the parish of
Alva appears to have been united with the neigh-
bouring one of Tillicoultry ; the minister of Alva
officiating in both. The fabric of the present church
was built in the year 1631, by Alexander Bruce of
Alva, who procured a disjunction from the parish of
Tillicoultry. It is in the presbytery of Stirling, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, Johnstone of
Alva. Stipend £157 5s. 4d., with a manse, and a glebe
of the annual value of £27. Schoolmaster's salary
£29 18s. 10d., with £28 school-fees. Average num-
ber of scholars 55. There are two private schools
in the parish, attended by about 120 pupils.
ALVAH, a parish in the county of Banff, extend-
ing in length about 6 miles, and at its greatest breadth
to nearly the same measurement, but in other places
to only 2 miles. On the north-west and north it is
bounded by the parish of Banff; on the north-east
and east by the parishes of King-Edward and Gamery ;
on the south-east by Turriff; on the south by For-
glen; and on the south-west by Marnoch. The
Doveron enters the parish about a mile below For-
glen house, which is on its northern bank, and, after
winding through a fertile valley, leaves it at a point
about 2 miles from the sea. It here abounds with sal-
mon, trout, and eel ; and is frequented by wild ducks,
widgeons, teals, and herons. About half-a-mile be-
low the church, the river is contracted by two steep
and rugged precipices, commonly denominated the
Craigs of Ah ah, between which it is about 50 feet
in depth. The scenery, naturally bold and pictur-
esque, has been greatly embellished here by its noble
proprietor, the Earl of Fife, who has thrown a mag-
ALV
30
ALV
tiifieent arch over the river, which forms an easy
communication between the opposite parts of his
lordship's extensive park. The haughs along the
banks of the river are subject to inundations, es-
pecially in the neighbourhood of the Craigs of Alvah,
which check the rapidity of the stream, and throw
the water backward. As we recede from the Doveron
towards the west, the country becomes more hilly
and barren. In this quarter one of the most con-
spicuous hills is the Hill of Alvah, which rises from
the bed of the river to a great height, and serves as a
landmark to mariners on their approaching the coast.
At the Bog of Mountblairie are the remains of an
old castle, situated in a swamp now overgrown with
alder, and said to have been built by an earl of
liuchan ; and on an eminence above it, are the ruins
of a chapel, adjoining to which is a well, famed of
old for its sovereign charms, but now fallen into dis-
repute. " Within these few years," says the Statis-
tical reporter in 1792, "there was an iron laddie; and
many still alive remember to have seen the impend-
ing boughs adorned with rags of linen and woollen
garments, and the cistern enriched with farthings and
boddles, the offerings and testimonies of grateful
votaries who came from afar to this fountain of
health. At the foot of the hill of Alvah, towards
the north, is another spring, which passes by the
name of Corn's or Colm's well, in honour, probably,
of the renowned saint of Icolmkil." Population, in
1801, 1,057; in 1831, 1,278. Assessed property
.£3,695. Houses 246. — This parish is in the pres-
bytery of Turriff, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron,
the Earl of Fife. Minister's stipend £178 15s. 5d.,
with a manse, and a glebe of the yearly value of
£25. Unappropriated teinds £221 16s. 6d. School-
master's salary £30, with about £10 school-fees.
Average number of scholars 40.
ALVES, a parish in the shire of Elgin ; bounded
on the north by the Moray frith, along which it ex-
tends about one mile ; on the east by the parishes of
Duffus and New Spynie ; on the south by Elgin,
from which it is separated by Pluseardine hill ; and
on the west by Kinloss and Rafford parishes. Its
outline is very irregular ; and its surface varied with
hill and dale. The soil is in general a deep tat loam
incumbent on clay. There are six land-owners; the
total rental is about £6,000. At the south-eastern
extremity of the parish is a conical hill called the
Knock of Alves, which yields a good free-stone for
building. The only relic of feudal times is the
castle of Asleisk, on the Earl of File's property.
There is no river, or even considerable stream, in
this parish ; but it is conjectured by some that the
river Findhorn may, in remote ages, have winded
among the dales of Alves, and flowed through the lake
of Spynie into the sea. Population, in 1801, 1,049;
in 1831, 945. Houses 196 — This parish is in the
presbytery of Elgin, and synod of Moray. Patron, the
Earl of Moray. Minister's stipend £215 Is. 8d., with
a manse and glebe. Unappropriated teinds £130 13s.
Id. The church was built in 1769 ; sittings 590.
Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4id., with about £25
of various fees. The parish-school has a small en-
dowment. Average number of scholars 45. There
were three small private schools in this parish in
1835. The turnpike road between Elgin and Forres
passes through the parish.
ALV1E,* in some old charters called Alloway, a
* The writer of the first Statistical account of this parish
conjectures that the name Alvie is probably derived from tile
Gaelic Alleibh, i. e. ' Cold island,' the place being formed into
a peninsula by a lake; and, though a delightful situation in
summer, extremely cold in winter. " All the names of places
here," the same writer adds, "are Gaelic, and descriptive of
their local situation." This etymology is, however, pronounced
not in the least prububle by the writer of the second Statistical
parish in the district of Inverness-shire called Bade-
noch. Its form is very irregular. The principal in-
habited division lies along the northern side of the
river Spey, here running from south-west to north-
east ; and is from north-east to south-west about 10
miles long, and from 1 to 2 broad. It is bounded
by the parish of Kingussie on the south-west: Moy
on the north-west ; and Duthel on the north-east.
On the southern side of the river, Alvie parish ex-
tends, along the course of the Feshie, about 10 miles
by 3 ; and is bounded on the east by Rothiemurchus ;
on the south by Blair ; and on the west by Kin-
gussie. Its total extent from north to south is up-
wards of 20 miles ; and it has an area of above 90
square miles. The mountains are in general extreme-
ly barren, covered with heath, and frequently rocky ;
those to the south of the Spey, belonging to the
Grampian chain, are much higher than those to the
north ; some points here rising to 4,500 feet above
the sea-level. The interjacent valleys afford a plen-
tiful and rich pasture in summer, but are for the
most part inaccessible in winter. The lower or
arable part of the parish, intersected by the Spey
for the space of 2 miles, consists of a light, stony
soil, lying on sandy gravel, and producing heavy
crops of corn in a wet season, but exceedingly parch-
ed in dry weather. There are some extensive planta-
tions of firs and larches; and natural coppices of birch,
alder, and mountain-ash. The first Statistical report-
er represented that the inferior tenants in this district
were very poor, owing to their small holdings. " They
pay," he says, " from £2 to £6 rent, which may
be from 5s. to 10s. the acre arable, affording a scanty
subsistence to a family. They have no idea of trade
or manufactures, and consequently no desire to leave
their native land ; they prefer living on the smallest
pendicle of land, as tenants, to the best service, and
are extremely averse to the military. They procure
their little necessaries from the market-to ivns, by
the sale of small parcels of wood." This state of
things, with regard to the holders of small pendicles,
seems little changed to the better; but the larger
tenants have adopted a vigorous and judicious system
of farming with the appropriate results. The aver-
age rent is from 15s. to 20s. per Scotch acre. The
nearest market is Inverness, which is 35 miles dis-
tant from the northern extremity of the parish.
The last Statistical reporter states that a village
has been founded, called Lynchat, on the Belleville
property, near the south-west extremity of the parish.
The valued rent of the parish is £1,394 Scots ; the
real rent is above £2,000 sterling. The river Spey
here abounds with salmon, trout, and pike. The
Feshie affords trout and salmon. It rises on the
northern side of the Grampian range, in the southern
extremity of the parish, and flows at first north-east,
till it approaches the road from Castleton of Brae-
mar, where it bends north-west, and then north,
pursuing the course of the narrow valley through
which also the only road intersecting the parish is
led, and falling into the Spey, a little above that en-
largement of the river called Loch Insch, and near
Invereshie. The only detached loch in the parish is
that of Alvie. It is a beautiful sheet of water, about
a mile long, and half-a-mile broad. It has a com-
munication with the Spey, but it is not supposed
that its trout visit the Spey ; pike are also found in it
of from 1 16. to 7 lt>. weight. An elegant mansion was
built here, named Belleville, by the late James Mac
pherson, Esq., translator of the poems attributed to
Ossian, who was a native of Badenoch, and died here
account, published in 183G, who says, that "the name is in Gaelic
pronounced EttlaOhi, sounding bh like v in English; a word
compounded of ealabh, swans, and i, an island, which :t>rrectly
translated signifies ' the Island of Swans.'
ALY
31
ALY
on the 17th of February, 1796, but was buried, at his
own desire, in Westminster abbey. At no great
distance from Loch Alvie is the burial-place of the
chief of the Macphersons. The finest mansion in
the parish is Kinrara house, long celebrated in
fashionable and literary circles as being the favourite
seat of the accomplished duchess of Gordon. The
Spey, flowing under a long wall of mountain-crags and
fir-plantations, embraces in its sweep a verdant plain
which is close shut in on the opposite side by the hill
of Tor-Alvie; in this spot, on a knoll commanding the
small plain, and itself sheltered by the loftier Tor, is
the far-famed cottage of the duchess. Dr Macculloeh
thus describes the scenery of Kinrara: "A succession
of continuous birch-forest, covering its rocky hill and
its lower grounds, intermixed with open glades,
irregular clumps, and scattered trees, produces a
scene at once alpine and dressed, — combining the dis-
cordant characters of wild mountain-landscape and
of ornamental park-scenery. To this it adds an air
of perpetual spring, and a feeling of comfort and of
seclusion, which can no where be seen in such per-
fection : while the range of scenery is, at the same
time, such as is only found in the most extended do-
mains. If the home-grounds are thus full of beau-
ties, not less varied and beautiful is the prospect
around : the Spey, here a quick and clear stream,
being ornamented by trees in every possible com-
bination, and the banks beyond, rising into irregular,
rocky, and wooded hills, every where rich with an
endless profusion of objects, and, as they gradually
ascend, displaying the dark sweeping forests of fir
that skirt the bases of the farther mountains, which
terminate the view by their bold outlines on the
sky." The swan, a variety of fishing-ducks or duck-
ers, and the woodcock, live here in winter, but retire
in summer. Population, in 1801, 1,05S; in 1831,
1,092, of whom about two-thirds were engaged in
agriculture. — This parish is in the presbytery of
Abernethy, and synod of Moray. Patron, the duke
of Richmond. Minister's stipend .£158 4s. 6d., with
manse and glebe. Church built in 1798, and repair-
ed in 1831 ; sittings 500. There is a government-
church at Insch, which is within 4 miles of the parish-
church, and with which a small quoad sacra parish,
originally part of the old parish of Insch, was connect-
ed in 1828. See Insch. Schoolmaster's salary £29
18s. 9d. ; with £18 school-fees, and £4 10s. emolu-
ments. Average number of pupils 70. There are
two private schools in the parish attended by about
70 children.
ALYTH, a parish on the northern side of Strath-
more, in the counties of Perth and Forfar; but
chiefly in the former. It is about 15 miles long, and
3 broad, at an average ; and stretches from south to
north towards the Grampian mountains. It is bound-
ed by Kirkmichael and Glen-Isla parishes on the
north ; by Glen-Isla, Lentrathen, Airly, and a de-
tached portion of Rutbven on the east ; by the Isla
on the south, which separates it from the parishes of
Meigle and Cupar-Angus ; and by detached portions
of the parishes of Bendochy, Blairgowrie, Kepet,
and Rattray, on the west. It is divided into two
districts, Loyal and Barry, by the hills of Alyth.
The southern district, which lies in the strath, is
about 4 miles long, and 3 broad. The lower part
along the Isla is extremely fertile, producing ex-
cellent crops of barley, oats, and wheat ; but the
frequent inundations of the Isla — which sometimes
rises suddenly in harvest, to a great height — is often
attended with great disappointment and loss to the
husbandman. The village of Alyth is situated in
this district. It is 15 miles north of Dundee; and
12 west of Forfar. Population, in 1774, 555 ; in
1836, 1,700. Its name is of Gaelic extraction, and
is expressive of its situation, being built on a fiat
near the foot of a hill. It was made a burgh of
barony by charter from James III. The situation of
the village is healthy it is well -supplied with water ;
a small stream, wlncu rises near Drumdevich in
the northern part of the parish, runs through the
lower part of the town, and thence north-east to the
Isla. There is a weekly market in the village on
Tuesdays ; and several for black cattle and sheep are
annually held here. The chief articles manufactured
in this district, towards the end of last century, were
yarn and brown linens, of which a great quantity was
spun and wove in the town of Alyth, and the district
around it. The quantity of cloth stamped from the
first November 1787, to the 1st November 1791, at
an average, was 258,639 yards yearly, and the me-
dium price £6,939 10s. 3^Vd. This branch of manu-
facture still exists, but has not thriven so much as
might have been anticipated. On the northern side
of the hill of Alyth there is an open country of con-
siderable extent, and capable of great improvement.
Beyond the hill of Banff — which is 2 miles north-
west of the village of Alyth — is the forest of Alyth,
a large tract of heathy ground, of more than 6,000
acres, which formerly belonged to four proprietors
who possessed it in common, but it is now divided
among them. The forest, which is skirted on the
west with arable ground, affords pasture for a con-
siderable number of sheep and black cattle ; it
abounds in game, especially muirfowl, and is much
frequented in the shooting-season. At the north-
western extremity of the parish there is a beautiful
little district surrounded with hills, and intersected
by the Ericht, which in summer has a delightful ap-
pearance. That part of it connected with this
parish, called the Blacklunnans, lies in the county of
Angus. Mount Blair, the most considerable hill in
this parish, is a very conspicuous point of land. The
base is not less than five miles in circumference ; but
its exact altitude is not ascertained. It affords good
pasture for a great number of sheep, and abounds in
lime-stone. About 3 miles south-west of Mount
Blair, on the west side of the forest of Alyth, is the
King's-seat, rising to the height of 1,179 feet above
the level of the sea. The situation is romantic ; the
water of Ericht runs at its foot on the west, and the
side of the hill for a considerable way up is covered
with a beautiful natural wood. Barry-hill, to the
north-east of Alyth, is about a mile in circumference
at the base, and 676 feet high. On the summit there
is an area about 60 yards long and 24 broad, sur-
rounded with a mound of earth, 7 feet high, and 10
broad at the top. On the west and north borders of
this area are seen the marks of something like huts
built of dry stones, which may have served to shelter
the besieged from the weapons of the assailants, and
the inclemency of the air. The northern and western
sides of the hill are steep and almost inaccessible ;
on the south and east, where the declivity is more
gentle, there is a broad and deep fosse, over which,
at the southern extremity, is a narrow bridge built
of unpolished stones and vitrified. It evidently ap-
pears to have been designed for a temporary retreat
in time of war, and is well-adapted for that purpose.
The traditional account is that Barry-hill was the
place where Queen Guinevra, the wife of the British
king, Arthur, who was taken prisoner in a battle be-
tween the forces of that monarch and those of the
Scots and Picts, was confined by her captors. The
area of the parish is 34,160 acres ; valued rent £8,233
17s. 4d. Scotch. Population, in 1801,2,536; in 1831,
2,888, chiefly agricultural labourers and weavers ; and
of whom about 2,383 belong to the establishment —
This parish is in the presbytery of Meigle, and synod
of Angus and Mearns. The church is an old Gothic
AMI
32
ANC
structure ; it has been frequently repaired, and is in
tolerable good order. In times of Episcopacy it was
a prebendary belonging to the Bishop of Dunkeld.
Minister's stipend £229 19s. 6d., with a manse, and
a glebe of the annual value of £14. Unappropriated
Crown teinds £134 Is. lid. Patron, the Crown.
Schoolmaster's salary £34, with about £20 of fees
and £24 of emoluments. Pupils about 100. There
are seven private schools, with an average attendance
at each of 45 scholars. The schoolmaster has like-
wise the interest of £40 sterling, bequeathed by the
late Rev. Mr Robertson for the education of a few
children of his name. The north-western district of
the parish is connected with Persie chapel in the
parish of Bendochy An Episcopalian congregation
has existed here since the Revolution. — A United
Secession congregation was established in 1781 ; and
an Original Seceder congregation in 180S.
AMISFIELD, a seat of the Earl of Wemyss, in
the parish and shire of Haddington, on the banks of
the Tyne, about 1 mile east of Haddington. It is a
handsome edifice of red-coloured sandstone, situated
in the midst of an extensive park, and fronting to-
wards the river and the great post-road from Dun-
bar to Haddington. It contains some fine paintings.
It was built by the famous Colonel Charteris, who
named it from the ancient seat of his family in Niths-
dale, the subject of the next article. His only
daughter conveyed it by marriage to the noble family
of Wemvss.
AMISFIELD CASTLE, anciently Emsfield, an
old, tall, square, stubborn-looking fortalice, 5 miles
north-east of Dumfries, a little to the left of the
post-road to Edinburgh, between the two head-
streams of the Lochar. This was long the family-
seat of the Anglo-Norman family of Charteris, or
Chartres, who migrated northwards during the reign
of David I., but seem to have first settled at
Kinfauns in Perthshire. The apartments are placed
one above another, and communicate by a narrow
stair. There is a curiously carved door on one of
them, of which Mr Chambers, in his ' Picture of
Scotland,' [Vol. I. 228, edition 1824,] has given an
amusing account; and which door alone, he avers,
" makes Amisfield castle worth going twenty miles
to see."
AMULRIE, or Amulree, a small village of
Perthshire, on the road from Crieff to Inverness,
Hi miles distant from the former town, and 10^
fro'm Aberfeldy, the next stage. The district of
Amulrie is in the parish of Dull, but is annexed
quoad sacra to the mission of Amulrie. There are
a church and manse here.
ANCRUM, a parish situated nearly in the centre
of the county of Roxburgh ; bounded on the north
by the parishes of St Boswell and Maxtown ; on the
east by those of Maxtown, Roxburgh, Crailing, and
Jedburgh; on the south by Jedburgh, Bedrule, and
Minto ; and on the west by Minto, Lilliesleaf, and
Bowden. The river Teviot, along which it stretches
5 miles, divides it from the parishes of Jedburgh and
Bedrule. The extreme length of this district is not
less than 6 miles; its breadth does not exceed 4.
Its area is about 8,400 acres. The name of the
village — Alncromb, or Alnecrumb, as it was anciently
written — signifies the crook of the Aln ; and is exact-
ly descriptive of its situation on a rising ground on
the south side of the Ale, where that stream fetches
a cvurve before falling into the Teviot. The parish of
Long Newton, forming the north-west and north part
of the parish, was annexed to that of Ancrum in
1684. The Ale rises on the western skirts of Ro-
berton parish, and flowing north-east, passes through
the loch of that name in the county of Selkirk, to
Drydean, where it bends east to Sinton mill ; it
then intersects Lilliesleaf parish from south-west to
north- east, and after fetching ' many a loop and link'
on the borders of Ancrum parish, flows through it to
the village of Ancrum, where — as already noticed—
it fetches another circuit, and falls into the Teviot,
at the distance of half-a-mile below the village, and
a quarter of a mile above Ancrum bridge on the
great road to Jedburgh. This river abounds with
excellent trout ; and its banks are in many places
finely wooded with tall trees, — in others ' o'erhung
with birk or odorous broom,' or frowning with pre-
cipitous cliffs, — presenting a varied succession of ro-
mantic scenery. The soil, in the lower grounds of
the parish on Teviot side, is rich, consisting of a
mixture of sand and clay, and, in some places, of a
loam. On the higher ground, or ridge which per-
vades the parish from east to west, and, on the de-
clivities exposed to the north, the surface is heath on
a bottom of cold clay ; but the flat ground, on both
the Ancrum and Long Newton side of the Ale, is a
naturally rich though stiff clay. The Statistical
report on this parish, published in 1837, states that
7,496 acres are under cultivation, and above 800 in
wood. There was formerly a greater extent of
wood in this parish ; but none of long-standing re-
mains, except upon the banks of the Ale, near the
village of Ancrum, and in the environs of Ancrum-
house. The Duke of Roxburgh, the Earl of Minto,
Sir William Scott, Bart., Sir George Douglas, Mr
Ogilvie of Chesters, and Mr Richardson of Kirk-
lands, are considerable heritors. The valued rent of
the united parishes of Ancrum and Long Newton
amounts to £ 12,332 2s. Scotch ; the real rent was
stated, in 1796, to exceed £4,000 sterling ; and is
now nearly £9,000. Population, in 1801, 1,222; in
1831, 1,454; of whom about 530 belonged to the
village of Ancrum. Houses 245. Assessed property
£9,707. There are several freestone quarries in this
parish. The stone is of two colours, red and white;
it is easily wrought and of a durable quality. The
situation of Ancrum-house, where the village of
Over- Ancrum formerly stood, is picturesque and at-
tractive. Spots of verdant lawn, craggy knolls,
scattered trees, and, on the verge of the river, steep
banks, in some places naked and of broken surface,
and in others clothed with wood, here exhibit a fine
assemblage of romantic objects. The trees surround-
ing Ancrum-house are the oldest and most beautiful
in the district: they consist of oaks, beech, elms,
planes, and limes. The prospect from the house
down the vale of Teviot, of the junction of the Ale
and Teviot, and towards the lofty mountains of
Cheviot, is extensive and striking. Chesters house
is a fine building, picturesquely situated farther up the
Teviot ; and Kirkiands, on the Ale, is deservedly ad-
mired both for its architecture and situation. — The
parish of Ancrum is in the presbytery of Jedburgh, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Sir William Scott
is patron of the united parishes, and titular of An-
crum. Minister's stipend £223 16s. 6d., with a
manse, and a glebe of the annual value of £30. Un-
appropriated teinds £738 16s. 6d. Church built in
1762 ; sittings 520. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s.
4-id., with £29 fees. Average number of pupils 85.
There are three private schools attended by about
130 children. One of these is endowed with £11 2s.
2id. annually, having been the parish-school of Long
Newton.
The Roman road from York to the frith of Forth,
after passing through the north-east part of the parish
of Jedburgh, cuts a small part of the north corner of
Ancrum ; and upon the top and declivity of the hill
to the eastward, on the border of Maxtown parish,
vestiges of a Roman camp may still be traced —
There is a ridge in this parish, over which the road
ANC
33
AND
to Edinburgh passes, about a quarter or balf-a-mile
west of the line of the Roman road, called Lylliard's,
or Lilyard's edge, from a lady of that name, who,
on an invasion of the English under Sir Ralph Evre,
Sir Brian Latoun, in 1544, during the distracted re-
gency of the Earl of Arran, fought with masculine
bravery, and fell here under many wounds. The old
people point out her monument, now broken and de-
faced. It is said to have borne an inscription — re-
cast from the well-known lines on a Chevy-Chase
hero — running thus :
" Fair maiden Lylliard lies under this stane ;
Little was her stature, but great was her fame ;
Upon the English louns she laid mony thumps, Qstumps."
And, when her legs were cutted ofl, 6he fuught upon her
Sir Walter Scott, in a note on the ballad of ' The Eve
of St John,' gives the following account of the battle
of Ancrummoor. "In 1545, [1544?] Lord E vers and
Latoun again entered Scotland, with an army con-
sisting of 3,000 mercenaries, 1,500 English borderers,
and 700 assured Scottish-men, chiefly Armstrongs,
Turnbulls, and other broken clans. In this second
incursion, the English generals even exceeded their
former cruelty. Evers burned the tower of Broom-
house, with its lady, (a noble and aged woman, says
Lesley,) and her whole family. The English pene-
trated as far as Melrose, which they had destroye'd
last year, and which they now again pillaged. As
they returned towards Jedburgh, they were followed
by Angus, at the head of 1,000 horse, who was
shortly after joined by the famous Norman Lesley,
with a body of Fife-men. The English, being pro-
bably unwilling to cross the Teviot, while the Scots
hung upon their rear, halted upon Ancrum moor,
above the village of that name ; and the Scottish
general was deliberating whether to advance or re-
tire, when Sir Walter Scott of Buccleuch came up
at full speed, with a small but chosen body of his
retainers, the rest of whom were near at hand. By
the advice of this experienced warrior — to whose
conduct Pitscottie and Buchanan ascribe the success
of the engagement — Angus withdrew from the height
which he occupied, and drew up his forces behind it,
upon a piece of low flat ground, called Panier-heugh,
or Paniel-heugh. The spare horses being sent to an
eminence in their rear, appeared to the English to be
the main body of the Scots, in the act of flight.
Under this persuasion, Evers and Latoun hurried
precipitately forward, and, having ascended the hill,
which their foes had abandoned, were no less dis-
mayed than astonished, to find the phalanx of Scot-
tish spearmen drawn up, in firm array, upon the flat
ground below. The Scots in their turn became the
assailants. A heron, roused from the marshes by the
tumult, soared away betwixt the encountering ar-
mies: ' O !' exclaimed Angus, 'that I had here my
white goss-hawk, that we might all yoke at once !'
[Godscroft."] — The English, breathless and fatigued,
having the setting sun and wind full in their faces,
were unable to withstand the resolute and desperate
charge of the Scottish lances. No sooner had they
begun to waver, than their own allies, the assured
Borderers, who had been waiting the event, threw
aside their red crosses, and, joining their countrymen,
made a most merciless slaughter among the English
fugitives, the pursuers calling upon each other to
'remember Broomhouse!' — [Lesley, p. 478.]" The
English had 800 men slain, and 1,000 made prisoners,
in this battle. Their leaders, Evre and Latoun,
were also left on the field,
" where Ancrum moor
Ran red with English blood ;
Where the Douglas true, and the bold Buccleuch,
'Gainst keen Lord Evers stood."
The most venerable fragment of antiquity in the
parish is the JVIaltan walls, on a rising ground at the
bottom of the village of Ancrum, close to the side of
the Ale, where it turns its course towards the south-
east. " These walls," says the Statistical reporter
in 1796, " were strongly built of stone and lime, in
the figure of a parallelogram ; and, ascending on one
side from the plain adjacent to the river, were con-
siderably higher than the summit of the hill which
they inclose ; but are now levelled with its surface,
andj small part of them remains. Vaults or sub-
terraneous arches have been discovered in the neigh-
bouring ground, and underneath the area inclosed by
the building. Human bones are still found by per-
sons ploughing or digging in the plain at the side of
the river, which is an evidence of its having been
formerly occupied as burying-ground. The name,
which these walls still retain, gives the colour of
authenticity to a tradition generally received in this
part of the country, that the building, and surround-
ing fields had been vested in the knights of Malta,
or Knights Hospitallers of St John of Jerusalem,
who, upon account of their splendid achievements
and meritorious services in the holy wars, acquired
property even in the most remote kingdoms of
Christendom. — On the banks of the Ale, below the
house of Ancrum, there were several caves or re-
cesses, and not less than fifteen may be still pointed
out. In some of them there are also vestiges of
chimneys or fire-places, and holes for the passage of
smoke from the back part of the cave to the outside
of the bank. From these appearances, it is natural
to conclude, that, though these caves — so frequently
found on the banks of rivers in border-counties — -were
originally intended for places of concealment and
shelter, yet, after the happy event which put an end
to interior violence and depredation, they were pro-
bably assumed by the poorer classes for places of
habitation, and improved by such farther accommo-
dations as the rude or simple taste of the times re-
quired."— In the centre of the village.green is an
ancient cross.
ANDERSTON. See Glasgow.
ST ANDREWS, a parish on the east coast ot
Fifeshire ; bounded on the north by the Eden river,
and its estuary, which separates it from Leuchars
parish ; on the north-east by the German ocean ; on
the south-east by the Kenly burn, which separates
it from Kingsbarn and Denino parishes ; and on the
south and west by the parishes of Denino, Cameron,
Ceres, and Kembuck. Its greatest length is about
10^ miles from north-west to south-east; its average
breadth does not exceed 1J mile;' though in the
north-western part it exceeds 4 miles, measuring
from St Andrews links to the western boundary of
the parish at Chalderhills. Its area somewhat ex-
ceeds 17 square miles, and may be stated at 11,000
acres. The ascent of the surface is from the north
to the south and east. From the Eden to the city
of St Andrews, the coast presents a flat firm sandy
beach, skirted by the links so famous in the annais
of golfing. From the city to the south-eastern ex-
tremity of the parish, the shore outwards from high
water-mark is lined with rough and ragged shelving
rocks covered with sea-weed, while the coast in-
wards is very rocky and bold, in some places pre-
senting perpendicular rocks of the height of 30 or 40
feet, yet the plough here comes to the very brink,
having a sufficiency of soil. The boundaries of the
parish to the south and west terminate in moors
covered with short heath and furze. In common
with all the eastern part of the island, this district is
well-acquainted with the cold damp easterly winds,
or haars of April and May; the south-west wind,
however, is the prevailing wind. There are no con-
siderable lakes or rivers within the parish. In the
C
34
ST ANDREWS.
embouchure of the Eden — up which the tide flows 4
miles — is a flat sandy bay abounding with large floun-
ders, cockles, and mussels. In the course of the river,
for about a mile from its mouth, salmon are caught,
but in no great quantity. Towards the east end
of the parish are some small creeks among the rocks,
where vessels of inferior size occasionally deliver lime
and coals. St Andrews bay is proverbially dangerous
to navigators. Vessels driven into it by an easterly
wind, being unable to weather the opposite points
of Fifeness and the Redhead, are compelled to run
into the mouth of the Tay, which presents an intri-
cate navigation amid its sand-banks. On the lands of
Brownhills and Kinkell — which form the first rising
ground eastward from St Andrews harbour — there
are a few insulated rocks, from 20 to 40 feet high,
and of nearly equal breadth ; one about halS-a-mile
from the harbour, is called the Maiden stone ; and
about half-a-mile farther, is the Rock and Spindle.
The chief land-marks in this parish are the steeples
of St Andrews, and a small obelisk of stones on the
highest part of the farm of Bahymont, about 2 miles
south-east of the town. The principal hills are the
East and West Bahymonts, which rise to the alti-
tude of about 360 feet above sea-level ; and the hill
of Clatto which has an elevation of 548 feet. On
Strathkinness moor, about 3 miles west from the
town, and on Nydie hill— which is a more elevated
and westerly portion of the same moor — are quarries
of excellent freestone, of which most of the houses
in St Andrews are built. In Denhead moor, in the
south-west corner of the parish, coal exists, but it is
not wrought. About a mile east from the harbour,
there is a natural cave, called Kinkell cave. The
mouth is to the north; the direction of the cave is
southwards, and it penetrates about 80 feet; the
shelving of the freestone roof presents a triangular
cross section, and there is a continual dropping from
the roof and sides which are covered with hanging
plants. There are no very old or extensive plantations
of wood in this parish. The number of acres under
cultivation is about 10,000; the average rent per
acre did not exceed 2os. in 1794, and does not ex-
ceed 30s. now. The highways through this parish
are such only as diverge from St Andrews as a centre,
viz. to Crail south-east; south to Anstruther; south-
west to Ely; west to Cupar; and north-west to
Dundee. On the road to Dundee, over the Eden, is a
bridge of six arches, called the Gair or Guard-bridge,
originally built at the expense of Bishop Wardlaw,
who died in 1444, and who established a family of
the name of Wan as hereditary keepers of this bridge,
for which they have a perpetual fee of about 10 acres
of land adjoining to it. The language of the parish
of St Andrews is the common dialect of the Scotch
Lowlands. The Fifans, it has been alleged, use a
drawling pronunciation, but they have very few pro-
vincial w ords ; and if they are at all worthy of so
high a character as the first Statistical reporter on
St Andrews bestows on the people of his charge, they
must be such a very amiable set of people that one
can easily overlook in them so trivial a fault as
that of a drawling speech. " The people of this
parish,'' says the reporter, "are sober, temperate,
and industrious ; more addicted to the arts of tran-
quil life than to military service; kind and hospi-
table to strangers; benevolent and friendly to one
another ; very ready to all the offices and duties
of society; not very forward in making new dis-
coveries, but willing to improve by the experi-
ments elsewhere made; peaceable in their demea-
nour; candid and liberal in their judgments; respect-
ful to their superiors, without servility; compas-
sionate to the distressed, and charitable to the poor;
contented and thankful in their situation ; attached
to their religion, without bigotry or enthusiasm ;
regular in their attendance on Christian institutions,
and pious without ostentation; loyal to the king;
obedient to the laws ; enemies to sedition, faction,
or tumult, and deeply sensible of the blessings they
enjoy as British subjects. In no corner of the king-
dom," adds the worthy reporter — and who will gain-
say him if such be the character of one's neighbours
here — " is it more comfortable to live, as neighbours,
magistrates, or ministers." Population, in 1801,
4,203; in 1831, 5,621; of whom 3,767 were inhabit-
ants of the city of St Andrews. Houses 863. As-
sessed property £21,723. The population consists
chiefly of shopkeepers, handicraftsmen, and labourers.
The parish of St Andrews is in the presbytery of
St Andrews and synod of Fife. It is a collegiate
charge ; the Crown appointing the first minister ;
and the magistrates of St Andrews the second.
Stipend of the first minister £439 9s. 4d., with a
glebe of the annual value of £23; of the second
£161 18s. 2d., with a glebe of the value of £16 5s.
2d. ; both ministers have an additional allowance for
a manse. Unappropriated teinds £791 9s. lOd. The
parish-church, within the city of St Andrews, was
erected in the 12th century, and thoroughly repaired
in 1798. Sittings 2,128— There is a chapel at
Strathkinness where public worship is performed
every Sabbath — An Episcopalian congregation has
existed here since Episcopacy was the established
religion of Scotland. The chapel was erected in
1825; cost £1,400; sittings 170. Minister's stipend
£90.— The United Secession congregation was estab-
lished in 1748; chapel built in 1826; cost £940;
sittings 440. Stipend £100, with manse and gar-
den.— An Original Burgher congregation was estab-
lished at Strathkinness in 1823. Stipend £96, with
manse and garden — The Independent chapel was
built in 1807 ; cost £700 ; sittings 336. Stipend £70.
The parish of St Leonard consists of a few
districts in different quarters of the town and sub-
urbs of St Andrews, and three farms in the coun-
try, about 3 miles distant from the town, all origi-
nally belonging to the priory, afterwards to the college
of St Leonard, and now to the United college of
St Salvator and St Leonard. Its total extent is
820 acres ; and population 482, of whom 62 reside in
the country. It is probable that the erection of the
parish is of the same date with the foundation of
the college whose name it bears. Although the
principal of St Leonards did not always officiate as
minister of the parish — and in the instance of Mr
George Buchanan, was not even a clergyman — it is
certain, that for some time before the Revolution,
the two offices were held by the same person ; and
ever since that period the principal of the college
has been a clergyman, andithe minister of this parish.
The chapel of St Salvator's college is used as the
parish-church; the old parish-church having been
long in ruins; sittings 312. Minister's stipend £152
Is. 9d. ; with a glebe of the annual value of £25.
There is no parochial school. Population of this
parish, as distinct from that of St Andrews, in 1801,
363 ; in 1831, 482. Houses 77.
The city of St Andrews is situated in N. lat.
56° 19' 33", and W. long. 2° 50' ; 39 miles north-
north-east of Edinburgh, upon a rocky ridge pro-
jecting into the sea, at the bottom of the bay to
which it gives name. This ridge, washed by the
waves on the west and north, and terminating
towards the sea in an abrupt and high precipice,
gives the city, to a traveller approaching from the
west, an appearance of elevation and grandeur. Ap-
proaching along the road from Cupar and Dundee,
by the Gair-bridge, we have a fine prospect of the
city at the distance of some miles. On the left the
ST ANDREWS.
35
eye ranges over the vast sweep of the bay of St
Andrews, and the coast of Angus as far as the Red-
head ; on the right rises the richly wooded bank of
Strathtyrum ; while the venerably majestic towers
and numerous spires of St Andrews, shooting into
the air, over the horizon line, directly before us,
combine to form a finely varied and imposing scene,
especially at that fair hour
" When morning runs along the sea
In a gold path."
The city commands a fine and open prospect of the
German ocean towards the north-east; and the view
on the opposite quarter is bounded by a curvilineal
range of hills running from north to south-east, and
cultivated to their summits. The road from Crail
. — or the coast-road, as it is called — conducts us to
a view greatly admired by some, and indeed per-
haps preferable to any other of St Andrews, for the
scenery is here softened and improved by gardens
and fruit-trees, amid which the houses lie half-con-
cealed, seeming to retire as it were into the shade :
we have, at the same time, a fine prospect of the
harbour, and of the ruins of the monastery and the
cathedral. Some, however, prefer the view of St
Andrews from the side of Mount-Melvil, or the
south-west prospect of it, on the road from Anstru-
ther, to either of the two we have just described.
From this point the city appears still more closely
embosomed in gardens and plantations, above which
numerous spires and pinnacles shoot up, conferring
on it "a kind of metropolitan look." The city is
a mile in circuit, and contains three principal streets,
. — South-street, Market-street, and North-street, —
which are lighted with gas, and intersected by
others of less dimensions. These principal streets
do not lie exactly parallel to one another, but
diverge in a westerly direction from the cathedral,
like spokes from the centre of a wheel. There was
formerly another street, called Swallow-street, which
lay farther to the north, now converted into a pub-
lic walk, and known by the name of the Scores.
The castle stood on the north of Swallow-street,
300 yards distant from the cathedral. St Salvator's,
called also the Old or the United college, is on the
northern side of the town, between North-street and
the Scores; St Mary's, or the New college, directly
opposite to it, on the south side of South-street.
The buildings belonging formerly to the third
college, or St Leonard's, are towards the east
near the ruins of the monastery. On the site of
the Blackfriars monastery a splendid range of build-
ings has been erected for the Madras college, to be
afterwards noticed. The population of the city, in
1801, was 3,263; in 1831, 4,462. St Andrews" was
created a royal borough in 1140; and a city or arch-
bishop's see in 1471. As a royal borough, it is now
classed with Cupar, Easter and Wester Anstruther,
Crail, Kilrenny, and Pittenweem, in returning one
member. The parliamentary constituency, in 1837,
was 250; the municipal, 180. The total parliament-
ary constituency of the St Andrews district of burghs,
in 1837, was 707- The first member elected under
the Reform act was Andrew Johnston, Esq. of Renny-
hill, who continued to represent the burghs till 1837,
when Edward Ellice, Esq., a well-known reformer,
was elected by 290 votes ; his opponent, T. Macgill,
Esq., polling 261 votes. The city of St Andrews
is governed by a provost, dean of guild, four bailies,
and 23 councillors. The revenue of the borough, in
1832, was £1,030, of which £384 arose from rents,
and £210 from feu-duties. The expenditure, in the
same year, was £1,021. The amount of debt then
due by the town was £4,662. In 1837-8, the re-
venue was £1,466. The magistrates and council
have the patronage of the second charge in St An-
drews parish-church ; they were also patrons of the
town-schools, but have transferred this right to Bell's
trustees. The number of burgesses, in 1832, was
213, of whom 25 were non-resident. In 1832, there
were 313 houses of £10 and upwards rental in the
burgh. Assessed taxes £824. St Andrews has no
manufactures worth notice with the exception of that
of golf-balls. The bank of Scotland has a branch
here. There is a fair for lintseed and general busi-
ness held here on the 2d Thursday in April ; and
for cattle and hiring on the 1st of August, and 30th
of November; all O. S.
St Andrews was in the meridian of its glory in
the 15th and beginning of the 16th centuries. Mer-
chant-vessels were then accustomed to resort to it,
not only from the opposite ports of Holland, Flan-
ders, and of France, but from all the other trading-
kingdoms of Europe. At the great annual fair,
called the Senzie market — which was* held with-
in the priory in the month of April — no fewer than
from 200 to 300 vessels were generally in the port. In
1656, Tucker describes this town as "a pretty neat
thing, which hath formerly been bigger, and, although
sufficiently humbled in the time of the intestine
troubles, continues still proud in the ruines of her
former magnificence, and in being yett a seate for
the muses." At this period only one vessel of 20
tons burden belonged to the port ; and at present it
possesses only two small vessels. It appears by
the tax-roll of the royal burghs, that in 1556 the
land-tax of St Andrews amounted to £410; but in
1695 only to £72. In 1805, it was fixed at £27 6s.,
at which it still remains. After the Reformation,
this city fell gradually into decay ; and the descrip-
tion given of it by Dr Johnson — in 1773, at the
period perhaps of its greatest depression — is still, we
are sorry to say, but too applicable, although of late
years a considerable number of new and elegant houses
have been erected. " The city of St Andrews," says
the learned doctor, " when it had lost its archiepis-
copal pre-eminence, gradually decayed : one of its
streets is now lost, and in those that remain, there is
the silence and solitude of inactive indigence and
gloomy depopulation." A recent learned and noble
traveller, however, assures us that "no one can pre-
tend to have seen Scotland, in the sense in which
the expression is commonly used by travellers, who
has not visited St Andrews. Yet few, of the my-
riads of tourists who flock to that country, have
enjoyed this gratification. The picturesque situa-
tion of the city; the extent, diversity, and grandeur
of the remains of its ancient secular and ecclesiasti-
cal establishments; the importance of the events
which they attest; the celebrity which it has de-
rived from the records of historians, and the descrip-
tions of topographical writers, in vain allure them
from the more beaten tracks. So rarely are they
seen within the deserted streets of St Andrews, that
no coach runs directly to it; and the only public
accommodation provided for them on their arrival,
is a miserable little inn, or rather pot-house. [This
was written, be it remembered, in 1829.] This
want of curiosity or of good taste is easily explained,
— St Andrews affords no thoroughfare: its inhabi-
tants do not attract strangers by their industry,
wealth, or gaiety : and the monuments of its former
greatness, from which it derives its importance, have
not borrowed adventitious and imaginary interest
from the illusions of genius. Whilst a tale of gra-
mary, or love, will draw thousands to Melrose or
Loch Katrine, few are willing to read the history of
Popish ascendency, or Protestant reformation, amidst
the ruins of St Andrews. Yet what expectation
can be more unfounded, than that of realizing more
completely a fictitious transaction, by repairing to
36
ST ANDREWS.
the supposed scene of its occurrence? A visit, even
by moonlight, to Melrose, instead of bringing more
fully before us the vision which the very mention
of this storied pile suggests to the fancy, dissolves
it at once, by subjecting it to the touchstone of
truth ; while the scene of real events, whether do-
mestic, heroic, or sacred, awakens all the emotions
which belong to it. ' That man is little to be en-
vied whose patriotism would not gain force on the
plain of Marathon, or whose piety would not grow
warmer amid the ruins of Iona."'* — [See Lord Teign-
mouth's Sketches, Vol. II. pp. 130, 131.]
The original name of this city was Mucross, i. e.
' the Promontory of boars ;' from mvc, a sow or boar,
and ross, a point, promontory, or peninsula. ■(• But
St Regulus, or St Rule, a monk of Patras, a city in
Achaia, where the bones of St Andrew were kept,
having been warned in a vision to take some of these
precious relics, and carry them with him to a distant
region in the west, obeyed the command, and about the
year 365 landed in this neighbourhood, and having
been successful in converting the Picts, Hengustus,
or Hungus, the king of the country, changed the
name of Mucross into that of Kilrymont, i. e.
Cella regis in monte, or ' the Chapel of the King
on the Mount ;' having given to Regulus and his
companions a piece of ground adjoining the harbour,
on which he also erected a chapel and tower in hon-
our of the monk, and bearing his name. The exem-
plary virtues of Regulus and his companions — legen-
dary history goes on to say — drew a great resort of
people to his chapel ; and the name of the city was
soon changed from Kilrymont to Kilrule, i. e. 'the
Cell or Church of Regulus,' which name is still re-
tained in Gaelic. Dr Jamieson thinks it highly pro-
bable that such a gift was made by Hungus. " For,"
says he, "it appears indisputable, that, about the
year 825, he founded a church at Kilrymont ; which
henceforth received the name of the apostle to whom
it was dedicated. Sibbald views this gift of the
Pictish king as meant for the benefit of the Culdees.
But we have more direct evidence. For, as Mar-
tine speaks of ' Baronia Caledaiorum infra Cursum
Apri,' or ' the Barony of the Culdees below the
Boar's raik,' the extracts bear, that this was given
by King Hungus to St Rule. Yet we learn, from
the same source of information, that this tract was
afterwards taken from the Culdees ; and given, first
to the bishop, and then to the prior and canons re-
gular of St Andrews : ' so that,' as Sir James Dal-
rymple observes, ' this place appeareth to have been
one of the ancient seats of the Culdees.' In the
tenth century, such was their celebrity at St An-
drews, that King Constantine III. took up his resi-
* His lordship seems here labouring a point to little purpose.
No one will feel disposed to deny that St Andrews is a most
interesting and venerable locality, or envy the man who can
find little pleasure in musing on its past glories and magnifi-
cence,— the story of centuries dead and gone, — though there
may be little in its external scenery, with the exception of its
crumbling ruins, to take a strong hold of the imagination or
the feelings. But why attempt to decry the charms of other
Bcenery, founded as well on poetical associations as on the fine
features of Nature,— scenes redolent not merely of grandeur
and beauty, but — thanks to our unmatched minstrel — of deep
tliought and rich imagination ? It seems but an ungrateful re-
turn to one who has, in so many instances, rendered every
portion of a glorious landscape doubly glorious and eloquent, —
who has added to the highest poetry of the material world, a
something higher still, in
11 the gleam,
The light that never dies on sea or land,"
to insinuate that with respect to the scenery of his matchless
poems and romances the real truth and the ideal do not easily
blend together in our conceptions.
t The village of Boarhills, in what was originally called the
Boarchasc, a tract of country stretching from b'ifeness to the
neighbourhood of St Andrews, retains the original name of the
district, as translated into the dialect of later inhabitants; and
the arniB of the city are a boar leaning against a tree.
dence among them, and A. 943, died a member of
their society ; or, as Wyntown says, abbot of their
monastery :
Nyne hundyr wyntyr and audit yhere,
Quhen gayne all Donaldis dayis were,
Heddis sowne cald Constantine
Kyng wes thretty yhere : and syne
Kyng he sessyd for to be,
And in Sanct Andrewys a Kylde.
And there he lyvyd yheris fyve,
And Abbot mad, endyd his lyve.
Cronykti, B. vi. c. x.
It is also believed that an Irish king attached him-
self to this religious body. For we learn from the
Ulster Annals, that A. 1033, Hugh Mac Flavertai
O'Nell, king of Ailech, and heir of Ireland, ' post
penitentiam mort. in St Andrewes eccl.' " [History of
the Culdees, p. 148.] The walls of St Rule's chapel,
and a tower, still remain : though these are not pro-
bably the relics of the original building. The tower
is a square of 20 feet on the side, and about 108 feet
high, without any spire ; the outside, from top to bot-
tom, is of thin ashler work ; the arches of the doors
and windows are semicircular. The tower was cover-
ed with a flat roof and parapet, at the expense of the
Exchequer, towards the end of last century ; and a
turnpike stair reared within leading to the top, from
which there is a fine prospect. The name, Kilrule,
continued in use till the 9th century, when the Picts
were finally vanquished by the Scots, who changed
the name to St Andrews.
The cathedral of St Andrews is supposed to have
been founded in the year 1159; but a period of 160
years elapsed before its completion, in 1318. It was
demolished in June, 1559, by a mob, inflamed by a
sermon of John Knox's, wherein " he did intreet
(treat of) theejectioune of the byers and the sellers
furthe of the temple of Jerusalem, as it is written in
the evangelists Matthew and Johne; and so applied
the corruptioune that was then to the con uptioune in
the papistrie; and Christ's fact to the devote (duty) ot
thoisto quhomeGodgiveth the power and zeill there-
to, that as weill the magistrates, the proveist and
baillies, as the commonalty, did agree to remove all
monuments of idolatry : quhilk also they did with ex-
peditioune." Such indeed was their expedition, that
this noble edifice, the labour of ages, was demolished
in a single day. % " While entire, the cathedral church,"
says Mr Grierson, " had five pinnacles or towers, and
a great steeple. Of the towers, two stood on the
west gable, two on the east, and one on the south
end of the transept or cross-church. Two of these
towers, with the great steeple over the centre of the
church, have long since disappeared. Three of the
towers yet remain, the two on the east gable, which
is still entire, and one of those on the west. The
other, it is said, fell about two hundred years ago,
immediately after a crowd of people had passed from
under it in returning from an interment. Large
fragments of it still remain, which show the goodness
of the cement with which the stones have been
joined together. The towers are each 100 feet
high from the ground to the summit, and they rose
considerably above the roof of the church. The
two eastern ones are joined by an arch or pend,
$ Tennant, the author of ' Anster Fair,' in a clever though
less-pleasing and less-successful poem, entitled 'Papistry
Storm 'd,1 [lidin. 1827, 12mo.,] has sung in quaintest dialect, and
with all the facetious strength, fluency, and vivacity, which he
attributes to the vernacular idiom of Scotland:
" the steir, etrabush, and strife,
Whan, bickerin' frae the towns o' Fife,
Great bangs of bodies, thick aud rife,
Gaed to Sanct Androis town,
And, wi' John Calvin i' their heads,
And hammers i' their hands and spades,
Enrag'd at idols, ma-s, and beads,
Dang the Cathedral down.
ST ANDREWS.
37
forming the great east light of the church, till they
rise above the height of the roof; and it is evident
that the western ones have been in the same state
when entire. From each of these towers, to within
the church, opened three several doors into so many
galleries along the walls ; which galleries were sup-
ported by pillars, 16 in number on each side, and at
the distance of 16 feet from the wall. All that now
remains of this once magnificent pile, is the eastern
jable entire, as has been said, half of the western,
the south side-wall from the western gable till it
join the transept, a length of 200 feet, and the west
wall of the transept itself on the south side of the
church. The rest is entirely gone, ' every man,' as
Dr Johnson expresses it, ' ha\ing carried aWay the
stones who imagined he had need of them.' From
the length of time which elapsed during its erection,
and the varying tastes of the ages in which it was
built, we might be led to conclude beforehand that
there would be found in it different styles of archi-
tecture, and the conjecture is confirmed by the ap-
pearance of what remains. For on the east gable
there is to be seen the Gothic mixed \\ ith the Saxon ;
and in the part of the south side-wall which still
subsists, we have ten windows, six of which, name-
ly, those toward the west, are Gothic, and the other
four Saxon. The Barons of exchequer, in 1826,
caused the interior of the cathedral to be cleared
out, and various repairs to lie executed with the view
of preserving this venerable relic of long-past cen-
turies, which
" But for that care, ere this had past away."
The Crown lands are now the property of the uni-
versity, having been very recently purchased by that
body from the Crown for .£2,600, with the view of
forming a botanical garden and observatory, and pre-
serving the venerable ruins from further dilapidation.
In the vicinity of the cathedral stood the priory, or
Augustine monastery, founded by Bishop Robert
in 1144. John Hepburn, prior of St Andrews, about
the year 1516, surrounded the monastery on the
north, east, and south sides with a magnificent wall,
which is still pretty entire, and is nearly half-a-mile
Jn extent. It is about 22 feet high, and 4 feet thick ;
and incloses a space of about 18 acres. But of all
the various buildings which once occupied this sacred
inclosure, only a Jew vestiges now remain. Near
the present grammar-school stood a monastery,
which Grose, in his Antiquities, assigns to the Do-
minicans ; but Keith informs us that it was a con-
vent of Observantines. A Dominican convent, we
know, was founded in St Andrews by Bishop Wishart
in 1274, and an Observantine estaolishment by Bi-
shop Kennedy, 150 years later. " The only part
which now remains of the buildings of the convent
beside the grammar-school," says Mr Grierson, writ-
ing in 1807, "is a fragment, with an arched roof in
the Gothic style, extremely elegant in appearance,
and supposed to have been the chapel. It strikes
one as decidedly the most beautiful specimen of Go-
thic architecture now to be seen at St Andrews."
This fragment is now enclosed within the grounds of
Madras college, and its preservation will, we doubt
not, be an object of solicitude to the trustees of that
noble institution. Besides St Rule's, and the cathe-
dral, Martine, in his ' Reliquae Divi Andrea?,' written
in 1685, mentions, as having been in some sort dis-
cernible in his time, fourteen different buildings :
among which were the prior's house, commonly called
the Old inn, which stood to the south-east of the
cathedral ; the cloisters, which lay west from the
prior's house, separated from it only by the dormitory.
In this quadrangle was held the great fair called the
Senzie market, which began in the 2d week after
Easter, and continued for 15 days. The refectory
or dining-room, was in length 108 feet, and in breadth
28. It is now a garden ; in Martine's time it was
a bowling-green. Fordun relates, that Edward I.,
in 1304, stripped all the lead off this building to sup-
ply his battering-machines in a projected siege of
Stirling. The New inn, the latest built of all the
edifices in the monastery before the Reformation, is
said to have been erected on the following occasion.
James V. having married the Princess Magdalene,
the only and lovely daughter of Francis I. of France,
in 1537, the young queen, being of a delicate constitu-
tion, was advised by her physicians to reside here for
the benefit of her health. The New inn was, in con-
sequence, built for the purpose of accommodating her
majesty; and was erected, we are told, with such
rapidity, that it was begun and finished in a single
month! The queen, however, never enjoyed it, for
she died at Holyroodhouse, on the 7th of July, six
weeks after her arrival in Scotland. The New inn
was the residence of the archbishops after the annexa-
tion of the priory to the archbishopric in 1635. — The
Kirkheugh, or St Mary's church, no longer exists.
Martine says, that in his time the manse of the pro-
vost of Kirkheugh was still standing, "on a little
height above the shore of St Andrews, now in no
good repair ;" and that " a little north from it were
to be seen the ruins of old buildings, which were the
chapel itself." Upon this his editor, in the year 1797,
has the following note : " Very little now remains of
these buildings, viz., a single gable with a door in it.
But whether these are the ruins of the manse or of
other houses cannot now be known."
The castle of St Andrews was founded towards
the conclusion of the 12th century, by Roger, bishop
of the diocese, and son of Robert, third earl of
Leicester. It stood upon a point of land projecting
towards the sea, on the north side of the town, about
250 yards to the north-west of the cathedral. It
was enlarged and repaired betwixt the years 1318
and 1328. In 1336, Edward III. placed a garrison
in it to command the town and neighbouring country.
On his return into England, however, a few months
after, the regent, Sir Andrew Moray of Bothwell, in
conjunction with the earls of March and Fife, besieg-
ed this stronghold, reduced it in the space of three
weeks, and entirely demolished it a short time after.
Bishop Trail repaired the castle towards the end of
the 14th century, and died in it in 1401. James III.
was born in the castle, as appears by the golden char-
ter of the see granted to Bishop Kennedy; and it
continued to be the episcopal palace till the murder
of Beaton in 1545. Detached from the town, and
bounded on two sides by the sea, the ruins of the
castle now serve as a useful land-mark to mariners.
The sea washes the rock on which it is built on the
north and east sides, and has in some places under-
mined its walls, a considerable part of which fell in
consequence of this in December 1801. Martine says,
that in his time there were people living in St An-
drews who remembered to have seen bowls played
on the flat ground to the east and north of the castle ;
the ocean, therefore, must have made great encroach-
ments on this part of the coast. It has recently
swept away the curious cave known as Lady Buch-
an's cave, on the shore between the harbour and the
castle. Every winter huge masses of the promon
tory are broken down and carried away by the tide.
The University of St. Andrews is the oldest in
Scotland, having been founded in 1411 by Henry
Wardlaw, bishop of the diocese, who obtained the
sanction of papal coulirmation from Benedict XIII.,
in 1413. The success of the original institution led
to the foundation of St. Salvator's college, about the
year 1455, by James Kennedy, Bishop of St- An-
36
ST ANDREWS.
drews ; St Leonard's college, founded by Prior Hep-
burn, 1512 ; and St Mary's, founded by Archbishop
Beaton, in 1537. In each of these colleges were
lecturers in theology, as well as in philosophy, lan-
guages, &c. In the reign of James VI. 1579, under
the direction of George Buchanan, these establish-
ments were new modelled, and St Mary's college
appropriated to the exclusive study of theology; it
is therefore distinguished by the name of the Divinity
college, or the New college. In 1621, an act was
passed re-establishing, in all their articles, the first
foundations of the colleges, but still assigning to St
Mary's the department of theology. In 1747, on a
petition from the masters of St Salvator's and St
Leonard's, these two colleges were united into one
society, under the designation of the United college.
" The statute ordained, among other things less wor-
thy special notice, that the United college shall consist
of one principal, one professor of Greek ; three pro-
fessors of philosophy ; whereof one is to be professor
of logic, rhetoric, and metaphysics, another to be
professor of ethics and pneumatics, and the third to
be professor of natural and experimental philosophy;
one professor of humanity ; one professor of civil
history, in place of the suppressed humanity pro-
fessorship of St Salvator's college; one professor of
mathematics, and a professor of medicine ; 16 bur-
sars on the original foundations ; together with such
as have been since or may hereafter be added, and
the necessary servants : that the whole funds already
or to be appropriated for the payment of he salaries
of the principal and professors (all specially fixed by
the act), shall be joined into one common stock, and
be levied and received for their use, by such factor
or steward as they shall from time to time appoint:
that the patronage of the principalship and of the
professorship of mathematics shall belong to the
Crown ; of the professorship of civil history to the
Earl of Cassillis ; of the professorship of humanity
to Scott of Scotstarvet; of the professorship of
medicine to the university, to be exercised as
formerly ; of the remanent professorships to the
principal and professors of the United college, to
be determined by comparative trial, in such form
and manner as was usually observed in former times ;
of the bursaries to the same body, to be bestowed as
before the Union ; the whole being a well-timed and
judicious piece of legislation, which by raising the
condition of the collegiate body, secured to it in some
degree superior qualifications, and which, though be-
stowing, after all, only a very moderate endowment
on the chairs of the seminary, has in fact filled them,
since the date of it, with talents and attainments of
the most respectable order, and the highest useful-
ness." The university commissioners, whose report
we are now quoting, add : " It is pleasant to be en-
abled to state, that the members of the Senatus Aca-
demicus themselves have, on every occasion on which
they could act with effect, manifested the utmost
zeal in the cause of literature and science, and for
the efficency and fame of their university. In 1811,
their medical chair, which it would appear had never
become effective, engaged their attention ; and in
consequence of authority vested in them by its
munificent founder, "the Duke of Chandos, to form
such regulations and statutes as might tend to the
promotion of its object, they resolved that it should
be a chair for instruction in the principles of medi-
cine, anatomy, and chemistry, and that the holder of
it should be an efficient professor, teaching two very
important branches of medical science, chemistry and
chemical pharmacy. They made at the same time
certain arrangements for creating a fund, to meet the
expense of a chemical apparatus and class experi-
ments-; and ever since that time, the prescribed
branches have been taught every session with great
ability, and to a respectable class. About 1818--19,
a class for political economy was opened by the pro-
fessor of moral philosophy, and the lectures on the
subject have been so attended of late, as to show
that the science is growing at St Andrews, as else-
where, into estimation and request. In the session
of 1825-6, the United college originated a lecture-
ship for natural history, and to promote the perma-
nency and success of the measure, they voted 25
guineas from their revenue, as an annual salary to
the lecturer. Some bequests of specimens have
given a beginning to a museum, and the subjects of
the science, having excited great interest among the
students, there is a fair prospect that the lectureship
will, in the hands of able and zealous lecturers, be-
come a popular and useful institution, and thus exalt
the reputation, and augment the attendance of the
seminary to which it belongs." The revenue of the
university, as distinct from the two colleges, does not
exceed £300, and is chiefly appropriated to the support
of the university library. The income of the United
college, in 1774, was £1,727 ; in 1823, £3,020. The
salary of the principal, in 1824, was £342 ; of each
of the four foundation-professors, £254 ; of each of
the professors of humanity, civil history, and medi-
cine, £140; of mathematics £245. The number of
bursaries belonging to the United college is 55. of
which 7 are between £20 and £25 each, being the
highest in value. The annual amount of grants from
the Crown is £297. The United college holds the
patronage of Denino, Kemback, Kilmeny, and Cults,
and alternately with another patron, Forte viot.
The number of students attending the United col-
lege averages about 200. The buildings of St Sal-
vator's college form a magnificent square, ornament-
ed by a handsome spire 156 feet high. Through
a portal directly under this spire we enter a quad-
rangular court, 230 feet long, and 180 broad, de-
corated by piazzas on the opposite side. On the
right, as we enter, stands the chapel, a handsome
edifice, with a Gothic front. In the chapel is an
elegant tomb, erected by Bishop Kennedy, the
founder, for himself. " It is a piece of exquisite
Gothic workmanship ; and though much injured by
time and accidents, is still sufficiently entire to show
the fine taste of the designer. It stands on the north
side of the church, opposite to where the altar for-
merly stood, and where the pulpit now stands. An
epitaph is easily discernible upon it, consisting of two
lines, but so much defaced as to be altogether illegi-
ble. The top was ornamented by a representation
of our Saviour, with angels around, and the instru-
ments of the passion. The bishop died in 1466, and
was embalmed with spices and buried in this tomb.
Within it, and according to tradition about the year
1683, were discovered six magnificent maces, which
had been concealed there in troublesome times.
Three of these maces are kept in this college, and
shown as curiosities to strangers ; and one was pre-
sented to each of the other three Scottish universi-
ties, Aberdeen, Glasgow, and Edinburgh. One of
the maces is very superior in elegance and value to
the rest, and is the original, of which the others are
only copies. It is of beautiful Gothic workmanship.
The bishop seems to have copied it in the architec-
ture of his tomb." The roof of the church, which
was of beautiful Gothic architecture, having become
apparently insufficient, it was judged necessary to
pull it down, and to substitute another in its place.
In doing this, the architect unfortunately suffered
the beautiful tomb of Kennedy to be greatly injured
and defaced.
St Leonard's college obtained its name from its
vicinity to St Leonard's church. " It appears "
ST ANDREWS.
as>
Bays a modern author, " from the foundation-charter,
that there had been an hospital in the same place for
the reception and entertainment of pilgrims of differ-
ent nations, who crowded to St Andrews to pay
their devotions to the arm of St Andrew which
wrought a great many miracles. At length, how-
ever, the saint's arm being tired with such laborious
<ort of work, or thinking he had done enough, the
m'racles and the conflux of pilgrims ceased, and the
lospital was deserted. The prior and convent, who
lad been the founders and were the patrons of the
hospital, then filled it with old women ; but these
old women produced little or no fruit of devotion,
and were turned out. The prior and convent, having
•epaired the church and hospital of St Leonard, next
•esolved to convert them into a college, to consist of
i master or principal, four chaplains, two of whom
,vere to be regents, and twenty scholars, who were
first to be taught the languages and then the liberal
arts and sciences ; six of them, who were thought
most fit, were also to apply, with great ardour and
vehement reading, — * continuo studio et lectura,
vehementi opera,' — to the study of theology under
the principal. Such of these scholars as were found
fittest for it, were also to be taught music, both plain
song and descant. The foundation-charter to this
purpose, was executed by the archbishop, the prior,
and chapter, at St Andrews, August 20, 1512. By
another charter, the prior and chapter endowed this
college with all the houses, lands, and revenues
which had belonged to St Leonard's hospital." Both
these charters received the royal confirmation in the
year On the union of this college with St Salvator's,
the buildings of it were sold and converted into dwell-
ing-houses, to which purpose such of them as now
remain are still applied. It stood on the south-east
side of the town, adjoining to the monastery. The
ruins of the church of St Leonard are accounted a
fine specimen of Gothic architecture. Into this
church, it seems, Dr Johnson could obtain no ad-
mission. He was always, he says, prevented by some
civil excuse or other ; and he loudly complains of
its having been applied to the profane purpose of a
green-house. It is now entirely unroofed. A little
way to the east of it, and on the right, as we proceed
from the principal gate of the abbey to the shore,
stands an aged sycamore, which, the same traveller
informs us, was the only tree he had been able to
discover in the county "older than himself." It
is now commonly known by the name of Dr John-
son's Tree.
St Mary's college was originally projected by
Archbishop James Beaton, uncle and immediate
predecessor to the famous cardinal of that name.
We are informed, that in the year 1537, " he
augmented the seminary called the Pedagogy, by a
variety of endowments, and afterwards converted it
into St Mary's college : that he had determined to
pull down the buildings of the above-mentioned
seminary, which were become old and infirm, and in-
convenient for the studies of the youth, and to erect
from the foundation others in a more magnificent
style, but was prevented by death. He built, how-
ever," says our authority, " several parts, and com-
pleted some that had been begun by others. His
successor and nephew, the cardinal, proposed to fol-
low out his uncle's plans, and had made some pro-
gress in the undertaking when he was assassinated
in the castle. Having demolished a set of old build-
ings, he laid the foundation of what was intended to
be a handsome church, within the college, but this
was never finished." In 1553, Archbishop Hamilton
gave a new establishment to this college, according
to which it was to consist of 36 persons : viz., a pre-
fect, a licentiate, a bachelor, a canonist, 8 students
of theology, 3 professors of philosophy, 2 of rhetoric
and grammar, 16 philosophy students, a provisor, a.
janitor, and a cook. The income of this college on
an average of 7 years preceding 1826, was ,£1,076.
The principal has a salary of ±"238; the professor of
divinity, of .£231; the church-history professor,
.£286; and the Hebrew professor, .£211. By the
charters of foundation, the right of patronage of the
parishes of Tynningham, Tannadice, Inehbroyack or
Craig, Pert and Laurencekirk, was vested in St
Mary's college. Pert is now united to Logie, and
the crown and college present to that united parish
alternately. The patronage of Tynningham was
sold by the college to the Earl of Haddington, in the
year 1760, but the college is still in possession of the
other patronages. In the year 1S03, the college ob-
tained the right of patronage to the church of
Tweedsmuir ; and it would appear from the evidence,
that it was granted to the college by the late Mr
Scott, of Dunninaid. There are 17 bursaries, the
total annual income of which averages jE199. The
average number of students is about 80. The build-
ings of this college stand on the south side of South-
street, forming two sides of a quadrangle. On the
west are the teaching and dining-halls, both upon the
first floor; and immediately below is the prayer halL
in which the students used to assemble twice every
day, viz., at nine in the morning, and at eight at
night, for public prayers. The evening-service was
abolished some years ago. The north side of the
quadrangle is formed by the principal's house, and
other buildings formerly laid out in lodging-rooms
for students, with the porter's house over the gate-
way. Contiguous, towards the east, is the Univer-
sity library, containing 35,000 volumes, and forming
in continuation with these buildings, part of the south
side of South-street.
The Madras college was founded by the Rev. Dr
Andrew Bell, one of the prebendaries of Westmin-
ster, and the founder of the Madras system of tuition,
who died at Cheltenham, in January, 1832. Dr Bell
was a native of St Andrews, and, among other
splendid bequests for the purposes of education in
Scotland, lett a sum of £50,000 in trust, for the pur-
pose of founding a seminary within the city of St
Andrews, with which the English and grammar-
schools are now incorporated. The buildings are in
the Elizabethan style, and form a handsome quad-
rangle, with a court within. In May, 1836, the
number of pupils attending the Madras college was
798. The branches taught are English, Greek, and
Latin, arithmetic, mathematics, geography, writing,
drawing, French, German, and Italian, and church-
music. The trustees are the provost of the city,
the two parish-ministers, and the sheriff-depute of
Fife. The lord-lieutenant of Fife, the lord-justice-
clerk of Scotland, and the epis opal bishop of Edin-
burgh, are patrons and visitors of the college.
St Andrews is a place of great antiquity, and has
been the scene of some of the most memorable events
recorded in Scottish history. We have already no-
ticed several of the most memorable facts in its early
annals; and will now supply a few additional his-
torical notices to complete our sketch of the civil
and the ecclesiastical history of this city. In 1298,
Edward I., after defeating Wallace at Falkirk, sent a
division of his army across the Forth to punish the
men of Fife for the aid they had given Wallace.
They found St Andrews deserted of its inhabitants,
and " wasted it full plaine." In March 1309, Robert
Bruce convened his first parliament here, who re-
cognised his title to the crown, by a solemn declara-
tion. In the 15th and 16th centuries the sanguinary
temper of its ecclesiastics was often tearfully dis-
played. In 1407, John Resby, an Englishman, war
40
ST ANDREWS.
burnt alive in this "town of monks and bones,"
for disseminating the doctrines of Wickliffe ; and
about twenty-four years afterwards, Paul Craw, a
Bohemian, suffered the same fate, for propagating
the tenets of Jerome and Huss. On March 1st,
1527, Patrick Hamilton, abbot of Feme in Ross-
shire, a young man of great accomplishments, and re-
lated to some powerful families, being the son of
Sir 'Patrick Hamilton of Kincavil, and Catherine,
daughter of the Duke of Albany, and a nephew of the
Earl of Arran, was burnt before the gate of St Sal-
vator's college. Not many months after, a man of
the name of Forrest was led to the stake for asserting
that Hamilton died amartyr. On the 28th of March,
1545, the sainted Wishart was burnt before the castle,
then the archiepiscopal palace of the ferocious Cardi-
nal Beaton, under circumstances of peculiar barbarity.
The front of the great tower was hung, as for a festi-
val, with rich tapestry ; and cushions of velvet were
laid in the windows for the cardinal and prelates to
repose on, while they feasted their eyes and glutted
their fury with this most inhuman spectacle. The
cardinal was so infuriated against the noble confessor
that he forbade, by proclamation, the inhabitants of
St Andrews to pray for him, under pain of the severest
ecclesiastical censures ; and, in his haste to get his
victim put out of the way, the civil power was not
consulted at the trial. But the avenger of blood was
nigh at hand. By his unbounded ambition, relentless
cruelty, and insupportable arrogance, Beaton had
raised up against himself a host of enemies, who had
even before Wishart 's arrest and execution determin-
ed on his destruction. A conspiracy was formed
against his life, at the head of which was Norman
Lesley, Master of Rothes, his uncle John Lesley,
and Khkaldy of Grange. With fourteen associates,
they assembled in the church-yard, on Saturday the
29th of May 1545, at 3 o'clock in the morning; and
having gained admittance into the castle — which was
then repairing — by small parties at a time, they turn-
ed the servants out, to the number of 150 ; and then
proceeding to the cardinal's room, forced open the
door, which their wretched victim had barricaded
from the inside, and rushing upon him, stabbed him
repeatedly with their daggers. But ■ Melville, a
milder fanatic, who professed to murder, not from
passion, but religious duty, reproved their violence :
" This judgment of God," said he, "ought to be exe-
cuted with gravity, although in secret ;" and present-
ing the point of his sword to the bleeding prelate,
he called on him to repent of his wicked courses,
and especially of the death of the holy Wishart, to
avenge whose innocent blood they were now sent
by God. " Remember," said he, " that the mortal
stroke I am now about to deal, is not the mercenary
blow of a hired assassin, but the just vengeance
which hath fallen on an obstinate and cruel enemy
of Christ and the Holy Gospel." On his saying this,
he repeatedly passed his sword through the body of
his unresisting victim, who sunk down from the chair
to which he had retreated, and instantly expired. The
conspirators then brought the body to the very win-
jow in which Beaion had a little ago sat with so much
unfeeling pride to witness the burning of Wishart,
and exposed it to tie view of the people with every
mark of contempt and ignominy. Balfour says, that
the cardinal's corpse, " after he had lyne salted in the
bottom of the sea-tower within the castell, was some
9 months thereafter taken from thence, and obscure-
ly interred in the convent of the Black friars of St
Andrews, in anno 1547." John Knox, after having,
as he expresses himself, " written merrily" upon the
subject, informs us, that "as his funeral could not
be suddenly prepared, it was thought best to keep
him from spoiling, to give him great salt enough, a
cope of lead, and a corner in the sea-tower, (a place
where many of God's children had been imprisoned
before) to wait what exequies his brethren the
bishops would prepare for him." Language such as
this can hardly fail to inspire disgust ; but the follow-
ing lines of Sir David Lindsay of the Mount, express,
perhaps with tolerable accuracy, the sentiments with
which the most judicious individuals amongst there-
formers at that time regarded the cardinal's murder:
' A9 for the cardinal, I grant,
He was the man we well might want ;
God will forgive it soon.
Etit of a truth, the sooth to say.
Although the hum be well away,
The deed was foully done."
The conspirators were shortly after joined by 120
of their friends, and held out the castle for more
than a year ; but at last capitulated to Leo Strozzi,
prior of Capua, a knight of Rhodes, who entered the
bay with a squadron of 16 galleons, and speedily
effected a breach in the walls. In April, 1558, Wal-
ter Mylne, priest of Lunan, near Montrose, an infirm
old man, above 80 years of age, was burnt at St An-
drews for the crime of heresy. So strongly was the
resentment of the populace expressed on this occasion,
that he was the last victim of popish cruelty in Scot-
land. It was at St Andrews, in June 1583, that James
VI. found means to make his escape from the state of
captivity into which he had been brought at Ruthven,
and detained for nearly a twelvemonth by the Earls of
Mar, Gowrie, Glencairn, andothers. The king having
got permission from these noblemen, who then attend
ed him at Falkland, to pay a visit to his uncle the Earl
of March, who resided in the monastery of St An-
drews, went to view the works of the castle a short
time after bis arrival. He entered the fortress ac-
companied by the governor, to whom he had con-
fided his intentions ; but was no sooner in than he
commanded the gates to be shut, and admission re-
fused to the party who had attended him from Falk-
land. Having thus recovered his liberty, he was
soon joined by the well-affected part of his nobility;
and a proclamation was forthwith issued by him,
" commanding all the lieges to remain quiet, and dis-
charging any nobleman or gentleman from coming to
court accompanied by more than the following num-
ber of attendants : viz. fifteen for an earl, fifteen for
a bishop, ten for. a lord, ten for an abbot or prior,
and six for a baron, and these to come peaceably un-
der the highest penalties." In 1609, St Andrews
was the scene of a state-trial : that of Lord Balmeri-
noch, secretary of state to James VI. His crime
was the having surreptitiously procured the king's
signature to a letter addressed to the pope ; and being
found guilty by a jury of fifteen of his peers, he was
sentenced to have his hands and feet cut off, and his
lands and titles forfeited. The first part of the sen-
tence was remitted by the intercession of the queen ;
but he died a short time after, in his own house, of
a broken heart. In 1617, James VI. having, from
what he himself calls " a salmon-like instinct to see
the place of his breeding," paid a visit to Scotland,
and convened an assembly of the clergy, both minis -
ters and bishops, at St Andrews. He addressed
them in a speech of considerable length, in which he
proposed the introduction of episcopacy, and up-
braided them with what he called " having mutinous-
ly assembled themselves, and formed a protestation
to cross his just desires." James was the last mon-
arch who ever honoured St Andrews with his pre-
sence. During the troublesome times which follow-
ed his death in 1625, while his son and grandsons
successively filled the throne, and endeavoured to
follow out his plans in the establishment of the epis-
copal religion in Scotland, this city, as being the seat
ST ANDREWS.
41
of the chief ecclesiastical power, was frequently in-
volved in trouble. The murder of Archbishop Sharp,
in the neighbourhood of St Andrews in 1679, will
be found detailed in our article, Magus Moor. The
history of the city of St Andrews since that period
presents nothing sufficiently remarkable for notice
in this brief chronicle. We shall now sketch the
history of the see.
Kenneth III. translated the metropolitan episcopal
see of Scotland from Abernethy to St Andrews.
Malcolm III. styled the bishop of St Andrews ' Epis-
copus Maximus,' or Chief Bishop, and assigned to him
the oversight of Fife, Lothian, Stirlingshire, the
Merse, Angus, and the Mearns. He also conferred
upon him the lordship of Monymusk. Alexander I.
bestowed upon the see of St Andrews the famous
track of land called the Cursus Apri, or Boar's chace,
of which it is not now possible for us to assign the
exact limits; but "so called," says Boece, "from a
boar of uncommon size, which, after having made
prodigious havoc of men and cattle, and having been
frequently attacked by the huntsmen unsuccessfully,
and to the imminent peril of their lives, was at last
set upon by the whole country up in arms against
him, and killed while endeavouring to make his
escape across this track of ground." The historian
farther adds, that there were extant in his time
manifest proofs of the existence of this huge beast ;
its two tusks, each sixteen inches long and four thick,
being fixed with iron chains to the great altar of St
Andrews. According to the best authorities, there
were thirty-three successive prelates in St Andrews
before the see was elevated to the dignity of an
archbishopric, in 1471- Nevill, archbishop of York,
having revived a claim of superiority over the Scot-
tish clergy, which had already been productive of
much ill-will betwixt the two countries, the pope,
to silence the pretensions of York for ever, granted
a bull erecting the bishopric of St Andrews into an
archbishopric, and subjecting to it the other dioceses
of the church of Scotland. The prelate, in whose
favour this bull was obtained, was Patrick Graham,
formerly bishop of Brechin, and brother, by the mo-
ther's side, to the celebrated James Kennedy his
immediate predecessor. Graham, along with the
primacy, obtained the power of a legate from the
pope, for the reformation of abuses, and correcting
the vices of the clergy. But he does not appear to
have been aware of the difficulties he had to encoun-
ter here, for the clergy, with one consent, set them-
selves in opposition to him, and had influence enough
to destroy his credit even with the pope himself.
They accused him to his holiness of schism, and
other enormous crimes, and prevailed so completely
as to get him degraded from his office. " The no-
bility and courtiers also," says Spottiswood, " became
his most violent opponents, insomuch that he was
suspended by the king, excommunicated by the
pope, expelled from his see, and, at the end of thir-
teen years from the date of his election, died in a
state of imprisonment in the castle of Lochleven."
The dioceses subject to the archbishop of St An-
drews, after the pJdvancement of the see of Glasgow
to the same dignity, were the following nine : Dun-
keld, Dumblane, Brechin, Aberdeen, Moray, Ross,
Caithness, Orkney, and, after its erection in the
reign of Charles I., Edinburgh. The province of
the see of Glasgow included the three dioceses of
Galloway, Argyle, and the Isles. The following is
a list of the successive bishops and archbishops of
St Andrews :
Fergustus 721.
Hadrianus, or Adrian, elected
840, killed by the Danes 872.
Kellach I.
Malisius, or Malvesius I.,
in 970.
Kellach II. died 996.
Malroore.
Malisius II. died 1031.
Alwinus, from 1031—1034.
Maldwin, 1034— 1061.
Tuthaldus, 1061—1065.
Fothaldus, 1065—1077.
Gregorius, bishop-elect.
Catharus.
Edmarus.
Godricus.
Turcot, died 1115.
Eadmerus, elected in 1120.
Robert, founder of the priorv,
elected in 1122, died in 1159.
Arnold, founder of the Cathe-
dral, died in 1162.
Richard, chaplain to Malcolm
IV., died in 1177.
John and H'jgh, a doable elec-
tion.
Roger, who built the castle,
died in 1202.
William Malvoisine, chancel-
lor of the kingdom, died 1233.
David Bernham.
Abel.
Garaeline, chancellor.
William Wishart, died 1279.
William Fraser, chancellor.
William Lamberton, died 1S2S.
James Bene, died 1332.
Vacancy of nine years.
William Landal, died in 13S5.
Stephen de Pay.
Walter Trail, repaired the
castle, died 1401.
Thomas Stewart.
Henry Wardlaw, founder of
the university, consecrated
in 1403. died 1440.
James Kennedy, founder of
St Salvator's college, died
1466.
Patrick Graham, the first arch-
bishop, died 1478.
William Schives, died 1496.
James Stuart, chancellor, died
in 1503.
Alexander Stuart, chancellor,
killed at Flodden 1513.
Andrew Foreman, died 1522.
James Beaton, chancellor, died
in 1539.
David Beaton, cardinal and
chancellor, assassinated in
1545.
John Hamilton, hanged at
Stirling in 1570.
John Douglas, the first Pro-
testant bishop, consecrated in
1571, died 1576.
Patrick Adamson, died 1591.
Vacancy of fifteen years,
George Gladstanes, died 1615.
John Spottiswood, chancellor,
the historian, died 1639.
James Sharp, assassinated in
Magus-rouir in 1679.
Alexander Burnet, died in
16S4.
Arthur Ross, deprived of his
office at the Revolution in
1683, died in 1704.
It appears that the bishops of St Andrews had
the power of coining money. But "the tradition
goes," says Martine, " that they could not coin above
a groat-piece; but this," continues he, "may be
allowed to be a mere conjecture, for the German
bishops, who coin, are not so restricted and limited.
For proof that sometimes this privilege has been in
use, I have seen copper coins bearing the same mond,
chapleted about and adorned with a cross on the
top, just in all things like the mond set by Bishop
Kennedy in sundry places of St Salvator's college,
both in stone and timber, and the same way adorned,
with a common St George's cross on the reverse.
The circumscriptions are not legible. And some
think that the magistrates of St Andrews, keeping
in their charter-chest some of these pennies, have
done it in honour of their Overlord, and for an in-
stance and remembrance of his royal privilege, which
no subject in Britain has beside." As the city of
St Andrews lay wholly within the archbishop's re-
gality, he was superior of all its property in land.
He was ' Conservator privilegiorum Ecclesiee Scoti-
canEe,' guardian of the privileges of the church of
Scotland, and constant chancellor of the university
ex officio ; but he was in many cases also promoted
to the dignity of lord-high-chancellor of Scotland i
and it was his privilege, in general, to officiate at the
coronation of the kings. Godricus, bishop of this
place, crowned King Edgar, son of Malcolm Can-
more ; and Charles I. was crowned by Spottiswood
in 1633. The archbishop was, by act of parliament,
in the time of Charles II. constituted perpetual pre-
sident of the general assembly of the church of Scot-
land ; and he sat in parliament as a temporal lord in
all the following capacities: "As Lord- Archbishop
of St Andrews; Primate of the Kingdom; first of
both states, Spiritual and Temporal; Lord of the
Lordship and Priory of St Andrews ; Lord Keig
and Monymusk; Lord Byrehills and Polduff; Lord
Kirkliston, Lord Bishopshire, Lord Muckhartshire,
Lord Scotscraig, Lord Stow, Lord Monymail, Lord
Dairsie, Lord Angus, Lord Tyningham, and Lord
Little Preston;" he also took precedency of all
noblemen whatever in the kingdom. When the
privy council, in 1561, passed the famous act enjoin-
ing all beneficed persons to give in an exact account
of the rental of their benefices, Hamilton, archbishop
of St Andrews, gave in the following account of his :
42
ST ANDREWS.
Chald.
Boll
30
9
41
10
67
0
In money . . . £2,901 7 2
Chald. Boll.
Wheat
Bear
Oats
Mf Grierson estimates this revenue at £4,784 pre-
sent currency. "And if," he says, "we add to
this sura the value of the priory, and other aliena-
tions which had before this time taken place, we
shall be led to think that the income of the pre-
lates of St Andrews, when in their most flourish-
ing condition, could not be much less in value than
£10,000, that is, than that sum would have been
in 1805. The first great alienation of the revenues
of this see was the foundation of the priory in
1120; the second, the erection of the hospital of
Lochleven, or Scotland Well, in 1230; the third,
the foundation and endowment of St Salvator's col-
lege by Bishop Kennedy in 1455; the fourth, the
disponing of Muckartshire by Schives to the Earl of
Argyll, to engage that earl to assist him in his dis-
pute with the bishop of Glasgow ; the fifth, the
erection of St Mary's college by the archbishops
Stuart and the two Beatons ; and the sixth, the act
of annexation in 1587, by which this see, with all the
other church-benefices in the kingdom, was an-
nexed to the Crown, and the rents and revenues of
it disponed to the Duke of Lennox by James VI.,
excepting only a small pittance, reserved as barely
sufficient for the subsistence of Archbishop Adamson.
It is true, this act of annexation was repealed in
1606; but in the act repealing it, and restoring the
revenues ot the see, there were a number of impor-
tant reservations made which prevented it from at-
taining its former riches. The erection of the
bishopric of Edinburgh, in 1633, was another great
loss; for all the lands and churches, south of the
Forth, belonging to the archbishopric, were now dis-
united from it, and conferred upon the new see.
Yet the loss of these was in some measure compen-
sated by the bounty of Charles I., who having, two
years after, purchased the priory from the Duke of
Lennox, to whom it had been gifted by James VI.,
disponed this benefice to the archbishopric in lieu of
the loss it had sustained. Such were the most im-
portant changes, losses, and revolutions, which this
see, in the course of five centuries, from time to time
underwent." The number of monks in the priory
at the Reformation was, according to Martine, thirty-
four, besides inferior servants ; and of these thirty-
four, "fourteen," says he, "turned preachers, at
certain kirks of the priory, and some continued about
the monastery till their death." The priories of May,
Pittenweem, Lochleven, and Monymusk — of all
which monasteries the monks were also Augustini-
nians — were dependent on the priory of St Andrews.
The revenues of it in Martine's time, consisted, he
tells us, in " silver, feu-duties, rentalled teind-bolls,
tack teind-duties, capons, poultry, and small sums
in the name of kain ; the houses and yards within
the precincts of the monastery ; the teinds of the 480
acres of land on the south side of the town, now
called the Prior acres, formerly the convent's glebe ;
and the privilege of having the teind sheaves led into
the priory barn by the heritors and tenants them-
selves. The yearly rent," he continues, " of the
priory is at present as good as that of the archbishop-
ric, if not better ; and within a few years, at the
falling of some tacks, it will be much better." When
the act of council, in 1561, passed for the assumption
of the revenues of all the church-benefices, that a
third part of their value might be applied to the
maintenance of the ministers of religion, and the re-
maining two-thirds to defray the expenses of the
£2,237 18 1
Chald.
EolL
38
1
132
7
114,
3
151
10
5
7
king's household, the rental of the priory of St An-
drews was found to be as follows :
In money
Wheat
B.-ar
Meal • .
Oats
Beans and pease ,
The following parish churches belonged to the priory
and paid tithes to it : viz., the Trinity church of St
Andrews, now the town-church, Leuchars, Forgan,
Cupar, Dairsie, Lathrisk, Kilgour, Scoonie, Kenno-
way, Markinch, Eglesgreig, Fordun in the Mearns,
Bourthie, Nigvie and Tarlane, Dull in Athole, Long-
forgan, Rossie in Gowrie, Inchture, Fowlis, Port
moak, Abercrombie, Linlithgow, Haddington, Bin-
ning, and Preston. The vicarage was annexed to the
archbishopric in 1606; but was assigned afterwards
by the archbishop to the newly erected parish of Cam-
eron, that parish having been detached from the too
extensive parish of St Andrews, and having no legal
maintenance belonging to it The provostry of
Kirkheugh was a convent of seculars, governed by a
prafectus, or provost, and unquestionably the most
ancient religious establishment of any in this place.
It is believed by some to have been founded by St
Regulus himself, and to be the same with the insti-
tution which went by the name of ' Ecclesia Sanctae
Mariae de rupe,' or St Mary's church on the rock,
and of which the chapel stood on a rock now covered
by the sea at high water, and which still goes by the
name ot the Lady-craig, situated near the extremity
of the present pier. There was also a chapel, called
' Ecclesia Sancta; Maria;,' on the hill above the har-
bour— In June, 1841, her Majesty's Attorney-gene-
ral, Sir John Campbell, Knt., on succeeding Lord
Plunkett as Lord-chancellor of Ireland, was elevated
to the dignity of a Baron of the United Kingdom,
by the title of Baron Campbell of St. Andrews
ST ANDREWS. See Deerness, Dundee,
Dunfermline, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Greenock,
Lhanbride.
ANGUS, the ancient name of Forfarshire:
which see. At a very early period the name Angus was
given to the district of country lying between the
North Esk on the north, and the Tay and Isla on
the south. It is thought by some antiquaries to have
been so called from Angus, a brother of Kenneth
II., on whom this district was bestowed by Kenneth
after his conquest of the Picts. Others think that
the hill of Angus, a little to the eastward of Aber-
lemno church, was, in ancient times, a noted place
of rendezvous on occasions of great public gatherings;
and that the name was ultimately extended to the
surrounding country. It seems more probable that
the hill itself derived its name from the district. —
The How or Hollow of Angus is a finely diversified
valley in the northern part of Forfarshire, extending
above 30 miles in length, from the western boundary
of the parish of Kettins to the mouth of the North
Esk ; its breadth varies from 4 to 6 miles. — The
earldom of Angus now belongs in title to the Duke
of Hamilton. It was in the line of Douglas previous
to 1329 ; and it has been ascertained by Mr Riddell
that it again came into the old line of Douglas by a
natural son of William, first Earl of Douglas. — The
synod of Angus and Mearns comprehends the pres-
byteries of Meigle, Forfar, Dundee, Brechin, Ar-
broath, and Fordoun.
ANN'S (ST). See Glasgow.
ANNAN, a parish in the district of Annandale,
Dumfries-shire, on the northern shore of the Solway
frith, along which it extends above 3 miles. It is
about 8 miles in length, and from 1 to 4$ in breadth,
ANN
43
ANN
containing 11,100 imperial acres; bounded on the
north by Hoddam and Middlebie parishes ; on the
east by Kirkpatrick-Fleming, and Dornock ; on the
south by the frith of Solway ; and on the west by
Cummertrees. The surface is comparatively level",
■with a declination towards the south. Woodcock-
air is the highest elevation. It is a conical shaped
hill, clothed with wood, and rising to an altitude of
320 feet above sea-level. The shores are flat and
sandy. The soil is generally a rich clay. There are
extensive tracts of heath-covered moorland towards
the east of the town of Annan. The banks of the
Annan, and the elevated parts of the parish, are or-
namented with belts of planting. There is a salmon
fishery at the mouth of the river. The turnpike
roads from Dumfries to Carlisle, and from Annan to
Edinburgh, intersect the parish. Population of the
parish and town, in 1S01, 3,341 ; in 1831, 5,033.
By a survey of the parish-minister in 1S35, the po-
pulation was then estimated at 5,613, of whom 3,951
belonged to the established church. Houses S08.
Assessed property .£12,800. In 1836, a portion of
this parish, comprehending the village of Bridekirk,
and a population of 765 souls, was annexed to the
new quoad sacra parish of Bridekirk : which see.
Minister's stipend £279 2s. 4d., with a manse, and a
glebe of the annual value of £30. Unappropriated
teinds £191 15s. Church built in 1790, and re-
cently repaired ; sittings 1,200. Patron, Mr Hope
Johnstone. — An United Secession congregation was
established in Annan in 1805. Church built in 1834—
5; sittings 746. Minister's stipend £110, with manse
and garden A Relief congregation was established
in 1833. Church built in 1834-5; sittings 639.
Stipend £100 A Roman Catholic chapel was
opened in 1S39 There are 3 parochial schools ;
and 19 schools not parochial. The master of the
burgh parish-school has a salary of £32 10s. ; with
about £40 school-fees, and £12 other emoluments :
the salaries of the other two parish schoolmasters are
£10 each, with about £20 of fees. Annan parish is
in the presbytery of Annan and synod of Dumfries.
It was formerly a rectory.
AXNAX, a royal burgh in the above parish, and
the capital of Annandale, is 15^ miles east by south of
Dumfries; 84 west of Gretna-green ; 12 south of
Lockerby ; and 79 from Edinburgh. It is situated on
the left bank of the river Annan, near its discharge
into the frith of Sol way. It is one of the most ancient
towns in Scotland, ha vingreceiveditsfirst charterfrom
Robert Bruce. The subsisting charter was granted by
James VI., in 1612; but it had previously been erected
into a burgh by James V., in 1538. The houses are
neat and well-built of good freestone, and the town
has been considerably improved of late years ; several
new streets having been opened, and a number of new
houses built. At the east end of the town is the
parish-church ; and at the other extremity are the
town-house and markets. There is a bridge of 3
arches over the river at the west end of the High-
street ; from this bridge, a street conducts to the ]Sew
quay, about 1,000 yards lower down the river. The
academy, erected in 1S20, in Ednam-street, is a large
building, with apartments for the rector. Annan
formerly carried on a considerable trade in wine, and
exported nearly 15,000 bolls of corn ; ship-building
is carried on to a considerable extent; and there is a
small cotton-mill and rope-works. A considerable
quantity of coarse ginghams are manufactured for
Carlisle. Hand-loom weavers make about 6s. per
week ; 35 years ago they might make 35s. Bacon
and hams are extensively cured here and exported
to Newcastle and London ; and fat cattle are export-
ed to Liverpool. The Commercial bank, the British
Linen company, and the Southern bank of Scotland,
have branches in Annan. Hiring-markets are held
on the 1st Thursday in May, and 3d Thursday in
October. The weekly market-day is Thursday.
The mouth of the river forms a good natural har-
bour, having from 12 to 13 feet water in the
lowest tides, and from IS to 20 in the low-
est spring-tides. In 1833, there were 33 vessels,
measuring 2,264 tons, belonging to this port. An-
nan is governed by a provost, 3 bailies, a treasurer,
a dean-of-guild, and 15 councillors. It possesses
extensive burgh-roods and commonties, the latter
of which have been divided, and are in a state
of improvement. Its revenue, arising from rents,
fisheries, tolls, and feu-duties, amounted, in 1833, to
£670 ; its debts to £4,500 ; its expenditure in or-
dinary to £437. In 1837, the corporation revenue
was £644. The real rent of the old royalty was,
in 1833, about £11,861; and of that part of the
burgal property within the parliamentary bounds
£8,000. The ancient royalty comprehends a dis-
trict of above 5 miles in length ; the parliamentary
line has greatly limited the burgh. The magistrates
hold no patronage ; and there is no guild or incorpo-
ration. The parliamentary constituency, in 1832,
consisted of 170. The amount of assessed taxes
payable from the burgh is £381 9s. 6d. Annan
joins with Dumfries, Lochmaben, Sanquhar, and
Kirkcudbright, in sending a member to parliament.
The municipal anil the parliamentary constituency,
in 1837-S. was 176. The population of the town is
about 4,500. Annan was the birth-place of the late
Rev. Edward Irving.
ANNAN (The), a river of Dumfries-shire, flow-
ing through the centre of the county from north to
south. It rises among the high mountains and
fells in which the shires of Dumfries, Lanark, and
Peebles, touch each other; but its chief feeders flow
from the southern and western base of the mountain
which gives name to the Hartfell group, which is in
the parish of Moffat, on the borders of Peebles-shire,
and has an elevation of 2,635 feet. These feeders
flow south-west, and successively discharge them-
selves into a stream holding a course nearly direct
south from Corehead to Bridgend. At the latter
place, the stream, now of considerable volume, in-
clines a little towards the east, and forming the
boundary betwixt the parishes of Kirkpatrick-Juxta
and Moffat, passes the village of Moffat, below which
it receives in succession, a stream descending from
SnawfelL and the Frenchland burn, both coming
from the north-east ; and about 2A miles below, is
joined bv Moffat water coming from the north-
eastern, and Evan water descending from the north-
western, extremity of the parish. These two tribu-
taries unite with the Annan on opposite sides, at one
point, at an elevation of about 350 feet above sea-level.
Its next important tributary is "YVamphray water, com-
ing from the north-east, soon after receiving which,
its course becomes very meandering, though still bear-
ing southwards. A little below Applegirth kirk it
receives an important tributary from the north-west,
in funnel water ; at the southern extremity of Dryfes-
dale parish, of which it forms the western boundary,
it bends eastwards to St Mungo kirk. At the
south-eastern extremity of St Mungo parish, it re
ceives the Milke water, from its junction with which
its course is south-east, to its junction with the Mein
water, in the parish of Hoddam. From this latter
point its course is nearly south to the town of Annan,
whence its estuary sweeps in a south-west and then
south-east direction into the upper part of the Sol-
wav frith. Its total length of course is about 30
miles. Its general character, in the lower part ot
its course, is that of a gently flowing pastoral stream,
which is perhaps indicated in its name Amhana in
ANN
44
ANS
Gaelic, signifying the slow-running water. Allan
Cunningham styles it 'the silver Annan.' In the
ballad of ' Annan Water,' [Minstrelsy of the Scottish
Border, Vol. III. p. 284, Cadell's edn.] it is styled
'a drumlie river ;' but this was during a spate, the
tragical consequences of which are commemorated in
the ballad ; and the editor informs us that when
■ Aunan water's wading deep,'
that river and the frith into which it falls are the
frequent scenes of tragical accidents.
ANNANDALE, the vale or basin of the above
river, and a stewartry or district of Dumfries-shire.
Professor Jamieson is of opinion that Annandale
must have been, in ancient times, the bed of an inland
lake. It is a fertile tract of country, about 30 miles
long, and from 15 to 18 broad. It is bounded on the
west by Nithsdale ; and on the east by Eskdale, and
includes 20 parishes. From its vicinity to the borders,
and the continual predatory excursions to which it
was exposed, the greater part was long uncultivated
and common ; but it has assumed a very different
appearance since the beginning of last century.
There are several lakes in this district. Coal and
lime are wrought in it. Annandale was anciently a
part of the Roman province of Valentia ; it after-
wards, by a grant from David I., soon after his ac-
cession to the throne, in 1124, to Robert de Brus,
son of one of William the Conqueror's Norman barons,
with whom David had formed a friendship while at
the court of Henry I. of England, became a lordship
under the Bruces, who took their title from it.*
About the year 1371, upon the demise of David II., it
fell into the hands of Randolph, Earl of Moray, re-
gent during the minority of David; and, with the
hand of his sister Agnes, it went to the Dunbars,
Earls of March. After their forfeiture, it fell to the
Douglasses, who lost it by the same fate. It now
belongs chiefly to the Earl of Hopetoun. It former-
ly gave the title of Marquis to the gallant border-
family of Johnstone. The lineal heirship of this title
became extinct, on the death of George, 3d marquis,
in 1792. There are now several claimants for the
title. Lochmaben castle was the principal fort in this
district; and was deemed almost impregnable. From
having been a Roman province it abounds with Ro-
man stations and antiquities. Part of Severus's wall,
* Much confusion prevailed among our historical writers as
to the genealogical relations of the family of Bruce, uutil Chal-
mers, in his ' Caledonia,1 and Kerr, in his ( History of Scotland
during the reign of Robert I.' pointed out the existing discre-
pancies, and traced the descent of this illustrious line. Robert
de Brus entered England with William, duke of Normandy, in
1066 ; his son, of the same name, who is frequently confounded
with him, received a grant of the lordship of Annandale as
above mentioned ; but immediately before the battle of the
Standard, in 1133, he renounced his allegiance to David I., on
finding himself unable to persuade the Scottish king to enter
into terms of peace with Enpland. He died on his paternal
English estate of Gysburn in Yorkshire, in 1141, and was suc-
ceeded in his English estates by his elder son, the ancestor of
the English Bruces of Skeltou. Robert Brus, his younger son,
is said to have received the transfer of Annandale from his
father immediately before the battle of the Standard, and to
have borne arms against the English in that engagement.
This 3d Robert lived in the reigns of David I., Malcolm IV.,
and William the Lion. His son, the 4th Robert, married
Isabel, a natural daughter of William the Lion. He died in
1191, and was succeeded in the lordship of Annandale by his
Bon William, who died in 1215. Robert the 5th of the name,
married Isabel, second daughter of David, Earl of Huntington,
who was the younger broUier of William the Lion, thus in-
troducing the legitimate royal blood of Scotland into the family
of Bruce. The 5th Robert Bruce died in 1215, and was succeed-
ed by the 6th of the name, who married a daughter of Gilbert
de Clare, Earl of Gloucester. He opposed the Cumyn influence
in the affairs of Scotland ; and at the age of 81 engaged in the
competition for the Crown of Scotland ; but ultimately resigned
his rights in favour of his sou Robert, Earl of Carrick. He
died in 1295. His Bon accompanied Edward of England to Pa-
lestine in 1269, and soon after his return, married Margaret,
Countess of Carrick in her own right, by whom he had five
sous and seven daughters. The eldest Bon of this marriage was
The Bkice.
the camps of Birrens and Brunswark, and the remalni
of a great military road, are still visible in this dis-
trict. The ruins of the large quadrangular fortress of
Auchincass, on Evan water, once the seat of the re-
gent, Randolph, cover an acre of ground, and still
convey an idea of the strength and extent of the
building. The castles of Hoddam and of Comlon-
gan are also in tolerable preservation. See Dum-
fries-shire, and Lochmaben.
ANNAT (The), or Cambus, a rivulet in the
parish of Kilmadock, Perthshire, which rises in a
hill in the north-west corner of the parish, and runs
into the Teith about a mile above Doune. It is re-
markable for numerous cascades.
ANNOCK (The), a small river in Ayrshire,
which rises in the parish of Stewarton, and falls into
the Irvine, a little above that town, after a course
of about 12 miles.
ANSTRUTHER-EASTER, a parish and royal
burgh, in the county and synod of Fife, and presby-
tery of St Andrews, on the coast of the frith of
Forth, between Kilrenny on the east, and Anstru-
ther- Wester — from which it is divided by a small
rivulet, called the Drill or Dreel burn, descending
from the high lands of Carnbee — on the west. The
three burghs form as it were one narrow town
stretching along the shore of the frith. Previous to
the year 1634, the town and barony of Anstruther
was in the parish of Kilrenny ; but though the church
was at Kilrenny, the minister resided at Anstruther,
and was styled the minister of that town. In the
above-mentioned year, the town of Easter Anstru-
ther was erected into a separate charge, and a church
built, which was thoroughly repaired in 1834. Sti-
pend ^£131 15s., from the tithes of fish, a grant of
part of the bishop's rents, and some money mortified
for that purpose, with a manse, and a glebe of the
value of £25. The manse is a singular old building.
Sir W. C. Anstruther, Bart., is the patron. There are
a Burgher, an Independent, and a Baptist congregation
in the parish The parish-school is attended by
about 120 children. Master's salary £5 6s. 8d., with
from £40 to £50 fees. In 1744, the population was
1,000; in 1801,969; in 1831, 1,007. .Houses 179.
Assessed property, £2,410. Anstruther-Easter was
erected into a royal burgh by James VI., in 1583 ;
but holds feu of the family of Anstruther. It is
governed by a council of 19, including 3 bailies, and
a treasurer. The revenue, in 1833, was £78; ex-
penditure £93 ; debt £485. The only taxes levied
are the government cess, and the customs and shore-
dues. There is a good harbour here, which, by an
outlay of £2,000, might be made capable of admitting
vessels drawing 16 feet water. In 1710, Anstruther,
which formerly was a creek of Kirkcaldy, was made
a port, and a custom-house established here. In
1753, a new quay was built; and, to defray the ex-
pense, an act of parliament was procured laying a tax
of two pennies Scots upon every pint of ale brewed
or sold in the burgh. In 1768, the tonnage belong-
ing to Anstruther-Easter was 80 tons ; in 1793, it
was 1,400 ; in 1837, it was only 964 tons. There is
some coasting-trade. The principal articles of ex-
port are grain and potatoes, and salted cod. A week-
ly corn-market is held on Saturday. The National
bank has a branch here. Anstruther-Easter and
Wester join with Crail, Cupar, Kilrenny, Pitten-
weem, and St Andrews, in returning a member to
parliament. The parliamentary and the municipal
constituency, in 1837-8, was 48. Anstruther-Easter
is the birth-place of the Rev. Dr Chalmers, and of
Professor Tennant of St Andrews, who has sung the
humours of ' Anster Fair' with excellent jocularity,
and a genius worthy of a higher subject.
ANSTRUTHER- WESTER, a small parish and
ANS
45
ANT
royal burgh in the county and synod of Fife, and
presbytery of St Andrews. The parish is of a very
irregular form. It contains about 600 acres of arable
land, and about 9 or 10 acres of common, on which
the burgesses have the privileges of pasturage and of
casting turf. It is bounded on the south by the frith of
Forth, along which it extends for about half-a-mile ;
on the east by Anstruther-Easter ; on the north by
Carnbee and Kilrenny ; and on the west by Pitten-
weem. In the rivulet which divides the two An-
struthers, it is said there was once a considerable
salmon-fishery, whence the arms of the town, bear-
ing three salmon crossed, are supposed to be derived.
The parish-church appears to be a very ancient build-
ing, from the remains of a large choir, and the Gothic
structure of the steeple. Sir W. C. Anstruther of
Anstruther, Bart., is patron of the parish, which was
formerly a vicarage belonging to the priory of Pitten-
weem. Stipend .£142 5s. 6d., with a manse, and a
glebe of the value of £22 10s. The valued rent of
the parish is .£1,185 Scots. The rent of land towards
the end of last century was from 21s. to 30s. per
acre ; in the Statistical report of 1838, it is stated that
the average rent per acre is 70s. Population in 1801,
296; inl831,430. Houses65; numberrentedat£10
and upwards, 24. Anstruther- Wester was created a
royal burgh by James VI., in 1587. The affairs of the
burgh are managed by a council of 15, including 3 bai-
lies, and a treasurer. The burgh-property consists of
the town's common, customs, and shore-dues, teinds of
the white-fish and herrings brought into the harbour,
and the iron-stone and sea- ware found on the shore.
Revenue, in 1832, £69. Expenditure £79. There
is no debt due by the burgh. The magistrates and
minister have the presentation of a bursar to the
United college of St Andrews. There is no burgh-
school, but the parish-school is situated within the
burgh, and is attended by about 130 children.
Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4id., with about £75
of fees. " The town of Anstruther, and many others
on this coast," says the Rev. James Forrester, in the
first Statistical account of the parish, in 1793,
" suffered much in the civil wars, in the reign of
Charles I., both by sea and land. They were zealous
covenanters, and there are few old inhabitants of the
parish who do not talk of some relations that went
to the battle of Kilsyth, in 1645, and were never
afterwards heard of. Anstruther shared the fate
of its neighbours, about the year 1670, by an
inundation of the sea, which destroyed or choked
up the harbour, washed away the bulwarks, and
rendered many of the houses unsafe to dwell in.
An inundation of a similar kind happened about the
end of last century, when about a third of the town
seems to have been destroyed. A long street, called
the Fore-street, was totally destroyed ; scarce a ves-
tige of it now remains. The rock on which the
town-house once stood, is covered by the sea every
spring-tide, and every tide the sea washes the street,
where the principal houses of the borough were
situated. The old people date the decay of the
towns on this coast to the Union with England. It is
evident that that event did undoubtedly give a great
shock to the trade of these towns. Their staple
commodities were malt, herrings, and cod. Before
the Union, there were 24 ships belonging to Easter
and Wester Anstruther, and 30 boats employed in
the fishery ; in 1764, there were only two ships, each
40 tons burden, and three fishing-boats belonging to
Anstruther-Easter, and one of 20 tons, and two
fishing-boats to Anstruther- Wester." Anstruther-
Wester is united to Anstruther-Easter by a good
bridge over the Dreel burn. At the west end of the
town, there is a large mound, called the Cbesterhill,
in the middle of which is a fine well South-east
from Anstruther- Wester, and 6 miles distant from *
it, in the mouth of the frith of Forth, is the isle of
May ; which, after the desolation of the abbey of
Pittenweem, was generally supposed to belong to
the parish of Anstruther- Wester, and in consequence
was annually visited by the minister of Anstruther-
Wester, while it was inhabited by 14 or 15 families.
But it is also claimed as belonging to Crail parish.
See Isle of May.
ANTONINUS'S WALL. In the year 78 of the
Christian era, Agricola took the command in Britain,
but he did not enter North Britain till the year 81.
The years 79 and 80 were spent in subduing the
tribes to the south of the Solway frith hitherto un-
conquered, and in the year 81 Agricola entered on
his fourth campaign by marching into North Britain
along the shores of the Solway frith, and overrunning
the mountainous region which extends from that
estuary to the friths of Clyde and Forth, the Glotta
and Bodotria of Tacitus. He finished this campaign
by raising a line of forts on the narrow isthmus be-
tween these friths, so that, as Tacitus observes, "the
enemies being removed as into another island" the
country to the south might be regarded as a quiet
province. The future operations of this general will
be found detailed in the articles Galloway, Car-
nock, Loch Ore, and Akdoch. Little is known
of the history of North Britain from the time of
Agricola's recal till the year 138, when Antoninus
Pius assumed the imperial purple. That good and
sagacious emperor was distinguished by the care
which he took in selecting the fittest officers for the
government of the Roman provinces ; and his choice,
for that of Britain, fell on Lollius Urbieus, a man
who united talents for peace with a genius in war.
After putting down a revolt of the Brigantes in
South Britain in the year 139, this able general
marched northward the following year to the friths,
between which he built a wall of earth on the line
of Agricola's forts. Capitulinus, who flourished
during the third century, is the first writer who no-
tices this wall, and states that it was built in the
reign of Antoninus Pius, but he gives no exact
description of it. The wall or rampart extended
from Caeridden on the frith of Forth to Uunglass
on the Clyde. Taking the length of this wall from
Old-Kilpatriek, on the Clyde, to Caeridden on the
Forth, its extent would be 39,726 Roman paces,
which agree exactly with the modern measure-
ment of 36 English miles, and 620 yards. This
rampart, which was of eartb, and rested on a stone
foundation, was upwards of 20 feet high, and 24 feet
thick. Along the whole extent of the wall there
was a vast ditch or pratentura on the outward or
north side, which was generally 20 feet deep, and
40 feet wide, and which, there is reason to believe,
might be filled with water when occasion required.
This ditch and rampart were strengthened at both
ends, and throughout its whole extent, by one and
twenty forts, three being at each extremity, and the
remainder placed between, at the distance of 3,554^-
yards, or something more than 2 English miles from
one another ; and it has been clearly ascertained that
these stations were designedly placed on the previous
fortifications of Agricola. Its necessary appendage,
a military road, ran behind the rampart from end to
end, for the use of the troops and for keeping up the
usual communication between the stations or forts.
From inscriptions on some of the foundation-stones,
which have been dug up, it appears that the second
legion, with detachments from the sixth and the twen-
tieth legions, and some auxiliaries, executed these
vast military works, equally creditable to their skill
and perseverance. Dungkiss near the western ex-
tremity, and Blackness near the eastern extremity of
ANW
46
APP
the rampart, afforded the Romans commodious har-
bours for their shipping, such as they enjoyed, while
they remained in North Britain, at Cramond. This
wall is called in the popular language of the country
Grime's Dyke, the etymology of which has confound-
ed antiquarians and puzzled philologists. In British
speech and in the Welsh language of the present day
the word grym signifies strength ; but whether the
appellation which the wall now receives is derived
from such a root seems doubtful. Certain it is, that
the absurd fiction of Fordun, Boyce, and Buchanan,
who derive the name from a supposititious person of
the name of Grime and his Scots having broke
through this wall, has long been exploded, with many
other fictions of the same authors.
ANWOTH, a parish in the county and presby-
tery of Kirkcudbright, and synod of Galloway. It
is about 6^ miles long, from north-east to south-
west; and 3^ broad. It is bounded on the north
and east by the parish of Girthon, from which it is
divided by the river Fleet; and on the west by the
parish of Kirkmabreck. The sea-shore, which
bounds the parish on the south, for about 2£ miles
from the mouth of the Fleet to the eonfines"of the
parish of Kirkmabreck, is generally flat and rocky,
though in one place it is bold and elevated. To-
wards the northern part of the parish, the surface
becomes broken and barren, rising into numerous
hills of small elevation. Along the banks of the
Fleet, and to some distance from it, there is a con-
siderable quantity of natural and planted wood.
The total area is about 9,000 acres, of which one-
third is arable. One head-stream of the river Fleet
issues from a small loch of the same name, in the
parish of Girthon; the other and more westerly
branch has its source in the parish of Kirkmabreck, be-
tween a very high hill, called Cairnsmuir, and another
to the north of it called Craig-Ronal. The Fleet is
navigable for small vessels as far as Gatehouse, which
is situated on its eastern bank, about 3 miles from
the mouth of its estuary. The most remarkable hill
in this parish is Cairnharrah, which is situated partly
in this parish, and partly in Kirkmabreck, It is
ilevated above the sea about 1,100 feet; and is the
highest ground in this part of the country, Cairns-
muir excepted. It commands an extensive view of
the adjacent country, the shire of Wigton, the Isle
of Man, a part of Cumberland, and even of the high
land on the coast of Ireland. Population, in 1801,
637 ; in 1831, 830, of whom about 40 were dissenters.
Houses 120. Assessed property .£4,748. About
450 of the inhabitants live in the country part of the
parish, and the rest in the village of Anwoth, which
is built on the Fleet, opposite to Gatehouse, and
being connected with it by a bridge is considered as
part of the same village. Minister's stipend £247
10s. 7d., with a manse, and a glebe of the value of
£10. Unappropriated teinds £41 18s. Id. Church
built in 1826; sittings 400. Patron, Sir David
Maxwell, Bart. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4id.,
with £20 fees. Average number of scholars "80.
There are two small private schools. There are two
old buildings in the parish, the tower of Rusco, and
castle of Cardoness. Both these fortalices stand on
the banks of the Fleet; the former about 2A miles
above where the river ceases to be navigable, and
the latter 1 mile below that point, on atongue ofland,
looking towards the bay at the mouth of the river.
On the top of a hill, about half-a-mile south-east of
the church, is one of those vitrified forts which have
so much excited the curiosity of modern antiquaries.
APPIN, an extensive district of Argyleshire, above
50 miles in length, and from 10 to 15 broad ; com-
prehending the Airds, the straith of Appin, Glen
Duror, Glen Creran, Kingerloch, and Glencoe ; ex-
tending along the eastern side of Loch Linnhe, and
belonging ecclesiastically to the parish of Lismore
and Appin. See Lismore. Appin is one of the
most interesting districts in the Highlands ; present-
ing a deeply indented and finely diversified coast
sprinkled with islands ; while the interior is inter-
sected with deep glens and rushing streams, and rich
in the most magnificent varieties of mountain and
lake scenery. Appin was the country of the Stuarts,
"the unconquered foes of the Campbell," in feudal
times. A fine ballad entitled ' The Stuarts o' Ap-
pin' appeared some years ago in Blackwood's Maga-
zine, of which we quote the opening stanza :
" I sing of a land that was famous of yore,
The land of Green Appin, the ward of the flood;
Where every grey cairn that broods over the shore,
Marks grave of the royal, the valiant, or good ;
The land where the strains of grey Ossiau were framed,
The land of fair Selma, and reign of Fingal,—
And late of a race, that with tears must be named,
The Noble Clan Stuart, the bravest of all.
Oh-hon, an Kei ! and the Stuarts of Appin!
The gallant, devoted, old Stuarts of Appin I
Their glory is o'er,
For the elan is no more,
Aud tile Sassenach sings ou the hills of green Appin."
APPLECROSS,* a very extensive parish in the
county of Ross, lying between Loch Torriden and
Loch Carron. Its outline is irregular, being fre-
quently intersected by arms of the sea, the principal
of which, besides the two lochs already mentioned,
are Loch Achrakin, Applecross bay, Loch Toskig,
and Loch Kishorn. In the centre of one of its most
populous districts are a few farms belonging eccle-
siastically to the palish of Loch Carron. The extent
of sea-coast, in a direct line, is upwards of 20 miles ;
but following the shore in all its curves and windings,
it cannot be under 90 miles. Though the coast is in
some places high and rocky, yet, in many parts, it is
flat and sandy ; and the general character of the
whole — as of most districts of old red sandstone for-
mation, which is the prevalent geological character of
the parish — is monotonous and dreary. The course
of the tides is all along from the north. The general
appearance of the parish is rocky and mountainous:
yet amidst these hills, covered only with wiid coarse
grasses and heath, and indescribably dreary to the
sight, occur valleys, both beautiful and fertile, but
in many instances almost inaccessible. When the
first Statistical account of this parish was written
towards the close of last century, it was stated that
there was neither public road nor bridge from one
extremity of it to the other ; and that the traveller
was guided by the season of the year, in determining
what course to take over the rugged hills, rapid
waters, and deep and marshy moors of this district.
This state of things is now greatly amended. A
good and direct road runs between Applecross and
Shieldag on Loch Torriden, a distance of 13 miles ;
and there are also good roads from the village of
Loch Carron, at the head of Loch Carron both to
Applecross, a distance of 20 miles, and to Shieldag,
a distance of 15. G razing-farms are numerous but
small. The number of acres under cultivation does
not exceed 2,000, while nearly 300 square miles are
unfit for cultivation. Black cattle is the great article
from which the farmer principally derives his emolu-
ment and the landlord his rent. Herring shoals occa-
* Applecross is a fanciful designation given to this parish by
the proprietor of the Comaraich estate, at the time of its erec-
tion into a separate charge. In commemoration of this event
five apple trees were planted cross ways in the proprietor's gar-
den ; and they have since been perpetuated by his successors.
The ancient and only name by which this parish is kuown in
the language of the country is Comrick, or Comaraich, a Gaelic
word signifying 'a place of protection ;' a designation implying
the immunity of the place in ancient times, this having been
the seat of a cloister, and, as such, an asylum for all who fled
to it for protection.
APP
47
ARA
sionally frequent the hays, creeks, and harhours, of
this district. The rivers, though small, are very
rapid, and abound with trout ; the stream of Firdon,
and the river of Applecross, contain salmon ; there are
salmon-fishings at Torriden and Balgie ; and fishing
is much pursued on the coasts of this parish. Kelp,
prior to the American war, was extensively manu-
factured here, and sold at £3 10s. the ton ; the price
afterwards fluctuated between £5 5s. and £4 15s.,
and there were about 50 tons annually brought to
market. This manufacture, however, no longer
exists. In the district of Kishorn there is a copper-
mine, which Williams, in his 'Mineral Kingdom,'
considered as equally rich with any in Great Britain.
On the south side of the bay of Applecross, close by
the shore, there is a lime-stone quarry of an excellent
quality. There are some natural woods of fir, birch,
and hazel, in different parts of the parish. The
ordinary fuel is peat. There are three proprietors :
viz. Mackenzie of Applecross, the principal heritor;
Mackenzie of Seaforth, and Sir F. Mackenzie of
Gairloch, Bart. " Every man," says the Statistical
reporter in 1 792, " is the architect of his own house ;
and though there be a few nominal shoemakers,
scarcely a boy of fifteen but makes his own brogues.
There are several boat-wrights and weavers; the
former are generally maintained by their employers,
and paid by the piece ; the latter make their demand
in money, but are paid in meal, at the conversion of
half-a-merk Scotch the peck. There are three
smiths — when no private stipulation takes place — for
the farm-work ; they are paid in meal, by an imme-
morial assessment on the different farms. Anciently
they had the head of every cow that was slaughtered
in the parish, — a privilege they still claim, but it is
rarely complied with." We should suppose this
claim is never even advanced now ; but it is a curious
relic of days less-acquainted with the marvellous pro-
perties of a circulating medium than our own. The
wages of domestic servants, for the year, at the last
mentioned period, were from £2 to £3 sterling, for
men ; and from 10s. to £1 sterling for women ; the
Statistical reporter of 1836 states, that they are
usually £8 for ploughmen, and from £2 10s. to £3
for female servants. The population of the parish,
in 1801, was 1,896; in 1831, 2,892. Houses 5*2.
Assessed property £3,050 The parish is in the
presbytery of Loch Carron, and synod of Glenelg. It
is divided into three districts, each of which is
separated from the others by a ridge of hills. In the
districts of Lochs and Tirdon, the minister officiates
once a quarter; and the minister of Shieldag offi-
ciates in the district of Kishorn once a month. The
parish-church stands in the district of Applecross ; it
was built in 1817; sittings 600. Stipend £158 6s. 5d.,
with a manse, and a small glebe. The patronage is in
the Crown. A government-church was erected at
Shieldag in 1827 : the parochial school is fixed at
Applecross. The schoolmaster's salary is £25, with
£4 10s. fees. There are also schools at Shieldag,
Torriden, Kishorn, and Badanvougie, each attended
by about 50 scholars. " There are trunks of trees
found at a considerable depth under ground, where
there is no vestige of any kind of wood remaining ;
many of them have visibly suffered by fire, which the
traditional history of the country reports to have been
occasioned by the Danes burning the forests. Close by
the parish-church, are the remains of an old religious
house, where the standard and soles of crucifixes are
still to be seen. It was richly endowed with landed
property, which tradition relates to have been con-
veyed, by the last popish missionary in the place —
known by the designation of the Red Priest of Apple,
cross — to his daughter." [Statistical Report, 1792.]
APPLEGARTH, or Applegirth, a parish in
the stewartry of Annandale, Dumfriesshire. The An-
nan divides it, on the west, from the parishes of Loch-
maben and Johnston ; on the north it is bounded by
Wamphray ; on the north-east and east by Hutton ;
and on the south by Dryfesdale parish. Its greatest
length, from south to north, is about 6 miles ; its
greatest breadth, from west to east, in the southern
part of the parish, is about 5 miles. The distance
of the kirk-town from Dumfries is about 11, and
from Annan about 12 miles. The great turnpike
road from Carlisle to Glasgow and Edinburgh passes
through the parish, from south to north. Dr. Singer
estimates the superficial area of this parish at 17i
square miles, or 11,500 acres ; of which about 400 are
under wood, and 7,400 are cultivated. The soil in
this parisfi, in general, is good, especially upon the
banks of the Annan and the Dryfe. The highest ele-
vation in the parish is Dinwoodie hill, 736 teet above
sea-level. The manse of Applegarth, in the south-
west extremity of the parish, on the east bank of the
Annan, is 180 feet above sea-level. [Statistical re-
port, 1834. ] There are six heritors in the parish.
The valued rent is 6,725 merks ; the real rent was
estimated, at the end of last century, at between
£2,800 and £3,000 sterling. Population, in 1801,
795 ; in 1831, 999. Houses 151. Assessed property
£8,595. — This parish is in the synod of Dumfries,
and presbytery of Lochmaben. Stipend £250 5s.,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £10 10s. Un-
appropriated teinds £244. The manse is an old
house, built upwards of 60 years ago. The church
was built in 1761. It is generally supposed that
there have been two old parishes successively annex-
ed to Applegarth, viz. Sibbaldbie and Dinwoodie, or
Dinwiddie. It is not certain, however, whether
Dinwoodie was ever a distinct parish or not ; it rather
appears to have been a chapelry to Applegarth.
Sibbaldbie was a distinct parish, and was annexed in
1609. There are still some remains of its church.
Sir William Jardine, Bart., and Johnstone of Annan-
dale, are the patrons. There are two parochial
schools, attended by abou1 100 children. Chalmers,
in his Caledonia, informs us that on the 7th July,
1300, Edward I., who was then at Applegarth, on
his way to the siege of Caerlaverock, made an obla-
tion at the altars of St. Nicholas and Thomas h
Becket, in Applegarth church. There are no au-
thentic traces of this church now visible. There is
a noble ash-tree in the church-yard of Applegarth,
upwards of 14 feet in circumference near the root.
ARASAIG, or Arisaig, a district in the parish
of Ardnamurchan, on the western coast of Inverness-
shire, and the name especially of a promontory in the
district, lying between the two inlets of the sea,
Lochnanuagh on the south, and Lochnagaul on the
north, immediately opposite the southern extremity
of the isle of Eig, from which it is distant 6i miles.
There is an excellent and beautiful road from the
village of Arasaig, on the northern shore of Lochna-
gaul, to Fort William, passing the head of Loch
Aylort, and Loch Shiel, and running along the nor-
thern shore of Loch Eil, a total distance of 40 miles.
There is a ferry from Arasaig to Skye, which how-
ever is now little used, that of Kyle Rhea being
generally preferred. There is a Roman Catholic
chapel at the village of Arasaig.
ARAY (The), or Ary, in Gaelic Aoreidh, a
small but beautiful stream flowing into Loch Fyne,
between the town of Inverary and the neighbour
ing hill of Dunyqueaich. It rises near Loch Awe,
and flows south. Its course is about 9 miles in
length, over a rocky bed, and frequently under
rugged cliffs, or between banks finely wooded with
oak and birch. The road from Inverary to Oban
skirts its course, throughout its whole length; and
ARB
48
ARB
the road around the head of Loch Fyne to Cairn-
dow is carried over the stream, at its confluence with
the loch, by a bridge. The first striking scene upon
this stream, tracing its course upwards, is the ro-
mantic fall of Carlonan linn, which occurs at a point
where the river is shut in by thick woods and rocky
banks. About 2^ miles from Inverary is another
considerable fall ;"and half-a-mile farther is the fine-
est cascade in the river, the fall of Lenach-Gluthin,
where the stream rushes, " with many a shock,"
over a broken and precipitous rock. It is supposed
that the Aray takes its name from these falls, Aoreidh,
in Gaelic, signifying ' unsmooth.' Skrine calls it ' the
furious Aray.' As we ascend the glen of the Aray,
the stream " changes temper" and dwindles into a
burn flowing between bare mountain-ridges. Gilpin,
who passed through Glen Aray in 1776, was greatly
delighted with the forest-scenery here.
ARBIRLOT, in old writings, Aberelliot, a
parish in the county of Forfar, presbytery of Ar-
broath, and synod of Angus and Mearns. It is about
4 miles in length, and 3 in breadth ; and is bounded
on the north by the parishes of St Vigeans and Car-
mylie ; on the east by Arbroath ; on the south by
the sea ; and on the west by Panbride parish.
The extent of sea-coast is about 3 miles, for the
most part flat and sandy. The greater part of
this parish is gently undulated ; yet the hills are
neither very high nor rocky, but are in general
green, and capable of cultivation. Estimating the
superficial area of the parish at 5,000 acres, about
one-fifth is uncultivated, and the average rent of
the cultivated land is 18s. per acre. The principal
crops raised in this parish are oats and barley ; but a
considerable quantity of wheat is also grown. In
the year 1790, there were 97 acres of ground within
the bounds of this parish sown with lintseed, which
in general succeeded well. This branch of farming
does not now attract much attention. The yearly
wages of men-servants, in the different branches of
husbandry, in the year 1793, were from £7 to £8;
and of women-servants, from £3 to £4 ; the wages
of a day-labourer were 6d. when the employer fur-
nished him with provisions; and when he victualled
himself, from Is. to 15d. Farm-servants now obtain
about -£'20 per annum ; day-labourers Is. 6d. per
day ; and female-labourers 8d. The return to the
inquiry made by Dr. Webster, in 1755, respecting the
population of this parish, was 865. In 1801, the
population was returned at 945 ; and in 1831, at
1,026. Houses 215. Assessed property £1,092.
The water of Elliot, which runs through this parish,
from north to south, has its source in the parish of
Carmylie, about 3 miles from the town of Arbirlot. It
was once noted for trouts of a peculiar relish. Kelly
castle, which is built upon a rock on the side of this
Etream, is seen to great advantage on the road be-
twixt Arbroath and Arbirlot. Neither the period
when the castle of Kelly was built, nor its pro-
prietors, through a long series of ages, can now be
traced; tradition, however, relates that one Ouch-
terlony, laird of Kelley, was active in demolishing
the abbey at Aberbrothock. The modern house of
Kelley, in the vicinity of the castle, was razed about
seven years ago. The whole parish is the property
of Earl Panmure. The valued rent is £4,266 13s.
4d. Scotch : the real rent is about £15,000 — The
stipend of the parish-minister is £184 4s. 5d., with
the addition of a manse, a garden, and a glebe of 4
acres. The Crown is patron. The kirk was rebuilt
in 1832 ; sittings 639. There are only a few Se-
ceders in the parish. The parochial schoolmaster
has a salary of £34 4s., with £14 fees. In 1628, 8
bolls of meal were mortified by Alexander Irvine of
Drum, then proprietor of Kelly, in favour of the ,
schoolmaster of Arbirlot. There are two private
schools. — About half-a-mile from Arbirlot is a mineral
spring, called Wormy-hills well. " It is deservedly
esteemed," says the Statistical reporter of 1791, "on
account of its medicinal virtue ; and being within
200 yards of the sea, persons attending it have the
benefit of sea-bathing, which, of late years, has been
much recommended by our best physicians." It is
reported that a road was made through part of this
parish by Hector Boethius, the Scottish historian,
which still bears his name, though somewhat cor-
rupted, in the name Heckenbois-path. The turnpike
road from Arbroath to Dundee runs 4 miles through
this parish.
ARBROATH, or Aberbrothwick, a partly land-
ward, partly town-parish, in the county of Angus,
being an erection out of the parish of St. Vigeans,
of the town and royalty of Arbroath into a separate
parish about the year 1560. In 1836, the Abbey
parish of Arbroath was disjoined quoad sacra from
that of Arbroath. This new parish is almost wholly
urban. The old parish is bounded on the north by St.
Vigeans parish ; on the east by the German ocean ; on
the south and west by Arbirlot parish. The extent
of sea-coast is about 1^ mile ; the superficial area is
1,820 English acres. Average rent of land 50s. per
acre. A peculiar species of grey micaceous sandstone,
commonly known by the name of the Arbroath flag,
is quarried here. Around the town the soil is rich
and fertile; but towards the north-west there is a
considerable extent of moor ground, the property of
the community, which is now, however, covered with
thriving fir-plantations. The Brothock, or Broth-
wick, a small stream rising on the north-west boundary
of St. Vigeans parish, flo wing south-east through that
parish, and the town of Arbroath, and falling into the
German ocean after a course of about 6 miles, gives
name to the parish. The water-power furnished by
this stream has led to the establishment of numerous
manufactures for weaving, spinning, flax-dressing,
and bleaching. About half-a-mile westward of the
town is a strong chalybeate spring. Population, in
1801, 4,943 ; in 1831, 6,943.— The parish of Arbroath
is in the presbytery of Arbroath and synod of Angus
and Mearns. Patron, since 1715, the Crown. Min-
ister's stipend £219 12s. 6d., with an allowance of £4
8s. lid. for manse and glebe. Unappropriated teinds
£125 12s. lid. Church enlarged in 1764 ; sittings
1,390. The minister has an assistant who receives
a salary of £75 — The United Secession congregation
was established in 1782. Church built in 1791, and
enlarged in 1824; sittings 714. Minister's stipend
£105, with manse and garden The Independent
congregation was established about the vear 1,800
church built in 1816 ; sittings 500 The Baptist
congregation was established in 1808; meets in the
Mechanics reading-room. — An Episcopalian congre-
gation has long existed here; chapel built in 1791 ;
sittings 390; minister's stipend £122, with a garden
and £11 for a house.
The parish of Abbey, erected under the authority
of the General Assembly in February, 1836, has a
population of about 1,960. The church was built in
1796-7, and originally formed a chapel-of-ease with-
in the town of Arbroath; sittings 1,281; minister's
stipend £100. — The Relief congregation in this
parish, formerly connected with the Relief Metho-
dists, has a place of worship, built in 1826 ; sittings
572; stipend £120. — The United Secession congre-
gation in this district of the town of Arbroath was
formed in 1815; church erected in 1812; sittings
630. — There is a Scottish Independent congregation,
established about 50 years ago ; and a Berean con-
gregation, originally formed in 1780.
The royal borough of Arbroath is chiefly situated
ARBROATH.
49
in the above parish, hut a part extends into that of
St. Vigeans. It is 18 miles east by north of Dundee,
12 west bv south of Montrose, 15 south-east of For
lordship, in favour of James, Marquis of Hamilton,
son to the former, upon the 5th May, 1608. It after-
wards belonged to the Earl of Dysart, from whom
far, 13J south of Brechin, and 56 north-north-east of Patrick Maule of Panmure, gentleman of the bed-
Edinburgh. It is on the estuary of the Brothock, in a ! chamber to King James the Sixth, purchased it with
small plain surrounded on the west, north, and east j the right of patronage of all the parishes thereto
sides by eminences in the form of an amphitheatre, j belonging, thirty-four in number. The abbots of
which command an extensive prospect of the friths j this place had several special privileges. They were
of Tay and Forth, the Lothian hills, and the elevated | exempted from assisting at the yearly synods ; and
parts of Fifeshire. The town consists of one street,
nearly half-a-mile in length, running north and south
from the sea, and another on the west side of smaller
extent. Both these are intersected by other cross
streets, and are in general well-built, though without
regularity. To the eastward of the town, and locally
in the parish of St. Vigeans, there are two handsome
streets; on the west side of the Brothock there are
also several neat streets, forming a suburb of con-
siderable size. The town was lighted with gas in
1826. The town-house, containing a town-hall,
town-clerk's office, register-rooms, &c, is a hand-
some edifice, erected in 1806. The academy was
built in 1821 at a cost of £1.600. In 1797 a public
library was established, which now contains a col-
lection amounting to above 7,000 volumes. The har-
bour is small, but can be taken by vessels in a storm,
when they cannot enter any ofthe neighbouring ports.
It is entirely artificial, but well-sheltered from the
sea by a long pier erected in 1788; the inner harbour
is secured by wooden gates. It admits vessels of
2C0 tons at spring-tides ; but, at ordinary tides, only-
vessels of 100 tons can enter. It is defended by a
battery erected in 17S3. There is a signal tower
here which communicates with the Bell-rock light-
house, at the distance of 12 miles. [See article
Beli^Rock.] The port of Arbroath is of great
antiquity ; but its situation was, in ancient times,
more to the eastward than at present. The site of
the ancient harbour is still named the Old Shore-
head ; and an agreement is extant between the abbot
and burghers, in 1194, concerning the making of the
harbour. Both parties were bound to contribute
their proportion ; but the largest fell to the share of
the abbot, for which he was to receive an annual tax
payable out of the borough-roods.
The glory of the place was its abbey, the venerable
ruins of which are still much admired by travellers.
It was founded about 1178 by William I., and dedi-
cated to the memory of Thomas-a-Becket. Its
founder was interred within it; but there are now no
authentic remains of his tomb. It is highly probable,
however, that it must have been near the great altar,
in a spot now walled in as a private burial-place.
The monastery of Arbroath was one of the richest
in the whole island, and its abbots were frequently
the first churchmen of the kingdom. Cardinal
Beaton was the last abbot of this establishment, at
the same time that he was archbishop of St. Andrews.
The monks were of the Tyronensian order, and
were first brought from Kelso. This monastery
formerly enjoyed great privileges. A charter is still
extant from John of England, under the great seal of
that kingdom, by which the monastery and citizens
of Aberbrothock are exempted " a teloniis et con-
suetudine," in every part of England, except London
and Oxford. It has also been of considerable note
in the Scottish history, particularly as the seat of
that parliament, during the reign of King Robert
Bruce, in which the celebrated manifesto was ad-
dressed to the pope. After the death of Beaton,
the abbey felt the destructive rage of the reformers.
The last commendatory abbot of Aberbrothock was
John Hamilton, second son to the duke of Chatel-
herault, who was afterwards created Marquis of
Hamilton. This abbey was erected into a temporal
I.
Pope Pius II. declared his resolution, in 1461, to
excommunicate all those who would trouble them
upon that head. Pope Bennet, by his bull, dated at
Avignon, grants to John, Abbot of Arbroath, the
privilege of wearing a mitre and other pontifical or-
naments. The ruins of the abbey are " most deli-
riously situated," and strikingly picturesque. The
church was a most magnificent fabric, nearly of the
same dimensions as the cathedral of St. Andrews, and
of the most exquisite workmanship. Pennant, who
visited Arbroath in 1772, thus describes the ruins:
"The abbey was once inclosed with a strong and lofty
wall which surrounded a very considerable tract:
on the south-west corner is a tower, at present the
steeple of the parish-church; at the south-east corner
was another tower, with a gate beneath, called the
Darn-gate, which, from the word darn, or private,
appears to have been the retired way to the abbey.
■ The magnificent church stands on the north side of the
square, and was built in the form of a cross : on the
side are three rows of false arches, one above the
other, which have a fine effect, and above them are
very high windows, with a circular one above. In
April last a part adjoining to the west end fell sudden-
ly down, and destroyed much of the beauty of the
place. The length of the whole church is about 275
feet; the breadth of the body and side-aisles, from
wall to wall, 67 ; the length of the transept 165 feet,
the breadth 27. It seems as if there had been three
towers ; one in the centre, and two others on each
side of the west end, part of which still remains.
On the south side, adjoining the church, are the ruins
of the chapter-house; the lower part, which is vaulted,
is a spacious room well lighted with Gothic windows.
Above is another good apartment. The great gate
to the abbey fronts the north : above the arch had
been a large gallery, with a window at each end.
At the north-west corner of the monastery stand
the walls of the regality prison, of great strength
and thickness : within are two vaults, and over them
some light apartments. The prison did belong to the
convent, which resigned this part of its jurisdiction
to a layman, whom the religious elected to judge in
criminal affairs. The family of Airly had this office
before the Reformation, and continued possessed of
it till the year 1747, when it was sold and vested in
the Crown with the other heritable jurisdictions. In
the year 1445, the election of this officer proved
fatal to the chieftains of two noble families." The
convent had that year chosen Alexander Lindsay,
eldest son of the Earl of Crawford, and commonly
known by the appellation of The Tiger, or Earl
Beardy., to be the baillie, or cbief-justiciar of their
regality ; but he proved so expensive by his number
of followers and high way of living, that they were
obliged to remove him, and appoint in his place
Alexander Ogilvie of Innerquharity, nephew to John
Ogilvie of Airly, who had an hereditary claim to the
place. This occasioned a cruel feud between the
families ; each assembled their vassals ; and " there
can be little doubt," says Mr Fraser Tytler, " that
the Ogilvies must have sunk under this threatened
attack, but accident gave them a powerful ally in
Sir Alexander Seton of Gordon, afterwards Earl of
Huntly, who, as he returned from court, happened
to lodge for the night at the castle of Ogilvy, at the
50
ARBROATH.
very moment when this baron was mustering his
forces against the meditated assault of Crawford.
Seton, although in no way personally interested in
the quarrel, found himself, it is said, compelled to
assist the Ogilvies, by a rude but ancient custom,
which bound the guest to take common part with
his host in all dangers which might occur so long as
the food eaten under his roof remained in his stomach.
With the small train of attendants and friends who
accompanied him, he instantly joined the forces of
Innerquharity, and proceeding to the town of Ar-
broath, found the opposite party drawn up in great
strength on the outside of the gates. The families
thus opposed in mortal defiance to each other, could
number amongst tbeir adherents many of the bravest
and most opulent gentlemen in the country ; and
the two armies thus composed exhibited a splendid
appearance of armed knights, barbed horses, and em-
broidered banners. As the two lines, however, ap-
proached each other, and spears were placing in the
rest, the Earl of Crawford, who had received infor-
mation of the intended combat, being anxious to
avert it, suddenly appeared on the field, and galloping
up between the two armies, was accidentally slain
by a soldier, who was enraged at his interference,
and ignorant of his rank. The event naturally in-
creased the bitterness of hostility, and the Crawfords,
who were assisted by a large party of the vassals of
Douglas, infuriated at the loss of their chief, at-
tacked the Ogilvies with a desperation which soon
broke their ranks, and reduced them to irreclaimable
disorder. Such, however, was the gallantry of their
resistance, that they were almost entirely cut to
pieces; and five hundred men, including many noble
barons in Forfar and Angus, were left dead upon the
field. Seton himself had nearly paid with his life
the penalty of his adherence to a barbarous custom ;
and John Forbes of Pitsligo, one of his followers,
was slain ; nor was the loss which the Ogilvies sus-
tained in the field their worst misfortune ; for Lind-
say, with his characteristic ferocity, and protected by
the authority of Douglas, let loose his army upon
their estates, and the flames of their castles, the
slaughter of their vassals, the plunder of their pro-
perty, and the captivity of their wives and children,
instructed the remotest adherents of the justiciar
of Arbroath, how terrible was the vengeance which
they had provoked." The revenues of this abbey
at the Reformation were as follow : money £2,553
14s. ; wheat 30 ch. 3 bolls, 3 fir. 2 pecks ; bear
143 ch. 9 bolls, 2 pecks; meal 196 ch. 9 bolls, 2
fir.; oats 27 ch. 11 bolls; salmon 37 bar. and 2
bar. grilses : omitted capons, poultry, grassums,
dawikis, and all other services and duties: to this
is also to be added the teinds of the kirks of Aber-
nethy, Tannadice, and Monifieth. While some work-
men were employed in 1835, in clearing out the rub-
bish from the ruins of the abbey, they came upon a
stone coffin containing the skeleton of a female which
had been carefully enveloped in a covering of leather.
This must have been some lady of rank in her day,
and the good folks set it down as the remains of the
Queen of William the Lion, who, as well as her hus-
band, the founder of the abbey, was interred here.
The town shared the fate of the abbey, till about
1736, when its commerce began to revive. At that
time a few gentlemen of property engaged in the
manufacture here of osnaburghs and brown linens,
which succeeded well, and is still the principal branch
of manufacture. There are about 2,000 hand-looms
employed on linen. Canvass weavers earn from8s. 6d.
tolls, per week. The principal market for thesegoods
ieEngland. In 1806, there were stamped 1,484,425J
yards of cloth, valued at £83,454 15s. 9d. sterling.
There are now 16 mills for spinning yarn in the town
and suburbs. There were in 1791 about 50 vessels
belonging to the place, each from 60 to 160 tons
burden, employed in the Baltic and coasting-trade,
making 4,000 tons register ; in 1837 there were 77
vessels registering 6,700 tons. The principal im-
ports are bones, hides, flax, and timber There is a
railway from this port to the town of Forfar. Its
length is 15:|- miles, with a rise of about 220 feet.
Expense £70.000. The total number of passengers
who had travelled on the Arbroath and Forfar rail-
way since its opening, to the 10th August, 1839, was
60,763, — the weekly average being 1,929. The total
amount of money received for passengers, goods,
and parcels, in the same period, was £4,563 6s. 2^d,
— making a weekly average of £144 17s. 4d. The
population of the eight parishes through which the
railway passes, including the towns of Arbroath and
Forfar, is 26,833 ; so that the number of passengers
in thirty-one and a-balf weeks is more than double
the number of inhabitants in these eight parishes.
There is also a railway betwixt Arbroath and Dun-
dee, 16J miles in length Arbroath is undoubtedly
a royalty of very ancient erection. It was probably
erected into a royal borough by William the Lion,
about the year 1186; but this cannot exactly be as-
certained owing to the loss of the original charter,
which was taken by force out of the abbey — where
it was lodged in the time of the civil wars, during
the minority of James VI by George, Bishop of
Moray. It was, however, confirmed in its privileges
by a charter of novodamus from James VI. in 1599.
It was formerly governed by a provost, 2 bailies, a
treasurer, and 15 counsellors, and has 7 incorporated
trades. The magistrates and council are now elected
according to the provisions of 3° and 4° William IV.
The council consists of 17 members. The boundary
of the royalty is somewhat intricate. In 1834 about
6,660 of the population were within the royalty,
and 4,587 inhabited houses in streets without the
royalty. The property of the town, consisting o(
common lands, houses, mills, harbour, feu-duties,
entries, customs, and imposts, was recently valued at
£35,874 ; but the parliamentary commissioners were
of opinion that this was too high. The revenue in
1788 was £864; in 18.32, £2,922 ; the average an-
nual expenditure for 20 years preceding 1832, had
been £2,940; and the debt was £17,967. The
revenue in 1837-8, was £3,859. It unites with the
boroughs of Forfar, Montrose, Inverbervie, and Bre-
chin, in sending a representative to parliament. The
parliamentary constituency, in 1837, was 452; the
municipal, 245. In 1811, the population, including
that part of the town situated in the parish ot Si.
Vigeans, \vas9,000; in 1831, 13,795; in 1841, 14,576.
In 1821, the number of houses within burgh was
1,739; in 1831, 2,360. Assessed property, in 1815,
£22,858. The government cess, levied in 1832, was
£105 2s. 6d. Its fairs are on the 31st January, 3d
Wednesday of June, and 18th July.
During the war, in 1781, this coast was annoyed
by a French privateer, named the Fearnought of
Dunkirk, commanded by one Fall. On the evening
of the 23d of May, he came to anchor in the bay of
Arbroath, and fired a few shot into the town; after
which he sent a flag of truce on shore, with the
following letter :
" At sea, Map twenty-third.
*' Gentlemen, I send these two words to inform you, that I
will have you to faring to the French colour, in less than a
quarter of an hour, or I set the town on tire directly ; such is
the order of my master the king of France 1 am sent hy. Send
directly the mair and chiefs of the town to make some agree-
ment with roe, or I'll make my duty. It is the will of yours.
" To Monsieurs Mair of the town called y
Arbrought, or in his absence, to the >
chief man after him, in Scotland." J
The worthy magistrates, with a view to gain time
ARB
51
ARB
to arm the inhabitants, and send expresses for mili-
tary aid in the true spirit of subtle diplomacy, gave
an evasive answer to Monsieur Fall's letter, remind-
ing him that he had mentioned no terms of ransom,
and begging he would do no injury to the town till he
should hear from them again. Upon this Fall wrote
a second letter to them in the following terms :
** At sea, eight o'clock in the afternoon.
" Gentlemen, I received just nowyoux answer, by which you
say I ask no terms. I thought it was useless, since I asked
you to come aboard for agreement. But here are my terms ; I
will have £;i0,0nU sterling at least, and 6 of the chiefs men of
the town for otage. Be speedy, or I shoot your town away
directly, and I set fire to it. I am, gentlemen, your servant. I
sent some of my crew to you ; but if some harm happens to
them, you'll be sure will hang up the main-yard all the preseri-
ers we have aboard.
"To Moosieurs the chiefs men of 7
Arbrought in Scotland." J
The magistrates having now got some of the in-
habitants armed, and their courage further supported
by the arrival of some military from Montrose, set
Fall at defiance, and " ordered him to do his worst,
for they would not give him a farthing." Where-
upon, says the worthy historian of this memorable
transaction in the annals of Arbroath, terribly en-
raged, and no doubt greatly disappointed, he began
a heavy fire upon the town, and continued it for a
long time ; but happily it (lid no harm, except knock-
ing down some chimney-tops, and burning the fingers
of those who took up his balls, which were heated.
On the 24th he sent a third letter on shore, by some
of our own people, whom he had captured at sea.
It run thus :
" At sea, May ZUh.
" Gentlemen, See whether you will come to some terms with
me, or I come in presently with my cutter into the arbour,
and I will cast dowu the town all over. Make haste, because
I have no time to spare. I give you a quarter of an hour for
your decision, and alter I'll make my duty. I think it would
be better for you, Gentlemen, to come some you aboard present-
ly, to settle the affairs of your town. You'll sure no to be
hurt. I give you my parole of honor. I am your," &c.
To this letter the magistrates sent a verbal reply
informing Monsieur Fall that they would be glad to
see him on shore, and, at the same time, they hoisted
a flag of defiance on the Ballast-hill. Finding all his
threats in vain, alter firing a few ineffectual shot, the
Frenchman weighed anchor, sailed in pursuit of some
sloops which had appeared in the offing, and did not
return. To prevent the recurrence of insults of this
kind, a battery was soon after erected by subscrip-
tion, between the harbour and the sea, on the Ballast-
hill, mounting 6 twelve-pounders, and having a com-
plete command of the bay, " so that," adds our an-
nalist with most excusable triumph, " now no Fall,
with his Fearnought, dare insult Arbroath with
impunity."
ARBUTHNOT,* a parish in the south-east part
of the county of Kincardine. It is nearly of a trian-
gular form, with the exception of a small district
on the south-west side, which forms a projection
southward of the water of Bervie, which, except at
this point, divides it from the parishes of Bervie and
* The name was anciently written Aberbuthenoth, or Aber-
boiheunthe, as appears from old writings still extant; but
whence it could be derived, says the writer of the first Statis-
tical report, is " uncertain, as there is no river or rivulet whose
influx within its bounds d.uld have occasioned it, if we except
the Folhy or Forthy which (alls into the Bervy, on the western
boundary of the parish ; but that rivulet has borne iis present
name above 6IJ0 years in the bounding charters of some neigh-
bouring estates. Perhaps the river Bervy, of old, may have
borne anotner name, which occasioned the name of Aberbmhe-
lioth, by its influx into the sea. which is about a quarter of a
mile below the extremity of ibis parish." 'Hie Statistical re-
porter, in I83S, suggests that the name may signify 'The con.
fluence of the water below the Baron's hnu-e ;' polk, or hothe.
nu, signifying a dwelling, a baronial residence; and nttfi, a
stream that descends or is lower than some other relative ob-
ject : a description answering to the site of the ancient family
seat of Arbuthnot in this parish.
Garvock. Upon the west it is bounded by the
parishes of Fordoun and Glenbervie, or the great
hollow of the Mearns, the Bervie and the Forthy
forming the dividing line on this side; and on the
north-east and east it is bounded by the parishes of
Dunottar and Kinneff. The surface presents two
rising grounds or ridges, with hollows or valleys be-
twixt them and the boundaries of the parish on each
side, where the ground again rises to still greater
height, but in no quarter does the rise much exceed
600 feet. The narrow valley in which the Bervie runs
is highly picturesque and beautiful, containing the
mansions of Arbuthnot and Allardyce, with the
church situated between them. Within this parish
there are several freestone quarries of excellent
quality. In one spot there is a trap-rock full of
pebbles, with some green jasper of considerable
beauty ; on the south side of the Bervie, nearly
opposite the church, a vein of manganese occurs.
No coal nor lime-stone have been discovered; but
some chalybeate springs indicate the presence of
iron. The proprietors are five in number. By a
map of the county, executed in 1774, it appears that
there are in this parish 7,785 Scotch, or 9,893 Eng-
lish acres, of which about two- thirds are cultivated ;
and about 300 acres are under wood. The Statis-
tical reporter, in 1838, states that the average rent
of the arable lands is only 18s. per acre; and that
the real rental is about £6, "200. The ordinary wages
of a farm-servant, or ploughman, was, in 1796, from
.£8 to £10 per annum ; they now receive from £11
to £13. The wages of female farm-servants was,
in 1796, from £3 10s. to £4; they are now from
£4 to £5 10s. Tradesmen's wages, such as masons
and carpenters, was, at the former date, Is. 6d. or
Is. 8(1. per day; they now receive 2s. Population,
in 1801, 942; in 1831, 944. Houses 187. Assessed
property, in 1815, £5,772. — This parish is in the
presbytery of Fordoun, and synod of Angus and
Mearns. Viscount Arbuthnot is patron. Minister's
stipend £225 0s. 9d. ; with a manse, and a glebe of
the annual value of £9. The church, which is on
the northern bank of the Bervie, about 2 miles
north-east of the town of Bervie, is a very ancient
fabric, but in good repair; sittings 440. Adjoining
to the church is an aisle of beautiful workmanship,
which was built by Alexander Arbuthnot, designed,
in the appendix to Spottiswood's History, brother
to the baron of Arbuthnot, and parson of Arbuthnot
and Logie-Buchan. He was elected the first Prc-
testant principal of King's college, Aberdeen, in 1569.
The lower part of this aisle was intended and has
been used as a burial-place for the family of Arbuth-
not. In the upper part was a well-finished apart,
ment filled with books chiefly in divinity, bequeathed
by the Rev. John Sibbald, one of the ministers of
Arbuthnot, for the use of his successors, but which
have all disappeared The schoolmaster's salary is
£34 4s. 4id., with about £10 fees; pupils average
40. There are three small private schools in the
parish The family of Sibbalds of Kair, one of the
most ancient in the county, possessed very extensive
property here. Among the last of this family was
Dr. David Sibbald, who having been preceptor to
the duke of Gloucester, son to Charles I., suffered
much on account of his loyalty in the civil wars,
was imprisoned in London, and had his estate for-
feited. He lived, however, to witness the restora-
tion of Charles II., and died in his o«n house of
Kair, in 1661. The celebrated Dr. Arbuthnot, phy-
sician to Queen Anne, had his birth and early educa-
tion in this parish. He was son to Alexander
Arbuthnot minister here, who was deprived for
nonconformity in the year 16S9. Dr. Arbuthnot
received the first part of his education at the parish-
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52
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school of Arbuthnot, whence he and his elder bro-
ther Robert, afterwards a banker at Paris, removed
to Marischal college of Aberdeen, about the year
1680. This parish gives the title of viscount to the
ancient family of Arbuthnot. The principal mansions
in the parish are the modern house of Kair in the
south-west corner of the parish ; Arbuthnot house
about 2 miles further down the course of the Bervie ;
and Allardyce house, near the church.
ARCHAIG (Loch), a beautiful sheet of water
in the parish of Kilmallie, Inverness-shire, about 16
or 17 miles in length, and from 1 to \& in breadth.
It is only about 2 miles distant from the south-west
extremity of Loch-Lochy, and about 10 miles from
the Neptune inn at the western end of the Caledo-
nian canal. This loch presents one of those many
spots of surpassing beauty which are so numerous
in Scotland, and yet so little known : hundreds of
tourists pass within a very short distance of this
loch every season without one paying it a visit ; and if
the masters of the steam-boats which ply on the canal
are aware of its existence at all, they are utterly
ignorant of its picturesque and romantic beauty.
Even Macculloch, indefatigable as he was in his re-
searches, omitted visiting this enchanting spot. " It
is said," he tells us, " that Loch-Arkeg is a pictur-
esque lake, though unknown ; which seems probable
from the forms of the hills, and the nature of the
country. But on this I must confess ignorance, and
plead misfortune, not guilt ; the flight of what never
ceases any where to fly — time ; and the fall of what
seldom ceases here to fall — rain." The opening of
the glen of Archaig is divided by a ridge of hills into
two valleys of unequal breadth. This ridge com-
mences near the farm of Clunes, rising in little round
knolls crowned with wood, which gradually increase
in height as they penetrate the glen, till tbey termi-
nate abruptly in a lofty wooded precipice, the base
of which is washed by the waters of the lake. In
the southern — which is the broadest of these divi-
sions— are situated the pleasure-grounds and house
of Achnacary, the family-mansion of Cameron of
Lochiel. Through the other, which is called Mil-
dubh, or ' the dark mile,' there is a road to the shores
of the lake. The lake may be approached by either
of these openings, but the scenery of the latter is the
most picturesque and romantic. Indeed, we know
of hardly any place which can be put in competition
with the Mil-dubh. It is a narrow, wooded pass,
bounded on the one hand by the ridge already men-
tioned, which separates it from Achnacary ; and on
the other by a lofty barrier of almost perpendicular
rocks. Great masses of these immense rocks have
fallen down in various places, and now form small
hills at the base of the precipices from which they
have been detached. The whole pass is covered
with trees — chiefly pine and birch — from its very
bottom to the top of the mountains on both sides.
Even the perpendicular barrier of rock on the north
is covered with wood to the summit. Every inter-
stice or opening in the rock seems to give root to a
tree ; and so much is this the case, that in many
places the rocks are completely hid by the leaty
screen which covers and ornaments them ; yet a
freat deal of the wood which once occupied this pass
as been cut down, and it has consequently lost
something of the dark look which it formerly had,
and which gave rise to its name. Indeed, it may be
questioned whether the effect has not been increased
by removing part of the wood. The numerous par-
tial and varied lights which have thus been let in
upon the scene, the exposure of the rocks which has
been made in various places, and the shadowy gloom
preserved on others, give a life and character to the
pass of the Mil-dubh which is inexpressibly enchant-
ing. The glen of Achnacary is also fine, though of
a different style of beauty. The scenery is here of
a more open character, — but still beautifully wooded,
and more cultivated. The tourist will do well to
visit both places, but he should most certainly ap-
proach Loch-Archaig by the pass of the Mil-dubh.
By this road the lake is entirely hid till the traveller
is close upon it. After penetrating through the
pass, and just before entering on the lake, a small
stream, falling over the rocks to the north, forms a
pleasing cascade finely fringed with trees and under-
wood which overhang and almost dip into its waters.
Immediately afterwards the lake begins to appear,
small apparently at first, but gradually enlarging as
we advance. Ascending a small hill a short way up
its northern shore, its whole extent is opened" up,
stretching far to the west, and surrounded with dark
and lofty mountains, — its shores richly wooded, and
indented by winding bays and jutting promontories.
Two or three small islands speck its bosom, and im-
mediately opposite, on the southern shore, a dark
forest of natural pine trees of great size frowns over
it. Looking to the east, across the lower portion of
the lake, we have the opening of Achnacary, with its
house and pleasure-grounds ; and in the distance, the
waters of Loch-Lochy, with the mountain-barrier on
its opposite shore. Altogether, Loch-Archaig affords
scenery of the finest description, and it is question-
able if it is excelled, or even equalled, by any of our
Scottish lakes. The shores of this romantic lake
more than once gave shelter to Prince Charles after
his discomfiture at Culloden. A few days after that
fatal encounter, he lodged at the house of Donald
Cameron of Glenpean, on this lake. After -his re-
turn from the islands, he and Donald Cameron slept
for some hours on the top of a mountain called Mam-
nan-Callum, on the shores of this lake, within sight
of the encampment of his pursuers, which was not
above a mile distant. Here they arrived in the
morning, and remained till evening watching the mo-
tions of their enemies; at night-fall they betook
themselves to Corrie-nan-gaul, in Knoidart, in which
latter district he wandered for some time. Again,
however, he was hunted by his ruthless pursuers
towards Lochaber ; and again the shores of Loch-
Archaig afforded him shelter. Cameron of Clunes,
the ancestor of the present possessor of that farm,
being himself in peril, bad erected a hut on a hill,
called Tor-a-muilt, or ' the Wedder's hill,' at the
bottom of Loch-Archaig. To this place the prince
was taken by Clunes, and here he lurked securely,
though in the immediate neighbourhood of his foes,
for several days. At this period Charles is described
as wearing a shirt extremely soiled, an old tartan
coat, a plaid, and a philabeg. He was bare-footed,
and had a long beard. In his hand he usually carried
a musket, and he had a dirk and pistol by his side.
A few years ago, an ancient claymore, much injured
with rust, was found near the site of this hut, which,
in all probability, had belonged to Charles, or some
of his friends. It was on the shores of Loch-Archaig
that Munro of Culcairn was shot by an exasperated
Highlander, shortly after the suppression of the Re-
bellion ; and it reflects infinite credit on this people,
that notwithstanding all the calamities they suffered,
this is the only instance of assassination which can
be brought against them. Mr. Chambers [History
of the Rebellion in 1745, vol. ii. p. 139.] has erred in
several particulars in his account of this affair. The
perpetrator was not a servant of Glengarry, but one
of the clan Cameron, who resided on Loch-Archaig;
his name was Dugald Roy Cameron, or, as he is still
styled in tradition, Du Rhu. It is well-known that an
order was issued to the Highlanders to deliver up their
arms after the Rebellion. Dugald willing to make
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53
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his peace with the government, sent his son to Fort-
William with his arms, to be delivered up. The
young man when coming down Loch-Archaig was met
by an officer of the name of Grant, who was conduct-
ing a party of military into Knoidart. This monster
immediately seized the young man, and notwith-
standing his statement as to the object of his going
to Fort- William, ordered him to be shot on the spot.
His father, fired at this savage deed, swore to be
revenged, and learning that the officer rode a white
horse, watched his return behind a rock, on a height
above Loch-Archaig. Major Munro had unfortunate-
ly borrowed the white horse on which Grant rode,
and he met the fate which was intended for another.
Dugald Roy escaped at the time, and afterwards be-
came a soldier in the British service.
ARCLET (Loch), a small gloomy-looking sheet
of water in the north-west corner of the parish of
Buchanan in Stirlingshire, and bordering on Aberfoyle
parish. A stream flows out of its western side into
Loch Lomond at Inversnaid; while the sources of
the Forth are within half-a-mile of it on the south ;
so that it appears to lie on the dividing ridge betwixt
the waters of the two friths. The road from Inver-
snaid to Loch Katerine passes on the southern side
of the loch, which is wholly destitute of picturesque
features.
ARD (Loch), a beautiful sheet of water in the
parish of Aberfoyle, at the eastern base of Ben-
Lomond. By a mountain-road, which is often tra-
velled, it is about 7 miles distant from the Trosachs.
The distance from Glasgow to Aberfoyle is about 30
miles, and from the parish-church to the entrance of
the lake, a mile. There are in fact two lakes, which
are separated from each other by a stream about 200
yards in length ; but the lower lake is of small ex-
tent, its length being scarcely a mile, and its breadth
about half-a-mile. The upper lake is 5 miles in
length, and 2 miles broad. The valley of Aberfoyle,
with its varied rocks and precipices, and its river
winding amid pleasant meadows and richly wooded
hills, is very beautiful ; but Loch-Ard, with its ad-
joining scenery, is the object of greatest interest in
the district, and yields to none of the Scottish lakes
in picturesque beauty and effect. The traveller,
leaving Aberfoyle, after a walk of about a mile,
arrives at the opening of the lower lake, the view of
which is uncommonly grand. Far in the west Ben-
Lomond raises his huge and lofty form amid the
clouds ; while in nearer prospect are beheld gentle
rising grounds covered to their summits with oak
trees and waving birch. In front, are the smooth
« aters of the lower lake ; its right banks skirted
with extensive woods which cover the adjoining
mountains up to half their height. This, with the
nearly inaccessible tract which lies to the westward,
is what is called the Pass of Aberfoyle, and ancient-
ly formed one of the barriers between the Highlands
and the Lowlands. This pass has been the scene of
many tierce encounters in former times ; in particu-
lar, one took place here between the Highlanders and
the troops of Cromwell, in which the English sol-
diers were defeated. Advancing up the pass, the
traveller arrives at the upper portion of the lake.
A fine view of it is obtained from a rising ground
near its lower end, where a footpath strikes off the
road into the wood that overhangs the stream, con-
necting the upper with the lower lake; or a still
finer, perhaps, from a height about 2 miles up the
eastern side of the lake, a little way below what
is called the Priest's point, or craig. Here the
lake is seen almost in its whole expanse, — its
shores beautifully skirted with woods, and its
northern and western extremities finely diversified
with meadows, corn fields, and farm-houses. On
the opposite shore, Ben-Lomond towers aloft in
form like a cone, its sides presenting gentle slopes
towards the north-west and south-east. A cluster
of rocky islets, near the opposite shore, lend their aid
in ornamenting the surface of the waters of the lake :
and numerous rocky promontories and sheltered bays
with their waving woods increase the effect of the
scene. A small wooded island, seen near the oppo-
site shore, on the right side, is Duke Murdoch's isle.
On this islet Murdoch, Duke of Albany, Regent of
Scotland during the captivity of James I. in England,
erected a tower or castle, the ruins of which still re-
main; and tradition reports, that it was from hence
he was taken previous to his execution at Stirling.
On the shores of Loch-Ard, near a ledge, or rather
wall of rock, about 30 feet in height, there is a sin-
gular echo which repeats a few words twice over.
ARDARGIE, a small village in the shire ot Perth,
and parish of Forgandenny, situate upon an eminence
above the river May, among the Ochilis.
ARDAVASAR'BAY. See Sleat.
ARDBLAIR, an ancient mansion in the parish of
Blair-Gowrie. It is one of those ancient massive-
looking structures which partake, in a nearly equal
degree, of the gloomy, Irowning, suspicious-looking
style of the olden time, and the more open and com-
modious fashion of our own da\s. The castle
is one of the family-seats of Mr. Blair Oliphant of
Gask and Ardblair, but it is now occupied by the
tenant of the adjoining farm. On the south side of
the house lies the moss of Ardblair, a tract of some
20 or 30 acres, covered with reeds and pools.
ARDCHATTAN, a district of Argyle, consisting
quoad civilia of the two united parishes of Ardchattan
and Muckairn, anciently called Ballebhodan and
Kilespickarrol,— the latter denoting the burial-place
of Bishop Cerylus or Cerullus, and the former sig-
nifying St. Bede's town or place of residence. The
walls of a small church, supposed to have been built
by St. Bede, still remain entire, having withstood
the storms and tempests "of several centuries. The
united parish is an immense district extending aboce
30 miles in length, and being from 15 to 20 in
breadth at an average. It stretches along the southern
shore of Loch Creran, and on both sides of Loch
Etive ; but the parish of Muckairn, on the southern
side of Loch Etive, was again disjoined from it quoad
sacra in 1829. See Muckairn. The surface is for
the most part mountainous, intersected with streams
of water, and highly diversified with heights and
hollows. There are several rivers abounding with
excellent trout in the district ; the most considerable
are the Awe, the Kinloss, and the Etive. Near the
mouth of the former is a valuable salmon-fishing.
The most remarkable hill is Ben-Cruachan, which
is in the centre of the parish, and 13 or 14 miles in
circuit at the base. See article Ben-Cruachan. The
district abounds with natural wood ; and there are a
few plantations of pines and Scotch firs. Every
cutting of the woods is supposed to yield the pro.
prietors no less than £15,000 or £16,000 sterling.
They consist of ash, birch, hazel, and alder, but
chiefly oak. Roes and fallow-deer run wild in the
woods ; and there is a forest in Glenetive pretty
well-stocked with red deer. Foxes, hares, wild-cats,
pole-cats, martins, weazels, otters, badgers, black-
cocks, moorfoul, ptarmigans, partridges, plovers,
eagles, and hawks, are found here. The soil is
generally light and dry, and when properly culti-
vated, and allowed time to rest, produces excellent
crops of oats, barley, and potatoes. About 1753, a
companv from Lancashire erected a furnace for cast-
ing pig-iron at Lorn-Quarnan in Muckairn, and ob-
tained a long lease of several farms for rearing wood
and grazing their \\ oik-horses. In 1831, thij cors-
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puny employed 68 men in cutting and charring wood
for their works. The number of horses, including
breeding-mares, in the district, in 1792, amounted, at
the lowest computation, to 450. Their price, it was
then stated, had advanced considerably within these
few years, as they then cost from £10 to .£12. The
number of black cattle in the parish, at the same
date, was from 2,600 to 2,800 ; and they generally
brought from £4 to £6 per head. The sheep
amounted to between 28,000 and 30,000, and sold
from 10s. to 40s. per head. " All kinds of pro-
visions," says the Statistical reporter in 1792, " are
considerably increased in price. As there is no pub-
lic market, every family must provide their own
necessaries. A fat cow for slaughter, which 30
years ago could be bought at £2 10s., now costs £6;
wethers, butter, cheese, geese, and hens, in proportion.
Meal, at an average, is 16s., bailey 21s per boll, at
least. The day- wages of men-labourers are Is. with-
out victuals; of masons Is- 6d., and of wrights Is.
6d. Men-servants get from £6 to £8 per annum ;
and female ditto, from £3 to £3 10s." The valued
rent is £587 7s. 4d. Scots. The real rent was sup-
posed, in 1792, to be between £4,000 and £5,000
sterling, exclusive of the cutting of the woods and
the kelp-shores. The largest estate, that of Bar-
caldine, is about 12 miles north-east from Oban, 28
miles south-west from Fort- William, and the like
distance north-west from Inverary. It is situated on
Loch Creran, and comprehends the whole of the
southern banks of Loch Creran, a stretch of about
12 miles of coast, while at one point on the south it
nearly reaches Loch Etive. This estate contains
10,741 acres Scots, or 13,546 imperial; but a large ad-
dition may be made on account of the great inequality
of surface throughout, particularly on the hills and
woods, so that the true extent of surface-measure
may fairly be taken at upwards of 15,000 imperial
acres. The rental, including the value of the sheep-
farms and the wood-cuttings, was estimated, in 1835,
at nearly £2,700. According to Dr. Webster, the
number of inhabitants in the united parishes amount-
ed, in 1755, to 2,195 ; in 1801, it was 2,371 ; and in
1831, 2,420, of whom 1,650 belonged to Ardchattan,
and 770 to the district of Muckairn. Houses 442.
of which 155 were in Muckairn. Assessed property
£12,593. — The parish of Ardchattan is in the pres-
bytery of Lorn, and synod of Argyle. By decreet of
locality, in 1817, the whole valued teinds of Ard-
chattan and Muckairn were granted to the minister
of Ardchattan. Stipend £283 3s. 2d., with a rnanse,
and glebe of the annual value of £8. There are
three places of worship, Ardchattan, Muckairn, and
Inverguesechan in Glenetive : at the last place there
is a missionary, who preaches alternately with the
missionary of Glenco and Glencreran. Campbell of
Lochnell is patron. A new and more centrically
situated church was opened in Ardchattan parish, in
July 1836 ; sittings 450 ; both the old and new-
churches are situated close upon the northern shore
of Loch Etive, the former 10 miles, and the latter 8
from the western boundary, and 30 and 32 miles
respectively from the north-eastern boundary. There
are two parochial schools, one in Ardchattan and the
other in Muckairn. The salary of the schoolmaster
of Ardchattan is £29 16s. 7jd., with about £11
school-fees. Number of pupils average 40. There
are also two schools in this district supported by the
General Assembly, and attended by about 180 chil-
dren. There are a parish-library, and two itinerating
libraries. A school is established in the lower part
of Ardchattan parish by the society for propagating
Christian knowledge, with a salary of £13 sterling;
and the schoolmaster's wife has from the society £3
sterling, for teaching young girls to spin, and knit
stockings. There are, besides, 3 or 4 private schools
in remote parts of this district, supported by the
neighbouring tenants whose children have not access
to the public schools. The number of scholars at
all these, at the lowest calculation, amounts to 200 in
winter. On the north side of Loch Etive, 10 miles
distant from Dunstaffnage, was a priory of the monks
of Valliscaulium, founded in the year 1230, by Dun-
can Mackoul — ancestor to the Macdougals of Lorn.
Some of the walls of the old priory are still standing.
" The proprietor's dwelling-house," we are told,
" was formerly a part of the monastery, and his offices
occupy great part of the ground on which it stood.
What now remains of the priory is converted into
burying-ground." In the walls are two stone coffins
in niches, one of which is ornamented " with a font,
and an inscription in the Runic character." [Statis-
tical account, 1792.] We are informed by some of
our writers, that Robert Bruce held a parliament
here, when he retired into this district after his de-
feat in the battle of Methven. But, as Pennant has
remarked, it was " more probably a council," as " he
remained long master of this country, before he got
entire possession of Scotland." The common lan-
guage is the Celtic : the names of all the farms are
derived from it, and are in general descriptive of their
situations. Loch Etive, which divides Ardchattan
from Muckairn and two other parishes, is a navigable
inlet of the sea, 15 miles in length, but of unequal
breadth. See article Etive (Loch). The valley
of Eta is famous as having been the residence of Us-
nath, father of Nathos, Althos, and Ardan ; the first
of whom carried off Darthula, wife of Conquhan,
King of Ulster, which is the subject of a beautiful
poem of Ossian. There is a small island, with some
vestiges of a house upon it in Loch Etive, which
goes by the name of Elain Usnich, or ' the island of
Usnath ;' and on the farm of Dulness, in Glenetive,
is a rock rising in the form of a cone, and command-
ing a romantic prospect, which to this day retains
the name of Grianan Dearduil, ' the basking-place
of Darthula.' See, in addition to articles above re-
ferred to, articles Beregonium, and Connal.
ARDCLACH, a parish in the county of Nairn,
bounded by Auldearn, Nairn, Cawdor, Mov, Duthil,
and Edinkelly parishes; about 10 or 12 miles long,
and between 7 and 8 broad. It is intersected by the
Findhorn river, which is here rapid, and frequently
impassable, excepting at the bridges. In 1809 the
parliamentary commissioners authorized the execu-
tion of a road from Belugas, along the eastern side
of the Findhorn, to join the old military road from
Fort George to Edinburgh, through Strathspey and
Braemar, near Dulsie bridge, and thus connect For-
res with the Aviemore road and the south of Scot-
land. A. branch-road falls into this at Tominarroch,
half-way between the bridge at Relugas and Dulsie
bridge, connecting it with Nairn. The distance of
the kirk of Ardclach from Nairn by this branch-road
is about 9 miles. The valley of the Findhorn here
presents very beautiful scenery. " The whole coun-
try for several miles eastward is composed of a high-
ly crystalline porpbyritic granite, displaying, in some
instances, faces of a hard columnar rock, which confine
the waters of the Findhorn to a deep, narrow, and ir-
regular channel ; and in other places giving rise — from
a tendency in their masses to exfoliate and decom-
pose— to open holms and smooth grassy banks. All
the varieties of hardwood characteristic of the course
of Scottish rivers are seen in rich profusion on both
sides of the stream ; while the adjoining hills also
exhibit a few scattered remnants of the ancient pine
forests which formerly covered the country. To-
wards the east, the eye is attracted by the bright
light green masses of the oak and birchen copses of
ARD
ARD
Tarnaway and Relugas, which form the outer fringes
of the more sombre pine woods. About a mile below
Dulsie, a beautiful sequestered holm greets the tra-
veller, encircled with terraced banks and birchen
bowers; and in the centre of which rises a small
cairn, with an ancient sculptured tablet, about eight
feet high, and half as broad, standing at one end of
t, and having a rude cross and many Runic knots
still discernible on its surface. Tradition calls it the
stone of memorial of a Celtic princess, who perished
in the adjoining river, while attempting to ford it on
horseback with her lover, a Dane. Immediately
behind this spot, the high promontory of Farness
rises nearly 200 feet above the river, the direct
course of which it has shifted, and confined to a deep
winding chasm of at least 3 miles' circuit." [Ander-
sons' Guide, pp. 132, 133 : edn. 1834.] See article
Dulsie. This parish is a mountainous district,
covered with heath, and furnishes little of any other
kind of pasture. There is a considerable quantity of
wood in it, chiefly consisting of firs, birch, alder, hazel,
ash, and some oaks. The woods and hills abound
with moor-fowl, wood-cocks, partridges, hares, and
foxes, and some deer are found. The otter and
wild cat are sometimes seen. The Statistical re-
porter of 1792, stated that the method of labouring
pursued here seemed to have undergone "little al-
teration for centuries back. The farmers use the
small Scotch plough drawn by four or six black cat-
tle and two small horses, or by four horses and four
black cattle." This mode of ploughing is now dis-
used, and the agriculture of the district greatly im-
proved. The rental produced before the court of
teinds, in 1786, was 283 bolls victual, and £543 8s.
5d. in money. Since that period, there has been a
great increase of rent in the parish. There are about
2,000 acres of arable land, and 4,000 acres of moss
and moor, a very small part of which seems to be
improvable for corn-lands, in this parish. Popula-
tion, in 1801, 1,256; in 1831, 1,270. Houses 295.
Assessed property £2,566 This parish is in the
presbvterv of Nairn, and svnod of Morav. Patron,
Brodie of Letham. Stipend £248 Is' Id. The
church is said to have been built in 1626, and was re-
builtabout 1760. Schoolmaster's salary £36 7s. 2d.,
with £i 10s. fees. Average number of scholars 20.
There are two private schools in the parish attended
by about 30 children each.
ARDEONAIG, or Loch Tayslde, a mission un-
der the Society for propagating Christian knowledge,
which was divided as a separate charge from the
parishes of Killin and Kenmore, in Perthshire, by
authority of the presbytery of Dunkeld, about 1786,
and consists of portions of these two parishes. Its
greatest length is 7 miles ; greatest breadth, 4.
Population, in 1831, 650. Church built by the
Marquis of Breadalbane, in 1822; sittings 650.
Minister's stipend .£60, with a manse, and a glebe of
the value of £12.
ARDERSIER, written Ardnaseer in some char-
ters, a parish of Inverness-shire. According to tra-
dition, it obtained its name from a number of car-
penters having been drowned in the ferry opposite
Ardersier point, in the year in which the cathedral
at Elgin, and that at Fortrose, were built* The
parish is 2i miles in length, and its breadth is nearly
the same. " It is bounded by the parish of Petty on
the west and south ; by the parish of Nairn on the
* In the Gaelic language, saor signifies * a carpenter,' and
ard, ' high.' That part or the parish approaching the coast is
high, rising id some places to 300 feet ; and it may therefore have
received its name from such an accident; "but it is fully as
natural to conclude," says the first Statistical reporter, "that
it obtained its name from its hitih situation, and that Ard-na-
njor is a corruption ol ard'n Fliaobhair, which signifies ' the
high edge,' or ' height of the edge,' i. e. of the hill."
east, and by the Moray frith on the north. Popula-
tion, in 1801, 1,041 ; 'in 1831, 1,268. Houses 271
Assessed property £1,275. The district in general is
very fertile. The shore is sandy and flat, which is
the character of the whole of this side of the Moray
frith from Inverness to Nairn. The rental of the
parish, including the farm sold to government when
the garrison of Fort-George was built, was £365 in
1792 ; the rent of the garrison-farm was £50. At that
period nearly the whole parish was in the possession
of one farmer, but the greater part was subset by him
in small farms of from 20 to 30 acres. There were
scarcely any enclosing- walls known except a few rude-
ly constructed of feal or earth This parish is in the
presbytery of Nairn, and synod of Moray. Patron,
the Earl of Cawdor. The church and manse were
represented, in the first Statistical report, as having
been built with clay in 1769. The stipend is £158
6s. 7d. Schoolmaster's salary £36, with £20 fees.
There are two private schools. The Gaelic and
English languages are spoken here equally well.
The roads are exceedingly good. Where this parish
is divided from that of Nairn, there is a stone about
6 feet high, and 3 broad, called the Cabbac stone,
which, tradition says, was erected over a chieftain
who fell in an affray about a cheese, in the town of
Inverness. The whole parish is the property of the
Earl of Cawdor, and was a part of the lands of the
Bishop of Ross, with some temple-lands formerly
belonging to the knights of St. John of Jerusalem.
The territory which constitutes the precinct of the
Fort, was purchased by government about the year
1746. See article Fort-George. Near to Arder-
sier— which is situate on the southern shore of the
Varar — a very curious Roman sword and the head
of a spear were discovered.
ARDGOUR, or Ardgower, a district in the
shires of Argyle and Inverness ; bounded on the
north-west by Loch Shiel, and on the north and
east by Loch Eil. There is an excellent road from
Loch Moidart to the Corran of Ardgour ; and from
the latter place there is a ferry across Loch Eil to
the military road from Fort- William to the Lo w coun-
try. See articles Loch Shiel and Loch Eil. In
1829 a church was erected here by the parliamentary
commissioners. See article Ballachulish
ARDINTENNY, a pleasant little hamlet, in the
parish of Strachur, Argyleshire, on the west side of
Loch Long, 4 miles from Strone ferry, and about 3
from Loch Eck, to which there is a road by Cuills
and Tavnforlin.
ARDLAMONT, a headland of Argyleshire, be-
tween the kyles of Bute and the mouth of Loch
Fyne. It is 6 miles north-east from Skipnish, the
opposite point on the western side of the loch.
ARDMADDY, in Nether Lorn, at the southern
entrance of the singularly intricate and narrow chan-
nel, or kyle, between the island of Seil and the
mainland of Argyleshire. There is a small bay here,
the shores of which are bold, and finely wooded.
Pennant was hospitably received at Ardmaddy house,
and has thrown his reflections on the condition ot
the Highland peasantry into the form of a vision with
which he represents himself as having been favoured
here. [See Second Tour, in Kerr's Collection of
Voyages and Travels, vol. iii. pp. 357 — 360.] A
quarrv of white marble veined with red exists here.
ARDMEANACH, or The Black Isle, a pen-
insular district of Cromartyshire, bounded on the
north-west and north by the Cromarty frith ; on the
east by the Moray frith; on the south by Loch
Beauly ; and on the west by the vale of the Conan.
It comprises 8 parishes ; and receives its English
name from its bleak, moorland character. It is now.
however, well-intersected by roads.
ARD
56
ARD
ARDMHERIGIE. See Laggan (Loch).
ARDNAMURCHAN, a bold promontory in the
district of Morvern, Argyleshice; the most western
point of the mainland of Scotland, in N. lat. 56°
45', W. long. 6° 8' 30". It forms the northern point
of the mouth of Loch Sunart ; and is 10 miles dis-
tant from the north-eastern extremity of the island
of Coll, and 7 from the island of Muck. The shores
here are rugged and uninteresting; and the interior
from the Point to Strontian, a distance of about 25
miles, mountainous, bare, and wild.
ARDNAMURCHAN, or Aird-na-mor-Chuan,
i. e. ' The Point of the Great Seas,' a parish partly
in the shire of Argyle, and partly in that of Inver-
ness. It is in the presbytery of Mull, and synod
of Argyle. Patron, the Duke of Argyle. The po-
pulation of this parish, chiefly composed of small
tenants and poor crofters, was as follows :
1801. 1811. 1831.
That part, which is in the shire of Argyle 2664 2827 3311
That part, which is in the shire of Inverness 2165 2324 2358
4829 5151 5669
The labourers not agricultural are employed in
making kelp, fishing, and in driving black cattle to
the South country markets. Houses in Argyleshire
589; in Inverness-shire 397. The headland above
described gives name to the parish. It appears,
that, in the year 1630, the western or peninsular
portion of the district formed a separate parish called
Kill-Choan, from a church of that name dedicated
to St. Coan ; the remaining districts of the present
parish of Ardnamurchan formed a second parish,
under the name of Eileinfirman or Island Finan, from
a beautiful little island in Loch Sheil, then the resi-
dence of the minister, and site of the principal church.
In still more ancient times, the two most northern
districts probably formed a third parish, named Kill-
Maria, or Kilmarie, after a church — some vestiges of
which still remain at Kcppoch in Arisaig — dedicated to
the Virgin Mary. It has again been divided into three
parishes by the erection of the Government-church
districts of Acharacle and Strontian into quoad sacra
parishes. Within the limits of this extensive parish
are comprehended five several districts, or countries,
as they are here called, viz. : 1st, Ardnamurchan
Proper, or the parish of Kill-Choan, which is 16
miles in length, and 4i miles in its mean breadth ; —
2d, Sunart, which is 12 miles by 6; — 3d, Mot-
dart, which is 18 miles by 7; — 4th, Arisaig; —
and, 5th, South Mor'ar. The two first of these
districts are in the shire of Argyle ; they join at
Tarbert in an isthmus of about 2 miles in breadth,
extending from Salen, a creek on the north side of
Loch Sunart, to Kinira bay ; and extend in one range
from east to west. The others are. in the shire of In-
verness, and lie parallel to each other and to Sunart,
from which Moidart is separated by Loch Sheil ;
the river Sheil being the boundary between the
north-east corner of Ardnamurchan Proper, and the
south-west of Moidart, for about 3 miles, to its fall
into the sea at Castle Tioram. The greatest length
of the entire parish, calculating by the nearest road,
is not less than 70 miles ; its greatest breadth 40.
It is calculated to contain 273,280 acres of land
and water ; of which, it is believed, about 200,000
acres are land. It consists, principally, of moors,
and mountains, and hills, in general more rugged
and precipitous than of great elevation, the high-
est not exceeding 3,000 feet. There is a con-
siderable extent of oak-coppice on the shores
of Loch Sunart. Ardnamurchan and Sunart be-
long to Sir James Milles Riddell, Bart. : — great
part of Moidart, and all Arisaig,, belong to Mac-
tlonald of Clanianald. Mingary castle, now Castle
Riddell, is ruinous. Castle Tioram was burned in
1715, since which time it has been in ruins. The
houses of Kinloch-Moidart (since rebuilt in an
elegant style by Colonel Donald Macdonald), and
Mor'ar, together with every hut which they could
discover, were burned by the king's troops in 1746,
who also destroyed all the stock of cattle. The
annual produce of the fisheries on the coast was com-
puted, in 1800, at £240. This huge parish is
now separated into two divisions, — northern and
southern, — by quoad sacra parishes, which interpose
between each division a space of fully 20 miles.
The southern division contains the parish-church,
and is 12 miles long by 6 broad ; the northern, or
Arisaig, is 24 miles by 15, and -is chiefly inhabited by
Roman Catholics. See Arisaig. The present
parish-church was built in 1830 ; sittings 600. Sti-
pend £228 4s. 4d., with a manse and glebe, and
fuel. The salary of the parochial schoolmaster in
Ardnamurchan is £16 13s. 4d. The Society for
propagating Christian knowledge allow to a school-
master in Sunart £12 10s., and to a sewing-
mistress there £2 ; and also to a schoolmaster in
Arisaig, and South Mor'ar £16: the perquisites
of the masters are inconsiderable. The lead mines
at Strontian are carried on by an English com-
pany, and annually produce about £4,000 : a new
mineral was discovered here, which is distinguished
by the title of Strontites; its chemical qualities are
ably described by Mr. Kinvan, in the 5th volume of
the Transactions of The Royal Irish Academy. An
excellent road has been made through this extensive
district, from Loch Moidart to the Corran of Ard-
gour, under the auspices of The Parliamentary com-
missioners and the several great landed proprietors;
but communication is still much impeded by bridge-
less rivers, marshy ground, and want of roads. Fairs
are bolden on the 19th of May, and 15th of October.
ARDOCH, a village in the parish of Muthill,
Perthshire ; 4i miles south-west of Muthill ; now
more commonly called Braco, from the estate oil*
which it is feued. Population about 400. Achapel-
of-ease was erected here in 1780; and the district,
including some portions of the parishes of Dunblane
and Blackford, has been erected into a quoad sacra
parish, with a population of 1,535. There are also
a United Secession church, situated about li mile
south of Ardoch, and two schools, in this district
Ardoeh is celebrated for its Roman camp, which is
regarded by antiquaries as the most perfect specimen
of the kind now extant in Britain. It is situated
on an eminence close on the north side of — or rather
intersected by — the high road from Crieff or Muthill,
to Stirling ; and is thus described in the first Statis-
tical report : " The situation of the camp at Ardoch
gave it many advantages ; being on the north-west
side of a deep moss that runs a long way eastward.
On the west side, it is partly defended by the steep
banks of the water of Knaick ; which bank rises
perpendicularly between forty and fifty feet. The
north and east sides were most exposed ; and there
we find very particular care was taken to secure
them. The ground on the east is pretty regular,
and descends by a gentle slope from the lines of for-
tification, which, on that side, consist of five rows
of ditches, perfectly entire, and running parallel to
one another. These altogether are about fifty-five
yards in breadth. On the north side, there is an
equal number of lines and ditches, but twenty yards
broader than the former. On the west, besides the
steep precipices above mentioned, it was defended
by at least two ditches. One is still visible ; the
others have probably been rilled up, in making the
great military road from Stirling to the North. The
side of the camp, lung to the southward, exhibits to
ARD
J37
ARD
the antiquary a less pleasing prospect. Here the
peasant's rugged hand has laid in ruins a great part
of the lines ; so that it may be with propriety said,
in the words of a Latin poet, ' Jam seges est, ubi
Troja fuit.' However, from the remains yet to be
traced, it appears there were also three or four
ditches, which, with its natural advantages, rendered
this side as strong and as secure as any of the others.
The four entries, crossing the lines at right angles,
are still distinctly to be seen. The area of the camp
is an oblong of 140 yards, by 125 within the lines.
The general's quarter rises above the level of the
camp, but is not in the centre. It is a regular square,
each side being exactly twenty yards. At present
it exhibits evident marks of having been enclosed
with a stone wall, and contains the foundation of a
house, ten yards by seven. That a place of worship
has been erected here, is not improbable, as it has
obtained the name of Chapel hill from time imme-
morial. Besides the camp above mentioned, so com-
pletely fortified both by nature and art, (and which
is supposed to have been formed by Agricola, for the
Roman legions under his command,) there are other
two encampments adjoining to it, and having a com-
munication with one another, containing above 130
acres of ground. These seem to have been defend-
ed by only a single ditch and rampart, and probably
were intended for the cavalry and auxiliaries. Here
was room for all the forces that fought under Agri-
cola near the Grampian mountains, notwithstanding
what has been said by Mr. Gordon, in his ' Itiner-
arium Septentrionale,' to the contrary; who proba-
bly imagined, as others have done since, that the
whole ground at Ardoch, fortified by the Romans,
lay within the small camp above mentioned. It has
already been observed, that the two large encamp-
ments had a communication with one another; and,
that there was a subterraneous passage from the
small one under the bed of the river, is more than
probable, from a circumstance now to be mentioned.
There was a hole near the side of the proetorium,
that went in a sloping direction for many fathoms ;
in which, it was generally believed, treasures, as
well as Roman antiquities, might be found. In or-
der to ascertain this fact, a man, who had been con-
demned by the baron-court of a neighbouring lord,
upon obtaining a pardon, agreed to be let down by
a rope into this hole. He at first brought up with
him, from a great depth, Roman spears, helmets,
fragments of bridles, and several other articles : but
upou being let down a second time, was killed by
foul air. No attempt has been made since that time.
The articles, above mentioned, lay at the house of
Ardocb for many years, but were all earned off, by
some soldiers in the Duke of Argyle's army, in 1715,
after the battle of Sheriffmuir, and could never after-
wards be recovered. The mouth of the hole was
covered up with a millstone, by an old gentleman
who lived at the house of Ardoch, while the family-
were in Russia, about ihe year 1720, to prevent
hares from running into it when pursued by his dogs ;
and as earth, to a considerable depth, was laid over
the millstone, the place cannot now be found, al-
though diligent search has been made for it.."
ARDROSSAN, a parish in the district of Cun-
ningham, on the coast of Ayrshire ; bounded on the
north-west by West Kilbride parish; on the north-
east by Dairy; on the east and south-east by Kil-
winning and Stevenston ; and on the south-west by
the frith of Clyde. Its greatest length is 6 miles;
and greatest breadth, 3{. Population, in 1755, 1/297;
in 1801, 1,846; in 1831, 3,494. Houses 401. The
extent of sea-coast is about 4 miles. The north-
west quarter of the parish, between Ardrossan and
Kilbride, is hilly ; the highest hill in this quarter is
Knockgeorgan, or Knockgargon, which rises to about
700 feet above sea-level. The principal streams; are
the Munnock or Caddel burn, which rises in Kil-
bride, and flows eastwards into the Gaaf ; and the
Stanley and Monfode burns which flow southwards
into the sea near Ardrossan. The soil is in general
light and fertile. Aiton estimates the area of the
parish at 9,000 Scots acres, and the real rent, in
1809, at £6,098. The Statistical reporter, in 18.37,
estimates the area at only 5,520 Scots acres ; and
the real rent at £7,800, being an average of 30s
per acre. The parish is intersected by three main
lines of road ; two of which run between Dairy and
Ardrossan, and Dairy and Saltcoats, while the third,
or coast-line, connects Saltcoats and Ardrossan. A
railway from Ardrossan to Kilwinning was opened
in 1832. The Glasgow and Ayr railway now joins
this railway at Kilwinning, by a branch leading off
at Dairy. Saltcoats is the post-town The parish
of Ardrossan is in the presbytery of Irvine, and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Earl of Eglinton.
It is a landward parish, comprising part of the towns
of Saltcoats and Ardrossan, and including quoad sacra
the estate of Boydstone in Kilbride. By a census,
taken in 1836, the population was returned at 3,834,
of whom 2,170 belonged to the established church ;
2,330 resided in the town of Saltcoats, and 8S5 in
that of Ardrossan. The parish-church was formerly
at Ardrossan, but is now at Saltcoats. It was built
in 1773 ; sittings 840. Minister's stipend £261 Is.
3d.; with a manse and glebe. Unappropriated teinds
£676 lis. lid. A Gaelic church has been erected
at Saltcoats for the benefit of the Gaelic population
of Ardrossan and Stevenston, whose number, in
1835, amounted to 748, most of whom were natives
of Arran. This church cost £946, and has 720
sittings. — There are two Secession churches in the
town of Saltcoats, of which the 2d is in the parish of
Ardrossan. There are 9 schools in the parish, 6 of
which are in Saltcoats, 2 in Ardrossan, and one in the
country. The salary of the parish-schoolmaster is
£34 4s. 4^d., with school-fees to the amount of £25,
and a house and garden. Average number of pupils
60 ; at the other eight schools, about 450.
The town of Saltcoats will be described in a
separate article. The sea-port of Ardrossan was
founded by the late Earl of Eglinton, but a fishing-
village had existed here from time immemorial. A
circular pier, 900 yards in length, covers the harbour
on the south and west, while the Horse isle — a rock
presenting about 12 acres of good pasture — shelters
it on the north-west ; and the isthmus of Kintyre,
and the island of Arran, protect the channel from the
violence of the Atlantic storms. According to the
original plan, the basin or wet dock was to be of
dimensions sufficient to contain from 70 to 100 large
vessels, and the pier was to be extended to the
Grinan rock. On the death of the late Earl of Eglin-
ton, the works were suspended, after the earl had
expended above £100,000 on them; and, in 1815,
Messrs. Telford and Rennie reported that it would
require a further expenditure of £300, 0U0 to com-
plete them. " The position which this harbour oc-
cupies is very favourable, being situated at the
mouth of the Clyde, and within thirty miles by rail-
way of Glasgow. Parties requiring to travel Irom
Glasgow or Edinburgh, and the north of Ireland or
Liverpool, when this railway is executed, will be
able to accomplish the journey in at least eight hours
and a-half from Edinburgh, and five hours from Glas-
gow, less time than what is required in sailing at
present from Ardrossan to Belfast. In most in-
stances a night passage will be avoided. The time
required to proceed at present from Glasgow to Bel-
fast by water conveyance, is from fourteen to fifteen
ARD
58
ARG
hours, while from Edinburgh at least twenty hours
are required. The passage from Ardrossan to Bel-
fast is from six to six and a-half hours, so that the
whole time required to travel from Edinburgh and
Glasgow to Belfast would not exceed seven and a-
half hours from Glasgow, and nine and a-hnlf from
Edinburgh. Ardrossan is one of the most fashion-
able watering-places on the west coast of Scotland,
and would be rendered by a railway the nearest and
most accessible" [Mining Gazette, Dec. 31, 1836.]
It may be doubted, however, whether Ardrossan is
fitted to become the post-office packet-station be-
tween Scotland and Ireland. The limited improve-
ments suggested by Mr. James Walker will incur an
outlay of .£40,000, while the total revenue of the har-
bour during the year ending July 1, 1838, was only
£880 ; and the expenses, since 1820, have exceeded
the income by £14,000. The length, too, of the pas-
sage from Belfast to Ardrossan, is sufficient for itself
to unfit it for a packet-station ; but there is another
insuperable objection, viz. were it to be adopted, and
even the north of England supplied via Liverpool,
the whole line of road from Ardrossan by Ayr, Gir-
van, Stranraer, and Port Patrick, and from Port
Patrick to Dumfries, including a portion of Wigton-
shire, would be excluded from mail-accommodation.
There is little doubt, however, that a great impulse
will be given to this port by the completion of the
line of railway between it and Glasgow, as above
noticed. On the 20th of August, 1840, a steamer
began to ply between Ardrossan and Liverpool, in
connexion with the Glasgow and Ayr railway. By
this line of conveyance passengers may leave London
at 10 o'clock in the morning, and find themselves in
Glasgow about the same hour of next day. The at-
tractions of Ardrossan as a bathing-place are very con-
siderable. An elegant crescent has been partially exe-
cuted, and several very handsome villas have been
erected in front of the bay. The hotel is a handsome
building. The distance of Ardrossan from Glasgow
by land, is 28 miles ; and there are daily steamers to
Glasgow and the intervening coast-towns, and also to
Arran. Fairs are held here on the Tuesday before Ayr
July fair, and on the fourth Thursday in November.
ARDSHIEL, the seat of a chief cadet of the
Stewarts of Appin, on the southern shore of the
Linnhe loch, near Kentalen bay, and about 3 miles
from Ballahulish ferry at the mouth of Loch Leven.
" Stewart of Ardshiel was among the foremost who
espoused the cause of Prince Charles in 1745; and,
like many of his brother-outlaws, had to consult his
safety by retiring to a remarkable cave in this neigh-
bourhood. The mouth of the cavern is singularly
protected by a waterfall which descends like a crys-
tal curtain in front of it, but through which no traces
of such an excavation are perceptible. After the
defeat of the Highland army at Culloden, the vigi-
lance of the conquering party was a constant source
of terror and distress to the inhabitants. By some
unknown means, one of the Duke's officers stationed
at Castle Stalker — the subject of many curious tra-
ditions— got notice that a cave existed in this quar-
ter, and started with the resolution to subject the
locality to a minute investigation. It happened that
a poor idiot boy, a hanger-on about the family, had
observed them approaching ; but, not being in suffi-
cient time to give the alarm, he ran after the party,
expressing by his words and gestures a degree of
ridiculous astonishment that was highly diverting to
the soldiers. The drum, in particular, was viewed
by him as an object of the greatest curiosity ; and
to gratify this, he kept close to the drummer, whom
he affected to regard as a person of the highest con-
sequence. ' After using much importunity in order
to get the drum to carry, he took out all the wealth
he possessed, amounting to sixpence, and offered it
to the drummer, provided he would let him hear a
sample of the music' For the sake of diversion his
request was complied with ; but, at the first ' tuck
on the parchment, the cunning youth, affecting the
greatest terror, pretended to run off, while the
drummer, in order to increase the speed of the
fugitive and the laughter of his comrades, thunder-
ed away with all his force. The poor idiot was
soon out of sight ; but, on looking towards the
cave, the soldiers beheld Ardshiel and a few of his
companions, who had been roused by the ominous
drum, making their escape in different directions
among the rocks." [Beattie's Scotland, vol. II. pp.
88, 89.] The idiot-boy of Ardshiel will remind the
reader of Davie Gellatley, and the good service that
poor witling and his mother contrived between them
to render the Baron of Bradwardine while under
hiding. " When the lands of Ardshiel," adds the
same writer in a note, " were confiscated, Campbell
of Glenure was appointed steward on the forfeited
estate, and under him was James Stewart of Acharn,
brother of the unfortunate proprietor. Much dis-
satisfaction, however, arose among the tenants, who
could not regard Campbell but as a government-spy
and interloper. Piqued at this, and willing to re-
taliate, the latter set about removing the old tenants,
and introducing those of his own party in their
stead. To accomplish this impolitic measure, he
had recourse to legal ejectments, which greatly ex-
asperated the people, and he was finally waylaid and
shot by an outlaw named Donald Breck. The
assassin immediately absconded ; but suspicion fall-
ing upon Stewart as the author or instigator of the
deed, the unfortunate gentleman was tried, con-
demned, and hung in chains on the spot where
Campbell was shot. It was confidently believed,
however, that he was sacrificed to the violence of
party-rage, and was innocent of the crime for which
he suffered."
ARDSTINCHAR (The), or Stinchar, a river
of Ayrshire of considerable size, which takes its rise
in the moorish parts of Carrick, in the parish of
Barr, about 12 miles above the village of Colmonell.
It has a very rapid south-west course, through a fine
glen, or strath rather, for 26 or 27 miles, till it falls
into the Atlantic, at Ballantrae, near which village
and close upon the river are the remains of the cas-
tle of Ard-Stinchar, once the seat of the Kennedies or
that ilk. From its situation in a narrow pass com-
manding two entrances into Carrick, — that along the
shore, and that which leads up the river and across
the country to Girvan, — this lortalice must have been
of considerable importance in remoterages. Several
streams or rivulets fall into the Ardstmchar, particu-
larly the Ashill, the Dusk, the Muick, the Fioch,
the Tig, and the burn of Lagan, near Ballantrae.
ARDVOIRL1CH. See Loch Earn.
ARGYLE, or Argyll, an extensive shire, on
the western coast of Scotland. It comprehends
several large islands, as well as a considerable por-
tion of the mainland. The latter part is of a very
irregular figure ; and is bounded on the north by In-
verness-shire ; on the east by the counties of Perth
and Dumbarton, and the frith of Clyde ; on the south
and west by the Irish sea and the Atlantic ocean. Ac-
cording to Playfair, it lies between 55° 15' and 56° 55'
N. latitude ; and 4° 32' and 6° 6' W. longitude ; and
extends 90 miles from north to south ; and, in some
places, upwards of 40 miles from west to east. Its
area, according to the same authority, is about 2,400
square miles, or 1,536,000 English acres, exclusive of
its islands. But this county is intersected by so
many inlets of the sea, and has as yet been so im-
perfectly surveyed, that no correct estimate can be
ARGYLE.
59
formed of its extent. Dr. Smith, in his ' Agricultural
Survey of Argyleshire,' estimates its utmost length,
viz., from Loch Eil to the mull of Kintyre, at 115
miles ; and its breadth from Ardnamurchan to the
source of the Urchay, or Orchy, at 68 miles. He also
estimates the superficial area, exclusive of the islands,
at 2,735 square miles; while Sir John Sinclair has
calculated it at only 2,260 square miles. The islands
belonging to this shire have a joint superficial area,
according to Dr. Smith, of 1,063 square miles; and,
according to Sir John Sinclair, of 929 square miles ;
making a total area, according to the former, of
3,798: and, according to the latter, of 3,189 square
miles, or 2,002,560 English acres, being one-tenth
of the whole surface of Scotland. These admeasure-
ments must be regarded of course as mere approxi-
mations to the actual area both of mainland and
islands ; nor until the Trigonometrical Survey of
Scotland is published is it worth while to attempt
their rectification from existing materials.
The surface of this highly romantic region con-
sists alternately of bleak barren moorlands, rugged
chains of mountains, deep glens, winding inlets
of the sea, and extensive sheets of inland water.
The north-east division is peculiarly bleak, rugged,
and mountainous, but interspered with narrow and
sheltered glens; the western section is very irre-
gular in its outline, and deeply indented by large
bays or lochs. The greater proportion of what may
be called arable land is composed of the level tracts
along the coasts. About one-eighth part of the sur-
face is under cultivation The soil, according to
Playfair, consists of the following vaiieties: " 1.
Gravel mixed with vegetable mould, occurring chiefly
in the more lofty mountains, and along the banks of
the rivers which have their sources in these moun-
tains. 2. Peat-moss, occupying the extensive moors
and low grounds, from which the water does not flow
freely. 3. Decayed limestone. 4. Decayed slate mixed
with coarse limestone. Of the two last, the former is
alight soil, the latter more stiff; but both are fertile,
and found in tracts not greatly elevated above the
level of the sea. They form the great mass of the soil
in the fertile districts of Mid-Lorn, Nether- Lorn,
Craignish, &c, 5. A barren sandy soil, originating
from freestone, or micaceous schistus, prevalent in
the westerly parts of the mainland, and in some of
the islands. Besides these, other kind of soil are
found in this county; and sometimes several species
graduate insensibly into one another. In general a
light loam mixed with sand, on a bottom of clay or
gravel, prevails. On the acclivities of the hills, the
most common soil is a light gravel on till. In the
loaer grounds, there is sometimes a mixture of clay
and moss, and sometimes a coat of black mossy
earth. The soil appropriated to pasture is partly-
dry, and partly wet and spongy ; a considerable pro-
portion of what is either fiat or hilly is covered
with heath. The summits of the highest hills are
generally bare and barren rocks." — Lime is found in
every part of the county. In Lismore, the lime forms
a durable cement under water. In Easdale and Bala-
hulish are quarries of excellent blue slate. Marble
exists in various quarters ; and granite is quarried
near Inverary. Veins of lead are frequent in the
limestone and other strata ; mines of this metal are
wrought at Strontian, at Tyndrum, and in lsla ; in
the latter island a vein of copper is also wrought,
and the same mineral has been found at Kilmartin.
There is abundance of plum-pudding stone at Oban,
Dunstaffnage, and northwards along the coast. The
species of earth, called strontites, or strontian, was
first discovered in the district of Ardnamurchan in
1791. Coal is wrought near Campbelton, and also
in the island of Mull. Granite forms the great moun-
tain-masses in the north-east part of the county ■
but mica-slate predominates in the geological fea-
tures both of the mainland and isles. An extensive
tract of porphyry occurs on the north side of Loch
Fyne ; rloetz-trap prevails in a few districts.
The principal mountains are Ben-Cruachan, 3,669
feet; Ben-More in Mull, 3,168 feet ; Cruach-Lussa,
3,000 feet; Beden-na-Bean, near Loch Etive, 2,720
feet ; the Paps of Jura, 2,580 feet ; Buachaille,
2,537; Ben-na-hua, 2,515 feet; Ben- Arthur, or the
Cobbler, 2,389 feet; Ben-More in Rum, 2,310 feet ;
and Ben-Tarn, 2,306 feet The principal streams are
the Urchay or Orchy, and the Awe ; the former flow-
ing into, the latter flowing from, Loch Awe. Besides
these, there are a multitude of minor streams, more
distinguished by the romantic beauty of their course,
than the volume of their water or their length.
Loch Awe is the principal inland lake. See separate
articles Awe (Loch), and Orchy. The total area
of the fresh water lakes in Argyleshire is about
52,000 square acres. The extent of marshy and
mossy ground must be very great. Natural woods
and plantations cover about 50,000 acres.
The climate of this district is upon the whole
mild, but excessively humid. In the north-eastern
quarter, where the general elevation is greatest, it is
often very cold. The principal branch of rural indus-
try is that of rearing cattle and sheep. The quantity
of grain produced bears a small proportion to the
area. Oats are the principal grain raised, but a large
import of meal is required for the home-consumption.
Potatoes are very extensively cultivated, the poorest
shieling having uniformly attached to it a small
patch of potatoe-ground. The cattle reared here
are of a small size, but highly esteemed in the mar-
kets of the South, to which they are exported in
immense numbers. The sheep are chiefly of the
Linton or black- faced breed ; and have on the main-
land displaced the horned cattle in most larms. Red
deer are still found in some of the forests ; and grouse
and ptarmigans are plentiful.
The principal lines of road in this county are:
1st, the road from Balahulish to Tyndrum, common-
ly called the Glencoe road, 31 miles in extent; 2d,
the road from Tyndrum to Inverary, called the Dal-
mally road, 27 miles in extent; and, 3d, the road
from Inverary to Tarbert, or the Glencroe road, 22
miles The principal canal, within the county, is
the Crinan canal : which see.
The manufacturing industry of this county is un-
important. A large quantity of kelp used formerly
to be annually manufactured along the shores, but it
has been driven out of the market by foreign barilla.
The fisheries, however, on the coast, and particularly
in the lochs, are productive and improving. The two
principal fishing-stations are Inverary and Campbel-
ton ; but considerable quantities of herrings are
caught, which are cured at various stations along the
coasts, and on the shores of the different lochs. Some
leather is manufactured in the count}', and coarse
woollen yarns, stuffs, and stockings, are slill made to
a considerable extent. The establishment of st. ain-
packets between various points on the coast of
Argyle and along the shores of its lochs, and the lar-
ger towns on the frith of Clyde up to Glasgow, has
given a great impulse to industry. On this point we
have pleasure in quoting the language of a cotem-
porary : " It is evident, from the peculiar form of
Argyleshire, that it will always owe as much of the
benefit arising from a ready communication between
its near and distant parts, to improvements in water
carriage, as to any extension of that by land. The
difficulty, indeed, of forming roads in a district so
serrated by the sea, and so blocked up by chains of
hills, is almost insurmountable ; hitherto there have
60
ARGYLE.
been only two or three roads in the county, skirting
along the banks of the lochs. The very barrier,
however, which mainly prevented communication in
the days of our fathers, has turned out to be the
highway in our own. By the never-to-be-sufficient-
ly-admired spirit of the city of Glasgow, about 20
[there are now above 40] steam-vessels are constantly
employed in conveying passengers and goods to and
Iro, throughout the country, and in transporting the
country-produce to market at that city. The effect
of this grand engine, even after so brief a period, is
incalculable. It happens that, notwithstanding the
immense extent of the country, there is not a single
dwelling-place more than ten miles from the sea, nor
a gentleman's seat, (excepting those on the banks of
Loch Awe,) more than ten minutes walk from it.
Every farmer, therefore, every gentleman, finds oc-
casion to employ steam-navigation. When this mode
of conveyance was in its infancy, it was generally
supposed that the little wealth, bold shores, and
scattered population of the county, kept it without
the circle in which its adoption w as to become bene-
ficial. It came, however, to be attempted; and there
is not now a loch, bay, or inlet, but holds a daily, or
at least commands a weekly, communication with the
lowlands and the several districts of the country.
By this means, the farmers — even upon the smallest
scale — are encouraged to fatten stock which they
would never otherwise think of fattening ; the fatten-
ing of stock, again, causes them to improve their
arable land ; the extra-profits enable them to buy
luxuries which, in their turn, communicate senti-
ments of taste, and open the mind to liberal ideas.
The comparative frequency, moreover, of their visits
to the lowlands causes the speedier introduction of
modern and improved systems of agriculture. Steam-
boats are, in short, at once the heralds and the causes
of every kind of improvement in Argyleshire; it is
no hyperbole to say, that they have in ten years
raised the value of land within the county twenty
per cent. Every thing connected with this inven-
tion, so far as Argyleshire is concerned, bears a de-
gree of romantic wonder strangely in contrast with
its mechanical and common-place character. It ac-
complishes, in this district, transitions and juxta-
positions almost as astonishing as those of an Arabian
tale. The Highlander, for instance, who spends his
general life amidst the wilds of Cowal, or upon the
hills of Appin, can descend in the morning from his
lonely home, and setting his foot about breakfast-
time on board a steam-boat at some neighbouring
promontory, suddenly rinds himself in company, it
may be, with tourists from all parts of the earth ; he
sits at dinner between a Russian and an American ;
and, in the evening, he who slept last night amidst
the blue mists of Lorn, is traversing the gas-lighted
streets of Glasgow, or may, perhaps, have advanced
to Edinburgh itself, the polished, the enlightened,
the temple of modern intelligence. Reversing this
wonder, he who has all his life trod the beaten ways
of men, and never but in dreams seen that land of
hill and cloud whence of yore the blue-bonneted
Gael wont to descend, to sweep folds or change
dynasties, can stand in the light of dawn amidst the
refined objects of a capital, and when the shades of
night have descended, finds himself in the very coun-
try of Ossian, with the black lake lying in impertur-
bable serenity at his feet, and over his head the grey
hills that have never been touched by human foot.
Steam-boats, it may be said, bring the most dissimilar
ideas into conjunction, — make the rude Gael shake
hands with the most refined Lowlander, — and cause
the nineteenth and the first centuries to meet to-
gether. No such lever was ever introduced to raise
and revolutionize the manners of a people, or the
resources of a country." [Chambers' Gazetteer of
Scotland, 1832.] Previous to the abolition of the
feudal system, in 1745, the obstacles to improvement
either in agriculture or manufactures were quite in-
superable in this district of Scotland. The abolition
of that system, — the conversion of corn rents, or
rents in kind and services, into money rents, the
suppression of smuggling, — the execution of the
Caledonian and Crinan canals, — the formation of ex-
cellent lines of road throughout the county under
the auspices of the parliamentary commissioners,
the more general diffusion of education, — and the in-
troduction of a system of farming better adapted to
the character and capabilities of the soil and country,
— have all contributed to the improvement of this
interesting district. But the main impulse has un-
doubtedly been given to industry in this quarter of
the country by the introduction of steam-navigation,
and the reciprocal intercourse which has consequent-
ly taken place between all parts of Argyleshire and
the manufacturing districts of the west of Scotland
The average rate of wages is from Is. 6d. to 2s. a-day
Argyleshire is divided into six districts : viz.
Houses.
Population in 1831.
1. Argyle
Pe
)PER
3,116
17,658
2. Cowal
1,394
7,943
3. Isiav
3,452
19,780
4. KlNTYRG
3,131
20,032
5. Lorn
2,809
15.963
6. Mull
3,244
18,997
17,146
100.973
The above population composed 19,252 families, ot
whom 9,116 were engaged in agriculture ; 3,241 in
trade, manufactures, and handicraft; and 6,895 were
not comprised in either of the preceding classes.
The total population of the islands amounted to
35,065; that of the mainland to 66,335. In 1801,
the total population of this county was 71,859 ; in
1811,85,585; in 1821,97,316. It would thus ap-
pear that the rate of increase of popidation has
been falling off since the commencement of this cen-
tury ; anu that during the ten years preceding 1831,
it amounted to only 4 per cent, while the decennial
ratio of increase on the population of England and
Wales, since the commencement of the century, has
been somewhat more than 16 per cent. The slow
increase of population in this shire may be attributed
partly to the limited nature of its territorial re-
sources ; partly to the extensive emigration which has
taken place from this county chiefly to Canada ; and
partly to the system so generally pursued by the large
proprietors of throwing several small farms into the
hands of one tenant, and discountenancing any at-
tempt at minute subdivision of the soil.
The number of parishes, in 1831, was 50, besides
several mission-stations and chapelries. The synod
of Argyle comprehends the presbyteries of Argyle,
Dunoon, Kintyre, Islay, Jura, Lorn, and Mull. The
number of parochial schools, in 1834, was 70 ; and of
schools not parochial 194. The total number of
children at these schools was about 15,000. The
Gaelic language still predominates here ; but the
English is almost universally understood by the
natives.
A number of islands are attached to this county,
of which the chief are Muck, Tyree, Coll, Mull,
LlSMOKE, ISLAY, JuRA, CoLONSAY, STAFF A, IcOLM-
kill, &c, which will be severally described under
their respective articles. The principal towns are In-
verary, which is the county-town, Campbelton, and
Oban : See these articles. These three burghs unite
with Ayr and Irvine, in Ayrshire, in returning one
member to parliament ; the county returns another,
and has been represented by Campbell of Shaw-
ficld and Islay since 1835. The parliamentary u>n-
ARI
61
ARR
stituency, in 1838, was 1,589. Argyle gives the title
of Duke and Earl to the chief of the family of Camp-
bell, one of the most powerful of the Scottish no-
liility. The county is mostly peopled with this clan ;
and its principal proprietors are of it. The valued
rent of the county, in 1674, was £149,595 10s. Scots;
the real rent, as assessed in 1815, .£"227,493 sterling.
Previous to the late equalization of weights and
measures, the Inverary boll of grain contained 4 fir-
lots 7j per cent, above the standard, or 6 bushels, 1
peck, 9 pints, 10 cubic inches English ; and the boll
of meal, at Inverary, 8 stone; at some other parts 9
stone ; and at Campbelton 10 stone. The Camp-
belton potatoe peck weighed 56 lbs. avoird., and
measured 9 English wine gallons ; while the Inver-
ary peck measured only 6J gallons. The customary
pint contained 10987 cubic inches ; the pound at
Campbelton 16 oz., and at Inverary, 24 ; the stone
of butter, cheese, hay, lint, tallow, and wool, Was 24
tbs. avoird. ; and the barrel of herrings 32 gallons
English.
Argyleshire is said to derive its name from Earrd
Ghaidheal, ' the country of the western Gael.' It
W3S much infested, in ancient times, by predatory in-
truders, and has been in consequence the scene of
numerous battles and heroic achievements. The
deeds of Fingal and his heroes — if we may repose any
confidence in the voice of Tradition — were mostly
performed in this district ; and numerous monuments
of the remotest antiquity still remain to demonstrate
the warlike spirit of its former inhabitants. In the
middle ages the Macdougals of Lorn held sway over
Argyle and Mull ; while the Macdonalds, Lords of
the Isles, were supreme in Islay, Kintyre, and the
southern islands. These two chiefs were almost in-
dependent thanes, until their power was broken by
James III., and by the transference of Lorn to the
Stuart family by marriage. The erection of the
earldom of Argyle in favour of Campbell of Loch
Awe, in 1457, also greatly contributed to check the
discords of the petty chieftains throughout this ter-
ritory. The dukedom of Argyle was created in 1701.
ARIENAS (Loch), a small inland sheet of water
in the district of Morvem, Argyleshire. See Aline
(Loch).
ARISAIG. See Akasaig.
ARKEG. See Archaic.
ARMADALE, a hamlet in the parish of Sleat,
on the southern shore of the isle of Skye, opposite
the mouth of Loch Nevis on the mainland. Lord
Macdonald has an unfinished seat here, in the cas-
tellated style. It commands a noble view, and is
surrounded by thriving plantations. There is a road
from hence to the Point of Sleat.
ARMADALE, or Arjiidale, a village and her-
ring fishing-station in the parish of Farr, Sutherland-
shire. This is one of the safest landing-points on
the coast.
ARMADALE, a hamlet in the parish of Bath-
gate, Linlithgowshire, 2£miles west of Bathgate, on
the road from Edinburgh to Glasgow.
ARNGASK, a parish lying in the three counties
of Perth, Kinross, and Fife. It is nearly of a circu-
lar form, and about 4 miles in diameter ; and is
bounded by the parishes of Strathmiglo, Abernethy,
Dron, Forgandenny, Forteviot, and Orwel. Popu-
lation, in 1801, 564; in 1831, 712.— This parish is
in the presbytery of Perth, and synod of Perth and
Stirling. Patrons, Mrs. Wardlaw, and the laird of
Fordells. Minister's stipend £178 19s. 10d., with a
manse and glebe. Schoolmaster's salary £34, with
about £20 fees. There is a private school in the
parish. The church was originally a chapel built
for the accommodation of the family of Balvaird,
and their dependents. It was granted, in 1282, to
the abbey of Cambuskenneth by Gilbert de Frisley
to whom the barony of Arngask, or Forgie, belonged.
Real value, in 1815. of that part of the parish which
is in Perthshire, £1,164; in Fifeshire, £895; in
Kinross-shire, £875. Total, £2,934.
ARNISDALE. See Glenelg.
ARNTULLY, or Arntilly, a little irregularly
built village in the south-western part of the parish
of Kinclaven, 8 miles north of Perth.
AROS, a hamlet in the island of Mull, and parish
of Killninian, at the confluence of the water of Aros
with the sound of Mull, 18 miles north-west of
Achnacraig ferry, and 4 miles from the head of Loch-
na-Keal, to which there is a road from this place.
The massive remains of Aros castle, an ancient
stronghold of the Lords of the Isles, crowns the sum-
mit of a high rocky peninsula here.
ARRAN,* an island in the frith of Clyde, forming
part of the shire of Bute. It lies in the mouth of
the frith, or in the centre of the large bay of the
Northern channel formed by the peninsula of Kin-
tyre on the west, and the Ayrshire coast on the east ;
from the former it is distant about 6 miles, and is
separated by the sound of Kilbrannan ; from the lat-
ter, the average distance is about 13 miles, and the
channel betwixt them is distinguished from the sound
on the west of the island as being the frith of Clyde.
From the island of Bute on the north, the least dis-
tance is 5 miles. Its greatest length, from the Cock
of Arran, on the north, to the Struey rocks on the
south, is about 26 miles ; and the greatest breadth,
from Clachland's point on the east, to Drimodune
point on the west, is 12 miles, f The general outline
is that of an irregular ellipse, little indented by bays
or inlets. The largest indentation is that of Lam-
lash bay betwixt Clachland's point and King's cross
point, on the east coast. Loch Ranza, near the
Cock, or northern extremity of the island, is a very
small inlet. Brodick bay, a little to the north of
Lamlash bay, between Corriegill point on the south,
and Merkland point on the north, affords good an-
chorage in about 5 fathoms water, but little shelter
to vessels, especially in a north-east gale. Including
the islet of Pladda on the south, and Holy isle in the
mouth of Lamlash bay, the area of Arran is about
100,000 Scots acres, of which 11,179 are arable, and
613 are under plantations. There is also a consider-
able extent of natural coppice-wood on the north-
west and north-east coast. The south end of the
island is remarkably destitute of any thing approach-
ing to plantation, and even of copsewood.
The island of Arran is divided into five principal
districts : viz., Brodick, Lamlash, Southend, Shis-
kin, and Loch Ranza.
The Brodick district is that portion of the island
most frequently visited by tourists, and most gen-
erally resorted to for sea-bathing. It lies around the
bay of the same name, and extends northwards to
* Pronounced in Gaelic Artinn. Dr. lUaeleod deduces this
name from Ar, ' a land1 or 'country,' and rinn, 'sharp points.'
Hence Arrinn will signify ' the Island uf snarp pinnacles :' an
etymology far more satisfactory than that of Ar-f/iiii, 'the
Laud' or the Field of Finn,' i. e. Fingal ; or from Aran,
'bread,' as denoting extraordinary fertility, which is by no
means a characteristic of this island.
f Headrick estimates the length of this island, measuring
from N. E. to S. W., at 34 or 35 miles ; and its breadth as vary-
ing from 15 to 20 miles. Mr. Jardine states its length to be
only 21 miles, and its breadth 9. Professor Jamieson, in his
' Outliue of the Mineralogy of Arran,' estimates its length at
82, and breadth at 12 miles. The writer of the article Arran,
in the * Penny Cyclopedia,' vagoely estimates its length -from
near Loch Ranza, in the N. N. W., to Kildonan, in the S. S. E.,
at " somewhat more than 20 miles ; and its greatest breadth at
12." The Rev. Angns Macmillan, minister of Kilmorie, in his
evidence before the Commissioners of Religious Instruction,
[Report VIII. p. 470.,] states the greatest length of his parish
to be upwards of 3:) miles. The admeasurements in our text
have been given after a careful examination and comparison of
the best maps aud reports on the island.
62
ARRAN.
South Sannox. Its northern part is composed of
the towering Goatfell, and its brother-mountains ;
and the beautiful glens or mountain-ravines called
Glen Rosa or Rossie, Glen Sherrig, Glen Shant, and
Glen Cloy, occur here. The base of the mountains
here approaches close to the sea, so that the full
effect of their altitude — which in Gor.tfell is 2,865
feet* — imposes itself on the eye of the spectator from
the sea or beach, while they are constantly varying
their appearance, as seen from any quarter, under
the accidents of weather, light, and shade. The lower
part of Goatfell is composed of red sandstone ; then
follows mica-slate, which is surmounted by a pyra-
midal mass of granite. The view from the sum-
mit embraces the coast of Ireland from Fairhead to
Belfast loch ; and the mountains of Isla, Jura, and
Mull. The ascent may be accomplished, with the aid
of a guide, in about two hours ; and is best achieved
from the inn at Brodick. The natives call this moun-
tain Gaodli Bhein, or Ben-Ghaoil, that is 'the
Mountain of Winds.' To the eye of a spectator on
the summit of Goatfell — which is the loftiest peak in
this granitic district — the neighbouring mountains
present a wild assemblage of bare ridges, yawning
chasms, abrupt precipices, and every fantastic form of
outline, while the profound gulfs between them are
darkened by eternal shadow On the north side
of Brodick bay, adjoining the village, is the castle
of Brodick, one of the seats of the duke of Ham-
ilton. It is an old irregular pile of building, of
secluded aspect, but in good repair. Mr. Galbraith has
recently ascertained its position to be in N. lat. 55° 35'
45" ; W. long. 5° 10' 42". The grounds around it are
well-wooded ; and the majestic heights of Goatfell,
and Bennish [2.598 feet], rise in the immediate back-
ground. This stronghold was surprised by James
Lord Douglas, Sir Robert Boyd, and other partizans
of Bruce in 1306, demolished in 1456, rebuilt by
James V., and garrisoned by Cromwell. Cromwell's
garrison, to the number of 80 men, it is traditionally
related, were surprised and cut off by the natives. —
On the opposite side of the bay, and at about one mile's
distance from the sea, in Glen Cloy, is Kilmichael, the
seat of John Fullarton, Esq., whose immediate an-
cestors received this estate, and a farm on the west
side of the island, from Robert Bruce, for services
rendered to him while in concealment in this island.
Martin says : " If tradition be true, this little family-
is said to be of seven hundred years standing. The
present possessor obliged me with the sight of his
old and new charters, by which he is one of the
king's coroners within this island, and as such, he
hath a halbert peculiar to his office ; he has his right
of late from the family of Hamilton, wherein his
title and perquisites of coroner are confirmed to him
and his heirs. He is obliged to have three men to
attend him upon all public emergencies, and he is
bound by his office to pursue all malefactors, and to
deliver them to the steward, or in his absence to the
next judge. And if any of the inhabitants refuse to
pay their rents at the usual term, the coroner is
bound to take him personally, or to seize his goods.
And if it should happen that the coroner with his
retinue of three men is not sufficient to put his office
in execution, then he summons all the inhabitants to
concur with him ; and immediately they rendezvous
to the place, where he fixes his coroner's staff. The
perquisites due to the coroner are a firlot or bushel
ot oats, and a lamb from every village in the isle ; both
which are punctually paid him at the ordinary terms."
[' Description of the Western Islands.'] Fergus Mac-
Louis, or Fullarton 's, charter is dated Nov. 26, 1307.
* This in Dr. Maccullncli's admeasurement. Professor Play.
fair estimates its height at 8,945 j Mr. Galbraith at 2,80a feet.
A number of cottages and villas are scattered along
Brodick bay, which is becoming a favourite watering-
place during the summer. Dr. Macculloch speaks of
it in. terms of unwonted rapture. "Every variety
of landscape," be says, " is united in this extraor-
dinary spot. The rural charms of the ancient English
village, unrestricted in space and profuse of unoccu-
pied land, are joined to the richness of cultivation,
and contrasted with the wildness of moorland and
rocky pasture. On one hand is the wild mountain
torrent, and on another, the tranquil river meanders
through the rich plain. Here the sea curls on the
smooth beach, and there it foams against a rocky
shore, or washes the foot of the high and rugged cliffs,
or the skirts of the wooded hill. The white sails of'
boats are seen passing and repassing among trees, —
the battlements of the castle, just visible, thro wan air
of ancient grandeur over the woods, and, united to
this variety, is all the sublimity and all the rudeness
of the Alpine landscape which surrounds and involves
the whole." [' Highlands and Western Isles,' vol.
ii. p. 29.] There is regular steam-communication
between Brodick and the port of Ardrossan in Ayr-
shire daily during summer ; but this route to Glas-
gow is circuitous, and there is a want of direct daily
communication with that city, steamers proceeding
to Arran twice a week. These latter boats general-
ly make Brodick bay in about 6 or 7 hours, and,
after discharging passengers, proceed round to Lain-
lash bay, where they lie during the night, returning
to Brodick for passengers at an early hour next
morning.
Lamlash district, to the south of Brodick district,
has but a small extent of plantation within it, and
no hills exceeding 1,200 feet in altitude. The vil-
lage is in the form of a crescent facing the bay and
the Holy isle, and backed by wooded heights, be-
yond which the green and rounded summits of the
hills in this district are seen. The church is at the
southern extremity of the village, which is 4^- miles
distant from Brodick, and 4 miles north of Whiting
bay. See article Kilbride. — " The bay of Lamlash,"
says Headrick, " may be about 3 miles, in a right
line, from its northern to its southern entrance; and
at its centre it forms a sort of semicircle of nearly 2
miles across, having the Holy isle on one side, and
the vale of Lamlash on the other. The northern
wing projects nearly towards north-east, while the
southern projects nearly towards south-east, giving
to the whole a figure approaching to that of a horse-
shoe, which prevents the waves of the ocean Irom
getting into the interior bay. The two inlets may
be about a quarter of a mile in breadth at their
mouths, and widen gradually as they approach the
central bay. The southern inlet is prefeired by
mariners, because here there is no danger but what
is seen. The northern inlet is equally safe to those
who know it: but the tails of rocks we have de-
scribed as projected from Dun-Fioun, and the gradual
decrease of altitude of the rocks on the opposite
point of Holy isle, cause them to extend a consider-
able way below the sea, before they sink out of the
reach of vessels drawing a great depth of water.
But to those who know the channel, there is suffi-
cient depth, at both entrances, for the largest ships
of the line. Within, there is good holding-ground ;
sufficient depth for the largest ships ; and room
enough for the greatest navy to ride at anchor. In
fact, this is one of the best harbours in the frith ot
Clyde, — if not in the world. In front of the village,
dutchess Ann — who seems to have been a woman of
superior capacity — caused a harbour to be built of
large quadrangular blocks of sandstone. We may
form some idea of the magnitude and solidity of this
work, when informed that it cost 412,913 10s. S^d
ARRAN.
G3
sterling, at a time when masons' wages are said to
have been 8d., and labourers' wages 4d. per day. It
is a great pity this building was allowed to be de-
molished ; because its ruins render the village of more
difficult access from the sea, than if it had never been
constructed.' [' View,' pp. 88 — 91.] This harbour
has now nearly disappeared ; agreat part of the stones
have been carried off to build the new quay a few hun-
dred yards to the north, and the sand has buried a part.
' The Holy isle is interesting," says Macculloch, " as
well for the beauty of its conical form, rising to 1,000*
feet, as for the view from its summit, and the strik-
ing character of its columnar cliffs. The ascent is
rendered peculiarly laborious ; no less from the steep-
ness and irregularity of the ground, than from the
tangled growth of the Arbutus uva ursi by which it
is covered. The whole surface scarcely bears any
other plant than this beautiful trailing shrub ; pe-
culiarly beautiful when its bright scarlet berries are
present to contrast with the rich dark green of its
elegant foliage. The columnar cliffs, which lie on
the east side, though having no pretensions to the
regularity of Staffa, are still picturesque, and are
free from the stiffness too common in this class of
rock ; consisting of various irregular stages piled on
each other, broken, and intermixed with ruder masses
of irregular rocks, and with verdure and shrubs of
humble growth. Beneath, a smooth and curved re-
cess in a mass of sandstone, produces that species of
echo which occurs in the whispering gallery of St.
Paul's, and in other similar situations. There are
no ruins now to be traced in Lamlash ; but Dean
Monro says that it had ' ane monastery of friars,'
founded by John, Lord of the Isles, ' which is de-
cayit.' That was in 1594; and what was then de-
cayed, has now disappeared. He calls the island
Molass ; and it is pretended that, there was a cave,+
or hermitage, inhabited by a Saint Maol Jos, who is
buried at Shiskin, on the south side of Arran. It is
further said that there was once a castle here, built
by Somerlid." — -King's Cross, in this district, which
forms the dividing headland between Lamlash bay and
Whiting bay, is said by some to have been the point
from whence Robert Bruce watched for the lighting-
Lip of the ' signal-flame ' at Turnberry point, on the
opposite coast of Ayrshire, which was to intimate to
him that the way was clear for his making a descent
on the Carrick coast. Other traditions — which are
followed by Sir Walter Scott in his ' Lord of the
Isles.' [See Canto V. st. 7 and 17-] — represent Bruce
as first hailing the supposed signal, 'so flickering,
fierce, and bright,' from the battlements of Brodick
castle. See Turnberry.
Southend district stretching from Largybeg point,
the southern extremity of Whiting bay, to Kilpatrick
on Diimodune bay, is the most valuable district of
the island in agricultural respects. There is here a
belt of cultivated land, in some places of considerable
breadth, between the shore and the secondary hills
of the interior. The scenery is of a milder character
thai, that of any other quarter of the island ; but there
is no accommodation for bathers in this direction, the
only houses being a few farm.hamlets and scattered
shielings, and the beach being rocky. This district
is intersected by two main rivulets, viz. the Torlin
or Torrylin, towards the east, and the water of.Slid-
dery towards the west. These streams run nearly
parallel to each other, from north-east to south-west,
and receive numerous tributary streams in their pro-
gress from the secondary mountains towards the sea.
Most of the other burns which flow into the sea are
* Mr. Burrcl's barometrical admeasurement gave only 891
feet.
t Headrick affirms the existence of and describes this cave.
See ' View,1 p. Bb.
merely mountain-torrents, the beds of which are
nearly dry except when they are swelled by exces-
sive rains. These burns have cut deep chasms or
ravines in the strata ; and the main streams have
frequently formed delightful valleys, though some-
times of small extent. Towards the head of Glen
Scordel, from which the main branch of the water of
Sliddery flows, and in several other places, there are
vast veins of whinstone, interspersed with innumer-
able particles of pyrites, which retain their full bril-
liancy, in spite of exposure to air and the astringent
moss- water to the action of which they are subjected.
" These," says Headrick, " the people are confident
in the belief of being gold ; and I confess I was a little
staggered, until my ingenious friend, Dr. Thomson,
by analyzing a specimen, assured me that the gold was
neither more nor less than pyrites of iron!- — The islet
of Pladda lies opposite Kildonan point in this division.
See Pladda. The ruins of Kildonan castle, a small
square fortalice, surmount the sea-bank here', but
present no historical associations of interest. A large
portion of the walls fell about 10 years ago. — Auch-
inhew burn, in this quarter, presents, according to
Headrick, in the upper part of its wild ravine course,
a fall or cascade, called Essiemore The Struey
rocks, further to the west, or Bennan head, are pre-
cipitous cliffs of black basalt rising to an altitude of
from 300 to 400 feet above a beach thickly strewn
with their dissevered fragments. A little to the west
of these rocks is a vast cave called the Black cave ■
The kirk and manse of Kilmorie are situated in this
district, on the Torrylin, where its mouth forms a
small harbour for boats. See Kilmorie.
Shiskin district, so called from the little village or
hamlet of Shiskin, or Shedog, is chiefly remarkable
for the extensive natural caves which occur here in
the sandstone rocks close upon the beach. One of
these, called the King's cove, is supposed to have
given shelter to 'the royal Bruce.' It is situated
opposite Portree in Higher Cardel of Kintyre. It is
also universally reputed to have been the occasional
residence of Fioun,:]: or Fingal, when he resorted to
Arran for the purpose of hunting. " The old peo-
ple here," says Headrick, "have many ridiculous
stories about Fioun and his heroes, which have been
transmitted, from a remote period, by father to son, —
in their progress becoming more and more extrava-
gant. They believe Fioun and his heroes to have
been giants of extraordinary size. They say that
Fioun made a bridge from Kintyre to this place,
over which he could pass, by a few steps, from the
one land to the other. But, what is esteemed ocular
demonstration of the gigantic size of Fioun, and suffi-
cient to overwhelm the most obstinate scepticism,
the hero is said to have had a son born to him in the
cave; and a straight groove, cut on the side of the
cave, is shown, which is firmly believed to have been
the exact length of the child's foot the day after he
was born. The groove is more than 2 feet in length ;
and, taking the human foot to be one sixth of a man's
height, it follows, the child must have been more
than 12 feet high the day after he was born ! The
cave is scooped out of fine-giained white sandstone.
A perpendicular vein of the same sandstone has stood
in the centre, from which the strata dip rapidly on
each side, forming the roof into a sort of Gothic
arch, to which the vein above serves the purpose of
a key-stone. At the back part of the cave, this ve:n
comes down to the bottom, and forms a perpendicu-
lar column with a recess on each side. The northern
X Fioun means fair-haired ; Gael was added to denote his
race or nation. Highlanders seldom apply the epithet Gael to
Fioun, unless you express doubts concerning bis extraction.
But they often characterize him by the surname of MacCoul,
the name of his father. — Headrick.
64
ARRAN.
recess is only a few feet. The southern is of uncer-
tain extent, being gradually contracted in breadth,
and nearly closed by rounded stones. The length of
this recess is about 30 feet. From the pillar in the
back-ground, to the mouth of the cave, exceeds 100
feet. The greatest breadth may be about 49 feet ;
and the greatest height the same. The mouth has
been defended by a rampart of loose stones ; and
stones are scattered through the cave which seem to
have been used as seats. On the column there is a
figure cut resembling a two-handed sword. Some
think this was an exact representation of the sword
of Fioun ; others of that of Robert Bruce. To me
it appears to be neither one nor other, but a repre-
sentation of the cross. It stands upon a rude outline
representing a mountain, probably Mount Calvary.
On each side there is a figure kneeling and praying
towards the cross. The sides of the cave exhibit
innumerable small figures equally rude, representing
dogs chasing stags, and men shooting arrows at them.
They also represent goats, sheep, cattle, and various
other animals, though the figures are so rude, that it
is seldom possible to ascertain what they represent."
Mr Jamiesbn, [p. 125,] thinks these scratches were
" made by idle fishermen, or smugglers." Maecul-
loch calls them "casual scratches by idle boys."
North of this cave are several smaller caves, which
communicate with each other. One of these is call-
ed the King's kitchen, another his cellar, his larder,
&c. On the south side there is a cave called the
King's stable, presenting a larger area than the pal-
ace, as the cave of residence is called. The scene
from the mouth of these caves, in a fine summer-day,
is very beautiful. And sweet it were to sit here — ■
" When still and dim
The beauty-breathing hues of eve expand j
"When day's last roses fade on Ocean's brim,
And Nature veils her brow, and chants her vesper-hytnu."
The Blackwater, a considerable stream, here falls
into Drimodune bay. A small harbour has been con-
structed at its mouth, which is the ferrying-place to
Campbelton, and from which there is a road across
the island, by Shedog, the western side of Craigvore,
Corbie's craig, Glen Ture, and Glen Sherrig, to Bro-
dick.— The Mauchry burn is another considerable
stream descending from Glen Ture, and falling into
Mauchry bay to the north of the King's cove. Pen-
nant tells us that this river flows through a rocky
channel, which, in one part has worn through a rock,
and left so contracted a gap at the top as to form a
very easy step across. " Yet not long ago," he adds,
" a poor woman in the attempt, after getting one foot
over, was struck with such horror at the tremendous
torrent beneath, that she remained for some hours in
that attitude, not daring to bring her other foot over,
till some kind passenger luckily came by and assisted
her out of her distress !"
The remaining or northern portion of the island
forms the Loch Ranza district, extending from Auch-
nagallen, a little to the north of the Mauchry burn,
round, by the Cock of Arran, to Corrie point on the
east coast. This is a highly interesting district in
point of scenery. The road by the shore presents a
succession of beautiful views; and the village or
namlet of Loch Ranza itself is one of the most
picturesque spots any where to be found in the
western islands. It has a safe harbour formed by a
natural inlet of (he sea in the mouth of the valley or
glen. Pennant, who crossed over to this bay from
the Argyle coast, says: " The approach was magni-
ficent; a fine bay in front, about a mile deep, having
a ruined castle near the lower end, on a low far pro-
jecting neck of land, that forms another harbour,
with a narrow passage ; but within has three fathom
of water, even at the lowest ebb. Beyond is a little
plain watered by a stream, and inhabited by the peo-
ple of a small village. The whole is environed with
a theatre of mountains ; and in the back-groud the
serrated crags of Grianan-Athol soar above." [Tour
to the Western Isles, p. 191-2.] Lord Teignmouth,
who saw Loch Ranza under its winter-aspect, says :
" In point of gloomy grandeur no British bay sur-
passes Loch Ranza. Dark ridges hem it in."" We
are quite sure that gloomy grandeur is not the com-
mon impression left by this scene on the eye and
mind of the visitor. While residing here in summer
we have often felt the beauty and truth of the sen-
timent conveyed in the hard's description of the ap.
proach of Bruce's little armament to this point of
' Arran 's isle:' —
"The sun, ere yet he sunk behind
Ben-Ghoil, 'the Mountain of the Wind,'
Gave his grim peaks a greeting kind,
And hade Loch Ranza smile.
Thither their destined course they drew ;
It seein'd tile isle her monarch knew,
So brilliant was the landward view,
The ocean so serene ;
Each puny wave in diamonds roll'd
O'er the calm deep, where hues of gold
With azure strove and green.
The hill, the vale, the tree, the tower,
Glow'd with the tints of evening's hour ;
The beach was silver sheen ;
The wind breathed soft as lover's sigh,
And, oft renew'd, seein'd oft to die,
With breathless pause between.
O who, with speech of war and wnes,
Would wish to break the soft repose
Of such enchanting scene !"
Glen Sannox in this district has been compared to
the celebrated Glencoe. " It is," says Macculloch,
"the sublime of magnitude, and simplicity, and ob-
scurity, and silence. Possessing no water, except
the mountain torrents, it is far inferior to Coruisk
in variety ; equally also falling short of it in gran-
deur and diversity of outline. It is inferior too in
dimensions, since that part of it which admits
of a comparison, does not much exceed a mile in
length. But, to the eye, that difference of dimen-
sion is scarcely sensible : since here, as in that valley,
there is no scale by which the magnitude can be de-
termined. The effect of vacancy united to vastness
of dimension is the same in both: there is the same
deception, at first, as to the space ; which is onlv
rendered sensible by the suddenness with which we
lose sight of our companions, and by the sight of
unheard torrents. Perpetual twilight appears to
reign here, even at mid-day : a gloomy and grey at-
mosphere uniting, into one visible sort of obscurity,
the only lights which the objects ever receive, re-
flected from rock to rock, and from the clouds which
so often involve the lofty boundaries of this valley."
No one should visit Arran without attempting to
make themselves acquainted with the beauty of the
coast-scenery from Brodick to Glen Sannox ; and,
if time permits, to travel from Sannox to Loch Ran-
za, through Glen Halmidel, the excursion will not be
regretted There is a small chapel at Loch Ranza,
built about 60 years ago at the expense of the duke
of Hamilton, on the boundary between Kilmorie and
Kilbride parishes, but within the former parish. It
is distant, by the road, about 24 miles from Kilmorie
church, and about 12 from the boundary of Shiskin
district. The salary of the minister is £41', secured
by a deed of mortification executed by Ann, Duchess
of Hamilton, bearing date, 1st April, 1710.
The climate of Arran is moist, but is considered
mild and healthy. Sudden anil heavy falls of rain ir.
summer and autumn are its greatest disadvantages.
Many greenhouse-plants stand the winter in the open
air at Brodick castle, and at different villas along the
coast There are no foxes, badgers, or weasels, in
Arran ; but the brown rat is very destructive. Red
ARR
65
ARR
deer exist in the northern part of the island. Black
and red grouse are abundant ; and there are a few
pheasants. Eagles are frequently seen here ; we
have ourselves in the course of a single day seen no
less than four of these noble birds. Trout are
numerous ; and fine sea-trout are occasionally taken
in the Jorsa, and Loch Jorsa. Adders and snakes are
said by Headrich to be very numerous, but we have
seldom s£en either species of reptile on this island. |
The botany of Arran is considered rich The geog- j
nostic structure of this island has been elaborately
examined by Professor Jamieson, in his * Outline of
the Mineralogy of the Shetland islands, and the island j
of Arran.' The greater portion of the northern part
of the island consists of primitive rocks; floetz rock
constitutes the southern half. The Goatfell group
is of granite. Holy isle consists of a mass of basalt. !
Porphvritic rocks are found at Lamlash, Drimodune,
and some other places; and pitch-stone frequently
occurs both in beds and veins.
The ecclesiastical statistics of Arran will be de-
tailed under the articles Kilbride and Kiljiorie.
There are six parochial schools in the island. The
population, in 1801, was 5,179; in 1821, 6,541 ; and
in 1831, 6,427: the decrease in the last decennial
period was chiefly occasioned by the emigration of
above 400 people, principally from Sannox district,
to Lower Canada. — The proprietors of this island
are the Duke of Hamilton, the Hon. Mrs. Westenra,
and Fullarton of Kilmichael and Whitefarlane. The
duke is by far the greatest proprietor. His grace's
arable land, in 1813, was 10,228 Scots acres ; and
his present rental .£10,000, arising from 458 farms
or possessions. [See a valuable paper, by Mr. John
Paterson, in the ' Prize-essays of the Highland So-
ciety,' vol. v. pp. 125 — 154.]
We have already, in the course of this article, had
occasion to notice the various traditions which exist
in Arran respecting Fingal ; and may now suggest
that some of these may owe their origin to the early
presence of the Norwegians, called Fiongall, or
' white foreigners,' by the Irish annalists. Somerled,
thane of Argyle in the 12th century — whose name
has also occurred in this article — appears to have been
of Scoto-Irish descent. His father Gillibrede had
possessions on the mainland of Argyle, probably in
the district of Morvern. When yet a youth, Somer-
led signally defeated a band of Norse pirates ; and,
having obtained high reputation for his prowess and
skill in arms, was enabled ultimately to assume the
title of Lord or Regulus of Argyle, and to compel
Godred of Norway to cede to him what were then call-
ed the South isles, namely, Bute, Arran, Islav, Jura,
Mull, and the peninsula of Kintyre. On the death
of Somerled, in 1164, Mr. Gregory conjectures that
Arran was probably divided between his sons Regi-
nald and Angus, and may have been the cause of the
deadly feud which existed between them. [' History
of the Western Highlands and Isles,' Edin. 1836.
8vo. p. 17.] Angus, with his sons, fell in an engage-
ment with the men of Skye in 1210; whereupon
Dugall, another son of Somerled, and the ancestor
of the house of Argyle and Lorn, patronymically
called Macdougal, succeeded to his possessions. It
appears, however, that the kings of Norway con-
tinued to be acknowledged as the sovereigns of the
Isles, until their final cession to the Scottish crown
by Magnus of Norway, in July, 1266. Somerled's
descendants now became vassals of the king of Scot-
land for all their possessions ; but the islands of Man,
Arran, and Bute, were annexed to the Crown.
After the unfortunate battle of Methven, Kobert
Bruce lay for some time concealed, it is said, in Ar-
ran; and afterwards in the little island of Rachrin
on the northern coast of Ireland, whence he again
passed over to Arran with a fleet of 33 galleys, and
300 men, and joined Sir James Douglas, who, with
a band of Bruce 's devoted adherents, had contrived
to maintain themselves in Arran, and to seize the
castle of Brodick, then held by Sir John Hastings,
an English Unigbt; and here he projected his de-
scent on the Carrick coast. On the marriage of the
Princess Mary, eldest sister of James 111., to Sir
Thomas Boyd, eldest son of Lord Boyd, in 1466,
the island of Arran was erected into an earldom in
favour of Boyd; but upon the forfeiture of that
family, the house of Hamilton rose upon its ruins ;
and, a divorce having been obtained, the Countess or
Arran gave her hand to Lord Hamilton — to whom it
had been promised in 1454 — and conveyed with it
the earldom of Arran. [Tytler's History of Scot-
land, vol. iv. p. 227
ARROQUHAR, more commonly Arrochar, a
parish in the north-west corner of Dumbartonshire ;
bounded on the north by Stralhfillan in Perthshire ;
on the east by Perthshire and Loch Lomond to
Nether Inveruglass ; on the south by the parish of
Luss, from which it is separated by the Douglass
burn ; and on the west by the upper part of Loch
Long, and Argyleshire. The extent of the parish is
nearly 15 miles, exclusive of the farms of Ardleish
and Doune, which lie on the east side of Lochlo-
mond, at the northern end of it. The mean breadth
may be computed at 3 miles. Population, in 1801,
470; in 1831, 559. Assessed propertv, in 1815,
±'2,838. Houses 73. The Statistical report of 1839
states the area of the parish at 31,011 acres, of which
scarcely one-fiftieth are arable. A large portion is
covered with oak-coppice. This is a very picturesque
region ; it is mountainous throughout, and presents
some fine lake-scenery. The principal mountain
within the parish is Ben-Voirlich which, according
to Bone, has an altitude of 3,300 feet ; or, accord-
ing to the writer of the article Dumbartonshire, in
the Penny Cyclopaedia, of 3,3c0 feet, " that is," the
writer adds, " above 100 feet higher than the adja-
cent Ben-Lomond." But, according to the Ordnance
survey, its altitude is only 3, ISO feet ; while that of
Ben-Lomond is stated at 3,195 feet. It forms a
noble object in the landscape to the tourist ascend-
ing either Loch Lomond or Loch Long. Its position
is about 6 miles to the north of the head of Loch
Long, and 3 west of Ardvoirlich on Loch Lomond.
The principal streams within the parish are the Fal-
loch, descending from Glen Falloch into the head of
Loch Lomond; the Inveruglass from Loch-Sloy;
and the Douglass, which falls into Loch Lomond
opposite Rowardennan. The streams which fall into
Loch Long have a comparatively short course. — The
scenery of the upper part of Loch Lomond, in this
parish, is neither so extensive nor so magnificent as
towards the middle and lower end; it is, however,
of a wilder and more romantic character. The lake
is here narrow and river-like, as most of the Scottish
lakes are ; and the adjoining hills, broken and rug-
ged in their outlines, rise up at once abruptly and
precipitously from the water. Still, however, the
scenery is such as must afford high gratification to
every lover of the picturesque. The romantic and
varied shores, — the bold projecting headlands and
retiring bays, — the rugged and serrated hills, — and
* Arroquh-ir is a Celtic word which signifies a high or hilly
country. It is generally pronounced, in the Gaelic language,
Arrtrr, which is a contraction of Ardtliir, aid signifying high,
ana t'nir a country. The name is very descriptive ot the place,
which is high and mountainous, hav.ng very-little flat or arable
ground in it. £01d Statistical Account- 3 — Arrochar, Chalmers
says, appears as the name of this district in the rharters of the
13th century. It was called the Arachor of Luss, or the Upper
carucate of Land of Luss. " Aruchor," he adds, "seems to
have been a Gaelic term which was apuiied to a certain division
of land." ^Caledonia, vol. iii. p. 909,
ARR
66
ART
the numerous openings of the deep and lonely glens, —
form together a picture of peculiar and enchanting
interest ; the effect of which is heightened in a sur-
prising degree, when all the magic tints of its varied
surface are awakened by the brightness of a summer's
sun. Then, and then only, can it be seen in its full
effect. — In ancient times, the land forming the western
shore of Loch Lomond, from Tarbet upwards, and
the greater part of this parish, was inhabited by
'The wild Macfarlane's plaided clan.'
From Loch-Sloy, a small lake near the base of Ben-
Voirlich, which formed the gathering-place of the
clan, they took their slughorn or war-cry of ' Loch
Sloy ! Loch Sloy !' Loch Sluai, in Gaelic, signify-
ing ' the Lake of the Host or Army.' Their badge w as
a sprig of the Cloudberry hush. The remote ances-
tor of this clan is said to have been Farlan, a son of
one of the early Earls of Lennox ; and from him they
adopted their patronymic of M'Farlane. Though the
M'Gregors appear to have enjoyed a pre-eminence
in disturbing the Lowland districts, the M'Farlanes
were also in the practice of doing so as far as their
more limited numbers allowed. In 1587, they were
declared to be one of the clans for whom the chief was
made responsible. [Acta Pari. iii. 467.] In 1594,
they were denounced as being in the habit of com-
mitting theft, robbery, and oppression. [Ibid. iv. 71.]
And, in July, 1624, many of the clan were tried, and
convicted of theft and robbery. Some of them were
punished, some were pardoned, while others were re-
moved to the highlands of Aberdeenshire, and to
Strathaven in Banffshire, where they assumed the
names of Stewart, M'Caudy, Greisock, M'James, and
M'Innes. The lands have now passed entirely from
the chiefs of this clan ; and the house which they at one
time inhabited, was, for a considerable time, an inn
rented by the Duke of Argyle for the accommodation
of travellers proceeding from Tarbet, by Glencroe,
to Inverary. A new inn has, however, been built a
little further up the loch and the old inn is now, we
believe, a private residence. The inn commands a
fine view of the head of Loch Long which Gilpin
characterises as exhibiting " a simple and very sublime
piece of lake scenery." Immediately opposite rises
Ben Arthur, a huge mountain at the opening of
Glencroe, the naked rocky summit of which being
thought to bear some resemblance to the figure of a
shoemaker seated at work on his stool, has procured
for it the less-dignified appellation of The Cobler.
See Glencroe. Toward the lower part of the loch,
as seen from this point, the mountains decline in
gentle perspective, and, though not much varied in
form, are pleasing from their verdant covering and
the coppice which sprinkles their sides. Those por-
tions of the parish which lie along the western bank
of Loch Lomond, from Tarbet inn upwards to the
head, and around the upper part of Loch Long, are
best known to tourists. Arrochar inn is 17£ miles
from Helensburgh ; 22 from Dumbarton by way of
Luss; 14 from Cairndow; and 23J from Inverary.
Its distance from Tarbet on Loch Lomond is 2 miles.
The scenery of the road across the isthmus between
the two lochs is very striking and beautiful. See
Tarbet. During the summer season there is a
steamer daily from and to Glasgow, both by way of
Loch Lomond and Loch Long. The village is rapid-
ly increasing by the building of bathing- villas, which
are also rising in various directions around the head
of Loch Long. — The parish of Arroquhar is in the
synod of Glasgow and Ayr, and presbytery of Dum-
barton. It was originally an appendage of the parish
of Luss, and was disjoined from it in the year 1658.
The stipend, including the glebe, is ±'253 19s. 7d.
The church was built in 1733 ; the manse, in 1837.
Sir James Colquhoun of Luss, Bart., is patron, and
almost sole proprietor. There are two schools in
this parish, one parochial, the other endowed by Mr.
M'Murrich of Stuckgown, whose beautiful mansion
graces the banks of Loch Lomond in this parish. —
See articles Loch Lomond, and Loch Long.
ARTHUR, a name of frequent occurrence in
Scottish as well as Welsh and English topography,
and generally traced by the voice of Tradition to the
far-famed Arthur of romance. " It is amusing to re-
mark," savs Chalmers, in his elaborate 'Caledonia,'
[vol. i. p. 244,] "how many notices the North-British
topography furnishes, with regard to Arthur, whose
fame seems to brighten, as inquiry dispels the doubts
of scepticism, and archaiology establishes the certain-
ties of truth In Clydesdale, within the parish of
Crawford, there is Arthur's fountain : in 1239, there
was a grant of David de Lindsay to the monks of
Nevvbotle, of the lands of Brotberalwyn, in that dis-
trict, which were bounded, on the west part, ' a fonte
Arthuri usque ad summitate montis.' Chart. Nevv-
botle, N. 148 — The Welsh poets assign a palace to
Arthur, among the Northern Britons, at Penryn-
Ryoneth. In Lhuyd's Cornish vocabulary, p. 238,
Penrvn-rioneth is called, the seat of the Prince of
Cumbria : and see also Richard's Welsh Dictionary.
The British Penryn supposes a promontory, with some
circumstance which reduplicates its height ; and this
intimation points to Alcluyd, the well-known metro-
polis of the Romanized Britons, in Strathclyde. Now
a parliamentary record of the reign of David II., in
1367, giving a curious detail of the king's rents and
profits in Dunbartonshire, states the ' redditum as-
size Castri Arthuri.' MSS. Reg. House ; Paper-
Office. The castle of Dunbarton, therefore, was the
Castrum Arthuri, long before the age of David II.
See the site of Dunbarton, in Ainslie's Map of Ren-
frewshire. The Point of Cardross was the Rhyn-
ryonetb ; the castle of Dunbarton was the Pen-
rhyn-ryoneth. According to the British Triads, Ken-
tigern, the well-known founder of the church of Glas-
gow, had his episcopal seat at Pen-rhyn-ryoneth
The romantic castle of Stirling was equally suppos-
ed, during the middle ages, to have been the festive
scene of the round-table of Arthur. ' Rex Arthu-
rus,' says William of Worcester, in his Itinerary, p.
311. ' Custodiebat le round-table in castro de Styr-
lyng, aliter, Snowdon-west-castell.' The name of
Snowdon castle is nothing more than the Smia-dun
of the Scoto-Irish people, signifying the fort, or
fortified hill on the river, as we may learn from
O'Brien, and Shaw ; and the Snua-dun has been
converted to Snow-dun, by the Scoto-Saxon people,
from a retrospection to the Snow-don of Wales,
which is itself a mere translation from the Welsh. —
In Neilston parish, in Renfrewshire, there still re-
main Arthur-lee, Low Arthur-lee, and West Arthur-
lee Arthur's-oven, on the Carron, was known by
that name, as early, if not earlier, than the reign of
Alexander III. In 1293, William Gurlay granted to
the monks of Newbotle ' firmationem unius stagni
ad opus molendini sui del Stanhus quod juxta fur-
mim Arthuri infra baronium de Dunypas est.' Chart.
Newbotle, No. 239.— The name of Arthur's-Seat, at
Edinburgh, is said, by a late inquirer, ' to be only a
name of yesterday.' Yet, that remarkable height
had that distinguished name before the publication of
Camden's Britannia, in 1585, as we may see in p.
478; and before the publication of Major, in 1521,
as appears in fo. 28 ; and even before the end of the
15th century, as Kennedy, in his flyting with Dunbar,
mentions ' Arthur Sate or ony hicher hill.' Ram-
say's Evergreen, v. ii. p. 65 This is not the only
hill which bears the celebrated name of Arthur.
Not far from the top of Loch- Long, which separates
ART
67
ART
Argyle and Dunbarton, there is a conical hill that is
called Arthur's Seat. Guide to Loch Lomond, pi.
iii. A rock, on the north side of the hill of Dun-
barrow, in Dunnichen parish, Forfarshire, has long
tore, in the tradition of the country, the distinguish-
ed name of Arthur's Seat. Stat. Acco. v. i. p. 419.
In the parish of Cupar- Angus, in Perthshire, there
is a standing stone, called the Stone of Arthur;
near it is a gentleman's seat, called Arthur-stone ;
and not far from it is a farm, named Arthur's fold —
But, it is at Meigle, in the same vicinity, that the
celebrity of Arthur, and the evil fame of his queen
Venora, are most distinctly remembered. Pennant's
Tour, v. ii. p. 177-8 ; and Stat. Acco. v. i. p. 506 :
and above all, see Belleuden's Boece, fo. Ixvii', for
the origin of the popular fictions at Meigle, about
Arthur and Venora. — The Scottish chroniclers, Bar-
bour and Wyntown, were perfectly acquainted with
the Arthur of romance. We may easily infer, from
the local facts, that bis story must have been equally
known to Thomas of Ercildun, a century sooner.
In 1293, the monks of Newbotle knew how to make
a mill-dam, with the materials which they found on
the banks of the Canon. Sir Michael Bruce of
Stanhus thought it necessary, in 1743, to pull down
Arthur's Oon, one of the most curious remains of
antiquity, for the stones which it furnished, for build-
ing a mill-dam. The enraged antiquaries consigned
Sir Michael to eternal ridicule. See the Antiquary
Repertory, v. iii. p. 74-5. Sir David Lindsay, in
his ' Complaynt' of the Papingo, makes her take leave
of Stirling castle thus : —
Adew fair Snawdoun, with thy towris hie.
Thy chapell ruyall, park, and tabill round.'
And, in his ' Dreme,' he mentions his having diverted
James V., when young, with ' antique storeis and
deidis martial],
'Ot Hector, Arthur, and pentile Juline,
Of Alexander, and worthy Poinpeiua.'
This shows that the stories of Arthur were then
ranked among those of the most celebrated heroes
of antiquity." See article Meigle.
ARTHUR'S SEAT, the most eminent object,
perhaps, in the above numerous list, is a hill in the
immediate vicinity of Edinburgh, which rises to the
height of 822 feet above the level of the sea. It
commands a beautiful prospect on all sides, and forms
a principal and imposing object from every point of
approach to the capital of Scotland. The ascent is
usually made from the precincts of Holvrood, or, on
the opposite side, from Duddingstone village. Tak-
ing the former route, after crossing the boundary
walls of the lower park, we leave the ruins of St.
Anthony's chapel a little to the left. " A better
site for such a building," says Sir Walter Scott,
" could hardly have been selected ; for the chapel,
situated among the rude and pathless cliffs, lies in a
desert, even in the immediate vicinity of a rich, po-
pulous, and tumultuous capital; and the hum of the
city might mingle with the orisons of the recluses,
conveying as little of worldly interest as if it had
been the roar of the distant ocean. Beneath the
steep ascent on which these ruins are still visible,
was, and perhaps is, still pointed out, the place where
the wretch Nicol Muschat had closed a long scene of
cruelty towards his unfortunate wife, by murdering
her with circumstances of uncommon barbarity. The
execration in which the man's crime was held, ex-
tended itself to the place where it was perpetrated,
which was marked by a small cairn or heap of stones,
composed of those which each passenger had thrown
there in testimony of abhorrence, and on the prin-
ciple, it would seem, of the ancient British maledic-
tion— ' May you have a cairn for your burial-place.' "
[' Heart of Mid-Lothian.'] In Maitland's ' History
of Edinburgh,' [1753,] these ruins are described as
being 43^ feet long, 18 broad, and as many high,
with a tower 19 feet square. — By striking off to the
right, and pursuing an easy ascent over the green
sward, we may gain the summit of the fine bold ba-
saltic range called Salisbury crags, of which, says
our immortal novelist, " If I were to choose a spot
from which the rising or setting sun could be seen
to the greatest possible advantage, it would be that
wild path winding around the foot of the high belt
of semicircular rocks, called Salisbury crags, and
marking the verge of the steep descent which slopes
down into the glen on the south-eastern side of the
city of Edinburgh. The prospect, in its general
outline, commands a close-built, high-piled city,
stretching itself out in a form which, to a romantic
imagination, may be supposed to represent that of a
dragon; now a noble arm of the sea, with its rocks,
isles, distant shores, and boundary of mountains; and
now a fair and fertile champaign country, varied with
bill, dale, and rock, and skirted by the picturesque
ridge of the Pentland mountains. But as the path
gently circles around the base of the cliffs, the pros-
pect, composed as it is of these enchanting and sub-
lime objects, changes at every step, and presents
them blended with, or divided from, each other in
every possible variety which can gratify the eye and
the imagination. When a piece of scenery so beau-
tiful, yet so varied, — so exciting by its intricacy, and
yet so sublime, — is lighted up by the tints of morn-
ing or of evening, and displays all that variety of
shadowy depth, exchanged with partial brilliancy,
which gives character even to the tamest of land-
scapes, the effect approaches near to enchantment.
This path used to be my favourite evening and morn-
ning resort, when engaged with a favourite author,
or new subject of study." [' Heart of Mid-Lothian.']
— If the visitor's object be to accomplish the ascent
of the Seat, by pursuing the path formerly mentioned,
he will gain the summit of the hill with little diffi-
culty. We have heard of the ascent being accom-
plished from the turnstile in twenty minutes ; but
may well presume that few will be disposed to try
whether they can rival such a feat. To depict the scene
from the summit, we must employ the same living
pencil that has traced the landscape from the chapel
and the crags. " A nobler contrast there can hardly
exist than that of the huge city, dark with the smoke
of ages, and groaning with the various sounds of
active industry or idle revel, and the lofty and craggy
hill, silent and solitary as the grave; one exhibiting
the full tide of existence, pressing and precipitating
itself forward with the force of an inundation; the
other resembling some time-worn anchorite, whose
life passes as silent and unobserved as the slender
rill which escapes unheard, and scarce seen from the
fountain of bis patron-saint. The city resembles the
busy temple, where the modern Comus and Mam-
mon held their court, and thousands sacrifice ease,
independence, and virtue itself, at their shrine ; the
misty and lonely mountain seems as a throne to the
majestic but terrible genius of feudal times, where
the same divinities dispensed coronets and domains
to those who had heads to devise, and arms to exe-
cute bold enterprises." [' Introduction to the Chro-
nicles of the Canongate.'] — The rocky summit of this
hill is strongly magnetic. Mr. William Galbraitb
i first called the attention of scientific men to this
fact, in 1831, in a paper communicated by him to
the ' Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal ' [No.
XXII. p. 285.] He found the needle at some points
completely reversed.
ARTORNISH, a castle, and, in ancient times,
one of the principal strongholds of the Lords of the
ASH
68
ASS
Isles, in the district of Morvern, and nearly opposite
the bay of Aros in Mull. The ruins are now incon-
siderable, but the situation is wild and romantic in
the highest degree. From this castle, John de Yle,
designing himself Earl of Ross, and Lord of the Isles,
in 14b' 1, granted, in the style of an independent
sovereign, a commission to certain parties to enter
into a treaty with Edward IV. Sir Walter Scott
bas given the articles of this treaty in his Appendix to
' The Lord of the Isles,' [Note A.] — the opening scene
of which poem is laid in " Artornish hall," where
" tlie noble and the bold
of Island chivalry"
were assemhled to do honour to the nuptials of the
hapless " Maid of Lorn ;" and
" met from mainland and from isle,
Ross, Arran, Islay, and Argyle,
E-u'li minstrel's tributary lay
Paid homage to the festal day."
ASHKIRK, a parish in the counties of Roxburgh
and Selkirk; the greater part of it, however, in that
of Roxburgh. It is bounded on the north by Sel-
kirk ; on the east by Minto and Lilliesleaf ; on the
south by Roberton and Wilton ; and on the west by
Yarrow. It is about 7 miles long, and 3 broad. The
district may be called hilly, but most of the hills are
free from heath. The soil in general is light, and in
several parts spongy. A good deal has been done
here of late years in draining and planting. The
cultivated land amounts to about 2,800 acres; about
400 acres are under wood. The only river in the
parish is the Ale, which runs through it, in a narrow
valley, from west to east. But there are several
small lochs — none of them exceeding a mile in cir-
cumference— which discharge their waters into the
Ale, and contain trout, perch, and pike. See Ale-
moor (Loch). Population, in 1801, 574; in 1831,
565, of whom about 100 were dissenters, and 192
were resident in that portion of the parish which is
in Selkirkshire. Houses, 97- Assessed property,
£4,501. The land-rent, in 1796, was about £2,000;
in 1838, £4,479 7s. — This parish is in the presby-
tery of Selkirk, and synod of Merse and Teviot-
dale. It was formerly a vicarage belonging to the
chapter of Glasgow; and the greater number of the
present proprietors still hold of the college of
Glasgow. The bishop of Glasgow had a palace
here, of which the last relics have disappeared
within the memory of man. The parish itself was
in early times wholly divided amongst the family of
Scot. The church was built in 1791; sittings, 200;
stipend, £205 12s. 9d., with a manse, and a glebe
of the value of £27. Unappropriated teinds, £636
lis. 4d. Patron, the Earl of Minto. The parochial
schoolmaster has a salary of £30, with about £10
of school-fees, and some other emoluments, and a
house and garden. The average attendance on his
tuition is about 40.
ASKAIG (Port), a small haven on the north-
east coast of Islay, 11 miles distant from Bowmore,
and 35 from East Tarbert. There is a good inn
here, and the vicinity is well-wooded. Lead-mines
were at one time wrought a little to the north-west
of this place.
ASSYNT, or Assint, a very extensive district
and parish in the county of Sutherland, including
the quoad sacra parish of Stoer. The name is a
contraction of agus-int, literally ' in and out ;' and
is supposed to have been originally applied to it as
descriptive of its extraordinarily rugged surface and
broken outline. Its area is estimated at 1 00,000 acres ;
and its circumference at 90 miles. On the north it
is bounded by that arm of the sea called the Minch,
and by Loch Assynt, the Kylecuigh or Kyle Skou,
" across which a stone may be slung," and its ex-
tremities Loch Dow and Loch Coul. From the
eastern end of Loch Coul, an imaginary line, drawn
in a south-east direction across the summits of the
mountains to Glashben, completes the boundary be-
twixt Assynt and Eddrachillis parish. The boundary
line then turns south-west, for a distance of about 10
miles, dividing Assynt from Creech parish, and from
Ross-shire; it then assumes a north-west direction,
and passes by Loch Vattie, and Loch Faun or Loch
Fane, to In verkirkaig, where it meets the sea, dividing
Assynt, in this direction, from the shire of Cromarty.
The Kirkaig flows out of Loch Fane, and forms a tine
cascade at a point in its course about 2 miles from
the sea. The general course of the coast-line, from
the mouth of the Kirkaig to Ru-Stoer, — a distance of
20 miles, — is from south-south-east to north-north-
west, and presents " islands, bays, and headlands,
without end, but not a feature to distinguish one
from another, nor a cliff nor a promontory to tempt
a moment's stay;" all is dreary, desolate, and moun-
tainous. Locli Inver is a fishing-station, and pre-
sents a pretty good harbour. The Inver flows into
its head from Loch Assynt. The point of Stoer,
or the Ru-Stoer, is a remarkable detached mass of
sandstone, rising to the height of about 200 feet.
A little to the south of the Ru is Soay island, mea-
suring about 4 furlongs in length, by 3 in breadth.
It is flat, and covered with heather and coarse grass.
About a mile to the south of Soay, is the islet of
Klett The principal island belonging to Assynt is
that of Oldney or Oldernay, at the mouth of Loch
Assynt, which is divided from the mainland by a
channel in some parts not exceeding 20 yards in
width. It is about a mile in length, by 2 furlongs
in breadth ; and was inhabited, in 1836, by twelve
families.
The main line of road through this district enters
the parish, from the south, at Aultnacealgeich burn, 10
miles from the bridge of Oykell, at the upper end of
Loch Boarlan. A little beyond this, a road branches-
ofT to the west towards Crockan, whence there is a
road to Ullapool, on Loch Broom, 16 miles distant.
Pursuing the main line, we arrive at Ledbeg, whence
a detour may be made by the south side of Suilbhein
to Inverkirkaig, provided the traveller dare encoun-
ter a very rugged journey, presenting only one habi-
table shieling in its whole course, namely Brackloch
at the western end of Loch Caum, a very fine fresh
water loch. There is another, and a more dangerous
route in winter, between the Suilbhein and its moun-
tain-brother Cannishb or Canisp. After leaving Led-
beg we enter the glen of Assynt. This glen is very
narrow, and has various windings, so that one is quite
near the lake before being aware of it. Immediately
before arriving at it, a very singular ridge of rock
bounds the glen and the road on the right. This
ridge rises to a perpendicular height of 300 feet: it
is of blue limestone, and its mural surface has been
worn away in many places in such a manner as to
present the appearance of the windows, tracery, and
fret-work of an ancient cathedral. Alpine plants
and creeping-shrubs ornament with their graceful
drapery every crevice and opening of these lofty
rocks, and altogether create a scene of most pictur-
escme though fantastic beauty. At length on turn-
ing round the edge of this ridge, the traveller finds
himself at the village of Inch-na-damph, or Innesin-
damff, and the head of Loch Assynt. This lake is
about 16J miles in length, and 1 mile in greatest
breadth. It receives the waters of many mountain-
streams, and empties itself into Loch Inver, an arm
of the sea of which mention has already been made.
On the shores of Loch Assynt, near the village of
Inch-na-damph, there are quarries of white marble,
which were at one time wrought by an EngUshman;
ASSYNT.
69
but since his death they seem to be entirely neglected
and given up. If one may judge from the blocks
lying about, the marble seems to be pure and capa-
ble of receiving a high polish; but, from whatever
cause, it is now only used for building dry stone-dykes
and highland-cottages. " At Leadbeg," says Dr.
Macculloch, " I found the cottages built of bright
white marble : the walls forming a strange contrast
with the smoke and dirt inside, the black thatch, the
dubs, the midden, and the peat-stacks. This marble
has not succeeded in attaining a higher dignity." We
may mention having seen marble cottages at other
places besides Ledbeg, presenting the same strange
contrast which the Doctor here points out. Loch-
Assynt lies in a very pleasing green valley, thougli
it does not — except at its head and bevond the village
of Inch-na-damph — afford much of the picturesque or
the romantic. The mountain of Cunaig, however,
on the north side of the lake, and Bein-mhor or
Benmore, with the other mountains which terminate
the glen to the east, present scenes of much gran-
deur and magnificence. — The ancient castle of Ard-
vraick, and the ruined house of the Earls of Seaforth,
with the village and churchyard at the head of the
lake, give an interest to Loch-Assynt not often to
be felt among the inland waters of these northern
regions. Pursuing our route along the northern side
of the loch, we pass the ruins of Ardvraick castle,
situated on a rocky peninsula which projects a con-
siderable way into the lake. This castle was long
the residence of the Macleods, and in particular that
of Donald Bane More ; it was built in the year 1597,
or 1591, and must have been a place of strength in
ancient times. When the estate came into the Sea-
forth family, they erected a new mansion near the
shore of the lake. This mansion is also now in
ruins. " It was built," says the first Statistical re-
porter, "in a modern manner, of an elegant figure,
and great accommodation. It had fourteen bed-
chambers, with the conveniency of chimneys or fire-
places." The osprey {Pandinn halicelus) frequents
Assynt; and a pair have long built on the ruins of
Ardvraick castle — Adjoining to the present parish-
church, and within the buning-ground, near the vil-
lage of Inch-na-damph, are the remains of an ancient
Popish chapel, said to be the oldest place of worship
existing in this district. The occasion of its erection
is alleged to have been as follows. One jEneas or
Angus Macleod, an early laird of Assynt, had gone to
Rome, and had had the honour of an interview with
the Pope from whom he received various favours ;
on account of which he vowed that on his return he
would build and endow a chapel. This he did, and
extended his endowment in its favour to the fifth
part of his then yearly rental. At one time this
chapel consisted of two stories ; the ground one being
used for worship, and having an arched or vault-
ed roof. Above was a cell or chamber, which tra-
dition reports was a place set apart for private de-
votion. This upper cell, however, was removed
several years ago ; and the lower repaired for a burial
vault, for which purpose it is still used. It is the
property of Macleod of Geanies, the lineal descendant
of the ancient lairds of Assynt. On the farm of
Clachtoll are the remains of an ancient Druidical
temple. At Ledbeg a pruning-hook was found un-
der the moss several years since, the use of which
puzzled the natives of the place not a little. But
a late Earl of Bristol, then Bishop of Derry, happen-
ing to pass a few days here, pronounced it to be a
pruning-hook used by the Druids, with which they
yearly cut the sacred misletoe from the oak. This
relic of ancient superstition was presented by
Mrs. M'Kenzie of Ardloch to his lordship On
reaching the northern end of Loch Assynt, one branch
of the road turns westward to Loch Inver, following
the northern bank of the river Inver ; while another
branch runs north to Unapool on the Kylecuigh,
beyond which there is a ferry to Grinan, in Eddra-
chillis, whence it proceeds along the coast to Scourie
bay.
In the southern part of Assynt are several detach-
ed mountains of singular form. Dr. Macculloch has
written of them so correctly, and described them so
graphically, that although at some length, we must
furnish the reader with his remarks. In talking of
sandstone mountains, in his Geological work, he says :
" The independence of many of these hills forms
one of the most remarkable parts of the character of
this. rock. In many places, they rise suddenly from
a hilly land of moderate elevation composed of
gneiss; attaining at once to an height above it of
1,000 or 2,000 feet. They are often separated by
miles. In other cases, they are grouped, but still
distinct at their base. Where insulated, they have
a very striking effect, of which examples occur in
Sul-bhein, and Coul-bheg. Similarly powerful effects
result from the suddenness of their rise, — the summit,
with the whole declivity, being visible from the
base." Farther oh, in the same work, he sa\s, " It
might be expected that the pinnacled summits and
detached hills had resulted from the waste of the
erect varieties, but in Coul-bheg, Coul-more, Sul-
bhein, &c, they are produced by the wearing down
of strata nearly horizontal ; the harder portions, in
the former case, remaining like pillars of masonry or
artificial cairns. The west side of Sutherland and
Ross consists of a basis of gneiss, forming an irre-
gular and hilly surface, varying, in extreme cases,
from 100 to 1,500 feet in height, hut often present-
ing a considerable extent of table-land. Ou this
base, are placed various mountains, either far de-
tached, or collected in groupes ; and all rising to an
average altitude of about 3,000 feet above the sea.
The stratification of these is horizontal or* slightly-
inclined. It follows that the whole of this country
has been once covered with a body of sandstone,
equal in thickness — in certain points at least — to
the present remaining portions."
In his letters on the Highlands [Vol. ii. p. 345.]
again, he thus describes Suilbhein, "It loses no
part of its strangely incongruous character on a near
approach. It remains as lofty, as independent, and
as much like a sugar-loaf, (really not metaphorically,)
when at its foot as when far off at sea. In one re-
spect it gains, or rather the spectator does, by a more
intimate acquaintance. It might have been covered
with grass to the imagination; but the eye sees and
the hand feels that it is rock above, below, and
round about. The narrow front, that which possesses
the conical outline, has the appearance of a preci-
pice, although not rigidly so; since it consists of a
series of rocky cliffs piled in terraced succession
above each other; the grass} surfaces of uhich being
invisible from beneath, the whole seems one rude
and broken cliff, rising suddenly and abruptly from
the irregular table-land below to the height of a
thousand feet. The effect of a mountain thus seen,
is always striking; because, towering aloft into the
sky, it fills the eye and the imagination. Here, it is
doubly impressive from the wide and open range
around, in the midst of which this gigantic mass
stands alone and unrivalled, — a solitary and enormous
beacon, rising to the clouds from the far-extended
ocean-like waste of rocks and rudeness. Combining
in some positions, with the distant and elegant forms
of Canasp, Coul-bheg, and Ber.-More, it also offers
more variety than could be expected ; while even
the general landscape is varied by the multiplicity
of rocks and small lakes with which the whole countrv
70
ASSYNT.
is interspersed. The total altitude from the sea line
is probably about 2,500 feet ; the table-land whence
this and most other of the mountains of this coast
rise, appearing to have an extreme elevation of 1,500.
To almost all but the shepherds, Sul-bhein is inac-
cessible : one of our sailors, well-used to climbing,
reached the summit with difficulty, and had much
more in descending. Sheep scramble about it in
search of the grass that grows in the intervals of the
rocks : but so perilous is this trade to them, that
this mountain with its pasture — which, notwithstand-
ing its rocky aspect, is considerable — is a negative
possession ; causing a deduction of fifteen or twenty
pounds a-year from the value of the farm to which
it belongs, instead of adding to its rent." Notwith-
standing the difficulty of climbing Suilbhein which
the Doctor here mentions, we were told, when in
the country, by a highland gentleman residing near
Loch-Inver, that a young lady from Glasgow had as-
cended with him the year previous. We must con-
fess, however, that we should have had some hesita-
tion in making even the attempt. — At page 354 of
the same work, the Doctor gives the following de-
scription of Coul-bheg: " The whole of this coast,
from Coycraig in Assynt, as far as Ben-More at
Loch-Broom, presents a most singular mountain out-
line; but Coul-bheg is even more remarkable than
Sul-bhein, while its form is more elegant and ver-
satile. In every view, it is as graceful and majestic
as it is singular ; and, like the other mountains of
this extraordinary shore, it has every advantage that
can rise from independence of position ; rising a huge
and solitary cone, from the high land beneath, and
lifting its dark precipice in unattended majesty to
the clouds. The ascent from the shore to the base
of the rocky cone is long and tedious, over a land of
lakes and rocks ; but beyond that there is no access.
All around is barrenness and desertion ; except
where some lake, glittering bright in the sunshine,
gives life, — a still life, — to the scene : and the eye
ranges far and wide over the land, seeing nothing
but the white quartz summits of Canasp, Coycraig,
and Ben-More, — the long streams of stones that de-
scend from their sides, — and the brown waste of heath
around, interspersed with grey protruding rocks
that would elsewhere be hills, and with numerous
lakes that seem but pools amid the spacious desert."
In spite, however, of the many difficulties which must
attend a close examination of this land of moun-
tains and floods, the traveller who chooses to under-
go the fatigue, and to encounter the difficulties of
attempting to penetrate its recesses, will find much
to please, and still more to astonish him amidst its
gigantic and awful mountains and lonely valleys.
To those
"who love the pathless solitude
Where, in wild grandeur, Nature dwells alone
On the bleak mountain, and the unsculptured stone,
'Mid torrents, and dark range of forests wide,"
the solemn and sublime scenery of Assynt will afford
moments of exquisite pleasure. One oft feels in
wandering through its superb solitudes as if the next
step would conduct him into the ideal and superna-
tural. To the geologist, nothing further need be
said, to incite him to investigate this district most
minutely, than a reference to the quotations from Dr.
Macculloch already given.
The population of Assynt, in 1801, was 2,395 ; in
1831, 3,101, of whom 1,401 were resident in the
quoad sacra district of Stoer. Above two-thirds of
the population are resident on the sea-shore. In the
district around Loch Inver there was, in 1831, a po-
pulation of about 659 ; in the Kyleside district 456 ;
in each of the two hamlets of Knockan and Elphine,
250; and at Fnapool 8 or 9 families. The number
of houses, in 1831, was 573 ; of families, 575. As-
sessed property, in 1815, .£3,859. Real rental, in
1795, £1,000.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dornoch, and
synod of Sutherland and Caithness. Patron, the
Duke of Sutherland. The parish-church was built
about 1770, and repaired in 1816 ; sittings 240.
There are no dissenting places of worship. Stipend
£158 6s. 7d., with manse, and a glebe of the value
of £27 10s. There is a preaching-station at Loch
Inver, and another at Kyleside, which are supplied
by the parish-minister. — The quoad sacra parish of
Stoer is about 11 miles in length by 10 in breadth.
It was divided from Assynt by authority of the
General Assembly, in 1834. A church was buiit
here by the Parliamentary commissioners in 1828.
The minister's stipend is £120, which is paid by the
Exchequer. A catechist is employed for the whole
civil parish, besides three teachers, by the Society
for propagating Christian knowledge. There are
burial-grounds at the kirktown, at Gedavolich at the
west end of Loch Nedd. at Ardvare, Oldney island,
Stoer, and Loch Inver.
The district of Assynt is said to have been in early
times a forest belonging to the ancient thanes of
Sutherland, the ancestors of the present Duchess of
Sutherland. In the reign of David II., Torquil
Macleod, chief of the Macleods of Lewis, had a royal
grant of Assynt. In 1506, on the forfeiture of Mac-
leod of Lewis, Y Maekay of Strathnaver received a
life-rent grant of Assynt. About the year 1660, both
the property and superiority of Assynt passed from
the Macleods to the Earl of Seaforth. He made it
over to one of his younger sons, whose heirs held it
for three or four generations. It was afterwards pur-
chased by Lady Strathnaver, who presented it to her
grandson, the late William Earl of Sutherland; and
it is now the property of his daughter, the present
Duchess of Sutherland. It was in this district that
the great Marquis of Montrose was taken prisoner,
and delivered up to the Covenanters. After his de-
feat, and the ruin of all his hopes, at Carbisdale,
" Montrose, accompanied by the earl of Kinnoul,
who had lately succeeded to the title on the death
of his brother, and six or seven companions, having
dismounted from his horse and thrown away his
cloak and sword, and having, by the advice of his
friends, to avoid detection, exchanged his clothes for
the more homely attire of a common highlander,
wandered all night and the two following days among
bleak and solitary regions, without knowing where
to proceed, and ready to perish under the accumu-
lated distresses of hunger, fatigue, and anxiety of
mind. The Earl of Kinnoul, unable, from exhaus-
tion, to follow Montrose any farther, was left among
the mountains, where it is supposed he perished.
When upon the point of starvation, Montrose was
fortunate to light upon a small cottage, where he
obtained a supply of milk and bread, on receiving
which he continued his lonely and dangerous course
among the mountains of Sutherland, at the risk or
being seized every hour, and dragged as a felon be-
fore the very man whom, only a few days before, he
had threatened with his vengeance. In the mean-
time, active search was made after Montrose. As it
was conjectured that he might attempt to reach
Caithness, where his natural brother, Henry Graham,
still remained with some troops in possession of the
castle of Dunbeath, and as it appeared probable, from
the direction Montrose was supposed to have taken,
that he meant to go through Assynt, Captain An-
drew Munro sent instructions to Neil Macleod, the
laird of Assynt, his brother-in-law, to apprehend
every stranger that might enter his bounds, in the
hope of catching Montrose, for whose apprehension
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a splendid reward was offered. In consequence of
these instructions, Macleod sent out various parties
in quest of Montrose, but they could not fall in with
him. ' At last (says Bishop Wishart) the laird of
Assynt being abroad in arms with some of his ten-
ants in search of him, lighted on him in a place
where he had continued three or four days without
meat or drink, and only one man in his company.'
The bishop then states, that ' Assynt had formerly
been one of Montrose's own followers ; who imme-
diately knowing him, and believing to find friendship
at his hands, willingly discovered himself; but As-
synt not daring to conceal him, and being greedy of
the reward which was promised to the person who
■should apprehend him by the council of the estates,
immediately seized and disarmed him.' This account
differs a little from that of the author of the continua-
tion of Sir Robert Gordon's history, "who says, that
it was one of Macleod's parties that apprehended
Montrose, but is altogether silent to Assynf.'s having
been a follower of Montrose, but both writers inform
us that Montrose offered Macleod a large sum of
money for his liberty, which he refused to grant.
Macleod kept Montrose and his companion, Major
Sinclair, an Orkney gentleman, prisoners in the cas-
tle of Ardvraick, his principal residence. By order of
Leslie, Montrose was thence removed to Skibo castle,
where he was kept two nights, thereafter to the castle
of Braan, and thence again to Edinburgh. [Browne's
' History of the Highlands,' vol. ii. pp. 35, 36.]
It has been attempted to clear the laird of Assynt
from any participation in the death of this unfortu-
nate nobleman. We do not intend to enter into the
discussion, but have only to add that it is still the cur-
rent tradition of the country, and superstition has con-
nected the alleged treachery with the ruin of Mac-
leod and his family. The loss of his property did
follow the seizure and execution of Montrose ; and,
in the eyes of the simple inhabitants of this district,
the former was the just punishment, of Heaven for
his connexion with the enemies of a favourite hero.
ATHELSTANEFORD, a central parish, in the
shire of Haddington. The parish is denominated
Irom the village; and the village — according to
Buchanan and Camden — owes its name to the fol-
lowing incident. In one of his predatory incursions,
Athelstane, a Danish chief, who had received a grant
of Northumberland from King Alured, arrived in
this part of the country ; and, engaging in battle with
Hungus, king of the Picts, was pulled with violence
from his horse and here slain. The rivulet where
the battle was fought is in the immediate neighbour-
hood of the village, and is still called Lug Down
burn, supposed to be a corruption of Rug Down.
Buchanan adds, that Hungus was encouraged to
hazard this battle by a vision of St. Andrew the
apostle, who appeared to him the preceding night
and promised him success; and that the victory was
facilitated by the miraculous appearance of a cross in
the air, in the form of the letter X, over a farm-
hamlet which still retains the name of Martle, a sup-
posed contraction of miracle. Achaius, king of the
Scots, by whose assistance Hungus obtained this
victory, in commemoration of the event is said to
have instituted the order of St. Andrew.* The lands
on which the battle was fought were bestowed on
the Culdee priory of St. Andrews, and are now held
in perpetual lease by Kiidoch of Gilmerton. Athel-
staneford is divided from the parish of Haddington
* Tlius far tradition. Etymology, however, would give a
Bimpler account of the matter. Ath-ail means, in Gaelic, 'a
stone ford;' and there is such a ford, — a narrow, deep, stony
path, — across the Lug Down rivulet. Saxon settlers, finding
the Ath-ail already in existence, superadded to it, in their own
language, stoue ford. See Chalmers's ' Caledonia,' Vol. II. p,
510.
on the south and south-west by the rivulet formerly
mentioned, the Lug Down burn. This rivulet rises
in the Garletou hills, and falls into the frith of Forth
on the north side of Tynningham bay, after a course
of about 5 miles. On the north this parish is sepa.
rated from that of Dirleton by another small rivulet
called the Peffer. This rivulet rises in the north-
east corner of the parish, and divides into two streams
at its source. The country is here so level that one
of these streams runs in an easterly direction, and joins
the Lug Down burn, while the other runs due west
into the frith of Forth at Aberlady bay : see article
Aberladt. The whole strath of the Peffer was in
early times a wild morass covered with wood, and
the abode of wild boars, and other rapacious animals.
The ground rises gradually from this rivulet to the
southern extremity of the parish, where the village
of Athelstaneford and the church stand. The parish
is about 4 miles in length, from west to east; and
between 2 and 3 in breadth, from south to north.
Previous to 1658 it did not contain above 800 or
1,000 acres; and the Earl of Wintoun was the sole
proprietor of all the lands. At that period it was
considerably enlarged by annexations from the par-
ishes of Haddington and Prestonkirk; so that the
whole extent of the parish is now above 4,000 acres,
of which 3,750 are arable. Population, in 1801,
897; in 1831, 971. Houses 200. Assessed property,
in 1815, .£9,344. The valued rent of the parish is
£4,154 Is. Scotch. About one-third of this valua-
tion is the property of Sir David Kinloch of Gilmer-
ton, Baronet; another third belongs to the Earl of
Hopetoun and Sir Alexander Hope ; the remaining
third is divided among the Earl of Wemyss, Sir
Francis W. Drummond, Baronet, Lord Elibank, and
Miss Grant of Congleton. In the Statistical report
of 1794, it is stated that a woollen manufacture of
striped variegated cloth had been carried on in the
village of Athelstaneford for some years past, on a
small scale. The cloth sold from 4s. 6d. to 5s. 6d.
per yard ; was made of the best materials ; esteemed
alight, genteel, and comfortable dress; and known
in Edinburgh by the name of the Gilmerton livery.
" The demand for it," it is added, " increases, and the
manufacturer has both spirit and stock to carry it on
to greater extent, but finds great difficulty in pro-
curing female hands to prepare the materials. Ac-
customed from their early years to work in the fields
in weeding the corn, hoeing, &c. they prefer what
they call outwork in summer to any domestic em-
ployment." This manufacture no longer exists here.
— This parish is in the presbytery of Haddington,
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, Sir
David Kinloch, Baronet. Minister's stipend, £262
0s. 7d., with a manse, and a glebe of the value of
£15. Unappropriated teinds, £372 lGs. lid. The
church was built in 1780; sittings, 500. The old
church — of which there are still some remains — was
built by Ada, wife of Henry of Scotland, who an-
nexed it to her abbey in the neighbourhood of Had-
dington. There are three schools in the parish.
The parish-schoolmaster has a salary of £35 10s.,
with £48 school-fees, and other emoluments. Ave-
rage number of scholars 70 The only antiquities
in this parish are the vestiges of a camp, or perhaps
of a Pictish town, concerning which there is no
tradition, and history is silent ; and the remains of a
chapel, in the village of Drem, called St. John's
chapel, which belonged to the Knights Templars.
These are both on the property of the Earl of Hope-
toun. The house of Garleton, too, may be men-
tioned under this head. It appears to have once
been a place of magnificence, but is now a complete
ruin. It is beautifully situated at the foot of the
Garleton hills Towards the end of the 16th, and.
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beginning of the 17th century, a great part of the
lower lands of East Lothian was possessed by the
Hepburns, collateral branches of the Earls of Both-
well. A gentleman of that name was proprietor of
the lands of Athelstaneford. A second son of his
went into the Swedish service, and afterwards into
the French service, and died a field-marshal of
France. The Rev. Robert Blair, author of a small
poem entitled, ' The Grave,' much admired for its
elegance and poetical merit, was minister of this
parish; and his son Robert, a native of this parish,
rose to the high judicial office of Lord-president of
the court of session. The fine tragedy of Douglas
■was written by the celebrated John Home, when
minister of Athelstaneford. Mr. Home was ordained
here, in 1747, and was ten years minister of this
parish. Upon demitting his charge, in June 1757,
he built a villa in the parish, called Kilduff, and laid
out the grounds around it with considerable taste.
" Painting, too, the sister-art of poetry," adds the
Statistical reporter of 1794, " has been cultivated
here with taste and advantage. The son of a re-
spectable farmer in this parish, from his earliest
years, discovered a remarkable genius for drawing
and painting. As he advanced in life, he applied
chiefly to miniatures, in which he excelled. For
these several years past, he has been in Italy ; and
there is good reason to believe that he ranks among
the first artists in that country." The individual
here alluded to was the celebrated Archibald Skir-
ving, who amply redeemed the expectations of. his
early friends, and rose to the very first rank as a
portrait-painter. He died in his 70th year, and is
buried in the church-yard of Athelstaneford. His
father was tenant of the farm of Garleton, and the
author of the celebrated ballad upon the battle of
Prestonpans,
The Chevalier, being void of fesr,
Did march up Birsley brae, man;
And through Tranent, &e.
ATHOLE, a mountainous district in the north of
Perthshire ; bounded on the north by Badenoch in
Inverness-shire; on the north-east by Mar in Aber-
deenshire ; on the east by Forfarshire ; on the south
by the districts of Stormont and Breadalbane in
Perthshire; and on the west and north-west by
Lochaber in Inverness-shire. Sir John Sinclair esti-
mates its superficial area at 450 square miles. The
face of the country is highly picturesque, everywhere
presenting lofty mountains, extensive lakes, deep
glens, solemn forests, and all the finer features of
Highland scenery: it is, moreover, "a land praised
in song, richly wooded, yet highly cultivated and
thickly inhabited." The loftiest mountain is Cairn
Goner, one of the Ben-y-Gloe ridge, on the east of
Glen Tilt, which rises to the height of 3,690 feet.
The Scarscock, at the point of junction with Aber-
deenshire, is assigned by some topographers to this
district of Perthshire. Its altitude is stated bv some
at 3,402 ; by others at 3,390 feet. The Blair, or
Field of Athole, is an open fertile vale, intersected
by the Garry, and generally presenting only low and
rounded eminences. See article Blair-Athole.
The other streams in tnis district are the Edendon,
the Bruar, and the Tilt, which are all tributaries of
the Garry ; the Airdle, a tributary of the Ericht ;
and the Tumel, into which the Garry flows. All
these streams belong to the basin of the Tay, and
are described, in this work, in separate articles.
The principal lakes are Loch Ericht, Loch Ranuoch,
Loch Tumel, and Loch Garry, to which separate
articles are also devoted. The Forest of Athole,
the property of the Duke of Athole, contains up-
wards of 100,000 acres, stocked with red deer, moor-
game, and ptarmigans, which are also preserved in
the adjoining forests of the Earl of Fife, the Marquis
of Huntly, and Farquharson of Invercauld. Athole
gives the title of duke to a branch of the Murray
family. Sir John Murrav was created a baron in
1604, and Earl of Tullibardine in 1606. The sixth
earl was created Marquis of Athole in 1676; and
the second marquis, Duke of Athole in 1703. The
Athole-men have always been found, to use the
language of old Froissart, " good chivalry, strong of
limb and stout of heart, and in great abundance;"
and their feuds with the followers of Argyle form
a bloody chapter in Highland history. Stoddart
says, that many of the Athole-men are good per-
formers on the Great Highland bagpipe. He also
notices the once -famed ' Athole-brose,' a composition
of whiskey, honey, and eggs, as forming " an indis-
pensable dainty in the feast, and no unimportant
addition to the Materia Medica." [Remarks, Vol.
II. p. 182.] This was written in 1800: probably
Athole-brose is now banished from the feast, as it
certainly is from the Materia Medica of all wise
people in Athole. Claverhouse, Viscount Dundee,
ended his fierce career, in the battle of Killiecrankie,
a celebrated pass in Athole. See articles Killie-
crankie and Perthshire.
AUCHENAIRN, (Old and New,) a village in
the under ward and shire of Lanark, parish of Cadder ;
3 miles north by east of Glasgow. In 1745, the
Rev. James Warden, a native of this village, and
minister of the parish, . bequeathed 1 ,000 merks to
the session, the interest of which is allotted to the
support of a school here. In 1764, William Leech-
man, D.D., principal of the university of Glasgow,
disponed to the session of Cadder about half-an-acre
of ground, for a house and garden for the benefit of
this school, of which the minister and elders are
patrons. A new school-house was erected in 1826.
Population, in 1831,284.
AUCHENCAIRN, a village in the stewartry of
Kirkcudbright, and parish of Rerrick ; 7 miles east
by south of Kirkcudbright. It is situate at the
north-west extremity of a beautiful bay — to which
it gives name — about 2 miles long, and 1 broad. At
low water this bay presents an uninterrupted bed of
smooth sand, which is so dry and firm that horse-
races have been holden upon it; small craft may load
and unload in any part of it ; and on the west side
is a capacious natural basin, where vessels of bur-
den mav lie in safety from every storm.
. AUCHINBLAE", a village in the parish of For-
doun, Kincardineshire; 16 miles from Montrose. It
has a flax spinning-mill, erected about 40 years ago,
and at which about 40 hands are now employed.
Population, in 1791, 100; in 1831,487. It is a neat
thriving place, and is governed by a baillie appointed
by the Earl of Kintore. Two fairs are held here,
viz., Pasch market in April, and May-day oh 22(1 May.
There are also hiring-markets held May 26th and
November 22d. In the month of July, a cattle-fair
is held at Paldy moor, about 2 miles north from this
place.
AUCHINDOIR and KEARN, a mountainous
parish in the western part of Aberdeenshire; bounded
on the north by the parish of Rhyme; on the east
by the parish of Tulhnessle ; on the south and west
by Kildrummy and Cabrach parishes. The etj mo-
logy of the name, Aucltindoir, is uncertain. It is sup-
posed to signify ' The Field of the Chase or Pursuit.'
" Buchanan tells us, that Luthlac, son to the usurper
Macbeth, having been pursued north ward by Mal-
colm, was slain 'in the valley of Bogie.' The spot
where he was slain is thought to be about 2 miles
to the north of the church of Auchindoir, but in the
parish of Rhynie, in a place where a large stone
with some warlike figures on it has been set up. ll
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so, it is not improbable that Luthlac was overtaken
about a mile to the south of the church, in the place
where a number of cairns now are ; that being de-
feated, he has been pursued through the valley of
.Auchindoir, which lies between the cairns and the
figured stone ; and that from this pursuit, the parish
of Auchindoir has taken its name." [Statistical re-
port of 1792.] Its greatest length is 9 miles; and
greatest breadth 8. Its outline is very irregular. The
larger part of the surface consists of hills and moors.
Some of the mountains attain a great elevation. The
Buck of Cabrach, over which the western boundary
line of the parish runs, has, according to Ainslie, an
altitude of 2,377 feet, or, according to the map of
the Society for the diffusion of Useful Knowledge, of
2,286 feet, above sea-level; and though more than 30
miles distant from the sea, is visible 10 leagues from
shore. The principal river is the Bogie. It is
formed by two rivulets, the burn of Craig, and the
burn of Corchinnan, both of which, flowing from
the west, meet at the manse. This beautiful little
river, after having run through a rich strath or valley,
to which it gives name, and having supplied the
bleachfields at Huntly with very soft and pure water,
falls into the Deveron a little below that village, and
12 miles from the place where it first took its name,
without reckoning the windings of the river. There
is plenty of fine trout in it ; but scarcely any salmon,
except in the spawning-season. The Don touches
the south-east corner of the parish, and there re-
ceives the Moffat, which divides Auchindoir from
Kildrummy. If we include a part of Kearn and
Kildrummy, the valley of Auchindoir is nearly sur-
rounded by a range of hills. From these, several
less hills shoot forward into this valley ; and the hills
are indented by gullies, and deep narrow hollows,
some of which run a great way back into the moun-
tains ; the whole presenting a prospect, which,
though confined, and in most places bleak, to the
admirers of wild and romantic scenery is by no
means unpleasant. Freestone is quarried here in
great abundance ; and that rare mineral, asbestos,
has been found in the bed of a streamlet flowing
from a hill called Towanreef. It is said that one of
the proprietors of the estate of Craig, on which
Towanreef is situated, had a hat-band made from the
asbestos obtained here. Serpentine of a dull dark
green colour, and chromate of iron, are also found on
this hill. The valued rent of the parish is £1,322 lis.
4d. Scots ; the real rent, in 1792, was about £650 ;
assessed property, in 1815, £1,345. Population, in
1801,739, in 1831, 1,030. Houses 218 This parish
is in the presbytery of Alford and synod of Aberdeen.
In 1791, byadecreet of the court of teinds, the parish
of Kearn was disjoined from that of Forbes, and an-
nexed to Auchindoir. Patron, the Earl of Fife. Minis-
ter's stipend £158 Is., with manse and glebe. Church
built in 1811 ; sittings 450. A United Secession con-
gregation was formed at Lumsden, in this parish, in
1834; chapel built in 1803; sittings 203. The popula-
tion of the village of Lumsden, in 1836, was 235. The
parish-schoolmaster's salary is £30, with £21 10s. of
fees, and other emoluments. There are two small pri-
vate schools: — " On a little hill close by the church
there was anciently a castle, said to be mentioned by
Boetius; but no traces of the walls of it remain. It
has been defended on three sides by rocks and pre-
cipices, and on the fourth by a moat or deep excava-
tion, evidently the work of art. There are several
other antiquities, such as tumuli, barrows, and some
little hillocks called ' pest-hillocks,' about which last
tradition is altogether vague and uncertain. In the
south-east corner of the parish there is a spring
called the Nine Maidens' well, near to which, tra-
dition says, nine young women were slain by a boar
that infested the neighbouring country. A stone
with some rude figures on it, marks the spot where
this tragical event is said to have happened. The
boar was slain by a young man of the name of Forbes,
the lover of one of the young women ; and a stone
with a boar's head cut on it was set up to preserve
the remembrance of his gallantry and courage. The
stone was removed by Lord Forbes to his house of
Putachie ; and it is from this circumstance that a
boar's head is quartered in the arms of that family."
[Statistical .report of 1792.]
AUCHINLECK, a parish of Ayrshire ; bounded
on the north by the parishes of Mauchline, Sorn, and
Muirkirk ; on the east by Muirkirk and Crawford-
johu; on the south by Kirkconnel, New Cumnock,
and Old Cumnock; and on the west by Ochiltree.
It is a narrow strip of country, measuring 16 miles in
length, while it does not exceed 2 in average breadth.
Its area is estimated, in Aiton's 'View,' at 18,000
Scots acres, of which not one-third part is under cul-
tivation. The general appearance of the district is
wild and bleak ; but the western part of it is more
generally cultivated and enclosed. There are some
coal-works in this parish which afford employment
to about 60 men, and free-stone and limestone
quarries. The value of coal and lime annually
obtained in this parish is estimated, in the Statisti-
cal report of 1838, at £2,990. The rivers Ayr and
Lugar skirt the boundaries of the parish, — the former
on the east, the latter on the south and west. The
principal heritor is Sir James Boswell, Bart., to
whose ancestor the barony of Auchinleck was grant-
ed by James IV. Boswell, the biographer of Dr.
Johnson, was of this family ; and carried his illus-
trious friend hither, while on their tour in Scotland,
to visit his father, Lord Auchinleck, One of the lords
of session. The Doctor appears to have been pleased
with his visit, and it would appear at one time
entertained the idea of writing an history of the
Boswells of Auchinleck. " Lord Auchinleck," he
writes, " is one of the judges of Scotland, and there-
fore not wholly at leisure for domestic business or
pleasure, has yet found time to make improvements
in his patrimony. He has built a house of hewn
stone, very stately and durable, and has advanced
the value of his lands with great tenderness to his
tenants. I was, however, less delighted with the
elegance of the modern mansion, than with the sul-
len dignity of the old castle. I clambered with Mr.
Boswell among the ruins, which afford striking
images of ancient life. It is, like other castles, built
upon a point of rock, and was, I believe, anciently
surrounded with a moat. There is another rock
near it, to which the draw-bridge, when it was let
down, is said to have reached. Here, in the ages of
tumult and rapine, the laird was surprised and killed
by the neighbouring chief, who perhaps might have
extinguished the family, had he not in a few days
been seized and hanged, together with his sons, by
Douglas, who came with his forces to the relief of
Auchinleck." Grose has preserved a view of the
old castle. Near it is the old house of Auchinleck.
In the upper part of the parish are the remains of
another old fortalhe called K\ le castle. Population,
in 1801, 1,214 ; in 1831, 1,662. Valued rent £3,462
15s. 4d. Scots. Real rent, in 1799, £2,870. The
total yearly value of raw produce raised within this
parish was estimated, in 1837, at £16,035. Houses,
in 1831, 142. The village of Auchinleck is l|
mile distant from Old Cumnock, and 15 from Ayr.
It contains about 600 inhabitants, and is intersected
by the Glasgow and Dumfries road. Many of the
families here and throughout the parish are engaged
in flowering muslin by the needle. A lamb fair is held
here on the last Tuesday in August This parish is
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in the presbytery of Ayr, and synod of Glasgow and
Ayr. Patron, Sir James Boswell, Bart. Church
built in 1S38; sittings 800. Stipend £161 Is. lid.,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at .£10. There is a
small Antiburgher chapel in the village. The paro-
chial schoolmaster has the maximum salary of £34
4s. 4.|d. There are three other schools in the parish,
which are attended by about 130 children. — The
parish of Auchinleck (generally pronounced Affleck
by the country-people) was the birth-place of William
M'Gavin of pious memory, the author of ' The Pro-
testant ;' and of William Murdoch, whose name is
associated with that of James Watt, in his splendid
career of scientific discovery and mechanical appli-
cation.
AUCHINLECK, a hill in Dumfries-shire, in the
parish of Closeburn, at the head of Nithsdale, rising
1,500 feet above sea-level.
AUCHINLOCH, a township in th« under ward
and shire of Lanark, parish of Cadder ; 2 miles south
of Kirkintilloch. It derives its name from an exten-
sive loch now diained, at the lower extremity of
which it stands. In 1744, Patrick Baird, a na-
tive of this place, bequeathed £325 for erecting a
school here: £15 of the interest to be paid annually
to the master, and £1 5s. to a young man, for
preaching a sermon at Auchinloch at Christmas
(the donor's birth-day), and to buy books and buns
for the scholars. To this donation, John Baird
added a piece of ground for a house and garden.
All the heritors possessed of a plough-gate of land
in the parish are patrons of the school. Population,
in 1831, 89.
AUCHLOSSEN (Loch), a lake in Aberdeen,
shire, in the parish of Lumphanan, about a mile long,
and nearly half-a-mile broad. It abounds with
various kinds of fish, and is frequented by flocks of
aquatic fowls. Pikes have been caught in it mea-
suring 6 feet in length, and weighing 25 lbs.
AUCHMEDDEN, a small-fishing village on the
Moray frith, in the parish of Aberdour, in Aberdeen-
shire ; 34 miles west-north-west of Aberdour. Here
was formerly a small and convenient harbour, shel-
tered by a pier ; but it is now totally destroyed, and
it is with difficulty that fishing-boats can enter,
especially if there is any great agitation of the sea.
Here is a small school, the master of which, besides
the usual school-fees, has a salary of £2 Is. 8d.,
which is paid out of the interest of money mortified
for that purpose by one of the lairds of Auchmedden,
and his lady's sister, Lady Jean Hay, a daughter of
the Earl of Kinnoul, and of which the church-session
are trustees. In the face of a tremendous precipice
overhanging the sea is a mill-stone quarry of ex-
cellent quality. Auchmedden uas long the resi-
dence of the very ancient and respectable family of
Baird.
AUCHMITHY, a fishing-village in the parish of
St. Vigean's, upon the German ocean, about 3^ miles
north-east of Arbroath. It is situate on a high
rocky bank, which rises about 120 feet above the
sea, and is irregularly built ; but contains several
good houses, upon feus granted by the Earl of
Northesk. The harbour is only a level beach in an
opening between the high rocks which surround this
part ot the coast; and, after every voyage, the boats
are obliged to be drawn up from the sea, to prevent
their being destroyed by the violence of the waves.
Near the village is The Gaylet pot, a remarkable
cavern into which the sea flows. See St. Viceans.
AUCaNACRAIG. See Achnacraig.
AUCHTERARDER, a parish in Perthshire. Its
name, derived from the principal town in it, signifies
' the Summit of the rising ground;' which describes
exactly its situation on the ridge of an eminence in
the middle of Strathern, commanding, on the north
and east, an extensive prospect of the adjacent coun-
try. The parish has united with it that of Abruth-
ven, which signifies ' the Mouth of the Ruthven,' a
small river on which it lies, and which discharges
itself into the Earn. The annexation of the two
parishes seems to have taken place some consider-
able time before the Revolution. Auchterarder
parish is of an irregular form : its greatest extent from
east to west is about 3 miles, and from north to south
nearly 8 miles. It is bounded on the west by the
parish of Blackford ; on the north by Trinity-Gask ;
on the east, by Dunning; and on the south by Glen-
devon. The greater part of the parish is a flat and
level country, lying on the south of the river Earn ;
it also includes in it some part of the Ochil hills,
particularly Craigrossie, which is one of the highest
of them, having an altitude of 2,359 feet above sea-
level. These hills are clothed to their summit with
grass, and afford good sheep-pasture. The general
declination is from the base of the Ochils to the
Earn. Almost the whole of the lower part of the
parish is arable, and the northern declivity of the
hills is arable a considerable way upwards. The
Earn produces salmon, and the large white and
yellow trout ; it greatly beautifies the parish as well
as the adjacent country, but is sometimes prejudicial
to the neighbouring tenantry, by overflowing its
banks in harvest. The Ruthven, which takes its
rise in the hills, about 3 miles beyond the western
boundary of the parish, is a beautiful little river, and
runs with an uniform and constant stream through
the whole length of this parish from south-west to
north-east. It passes about 1,200 yards to the south
of the village of Auchterarder, and joins the Earn
about 4 miles from that village. This stream drives
a number of corn and lint mills. It abounds with a
species of trout peculiar to itself, of a small size, but
remarkable for flavour and delicacy. This stream
also is liable to sudden and extensive floods. .In
1839, in particular, it did extensive damage in this
way. The parish, and particularly the neighbour-
hood of the town of Auchterarder, abounds with a
hard and durable stone which is very fit both for build-
ing houses and dry-stone fences ; the quarries in the
neighbourhood of the town also afford grey slate in
abundance. No coal has yet been found here. In
tiie Statistical report of 1838, the a. res under the
plough in this parish are stated at 7, '76; the waste
or pasture at 6, 571 acres. There is only a small
quantity of ground occupied by woods and rivers,
and none at all by forests, or marshes ; about 300
acres are under plantation. There are a couple of
hundred acres in common at the west end of the
village of Auchterarder, called the moor of Auch-
terarder, to which the inhabitants of Auchterarder
send their cows to pasture. In its present state it
is of no great value ; but were it improved, the value
of it would be vastly increased. Attempts have
been repeatedly made to get it enclosed and divided;
hut hitherto it has been found impossible to settle the
respective claims of the various parties interested in
it. The average rent of land, in 1792, was 20s. ; in
1838, SOs. Population, in 1801, 2,042; in 1831,
3,315, of whom 1,981 were resident in the town ot
Auchterarder, and about 400 in the village ot
Smithyhaugh. Houses 475. Assessed propertv, in
1815, £6,434.
This parish is in the presbytery of Auchterarder,
and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Earl
of Kinnoul. Minister's stipend £199 14s. 2d., with
a manse, and a glebe of the value of £17. Unap-
propriated teinds £18 15s. lid. Church built in
1784; sittings 909. The old church of Abruthven
is still standing; it is roofless, but the walls are
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good; and it has been suggested that it might be
repaired and erected into a church for the village and
district of Smithyhaugh. It is 2i miles distant from
Auchterarder church. A Relief church was built in
Auchterarder in 1778; sittings 553. Minister's sti-
pend .£110, with manse and garden. A United
Secession church was erected in 1813 ; sittings 500.
Minister's stipend £100, with manse and garden.
By a census taken by the church-elders, in Decem-
ber, 1S35, it was ascertained that the population of
this paiish then amounted to 3,315, of whom 2,196
belonged to the establishment, arid 1,070 were dis-
senters. There are seven schools in the parish.
The parochial schoolmaster has the maximum salary,
and about £40 of school-fees. Mr. Sheddan of
Lochie, in 1811, built and endowed a school here
with £1,000, on condition of 12 poor children being
taught in it gratuitously. There is a subscription
school at Smithyhaugh. — This parish will long he
famous, in the ecclesiastical annals of the country,
for the singular struggle connected with the Veto
Act which had its origin here, and of which the
following is a brief but fair summary. The ex-
ercise of patronage was at one time very unpopular
in Scotland. It had been an early principle of
the Church that clergymen should not be intruded
on parishes contrary to the consent of the parishion-
ers. When a patron presents, it is for the pres-
bytery to say whether the presentee is qualified,
and to refuse collation if he is not. The Church
now considers the presentees' acceptability to the
parishioners a necessary qualification, and in 1834
passed the 'Veto Act,' instructing all presbyteries
to reject presentees to whom a majority of male
heads of families in communion with the Church ob-
jected. In the case of the Auchterarder presenta-
tion, when this was acted on, the presentee brought
an action in the civil courts to declare it an undue
interference with his civil rights. The Church said
— This is a matter purely ecclesiastical. The civil
and the church-courts have their respective jurisdic-
tions. This is ours entirely, and the civil court must
not interfere. The Court of Session said — We care
not what you call it. We are here to protect men's
property. Patronage has been constituted property
by Act of Parliament. Whether rightly so or not,
it is a commodity that may be bought and sold.
You have attempted to deprive a proprietor of the
use of it, under a pretence, and we must stop you.
The Church appealed to the House of Lords. The
judgment of the court below was confirmed ; but the
General Assembly declined to implement the decision
of the civil tribunals, holding itself irresponsible to
any civil court for its obedience to the laws of Christ.
The town of Auchterarder was once, perhaps, of
greater note. It was a royal burgh, and sent a member
to parliament; and a great number of the houses hold
burgage to this day. How it came to lose its privi-
leges is not certainly known. It consists of one street
above a mile long. Besides six fairs every year, —
viz. on the last Tuesday of March, the first Thursday
of May, and in each of the harvest-months, — there has
been a yearly tryst held here in the beginning of
October, since the year 1781, at which there has
heen always a great show of black cattle, previous to
the tryst at Falkirk. Another fair is held on De-
cember 6th. About 60 years ago, a considerable
manufacture of yarn and narrow linen-cloth was car-
ried on in Auchterarder. The main business now is
that of cotton weaving. There are about 500 looms,
all employed by Glasgo \v houses, in weaving pullicates,
ginghams, and stripes. The average nett weekly earn-
ings of a cotton- w eaver do not at present exceed 4s. —
On the 28th January, 1716, the Earl of Marr burnt
this town on the advance of the royalist troops under
Argyle upon Perth. Argyle arrived on the 30th, and
here passed the night upon the snow, " without any
other covering than the fine canopy of heaven."
[Annals of Geo. I., vol. ii. p. 222] Auchterarder,
says Newte — who visited this place in 1782 — " seems
to have lain under the curse of God ever since it
was burnt by the army in the year 1715. The dark
heath of the moors of Oclnll and Tullibardin, — a.
Gothic castle belonging to the Duke of Athol, — the
naked summits of the Grampians seen at a distance,
and the frequent visitations of the presbytery, who
are eternally recommending fast-days, and destroying
the peace of society by prying into little slips of life,
together with the desolation of the place, render
Auchterarder a melancholy scene, wherever you turn
your eyes, except towards Perth and the lower
Strathern, of which it has a partial prospect." [' Tour
in England and Scotland.' London, 1791. 4to. p. 252.]
When this superficial tourist penned his coarse and
unjust remarks on presbyterial visitations, he pro-
bably knew no more of the matter than he seems to
have done of what he calls the Antimonian heresies of
the place At a little distance from Auchterarder, is a
village called the Borland-Park, built by government
for the accommodation of the soldiers who were dis-
banded after the war in 1763. Most of the soldiers
who were planted in it, left it very soon afterwards — -
though the terms of their settlement were very ad-
vantageous— either from dislike to the place, or more
probably to their new mode of life On the south
of Auchterarder, and along the side of the Ruthven,
is Miltown, a small village The village of Smithy-
haugh is of very recent origin. It is 2i miles east
of Auchterarder, and chiefly inhabited by cotton-
weavers — In the neighbourhood of Auchterarder,
and on the north side of the town, are the remains of
an old castle said to have been a hunting-seat of
King Malcolm Kenmore; adjoining to which is a
small copse wood which commonly goes by the name
of the King's wood A little to the northward of
the castle, are the remains of a popish place of wor-
ship, commonly known by the name of the Old Kirk,
or St. Mungo's chapel. This was formerly the
parish-church; the church-yard was the burving-
ground of the parish, — many of the inhabitants still
retain burying-places in it There are some traces
of encampments on the south-east of the village of
Auchterarder, at the foot of the Ochils. Perhaps
these were out-posts of the Roman camp at Ardoch.
About 60 years ago, there was found in a marl. pit, in
the parish, a pair of large horns, supposed to be those
of the Elk, or Eurus, which were sent to Edinburgh,
and are now in the custody of the Antiquarian so-
ciety. " The alteration in the dress and manner of
living of the inhabitants, within these 30 or 40 years,
is not a little remarkable. Every body is now de-
cently and comfortably clothed, which perhaps was
not the case then ; and there is now four times the
quantity of butcher-meat used. About 25 or 30
years ago, there were but two sixpenny wheaten
loaves brought from Perth, to two private families,
in the week. There is now a baker in the village,
who sells bread to the amount of £200 a-year, and
about £80 worth is brought every year from Perth."
[Statistical report of 1792.] We have inserted this
statement as marking the progress of social comforts
in this district. We need scarcely say that Auch-
terarder has been long abundantly supplied with
white bread as well as brown from its own ovens, and
that there is not a cottage in the parish within which
at least a couple of sixpenny wheaten loaves are not
consumed weekly.
AUCHTERDERRAN, a parish in the county of
Fife. It is of an irregular form, about 5 miles long
from north to south, and 3 broad. It is bounded
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by Auchtertool on the south ; Abbotshall on the
south-east ; Dysart on the east ; Kinglassie and
Portmoak on the north; and Ballingray on the west.
The valley in which this parish lies is surrounded on
the south, east, and west, by rising grounds, which are
of sufficient elevation to exclude the view of the frith
of Forth, although they are cultivated to the top.
The water of Orr flows through the parish from
north-west to south-east. It is a slow running
stream, rising in the north- west corner of the county,
flowing through Loch Fetty, and falling into the
Leven about 3 miles from its mouth. On the south-
ern border of the parish is a sheet of water measur-
ing nearly 3 miles in circumference, called Loch-
gellv, which discharges its waters, by a small rivulet,
into" the Orr. Population, in 1801, 1,045; in 1831,
1.590, of whom 786 were resident in Lochgelly
village, and 77 were employed in the coal-mines
now opened in this parish. Houses, 331. Assessed
property, £5,669. The land-rent of the parish
in 1792 was £2,000; it is now nearly £7,000
This parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy, and
synod of Fife. Patron, Boswell of Balmuto. Sti-
pend, ±'237 Us. 10d., with manse, and a glebe of
the annual value of £30. Unappropriated teinds,
£824 0s. lid. Church built in 1789. There is
a Secession church at Lochgelly. , The parochial
schoolmaster has a salary of £34 4s. 4d., with
£25 school-fees. Average number of pupils, 60.
There are other two schools in the parish attend-
ed by about 150 children. — The venerable incum-
bent of this parish, who has twice drawn up the
Statistical Account of it, concludes his report of
1836 with the following interesting comparative
account of its progress during the last 40 years.
" Drunkenness, formerly rare, is now lamentably
frequent — Forty years ago emigration was thought
of with much reluctance ; now the predilection for
the native spot has diminished, and emigration is
more readily embraced Forty years ago we were
accustomed to regard increase of population as in-
crease of national prosperity; now such increase
seems regarded as an obstruction. — Forty years ago
we had no medical gentlemen in the parish; at pre-
sent two are resident Since the draining of our soil
and marshes obtained, the heron has nearly disap-
peared; and since our district became wooded, phea-
sants have reached our latitude. — Forty years ago
servants for husbandry were few in number, at
present they seem redundant Formerly coal-hew-
ers were inferior to other classes in morals and re-
spectability, here they are now nearly on a level. — .
Forty, nay twenty, years ago, we had not one met-
alled road, now we have several Forty years ago
irregularity, multiplicity, and confusion of weights
and measures, pervaded all transactions, now we
have one philosophical and just standard Forty
years ago the ministers of the Established church
generally delivered all their discourses from the pul-
pit without reading; now they are generally read
Forty years ago land was sold in Fife at 35 years'
purchase of the existing rental; now it sells at 26
years' purchase of the present rental Forty years
ago rents were all paid here in money ; now they
begin to be paid in grain, at the rate of the county
fiars Forty years ago resurrectionists, as they. are
called, were unheard of; now even the poor labourer
is under the hardship of providing safes for the graves
of his friends. — Forty years ago thrashing-machines
were unknown to us; now they are become general,
and so beneficial that it is difficult to believe how
farming could be carried successfully on without
them. — Forty years ago the different ranks in society
were distinguished from each other by their dress; at
present there is little distinction iu dress. — Forty-
nine years ago I was the youngest minister of the
presbytery; now I am the oldest." ['New Statis-
tical Account of Scotland, Fifeshire, pp. 173, 174.']
ATJCHTERGAVEN, a parish in the shire ot
Perth. It is 10 miles in length from east to west,
and about 3 in average hreadth from north to south.
Its general surface measures nearly 20,000 acres ;
but a great proportion of this consists of hills and
moors, or waste uncultivated ground. ■ A small
neighbouring parish, called Logiehride, has been an-
nexed to Auchtergaven : but no account can be had
of the time when this annexation took place, either
from tradition, or from the records of presbytery, in
which the parish is always named Oughter, or Augh-
tergaven. The people residing in the district that
belonged to Logiebride parish, however, still con-
tinue to bury in the churchyard at Logiebride; and
a part of the church is yet standing, and is used as
a burying-ground by the family of Tullybelton. It
is distant 2 miles from Auchtergaven church. This
parish is bounded on the north by the parish of Little
Dunkeld; on the east by Kinclaven parish; on the
south by the parishes of Redgorton and Moneydie ; .
and on the west by Redgorton. A lower range of
the Grampians skirts it on the north, some points in
which exceed 1,000 feet in elevation. From these
heights a number of streams descend towards the
Ordie, a tributary of the Tay, which rising in a small
lake in the hill of Tullybelton, flows through Strath-
ern in this parish, and unites with the Shochie at
Luncarty. At Loak the Ordie receives the Garry
from Glen Garr. The bed of the Tay, near to
Stanley, is crossed by a whin-dike, which here
forms the celebrated Linn of Cam'psie. At the foot
of Birnam hill [altitude 1,300 feet,] there is a
small secluded sheet of water which is frequented
by the heron. The great bittern (Ardea stellaris,
L.) has been shot in this neighbourhood. In the
year 1784 Mr. Dempster of Dunnichen, and Mr.
Graham of Fintray, along with several gentlemen
in Perth, feued some ground at Staidey from the
duke of'Atholl, built a mill for spinning cotton,
and soon after began to erect a village in its
neighbourhood. At that time only a few families
dwelt near Stanley; and, except the land within the
enclosures around Stanley house, most part of the
district was almost in a state of nature. In 1838
there were two cotton-mills here, with a moving-
power by water which was equal to 202 horse-power,
and employing 887 hands; and the village contained
a population of 1,500 souls. — This parish is in the
presbytery of Dunkeld, and synod of Perth and
Stirling. Patron, the Crown. Minister's stipend,
£179 6s. 4d., with a manse and glebe. The church
of Auchtergaven is finely situated upon the slope of
a rising ground, half-a-mile eastward from the manse,
and adjoining the public road from Perth to Dunkeld.
It is distant from Perth 8i miles, and 6^ from Dun-
keld. The parochial schoolmaster has a salary ot
£34 4s. 4Ad., with about £12 fees. Pupils, 90.
There is a private school at the village of Bankfoot,
within a quarter of a mile of the parish-school ; and
another at Stanley, which is attended by about 136
children, and the master of which has a salary of
£20, and a house, besides his fees, from the Stardey
cotton-mill company. Besides these, there are other
three schools in the parish, — one at Staidey, one at
Glack; and one at Nether-Olney Stanley house is
beautifully situated upon the Tay, in the eastern part
of this parish. It was built by the late Lord Nairne.
The family of Nairne had another elegant house near
Loak, the ruins of which are yet to be seen. It was
purchased by the Duke of Atholl after the forfeiture
of Lord Nairne, and thereafter demolished. The title
of Nairne was revived in 1824 in the person of Wil-
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liam, Lord Nairne, who was succeeded by his son
William, 6th Lord Nairne, who died, without issue,
in 1837. The title is understood to have descended
to the Baroness Keith. The Nairne family bury in
the south aisle of Auchtergaven church.
AUCHTERHOUSE, a parish in the south-west
of Forfarshire, bounded on the north by Newtyle
and Glammis parishes; on the east by Tealing and
Strathmartine ; on the south by the parish of Liff,
and the shire of Perth ; and on the west by Lundie
parish. Its greatest length is about 4i miles, and
greatest breadth 3i. About three-fouiths of the
surface are arable. The range of the Sidlaw hills
shelter it on the north-west, and in the north-east
are the hills of Auchterhouse and Bockello. Two
streams, both rising in the parish of Lundie, flow
through the lower part of this parish, and uniting at
the village of Dronlaw, form the Dighty water,
which flows into the frith of Tay, about 4 miles east
of Dundee. The turnpike road from Dundee to
Meigle passes the kirk-town, which is 7 miles north-
west of Dundee, and 100 feet above the sea-level.
The Dundee and Newtyle railway passes through
the bog of Auchterhouse. Population, in 1S01, 653;
in 1831, 715. Houses, 125. Assessed property in
1815, £3,11S. Valued rent, ±'169 14s. 5d. Scots.
Real rent, in 1792, £2,000 This parish is in the
presbytery of Dundee, and s_\nod of Angus and
Mearns. Patron, the Earl of Airlie. Minister's
stipend, £229 0s. 2d., with a manse, and a glebe
of the value of £\2. Schoolmaster's salary, £34
4s. 4Jd. ; school-fees about £20. Church built in
1775. The old church was a large and handsome
Gothic structure. — In the old Statistical account of
this parish there are some curious extracts given
from the parish-register, of which we select the fol-
lowing : —
Sunday, the 1st of June, 1GI5, "there was but anes preach-
ing, because of the enemie lying so neir hand." — On Sunday,
the 20th of July, there was no preaching, " because of the ene-
mie being so neir the towne."— On the 5th of July, 16t6, there
was intimation made out of the pulpit, of a fast to be kept on
the llth of July, " because of tile desolate stat and cure of
several congregations which have been starved by dry-breasted
ministers this longtime bygone, and now are wandering like
sheep but sheepherds, and uituesseth no sense of scant; and
because of the pregnant scandal of witches and charmers within
this part of the land."— O.i Sunday, the 27th of September, the
minister read out of the pulpit " tile names of those who were
exconimunicat bee Mr. Robert Blair in the Kirk of Edinburgh,
to wit, the Earl of Airly, Sir Alexander Makdonald, the Lord
of . , and some others." — On the 7th of January, 1C49,
" the minister and twa of the elders went through the church
after sermon, desiring the people to subscribe the covenant."
■ — fith January, IG50, "the minister desired the session to make
search every ane in their own quarter gave they kDew of any
witches or charmers in the paroch, and delate them to the next
session." — Oo Sunday the 18th of July, 1652, "Janet Fife
made her pulilick repentance before the pulpit, for learning M.-
Robertson to charm her child ; and whereas M. Robertson
should have done the like, it pleased the Lord before that time
to call upon her by death,"— Nov. — , Hi6o, " Mr. William
Skeiouer, minister and moderator of the presbyterie of Dun-
dee, having preached, intimatto the congregation, Mr. James
Campble his suspension from serving the calling of the minis-
trie, till the synod asselnblie of Dundee, for ane fornication
committed betwixt him and dam Marjorie Ramsay, Countess
of Buchaune; for the qlk, by the said presbyterie's order, he
beganne his repentance on the pillare, and sat both sermons;
and is exhorted to repentance."— December 24th, " Mr. James
Campble, for ane fornication forsaid, being thryce in the pil-
lare ; upon evident signs of his repentance, was absolvit."
December 21, "That day the Countess of Buchauue, fur ane
fornication committed with Mr. James Campble her chaplain,
beganne her repentance." — February 2d, lb'b'2, " All kirk-
sessiuns are discharged till farder orders."
AUCHTERLESS, a parish in Aberdeenshire;
bounded on the north by the parish of Turriff; on
the east by Fyvie; on the south by Fyvie, Rayne,
and Culsamond ; and on the west by Forgue and
Inverkeilhnie. The Ythan river takes its rise near
the south-western extremity of this parish, and runs
through it in a north-east direction, passing the kirk-
town, which is near the centre of the parish. At
the point where it enters the parish on the south-
west from Forgue, are some traces of ancient en
campments supposed to be Roman. There are also
some Druidical circles within the parish. Population,
in IS01, 1,129; in 1831, 1,701. Houses. 325. As-
sessed property, in 1815, £2,930. Valued rent,
£3,153 7s. Scots. Real rent about £2,000 This
parish is in the presbytery of Turriff, and synod of
Aberdeen. Patron, Duff of Hatton. Stipend,
£191 6s. 5d., with a manse, and a glebe of the
value of £13 13s. Unappropriated teinds, £171
5s. Id. Schoolmaster's salary, £34 4s. 4id., with
about £21 fees. Average number of pupils 45.
There are other five private schools attended by
about 150 children.
AUCHTERMUCHTY, a small parish in the shire
of Fife, measuring 2J- miles from east to west, and
about 2 from north to south. It is bounded on the
north by the Perthshire portion of Abernethy parish ;
on the east by Collessie ; on the south by the river
Eden, which separates it from Strathmiglo; and on
the west by Strathmiglo and Abernethy. From
its northern limits, where it rises to a considerable
elevation on the Ochils, the face of the country
slopes gently to the Eden. The soil is fertile and
well-cultivated. Average rent £3 per acre ; valued
rent £5,783 9s. lid. Scots. Assessed property, in
1815, £6,930. The heritors are numerous. Popu-
lation, in 1801, 2,060 ; in 1831, 3,225. Houses 670.
— This parish is in the presbytery of Cupar, and
synod of Fife. Patron, Bruce of Falkland. Stipend
£253 lis. 2d., with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£20. Unappropriated teinds £77 5s. 8d. Church
built in 1780; sittings 900. Schoolmaster's salary
£34 4s. 4i-d., with about £15 school fees. Average
number of pupils 60. There are five private schools,
attended by about 240 children. Four of these are
in the town of Auchtermuchty, and one at Dunshelt.
There are four dissenting congregations in the parish,
two of which are in connexion with the United As-
sociate synod ; the third is connected with the Relief
synod ; and the fourth is a Baptist congregation.
Mr. John Glass, the founder of the Glassites, was
born in this parish, October 5, 1691, at which time
his father was minister of the parish.
The royal burgh of Auchtermuchty is situated
near the middle of the parish, about a mile from the
Eden, on the road from Cupar to Kinross, and from
Kirkaldy to Newburgh. A small burn flows through
it from Lochmill in Abdie parish, and joins the Eden
near Kilwhis. It is an irregularly built town, consist-
ing of three principal streets, and a number of lanes.
The East Lomond hill forms the finest object in the
surrounding landscape. This place was erected into
a royal burgh by a charter of James V., dated May
25, 1517, and confirmed by charter of James VI.,
dated October 28, 1595. It had not, however, exer-
cised its privilege of sending a member to pailianient
for a considerable time before the Union. Since the
date of the 1 and 2 William IV., parties qualified in
terms of it, resident within the borough, have voted
in the election of the county-members. Population,
in 1833, 2,400, of whom 76 rented property within
the burgh amounting to £10 per annum and upwards.
The burgh having become bankrupt in 1816, the
whole property of the burgh — except the town-house,
jail, steeple, bell, and customs, which, on appearance
for the magistrates and the Crown, were held to be
extra comntunitatem — was sequestrated in June, 1822,
and sold under authority of the court of session in a
process of ranking and sale. The present revenue
is about £30. The affairs of the burgh were for-
merly managed by a council of 15, and 3 baillies;
the magistrates and council are now elected in terms
of the statute 3 and 4 William IV. There is a
weekly market held on Monday ; and three public
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78
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fairs during the year, of which the principal one is
held on the 13th of July. There is a branch of the
Glasgow Union bank here. There are above SUO
looms in the burgh, and above 1,000 within the par-
ish. They are chiefly employed in the manufacture
of linen for Newburgh, cotton cloth for Glasgow and
Aberdeen, and woollen shawls for Tillicoultry. The
average weekly wages of a weaver are at present
about 4s. 6d. There is also a large bleachfield in the
vicinity of the town At the south-eastern extremity
of the parish is a large village called Dunshelt. — Im-
mediately to the south of the burgh is the fine old
castle of Myers, the property of Bruce of Falkland,
who purchased it from the MoncriefTs of Reedie.
Every one has heard of the humorous Scottish
poem, ' The Wife of Auchtermuchty,' which has been
ascribed, but most erroneously, to James V. We
shall quote a stanza or two :
In Auchtermuchty dwelt a man,
An husband, as I heard it tauld,
Quha weil could tipple out a can,
And nowttier luvit hungir nor cauld ;
Till anes it fell upon a day,
He zokit his pie" ch upon the plain ;
But sehort the storm waid let him stay,
Sair blew the day with wind and raiu.
He lowsd the plewch at the land's end,
And draile his owsen hame at eue;
Qulii'ii he came in he blinkit ben,
And saw bis wyfe baith dry and elene,
Set beikand by a fyre full bauld,
Suppand fat sowp, as I heard say :
The man beint* weary, wet and cauld,
Betwein thir twa it was nae play.
Quod he, " Quhair is my horses corn ?
My owsen has nae hay nor strae ;
Dame, ye maun to the plewch the morn,
I sail be hussy gif I may.
This seid-time it proves cauld and bad,
And ze sit warm, nae troubles se ;
The morn ze sail gae with the lad,
Arid ayue zeil ken what drinkers drie."
" Gudeman," quod scho, " content am I,
To tak the plewch my day about,
Sae ye rule weil the kaves and ky,
And all the house baith in and out.
And now sen ze haif made the law,
Then gyde all richt and do not break :
They sicker raid that neir did faw,
Therefore let naething be neglect"
The bargain proved, as might be anticipated, a
most unfortunate one for the gudeman, whose succes-
sive disasters in 'hussyskep' brought him ' meikle
schame,' fairly sickened him of his new employ- i
ments before night-fall, and forced him upon the
sound reflection and wise resolution with which the
ballad closes :
Quod be, " When I forstike my plewch,
I trow I but forsuke my skill I
Then I will to my plewch again,
For I and this house will nevir do weil."
ATTCHTERTOOL, a small parish in Fifeshire,
about 2 miles in length, anil one in breadth ; bound-
ed on the north by Auchterderran parish ; on the
east by Abbotshall ; on the south by Kinghorn and
Abenlour ; and on the west by Beath. The surface
is undulating, and rises towards the north. There
is a small village in the parish, and the church is
situated about half-a-mile to the west of it. The
ground about the church and manse is elevated and
commanding:, and takes in a fine view of the sea to
the east, as far as the eye can reach, comprehending
in it the isle of May, the Bass, North- Berwick law,
anil a point of the Lothian coast which stretches a
considerable way into the sea. There is one small
lake in the parish called Camilla Loch, in which are
some perch. It takes its name from the old house
of Camilla adjacent to it ; which was so called after
jne of the countesses of Moray, a Campbell. The
ancient name of the house was Hallyards, when it
belonged to the family of the Skenes. It is said to
have been the rendezvous of the Fife lairds at the
rebellion in 1715. When James V. was on his road
to the palace of Falkland, after the defeat of his army
on the English border, under the command of Oliver
Sinclair, he lodged all night in the house of Hall-
yards, where he was courteously received by the
Lady of Grange, "ane ancient and godlie matrone,"
as Knox calls her. It seems then to have belonged
to the Kirkcaldies of Grange, a family of consider-
able note in the history of Scotland. It is now a ruin.
Population, in 1801, 396; in 1831,527. Houses 113.
Assessed property, in 1815, £2,044. — This parish is
in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy, and synod of Fife.
Patron, the Earl of Moray. Stipend £157 18s. 10d.,
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £20. School-
master's salary £29 ISs. 10d., with about £30 fees.
Average number of pupils 40. There are two pri-
vate schools, attended by about 100 children.
AUGUSTUS (Fort), is situated on a small
triangular plain, at the western extremity of Loch
Ness, in the parish of Boleskine, Inverness-shire ; 13
miles north of Garvieinore-inn; 32^ south-west of
Inverness ; 29 north-east of Fort-William ; 5j miles
from the north-east end of Loch Oich ; and 144 from
Edinburgh. It was erected on a part of the forfeit-
ed estate of Lord Lovat in 1729, and is a regular
fortification, with 4 bastions, defended by a ditch,
covert-way, and glacis, and barracks capable of ac-
commodating 300 soldiers. It was until late years
garrisoned by a company of soldiers, and supplied with
provisions from Inverness; but the guns have been
removed to Fort-George, and there are only a few
soldiers stationed here. The fortifications are in
good repair ; but as the whole is commanded from the
neighbouring hills on every side, it is by no means,
capable of long resistance. It is a neat-looking
place ; the surrounding plantations, and the rivers
Tarffe and Oich which run by it, give it very much
the appearance of an English country-seat. " Look-
ing down from the glacis," says Miss Spence, "the
eye commands the whole length of the lake, 24
miles. On the south side, bordered by lofty and
precipitous rocks as far as the eye reaches, without
any interruption except the hanging gardens of Glen-
doe. On the north, a softer and more varied pros-
pect forms a happy contrast to the rude grandeur
of Suidh Chuiman, and the dark heights of Strath-
erick. Verdant bays retire from the view ; wooded
heights gently rising, and peopled glens of the most
pastoral description, intervene, — each divided by its
blue narrow stream pouring in to augment the
abundance of the lake. This last, in calm weather,
holds a most beautiful and clear mirror to its lofty
and varied borders. In wintry storms its agitations
' resemble Ocean into tempest wrought.' The ed-
dying winds, which rush with inconceivable fury
down the narrow opening in the hills, make naviga-
tion dangerous from their violence and uncertainty.
The east wind — which sometimes prevails in winter
for more than a month — raises tremendous waves,
yet it is not so dangerous as the impetuous blasts
which descend from the apertures between the
mountains." [' Letters.' London, 8vo. 1817, pp.
178, 179.] Fort Augustus was taken by the rebels
in 1745, who deserted it after demolishing what they
could. The Duke of Cumberland established his
head-quarters here after the battle of Culloden. Im-
mediately behind the fort is a small village called
Killiecuming, or Cill Chuiman. The Caledonian
canal here passes through a series of five locks.
There is a small church here, and a missionary
clergyman, who is supported from the Royal bounty.
See Boleskine.
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AULD-DAVIE, a rivulet in Aberdeenshire, a
head-tributary to the Ythan, into which it falls near
Glenmailen. Near the confluence of the two streams,
in the parish of Auchterless, are some relics of Ro-
man antiquities, called the Rae or Ri dykes, sup-
posed by manv to point out the Statio ad Itunam of
Tacitus. See ' Caledonia,' vol. i. p. 127 ; and Roy's
' Military Antiquities,' Plate LI. See Auchterless.
AULDEARN, a parish in the county of Nairn;
bounded on the north by the Moray frith ; on the east
by the parish of Dyke ; on the south by Ardlach;
and on the west by Nairn. It extends 4 miles alongthe
frith ; being in length about fU miles, and in breadth
about oh- The ground rises gradually from the
coast to the inland part of the parish, where it be-
comes hilly. The soil is generally light and fertile
in proportion to its vicinity to the sea. Near the
coast is a small lake, called Loch Loy, about H mile
in length, and a quarter of a mile broad. A fair for
cattle and horses is held here on the 20th of June, if
that clay fall on a Wednesday or Thursday ; if not,
on the first Wednesday thereafter; and another fail-
is held on the first Tuesday after Inverness Novem-
ber fair. Population, in 1801, 1,401 ; in 1831, 1,613,
of whom 1,300 belonged to the established church.
Houses 330. Assessed property £3,200. The vil-
lage of Auldearn, in the above parish, is a burgh
of barony. It is 20 miles west of Elgin, and about
2i south-east of Nairn. Population about 400. —
This parish is in the presbytery of Nairn, and synod
of Moray. Patron, Brodie of Brodie. Stipend £241
os. 4d., with a manse, and a glebe valued at £12 10s.
Unappropriated teinds £360 5s. 3d. Church built
in 1751; repaired in 1816 ; sittings 525. There are
+.wo catechists — A United Secession congregation
meets at Boghole. Church built about 1780; repaired
m 1817 ; sittings 353. Salary £80, with a manse and
garden, and glebe worth £10. — The parochial school-
master has a salary of £37 6s., with £10 school-
fees ; average number of pupils 100. There are
three private schools in the parish, attended by about
150 scholars. — It is rather remarkable that a very-
large portion, it is thought a great majority, of the
inhabitants of the town of Nairn (not of the fishing-
class) have their burial places in Auldearn, and that
to these they cling with a romantic feeling, the fune •
rals of the poorest being well-attended all the way.
To other causes, the supposed greater sac-redness of
the soil of Auldearn, on account of its having been
the ancient seat of the deans of Moray, may perhaps
be added as a reason for such a resort of funerals
from Nairn, as well as many other places.
In May, 1645, Montrose, while pursuing General
Hurry in his retreat on Inverness, took up a position
near the village of Auldearn, with 1,500 foot, and 250
horse, where he was attacked by Hurry, now rein-
forced by the clan Fraser, and the Earls of Seaforth
and Sunderland. " The village of Auldearn stands
upon a height, behind which, or on the east, is a
valley, which is overlooked by a ridge of little emi-
nences running in a northerly direction, and which
almost conceals the valley from view. In this holiow
Montrose arranged his forces in order of battle.
Having formed them into two divisions, he posted the
right wing on the north of the village, at a place where
there was a considerable number of dikes and ditches.
This body, which consisted of 400 men, chiefly Irish,
was placed under the command of Macdonald. On
taking their stations, Montrose gave them strict in-
junctions not to leave their position on any account,
as they were effectually protected by the w-alls
around them, not only from the attacks of cavalry
but of foot, and could, without much danger to
themselves, keep up a galling and destructive fire
upon their assailants. In order to attract the best
troops of the enemy to this difficult spot where they
could not act, and to make them believe that Mon-
trose commanded this wing, he gave the royal stan-
dard to Macdonald, intending, when they should get
entangled among the bushes and dikes with which
the ground to the right was covered, to attack them
himself with his left wing. And to enable him to
do so the more effectually, he placed the whole of
his horse and the remainder of the foot on the left
wing to the south of the village. The former he
committed to the charge of Lord Gordon, reserving
the command of the latter to himself. After placing
a few chosen foot with some cannon in front of the
village, under cover of some dikes, Montrose firmly
awaited the attack of the enemy The arrange-
ments of Hurry were these. He divided his foot
and his horse into two divisions each. On the right
wing of the main body of the foot, which was com-
manded by Campbell of Lawers, Hurry placed the
regular cavalry which he had brought from the south,
and on the left the horse of Moray and the North
under the charge of Captain Drummond. The other
division of foot was placed behind as a reserve and
commanded by Hurry himself. — When Hurry ob-
served the singular position which Montrose had
taken up, he was utterly at a loss to guess his de-
signs ; and though it appeared to him, skilful as he
was in the art of war, a most extraordinary and no-
vel sight, yet, from the well-known character of
Montrose, he was satisfied that Montrose's arrange-
ments were the result of a deep-laid scheme. But
what especially excited the surprise of Hurry, was
the appearance of the large yellow banner or royal
standard in the midst of a small body of foot station-
ed among hedges and dikes and stones, almost isolated
from the horse and the main body of the foot. To
attack this party, at the head of which he naturally
supposed Montrose was, was his first object. This
was precisely what Montrose had wished by com-
mitting the royal standard to the charge of Mac-
donald, and the snare proved successful. With the
design of overwhelming at once the right wing,
Hurry despatched towards it the best of his horse
and all his veteran troops, who made a furious attack
upon Macdonald's party, who defended themselves
bravely behind the dikes and bushes. The contest
continued for sometime on the right with varied suc-
cess, and Hurry, who had plenty of men to spare,
relieved those who were engaged by fresh troops.
Montrose, who kept a steady eye upon the motions
of the enemy, and watched a favourable opportunity
for making a grand attack upon them with the left
wing, was just preparing to carry his design into
execution, when a confidential person suddenly rode
up to him and whispered in his ear that the right
wing had been put to flight. This intelligence was
not, however, quite correct. It seems that Mac-
donald— who, says Wishart, ' was a brave enough
man, but rather a better soldier than a general, ex-
tremely violent, and daring even to rashness' — had
been so provoked with the taunts and insults of the
enemy, that in spite of the express orders he had re-
ceived from Montrose on no account to leave his
position, he had unwisely advanced beyond it to at-
tack the enemy, and though he had been several
times repulsed he returned to the charge. But he
was at last borne down by the great numerical su-
periority of the enemy's horse and foot, consisting of
veteran troops, and forced to retire in great disorder
into an adjoining enclosure. Nothing, however,
could exceed the admirable manner in which he
managed this retreat, and the courage he displayed
while leading off his men. Defending his body with
a large target, he resisted, single-handed, the assaults
of the enemy, and was the last man to leave the
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80
AUL
field. So closely indeed was he pressed by Hurry's
spearmen, that some of them actually came so near
him as to fix their spears in his target, which he cut
off by threes or fours at a time with his broadsword.
It was during this retreat that Montrose received
the intelligence of the flight of the right wing; but
he preserved his usual presence of mind, and to en-
courage his men who might get alarmed at hearing
such news, he thus addressed Lord Gordon, loud
enough to be heard by his troops, ' What are we
doing, my lord ? Our friend Macdonald has routed
the enemy on the right and is carrying all before
him. Shall we look on, and let him carry off the
whole honour of the day ?' A crisis had arrived,
and not a moment was to be lost. Scarcely, there-
fore, were the words out of Montrose's mouth, when
he ordered his men to charge the enemy. When his
men were advancing to the charge, Captain or Ma-
jor Drummond, who commanded Hurry's horse, made
an awkward movement by wheeling about his men,
and his horse coming in contact with the foot, broke
their ranks and occasioned considerable confusion.
Lord Gordon seeing this, immediately rushed in
upon Drummond's horse with his party, and put them
to flight. Montrose followed hard with the foot,
and attacked the main body of Hurry's army, which
he routed after a powerful resistance. The veterans
in Hurry's army, who had served in Ireland, fought
manfully, and chose rather to be cut down standing
in their ranks than retreat ; but the new levies from
Moray, Ross, Sutherland, and Caithness, fled in great
consternation. They were pursued for several miles,
and might have been all killed or captured if Lord
Aboyne had not, by an unnecessary display of en-
signs and standards, which he had taken from the
enemy, attracted the notice of the pursuers, who
halted for some time under the impression that a fresh
party of the enemy was coming up to attack them.
In this way, Hurry and some of his troops, who were
the last to leave the field of battle, as well as the
other fugitives, escaped from the impending danger,
and arrived at Inverness the following morning. As
the loss of this battle was mainly owing to Captain
Drummond, he was tried by court-martial at Inver-
ness and condemned to be shot, a sentence which was
carried into immediate execution. He was accused
of having betrayed the army, and it is said that he
admitted that after the battle had commenced he had
spoken with the enemy. The number of killed on
both sides has been variously stated. That on the
side of the covenanters has been reckoned by one
writer at 1,000, by another at 2,000, and by a third at
3,000 men. Montrose, on the other hand, is said
by Gordon of Sallagh to have lost about 200 men ;
while Spalding says, that he had only ' some twenty-
four gentlemen hurt, and some few Irish kill-
ed ;" and Wishart informs us that Montrose only
missed one private man on the left, and that the
right wing, commanded by Macdonald, 'lost only
fourteen private men.' This trifling loss on the
part of Montrose will appear almost incredible, and
makes us inclined to think that it must have been
greatly underrated ; for it is impossible to conceive
that the right wing could have maintained the ar-
duous struggle it did without a large sacrifice of life.
The clans who had joined Hurry suffered consider-
ably, particularly the Frazers, who, besides unmar-
ried men, are said to have left dead on the field no
less than eighty-seven married men. Among the
principal covenanting officers who were slain, were
Celonel Campbell ot Lawers, and Sir John and Mr.
Giu. on Murray., ami Colonel James Campbell, with
several other officers of interior note. The laird oi
Liwers' brother, Archibald Campbell, with several
other officers were taken prisoners. Captain Mac-
donald and William Macpherson of Invereschie, were
the only persons of any note killed on Montrose's
side. Montrose took several prisoners, whom, with
the wounded, he treated with great kindness. Such
of the former as expressad their sorrow for having
joined the ranks of the covenanters he released
others who were disposed to join him he received
into his army, but such as remained obstinate he im-
prisoned. Besides taking sixteen standards from the
enemy, Montrose got possession of the whole of their
baggage, provisions, and ammunition, and a con-
siderable quantity of money and valuable effects.
The battle of Auldearn was fought on the 4th of
May, according to some writers, and on the 9th
accordingtoothers." [Browne's 'History of the High-
lands,' vol. i. pp. 382— 385.]— The Rev. Mr. Bar-
clay, of Auldearn, has shown his good taste in collect-
ing and replacing, at considerable personal expense
and trouble, various ancient monuments which had
long lain scattered about the interesting churchyard
of his parish. He has also restored the original in-
scriptions of a tombstone and tablet — the latter in
the ancient choir attached to the church — which were
intended to commemorate the heroes of the Cove-
nant who fell at the battle of Auldearn. The tomb-
stone is inscribed thus: — " Heir lyeth Captaine Ber-
nard M'Kenzie, who, in defence of his religion and
eountrie feighting, died at Aulderne the 8 of May
an. 1645." The tablet bears — " This monument is
erected be Sir Robert Innes, younger of that ilk, in
memorie of Sir Alexander Dromond of Meedhope,
Sir Johr.e Morray, and Maister Gideo7i Morray, who
lies heir intered, who, fighting valiantly in defence
of their religione, king, and native countray, died at
Auldearn the 8 May, 1645."
AULDTOWN. See Loudon.
AULTGRANDE, or Altgrad, a river in Ross-
shire, in the parish of Kiltearn, which rises in Loch
Glass, about 6 miles from the sea, and, after a wind-
ing course, falls into the frith of Cromarty, about a
mile north of Kiltearn. For a considerable way it
runs through a vast chasm, occasioned by a slip in
the sandstone strata, called the Craig-grande or
Ugly-rock, of which Dr. Robertson, in the first Sta-
tistical report of Kiltearn, gives the following de-
scription : — " This is a deep chasm or abyss, formed
by two opposite precipices that rise perpendicularly
to a great height, through which the Aulfgrande
runs for the space of two miles. It begins at the
distance of 4 miles from the sea, by a bold projection
into the channel of the river, which diminishes in
breadth by at least one-half. The river continues
to run with rapidity for about three quarters of a
mile, when it is confined by a sudden jutting-out of
the rock. Here the side-view from the summit is
very striking. The course of the stream being thus
impeded, it whirls and foams and beats with violence
against the opposite rock, till, collecting strength, it
shoots up perpendicularly with great fury, and, forc-
ing its way, darts with the swiftness of an arrow
through the winding passage on the other side.
After passing this obstruction, it becomes in many
places invisible, owing partly to the increasing depth
and narrowness of the chasm, and partly to the view
being intercepted by the numerous branches of trees
which grow out on each side of the precipice. About
a quarter of a mile farther down, the country people
have thrown a slight bridge, composed of trunks of
trees covered with turf, over the rock, where the
chasm is about 16 feet broad. Here the observer, if
he can look down on the gulf below without any
uneasy sensations, will he gratified with a view equal-
ly awful and astonishing. The uilduess of the.steep
and rugged rocks,— the gloomy horror of the cliffs and
| caverns, where the genial rays of the sun never jet
AUL
81
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penetrated,— the waterfalls, which are heard pouring
down in different places of the precipice with sounds
various in proportion to their distances, — the hoarse
and hollow murmuring of the river, which runs at
the depth of near 130" feet below the surface of the
earth, — the fine groves of pines which majestically
climb the sides of a beautiful eminence that rises im-
mediately from the brink of the chasm, — all these ob-
jects cannot be contemplated without exciting emo-
tions of wonder and admiration in the mind of every
beholder."
AULTMORE, a rivulet in Banffshire, which falls
into the Isla, near Auchinhove. It rises in the ridge
of Altmore in Ruthven parish, and has a southernly
course of about 5 miles.
AUSDALE, a small village in the parish of La-
theron, Caithness-shire. It is 4 miles south-west of
Bciridale.
AUSKERRY, one of the Orkneys ; constituting
part of the parish of Stronsay. It is a small, un-
inhabited island, lying 2^ miles to the south of
Stronsay, and is appropriated to the pasturage of
cattle and sheep. Here are the remains of a chapel ;
and also the ruins of a house which retains the appel-
lation of The Monker, or Monk's house. A great
quantity of kelp used to be manufactured here.
AUTORSKYLE, or Ach-ta-skailt, a hamlet
in the shire of Cromarty, though locally situate in
the shire of Ross : it is in the parish of Loch Broom,
and is situated on the southern shore of Little Loch
Broom, at the point where the Little Broom flows
into the head of the loch.
AVEN* (The), or Avon, a river which issues
from a small lake of the same name which lies em-
bosomed among the vast mountains of Cairngorm, at
an altitude of about 1,800 feet above sea-level. [See
article Aven (Loch.)] It flows northwards through
a narrow valley, and beingjoinedby the Livatand Ter-
vie at Castle Drummin, falls into the Spey at Ballin-
dalloch, on the right bank, after a course of nearly
40 miles through a wild country. It abounds with
trout. '.' The Aven issues in a large stream from its
lake, and flows with so great pellucidity through its
deep and dark glen, that many accidents have oc-
curred to strangers by its appearing fordable in places
which proved to be of fatal depth. This quality is
marked by an old doggerel proverb,
' The water of Aven runs so clear.
It would beguile a mau of an hundred year.'
At Poll-du-ess, a little way above the first inhabited
place called Inchrory, the river is bounded by per-
pendicular rocks on each side. There the bed of the
stream is 44 feet broad, and the flood (in August,
1829,) was 23 feet above the usual level. Deep as
the ravine was, the river overflowed the top of it.
From correct measurements taken, the column of
water that passed here, with intense velocity, ap-
pears to have been about 1,200 square feet in its
* Mr. Thomas Richards, in his * Antiquae Linguae. Britanni-
cas Thesaurus,' under the article Afon, observes : " Avon is the
Droper name of several rivers in England; as Avou, the river
of Bristol; the Avod in Northamptonshire; another in War-
wickshire, where there is a town called Stratford-upon-Avon,
&c, for which this reason is to be assigned, viz. that the Eng-
lish, when they drove the Britons out of that part of Great
Britain, called from them England, took the appellatives of the
old inhabitants for proper names; and so, by mistaking Avon,
which, with us, signifies only a river in general, it came to
serve with them for the proper name of several of their rivers."
Mr. Ireland says that the name Avon, or Evon, is common to
rivers whose course is easy and gentle. There are three rivers
in Scotland which bear this name, besides several minor streams.
The term Avon is also prefixed to the names of several Scottish
streams : such as the Avon-Brouchag, and the Avon-Coll, in
Ross-shire; the Avon- Adail, and the Avou-Araig, in Argyle-
shire. Chalmers says that the term Amon, is merely a varia-
tion of Avon; and, in confirmation of this, we may remark
that the Almond of Perthshire is sometimes called Almon, and
sometimes Avon,
I
transverse section.'' [Sir T. D. Lauder's Account
of the Great Floods of August 1829, p. 233.] At
Ballindalloch the rise of the Aven exceeded that in
the flood of 1768 by 6 feet.
AVEN (The), or Avon, a river which takes its
rise in the parish of Cumbernauld, in Stirlingshire,
from Loch Fanny-side ; and, receiving considerable
additions in passing east, and then north-east through
Slamannan and Linlithgow parishes, falls into the
Forth, about half-way between Grangemouth and
Borrowstonness. Its estuary, like that of the
Canon water, about 2 miles to the west, is a deep
muddy cut through the wide extent of sands and
sleeclies which appear here at low water on the side
of the frith. Its whole course, including windings, is
about 20 miles, throughout 16 of which it forms the
boundary betwixt the shires of Stirling and Linlith-
gow. In the parish of Muiravon the Union canal is
carried across this river by a splendid aqueduct. See
Forth and Clyde Union Canal.
AVEN (The). See Avon.
AVEN (Loch), a small solitary sheet of water,
in the south-west extremity of Banffshire. It is
deeply embosomed amidst huge mountains. On its
western and northern edges, Cairngorm and Ben-
Buinac shoot up perpendicularly; while the vast limbs
of Ben-Macdhu and Ben-Main overhang its southern
extremity in frightful masses. Professor Wilson
has thus described this lonely mountain-tarn : " You
come upon the sight of it at once, a short way down
from the summit of Cairngorm, and then it is some
two thousand feet below you, itself being as many
above the level of the sea. But to come upon it so
as to feel best its transcendent grandeur, you should
approach it up Glenaven — and from as far down
as Inch-Rouran, which is about half-way between
Loch Aven and Tomantoul. Between Inchrory and
Tomantoul the glen is wild, but it is inhabited ;
above that house there is but one other ; and for
about a dozen miles — we have heard it called far
more — there is utter solitude. But never was there
a solitude at once so wild — so solemn — so serene — so
sweet ! The glen is narrow ; but on one side there
are openings into several wider glens that show you
mighty coves as you pass on ; on the other side the
mountains are without a break, and the only varia-
tion with them is from smooth to shaggy, from dark
to bright ; but their prevailing character is that of
pastoral or of forest peace. The mountains that
show the coves belong to the bases of Ben- Aven and
Ben-y-buird. The heads of those giants are not
seen — but it sublimes the long glen to know that it
belongs to their dominion, and that it is leading us
on to an elevation that ere-long will be on a level
with the roots of their topmost cliffs. The Aven
is so clear — on account of the nature of its channel-
that you see the fishes hanging in every pool ; and
'tis not possible to imagine how beautiful in such
transparencies are the reflections of its green fernv
banks. For miles they ate composed of knolls, sel-
dom interspersed with rocks, and there cease to be
any trees. But ever and anon we walk for a while
on a level floor, and the voice of the stream is mute.
Hitherto sheep have been noticed on the hill, but
not many, and red and black cattle grazing on the
lower pastures ; but they disappear, and we find
ourselves all at once in a desert. So it is felt to be,
coming so suddenly with its black heather on that
greenest grass ; but 'tis such a desert as the red-deer
love. "We are now high up on the breast of the
mountain, which appears to be Cairngorm; but such
heights are deceptive, and it is not till we again see
the bed of the Aven that we are assured we are still
in the glen. Prodigious precipices, belonging to
several different mountains — for between mass and
AVI
8-2
AVO
mass there is blue sky — suddenly arise, forming them-
selves more and more regularly into circular order,
as we near ; and now we have sight of the whole
magnificence ; yet vast as it is, we know not yet
how vast; it grows as we gaze, till in a while we
feel that sublimer it may not be ; and then so quiet
in all its horrid grandeur we feel too that it is beau-
tiful, and think of the Maker." [' Remarks on the
Scenery of the Highlands,' pp. 43, 44. J
AVICH (Loch), a fresh water lake in Nether
Lorn, Argyleshire, on the west side of Loch Awe,
from which its north-east extremity is about 2 miles
distant. Its western extremity is about 4 miles dis-
tant from the head of Loch Melfort. It is about 8
.miles in circumference, and its appearance is enriched
by some beautiful little islands. It is sometimes
called Loch Luina.
AVIEMORE, a village in the shire of Moray,
and parish of Duthil ; on the western bank of the
Spey ; 13^ miles north-east of Pitmain, and 126 miles
north-north-west of Edinburgh. There is a good
inn here at the base of Craigellachie. The scenery
betwixt Grantoun and Aviemore is somewhat tame
and uninteresting; but the view becomes sublime
when, after passing Aviemore inn, we ascend an
eminence which commands the plain of Alvie and
the course of the Spey, bounded by the lofty moun-
tains beyond Pitmain. Near Avielochan, about 2^
miles to the eastward of Aviemore, is Loch-na-
mhoon, a small sheet of water about 90 yards long,
by 50 across, in which there was, previous to the
great floods in 1S29, a floating island of about 30
yards diameter. It was composed chiefly of eriophori,
junci, and other aquatic plants, the roots of which
had become matted together to a depth of about 18
inches, and having about 18 inches of soil attached
to them. [Sir T. D. Lauder's Account of the Moray
Floods, pp. 1S9, 190.] — The elegant plant, Andro-
meda caerulea of Linnseus, has been found on the hills
near Aviemore.
AVOCH, in old records, written Avach or
Auach, and commonly pronounced Audi, a parish in
Ross-shire, and one of the eight parishes comprehend-
ed within the ancient district of Ardmeanach or the
Black Isle. It extends about 2A miles from east to
west, and 4 from south to north ; and is nearly of a
rhomboidal form. It is bounded by the parish of
Rosemarky towards the east ; by the Moray frith
and Munlochy bay on the south-east, south, and
south-west ; by the united parishes of Kilmuir- Wes-
ter and Suddie, on the west ; by Urquhart or Ferrin-
tosh on the north-west; and by the united parishes
of Cullicudden and Kirkmichael on the north. It
marches with these last on the hill of Mulbuy, or
Maole-buidhe, which attains here an altitude of 800
feet above sea-level, and extends nearly the whole
length of the Black Isle, from Cromarty to Beauley.
This parish consists chiefly of two ridges of hills of
moderate altitude, runningnearly parallel to each other
in a direction from east to west, with a gently sloping
vale on the north side of each, and the Mulbuy rising
behind all these towards the north. In Munlochy bay
there is an excellent quarry of hard reddish freestone,
accessible to boats on the water-edge. Out of this
quarry almost the whole of the extensive works of
Fort-George were built. The Moray frith at Avoch
is about 4 miles broad ; and a finer basin is scarcely
to be seen in the North. To an observer on this
shore it has all the appearance of a beautiful lake.
Chanonry point from the north, and that of Arder-
sier from the south-east, appear like projected arms
to clasp each other and break-off its connection with
the sea; while the point of Inverness, and the hills
in that neighbourhood, seem to bound it in like man-
ner in an opposite direction. The town of Inverness,
at the one end, and Fortrose and Fort-George at the
other, add much to the landscape. From a boat in
the middle of the frith, opposite to Culloden-house
and the bay of Avoch, the view is still grander and
more embellished. In the southern vale there is
a fine rivulet, called the burn of Avoch— -perhaps
the largest stream in Ardmeanach — which empties
itself into the sea near the church. A small lake,
called Scaddin's loch, near the eastern boundary of
this parish, was drained many years ago. Sir James
W. Mackenzie of Scat well, Bart., is proprietor of two-
thirds of the parish. His seat of Rosehaugh-house
stands on a beautiful bank, about H mile from th
sea, on the north side of the southern vale. The area
of this palish is about 7,000 acres. The total gross
rental, in 1790, was somewhat more than 730 bolls of
victual, and £900 sterling. The valued rent is
£2,531 6s. 4d. Scots. Assessed property, in 1815
£4,144. Population, in 1801, 1,476; in 1831, 1,956!
Houses 389 This parish is in the presbytery of
Chanonry and synod of Ross. Patron, Sir J. W.
Mackenzie, Bart. Stipend £249 9s. 6d., with a
manse, and a glebe of the value of £7 10s. Unap-
propriated teinds £74 18s. 5d. Church repaired in
1792. Schoolmaster's salary £30, with about £10
fees. There are four private schools. Number of
children at school, in 1834, about 240.
In 1793, the Statistical reporter stated : — " There
is not one surgeon, or attorney, or Roman Catholic,
or Jew, or negro, or gypsey, or foreigner ; nor any na-
tive of England, Ireland, or the British colonies, re-
siding at present in this parish. About the end of last
century, there was only one fishing-boat here, the
crew of which resided in the country. The village of
Seatown, which contains at present.93 families, has
been mostly if not entirely built since that period ;
and the fishermen there are now equal to any in the
north of Scotland, for hardiness, skill, and industry,
though their distance from the main ocean subjects
them to many inconveniences. From the beginning
of October to the middle of March, they commonly
fish for herrings in these upper parts of the frith.
Towards the end of March and in April they go
down along the coasts of Moray and Caithness, for
cod, skate, and haddocks. In May and June, some
of them are engaged by the Northumberland fishing
company to catch lobsters for the London market,
on the shores of Easter Ross about Tarbet-point.
The others, during those months, work at the had-
dock-fishing, to supply the towns of Inverness and
Fortrose, and the western part of the Black Isle.
About the middle of July, all the able fishermen
here go off to Caithness and Loch Broom, for six or
eight weeks, when the herring-fishery at those sta-
tions is commonly most favourable ; and in good
years they have been known to bring home from
thence, £8 or £10 sterling each man of nett gain.
They generally return in September to prepare for
the season at home, which, owing to the small depth
and clearness of this frith, begins only about the
autumnal equinox, or a fortnight thereafter. The
same causes oblige the fishermen, for the most part,
to delay their work here till evening or night, as the
herrings are then caugbt in much greater numbers
than during the day. In good seasons, it is not un-
common for each boat to bring in the quantity or
from 18 to 25 barrels in one night. When the shoal
comes up in the end of June or beginning of July,
the herrings prove generally best and most plentiful.
In winter 1786-7, besides those used at home, five
or six thousand barrels were cured here for exporta-
tion; and several sloops also were despatched with
full cargoes of unpacked herrings for Dunbar and
other towns on the east coast. The fishing-boats
used here are of a small size ; their keel being only
AVO
83
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26 or 27 feet in length ; the mouth from 30 to 32 feet
long, and 10 feet wide. The depth is so proportion-
ed to these dimensions as that they may sail well,
and may carry, besides the crew and their fishing
tackle, 3 or 4 tons safely. Six of these boats,
wrought by seven men each for the white fishing,
and two or three smaller ones or yawls occupied by
old men and boys, belong to the place. During the
herring-season they fit out a good many more : as
four men, with a boy to steer, serve this purpose,
and they then hire some additional hands from the
country. When the season here proves successful,
the fishing-boats of Nairn, Delnies, Campbeltown,
and Petty, join them ; and some likewise from Easter
Ross, Cromarty, Rosemarky, Fortrose, and Kessock ;
so that, even in this upper part of the frith, 60 or
SO herring-boats, containing above 300 men, may be
seen at times plying together on the same stream.
The quantity of canvas carried by the Avoch men,
and some others in this neighbourhood, is very much
disproportioned to the small size and burden of their
boats. The length of the mast is generally above
30 feet. On this they hoist an immense oblong sail,
containing nearly 80 square yards, or 700 square feet
of cloth. And they carry a foresail besides, on a pole
at the boat stem, of the same oblong form, but only
a tenth part of the size of the other. Their skill
and alertness in setting and reefing those sails, ac-
cording to the wind and weather, and the course
thev mean to pursue, are wonderful. No less re-
markable are the inhabitants of this thriving village
in general for their industry and diligence. They
manufacture, of the best materials they can procure,
not only all their own fishing-apparatus, but also a
great quantity of herring and salmon nets yearly for
the use of other stations in the North and West
Highlands. From Monday morning to Saturday
afternoon, the men seldom loiter at home 24 hours
at a time, when the weather is at all favourable for
going to sea; and the women and children, besides
the care of their houses, and the common operations
of gathering and affixing bait, and of vending the fish
over all the neighbouring country, do a great deal of
those manufactures. Some of their families also
cultivate from a rood to half-an-acre of potatoes
yearly for their own supply ; and others, whose chil-
dren are more advanced, raise and dress for the her-
ring nets a good quantity of hemp. Even the aged
and infirm employ themselves as busily as they can
at making and baiting hooks, and mending nets : so
that, except for a few days about Christmas, or on
the occasion of a fisher's wedding, there are none but
little children idle in the whole Seatown. And this
their industry turns out to good account ; for they
bring up and provide for their families decently in
their sphere ; they pay honestly all the debts they
contract in the country ; and, considering the number
of widows, and fatherless, and of infirm and aged
persons among them, very few of this village, except
in cases of great emergency, are found to solicit the
assistance of either public or private charity. The in-
habitants of Seatown live more comfortably than those
of the country ; and they begin now to build neat
commodious nouses which cost above .£20 sterling,
each. Among the fishers, it is usual for both sexes
to marry at or under 20 years of age ; and of
several of their families, there are four generations
now living in the place. Their women are, in gen-
eral, hardy and robust, and can bear immense bur-
dens. Some of them will carry a hundred weight of
wet fish a good many miles up the country. As the
bay is flat, and no pier has yet been built, so that the
boats must often take ground a good way off from
the shore, these poissardes have a peculiar custom of
carrying out and in their husbands on their backs,
' to keep their men's feet dry,' as they say. They
bring out, in like manner, all the fish and fishing
tackles ; and at these operations they never repine to
wade, in all weathers, a considerable distance into
the water. Hard as this usage must appear, yet
there are few other women so cleanly, healthy, or so
long livers in the country." The interesting account
here given of the habits of the fishing-population of
Seatown, or Avoch, as it is now generally called,
may be compared with our notices of the same class
of people under the articles Fisheerow and New-
haven. In 1831, the number of families in the
parish of Avoch engaged in the fisheries on the
coast was 84.
AVON (The), or Evan, a small tributary of the
Annan, falling from the heights on the borders of
Peebles-shire, and joining the Annan on its west
bank below Moffat. See article, The Annan.
AVON (The), or Aven, a beautiful stream in
Lanarkshire, a tributary of the Clyde. It rises on
the south of Distinetthorn hill in Ayrshire, at an
elevation of about 800 feet above sea-level, and
flows north-east between Carnscoch hill in Ayrshire,
and Gravstone hill in Avondale parish, to Torfoots,
a little below which it is joined by the Glengivel or
Glengeil water, flowing from the south. Two miles
farther on it is joined by Drumclog burn, coming from
Moss Malloch on the north. A mile and a half be-
low this point it receives the Little Cadder from the
north, and soon after Lockart water from the south.
Passing about a mile to the south of the town of
Strathaven, it receives its largest tributary, the Kype,
which flows from the south, and precipitates itself near
its mouth over a cascade of about 50 feet in height.
From this point it pursues a north-east course through
Avondale and Stonehouse parishes, till it touches the
western boundary of Dalserf, where it turns nearly
north, and, after forming the dividing line betwixt
Dalserf and Stonehouse parishes, enters the parish of
Hamilton, flows through the Duke of Hamilton's
ground, passes to the south of the town of Hamilton,
and falls into the Clyde about a mile to the south-
east of that town, after a course of about 28 miles
including windings. The Lanarkshire Avon is a
beautiful stream, and gives name to the parish ot
Avondale or Strathaven, which it divides into two
nearly equal parts. The upper part of its course is
through a district very destitute of wood ; but in the
lower part it presents much pastoral beauty. The
name of this river is uniformly pronounced Aivon by
the people of the district.
AVONDALE, or AvENDALE.a parish in Lanark-
shire ; bounded on the north by the parishes of Kil-
bride and Glassford ; on the east by Glassford and
Stonehouse ; on the south by Lesmahagow, and
Muirkirk in Ayrshire ; and on the west by Loudon,
Galston, and Sorn parishes in Ayrshire. Its great-
est length, from Avonhead on the south-west, to
Righead on the north-east, is about 14 miles ; its
greatest breadth, from Regal hill on the south, to
the boundary of Kilbride parish on the north, is
about 8 miles. The total superficies of this parish
must be nearly 40,000 acres; and the present rental
about .£20,000. Valued rent £7,650 Scots. As-
sessed property, in 1815, .£16,287. Hamilton ot
Wishaw, in his account of the sheriffdom of Lanark,
compiled about the beginning of last century, de-
scribes this " great paroch," as " a plentiful country,
especially in grain, and no want of corns." Its
agricultural reputation is still good ; its dairy hus-
bandry is particularly celebrated ; and in the art of
fattening calves for the butcher, the farmers of Strath-
aven are unrivalled in Scotland. [The agricultural
reader will find the system of calf-rearing as practised
here described in a paper by Mr. Aiton of Hamilton,
AVO
84
AWE
in the ' Quarterly Journal of Agriculture,1 vol. x. p.
249.] The upper part of the parish is wholly moor-
land, and presents a succession of hills, mosses, and
moors, on which there is capital grouse-shooting.
The fertility of the soil", and consequent richness of
cultivation and beauty of landscape, increases as we
descend the strath of the Avon, which below Strath-
aven becomes, as Wordsworth has described it in one
of his sonnets, ' a fertile region green with wood.' In
very ancient times the great Caledonian forest extend-
ed up Avondale, by Strathaven, and, passing over the
high ground near Loudon hill, entered Ayrshire.
Trunks of huge oaks, the relics of this forest, have been
discovered near the head of the Avon, and amongst
the mosses that still exist here ; and at Chatleherault,
in the neighbourhood of Hamilton, there still exist
some noble ashes and oaks, the remnants probably of
the ancient forest. [See a paper by Thomas Brown,
Esq., in ' Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal,'
July, 1834.] — The principal river in this parish has
been described in the immediately preceding article ;
and the reader is referred to the separate article
Strathaven, for an account of the principal village.
The Duke of Hamilton is the principal heritor in
Avondale ; but property here is greatly subdivided.
Hamilton of Wishaw states that " this baronie did
anciently belong to the Bairds ; and thereafter came
to Sinclair ; and from them to the Earle of Douglas,
with whom it continued severall ages ; and after his
fatall forfaulture, in anno 1455, it was given by King
James the Third to Andrew Stewart, whom he
created Lord Avendale ; and it continued with him
and his heires untill 1538, or thereby, that he ex-
changed it with Sir James Hamilton for the baronie
of Ochiltree, in the parliament 1543 [1534 ?]. From
which tyme, it continued with the successors of Sir
James Hamilton untill it was acquyred by James,
iirst of that name, Marquess of Hamilton ; and con-
tinueth with his successors since. This paroch is
large, and lyeth betwixt the parishes of Killbryde to
the west, Hamilton to the north and north-east, and
Glasfoord, Stonehouse,and some parts of the shire of
Ayre to the south and south-east. There are many
small vassals in this parish, besyde three or four
gentlemen, — Overtoun, Netherfield, Rylandsvde, Le-
them, and Kype ; but all of them hold of the familie
of Hamilton." [Maitland club edn., p. 10.] Popu-
lation, in 1801, 3,623; in 1831, 5,761; of whom
3,597 belonged to the town of Strathaven. — This
parish is in the presbytery of Hamilton, and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Duke of Hamilton.
Stipend £305 2s. 6d., with a manse, and a glebe of
the value of £24. Unappropriated tenuis £955 18s.
8d. Church built in 1772; sittings 803. The
established minister is assisted by a catechist A
new chapel, in connection with the Establishment,
has' been greeted by subscription in the town of
Strathaven ; sittings 803 A United Secession con-
gregation was established in Strathaven, in 1764.
Church built in 1820 ; sittings 630. Stipend £120,
with manse and garden. There are two congrega-
tions in connection with the Relief body. Of these
the first was established in 1777, when the church
now occupied by them was built; sittings 1,087.
Stipend £160, with a manse, and glebe of the value
of £30. The West Relief church was built in 1835 ;
cost £1,400; sittings 976. Stipend £120, with a
manse and garden The parish-schoolmaster has a
salary of £34 4s. 4-id., with about£25 fees. Num-
ber of pupils 60. There are 11 private schools,
which, in 1834, were attended by 453 children. —
According to a census made by the dissenters, in
January, 1836, out of a total population of 6,155,
there were in connection with the established church
2,536; with the Relief, 2,827; with the United
Secession, 486 ; Roman Catholics, 85 ; and some
others.
The memorable battle of Drumelog, in which
'cruel Claver'se' was signally defeated by a small
body of Covenanters collected together under Ham-
ilton, Burley, Cleland, and Hackston, was fought
on the farm of that name in the upper part of this
parish, about 2 miles to the east of Loudon hill, on
Sabbath, June 1, 1679. The localities of the spot,
as well as the engagement itself, are very accurately
described in ' Old Mortality.' In this affair Claver-
house lost his cornet and about a score of his troopers;
on the side of ' the hillmen' only four were killed.'"
A monument has recently been erected at Drumelog
in commemoration of this noble struggle. It is in the
Gothic style, 23 feet high, and does credit to its archi-
tect and sculptor, Mr. Robert Thorn At Kype, in
this parish, stood, in ancient times, a chapel dedicated
to St. Bridget, called St. Bride's chapel.
AVONDHU. See Forth.
AWE (Loch), a beautiful lake in that district of
Argyleshire called Lorn, between Loch-Fyne and
Loch-Etive. From Inverary, by the road through
* The victors commemorated their triumph in a rude ballad
entitled ' The Battle of Loudon hill,' which Scott has preserved
in his 'Border Minstrelsy,' [Cadell's edn., voi. ii. pp. 206—225,3
though not without a quantity of industriously gleaned intro-
ductory matter, well-calculated to throw ridicule on those wor-
thy men
" Who fled to woods, caverns, and jutting rocks,
In deadly scorn of superstitious riles, —
Or what their scruples construed to be such."
With better feeling, though perhaps with more of the imagina-
tiveness of the poet than the veracity of the historian, has Al-
lan Cunningham indited his Cameronian legends and baliads. In
the 7th vol. of Blackwood's Magazine, there is a bundle of very
spirited Cameronian ballads from Allan's pen, from one of
which, on ' The Discomfiture of the Godless at Drumelog,1 we
shall here quote a couple of stanzas : —
"This morning they came with their brass trumpets braying,
Their gold pennons flaunting, their war-horses neighing;
They came and they found us— the brand and the spear
Soon emptied their saddles and sobered their cheer;
They came and they sounded — their trumpet and drum
Now give a mute silence, their shouters are dumb;
The chariot is smote, and the charioteer slcepiog,
And Death his dark watch o'er their captains is keeping.
Oh ! who wrought this wonder ? — men ask me — this work
Is not of man's hand for the covenant kirk;
Few — few — were the saints 'neath their banners arraying,
Weak, hungry, and faint, nor grown mighty in slaying;
And strong, fierce, and furious, and thirsting and fain
Of our blood— as the dust of the summer for rain —
Came our foes ; but the firm ground beneath their feet iurne
Into moss and quagmire — above their heads burned
Heaven's hot and swift fires— the sweet wind to-day
Had the power for to blast, and to smite, and to slay 1"
If we may believe the Nithsdale bard, however, Cameronian
meekness has been proof agaiust all the scorn and misrepresen-
tation which has been heaped upon the party and the cause
for which they struggled so manfully :— " To the mimicries of
the graceless and the profane, the poets have added their sar-
casm and their ridicule ; and William Meston — a man of much
wit, but of little feeling for the gentle, and pathetic, and lofty
beauties of poetry— has seized upon some of the common infir
mities of human nature, and made tltetn the reproach of this
respectable race. Having little sympathy in the poetical part
of their character, he has sought to darken the almost cloudless
day of their history with specks which would not detract much
from the fixed splendours of the established kirk, but which
hang black and ominous amid the purity of Cameronian faith
and practice. Lately, too, the Mightv Warlock of Caledonia,
has shed a natural and supernatural light round the founders of
the Cameronian dynasty ; and, as his business was to grapple
with the ruder and fiercer portion of their character, the gen-
tler graces of their nature were not called into action, and the
storm and tempest and thick darkness of John Balfour of Bur-
ley, have darkened the whole breathing congregation of the
Cameronians, and turned their sunny-hill-side into a dreary
desert. All the sufferers of England, and of Scotland too, have
lifted up their voices against this ancient remnant of the Scot-
tish covenant, [Is this so ?] and all the backslidings of the nu-
merous sectaries of the North have been tairly wrought into a
kind of tapestry picture, and hung over the honoured grave of
Richard Cameron. All this, which would have provoked the
patience, and obtained the anathemas of other churches, failed
to discompose the meekness and the sedate serenity of the
mountaineers; they read, and they smiled at Meston, and with
the unrivalled novelist they are charmed and enchanted ; they
would sooner part with the splendour of the victory of Drum-
clog, or the name of Alexander Peden, than pass the Torwood
curse on the legend of Old Mortality." [' Blackwood's Maga-
zine,' vol. vii. pp. d8!i, 483.3
AWE
85
AWE
Glen-Aray, it is distant about 12 miles; the distance
from Tyndrum, through Glen-Orchy, is 16 miles.
The chief beauty of Loch-Awe is comprised be-
tween its eastern extremity and Port-Sonnachan,
about 6 miles down its southern shore. Here the
scenery can hardly be equalled in Great Britain ; but
the remaining portion of the lake is uninteresting to
the traveller, possessing little variety, and neither
beauty nor grandeur. At its eastern end, however,
the stranger may spend weeks in examining the
beauty of its wooded and varied shores and islands,
or the grandeur of its lofty mountains and deeply-
secluded glens. The water of the lake appears a
basin enclosed among mountains of rude and savage
aspect, but lofty and grand, — " filling," says Dr. Mac-
culloch, "at once the eye and the picture, and li-
terally towering above the clouds." On the north
side, the elevated ridge of Cruachan rises simple and
majestic, throwing its dark shadows on the water,
which, spacious as we know it to be, seems almost
lost amid the magnitude of surrounding objects. On
the opposite side, Ben-Laoidh, Ben-a-Chleidh, and
Meall-nan-Tighearnan form a striking and magnificent
termination to the landscape. Among all the moun-
tains, however, which surround Loch-Awe, Ben-
Cruachan soars pre-eminent. In approaching Loch-
Awe through Glen-Aray, the traveller finds little to
attract his attention after leaving the pleasure
grounds around Inverary castle, until he has attained
the head of the glen, and begins to descend towards
Cladich. There, however, Loch-Awe, with its beau-
tiful expanse of water, its islands, and the magnifi-
cent screen of mountains which enclose it, bursts at
once upon his view. Ben-Cruachan is immediately
opposite to him, its summit enveloped among clouds ;
and the dark pass of the river Awe winding along its
base. To the east is seen the castle of Kilchurn,
the openings of Glen-Strae and Glen-Orchy, and the
lofty mountains which enclose them lessening gra-
dually in the distance ; to the west the long and
sinuous portion of the lake glitters like a silver
stream amid the dark heathy hills and moors which
form its banks. See articles Ben-Cruachan, Kil-
chukn, and Glenorchy. Loch-Awe is 30 miles
in length, but in the greater part of its extent not
above a mile in breadth. Its eastern portion,
however, is considerably broader ; and at the open-
ing of the river Awe it is not less than 4 miles
across. Here its beauty is further increased by a
number of islands which spot its surface and give
relief to its expanse. There is one peculiarity in
Loch-Awe which is not to be found in any other
Highland lake : instead of its being emptied at either
end, the river Awe flows from its northern side,
and pours its waters into Loch-Etive at Bunawe.
Looking down upon the loch from Cladich, a long
heathy isle called Innishail, or ' the Fair island,'
presents itself to the view. In this island, the re-
mains of a small monastery with its chapel are still
to be seen ; and its ancient burying-ground is still
■iometimes used. It was inhabited by nuns of the
Cistercian order, memorable, says tradition, for the
sanctity of their lives, and the purity of their man-
ners. At the Reformation, when the innocent were
involved equally with the guilty in the sufferings of
the times, this house was suppressed, and the tem-
poralities granted to Hay, abbot of Inchaffrey, who,
abjuring his former tenets of religion, embraced the
cause of the reformers. Inchaffrey was erected into
a temporal lordship by King James VI., in favour of
the abbot. The old church-yard on this island is
an object of peculiar interest, from its ancient tomb-
stones, the greater part of which are carved in a
variety of ways. Some appear, from the figures cut
upon them, to have covered the graves of religious
persons ; others, having the long two-hand sword, oi
the claymore, mark the graves of warriors; on others,
again, mailed figures point out the resting-place of
knights and crusaders ; and, one stone in particular,
from the arms, coronet, and numerous figures it con-
tains, would lead us to suppose that in this lone
spot even the noble had been buried. Among other
families, the M' Arthurs appear to have made this
their place of interment, as numerous stones bear the
name of individuals of that ancient race. This sept
formerly inhabited the shores of Loch- Awe, opposite
to this island, as the M'Gregors did the lands at the
upper portion of the lake : both, however, have given
way before the overpowering influence and good
fortune of the Campbells Beyond Innishail, and
farther up the lake, is Innes Fraoch, or ' the Heather
isle.' Here is an ancient castle, the residence at one
period, of the chief of the MacNaughtans. It is a
small but strongly built fortalice. Its solitary walls
are over-shadowed by chance-planted trees and hush-
es, and are the haunts of sea-birds and large water-
fowl. This island is the subject of a very singular
highland tradition. It was the Hesperides of the
Highlands, and produced, according to Celtic poetry,
the most delicious apples, but which were guarded
by an enormous serpent. Dr. W. Beattie, in his
' Scotland Illustrated,' [vol. ii. pp. 99 — 101.] has
given a very absurd and tasteless amplification of the
simple Gaelic legend connected with this island. It
is singular, thus to find in a remote district of the
Highlands of Scotland, a traditionary fable which is
generally considered as classic.
The shores of Loch Awe, and the recesses of the
surrounding mountains and glens, seem anciently to
have been the retreat of the Campbells in times of
danger. ' It's a far cry to Lochow !' was the slogan,
or war-cry of the knights of Lochow and their follow-
ers : with it they derided their foes, and indicated the
impossibility of reaching them in their distant fast-
nesses. At a still earlier period, this district form-
ed a portion of the extensive tract of country at one
time possessed by the numerous and powerful Clan-
Gregor; but so early as the 15th century, the Camp-
bells had obtained a footing here. Not a stone of
the MacGregor's dwelling in Glen-Strae is now re-
maining to mark the spot where his mansioa stood ;
but in many a corrie, and many a lonely glen, the
highlander still points out where a fugitive son of
Alpine stood at bay, and fell beneath the extermin-
ating rage of his relentless pursuers. In a wild cor-
rie or hollow of Ben-Cruachan, is poiuted out a huge
stone from behind which a MacGregor, no longer
able to continue his flight, shot a blood-hound which
had been set upon his track, and from which he found
it impossible otherwise to make his escape. This
is alleged to have been the last instance in which
any of the outlawed Clan-Alpine were chased as
beasts of prey.
AWE (The), a rapid and powerful mountain-
stream by which — as noticed in the preceding article
— Loch Awe discharges its waters into Loch Etive.
It issues from the western extremity of an offset of
Loch Awe, projecting in a north-west direction, near
its head ; and flows in a north-west course through
Mid Lorn to Bunawe on Loch Etive, where there is
a ferry across that loch into Upper Lorn. It is about
7 miles in length, and is skirted on the north side by
the road from the head of Loch Awe to Bunawe and
Connel ferries. A considerable portion of the western
base of Cruachan seems to have been torn asunder to
form an opening for the waters of the lake ; and the
river flows through a gulley or hollow of the most
frightful description. " This pass," says Mr. Allan,
" is about 3 miles in length ; its east side is bounded
by the almost inaccessible steeps which form the base
AWE
86
AYR
of the vast and rugged mountain of Cruachan. The
craigs rise in some places almost perpendicularly from
the water ; and, for their chief extent, show no space
nor level at their feet, but a rough and narrow edge
of stony beach. Upon the whole of these cliffs grew
a thick and interwoven wood of all kinds of trees,
both timber, dwarf, and coppice ; no track existed
through the wilderness, but a winding part which
sometimes crept along the precipitous height, and
sometimes descended in a straight pass along- the
margin of the water. Near the extremity of the de-
file, a narrow level opened between the water and
the craig ; but a great part of this, as well as the pre-
ceding steeps, was formerly enveloped in a thicket,
which showed little facility to the feet of any but
the martins and the wild cats. Along the west side
of the pass, lies a wall of sheer and barren craigs :
from behind they rise in rough, uneven, and heathy
declivities, out of the wide muir before mentioned,
between Loch-Etive and Loch-Awe; but in front
they terminate abruptly in the most frightful preci-
pices, which form the whole side of the pass, and de-
scend at one fall into the water which fills its trough.
At the north end of this barrier, and at the termina-
tion of the pass, lies that part of the cliff which is
called Craiganuni : at its foot the arm of the lake
gradually contracts its water to a very narrow space,
and at length terminates at two rocks (called the rocks
of Brandir), which form a straight channel, something
resembling the lock of a canal. From this outlet
there is a continual descent toward Loch-Etive, and
from hence the river Awe pours out its current in a
furious stream, foaming over a bed broken with
holes, and cumbered with masses of granite and
whinstone. If ever there was a bridge near Craig-
anuni in ancient times, it must have been at the rocks
of Brandir. From the days of Wallace to those of
General Wade, there were never passages of this
kind ; but in places of great necessity, too narrow
for a boat, and too wide for a leap, even then they
were but an unsafe footway, formed of the trunks of
trees, placed transversely from rock to rock, tin-
stripped of their bark, and destitute of either plank
or rail. For such a structure there is no place in the
neighbourhood of Craiganuni, but at the rocks above-
mentioned. In the lake, and on the river, the water
is far too wide ; but, at the strait, the space is not
greater than might be crossed by a tall mountain
pine, and the rocks on either side are formed by na-
ture like a pier. That this point was always a place
of passage, is rendered probable by its facility, and
the use of recent times. It is not long since it was
the common gate of the country on either side the
river and the pass. The mode of crossing is yet in
the memory of people living, and was performed by
a little currach moored on either side the water, and
a stout cable fixed across the stream from bank to
bank, by which the passengers drew themselves
across, in the manner still practised in places of the
same nature. It is no argument against the existence
of a bridge in former times, that the above method
only existed in ours, rather than a passage of that
kind which might seem the more improved expe-
dient. The contradiction is sufficiently accounted
for, by the decay of timber in the neighbourhood.
Of old, both oaks and firs of an immense size abound-
ed within a very inconsiderable distance ; but it is
now many years since the destruction of the forests
of Glen-Etive and Glen-Urcha has deprived the coun-
try of all the trees of a sufficient size to cross the
.strait of Brandir ; and it is probable, that the currach
was not introduced till the want of timber had dis-
enabled the inhabitants of the country from main-
taining a bridge. It only further remains to be
noticed, that at some distance below the rock of
Brandir there was formerly a ford, which was used
for cattle in the memory of people yet living. From
the narrowness of the passage, the force of the
stream, and the broken bed of the river, it was,
however, a dangerous pass, and could only be at-
tempted with safety at leisure, and by experience."
Mr. Allan has clearly identified the pass of Brandir
with the scene of a memorable exploit of Scotland's
favourite hero, Sir William Wallace. It appears
that Edward of England had given a grant of Argyle
and Lorn to a creature of his own, named M'Fadyan,
who proceeded to take possession of the country at
the head of 15,000 Anglo-Irish and renegade Scots.
Before this force Duncan of Lorn retreated towards
Loch Awe, where he was joined by Sir Niel Camp-
bell ; but the force of the invader compelled them to
throw themselves into a castle which crowned a rock
in this formidable pass, called the Crag-an-aradh, or
' Rock of the Ladder.' Wallace, on being apprized
of their danger, hastened to their relief, and man-
aged to surprise M'Fadyan 's army in a situation
where flight was impracticable. " The conflict con-
tinued for two hours, with unexampled fury on both
sides. Multitudes of the Irish were forced over the
rocks into the gulf below. Many threw themselves
into the water to escape the swords of the Scots ;
while various bands of highlanders, stationed among
the rocks, sent down showers of stones and arrows
where the enemy appeared most obstinate in the
strife. Wallace, armed with a steel mace, at the
head of his veterans, now made a charge, which de-
cided the fate of the day. Those Scots who had
joined the Irish, threw away their arms, and on their
knees implored mercy. M'Fadyan, with fifteen ot
his men, having made his way over the rocks, and
attempted to conceal himself in a cave, ' vvndyr
cragmdr,' Duncan of Lorn requested permission ot
Wallace to follow and punish him for the atrocities
he had committed ; and it was not long before he re-
turned, bringing his head on a spear, which Sir Niel
Campbell caused to be fixed on the top of the rock
in which he had taken shelter. After the defeat of
M'Fadyan, Wallace held a meeting of the chiefs of
the West Highlands, in the priory of Ardchattan ,
and having arranged some important matters respect-
ing the future defence of the district, he returned to
his duties in the Low Country, having received an ac-
cession to his numbers, which covered any loss he had
sustained in the late engagement. The spoil which
the Scots collected after the battle is-said to have been
very considerable ; any personal share in which our
hero, as usual, refused." [Carrick's Life of Wallace,
edn. 1840, pp. 45. 46.]— Here too, in 1306, after a
fierce struggle at Dalree. a sharp skirmish took place
between Bruce and Macdongal of Lorn. This chief
had throughout opposed the claims of the Bruce, who,
after gaining the ascendency, determined to punish
him. A detached party of archers having taken
a commanding position on the hills, annoyed the Ar-
gyle men so much that they retreated ; and, having
attempted in vain to break down the bridge across
the Awe, they were defeated with great slaughter :
Lorn himself escaping by means of his boats on the
lake. This defeat argues little for the military tac-
tics of John and his followers ; as the pass of the
river Awe might easily be defended by a handful of
men against a very superior force ; it is a stronger
position than even Killicrankie. — The bridge of Awe
is also the scene of Sir Walter Scott's beautiful tale
of the Highland Widow and her son, which must
be in the recollection of all our readers. His de-
scription of this wild spot is — like all his other de-
scriptions— not more graphic than correct.
AYR (The), a river which rises at Glenhuck in
the eastern extremity of the parish of Muirkirk, in
AYR.
87
Ayrshire ; and, after a course of about 33 miles near-
ly due west, in which it divides the county at its
broadest part into two nearly equal portions, falls
into the sea at the town of Ayr, where its estuary
forms the harbour. It is for some miles of its course
only a small rivulet, flowing among holms and haughs
through an open moorland district ; but, being joined
by the Greenock, and ' the haunted Garpal,' it be-
comes a large body of water. It is augmented by
'the winding Lugar' at Barskimming, and by 'the
brawling Coil' at Shaws. " Most of its course for
the last 20 miles is bounded by steep rocky banks,
generally covered with wood, which in several places
are highly picturesque. In a few spots the banks
open, and some enchanting holms are found between
them ; but in many places the river is seen for some
miles together, dashing and foaming in a deep and
narrow chasm, rendered dark and gloomy by the
bulky foliage of the trees which overhang the stream."
[Alton's ' View,' p. 59.] The Ayr is subject to
heavy floods during winter. After continued rains
in the upland districts through which it flows, in the
language of Burns,
" from Glenbnrk down to the Ratton-key,
Au!d Ayr is just one lengthened tumbling sea."
Sorn castle, Ballochmyle, Auchencruive, and Auch-
inleck, may be mentioned as worthy of notice for
their beautiful situation on the banks of this river.
The Ayr was anciently named Vidogara. The ety-
mology of the present name of the river is doubtful.
In its bed is procured a species of claystone which is
well-known to artisans by the name of ' Water-of-
Ayr stone,' and proves a fine whetstone. Salmon are
caught in the mouth of the river during the summer-
season ; but the fishing in this river is not nearly so
productive as that in the Doon.
AYR, anciently Are, sometimes Air, a parish in
Ayrshire, about 5 miles in length, and 3 in breadth.
It is bounded on the north by the river just described,
which divides it from Newton-upon-Ayr ; on the
east by Coylstone ; on the south-east by Dalrvmple ;
on the south-west by the river Doon, which separates
it from Maybole ; and on the west by the sea. The
surface is flat and sandy, but here and there inter-
spersed with beautiful plantations and villas. To-
wards the east the country rises gradually; in the
immediate neighbourhood of the sea there is a good
deal of light shifting sand, especially in the neigh-
bourhood of Prestwick. Aiton estimates the super-
ficies at 4,000 Scots acres. Real rent, in 1799, £3,700.
Present rental about £10,000. Assessed property,
in 1815, £16,576. There are two small lakes in this
parish, one toward the south side named Carleny,
and the other at the eastern extremity called Loch
Fergus. The latter has a small island in the centre,
but is not above a mile in circumference. There is
plenty of muirstone in this district ; but freestone is
neither abundant nor good ; and coal is not wrought,
although all the neighbouring parishes possess inex-
haustible pits of the finest coal. There is a strong
chalybeate spring on the north side of the river Ayr,
which is famous in scrofulous and scorbutic com-
plaints. Tradition reports an engagement to have
taken place in the valley of Dalrjmple, between
Fergus I., king of Scots, and Coilus, king of the
Britons, in which both leaders lost their lives. The
names of places in the neighbourhood seem derived
from this circumstance ; and a circular mound, mark-
ed by two large upright stones, and long the re-
puted burial-place of 'auld King Coil,' having been
opened in May, 1837, was found to contain four
urns. History has recorded two distinguished char-
acters in literature, natives of this parish : Johannes
Scotus, surnamed Erigena, and the Chevalier Ram-
say, author of Cyrus's Travels, and other works. To
these may be added John L. M'Adam, Esq., of road-
making celebrity, who was born at Ayr in 1756, and
Lord Alloway. " Population, in 1801, 5,492 ; in 1831,
7,606 ; by a census in January 1836, 7,475 ; of whom
4,958 belonged to the Established church, and 2,424
to other denominations, chiefly the Relief. Houses
892 This parish is in the presbytery of Ayr, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. It consists of the united
parishes of Ayr and Alloway. Patron, the Crown-, and
the Magistrates of Ayr and Kirk session. It was an-
ciently a prebendal benefice of Glasgow.* There are
two parish-churches, both in the town of Ayr. The
old one was built in 1654, on the site of the Grey
Friars convent, in place of St. John the Baptist's
church which Cromwell had converted into an ar-
mory for his citadel in Ayr. It is a massive
cruciform structure, and is surrounded with the
town burying-ground. The new church was built
in 1810, by the town council of Ayr, at an expense ot
£5,703. Total sittings in both churches, 1,982. The
charge is collegiate, and the two ministers officiate in-
discriminately in both churches. Stipend of the 1st
charge £178 5s., with a manse and glebe ; of the 2d,
£283 6s. 9d., with allowance for a manse, and a glebe
of the valueof £28 6s. 8d. Mr. Ferguson of Doonholm
left the interest of £1,000 to be divided between the
two ministers. — The Relief church was built in 1816,
at an expense of £3,000; sittings 1,182. Stipend
£180.— TheWesleyan Methodist church was built in
1813, at an expense of £1,500; sittings 530. Sti-
pend £86, with a manse There are also Indepen-
dent, Roman Catholic, and Episcopalian chapels on
the opposite side of the river The parochial schools
were formed into an academy in 1797, which is con-
ducted by 6 teachers and 2 assistants. The salary
of the rector is £100 per annum ; that of the other
teachers from £15 to £22. There were 460 pupils
in the academy in 1833 ; and above 600 children at-
tended the private schools in the parish, which were
16 in number. Mr. Ferguson of Doonholm bequeath-
ed the annual interest of £1,000 to the public school-
masters of Ayr ; and, in 1825, Captain John Smith
bequeathed a sum for erecting a school for poor chil-
dren here which produces £88 yearly. There is also
a school of industry.
The royal burgh of Ayr, the county-town of Ayr-
shire, and the seat of a circuit-court, is of great
antiquity. It is 75 miles south-west of Edinburgh,
34 distant from Glasgow, 12 from Kilmarnock, 11
from Irvine, and 9 from Maybole. It is situated at
the western end of a fertile and beautiful valley, ■
on the southern bank of the Ayr, at its influx into
the frith of Clyde. The principal or High street
is broad and spacious, with a row of houses on
each side presenting a motley groupe of elegant
structures and mean buildings, in most uncouth
and amorphous combination, with fronts, gables,
and corners projecting to the street as chance or
caprice may have directed; and having, till within
these few years, the huge mass of the tolbooth and
town-hall in the centre, with a spire 135 feet high.
At the end of this street is ' the Auld brig o' Ayr,'
consisting of four lofty and strongly framed arches,
said to have been built in the reign of Alexander
III., and connecting the town with Newton-on-Ayr ;
and 150 yards below is ' the New brig,' a fine struc-
ture of five arches, built in 1787-8, from a design by
Robert Adam. At the junction of the High street and
Sandgate are the assembly-rooms, with a spire 226
feet high. The court and record rooms, and county-
hall, are in Wellington square, near the south end of
* The ' Rectoria de Ayr' was taxed £26 13s. 4d., the tewtfe.
of ite estimated value, uj the reign oi James V,
88
AYR.
Sandgate. They were designed by Mr. Wallace,
and erected at an expense of .£30,000. The streets
are lighted with gas, and well-paved. Ayr was
erected into a royal burgh by William the Lion,
about the year 1202; and the extensive privileges
granted by that charter are still enjoyed by the
town. This charter contains a reference to the
granter's " New castle upon Are" which was built
about five years before, and probably stood at the east-
ern corner of Cromwell's fort. Here the heroic exploits
of Sir William Wallace began ; and here Edward
I. fixed one of his most powerful garrisons. Oliver
Cromwell, too, judging it a proper place to build
a fortress, took possession of the old church of St.
John the Baptist, and converted it and the neigh-
bouring ground, to the extent of 10 or 12 acres,
into a regular citadel. On one of the mounts, with-
in the walls of this fortress, stood the old castle of
Ayr, and the old church — the tower of which still
remains — noted for the meeting of the Scottish
parliament on the 26th of April, 1315, when the
succession to the Crown was settled on Edward
Bruce, Earl of Carrick, the king's gallant brother.
In 1830 upwards of £700 were expended in rebuilding
Wallace's tower, in the High street ; the foundation,
however, having given way it was rebuilt, in 1832, at
afurther expense of .£1,500. The new tower is a
Gothic building 113 feet high, ornamented with a
statue of Sir William Wallace by Thom. In an-
cient times we find Ayr to have been a place of
considerable trade. Buchanan characterises it as
" emporium non ignobile.' And Defoe remarks of
it : " It is now like an old beauty, and shows the
ruins of a good face, but is still decaying every
day ; and from having been the fifth best town in
Scotland, as the townsmen say, it is now the fifth
worst; which is owing to the decay of its trade. So
true it is that commerce is the life of cities, of na-
tions, and even of kingdoms. What was the reason
of the decay of trade in this place is not easy to de-
termine, the people themselves being either unwilling
or unable to tell." [' Tour through Great Britain,'
edn. 1745, p. 114.] The merchants used to import a
great quantity of wine from France, and export corn,
salmon, and other produce of the country. The rising-
trade of Glasgow proved very injurious to the trade
of this town; but of late it has somewhat revived.
The opening of the railway from Ayr to Irvine, and
thence to Kilwinning, has already added considerably
to the trade of the town ; and now that the entire line
to Glasgow is opened, a large increase of traffic must
necessarily follow from the increased intercourse
with the towns of Dairy, Kilbirnie, Beith, Steven-
ston, Saltcoats, and Ardrossan. During the first
twelve months after the opening of the line to Irvine,
the number of passengers who travelled between the
two towns was 137,1 17- A branch line to Kilmarnock
and an ultimate connexion with Carlisle by Dumfries,
is contemplated. With Glasgow, Ayr has repeated
intercourse daily by steam-boats plying in the frith.
The sea-shore is flat and shallow, and the entrance
of the river Ayr, which forms the harbour, is subject
to the inconvenience of a bar of sand, which is often
thrown quite across the river, especially by a strong
north-west wind. The water, even at spring-tides,
never rises above 14 feet. The piers extend about
1,100 feet each; and there are two light-houses in
taking the harbour. The position of Ayr north pier
light, as determined by Mr. Galbraith in 1827, is N.
lat. 55° 28' 53" ; W. long. 4° 36' 21".* There are
» In Norie's Navigation, [edition of 1935,] thin point of the
Ayrshire coast is stated to he in N. lat. 55° 28' 30"; and \V.
long. 4° 37' 0". In Maekay's Navigation, [edition of 1801,] N.
lat. 55»25'u"; W. long. 4„20'0". And in the tables of the Hy-
Olographic office, Admiralty, N. lat. 55" 27' ; W. long. ■!» 33'.
three lights, bearing S. E. by E. | E. 850 feet. Two
of the lights are bright, and one red. The red anil
one bright light are in the same building, and show
all night. In 1792 an act was passed for deepening
and maintaining this harbour, and enlarging and im-
proving the quays. Another act was passed in 1817,
with the same objects. The annual receipts of the
harbour vary from ,£1,200 to £800. The harbour-
master has a salary of .£107 10s. The principal trade
now carried on at this port is the exportation of
coal to Ireland, to the amount of about 50,400
tons annually. The other exports are pig-iron from
Muirkirk and Glenbuck, coal-tar, brown paint,
lamp black, coal-oil, and Water-of-Ayr stone. About
60 vessels, amounting to 5 or 6,000 tons, and em-
ploying 500 seamen, belonged to this port in 1812.
The shipping of Ayr has, however, fallen oif since
that period, and at present consists of 20 vessels.
The imports are hides and tallow from South
America ; beef, butter, barley, yarn, and linen from
Ireland ; spars and deals from our American colo-
nies ; hemp and iron from the Baltic ; and general
cargoes from Glasgow, Greenock, Liverpool, the
Isle of Man, &c. Shipbuilding is carried on to a con-
siderable extent; and there is a woollen mill em-
ploying, in 1838, 55 hands. Between 200 and 300
families are employed in flowering muslin. Besides the
salmon-fisheries in the Ayr and the Doon, the sand-
banks off the coast abound with all kinds of white
fish, and afford employment to 8 or 9 boats of four
men each. There is an extensive manufacture of
leather here, and another of shoes. There are branch-
es of the Bank of Scotland, Royal Bank, Glasgow
Union Bank, and Sir William Forbes' Bank here.
The bank of Hunters and Co., has been long-esta-
blished, and has six branches throughout the county.
The Ayrshire banking company, formed in 1831, has
also six branches. Ayr possesses a good academy, of
which notice has been taken in the preceding article.
It was incorporated by royal charter in 1797. All
the branches of education necessary for a commercial
life are here taught by able masters; besides the
Latin, Greek, and modern languages, experimental
philosophy, chemistry, astronomy, &c. A library
and museum have recently been formed in connection
with this institution. The building is plain but chaste,
and occupies a fine airy situation near the citadel. A
Mechanics' institution was formed in 1825. Two
newspapers are published in the town. Ayr is reck-
oned a gay and fashionable place. It has a theatre,
and well-attended races, and is sometimes the seat of
the Caledonian hunt. The race-course consists of
an enclosure of about 90 acres, about a mile to the
south of the town. The races are generally held on
the first week of September. It has markets on
Tuesday and Friday ; and four annual fairs ; viz.
on 1st Tuesday of January, O. S., last Tuesday of
June, O. S., 29th of September, and 3d Tuesday
of October. It was governed until the late muni-
cipal act by a provost, 2 bailies, a dean-of-guild, a
treasurer, and 12 councillors. The jurisdiction of
the magistrates extended over the conjoined parishes
of Ayr and Alloway. The water of Ayr forms the
eastern boundary of the royalty, and separates it
from the populous communities of Newton-upon- Ayr,
Wallacetown, and Content, which are, however,
united with Ayr under the Reform act. The juris-
diction of the magistrates of Ayr is at present entirely
confined to their own side of the river, Newton-on-
Ayr having its own magistracy. The revenue of the
burgh, from 1832 to 1833, was £2,057 6s. lid. Or-
dinary expenditure £1,870 12s. 7d. Nett amount of
debt, in October 1833, £18,823 9s. lid., all of which
had been contracted since 1792. The only taxation
is fur cess and poor's money. The amount of the
AYRSHIRE.
89
duties levied, in 1833, was £991 6s. 3d. About
£600 is mortified to the poor of the parish. The
magistrates, in conjunction with the Kirk-session,
are patrons of the 2d charge. There are nine in-
corporated trades in Ayr, who all possess funds vary-
ing respectively from £50 to .£1,500. Ayr unites
with Irvine, Oban, Inverary, and Campbeltown, in
sending a member to parliament. The population
exceeds 6,500, and has increased upwards of a third
during this century. See articles Alloway, New-
ton-upon-Ayr, and St. Quivox.
AYR (Newton-on). See Newton-oh-Ayr.
AYRSHIRE, a large and important county on
the south-west coast of Scotland, which derives its
name from the town just described. It is bounded
by Renfrewshire on the north and north-east; by the
counties of Lanark and Dumfries on the east; by the
stewartry of Kirkcudbright on the south-east; by
Wigtonshire on the south ; and by Loch Ryan, the
North channel, and the frith of Clyde on the west.
The length of Ayrshire, from Galloway burn upon
the north side of Loch Ryan, to Kelly burn which
divides it from Renfrewshire, is, by the public road,
90, and in a direct line 60 miles, the difference
being occasioned by the curvature of the coast ; its
breadth from east to west is in some places 30 miles.
Its average length does not, however, extend to above
B0 miles, while in average breadth it may be about
20. It contains, according to Mr. Aiton, whose
admeasurements we are now following, 1,600 square
miles ; but, according to Sir John Sinclair's calcula-
tions founded on Arrowsmith's map, only 1,045 square
miles; we are inclined to think Mr. Aiton's admea-
surement over-estimated, while Sir John's is probably
greatly under-estimated. " Ayrshire is in nearly the
form of a half-moon, concave towards the sea, and
convex on the land side. A considerable part of
Carrick, and some parts of Kyle and Cunningham
towards the inland verges, are hilly ; and that part
of Ayrshire which borders with the counties of Dum-
fries and Galloway justly merits the name of moun-
tainous. A chain or group of mountains commences
at Saint Abb's head on the verges of the shires of
Berwick and East Lothian ; runs westward the
whole breadth of the island, on the boundaries of
the Lothians and the county of Roxburgh, and be-
tween those of Lanark and Ayr on the north, and
Dumfries and Galloway on the south ; and termi-
nates at the rock of Ailsa. Richard, who wrote in
the 12th century, and is the earliest Scots writer
certainly known, denominates this range of moun-
tains the Uxelluvi JMontes. Some of the highest of
the mountains in this chain are situated in the neigh-
bouring counties; but a considerable range of the
south and eastern parts of Carrick is mountainous,
and forms a part of that group of mountains, abound-
ing with lochs, and very barren. A large range of
Ayrshire, from the foot of the water of Doon, to the
north of Ardrossan harbour, is a plain open country,
neither level nor hilly, but rising from the shore in a
gradual easy acclivity, till it terminates in mountains
on the south-east, and moorish hills on the eastern
boundaries. No part of it can be termed level; for
the surface abounds with numerous swells or round-
ish hills which facilitate the escape of moisture,
promote ventilation, and diversify and ornament
the face of the country. The prospects from some
of these eminences are uncommonly rich and varie-
gated. On ascending any of the little heights, in
almost any part of the county, you have a delightful
view of the frith of Clyde, the beautiful hills of
Arrar and Ailsa, rising out of the sea, a large tract
of Ayrshire, the Highland hills, and the coast of
Ireland." [Aiton's 'General View of the Agricul-
ture of the County of Ayr.' Glasgow, 1811. 8vo.
pp. 2, 3.] The principal elevations are on the south-
ern border of Carrick, in the parish of Coliionell :
which see.* On the western skirts of the parish ol
Muirkirk there are some lofty hills, the most con-
spicuous of which is Cairntable, which rises to an
altitude of 1,650 feet above sea-level.
The climate is similar to that of other districts
situated on the western coast of Britain. For more
than two-thirds of the year the wind blows from
the south- west, and the rains are often copious, and
sometimes of long duration The principal rivers of
Ayrshire are : the Garnock, a small stream, which
rises on the borders of Renfrewshire, 10 miles above
Kilwinning, flows southward, receives the Lugton,
and falls into the harbour of Irvine ; the Irvine,
which has its source near Loudon hill, on the con-
fines of Lanarkshire, and thence proceeds westward
by Derval, Newmills, Galston, Riccarton, &c, until
augmented by many rivulets it flows into the sea
at Irvine ; the Ayr, already described, which holds
a western course nearly parallel to the Irvine ; and
the Doon, from Loch Doon, on the north border of
Kirkcudbrightshire, which flows north-north-west to
the sea near the mouth of the Ayr. The Girvan
and the Stinchar or Ardstinchar two inconsiderable
streams, issue from small lakes near the border of
Kirkcudbrightshire, and flow south-west to the North
channel into which they fall, the former at Girvan,
and the latter at Ballantrae. All these rivers receive
further notice in separate articles. Their course is
short, and, as they all rise on or near the inland
boundaries, indicates the general basin-like outline
of the county The principal loch is Loch Doon :
which see. There are several small lochs in differ-
ent quarters of the county.
Clay or argillaceous earth is the most common
soil in this county, and in different quarters it has
been found from 40 to 200 feet in depth. This
species of soil is naturally so tenacious that it can
only be ploughed when in a state of moisture. By
summer-fallowing, and the application of lime and
other manure, it is, however, convertible into fine
rich loam, and there are thousands of acres in the
county of Ayr, which, by this mode of treatment,
have been changed from sterile clay to the richest
mould. Loam of alluvial formation is found in
holms, on the sides of rivers, and in other low situa-
tions in different parts of the county, but this bears
a small proportion to what has been converted into
loam by human industry. There is a greater pro-
portion of moss and moor ground than any other.
The origin of the extensive mosses in Ayrshire may
be traced to the overthrow of the forests which, we
are informed from the earliest and most authentic-
history, at one time covered great tracts of land in
Scotland. Forest-trees are frequently found lying
many feet under ground, in the position in which
they had been cut down by the earlier inhabitants.
These trees, laid prostrate on the earth, extirpated
all former vegetation, and moss earth has been formed
from the aquatic plants introduced by the stagnation
of water occasioned by such circumstances. Lochs
of water of moderate depth have also grown into
flow-mosses, by plants striking root in the bottom,
when composed of earth or mud. The most com-
mon of those plants are marsh-fog, gouk-bear, drab-
coloured fog, cotton-beads, and turfy club-rush. The
following is the extent of the different kinds of soil
in the countv, according to Mr. Aiton :
* Nothing can be more perplexing than the discrepancies
which prevail amongst topographers as to the altitude ol
mountains. Thus we have Plavfair assigning three different
admeasurements to Knoekdoliun, vjz. 2,091, 1,950, and 650 leec ;
while Chambers states the altitude ol that hill at 2,000 leetj
and Webster at 1,950 feet
90
AYRSHIRE.
Cl*y soil,
In the district of Carrick,
In Kyle,
lu Cunningham,
Sand or light soil,
In Carrick,
In Kyle,
In Cunningham,
Moss and moor ground,
In Carrick,
In Kyle,
In Cunningham, .
10,000
' 175,600
135,01)0
90,000
41,000
16,000
200,000
9S,000
54,000
320,000
147,01)0
347,000
914,600
Chalmers assigns to these different classes of soil the
following proportions : clay soil 261,960 acres ; sandy
soil 120,110; moor lands 283,530. There are no
extensive natural woods in Ayrshire, but a consider-
able quantity of copse-wood occurs on the banks of
the rivers, and a large extent of ground in the lower
parts of the county is now under rising plantations.
The mineralogy of Ayrshire is highly interesting,
and capable of affording a wide field of study both to
the geologist and agriculturist. The higher parts of
Carrick abound in unmixed granite of a greyish
colour : braccia, whinstone, greenstone, and red sand-
stone, are also found in the same district. Immense
beds of coal have been discovered in different parts
of the county. The coal-district of Scotland, which
intersects the island from the Atlantic to the German
ocean, runs through the centre of Ayrshire, from the
shore to its inland verges. It commences on the
south, in the strath of Girvan in Carrick, about 2
miles from the sea, runs up by Dalmellington and New
Cumnock on the south side of Kyle, by Sanquhar
in Nithsdale, and Douglas and Carnwith in Lanark-
shire, and, being cut off by the heights of Lammer-
moor, terminates near North Berwick : it runs nearly
in a line from the rock of Ailsa to that of the Bass.
Cannel coal, of excellent quality, is found at Bedlar
hill near Kilbirnie, and at Adamel hill, by Tarbolton.
Blind coal — a species principally composed of carbon,
and in which there is only a very small portion of
bituminous matter — is obtained in great quantities,
and many thousand tons of it are yearly exported to
Ireland. It is chiefly used for drying grain or malt.
Copper and lead have both been wrought, — the
latter to some extent at Daleagles in New Cumnock.
Gold is said to have been discovered in Ayrshire,
and dug by an Englishman, named Dodge, about the
year 1700. A few specimens have been found in
the hills of Carrick, of agates, porphyries, and cal-
careous petrifactions. Millstones are quarried near
Kilbride ; and a species of fire-stone near Auchinleck.
Iron-stone is found in different parts of Carrick, and
in the higher parts of Kyle. In the parish of Stair,
antimony and molybdena have been found ; and, in
several parts of the county, that species of whetstone
known by the name of Water-of- Ayr stone. Chaly-
beate springs — some of them strongly impregnated
with sulphur — are found in almost every parish, but
none of them present any thing peculiarly interesting.
There are two springs in the parish of Maybole of
uncommon magnitude.
In favourable seasons, ploughing commences in
this county about the beginning of February. The
rotation of crops differs widely in the different dis-
tricts of Ayrshire. Wheat was seldom to be seen in
this county beyond the limits of a nobleman's farm
previous to the year 1735 s but it is now become
common, and seldom fails to yield a valuable return.
Rye is not often sown, except on the sandy ground
near the shores, where small quantities have been
; raised. Oats have always been the principal grain
crops of Ayrshire. Peas and beans are also extensively
j sown. Turnips were first introduced by the earls of
i Eglinton and Loudon, about the middle of the last
century, and they have subsequently been reared on
almost every description of land; but, as in all other
places, they grow to the best advantage on light dry
soil. Swedish turnip is extensively cultivated.
Potatoes are reared in great abundance, and to
as good account as in any other county in Scotland.
Clover is abundant. Ryegrass, though a native
plant, remained unnoticed" till about the year 1760,
and it did not come into general use till about 1775.
Only a small proportion of the surface of the county
is occupied as meadow-land. The natural pasture —
of which there is a considerable extent in the county
— is devoted to the feeding and rearing of sheep.
Much of the arable land also undergoes an alternation
of crop and pasture ; the greater part of the pasture
is occupied with dairy stock, or other cattle fed in the
district. The gardens and orchards of this county
have long been objects of general admiration, from
their extent, and the great taste with which they are
laid out. At Eglinton there is one of the best-dis-
played policies in Ayrshire. Extensive woods, both
copse and plantation, are thickly interspersed through
many parts of the shire It would be a matter or
some difficulty to ascertain at what period attention
was first given, in this district, to the rearing of
cattle. At all events it must have been remote, as
the following adage, which was familiar to every
grey-beard of the 17th century, shows :
" Kyle for a man,
Carrick for a cow,
Cunningham for butter and cheese,
And Gallon-ay for woo!"
The Galloway cattle are well-made and hardy ; but
the native dairy cows are now preferred as milkers,
and are much more profitable to the farmer. About
the year 1750, several cows and a bull — either of the
Teeswater, or some other English breed — were sent
to the Earl of Marchmont's estates in Kyle, all of
the high brown and white colour now so common in
this county. It is probably from these or other
similar mixtures that the red and white colours of
the common stock were first introduced. In 1780,
or a year or two previous, the opulent farmers in the
parishes of Dunlop and Stewarton, made up their
stocks of this breed; their example was followed
by others, and the breed was gradually spread over
Cunningham, Kyle, and Carrick. The size of the
Ayrshire improved dairy cows varies from 20 to 40
stones English, according to the quality or abundance
of their food. The most valuable quality which a dairy
cow can possess is to yield an abundance of milk.
Ten Scots pints per day is not thought uncommon
for the Ayrshire breed ; some give twelve or thir-
teen ; and fourteen pints have been taken from a
good cow in one day. The greater portion of the
milk is manufactured into cheese, of which there are
two kinds, — the common and the Dunlop cheese.
The Rev. Mr. Brisbane, in the first Statistical ac-
count of Dunlop parish, says, that a woman of the
name of Gilmour, who had fled to Ireland during the
persecution, discovered, while in that kingdom, the
method of manufacturing this celebrated kind ot
cheese ; and that it was introduced by her into her
native parish on her return in 1688. It is said, how-
ever, to have been known before that period; for
long before the Revolution, the making of cheese of
a superior quality was the chief excellence and parti-
cular boast of the Cunningham farmers. Sheep,
chiefly of the black-faced kind, are bred in Ayrshire
in considerable numbers Labourers' wages average
in this county from 9s. to lis. per week.
AYRSHIRE.
91
Ayrshire is divided into tnree districts, or baili-
ages, which, though constantly occurring in history,
and in the language of the country at this day, have
no longer a separate legal existence : viz. Cunning-
ham, Kyle, and Carrick.
Cunningham, in general a level and agreeable dis-
trict of a triangular form and declining gradually
towards the sea, is divided from Kyle by the Irvine,
intersected by the Garnock, and watered by several
streams of little note. Towards the confines of Ren-
frewshire, it rises into an assemblage of hills with
intervening valleys. Along the sea-coast, and in the
southern part of the district, there are tracts of toler-
ably flat and fertile soil. Its western angle, however,
is mountainous, and the coast is rocky. This dis-
trict comprehends "260 square miles, [Playfair,] and
abounds in manufacturing towns and villages.
Kyle, the middle district, consisting of about 380
square miles, [Playfair,] lies between the river Doon
and the Irvine, and is traversed from east to west by
the Ayr, which divides it into King's Kyle on the
south, and Kyle Stewart on the north. Toward the
confines of Lanark and Dumfries-shire, it is elevated,
rugged, and covered with heath; but the midland
and maritime tracts are agreeably diversified, well-
cultivated, and planted with villages and seats. " Kyle,
or Coil, having once been a forest, may have taken
its name from that circumstance, the Celtic colli
signifying ' wood ;' but the natives, misled probably
by the old chroniclers, derive it from Coilus, a Bri-
tish king, who is reported to have fallen in battle
somewhere on the river Coil, and to have been buried
either at Coylton or at Coilsfield. If such a perscn-
age ever existed, this does not appear to have been
the scene either of his actions or of his misfortunes.
The hill-country, towards the east, is bleak, marshy,
uncultivated, and uninteresting; and on that side,
except at one or two places, the district was formerly
impervious. In advancing from these heights to the
sea, the symptoms of fertility and the beneficial ef-
fects of cultivation, rapidly multiply; but there is no
'sweet interchange of hill and valley,' no sprightli-
ness of transition, no bold and airy touches either
to surprise or delight. There is little variety, or
even distinctness of outline, except where the ver-
miculations of the river are marked by deep fringes
of wood waving over the shelvy banks, or where the
long and almost rectilineal summit of the Brown Car.
rick terminates abruptly in a rugged foreland; or
where the multitudinous islands and hills beyond the
sea exalt their colossal heads above the waves, and
lend an exterior beauty to that heavy continuity of
flatness, which, from the higher grounds of Kyle,
appears to pervade nearly the whole of its surface.
The slope, both here and in Cunningham, is pitted
with numberless shallow depressions, which are sur-
mounted by slender prominences, rarely swelling be-
yond the magnitude of hillocks or knolls. Over this
dull expanse the hand of art has spread some exqui-
site embellishments, which in a great measure atone
tor the native insipidity of the scene, but which might
be still farther heightened by covering many of tliese
6paces with additional woods, free from the dismal in-
termixture of Scotch fir, — a tree which predominates
infinitely too much all over the country, deforming
what is beautiful, and shedding a deeper gloom on
what is already more than sufficiently cheerless." —
['Edinburgh Encyclopaedia,' Article Ayrshire.]
Carrick, the southern and most romantic district,
including that portion of Ayrshire which lies to the
south of the river Doon, and consisting of 399 square
miles, [Playfair,] is in general mountainous, with
some delightful valleys interspersed, and fertile decli-
vities inclining towards the sea-coast. The two
valleys watered by the Stinchar and the Girvan ex-
hibit a wild and varied scenery which attracts the
notice and excites the admiration of every traveller.
The manufactures of Ayrshire are important. The
census of 1831 returned S,000 males upwards of
twenty years of age as being engaged throughout.
Ayrshire in different branches of manufacture. The
woollen manufacture has long existed in this district,
especially at Kilmarnock, Ayr, Stewarton, and Dairy.
In 1838 there were 18 woollen-mills within the
county, employing 242 hands. — Linen has been more
extensively manufactured in former years in Ayrshire
than it is now. The chief localities of this manu-
facture are Kilbirnie and Beith. The number of
flax-mills, in 183S, was 3, employing 172 hands
The cotton manufacture has long been increasing,
and is now prosecuted on a large scale. Its chief
localities are Catrine, Kilbirnie, and Patna. The
number of cotton-mills, in 1838, was 4 ; employing
703 hands. A considerable number of women are
employed in embroidery. They make from 3s. 6d.
to 6s. per week. There are extensive iron-works
at Muirkirk and Glenbuck. The manuiacture of
wooden snuff-boxes affords occupation to about 120
hands. Trade has been greatly facilitated by the
execution of good roads, and by the formation of
several railroads, — one of which extends from Troon,
point to Kilmarnock [see Troon] ; another from
Kilmarnock to Dairy ; and another will unite Ayr,
Irvine, and Dairy. The two latter are branches-
of the Glasgow and Ayr railway now executing.
The completion of the line of railway betwixt
Glasgow, Paisley, Kilmarnock, and Ayr, will doubt-
less develope the resources of this shire, and open up
many sources of additional traffic. Several extensive
coal-fields have been already opened in the immediate
neighbourhood of the line in this county. A company
has been formed to build a steam- vessel to ply be-
tween Troon and Liverpool, as soon as the railway
is opened ; it being expected that many passengers
from and to Glasgow will prefer to go on board or
land at Troon or Ardrossan, and thus save the long
and circuitous route by the river. Proposals have
also been made to sail a steam-vessel between Ar-
drossan and Belfast ; and some influential proprietors
in the Western isles propose to start a steam-vessel
for the purpose of conveying passengers, cattle, and
produce from Skye, Mull, and the opposite mainland,
to Troon or Ardrossan, whence the cattle can be
conveyed by railway to the markets in Glasgow,
and Paisley, and eventually to Edinburgh. The
prospect of an English junction railway being formed
from Kilmarnock to Carlisle is warmly entertained
by the Ayrshire proprietors. See article, Glasgow,
Paisley, Kilmarnock & Ayr Railway — There
are several canals of short length in different places
of the county. A canal of 31 miles from Glasgow
to Ardrossan has been long projected, though only
about one-third of the length, — viz. from Glasgow
to Johnstone — has yet been executed Previous to
the late equalization of weights and measures, the
Ayrshire potatoe boll was very arbitrary. The
bushel contained 2 pecks; the pound of butter, hay,
and meat, 24 oz. avoird. ; and the stimpart, A peck.
Ayrshire returns one member to parliament. The
parliamentary constituency, in 1839-40, was 4,274.
The two boroughs of Ayr and Irvine are associated
as contributory burghs with three or the Argyleshire
burghs ; while Kilmarnock is a contributory burgh
of the Renfrew district. The principal towns — to
which as separate articles the reader is now generally
referred for further information on various points re-
specting the ''rade, manufactures, history, and anti-
quities of this county — are Ardrossan, Ayr, Beith,
Girvan, Irvine, Kilwinning, Largs, Maybole,
Xewton-on-Ayr, Saltcoats, and Stewarton
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To Ayrshire belong the island of Little C umbrae,
and Ailsa Craig : which see.
The number of parishes in Ayrshire is 46 ; of
jvhich 16 are in the presbytery of Irvine ; 28 in that
of Ayr; and 2 in that of Stranraer. Ayrshire was
formerly comprehended in the bishopric of Glasgow.
— The number of parochial schools in 1834 was 46,
under 62 teachers ; of schools not parochial 225, un-
der 241 teachers. The total number of scholars
14,800 The population of the county, in 1801, was
84,306; in 1831, 145,100, in 30,501 families, of
whom 6,967 families were chiefly employed in agri-
culture, and 15,193 in trades, handicrafts, and manu-
factures. The population was thus distributed :
Cunningham, .... 63,453
Kyle 66,0116
Carrick 25,535
The number of inhabited houses, in 1831, was
19,001 ; of uninhabited, 439. The valued rental,
in 1674, was £191,605. Assessed property, in 1815,
£409,983. Sir John Sinclair estimated the real rent,
in 1796. at £112,752. In 1808 it was as follows :
Cunoinghara, ±127,632 4
Kvle 113,462 3
Carrick 03,724 0
Koyalty of Ayi H.855 0
±314,673 7
Throughout every part of Ayrshire are scattered
the relics of former ages. Cairns, encampments, and
druidical circles are numerous : see articles Dun-
donald, Galston, and Sorn. Of ancient castles the
most celebrated are Loch Doon, Turneerry, For-
tencross, Dundonald, and Sorn : see these ar.
tides. The principal ecclesiastical ruins are those
of the abbeys of Crossraguel and Kilwinning :
which also s'ee. The most ancient families of Ayr-
shire are the Auchinlechs, Boswells, Boyds, Cath-
;'arts, Crawfords, Cunninghams, Dalrymples, Dun-
lops, Fullartons, Kennedys, Lindsays, Montgomery's,
and Wallaces. Of the titles of nobility connected
with this county, the earldom of Carrick, now merged
in the Crown, is the oldest. The earldom of Glen-
cairn was created in 1488 ; that of Eglinton in 1503 ;
that of Cassillis in 1509; those of Loudon and Dum-
fries in 1633; and of Dundonald in 1669.
Ayrshire was inhabited in Roman times by the
Damnii and the Novantes. After the abdication of
the Romans, this district became a part of the Cum-
brian kingdom. During the Saxon heptarchy Kyle
became subject to the kings of Northumbria. The
Saxons maintained themselves in this district for
many centuries, and have left numerous traces of
their presence here. In 1221 the sheriffdom of
Ayr was elected. In the wars of Wallace and
Bruce, Ayrshire was the scene of numerous conflicts
with the English. During the religious persecu-
tions under the last of the Stuarts the men of Ayr-
shire distinguished themselves by their struggles for
the maintenance of the rights of conscience ; and
were punished for their contumacy by having ' the
Highland host' quartered upon them in 1678. " We
might from these circumstances," says Chalmers,
'• suppose that the people of Ayrshire would concur
zealously in the Revolution of 1688. As one of the
western shires, Ayrshire sent its full proportion of
armed men to Edinburgh to protect the convention
of Estates. On the 6th of April, 1689, the forces
that had come from the western counties, having
received thanks from the convention for their sea-
sonable service they immediately departed with their
arms to their respective homes. They were offered
some gratification ; but they would receive none ;
saying that they came to save and serve their coun-
try, but not to enrich themselves at the nation's
expense. It was at the same time ordered, ' that
the inhabitants of the town of Ayr should be kept
together till further orders.' On the 14th of May,
arms were ordered to be given to Lord Bargeny, an
Ayrshire baronet. On the 25th of May, in answer
to a letter from the Earl of Eglinton, the convention
ordered, ' that the heritors and fencible men in the
shire of Ayr be instantly raised and commanded in
conformity to the appointment of the Estates.' But
of such proofs of the revolutionary principles of Ayr-
shire enough ! The men of Ayr not only approved
of the Revolution ; but they drew their swords in
support of its establishment and principles. On that
memorable occasion the governors were not only
changed ; but new principles were adopted and bet-
ter practices were introduced : and the Ayrshire
people were gratified, by the abolition of episcopacy,
and by the substitution of presbyterianism in its
room, which brought with it its old maxims of in-
tolerance and its invariable habit of persecution." —
[Caledonia, vol. iii. pp. 473, 474.] The singular
assertion with which this extract closes requires no
refutation from us. It is but a proof of the amazing
obliquity of perception with which otherwise shrewd
minds are sometimes afflicted, even on points where
facts as well as all history and respectable testimony
are against them.
AYTON, a parish on the coast of Berwickshire,
which seems to take its name, anciently written
Ei/tun, and Eitun, from the water of Eye. It is
bounded by Coldingham and Eyemouth parishes on
the north ; by the German ocean on the east ; by
Mordington and Foulden on the south ; and by Chini-
side and Coldingham on the west. This parish is
about 4i miles long, measured from north-east to
south-west, or from north-west to south-east ; and
3i broad, measured from east to west. There are
about 2| miles of sea-coast, which presents a high
and rocky shore, celebrated in the annals of smug-
gling. The hills in this parish lie chiefly in the
south-western extremity. The whole of the par-
ish, with the exception of about 800 acres which
are in plantations, is under cultivation. The water
of Eye which intersects the parish contains good
trout, but not in any quantity. The Ale skirts
the northern boundary. This stream unites with
the Eye at the Kip rock, and the conjunct stream
then flows north-east to Eyemouth. Cod, ling, had-
docks, whitings, flounders, hollyback, turbot, mack-
erel, and other kinds of fish are caught on the coast
in their seasons ; and Ipbsters and crabs are plenti-
fully obtained on the rocky shore. Population, in
1801, 1453; in 1831, 1680, of whom 663 resided in
the kirk-town of Ayton. Assessed property in 1815
£13,169. In 1741 the village of Ayton seems to
have contained about 320 souls, and the country-part
of the parish about the same number. This vil-
lage is situated on the banks of the Eye, near
the centre of the parish, and on the post-road from
Berwick to Dunbar. It is 9 miles distant from Ber-
wick, and 48 from Edinburgh. A considerable part
of it is built upon a pleasant sloping bank fronting
the south. A paper-mill was erected here about the
end of last century, and is still in employment.
Markets for the sale of fat stock are held at Ayton
on the first Thursday of every month. The largest
occurs during the spring ; and the buyers are chiefly
from the neighbourhood of Morpeth. The fishing-
village and harbour of Burnmouth is finely situated
in a deep cove on the coast. The line of the pro-
jected.Newcastle and Edinburgh railway, as surveyed
by Mr. George Stephenson, after crossing the Tweed
a little above Berwick bridge, runs parallel to the
coast nearly as far as Burnmouth, where it bends to
the west, and pursues the valley of the Eye to
Grant's House near its source, which is the summit
AYT
93
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of the whole line, and is about 370 feet above sea-
level. From this point the line falls towards Dun-
bar The following notices from the Statistical
report of 1790 are curious in comparison with the
present prices and rates. " The price of butcher-
meat is from 3id. to 4d. per lb. English weight ;
it has advanced about Id. per lb. within these 6
or 8 years. The price of pork is variable. Had-
docks, which sold formerly at 4d. or 6d. per score,
now often bring as much a piece. A goose is
sold here for 2s. ; a
pair
of ducks for Is. 3d. : a
pair of hens for Is. 6d. ; a turkey for 2s. 6d. ; but-
ter sells for 7d. and cheese for 4d. per lb. The
wages of a labourer are Is. a day; a carpenter's and
mason's, Is. 4d. ; a tailor's Is. Threshing of corn is
usually paid by what is termed lot, i. e. 1 boll is
allowed for every 25 bolls that are threshed. The
wages of a mason and his labourer, &c. are generally
settled at so much a rood. A hind receives 2 bolls
of barley, 1 boll of pease, and 10 bolls of oats ; he
has also a cow's grass, a house and yard, and as
much ground as will serve to plant a firlot of pota-
toes. He is likewise allowed what coals he may
have occasion for in his family, paying only the prime
cost, which is about 2s. 8d. per cart-load, including
the tolls ; the carriage is equal to 4s. per load. The
hind's wife reaps in harvest for the house. He has
also .£1 allowed for sheep's grass. A man-servant
receives from £5 to £7, with bed and board ; a maid-
servant from £2 to £4 per annum." The Statistical
reporter, in 1834, states the wages of labourers in
this parish to be Is. 6d. per day; that of artisans
from 2s. to 2s. 6d This parish is in the presbytery
of Chirnside, and synod of Merse and Teviotdale.
It was anciently united to Coldingham ; at the Re-
formation it formed a parish in conjunction with
Lamberton; but in 1650, Lamberton was disjoined
from it. The present church is built upon the site,
and includes part of the walls of the old parish-
church; sittings 456. Stipend £235 0s. 6d., with a
manse, and a glebe of the value of .£24 3s., and cer-
tain teinds of fish. Unappropriated teinds, £364
18s. 2d. Patron, the Crown. — There are two United
Secession congregations. Of these, the first was
formed in 1779. Church-sittings 295. Stipend £80.
The second was formed in 1781. Church-sittings
561. Stipend £100, with a manse and garden and
some other allowances. — The parish schoolmaster
has a salary of £34 4s. 4d., with about £80 school-
fees and £40 other emoluments. There were six
private schools within the parish in 1834. — On the
hills on the south side of the parish are the remains
of two camps supposed to be Koman or Saxon.
Urns, and broken pieces of armour, have been found
here. In the low grounds towards the north-west
are the vestiges of three encampments thought to
have been Danish or Pictish. History mentions the
castle of Ayton, founded by the Norman baron De
Vesci, which was taken by the Earl of Surrey in
1498, but no vestiges of it now remain. The mo-
dern house of Ayton which was built upon its site
was unfortunately consumed by fire in 1834. In
1673, there appears to have been 24 heritors, in-
cluding portioners and feuars, in this parish ; in 1790,
there were about 14. At the former period, they
were more distinguished by family and rank. There
were six of the name of Home, each of some dis-
tinction.
SUILBHE1N IN ASSYNT.
BAD
<J4
BAL
B
BADCALL (Loch), or Badcaui., a small bay
on the western coast of Sutherlandshire, in the par-
ish of Eddrachillis, between Loch Broom on the
south, and Scourie bay on the north. At its mouth
is an archipelago of small islands. See Eddra-
chillis.
BADENOCH, a district in the south-east of In-
verness-shire, about 35 miles in length, and 28 in
breadth. It is bounded on the north by the Mona-
dhleadh mountains, which form the southern side of
the vale of the Findhorn ; on the east by the Braes of
Abernethy; on the south by Athole and Lochaber;
and on the west by the Great Glen of Scotland, or
rather by the Coryaraik mountains which lie farther
to the east. It is a wild and mountainous district,
thinly inhabited, and poorly cultivated, covered in
many places with natural woods, and in others present-
ing wide stretches of bleak lonely moorland. The
river Spey intersects the district, rising in Loch
Spey, a small mountain tarn at the western extremity
of Badenoch, at an elevation of 1,200 feet above the
sea, and flowing slowly through a'gradually widening
valley, first eastwards, and then north-east. See
article Spey. The most interesting scenery and
localities of Badenoch will be found described in the
articles Ajlvie, Kingussie, and Laggan. — This dis-
trict was in ancient times the land of the powerful
family of the Cumyns or Cummins, who came from
Northumberland in the reign of David I. In 1230,
Walter, second son of William Cumyn, Earl of
Buchan, acquired the lordship of Badenoch, by grant
of Alexander II. ['Caledonia.' ii. 563.] In 1291,
John Cumyn, Lord of Badenoch, acknowledged
Edward I. as superior lord of Scotland. His son,
popularly called Red John Cumyn, was slain at
Dumfries by the dagger of Bruce, on the 10th of
February, 1306. Bruce annexed the lordship of
Badenoch to the earldom of Murray ; and the Clan
Chattan appears from about this period to have
settled in Badenoch. [Gregory, p. 77.] Robert II.
granted Badenoch to his son Alexander, Earl of
Buchan, " a species of Celtic Attila, whose common
appellation of ' the Wolf of Badenoch' is sufficiently-
characteristic of the dreadful attributes which com-
posed his character." [Tytler, vol. iii. p. 71.] " On
some provocation given him by the Bishop of Moray,
this chief descended from his mountains, and, after
laying waste the country, with a sacrilege which ex-
cited unwonted horror, sacked and plundered the
cathedral of Elgin, carrying off its rich chalices and
vestments, polluting its holy shrines with blood, and,
finally, setting fire to the noble pile, which, with
the adjoining houses of the canons, and the neigh-
bouring town, were burnt to the ground. This
exploit of the father was only a signal for a more
serious incursion, conducted by his natural son, Dun-
can Stewart, whose manners were worthy of his
descent, and who, at the head of a wild assemblage
of katherans, armed only with the sword and target,
oroke with irresistible fury across the range of hills
which divides the county of Aberdeen and Forfar,
and began to destroy the country, and murder the
inhabitants, with reckless and indiscriminate cruelty.
Sir Walter Ogilvy, then sheriff of Angus, along
with Sir Patrick Gray, and Sir David Lindsay of
Glenesk, instantly collected their power, and, al-
though far inferior in numbers, trusting to the tem-
per of their armour, attacked the mountaineers at
Gasklune, near the Water of Ha. But they were
almost instantly overwhelmed, the katherans fight-
ing with a ferocity, and a contempt of life, which
seem to have struck a panic into their steel-clad
assailants. Ogilvy, with his brother, Wat of Lich-
toune, Young of Ouchterlony, the Lairds of Cairn-
cross, Forfar, andGuthry, were slain, and sixty men-
at-arms along with them ; while Sir Patrick Gray
and Sir David Lindsay were grievously wounded,
and with difficulty carried off the field. The indo-
mitable fierceness of the Highlanders is strikingly
shown by an anecdote preserved by Winton. Lind-
say had pierced one of these, a brawny and powerful
man, through the body with his spear, and thus
apparently pinioned him to the earth ; but although
mortally wounded, and in the agonies of death, he
writhed himself up by main strength, and with the
weapon in his body, struck Lindsay a desperate blow
with his sword, which cut him through the stirrui
and boot into the bone, after which he instantly
sunk down and expired." [Ibid. pp. 74, 75.] In
1452, the Crown bestowed Badenoch on the Earl of
Huntlv, who, at the head of the Clan Chattan,
maintained a fierce warfare with the western clans,
and his neighbours of Lochaber.
BADENYON, a small property in the parish of
Glenbucket, Aberdeenshire, on which are the relics
of an old house, celebrated in the Rev. John Skinner's
excellent song, 'John o' Badenvon.'
BAIKIE MOSS. See Airlie.
BAINSFORD. See Brainsford.
BALAGEICH. See Ballochgeich.
BALAGICH, a mountain in Renfrewshire, in the
parish of Eaglesham, east of Binnend loch; rising
nearly 1,000 feet above the level of the sea. It af-
fords considerable quantities of sulphate of barytes.
and is said to contain ores of silver and lead.
BALAHUL1SH. See Ballachulish.
BALBIRNIE, a village in the parish of Markinch,
Fifeshire; 7i miles north of Kirkcaldy, near the
Leven. The proprietor of Balhirnie estate has,
within these few years, made great alterations on his
property, and nearly removed this village.
BALCARRES, the family-house and estate of
a branch of the house of Lindsay, in the parish of
Kilconquhar, Fifeshire. Balcarres was erected into
a barony in 1592, in favour of John, second son ot
David, eighth Earl of Crawford. His son David
was created first Lord Balcarres in 1633; and his
grandson, Alexander, first Earl in 1051. It is now
the property of Colonel Lindsay.
BALCHRISTIE, a hamlet in the parish of New-
burn, Fifeshire; li mile south-west of Colinsburgh.
This is a very ancient place, but contains at present
only a few houses. David I. granted to the monks
of Dunfermline, " Balchristie cum suis rectis divisis,
excepta rectitudine quam Keledei habere debent."
A dispute ensued between the prior and canons ot
St. Andrews, and the monks of Dunfermline, about
their respective rights to Balchristie. King William
determined that the monks should have Balchristie,
subject to the rights which the Culdees had in it
during the reign of David I. It is now the property
of James Buchan, Esq.
BALDERNOCK, a small parish in the southern
extremity of Stirlingshire ; bounded on the north by
the parishes of Strathblane and Campsie ; on the east
by Campsie and Lanarkshire ; on the south by the
BAL
95
BAL
river Kelvin, which separates it from Lanarkshire;
and on the west by New Kilpatrick. On the south,
where it is bounded by the Kelvin, there are about 700
acres of rich flat land. The inundations of the river
having frequently blasted the hopes of the husband-
man by damaging or sweeping away his luxuriant
crops in this quarter, the proprietors, about 70 years
ago, united in raising a bank upon the brink of the
river; but there are seasons still, when it breaks
over or bursts through its barriers, to resume for a
little its former desolating sway. From south to
north there is a gradual ascent pleasantly diversified
by round swelling hills. On the north side there is
some moorish ground ; but the greater part of the
parish is arable. Towards the south-west lies Bar-
dowie locb, covering about 70 acres. In it are pike
and perch of a good size and quality. The valuation
of the parish is £1,744 Scots. The real rent, in
1794, was supposed to be about £3,000 sterling; and
arable land was then rented at from 10s. to £2 per
acre. Assessed property, in 1815, £5,843. Popu-
lation, in 1801, 796; in 1831, 805, of whom 50 were
employed in the coal-mines in this parish. House9
15U This parish is in the presbytery of Dumbarton,
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend £156 19s. Id., with a manse, and glebe of
the value of £19. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s.
41tl., with about £20 fees. Pupils 50. — In the be-
ginning of the reign of Alexander II. the lands of
Cartonbenach were conveyed to Maurice* Galbraith
by Malduin, Earl of Lennox. Soon after, in 1238,
we find the same barony granted, under the name oi'
Bathernock, to Arthur, son of Maurice Galbraith,
with power to seize and condemn malefactors, on
condition that the convicts should be hanged on the
earl's gallows. From the Galbraiths of Bathernock,
chiefs of the name, descended the Galbraiths of Cul-
cruich, Greenock, Killearn, and Balgair. In the
north-west corner of the parish, on an elevated piece
of ground, stands an old ruined tower, being all that
now remains of the mansion-house of the Galbraiths
of Bathernock. It appears to have been a large
building surrounded by a ditch Not far from this
to the eastward, are several of those large loose
heaps of stones called cairns, some of them oblong,
and others of a circular shape. One of the circular
cairns is about 80 yards in circumference. Tradition
says that in this place, called Craigmaddy moor, a
battle was fought with the Danes, in which one of
their princes was slain ; and the farm on which these
cairns are is named Blochairn, which may be a cor-
ruption of Balcairn, viz., ' the town of the cairns.' — .
But the most curious relic of antiquity in this parish,
is a structure called the Auld wife's lift, situated
about a mile to the north of the church, on high
ground, in a little plain of about 250 yards in diame-
ter, which is surrounded by an ascent of a few yards
in height, and in the form of an amphitheatre. It
consists of three stones of a greyish grit, two of
which, of a prismatic shape, are laid along close by
each other upon the earth ; and the third — which was
once probably a regular parallelopiped, and still, not-
withstanding the depredations of time, approaches
that figure — is laid above the other two. The up-
permost stone is 18 feet long, 11 broad, and 7 thick,
placed nearly horizontally with a small dip to the
north. Its two supporters are about the same size.
It can hardly be matter of doubt that this is one of
those rude structures erected by the Druids in their
sacred groves. Its situation, in a very sequestered
spot, on an eminence surrounded by a grove of oaks
■ — the stumps of which trees were still visible in
1795 — corresponds exactly with every description we
have of these places of worship. The tradition is
that three old women, having wagered which should
carry the greatest weight, brought hither in their
aprons the three stones of which the lift is con-
structed !
BALERNO, a village in the parish of Currie, in
Mid Lothian. It stands on the water of Leith,
about 6 miles west of Edinburgh. There is a free-
stone quarry here, and a paper-mill.
BALFOUR. See Markinch.
BALFRON,* a parish in Stirlingshire, bounded
on the north by Drymen and Kippen parishes ; on
the east by Gargunnock ; on the south by Fintry and
Killearn ; and on the west by Drymen. It is nearly
12 miles in length from west to east, and about 2 in
average breadth. From the river Endrick, which
skirts its southern boundary, the surface rises
gradually towards the north. Population, in 1801,
1,634; in 1S31, 2,057, of whom 1,700 resided in the
village of Balfron. Houses 193. Assessed proper-
ty, in 1815, £4,925. Valued rent £2,078 2s. 4d.
Scots. Real rent, in 1812, £3,480 lis. The po-
pulation is chiefly composed of hand-loom weavers,
cotton-spinners, and a few farmers. The village of
Balfron is 19 miles north of Glasgow, and about the
same distance west-south-west of Stirling. In the
vicinity are the Ballindalloch cotton-mills which,
in 1838, employed 239 hands. The village of Bal-
fron was founded in 1789 by Robert Dunmore, Esq.
of Ballindalloch, who first introduced cotton-weav-
ing into the parish This parish is in the presby-
tery of Dumbarton, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr.
Patron, the Earl of Kinnoul. Stipend, £157 6s. 4d. ;
with a manse, and a glebe valued at £25. Church
built in 1832 ; sittings 690 — There is a United Se-
cession congregation at Holm-of-Balfron, which has
existed for nearly a century. Church, built about
1790; sittings 500. Stipend £100 — There is also
a congregation in connection with the Relief. Churcb
built in 1797; sittings 320. Stipend £75, with a
house and garden There are two parochial schools,
attended by about 76 children. The salary of one
of the masters is £25, with £10 fees; of the other
£10, with £7 10s. fees. There were in 1834, three
private schools within the parish, attended by about
140 children.
BALGALVIES (Loch), "a small lake, which for-
merly existed in Forfarshire, formed by the waters
of the Lunan in their passage through the parish of
of Rescobie. It lay to the south-east of the loch of
Rescobie, and closely adjoining to it. It has been
drained, and affords excellent marl — [Headrick's
' View of Angus,' p. 85.]
BALGOLLO, a hill in the parish of Moniefieth, in
Forfarshire, about half a mile from the Tay, on which
are the remains of fortifications erected by the Eng-
lish, in 1548, when in possession of Broughty castle,
which lies at its base.
BALGONIE, a village in Fifeshire, in the parish
of Markinch, 2 miles south of that place. Near it,
on the south bank of the Leven, is Balgonie castle,
one of the seats of the Earl of Leven, created Baron
Balgonie in 1641. It is of great antiquity, and is in
tolerably good repair.
BALGOWNIE. See Aberdeen. " The brig
of Doon, near the ' auld toun' of Aberdeen," writes
Lord Byron in one of his letters, " with its one arch
and its deep black salmon stream below, is in my
memory as yesterday. I still remember, though per-
haps I may misquote the awful proverb which made
me pause to cross it, and yet lean over it with a
childish delight, being an only son, at least by the
mother's side. The saying as recollected by me was
* This name is understood by some to be BaLfruin, i. e.
' the Town of Sorrow.' Others derive it from Bu/./uar-avon
' tlie Cold town of the river.'
BAL
96
BAL
this, but I have never heard or seen it since I was
nine years of age : —
Bri£ of BalgouDie black's your wa' !
Wi' a wife's ae son, and a raear's ae foal,
Doun ye shall fa'."
BALGRAY, a hamlet, 3 miles north-west of
Glasgow, in the parish of Govan. There is here
an excellent free-stone quarry, about 600 yards from
the Forth and Clyde canal, at which there is a wharf
for shipping the stones.
BALLACHULISH, or Ballahulish, or Bal-
chollish,* a quoad sacra parish, divided from the
parish of Kilmalie by authority of the General As-
sembly in May, 1833. It consists of two distinct
districts, separated from each other by the Linnhe
loch, with a church in each district in which wor-
ship is performed alternately once a fortnight. The
district connected with the church at North Balla-
chulish, which lies in Inverness-shire, is 17 miles in
length by 7 in breadth ; that connected with the
church at Ardgour, in Argyleshire, is 14 miles by 6.
The two churches are about 4 miles apart, and were
built in 1829, at an expense of £1,470 each, under
the provisions of the act 5° Geo. IV. c. 90. The
church at Ballachulish has 300 sittings ; that of
Ardgour, 210. Stipend £120, with a manse and
glebe. Population of the Ardgour district in De-
cember 1835, 549 ; of the Ballachulish district, 706.
Total, 1,255, of whom 935 belonged to the Estab-
lished church. This parish is in the presbytery of
A bertarff, and synod of Glenelg. Patron, the Crown.
— There is a large and valuable slate-quarry here, on
the great clay-slate formation which extends from
Easdale on the south to this point northwards.
" The prospect from the inn is, on all hands,
sublime. Beyond the ferry, the hills, covered
with woods and pastures, rise gradually to a con-
siderable height, and decline to the south-west,
where the lochs of Leven and Linnhe unite ; in
that direction, the eye, gliding over a vast ex-
panse of water, is arrested by immense groups of
mountains of different forms and heights in Morven,
which compose an admirable landscape. About 4
miles eastward are the stupendous mountains of
Glenco. Such variety of grand and interesting
scenery is not perhaps to be found in any other part
of Scotland."— [Play fair, Vol. II. p. 15.]— Balla-
chulish ferry is 5 miles from Corran ferry ; 16
miles from King's House ; 14 from Fort- William ;
31 from Tyndrum by the Glenco road; 45 from
Fort- Augustus ; and 61 from Inverary by the mili-
tary road.
BALLINDALLOCH. See articles, Aven and
Inveraven.
BALLANTRAE, a large parish forming the
south-east corner of Ayrshire. It is bounded on the
north and north-east by the parish of Colmonell; on
the east and south-east by the parish of New Luce
in Wigtonshire ; on the south by that of Inch in
Wigtonshire ; on the south-west by Loch Ryan ;
and on the west by the Irish sea. The extent of
sea-coast is about 12 miles. The shore, excepting
for about 2 miles opposite to the village of Ballan-
trae, is in general high and rocky, having a tremen-
dous surf or swell beating against it when the wind
blows from the west or north-west. Opposite to
this coast the sea appears land-locked : for a most
spacious bay of nearly 25 or 30 leagues diameter is
formed by part of the coast of Galloway, part of the
two counties of Down and Antrim in Ireland, the
east coast of Argyleshire, part of Dumbartonshire,
and the whole stretch of coast along the shire of
+ By Webster, written Baltychelish ; by Playfair, Bailiche-
lish; by many. BaUuchuliafi ; by others, BaUlhuluh; and by
Wacculloeh, BdUtliutisli.
Ayr for about 80 miles. All this vast extent of
coast is easily discernible by the naked eye in a clear
day, together with the islands of Sana, Arran, Bute,
and the two small islands of Cumbrae. The land
rises with a gradual slope from the shore to the tops
of the mountains forming part of that extensive range
of hills which stretches across the south of Scotland,
almost from the Irish sea to the frith of Forth be-
yond Edinburgh. The highest hill is that of Beine-
rard, about 6 miles south-east of Ballantrae, which,
according to Thomson's atlas, has an elevation of
1,430 feet. The surface is much diversified with
heights and hollows, intersected by little streams of
water descending from the hills. All beyond the
mountains towards the east is soft mossy ground
covered with heath and ling. The principal river is
the Abdstinchar: see that article. There is an-
other stream called the App, which flows in a south-
west direction through Glenapp into Loch Ryan.
Mr. Aiton estimated the superficial area of this parish
at 49,000 Scots acres; in the Statistical report of
1838 it is estimated at between 24,000 and 25,000,
of which about 7,000 are arable. The valued rental
is £3,551 Is. 6d. Scots; the real rental, in 1790,
about £2,000, but, in 1838, nearly £7,500. The
want of roads, complained of in the Statistical report
of 1791, has now been remedied; there is a good
turnpike-road from Stranraer to the village of Ballan-
trae, a distance of 17 miles, and also from Ballantrae
to Girvan, a distance of 12^ miles; besides numerous
branch-roads. The village of Ballantrae consists
of about 84 houses, with a population of 456. It
now enjoys regular steam-communication with Glas-
gow at least three times a- week. Population of the
parish, in 1801, 837; in 1831, 1,506. Houses 263.
Assessed property, in 1815, £4,6S4 The parish
of Ballantrae is in the presbytery of Stranraer, and
synod of Galloway. Both the parish oi Ballantrae,
and the neighbouring parish of Colmonell, were
originally connected with the presbytery of Ayr, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr; but were disjoined in
1699, on account of their great distance from the
seat of presbytery, and annexed to the presbytery of
Stranraer and synod of Galloway. Patroness, tb;e
Duchess De Coigny. Stipend £258 Is. 3d., with a
manse, and a glebe of the value of £15 10s. Church
built in 1819; sittings 600. Parochial schoolmas-
ter's salary £34 4s., with £16 school fees, and £16
other emoluments. Average number of pupils 40.
There are three private schools in this parish, which
were attended, in 1834, by about 80 pupils. There
is a chapel and a school in Glenapp. — Chambers says :
" The inhabitants of this part of the country were,
till within the last twenty or thirty years, almost as
wild and rude as the remote Highlanders of Ross-
shire, though no doubt a great deal wealthier. And
what the natural circumstances of the district gave
rise to, was greatly influenced, at one period, by the
lawless state into which much of the population was
thrown by smuggling. It is not yet more than forty
years, since the immense bands of people, who, in
this district, attend funerals, would fall out on the
road to the parish town, where the church-yard is
situated, and without regard to the sober character
of their duty, set down the corpse and fight out their
quarrel, with fists, sticks, and such other rustic
weapons as they happened to be possessed of, till, in
the end, one party had to quit the field discomfited,
leaving the other to finish the business of the fune-
ral. Brandy, from the French luggers that were
perpetually hovering on the coast, was the grand
inspiration in these polymachia, which, it is needless
to say, are totally unknown in our own discreeter
times. Another fact may be mentioned, as evincing
the state of barbarity from which Ballantrae has re.
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97
BAL
cenfly emerged, that previous to the end of the eigh-
teenth century, there was not a single individual con-
nected with the three learned faculties, not so much
as a justice of the peace, in the whole district, nor
within twelve miles of it." — The only antiquities
within the parish are the remains of an old church at
the north-east extremity of the parish, which seems
to have been formerly the parish-church, and to have
been deserted for the present one as being more com-
modious for the inhabitants; and the remains of a
large old castle adjoining the village, and situated
upon a high rock now within the minister's glebe,
which about a century ago belonged to the Lords of
Bargenv.
BALLATER, a village in the parish of Glen-
muick, Aberdeenshire, on the left bank of the Dee,
li mile above Pannanich, and 4\-h west of Aberdeen.
This is a fashionable watering-place. The chaly-
beate wells are at Pannanich, which is always crowd-
ed during the summer-months, but the visitors re-
side at Ballater. A bridge was built across the Dee
here in 1783, but was destroyed by a river-flood in
1799. A new bridge was finished at the end of the
year 1811, witha water-way of 238 feet, at an expense
of .£4,224. Itconsisted of live arches, the middle arch
having a span of 60 feet, the extreme arches of 34, and
the intervening arches of 55 feet. This bridge also
was swept away by the great flood in August 1829.
" The view of Ballater from the lower extremity of
the plain," says Sir T. D. Lauder, "is something
quite exquisite. I do not speak of the village itself,
which, at that distance, presents little more than the
indication of a town, with a steeple rising from it ;
but I allude to the grand features of nature by which
it is surrounded. The very smallness of the town
adds to the altitude of the mountains ; for, when
seen from the point I mean, it might be a city for
aught the traveller knows to the contrary. It
stands, half- hidden among trees, in the rich and
diversified vale. On the north rises the mountain-
ous rock of Craigdarroch, luxuriantly wooded with
birch, and divided olf from the bounding mountains
of that side of the valley by the wild and anciently
impregnable Pass of Ballater. Beyond the river,
amidst an infinite variety of slopes and wood, is
seen the tall old hunting-tower of Knock; and, be-
hind it, distance rises over distance, till the prospect
is terminated by the long and shivered front, and
(when 1 saw it on the 15th of October last) the
snow-covered ridge of Loch-na-gar — the nurse of
the sublime genius of Byron, who, in his beautiful
little poem, so entitled, still
* Sighs lor the valley of dark Lnch-na-gar.'n
BALLERNO, or Balledgarno, a village in the
parish of lnchture, in Perthshire, the property of
Lord Kinnaird. It is 14 miles north-east of Perth,
and 14 north-west of lnchture.
BALLINGRAY, an upland parish in Fifeshire ;
bounded on the north by Portmoak parish ; on the
east by Kinglassie and Auchterderran; on the south
by Auchterderran and Beath ; and on the west by
Cleish. It is about 3£ miles in length, by H in
breadth. About one-third of the parish is under
tillage. Coal is extensively wrought in it. There
was until recently a considerable loch in this parish
called Loch Orr, from which the small stream Orr
issues ; but it has been in great part drained. To-
wards the eastern extremity of this loch was a small
island, upon which stood the remains of an ancient
castle supposed to have been founded in the reign of
Malcolm III. The family of Loch Orr was of con-
siderable importance in early times. In the reign of
Alexander II., Adam De Loch Orr was sheriff of
Perth , and the name of Thomas De Loch Orr oc-
I.
curs in the roll of the parliament held at Ayr. The
domain of Loch Orr afterwards passed into the
hands of the Wardlaws of Torry. A little to the
westward of Loch Orr house were the vestiges of
a Roman camp, now levelled and effaced. Some
have conjectured that this was the spot where the
Ninth legion was attacked and nearly cut off by the
Caledonians. Population, in 1801, 277; in 1831,
392. Houses 65. Assessed property £3,014 — This
parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy, and synod
of Fife. Patron, Jobson of Lochore. Stipend
.£172 8s. 3d., with a manse, and a glebe valued at
£18. Church built in 1831. Schoolmaster's stipend
£34 4s. 4Ad., with about £8 10s. of fees and other
emoluments. Pupils, in 1834, 20.
BALLO, one of the Sidlaw range of hills, in the
parish of Longforgan, Perthshire. It attains an alti-
tude of 992 feet above sea-level.
BALLOCH, a ferry in the parish of Bonhill,
Dumbartonshire, a little below the issue of the Leven
from Loch Lomond. Somewhat to the north-east of
this ferry are the ruins of Balloch castle, an ancient
stronghold of the earls of Lennox.
BALLOCH, a small sheet of water, about half-a-
mile in circumference, at the foot o^ Torlum, in the
parish of JMuthil in Perthshire. It discharges itself
into the Earn by a small stream.
BALLOCHGEICH, a steep narrow ascent lead-
ing to the old postern gate of Stirling castle. That
facetious monarch James V., when rambling through
the country after the fashion of Sultan Alraschid,
was wont to assume the title of ' The gudeman o'
Ballochgeich,' or ' Ballengeich.'
BALLOCHMYLE, a locality in Ayrshire, on
which Burns has conferred celebrity by his tine song
of ' The Bonny Lass o' Ballochim le.' ' The braes o'
Ballochmi le ' are on the northern hank of the Ayr,
between Catriiie and Howford bridge, and about 2
miles distant from Mossgiel. " Bending in a con-
cave form," sa\s Chambers in his 'Illustrations of
the Land of Burns,' "a mixture of steep bank and
precipice, clothed with the most luxuriant natural
wood, while a tine river sweeps round beneath them,
they form a scene of bewildering beauty, exactly such
as a poet would love to dream in during a July eve.''
BALLOCHNEY RAILWAY. This is an ex-
tension of one of the branches of the Monkland and
Kirkintilloch railway, or rather a prolongation of
that railway, by two arms which run into the interior
of New Monkland parish, so as to embrace the coal
and iron-stone works in the rich mining districts on
both sides of Airdrie. The company of proprietors
was incorporated in 1826 by 7° Geo. IV. c. 48. The
original capital was £18,000, which was increased,
in 1835, to £28,000; and by an act passed in July
1839, to £70,000. It commences at Kipps colliery,
about 2 miles west of Airdrie, runs from thence in an
easterly direction, and passing Airdrie about a quarter
of a-mile to the north, terminates at Ballochney col-
liery, about 3 miles to the north-east, sending out in
its course several branches to the town and to the
different collieries. This is but a short railway, not
exceeding 3 miles of length in the main line, and
about as much in the branches; but it is remarkable
for two beautiful self-acting inclined planes, which
form part of the line, and are the first of the kind
that have been constructed in Scotland on any great
scale. The gravity of the ascending and descending
trains of waggons, are nicely balanced against each
other, and their velocities regulated throughout the
different parts of the line by varying slightly the in-
clination of the plane from top to bottom, by which
means undue acceleration is prevented. The Balloch-
ney lower inclined plane is 1,100 yards in length, and
rises 118 feet perpendicular; the inclination vanua
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98
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from I in 22 at the top to 1 in 32 at the bottom ; the
upper inclined plane is also 1,100 yards in length,
and rises 94 feet perpendicular, varying in inclination
from 1 in 25 at the top to 1 in 36 at the bottom.
BALLYCHELISH. See Ballacholish.
BALMACLELLAN, a parish in Kirkcudbright-
shire ; bounded on the north-west and north by the
parish of Dairy; on the north and north-east by
Dumfries-shire; on the east by Kirkpatrick-Durham
parish ; on the south by Partoun parish ; and on the
south-west by the parish of Kells. Its outline is
very irregular. In its greatest dimensions, from
north-east to south-west, it is about 14 miles. Its
greatest admeasurement from east to west is about
10 miles. Urr water, flowing from Loch Urr, forms
its eastern boundary ; the Ken and Loch Ken skirt
it on the south-west; while the Grapel, flowing
south-west into the Ken, and the head-sources of
the Cairn flowing north-east, separate it from Dairy.
The road from Dumfries to Newton-Stewart, by New
Galloway, intersects the lower or southern half of the
parish, from east to west, passing the kirk-town,
which is H mile north-east of New Galloway. The
surface is in general level, except towards the nor-
thern march, where there is a considerable range of
hills running north-east and south-west. Along the
banks of the Ken, the soil is chiefly dry, light, and
gravelly ; the remainder is also of a light nature, but
sometimes of a deep moss, and covered with heath.
There are five small lakes within the parish, which
are plentifully stocked with fish, especially Loch
Brack, which is remarkable for excellent trout of a
large size. This parish seems to have derived its
name from its ancient proprietors ; a branch of the
family of Maclellan having possessed lands contiguous
to the church and village for several centuries, and
they are supposed to have transferred their name to
the property. This family was in great authority so
early as the reign of Alexander II. ; in 1217, David
Maclellan is mentioned in a charter of that king;
they were also heritable sheriffs of Galloway till the
time of James II. Its branches were so numerous
and respectable that there were then in Galloway
twelve knights of the name of Maclellan, of whom
Sir Patrick Maclellan, tutor of Bombie, was the
chief. He was the eldest son of Sir Patrick, who
lived about the year 1410, and of a daughter of Sir
Andrew Gray, of Broxmouth and Foulis. But, in
1452, having taken part with Hemes, of Tereagles,
against William, Earl Douglas, he was besieged in
his own castle of Raeberry, and after being cast into
close prison in the Earl's castle of Thrieve, was put
to death, and interred in the abbey of Dundrennan.
Whereupon his relations, making great depredations
on Douglas's lands in Galloway, his office of sheriff
was forfeited to the Crown. Sir Robert Maclellan
was made a gentleman of the bed-chamber by Charles
I., and afterwards, in 1633, created baron Kirkcud-
bright, with limitation to heirs male. The family-
possessions at Kirkcudbright have long since been
alienated ; and the title has been dormant since the
death of the 9th lord in 1832. Population, in 1801,
554; in J831, 1,013. Houses 205. Assessed pro-
perty ±'4,953 This parish, formerly a rectory, is
in the presbytery of Kirkcudbright, and synod of
Galloway. Patron, the Crown. Minister's stipend
.£226 19s. 8d., with a manse, and a glebe of the
value of ±'35. Church built in 1722; enlarged in
1833; sittings 366. Of a population of 1,050 as-
certained by census in 183fi, 950 belonged to the
established church, and 100 to the Dissenters. There
were 3 parochial schools in this parish in 1834. The
salary of each of the masters is ±'17 2s. 2d. ; and the
school-fees of two of them amounted to about ±30.
Average number of scholars at the three schools 95.
BALMAGHIE,* a parish in Kircudbrightshire;
bounded on the north by the parishes of Kells and
Partoun, from which it is separated by the water of
Dee ; on the east by the parishes of Crossmichael
and Tongueland, from which it is separated by the
Dee; on the south by Tongueland and Twineham
parishes; and on the west by Girthon, from which it
is separated by Auchencloy burn, which flows north
into the Dee. Its length may be about 8 or 9, and
its breadth from 3 to 6 miles. The general appear-
ance of the surface is far from pleasing to the eye.
A great part of it is covered with heath, flocks, ana
morasses. There are a few bleak rugged hills, which
rise to a considerable height, and are incapable of
improvement ; but the parish in general cannot be
said to be mountainous. The best cultivated tracts
lie along the eastern and southern skirts. There are
five small lakes in the parish, in which anglers find
abundance of pike, perch, and trout. Of these,
Grannoch, or Woodhall loch, is the largest; it is
about a quarter of a mile broad, and 2^ miles in
length. At Lochenbreck, on the estate of Wood-
hall, is a strong mineral spring, "that for time im-
memorial," says a writer quoted in the Old Statistical
account, " has been frequented by numbers every
spring and summer -season, for behoof of their health ;
and its good effects have been sanctioned by every
one of the faculty that knows its virtues. It is a
chalybeate water, and perhaps one of the strongest
of the kind in North Britain." The valued rent of
the parish is ±3,651 Scots; its real rent, at the close
of last century, was £2,640 sterling. Assessed pro-
perty, in 1815, ±7,986. Population, in 1801, 969;
in 1831, 1,416. Houses 228. — This parish is in the
presbytery of Kirkcudbright, and synod of Galloway.
Patron, Gordon of Balmaghie. Stipend ±203 8s.
Sd., with a manse, and a glebe of the value of ±17
10s. Unappropriated teinds ±146 0s. Id. Church
built in 1794; sittings 360. The dissenters are about
150 in number, of whom the greater part are Roman
Catholics, who have their plaees of worship at Dal-
beattie and Gatehouse of Fleet. The remainder are
Reformed Presbyterians. There are '2 parish-schools,
which were attended by about 200 children in 1834.
The salary of one schoolmaster was ±12, with about
±30 fees ; of the other £17 6s. 6d., with ±18 lees.
There was also a private school with about 100 pu-
pils After the Revolution, the Covenanters dissent-
ed from the church on account of her Eras'tianism, and
professed to refuse subjection to the state, because
the king and parliament had not subscribed the cove-
nants. They had no minister for about sixteen
years, but they met for worship in societies, in differ-
ent parts of the south and west of Scotland, where
they chiefly resided and were known by the name of
' Hill Folk,' ' Society Men,' and ' Cameronians.'
Their views were favoured by Mr. John Macmillan,
minister of the gospel at Balmaghie, who sometimes
dispensed religious ordinances to some of them who
resided without the bounds of his own parish. For
this he was deposed from the office of the ministry
abouttheycar 1704. Hesubmittedforsometimetothe
sentence of deposition, but conceiving it to be founded
in error, he afterwards resumed the office of the min-
istry. After preaching for some time, he received acall
from the societies in the year 1706, and continued to
be their sole minister till he was joined by Mr. Nairn,
about the year 1743, and these two were the only
ministerial members who constituted the first Re-
* " Bat, in the Gaelic language, signifies a township or resi-
dence. For about 600 years previous to the year 1786, the
I uiiily of Maghie of tialmaghie possessed extensive estates in
this part of the country, aud here they resided. Hence the
etymology of tike name of the parish is obvious, " — Old Stattstiaut
Account,
BAL
99
BAL
formed Presbytery. — Several persons here suffered
as martyrs, during the persecution which prevailed
in the 17th century. . In the churchyard there are
grave-stones over three of them. One of these has
the following epitaph engraven on it:—
Here lyes David Halliday, portinner of Meifield, who was
shot upon the 21st of February, 1685, and David Halliday, once
in Glengape, who was likewise shot upon the 11th of July, 1685,
for their adherence to the principles of Scotland's Covenanted
Reformation.
Beneath this stone two David Hallidays
Do lie, whose souls now sing their Master's praise.
To know if curious passengers desire,
For what, hy whom, and how they did expire ;
Tliey did oppose this nation's perjury,
Nor could they join with lordly prelacy.
Indulging favours from Christ's enemies,
Quencird not their zeal this monument then crieBj
These were the causes not to be forgot,
Why they hy Lag so wickedly were shot ,
One name, one cause, one crave, one heaven do tie
Their souls to that one God eternally.
BALMANGAN BAY, a small harbour below
Kirkcudbright, at the mouth of the Dee. There are
12 or 15 feet water here at four hours flood in all
tides.
BALMERINO, a parish in Fifeshire ; bounded on
the north by the frith of Tay ; on the east by the
parish of Forgan ; on the south by Kilmany ; and on
the west by Creigh and Flisk. Its medium length
from east to west is about 3i miles; and its greatest
breadth 2A miles. Two hilly ridges, spurs of the
Ochills, traverse the parish from east to west, leaving
between them a fertile valley inclining towards the
east. The highest point of the southern ridge is
Coultry hill, which exceeds 500 feet, and is wooded
to the top. The whole shore is bold and rocky.
Mr. Leighton states the area of the parish at 3,346
acres, of which 2,700 are in cultivation, and about
500 under wood. The valued rent is ,£3,944 9s. 2d.
Scots. Real rent .£4,800. Assessed property, in
1815, £4,331. Population, in 1801,786; in 1831,
1,055. Houses 212. There are four villages in the
parish : namely, Galdry near the northern boundary;
Balmerino on the coast; Coultry towards the west;
and Kirkton. Balmerino is a nice little fishing vil-
lage, and a creek of the port of Dundee, with which
it communicates by a weekly packet. When the
first Statistical report was written, it was stated that
above 7,000 bolls of grain were yearly shipped at this
port for Dundee and other markets; but this trade
no longer exists : the farmers find it more con-
venient to send their grain to Cupar, and other
neighbouring towns. Salmon are caught on the
coast by means of the toot net, but no longer in such
numbers as formerly ; and that delicate little fish,
the spirling, once caught here in immense quantities,
seems to have betaken itself to other haunts. A
considerable number of the population are employed
in weaving for the Dundee manufacturers. Mr.
Leighton says an expert weaver can earn upon an
average 2s. per day of twelve hours. We greatly
fear this is too high an estimate. At this present
time the average of the nett weekly earnings of a
steady weaver in Dundee does not exceed 9s. per
week The lands of Balmerino, at the beginning of
the 13th century, were in the possession of Henry
de Ruel or Rewel, whose nephew and heir, Richard,
sold them, in 1225, to Queen Emergarde, the mother
of Alexander II., for 1,000 merks. Emergarde founded
an abbey upon her newly acquired possession, which
she dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and to St Edward
the Confessor ; and, dying in 1233, was buried before
the high altar. The last abbot of this well-endowed
house was Sir John Hay. After the Reformation,
the lands belonging to it were erected into a temporal
lordship in favour of Sir James Elphinston, in whose
family they continued till the forfeiture of John, 6th
Lord Balmerino, in 1746. They were then purchased
from the Crown by the York Buildings company,
who resold them to the Earl of Moray. The remains
of the abbey are now of trifling extent. An arcade
of pointed arches supported on short thick pillars,
and two vaulted apartments still remain ; but the
chapel has entirely disappeared. There are still some
remains of the orchard, and one or two venerable
chestnut trees in the surrounding grounds.* — A little
to the east of the abbey are the ruins of the ancient
castle of Naughton, surmounting an isolated mass of
rock. Sir William Hay of Naughton is noticed by
Winton as
" Ane hanest knycht, and of gud fame,
A travalit knycht lang before than."
And Gawain Douglas places him among the heroes
of romance in his ' Palice of Honour :'
" Then saw I Maitland upon auld beir'd grey,
Robin Hude, and Gilbert with thequhite hand,
How Hay of Nauchton flew in Madin land."
Mr. Leighton conjectures that Naughton was the
site of the battle of Dunnechtan, fought in 6S5,
wherein the Pictish king, Bredei, defeated and slew
the Saxon king, Egfrid of Northumbria. But Chal-
mers supposes this engagement to have taken place
at Dunnichen in Angus. f There is a field in the
neighbourhood of Nauchton, called Battle-law, w here
the Danes, in their flight from the battle of Lun-
carty, made a vigorous stand against the Scots and
Picts under Kenneth III., but were again put to
flight with severe loss, and compelled to take refuge
in their ships which lay in the mouth of the Tay. —
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presbytery
of Cupar, and synod of Fife. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend £239 9s., with a manse, and a glebe of the
value of £18. Unappropriated teinds £95 4s. 4d.
The abbey-church was used for service till the year
1595, when a new church was erected near the "foot
of the Scurr hill, where the burial-ground still re-
mains, although the church now in use, which was
built in 1811, is farther east, or more towards the
centre of the parish. There are about 100 dissen-
ters in the parish, who are mostly connected with the
Secession-church at Rathillet. The parish- school
is at Galdry. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 2d.,
with from £25 to £28 of fees. Average number of
scholars 80. There is a female school attended by
about 40 children.
BALNAHUAIGH, an islet of about one mile in
circuit, lying midway between Lunga and Eisdale.
It is included in the parish of Jura, and, in 1800, had
a population of 150, who were supported by quarrying
slate, the whole rock being one slate-quarry.
BALNAMOON'S MIRES, a morass formerly of
great extent, but now drained and cultivated, about
5 miles north of Arbroath. The small stream Keiler
takes its rise here.
BALQUHIDDER, a very large parish in the
south-west of Perthshire ; bounded on the west and
north by Killin ; on the east by Comrie ; and on the
south by Callander. Measured from its north-east
to its south-west corner, it is 20 miles in length ; and
from Craig-na-Cailliach on its north-eastern border,
across the country in a north-west direction, it is 10
miles. Its general outline is triangular, and it is
nearly enclosed by ranges of lofty mountains, from
which numerous torrents descend to Loch Voel,
which, with its adjunct Loch Doine, occupies the
* Grose has given a view of these ruins. Another and re-
cent view is given in 'Fife Illustrated,' Glasgow, 1839, 4Co.
t Simeon of Durham relates that this battle was fought in
the vicinity of a lake, which he calls Stagnum Nechtain ; and
the Saxon Chronicle says that the field of battle was "juxta
mare Boreali." It is not easy to reconcile these features with
the present locality.
BAL
100
BAL
centre of the parish. These loehs discharge them-
selves by the fialvaig, into Loch Lubnaig, of which
the northern half is projected into this parish, on the
cast of Craig-na-Cailliaeh. See articles Loch Doine,
Loch Lubnaig, and Loch Voel. After heavy
rains the low grounds around these lochs are widely
inundated — as might be expected from the form of
the country. According to tradition all the lower
grounds, and the foot of the mountains in this parish,
were formerly covered with wood ; and large trunks
of oak and birch trees are still found occasionally in
the mosses. There is still a considerable quantity
of coppice within this parish. The writer of the first
Statistical account claims the south part of Benmore
as in this parish, and estimates its height at 3,903
feet above sea-level; also the western side of Ben
Voirlich, to which he assigns an altitude of 3,300
feet. A little to the south of Benmore is Binean,
or 'the Mountain of Birds,' which has a nearly equal
elevation. To the south-west of Binean is Beu-
chroan ; and to the south-east of Beuchroan are
Stobdune and Benchoan. All these are very lolty
mountains ; but we have not admeasurements of their
respective heights. The principal roads which in-
tersect this parish is that from Callander, by Loch
Lubnaig, to Lochearnhead, and through Glen Ogle
to Tyndrum ; and that from Lochearnhead to Bal-
quhidder. Glen Ogle is a narrow pass hemmed in
for several miles on both sides by very lofty and
precipitous rocks. Glen Ample is a narrow deep
ravine on the eastern skirts of the parish, intersected
by a rapid mountain-torrent called the Ample, which
flows north into Loch Earn. The vale of Bal-
qnhidder, and its two fine lochs, presents some very
beautiful scenery, and is rife with traditions of Rob
Roy, many of whose exploits were performed here ;
and whose ashes rest in the little churchyard of
Balquhidder. To the west of the kirk-town are
' The Braes of Balquhidder,' celebrated in Scottish
song. This village is 12 miles distant from Callan-
der. Population of the parish, in 1801, 1,377; in
1831,1,049. Houses200. Assessed property £6,794.
— This parish is in the presbytery of Dunblane, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, Sir Evan J.
Macgregor, Bart. Minister's stipend ,£275 15s. lid.,
with a manse, and a glebe of the value of £'20.
Church built in 1631; repaired in 1810; sittings
425. The district of Lochearnhead, called the half-
parish, being part quoad civilia of Comrie parish,
is annexed to Balquhidder quoad sacra. It contains
about 200 individuals. There are about 20 dissen-
ters within the parish.
BALTA, an islet King to the east of the isle of
tlnst, in the Shetland groupe, in N. lat. 60° 41'.
Balta sound, between Balta and Unst, is a bay 2 miles
in length, and about half-a-mile broad, so completely
shut in by the island of Balta that, seen from a dis-
tance, it resembles a lake. Both sides of this bay
are in a state of high cultivation. An excellent
survey of Balta harbour, by Captain Ramage, was
published in 1819.
BALVAIG (The), a stream which rises in the
western corner of Balquhidder parish in Perthshire,
flows east-north-east into Loch Doine, through which
it flows into Loch Voel, and thence emerging, flows
first east, and then south, to Loch Lubnaig, from the
lower or southern extremity of which it re-issues,
and then flows south-east .into the Teith, coming
from Loch Venachoir, which it joins at Bochastle,
about half-a-mile above Callander bridge.
BALWEARIE, the ancient seat of the family of
" the wondrous Michael Scott,"
in the parish of Abbotshall, Fifeshire. Sir Michael
flourished during the 13th century, and was born at
BaUvearie some time previous to the year 1214.
Filled with the thirst of learning from his j outh, he
left his native country, and studied successively at
Oxford — where he had Roger Bacon for a fellow-
student — at Padua, and at Toledo ; and, having ac-
quired a European reputation for learning, was invited
to the court of the emperor of Germany, where he
remained some years. On his return to England, be
was honourably received by Edward I., who perr ■
mitted him to proceed to Scotland, where he arrived
just after the death of Alexander III., rendered an
embassy to Norway expedient, for the purpose of
conveying the princess Margaret, daughter of Eric,
king of Norway, by Margaret, the eldest daughter of
Alexander III., to Scotland, of the crown of which
kingdom she had become, by her grandfather's death,
the direct and lawful inheritrex. To this honourable
embassy, Sir David Scott, and Sir Michael Wemyss,
another Fifeshire gentleman, were appointed by the
regents of the kingdom. They succeeded so far in
their mission as to get the young princess intrusted
to their care ; but the royal maiden sickened on her
passage to Scotland, and died in Orkney. Sir Mi-
chael's name does not again appear in history ; he
died soon after, having attained an extreme age.
Tradition varies concerning the place of his burial ;
by some accounts he is represented as having been
buried at Home-Cultram in Cumberland, where
Henry, son of King David of Scotland, had founded
a Cistercian abbey, of which abbey Lysons says, Mi-
chael Scott was a monk about the year 1190; by
others, he is said to have been buried in Melrose-
abbey. Our great Minstrel has decided in favour of
Melrose, and any other belief on this subject is there-
fore most unwarrantable. " It is well known," savs
Tytler, in his 'Lives of Scottish Worthies,' [vol. I.
p. 121.,] "that many traditions are still prevalent in
Scotland concerning the extraordinary powers of the
Wizard ; and if we consider the thick cloud of igno-
rance which overspread the country at the period of
his return from the continent, and the very small
materials which are required by Superstition as a
groundwork for her dark and mysterious stories, we
shall not wonder at the result. The Arabic books
which he brought along with him, the apparatus of
his laboratory, his mathematical and astronomical in-
struments, the Oriental costume generally worn by
the astrologers of the times, and the appearance of
the white-haired and venerable sage, as he sat on the
roof of his tower of Balwearie, observing the face of
the heavens, and conversing with the stars, were all
amply sufficient to impress the minds of the vulgar
with awe and terror. ' Accordingly,' says Sir Walter
Scott, in his Notes on the Lay of the Last Minstrel,
'the memory of Sir Michael Scott survives in many
a legend, and in the south of Scotland any work of
great labour and antiquity is ascribed either to the
agency of Auld Michael, of Sir William Wallace, or
of the Devil.' Some of the most current of these
traditions are so happily described by the above
mentioned writer, that we cannot refrain from quot-
ing the passage. 'Michael was chosen,' it is said,
' to go upon an embassy to obtain from the king of
Fiance satisfaction for certain piracies committed by
his subjects upon those of Scotland. Instead of pre-
paring a new equipage and splendid retinue, the am-
bassador retreated to his study, and evoked a fiend,
in the shape of a huge black horse, mounted upon his
back, and forced hiin to fly through the air towards
France. As they crossed the sea, the devil insi-
diously asked his rider what it was the old women
of Scotland muttered at bed-time. A less experienced
might have answered, that it was the Pater Noster,
which would have licensed the devil to precipitate
him from his back. But Michael sternly replied,
BAL
101
BAN
' What is that to thee ?
Mount, Diabolus, and flee!'
When he arrived at Paris, he tied his horse to the
gate of the palace, entered, and boldly delivered his
message. An ambassador with so little of the pomp
and circumstance of diplomacy, was not received
with much respect, and the king was about to return
a contemptuous refusal to his demand, when Michael
besought him to suspend his resolution till he had
seen his horse stamp three times. The first stamp
shook every steeple in Paris, and caused all the bells
to ring; the second threw down three towers of the
palace ; and the infernal steed had lifted his foot to
give the third stamp, when the king rather choose to
dismiss Michael with the most ample concessions,
than to stand the probable consequences. Another
time, it is said, when residing at the tower of Oak-
wood, upon the Ettrick, about three miles above
Selkirk, he heard of the fame of a sorceress, called the
Witch of Falsehope, on the opposite side of the river,
Michael went one morning to put her skill to the
test, but was disappointed, by her denying positively
any knowledge of the necromantic art. In his dis-
course with her, he laid his wand inadvertently on
the table, which the hag observing, suddenly snatch-
ed it up, and struck him with it. Feeling the force
of the charm, he rushed out of the house; but as it
had conferred on him the external appearance of a
hare, his servant, who waited without, balloo'd upon
the discomfited Wizard his own hounds, and pursued
him so close, that in order to obtain a moment's
breathing to reverse the charm, Michael, after a very
fatiguing course, was fain to take refuge in his own
jaw-hole, Anylice, common sewer. In order to re-
venge himself of the Witch of Falsehope, Michael,
one morning in the ensuing harvest, went to the hill
above the house with his dogs, and sent down his
servant to ask a bit of bread from the goodwife for
his greyhounds, with instructions what to do if he
met with a denial. Accordingly, when the witch
had refused the boon with contumely, the servant,
as his master had directed, laid above the door a
paper which he had given, containing, amongst many
cabalistical words, the well-known rhyme,
* Maister Michael Scott'R mail
Sought meat, aud gat uane.'
Immediately the good old woman, instead of pursuing
her domestic occupation, which was baking bread
for the reapers, began to dance round the fire, re-
peating the rh\me, and continued this exercise, till
her husband sent the reapers to the house, one after
another, to see what had delayed their provision, but
the charm caught each as they entered, and, losing
all idea of returning, they joined in the dance and
the chorus. At length the old man himself went to
the house, but as his wife's frolic with Mr. Michael,
whom he had seen on the hill, made him a little
cautious, he contented himself with looking in at the
window, and saw the reapers at their involuntary
exercise, dragging his wife, now completely ex-
hausted, sometimes round, and sometimes through
the fire, which was, as usual, in the midst of the
house. Instead of entering, he saddled a horse, and
rode up the hill, to humble himself before Michael,
and beg a cessation of the spell, which the good-
natured warlock immediately granted, directing him
to enter the house backwards, and with his left hand
take the spell from above the door, which according-
ly ended the supernatural dance. * * * Michael
Scott,' continues the same author, 'once upon a
time was much embarrassed by a spirit, for whom he
was under the necessity of finding constant employ-
ment. He commanded him to build a cauld, or dam-
head, across the Tweed at Kelso; it was accom-
plished in one night, and still does honour to the
infernal architect. Michael next ordered that Eildon
hill, which was then a uniform cone, should be
divided into the three picturesque peaks which it
now bears. At length the enchanter conquered this
indefatigable demon, by employing him in the hope-
less and endless task of making ropes out of sea-
sand.' " Finlay in his ' Scottish Historical and Ro-
mantic Ballads,' [vol. II. p. 55,] conjectures that
Bahvearie was the scene of the atrocious Lammikin's
" black revenge," as related in the ballad of that
name, of which one copy commences thus: — .
11 Lammikin was as glide a mason
As ever hewed a stane ;
He big-git Lord Weire's castie,
But paynieut gac he nane."
And another copy,—
*' When Balwearie and his train
Gaed to hunt Ihe wild hoar,
He gar'd bar uu his castle
Behind and before."
In this latter copy, " the wicked Balcanqual" takes
the place of Lammikin, or Lambkin ; but all writers,
Mr. Finlay tells us, agree in considering this not the
name of the hero but merely an epithet.
BANCHORY-DAVINICK, a parish divided into
two parts by the river Dee, which being the boundarv
between the counties of Aberdeen and Kincardine,
that part of the parish which lies on the north side of
the river is in the former county, and that on the
south side in the latter. That part of the parish in
Aberdeenshire, is a strip about one mile in breadth,
and 4 in length, and stretching both farther east and
farther west than the parish does upon the opposite
bank. On the east this part is bounued by the parish
of Old-Machar; on the north by New hills, and on
the west by Peterculter. The Kincardineshire por-
tion is bounded on the east by the parish of Nigg,
and by the German ocean, for about 3 miles; on the
south by Fetteresso parish ; and on the west by
Fetteresso and Maryculter. The coast is bold and
rocky, but presents three small fishing-harbours,
Findcn, Portiethen, and Downees or Dounies. The
first of these villages had a population, in 1831, of
224; the second of 220 ; and the third of about 100.
The general appearance of the country is rugged and
stony. The stone which prevails is blue granite.
The soil is in general light, and either mossy or
sandy, but when properly managed produces good
grain, particularly on the river side, and on some
parts of the coast. The writer of the Statistical
account, in 1792, complains of the high price of
labour operating as a bar to agriculture in this dis-
trict. A day-labourer, if a good hand, then earned
Is. a-day for nine months of the year, and 9d. a-day
the other three ; and the w ages of a capable farm-ser-
vant, who had his victuals found, was " seldom under
£6, and sometimes as high as £9 a-year." An anec-
dote related by the same writer curiously illustrates
the change which has taken place in the value of land
here as elsewhere throughout Scotland within the
last hundred years. " Mr. Fordyce of Ardo, one of
those brave men," says the reporter, " who circum-
navigated the globe with Lord Anson, and suffered
so many hardships in the service of their country,
alter accomplishing that voyage, returned to Scot-
land in the year 1744, with the well-earned wages of
his toil, and purchased the estate of Ardo in this
parish, where he has resided ever since. When he
took possession of his estate, he found the mansion-
house, such as it was, with the garden, and about 40
acres of land, in the hands of a tenant, who paid
about £3 6s. 8d. sterling annually. Having it in
contemplation at that time to go abroad again, he
asked the man if he would renew his lease, which
BAN
102
BAN
was expired, at the annual rent of .£5 sterling, his
answer was, ' Na, by my faith, God has gien me mair
wit I' Mr. Fordyce," adds the reporter, "settled,
and employed himself in improving the land, which
is now in a good state of cultivation, and would rent
at £1 os, an acre." The river Dee is here about 80
yards broad, but is not navigable. From its long
course, and the mountainous country through which
it runs, it is subject to sudden and high floods. A foot
suspension bridge has been thrown across the Dee in
this parish. Its span between the pillars is 185 feet,
and whole length 305 feet. Population, in 1801,
1,557; in 1831, 2,588, of whom 1,905 resided in the
Kincardineshire portion of the parish. Houses 468,
of which 353 were in Kincardineshire. Assessed
property £5,312. — Although the church stands in
Kincardineshire, the parish is in the presbytery and
synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Crown. Stipend
£159 2s. 9d., with a manse, and a glebe of the value
of £13 16s. 8d. Church built in 1822 ; sittings 900.
There are about 30 dissenters in the parish. There
is a chapel-of-ease at Portlethen, about 4i miles from
the parish-church, originally an old family-chapel ;
sittings 460. Dr. Morison, incumbent of the parish,
amongst other benefactions has built and endowed a
good school-house at this latter village. The parish-
school is attended by about 40 children. School-
master's salary £30, with about £"20 fees and other
emoluments. There are other two private schools
There are several very large cairns, both on the north
side of the river, and towards the coast. There is
also on the south side of the parish, a Druidical
temple, situated on an eminence about 1^ mile from
the coast.
BANCHORY-TARNAN,' a parish in Kincar-
dineshire; bounded on the east, north, and west, by
Aberdeenshire ; and on the south by Durris and
Strachan parishes. It is of very unequal surface ;
and the whole is interspersed with muir ground
covered with heath and hills. It contains 1 5,040
Scots acres. The rent, in 1762, was about £1,800,
besides £'200 arising from the yearly sales of birch
and fir wood. The valued rent is £3,450 Scots.
Assessed property, in 1815, £4,366. Houses 398.
Population, in 1801, 1,465; in 1831, 1,972. The
river Dee — which intersects the southern and nar-
rower portion of this parish from west to east, and
forms its southern boundary for many miles — is here
in general pretty rapid ; and its banks are adorneu
with natural woods and plantations, forming beauti-
ful and picturesque scenery in many places. This is
much heightened at Banchory-Tarnan, by the junc-
tion with the Dee of a small, but impetuous and
often impassable river called the Feugh, a collec-
tion of numerous streams which descend the Gram-
pian hills; over this river, near a fine cataract and
tall of its waters among rocks, and near its conflux
with Dee, almost opposite to Banchory, the road
from Stonehouse to Deeside is carried on a substan-
tial stone-bridge of four arches. There is a loch,
called the Loch of Drum, between 2 and 3 miles in
circuit, on the north-eastern skirts of the parish ;
and another of the same dimensions, near the middle
of the parish, called the Loch of Leys, " having,"
says the Statistical report of 1792, "an artificial
island on oak piles, with ruins of houses, and of an
oven upon it; but there is no tradition concerning
the use which may have been made of the ancient
structure." — This parish is in the presbytery of
* " The last part of the name is that of a saint ; hence one of
two annual fairs, held near by, is called St. Tarnan's market,
and a small fountain not far distant la called St. tarnan's well.
Banclior is said to signify 'fair' or 'goodly choir;1 and it is
conjectured, that in some remote period there has been a kind
of seminary ol the clergy established at this place, by one of the
above name." — Old Statistical Account.
Kincardine O'Neil, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron,
Sir T. Burnet of Leys, Bart. Stipend £287 10s.
9d., with a glebe of the value of £10. Church built
in 1775. There are 3 parochial schools, attended
by about 200 children. One of these has a small
endowment. There are besides 4 private schools.
BANFF,* a parish in Banffshire; bounded on the
north by the Moray frith; on the east by Gamrie,
and Alvah parishes ; on the south by Marnoch parish ;
and on the west by that of Boyndie. The Deveron
river separates it from Gamrie ; and the Boyndie,
from Boyndie parish. The surface is pleasingly
diversified, and is estimated in Robertson's map at
6,312 acres, and in the old Statistical account at
7,680 acres. About 250 acres are under wood. It
is generally supposed that a considerable part of this
parish towards the south-west was, in ancient times,
covered with wood, and belonged to the forest of
Boin. A simple distich, which Tradition has handed
down, confirms this opinion : —
" From Culbirnie to the 8ea,
You may step from tree to tree."
Culbirnie is a farm-hamlet about 3 miles distant
from the sea. The turnpike road from Aberdeen to
Inverness passes through the northern part of the
parish from east to west. The principal landholders
are, the Earl of Fife, the Earl of Seafield, and Sir
Robert Abercromby of Birkenbog. Duff house, the
mansion of the Earl of Fife, is a noble edifice in the
Roman style; and contains some fine paintings. See
article Duff House. The old castle of Inchdrewer,
about 4 miles south-west of the town, is still entire.
It is only remarkable as having been the scene of
Lord Banff's death, under very suspicious circum-
stances, in 1713. Banff castle, in the environs of the
town of Banff, has descended to the Earl of Seafield.
It was the family-seat and birth-place of James
Sharp, archbishop of St. Andrews, who was born in
1613. The Bairds of Auchmedilen in this parish
are a very ancient family. Of this family are de-
scended the Bairds of Newbyth in East Lothian ; and
of the same family it is asserted, in Rose of Mount-
coffer's manuscripts, — but with little probability we
think,— was the celebrated Boyardo, the author of
the ' Orlando Innamorata.' Population, in 1801,
3,572; in 1831, 3,711, of whom 2,935 were in the
town of Banff. Houses 670, of which 498 were
in the town. Valued rent of the landward part of
the parish £2,313 Scots. Real rental in 1798, in-
cluding the salmon-fishings, and town lands, £4,500.
— The parish of Banff is in the synod of Aber-
deen, and presbjtery of Fordyce. It was united
with Inverboyndie till 1634. Patron, the Earl of
Seafield. Minister's stipend £245 19s. 9d., uitha
glebe of the value of £35. Unappropriated teinds
£280 3s. 3d. Church built in 1790, at a cost of
£1,961; sittings 1,300. The upper district of the
parish is under the charge of a missionary who
officiates at Ord chapel, distant about 5 miles from
Banff. See Orb. The parish-minister reckoned
3,050 adherents of the established church in this
parish in 1837, and 610 dissenters — There are several
dissenting places of worship in the town of Banff,
but their statistics will be here given. A Scottish
Episcopal church has existed here since the abolition
of Episcopacy in Scotland. Chapel built in 1833-4.
Cost £1,000. Sittings 356. Salary from £110 to
i'115 .A United Secession congregation was estab-
lished in 1822. Chapel built in 1823, at an expense
of £800. Sittings 490. Stipend £100.— An Inde-
pendent church v\as formed in 1808. Chapel built
in 1834, at an expense of £500. Sittings 400. Sti-
f Always pronounced Bamft'.
BANFF.
103
penil £60, with a manse and garden — A Wesleyan
Methodist congregation was formed in 1767, and a
chapel built in 1818. Cost £300; sittings 300.
Salary £50. — There is also a Roman Catholic con-
gregation which assembles in the upper story of a
bouse in the town, their own property. Sittings 1 10.
The priest officiates alternately at Portsayand Banff.
— There is no legally established parochial school ;
but the rector of the grammar-school in Banff,
founded in 1786, receives the parochial salarv. This
school was attended by about 180 children in 1834.
And there were also at that date 15 private schools,
within the bounds of the parish, attended by above
500 children.
The royal burgh of Basff is situated in the north-
east corner of the parish, on the peninsula formed by
the influx of the Deveron into the Moray frith. It
was a part of the ancient thanedom of Boin, whence
the name seems to be derived. In some old charters
it is spelled Boineffe and Baineffe. The district of
Boin has probably received its name from a con-
spicuous mountain in the neighbourhood of Cullen,
called the Binn. On the south side of this hill, at
Darbrich, the forester had his dwelling; and it is
well known that the forestry and thanedom terri-
tory extended thence to the borough-lands of Banff,
divided only by the water of Boyndie. The town
occupies a fine declivity opening to the east and
south-east, and commanding a charming prospect.
Tradition has assigned a very early origin to Banff as
a royal burgh. In 1165, William the Lion gave a
toft and garden in this burgh to the Bishop of Moray;
and Robert L confirmed its privileges. But the
earliest charter extant is one of Robert II., dated
October 7, 137- ; and the governing charter is one
of James VI., dated May 9, 1581, which was re-
newed when that sovereign attained the age of 25.
The citadel in ancient times, similar to the castles of
Edinburgh and Stirling, occupied a mount originally
at the end, though now near the middle of the town.
It was a constabulary of the same constitution with
that of Elgin or Nairn : some remains of its ancient
strength, both in the walls and in the moat, may yet
be traced. The lands of Blairshinnoch were bestow-
ed by David Bruce in 1364, for furnishing a soldier
to attend the king in his court apud castrum de
Banffe. Being the seat of justice, it was the resi-
dence of the constable or sheriff, in the absence of the
court. This office, in ancient times hereditary, was
occasionally transferred to different families, and in
16S.3 was purchased by the family of Findlater, by
whom the castle was transformed into a pleasant
residence, fitted up in the modern style.
The town was formerly governed by a provost, 4
baillies, and 12 councillors. It is now governed by a
provost, 4 magistrates, and 17 councillors. Municipal
constituency, in 1838, 133. The territory over which
the jurisdiction of the burgh is exercised extends from
the burn-mouth of Boyndie, across the Gallowhill,
to the Spittal Myre, and thence to the sea at Palmer
cove. Macduff, a burgh of barony, is situate within
"the parliamentary boundaries of Banff; but is al-
together an independent borough. The magistrates
used to claim the right of patronage over the parish
church, but have never shown a title to it. They
nave five mortifications under their management, viz. :
1st, Cassie's bounty, consisting of £10,000, the in-
terest of which is half-yearly distributed among in-
digent persons. 2d, Smith's bounty, which is also
a sum of £10,000, yielding an yearly dividend of
£308 18s. 8d. The objects of this charity are, first,
to pay £25 of additional stipend to the minister of
I'ordyce ; and, secondly, to apply the remainder to
the maintenance and education during five years, of
ooys of the name of Smith, at an yearly allowance of
£2.5 for each. The academy for this purpose is at
Fordyce, and the teacher has a salary of £40, with a
free house, a garden, and about 10 acres of ground.
3d, Perrie's free school, being a mortification of
£1,100 for educating poor children, and from which
a salary of £40 is paid to a schoolmaster, wdio has
also a free house and garden, and from 80 to 90
pupils. 4th, Wilson's charity, consisting of a sum
of between £5,000 and £6,000. 5th, Smith's morti-
fication, being a sum of £1,000 There are in Banff
six incorporated trades. No one can carry on busi-
ness as a merchant without becoming a guild-brother.
The property of the burgh consists of lands and
houses, salmon-fishings, feu-duties, public buildings,
and markets. The value of the lands, in 1833, was
£2,014 10s. The revenue of the burgh, in 1833,
was £1,304; expenditure £1,836. In 1838-9, the
revenue was £1,172. The total estimated value of
the burgh-property, in 1834, was £22,961. The
total amount of debts, in 1833, was £14,298. In
1763, the debt was only £20 ; although so early as
1470, the burgh was under embarrassments. At that
time it was held by the public functionaries that they
had no power to increase their revenues, except by
leasing their property. The magistrates, therefore,
without fraud, and upon their "great aith, with con-
sent of all and sundry neighbours of Banff," let out
to certain burgesses, for 19 years, the whole salmon
fishings, consisting of 12 nets, for the "infefting and
foundation makkin of a perpetual chaplenary, to sing
in the peil heife * of the burgh, for our sovereign
lord the king and queen, their predecessors and suc-
cessors,— for all Christians soules, — for the theiking
of the kirk with sclate, and the Digging of the tol-
buthe, — and for quhat the burgh has not substance."
It is believed that similar leases were granted until
1581, when there was obtained the charter, formerly re-
ferred to, giving power to feu to the resident burgesses
and their heirs male. In 1595 the provost, bailies,
and certain other persons, were appointed commis-
sioners to carry the power into execution. The in-
structions to them bear that, " because of the warres
and troubles, the darth of the country and scantiness
of victual, with exorbitant stents and taxations for
supporting the warres, the public warkes, and up-
hading of the kirk, tolbuthe, and calsies, &c. ; for
remeid whereof this empowers to set, sell, and few
the common land and salmon fishings of the burgh to
merchant burgers and actual residenters." By virtue
of these powers these commissioners did alienate, for
a small feu-duty, the greater part of the burgal-lands
and salmon-fishings. The limitation in the charter,
that the alienations should be made only to resident
burgesses, and their heirs male, either never had been
in observance, or quickly fell into disuse. Nor does
the forfeiture emerging if a burgess should alienate
to other than to a resident burgess, appear to have
been operative. The greater part of the property
was acquired by neighbouring proprietors, including
the families of Fife, Findlater, and Banff. The last
alienation of any importance, which has been traced,
was in 1783, when the provost purchased about 20
acres of the burgh-lands, for 20 years' purchase of a
feu-duty of Is. 6d. per acre. It constitutes a whole-
some feature in the municipal arrangements of Banff
that the cess and other public burdens and taxations
are levied annually by a Head court — as it is called —
consisting of all the heritors and burgesses within
burgh. — Banff unites with Elgin, Cullen, Inverury,
Peterhead, Macduff, and Kintore in returning a mem-
ber to parliament. The parliamentary constituency,
in 1839, was 203. The parliamentary borough boun-
* Tlie Pool-h.iveo, where formerly boats and small craft were
moored. It is now the buryillg-gruuud.
104
BANFF.
daries extend from the Little Tumbler rocks on the
shore to the westward of Banff, and the mineral well
of Tarlair to the eastward of Portsoy, so as to in-
clude the recently erected town of Macduff.
The town of Banff comprises several well-built
streets. The church, and the town-house, are each
handsome structures ; and there are several very sub-
stantial private hou.-es, — the town being, to a con-
siderable extent, a place of resort for genteel families
of small private fortune, being deemed the most
fashionable town north of Aberdeen. The town is
usually described as consisting of two parts,. — the
upper and the lower town, — or the town, and the
sea-town. Between these, on an elevated piece of
ground, stands the castle. The harbour, which lies
to the north of the town, on the west side of the
bay, is neither commodious nor good, owing to the
continual shitting of the banks at the mouth of the
river; that of Macduff, at the opposite extremity of
the bay, is much the better of the two. In 1616,
about £18,000 were spent in improvements on the
harbour, and a vessel drawing 12 feet can enter the
new basin at ordinary high water. There is little
trade and no manufactures in the town; there is
an extensive distillery in the neighbourhood; the
fisheries are extensive, and there is a large annual
export of fish from the port of Banff. The Deveron
salmon-fishings are rented at about ,£1,800, and the
tish caught at them are principally sent to the Lon-
don market. In 1831, 1,759 barrels of herrings were
cured here; in 1835, 631 barrels. These are ex-
ported to London, Ireland, and Germany. Live
cattle, and grain, are also exported to London. The
port of Banff includes the creeks of Fraserburgh,
Gardenstown, Macduff, Portsoy, Port-Gordon, and
Garmouth. The registered tonnage and shipping
belonging to the port, in 1834, was b7 vessels of an
aggregate tonnage of 4,301 tons. The amount of
customs' duty collected at the port, in 1835, was
£1,112; in 1837, £1,164. Tbe town was first
lighted with gas in 1831. There is a good suite of
public baths; and a very commodious market built
m 1830. There are four yearly fairs, of which the
Brandon or Whitsunday lair is the largest. Tbe
others are held on January 7th, the 1st Tuesday in
February, O. S. ; the 1st Friday in August, O. S. ;
and the Friday before the 22d of November. The
Commercial bank of Scotland, and the National Bank,
have branches in this town. A Savings bank was
instituted in 1815.
Banff is 165 miles north-east of Edinburgh; 80
east of Inverness; 7 cast of Portsoy ; 45£ north-west
of Aberdeen ; and 22 west of Fraserburgh. The road
from Aberdeen approaches the town by a handsome
bridge of 7 arches, which crosses the Deveron about
650 yards above its mouth, and about 2 miles below
the bridge of Alvah ; immediately below the line
policies of Duff house. During the great floods of
1829, these parks were laid under water to the depth
of 14 feet, the whole of the lower streets in the town
completely inundated, and the bridge itself in great
danger ot being swept away. The former bridge
was swept away by a flood in 1768. Banff gives the
title of Baron to the Ogilvie family. — We shall bring
this article to a close with a few historical memor-
anda. In 1644, the lairds of Gight, Newton, and
Ardlogie, with a party of 40 horse, and musketeers,
all, in the language of Spalding, " brave gentlemen,"
made a raid upon the good town of Banff, and plun-
dered it of buff-coats, pikes, swords, carabines, pis-
tols, " yea, and money also," grievously amercing the
baillies, and compelling them to subscribe a re-
nunciation of the Covenant. In 1645, Montrose,
following the example so recently set him by his ad-
herents, inarched into Banff, plundered the same
" pitifully," carried off all goods and gear on which
he could lay his hands, burnt some worthless houses,
and left "no man on the street but was stripped
naked to his skin !" — On the 7th of November, 1700,
the famous James Macpherson, with some asso-
ciates, was brought to trial before the sheriff ot
Banff, and being found guilty " by ane verdict of
aue assyse, to be knaive, holden and repute, to be
Egyptians and vagabonds, and oppressors of his
majesty's free lieges in ane bangstne manner," were
condemned to be executed on Friday the 16th of the
same month of November. The sentence was carried
into execution against Macpherson only. He was a
celebrated violin player, anu, it is affirmed, performed
at the foot of the gallows, on his favourite instru-
ment, the rant which bears his name, besides reciting
several rude stanzas by way of a last speech and con-
fession.*— On the 10th of November, 1746, the duke
of Cumberland's troops passed through Banff on their
way to Culloden, and signalized themselves by de-
stroying the Episcopal chapel, and hanging a poor
countryman whom they suspected of being a spy.
In 1759, a French vessel of war appearing off the
coast threw the worthy burghers into no small con-
sternation, and suggested the expedi-ency of erecting
a battery for the luture protection of the harbour.
The following curious comparative notices are from
the Old Statistical account of Banff, [vol. xx. pp.
363 — 365.] drawn up by the Rev. Abercromby Gor-
don in 1798: —
1743.
A gown of linsey-woolsey
was tite usual dress uf a laird's
daughter,
Veii'd in a simple robe, her best at-
tire,
Beyond the pomp of dress.
THOMSON.
Her mother, indeed — who was
dignified with the knightly
title of lady — appeared uu
great occasions in a silk gown,
and tine laces, which were con-
sidered as part of the parapher-
nalia destined to the succeed-
ing generatiuii. Ladies sel.
duin wore any uther than
coloured stockings. The town
could only hnast of one silken
pair, and these were black.
The occupation of milliner was
totally unknown.
1748. A four-wheeled car-
riage was a luxury seidom en-
joyed, unless by tne nubility.
A gentleman and his wife
generally rude together on the
same horse. Drawing-rooms
and diunig-parluurs were uu
I.' - rare man carriages. Ma-
hogany was seldum oeen, save
in the tea-iray, the round fold-
ing table, and the corner cup-
board.
1743. When wants were
fewer, and easily supplied,
most uf the useful articles uf
merchandise might be procur-
ed in the same shop. The va-
rious designations of grocer,
iron-monger, and haberdasher,
were little knuwn, and almost
every trader, even although he
did not traffic to foreign coun-
tries, was denominated mer-
chant.
1798.
The decoration of our per-
Bons is now become a more
general study among both
sexes, and all ranks. In order
to accummudate their dre;«s to
the capricious rules uf fashion,
there is a frequent, and some
times a needless, recuurse tu
the "foreign aid of ornament.'1
'the art ninliuery affords em-
ployment and profit to many ,
and every trading vessel Irom
London brings a fresh abut-
ment of di eases, adjusted to
the prevailing mode.
1798. Post-chai3e9 are now
in general use. Several pri-
vate gentlemen keep their
carriages. The pad is become
the exclusive property ul the
country good-wile. 1 he min-
ister ot tne parish must have
his drawing-ruom. Mahugany
is a species uf timber in geu-
eral use fur articles ot furni-
ture ; and the corner press is
superseded by the splendid
side- board.
1798. The several distinc-
tions of tradesmen are better
understood. As ministers to
uur luxury, we have in the
same street an oil man, who
advertises the sale ot Quiii
sauce, Genoa capers, and liur.
goua anchovies, Sic. j a con-
fectioner, whose bills contain
thu delectable names of non-
pareils, ice-cream, and apricot
jelly, &c. ; and a perfumer,
who deals in such rare articles,
as Neapolitan cream for the
face, Persian dentiirice fur the
teem, aud Asiatic balsam fur
the hair.
* The curious reader will find a full notice of this wild out-
law, in Motherwell's Notes to * MacpherBun's Farewell,' in the
2d vol. of Burns' Works,* p. 178j and some additional details
tu the New Statistical account ot the parish of Hautf.
BANFFSHIRE.
105
7-1S. A joyous company,
after dinner, have been seen
quaffing the wine of a dozen
bottles from a single glass.
17+S. Agreeable to Queen
Mary's act of parliament, a.u.
156 i, all butcher-meat was
carried to market nkin and
birn, and, agreeable to cus-
tom, was sold amidst abound-
ing filth.
1748. The annual wages of
a great man's butler was about
£S; his valet, £5; and his
other servants £3. The far-
mer had his ploughman for
]3s. 4-d. in the half-year, with
the allowance of a pair unites.
The wages of a in aid- servant,
6s. 8d.
1773. When Dr. Johnson
honoured Banff with a visit,
he was pleased to observe,
that the natives were more
frugal of their glass, (Id win-
dows,) th;in the English.
They will ..ften, says the Doc-
tor, "in hou-es not otherwise
mean, compose a square of
two pieces, not joining like
cracked glass, but with one
edge laid perhaps half an inch
over the other. Their win-
dows do not move upon
hinges, but are pushed up and
drawn down in grooves. He
that would have his window
open, must Imld it with his
iiand, unless— what may some-
times be found among good
contrivers — there be a nail,
which lie may stick into a hole,
to keep it from falling."
1798. A sober party some-
times meet, whose libation
consists of a solitary bottle,
with a dozen glasses.
1798. There are convenient
slau»hter-houses apart, and
meat is brought to market
seemly and iu good urder
1798. The nobleman pays at
least in a quadruple ratio for
his servants. The wages of a
ploughman vary from £10 to
£12, and of a maid-servant
from £3 to £3 10-u per annum.
£ These wages were nearly the
same in 1840^
1799. Many of our window's
are furnished with weights and
pullies. We think of the ne-
cessity of ventilating human
habitation^, where we may
enjoy the luxury of fresh air,
without resorting to the con-
trivance of a nail, and with
very little assistance from the
hand.
Comparative Statement of the Prices of Cattle,
Sheep, Provisions, &c.f at the above periods, and
in 1840:—
. £1
1749.
A draught <
13s. 4d.
20 sheep, smallsize,
£4
Beef and mutton,
id. and l£d a
pound.
A hen, together
with a dozen
eggs, 4d.
Dozen eggs, Id.
<"Joose, 2s. a pair.
Turkey, 3s. ditto.
Pigeons, three half-
pence ditto.
H Haddocks, three
halfpence.
Claret sold at Is. a
bottle.
1798. 1810.
£15, £->0, and£S3. £1G to £18.
£12
£16 to £20.
Beef and mutton, Gd. per lb.
>'','■!, and '.-J. per
lb.
Hen, without eggs, Is,
Is. and Is. 3d.
4d. and Gd.
5s. 6d.
6d.
Is. 6d.
6d. per doz.
Cs. per pair.
7s. per do.
Gd.
Is. 3d.
Claret sells in the 9s.
tavern at 6s.
BANFFSHIRE, one of the north-east counties ot
Scotland ; bounded on the north by the Moray frith
or the German ocean; on the east and south by
Aberdeenshire ; and on the west by the shires of
Inverness and Elgin. This county, according to Mr.
Souter in his * Agricultural Survey of Banffshire,'
published in 1812 — which we principally follow in
this article — might be comprehended in an isosce-
les triangle, on a base ot 30 miles along the coast
from Troup-head, on the border of Aberdeen-
shire, to the influx of the Spey, on the confines of
Moray; its height being 64 miles inland from the
shore. Measured on the latest and most accurate
maps, the distance in a direct line between the two
extreme points on the coast, is 34 miles; and from
Troup, in a direct line running south-west to Ben
Macdhu, or to Cairngorm, both in the south-west
corner of the county, at the head of Glen-Aven, 67
miles. At the average distance of 12 miles from the
coast, however, it is contracted by the county of
Aberdeen on the east, and by part of Moray on the
west, in the parish of Keith, to a breadth of only 4
Ernies ; so that, in its general form, it has been thought
to bear some resemblance to an hour-glass. Making
the proper deduction on this account, its surface is,
according to Mr. Souter, 622 square miles, or 315,600
acres Scots computation. By another admeasure-
ment its superficies is estimated at 647 square miles,
or 412,800 English acres. The course of the De-
veron, in general, is accounted the boundary of
Banffshire with Aberdeenshire ; yet the parish of
Gamrie, on the shore, and part of the parish of In-
verkeithnie, which is in the interior of the county,
are on the Aberdeenshire side of that river; while
the greater part of the parishes of Cairney, Glass,
and Cabrach, politically in the county of Aberdeen,
are on the Banffshire side. Kirkmiehael, the most
upland district of the county, is bounded by the
mountains which rise on the southern sides of Glen-
bucket and Strathdon. Similar to the Deveron on
the east, the river Spey may, with little impropri-
ety, be deemed the general boundary on the west;
although the county of Moray also extends in various
places across that river into the parishes of Bellie,
Keith, Boharm, and Inveraven. The principal rivers
are the Deveron. the Spey, the Aven, and the
Fiddich. See these articles. The principal lochs
are Loch Aven and Loch Bdilg: which also see.
The great mountain-knot in the south-west corner
of this county, at the point where the counties of
Inverness, Banff, and Aberdeen meet, and composed
of Cairngorm, Ben Buinac, Ben Macdhu, and Ben
Aven, all surrounding Loch Aven, belongs to the
Northern Grampians, and forms the highest laud in.
Great Britain. Of these Ben Macdhu, on the south
side of Loch Aven, in N. lat. 57° 6', and \V. long.
3° 37', is in Aberdeenshire, and its altitude, accord-
ing to a recent admeasurement, is 4,390 feet, being
17 feet higher than Ben Nevis. Cairngorm, which
is common to Inverness-shire and Banffshire, has an
elevation of 4,095 feet, and Ben Aven, common to
Aberdeenshire and Banffshire, has an elevation of
3,967 feet. Among the detached summits of the
Grampians which entirely belong to Banffshire, are,
Ben Rinnes, 15 miles S. W. by W. of Keith, 2,747 feet.
Corryhabbies, i>. E. of Ben Rmnes, 2,558 —
Knock-hill, 12 miles S. W. uf Banff, U,50i> —
This county along the coast has, from remote an-
tiquity, been divided into two districts. Between
the towns of Banff and Cullen, the Boyne is the
general name borne by the district; the tract be-
tween Cullen and the environs of Gordon castle is
distinguished by the appellation of the Enzie.* The
parish of St. Fergus, part of Old Deer, half of Gart-
ly, and the estate of Straloch in New Machar, ap-
pertain to the county of Banff, although in distant
and unconnected quarters of Aberdeenshire. These
detached pertinents, in what relates to civil justice,
are, by a particular provision of the legislature, under
the jurisdiction of the sheriff of Aberdeen.
" From the nature of the soil," says the first agri-
cultural reporter, " as well as from its generally ex-
posed situation, and the great height of many of the
mountains, this district is often subjected to all the
evils of a cold and rainy climate. The harvests,
which are precarious and often interrupted, are rarely
completed before the end of October. The crops,
in the more upland parts of the county, are for the
most part damaged by rains, which about that season
often set in for weeks together, and are frequently
succeeded, without any interval of good weather, by
frosts and deep falls of snow, which often suspend
the operations of husbandry for many of the winter-
months." In the years 1782 and 1787 the harvest
was scarcely completed in less than three months;
* Though the z has always maintained it* place in the ortho-
graphy of this word, it has iu the pronunciation obtained the
sound of tiff.— Souter.
106
BANFFSHIRE.
and in some parts of the interior the crop lay uncut
during the whole winter. It is, however, a curious
fact, that in 1782 the parish of Rathven, in the
Enzie, had the good fortune to escape the general
calamity: scarcely had they ever a better crop, or
more grain to spare.
The whole of Banffshire, except the tract along
the sea-shore, may be described as a hilly mountain-
ous country, interspersed with fertile valleys well
adapted to the cultivation of corn and grass. The
hills, either covered with heath or moss, afford little
pasture; while, from their bleak and barren aspect,
they have a very gloomy and unpleasant appearance.
The arable land — which bears but a small proportion
to the waste — lies on the sides and towards the bot-
toms of the higher hills, or on the sides of those
valleys through which the waters have their courses.
In several of these valleys, where cultivation has
hitherto been found impracticable, there isabundaine
of tine healthy pasture, on which young cattle are
raised to great advantage, the grounds being in gen-
eral well-sheltered with natural woods. Taking a
general view of the whole district, the arable soil
may be described as of three qualities. That of the
plains on the banks of the waters, where it has not
been mixed with the sand by the washings of the
streams, is a stiff deep clay ; on the sides of the
valleys it is a deep black loam on a bed of rock,
generally limestone; on the sides of the hills, and in
the higher parts of the country, where cultivation
has taken place, the soil is either of the same quality
as that last described, or a mixture of moss am!
gravel on a red t illy bottom, and — as may be sup-
posed— very retentive of water. Along the whole
coast, consisting of the parishes of Gamrie, Banff,
Boyndie, Fordyce, Cullen, Rathven, and Bellie,
the soil consists for the greater part of sand and
loam, the latter by far the more predominant; and
in general lies upon a freer bottom. The aggre-
gate rental of the county, presuming that the aver-
age rent of the arable acre did not, on the whole,
exceed £1, limited the number of arable acres, in
1811, to 80,000: thus leaving an amount of unculti-
vated surface equal to 236,000 acres. The quantity
of arable land now, however, greatly exceeds that in
1811. It is probable that at least 120,000 acres are
now under cultivation, and that not above 80,000 are
incapable of cultivation.*
In a general view the county of Banff may be de-
nominated a land of limestone, which, although it is
not found in one continuous bed, over any extensive
• tract in the county, yet may be easily traced in almost
every quarter of it. This fossil is extended through
the district of Strathspey, where the counties of In-
verness and Moray meet with Banff; and being also
found in Badenoch, farther up the course of the
Spey, may perhaps extend onwards even to the
western shore. It may be also traced southwards
through the higher district of the county of Aber-
deen, in the adjoining parishes of Cabrach, Glen-
bucket, Auchindoir, and Tullynessle. At Portsoy
it passes into marble, or serpentine, which composes
almost entirely the hill of Durn. Marble is also
found in the parishes of Keith and Mortlach. When
first quarried at Portsoy it was exported to France,
where- for some time, it became fashionable ; but
the market being overstocked, a ship-load of it long
lay neglected on the banks of the Seine. It is still
wrought into monuments, chimney-pieces, and toys.
In the Enzie district the calcareous matter, probably
* By another, but evidently most erroneous admeasurement,
Banffshire is represented as '* containing 900 square miles, or
45B, 100 acres; of which the arable land in cultivation may be
Hbnitt 69,900; ditto in ley and summer fallow, 35,000; pasiuro,
40,000; plantations and natural woods, 15,000; hill, muir, and
Uiuss 298,2(10."— Webtter'3 Gazetteer.
from a tinge of iron-ore, is in the form of stone marl,
of a dark red colour. In the upper extremity of the
county, in the parishes of Kirkmichael and Inver-
aven, there are extensive beds of pure white marl.
In Kirkmichael it appears in a white cliff, 40 or 50
feet high, on the bank of the Aven. Except the
red stone of the Enzie already mentioned, there is
no free-stone in this county; but it is in general well
furnished with stone for building. Slate is found
near Letterfourie, in the parish of Rathven ; near
the Boat-of-Bridge, in the parish of Bohann ; and
in several other places. Flints have been found
along the shore of Boyndie bay. " Some years ago,"
says Professor Jamieson, " while examining the
geognosy of the vicinity of Peterhead, our attention
was directed to the chalk-flints found in that neigh-
bourhood, by previous information. We traced them
extending over several miles of country, and fre-
quently imbedded in a reddish clay, resting on the
granite of the district. These flints contain sponges,
alcyonia, echini, and other fossils of the chalk-flint,
thus proving them to belong to the chalk formation,
which itself will probably be found in some of the
hollows in this part of Scotland." In the course of
the Fiddich a laminated marble is found which may
be formed into whetstones and hones. Scotch to-
pazes, or what are commonly called Cairngorm
stones, are found in the mountains in the south-
western extremity of Banffshire, bordering with
those in Aberdeen and Inverness-shires; and also
on several other adjoining mountains, in the forest
of Mar. The stones are found near the top of these
mountains.*
It does not appear, that previous to the year
1748, any material improvements in agriculture were
introduced into this district. In those days the
mode of management was the same here as was
then universally practised over all the north of
Scotland. The arable lands on every farm were
divided into what was called outfield and infield. To
the infield — which consisted of that part of the farm
nearest to the farm-houses — the whole manure was
regularly applied. The only crops cultivated on the
infield land were oats, beer, and pease ; the lands
were kept under tillage as long as they would pro-
duce two or three returns of the seed sown; and
when a field became so reduced and so full of weeds
as not to yield this return, it was allowed to lie in
natural pasture for a few years, after which, it was
again brought under cultivation, and treated in the
manner before-mentioned. The outfield lauds were
wasted by a succession of oats after oats as long as
the crops would pay for seed and labour ; they were
* " Till within these few years, they were considered of so
trifling value as to be little sought after, the digging for them
now affords employment for a considerable number of people,
whose families, during the summer-months, reside day and
night in these mountains ; and as all the stones of any value
that were to he found above ground, or near the surface, are
long since picked up, they now dig to the depth of from one to
four feet. In many places several acres are ransacked in quest
of them. In some places they are found growing out or the
rocks, where the access is so difficult that the searchers can
only come at them suspended in ropes from the top of the
mountains. Sometimes they dig for several days without find-
ing any ; but at other times hud an ample recompense lor that
loss of labour, by rinding them to the value of from £^0 to £50,
nay, sometimes to the value of £'^00 in one day. Last summer
it was computed that not less than £2,000 worth had been found
in these mountains. Some go as far as Edinburgh, and even
London, to sell them ; and lapidaries from these cities come to
the country in summer for the purpose of purchasing, some of
whom hire labourers to dig for them at the rate of from o*. to
10s. per day. The stones are all hexagonal. One end is like a
diamond ; the other end is, or has been, fastened to the granite
rock, from which Ihey seem to have been disjoined by some
convulsion in Nature ; as some of them are found broken, the
one half several yards distant from the other, and, wiu.t is
more remarkable, three or four feet deeper in the rock, and
corresponding bo exactly that no doubt can be entertained of
their having been united at some former periodi'.'— Agricul-
tural Iteiiort of 1812.
BANFFSHIRE.
107
then allowed to remain in a state of absolute steril-
ity, producing little else than thistles and other
weeds; till, after having rested in this state for
some years, the farmer thought proper to bring
them again under cultivation, when, from the mode
of management before described, a few scanty crops
were obtained. About this time, it was a common
practice for the farmers to lime their outfield-ground
substantially after this kind of rest, and then to
crop it as long as it would bear, oats after oats,
without any intermission. Only oxen ploughs were
used ; and when the seed-time was over, the cattle
were either sold to dealers, or sent to the high lands,
where they were grazed for three or four months at
the rate of Is. or Is. 6d. each. During this period
the plough was laid aside, and the farm-servants and
horses were employed in providing the necessary
stock of fuel, and collecting earth to be mixed with
the dung produced by the cattle during the preceding
winter. About the year 1754, the earl of Findlater,
then Lord Deskford, came to reside in the neighbour-
hood of Banff; and having taken one of his farms into
his own possession, set about cultivating it in the
most approved manner then known in England; and,
for that purpose, engaged three experienced over-
seers from that kingdom. His lordship also selected
some of the most intelligent, active, and substantial
tenants in the country, to whom he granted leases
on reasonable terms, for two nineteen years, and a
lifetime, of farms formerly occupied by three or four
tenants. By these leases each tenant became bound
to enclose and subdivide a certain portion of his farm
with stone-fences, or ditch and hedge, during the first
nineteen years of the lease, and, in the course of the
second nineteen years, to enclose the remainder.
They were also bound to summer fallow and sow
grass-seeds on a certain number of acres within the
first five years of the lease. His lordship was also
the first that introduced the turnip-husbandry, and
by his example, as well as precept, during his fre-
quent excursions among his tenants, was the means
of bringing the cultivation of that crop, as well as
other green crops, by degrees, into general practice.
Agriculture is now conducted on the best principles
in Banffshire. A regular rotation of cropping is
followed; wheat is extensively grown in the lower
districts ; and the cattle and stock are of the most
approved breeds. The average rent of land is 22s.
per acre. In 1667, the rent-roll of the county of
Banff amounted to £80,468 of Scots currency,
equal to £6,705 13s. 4d. sterling. This amount,
upon the average, is now apparently increased about
twenty-fold. The value of real property in this
county, as assessed in 1815, was £88,942 ; the pre-
sent rental is about £120,000. The ancient rent-
roll, called 'the valued rent,' was, in 1811, shared
among 39 proprietors, in the following proportions:
3 of whom possess from f 17,939 2s. 6d. to
£11.565 13s. 4d., amounting to . . £46,159 13 1
Wliicli amount may be at present esti-
mated about . . £46,160 iter.
5 possess from £3,699 17s. lOd.
to£2,163 4s. 2d. amounting to 13,800 16 8
Which amount may be at
present estimated about 14,000
10 possess from £1,700 to £1,060,
amounting to ... 13,544 8 4
Whicll amount may be at
present estimated about 13.400
14 possess from £800 to .£'-'00,
amounting to . . 6,277 17 1
Which amount may be at
present estimated about 6,200
7 possess from £140 to £61 4s.
6d. , amounting to . . 685 5 9
Which amount may be at
present estimated about 700
S9 £80,460 £80,463 0 11
The lowest denomination of land in Banffshire is
the fall, consisting of 36 square yards. Previous to
the late equalization of weights and measures, the
firlot contained 31 pints, each 6 per cent above
the standard. A quarter of grain by the Banffshire
old wheat-firlot is nearly 3 pecks more than a quar-
ter by the Winchester bushel. The boll of barley
was 17 stones, or 17i stones ; and of potatoes, 36
stones. The potato-peck was 32 lbs. Four gills,
or two English pints, make a Banffshire choppin;
and two Banffshire pints are about one-tenth part
less than an English gallon. Wool was sold in
market by the Banffshire pound, which was eight
ounces more than the English pound. Butter,
cheese, and hay, were also sold by the same pound
weight of 24 ounces ; but meal and butcher's meat
were sold by a pound which was only one and a half
ounce more than the English pound. In the higher
part of the district, about Keith, a stone of wool
was two pounds more than about the town of Banff
and along the coast.
The principal productions of this county are cattle,
corn, and fish. The cattle are bought up by the
dealers, from the 1st of May to the end of Novem-
ber, and sent off in droves to the southern districts.
The com and fish are exported by sea. There were
55,000 quarters of grain exported for the London
market from this county in 1831. There are in this
county ten fishing-towns, which employ from 100 to
120 boats. The fish which visit the shores are cod,
ling, haddock, skate, whitings, holybut, dog-fish, and
occasionally turbot and mackerel. The herrings
caught on this coast, in 1826, produced about
£100,000. The salmon-fishery on the Spey, for
the distance of 8 miles from the mouth of the river,
has been acquired by the family of Gordon; and as
the fishing-quarters are now established on the Banff-
shire side of the river, the whole of the duke of
Gordon's salmon-fishery, now let at the yearly rent
of £8,000, may be stated as among the produce of
this county. The salmon-fishing on the Deveron,
of which the earl of Fife is the principal proprietor,
his right extending from the sea about 3^ miles up
the river, is now let at a yearly rent of about £2,000
sterling. There are from 160 to 190 men usually
employed by the tacksmen of these fishings in the
different departments of the work. The staple
manufactures of this county are those of linen-) arn
and linen-cloth, which at one time were carried on
to a very considerable extent at Banff, Cullen, Keith,
and Portsoy, and gave employment to a great num-
ber of men and women in the different operations of
heckling, spinning, weaving, and bleaching. There
were likewise at Banff and Portsoy very extensive
manufactures of stocking-threads, which were chiefly
sent to Nottingham and Leicester. There are several
tan-works and some extensive distilleries in the coun-
ty. The principal proprietors are the duke of Gordon,
the earl of Seafield, and the earl of Fife. Tne
population, in 1755, was 37,574; in 1801,35,807;
and in 1831, 48,604. The number of families, in
1831, was 10,855; of inhabited houses, 9,814. Of
families engaged in agriculture, 4,264 ; of families
engaged in trade, manufactures, handicraft, 2,456.
The number of hands employed in retail trade, or in
handicraft, in 1831, was 2,643; of whom 401 were
shoemakers; 391 carpenters; 320 masons; 197 black-
smiths; 181 tailors; and 131 coopers. The parlia-
mentary constituency, in 1839, was 717. — Banff is
the county-town; small debt courts, under the new
act, are held at Keith, Cullen, and Dufftown. —
There are 24 parishes in Banffshire. The number
of parochial schools, in 1834, was 25, under 29 in-
structors, and attended by 1,774 pupils. The num-
ber of schools not parochial was 125, under 131 in-
structors, and attended by 3,913 children. James
BAN
108
BAN
Dick, Esq. of London, at his death in 1S27, be-
queathed .£130,000 to the parochial schoolmasters in
the counties of Banff, Elgin, and Aberdeen. The
interest of this fund, it is expected, will afford an
average of £25 per annum to all the members of
this most useful body in these three counties.
BANGOUR, an estate in the parish of Uphall, in
Linlithgowshire, which has been for many genera-
tions the residence of the Hamiltons of that Ilk, one
of whom, William, second son of James Hamilton of
Bangour, holds an honourable name in Scottish song.
He was born in 1704. He engaged in the Rebellion
of 1745, and celebrated the victory won by Charles's
arms on the 21st September, 1745, by an ' Ode on
the Battle of Gladsmuir.' After the defeat at Cul-
loden, he escaped to France ; but he was enabled, in
1749, to make his peace with government, and re-
turn to his native country. He again went abroad
on account of his health, and died at Lyons, in 1754.
His poems were collected and published in 1748,
and again in 1760. They are inserted in the 9th
vol. of Anderson's ' British Poets,' and in the 15th
of Chalmers's ' English Poets.' An accurate list of
all his pieces, published and unpublished, with an
engraving Irorn an original portrait, is itiserted in the
3d vol. of the ' Archieologia Scotica,' pp. 255—266.
His finest effusion is the exquisite ballad, ' The
Braes of Yarrow,' founded on an ancient ballad called
' The Dowie dens of Yarrow,' and commencing, —
" Bosk ye, busk yp, my bonny bnnny bride!
Busk ye, busk ye, my winsome marrow!
Busk ye, busk ye, my bonnie, bonnie bride,
And tliink nae mair of tile Braes of Yarrow !
Where pat ye that bonnie, bonnie bride ?
Where gat ye that winsome marrow ?
I gat her wbere I daurna well be seen,
Puing the birks on the Braes of Yarrow."
This ballad first appeared in the ' Orpheus Cale-
donius,' in 1725.
BANKTON, the seat of the gallant Colonel
Gardiner, who fell at the battle of Prestonpans — or
Gladsmuir, as it is sometimes called — in 1745, in the
parish of Prestonpans, and shire of Haddington, 1
mile north-west of Tranent. It was afterwards the
seat of Andrew Macdowall, Esq., advocate, who, on
his promotion to the bench, took the title of Lord
Bankton from it.
BANNOCKBURN, a village in the parish of St.
Ninian's, in Stirlingshire, on the road from Stirling
to Falkirk, 2 miles south-east of Stirling, and 9
north-west of Falkirk, between St. Ninian's and
Torwood. It is intersected by the Bannock, which
divides it into two parts, known as Upper and Lower
Bannockburn, of which that on the eastern side of
the stream is the larger. It is an industrious, thriv-
ing village. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in
the woollen manufacture, especially in that of tar-
tans. The Bannock rises in Loch Coulter, on the
south side of the Gillies hill, and flows in a winding
course, between steep and rugged banks, eastwards
to Milton, passing to the south of Greysteal farm-
house, where the bank has a steep southern declivity,
and to the south of Caldam-hill, between which
eminence and the town are two morasses, one on
each side of the old Kilsyth road. At Milton, or
Milntown, on the road from St. Ninian's to Glasgow,
the Bannock turns towards the north-east, winding
in that direction, through a deep and rugged valley,
to the village of Bannockburn, and, after a course of
a few miles, falls into the Forth at a place called
Manor, opposite Black Grange.
The famous and decisive battle of Bannockburn
was fought in the neighbourhood of this village, on
Monday, June 24th, 1314. The Scottish army under
The Bruce, and mustering 30,000 disciplined men,
and about half that number of disorderly attendants,
first rendezvoused at the Torwood, between Falkirk
and Stirling. The English army, commanded by
Edward II. in person, and reported to have been in
the proportion of at least three to one to that ot
the Scotch, approached from the side of Falkirk,
and encamped on the north of Torwood. The
Scottish army, meanwhile, drew nearer Stirling,
and posted themselves behind the Bannock. They
occupied several small eminences upon the south and
west of the present village of St. Ninian's; their line
extending in a north-easterly direction from the brook
of Bannock, on which their right flank rested, to the
elevated ground above St. Ninian's, on which their
extreme left rested. Upon the summit of one of
these eminences, now called Brock's brae, is a large
granite stone sunk in the earth, with a round hole,
about four inches in diameter, and the same in depth,
in which, according to tradition, Bruce's standard was
fixed, and near it the royal pavilion was erected. This
stone is well known in the neighbourhood by the name
of the Bored stone. Thus the two armies lay facing
each other, at a mile's distance, with the Bannock
running in a narrow valley between them. Stirling
castle was still in the hands of the English. Edward
Bruce had, in the preceding spring, besieged it for
several months ; but, finding himself unable to reduce
it, had abandoned the enterprise. By a treaty, how-
ever, between Edward and Philip Moubray the gover-
nor, it had been agreed, that, if the garrison received
no relief from England before St. John the Baptist's
day, they should then surrender to the Scots. Ro-
bert was much dissatisfied with his brother's terms;
but, to save his honour, confirmed the treaty. The
day before the battle, a body of cavalry, to the
number of 800, was detached from the English camp,
under the conduct of Sir Robert Clifford, to the relief
of the castle. These, having marched through low
grounds upon the edge of the carse, had passed the
Scottish army on their left before they were ob-
served. The King himself was among the first- to
perceive them ; and, desiring his nephew, Randolph,
who commanded the left wing, to turn his eyes
towards the quarter where they were making their
appearance, in the crofts north of St. Ninian's, said
to him, angrily, " Thoughtless man ! you have suffer-
ed the enemy to pass. A rose has this day fallen
from your chaplet!" Randolph, feeling the reproof
severely, instantly pursued them with 500 foot ; and,
coming up with them in the plain, where the modern
village of Newhouse stands, commenced a sharp
action in sight of both armies, and of the castle.
Clifford's squadron wheeling round, and placing their
spears in rest, charged the Scots at full speed ; but
Randolph having formed his infantry into a square
with their spears protended on every side, and rest-
ing on the ground, successfully repelled the first
fierce onset, and successive charges equally desperate.
Much valour was displayed on both sides ; and it
was for some time doubtful who should obtain the
victory. Bruce, attended by several of his officers,
beheld this rencounter from a rising ground supposed
to be the round hill immediately west of St. Ninian's, !
now called Cockshot hill. Douglas, perceiving the
jeopardy of his brave friend, asked leave to hasten
with a reinforcement to his support. This the king
at first refused ; but, upon his afterwards consenting,
Douglas put his soldiers in motion. Perceiving, how-
ever, on the way, that Randolph was on the point of
victory, he stopped short, that they who had long
fought so hard might enjoy undivided glory. The
English were entirely defeated with great slaughter.
Among the slain was William Daynecourt, a knight
and commander of great renown, who had fallen in the
beginning of the action. Thelossof the Scotswas very
BANNOCKBURN.
109
inconsiderable ; some assert that it amounted only to a
single yeoman. Randolph and his company, covered
with dust and glory, returned to the camp, amidst
acclamations of joy. To perpetuate the memory of
the victory, two large stones were erected in the
Held — where they are still to be seen — at the north
end of the village of Newhouse, about a quarter of
a mile from the south port of Stirling. Another in-
cident happened, in the same day, which contributed
greatly to inspirit the Scots forces. King Robert,
according to Barbour, was ill mounted, carrying a
battle-axe, and, on his bassinet-helmet, wearing, for
distinction, a crown. Thus externally distinguished,
he was riding upon a little palfrey, in front of his
foremost line, regulating their order ; when an English
knight, who was ranked amongst the bravest in Ed-
ward's army, Sir Henry de Bohun, came galloping
furiously up to him, to engage him in single combat;
expecting, by this act of chivalry, to end the contest,
and gain immortal fame. But the enterprising cham-
pion, having missed his blow, was instantly struck
dead by the king, who raising himself in his stirrups,
as his assailant passed, with one blow of his battle-
axe cleft his head in two, shivering the handle of his
own weapon with the violence of the blow. The
Scottish chiefs remonstrated with their king for
having so rashly exposed his precious life. He felt
the justice of their censures at so critical a junc-
ture, but playfully evaded further confession by
affecting to be chiefly concerned for the loss of his
good battle-axe. The incident is thus recorded by
Barbour: —
" And quhen Glosyster and Herfnrd war
With thair bataiJI, approchand ner,
Befor thaitn all thar come rydand,
With helm on heid, and sper in hand
Schyr Henry the Boune, the worthi,
That wes a wycht Unycht, and a hardy ;
And to the Erie off Herfurd eusyne ;
Armyt in armys gud and fyne;
Come on a sted, a bow schnte ner,
Befor alt othyr that thar wer :
And knew the King, lor that he saw
Him swa rang his men on raw ;
And by the crouue, that wes set
Alsoa apon his bassynet.
And towart him he went in hy.
And [qnhen3 the King sua apertly
Saw him cum, forouth all hid fens,
In hy till him the linrs he steris.
And quhen Schyr Henry saw the King
Cum on, for owtyn abaysiug.
Till him he raid in full gret hy.
He thoucht that he suid Weill lyclitly
Wyn hun, and liaf him at lus will,
Sen he hun horsyt saw sa ill.
tjpreut thai samyn in till a ling.
Schyr Henry ru>ssit the noble king.
Ami lie, that in his sterapys stud,
With the ax that wes hard and gud,
With sa gret mayne raucht him a dynt,
'I hat nothyr hat, na helm, mycht stynt
The hewy dusche that he him gave,
That ner the held till the harnys clave.
The hand ax sehaft fru^chit in twa ;
And he duune to the erd gan ga
All Hatlynys, for him faillyt mycht.
This wes the fryst strak ofi the fycht"
The heroic achievement performed by their king be-
fore their ej es, raised the spirits of the Scots to the
highest pitch.
The day was now far spent, and as Edward did
not seem inclined to press a general engagement, but
bad drawn off to the low grounds to the right and
rear of his original position, the Scots army passed
the night in arms upon the field. Next morning, being
Monday, the 24th of June, all was early in motion on
both sides. Religious sentiments in the Scots were
mingled with military ardour. A solemn mass was
pronounced by Maurice, abbot of Inchaffray ; who also
administered the sacrament to the king, and the great
officers about him, while inferior priests did the same
to the rest of the army. Then, after a sober repast,
they formed in order of battle, in a tract of ground,
now called Nether Touchadam, which lies along the
declivity of a gently rising hill, about a mile due
south from Stirling castle. This situation had been
previously chosen on account of its advantages.
Upon the right, they had a range of steep rocks,
whither the baggage-men had retired, and which,
from this circumstance, has been called Gillie's or
Servant's hill. In their front were the steep banks
of the rivulet of Bannock. Upon the left lay a
morass, now called Milton bog, from its vicinity to the
small village of that name. Much of this bog is still
undrained ; and part of it is now a mill-pond. As it
was then the middle of summer, it was almost quite
dry; but Robert had recourse to a stratagem, to
J prevent any attack from that quarter. He had,
some time before, ordered number of pits to be dug
in the morass and the fields on the left, and covered
with green turf supported by stakes, so as to exhibit
the appearance of firm ground. These pits were a
fout in breadth, and from two to three feet deep,
and placed so close together as to resemble the cells
in a honeycomb. It does not appear, however, that
the English attempted to charge over this dangerous
ground during the conflict, the great struggle being
made considerably to the right of this ground. He
also made calthrops be scattered there ; some of which
have been found in the memory of people yet alive.
By these means, added to the natural strength of the
ground, the Scottish army stood as within an intrench-
ment. Barbour, who lived near those times, mentions
a park with trees, through which the English had to
pass, before they could attack the Scots ; and says,
that Robert chose this situation, that, besides other
advantages, the trees might prove an impediment to
the enemy's cavalry. The improvements of agricul-
ture, and other accidents, have, in the lapse of four
hundred years, much altered the face of this, as well
as other parts of the country : vestiges, however, of
this paik still remain, and numerous stumps of trees are
seen all around the held where the battle was fought.
A farm-house, situated almost in the middle, goes by
the name of the Park ; and a mill built upon the
south bank of the rivulet, nearly opposite to where
the centre of Robert's army stood, is known by the
name of Park-mill. The Scottish army was drawn
| up in four divisions, and their front extended near
a mile in length. The right wing, which was upon
the highest ground, and was strengthened by a body
of cavalry under Keith, Maischal of Scotland, was
commanded by Edward Bruce; the king's brother.
The left was posted on the low grounds, near the
morass, under the direction of Walter, Lord-High-
Steward, and Sir James Douglas, both of whom had
that morning been knighted by their sovereign. Bruce
himself took the command of the reserve, which was
drawn up immediately behind the centre. Along with
him was a body of 500 cavalry well-armed and mount-
ed ; all the rest of the Scottish army were on foot.
The enemy were fast approaching in three great
bodies, led on by the English monarch in person, and
by the earls of Hereford and Gloucester, who were
ranked among the best generals that England could
then produce. Their centre was formed of infantry,
and the wings of cavalry, many of u hom were armed
j cap-a-pee. Squadrons of archers were also planted
j upon the wings, and at certain distances along the
front. Edward was attended by two knignts, Sir
Giles de Argentine, and Sir Aymer de Vallance, who
rode, according to the phrase of these da} s, at his
bridle. That monarch, who had imagined that the
Scots would never face his formidable host, was
much astonished when he beheld their order and
determined resolution to give him battle. As he
expressed his surprise, Sir Ingram Umfravillo took
110
BANNOCKBURN.
the opportunity of suggesting a plan likely to insure
a cheap and bloodless victory. He counselled him
to make a feint of retreating with the whole army,
(ill they had got behind their tents ; and, as this
would tempt the Scots from their ranks for the sake
of plunder, to turn about suddenly, and fall upon
them. The counsel was rejected. Edward thought
there was no need of stratagem to defeat so small a
handful. Among the other occurrences of this
memorable day, historians mention an incident. As
the two armies were on the point of engaging, the
abbot of Inchaffray, barefooted, and with a crucifix
in his hand, walked slowly along the Scottish line ;
when they all fell down upon their knees in the act
of devotion. The enemy, observing them in so un-
common a posture, concluded that they were frighten-
ed into submission, and that, by kneeling, when they
should have been ready to fight, they meant to sur-
render at discretion, and only begged their lives.
"See!" cried Edward, "they are kneeling; they
crave mercy !" " They do, my liege," replied Um-
fraville ; " but it is from God, not from us." " To
the charge, then!" replied Edward; and Gloucester
and Hereford threw themselves impetuously upon
the right wing of the Scots, which received them
firmly ; while Randolph pressed forward with the
centre division of the Scotch army upon the main
body of the English. They rushed furiously upon
the enemy, and met with a warm reception. The
ardour of one of the Scottish divisions had carried
them too far, anil occasioned their being sorely galled
by a body of 10,000 English archers who attacked
them in flank. These, however, were soon dispersed
by Sir Robert Keith, whom the king had despatched
with the reserve of 500 horse, and who, fetching a
circuit round Milton bog, suddenly charged the lelt
flank and rear of the English bowmen, who having no
weapons fit to defend themselves against horse, were
instantly thrown into disorder, and chased from the
field :—
" The Iuglis archeris schot sa fast,
That mycht thair schot haft uny last,
It had been hard to Scottis men.
Bot King Robert, that wele gan ken
That thair archeris war peralouss,
And thair sebot rycht hard and grewouss,
Ordanyt, forouth the assemble,
Hys inarschell with a gret menye,
Fyve hundre armyt in to stele,
That on lycht horss war horsyt welle,
For to pryk ainang the archeris ;
And swa assaile thaim with thair speris,
That thai na layser haift to schute.
This marschell that Ik ol mute,
That Scliyr Robert of Keyth was cauld,
As Ik befor her has yow tauld,
Quhen he saw the bataillis sua
Assembill, and to gidder ga,
And saw the archeris schoyt stoutly ;
With all thaim off his cumpany,
In hy apon thaim gan he rid ;
And our tuk thaim at a sid ;
And ruschyt amang thaim sa rudly,
Stekand thaim sa dispitously,
And in sic fusoun berand doun,
And slayand thaim, for ovvtyn ransoun ;
That thai thaim scalyt euirilkane.
And fra that tyme furth lhar wes nane
That assemhlyt schot to ma.
Quhen Scottis archeris saw that thai sua
War rebutyt, thai woux hardy,
And with all thair mycht schot egrely
Amaug the horss men, that thar raid j
And woundis wid to thaim thai maid ;
Aud slew of thaim a full gret dele."
Barbour's Bruce, Book ix., v. 228.
A strong body of the enemy's cavalry charged the
right wing, which Edward Bruce commanded, with
such irresistible fury, that he had been quite over-
powered, had not Randolph, who appears to have been
then unemployed, hastened to his assistance. The
battle was now at the hottest; and it was yet un-
certain how the day should go. Bruce had brought up
his whole reserve ; but the English continued to charge
with unabated vigour, while the Scots received them
with an inflexible intrepidity ; each individual fight-
ing as if victory depended on his single arm. An
occurrence— which some represent as an accidental
sally of patriotic enthusiasm, others as a premeditated
stratagem of Robert's. — suddenly altered the face of
affairs, and contributed greatly to victory. Above
15,000 servants and attendants of the Scottish army,
had been ordered, before the battle, to retire, with
the baggage, behind the adjoining hill ; but having,
during the engagement, arranged themselves in a
martial form, some on foot, and others mounted on
the baggage-horses, they marched to the top, and
displaying, on long poles, white sheets instead of
banners, descended towards the field with hideous
shouts. The English, taking them for a fresh rein-
forcement of the foe, were seized with so great a
panic that they gave way in much confusion. Bu-
chanan says, that the English king was the first that
fled ; but in this contradicts all other historians, who
affirm, that Edward was among the last in the held.
Nay, according to some accounts, he would not be
persuaded to retire, till Aymer de Vallance, seeing
the day lost, took hold of his bridle, and led him off.
Sir Giles de Argentine, the other knight who waited
on Edward, accompanied him a short wray off the
field, till he saw him placed in safety ; he then wheeled
round, and putting himself at the head of a battalion
made a vigorous effort to retrieve the disastrous
state of affairs, but was soon overwhelmed and slain.
He was a champion of high renown ; and, having
signalized himseif in several battles with the Sara-
cens, was reckoned the third knight of his day. The
Scots pursued, and made great havoc among the
enemy, especially in passing the river, where, from
the irregularity of the ground, they could not pre-
serve the smallest order. A mile from the field of
battle, a small bit of ground goes by the name of
Bloody fold ; where, according to tradition, a party
of the English faced about and made a stand, but,
after sustaining a dreadful slaughter, were forced to
continue their flight. This account corresponds to
several histories of the Earl of Gloucester. Seeing
the rout of his countn men, he made an effort to re-
new the battle, at the head of his military tenants,
and, after having personally done much execution,
was, with most of his party, cut to pieces. The
Scottish writers make the enemy's loss, in the battle
and pursuit, 50,000, and their own 4,000. Among
the latter, Sir William Vipont and Sir Walter
Ross were the only persons of distinction. A pro-
portion almost incredible. The slain on the English
side were all decently interred by Bruce's order;
who, even in the heat of victory, could not refrain
from shedding tears over several who had been his
intimate friends. The corpse of the Earl of Glou-
cester was carried that night to the church of St.
Ninians, where it lay, till, together with that of the
Sir Robert Clifford, it was sent to the English mon-
arch. Twenty-seven English barons, two hundred
knights, and seven hundred esquires, fell in the field;
the number of prisoners also was very great; and
amongst them were many of high rank, who were
treated with the utmost civility. The remains of
the vanquished were scattered all over the country.
Many ran to the castle; and not a few, attempting
the Forth, were drowned. The Earl of Hereford,
the surviving general, retreated with a large body
towards Bothwell, and threw himself, with a few of
the chief officers, into that castle, which was then gar-
risoned by the English. Being hard pressed, he sur-
rendered ; and was soon exchanged against Bruce's
queen and daughter, and some others of his friends,
who had been captive eight years in England. King
BAN
111
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Edward escaped with much difficulty. Retreating
from the field of battle, he rode to the castle; but
was told by the governor, that he could not long
enjoy safety there, as it could not be defended against
the victors. Taking a compass to shun the vigilance
of the Scots, he made the best of his way homeward,
accompanied by fifteen noblemen, and a body of
500 cavalry. He was closely pursued above forty
miles by Sir James Douglas, who, with a party of
light horse, kept upon his rear, and was often very
near him. How hard he was put to, may be guessed
from a vow which he made in his flight, to build and
endow a religious house in Oxford, should it please
God to favour his escape. He was on the point of
being made prisoner, when he was received into the
castle of Dunbar by Gospatrick, Earl of March, who
was in the English interest. Douglas waited a few
days in the neighbourhood, in expectation of his at-
temptingto go home by land. He escaped, however,
by sea, in a fisherman's boat. His stay at Dunbar
had been very short. Three days after the battle,
he issued a proclamation from Berwick, announcing
the loss of his seal, and forbidding all persons to
obey any order proceeding from it, without some
other evidence of that order's being his. " The riches
obtained by the plunder of the English," says Mr.
Tytler, " and the subsequent ransom paid for the
multitude of the prisoners, must have been very
great. Their exact amount cannot be easily esti-
mated, but some idea of its greatness may be formed
by the tone of deep lamentation assumed by the
Monk of Malmesbury. ' O day of vengeance and of
misfortune !' says he, ' day of disgrace and perdition !
unworthy to be included in the circle of the year,
which tarnished the fame of England, and enriched
the Scots with the plunder of the precious stuffs of
our nation, to the extent of two hundred thousand
pounds. Alasl of how many noble barons, and ac-
complished knights, and high-spirited young soldiers,
— of what a store of excellent arms, and golden ves-
sels, and costly vestments, did one short and miser-
able day deprive us !' Two hundred thousand pounds
of money in those times, amounts to about six hun-
dred thousand pounds weight of silver, or nearly
three millions of our present money. The loss of
the Scots in the battle was incredibly small, and
proves how effectually the Scottish squares had re-
pelled the English cavalry."
BANTON, a hamlet in the parish of Kilsyth,
Stirlingshire; H mile north-east of Kilsyth. There
is a parochial school here, the master of which has a
salary of £12 6s. 3d., with £31 school-fees, and a
house.
BAR A. See Garvald.
BARA. See Barra.
BARCALDINE. See Ardchatten.
BARDOWIE LOCH. See Baldernock.
BARGARRAN, a village in the parish of Erskine
in Renfrewshire, in which the manufacture of fine
thread was first established. In the old Statistical
account it is stated that " one of the last trials for
witchcraft which happened in Scotland, had its origin
in this parish in 1696-7. The person supposed to
have been bewitched or tormented by the agency of
(nil spirits, or of those who were in compact with
them, was Christian Shaw, daughter of John Shaw
of Bargarran, then about eleven years of age. A
short account of this trial may be seen in Arnot's
' Collection of Criminal Trials.' Three men and
Jour women were condemned to death, as guilty of
the crime of witchcraft, and were executed at Pais-
ley. This may furnish ample matter of speculation
to those whose object it is to trace the progress and
variation of manners and opinions among men. The
subsequent history of this lady is, however, more
interesting to the political inquirer. Having acquired
a remarkable dexterity in spinning tine yarn, she
conceived the idea of manufacturing it into thread.
Her first attempts in this way were necessarily on a
small scale. She executed almost every part of the
process with her own hands, and bleached her mate-
rials on a large slate placed in one of the windows of
the house. She succeeded, however, so well in these
essays as to have sufficient encouragement to go on,
and to take the assistance other younger sisters and
neighbours. The then Lady Blantyre carried a
parcel of her thread to Bath, and disposed of it ad-
vantageously to some manufacturers of lace, and this
was probably the first thread made in Scotland that
had crossed the Tweed. About this time a person
who was connected with the family happening to be
in Holland, found means to learn the secrets of the
thread manufacture, which was then carried on to
great extent in that country, particularly the art of
sorting or numbering the threads of different sizes,
and packing them up for sale, and the construction
and management of the twisting and twining ma-
chine. This knowledge he communicated on his
return to his friends in Bargarran, and by means of
it they were enabled to conduct their manufacture
with more regularity, and to a greater extent. The
young women in the neighbourhood were taught
to spin fine yarn, twining mills were erected, corre-
spondences were established, and a profitable business
was carried on. Bargarran thread became exten-
sively known, and, being ascertained by a stamp,
bore a good price. From the instructions of the
family of Bargarran, a few families in the neighbour-
hood engaged in the same business, and continued it
for a number of years. It was not to be expected,
however, that a manufacture of that kind could be
confined to so small a district, or would be allowed
to remain in so i'aw hands for a great length of time.
The secrets of the business were gradually divulged
by apprentices and assistants. Traders in Paisley
availed themselves of these communications, and
laid the foundation of the well-established and ex-
tensive manufacture of thread, which has ever since
been carried on in that town."
BARNBOUGLE CASTLE, an ancient seat of
the Moubrays, in the parish of Dalmeny, Linlithgow-
shire. In 1620, it passed, by sale, from the Mou-
brays ; and it is now the property of the Earl of Rose-
berry. Its site is close on the frith of Forth; and
the sea has, in its encroachments here, completely
washed away the lawn before it, so that it was long
since found necessary to erect a bulwark for the
safety of the castle.
BARNS (EAST), a village in the parish of Dun-
bar, Haddingtonshire ; on the great line of road from
Berwick to Edinburgh, and 2| miles east of Dunbar.
An Antiburgher congregation which used to assem-
ble here, removed their place of meeting to Dunbar
in 1820. There is a parochial school here, endowed
with the interest of £150.
BARNS (WEST), a village in the same parish,
and on the same line of road, 2 miles west of Dun-
bar ; on a small stream called the Biel, which here
flows into Belbaven bay.
BARNS OF AYR, an encampment, or military
building, held by the English forces in the reign of
Edward I., on the south-east side of the town of Ayr,
celebrated in history for the fearful revenge which
Wallace executed upon the garrison then in posses-
sion of the place, for the treacherous seizure and
putting to death of Sir Reginald Crawford, Sir Bryce
Blair, and Sir Hugh Montgomerie. Dr. Jamieson,
in his notes to ' Wallace,' saysi " The story of the
destruction of these buildings, and of the immediate
reason of it, is supported by the universal tradition
BAR
112
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of the country to this day; and local tradition is
often entitled to more regard than is given to it by
the fastidiousness of the learned. Whatever allow-
ances it may be necessary to make for subsequent
exaggeration, it is not easily conceivable, that an
event should be connected with a particular spot,
during a succession of ages, without some foundation.
Sir D. Dalrymple deems this story ' inconsistent with
piobability.' He objects to it, because it is said,
'that Wallace, accompanied by Sir John Graham,
Sir John Menteitb, and Alexander Scrymgeour, con-
stable of Dundee, went into the west of Scotland, to
chastise the men of Galloway, who had espoused the
part of the Comyns, and of the English ;' and that,
'on the 28th August, 129S, they set fire to some
granaries in the neighbourhood of Ayr, and burned
the English cantoned in them.' — Annals, I. 255, N.
Here he refers to the relations of Arnold Blair and
to Major, and produces three objections to the nar-
rative. One of these is, that ' Comyn, the younger
of Badenoch, was the only man of the name of
Comyn who had any interest in Galloway ; and he
was at that time of Wallace's party.' The other
two are ; that ' Sir John Graham could have no share
in the enterprise, for he was killed at Falkirk, 22d
July, 1298;' and that 'it is not probable that Wal-
lace would have undertaken such an enterprise im-
mediately after the discomfeiture at Falkirk.' Al-
though it had been said by mistake, that Graham and
Comyn were present, this could not invalidate the
whole relation, for we often find that leading facts
are faithfully narrated in a history, when there are
considerable mistakes as to the persons said to have
been engaged. But although our annalist refers both
to Major and Blair, it is the latter only who mentions
either the design of the visit paid to the west of
Scotland, or the persons who are said to have been
associates in it. The whole of Sir David's reasoning
rests on the correctness of a date, and of one given
only in the meagre remains ascribed to Arnold Blair.
If his date be accurate, the transaction at Ayr, what-
ever it .vas, must have taken place thirty-seven days
afterwaias. Had the learned writer exercised his
usual acumen here — had he not been resolved to
throw discredit on this part of the history of Wallace
— it would have been most natural for him to have
supposed, that this event was post-dated by Blair.
It seems, indeed, to have been long before the battle
of Falkirk. Blind Harry narrates the former in his
Seventh, the latter in his Eleventh Book. Sir David
himself, after pushing the argument from the date
given by Blair as far as possible, virtually gives it
up, and makes the acknowledgment which he ought
to have made before. ' I believe,' he says, ' that this
story took its rise from the pillaging of the English
quarters, about the time of the treaty of Irvine, in
1297, which, as being an incident of little conse-
quence, I omitted in the course of this history.'
Here he refers to Hemingford, T. I. p. 123. ' Hem-
ingford says, that ' many of the Scots and men of
Galloway had, in a hostile manner, made prey of
their stores, having slain more than five hundred
men, with women and children.' Whether he means
to say that this took place at Ayr, or at Irvine, seems
doubtful. But here, I think, we have the nucleus
of the story. The barns, according to the diction of
Blind Harry, seem to have been merely ' the English
quarters,' erected by order of Edward for the accom-
modation of his troops. Although denominated
barns by the Minstrel, and horreas by Arnold Blair,
both writers seem to have used these terms with
great latitude, as equivalent to what are now called
barracks. It is rather surprising, that our learned
annalist should view the loss of upwards of five
hundred men, besides women and children, with that
of their property, ■ as an incident of little conse-
quence,' in a great national struggle. Major gives
nearly the same account as Blair. Speaking of Wal-
lace, he says, ' Anglorum insignes viros apud horrea
Aerie residentes de nocte incendit, et qui a voraci
flamma evaserunt ejus mucrone occubuerunt.' — Fol.
lxx. There is also far more unquestionable evidence
as to the cause of this severe retaliation, than is
generally supposed. Lord Hailes has still quoted
Barbour as an historian of undoubted veracity.
Speaking of Crystal of Seton, he says —
It wes gret sorow sekyrly,
That so worthy persoune as lie
Sold on sic maner hangyt be.
Thusgate endyt his worthynes.
And off Craufnrd als Schyr Ranald wes,
And Sehyr Bryce als the Blar,
Hangyt in till a berne in Ar.1
The Bruce, III. 260 y. &c.
This tallies very well with the account given by
the Minstrel.
' Four thousand haill that nyeht was in till Ayr.
In gret bernyss, bipgyt with out the toun,
The justire lay, with mony bald barroun.*
Wallace, vii. 334"
Miss Baillie has made good use of this incident in
the life of Wallace, in her 'Metrical Legend.'
BARNYARDS. See Killconqphak.
BARONY PARISH. See Glasgow.
BARR, a very large parish in the district of
Carrick in Ayrshire ; bounded on the north by Dailly
parish ; on the east by Straiten ; on the south by
Kirkcudbrightshire and the parish of Colmonell ;
and on the west by Colmonell and Girvan parishes,
which interpose between it and the Irish channel.
Its superficies is estimated by Aiton at 50,000 Scots
acres, being 1,000 acres more than that of Ballantrae,
which is the second parish in Ayrshire in point of
extent. In the new Statistical account, published
in 1837, its area is stated to be about 100 square
miles, or 64,000 imperial acres. It is a rude moor-
land district, of which not above a fiftieth part is under
cultivation, and not as much more cultivable. The
Ardstinchar rises in it and flows through it from
north-east to south-west between two high ranges of
hills. The principal lines of road which intersect it
are the old and new roads to Ayr ; the former run-
ning up the dale of the Minnock water from south
to north, on the eastern side of the parish ; the latter
branching offin a north-east direction from the former,
at Rowantree. The new Statistical report states,
that some of the mountains on the banks of the
Minnock attain an elevation of 2,700 feet. Another
road branches off from the Ayr road shortly after its
entrance into the parish, and runs north-west to the
kirktown of Barr. The third stream in this parish
is the Muck water, which rises among the hills to
the south of Barr, and flows in a direction parallel to
the Stinchar, to its confluence with the Dusk in the
parish of Colmonell. There are a few small lochs,
and several extensive morasses. The village of Barr,
which is situated on the south side of the Stinchar,
at the confluence of the Gregg water with that river,
has a population of about 250. An annual fair is
held in this parish on the last Saturday of May, at
Kirk Domince, a name given to the ruins of an an-
cient Roman Catholic chapel which still exist here,
about a mile to the south-west of the church. Popu-
lation, in 1801, 742; in 1831, 941. Houses 175.
Assessed property £5,115 This parish, formerly a
vicarage, is in the presbytery of Ayr, and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr. It was disjoined in 1653 from the
parishes of Girvan and Dailly. Patron, the Crown',
Stipend £231 3s. Id., with a manse, and a glebe of
the value of £18. Unappropriated teinds £154.
Church built above a century ago, and repaired in
BAR
313
BAR
1834; sittings 410. Schoolmaster's salary .£34 4s.
4 jtd., with ±'18 fees, and other emoluments. There
were 3 private schools in 1834.
BARR, a small village in Kintyre, ahout 12 miles
north-west hv north of Campbelton, on the coast.
BARRHEAD, a thriving village in the parish of
Neilston, Renfrewshire ; on the road from Glasgow
to Irvine ; 3 miles south-east of Paisley ; on the
south side of the Levern. There is a Secession chapel
here. A small debt-court is held here every alter-
nate month. The population are chiefly engaged in
weaving. The progress of this village within the
last forty years has been rapid.
BARRHILL. See Colmonell.
BAKRA, or Baka, or not unfrequently Barray,
an island-parish in the county of Inverness, synod of
Glenelg, and presbytery of Uist ; consisting of a
groupe of islands divided, on the north, from South
Uist by a channel of 8 miles ; the island of Tiree, in
the county of Argyle, is the nearest land to it on the
south, and lies at the distance of about 35 miles ;
Carina and Rum, in the parish of the Small isles, are
at the distance of about 30 miles ; on the west it is
exposed to the Atlantic ocean. The parish of Barra
consists of the main island of Barra, and a number
of much smaller islands and islets. The whole,
forming what is called the estate of Barra, as lately
belonging to Colonel Macneil, is reckoned to consist
of 4,(JU0 imperial acres of arable land, and 18,000 of
meadow and hill-pasture, of which the rerrtal, in
1840. was £'2,458 10s. 7d. The main island of
Barra is 8 miles in length, and from 2 to 4 in breadth,
being deeply intersected in different places by arms
of the sea. The island of Vatersa, separated from
the main island by a channel of one mile, is about 3
miles iir length, and in some places 1£ mile broad.
Sandera, to the south of Vatersa, and distant 5 miles
from Barra, is 2 miles in length, and 2 in breadth.
Pabba, at the distance of 8 miles from Barra, is 1^
in length, and 1 in breadth. Mingala, at the distance
of 12 miles, is 2 miles in length, anil 2 in breadth.
Bernera — which, from its being called the Bishop's
isle, seems to have orrce belonged to the Bishop of
the Isles — 16 miles south-south-west of Barra, is 1
mile in length, and j in breadth. All these islands are
difficult of access, on account of the strong cur-
rents running between them. Close by the island
of Mingala is a high rock, with very luxuriant
grass on the top of it. The inhabitants of this
island climb to the top at the risk of their lives,
and by means of a rope hoist up their wedders to
fatten on the fine herbage. This must be the Scarpa
Vervecum mentioned by Buchanan. The main island
of Barra has a barren rocky appearance, excepting
the north end, which is fertile. In the middle and
at the south end are some very high hills, presenting a
mixture of green sward, rock, and heath. The soil
in general is thin and rocky, excepting at the north
end ; there is also a great deal of sand, which is
blown about with every gale of wind, so that a large
part of the best corn-land has been thus blown away,
or covered with sand. According to Dr. Webster's
report, the number of souls upon these islands in
1755, was 1,150. In 1801, it was 1,969; in 1831, it
"was 2,097, of whom 302 families were employed in
agriculture, 15 in manufacture and handicraft, and
56 were not comprised in either of these classes.
The number of houses, in 1831, was 373. In 1821
the population was 2,303 ; the decrease, in 1831, was
attributable to extensive emigration from this quarter.
The sjstem of sheep-farming has also been recently
introduced into these islands, and will compel many
of the inhabitants to seek a home elsewhere. Barra
held originally of the kings of Scotland, till the
reign of James VI., when an English ship was seized
upon the coast by Roderick Maeniel, then laird ot
Barra, surnamed Rory the turbulent. Queen Eliza-
beth complained of this act of piracy committed
upon her subjects; upon which the laird was sum-
moned to appear at Edinburgh, to answer for his un-
justifiable behaviour; but he treated the summons
with contempt. Several attempts were then made
to apprehend him, all of which proved unsuccessful,
until Mackenzie, tutor of Kintail, undertook to effect
by stratagem what others could not do by more
direct means. Having come, urrder cover of a friendly
visit, to the castle of Kisimul, where the laird then
resided, he invited him and all his retainers on board
his vessel, where, not suspecting any hostile design,
they suffered themselves to be overpowered with
liquor. In this situation poor Rory's friends were
easily put on shore, leaving their unconscious chief
in the hands of his kidnapper. Kintail hoisted sail
under night, and, the wind proving fair, was soon
out of reach of his pursuers. He at length arrived
with his prisoner in Edinburgh, where Rory was im-
mediately put on his trial. Rory confessed to his mal-
practices, but alleged that he thought himself bound,
by his loyalty, to avenge the unpardonable injury
done by the queen of England to his own sovereign,
and his majesty's mother. By this answer, he ob-
tained his pardon, but forfeited his estate, which was
given to Kintail, who restored it back to the laird,
on condition of his holding of him, and paying him
60 merks Scots as a yearly feu-duty. Some time
after, Sir James Macdonald of Slate married a
daughter of Kintail's, who made over the superiority
to Sir James, in whose family it continues till this
day. The old residence of the feudal lairds of Barra
was a small fortalice in Castlebay, built upon a
rock which must have formerly been almost covered
with the sea. This building is of an hexagonal form ;
the wall is about 30 feet high ; and in one of its
angles is a high square tower, on the top of which,
at the corner immediately above the gate, is a per-
forated stone through which the gockman, or watch-
man, who sat there all night, could let a stone fall
upon any one who might attempt to surprise the gate
by night. Within the wall are several houses, and a
well dug through the middle of the rock. Buchanan
calls it an old castle in his time. " I saw," says
Martin, " the officer called the cockman, and an old
cock he is : when I bid him ferry me over the water
to the island, he told me that he was but an inferior
officer, his business being to attend in the tower ;
but if, says he, the constable — who then stood on
the wall— will give you access, I'll ferry you over. I
desired him to procure me the constable's permission,
and I would reward him ; but having waited some
hours for the constable's answer, and not receiving
any, I was obliged to return without seeing this
famous fort. Macrriel and his lady being absent* was
the cause of this difficulty, and of my not seeing
the place. I was told some weeks after, that the
constable was very apprehensive of some design I
might have in viewing the fort, and thereby to ex-
pose it to the conquest of a foreign power ; of which
I supposed there was no great cause of fear." There
are great quantities of cod and ling caught upon the
east coast of Barra. The fishing-banks extend from
the mouth of Loch Boisdale to Barrahead. At the
close of last century from 20 to 30 boats were gene-
rally employed in this business from the latter end
of March, or the beginning of April, to the end of
June ; there were five hands to every boat, and on
an average they killed from 1,000 to 1,500 ling each
boat. In 1829, the number ot" boats belonging to
this parish employed in the herring, cod, and ling
fisheries was 81, manned by 405 hands. The num.
her of cod, ling, and hake fish taken was 31,574;
H
BAR
114
BAR
the total quantity cured and dried 1,133 cwt., of
which 1291 cwt. were exported to Ireland. It does
not appear that this fishery has made any progress
since the end of last century. Shell fish abound
here, such as liinpits, mussels, wilks, clams,
spout-fisli or razor-fish, lobsters, and crabs ; but
the most valuable to the inhabitants is the shell
fish called cockle. It is found upon the great sand
at the north end of Barra, in such quantities, that in
times of great scarcity all the families upon the island
have resorted hither for their subsistence ; and it
nas been computed, that no less than from 100 to "200
norse-loads of cockles have been taken off the sands
at low-water, every day of the springtides, during the
months of May, June, July, and August. Dean
Monroe tells us that, "in the north end of this isle
of Barray, ther is ane rough heigh know, inayne
grasse and greine round about it to the head, on the
top of quhilk ther is ane spring and fresh water well.
This well truely springs up certaine little round
white things, less nor the quantity of confeit come,
lykest to the shape and figure of an little cokill, as it
appearit to me. Out of this well runs ther ane little
strype downwith to the sea, and quher it enters into
the sea ther is ane myle braid of sands, quhilk ebbs
ane myle, eallit the Trayrmore of Kilbaray, that is
the grate sands of Barray. This ile is all full of
grate cokills, and alledgit be the ancient countrymen
that the same cokills comes down out of the foresaid
hill through the said strype, in the first small forme
that we have spoken of, and after ther coming to the
sandis growis grate cokills always. Ther is na fairer
and more profitable sands for cokills in all the warld."
Of harbours, the first towards the north is Ottir-
vore, which is more properly a roadsted than a har-
bour ; the entrance to it is from the east between the
islands of Griskay and Gigha. The next farther
south is Flodda sound, which is surrounded by a
number of islands, and opens to the south-east ; here
the largest ships may ride with safety all seasons of
the year. Tirivee, or the inland bay, is so called
from its cutting far into the middle of the country ;
here vessels may ride out the hardest gales; it opens
also to the south-east. At the south end of Barra is
Kisimul-bay, or Castle-bay, so called from the old
castle formerly mentioned ; it opens to the south.
In the island of Vatersa is a very commodious har-
bour for ships of any burden : it is accessible from
the south-east between the islands of Sandera and
Muldonich. Ottirvore and Flodda are much fre-
quented by ships to and from the Baltic. There is
a light-house on Barra head, the highest part of Ber-
nera in N. lat 56° 48', and W. long. 7° 38'. The
light is intermitting every three minutes, being bright
for 2^ minutes ; and then suddenly eclipsed for i
a minute. It is 680 feet above high water, and is
seen at the distance of 32 miles in clear weather. It
was erected in 1833. The expense of maintaining
this light, in 1838, was £638 9s. 9d. There are
some fresh water lochs with plenty of trout
The Protestant religion universally prevailed here
till after the Restoration ; when some Irish priests
crossed over to these islands, and made many con-
verts. Harris and Barra at this time made one
parish; and the minister always resided in Harris.
The number of Protestants has always been so small
that it was thought unnecessary to put the heritor to
the expense of building a church. There are three
places of worship, viz. Kilbar, Borve, and Watersay.
The minister preaches two Sundays at Borve ; the
third Sunday at Kilbar; and the fourth at Watersay.
The inhabitants of the South isles were stated to be
all Roman Catholics in the old Statistical account.
The stipend of the parochial minister is £165 10s.
5d., with a manse, and a glebe of the value of £7 10s.
In 1834 there was no school in the parish, so that, in
a population of above 2,000 souls, few were able
either to read or write, and the young generation
were growing up in ignorance. A church has been
erected in Bernera by the parliamentary commis-
sioners, at an expense of ±'1,470 — :The island ot
Barra, with all the surrounding islands, is the pro-
perty of Macniel of Barra, whose predecessors are
said to have been in possession of those islands be-
fore the Danes, and were the first of that name who
came from Ireland, whence they derive their pedi.
gree ; so that they have always been acknowledged
the chief of the Macnicls in Scotland. Martin, in
his 'Description of the Western Islands,' gives some
curious notices of this groupe of islands, and the
manners of these simple inhabitants. He savs, " The
church in this island is called Kilbarr, i. e. St. Barr's
church. There is a little chapel by it, in which
Macneil, and those descended of his family, are
usually interred. The natives have St. Barr's
wooden image standing on the altar, covered with
linen in form of a shirt : all their greatest assevera-
tions are by this saint. I came very early in the
morning with an intention to see this image, but
was disappointed ; for the natives prevented me, by
carrying it away, lest I might take occasion to ridi-
cule their superstition, as some Protestants have
done formerly : and when I was gone, it was again
exposed on the altar. They have several traditions
concerning this great saint. There is a chapel — .
about half a mile on the south side of the hill near
St. Barr's church — where I had occasion to get an
account of a tradition concerning this saint, which
was thus: ' The inhabitants having begun' to build
the church, which they dedicated to him, they laid
this wooden image within it, but it was invisibly
transported,' as they say, ' to the place where the
church now stands, and found there every morning.'
This miraculous conveyance is the reason they give
for desisting to work where they first began. I told
my informer that this extraordinary motive was suf-
ficient to determine the case, if true, but asked his
pardon to dissent from him, for I had not faith
enough to believe this miracle; at which he was
surprised, telling me in the mean time that this tra-
dition had been faithfully conveyed by the priests
and natives successively to this day." " The inhabi-
tants are very hospitable," the same writer informs
us, " and have a custom, that when any strangers
from the northern islands resort thither, the natives,
immediately after their landing, oblige them to eat,
even though they should have liberally eat and drunk
but an hour before their landing there. And this
meal they call Bieyta'v; i.e. Ocean meat; for they
presume that the sharp air of the ocean, which in-
deed surrounds them, must needs give them a good
appetite. And whatever number of strangers come
there, or of whatsoever quality or sex, they are regu-
larly lodged according to ancient custom, that is, one
only in a family; by which custom a man cannot lodge
with his own wife, while in this island. Mr. Johu
Campbell, the present minister of Harries, told me
that his father being then parson of Harries, and
minister of Barra — for the natives at that time wer.e
Protestants — carried his wife along with him, and
resided in this island for some time, and they dis-
posed of him, his wife and servants, in manner above-
mentioned : and suppose Macneil of Barray and his
lady should go thither, he would be obliged to com-
ply with this ancient custom."
BARRIE, a parish in the south-east of Forfar-
shire; bounded on the west and north by Monikie
parish ; on the north and north-east by Panbride
parish; on the east by the German ocean; and on
the south by the frith of Tay. The coast is flat and
BAR
115
BAS
Bandy ; but a high verdant bank, which seems once
to have formed the coast-line in this quarter, ex-
tends from north-east to south-west, so as to give
to the northern division of the parish the appearance
of a terrace elevated about 50 feet above the south-
ern division. On the extreme south-east point of
the coast, the Buddon-ness, in N. lat. 56° "28', and
W. long. 2° 45', are two light-houses, the one bear-
ing N. N. \V. 1,122 feet from the other; the height
of the two lanterns being respectively 85 feet and
65 feet, and both showing a white fixed light, visible
the one at the distance of 9 and the other at the
distance of 12 miles, in clear weather. These two
lights form the leading lights to vessels entering the
Tay, between the Gaa sands and Abertay sands.
The post-road between Dundee and Arbroath inter-
sects this parish from south- west to north-east.
Population, in 1801, 886; in 1831, 1,682. Houses
408. There are three villages within the parish :
viz. Carnoustie, Gardenbury, and Barry. Of these
Carnoustie is greatly the largest, having a population
of 1,200. The greater part of the population is
employed in trade and manufactures, chiefly that of
brown linen for the Arbroath merchants. Assessed
property, in 1815, .£2,946 — This parish is in the
presbytery of Arbroath, and synod of Angus and
Mearhs. Patron, the Crown. Minister's stipend
£143 12s. lid., with a manse, and a glebe of the
value of £5 10s. Unappropriated teinds £4 3s. 8d.
Church altered and enlarged in 1818; sittings 673.
A chapel-of-ease has been recently erected at Car-
noustie, where there are also two dissenting places
of worship. The United Secession church in this
village was built in 1810; sittings 380. Stipend
£86, with a manse and glebe. The Original Sece-
der church in this village was also built in 1810;
sittings 250. Stipend £70, with a manse and gar-
den. The parochial schoolmaster has a salary of
£29 18s. 9|<1.', with about £30 school-fees. Pupils
from 70 to 100. There is also a private school at-
tended by about the same number of children In
the neighbourhood of Carnoustie, Malcolm II. sig-
nally defeated a body of marauding Danes under
Camus.
BARVAS, a parish in the island of Lewis, and
county of Ross; hounded on the north by the At-
lantic ocean; on the east by the quoad sacra parish
of Cross; on the south by Stornoway parish, and
that of Lochs ; and on the west by Lochs. The
extent of sea-coast is about 15 miles; it is bold and
rugged throughout, having a tremendous surf upon
it when the wind blows from the west or the north-
west. The soil is in general light and stony, or
mossy, and the whole surface is nearly level through-
out. The only arable land is along the coast. There
is not a tree, and scarcely a shrub throughout the
whole parish. The principal river is the Barvas,
which rises in some small lakes on the southern
boundary of the parish, and flows northwards, ex-
panding near its mouth into a small loch. The
streams contain some trout, and occasionally salmon ;
on the coast, cod, ling, and haddocks are caught.
The interior abounds with plovers, snipes, wild-
geese, and ducks. There is a road from the mouth
of the Barvas, southwards along the eastern bank of
that stream, to Stornoway, a distance of about 18
miles. Population, with that of Cross, in 1S01,
2,233; in 1831, 3,011. Houses 617. Assessed pro-
perty £14. The population of Barvas as distinct
from Cross, was estimated, in 1835, at 1,840, allot
whom were engaged in agricultural labour, renting
small patches of ground at from £1 to £6 per an-
num -This parish is in the synod of Glenelg, and
presbytery of Lewis. Patron, the Crown. Minis-
ter's stipend £153 6s. Sd., with a manse, and a
glebe of the value of £20. Church built about
1794; sittings 300. Parochial schoolmaster's sti-
pend £28. Number of pupils from 30 to 40. There
are two itinerating Gaelic schools, which are usually
stationary for two years at a time, and are then re-
moved to some other quarter. In 1834, it was stated
that there were in this parish 390 persons above 15
years of age unable to read The islands of Roua
and Sulisker belong to this parish.
BARVIE (The), a small river which rises in the
parish of Monzie, in Perthshire, and falls into the
Earn near Crieff.
BASS (The), a stupendous insulated rock, in the
frith of Forth, about 3£ miles east-north-east, from
North Berwick, and H north of Cantv bay ; in N. lat.
56° 4' 53", and W. long. 2° 37' 57". It is about a
mile in circumference, and shoots up to 420 feet
above the surface of the water. Its loftiest side is
towards the north; on the south side it assumes a
conical form, sloping rapidly towards the sea. There
are about 7 acres of grassy surface on the rock, pre-
senting a fine clean short bite of pasturage to a few
sheep. The mutton fed here is proverbially deli-
cious. A cavernous passage penetrates through the
rock from north-west to south-east, which has often
been explored, but presents nothing remarkable.
The only landing-place is on the south-east side,
and this was commanded by a small fortalice now
in ruins. Beague thus describes this castle, in the
time of Mary of Guise's regency : " Now, the island
in which the castle stands is itself an impregnable
rock, of a small extent and oval figure, cut out by
the hands of nature; it has only one avenue that
leads to it, and that is towards the castle, but so
very difficult and uneasy, that by reason of the hid-
den sands that surround the rock, nothing can ap-
proach it but one little boat at a time. The island
is so exorbitantly uneven, that till one reach the
wall of the castle, he cannot have sure footing in
any one place ; so that — as I have often observed —
those that enter it must climb up by the help of a
strong cable thrown down for the purpose ; arid when
they have got with much ado to the foot of the wall,
they sit down in a wide basket, and in this posture
are mounted up by strength of hands. There is no
getting into this wonderful fortress by any other
means. Formerly, it had a postern-gate which faci-
litated the entry, but it is now thrown down, and
fortified in such a manner as is incredible." The
story about " the hidden sands " is altogether apo-
cryphal; the channel all round being not only free
from rocks or sands, but of great depth. This
41 island salt ami bare,
The. haunt of seals audorcs and sea-mews' clang,"
is said to have been chosen by St. Baldred, the
apostle of East Lothian, for his residence in the early
part of the 7th century.* In 1405; the Earl of Car-
rick, son of Robert III., and then in his 14th year,
embarked here, along with the Earl of Orkney and
a small suite, in a vessel which was to carry him to
France, where he could pursue his studies in safety
from the intrigues df Albany. There was atruceat this
period between England and Scotland, nevertheless
an armed merchantman belonging to Wye attacked
and captured the prince's vessel off Flamborough
head. In 1671, the Crown acquired this island by
purchase from Sir Andrew Ramsay of Abbotshall
for £4,000. It had previously been for several cen-
turies in the possession of the Lauder family. Under
the reigns of Charles II. and James II. it was used
* Mr. James Miller has collected a variety of curious legend
ary matter touching the Bass and St Baldred ill the Notes to
his poem entitled 'St. Baldred of the Buss:' Edinburgh, UB6,
8vo.
BAS
116
BAT
as a state-prison, and many of the covenanters were
confined here. Among these sufferers for conscience'
sake was the celebrated Colonel John Blackadder,
who died in confinement here, and whose cell is still
pointed out to the visitor.* At the Revolution, it
held out so stoutly for King- James, under Captain
Maitland, with a garrison of 50 men, that the Scot-
tish Privy council were necessitated to enter into
negotiations for the surrender of the place, in which
the garrison were granted honourable terms, f The
fortifications were then demolished, and the island
was gifted by the Crown to Sir James Dalrymple,
Lord-president of the court of session. Immense
quantities of sea- fowl nestle and breed on this rock.
Of these the most remarkable is the solan goose, of
which De Foe has given us the following account :
" They feed on the herrings, and therefore 'tis ob-
served they come just before, or with them, and go
away with them also; though 'tis evident they do
not follow them, but go all away to the north, whi-
ther none knows but themselves, and he that guides
them. As they live on fish, so they eat like fish,
which, together with their being so exceeding fat,
makes them, in my opinion, a very coarse dish, rank,
and ill-relished, and soon gorging the stomach. But
as they are looked upon there as a dainty, I have no
more to say ; all countries have their several gusts
and particular palates. Onions and garlick were
dainties, it seems, in Egypt, and horse-flesh is so to
this day in Tartary, and much more may a solan-
goose he so in other places. It is a large fowl, rather
bigger than an ordinary goose ; 'tis duck-footed, and
swims as a goose ; but the bill is long, thick, and
pointed like a crane or heron, only the neck much
thicker, and not above five inches long. Their lav-
ing but one egg, Which sticks to the rock, and will
not fall off, unless pulled off by force, and then not
to be stuck on again, though we thought them fic-
tions, yet, being there at the season, we found true;
as also their hatching by holding the egg fast in their
foot. What Nature meant by giving these singulari-
ties to a creature that has nothing else in it worth
notice, we cannot determine.'/ The Bass is fre-
quently visited by parties of pleasure. The best
season for visiting it is June or July. Boats are
obtained at the keeper's house in the hamlet of
Canty bav.
BASS" OF INVERURY (The), an earthen
mount on the banks of the Ury in Aberdeenshire,
said by tradition to have been once a castle which
was walled up and covered with earth because the
inhabitants were infected with the plague. It is
defended against the stream by buttresses, which were
built by the inhabitants of Inverury, who were
alarmed by the following prophecy, ascribed to
Thomas the Rhymer,
" Dee and Dnn, they shall run on,
And Tweed shall run and Tay^
And the bonny water of Ury
fahall hear the Bass away."
The inhabitants of Inverury sagaciously concluded
that this prediction could not be accomplished with-
out releasing the imprisoned pestilence, and, to
guard against this fatal event, they raised ramparts
against the encroachments of the stream. The no-
tion of the plague, or pestilence, or black death, or
other fearful epidemic, being buried in certain places,
is one of the most common traditions in Scotland.
" According to some accounts,'' says Leyden, "gold
seems to have had a kind of chemical attraction for
the matter of infection, and it is frequently repre-
* See CrichtoTi's Memoirs of Blackadder, a very interesting
piece of biography*
+ A Narrative of this sieue was published in a small tract
hbimt the beginning of the 18th century. This piece is insulted
iu the 3d vol. of the ' Mijccllanea Scotica.' Glasgow, f8*U.
sented as concentrating its virulence in a pot of gold.
According to others, it seems to have been regarded
as a kind of spirit or monster, like the cockatrice,
which it was deadlv to look on."
BASSENDEAN, or BASINGDENE, in the
parish of Westruther, and shire of Berwick, an an-
cient vicarage, which formerly belonged to the nuns
of Coldstream. The church, now in ruins, stood
near the mansion-house, on the south-east ; and the
walls still enclose the burying-plaee of the Homes of
Bassendean. Soon after the Reformation, Andrew
Currie, vicar of Bassendean, conveyed to William
Home, third son of Sir James Home, of Cohlen-
knows, "terras ecclesiasticas, mansionem, et glebair"
vicariae de Bassendene:" whereupon, he obtained
from James VI. a charter for the same, on the lltli
of February, 1573-4. This William, who thus built
his house upon church-lands, was the progenitor of
the present family here ; of whom George Home, a
compatriot of the Duke of Argvle, was one of the
most devoted supporters of Presbyterianisin against
the inroads of Episcopacy in the 17th century. See
Westruther.
BATHGATE, a parish in Linlithgowshire, bound-
ed on the north by the parishes of Torphichen and
Linlithgow; on the east by Ecclesmachan, IJphall,
and Livingston ; on the south by Livingston and
Whitburn ; on the west by Torphichen and Shotts.
It is about 7^ miles in length from east to west, and
2 in average breadth ; and has a superficial area of
1 1,214 English acres. It is intersected by one of the
great roads leading from Edinburgh to Glasgow. A
considerable portion of the south-east, south, and
west of the parish is almost a level; but towards the
north-east it becomes hilly. The soil is exceedingly
variable, some very good, some very indifferent and
intermixed with patches of moss and moor; and the
climate is far from genial; but yet where it is arable,
it is in a good state of cultivation, and yielding good
crops of barley, oats, pease, and' some beans. Large
tracts also are covered with thriving plantations,
which tend greatly to heighten the beauty of the
landscape and improve the climate. Iron-stone has
been found within this parish, but not much wrought;
freestone, coals, and limestone are found in great
abundance, and wrought to a great extent. Some
mines of silver, in the hills to the north of the
town of Bathgate, were formerly wrought by Ger-
mans, but the vein has long been lost. This parish
in ancient times was a distinct sheriffdom. On
the abolition of hereditary jurisdictions, in 1747,
John, Earl of Hopetoun, claimed £2,000 tor his
right of sheriffdom. Population, in 1801, 2,513; in
1831, 3,593; of whom 2,581 reside in the town of
Bathgate. Houses 510. Assessed property, in
1815, .£9,843 This parish, anciently a vicarage,
is in the presbytery of Linlithgow, and synod of
Lothian and Tvveeddale. Patron, the Earl of Hope-
toun. The church of old was of moderate value.
Malcolm IV. granted to the monks of Holyrood the
church of Bathgate, with a portion of land. Robert,
the diocesan, who died about the year 1159, also
granted to it certain privileges, and subsequently the
abbot and monks of Holyrood ma:!e a transfer of the
church-property to the abbot and monks of New-
bottle, which arrangement was confirmed in 1327 by
Bishop Landels. The present parish-church was
built in 1739, and underwent some alterations iu
1780. It is in tolerably good repair, and capable of
accommodating 719 persons. The stipend is £132
8s. 4d., with a manse, and a glebe of the value of £19.
The salary of the parochial schoolmaster is £34 4s.
4idi, and lis. 6d. of a mortification, with fees
amounting to about £24. There is also a free
academy here, conducted by four teachers, in which
BAT
n;
BAT
Latin, Greek, French, and oilier brandies of edu-
cation are taught. This institution originated in an
ample bequest by Mr. John Newlands of Jamaica, a
native of Bathgate ; and occupies a handsome building,
with connected yards, on a rising ground a little to
the south-east of the town. There is, besides these,
a very considerable private school at Armadale, two
miles west of Bathgate. — In 1839, the total num-
ber of children at school in this parish was 590.
There are several dissenting places of worship in this
parish, within the town of Bathgate. The Relief
church was built in 1812; sittings 786. — The United
Secession church was built in 1807; sittings 400.
An Original Burgher place of worship was built in
1828; sittings 400. Stipend £83.— According to
a census made by the parish-minister in August,
1836, there were then 2,159 persons belonging to
the Established church in this parish, and 1,378 be-
longing to other denominations.
The town of Bathgate is pleasantly situated near
the centre of the parish, on the middle-line of road
from Edinburgh to Glasgow, IS miles distant from
the former, and 24 from the latter. It lays claim
to considerable antiquitv, being part of the extensive
possessions given by King Robert Bruce as the
dowry of his daughter, Lady Margery, to Walter;
high-steward of Scotland, in 1316. Walter himself
died here in 1328, at one of his chief residences, the
site of which may be still seen marked by three
stunted fir-trees. The town consists of two parts,
the old and the new. The old town is built on
a steep ridge, and the streets are narrow and
crooked. The new town is built on a regular
plan, and has a good appearance. Within these
few years the town has been considerable extended;
there has also been a large increase of population,
which is principally supported by the weaving of
cotton-goods for the Glasgow manufacturers, and bv
the lime and coal works in the vicinity. In 1824,
Bathgate was erectefl into a burgh of barony by act
of parliament. The preamble of this act states,
that the town of Bathgate having increased greatly
of late years in extent and population, it is become
expedient that a regular magistracy should be estab-
lished, and the town be erected " into a free and
independent burgh of barony." The municipal body
consists of a provost, three bailies, twelve council-
lors, and a treasurer — seventeen persons in all. The
first set of magistrates and councillors were elected
by all the persons, whether within the burgh or not,
who subscribed one pound or more towards the ex-
pense of the act of parliament. But in all future
elections the members of council were to be changed
partially, every year, in the following manner. On
the first Tuesday of September the provost and trea-
surer, with the eldest and third bailies, and four eldest
councillors, that is, eight members of the seventeen
go out, and their places are filled by the open votes
of the whole assembled burgesses. But the proprie-
tor of the lands and barony of Bathgate is entitled
to one vote, whether a burgess or not; and he has
further the privilege of filling up the office of third
bailie, if he choose to exercise it; but he must name
tor the office a person who has previously officiated
as provost, bailie, or treasurer, within the last three
years, or who has been a councillor within two
years. The electors consist of all resident persons
who have been admitted burgesses, and are at the
same time proprietors or feuars, or occupiers of
houses of i'S yearly rent or upwards. All who
paid £1 towards the expense ol the act, were de-
clared burgesses ipso facto ; and all in future renting
£3, or more, who paid the fees of entry fixed by
the magistrates and council, which were not to
exceed two guineas. The magistrates must be bur-
gesses, paying £(i rent or upwards, and resident
within the burgh, except the provost, of whom resi-
dence is not required. But residence, and £3 of
yearly rent, qualities for a councillor. The office of
procurator -fiscal for the burgh is filled up from a list
of four persons nominated by the baronial proprietor,
which is shortened to two by the provost and magis-
trates, and of these two, the proprietor nominates
one to he fiscal. The act contains also detailed re-
gulations for lighting the burgh with gas, for paving
the streets, and for establishing a system of police,
for which there is to be an annual assessment, not
exceeding one shilling in the pound The town has
a weekly market, which is held on Wednesday,
and which has become important of late as a central
corn-market for West Lothian and the adjoining
counties. It has seven fairs. The 1st, held on
the 2d Wednesday of April, is a cattle ami hiring-
market for farm-servants. The 2d, on the 1st Wed-
nesday after the term, O. S., is also for cattle. The
3d is held on the 4th Wednesday in June ; the 4th,
on the 3d Wednesday in July ; the oth, on the 3d
Wednesday in August: ail these are cattle-markets.
A 6th is held on the 4th Wednesday in October,
for cattle, and for hiring farm-servants. The 7th
for Winter fair, is held on the Wednesday after
Martinmas, O. S. The stock exhibited at any of
these markets seldom exceeds 300 head. A justice
of the peace court sits here once a month, and a sinall-
debt sheriff-court every quarter. Branches of the
National bank and the Glasgow linion bank have been
established here; and there is a subscription library.
In the old Statistical account it is stated, that "a
great alteration in the manner of living has taken
place in this parish within the last 40 years. About
1750, there were not above ten families who used
tea, and now, perhaps, there is not above twice that
number who uo not use it. Butcher-meat was then
not more used than tea : scarcely any cattle or sheep
were killed, except at Martinmas, when some fami-
lies used to salt a whole, or others only a part of an
ox or cow, to serve for winter-provision ; but now
there is a regular flesh-market twice a-week, and
almost every family, who can afford it, eats flesh
constantly. A much greater quantity of w beaten
bread is now consumed in the parish in a month,
than was in a twelvemonth 40 years ago. The alter-
ation in dress since 1750 is also remarkable. When
the goodman and his sons went to kirk, market,
wedding, or burial, they were clothed in a home-
spun suit of friezed cloth, called kelr, plaiden hose,
with a blue or brown bonnet; and the good wife anil
her daughters were dressed in gowns ami petticoa'.s
of their own spinning, with a cloth cloak and hood
of the same, or a tartan or red plaid. But now, the
former, when they go abroad, wear suits of English
cloth, good hats, &c. ; and the latter the finest printed
cottons, and sometimes silk gowns, silk caps, and
bonnets, of different shapes, sizes, and colours, white
stockings, cloth shoes," &c.
BATTLEHILL, in the parish of Annan, Dum-
fries-shire, said to have received its name from a
bloody engagement which look place here betwixt
the Scots and English, in w hich the latter were cud
off to a man. A strong mineral spring was recently
discovered here.
BEALOCH-NAM-BO, a magnificent pass across
the northern shoulder of Ben Venue, leading into
the district on the south side of Loch Katrine. It
appears to have been formed by the partial separa-
tion of this side of the mountain from the rest, and
composes an exceedingly sublime piece of scenery.
BEATH, a small inland parish in Eiteshire ;
bounded on the north by Cleish parish, from which
it is separated by- Orr water; on the east by Ballin-
BEA
113
BEA
gry parish ; on the south by Auchtertool, Dalgetty,
and Dunfermline ; and on the west by Dunfermline.
The surface is undulating, and attains its greatest
elevation in the hill of Beath, in the south-west
corner of the parish. On the western boundary of
the parish, lying partly in Dunfermline and partly in
Beath parish, is Loch Fettv, a sheet of water about
3 miles in circumference, and containing some pike
and perch. From this loch, a principal tributary of
the water of Orr flows eastwards to the latter
stream, which it joins at Clockret bridge. The
Great North road from Queensferry to Kinross and
Perth, passes through the parish from south-west to
north-east. The kirk-town of Beath is ISi miles
from Edinburgh, 7 from Kinross, and 25i from Perth.
Population, in 1801, 613; in 1831, 921. Houses
166. A number of feus have been recently granted
for building in this parish, on the line of the Great
Northern road. Assessed property, in 1815, .£2,746.
■ — This parish is in the presbytery of Dunfermline, and
synod of Fife. Patron, the Earl of Moray. Minis-
ter's stipend £183 17s. 10d., with manse, and a
glebe of the value of £17- Schoolmaster's salary
£34 4s. 4&6\, with about £30 fees, and a house and
garden. Average number of pupils 100. There is
a small bequest for the education of poor children
in this parish. In the minutes of session of this
parish it is recorded, that " the first place of meeting
that ever the Protestant lords of Scotland had for
the covenante and refoimatione was at the kirk of
Baith." Yet it appears from the same record — of
which a long and curious extract is given in the New
Statistical account — that this kirk was long neglected
after the Reformation, and being unsupplied by any
minister, the parishioners were accustomed to as-
semble "to heere a pyper play upone the Lord's
daye, which was the daye of their profaine mirth,
not being in the workes of their calling."
BEAULY, a village in the parish of Kilmoraek,
Inverness-shire, on the north side of the river Beau-
ly, at its confluence with Loch Beauly ; 166 miles
north by west of Edinburgh, and 12J west of Inver-
ness. It was the market-town of the old barons of
Lovat. In the immediate neighbourhood, near the
brink of the river, are the remains oi the old priory
of Beauly, which was founded by Bisset of Lovat,
in 1230, for monks of the order of Valliscaulium.
The Frasers, Chisholms, Mackenzies of Gairloch, and
several other families, have their burial-place here.
— About 2 miles west of Beauly are the celebrated
falls of Kilmorack : which see.
BEAULY (The), a river of Inverness-shire,
principally formed by the union of the Farrer from
Glen Farrer, and the Glass river which gives name
to the entire strath through which the Beauly flows.
These two streams unite at Erchless castle; and the
conjoined streams then flow in a winding course of
about 10 miles in length, and with frequent narrowings
and widenings, north-east, to Loch Beauly. The
road from Inverness to Beauly is carried across this
river by a bridge of 5 arches, with a waterway of
240 feet, known as the Lovat bridge, and built by
the Parliamentary commissioners in 1810. There is
an excellent salmon-fishery at the mouth of the
Beauly. The river is navigable by ships of about
50 tons burden as Jar as the village of Beauly.
BEAULY (Loch), the upper basin, or inner
division of the Moray frith, into which the Caledo-
nian canal flows. Its northern shores are in Ross-
shire; the southern, in lnverness-shire. From Kes-
sock ferry to the mouth of the Beauly river it is 7
miles in length; its greatest breadth is about 2
miles. The shores are low, and well-cultivated.
BF.DRULE, a parish situated in the centre of
Roxburghshire ; in length from north to south, up.
wards of 4 miles, and in breadth from east to west
between 2 and 3. It is bounded by the parish of
Jedburgh on the east, by Abbotrule — now annexed
to 1-Iobkirk and Southdean — on the south, by Hob-
kirk and Cavers, from which it is, for the most part,
divided by the Rule on the west; and by Minto and
Ancrum on the north-west and north, from which it
is separated by the Teviot. It is somewhat of an
oval figure, and consists of neirly an equal quantity
of arable, pasture, and muir-l,ind. There were an-
ciently four villages in this paiish, all which are now
much decayed, viz. Bedrule to the west, Newton to
the north-west, Rewcastle to the north-east, and
Fulton to the south-west, from the centre of the
parish. The chief of the family of Turnbull — a
branch of the very ancient family of Rule — had his
principal residence at Bedrule castle in ancient times.
This stronghold is pleasantly situated behind the
church, on the bank of the river, — a situation from
which are seen distinctly to the north-west, the
most elevated tops of some of the hills near Ettrick
and Yarrow, and the Eildons near Melrose abbey ;
the Reidswyre to the south-east; and south-wtst-
ward, the same frontier tract whence the Liduel
derives it source, which, after uniting with the Ewes
and the Esk, falls into the Solway frith. The view
is more confined towards the east and the west, yet
in this direction are seen the tops of the Duiuan and
Ruberslaw hills, the former having an elevation of
1,031 feet; the latter of 1,419 feet above sea-level.
The castle of Bedrule no longer exists. Newton
was anciently the property of a family of the sur-
name of Ker, who appear to have been cadets of
Fernihirst. There was also a house of strength
here, now likewise demolished; but the beautiful
avenues of venerable trees still remaining bespeak
to the passing traveller something of the consequence
and taste of its former inhabitants. Rewcastle,
situated upon a more elevated ground than either
Bedrule or Newton, is considered by some as a place
of great antiquity. Indeed, it is said, that the courts
of justice were originally held here, and afterwards
removed to Jedburgh. Of Fulton there are now
scarcely any vestiges of its ancient consequence left,
except some remains of its tower. There are ves-
tiges of a regular encampment, on an elevated ground
almost at an equal distance between Bedrule and
Newton; from its figure it appears to have been
British. There is another, at the distance of about
half-a-mile to the eastward, which seems to have
been Roman. There is abundance of freestone in
the parish, of different kinds, red and white, both of
excellent quality. Mainslaws quarry not only sup-
plies Jedburgh and the neighbouring country, but
stone from thence is also transported to the town of
Hawick, and sometimes a considerable way beyond
it. A branch of the great road from London to
Edinburgh passes through the southern part of tile
parish ; the great road between Berwick and Car
lisle directs its course through the northern part.
The Dunian, or Hill of John, merits particular no
tice, not so much from its own height or magnitude,
as that from its remarkable situation it is plainly
seen in all directions, particularly over that vast
tract of country comprehending what were formerly
the middle and eastern marches, or frontiers of the
two kingdoms, extending from the western extrem-
ity of the Reidswyre, to the German ocean, and
overlooking, in a singularly commanding prospect,
an immense extent of classical ground, celebrated in
poetry and song, and memorable in the page of mar-
tial history. " Near, and eastward below, the spec-
tator views, as it were in a bason, the town of Jed-
burgh, distinguished by the venerable ruins of its
formerly rich and magnificent abbey. At a greater
BEE
119
BEI
distance, to the north-west, and on the opposite side
of the Teviot, as in an amphitheatre opening to the
south, the eye is struck with the plain yet elegant
modern house of Minto, distinguished as the birth-
place of many eminent patriots, statesmen, and legis-
lators. To the south-east, and at a still farther
distance, appears the house of Edgerston, distin-
guished for the fidelity, prowess, and loyalty of its
inhabitants. Westwards are seen the beautiful
windings of the wooded Rule, where it issues in
three streams from the lofty mountains, the Not o'
the Gate, Fana, and Wind burgh, to where its rapidly
rolling flood mixes with the Teviot, opposite to the
castle of Fatlips, which is most romantically situated
north of that river, almost in a line with the course
of the Rule, on the summit of the easternmost and
most picturesque of the Miiito craigs." Population,
in 1801, 260; in 1831, 309. Houses 51. Assessed
property, in 1815, £2,222. Valued rental £3,475
13s. 4d. Scots. — This parish is in the presbytery of
Jedburgh, and synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Pa-
tron, Hume of Newmills. Minister's stipend £148
9s. 8il. Schoolmaster's salary £26, with fees. Aver-
age number of scholars 28. A sum of 500 merks
was mortified to the poor of the barony of Bedrule
in 1695, by William Ramsay in Bedrule mill, and
Margaret Turnbull, his wife. Mrs. Mary Ann
Stevenson, relict of the Rev. James Borland, mor-
tified £100 Scots to the poor of this parish.
BEE (Loch), a large irregular inlet of the sea,
in the northern part of the island of South Uist. It
is nearly connected with Loch Skiport on the east-
ern side of the island, by a long narrow arm running
along the eastern base of Ben Phorster.
BEEMEN, a rocky islet lying in the middle of
the frith of Forth, about a mile to the westwards of
Inch Garvie.
BEG, a hamlet above Allanton, in the parish of
Galston, Ayrshire, where Sir William Wallace de-
feated and slew Fenwick, the English governor of
Ayr.
BEG LIE (Wicks of), a celebrated pass in the
Ochils, in the parish of Dion, in Perthshire, about
3£ miles to the west of Abernethy, and a little to the
west of the Great road leading from Queensferry to
Perth, through Glenfarg. Sir Walter Scott, in the
opening chapter of ' St. Valentine's Day,' in the
second series of the ' Chronicles of the Canongate,'
describes this spot as commanding a matchless view
of "the fair city of Perlh," and its beautiful envi-
rons ; but the truth is, that no part of Perth, or its
Inches, nor even the stupendous rock of KinnouU,
can be seen from the Wicks properly so called,
■ — the beautiful and picturesque hill of Moredun
or Moncrieff, completely intercepting the view of
any of these objects. The view from the Wicks,
however, is most magnificent, and well-repays the
labour of the ascent and circuit. Immediately be-
neath is stretched out the delightful vale of Strath-
erne, with the river from which it takes its name
winding along till it loses itself in the Tay ; while
to the right, the whole extent of that garden of Scot-
land, the carse of'Gowrie, is in full view, with the
expansive estuary of the Tay even to its confluence
with the ocean, — not to mention the innumerable
objects of minor interest which lie scattered on the
fore-ground, and the magnificent range of the Gram-
pians in the farthest distance. It is not, however,
until the traveller on this line of road arrive at a
place called Cloven Crags, 4 miles nearer Perth, and
immediately adjoining the west end of Moredun,
that, the view described in the novel breaks upon his
astonished sight; or that the scene in the direction
of Perth, however beautiful, excites the emotion of
wonder, or could have called forth the exclamation
of the Romans. The mistake appears to have arisen
from the author having in his memory combined the
views from both stations; and when we consider that
both possess many points in common, — are both on
the same road, and within a few miles of the other,
— and that Scott's recollections were those of more
than half-a-century's wear and tear, the mistake is
very naturally accounted for.
BEILD, a hamlet, inn, and post-office station in
the parish of Tweedsmuir, shire of Peebles, 35 miles
south-south-west of Edinburgh.
BEIN. See Ben.
BEITH, a parish in the county of Ayr, district
of Cunningham; with the exception of a small por-
tion which belongs to Renfrewshire, on the border
of which it is situated. It extends about 7 miles in
length, from east to west ; and its average breadth
is about 4 miles. The land rises by a gradual ascent
from south to north. On the northern boundary there
is a small ridge of hills whose summits are elevated
about 400 feet above the lowest ground in the par-
ish, or 500 feet above the level of the sea. It is
bounded on the north by Ivilbimie and Lochwinnoch
parishes; on the east by Lochwinnoch and Neilston;
on the south by Dunlop; and on the west by Dairy.
The superficial area of the parish is 11,000 acres.
The valued rent, of that part of the parish which
lies in Ayrshire, is £6,115 14s. 2d. Scotch; and that
of the portion in Renfrewshire, £163 6s. 8d. The
amount of assessed property, in 1815, was £10,054.
The real rent is believed to be in some places six
times, and perhaps in others — owing to their vicinity
to the town of Beitb, the richness of the soil, or the
high cultivation of the lands — even twelve times the
valued rent. The subdivision of property is more
remarkable in this and the neighbouring parishes
than perhaps in any other part of Scotland. The
small landholders generally reside upon their own
property. Rents, in this parish, are paid chiefly from
the dairy. The great road from Glasgow, by Pais-
ley, to Irvine, Ayr, and Fortpatrick, passes through
the town of Beith ; and the Ayrshire railway crosses
between Kilbirnie and Lochwinnoch lochs. Great
difficulty was experienced in carrying forward the
line at this point owing to the soft nature of the soil.
It is supported on pile- work. Population, in 1801,
3,103; in 1831, 5,052, besides 65 in that portion of the
parish which is in Renfrewshire. Houses in Ayrshire
605; in Renfrewshire 9 About the time of the
Revolution, or rather earlier, the kirk-town of Beith
is said to have consisted of only five dwelling-houses
and the minister's manse. In 1759, there were 700
examinable persons in the town ot Beith. and upwards
of 800 in the country-part of the parish. In 1788,
the town contained nearly 1,500 examinable persons.
Its present population is nearly 3,000. About the
time of the union of the two kingdoms, a trade in
linen cloth was introduced into this place, which
became so considerable that the Beith markets were
frequented by merchants from the neighbouring
towns every week. About the year 1730, the linen
business, which had greatly declined, was succeeded
by a considerable trade in linen-yarn. The Beith
merchants purchased the yarn made in the country
around, and sold it to the Paisley and Glasgow manu-
facturers. This trade, when carried to its greatest
extent, about the year 1760, is supposed to have
amounted to £16,000 sterling yearly; and though it
has long been upon the decline, linen yarn is still a
considerable article of merchandise. From 1777 to
1789, the manufacture of silk gauze was carried on
to a great extent in this place. There are three
principal fairs annually, and a weekly market upon
Friday. There is often a fine show of horses in the
Beith markets, especially on St. Tennant's day, or
BEL
120
BEL
August 30th, and on several Friers in the beginning
of spring. This town is li miles west of Paisley;
5 east of Dairy; and 4 south of Dunlop The parish
of Beith, anciently a vicarage, is in the presbytery of
Irvine, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. The Karl
ofEglinton is patron. The stipend is .£251 5s. lid.,
with a manse, and a glebe of the annual value of
£130. Unappropriated teinds £447 18s. 9d. The
old glebe — upon which a part of the town now
stands— was exchanged in 1727, by contract between
the Earl of Eglinton, the presb_\tery of Irvine, and
the incumbent, for a small farm near the town of
Beith, consisting of 31 acres 3 roods. A new and
handsome parish church was built in 1807; sittings
1,250. It would appear, that the old church was
built soon after the Reformation. The third minis-
ter of Beith, after the Revolution, was Dr. William
Leechman, principal of the University of Glasgow, in
1736 ; who, in 1744, was succeeded by Dr. John Woth-
erspoon, afterwards president of Princetown college,
New Jersey. According to a survey made in 1835-6,
there were 3,457 persons in this parish belonging
to the Establishment, and 1,520 belonging to other
denominations. — A Relief church was founded here
in 1784; sittings 849. Stipend £120, with manse,
glebe, and some other emoluments A United Se-
cession congregation was established in 1759. Church
rebuilt in 1816; sittings 498. Stipend £105, with
manse and garden. — The parochial schoolmaster has
the minimum salary, with fees ; and about 150
pupils. There are besides 8 private schools within
the parish, attended by about 350 children. — Before
the Reformation, there were two chapels for public
worship in this parish; one where the present church
now stands, and the other upon the lands of Tree-
horn, one end of which remains entire. This chapel,
witu two acres of land adjoining to it, belonged to
the monastery of Kilwinning, as appears from a char-
ter under the great seal, dated 1594. — Kilbirnie
loch, which lies at the west end of this parish, is
something more than a mile long, and about half-a-
mile broad. It contains trouts, pikes, perches, &c,
and is frequented in hard winters by aquatic birds
of various kinds. The writer of the first Statistical
account of this parish suggested that a navigable
canal might easily be carried across the country, from
the Clyde below Paisley, to the sea at Irvine or
Saltcoats, a distance of about 20 miles, through a
narrow strath, running in that direction most of the
way. In the middle of this strath stands the loch
of Kilbirnie, about an equal distance from each end
of the proposed canal, and it occupies also nearly the
highest ground between them. A stream runs from
the north end of this loch into the Clyde below
Paisley ; and the water of Garnock, running in an
opposite direction, passes by the other end of it,
and empties itself into the sea at Irvine. The fall,
from the north end of Kilbirnie loch to Clyde, is
calculated to be about 95 feet, and the declivity to-
wards the sea cannot be much more. The whole
of this strath lies between the Kilbirnie hills on the
north, and the rising uplands of Beith and Loch-
winnoch parishes on the south ; and is thought to
have been at one time covered with water, forming
an extensive lake, of which Kilbirnie and Lochwin-
noch lochs, at the two extremities, are the remains.
BELHAVEN, a village in the shire of Hadding-
ton, and parish of Dunbar; within the parliamentary
boundaries of which burgh it is included, though
distant from it nearly one mile to the west. It is
intersected by the Great post-road from Edinburgh
to Berwick, and is close upon the sea, at the bottom
of a small bay which in ancient times formed the
haven of Dunbar. It gives the title of Lord to a
branch of the family of Hamilton. In 1647, Sir
John Hamilton of Broomhill was created Lord Bel-
haven and Stenton. The title is now borne by a
descendant of Hamilton of W'ishaw. A strong sul-
phurous spring has recently been discovered here.
It contains sulphur and hydrogen gas ill considerable
quantity; the muriates of lime and soda; and sulphate
and muriate of magnesia both in large quantity.
BELHELVIE, a parish in the shire and district
of Aberdeen; bounded on the north by Foveran;
on the east by the German ocean ; on the south by
Old Machar; and on the west by New Machar. Its
greatest length is 6 miles ; greatest breadth 5. A
great part of this parish formerly belonged to the
Earl of Panmure, on wdiose forfeiture in 1715, it
was purchased by the York Building company. In
1782, it was again sold, by order of the court of ses-
sion, in sixteen different lots, since which partition
a rapid improvement has taken place on the district.
There is a great deposit of serpentine, or Portsoy
maible, called also Verde d'Ecosse, near Milldens in
this parish, about 6 miles from Aberdeen. Popula-
tion, in 1801, 1,428; in 1831, 1,615. Houses 350.
Assessed property, in 1815, £3,590. — This parish,
formerly a rectory belonging to the chapter of Aber-
deen, is in the presbytery and synod of Aberdeen.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend £179 12s. 10d., with
a manse, and glebe of the value of £10. A part of
the church is very old. An addition was made to
it in 1690 ; and it was repaired in 1786 and 1790 ;
sittings 519 There is a United Secession congre-
gation at Shiels. Church built in 1791; sittings
330. Stipend £72, with a house and garden. —
Schoolmaster's salary £27 10s., with about £16
10s. fees, and house and garden. There are also
three private schools within this parish.
BELL-ROCK, a reef in the German ocean, for
merlv called The Scape, and the Inch Cape, situated
in 56° 26' N. lat. ; and 2° 23' W. long. ; about
12 miles south-east of Arbroath, and 30 north-
west of St. Abb's Head ; in the direct track of
navigation, to vessels entering either the frith of
Forth or the frith of Tay, and formerly much
dreaded by the mariner as the most dangerous spot
on the eastern coast of Scotland, or perhaps upon
the whole coast of Great Britain. The rock is a
red sandstone apparently of the same formation with
the Redhead in Forfarshire, from which it is 11
miles distant. Its angle of inclination with the hori-
zon is about 15°, and it dips towards the south-east.
The reef is altogether about 2,000 feet in length,
of which at spring-tide ebbs a portion of about 427
feet in length, by 230 in breadth, is uncovered to a
height of about 4 feet ; but at high water the whole
is covered to the depth of 12 feet. At low water
of spring-tides, and at the distance of 100 yards all
round the rock, there are about 3 fathoms water.
The lower parts of the rock are covered with fuci ;
seals frequent it at low water, when it also becomes
the haunt of gulls, shags, and cormorants. In for-
mer times, mariners were warned of their proximity
to this perilous reef by the booming of a hell, which
one of the abbots of Arbroath had caused to be at-
tached to the rock in such a way as to be tolled
by the waves when the rock itself was covered.
There is a tradition, that the bell was wantonly
cut adrift by a Dutch pirate, whose vessel soon after-
wards went to pieces on this very reef. Southey
has made a fine ballad of this story, the insertion of
which will perhaps gratify many readers :
14 No Btir on the air — no swell on the sea,
The ship was still as she might be ;
The sails from heaven received no motion ;
The keel was steady in the ocean ;
With neither sign nor sound of shock.
The waves flowed o'er ilie inch-Cape rock
BELL-ROCK.
121
Sn little they rose, so little they fell,
They did not move the Inch-Cape bell.
The pious abbot of Aberhrothork
Had placed that hell on the Inch-Cape rock:
On the waves of the storm it floated and swung,
And louder and louder its warning" rung-.
"Wlien the rock was hid l> y the tempest swell,
The mariners heard the warning bell,
And then they knew tliH perilous rock.
And blessed the abbot of AberbrotliocV.
The sun in heaven shone bright and gay,
All things looked joyful on that day ;
The sea-birds screamed as they skimmed around,
And there was pleasure in the sound ;
The float of the loch-Cape hell was seen,
A darker spot on the ocean green.
Sir Ralph the Rover walked the deck,
And he fixed his eye on the darker speck.
He felt the cheering power of spring; —
It m;ide him whistle — it made him sing:
H13 heart was mirthful to excess,
But the Rover's mirth was wickedness ;
His eye was on the hell and float,—
Quoth he, ' My men, put down the boat.
And row me to the Inch-Cape rock, —
I'll plague the priest of Aberbrothock !'
The boat was lowered, the boatmen row,
And to the Inch-Cape rock they go.
Sir Ralph leant over from the boat,
Arid cut the bell from off the float.
Down sunk the bell with a gurgling sound ;
The hubbies rose, and hurst around.
Quoth he, ' Who next comes to ihe rock
Wont bless the priest of Aberbrothock!*
Sir Ralph the Rover sailed away;
He scoured the sea for many a day;
And now grown rich with plundered store.
He steers his way for Scotland's shore.
So thick a haze o'erspread the sky,
They could not ^ee the 8 tin on high ;
The wind had blown a fjale all day ;
At evening it hath died away.
On deck the Rover takes Ills stand,
So dark it is they see no land.
Ouoth he, ' It will be brighter soon,
For there's the dawn of the rising moon.1
* Canst hear,' said one, ' the breakers roar?
For yonder, me thinks-, should be the shore.
Now, where we are, 1 cannot tell, —
1 wish we heard the Inch-Cape bell!*
They heard no sound— the swell is strong.
Though the wind hath fallen they drift along,
Till the vessel strikes with a shivering Mmck,
' Oh heavens! it ii the Inch-Cape rock!'
Sir Ralph the Rover tore his hair,
And cursed himself in his despair.
The waves rush in on every side j
The ship sinks fast beneath the tide ; —
Down down, they Bink in watery graves,
The masts are hid beneath the waves!
Sir Ralph, while waters rush around,
Hears still an awful, dismal sound j
For even in his dying fear
That dreadful sound assails his ear,
As if below, with the Inch-Cane bell,
The devil rang his funeral knell.*'
It was not until the year 1786, that a lighthouse
board for Scotland was organized. The chief lights
on the Scottish coast at this period were on the isle
of May in the frith of Forth, and on the Little Cum-
brae isle in the frith of Clyde: at both these stations,
open coal-fives, placed in elevated choffers, were ex.
hibited to the mariner. About the year 1800, the
commissioners began to contemplate the erection of
a lighthouse on the Bell rock. In 1806, they were
authorized by act of parliament to proceed with the
building, and operations were commenced in 1807
under the direction of Mr. Stevenson, whose plans
had received the approbation of Mr. Rennie the
celebrated engineer. The execution of the work
occupied about four years, and the expense was
^£61,331 9s. 2d., toward which Government lent a
sum of .£30,000. The height of the lantern above
high water is 90 feet; and the light — which is re-
volving, and bright and red alternately — is seen at
the distance of 14 miles in clear weather. The
reflectors — which measure 24 inches over the lips
consist of copper coated with silver, and formed into
a parabolic curve of exquisite mathematical precision.
In erecting this light-house, the first object was
to moor a vessel as near the Bell-rock as she could
ride with any degree of safety, to answer the double
purpose of a floating-light, and of a store-ship for
lodging the workmen employed on the rock. This
vessel measured SO tons. She had three masts, on each
of which a lantern was made to collnpse and to tra-
verse, which distinguished this light from the double
and single lights on the coast. Under the deck, she
was entirely fitted up for the accommodation of the
seamen and artificers, with holds for provisions and
necessaries. Thus furnished, she was moored about
2 miles from the rock, in a north-east direction, in
22 fathoms water, with a very heavy cast-iron an-
chor resembling a mushroom, and a malleable iron
chain, to which the ship was attached by a very,
strong cable. In this situation, the floating light
was moored in the month of July, 1S07, and remained
during the whole time the house was building, and
until the light was exhibited in February, 1811,
when she was removed. — The bill for the erection
of the lighthouse passed late in the session of 1806,
and during the following winter, the necessary steps
were taken to have every thing in readiness to com-
mence operations at the rock at the proper season. A
work-yard, upon a lease of seven years, was provided
at Arbroath, where shades for hewing the stones, and
barracks for lodging the artificers, when they landed
from the rock, were erected. Vessels for conveying
the stones from the quarries to the work-yard, and
from thence to the rock, were hired or built; and upon
the 17th of August, 1807, the operations at the rock
commenced. But little, however, was got done to-,,
wards preparing the rock for the site of the building
till the year following: the chief object of this sea-
son^ work being to get some temporary erection on
the rock to fly to in case of an accident befalling any
of the attending boats. As the rock was accessible
only at low water of spring-tides, and as three hours
was considered a good tide's work, it became neces-
sary to embrace every opportunity of favourable
weather, both under night by the help of torch-
light, and upon Sundays; for the water had no
sooner begun to cover the rock, than the men were
obliged to collect their tools, and betake them-
selves to the boats, which, when the wind shifted
suddenly, were with great difficulty rowed to the
floating- light. By the latter end of October, the
work for the season was brought to a close, after
erecting a beacon, which consisted of twelve beams
of wood forming a common base of 36 feet, with 50
feet of height; the whole being strongly held to the
rock by batts and chains of iron. The upper or
third compartment of this beacon was used as a bar-
rack for the artificers while the work was in pro-
gress; on the second floor, which was fixed at the
height of 25 feet from the rock, the mortar was pre-
pared, and a smith's forge erected for sharpening the
tools used in preparing the rock. On several occa-
sions the violence of the sea lifted this floor, but
none of the batts were shaken, and it remained on the
rock till the summer of 1812, when it was removed.
To the erection of this beacon, the rapidity with which
the lighthouse was got up is chiefly to be ascribed.
It is extremely doubtful, indeed, if ever it would have
been accomplished, without some such expedient, — .
certainly not without the loss of many lives; for in a
work of this nature, continued for a series of years,
it is wonderful that only one life was lost on the
rock, by a fall from a ropedadder when the sea ran
high, and another at the mooring-buoys, by the up-
setting of a boat. — The operations of the second
season were begun at as early a period as the wea-
ther would permit. The risk and often excessive
fatigue which occurred every tide, in rowing the
boats to and from the rock to the floating-light,
BEL
122
BEL
made it necessary to have a vessel which, in blowing-
weather, could be loosened from her moorings at
pleasure, and brought to the lee-side of the rock,
where she might take the artificers and attending boats
on board. A new vessel of SO tons was accordingly
provided, and named The Sir Joseph Banks, in com-
pliment to that worthy baronet, who, ever ready in
the cause of public improvement, had lent his aid in
procuring the loan from government for carrying this
work into execution. Through much perseverance
and hard struggling with the elements, both during
day and night-tides, the site of the lighthouse was
got to a- level, and cut sufficiently deep into the
rock. Part of the cast-iron railways for conveying
the stones along the rock was also got ready ; on
the 10th July, 1808, the foundation-stone was laid;
and by the latter end of September, the building-
operations were brought to a conclusion for the sea-
son, the first four courses of the lighthouse having
been completed. A stock of materials being pro-
cured from the granite quarries of Aberdeenshire,
for an outside -casing to the height of 30 feet, and
from the freestone quarries of Mylnfield near Dun-
dee, for the inside and upper walls, a number of
masons were kept in the work-yard at Arbroath,
and every preparation made during the winter-
months for the work at the rock against next sea-
son. The stones were wrought with great accuracy,
laid upon a platform course by course, numbered
and marked as they were each to lie in the building,
and then laid aside as ready for shipping, — a part of
the work which was performed with wonderful dex-
terity, for the vessels were generally despatched with
their cargoes on the tide following that of their
arrival At the commencement of the operations in
April, 1809, the four courses built during the pre-
ceding season were found to be quite entire, not
having sustained the smallest injury from the storms
of winter. In the arrangements for. the work, the
first thing to be done was to place the moorings for
the various vessels and boats employed in attending
the rock and landing the materials; the machinery
for receiving the stones from the praam-boats was
also erected, and cranes for laying the stones in their
places upon the building. With an apparatus thus
appointed, the lighthouse was got to the height of
3U feet by the month of September, 1809, when the
work was again left off during the winter-months.
- — Early in the spring of 1810, the building was
resumed, but with very faint hopes of bringing the
whole to a close in the course of that year: however,
not a single stone was lost or damaged, and, by the
mouth of December every thing was got into its
place; and the interior having been finished, the
light was exhibited, for the first time, on the night
of the 1st of February, 1811.
The foundation-stone of the lighthouse is nearly
on a level with the low water of ordinary spring-tides ;
consequently the lower part of the building is about
15 feet immersed in water when the tide has flowed
to its usual height at new and full moon. But dur-
ing the progress of the work, the sea-spray has been
observed to rise upon the building to the height of
80 feet, and upon one occasion to 90 feet, even in the
month of July. The building is of a circular form,
measuring 42 feet diameter at the base, from which it
diminishes as it rises, so as to measure only 13 feet
at the top where the light-room rests: including
which, its height is altogether 115 feet. To the
height of 30 feet it is entirely solid, excepting a
drop-hole of 10 inches in diameter for the weight of
the machinery which moves the reflectors. The
ascent to the door — which is placed at the top of
the solid — is by a kind of rope-ladder. A narrow
passage leads from the door to the staircase, where
the walls are 7 feet in thickness : at the top of the
staircase, which is 13 feet in height, the walls get
thinner, and diminish gradually to the top. Above
the staircase, the ascent to the different apartments
is by means of wooden-ladders; and the remaining
57 feet of masonry is divided by five stone floors
into rooms for the light-keepers, and stores for the
light. The three lower apartments have each two
small windows, while the upper rooms have each
four windows; and the whole are provided with
strong shutters to defend the glass against the sea
in storms. The two first courses of the building
are entirely sunk into the rock; the stones of all the
courses are dove-tailed and let into each other, in
such a manner as that each course of the building
forms one connected mass; and the several courses
are attached to each other by joggels of stone and
oaken trenails, upon the plan of the Eddystone light-
house. The cement used at the Bell-rock was a
mixture of pozzolana earth, sharp sand, and lime;
which last was brought from Aberthaw in Wales,
where the lime for the Eddystone lighthouse was
got. Round the balcony of the light -room, there is a
cast-iron rail, curiously wrought like net-work, and
resting on bats of brass. The light-room is 12 feet
diameter, and 15 feet in height, made chiefly of cast-
iron, with a copper roof. The windows are glazed
with plates of polished glass, one quarter of an inch
thick, and measuring 2 feet 6 inches by 2 feet 3
inches. The light is from oil, with Argand burn-
ers, placed before the reflectors already noticed.
That the Bell-rock light may be distinguished from
all others on the coast, the reflectors are ranged upon
a frame which is made to revolve upon a perpendi-
cular axis once in three minutes. Before some ot
the reflectors are placed shades of red coloured glass ;
so that the effect produced in each revolution of the
frame with the reflectors, is a light of the natural
appearance, and a light with the rays tinged red,
with intervals of darkness between the lights. Dur-
ing the continuance of thick and foggy weather, two
large bells are tolled night and day by the same
machinery which moves the lights ; and as these
bells may be heard in moderate weather considerably
beyond the limits of the rock, the mariner may be
advertised of his situation in time to put about his
vessel before any accident can happen. When these
works were begun, it was a very common saying,
that although the Bell-rock lighthouse were built,
(which it never would be,) no one would be found
hardy enough to live in it. The sequel has, how-
ever, shown the fallacy of such a supposition; for
no sooner was the house ready for possession, than
numerous applications were made for the situation.
Of these applicants, a principal light-keeper and three
others were nominated, and they took up their abode
in the building at Martinmas, 1810; each, in his
turn, gets ashore at the end of every six weeks, and
remains a fortnight, when he goes off to the light-
house again. The pay of the light-keepers is about
±'50 per annum, with provisions while they are at the
lighthouse ; but ashore they provide for themselves.
At Arbroath, there are buildings erected in which
each keeper has apartments for the accommodation
of his family; and, connected with this establish-
ment, there is a very handsome signal -tower, 50 feet
in height, in which an excellent achromatic telescope
is kept, and signals arranged with the people at the
rock for the attending-vessel: this vessel is about
50 register tons, and attends also on the isle of
Mav and Inchkeith light-houses.
BELL'S MILLS, a village on the Water of
Leith, in the immediate neighbourhood of Edin-
burgh, on the Queensf'erry road. It is a curious
stragglingly built village, but receives its name from
BEL
123
BEN
very extensive flour mills which have long existed
here.
BELLIE,* a parish partly in Moray, and partly
in Banff shire ; extending from south to north nearly
6 miles ; and from east to west almost 4. It is
hounded on the north by the Moray frith; on the
south-east by Rathven anil Boharm ; and on the west
by the Spey. A considerable portion of this area,
to about 4 miles from the sea, is contained with-
in the ancient banks of the river Spey, which has
greatly shifted its channels at different periods. At
Gordon castle, which lies between the old and the
new course of the river, these banks are near a mile
distant from each other ; but they gradually widen
in their approach to the sea, and where the river
falls into the frith, are nearly 2 miles asunder. This
district suffered severely during the great floods in
1829. Gordon castle, well known to be one of
the noblest palaces in Britain, and which attracts the
notice of all travellers, will be described in a separ-
ate article in this work. About a mile north of
Gordon castle, and 3 south of the frith, stood the
old parish-church of Bellie, now translated to the
town of Fochabers: which see. There is a capital
salmon-fishery here upon the Spey. It extends,
from Speymouth, about 5 miles. Population, in
1801, of that part of the parish which is in Banff,
1,802; and in 1831, 1,151; of that part in Moray,
in 1831, 1,281. Assessed property of the former
division, in 1815, .£8,960; of the latter, £2,282.
Houses in Banffshire, 218; in Moray, 273 This
parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presbytery of
Strathbogie, and synod of Moray. Fatron, the duke
of Richmond. Stipend £173 16s. 2d., with a manse,
and a glebe of the value of £33. Schoolmaster's
salary £34 4s. 4Jd., with a proportion of Dick's be-
quest, and about £20 school-fees. Average number
of scholars 45. There were, in 1834, eight private
schools within this parish, attended by about 300
children.
BELMONT, me of the Sidlaw hills, in the district
of Stratbmore, rising to an altitude of 759 feet above
sea-level.
BELRINNES. See Benrinnes.
BELTON, an ancient rectory, in the shire of
Haddington, now comprehended in the parish of
Dunbar. It is situated on a small stream, the Biel,
at the distance of 2 miles south-west of the town
of Dunbar.
BENABHRAGIDH, a mountain in the parish of
Golspie, Sutherlandshire, in the vicinity of Dunrobin
castle, rising to 1,300 feet above sea-level. It is
composed of red transition sandstone and breccia.
BENACHALLY, a mountain in the parish of
Clunie, Perthshire, about 5 miles north-east of Bir-
rmm, having an altitude of 1.800 feet, and command-
ing a splendid view of the Stormont : which see.
On its northern side, at an elevation of about 900 feet,
is a lnke about a mile in length, and J mile in breadth.
BENACHOLAIS. See Jura.
BENALDER, a mountain on the borders of In-
verness and Perthshire, on which the unfortunate
Prince Charles Stuart lay concealed several weeks,
till the arrival of the French frigate which conveyed
him from this country.
BENAN, or Bennan, a mountain in the parish
of Straiton, in Ayrshire, about half-a-mile south of
Straiton village. Altitude 1,150 feet.
* " Bellie has been imagined by some to be the Gaelic BeUaidk,
signifying 'broom;' but others, more justly, reckon it a coin-
pound from tiie two Gaelic words beul and ' ailh, meaning ' the
Mouth of the Ford.' This etymology is perfectly natural, as, a
little above the church, there was— till the prodigious flood in
1769 destroyed it, and opened various channels— one of the finest
fords upon the Spev, over which his majesty's army passed with
safety in 174fi, a few days before the battle' of Culloden."— Old
Statistical Account.
BENANOIR, one of the peaks of Jura, having
an altitude of 2,420 feet above sea-level, according
to Pennant, or 2,340 according to Dr. Walker. Pen-
nant ascended this mountainf — which he calls Beiim-
an-6ir, or 'the Mountain of Gold' — and describes
the task as one of much labour and difficulty. The
best ascent, to it is from the bay of the Small isles,
passing Corrabhain, the most precipitous but lowest
of the cluster. It is composed, Pennant savs, " ol
vast stones, slightly covered with mosses near the
base, but all above bare, and unconnected with each
other. The whole seems a cairn, the work of the
sons of Saturn ; and Ovid might have caught his
idea from this hill, had he seen it.
Affectasse ferunt rpgniim celeste gigantes,
Altaque congestos struxisse ad sidera montes.
Gain the top, and find our fatigues fully recompensed
by the grandeur of the prospect from this sublime
spot; Jura itself afforded a stupendous scene of rock,
varied with little lakes innumerable. From the west
side of the hill ran a narrow stripe of rock, termi-
nating in the sea, called the slide of the old hag.
Such appearances are very common in this island
and in Jura, and in several parts of North Britain,
and the north of Ireland, and all supposed to be of
volcanic origin, being beds of lava of various breadths,
from three feet to near seventy. Their depth is
unknown; and as to length, they run for miles to-
gether, cross the sounds, and often appear on the
opposite shores. They frequently appear three or
four feet above the surface of the ground, so that
they are called on that account whin-dikes, forming
natural dikes or boundaries. The fissures were left
empty from earliest times. It is impossible to fix a
period when some tremendous volcanic eruption hap-
pened, like that which of late years infested Iceland
with such fatal effects, and filled every chasm and every
channel with the liquid lava. Such a stream poured
itself into these fissures, and having cooled and con-
solidated, remains evident proofs of the share which
fire had in causing the wondrous appearances we so
frequently meet with and so greatly admire. In a
certain bay in the isle of Mull, there remains a fis-
sure which escaped receiving the fiery stream. The
sides are of granite ; the width only nine or ten
feet; the depth not less than a hundred and twenty.
It ranges north by west, and south by east to a vast
extent: and appears against a correspondent fissure
on the opposite shore. In the Phil. Trans. Tab. iv.
is a view of this tremendous gap, together with the
two stones which have accidentally fell, and remained
hitched near the top of the northern extremity.
These, and numbers of other volcanic curiosities in
the Hebrides, are well-described by Abraham Mills,
Esq. of Macclesfield, who in 1788 visited several of
the islands, and in the lxxxth vol. of the Phil. Trans,
has favoured the public with his ingenious remarks.
To the south appeared Hay, extended like a map
beneath us ; and beyond that, the north of Ireland ;
to the west, Gigha and Car, Cantyre, and Arran,
and the frith of Clyde bounded by Ayrshire; an
amazing tract of mountains to the north-east as far
as Benlomond ; Skarba finished the northern view;
and over the Western ocean were scattered Colonsav
and Oransay, Mull, Iona, and its neighbouring groupe
of isles; and still farther the long extents of Tirev
and Col just apparent. On the summit are several
+ Lord Teignmnuth during his excursion in Scotland in lS2f>
had an interview with the laird of Jura who had accompanied
Pennant on this expedition. " Pennant lie assured me." — says
his lordship— " descended much more happily than he ascended
on the strength of a glass of whisky which he had prevailed on
him to druik, a beverage to which the traveller expressed a
dislike. Mr. Campbell said of Pennant that he derived his in-
formation too much from the lower classes." — ' Sketches,' voA
ii. pp. 335, 336.
BEN
124
BEN
lofty cairns, not tine work of devotion, but idle herds,
or curious travellers. Even this vast heap of stones
was not uninhabited : a hind passed along the sides
full speed, and a brace of ptarmigans often favoured
us with their appearance, even near the summit.
The other paps are seen very distinctly : each infe-
rior in height to this, but of all the same figure,
perfectly mammillary. Mr. Banks and his friends
mounted that to the south, and found the height to be
2,3.59 feet :* but Beinn-an-6ir far over-topped it :
seated on the pinnacle, the depth below was tremen-
dous on every side. The stones of this mountain
are white (a few red), quartzy, and composed of small
grains ; but some are brecciated, or filled with crystal-
line kernels of an amethystine colour. The other
stones of the island that fell under my observation,
were a cinereous slate veined with red, and used
here as a whetstone ; a micaceous sandstone ; and
between the small isles and Ardefin, abundance of
a quartzy micaceous rockstone." •
BENARTHUR. See Arroquhar.
BENAVEN, in the south-west extremity of
Aberdeenshire, one of a noble groupe of mountains
forming the highest of the Grampians. Its altitude
is estimated by Playfair at 3,931 feet; by some
others at 3,967 feet.
BENBECULA, one of the Hebrides, lying be-
tween the islands of North and South Uist, from
the last of which it is separated by a narrow chan-
nel nearly dry at low water. It is a low flat island,
measuring about 8 or 9 miles each way. The soil
is sandy and unproductive. In the interior are sev-
eral fresh water lakes ; and its shores are indented
with an endless variety of bays, and fringed with
islands. " The sea," says Macculloch, *' is here all
islands, and the land all lakes. That which is not
rock is sand; that which is not mud is bog; that
which is not bog is lake ; and that which is not lake
is sea; and the whole is a labyrinth of islands, pen-
insulas, promontories, hays, and channels." This
island is an ancient property of the chiefs of Clan-
ranald.
BENCAIRN, a mountain in Kirkcudbrightshire,
in the parish of Rerwick, rising 1,200 feet above
sea-level.
BENCHOCHAN, a mountain in the parish of
Aberfoyle, Perthshire, rising to the height of 3,000
feet above sea-level.
BENCHONZ1E, a mountain of Perthshire, in
the northern extremity of the parish of Monivaird,
having an altitude, according to Jameson, of 2,923
feet.
BENCLOCH, or Bencleugh, the highest of the
Ochils, in the parish of Tillicoultry, Clackmannan-
shire. It is mostly composed of granite, containing
large crystals of black scheorl. It rises to the height
of 2,420 feet above the level of the Devon, which
runs at its base.
BENCLYBRIC, or Beinchlibrig, the highest
mountain in Sutherlandshire, on the skirts of the
parishes of Lairg and Farr. Its form is conical, and
its altitude about 3,200 feet.
BENCRUACTIAN, a magnificent mountain of
Argyleshire, in the district of Lorn, between Loch
Etive and Loch Awe. It has an elevation of 3,393
feet according to Jameson, or 3,390 feet according
to an admeasurement of Colonel Watson ; and its
base is 20 miles in circuit. Its steepest side is to-
wards the north-east; from the south it rises gently,
and may be ascended with considerable ease. Mac-
culloch says of it : " Compared to Benlomond it is
a giant. ; and its grasp is no less gigantic. From the
bold granite precipices of its sharp and rugged sum-
• This must be Benshianta, or ' the Mountain of Enchant-
ment,' which ia about Gu feet lower.
mit — which is literally a point: — we look down its red
and furrowed sides into the upper part of Loch Etive
and over this magnificent group of mountains, which,
extending northward and eastward, display one of
the finest landscapes of mere mountains in the High-
lands. Its commanding position not only enables us
thus to bring under our feet the whole of this group
as far as Appin and Glenco, and even to Ben Nevis,
but opens a view of the whole of the eastern ocean
of mountains, reaching from Rannoch as far as Ben
Lawers and Benlomond, and, beyond them, to lands
which only cease to be visible because they at length
blend with the sky. So marked also are their char-
acters, so rocky and precipitous their summits, and
so varied their forms, that this landscape excels, in
variety as in picturesque character, all other land-
scapes of mere mountains, excepting perhaps that
from Ben Lair in Ross-shire. The view which it
yields, of the opener country, is not much inferior
to that from Ben Lawers, if indeed it is inferior ;
and, in this respect, it can only be compared with
that mountain and Benlomond. While it looks
down on the long sinuosities of Loch Awe and over
the irregular lands of Lorn, bright with its numerous
lakes, it displays all the splendid bay of Oban and
the Linnhe Loch, with Jura, Isla, and all the other
islands of this coast: commanding, besides, the hori-
zon of the sea, even beyond Tireyand Coll, together
with the rude mountains of Mull and the faint and
blue hilts of Rum and Sky; a scene as unusual as it
is rendered various by the intermixture of land and
water, by the brilliant contrast of these bright and
intricate channels with the dark and misty moun-
tains and islands by which they are separated, and
by the bold and decided forms of all the elements of
this magnificent landscape."
BENDEARG, a mountain in Athole, Perthshire.
Altitude 3,550 feet. See Blair-Athole.
BENDORAN, a mountain in Glenorchy, Argyle-
shire, on the western confines of Perthshire, and a
little to the eastward of the outlet of the Orchy
from Loch Tulla.
BENDOTHY, or Bendochy, a parish in Perth-
shire; bounded on the north by a detached portion
of Blairgowrie parish, and by Alyth ; on the east by
Al)th and Cupar- Angus, from the latter of which it
is separated by the windings of the Isla ; on the
south by Cupar-Angus ; on the west by Blairgowrie
and Rattray. There is a detached portion of the
parish, separated from it, on the north-west, by the
intervention of Alyth and Blairgowrie parishes. Po-
pulation,in 1801, 860; in 1S31,780. Assessed pro-
perty .£4,863. Houses 136. — This parish, formerly a
vicarage, is in the presbytery of Meigle, and synod of
Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown. Stipend
£251 17s. 6d., with a manse, and glebe of the value
of £14. Church repaired in 1752 and 1803; sittings
380. The highland district of this parish has been
assigned to the chapel at Persie : which see. Salary
of parochial schoolmaster £34 4s. 4^1., with about
£10 fees. Average number of pupils 50. There
were three private schools in this parish in November,
1834, each attended upon an average by 76 pupils.
BENGLOE, or Benyglob, a mountain, or rather
ridge of mountains, in Athole, which attains an alti-
tude in some points of 3,690, and according to others
of even 3,725 feet. See Blair-Athole.
BENHOLME, a parish in Kincardineshire, about
3 miles in length, and nearly as much in breadth.
The German ocean bounds it on the south-east;
on the south-west it is bounded by St. Cyrus;
on the north-west by Garvock ; and on the north-
east by Bervie. The face of the country is con-
siderably diversified. Close upon the shore lies
a narrow strip of land almost level with the sea.
BEN
125
BEN
Adjoining to this, a bank or rising ground of con-
siderable height extends the whole length of the
parish. Above this ancient boundary of the ocean
— which is steep in some places, and slopes gently
in others — the ground rises by an unequal ascent
towards the north-west. A chain of little hills,
whose summits are covered with heath, run along
the south-west boundary ; and a piece of rising
ground, called Gourdon hill, which attains an alti-
tude of about 400 feet, terminates the view on the
north-east. The interior parts of the parish consist
of hill and dale. The coast abounds with fish and
shell-fish of various kinds. The census of 1831 re-
turned 28 men as engaged in fishing in this parish.
Some coarse linen is woven in this parish. In so
little repute was farming in this district, before the
year 1712, that the proprietor of Brotherston found
it necessary to give premiums in order to induce
tenants to rent his farms ! To one he gave a pre-
sent of 500 merks, and farm-stocking to the value
of 2,000 merks, free of interest for three years; to
another the same sum in a present, and 3,000 merks
value of stock for his farm, free of interest for four
years. " There is no necessity now," says the writer
of the old Statistical account of this parish, " for
holding out pecuniary temptations to the farmer:
since the above-mentioned period, the rents are
tripled, and numbers are still ready to offer a con-
siderable advance when the lease of a farm expires."
In the New Statistical account it is stated, that the
average rent of land here is £1 12s. per acre, and
that husbandry "is in a state of high improvement."
By a survey of the county, taken in 1774, this par-
ish contains 4,721 English acres, of which nearly a
fifth part was uncultivated at the close of last cen-
tury. About the beginning of the 18th century, the
greatest part of the property within this district be-
longed to the Earl Marischal, whose ancient dominion
in these parts can now only be traced from records
and monumental inscriptions. Not long after that
period, all this parish, except Balandro, formed the
estate of Benholme, and belonged to a proprietor of
the name of Keith, probably a younger branch, or
near relation of the Marischal (amily. It was after-
wards divided among his heirs into four portions,
which now compose different estates of Benholme,
Brotherston, Nether-Benholme, and Knox. The
principal village is the fishing- village of Johnshaven:
which see. Population, in 1801, 1,412; in 1831,
1,441, of whom about 1,020 resided in the village of
Johnshaven. Houses 344. Assessed property £3,957.
— This parish is in the presbytery of Fordun, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patrons, Scott of
Benholme, and Scott of Brotherston. Stipend £232
4s. Id., with a manse, and glebe of the value of £12
10s. Unappropriated teinds £28 4s. 4d. The church
stands nearly in the centre and most agreeable part
of the parish. The old church, an irregular Gothic
building, was taken down in 1832, and a new building
erected on its site, capable of accommodating 750
persons. There is a United Secession church at
Johnshaven, the origin of which is thus accounted for
in the old Statistical report: — " All the inhabitants
ol this parish, except a few who continued their at-
tachment to the Episcopal religion, were regular
attendants on public worship as established in the
Church of Scotland, till about the year 1763. At
that time, the minister's anxiety to improve the
church-music, led him to adopt the more approved
method of singing without intermission, or reading
the line, as it is called. This gave umbrage to many,
who had been accustomed to hear every line separ-
ately given out by the precentor or clerk, before the
congregation joined in the psalm. They were forced
to acknowledge that the psalmody would be im-
proved by singing without interruption; but they
urged, that many who could not read, would, by
that means, be entirely excluded from joining in this
part of public worship. Whether a regard to tile
good of others, was the real, or only the ostensible
cause of this opposition ; or whe'tber it proceeded
from a dread of innovation, they persisted in it.
They remonstrated again and again; and when their
remonstrances were not attended to, abandoned the
church, built one for themselves in Johnshaven, and
invited a minister of the Secession to settle among
them." There are a parochial school, the master
of which has the maximum salary, and six unen-
dowed schools in this parish. — ■ Among the few anti-
quities in this parish, may be mentioned a square
tower, the ancient residence of the family of Ben-
holme, and still entire, though not inhabited. From
its peninsular situation, thickness of walls, and bat-
tlements, this building seems to have been originally
intended for a place of strength. — On the summit of
the nearest hill to the sea, except one, bordering
with the parish of Cyrus, and commanding an exten-
sive prospect, stands a rough stone, in the circum-
ference of a stony circle, commonly called the Cloach
stone. It is more than a foot thick, measures 8
feet along the ground, and rises nearly 6 above its
surface, in an inclined direction towards the north.
Tradition says, a battle was fought near this place,
and the number of flint-heads of arrows, found on
the side of the hill where it stands, affords some
reason to credit this report. Between this and the
coast, a great quantity of human bones has been dug
up, in the course of improving the land, for nearly
the space of a mile along the rising ground above
Johnshaven. The bottom and sides of the graves,
containing these bones, are always lined with rough
stones — On an eminence bordering with Garvock,
called Kinchet, or, more properly, King's Seat hill,
there is a large heap of stones, where, according to
tradition, a king used in ancient times to sit in judg-
ment. Among other complaints here preferred to
him, many were lodged against Melville of Allardice,
at that time sheriff of the county, for his oppression.
The royal judge, either wearied with the complain-
ers, or enraged at the offender, exclaimed, " 1 wish
that sheriff were sodden and supped in brose !" Such
was the savage barbarity of the times, that the ba-
rons, who were little accustomed to the formalities
of a trial, laid hold on these words, and put them
literally in execution. The place where the deed
was perpetrated, at the bottom of the hills, on the
side next Garvock, is not unlike the cavity of a kiln
for drying corn, and still retains the name of the
Sheriff's kettle. The writer of the old Statistical
account thus concludes his notices of this parish:
" About fifty years ago, the excise officer's family
was the only one in Johnshaven that made use of
tea. "When the tea-kettle was carried to the well,
to bring in water, numbers both of children and
grown people followed it, expressing their wonder,
and supposing it to be 'a beast with a horn !' In
those days of simplicity, a watch or an eight-day
clock would have created equal surprise. Now the
tea-kettle has lost the power of astonishing, having
become a necessary piece of furniture among the
meanest: and one can scarcely enter a house where
he is not put in mind of the fleeting of time from
some one comer of it."
BENHOPE, a noble mountain of Sutherland-
shire, towering to the height of 3,150 feet above
sea-level. It extends in a south-west direction along
the vale of Strathmore in the parish of Durness. It
may be approached by the road leading from the
head of Loch Eribol to Loch Naver; or from the
head of Loch Hope, which stretches from its west-
BEN
126
BEN
em base towards Loch Eribol. It is composed of
quartz and prey slate.
BEN HORN, a mountain of Sutherlandshire, in
tbe parish' of Golspie. Altitude 1,712 feet.
BENLAWERS, a mountain of Perthshire, in the
parish of Kenmore, on the north-east side of Loch
Tay. Its altitude is stated by some at 3,944 feet;
by others, at 4,015 feet above sea-level. It is easy
of ascent; so much so, that one may, in perfect
safety, ride to the summit. Benlomond alone can,
probably, compete with this mountain for grandeur
of the view to be obtained from it. But a much
greater variety, and a greater range of country can
be seen from Benlawers ; and it has this advantage,
that it towers over all the neighbouring mountains,
by more than 1,000 feet. Words cannot express the
grandeur and variety of the view from Benlawers ;
but a faint conception of it may be formed from the
extent of country it embraces. Looking to the south,
the lake with all its ornaments of wood and field,
lies at our feet, terminating towards the west in the
rich valley of Killin, and joining eastward with the
splendour of Strath-Tay. Beyond the lake the suc-
cessive ridges of hills embosoming Strath-Earn, lead
the eye to the Ochills and the Campsie fells, and
beyond even to Edinburgh. Dunkeld and its scenery
are also distinctly visible ; and we can make out,
with ease, the bright estuary of the Tay, the long
ridge of the Sidlaw hills, and the plain of Strath-
more. Westward, we trace the hills of Loch Lomond
and Loch Katrine, and, indeed, every marked moun-
tain as far as Oban. Cruachan and Buachaille-Etive
are particularly conspicuous. To the north, She-
challion and its adjoining mountains, with the valley
of the Tummel and Loch-Rannoch, as far as Loch-
Laggan, which appears like a bright narrow line.
In this direction the eye is carried as far as Glencoe
and Bennevis, on the one hand; while, on the other,
Benygloe lifts its complicated summit above the
head of Ferrogon ; and, beyond this the mountains
of Marr and of Cairngorm, at the head of the Dee,
some of them marked with perpetual snow, are the
last that can be traced. This mountain presents a
most interesting field to the botanist. Amongst
other very rare plants the Gentiana nivalis has been
found upon it.
BENLEDI, a mountain of Perthshire, 2 miles
west of Callander, rising to 3,009 feet, according to
some, but according to others — and more correctly
we believe — to only 2,863 feet above sea-level. It
commands an extensive prospect of Stirlingshire and
the windings of the Forth.
BENLOMOND, a mountain renowned in song
and story, situated on the eastern bank of Loch-
lomond, in the parish of Buchanan, in Stirling-
shire, at the south-west extremity of the Grampian
chain. Its altitude has been variously estimated at
3,262, 3,175, and 3,091 feet.* We are inclined to
adopt the second of these admeasurements, which is
that of Mr. Galbraith. [See ' Edinburgh New Phi-
losophical Journal,' vol. vi. p. 126.] In every view,
Benlomond is an object of interesting grandeur.
When approaching it, — whether we advance from the
lake, or from its south-eastern base, — it is impossible
to do so without all the higher feelings of our nature
being excited. The journey to the top is long and
laborious — from the inn at Rowardennan it is about
6 milesf — but the horizon extends at every step, and
* In the 'Beailt.ies of Scotland' its height is stated to be
3.3G2 feet; in Black's ' Picturesque Tourist,' 3,212 feet; in tile
old Statistical account, and in the ' Geography of Great Bri-
tain' published by the Society for the Diffusion of Useful
Knowledge, 1,030 yards.
f "The easiest path lies along; a green ridge, very conspicu-
ous from beluw; but any one who has climbed Buch a moun-
tain, must kuow how greatly its breaks and chasms deceive tile
the labour is richly repaid from the magnificence of
the view which it affords :
It is tbe land of beauty, and of grandeur,
Where looks the cottage out on a domain
The palace cannot boast of. Seas of lakes,
And hills of forests I— Torrents here
Are bounding floods! and there the tempest roams
At large, in all the terrors of its glory !
The lake, with its numerous islands, are spread out
beneath the feet of the traveller; the cities of Edin-
burgh and Glasgow are seen sparkling in the sun-
beam ; the whole county of Lanark, and the rich
vale of the Clyde, with all its towns and villages,
the hill of Tmtock, and the distant mountains of
Cumberland, attract the eye toward the south. To
the west are seen the counties of Renfrew and Ayr,
the frith of Clyde, with the islands of Arran and
Bute, and beyond this the distant Atlantic and the
coast of Ireland; on the east, the county of Stirling,
with the windings of the Forth, the fertile plains of
the Lothians, and the castles of Edinburgh and Stir-
ling; on the north the prospect is awfully sublime,
presenting mountain piled on mountain, — Bencrua-
chan towering above Benvoirlich and all his brethren
in the foreground, — and Bennevis rearing his still
loftier head in the extreme distance, while nearer at
hand are seen,
*' Crags, knolls, and mounds, confusedly hurled,
The fragments of an e_arlier world,
And mountains, that Tike giants stand,
To sentinel enchanted land."
None meet the view, from the base of Benlomond
to the Western ocean. The northern side of this
mountain presents an aspect peculiarly terrific. Here
the mighty mass, which hitherto had appeared to be
an irregular cone placed on a spreading base, sud-
denly presents itself as an imperfect crater, with one
side forcibly torn off, leaving a stupendous precipice
of 2,000 feet to the bottom. Standing on the brink
of this tremendous precipice, from which most tra-
vellers recoil with terror, the spectator is above
the region of the clouds, which ate seen floating in the
atmosphere beneath, or enveloping the sides of the
mountain. The effect of the rainbow, as seen from
bence, is " beautiful exceedingly." But when the
forked or sheeted lightning is beheld flashing below,
and the thunder heard, pealing and reverberating
among the mountains, the awful pomp and majesty
of the scene is heightened in an immeasurable de-
gree; the spectator, overwhelmed with sensations of
grandeur and sublimity, feels as if he had shaken off
for a time this mortal coil and all terrestrial impres-
sions, and were no longer a denizen of this nether
sphere. " In such a situation," says Dr. Stoddart,
" the most sublime sensations cannot be felt, unless
you are alone. A single insulated being, carrying
his view over these vast, inanimate masses, seems to
feel himself attached to them, as it were, by a new
kind of bond; his spirit dilates with the magnitude,
and rejoices in the beauty of the terrestrial objects:
and,
— ' the near heav'ns their own delights impart.' "
In the summer months, this mountain is visited
by strangers from every quarter of the island, as well
as foreigners, who come to view the romantic scenery
of the highlands; the month of September is in gen-
eral accounted the best for ascending it, because from
eye. That which you look toward, as one unbroken surface,
upon your approach appears divided by impassable valleys; an
unheard rill becomes a roaring torrent; and a gentle slope is
found to be an unscaleable cliff. These circumstances rendered
roe unable to reach the top, with the most persevering toil, in
less than three hours. The higher ridges are remarkably
green, and, like most lands in such situations, very wet and
boggy; until you reach the laHt ascent, which is steep, and
formed mostly by hugti fragments of slaty rock, intermixed
with a kind of sparry marble, of very considerable size."-*'
Stoddart's ' Remarks,' vol. i. p. 23i»
BENLOMOND.
127
the cool temperature of the air, the horizon is then
less clouded by vapours than during the more intense
heats of summer. Those who wish to visit the
summit, may either take a boat from Luss to Row-
ardennen, or cross over from lnveruglas, or be fer-
ried over from Tarbet. On a pane of glass, in the
window of this last-mentioned inn, or rather of the
old inn of Tarbet, some verses were written by an
English gentleman who had ascended Benlomond,
and was probably afterwards confined at Tarbet by
rain. Though these verses have been copied into
almost every guide and tour-book, yet as they contain
some very good advice and instruction to those who
wish to ascend the mountain, and at the same time
possess a considerable share of merit, we shall take
the liberty of presenting them to our readers.
Stranger ! if o'er this pane of glass perchance
Thy roving eye should cast a casual glance, —
If taste for grandeur, and the dread sublime,
Prompt thee Renlomond's fearful height to climb, —
Here stop attentive, nor with scorn refuse
The friendly rhyinings of a tavern muse.
For thee the muse this rude inscription plann'd,
Prompted for thee her humble poet's hand.
Heed thou the poet; he thy steps shall lead,
Safe o'er yon towering hill's aspiring head.
Attentive then to this informing lay,
Read how he dictates, as he points the way.
Trust not at first a quick adventurous pace ;
Six miles its top points gradual from the base.
Up the high rise with panting haste I pass'd,
And gain'd the long laborious steep at last.
More prudent thou, when once you pass the deep,
With measur'd pace and slow ascend the steep
Oft stay thy steps, oft taste the cordial drop,
And rest, oh ! rest, long, long upon the top.
There hail the breezes, nor with toilsome haste,
Down the rough slope thy precious vigour waste;
So shall thy wondering sight at once survey.
Vales, lakes, woods, mountains, islands, rocks, and sea ;
Huge hills, that heap'd in crowded order stand,
Stretch'd o'er the northern and the western land ;
Vast lumpy groups! while Ben, who often shrouds
His lofty summit in a veil of clouds,
High o'er the rest displays superior state,
In proud pre-eminence, sublimely great.
One side, all awful, to th' astonished eye
Presents a steep three hundred fathoms high.
The scene tremendous, shocks the startled sense,
In all the pomp of dread magnificence.
All this, and more shalt thou transported see,
Aud own a faithful monitor in me.
Thomas Russell, Oct. 3, H71.
Benlomond is chiefly composed of granite, inter-
spersed with great quantities of quartz. This last
mineral is found near the top, in immense masses,
some of which must weigh several tons; these ap-
pear like patches of snow. upon the mountain, even
when seen from Luss. Considerable quantities of
micaceous schistus are found, even at the top, and
many rocks towards the base of the mountain are
entirely composed of this mineral. Plovers abound
near the middle of the mountain, grouse a little
higher, and near the top ptarmigans are occasionally
seen. To the botanist, Benlomond affords a fund
of great amusement ; as we ascend, we find the
plants we had left below assume a very different ap-
pearance, and some very rare and beautiful species
are found in abundance. The Alchemilla alpina, or
cinqueloil ladies mantle, grows upon- all the upper
part of the mountain. The Sibbaldia proeumbens,
or procumbent silver-weed, distinguished by its tri-
dentate leaves, grows in great quantity, even on the
very summit. The Silene acaulis, or moss catchfly,
the leaves of which form a beautiful green turf, like
a carpet, which is variegated with a fine purple
flower, grows in large patches. The Rubus chamae-
morus, or cloud-berry, is found in great quantities,
about half-way up the south-east side of the moun-
tain : the blossoms of this plant are of a purplish
white, succeeded by a bunch of red berries, which
are ripe in July, and have a flavour by no means
unpleasant. These berries are much esteemed by
many northern nations, but probably for want of
finer fruits. The Laplanders bury them under the
snow, and thus preserve them fresh from one year
to another. They bruise and eat them with the
milk of the rein-deer. The Azalea proeumbens, or
trailing rosebay, the smallest of woody plants, was
first found here by Dr. Stuart, of Luss, but is not
very plentiful. The Trientalis Europaa, or chick-
weed-wintergreen — the only British plant of the
class Heptandria — grows in the woods near the base
of the mountain. The Pinguicula vulgaris, Nar-
thecium ossifragum, and Thymus acinos likewise
abound. Very near the inn of Rowardennen, are to
be found great quantities of the Drosera rotundifolia,
or round-leaved sundew, and Drosera Anglica, or
great sundew. These plants catch flies, by shutting
up their leaves, and crushing them to death ; in this
they resemble the Dioncea muscipula, or American
fly-eater.
At Craigrostan, on the western side of Benlo-
mond, is a cave, to which tradition has assigned the
honour of affording shelter to King Robert Bruce,
and his gallant followers, after his defeat by M'Dou-
gal of Lorn, at Dairy. Here, it is said, the Bruce
passed the night, surrounded by a flock of goats ;
and he was so much pleased with his nocturnal as-
sociates, that he afterwards made a law that all
goats should be exempted from grass mail or rent.
Next day, tradition adds, he came to the Laird ot
Buchanan, who conducted him to the Earl of Len-
nox, by whom he was sheltered for some time, till
he got to a place of safety. Craigrostan was in a
later age the property of the celebrated outlaw, Rob
Roy M'Gregor; and north of it is a cave, said to
have been used by him as a place of refuge.
View from Summit of Ben- Lomond. — From a Painting by Knox.
BEN
128
BEN
BENLTJNDIE, a mountain of Sutherlandshire, in
the parish of Golspie. Altitude 1,464 feet.
BENMACDHU, or Bknnamacduich, or Bek-
macdhuie, one of the Cairngorm groupe of moun-
tains in the south-west corner of Aberdeenshire,
estimated by Jameson at 4.300 feet in altitude ; by
Mr. H. C. Watson at 4,326 feet ; and by others at
4.390 feet. If this latter admeasurement be correct,
this mountain must be higher than Bennevis, hither-
to regarded as the most elevated spot in Great Bri-
tain. The best account we have met with of the
ascent of this mountain, and the prospect from its
summit, is given in ' Chambers's Journal.' [Vol.11,
p. 180.] The writer of the lively article in question,
after informing us that the attempt to ascend a rough
surface, at an angle of about 25°, and to the extent
of some 2,000 or 3,000 feet, is no trifling matter,
goes on to say : " Your eye will teach you at a
glance the most accessible mode of ascent, which
you will find to resemble a great ill-constructed stair
of unhewn blocks of granite, some mile or so in
length. By degrees you are introduced to a different
tract. The heather and long fern no longer impede
your progress ; and you sometimes walk over a deep-
cushioned carpet of alpine mosses, short and stunted,
but rich in variety of colouring, and fresh and moist
from the recently melted snow ; then you pass over
a broad field of snow, hard as ice, and under which,
from a puny archway, trickles some small stream
which feeds the river beneath. In the hottest noon
of a summer-day the summit is cold and wintry; the
various gentle breezes which fan the sides of the
warm valleys will here be found concentrated into
a swirling blast, cold and piercing as if it had sprung
from the sea on a December morning ; then the snow
appears in large patches wherever you look around
you, and the bare surfaces of the rocks are deserted
even by the alpine moss. We know no mountain so
embedded among others as Benmuichdhui. On all
sides it is surrounded ; and the eye, fatigued with
tracing their distant outlines, feels as if the whole
earth were covered by such vast protuberances. Be-
twixt these hills, and over their summits, you will
see the clouds wandering about like restless beings
who have no fixed habitation. Benmuichdhui,
stretching over a considerable space, has many sum-
mits, and presents a vast variety of aspects; but
there is a certain part towards the north-east where
it turns itself into a basin, joining the contiguous
summits of Benaun and Benabourd, and where it
assumes a form peculiarly striking and grim. Here
one rock distinguishes itself from its brethren by
displaying a pointed needle from a summit of vast
height, which appears considerably off the perpen-
dicular, and hangs its head over the glen below.
Betwixt this wild height and another bolder and
broader, there is a deep fissure, down which tumbles
a considerable stream, which, alter forming itself into
Lochaun," descends to join the Spey." Mr. Macpher-
son Grant of Ballindalloch, in a communication to
the editor of the ' Edinburgh New Philosophical
Journal,' gives an interesting account of an atmo-
spheric appearance resembling that of the far-famed
spectre of the Brocken, witnessed by him on this
mountain on the 10th October, 1330, at 3 p.m.
BENMORE, the highest mountain in Mull. It
lies between the head of Loch-ua-keal and Loch
Screidan. Macculloch says: " The ascent is neither
very tedious nor difficult. I found it to be 3,097
feet high. The view is various and extensive.
Staffa, lona, The Treshinish isles, Coll anil Tirey,
with Ulva, Gometra, Colonsa, Eorsa, and other ob-
jects, are seen beautifully diversifying the broad face
» The Loch Avcn described in our woik.
of the western sea, distinct as In a map; while, to
the southward, Scarba and Jura, with the smaller
isles of the Argyllshire const, recede gradually in the
distant haze. The rugged surface of Mull itself,
excludes the objects to the eastward ; but Loch
Screidan forms a beautiful picture beneath our feet;
its long and bright bay deeply intersecting with its
dazzling surface, the troubled heap of mountains."
BENNEVIS, a mountain in the south-west ex-
tremity of Inverness-shire, in 56° 49' N. lat. and 4°
40' W. long., having an altitude, according to Jame-
son, of 4,380 feet. Dr. Macculloch ascended this
mountain from Fort-William, and thus describes it :
" From the rarity of fair weather and a cloudless
sky at Fort- William, and because the distance to
the top of Bennevis is considerable, and the ascent
laborious, it is not often visited- Measuring it as
well as I could by pacing, I found it about eight miles;
the path on the mountain — which is very circuitous
— amounting to about six miles, out of which there
are two of a very steep and laborious ascent. The
perpendicular height is more than 4,000 feet; but it
is exceeded, geometrically, by Ben Muic Dhu, and,
I believe, by others of the mountains of Mar. But
it must be remembered that Bennevis — the Hill of
Heaven — is a much more independent mountain ;
and that, on the west side at least, it rises, almost
immediately, from a plain which is nearly on a level
with the sea. Hence it is, in reality, still the high-
est mountain in Scotland, though not the most
elevated ground ; while its effect to the eye is far
more striking than that of any other, — all the rival
elevations, either springing from high land, or being
entangled among other hills so as to lose their con-
sequence. Its form is, at the same time, heavy and
graceless; particularly from Inverlochy and Loch
Eil, where the eye takes in the whole. That form
is also very peculiar, as if one mountain had been
placed on another ; and this effect, as of a casual
and posterior addition, is rendered still more striking
by the difference in outline and character between
rue two portions. This appearance, so remarkable
to the ordinary spectator, is easily explained by the
geologist ; who finds that the lower portion is formed
of granite and schistose rocks, and that the upper is
a mass of porphyry. Some of the rarer alpine plants
grow on Bennevis; conveniently situated for the
botanist, as they lie chiefly near the sides of the
path by which the upper portion is accessible. But
the summit itself is utterly bare, and presents a
most extraordinary and unexpected sight. If any
one is desirous to see how the world looked on the
first day of creation, let him come hither. Nor is
that nakedness at all hyperbolical; since the surfaces
of the stones are not even covered with the common
crustaceous lichens; two or three only of the shrubby
kinds being barely visible. It is an extensive and
flat plain, strewed with loose rocks, tumbled together
in fragments of all sizes, and, generally, covering the
solid foundation to a considerable depth. While
these black and dreary ruins mark the power of the
elements on this stormy and elevated spot, they
excite our surprise at the agencies that could thus,
unaided by the usual force of gravity, have ploughed
up and broken into atoms, so wide and so level a
surface of the toughest and most tenacious of rocks.
Certainly Nature did not intend mountains to last
for ever ; when she is so fertile in expedients as to
lay plans for destroying a mountain so apparently
unsusceptible of ruin as Bennevis. Situated in the
midst of this plain, whence nothing but clouds and
sky are visible, the sensation is that of being on a
rocky shore in the wide ocean; and we almost listen
to hear its waves roar, and watch as if for the break-
ing of the surge, as the driving rack sweeps along
BEN
1-29
BER
its margin. As the clouds began to close in around,
curling and wheeling over head, and hurrying up in
whirlwinds from the deep and dark abysses which
surround it, a poetical imagination might have
imaged itself on the spot where Jupiter overthrew
the Titans; the bulk, the apparent freshness, and
the confusion of the fragments, resembling a shower
of rocks just discharged by a supernatural power
from the passing storm. The wild and strange sub-
limity of this scene is augmented by the depth of the
surrounding precipices, whence the eye looks down
into interminable vacancy, on the mists that are
sailing in mid air, or into the rugged depths of
chasms, black as night, impenetrable to the eye or
to the light of day. The distant view presents no
interest. The whole is a heap of mountains; but
so remote and so depressed, from the altitude of this
station, that scarcely any marked feature is to be
seen ; and the effect, on the east side in particular,
resembles a congregation of mole-hills."
BENNOCH1E, a mountain in Aberdeenshire,
situated between Alford and Garioch, and stated by
Dr. Keith, in his ' Survey of Aberdeenshire,' to have
an altitude of 1,440 feet. The chief peculiarity of
Bennochie is its bold peaks, which communicate to
it, when viewed from certain points, a remarkably
grand and striking aspect. The mass of the moun-
tain consists of a reddish granite, traversed from
north to south by great dykes of porphyry.
BENREISIPOL.L, a mountain in Sunart, Argvle-
shire, estimated by Sir James Kiddell, Bart., at 2,6b'l
feet in elevation.
BENRINNGS. See Aberlour.
BENVOIRLICH. See Arroquhar.
BENVRACKY, a mountain in Perthshire, which
terminates the vale of Athole on the one hand, and
the strath of Garry on the other. The view from
its summit is one of the most beautiful and extensive
in the Alpine scenery of Scotland. Though this
mountain is about 30 miles from Perth, a good eye
can discern from it, in a favourable day, not only the
bridge, but the steeples, and some of the more pro-
minent objects in the neighbourhood of that city.
Its height has been determined to be 2,7o6 feet above
the level of the sea.*
BENWl'VIS, or Benwyves, and sometimes
Benuaish, a mountain in the parish of Kiltearn, in
Ross, having an elevation of 3,426 feet according to
the new Statistical account, but of 3,722 feet ac-
cording to Mr. C. Schmidt's admeasurement. It is
visible in the shires of Nairn and Banff, and from
Inverness. It is seldom without snow on its summit
even in mid-summer; and, in one of the charters of
Fowlis, the forest of Uaish is held of the Crown on
condition of presenting at court a snow-ball, or, as
some say, three wain-loads of snow, gathered from
the top of this mountain, on any day in- the year on
which they may be required. Its outline presents
an enormous lateral bulk like a hay-stack ; its sum-
mit where free from snow is covered with soft green
sward. It has never been entirely free from snow in
the memory of man, except in September, 1826.
BERIGONIU-Mjf a celebrated spot about 4 miles
* Tim i3 the result of three barometrical calculations, and
one geometrical measurement, conducted with every attention
to accuracy, in reference to a point in the parish of Moulin,
near the banks of the Tummel, the height of which above the
ievel of the sea was carefully deduced from a series of contem-
poraneous observations with the baromeler made at the point
alluded to, and the manse of Kinlauns. On account of the
coincidence of result in all these' cases, the height thus obtained
must be extremely near the truth.
f It is beyond a doubt, that the tprm Berigonium, also
written Beregonmin, is a misnomer. There is not a vestige
in the language or traditious of the country, that this castle
ever bore a name that had the slightest resemblance ot this.
U has been supposed, that Boece, liuiliiig Refigoniwn ineution-
1.
from Dunstaffuage, on the opposite side of Connal
ferry, supposed to be the site of a fortress fabulously
ascribed to Fergus, the first of the name, and the
first in our legendary catalogue of kings. He, it is
said, " beildit the castell of Berigoue in Lochquhaber.
This castell standis in the west part of Scotland
foment the Ilis, quhare he exercit his lawis to that
fyne, that his pepyl micht be drawin the more esaly
for exercitioun of justice." Not to say that the place
referred to is only in the vicinity of the district now
callen Lochaber, it would appear that what is here
asserted can be carried no farther back than to Fer-
gus, the second of the name, who came to Argyle
from Ireland about the year 503, with his brothers
Angus and Loarn; from the latter of whom it is
most probable that the region called Lorn received
its denomination. The highest honour to which
Berigonium has a claim, is undoubtedly that of
having been the capital of the ancient Dalriadie
kingdom, extending from Drum-albiu, or the moun-
tains of Breadalbane, to the Mull of Cantire. That
this was a place of some consequence in former ages,
is evident from what still remains of it. In the Old
Statistical account, [vol. vi. p. ISO,] it is stated that;
As it was situated between two hills, " a street paved
with common stones, running from the foot of the one
hill to the other, is still called Straid-mharaijaid, ' the
Market-street,' and another place, at a little distance,
goes by the name of Straid-namin, * the Meal-street.'
About ten or eleven years ago a man, cutting peats
in a moss between two hills, found one of the wooden
pipes that conveyed the water from the one hill to
the other, at the depth of five feet below the surface.
On Dun Macsnichan is a large heap of rubbish and
pumice stones ; but no distinct traces of any building
or fortification can now be seen on either of the hills,
the foundations having been dug up for the purpose
of erecting houses in the neighbourhood. There is
a tradition among the lower class, — that Beregonium
was destroyed by fire from heaven." The following
account of this place has been given by the ingenious
Pennant, in which he views the remains in a light
considerably different. " It was at best such a city
as Csesar found in our island at the time of his inva-
sion ; an oppidum, or fortified town, placed in a thick
wood, surrounded with a rampart or fort, a place of
retreat from invaders. Along the top of the beach
is a raised mound, the defence against a sudden land-
ing. This, from the idea of here having been a city,
is styled Straid-a-inliaryai, oi' Market-street. With-
in this are two rude erect columns, about six feet
high, and nine and a half in girth." The other hill,
which is much higher, is called Dun-bhail-an-righ,
(pronounced Dun-valirc), 'the Hill of the King's
town.' It is surrounded by circular trenches. As
this district is filled with memorials of the Fingalian
heroes, tradition pretends to point out this lofty hill
ed by Ptolemy, had not only read it erroneously, but, in con-
sequence of the false position given to our country in the map,
had viewed a town or castle in Galloway as belonging to Argyle.
We learn, however, trom Camden, that the oldest edition of
his Geography, printed at Rome A. 1490, gives BerigurttiuH,
which he views as tiie modern Bargeny in Carriek. The only
Gaelic name, by which Ihe pretended Uengoninin is known, is
DuiuMac-Shiodhari, or Dun- Macsnichan. As Sniochan is sup-
posed to be a parrioiyinic, the designation may signify, ' tne
fortified hill of the sou of Sniochau or Sliachttn.' It is by no
means improbable tnat this name had originated in a later era
than that of the erection of the kingdom of the Dalriads ; as it
will be found that, in many instances, the name borrowed from
posterior occupants supersedes that of those who preceded
them. This holds as to a variety of camps or fortifications, un-
doubtedly Roman or British, which are by the tradition oi the
country called Danish ; as having been possessed by these north-
ern invaders in a later period. The name Sniockun, or Snachan,
has more appearance of relationship to Norwegian, than to
Celtic nomenclature. For, ill the Danish memorials, we meet
with Snig-urt or as otherwise writteo Snio, in Latin bearing
the form of Snigtni-is in the genitive, as tile name oi a northern
prince. — Dr. Jumieaun.
BER
130
BER
as the site of the royal ' halls of Selma. Pennant —
who has discovered volcanoes where they never
existed — says of Dun-macsnichan : " The hill is
doubtless the work of a volcano, of which this is not
the only vestige in North Britain." On examining
this hill, Dr. Jamieson saw no reason to entertain a
doubt that it exhibited the remains of an ancient
British fortress : for the scoria found on it exactly
agrees with that which is met with in the many
vitrified forts that are scattered through Scotland.
The beautiful site and fine plantations of Lochnell,
the seat of General Campbell, add greatly to the
richness of the landscape.
BERNERA, the southmost of a groupe of islands
in the Hebrides, of which some notices have been
already given under the general head Barra. It is
amiss of gneiss, with the north-western part dipping
into the water, and the south-eastern exhibiting an
abrupt section rising to the height of above 500 feet.
The cliffs on this side are greatly varied in outline,
— inclining, perpendicular, and projecting, — smooth,
largely fissured, or minutely intersected, — -here over-
hanging the deep in a jutting mass, — there forming a
retiring cove terminating above in a perpendicular
fissure, and below in a gloomy cavern, the abode of
the dark-winged cormorant. In the summer-months
these cliffs are inhabited by prodigious numbers of
kittiwakes, guillemots, auks, and puffins. The na-
tives of the island derive a plentiful supply of ex-
cellent food from the nests of these birds, first rob-
bing them of the eggs, and afterwards of the young.
They also procure abundance of puffins by dragging
them from the holes in which they breed at the sum-
mits of the cliffs. One who has not seen some of
the great breeding-places of the Hebrides, can hardly
form an idea of the prodigious swarms of birds by
which they are frequented. When the wind blows
strongly from the south or south-east, some of the
birds in flying to the cliffs are frequently carried in-
land over the summit — which in this island is pretty
even — to a small distance, when they wheel about
and regain their nests. This happens especially to
the puffins, which always nestle near the tops of the
rocks. The natives, aware of this circumstance,
take advantage of it for procuring these birds. A
man lays himself upon his back, close to the edge of
the cliff, with his head to the sea, and having in his
hands a stout fishing-rod, or light spar, which is
directed over his head toward the sea, and projects
in part beyond the edge of the rock. He remains
patiently in this state until a bird, driven over him
by the force of the wind, comes within reach, when
he suddenly raises the rod, and dexterously hits it,
which long practice enables him to do with precision.
The bird of course falls, and is immediately secured.
The man resumes his expectant position, and in this
manner procures a very considerable number of puffins
and auks, when the weather is favourable to the
operation. This method of procuring birds is prac-
tised only in the island of Bernera, none of the
other breeding-places in the Hebrides happening to
be so constructed as to admit of it.
BERNERA, an island in the sound of Harris,
lying between North Uist and Pabbay ; about 1 mile
to the east of the former, and 5 miles south-west of
the latter.
BERNERA, an island on the west coast of the
isle of Lewis, formed by Loch Bernera, and Loch
Koag, inlets of the sea which indent the mainland of
Lewis in this quarter. It is about 8 miles in length,
by 2 in breadth ; and is surrounded by an archipelago
of islets, amongst which is one to the west or Ber-
nera, known as Little Bernera. Near the shore of
the larger Bernera are some interesting monuments,
of the kind commonly called Druidical : the remains
of three stone circles. The principal, and by far the
most perfect of them — one of the most remarkable in
form and extent in the British isles — stands on the
brow of a promontory overhanging the bay, striking
the eye at a considerable distance, like a cemetery of
thickly-clustered tomb-stones. We are indebted to
Dr. Macculloch for the following description of it.
" The general aspect of this structure is that of a
cross, nearly of the proportions of the Roman crucifix,
with a circle at the intersection. But a nearer in-
spection discovers more than is essential to that
form. The largest line lies in a direction of about
twenty-four degrees west of the true meridian, or
pretty nearly in that of the magnetic variation at
present, which is therefore the general bearing of the
work. Great stones intermixed with some that have
fallen, and with blank spaces whence they may have
been removed, or where more probably they are
covered by the soil, are found along this line for the
space of 588 feet, including the circle; their number
amounting to fourteen, and eleven of them being
still erect. If we were allowed to fill up the blanks
according to the general proportions of the intervals
between those that remain, the number would be
twenty within that distance. But following the
direction of this line further on, there are indications
of other stones, all of them fallen, and nearly covered
by earth and vegetation, that would justify us in
extending it ninety feet, or more, further; thus
making the total length about 680 feet. Parallel to
the long leg of the cross, and to that only, is another
line, now far less perfect than the first, since it con-
tains only three erect and seven fallen stones, and
reaches, as far as I could discover, only to 480 feet.
Thus these two lines may be conceived to form a
sort of avenue to the circular enclosure; its breadth
being exactly equal to a semi-diameter of the circle,
as the additional line touches the edge of this. The
shorter line of the cross, at right angles to the other,
now measures 204 feet, including the circle: but as
it is longer on one side than the other, its original
length has probably been greater, though I was
unable to detect any traces of fallen stones ; the
progress of some enclosures having here interfered
with the integrity of the work. This line contains
ten erect stones. The diameter of the circle is
sixty-three feet from north to south, and sixty-two
from east to west, and it contains fourteen erect
stones in the circumference, with one in the centre.
This central stone is twelve feet high ; one near the
end of the long line measures thirteen, a few are
found reaching to seven or eight, but the height of
the greater number does not exceed four. The in-
tervals between the stones vary from two to ten
yards, but the larger ones are probably the conse-
quence of the loss of those which once occupied
these places. I ought to add that the total number
of stones which I could discover, either erect or re-
cently fallen, is forty-eight ; and that if the whole
rank were complete, as it appears originally to have
been built, they would amount to sixty-five or
sixty-six." " My measurements," says Lord Teign-
mouth, "did not entirely coincide with those here
stated ; but on the whole they are doubtless accurate.
The recent removal of the peat-moss, in which the
stones are half buried, from the sides of one of them,
exhibits not only the surprising growth of this vege-
table production, on a height where it could not re-
ceive any alluvial contributions, or deposit of extra-
neous decayed vegetable matter, but also the method
employed by the rude architects who erected them,
to fix them on those bases on which they have re-
mained unmoved for centuries. The stone is inserted
in a hole, filled up with small loose fragments of the
same material. The elevation of the stones of the
BER
131
BER
rentral circle must have amounted to thirty feet
above the ground. Where exposed to view, the
substance is as white as a bleached bone, contrasting
singularly with the ' gray' hue produced by the at-
mosphere. The fanciful conjecture of Toland re-
specting this structure, which I have read detailed
in an Encyclopaedia, is ridiculed by Dr. Maeculloch.
The circular or oval form of these edifices was se-
lected, no doubt, as best adapted to the purpose for
which they were erected, and not with reference to
the signs of the zodiac, as the number of stones in
the circle varies indefinitely. The extensive appen-
dage to the circle at Calernish, which distinguishes
it troin other circles, consists of the four avenues of
stones directed towards it, from the four principal
points of the compass, and is also so simply con-
structed that its origin may be accounted for without
imputing to the architect an astronomical design
exhibited in no other structure of the same kind.
The other two circles in the neighbourhood are
composed ot' much smaller stones : one is incomplete,
the other has a double row still standing, and ar-
ranged in an oval form. The people have no tradi-
tion respecting them."
BERR1EDALE, or Berrindale, a quoad sacra
parish in Caithness, divided from Latheton, in 1833,
by authority of the General Assembly. Its greatest
length is 20 miles ; greatest breadth 12j miles.
Population, in 1836, 1,556, chiefly earning their
livelihood by fishing. Minister's stipend £120.
Church built in 1826, by Government, at an ex-
pense of ,£750. Sittings 312. Patron, the Crown.
The hamlet of Berriedale is 253{ miles north of
Edinburgh, and 9^ north-east of Helmsdale. It gives
the title of Baron to the family of Sinclair, Earl of
Caithness. There are here the ruins of the ancient
castle of Berriedale. According to tradition, William
Sutherland, alias William More Mackehin, that is,
Big William the son of Hector, was the last in.
habiting proprietor of this castle. Being about to
set out on a warlike expedition to the Orkneys with
one of the earls of Caithness, and impressed with
the idea that he should never return to his native
country, he lay down on the ground above Berriedale
inn, contiguous to the small burung-grouud, and
there caused the length of his body to be cut out in
the sward in the form of a grave, which to this day
retains the name of The Long Grave, and measures
about 9 feet 5 inches. There is a good inn here.
The water of Berriedale rises on the borders of
Sutherland, runs eastwards on the northern side of
Morven and the Maiden-Pap, for about 10 miles, and
then turns to the southeast, and flows into the small
bay on which the hamlet is situated, and which also
receives the water of Langwell, an alpine stream
likewise flowiDg from the west. There is a good
salmon-fishery in this bay. The country, included
between the two rivers, consists of a groupe of huge
dark mountains. The next stage to Berriedale, pro-
ceeding by the coast northwards, is I)unbeath, winch
is 7^ miles distant from Berneuale.
BERTHA, a spot of some interest to antiquaries
and others who,
" Such places labour to make known,
A3 former times have honoured with renown."
It is situated at the confluence of the Almond with
the Tay, about 2 miles above the town of Perth ;
and, according to General Roy, there are still some
taint vestiges of Old Perth, or Bertha, here. Bu-
chanan relates that an inundation of the Tay, in one \
night swept the greater part of the town of Bertha
away. This happened towards the end of William's
reign, who died in 1214. The king himself escaped
the disaster which overwhelmed the place; but his
| infant-son, with many of the promiscuous multitude,
! lost their lives. Though the existing vestiges of
■ Bertha are extremely slight, yet they serve to show
how, in all probability, the place was situated on a
tongue of land before it was washed away. Here
I the Roman road crossed the Tay, and the houses on
the opposite bank are still called Rome. From so
I many concurring circumstances, but especial!) from
I the distance between it and Hierna corresponding
I so well with that assigned by Richard in his Itinerary ,
i there seems to be some ground to conclude, that the
I ancient Bertha must have been the Orrea of th<s
Romans. General Roy has preserved a plan of it.
BERVIE, a small parish in Kincardineshire;
bounded on the north and north-east by the parish
of Arbuthnot ; on the east by Kinneff ; on the south-
east by the German ocean ; on the south and south-
west by Benholme parish ; and on the north-west by
Garvock. The superficial area of the parish does
not exceed 2,000 acres, whereof about 300 are under
cultivation. The principal elevation, Bervie hill, is
about 400 feet. The water of Bervie, which gives
name to the parish, rises in the parish of Glenbervie,
and falls into the sea a little to the north of In-
verbervie, after a course of about 14 miles. It is a
good troutiug-stream. and forms a small harbour at
its mouth. Population, in 1801, 1,068 ; in 1831,
11,371. Assessed property, in 1815, £2,467. Houses
208. In 1831, the burgh of Bervie contained 757
inhabitants, and the fishing-village of Gourdon 238.
— This parish, originally a part of Kinneff, is in the
presbytery of Fordoun, and synod of Angus and
Mearns. Patron, the Crown. Stipend ±'141 12s.
Id., with a glebe of the value of £18, and manse.
Unappropriated teinds £1 15s. 5d. Church built in
1836 ; sittings 900. — There is a small Independent
church here. There are six schools within the parisii.
The parochial schoolmaster has a salary of ±'29 18s.
9d., with about £20 fees. James Farquhar, Esq. of
Inverbervie, left ±500 to the poor of this parish.
The town of Inverbervie owes its distinction,
as a royal burgh, to the circumstance of David II.
being shipwrecked on the coast in 1362, and having
been kindly treated by its inhabitants on reaching the
shore. It has no natural advantages of site, and no
manufactures except a little linen-weaving. The pub-
lic funds do not exceed £150 per annum. In 1838-9
the income of the burgh was±118 5s. 7id. ; the build-
ings are straggling ; and there is little appearance of
any speedy increase of the town. The true harbour of
the place is at Gourdon, already mentioned, which is
about a mile distant. At this latter place there are
several granaries and warehouses belonging to Mon-
trose merchants. The market-day is Wednesday ;
and for six months in the year is a good grain market.
A good cattle-market is held here on the Thursday
before the 19th of May in each year. There is also
another of less importance held on the Thursday be-
fore the 19th of September; and there have recently
been established hiring and cattle-markets on the
Wednesday before November 22d, the Wednesday
before Christmas, O.S., and the Wednesday before
February 13th. The magistracy of Inverbervie
consist of a provost, two baillies, a dean-of -guild, a
treasurer, and 9 councillors. The old council choose
the six magistrates and the remaining 9 councillors.
It unites with the Montrose district of burghs in return-
ing a member to parliament; and the parliamentarv
constituency is about 40. A little to the south-east of
the burgh, on a rising-ground nearthe shore, is the old
castle of Hallgreen, which is about to be thoroughly
repaired bv its proprietor James Farquhar, Esq
BERVIE BROW, or Craig David, a bold pro-
montory on the north side of Bervie water, in the
parish of Kinntif. It is a conspicuous land-mark lor
132
BERWICKSHIRE.
mariners, and is seen at sea at the distance of 15
leagues.
BERWICKSHIRE. The county of Berwick
forms the south-east extremity of Scotland, and lies
on the coast of the German ocean, and along- the
tiorth-east horder of England. Its principal division
was anciently called The Merse, or March, a name
which it still retains, and which probably signifies
the Border-district, or frontier-province.* But this
district seems formerly to have included a consider-
able portion of the eastern lowlands of Teviotdale,
as Roxburgh castle was anciently called March-
mount, or the Castle of the March or Merse. This
denomination, the Merse, is still often used, loosely,
for the whole county. The modern name, Berwick-
shire, is derived from the town of Berwick-upon-
Tweed, once its chief burgh or county-town; but
which, after the demise of Elizabeth, and the acces-
sion of James VI. of Scotland to the English throne,
was constituted a peculiar jurisdiction, hypotheti-
cally separate from both kingdoms, and virtually
forming a distinct county.
Berwickshire is bounded on the east by the Ger-
man ocean; along which, from the boundaries of
Berwick township to St. Abb's Head, its coast trends
north-north-west for 8 J miles. The shore then
takes a west-north-west direction, for other 9 miles,
till its junction with East Lothian at Duuglass
bridge ; and, by the revenue laws, this latter part
of the coast is considered as being within the limits
of the frith of Forth. Almost the whole of this
coast consists of bold rocky precipices of consider-
able altitude; and is nearly inaccessible, except at
Eyemouth and Coldingham bays, and two or three
other places, which are accessible to fishing-boats,
at sandy or gravel beaches at the foot of the rocks.
The whole irregular northern boundary skirts with
East Lothian, along the mountain-range of Lammer-
moor. But, within this line, Berwickshire entirely
surrounds a detached portion of one of the East
Lothian parishes; while the most northerly part of
this county is situated beyond, or to the north of,
the Lammermoor hills, and is continuous with the
extensive and fertile vale of the Lothians. Clint-
hill, one of the highest of the Lammermoor chain,
in the parish of Cbannelkirk, at the north-western
extremity of the county, rises 1,544 feet above the
level of the ocean. Lammerlaw, in the parish of
Lauder, has an altitude of 1,500 feet. The general
range of these mountains declines as it approaches
the sea, averaging about 1,000 feet in perpendicular
elevation, and it terminates in three precipitous pro-
montories, at Fast-castle, Ernscleugh, and St. Abb's
Head ; which last is detached from the extremity of
the chain by a deep narrow dell almost level with
high water mark at spring-tides. The western irre-
gular limit of Berwickshire is partly with Mid-Lo-
thian, towards the north, but chiefly with Roxburgh-
shire, from which it is partly divided, on that side,
by the lower and principal stream of the Leader
water, to its junction with the river Tweed near
Melrose.
Excepting a portion of Roxburghshire adjoining
Kelso, and the township of Berwick, both of which
are on the north side of the Tweed, that beautiful
river, in a meandering course of about 40 miles, forms
the southern boundary of this county, dividing it
from Roxburghshire on the west, Northumberland
in the middle, and North Durham on the east, of
this line of division. North Durham is a detached
portion of the English bishopric and county-palatine
of Durham, having the whole extent of Northumber-
land interposed between it and the main body of the
* Chalmers thinks it more probable it was so called from the
Anglo-Saxon merse, a marsh ; or Iron) mariscus, a naked plain.
patrimony of St. Cuthbert, which once held exten-
sive possessions in Scotland also. From Berwick
township, Berwickshire is divided by a semilunar
dry march, consisting partly of a ruinous dry stone
wall called the Bound dyke, and partly of a narrow-
lane called the Bound road; this boundary extends
from Marshal- Meadows on the sea-shore on the east,
to the Tweed on the west, crossing the Whitadder
in its course.
Mr. Blackadder estimates the extreme length of
the county, from east to west, at 31^ miles, and its
extreme breadth, from north to south, at 19i miles;
the mean length at 26^ miles, and the mean "breadth
at 17 miles; and the total contents at 235,440 acres.
But, Mr. Kerr says, "from a very careful considera-
tion of the map itself, attentively measured by its
own scale, the mean length appears to be 28 miles,
the mean breadth 17 miles, and the consequent con-
tents 304,640 acres." Of the three former reporters
on this county, Mr. Low and Mr. Bruce differ from
Mr. Blackadder, and from each other, in the fore-
going enumerated particulars, probably from having
trusted to some old inaccurate maps, while Mr.
Home adopts the measures of Mr. Blackadder im-
plicitly. A comparative enumeration of the several
measures and computations is here subjoined:
COMPARATIVE TABLE OF ESTIMATED EXTENT.
Particulars. Blackad. Low. Bruce. Home. Kerr.
Extreme length, 3li m. 274 m. Omitted 314. m. 84 in.
Extreme breadth, I9| do. lyj do. Omitted 17 do. 21 do.
Mean length, 2fi± do. Omitted 30 m. Omitted 23 do.
Mean breadth, 17 do. Omitted 17 m. Omitted 17 do.
Square miles, Omitted 431. 510. 44A 47fi.
Statute acres, 285,410. 276,000. 326,400. 285,000. 304,fi40.
Since the dismemberment of Berwick from Scot-
land, Lauder remains the only royal borough in the
county ; and, in conjunction with Jedburgh, Hadding-
ton, Dunbar, and North-Berwick, sends one repre-
sentative to parliament. Greenlaw, a small village
37 miles south-east of Edinburgh, in an inconvenient
situation for the purpose, is the county-town, where
all public meetings of the freeholders are convened,
where the sheriff and commissary courts and quar-
ter-sessions of the peace are held, and in which is
the county-jail. Dunse and Coldstream, small towns,
are the only places of any size in the county, though
neither of them are of much importance. But Dunse
is much better fitted — from being more central to
the chief population — than Greenlaw, for being the
county-town. Eyemouth, little better than a fish-
ing village, is the only sea-port within the county.
Small debt sheriff courts are held thrice a-year at
Lauder; six times a-year at Coldstream; at Ayton
thrice a-year; and at Dunse, six times a-year. Jus-
tice of peace small debt courts are held monthly at
Dunse, Ayton, Coldstream, Greenlaw, Lauder, and
Earlston.
In ancient times, the shire of Berwick seems to
have been a separate jurisdiction from the bailliary
of Lauderdale, and to have been itself divided into
the Merse and Lammermoor districts. It is not
easy to say what had been the exact boundaries and
extent of these three divisions, now almost obso-
lete. For the purposes of agricultural inquiry, the
whole county may be very conveniently consid-
ered under two districts, — the Merse and Lam-
mermoor ; the former including all the comparative-
ly low land along Tweed, Whitadder, Blackadder,
and Eye; and the latter comprehending Lauderdale,
along with the more eastern hilly country peculiarly
called Lammermoor. According to the general divi-
sion of the county just pointed out, the Merse de-
signates the whole lower ground from Tweed up
the cultivated slopes of the lower southern range of
the Lammermoor hills, including the western par-
BERWICKSHIRE.
133
ishesof Nerithornand Mertori, and forming the largest
piece of compact level ground — diversified only by a
few gentle undulations — to be found in Scotland. Mr.
Blaekadder estimates this division to contain 100,226
acres. The whole remainder of the county — with
an exception to be mentioned in the sequel — is there-
fore to be considered as forming the Lammermoor
district; and, according to the same authority, should
contain 185,214 acres. But Mr. B. computes that
there are 7,280 acres of lowland and arable slopes of
the lower hills in Lauderdale, besides a detached
portion of lowland containing 2,200 acres, at the
north-east corner of the county, in the parish of
Cockburnspath, adjoining the vale of East Lothian.
Consequently the hill lands of Lammermoor and
Lauderdale are thus reduced to 175,734 acres. Some
farther considerable reduction might still be made
from this estimate of the hill-lands, as there are
several narrow tracts of vale land along the sides of
streams winding deep among the mountains, and
many arable slopes of the lower interior hills them-
selves. But these are, probably, fully compensated
for by hills, and moors, and bogs, within the district
of the Merse. The township of Berwick, geogra-
phically situated within this county, may probably
contain 4,680 acres of laud, almost entirely arable,
exclusive of the site of the town and suburbs. Thus,
according to the respectable authority of Mr. Black-
adder, the whole of this county may be estimated
and distributed as in the following table:
Acres.
Lowlands of the Merse 100,226
Lowlands in Lauderdale .... 7,'2S0
Lowlands of Cockburnspath .... 2,200
Lerwick township 4.0SO
Total arable, improved or improveable
Hill lands of Lammermoor and Lauderdale
Total extent in statute acres
Or, leaving out Berwick township .
1U.3S6
175,731
290,120
285,140
In spring the prevalent winds are from the eastern
points, and are attended by much cold raw weather
and frequent frosts. This cold ungenial temperature
is very apt to continue far into the summer, probably
owing to the neighbourhood of the ocean ; but, from
the same cause, the winters are seldom of very long
continuance, or peculiar severity ; though certainly-
more severe than on the west coast in the same lati-
tude. This influence lessens perceptibly in all re-
spects at 8 or 10 miles from the sea ; and the winters
in the Lammermoor hills and Lauderdale are severe
and continued, though not more so than in the hills
of Northumberland, or of Yorkshire. In autumn
the prevailing winds are from the west, and are often
attended with injury to the standing corn by shak-
ing, especially when harvest is protracted much be-
yond the equinox. From the best information that
can be procured, this county, in common with the
whole eastern lowlands of Britain, appears to enjoy
a comparatively dry climate, much more friendly to
the cultivation of grain, and other agricultural pur-
suits, than the lowlands on the western coast. The
hilly district of Lammermoor, however, and the
higher parts of the southern slopes of the Lainmer-
moor hills, called the moor-edges, are greatly more
liable than the lower part of the county to have the
spring seed-time delayed and interrupted, and the
harvest rendered late, difficult, and precarious. These
disadvantages, however, are by no means greater in
Berwickshire than in other districts of equal eleva-
tion, either in Scotland or England. The Merse, as
already observed, is skirted on the north by the ele-
vated range of the Lammermoor hills, and at some
distance on the south, beyond the Northumberland
portion of the vale of Tweed, by the more loftv
chain of the Cheviot mountains ; and these two
chains are united, in a great measure, far inland by
intermediate lower hills dividing the eastern from
the western lowlands. Hence the clouds, wafted
by the eastern gales from the British ocean, are at-
tracted from the vale between by these ranges of
hills, which in spring and autumn are often enveloped
in mist, drenched by rain, or clothed in snow, while
the lower intermediate Merse, and the rest of the
vale of Tweed, are enjoying the most genial seed-
times, and highly propitious harvest weather.
In the 11th century, almost the whole of Berwick-
shire was covered with wood, except a portion of the
Merse. During the 12th and loth centuries, many
persons of consideration settled in it, having re-
ceived from the Crown grants of lands which they
cultivated; but the husbandry of those times con-
sisted more in the feeding of flocks and rearing of
cattle than in the production of corn. Toward the
middle of last century, agriculture began to be
studied as a science, and essential improvements to
be made here by enlightened practical farmers.
About the year 1730, Mr. Swinton of Swinton,
father of the late Lord Swinton, in the course of a
few years, drained and enclosed his whole estate.
Mr. Hume of Eecles, about the same time, began
and carried on his improvements with great ardour
and success. Lord Karnes, another of the early
improvers in this county, about the year 1746 in-
troduced the turnip-husbandry which has been car-
ried to perfection in this county. Clover and grasses
were also sown at Karnes, and at sundry other places,
towards the year 1750. Soon after this period, the
enclosing and improving of estates became a favour-
ite pursuit with other landed proprietors. Mr. For-
dyce of Ayton profited by all the preceding discoveries
and meliorations. In enclosing his landed property,
he sheltered his fields with belts and clumps of plant-
ing, and added the Scots cabbage to the husbandry
of Berwickshire. Dr. Button, the geologist, a con-
siderable proprietor in this county, turned his atten-
tion to practical husbandry, and succeeded in all his
plans. In this way, the fertility and wealth of Ber-
wickshire have been greatly improved, and the land-
rent has been more than quadrupled. The average
size of farms is from 300 to 400 acres; held on leases
of an average duration of 19 years. According to
Mr. Lowe, the Merse district, including the vales
on the Eye and Leader, contained in 1794 :
Acres.
Under tillage, and cultivated grass . 50,000
Iu pasture, boy, moor, moss, and wood • 75.UUU
125,000
And the Lammermoor district, including Lauderdale :
Under tillage 25.000
Arable and green pasture . . 75,000
Moor, moss, and wood . . . 51,000
151,000
The whole county, in his opinion, extending to 276,000
In the subsequent report of the county, prepared
and published by Mr. Home in 1798, the soils are
thus arranged and estimated :
Acres.
Deep loam on the principal rivers . . . 25,110
Clay lands in the how of the Merse . . 40.3S0
Turnip soil in the remainder of the Merse, in Lau-
derdale, Westrutlier, Merton, Nenthorti, Long,
lormarhus, and other arable parts . . 119,780
Meadow,* moss, and muir of Lainmermoor and
Lauderdale, including some arable patches 99.S70
Total contents of the county
285,110
* It may he proper to remark that the terto meadow, used
hy Mr. Home, is a provincial name for green bog, or marshy
ground, producing a coarse grass mostly composed of rushes
and other aquatic- plants ; and that the word has no reference
whatever to what is called meadow in England, which is here
termed old grass land, and which is very seldom cut lor hay in
Scotland.— Kerr's Report.
134
BERWICKSHIRE.
Perhaps, if we were to estimate in round numbers
the total extent of cultivated ground at 160,000
acres, the uncultivated at 100,000, and the unprofit-
able at 30,000 acres, we should not be greatly wide
of the truth.
The Merse is comparatively an extensive plain,
yet much diversified by frequent swells, and with
several hills of some elevation interspersed, as at
Lamberton, Dunse, and Home castle. hammer-
moor and Lauderdale are composed of an extensive
range of lofty, rounded, well-defined hills, dividing
this north-eastern portion of the vale of Tweed from
the expanded vale of Forth. These hills are mostly
flat, or at least very obtuse on their summits, and
not precipitous or rocky on their sides. They are
everywhere intersected by a number of narrow up-
land valleys or dells, through which the numerous
feeders or brooks which combine to form the Leader,
Whitadder, Blackadder, and Eye waters, wind to-
wards the lower vale. The summits, in many places,
extend into considerable flats or elevated table-lands,
which often slope gradually to the lower vales on
the south sides of the hills, the higher parts being
moor, but gradually declining into good land. The
north sides of the Lammermoor hills are more steep,
but, as belonging to the Lothians, require no par-
ticular mention here. This county possesses every
variety of soil, from the most stubborn clay to the
most barren sand or gravel, but none whatever of a
chalky or calcareous nature. Along the banks of
Tweed, Whitadder, and Blackadder there is an ex-
tensive tract of tine deep free loam, often upon a
gravel bottom, sometimes upon a bottom of till or
coarse retentive clay. In this lower vale lalid there
is likewise a large extent of stiff and rather coarse
clay soil, usually cut off from the immediate vicinity
of the rivers by the before-mentioned rich loam. A
third species of soil, of a free and dry sandy or
gravelly consistency, occupies most part of the re-
mainder of the Merse, the vale lands of hammer-
moor and Lauderdale, and the lower slopes of most
of the hills: this is denominated turnip soil, and is
usually incumbent upon a dry bottom of gravel or
sand. In every quarter of the county, — frequently
in the same farm, and sometimes in the same field, —
these three soils are intermixed in patches, or irre-
gular stripes, of greater or less extent, and all gra-
duate into each other, forming intermediate varieties.
Irr many situations, even of the most fertile parts of
the country, marshy places or bogs are found in the
hollows, into which the water of springs or small
rills are poured from the adjoining slopes. These
are overgrown with rushes or other marsh-plants,
and are inundated with water in rainy weather.
Some of these larger bogs are of great depth, and
seem anciently to have been lakes or ponds now
filled up with peat moss, owing to the long con-
tinued accumulation of decayed aquatic plants.
Others seem to have been anciently the sites of
woods, as the remains of trees are still found when
digging for peats in them. Some bogs have little or
no peat-moss in their composition ; and such, in
various instances, have been converted into sound
firm pasture, or good arable land, by judicious drain-
ing. Peat-mosses or turf-bogs are found in all the
hilly country, and in various patches through the
low lands. These are used, in various parts, as sup-
plies of fuel ; but the culture of peat has not yet
made its way into this county, so that it cannot
hitherto be reckoned one of the Berwickshire soils.
Dogden moss, near Pohvart, covers about 500 acres,
and is in some places 10 feet deep.
Several endeavours have been made to discover a
workable seam of coal in Berwickshire. In the
estate of Lamberton, contiguous to Berwick bounds,
at the south-east extremity of the county, a stratum
of coal has long been known, which crops out on
the sea-banks near the fishing-hamlet of Ross. Some
coal has also been found in the parishes of Mording-
t'on and Cockburnspath. An attempt was once made
to dig for copper ore, at Ordwell on the Whitadder;
but, either from want of produce in proportion to
expense, or want of skill in working, it has been long
abandoned. More recent attempts to work this min-
eral at St. Bathau's, and also near the old church of
Ellim, in Longformacus parish, have proved equally
abortive. No indications of lead, tin, antimony, or
any other metallic ore — copper and perhaps red iron-
ore excepted — are known to exist in this county.
Some slight trials were made many years ago of a
ferruginous clay-stone rock, on the estate of Ayton,
as an iron-stone or ore of iron ; but it was found too
poor in metal to defray the expense of transport to
Carron iron-works. In some inland parts of the
county there are a few veins of limestone ; but
hitherto, the county has been mainly dependent on
its neighbours for the two great articles of domestic
comfort and agricultural improvement, — coal and
lime. Coals are brought from the south side of the
Tweed to all the south and east parts of the county,
and from Mid-Lothian into Lauderdale. The north-
east corner is supplied from Dunbar harbour, whither
they are imported mostly from Fife. Lime follows
nearly the same roads; except that some of the
north and east parts of the county procure it from
kilns in the vale of East-Lothian. Both coals and
lime, especially the latter, are imported at Eye-
mouth. The coals come from the frith of Forth,
and from Newcastle and Sunderland. Lime is
brought from the river Wear, and from North
Sunderland, near Bambrough castle. Coke, or
charred pit coal, for brewers, maltsters, and corn
merchants, is likewise imported at Eyemouth from
Newcastle. In many parts of the county, shell
marl has been found in small quantities. Trap
whinstone, and amorphous basalt, interspersed with
irregularly stratified clay-stone, are almost universal.
In several places, rocks of breccia, or coarse pudding-
stone, are found. The most remarkable instance of
this is the rocky promontory which covers Eyemouth
bay, on the north-west, in which nodules of whin
and schist, of great variety of size, form, and colour,
are imbedded in a lapidified clay, somewhat like
steatite, of various colours, often greenish, generally
very hard and tough, but soapy to the touch. The
durability of this stone is thoroughly ascertained, as
the outer pier of Eyemouth harbour has been above
30 years exposed to the fury of the German ocean,
without the slightest apparent waste; and it is built
of this stone without cement of any kind. In many
places, large beds of silicious sandstone or freestone
occur in regular stratification. Some of these are of
a coarse open grain, and serve tolerably well for
filtering stones. Many of the quarries are of ex-
cellent quality ; and perhaps there does not exist a
finer specimen of that kind of stone than is exhibited
in the magnificent ruins of Melrose abbey, in the
county of Roxburgh, only about 2 miles from the
western borders of Berwickshire; in which exqui-
sitely rich and delicate carvings in high relief, which
have been many centuries exposed to the weather,
are still sharp and uninjured. From comparison of
grain and colour — the last a pale red or almost peach
bloom — there is every reason to suppose that beau-
tiful structure had been supplied with stone from
Dryburgh upon Tweed within this county. Along
the" shores of Lamberton estate, contiguous to Ber-
wick township, there are extensive strata of free
sandstone.*
• The Berwickshire Naturalists' Club, instituted lor tlie pur-
BERWICKSHIRE.
135
Excepting the Eye, with its scanty tributaries,
which tails into Eyemouth bay, an<l a very small
number of inconsiderable brooks which run separ-
ately into the sea, all the streams of Berwickshire
contribute to swell the waters of the Tweed. This
fine river, so celebrated in song and renowned in story,
is only navigable for sea-vessels to Berwick bridge,
about one mile from its mouth; though the tide flows
about 7 miles higher. The other streams in the
county are usually denominated waters, — a kind of
intermediate provincial term, between the dignity of
a river, and the insignificancy of a brook, which lat-
ter is called a burn in Scotland. Still smaller rills,
especially in marshy places, are often called sykes.
The Leader, or Leeder, with its numerous burns,
winds through the vale of Lauderdale. It issues
from a number of narrow upland dells or valleys,
among the wild hills of that district, and joins the
Tweed at the south-western angle of the county,
where that river begins to form the south boundary
of Berwickshire. The Whitadder and Blackadder
■ — quasi White and Black waters, owing to their re-
spective tinges when in flood — are next to exclu-
sively Berwickshire streams. Dye, one of the main
sources of Whitadder, rises by several brooks or
feeders, on the ridge of hills which separate Lauder-
dale from Lammennoor. The Whitadder proper,
rising within East Lothian, at an elevation of 1,150
feet, unites with Dye in a romantic vale of some
extent, in the bosom of the Lammermoor hills; and,
having received the Blackadder much lower down,
at Allanton, in the vale of the Merse, unites with
the Tweed within Berwick bounds, about 3 miles
from the sea. The Blackadder and its streamlets,
or feeders, rise from the southern slopes of the Lam-
mermoor and Lauderdale hills, at an elevation of
about 1,130 feet; and, after winding through the
vale of the Merse, joins the Whitadder between
Allanbank and Ninewells. The small stream of the
Eden principally belongs to that portion of Rox-
burghshire which indents into this county, on the
north side of Tweed, into which that small river
flows a few miles below Kelso. The Leet, another
small stream, belongs entirely to the how of the
Merse, and joins Tweed at Coldstream. The small
river Eye, with a few feeders — particularly the Ale
and Horn — waters a narrow but fertile vale in the
east end of the Merse ; several of its upper stream-
lets wind among some narrow valleys towards the
west end of the Lammermoor hills. Its peculiar
source is within East Lothian. At one place, — from
near Ayton to near Chirnside, — a narrow winding-
vale, of very inconsiderable elevation, almost permits
the Whitadder and Eye to unite. Midway between,
Billy hog or Billy mire discharges its superfluous
waters into both rivers, — eastwards, by the Horn
burn, into Eye, with just sufficient declivity for its
ready passage; westwards, by the Billy burn, into
Whitadder. This singular vale is about 5 miles
long, and has a northern branch, more elevated, from
poses of examining the Natural History and Antiquities of the
county and its adjacent districts, and of affording to such as
were interested in those objects, the opportunity of heneritin"
by mutual aid and co-operation, held its first meeting at Bank
Bouse, in the parish of Coldingham, Sept. 22, 1831. The club
hold no property, and exact no fees of admission ; all gentlemen
are eligible, provided o-4ths of the members present when they
are proposed are agreeable. The club, like the British Asso-
ciation, is migratory, by which its value and facilities are en-
hanced. It holds five meetings in the year, the third Wednesd iy
in September. December, April, June, and July, each of which
is held in a different town from the others. The members as-
semble at some inn, early in the forenoon disperse themselves
to explore and collect, the various subjects the district affords,
return to dine, exhibit newly discovered specimens, read com-
munications, and discuss the topics most likely to suggest them-
selves after their excursion. At the last meeting in the year
an address is delivered by the president, who briefly recapitu.
lates the proceedings uf the. past year.
Acbincrow on Billy bog, to Reston on the Eye, en.
closing an isolated hill of considerable extent and
elevation, hut altogether arable. The Ale, Wed-
derburn, and many other brooks, are too inconsider-
able to require any special notice. All the rivers,
waters, and brooks in this county abound witli trout
of different kinds; some contain a few pike and
perch, and all have plenty of eels. See articles
Leader, Whitadder, Blackadder, Eye, and
Ale — There are no lakes of any importance in the
county. Coldingham loch — a piece of water covering
about 30 acres — and one or two more, are too insig-
nificant to form exceptions, and do not merit any
particular notice. Dunse spa, once in some little
repute as a mineral spring, has fallen into complete
neglect.
The annual value of assessed property within this
county, in 1815, was £245,379. There are no verv
large estates in Berwickshire, though several have
become of great value, and some are connected with
estates in other counties of very considerable magni-
tude. Towards the end of last century, Mr. Low
estimated that hardly any of the Berwickshire estates
exceeded .£5,000 of yearly rent. " That circum-
stance" — says Mr. Kerr in 1808 — "must now be
very materially altered in consequence of the rapid
rise of rents since he wrote, and the limitation might
probably be now extended to nearly double that
amount, or from £8,000 to £10,000 a-year; but the
reporter has no data on which he can depend for
ascertaining this circumstance, and is not inclined
to hazard assertions on vague information. In the
year 1795, according to the cess-roll or land-tax book
of the county, its lands were then unequally divided
among 294 proprietors, of whom only 14 held under
the limitations of entail. At that period, according
to the report of Mr. John Home, and circumstances
have not since materially altered, the relative valua-
tions of these properties were classed thus:
Valued below £100 Scots
From £100 to £409 Scots
From £100 to £1,000 Scots
Of £1,000 Scots and upwards
Number of Properties,
141
66
41
46
Total number of proprietors . 291
The ducal family of Gordon derives its name and
chief titles from the lands of Gordon and Huntly in
this county; but since acquiring their princely estate
and residence in the north, to which they have trans-
ferred these names, they have given off their ancient
Berwickshire estate in feu, retaining the superiority
only. The dukedom of Roxburgh has a shooting-
lodge, and some sheep-farm lands of small compara-
tive importance, in the bosom of the Lammermoor
hills. The estate and residence of the Earl of Home
is at the Hirsel, near Coldstream. Marchmont house,
the scat of the last earl of that name, is now in the
possession of Sir Hugh Purves Hume Campbell,
Bart. The Earls of Buchan, Lauderdale, Weniyss,
Haddington, Breadalbane, and Roseberry, and Lord
Douglas of Douglas, have all estates in this county,
but their residences and principal estates are else-
where.
The customary boll of Berwickshire is equal to
1.048 Linlithgow barley bolls, or to 1.529 Lin-
lithgow wheat bolls. It is consequently equal to
.779 parts in the 1000 of the Winchester quarter, or
to 6.237 Winchester bushels. In the western parts
of Berwickshire, adjoining Roxburghshire, the Rox-
burgh customary measures used to be employed ;
but in Berwick market — the great mart of Merse
grain — all kinds of corn were sold and delivered by
the customary Berwickshire boll, there called the
old boll; as another customary measure was used
farther south, understood to contain two Win-
136
BERWICKSHIRE.
Chester bushels, and called the new boll. Ship-
borne lime, imported only at Eyemouth, is sold un-
slaeked by a customary lime boll, which is under-
stood to be only equal to the East Lothian peas
boll, or about half a Winchester quarter. Lime and
coals from Northumberland, or rather North Dur-
ham, are understood to be delivered at the coal-pits
and lime-kilns by the same measure. In Berwick-
shire, potatoes are usually sold by measure. Six
tills of the corn firlot up to the edge of the wood,
or a little higher, or four fills heaped by hand as
high as they can go, were counted as one boll; being
about 9 Winchester bushels, and supposed equal to
476 English pounds. In Berwick township, the uni-
versal custom was to give 560 English pounds as a
boll of potatoes. The Berwickshire ton of potatoes
for the English market was 28 cwt. In Berwick
market, fresh butter was sold by a customary pound
of 18 avoirdupois ounces; while in the country mar-
kets, the tron pound of 22s; ounces was used, which
was also the usual pound for cheese, while that for
wool was 24 ounces. The legal firkin of 56 English
pounds was universally used for salt butter, but
usually a pound or two heavier to allow for brine.
Fresh salmon — a principal staple of Berwick, and a
considerable part of which comes from fishings with-
in this county — was sold to the coopers, or salmon-
dealers, by a customary stone of 18J avoirdupois
pounds. The Berwickshire peck is ^ of a firlot,
instead of i.
Berwickshire is a strictly pastoral and agricultural
district. The only manufacture of any importance,
within the county, is that of paper, at Brootnhouse,
Ayton, and Allan-bank paper mills. These three
mills in 1808 gave employment to 200 individuals,
and paid above .£4,000 yearly of excise duties.
They might at that period manufacture paper to the
value of above .£25,000 annually, the far greater
part of which was sent to London. The Millbank
paper mills in the parish of Ayton, pay about £3,000
a-year of excise duty. The manufacture of woollens
and linens within the county, is so small as not to
merit consideration ; being confined, in the former,
entirely to coarse goods for ordinary use ; and, in
the latter, to household linens for farmers and la-
bourers' families. The expense of fuel is rather hos-
tile to the introduction of the woollen manufacture,
for which this county affords ample materials; yet
the example of Gallashiels, a very short distance from
the extreme western part of the county, gives war-
rant for believing that it might succeed here. The
manufacture of ginghams has been recently introduced
with great success at Eaklston : which see.
The fishery upon the coast is not of very material
importance. It gave employment in 1808 to up-
wards of 100 fishermen, with about 20 boats, at
eight small fishing-stations. Fish carriers, called
cadgers, purchase from the fishers, and distribute the
white fish, codlings, haddock, whitings, skate, haly-
but, and flounders, and a few turbot, into the inland
country, and often as far as Edinburgh. The herring
fishery on the coast is exceedingly precarious ; but
during some seasons no less than 10,000 barrels have
been brought into Eyemouth. A few red herring
houses at Eyemouth were once well-employed. Some
boats or small vessels go annually to the herring-
fishery on the coast of Caithness. The salmon
fishery in Tweed is of considerable importance, but
the principal share of it belongs to the township of
Berwick, and the opposite side of the Tweed. From
Berwick bounds, up to where the fishery ceases to
be important, half of the river belongs to England,
and the other half to Scotland ; and the 3 lower
miles of the river — by far the most important — be-
long entirely to England and Berwick. Mr. Home,
in 1797, estimated the rental of the salmon-fishings
on the Berwickshire side of the Tweed at £1,500 a-
year. They have of late years greatly fallen off in
productiveness.
The chief line of road running through this county
is the Great post road from Berwick to Edinburgh,
which follows the outline of the coast, generally
at a little distance from the sea. Mr. Blackadder
estimated the total extent of roads in this county
at 647 miles ; it must now considerably exceed this.
At the close of last century, Mr. Home estimated
the inhabitants of the Merse at 20,075 ; and those of
Lammermoor and Lauderdale at 9,633 ; making a
total of 29,708. He also arranged the whole popu-
lation as under, which enumeration is here copied as
not incurious, though, perhaps, not very rigidly pre-
cise in its data : —
1. Class. — Landed Interest.
1. Resident proprietors or heritors, with their fami-
lies and servants ....... 1,470
2. Clergy and schoolmasters of all denominations,
with ditto 4(i0
3. Tenants, with their families and in-door servants 3,2+0
4. Labourers of the laud with tlteir families 15,455
5. Agricultural artizans, and their families . . 2,4U0
6. Brewers, and household trades, with their fami-
lies aud servants 2(50
Total of the landed interest
23,275
2. Class. — Remaining inhabitants.
7 Paper makers, and their families .... 220
8. Weavers, and other manufacturers and artizans,
not agricultural, with their families . . 900
9. Salmon fishers, and their families . . . £g0
10. Salt water fishers, and their families . . 325
11. Inhabitants of towns 4.6J9
12. Suudries nondescript 139
Total of these 6,433
General total . . 2y,7U8
Berwickshire is divided into 31 parishes, of which
18 may be considered as in the Merse, and 13 in
Lammermoor. Those belonging to the Merse dis-
trict are: 1. Whitsom; 2. Chirnside; 3. Fouldean;
4. Eccles; 5. Coldingham ; 6. Hutton ; 7. Dunse;
8. Coldstream ; 9. Langton ; 10. Ayton; ll.Edrom;
12. Mordington; 13. Fogo ; 14. Eyemouth; 15.
Buncle; 10. Swinton; 17- Nenthorn ; 18. Ladykirk.
The Lammermoor district contains: 19. Legert-
wood ; 20. Greenlaw; 21. Cockburnspath ; 22.
Merton; 23. Channelkirk; 24. Abbey St. Bathans;
25. Earlston; 26. Westruther; 27. Lauder; 28.
Longformachus; 29. Polwarth; 30. Gordon; 31.
Cranshaws. To these must be added Home, for-
merly a parish by itself, but now united with the
parish of Stichel in the county of Roxburgh. The
largest parishes are those of Lauder and Colding-
ham ; the smallest is Eyemouth The Berwickshire
parishes are classified under three presbyteries, —
Dunse, Chirnside, antl Lauder ; and are all, with
the exception of Cockburnspath, within the synod
of Merse and Teviotdale. — The number of parochial
schools within the county in 1834 was 34; and of
private schools, 59. The total number of scholars
was estimated at 4,998.
The population of the county, as enumerated in
the years 1801, 1811, 1821, aud" 18.31, is as follows:
1801, pop. 30.62L; 1811, pop. 30,779; 1821, pop.
33,385, 1831, pop. 34,048. In 1821, the number of
houses inhabited was 5,803, and in 1831 it was 6,159 ;
the number of families in 1821 was 7,165, and in
1831 it was 7,385; the number of houses building in
1821 was 42, and in 1831 it was 13; the number of
houses uninhabited in 1821 was 276, and in 1831 it
was 267; the number of families employed in agri-
culture in 1821 was 3,334, and in 1831 it was 2,921 ;
the number of families employed in trade, manufac-
tures, and handicraft in 1821 was 1,923, and in 1831
it was 1,915; the number of all other families not
BERWICKSHIRE.
137
comprised in the two preceding classes in 1821 was
1,908, and ill 1831 it was 2,549. In 1821 the
number of males was 15,976, and the number of
females was 17,409, and in 1831 it was males,
16,239; females, 17,809. Of late years the migra-
tion Irom Berwickshire has been considerable. The
poor-law commissioners, in a recent report, state
that in the year 1836-7, in 17 parishes of this
county, the number of paupers relieved, out of a
population of about 20,000 persons, was 755; and
that the amount of allowances granted to them was
.£3,441 14s. 6d., to permanent paupers, and £274
Ss. lOd. to temporary paupers, making a total of
£3,716 3s. 4d., independently of expenses incidental
to management. Although these amounts are some-
what less than the corresponding particulars of the
unions in Northumberland, yet if they are compared
with the statements relating to the Shropshire
unions, and even with the population and expendi-
ture in some parts of England, in which, previously
to the passing of the poor-law amendment act,
pauperism was most burdensome, we shall find
that the comparison is by no means favourable to
the Scotch county, and that the pecuniary burthen
thrown on the occupiers in that district is greater
than is now the case in the English districts adverted
to, notwithstanding these districts must still be con-
sidered as in a transition state towards still better
management.
Anciently, the agricultural population of Berwick-
shire was chiefly collected in farm-towns or villages,
in which ten, twelve, or more small farmers, with their
rick-yards, and outhouses and cottagers, were crowd-
ed together. These villages are now deserted, so far
as the farmers and their immediate servants are con-
cerned, and (arm-houses, with their yards, buildings,
rick-yards, and cottages for married servants, are
now placed centrally on every farm. Many of the
old farm-towns, — the ancient abodes of idleness,
poverty, and dissipation, — have now become clean
country-villages, tilled with industrious mechanics of
all kinds, shop-keepers and labourers, who work for
the surrounding farmers. The circumstances of the
agricultural labourers in this county are thus de-
scribed by an intelligent writer in the ' Quarterly
Journal of Agriculture,' No. 27. " The terms of
the engagement of a married ploughman are the
following : — A house, seldom less than 24 feet
by 15, and which is large enough to form, by the
appropriate arrangement of the furniture, one large,
and one small apartment ; — a garden, containing
perhaps 10 or 12 perches of land, situated generally
behind the bouse ; — a cow, kept all summer on grass,
and accommodated in winter in a cow-house, with
straw, and 3 cartloads of turnips in spring, or in lieu of
the turnips, 60 stones of hay; — the produce ofl,000
yards of potatoes, measured along the drills, the
ploughman supplying the seed, and the farmer be-
stowing the dung and the labour ; — 60 bushels of oats,
18 bushels of barley, and 6 bushels of peas, of the best
quality; but, should there be none of the best, then
of the quality next to the seed corn ; the corn being
given about Christmas; — as much ground as would
sow one peck of linseed, but this allowance is now
commuted to the setting of 500 yards more of pota-
toes, linen cloth being bought cheaper than the best
that can be manufactured by the poor people ; — ■
formerly poultry and sheep were kept for plough-
men, but now the value of their maintenance is
commuted into money, 15s. for the poultry, and £3
for the sheep yearly, and this is all the money the
ploughman receives : — coals are driven to the plough-
men when required, but this is accomplished at little
expense to the farmer, inasmuch as the carts bring
them which, would return empty from the delivery
of corn. The value of all these allowances mav be
estimated as not exceeding £26 a-year, which makes
the wages of a ploughman 10s. a-week. For all
these considerations, which have evidently been
formed for the comfort of the ploughman, he is
obliged to take charge of, and work one pair of
horses, in every requisite operation connected with
the farm ; — he must attend the stable every morning,
noon, and night, to give food to the horses; — he
must take his turn with the ploughmen to remain at
home on Sunday to fodder and water the horses;- —
he must work in winter as long as there is day-light,
and in summer ten hours a-day in the fields, and in
seed-time and harvest his hours of labour are unlimit-
ed ; — he must supply a female labourer to work at
farm labour at all seasons, and for the same time as
himself, when required ; and for whose labours he
receives eightpence or tenpence a-day. when she is
employed, according to the rate of wages; this female
must reap corn during harvest, as rent for the house
and garden, for which she receives the oidinary
victuals allowed in harvest; — his own family must
feed his cow* in winter; — and be must work his gar-
den only at leisure hours. Most farmers erect a pig-
stye, or allow one to be erected in the garden, in
winch the ploughman feeds a pig at his own expense,
for his domestic consumption. The manure to the
garden is supplied from the ploughman's own house
and the pig-stye. Should the female worker get
constant employment, the ploughman may just clear
himself with her labour ; if not, he will certainly lose
by her maintenance and wages, which are from £6
to £S a-year ; but, should he have a daughter to
supply the place of a hired servant, her labour will
be profitable to him. He generally earns a little
money from his cow, for butter and cheese, provided
she is a gootl one, and his wife manages his domestic
affairs cleanly and thriftily. He receives a sixpence
for drink-money when he goes from home with the
horses, on the delivery of corn. These terms ma*
appear complicated to those who are accustomed to
simpler, but in practice they are very easily under-
stood. The farm-steward receives, in addition to
the terms of the ploughman, a little more money,
and sometimes a bushel and a half of light wheat, as
a compensation lor his greater responsibility. His
wages are seldom under £30 a-year. His duty is to
give the corn for the horses every day out of the
horse-corn chest; to order and distribute the labour
of the farm ; to superintend the labour of the women
in the fields in summer, and in the thrashing and
cleaning of the corn in the barn in winter; to sow
the corn, and to build it into stacks; and generally
to keep a watchful eye on all things for his master's
interest. He is exempted from staying at home on
Sunday, but he must supply a female to work in the
fields; and to reap the harvest, as rent for his house
and garden. The shepherd, in addition to the
ploughman's allowance, receives the keep of eight
ewes summer and winter. He must dispose of these
lambs after weaning in July, with the exception of
two ewe- lambs and two gimmers, which he keeps on
to renew his ewe stock, two of which he must sell
off every autumn before tupping time in October.
His wages seldom amount to less than £35 a-year.
The shepherd is generally the servant on the farm
who receives the highest wages, but his hours of
labour are unlimited. His duty is very constant and
fatiguing when a large flock and a wide range of pas-
ture occur. He must go through his flock early in
the morning and late at night, and at other times
during the day, and count his flock once a-day ; he
must keep them clean from scab, maggots, and other
filth ; he must watch the ewes at the lambing-season
night and day, and castrate the tup lambs ; he must
138
BERWICKSHIRE.
wash the sheep and clip the wool, and hathe them for
turnip-feeding in winter ; he must be able to slaughter
sheep and pigs neatly ; and lie must give such general
assistance in harvest as his time permits, such as
taking the reapers' victuals to the harvest-field, and
binding up loose corn to be led in. He must also
supply a female to work in the field and reap the
harvest, as rent for his house and garden. In regard
to unmarried ploughmen, when they live with their
fathers or friends, who are ploughmen, they receive
the same allowance of corn as they do ; but the keep
of the cow is commuted to them in money, and they
are exempt from supplying a field-worker. When
an unmarried ploughman takes up house, he receives
the same wages as a married one, and is bound to
supply a female worker. When an unmarried plough-
man gets his victuals in the farm-house, as the other
domestic servants, the rest of his wages is given in
money, £5 half-yearly, according to the rate of
wages ; and he sleeps in some apartment in the stead-
ing. Female domestic servants live in the farm-
house and receive £5 or £6 in the summer, and
about £3 in the winter half-year. Their duty is to
milk the cows, feed the calves, perform the dairy
operations of making butter and cheese, do kitchen
work ; and one of them, when not fully occupied in
the house, goes to work in the field or barn. Stable-
boys get their meat in the house, and receive £2 or
£3 half-yearly. They keep the riding-horses and
gig, if there is one, attend to visitors' horses, and go
errands. Cottagers or labourers who work with the
spade where they can get work, smiths, and carpen-
ters, take their houses and shops on similar terms.
Each supplies a field worker, who reaps the harvest
as rent for the house and garden ; and each gets 500
yards of potatoes set, and the carriage of two cart-loads
of coals. The smith undertakes to shoe the horses
and uphold the iron-work of all the implements on
the farm, for £3 a-year and the carriage of one cart-
load of smithy coals, for every pair of horses. The
carpenter upholds all the wood-work of the imple-
ments, and supplies a pair of cart-wheels without
the rings for £3 the pair of horses yearly. The ac-
counts of both are settled half-yearly. The smith
and carpenter, with all their apprentices and journey-
men, generally lend a hand for a day at the building
of the hay-stack, for their meat. A regular hedger
and ditcher, when such is kept on a farm, is regarded
as a hired servant, though his house is let to him on
the same condition as a cottager. He either receives
his wages entirely in money, at so much per week
and settled half-yearly, or in corn like the plough-
man, and the remainder in money. His wages may
amount to £30 a-year. His duty is to cut, switch,
clean, and repair gaps in the hedges; scour ditches
to prevent the overflow of water; to cut water-
furrows across headlands and in hollow parts of fields
to prevent the accumulation of surface-water. He
assists the steward to build corn-stacks and sow
corn ; the shepherd to clip wool and wash and bathe
the sheep. Frequently the ploughmen assist him to
cut the long water-furrows in new sown fields, if the
weather appears precarious."
No Druidical monuments have been discovered
within this county; but in several places cairns of
stones denote the graves of those who had fallen in
battle. In the parish of Eccles, at Crosshall, there
is an upright stone column, with various sculptures;
but there is no inscription, nor is there any tradition
concerning it. On the ridge between Coldingham
and Bunkle there are vestiges of five oval and cir-
cular encampments. Similar remains of antiquity
mav also be traced on Cockburn law, on Habchester,
and at Chesters in Foggo parish. Herrit's d)ke, a
mile from Greenlaw, is an earthen mound, with a
ditch on one side of it ; and not many years ago it
could have been traced 14 miles eastward. Edin's
or Wodin's hall, about a mile below the abbey of St.
Bathan, on the Whitadder, consists of three concen-
tric circles of stone, 7 feet and 10 feet distant from
one another : the diameter of the innermost circle is
about 20 feet. On the south are deep and wide
trenches; and eastward are traces of several camps.
There are remains of several religious houses, viz.
the monastery of Coldingham, the abbey of Dry burgh,
St. Bathan's, &c. Many castles and places of strength,
were built in this shire after the 1 1th century. The
castle of Berwick was the residence of David I.
Home castle, in the 12th century, was the seat of
the family of Home ; the tower of Cockburnspath
was built, perhaps, by the Earls of Dunbar. Fast
castle, on a rocky cliff overhanging the sea, was long
ago demolished. Lauder or Thirlstane castle was
built by Edward I. There were many other castles in
different parts of the county, viz. Cranshaw, Huntly
in Gordon parish, Edrington in Mordington parish,
&c*
At the period of the Roman invasion, Berwick-
shire was inhabited by the Ottadini. It was after-
wards invaded by bands of Saxons from Germany,
who ingrafted their language and manners on those
of the original inhabitants. The conquests of these
foreigners extended a considerable way along the
shores to the east and west, and in course of time
they gave the land thus secured to themselves the
title of Lothian. The whole area of Berwickshire
was comprehended in this Saxon territory, which
received the name of Saxonia in the Scoto-Irish
Chronicle, but was called Bernicia in the age of
Bede. Until 1020, this district of country was in-
cluded within the kingdom of Northumberland. In
that year it was ceded to Malcolm II. by Cospatrick,
Earl of Northumberland, who settling in Scotland,
was created Earl of Dunbar. In 1097 Edgar, the
son of Malcolm, acquired the sovereignty of Ber-
wickshire, which on his death he bequeathed, along
with part of Cumberland and Lothian, to his brothei
David. Under this personage Berwickshire rose
into consequence, and the town of Berwick came to
be a seat of merchandise, and known for the value of
its fisheries. About this epoch many Norman and
Anglo-Saxon families settled- in Berwickshire, and
laid the foundation of a number of noble houses still
ranked in the peerage of the country. It appears
likewise that the town of Berwick became a settle-
ment of Flemish and other foreign tradesmen. Ber-
wickshire suffered in the succeeding centuries in all
the wars between the two hostile nations, and was
occasionally involved in disputes with its neighbour
the palatine bishop of Durham. Berwick, and its
bridge across the Tweed, were in general chief and
special objects of dispute between the belligerents.
Henry II. in 1174, wrenched Berwick and its castle
from his captive, William. Richard I. again restored
them to Scotland. The disputes regarding the suc-
cession to the crown, after the death of Alexander
III., involved Berwick in many miseries. In 1291
it was given up to Edward I. A lew years after-
wards, Berwick renounced its allegiance, and in 1296
was taken by assault by Edward. After the defeat
of the English at Falkirk, they retained Berwick for
• The antiquities of Berwickshire are described in the Border
history of England and Scotland, by the Rev. Messrs. l'hilip
aud George Kedpath, 4to. 177b'. Some conjectures concerning
ancient camps and cairns ou Lammermonr are inserted in the
Scots Mag. 175y. A dissertation oil Dunse spa, by Francis
Home, was published in 1751, 8vo. A map, from an actual
survey, on a senile of one inch to a mile, constructed by Arm.
strong, was published in 4 sheets, 1771. Mr. Blackadder publish-
ed a good two-sheet map of thi6 county in 17i)7. A largo map
from a survey in 1820-0, was published by Sharp and Co.,
London.
BER
139
BER
twenty years. In 1318 Berwick was once more, and
for the last time, attached to the Scottish monarchy.
During the reign of James III., the crown was covet-
ed by the Duke of Albany, who, to support his pre-
tensions, introduced an English army into North
Britain, under the Duke of Gloucester, afterwards
Richard III. The affair ended in compromise; hut
Gloucester refused to withdraw his forces unless
Berwick was delivered into his hands. After a per-
severing diplomatic struggle, the Scotch were forced
to accede to the dishonourable terms; and on the
24th of August, 14S2, this oft-contested town and
castle were resigned to England. In 1551 it was
made a free town, independent of both England and
Scotland, which it still remains, with many privileges
peculiar to itself and its citizens. It is governed by
English laws, and does not come within the scope of
the present work. After it ceased to be the county-
town, the affairs of the shire were administered at
Dunse or Lauder; but on Greenlaw becoming the
property of Sir George Home of Spot, in 1596, it was
declared the most fit to be the shire-town, and this
arrangement was ratified by parliament in November,
1600. It did not, however, become the head-town
of the countv, in everv particular, till 1096.
BERWICK (NORTH), a parish and a royal
burgh, in the shire of Haddington, so called to dis-
tinguish it from the town and territory of Berwick-
upon-Tweed, which is sometimes described as South
Berwick. The parish is bounded on the north by
the frith of Forth ; on the east by Whitekirk parish;
on the south by Whitekirk, Preston, and Dirleton
parishes ; and on the west by Dirleton. The coast
towards the east is bold and rocky ; towards the
west it presents considerable stretches of level sand
and Hat grassy downs. Several rocky islets stud the
coast. A range of low but in some parts very
picturesque hills stretches across the southern part
of this parish, from Fenton tower, eastwards to
Whitekirk hill ; but the most remarkable hill is
North Berwick law, a very beautiful conical shaped
hill which, rising to the height of about 940 feet
above sea-level from a fiat country, is visible from all
sides at a great distance, and forms a well-known
land-mark to mariners. A few small rivulets in-
tersect the parish. The soil is in a high state of
cultivation, and the annual rental is about £25,000.
Population, in 1801, 1,583; in 1831, 1,821. Houses
284. As-essed property £12,976. — This parish is
in the presbytery of Haddington, and synod of Lo-
thian and Tweeddale. Patron, Sir Hew Dalrvmple,
Bart. Minister's stipend .£306 2s. 5d., with a glebe
of the annual value of £35, and 12 solan geese, with
the feathers on, from the Bass. Unappropriated
teinds £434 15s. 6d. Church built in 1670 ; altered
in 1770; reseated in 1819; sittings 550 A United
Secession congregation was established here in 1769.
Church built in 1832; cost £(130; sittings 390.
Stipend £105, with a manse and garden. There are
a parochial and a sub-parochial school, and three
private schools, in this parish; at which about 250
children are educated.
The most interesting natural object in this parish
is the Bass rock, which has already been described
under that head. The most interesting relic of
former ages is Tantallon castle, which will also be
described in a separate article. About a quarter of
a mile west of the town of North Berwick stand
the ruins of an abbey, or Cistertian nunnery, founded
in 1154 by Duncan, Earl of Fife. At the Reforma-
tion this nunnery contained 11 nuns, and was well-
endowed. It presents few traces of its former mag-
nificence. Views of it are given by Grose Adjoining
the harbour, on a small sandy knoll, are the slight
"einains of what is called the Auld Kirk, and which
has evidently at one period been surrounded bv the
parish burying-ground, now nearly washed away by
the sea.
The royal burgh and sea-port of North Berwick
is 22 miles north-east by east of Edinburgh; 11
north-west of Dunbar; and 9 north-north-east of
Haddington, It mainly consists of two streets
nearly at right angles to each other; but the parlia-
mentary boundary extends from the Yellow Craig
rock on the east, to Point Garry on the west — a
distance of nearly a mile in a direct line, but con-
siderably more by the curvatures of the coast — with
an average breadth betwixt the shore and the south-
ern boundary line of about 360 yards. There are 33
houses of £10 rent and upwards, within these boun-
daries. The municipal constituency, in 1839, was
24. The burgh joins with Haddington, Dunbar,
Jedburgh, and Lauder, in returning a member to
parliament. North Berwick is said to have had the
distinction of being a port from the time of Robert
II., and was created a royal burgh by Robert III.
Its privileges were confirmed bv a charter of James
VI., dated 18th September, 1568. It stands in a
rich and well-cultivated neighbourhood, and has the
character of having once been a place of some trade,
but at what period is nowhere stated. Sir. Tucker,
in his enumeration of the ports of Scotland in 1656,
does not even mention North Berwick, though he
notices Eyemouth and Dunbar, and the minor ports
of the Forth up to Borrovvstouuness. In the report
of the commissioners appointed by the convention of
royal burghs, in 1691, to visit the different burghs,
and report upon their condition, it is stated " that
there were neither yearly fairs nor weekly markets ;"
and the other observations on its trade are summed
up in these words, " ships they have none, nor ferry
boat, except two fish-boats which pay nothing to the
town." At the present day the harbour is formed
by a tolerably good pier, on which considerable sums
have been laid out ; but it is dry at low water, and
neither very easy of access, nor very well sheltered
when gained. There were in 1834 five vessels be-
longing to the port, amounting in burden to 249 tons.
Ten years before that the tonnage was 299 tons.
For forty years the trade may be considered to have
been stationary, the letting of the customs and shore-
dues having varied very immaterially during the
greatest part of that time. " There has latterly,"
say the Parliamentary commissioners, " been a great
falling-off in the grain and lime trade, but new ob-
jects of traffic have sprung up in the export of pota-
toes, turnips, and flour ; and within the last ten years
there has been a considerable increase in the impor-
tation of foreign rape cake, and crushed bones for
manure. There are no manufactures, and no traces
of any such ever having existed in the borough.
There are still no regular markets, arrd only two
annual fail's, one in the month of June, arid the other
in the mouth of November." A weekly stock grain-
market has recently beerr established here, with every
prospect of success from the rich agricultural charac-
ter of the surrounding district. It is held on Monday.
The revenue of the burgh, m 1833, was £141 18s.,
of which £S5 arose from customs and shore-dues.
The expenditure during the same year was £124 5s.
2d. ; and the debt amounted to £794 19s. 8(1. The
revenue, in 1S38-9, was £142. The municipal
government is vested in 12 councillor's, who elect 2
baillies, and a treasurer. The town-clerk is appoint-
ed by the magistrates during pleasure, and has a
salary of £10 10s. There is no regular burgh-court,
but sheriff small-debt courts are held here three or
four times in the year. The burgesses have a right
of commonty on the links on both sides of the town
In 1814, the town sold the island of Craigleith.
BIG
140
BIN
lying off the harbour, to Sir Hew Dalrymple for
£400. — .North Berwick is an excellent bathing-place,
the beach on both sides of the harbour presenting
fine gently sloping sands, and the air being remark-
ably pure and salubrious. The links also afford good
ground for the diversion of golfing, while the neigh-
bourhood presents very pleasing scenery — The
parish-kirk of North-Berwick is famous in the annals
of witchcraft, as having been a favourite rendezvous
of the Lothian witches and wizards.
BIGG A, one of the Shetland isles, lying in Yell
sound.
BIGG AR, a parish in the upper ward and shire of
Lanark; bounded on the east by Peebles-shire, from
which it is separated by Candy burn, a tributary of
the Biggar ; on the south by Peebles-shire and the
parish of Culter ; on the west by Libberton parish ;
and on the north by Libberton, Walston, and Ool-
phiston. Its superficial area is estimated at 5,852
Scots acres. The surface is diversified, but upon
the whole the district is an upland and hilly one.
The principal stream is the Biggar, which rises on
the southern skirts of Libberton parish, and flows
south towards the town of Biggar, between two
ridges of considerable elevation, — that on the east
attaining, in the Bushy Berry or Bizzy berry,* an
elevation of 1,150 feet, and that on the west rising
to 1,260 feet. After flowing through the town, the
Biggar turns to the south-east, and on the southern
confines of the parish enters a stretch of open level
ground, which here extends between the head-streams
of the Clyde on the west, and of the Tweed on the
east. The descent, however, inclines to the Tweed ;
but so gradually that the Clyde does in fact, when
swollen by heavy rains, discharge a portion of its
waters eastwards into the Biggar, which joins the
Tweed a little below Drummelzier. The elevation
of this rill above sea-level is about 700 feet, and
the descent to the Tweed, in a course of about 7
milei, is 25 feet. The real rental of the parish, in
1791, was about £1,800; in 1834, it was £4,671.
Population of the parish, in 1801, 1,216; in 1831,
1,915. Assessed property, in 1815, £4,017- Houses
304. — The town of Biggar is a borough of barony.
In 1831, it contained 1,454 inhabitants. It consists
chiefly of one long wide street. The Commercial
bank of Scotland has a branch here; there is also a
Savings' bank. Three fairs are held here in the
year, viz. at Candlemas, Midsummer, and on the last
Thursday of October, old style, for horses and cattle.
It is 27j miles south by west of Edinburgh This
parish is in the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale,
and is the seat of a presbytery. Patron, Admiral
Fleming. Minister's stipend £263 14s. 7d., with a
glebe of the value of £30. Unappropriated teinds
£146 5s. 7d. The collegiate church of Biggar was
founded in 1545, by Malcolm 3d Lord Fleming, lord-
high-chamberlain of Scotland; and largely endowed
by him for the support of a provost, 8 prebendaries,
4 singing boys, and 6 poor men. It is built in the
form of a cross ; the fabric is entire, but the steeple
and spire have never been finished. It has under-
gone some cruel mutilations, even in very recent
times A Burgher congregation was formed here in
1760. Minister's stipend £130. Church seated for
450. A Relief congregation svas formed in 1780.
Minister's stipend £110. Church seated for 700.
Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4^d., with about £75
lees, and other emoluments. Average number of
pupils 150. There is also a private school attended by
about 50 children. — At the west end of the town of
Biggar is a tumulus, or moat-hill, which appears never
* In Hamilton of Wisliaiv's 'Description of the Siiirea of
Lanark anj Renfrew,' it is called Buziebiffgur.
to have been opened ; and there are vestiges of three
camps, each of a roundish figure, at different places
in the neighbourhood. — " There is tradition of a bat-
tle having been fought at the east end of the town,
between the Scots, under the command of Sir William
Wallace, and the English army, who were said to
be 60,000 strong, wherein a great slaughter was
made on both sides, especially among the latter."
[Old Statistical Account.] " It has been alleged,"
says Mr. Carrick, " that, on this memorable occasion,
Edward commanded in person ; but such could not
have been the case, as the fhiglish monarch was not
in the country at the time. That a considerable
battle was fought in the neighbourhood, there is
reason to believe, as well from current tradition, as
from the number of tumuli which are still to be seen.
These accounts, however, are decidedly at variance
with truth, both in regard to the amount of the
English, and the person who commanded. It is more
probable, that the enemy did not exceed 8,000, or at
most 10,000 men, part of which appears to have
been under the command of Roden, Lord de Whieh-
enour. On the side of the Scots, Sir Walter New-
bigging headed a body of cavalry. His son David,
a youth, at that time little more than fifteen years of
age, held a command under him, and the well-tried
military talents of the father were not disgraced by
the efforts of the young patriot, whose conduct on
this occasion was afterwards rewarded by the honour
of knighthood, probably conferred by the hand of
our hero himself. The family of Newbigging came
originally from England; and Sir Walter and his
son, on this occasion, found themselves opposed to
their near kinsman, the Lord of Whiehenour." [' Life
of Wallace.'] Edward II. spent the first six days of
October, 1310, at Biggar. — In 1651, Boghall castle in
this parish, held out for the common weahh of England,
against General Leslie's army. This strength has
long been dismantled, and has nearly disappeared, but
more in consequence of the ruthless hand of man
than that of time. Boghall stands upon a flat, or
rather a marshy ground, half-a-mile south from the
town, and is probably so called from its situation.
This castle formerly belonged to the Flemings, Earls
of Wigton, a family of great antiquity. They ac-
quired the lands and barony of Biggar by the mar-
riage of Sir Patrick Fleming with one of the
daughters and co-heiresses of the brave Sir Simon
Fraser, of Oliver Castle. This Sir Patrick was the
second son of Sir Robert Fleming, who died in 1314;
and, like him, was a faithful friend to King Robert
Bruce. In 1451, Sir Robert de Fleming obtained a
charter from James II., erecting the town of Biggar
into a free burgh of barony, and by the same was
created a lord of parliament, by the title of Lord
Fleming, of Cumbernauld : and, on the 15th of June,
1452, Malcolm Fleming, his nephew, procured a
grant under the great seal, of the lands and barony
of Boghall, and some other estates. The mansion
of Boghall continued in the family of the Flemings,
until a few years ago, when Admiral Sir Charles
Elphinstone Fleming, of Cumbernauld, sold his large
estates in this parish. Mr. Grose has preserved a
view of Boghall castle.
BIN of CULLEN, a remarkable hill in Banff-
shire, about l.V mile south-west of the town of Cul-
len, and 2 miles from the sea, elevated 1,050 feet
above sea-level. From its conical shape, it forms a
conspicuous land-mark to mariners.
B1NCHINNIN MOUNTAINS, that portion of
the Grampians which lies in Forfarshire. " None of
these mountains," says Headrick in his 'General
View of the Agriculture of Angus,' "are so abrupt
and majestic as many other alpine districts of Sjot
land, nor are they covered with such valuable herbage
BIN
141
BIR
as Mis to the lot of some. These mountains are
generally rounded and tame, are mostly covered with
a thin coat of moorish soil, and carry stunted heath.
Perhaps the only exception to this observation, are
the mountains at the head of Glen Clova. There
the glen divides into two narrow defiles, and the
valley is bounded by a mountain which rises abrupt
and majestic, between the defiles into which the
glen divides. This, and the contiguous mountains
exhibit bold and terrific precipices; and where there
is any soil, it is clothed with green and succulent
herbage. An observation of the late Dr. "Walker,
Professor of Natural History, Edinburgh, ' That the
steepest side of mountains, islands, and continents,
is chiefly towards the west,' — is in them verified;
the most abrupt declivity of these mountains being
towards the west. It is hence, that the streams
which arise in the west and north of the county, run
chiefly south-east, and receiving in their progress in-
numerable torrents from the mountains, are swelled
into rivers before they reach the ocean. These
streams have scooped out considerable valleys among
the mountains, the principal of which are Glen Isla,
with its branches, on the west, Glen Prosen, Clova.
Lethuot, and Glenesk. The Grampian district of
this county is about 24 miles from west to east, and
from 9 to 15 miles in the opposite direction."
BINNIE, in the parish of Uphall, Linlithgowshire,
13 miles west of Edinburgh, and 2 miles fiom the
Union canal at Broxburn. There is a good sand-
stone quarry here, which is extensively used for build-
ing in Edinburgh and Glasgow. Binnie craig rises
to the height of about 450 feet.
BINNING, in the shire of Linlithgow, an ancient
parish, annexed after the Reformation to the parish
of Linlithgow. Thomas Hamilton, who was by
.Tames VI. made one of the senators in the college of
justice, secretary of state, and lord-advocate and
register, in 1613, was created Baron Binning and
Earl of Melios, which title he afterwards changed
for that of Haddington. In 1627, he was constituted
lord-privy-seal, which office he held for ten years.
The title Lord Binning is borne by the eldest son of
the Earl of Haddington.
BIRGHAM, formerly Brigham, a village on the
northern bank of the Tweed, in the parish of Eccles,
Berwickshire, immediately opposite Carham hall in
Northumberland. When Henry II. of England, re-
lying on the alleged superiority of his clergy over
those of Scotland, sent Hugh, Bishop of Durham,
into Scotland, in 1188, to collect funds for carrying
on a new crusade, the envoy, it is said, was met at
Brigham, by William the Lion, and some of his
nobles and prelates, who boldly denied the authority
of the English church over that of Scotland, and
declined to allow the proposed subsidy to be levied
in Scotland. In 1289, a meeting of the Estates of
Scotland was held here to take into consideration
the proposal for a marriage between the Prince of
Wales, and the princess Margaret of Scotland; and
in July, 1290, the treaty of Brigham — as it is called
— was signed here, by which a lasting peace seemed
to be secured to the two kingdoms, but which was
rendered null by the death of the young princess on
whom so many fair hopes depended, at Orkney, on
her voyage to Scotland from Norway, in September,
1290. See Aberdour, Fifeshire.
B1RNAM, a mountain in the parish of Little Dun-
keld, Perthshire, rendered classic ground by Shak-
speare. It rises, from the southern bank of the Tay,
to the height of 1,580 feet above sea-level. It is
about 12 miles distant from Dunsinnan hill, and was
in ancient times included within the bounds of a
royal forest. " When Malcolm Canmore came into
Scotland, supported by English auxiliaries, to recover
his dominions from Macbeth the Giant, as the country
people called him, he marched first towards Dunkeld,
in order to meet with those friends who had promised
to join him from the north. This led him to Birnam
wood, where accidentally they were induced, either
by way of distinction, or from some other motive, to
ornament their bonnets, or to carry about with them
in their hands the branches of trees. The people in
the neighbourhood stated, as the tradition of the
country, that they were distinguished in this situa-
tion by the spy whom Macbeth had stationed to
watch their motions. He then began to despair, in
consequence of the witches' predictions, who had
warned him to beware 'when Birnam wood should
come to Dunsinnan ;' and when Malcolm prepared
to attack the castle, where it was principally defend-
ed by the outer rocks, he immediately deserted it;
and flying ran up the opposite hill, pursued by Mac-
duff; but finding it impossible to escape, he threw
himself from the top of the hill, was killed upon the
rocks, and buried at the Lang Man's Grave, as it is
called, which is still extant. Not far from this
grave is the road where, according to tradition,
Banco was murdered. The resemblance between
these traditions and Shakspeare's account of the
same event, in his tragedy of Macbeth, is extremely
remarkable, and suggests the idea that this celebrated
dramatist must have collected the tradition upon the
spot; because, had he taken the subject of his play
from the Scottish historv, he must have represented
Macbeth as having perished at a different part of the
country. The only material difference between the
tradition and the tragedy is, that by the former Mac-
beth cast himself from the top of a rock ; whereas
Shakspeare, in consistency with poetical justice, as
well as to give greater interest to the catastrophe,
represents the usurper as falling in single combat
with Macduff, whom he had so deeply injured. In
Guthrie's 'History of Scotland,' (vol. viii. p. 358.)
it is stated, that, anno 1599, king James desired
Elizabeth to send biin a company of English come-
dians; with which request she complied; and James
gave them a license to act in his capital, and before
his court. ' I have great reason,' he adds, ' to think
that the immortal Shakspeare was of the number.'
There is no doubt that in 1589 plays were actually
exhibited in Perth, within a few miles of Dunsinnan
or Dunsinain. From the old records kept at Perth
of that year, it appears that on the 3d of June the
kirk-session of Perth authorized this amusement,
after having examined the copy of the play. The
actors were at that time all of them men, no women
having appeared on the stage till the reign of Charles
the Second." ['Beauties of Scotland,' vol. iv. pp.
320—322.] See Dunsinnan.
BIRNIE,* a parish in the shire of Elgin ; bounded
on the west, north, and east, by the parish of Elgin ;
and on the south by Rothes and Dallas. The figure
of the parish is irregular, but comes near to an oval
shape; the distance from the northern to the south-
ern extremity being about 5 miles, and from the
eastern to the western about 2 miles. The greater
part of the surface consists of high hills covered with
heath. The cultivated soil, however, in the valleys,
and on the sides of hills, and the several falls of water
in the rocky channel of the rivulets, have formed
some beautifully diversified scenes. The parish is
intersected by three rivulets, the Lennock, the Bar-
* "This parish was named Brenntli about the beginning of
the 13th century : a name probably derived from Brac-nut, that
is, l High land abounding in nuts;' formally hazel-trees onee
grew upon the sides of the hills and banks of the rivulets, and
the general appearance of the parish is hilly. The natives pro-
nounce itBurn-nigh, that is, ' A village near the burn orriver.'
This etymology is descriptive enough of the particular place
now called liiruie.1'— Old Statistical Account.
BIR
142
BIR
lien, and the Rushcroock, which flow into the river
Lossie. The Lossie taking its rise in the parish of
Edinkillie, and gliding through the parish of Dallas,
receives the burn of Lennock on the west side of
Birnie parish, then flows through the northern end
of the parish, and, after a course of about 25 miles,
falls into the Moray frith at the harbour of Lossie-
mouth. There are about 100 acres of deep rich
loam on its banks. This river abounds in burn-
trouts and eels. Salmon and white trouts swim up
the river about Lammas, and afford fine diversion to
the angler. The Lossie is subject to violent floods.
Its most remarkable inundations happened in the
years 1768, 1782, and 1829. The parish contains
5,784 Scots acres, of which 850 were under cultiva-
tion in 1791, and 2,130 in 1829. It is divided into
40 compact farms, varying from 20 to 120 acres, and
held in leases of 19 years. About 450 acres are
under wood. The real rent, in 1791, was £360; in
1835, £1.200. Population, in 1801, 366; in 1831,
408. Assessed property, in 1815, £10. Houses 82.
. — This parish is in the presbytery of Elgin, and synod
of Moray. Patron, the Earl of Moray. Stipend
£156 8s. 4d., with a glebe of the value of £17.
The church was repaired in 1734 and 1817, and
seats 253. It is built with hewn freestone, and con-
sists of a nave and choir. The late Mr. Shaw — a
learned and respectable clergyman of this presbytery,
who published the history of Morayshire in 1775
says, that it is probable that the bishop's first
cathedral in this diocese was situated in Birnie, and
that Simeon de Tonei, one of the bishops of Moray,
was buried in Birnie in 1184. " It is held in great
veneration by many in this county," says the Statis-
tical reporter in 1791. " They still, in some measure,
entertain a superstitious conceit that prayers there
offered up three several sabbaths will surely be
heard. Insomuch that when a person is indisposed,
or of bad behaviour, this common saying obtains,
' You have need to be prayed for thrice in the church
of Birnie, that you may either end or mend.' "
There are a parochial and a private school in this
parish. Salary of parish schoolmaster £26.— A stone
baptistery, and an old bell made of a mixture of sil-
ver and copper, of an oblong figure, named the coro-
nach, are still kept in the church as relics of antiquity.
Tradition relates that the bell was made at Rome,
and consecrated by the Pope. — The Biblestone,
having the figure of a book engraven upon it, lying
about a mile east from the church, on the side of
the road leading from Birnie to Rothes, has probably
been placed there as a land-mark. — The cairn of
Killforman, of a conical figure, 300 feet in circum-
ference at the base, has been probably placed over
the remains of a brave man whose exploits are now
forgotten — A cave in the middle of a steep rock,
near the Gedloch, was, according to tradition, haunt-
ed about 150 years ago by a gang of armed ruffians
who had no visible way of obtaining the means of
subsistence but by theft and robbery. Some vestiges
of an encampment can be traced near the burn of
Bardeu. It commands a prospect of the Moray frith,
from Speymouth to Cromarty bay. Probably the
Banes, after invading this part of the country, had a
camp there. This parish is entirely the property of
the Earl of Seafield, who has done a great deal for
its agricultural improvement, advancing the sum of
£5 to his tenants for every acre of laud brought
under cultivation.
B1RSAY and HARRAY, two united parishes
in the northern part of Pomona or the Mainland of
Orkney. Its general form is an oblong square,
measuring 7i miles by 5 miles; and, in superficies,
48 square miles, or thereabout. The parish is bound-
ed an the west and north sides by the sea. It is a
hilly but not mountainous district. There are six
lakes within the parish, which abound with ducks
and other kinds of water-fowl, and with swans in the
spring and fall of the year. There are two or three
small burns containing fine trout, and sometimes
salmon. The extent of sea-coast is about 10 miles ;
the shore is rocky. The flood-tide here sets right
in from the north-west upon the point of the Brough
of Birsay, where it splits, one part flowing east-
wards towards Evie. sound, whence it goes away with
a rapid stream towards Kirkwall ; and the other
westwards down the Sandwick shore, till it get in to
the indraught of Hoy sound, where it becomes very
strong. The head-lands are Marvvick-head on the
west, the Brough-head on the north-west, and the
North-craig on the north. The hills are covered
with heath, and wdiat is here called lubba, a sort of
grass which feeds the cattle in summer time, and
generally consists of different species of carices, bent,
and other moor-grasses. The wild quadrupeds of
this parish are, rabbits, the brown or Norwegian rat,
the short tailed field-mouse, common mice, and a
small species of mice called here wights. Seals and
otters arc also found here. The return to Dr. Web-
ster in 1755, for Birsav and Harrav, was 2,200 souls.
In 1801, the population was 2,176; in 1831, 2,245.
Houses 537. The assessed property, in 1815, was
£202. The valued rent of the parish is £3, 144 1 Is.
Scots This parish is in the presbytery of Cairston,
and synod of Orkney. Stipend £218 6s. 8d., with a
glebe valued at £21. Patron, the Earl of Zetland.
The church was built in 1664; repaired in 17C0;
and recently reseated for 565. There are several
standing stones or obelisks in this parish. Remains
of popisli chapels are numerous, because every Erys-
land of 18 penny land had one for matins and ves-
pers, but now all are in ruins. There are no towns
in this parish, and only one ancient ruinous building,
which was the palace of the Earls of Orkney. Robert
Stuart, natural brother to Queen Mary, and his son
Patrick, made great additions to this place ; it is now
in ruins, but has been built upon the model of Holy-
roodhouse, being a square area, with a well in the
middle. Above the gate was the famous inscription,
which, among other points of dittay, cost Earl Patrick
his head. It run as follows; "Dominus Robertus
Stuartus, filius Jacobi quinti Rex Scotorum, hoc opus
instruxit." Above his coat of arms was the follow-
ing motto: " Sic fuit, est, et erit." The parochial
schoolmaster has a salary of 900 merks Scots, be-
sides some perquisites, which are generally paid in
kind. The schoolmaster has likewise the session
clerkship, which yields £20 Scots. Two charity
schools have been established in this parish, by a
mortification left by Nicol Spence, church-agent. —
Harray is under the same ministry as Birsay, and is
joined with Birsay on the north-west. Towards the
west it touches Sandwick ; on the west, south-west,
and south, it is bounded by a large brackish loch
commonly called the Loch of Harry; and on the
other quarters, by Stenness, a small part of Firth,
and the hills that part it from Randale. A new
chinch has recently been erected here. The parish-
minister officiates alternately at Harray and at
Birsay ; but he employs an assistant at a salary
of £60 per annum, so as to insure service each
sabbath at each church. — An Original Secession
congregation was established at Birsay in 1801.
Church built in 1829; sittings 470. Stipend £65.
An Independent church was formed at Harray
about 1818. Stipend £60 The ancient Norse
language long prevailed in Harray, more so than
in any other part of the country, but is now worn
out: the names of places here are all undoubtedly
Norwegian.
Bill
143
BIR
BIRSE,* a par.sh in the south of Aberdeenshire,
and district of Kincardine O'Neil ; bounded on the
north by the river Dee ; on the east by Kincardine ;
on the south by Forfarshire ; and on the west by
Gleutanar. Its extent from east to west is about 1'2
miles, and from the Dee on the north to the south-
ern boundary it is nearly of equal admeasurement.
It may be divided into three large straths or districts.
The largest, in the south-east part of the parish, is
called Feughside. It has the Feugh, a tributary of
the Dee, running through it; and is about 3 miles
long, and 2 broad. On the banks of the Feugh, and
among the Grampian hills is situated the forest or
glen of Birse. The middle strath or district is called
the Water Chattie. It is about 4 miles long, and 1
broad. On the south of the burn is Midstrath, and
on the north Ballogie. The most northerly district
is along the south side of the Dee ; through it runs
the burn of Birse. The church and manse are
situated here. This district is about 2J miles long,
and lh broad. It is vulgarly called the Six Towns.
The whole parish is divided into what was called 24
towns; and each town, in 1792, was supposed to
contain from 80 to 85 arable acres. The surface is
rocky and mountainous, but beautifully diversified
with hill and dale, wood and water. The largest
plantations, and greatest number of trees of all sorts,
are on the estate of Finzean ; but among many others
were two remarkable trees, the one at Midstrath,
and the other at Ballogie. The one at Midstrath
was an ash. It was commonly called the Maiden of
Midstrath. We regret to say, this noble tree perish-
ed in one of the destructive gales in 1833. There is
no authentic record of the Maiden's birth ; but tra-
dition, with great probability, refers it to the end of
the 16th century. The following are the dimensions
of this venerable ash-tree, probably one of the most
remarkable in the North of Scotland: —
Girth of the trunk at the root . . 21 feet
Do. do. 9 feet from the ground . . 18 feet
Here it divided into four branches.
Girth of the largest 10 feet
Second 8 feet 10 in.
Third 7 feet
Fourth 6 feet
Containing 500 cubic feet at the lowest estimate.
The tree at Ballogie is a birch of the weeping sort,
from 70 to 80 feet high. It has a straight stem of
50 feet and upwards, and is 5 feet in circumference
through the whole. Three large ridges of hills run
through this parish in a south-west direction till they
terminate in the Grampians, of which indeed they
are a part. Peter-hill, the White-hill, and Mulbrax,
are in the southern ridge. The Ords, the Shooting-
greens, Tomcairn, Corse-Dardar, Midstrath, Arn-
tilly, Lamachip, and Brackenstaik, are in the middle
ridge. The most northerly ridge takes its rise at
Inchbair, and terminates at Cairnferg. On the west
of the parish are the hills of Birsemore, Deuchry,
and Mount-Ganiach. Mount Battach is also claimed
as belonging to Birse. Its height by Garden's map
of the county of Kincardine, is 1,150 yards above
the level of the sea. Mount Ganiach is conjectured
to be about 1,000 yards above sea-level. Peter-hill
and Mulbrax may be rated at 900 yards. Cairnferg,
a remarkably conspicuous conical mount, may be
about 700 yards. On Mount Ganiach there is a well
called St. Corn's well ; but concerning it there is no
tradition. The Dee here abounds with excellent
* The ancient name of this parish is said to have been Press,
meaning ill Gaelic 'a Wood or Thicket.1 A great part of the
parish is covered with natural wood, sucli as fir, birch, ash,
aiuer, mountain-ash, gean or black cherry, holly, hazel, aspen,
and oak. The naineseema to have been written Preiss, then
Breiss i and this is inscribed on the communion-cups about a
century ago. In some writings it is called Brass, and it now
ubtaius the name uf Birse. — Statistical Account in 170:2.
salmon, grilse, sea-trout, sterlings, (here called t\o\v-
brecks,) trout, and parr, with some pikes, fresh
water flounders, with finnicks. Feugh is the most
considerable stream within the parish It rises on
the western skirts of the parish from Mount Ganiach,
and flows eastwards. It produces salmon, and most
of the sorts of fish above-mentioned, and would
abound with them, were they not stopped by a con-
siderable water-fall near its influx into the Dee,
opposite to Banchory-Ternan, which prevents the
salmon from getting up except when the river is
flooded. The Feugh receives the Aven before it
leaves the parish of Birse, and then flows north-east
into the Dee. The principal roads in the parish, are
the great road from the Cairn O'Mount, which enters
this parish at the bridge of Whitestone, a mile nortli
of the inn of Cutties-Hillock, and leads northward
to the Dee at Inchbair. Another road passes through
the greater part of the parish, from the ferry over
the Dee at Aboyne, to the bridge of Whitestone.
There is a bridge over the burn of Birse, nigh the
church ; and at Potarch, over the Dee, near Inch-
bair, by which the Great south and north road is
carried across the Dee. This parish is famous for its
honey of great richness and flavour. Two men in
the Six Towns exported 100 pints each, in summer
and autumn 1791. The pint consisted of 5 lbs.
Amsterdam, and sold from 2s. 6d. to 4s. 2d. It
would now bring 10s. or 12s. " The price of la.
bour," says the Statistical reporter in 1792, " is
greatly increased from what it was. There are
living in the parish two old men who, in their
younger days, were servants, the one at 20s. and the
other at 30s. a-year. For young men to do the
same work now, there must be paid from £4 to £5 ;
and from £5 to £6, with their entertainment, in
which they are most extravagant, often requiring
better entertainment than the tenant can afford to
himself. Women-servants have from £2 to £2 10s. ;
and a few house-servants .£3; herd-boys from 12s.
to 20s. for the summer half-year. When the chil-
dren of the tenant grow up, he employs them. This
is his first relief: before, he uas much at the mercy
of merciless menials. A day-labourer — of whom we
have few — gets 6d. and victuals; at some work he
requires more ; for in harvest he gets Is. and up-
wards; a wright, 8d., and lately lOd. ; a tailor, 6d.
and victuals; a mason, from Is. 6J. to Is. 9d. with-
out victuals. The blacksmith works by the piece,
and is very extravagant in his demand. The
weaver asks 2^d. or 3d. for what was formerly
done at Id. the ell. Shoes are at an exorbitant
rate, triple of what they were 30 years ago. The
poorer sort have much ado to purchase that
necessary article. The women of the parish are
chiefly employed in the knitting of stockings, or
spinning of lint-yarn. By the former they earn,
when working on their own account, Is. Sd. or 2s.
the week; by the latter a little more. If working
on account of a master, they often earn less." Wages
are nearly doubled since this report was made ; but
provisions are also doubled in price. During the
years 1790 and 1791, meal sold from 13s. to 17s. the
boll, of 9 stone Amsterdam ; bear from 15s. to 19s.
the boll. Butter sold from 6d. to 8d. the pound, of
28 ounces ; cheese from 5s. to 6s. the stone ; eggs
at 2d. the 12 ; a chicken 2d., and a hen from 6d. to
8d. ; salmon about 3d. the pound. Illicit distillation
prevailed to a great extent in this district previous
to the late modification of the excise duties. Gor-
don of Cluny was once proprietor of upwards of
two-thirds of this parish. The valued rent is £3,139
8s. 4d. Scots. The assessed property, in 1815, was
£2,218. Population, in 1791, 1,253 ; in 1801, 1,266 ;
in 1831, 1,476. Houses, in 1831, 297 This parish is
BIR
144
BLA
in the presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil, and synod of
Aberdeen. The Crown is patron. The church,
built in 1779. is a substantial and commodious edifice.
Minister's stipend £158 7s. 4d., with a glebe of the
value of £7- The church-session are proprietors of
a piece of land which yields from £4 to £5 yearly.
Dr. Gilbert Ramsay, "of the island of Barbadoes,
mortified, in 1732, for the behoof of the poor, £500.
Robert Farquharson ofFinzean, mortified 600 merks;
and £20 were left by Isaac Robertson of Grenada,
in 1789. The parochial schoolmaster has £28 of
salary, with fees. His school is attended by about
60 children ; and there are four private schools, the
joint attendance on which is about 90. Dr. Ramsay
also mortified £500 for the support of a free school —
one of these four — in the east end of this parish. On
the hill, about a mile north-east of Finzean, bearing
the name of Corse-Dardar, there is a place marked
near the way-side with a long granite-stone, which
is reported to mark the spot where King Dardanus,
the 20th from Fergus I. was put to death.
B1RSELEY, a hamlet and colliery in the parish
of Tranent, and shire of Haddington, about 1^ mile
south of the spot on which the battle of Prestonpans
was fought in 1745. It was from the rising grounds
here, or 'Birseley brae,' that the chevalier's troops
descended to meet their opponents.
BISHOP'S LOCH, a small piece of water on the
southern skirts of the parish of New Machar, Aber-
deenshire, between Loch hills and Foulin hill.
BISHOP'S LOCH, a narrow strip of water,
about a mile in length, lung between Calder parish,
and Old Monklaml, in the shire of Lanark.
B1SHOPTON, a village in the parish of Erskine,
Renfrewshire. Bishopton ridge, which divides the
low land near Paisley from the Clyde, is composed ol
solid whinstone rock. The Glasgow, Paisley, and
Greenock railway passes through it for a distance ol
2, SOU \ards. There are two tunnels in the middle
ot the ridge, having an open part 1U0 jards long, and
70 teet deep, between them. These tunnels are 320
and 340 yards long respectively. The depth of the
open cutting at the entrance to each is 70 feet; and
the length, fioui the lace of the east tunnel is 748
yards, and from the lace of the west tunnel 946 yards.
BLACKADDER* (The), a stream of the Merse
division of Berwickshire, whose head-streams de-
scend from the mountains in the north-west part of
Westruther parish, and from Dirrington law in the
parish of Longformacus, and flowing south-east to-
wards Greenlaw, fetch a circuit to the south of that
town in one conjoined stream. From Greenlaw,
the Blackadder flows north-east through the parishes
of Greenlaw, Fogo, and Edrom, to the Whitadder,
which it joins a little above Allanton. The total
length of this stream is about 20 miles. The height
of its head-springs above sea.level may be 1,130 feet.
It is supposed to derive its name from the prevailing
dark tinge of its waters, occasioned by the nature of
the soil through which it flows.
BLACKBURN, a village in the parish of Living-
stone, 3^ miles west of Livingstone, and 2J cast of
Whitburn. The south road from Edinburgh to
Glasgow passes through it. A cotton mill here em-
plo\ed 100 hands, in 1838; and a flax mill, 42 hands.
BLACKBURN (The), a small river of Liddes-
dale, in *,he parish of Castletown, Roxburghshire,
celebrated for the romantic falls and cascades which
are formed by its stream. One of the falls is 374
feet in height, and 20 in breadth; and another oil
feet in height, and 36 in breadth. In one part of its
course a natural bridge of stone seemed to be thrown
* Usually pronounced and sometimes written Etackutcr,
which i* probably nearer the true etymology ol the word, via.
Uiauk iculer.
across the river. It was 55 feet long, 31 in soan,
and 10j broad ; and the thickness of the arch was 24
feet of solid stone. The arch was not composed o"f
an entire rock, but had the appearance of several
square stones united together in the neatest manner.
The height of the arch from the water was 31 feet.
This bridge gave way in April 1810. The Black-
burn is a tributary of the Liddel.
BLACKBURN (The), a small river in the county
of Linlithgow, which rises on the borders of Lanark-
shire in the parish of Whitburn, and forms the prin-
cipal branch of the Almond.
BLACKFORD, a parish in Perthshire, of a cir-
cular figure, having a diameter ot nearly 6 miles ;
bounded by Trinity-Gask on the north; by Audi-
terarder and Glendevon on the east ; by Alva, Tilli-
coultry, and Logie, on the south ; and by Dunblane
and Muthil on the west. A ridge of the Ochils oc-
cupies the southern part, which, towards the river
Devon, is steep and craggy ; but on the north it de-
scends gently to the flat part of the parish which is
watered by the Allan. The soil is thin, with a
gravelly bottom. A great part is marshy ; and a
moor of considerable extent, now under plantation,
occupies the northern part of the district. The
vicinity of the Ochils renders the climate moist and
unfavourable to vegetation. There are a few small
lakes from which the Ruthven and the Allan take
their rise. Freestone of a very hard quality, excellent-
ly adapted for making millstones, is obtained within
the parish. Population, in 1801, 1,520; in 1831,
1,918. Assessed property, in 1815, £10,330. Houses
in 1831, 321. — This parish is in the presbytery of
Auchterarder, and synod of Perth and Stirling.
Patron, Moray of Abercairney. Minister's stipend
£206 lis., with a glebe of the value of £18.
Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4(1., with £22 fees.
There were four private schools within the parish
in 1834. Average number of scholars at the five
schools, 250. — The village of Blackford is 9£ miles
north-east of Dunblane. A cattle-lair is held at it
on the 3d Wednesday in October. There were
formerly several chapels in this parish; and, before
the year 1745, divine service was occasionally per-
formed in one at the house of Gleneagles, the burial-
place of the family of Haldane ; and in another near
the castle of Tullibardine, in the choir of which the
dukes of Athol formerly interred. Besides these,
there are the vestiges of two chapels in Mahany, at
one of which is a burying-grouud still in use by the
inhabitants of the neighbourhood. Upon an emi-
nence, fronting Gleneagles, are the vestiges of a small
Roman camp ; there are also several Druidical cir-
cles. In this parish, the ancestors of the duke of
Montrose had their ordinary resilience, at the castle
of Kincardine, which was burned in the time of the
Civil wars, and has never been rebuilt. In Tulli-
bardine stand the remains of a castle of that name,
the scat, in former times, of the earls of Tullibar-
dine, who, for a long time alter that family came to
the titles oi Athole, resided here some part of the
year. In 1715, it was garrisoned by a party of the
Earl of Marr's army, and taken by the Duke of
Argyle; before the year 1745, Lord George Murray
and his family inhabited it; but since that time it
has been suffered to go to ruin. Tullibardine gives
the title of marquis to the illustrious family of Mur-
ray, Duke of Athole.
BLACKFORD HILL, an eminence about H
mile south of Edinburgh, divided from Brain hill on
the south by a ravine which is intersected by Braid
burn. "It is well worth while to ascend to the top of
Blackford hill, from which a fine prospect of Edin-
burgh, tlie frith of Forth, the coast of Fife, the Lo-
mond any.1 Oclnl hills, even to the Grampian inuui><
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ta'us, is commanded. In ascending from the bottom
ol the valley through which the rivulet winds, we
first reach one summit; and in gaining the next, the
heaving into view of the castle, spires, ami other
buildings of the city, piled in irregular masses, and
enveloped in the sombre obscurity of its smoke, seems
as if all were in motion by the power of enchant-
ment. On obtaining the topmost ridge of the hill,
an extent of prospect truly sublime and beautiful
spreads out before us. Immediately beneath the north
brow, Blackford mansion-house, half hid among trees,
and several others near it, of an old construction and
aspect, appear on the plain below. One of these,
namely; Grange-house, was that in which Principal
Robertson breathed his last. Winding by cautious
and slow degrees down the declivity of Blackford
lull, we descend into Egypt; through which, after
crossingthe river [brook] Jordan, we pass into Canaan
and other regions of the Holy Land ; tor thus are the
circumjacent fields iii the neighbourhood of Braid
denominated. We may take a short cut by the
iarm -house of Egypt to the turnpike-road leading
to Edinburgh by i>orrough-inoor Head, Merchieston-
house, and thence by Bruntsrield links, and the Cage
walk, into the city." [Campbell's "Journey from
Edinburgh,' vol. ii. pp. 288, 289. London, 1802. 4to.]
BLACKHOUSE, an old square tower, on Douglas
burn in Selkirkshire, about 4 miles south of Traquair,
one of the most ancient seats of the puissant family
of Douglas. It now gives name to a sheep-farm of
aljout 4,000 acres in size, belonging to the Earl of
Traquair. It is said to be mentioned as early as the
reign of Malcolm Canmore. The tower might be
built by William, first Earl of Douglas, when he
succeeded to the Forest : for Robert Bruce had
granted to his favourite warrior, Sir James Douglas,
tlie forests of Selkirk and Traquair. From the
tower of Blackhouse, according to tradition, Lady
Margaret Douglas was carried olf by her lover; be-
tween whom and her seven brothers a most bloody
scene took place, as they all perished in attempting
to bring her back to her father's house. Her lover
was also slain. Seven laige stones, on the heights
ot Blackhouse, are pointed out as marking the differ-
ent spots where the brothers fell. Lady Margaret
and her lover are said to have been buried in St.
Mary's chapel, which stood in the neighbourhood.
*' Lord William was buried in St. Marie's kirk,
Lady Margaret in Marie's quire ;
Out u' the lady's grave grew a bonuie red ruse,
Aud out o' tlie Kuight's a brier.
And they twa met, and they twa plait,
And lain they wad be near ;
And a' the waild might ken right weel,
Xhey were twa lovers dear.
But bye aud rade the black Douglas,
And wow but he was rough !
For he null'd up tlie bonny brier,
Aud tLug'd in St. Mane's loch."
Their fate is commemorated in a very beautiful tradi-
tionary ballad, of u hich we have quoted the last three
stanzas. In a MS. in the possession of Lord Traquair,
dated 1711 — from which tlie circumstances above-
mentioned are extracted — this is called ' Lord William
and Fair Margaret.' But like most of our popular bal-
lads it has borne different names. It is published, in
the Minstrelsy of the Border, vol. iii. 24-1, ecc, under
the title of ' The Douglas Tragedy.' This place
is merely mentioned by Chalmers as " Blackhouse
tower, on Douglas burn." Godscroft says, that " tlie
eldest sonne" of William, " first created Lord of
Douglas at the parliament of Forfaire," held by
Malcolm Canmore, " was Sir John of Douglasburn,
which is a parcell of ground and mannour lying be-
twixt Ettnck foirest and Peebles." According to
1.
this writer, " he and his brother William were both
knights at the same parliament," in which their
father was nobilitated. It may be added, as a fur-
ther memorial of the connection of this district with
the Crown, that the name of the King's road is still
given to a road which runs from Blackhouse to Hen-
derland, on Megget water, where it is said there
was another royal hunting-seat. This place was
held, in a later age, by that famous freebooter Cock-
burn; and here his tomb-stone is still pointed out.
On the banks of this beautiful stream, it is, indeed,
said, there are the remains of two old towers, which
appear to have been built, partly for accommodating
the kings of Scotland, when on their hunting parties
in the forest; as well as the traces of three or lour
roads in different directions across the hills, sup-
posed to have been cut out for the king and his suite
when they went a-hunting.
BLACKHOUSE HEIGHTS, a ridge of hills in
the county of Selkirk, dividing the upper part of the
vale of Yarrow from Tweeddale. The highest point
of elevation in these hills measures 2,370 feet above
the level of the sea.
BLACK ISLE (The). See Ardmeanach.
BLACKNESS, a small port on the frith of Forth,
in the parish of Camden, Linlithgowshire, 3i milts
east of Borrowstounness, and o west of Queensferry.
It was in ancient times the port of Linlithgow, from
which it is about 5 miles distant; but trade has
totally left this place, and the village owes its chief
distinction to the old castle of Blackness, which is
generally supposed to mark the eastern extremity of
Antoninus's Wall : See that article. The town
and port of Blackness were anciently of great dis»
tinction, aud formed the principal emporium of this
part of Scotland. " There were," says Sir Robert
Sibbald, "many rich men masters of ships lying
there; and the cities of Glasgow, Stirling, and Lin-
lithgow, had a great trade from thence with Holland,
Bremen, Hamburgh, Queensburgh, and Dantzick,
and furnished all the West country with goods they
imported from these places, and were loaded outwards
with the product of ourown country." The attack
of the port of Blackness was usually a principal ob-
ject with the English in their expeditions into the
frith of Forth. In 1481, under the reign of James
HI., they burnt the town with a store-ship which
was Ling in the harbour. When, in 1487, the nobles,
irritated by the conduct of James, took up arms, in
the course of military operations, they met his troops
near Blackness, and a skirmish ensued, which, ter-
minating to the disadvantage of the king, he con-
cluded with them the pacification of Blackness,
[Acts of the Parliament of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 21 OJ
which, however, did not produce any lasting har
mony. During the victorious expedition of Somer-
set into Scotland, under the reign of Edward 111. of
England, Blackness was one of the objects of attack.
The result is thus stated by Patten, in his narrative
of this expedition : " My Lord Clynton, h>e Admiral
of this flete, taking with him the galley (whearof one
Broke is Captain) and iiii. or v of our smaller ves-
sels besides, all well appointed with municion and
men, rowed up the frith a len myle westward, to a
haven town standyng on the south shore called
Blacknestes, whereat, towardes the water syde is a
castel of a pretty strength. As live whear unto as
the depth of the water thear woold suffer, the
Skots, for savegard, had laied ye Mary Willoughby,
and the Antony of Newcastel, ii tall ships, vvhiche
with extreme injury they had stollen from us before
tyme, whe no war between us; with these ley theur
also an oother large vessel called (by them) the
Bosse, and a vii mo, whearof part laden with mer-
chandize. My Lord Clynton, and his copenie, w'
K
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right hardy approehe, after a great conflicte betwixt
the eastel and our vessels, by fyne force, wan from
them those iii ships of name, and burnt all ye residue
before their faces as they ley." [Dalziel's ' Fragments
of Scottish History,' p. 80.] Under the reign of
Charles II., Blackness was one of the king's castles,
and the Earl of Livingston was hereditary constable.
In the course of the 16th century Borrowstounness,
being nearer to Linlithgow, and possessing some
other advantages of situation, rose to a rivalship
with Blackness; and in 1680, it succeeded, notwith.
standing the opposition of the latter place, in being
declared a port lor entry. Blackness thereupon sunk
gradually into total insignificance, and scarcely any
vestiges of the town now remain. The castle, how-
ever, is still kept up, in conformity to an article in
the treaty of Union. It was usually garrisoned by a
governor, lieutenant-governor, 2 gunners, 1 Serjeant,
2 corporals, and 14 or 15 privates.
BLACKSHIELS, a small village, 15 miles south-
east of Edinburgh, on the road to Kelso. The next
stage southwards from this leads across Soutra hill.
BLACKSIDE-END, a mountain on the north-
east boundary of the parish of Lorn in Ayrshire,
having an altitude of above 1,500 feet, and com-
manding a splendid view, embracing parts, it is said,
of no fewer than sixteen different counties. A few
years ago, a curious phenomenon was observed near
this hill after a thunder-storm which occurred about
the middle of March. Near the base of the hill,
something like an open quarry, which had not been
perceptible on the preceding day, attracted the at-
tention of people in the neighbourhood, and on going
to the spot they found, to their astonishment, an ex-
cavation in the ground 60 feet long, 40 broad, and
16 in depth. The earth scooped out was not scat-
tered round the pit, but thrown down at one place
at 120 feet distance from the hole or cavity; and
part remained in lumps of from 3 to 6 feet square,
with many stones of some hundred weight. The
earth on the sides and bottom of the pit remained
linn and solid, without rent or aperture. The soil
was what is called hill-moss or black earth, a few
inches in thickness; and under the moss was hard
till, some of it of a red colour, and part of it blue,
without any appearance of rock of any kind. The
preceding day had been stormy, with flashes of
lightning, and that this excavation was effected by
the invisible but irresistible element can scarcely ad-
mit of doubt.
BLADENOCH (The), a river in Galloway. It
rises in the hills which divide Galloway from Car-
rick, and, after a winding course of 24 miles, empties
itself into the bay of Wigton. Several islands, once
famous for the resort of eagles, are formed in its bed.
Good salmon are found in this stream.
BLADENOCH, a village in the parish of Wigton,
Wigtonshire; about a mile south-west of the town
of Wigton, within the parliamentary boundaries of
which it is included. There is a large distillery here.
BLAIR-ATHOLE, an extensive parish in the
district of Athole, in Perthshire, comprising the
united parishes of Blair- Athole and Strowan, which
anciently comprehended the parishes of Blair- Athole,
Strowan, Lude, and Kilmaveonaig.* These united
parishes extend upwards of 30 miles in length; and
* Blair, or blar, properly signifies ' a Plain clear of woods ;'
hut tlie Oltae, of whom the G*el were a branch, in general
choosing such plains lor their fields of hattle, blur mine at
length to tignity a battle. Stfbioan, or stratliuint signifies
■ streams;' and the district is so called from tile confluence of
the (iarry and the Ernchty at that place. Kilmaveuiutig, signifies
•III.* I 'I :i <■.. rtf * .■ , . r . 1. i , . ' art* fc * I. . i V ■ , •- , ■. I . . t -, . . , ..f Wt Li^iiniLitf'f /i«
.-- - j uiiu tut mi uviivj ni i i l ,i ' |''i''. jliikiimiu'iii'^ j ni^iiiut-n
the Place of worship,' or 'the Burial placn of M. Konog,' or
or Veouaig. Lurle, or Le'oid, seems to signify De-
Veouog, or *eoiiHig. i.une, or ±.c uiu, seems to sigimy l
clivities where a plough can bring a furrow only oi.e way
Old Statistical Account
allowing for the ascents and descents of the hills, 19
in breadth. Their superficial area has been estimated
at 312 square miles. They are bounded on the north
by Inverness-shire ; on the north-east by Aberdeen-
shire ; on the east by Kirkmichael and Moulin
parishes ; on the south by Dull parish ; and on the
west by Rannoch. An extensive well-cultivated
strath or valley lies along the Garry, from the kirk.
town of Strowan, for 6 miles downwards ; and
Strath-Tummel runs along the loch of that name,
which is about 2 miles long. Between these two
straths is a stretch of moorland about 4 miles in
breadth. The rest of the parish consists of small
straths or glens along the rivulets which descend
from the mountains, of naked rocks, and extensive
moor clad hills. On the summits of the higher
mountains, the weather has left little else than
gravel and stones covered with moss. Farther down
we find heath, uva ursi, and the crawberry plant ; on
boggy places, the cloudberry, and on drier ground,
the whortleberry with coarse grass. Still lower
down, amidst heath and peat-bog, occur small valleys
with pretty good pasture, and here and there a green
spot, with huts to which the women, children, and
herds, retire with the cattle for the summer-season.
The vestiges of the plough are often seen here much
higher up than it goes at present ; probably because
wood then clothed the higher places, and much of
the bottom was a thicket. Every glen and valley is
intersected by its own river, or stream ; and in some
of them there occurs a loch. The most remarkable
mountain is Beinndeirg, or Bendeai'g, i. e. ' the
Red mountain,' so called from a vein of red stone,
said to be a kind of granite, which intersects it. It
rises 3,550 feet above the level of the sea; but is
exceeded by Bengloe, or Benygloe, the highest pin-
nacle of which, Carn-nan-gour, or Carn-nan-Gabhar,
i. e. 'the Mountain of goats,' rises 3,725 feet above
sea-level. The other summits of this mountain are
Cam Liath, Cam Torkie, and Airgiodbheann. There
are several lochs, and two considerable rivers, the
Ttimmel and the Garry, in this pariah. See articles
Tummei, and Garry. The principal streams are
the Erochty or Erickhie, the Bruar, and the Tilt,
which are all tributaries of the Garry. See articles
Bruar and Tilt. The Dukes of Athol, and Ro-
bertson of Lude, have planted a greal deal in this
parish. The prevailing kinds of timber are birch,
alder, ash, oak, poplar, and hazle ; the shrubs are
willow, broom, bog-gall, heath, &c The village of
Blair-Athole is situated on the road from Edinburgh
to Fort Augustus. A fair is held at Blair-Athole
on the 2d of February, and for cattle and horses on
the 3d Wednesday iii May. Bridge-of-Tilt cattle
fairs are held on the 25th of June, and 20lh of Au-
gust, O. S In 1792, it was conjectured that ot
about 130,000 Scots acres, the supposed superficial
area of this parish, not above 4,000 were under
tillage. The valued rent is £4,204 18s. 8d. Scots.
This sum bears a very small proportion to the real
rent, which, in the New Statistical Account, it is
conjectured mav amount to £14,000. Population,
in 1801; 2,848 fin 1831, 2,384. Assessed property,
in 1815, ±"3,270. Houses, in 1831,520.— This parish
is in the presbytery of Dunkeld, and synod of Perth
and Stirling. Patron, the Duke of Athole. Minis-
ter's stipend £143 19s. 4d., with three glebes of the
annual value of £95 10s. Unappropriated teinds
£443 Os. 5d. There are two parish-churches, one at
Blair, and one at Strowan, about 5 miles distant
from each other. The church of Blair was built in
1825, and seats 650; that at Strowan, in 1828, and
seats 460. A portion of the eastern extremity of
the parish, with a population of about 200, has re-
cently been annexed quoad sacra to the new church.
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»nd parish of Teknandri : which see. , There is an
Episcopalian congregation at Kilmaveonaig, which
has existed there about 150 years. Chapel built in
1791 ; seats 200. Stipend about, £78 10s.— A, Bap-
tist congregation was also established at Kilmave-
onaig in 1821,. — The parochial schoolmaster has a
salary of £34 4s. 4d., with about £14 fees; pupils
50. There were seven private schools within the
parish in 1834, attended by about "200 children. — On
the east bank of the Tilt, south-east of Athole-house,
is, Clagh-gbil-Aindreas, or ' the cemetery of Andrew's
disciple.' The Tilt has left only a small portion of this
burying-place. The coffins which are found in it are
usually composed of live nag-stones. — -On the north
side of Beinnglo, is Lochaiun, i. e. 'the River that
is slow like a loch.' It runs from Lochloch, towards
the Tilt. Upon Lochaiun are the vestiges of a
palace in which the Earl of Athole entertained James
V., his mother, and the French ambassador, in.at
most sumptuous manner; and, which was burnt to
the ground, as soon as the king left it.— To the east
of Athole-bouse there is a deep pool, vyith a rock
in it, whence adulteresses were of old thrown, sewed
up in a sack, and drowned. — -Blair castle, or Athole
house, seated on an eminence rising from a. plain
watered by the Garry, is of uncertain antiquity.
The oldest part is called Cummin's tower, being
supposed to have been built by John,, commonly
called De Strathbogy, who enjoyed the title of Athole
in right of bis wife. It became the principal seat of
his successors. In 1(344 the Marquis of Montrose
possessed himself of it, and was here joined by a
large body of the Athole highlanders, to whose
bravery he was indebted for the victory at Tibbir-
moor. In the troubles of 1653, this place was taken
by storm by Colonel Daniel, an officer of Cromwell,
who, unable to remove a magazine of provision lodged
there, destroyed it by powder. In 1639, it occasion-
ed the celebrated battle of Killicrankie. An officer
belonging to Viscount Dundee had flung himself into
it, and refusing to deliver it to Lord Murray, son to
the Marquis of Athole, was by him threatened with
a siege. His lordship, to effect the reduction, as-
sembled a body of forces and marched towards the
place. Dundee knew the importance of preserving
this pass, and his communications with the Highland
clans in whom he had the greatest confidence.
With his usual expedition he joined the garrison ;
and, in a few days, after concluded his life with the
well-known defeat of the royal forces under Mackay,
at Killicrankie. The last siege it experienced was
in March, 1746, when it was gallantly defended by
Sir Andrew Agnew against the rebels, who retired
from before it a few weeks preceding the battle of
Culloden. The reader will find some curious de-
tails of this siege in the ' Scots Magazine' for 1808.
As soon as peace was established, a considerable
part of the fortress was reduced in height, and the
inside most magnificently furnished. " The views
in front of the house," says Pennant — who visited
this place in 1772 — "are planted with so much form,
as to be far from pleasing, but the picturesque walks
among the rocks on the other side cannot lad to at-
tract tile admiration of every traveller of taste. The
late noble owner* with great judgment, but with no
less difficulty, cut, or rather blasted our, walks along
the vast rocks and precipices that bound the rivers
Banovy and Tilt. The waters are violent, and
form in various places cascades of great beauty.
Pines and trees of seveial species wave solemnly
over the head, and darken the romantic scene. The
place appeared to great advantage : for the High-
lands, as well as other beauties, nave their good and
their bad days. The glen, that in 1769 1 thought
deficient in Hater, now by reason of the rains, looked
to great advantage, and finished finely the rich
scenerv of rock and wood."
BLAIR-DRUMMOND, an estate in the parish of
Kincardine, in the Menteith district of Perthshire,
chiefly celebrated for its extensive moss, and the suc-
cessful efforts which, have been made to reclaim it.
This moss is a portion ofthe tract of land known as
the mosses of Kincardine and Flanders, which covered
above 3,000 acres to the depth of from 3 to 14 feet.
Lord Karnes — into whose possession the estate of
Blair -Druminondcame in 1767— r-commenced clearing
that part of his estate which lay in the moss; and
with this view invited anumber of poor families from
Balquhidder to settle on the waste. Hitherto drain-
ing, trenching, burning, and other methods had failed;
but the idea which presented itself to his lordship s
mind was. that of sweeping away the superincumbent
stratum of. moss, after being loosened and divided
into small portions, by means of water,. The reader
will find, an account of this successful effort, in a
pamphlet of which the 3d edition was published at
Edinburgh in 1793, entitled 'An Account of the
Improvements of Moss, ccc, ina Letter to a Friend ;'
also in an article in the 3d vol. of the ' Edinburgh
Philosophical Transactions.' Two wooden wheels
of curious and ancient construction were found
in this moss, at the depth of 9 feet,i a few years
ago. They , were wholly of, wood, not even a nail or
any thing, of iron being ,to be fbrind about them.
They consisted of three planks joined together by
two oval pieces of oak passing through the centre
like bolts ; and measured 3. feet in, diameter, by 2k
inches thick. The centre, or nave, was 6 inches
thick, apparently turned out of one solid piece, and
bushed with the red wood of oak. The bushing was
composed of small staves set in, like cooper-work,
as exemplified in the form of the Scottish bicker.
Both wheels were discovered ina horizontal position,
and a layer of fir-trees. and brush-wood was imbedded
in the moss about a foot above them; which seems
to prow that in whatever manner the wheels got
there, they were at least of as ancient, a date as the
moss itself.
BLAIR-GOWRIE,* a parish in Perthshire of
considerable extent, but irregular figure, being about
11. miles long from south to north, and, in some
places, not less than 8 miles broad; but intersected
by the parishes of Kinloch, Bendoehy, and Rattray.
The connected part of it is only about 9 miles long,
and from 1 to 2 broad. The parish is divided into
two districts by a branch of the Grampian mountains
forming a part ofthe northern boundary of the beau-
tiful valley of Strathmoie. The southern district,
which lies in, this strath, is about 4 miles long, and
from 1 to 2 broad. The iioitheru district— which
includes the detached parts of the parish — -is high
ground, and very uneven in the surface. The hills
are mostly covered with heath, and some of them
may be about 600 feet above sea-level. Not above
a third part of the parish consists of arable ground.
The Isla, which skirts the northern part of the
parish, is the most considerable river. As its banks
are here low, it often suddenly overflows them, and
occasions considerable loss to the husbandman. This
was remarkably the case in the harvest of 1789. —
The next river in size is the Ericht, which, from its
• The name of the parish is derived from the village near
which the church stands. In old papers it is sometimes written
Bhiir-hi-Qowrie. Various etymologies and interpretations of
it nave been suggested. Like many other names of places iu
tile parish, it is probably Gaelic. In tnat language Jilaar is
said to be descriptive of a place where muir and moss abouud.
Tims Ardbiuir is ' the Height an the nmir.' The muir of Blair-
Gowrie is in the near neighbourhood of the village. The iVal.
town of Blair, the Lochend ofBltiir, Little Blair, and Ardblair,
are names oi places oh the borders ul the luulr. — Old Statistical
j Auud't/it.
BLA
148
BLA
rapidity, has acquired the appellation of " the Ireful
Erieht." It is formed by the junction of the Anile
and the Black- Water ; and runs along the east side
of the parish for about 9 miles. Its channel in general
is rocky and uneven, and it often varies in its depth
and breadth. In some places the banks are so low
that it frequently overflows them ; in other parts
they rise to a great height, and are often covered
with wood. About 2 miles north of the village of
Blair-Gowrie, they rise at least 200 feet above the
bed of the river ; and on the west side are formed,
for about 700 feet in length, and 220 feet in height,
of perpendicular rock as smooth as if formed by the
tool of the workman. This place is called Craig-
lioch. Two miles farther down is the Keith, a
natural cascade considerably improved by art, and so
constructed that the salmon — which repair in great
numbers to it — cannot get over it unless when the
river is very much swollen.* The parish abounds
with lakes of different sizes, several of which have
been drained, and now supply the neighbourhood
with peats and marl. In those which still exist,
pike and perch are caught. They are also frequented
by wild fowls of different kinds. There is one
chalybeate spring in the Cloves of Mawes, which
was formerly much resorted to by persons in its
neighbourhood, for scorbutic disorders. In 1774, the
inuir of Blair-Gowrie — then a common of 500 acres
— was divided, and most of it, in 1775, was planted
with Scotch firs ; the rest of it has been gradually
planted since that time, partly with larch, and partly
with Scotch firs. The principal branches of manu-
facture carried on in this parish are spinning and
weaving. The yarn is either wove in the neigh-
bourhood, or sent to Dundee. Considerable quanti-
ties of household-cloth are woven here; in 1796, about
50,000 yards of yard-wides were made here, part of
which was bleached in the neighbouring parish of
Rattray ; but a greater proportion, sold in the village
of Blair-Gowrie, and sent green to London. Popu-
lation, in 1801, 1,914; in 1831, 2,644. Assessed
property, in 1815, £6,206. Houses, in 1831, 448
This parish is in the presbytery of Meigle, and synod
of Angus and Mearns. Patrons, M'Pherson of
Blairgowrie, and Oliphant of Gask. Minister's sti-
pend .£222 13s., with a glebe of the value of .£20.
Church built in 1824; sittings 850. — An Indepen-
dent congregation was formed here in 1802. Chapel
built in 1824; sittings 350. — An Original Burgher
congregation exists here, and a small Roman Catholic
congregation. According to a survey made in 1836,
there appeared to be 2,419 persons in this parish
connected with the established church, and 578 with
other denominations. — -The village of Blair-Gowrie
is pleasantly situated on the north side of Strathmore,
close upon the river Erieht. It was made a borough
of barony, by charter from Charles I., in 1634. The
situation of the village is very healthy, and it is well-
supplied with water. There are fairs held in it on
the 3d Wednesday in March, for hoises and cattle;
on the 26th of May, if a Wednesday, or the 1st
Wednesday thereafter, for cattle; on the 2d Wednes-
day in August; on the Wednesday before Falkirk
* The manner of fishing here is probably peculiar to this
place. The fishers, during the day, dig considerable quantities
of clay, and wheel it to the river-aide immediately aoove the
fall. About sun-set the clay is converted into mortar, and
hurled into the water. The fishers then ply their nets at differ-
ent stations below, while the water continues muddy. This is
repeated two or three times in the space of a lew hours. It is
a kind of pot-net, fastened to a lo'ng pole, tliat is Used here.
From the Keith, for about 2 miles down the river, there is the
bi'st rod-fishing to be found in Scotland, especially for salmon.
The fishing with the pot-net is -lonliued to a small part of the
river near the Keith. When the water is very small — which
id otten the case in summer — the fish are caught in great num-
bers, m the different pools, with a common net.— Old Statistical
Account*
tryst in October ; and on the 1st Wednesday in No-
vember. The Bank of Scotland, and the Commer-
cial bank of Scotland, have branches here. The
population, in 1836, was 1,8.34. The great road,
from Cupar-Angus to Fort-George, passes through
this parish. The great road from Dunkeld to Kir-
riemuir also passes through the parish, and cuts the
military road at right angles Newton-House, once
the seat of the proprietors of the barony of Blair-
Gowrie, is an old building, something in the style of
a castle. This house was rebuilt on the foundation
of the old house said to have been burnt down by
Oliver Ctomwell. Several gentlemen were miracu-
lously saved in a vault of the old house, while it
was burnt down. It stands about the middle of the
south slope of the range of high ground which bounds
Strathmore on the north, and has a most command-
ing view, not only of Strathmore, but also of parts
of different counties. — About half-a-mile farther
west, lies the mansion-house of the old family of
the Blairs of Ardblair. The mansion-bouse seems
evidently to have been surtounded with water on
three sides.
BL A1RINGONE, i. e. ' The Field of Spears,' a
village in the shire of Perth, parish of Fossaway ;
10 miles north-west of Dunfermline, and 7 west of
Kinross. It is a burgh of barony, under the su-
periority of the Duke of Atbole. A market is holdeu
here in the month of June. It probably derives
its name from weapon-shawings having been held
here ; for the chieftain of the Murrays had a family-
seat at this place; and the rocky pinnacle, now
called Gibson's craig, is said to be the real Gart-
whinzian, where the whole clan of the Murrays as-
sembled to attend their chief.
BLAIR-LOG1E, a village in the parish of Logie,
Stirlingshire, at the entrance of Glen Devon. Veins
of copper and barytes exist here. The copper was
wrought several centuries ago; and the ore raisetl,
it is said, was carried into England to be smelted.
BLANE (The), a small stream in the county of
Stirling, whence the parish of Strathblane takes its
name. It has its source in the Earl's seat, one of
the Lennox hills ; and, after running 3 or 4 miles to
the south-west, is precipitated over several high falls,
into a romantic hollow, which is filled with a vast
assemblage of gigantic stones piled upon each other,
and adorned, on the sides, with many alternate strata
of various hues. " The stream has already formed
two smaller cascades in sight, before it precipitates
itself over a shelf 30 feet high, and descends among
the rocky masses which it has loosened from the
parent-hill. The lowest of the three falls is known
as 'the Spout of Ballaggan.' The earls of the old
race of Levenax had a castle near and in sight of
this romantic scene. Ballaggan, the seat of Alex-
ander Graham, Esq. of Ballaggan, commands a vie.v
of this beautiful and sublime cataract from the win-
dows, and is within hearing of its music even when
it has not the means of striking a loud note. In
flood-time the Spout is stupendous, increasing its
apparent height by covering the huge masses below
so as to vie with the sublimity if not the beauty of
Corra-Lin. In drier periods, the visitant can ascend,
with more seeming than real hazard, amongst the
scattered fragments of rock, till he have readied the
bottom of the lowest fall." [Additions to Niiumo's
History of Stirlingshire. Edn. 1817, pp. 646, U47-]
After a course of 8 miles farther towards the north-
west, the Blane joins the Eudtick a little above
where it falls into Loch Lomond. Several specimens
of antimony have been found in its bed; but the mine
from which they have been washed is not yet dis-
covered. The boyhood of George Buchanan was
spent in the neighbourhood of this stream.
BLA
149
BLA
BLANE'S (ST.) CHAPEL, a small ruin in the
southern extremity of the isle of Bute, in the parish
of Kingarth. This edifice is said to have been reared
by the piety of St. Blane or Blain, of whom tradilion
arid Catholic legends report as follows: St, Cathan,
an Irish bishop, attended by his sister, Ertha, came
from his own country to the isle of Bute, with the
intention of leading the solitary life of an hermit in
some chosen retirement. Ertha wandering about
unprotected, was accidentally met in the field by a
young man, apparently of superior station, and pos-
sessed of many personal attractions, who, becoming
suddenly enamoured of the lady, forced her to sub-
mit to his embraces. Ertha, in due course of time,
found herself pregnant, and brought forth a son.
Some barbarous persons into whose hands she had
fallen, as a punishment for her involuntary crime,
thrust her with her little infant into a boat and com-
mitted them to the mercy of a tempestuous sea.
After she had struggled long with the horrors of her
situation, Providence intervened ; and the boat was
driven to shore. Congal and Kenneth, two holy
men, walking on the sands, saw what had happened;
and, having learned of Ertha the cause of her mis-
fortunes, took compassion upon her, and received
both the mother and the son into their immediate
protection. They baptized the child, and gave him
the name of Blane. He was educated under their
care and direction; and, becoming an adept in theo-
logy, was sent to Rome, where he took holy orders.
Alter some years, his learning and piety recom-
mended him so strongly to the Pope that he was
consecrated a bishop; and returning to his own coun-
try, presided over a city in Scotland, ever since then
called Dunblane. Deeply impressed with the his-
tory which his mother had given him of his provi-
dential escape in infancy, he built the old chuich of
Kingarth, as a votive memorial of his gratitude, upon
his return from Rome. The situation, which he
chose for it is deeply retired, and probably, at the
time of its foundation was sequestered in a wood.
That no circumstance of sanctity might be wanting
to his pious work, he brought a quantity of conse-
crated earth from Rome, to form the upper stratum
of the burving-ground. It happened that some of
the women on the coast either refused to assist in
conveying the precious mould from the ship, or pro-
fanely negligent let some of it fall by the way, St.
Blane therefore decreed that none of the sex should
ever be interred within the holy cemetery. But an-
other piece of ground, called the lower church-yard,
was destined for that purpose; and, according to the
saint's decree, was exclusively used for the inter-
ment of the females; it being then firmly believed,
that, had their bodies been laid in the hallowed earth
of Rome,
Their bone% though canonized and hearsed in death,
Had burst their cerements — that the sepulchre
Had ope'd his ponderous and warble jaws
To cast them up again.*
This superstition continued in force till 1601 ; when
the presbytery going their progress of the parochial
bounds, a complaint was made against this practice of
the separate burial of the sexes. The Assembly con.
sented to its abolition ; and, from that time, women as
well as men have safely, though promiscuously, been
deposited in the favoured cemetery. Wives have
not only been quietly inurned in the neighbourhood
of their husbands; but have continued quiet ever
since in the same company. — Not far from St. Blane's
church is still shown the Devil's cauldron, which
• "The Saint's order," says Mr. Blain, "was carefully ob-
served, the people entertaining a belief, that should ihey trans-
gress, and inter the dead bodies of leinales, contrary to his
injunctions, such bodies would be cast above the earth.'"
though vulgar tales formerly current of the evil
spirit's purgatorial parboiling of the bodies and souls
of departed sinners are too gross for notice — is known
to have been, in Catholic times, a place of real pen-
ance for living ones. " This cauldron," says Mr.
Blain, "30 feet in diameter, is formed by a wall of
drv stone, 7 feet, 6 inches high, and 10 feet in thick-
ness, with an entrance from the east. It was a [dace
of penance, as its name imports, such as Sir James
Ware describes in his antiquities of Ireland. Poor
culprits were sometimes obliged to traverse the top
of the wall on their bare knees, a certain number of
times, according to their demerit; whilst their path
was covered over with sharp stones. At other
times, a number of these unhappy people were made
to sit, days and nights together, on the floor, within
the inclosure, without food, and necessitated to pre-
vent each other from enjoying the comforts of sleep:
for it was inculcated on them by their ghostly
fathers, as an article of belief, that, if they suffered
any of the company to slumber, before the time ap-
pointed for expiating their guilt was at an end, the
whole virtue of their penance would be lost."
BLANTYRE, a parish, formerly a vicarage, in
the county of Lanark; bounded on the north by the
Clyde, which divides it from Bothwell; on the east
by Hamilton; on the south by Glasford and Kil-
bride; and on the west by Cambuslang. It is about
6 miles in length, and, on an average, one in breadth.
Its superficial area is about 3,300 Scots acres; rental
.£2,579. Next to the Clyde, the Calder is the prin-
cipal river in this parish, which it bounds on the
west. The whole parish forms almost a continuous
plain. The soil is various; hut, though part is clay,
loam, and sand, the whole is very fertile, except
towards the southern extremity where it becomes a
deep peat moss. There are very extensive cotton
spinning and cotton-dyeing works here, founded by
Mr. David Dale in 1785, and now the property of
Henry Mouteith & Co., which give employment to
a number of people. In 1838, 839 hands were em-
ployed in 2 cotton mills here; in 1791, 36S hands
were employed. Ironstone, of excellent quality, is
now wrought to great advantage within the parish.
Limestone is also wrought at Auchentiber and
Calderside. There is a mineral spring at Park,
strongly impregnated with sulphur dissolved by
means of hydrogen gas, which used to be much re-
sorted to, about the middle of last century, by fami-
lies from Glasgow, and is still famed in scrofulous
and scorbutic cases. Population in 1801, 1,751 ; in
1831, 3,000. Assessed property in 1815, £4,43S.
Houses in 1831, 248. — This parish is in the presby-
tery of Hamilton, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr.
Patron, Lord Blantvre. Stipend £196 10s. with a
glebe of the value of £16. Church built in 1793;
sittings 841. There is a chapel at Blantvre works,
built by the proprietors of the works at their own
expense, for the accommodation of their working-
people. Sittings 392. The preacher receives £50
from the proprietors, and £50 from the seat-rents.
The chapel is under a committee of management,
one-half of whom are churchmen, and one-half dis-
senters. The parish minister reported that about
2,053 of the population in 1<S31 were in connexion
with the Established church, and about 812 were
dissenters. — The parochial schoolmaster has a salaiy
of £26 with £19 fees; average number of scholars
45. There are four private schools attended by
above 200 children ; the largest of these is in con-
nexion with the Blantyre works. — The ruins of the
priory of Blantvre, which was founded some time
prior to the year 1296, are finely situated, in a most
retired situation, on the top of a rock which rises
perpendicularly from the Clyde, exactly opposite the
BOD
150
BOL
noble ruins of BothweU castle, and commands, a very
romantic vievv. Walter Stew'art, first cpmmeuda-
tor of this pripfy, and Lord-privy-se.al in 1595, was
made a peer by the title of Lord Blantyre, July 10th,
1606. The revenues of the priory were, in 1561,
money £131 Cs. 7^d. Hamilton of Wishaw says
in his ' Descriptions' compiled about the beginning
of last century, " the Lord Blantyre helh a'ne fruit-
ful orchard at the old priorie, where he is some
tvmes in use to dwell." There are yet a few relics
of this orchard here; but from the state of the build-
ings it could scarcely have been supposed that they
were in a habitable state at any period within the
18th century. See article Botuwell. Urns have
been dug up at different times in several parts of
the parish -Blantyre village in the above parish,
is about 8 miles south-east of Glasgow, and 3
west of Hamilton. It is inhabited chiefly by people
employed at the cotton works, and contained in
1835, 1,821 inhabitants. The Clyde at the ferry
here is 79 yards broad.
BODDOM, a village on the sea-coast pf Buchan,
near Peterhead, inhabited chiefly by fishers. A
small harbour has recently been formed here close
to the Boddom-head — or Buchanness as it. i s more
frequently called — for the accommodation, of those
engaged in the herring-fisherv.
BODOTRIA, the name given in ancient geogra-
phv to the frith of Forth.
BOGHALL. See Biggae.
BOGIE (The). See Auchindoir.
BOG-OF-GlGHT, or BoGEN-GicnT. the an-
cient designation of the seat of the Dukes of Gordon,
in the parish of Bellie, now call, d Gordon castle:
which see. Shaw aiid others derive the name from
JBvy-na-Gaoith, that is, ' the Windy bog.' Richard
Franck, who made a journey through. Scotland in
1658, describes "Bpgageith, the marquess of Huntly's
palace all built with stone facing the ocean ; whose
fair front — set prejudice aside— .worthily deserves
an Englishman's applause for her lofty and majestic
rivers ami turrets that storm the air, and seemingly
make dints in the very clouds!" Tlie ferry, or more
strictly speaking ferry-boat, across the Spey near
this mansion, for ages know n as " the Boat of Bog,"
has been supplanted by a magnificent stone bridge
of four arches, said to have cost £13,000.
BOHARM, a parish in the shires of Banff and
Moray, anciently called Bochnrin, that is, ' the Bo.v
about the Cairn,' which is sufficiently descriptive of
its situation, the parish surrounding on three sides
the mountain Beueageeu or Benegin. Its outline is
irregular; but its average length from east to west
is 9 miles, and average breadth from 2 to 3. It
is bounded by Moray on the north ; Botriphnie par-
ish on the east; Mortlach and Aberlour on the
south; and the Spey on the west. The Fiddieh
separates it from Aberlour parish on the south-west.
Population in 1801, 1,101; in 1S31, 1,385, pf whom
758 were in that portion of the parish belonging to
Banffshire. Houses, in 1831, in Banffshire, 141 l in
Moray 152. Assessed property in Banffshire, in
1815, £2,014; in Moray, £1,517; valued rent
£2,840 This parish, formerly a rectory, with the
ancient rectory of Ardintullie annexed, is in the
presbytery of Aberlour, and synod of Moray. Pa-
trons, the Crown, and the Ear] of Fife. Stipend
£244 16s. 7d., with a glebe of the value of £22 10s.
By decreet of the court of teinds, in June 1782, a
part of Dundurcus parish was united to it. Churph
built in 1795; sittings 575. Schoolmaster's salary
£34 4s. 5£d., with £15 fees, and a share of Dick's
bequest. Scholars 50. There are three private
schools attended by about 60 children in all. — The
ruin of the castle of Gallvull is the only relic of an-
tiquity in the parish. It was built fronting the east,
on the north side of the valley towards the western
end of the parish, where a promontory is pushed
forward into the deep defile formed by the course of
the Aldermy. It appears to have been a simple
structure of 119 by 24 feet within, divided by an
internal wall so as to form two halls on the ground-
floor, one 65, and the other 54 feet in length. The
windows were only 20 inches wide, though the wal]9
were S feet thick, built up in frames of timber which
were employed for keeping in the fluid mortar which
was poured into the dry stone- wall when raised to a
certain height. The front and corners were finished
with free-stone from the quarries of Duffus. About
a century ago several silver spoons were found
among the rubbish, having the handle round and
hollow like a pipe, and the concave part, or mouth,
perfectly circular. This bulky fabric, in 1200, was
denominated Castellum de Bucharin. It then be-
longed to the Freskyns of Duffus, by whom it was
no doubt built. By assuming the title De Moravia,
from their connection with that country, they be-
came the author of that surname. They were once
possessed of many fair domains in the north : namely,
Duffus, Duldavie, Dalvey, Inverallen, and Kirkdales,
in Moray ; Airndilly, Aikenwall, Boharm, Botriph-
nie then Botruthin, Kinermonie then Cere Kainer-
month, in Banffshire; and Brachlie, Crov, Euan,
Lunyn, and Petty, in Nairn or Inverness, as appears
by the charter of Moray from 1100 to 1286. At
this day, they are represented by the Duke of
Athole, Sutherland of Duffus, and Murray of Aber-
cairriy. It also appears by the charter of Moray
that, between 1203 and 1222, William, the son of
William Freskyn, obtained the consent of Hi' dpi us',
bishop of Moray, for building a domestic chapel for
the more commodious performance of the offices of
devotion. It stood on its own consecrated burying-
ground — forsaken only in the course of the last cen-
tury— about 50 yards from the north end of the
castle; and, though only 24 by 12 feet within, must
have been the parent of the parish-church, which,
with several others, was erected at the private ex-
pense of James VI. for civilizing the north of Scot-
land, in the year 1618, at which period Ardintullie
or Airndilly may be supposed to have been annexed.
On the annexation of a part of the parish ot Dun-
durcus, a new parish-church was erected about 2
miles to the eastward James Ferguson, the self-
taught astronomer, received the rudiments of his
education here, under the patronage of Grant of
AirndilU;
BOINDIE. See Boyndie.
BOISDALE (Loch), a deep inlet of the Minch,
on the eastern side of South Uist, and to the south
of Loch Eynort. It is thickly strewn with islets,
and has a small half-ruined tower at its entrance.
BOLESKINE and Abertarff, two united par-
ishes in the county of Inverness. They extend in
length aboiit 21, and in average breadth about 10
miles, on the south side of Loch Ness. The united
parish is bounded on the north by Urquhart; on the
north-east by Dores ; on the east by Daviot; on
the south by Laggan ; and on the south-west by
Kilmanivaig. There are one or two small detached
portions of the par.sh. The district at the western
extremity of Lochuess is level; the eastern is moun-
tainous. The soil is as varied as the surface.
There are a great many sheep fed in the hilly part
of the country. Much natural wood still remains;
and, from the large trunks of oak-trees found in all
the mosses, we may conclude the whole country has
at one period been an extensive oak-forest. Fokt-
Augustus, the centre of communication betwixt
the east and west coasts of the kingdom, is in this
BOL
151
BON
district : see that article. The celebrated Fall of
Foyers, near the seat of Frazer of Foyers, will be
described in a distinct article. The parish abounds
with lakes, which contain a variety of fish ; several
streams also intersect it, of which the principal are
the Oieh, and the Tarff. Loch Ness forms a sepa-
rate article in this work. The Caledonian canal
runs through this parish, and the old militarv road.
Granite of beautiful appearance is found in the hills;
and inexhaustible quarries of limestone are wrought
in several parts. There are two small villages in
this district, Cillchuiman and Balfrishel. The po-
pulation of the former, including the garrison of
Fort- Augustus, was 216 in 1831 ; of the latter, 159.
Population of the parish in 1801, 1,799; in 1831,
1,829. Assessed property, in 1815, £4,756. The
average gross amount of raw produce raised within
the parish is estimated in the New Statistical ac-
count, published in May 1835, at .£4,313. Houses,
in 1831, 360. This parish is in the presbytery of
Abertarff and synod of Glenelg. Patron, Fraser of
Lovat. Stipend, £23S 2s. 2d. There are two
churches, — one the parish-church of Boleskine, built
in 1777; and the other at Fort-Augustus, 11 miles
distant, where a missionary officiates. The mission
district comprehends the whole original parish of
Abertarff, comprising a population of 1,201, of whom
872 were in connexion with the Establishment, and
329 were dissenters, chiefly Roman Catholics, of
whom there is a small congregation here. The mis-
sionary has a house in the fort, and a salary of
about £80. The Catholic clergyman has about
£30. Parochial schoolmaster's salary £30, with
about £20 fees.
BOLFRACKS. See Fortingal.
BOLTON, a small parish in the shire of Had-
dington. It is very irregular in its boundaries and
dimensions; extending from north-east to south-
west, nearly 6 miles ; and in breadth, at a medium,
not above 1^ mile. It is bounded by Haddington
parish on the north ; on the east by that beautiful little
bi anch of the T\ ne called the Gifford or Coalstone
water, running north-west from Yester, and which
separates it from Haddington parish ; on the south
by Yester or Gifford parish ; on the west by Humbie
and Salton. The Boins water, one of the head-
streams of the Tyne, descending from the northern
skirts of West hill in the Lammermoor chain, se-
parates Bolton from Humbie parish. The valued
rent of the parish is £2,437 12s. 7d. Scots; the
real rent, in 1792, was about £1,400. It is now
nearly double that sum. Assessed property, in 1815,
£2,274. The number of acres is about 2,400, of
which there are about 300 planted ; most of the
grounds are enclosed with stripes of planting. Po-
pulation, in 1801, 252; in 1831, 332. Houses, in
1831, 63. This parish is in the presbytery of Had-
dington, and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale.
Patron, Lord Blantyre. Stipend £153 15s. 5d.,
with a glebe of the value of £18. Schoolmaster's
salary £34, with £40 fees. Average number of
pupils 75. In the little village of Bolton there
were, till recently, some vestiges of a house, with
a park on the west side of it still called the orchard,
which is said to have belonged to John Hepburn, a
friend of Both well's, who fled with him from Dun-
bar, when Bothwell escaped from the battle of Fal-
side. Chalmers says : — " The manor of Bolton was
early enjoyed by the St. Hilaries, who were suc-
ceeded by William de Vetereponte, who married
Emma de St. Hilary. Notwithstanding the terrible
disasters of the succession war, in which, as we learn
from Rymer and Prynne, this family was involved,
yet was Bolton, with lands in other districts, en-
joyed by it under Robert I. and David II. In the
reign of James II. it belonged to George, Lord Hali-
burton of Dirleton. It was at length acquired by
Patrick Hepburn, Earl of Bothwell, after a long suit
in parliament with Marion, the lady of Bolton. In
1526 and 1543, Bolton was in possession of a cadet
of his family, by the name of Hepburn of Bolton.
In January 1568, John Hepburn of Bolton was exe-
cuted, as the associate of the Earl of Bothwell, his
chief, in the murder of Darnley. The manor of
Bolton, thus forfeited, was given to William Mait-
land, the well-known secretary Lethington. It was
confirmed to the Earl of Lauderdale in 1621.
Richard, Earl of Lauderdale, who died about the
year 1693, sold the barony of Bolton, and even the
ancient inheritance of Lethington, to Sir Thomas
Livingston, who was created Viscount Teviot, in
1696; and Sir Thomas transferred the whole to
Walter, Master of Blantyre, afterwards Lord Blan-
tyre, in 1702, in whose family the property remains."
BONA, in the shire of Inverness, formerly a rec-
tory, united to the ancient rectory of Inverness, and
now comprehended in that parish. The ruins of its
church still exist on the banks of Loch-Dochfour.
Service is reetllsirlv maintained in the school room
here by the Established ministers of Inverness. It
is 6 miles south-south-west of Inverness, at the
northern extremity of Loch-Ness, over which there
is a ferrv here. The population of the district, in
1831, was 1.363. On the east side of the Ness,
about 600 yards below its efflux from Loch-Ness,
and between it and Loch-Dochfour, there are the re-
mains of a Roman station, which, it is supposed, was
the site of the Banatia Urbs of Richard of Cirencester.
BON-ACCORD. See Aberdeen.
BONAR, in the shire of Sutherland, and parish
of Crieeh ; 12 miles west of Dornoch. The com-
missioners for Highland roads and bridges, in April,
1811, reported, that all the investigations of High-
land lines of road north of Inverness, had uniformly
designated the head of the Dornoeh-frith as a neces-
sary central point; and that the inconvenience and
danger experienced at the Meikle ferry, at the mouth
of the frith, and the circuitous rout by Portinlech, a
ferry at the head of the frith, rendered it' very desirable
to ascertain the most convenient place for crossing it
between these points. For this purpose, Crieeh and
Bonar appeared to possess nearly equal pretensions,
— the first being wider but nearer the coast, — the
other, narrower, but not affording so direct a road
towards the north east. In 1811, Mr. Telford re-
ported to the commissioners as follows : " Having
repeatedly examined this frith, I find that about 12
miles above Dornoch, at Bonar ferry, it is contract-
ed into the breadth of about 70 yards at low water
of a spring-tide ; at which time, 20 yards of that
breadth extending from the southern shore, is cover-
ed by water not more than 3 feet in depth ; and as
the spring-tides rise no more than 8 feet, I conceive
it is practicable to construct a bridge at this place
where the several roads, south and north of it, may
be made to centre without inconvenience. As con-
siderable quantities of ice float here in winter, and
the tides run with considerable velocity, it is ad-
visable to construct an iron bridge of one arch, 150
feet span, and 20 feet rise ; and by making the arch
to spring 3 feet above high water mark, no interrup-
tion can then take place. I accompany this with a
plan, in which I have endeavoured to improve the
principles of constructing iron bridges, and also their
external appearance ; the principal ribs have here
their parts all of equal dimensions, which, by cool-
ing equally, will avoid delects hitherto experienced
in structures of this sort ; the road-way, instead of
being supported by circles or perpendicular pillars as
formerly, is sustained by lozenge forms, which pre-
BON
152
BON
serve straight lines, and keep the points of pressure in
the direction of the radii • the covering plates, in-
stead of being solid as formerly, are to be made re-
ticulated, something in the way of malt-kiln tiles,
which enables them to be made thicker, and yet so
as to save a very considerable portion of iron, and
consequently weight." Mr. Telford's plan was car-
ried into execution in 1812. The bridge consists of
an iron arch of 150 feet span, and "2 stone arches of
60 and 50 feet respectively, presenting a water-way
of 260 feet. In the year 1814, the iron arch sus-
tained, without damage, a tremendous blow Irom an
irregular mass of fir-tree logs consolidated by ice ;
and in 1818, a schooner was drifted under the bridge,
and suffered the loss of her 2 masts, the iron arch
remaining uninjured. The total cost of the bridge
was £ 13,971- By means of this bridge and that at
Lovat, the benefit of the Great Highland road, with-
out the intervention of any ferry, was extended to
the northern extremity of Great .Britain; the bridges
of Dunkeld, Lovat, Conan, and Bouar, forming a
connected series of bridges, which for size, solidity,
and utility, are not surpassed any where in the king-
dom.
BO-NESS. See Borrowstounness.
BONHILL,* a parish in the county of Dumbarton,
bounded on the north by Luss parish, the southern
extremity of Loch Lomond, and the parish of Kil-
uiai'onock ; ou the east by Kilmaronock and Dum-
barton ; on the south by Dumbarton and Cardross ;
and on the west by Cardross and Luss. It is 5 miles
in length, and about 3i- miles in breadth. The south
end of Loch Lomond, with the Leven which issues
from it, divide the parish nearly into tu o equal parts.
The Leven, — whose beauties Smollett has sung
in his well known verses : —
On Leven's banks while free to rove,
And tune the rural pipe to love,
1 envied mil the happiest swain
That ever trod th' Arcadian plain, —
is remarkable for the softness of its water, and the
clearness of its stream. Gaelic scholars derive its
name from the w ortls Le, ' smooth' or ' soft,' and
Avon, ' a river.' It issues from Loch Lomond at
Balloch, and tails into the frith of Clyde at Dum-
barton castle. In a straight line from the lake to
the Clyde, it will measure about 5 miles ; but its
course, owing to its windings, is more than 9 miles.
The fall from the lake to the Clyde is 22 feet. The
tide flows up the river more than a third of its
length ; and large vessels come up to the quay of
Dumbarton at high tide, but the navigation is
much impeded by a sand-bar at the mouth of the
river ; where the tide fails, the vessels are drawn up
the river by horses. These vessels are constructed
to draw little water. They are chiefly employed in
bringing coals, lime, and other heavy articles, to the
manufacturers and others who reside upon the banks
of the Leven and the lake ; and in carrying down
wood and bark from the coppices in Loch Lomond,
and slates from the slate-quarries in the parish of
Luss. The Leven produces salmon, parr, and a
variety of trout, and other small fish. The salmon
it produces are reckoned among the best in Scot-
land. The largest salmon ever taken in the Leven
weighed 45 tbs. troy. The salmon-fishing in that part
ot the Leven which lies in the parish of Bonhill,
rented, about 10 years ago, at 300 merks. The last
lease of the fishings on the Leven, the property of
* " The ancient mode of spelling; the name of the parish was
Jiuneil, which, in the opinion ot some judges ot the Gaelic lan-
guage, means) 'a bottom' or ' hollow.' Others imagine that it
signifies ' the Surgeon's residence,' as the ancient family of
Lennox had a mansion-house in the parish, and several places
derive their names from their servants and dependants," — Old
Statistical Account
the town in Dumbarton, was at the rent of ,£270.
Some peculiar excellencies in the water of Leven
have encouraged manufacturers to settle in this par-
ish. The softness of its water fits it, in a peculiar
manner, for the purposes of bleaching. It is seldom
or never muddy, as the rivers and bums from the
hills fall first into Loch Lomond, where the mud
they carry along with them subsides. Neither is it
subject to sudden risings and fallings, though at all
times commanding a full supply from its great source.
The first priuttield on the Leven was begun about
17118. There are two villages in the parish, besides
several houses built upon feus, or long leases, by the
manufacturers adjoining the printfields. In the vil-
lage of Alexandria [which see] the houses are
built upon feus, at the rate of £8 per acre ; in the
village of Bonhill, upon a lease oi 99 years, at the
rate of £6 per acre. The grounds occupied by the
printfields and bleachfields are feud at the rate of £2
10s. per acre. The valued rent of the parish is
£2,180 9s. 2d. Scots. The real rent may be £4,500
Sterling. The value of property, as assessed in 1815,
was £5,611. There are about 300 acres planted
with Scotch firs and larix. There is an ash-tree in
the churchyard of Bonhill, the trunk of which is 9
feet in length, the girth, immediately above the
surface of the ground, 25 feet; about 3 feet above
the surface it measures 19A feet ; and, at the nar-
rowest part, 18 feet. It divides into three great
branches; the girth of the largest of which is 11
feet; of the second, 10 ; and of the third, 9 feet 2
inches. The branches hang down to within a few
feet of the ground ; and, from the extremity of the
branches on the one side, to that of those on the
other, it measured no less than 94 feet. There was
another large ash-tree, the trunk of which w as about
1 1 feet in length ; the girth, immediately above the
surface of the ground, 33 feet ; and at the narrowest
part it measures 19 feet 10 inches. The proprietor
fitted up a room in the inside of it, with benches
around and three glass windows. The diameter of
the room was 8 feet 5 inches, and from 10 to 11
feet high. Population in 1801, 2,460; in 1831,
3,623. Houses, in 1831, 390. About seven-eighths
of the population inhabit the vale of the Leven, and
are employed at the bleachfields and printfields on that
river This parish is in the presbytery of Dumbar-
ton, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron,
Campbell of Stonefield ; stipend £224 15s. 3d., with
a glebe of the value of £15. There are two paro-
chial schools, attended together by about 100 chil-
dren, and 7 private schools attended by about 300
children. The parochial schoolmasters have a sal-
ary of £21 7s. 8fd. each, with about £15 fees, and
other emoluments. The ancient family of Lennox
had a mansion-house at the south end of Loch
Lomond ; but nothing remains ot it but the fosse.
The tradition is, that the materials of the mansion
were carried from this place to one of the islands in
the lake, to build a castle there, as a place of greater
safety, and where a considerable part of the building
still remains, though in ruins. The whole lands in
the parish formerly belonged to the family of Len-
nox ; but in the 15th century, the Darnley family, by
marriage, got one-half of the estate, and the titles.
The other half went to the Rusky family. Smollett,
the novelist, was-born in the old mansion-house of
Bonhill, and a monument has been erected here to
his memory.
BONN1NGTON, a small village on the water
of Leith, about a mile north of Edinburgh, on the
road to Newhaven. There is a mineral well here.
BONNINGTON, a village in the county of Mid-
Lothian, in the parish of Katho, ij mile south-west
of the village.
BON
153
BOR
BONNY (The), a river in Stirlingshire, which
takes its rise in the parish of Kilsyth, and, run-
ning eastward, falls into the Carron, a little below
Dunipace.
BOOSHALA, or Bhuachilt.e, an islet off the
south roast of Staffa, from which it is separated by
a channel about 30 yards wide, throutrl: which a
loamy surf is constantly rushing. It is cf an irregu-
lar pyramidal form, entirely composed of basaltic
pillars inclined in every direction, but principally
pointing towards the top of the cone, resembling —
Dr. Garnett remarks — billets of wood piled up in
order to be charred. Many of the columns are
horizontal, and some of them bent into segments of
circles.
BORA HOLM, one of the Orkneys; constituting
part of the parish of Rendal. It is opposite to the
entrance of the harbour called the Millburn, in the
isle of Gairsa, and is uninhabited.
BORERAY, a small fertile island of the Hebrides,
lying northward of North Uist. It is about li mile
in length, and i mile in breadth. Lochmore, a small
lake in this island, the bottom of which was only 24
feet above low water-mark, was recently drained,
whereby, at an expense of only £125, about 47 Scots
acres of good soil, being a mixture of alluvial earth
and sand, were gained.
BORERAY, a small island of the Hebrides, about
a mile in circuit, lying 2 miles north of St. Kilda.
BORGUE, a parish in the stewartry of Kirkcud-
bright: Its length is about 10, and its extreme
breadth 7 miles ; but, from its irregularity of out-
line, the superficial contents are not more than 40
square miles. It is bounded throughout nearly one-
half of its circumference by the sea on the east and
south-west; by Girthon on the north-west; and
Twynholm on the north-east; having an extent of
coast of upwards of 15 miles, indented with several
bays where vessels may anchor with safety. In some
places, the coast presents a perpendicular cliff 300
feet high. The surface is very unequal, but there
are no high hills. Though mostly arable, a great
part of the parish is under pasture, and a number of
black cattle and sheep are reared in it. Freestone
and wbinstone are abundant. There are two fine
ruins within the parish, — the tower of Balrnangan,
and Pluiiton castle. Population, in 1801, 820; in
1831,894. Houses 160. Assessed property in 1815,
£1 1,283 This parish is in the presbytery of Kirk-
cudbright, and synod of Galloway. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend, £230 16s. 10d., with a glebe of
the value of £29. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4d.
with £36 fees, and £50 other emoluments. Pupils
160. There is also a small private school. The old
parish of Sandwick forms the southern part of the
present parish. The ruins of its church are still
visible on the side of the bay. Tradition relates
that it was sacrilegiously plundered of its plate by
French rovers, some time previous to the Reforma-
tion; but that a storm wrecked the vessel on a
rock nearly opposite the church, where the pirates
perished. It is called the Frenchman's rock. The
church of Kirk- Andrew in this parish, originally
belonged to the monks of Iona; when the devasta-
tions of the Danish pirates left them without an
establishment, William the Lion transferred it, along
with their churches and estates in Galloway, to the
monks of Holyrood. It afterwards fell into the
hands of the prior and canons of Whithorn. The
ruins of this ancient kirk, dedicated to the patron
saint of Scotland, stand on a creek of the Solway
which from it is called Kirk-Andrew's bay.
BORLAND, or Boreland, a village in Fifeshire,
in the parish of Dysart, £ mile north of that town,
containing, in 1811, 228 inhabitants; in 1831, only
184. They are chiefly colliers. The village belongs
in property to the Earl of Rosslvn.
BORLAND-PARK. See Auchterarder.
BORLEY (Loch), a small lake in the north of
Sutherlandshire. parish of Durness, containing abun-
dance of a species of trouts called Red bellies, which
are only fished for in October.
BOROUGH-MOOR, a tract of ground, formerly
an open common, in the shire of Edinburgh) and
parish of St. Cuthbert ; adjacent to the city of Edin-
burgh on the south. In the west end of the Borough-
moor, there stood a large chapel dedicated to St.
Roque, and round it there was a cemetery where those
who died of the plague were interred. The town-
council, in 1532, granted four acres of ground in the
Borough-moor to Sir John Young, the chaplain, for
which he was bound to keep the roof and windows
of the chapel in repair; but at the Reformation the
church and churchyard were converted into private
property. A part of the walls of this chapel are
still standing ; Grose has preserved a view of it.
This moor appears, in 1513, to have abounded with
large oak-trees; and here James IV. reviewed his
army before he marched to the fatal battle of Flod-
den-field. See Notes to ' The Lay of the Last
Minstrel.'
BORROWSTOUNNES8, or Bo'ness, a parish
in the county of Linlithgow; bounded by Carriden on
the east ; Linlithgow on the south ; Polmont on the
west ; and the frith of Forth on the north. It is
about 4 miles in length, and 2J in breadth. The
surface declines gradually on the north toward the
Forth, and on the west to the river Avon. The
soil is a deep loam, well-cultivated. There are
several excellent coal-pits within the parish ; iron-
stone also abounds ; and there are great beds of lime-
stone, but of bad quality. Quarries of freestone and
whinstone are wrought here. The house of Kinniel,
long inhabited by the venerable and accomplished
metaphysician Dugald Stewart, is a seat of the
Hamilton family, and as such is frequently mentioned
in history. Population of the town and parish in
1801,2,790; in 1831,2.809. Houses323. Assessed
property, in 1815, £9,093 This parish is in the
presbytery of Linlithgow, and synod of Lothian and
Tueeddale. Patron, the Duke of Hamilton. Sti-
pend £272 7s. 7d., with a glebe of the value of
£21, and free coal — There is a United Secession
church within the town Schoolmaster's salary £34
4s. 4d., with about £60 fees. Average number of
scholars 100. In 1834. there were eleven private
schools within the parish, attended by about 250
chiWren Prior to the middle of the 17th century,
Kinniel was the name of the parish, but the inhabi-
tants of Borrowstounness having built a church for
themselves, the town was created a separate parish.
In 1669, the Duke of Hamilton procured an act of
parliament for uniting the two districts, and since
that time the old landward-church of Kinniel has
been neglected, though the burying-ground remains.
The burgh of Borrowstounness in the above
parish is 9 miles west of Queensferry, 8 east of Fal-
kirk, and 3 north of Linlithgow. It is situated on
a low peninsula washed by the Forth, at the north-
east corner of the parish, only a few feet above high
water-mark. It has two principal streets running
from west to east about 300 yards, which terminate in
one which is 350 yards more. The streets and lanes
are narrow ; the houses in general low and old-fashion-
ed. Borrowstounness is a burgh of barony under the
Duke of Hamilton. Its population, in 1831, was 2,188,
and there were at that time 65 houses within burgh
of the yearly value of £10 and upwards. The and
nual revenue averages £216, of which about one-
half arises from anchorage and harbour-dues, and
EOR
154
BOR
about .£14 from impost on ale. The petty customs
are the property of the superior. There is some
ship-building carried on here; and in the immediate
vicinity were extensive salt-works, at which 30,000
bushels used to be manufactured annually. The
harbour is one of the safest and most commodious in
the frith, having a great depth of water. By an act
passed in 1744, an impost of 2d. Scots was laid on
every Scots pint of ale and beer sold within the
town and parish, to be vested in timber for improv-
ing the harbour. In 1816 an act was passed, author-
izing trustees, for a period of 25 years from its date,
to assess and levy a duty not exceeding Is. on the
pound of rent, on all buildings within the town, for
cleaning, paving, and lighting the town, and supply-
ing it with water. The total debt in 1834, was
.£2,030. Two or three Greenlarulmen belong to
this port, and it has some coasting-trade, but its
commerce has greatly declined. Defoe describes this
town as consisting " only of one straggling street,
which is extended along the shore, close to the
water. It has been, and still is, a town of the great-
est trade to Holland and France of any in Scotland,
except Leith; but it suffers very much of late by
the Dutch trade being carried on so much by way of
England. However," he adds, " if the Glasgow
merchants would settle a trade to Holland and Ham-
burgh in the firth, by bringing their foreign goods by
land to Alloway, and exporting them from thence,
as they proposed some time ago, 'tis very likely the
Borrowstounness men would come into business
again ; for as they have the most shipping, so they
are the best seamen in the firth, and are very good
pilots for the coast of Holland, the Baltic, and the
coast of Norway." It has a custom-house. About
45 years ago a canal was begun to be cut between
this place and Grangemouth, to communicate there
with the Forth and Civ decanal. This canal was
never finished. There is an annual fair held here on
the 16th of November — In 1774 an embankment,
1£ mile in length, was made westwards from this
port along the north side of the carse of Kinniel,
with the view not of gaining but of saving ground
from the sea. It has answered this purpose very
well, and effectually protects about 450 acres of
carse-land, at present rented at £<t 4s. per acre.
BORROWSTOWN, a fishing-village on the
north coast of Caithness, parish of Keay, 6 miles
west of Thurso.
BORTHWICK, a parish in the shire of Edin-
burgh ; bounded on the north by Cockpen, New-
bottle, a detached portion of Temple parish, and
Cranston parish ; on the east by Crkbton parish ; on
the south by Heriot; and on the west by Temple
and Carrington parishes. Measured from the village
of Ford on the north-east, to Castleton hill on the
south-west, it is nearly 6 miles in length ; and from
Arniston bridge on the north-west, to Fala hill on
the south-east, it is about 4 miles in breadth. The
general aspect of the parish is hilly, especially when
viewed from the kirk-town, which is near the centre
of the parish. Two streams, known as the South
and North Middleton burns, descend from the Moor-
ioot hills on the southern boundary of the parish,
and, alter pursuing north-easterly courses, unite a
little above the kirk-town ; and then fetching a
circuit round the mole on which Borthwick castle is
built, rlow north-west, under the name of the Gore,
to a point a little beyond Arniston bridge, where
they unite with the South Esk. These streams
urain a vast extent of upland surface, and are con-
sequently subject to sudden and extensive floods.
The South Esk divides Boithwick parish irom Car-
rh gton parish; and the Tyne divides it on the
east from Crichtou. Many romantic scenes occur
throughout this district, particularly in the valleys
of the Gore and the Tyne ; and the locality is a fa-
vourite one with botanists. Grahame has described
the sylvan scenery of the district in the following
lines: —
" What though fair Srotlaud's valleys rarely vaunt
The oak majestical, whose aged houghs
Darken a rood hreadth ! yet nowhere is seen
Wore beaute.iiisly profuse, wild underwood ;
Nowhere 'lis seen more beauteonsly profuse.
Than on thy tangling banks, vvell-woodt-d hsk,
And Bortluviek, thine, above that fairy nook
Formed by your blending streams. — The hawthorn there,
With moss and lichen grey, dies of old age,
No steel profane permitted to intrude:
Up to the topmost tranches climbs the rose,
And mingles with the fading flowers of May ;
While round the brier the honeysuckle wreaths
Entwine, and with their sweet perfume embalm
The dying rose; a never-failing blow
From spring to fall, expands ; the sloethorn white,
As if a flaky shower the leafless sprays
Had hung; the hawthorn, May's fair diadem;
The whin's rich d\e ; the bonny broom ; the rasp
Erect; the rose, red, white, and faintest pink ;
And long-extending bramble's flowery shoots."
There are five villages within the parish. Of the
village of Ford only a few houses belong to Borth-
wick parish. See Ford. Dewarston, on the estate
of Vogrie, a little to the south-west of Ford, is a
beautiful little village, of quiet and cleanly aspect,
and inhabited by about 150 souls. Middleton, on
the line of road leading through the centre of the
parish to Galla water, is pleasantly situated. There
is an inn here, formerly better known as a posting-
station, 13 miles from Edinburgh. Newlandrigg is
a village of about 100 inhabitants. Stobb's mill,
well-known for its gunpowder manufactory, is a vil-
lage of about 70 inhabitants. There are large beds
of limestone within the parish, and lime is exten-
sively manufactured at Hemperston and Middleton,
at Vogrie and Arniston. Population of the parish in
1801,842; in 1831, 1,473. Assessed property in 1815,
.£8,955 ; valued rent, .£5,600 18s. Scots. Houses, in
1831, 296 This parish is in the presbytery of Dal-
keith, and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Pa-
tron, Dundas of Arniston. Stipend .£198 12s. 3d.,
with a glebe of the value of .£28. Unappropriated
teinds ,£15 0s. 8d. Schoolmaster's salary .£34 4s.
44d., with about .£30 fees. Scholars 100. There
are two private schools. The old church was acci-
dentally destroyed by fire in May, 1775. The pre-
sent church, about 40 yards from the ruins of the
old one, was built in 1778. About a fourth part of
the population are dissenters This parish evidently
derives its name from the ancient and once powerful
family of Borthwick, concerning whose origin tra.
ditional accounts are very various. Some say that
they were descended from one Andreas, a son of the
lord of Burtick in Livonia, who accompanied Queen
Margaret from Hungary to Scotland, in 1057, and
having got possession of some lands in the west or
south parts of this country, his posterity, with some
small alteration in the spelling, assumed the surname
of Borthwick, from the place of their progenitor's
birth. Others are of opinion that the name is
merely local. Be that as it may, certain it is, that
during the 15th and following centuries, the lords
of Borthwick had immense possessions and very
great influence in this part of the country. The
peerage is now dormant; John, the 9th Lord Borth-
wick, having died without issue in 1672. The present
proprietor, though a branch of the old family, ac-
quired the property by purchase, and is now a claim-
ant for the titles also of his ancestors. What now
constitutes this parish formerly belonged to the col-
lege-kirk of Crichtou, which lies about a mile north-
east of this place. In April, 1596, James I. dis-
solved from the said college-kirk the prebendaries
BORTHWICK
15.3
of Ardnalestoun (now Arniston), of Middlefon first
and second, and of Vogrie. of old called Lochquhar-
ret,.or Locherwart, and also two boys or clerks to
assist in the performance of divine service, with
Eiiitable salaries annexed to their office. These
prebendaries, with the haill vicarage of Borthwick,
fruits, rents, manse, and glebe thereof, were then,
by a royal charter, erected into a distinct and sepa-
rate charge, to be in all time coming called the par-
sonage of Borthwick. The year before this, the
presbytery of Dalkeirh had designed a glebe for Mr
Adam Colt, the then officiating parson ; but this
they seem to have considered only as a measure ot
expediency, the parish having been constituted be-
fore the roval charter could be obtained. This Aeet]
must have been regarded at the time as a transaction
of considerable importance: for, in 1606, the erec-
tion of the parsonage by the said charter was so-
lemnly ratified in parliament, and in 1609, confirmed
by George, archbishop of St. Andrew's, as the pa-
tron of said prebendaries ; always reserving, how-
ever, the presentation and advocation of all the
premises, gifts, and benefices, to himself and succes-
sors in office.
About \i mile below the kirk-town, there is, on
the lands of Harviestou, beautifully situated by the
side of the Gore, a ruin, called the old castle of Cat-
cune, which is said to have been the residence of
the family of Borthwick, before they had risen to
such eminence in this country. About the end of
the 14th and beginning of the loth century, lived a Sir
William Borthwick, who, being a man of great parts,
was employed as an ambassador on several important
negotiations, and concerned in most of the public
transactions of his time. This William appears
to have been created Lord Borthwick before
1430; for, in October that year, at the baptism of
the king's two sons, several knights were created,
and among the rest William, son and heir of Lord
Borthwick. He obtained from James 1., of Scotland,
a license to build and fortify a castle on the lands of
Lochwarret, or Locherwoith, which he had bought
from Sir William Hay: " Ad construendam castrum
in loco illo qui vulgariter dicitur le Mote de Loehor-
wart." This grant was obtained by a charter under
the great seal, June 2d, 1430. A stately and most
magnificent cattle was accordingly reared, and after?
ward became the chief seat and title of the family.
This amazing mass of building is yet upon the whole
very entire, and of astonishing strength. There is
indeed in the middle of the east wall a considerable
breach ; but whether occasioned by a dash of light-
ning, or by the influence of the weather, or by some
original defect in the building, cannot now with cer-
tainty be determined. The form of this venerable
structure is nearly square, being 74 by 68 feet with-
out the walls, but having on the west side a large
opening which seems to have been intended to give
light to the principal apartments. The walls them-
selves— which are of hewn stone without and within,
and most firmly cemented — are 13 feet thick near
the bo:tom, and towards the top are gradually con-
tracted to about 6 feet. Besides the sunk story, they
are, from the adjacent area to the battlement, 9J
feet high; and if we include the roof, which is arched
and covered with flag-stones, the whole height will be
about 1 10 feet. " From the battlements oi Borthwick
castle, w hich command a varied and beautiful view,
the top of Crichton castle can be discovered, Ling
about two miles distant to the eastward. The con-
venience of communicating by signal with a neigh-
bouring fortress was an object so much studied in the
erection of Scottish castles, that, in all probability,
this formed one reason of the unusual height to
which Borthwick castle is raised.!' — [' Provincial An-
tiquities of Scotland.' Edn. 1834, p. 200.] In ona
of the low apartments is an excellent sprir:g-well,
now filled up with rubbish. On the first story are
state-rooms, which were once accessible by a draw-
bridge. The great hall is 40 feet long, and so high
in the roof that, says Nisbet, •' a man on horseback
imght turn a spear in it with all the ease imaginable."
The chimney, which is very large, has been carved
and gilded, and in every corner may be traced the
remains of fallen greatness. " On the 11th of June,
1567, Morton, Mar, Hume, and Lindsay, with other
inferior barons, and attended by nine hundred or a
thousand horse, on a sudden surrounded the castle
of Borthwick. where Bothwell was in company with
the queen. Bothwell had such early intelligence of
their enterprise, that he had time to ride off with a
very few attendants; and the insurgent nobles, when
they became aware of his escape, retreated to Dal-
keith, and from thence to Edinburgh, where they
had friends who declared for them, in spite of the
efforts of Qneen Mary's partisans. The latter, find-
ing themselves the weaker party, retreated to the
castle, while the provost and the armed citizens, to
whom the defence of the town was committed, did
not, indeed, open their gates to the insurgent lords,
but saw them forced without offering opposition.
These sad tidings were carried to Mary by Beaton,
the writer of the letter, who found her still at Borth-
wick, 'so quiet, that there was none with her pass-
ing six or seven persons.' She had probably calcu-
lated on the citizens of Edinburgh defending the
capital against the insurgents ; when this hope failed,
she resolved on flight. ' Her majesty,' says the
letter, 'in men's clothes, booted and spurred, de-
parted that same night from Borthwick to Dunbar:
whereof no man knew, save my lord duke, (i. e.
Bothwell, created Duke of Orkney,) and some of
his servants, who met her majesty a mile from Borth-
wick, and conveyed her to Dunbar.' We may
gather from these particulars, that, although the
confederated lords had declared against Bothwell,
they had not as yet adopted the purpose of imprison-
ing Queen Mary herself. When Both well's escape
was made known, the blockade of Borthwick was
instantly raised, although the place had neither
garrison nor means of defence. The more audacious
enterprise of making the queen prisoner, had not
been adopted by the insurgents until the event of the
incidents at Carberry-hill showed such to have been
the Scottish queen's unpopularity at the time, that
any attempt might be hazarded against her person or
liberty, without the immediate risk of its being re-
sented by her subjects. There seems to have been
an interval of nearly two days betwixt the escape of
Bothwell from Borthwick castle, and the subsequent
flight of the queen in disguise to Dunbar. If, during
that interval, .Mary could have determined on separ-
ating her fortunes from those of the deservedly
detested Bothwell, her page in history might have
closed more happily." — [' Provincial Antiquities,' p.
208.] The castle is surrounded on every side but
one by steep ground and water, and at equal dis-
tances from the base are square and round towers.
" Like many other baronial residences in Scotland,
Sir William de Borthwick built this magnificent
pile upon the very verge of bis own property. The
usual reason for choosing such a situation was hinted
by a northern baron, to whom a friend objected this
circumstance as a defect, at least an inconvenience :
' We'll brizz yont,' (An</lice, press forward,) was
the baron's answer; which expressed the policy of
the powerful in settling their residence upon the
extremity of their domains, as giving pretext and
opportunity for making acquisitions at the expense
of their neighbours. William de Hay, from whom
BOR
156
EOT
Sir William Borthwick had acquired a part of Loch-
erworth, is said to have looked with envy upon the
splendid castle or' his neighbour, and to have vented
his spleen by building a mill upon the lauds of Little
Lockerw'orth, immediately beneath the knoll on
which the fortress was situated, declaring that the
Lord of Borthwick, in all his pride, should never be
out of hearing of the clack of his neighbour's mill.
The mill accordingly still exists, as a property inde-
pendent of the castle." — [' Provincial Antiquities,'
p. 200.] Strong, however, as this fortress was both
by nature and art, it was not proof against the arms
of Oliver Cromwell. John, Sth Lord Borthwick,
had, during the Civil war, remained firmly attached
to the royal cause, and thus drew upon himself
the vengeance of the Protector, who, by a letter,
dated at Edinburgh, 18th November, 1650, sum-
moned him to surrender in these terms :
" For the Governor of Borthwick Citstle, These.
" Sir,— I thought fitt to send this trumpett to ynu, to If tt you
know that, if yon please to walk away with your company,
ami deliver the liou.se to such as 1 shall send to receive it, you
shall have libel-tie 10 carry off your amies and yoods, and such
other necessaries as you have. You barboured such parties in
your house as have basely unhuinunely murdered our men; if
you necessitate me to bend my cannon against you, you must
expect what I doubt you will not be pleased with'. I expect
your present answer, and rest your servant,
O. Cuomwlll."
A surrender was not the immediate consequence
of this peremptory summons, for the castle held out
until artillery were opened upon it; but seeing no
appearance of relief, Lord Borthwick obtained
honourable terms of capitulation, viz., liberty to
inarch out with his lady and family unmolested, and
fifteen days allowed to remove his effects. Not-
withstanding the waste of time, the grand appearance
of this princely edifice still fills the mind of the be-
holder with veneration.
This parish has produced several eminent men.
Principal Robertson was born in the manse of
Borthwick, and ever cherished an attachment to the
place of his nativity, and the scenes of his youth.
The Dundases of Arniston have made a conspicuous
figure in Scottish history. Two of the heads of that
family were presidents of the highest civil courts in
this country ; and the Right Honourable Henry
Dundas rose to the office of secretary of state.
James Small, an eminent mechanic and agricultural
implement maker, was also a native of this parish.
BORTHWICK (The), a Roxburghshire stream,
whose head-streams, Craikhope burn, Howpassley
burn, and Brownshope burn descend from the range
of hills on the south-west skirts of the county, where
the shires of Selkirk, Dumfries, and Roxburgh meet.
It flows in a north-east direction and with a rapid
course, through the parish of Roberton; and joins the
Teviot a little below Branxholm, and about 2 miles
above Hawick.
BOSWELL'S (St.), or Lessudden, a parish on
the banks of the Tweed, in Roxburghshire ; bounded
on the north by the parish of Melrose, and the
Tweed which separates it from Berwickshire; on
the east by the Tweed and Maxtown parish; on
the south by Antrum parish ; and on the west by
Bowden parish. It derives its name, St. Boswell,
from St. Boiscl a disciple of St. Cuthbert, who is
eaid to have founded the church of this parish.
Lessudden is the name of the principal village in the
parish, and is supposed to have been originally Lis-
Aidan, that is, 'the Residence of Aidan;' or perhaps
Lessedwin — as it is in old chartularies — that is, ' the
Manor-place of Edwin.' It was burnt by the Eng-
lish, under Sir Ralph Sadler, in 1544. It is 10 miles
west of Kelso, and 4 east of Melrose. The old vil-
lage of St. Boswell's stood about a mile to the south-
east of Lessudden. St. Boswell'9 burn, rising in
Bowden parish, intersects the parish, and falls into
the Tweed a little above Lessudden. The super-
ficial area of the parish is 2,600 acres, nearly all
arable. The valued rent is £4,330 18s. 2d. Scots.
Real rental, in 1792, about £1,600; in 1834, about
±'3,000. Assessed property, in 1815, ±4,048. Popu-
lation, in 1801, 497; in 1831, 701. Houses 117—
This parish is in the presbytery of Selkirk, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Luke
of Buccleugh. Stipend ±'211 lis. 7d., with a glebe
of the value of ±12. Unappropriated tenuis ±572
10s. Schoolmaster's salary ±25 13s., with about
±40 fees. Average number of pupils 50. There is
a small private school. Robert Scott, Esq. of Pen-
ang, left ±100, and a field of 5 acres, for behoof of
the poor of this parish.
St. Boswell's fair is held on a large green of the
same name, of about 40 acres in extent, through
which passes the turnpike-road from the Lotuiaiis
to Jedburgh, &c. It is the greatest in the south of
Scotland. It is held annually on the 18th of July ;
or on the Monday following, if the 18th fall on a
Sunday. Its happening either on the Monday or
Saturday is very justly thought to occasion much
inattention to the religious observance of the Sab-
bath ; and the evil has been often and long since
complained of, but no remedy has yet been applied.
If the day be fine, the concourse of people from all
the surrounding country is immense; and some come
from a very considerable distance. Great flocks of
sheep and lambs — the latter chiefly Leicester and
crosses — are brought hither from all parts of the
adjacent country, and generally find so ready a mar-
ket as to be disposetl of early in the morning, or at
latest in the forenoon. The average number shown
at this fair, until within these ten or twelve years,
was 30,000; it does not now exceed 20,000. " The
chief purchasers are the Berwickshire and East Lo-
thian graziers. The show of black cattle is not very-
imposing; but the show of horses has ustiallv been
so fine that buyers attend from all parts both of
the north of England and south of Scotland. Linen
cloth, hardware, toys, crockery, and other miscel-
laneous articles, are also exhibited to a considerable
amount in value, in booths — or, as they are here
called, aaims — which are erected in great numbers
on the green. St. Boswell's is among the last of the
wool-fairs, and generally winds up the wool-trade
for the season. The money tumeU in the course of
the day at this fair used to be from ±8,000 to
±10,000 sterling. The Duke of Buccleugh receives
a certain rate or tell upon sheep, cattle, and all other
commodities brought into this fair for sale. Old
sheep pay one merk Scots per score; lambs, one-half
of that sum ; and so on. This toll is sometimes
collected by people appointed for the purpose ; but
is more commonly let for such a sum of money as
can be agreed on. The highest at which it ever
was let was ±53, the lowest ±33 ; and the average
is supposed to he about ±38.
BOTHKENNAR, a small parish of Stirlingshire,
in the carse of Falkirk; about 1£ mile in length,
and nearly of equal breadth. It is bounded on the
north by the parish of Airth ; on the west by the
parish of Larbeft ; on the south by the parishes of
Falkirk and Polmont; and on the east, by the Forth.
It seems anciently to have been bounded on the
south by the river Carron, but that river, having
changed its course, now intersects both the parishes
of Bothkennar and Falkirk, leaving part of the for-
mer on the south, and a small part of the latter upon
the north side of it. The parish contains 96 ox-
gangs of land, of 13 acres each, or 1,248 Scots acres
in whole; the old valuation of which is ±3,591 12s.
BOT
157
BOT
fid. Scots. The real rent of the parish, in 1796, was
iibout £2, SOS. Assessed property, in 1815, £5,429.
This district is almost a continuous flat; there is
scarcely the least rising ground to be observed
through the whole of it, ami, excepting the roads,
there is not a spot of it uncultivated. Population,
in 1801, 575; in 1831, 905. Houses 150 .This
parish is in the presbyterv of Stirling, and svnod
of Perth and Stirling. Stipend £201 12s. 10d.,
with a glebe of the value of .£12. Church built in
1789. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4Ad7, with
£10 fees. There is also a private school.
BOTHWELL,* a large parish on the northern
banks of the Clyde, in Lanarkshire. In ancient
times Bothwell was a great and noble barony, ex-
tending from Clyde to the boundaries of West Lo-
thian. It is situated in the Lower ward of the
county of Lanark, ami bounded upon the south by
the river Clyde, and the South Calder; on the west
and north by the North Calder; and on the east by
Shotts. It is of an oval figure, extending from
west to east about 8£ miles in length, and 4 at its
greatest breadth. The great flat of the upper part
of the parish is, at a medium, 300 feet above the
level of the sea; that toward the Clyde is much
lower. The surface rises gradually from the Clyde
to the north and north-east. The old valuation of
the parish is £7,389 16s. 0TV'- Scots. In 1650, the
rental of the parish was £1,950 18s. 5^vd. sterling;
in 1782, £4,431 7s. 4d. sterling. The present rental,
exclusive of the collieries and iron-works, may amount
to between £9,000 and £10,000. The income from
mines and iron-works, it is stated in the New Statis-
tical Account of this parish, is supposed to exceed
£160, 000 per annum. The value of assessed property,
in 1815, was £16,053. The parish abounds in free-
stone. The quarries near the Clyde are of a red-
coloured stone; in the upper part of the parish, of a
beautiful white. Coal is extensively wrought, and
there are large iron-works. Population, in 1801,
3,017; in 1831,5,545. Houses in 1831, 1,086. If
the parish were divided by a line drawn across the
narrowest part, passing a little to the east of the
village of Bellshill, the population of the two dis-
tricts would be nearly equal; but that of the eastern
district is composed of colliers, iron-smelters, and
others connected with the coal and iron works; while
that of the west is chiefly agricultural labourers and
weavers. The village of Bothwell is 36| miles
from Edinburgh; 8 from Glasgow; 27 from Stirling;
and 17 from Lanark This parish is in the pres-
bytery of Hamilton, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr.
Patron, the Duke of Hamilton. Stipend £282 lis.
8d., with a glebe of the value of £36. Unappro-
priated teinds £491 12s. lid. Church built in 1833;
sittings 1,150. It is a very handsome Gothic edifice,
with a tower 120 feet in height; cost £4,179. A
preaching-station was opened at Holy town in March,
1834; ami a church has since been built a little to
the east of that town, with 830 sittings, at a cost of
£1,152, for the accommodation of parties connected
with the Established church in the eastern district
of the parish. Salary about £60 There is a Relief
congregation at Bellshill. Church built in 1763;
sittings 812. Stipend £120, with a manse and glebe
of the value of £30 A United Secession congre-
gation was established and a church built in 1802 at
* The origin of this name is uncertain. Both, in Celtic, Syriac,
Chaliiee, and Saxon, signifies ' a Habitation nr Dwelling.* Hyl or
Hull, in Celtic, is 'a Flood or Water;' and compounded with
both, Bothait or Bothwell may signify ' a Habitation beside or
on the Waters.1 Old Statistical Account. — Chalmers suggests
tnat as gwith or,, in composition, will, means 'a Stranger or
Interloper,' BothwUl HT Botlivyll .may signify 'the Habitation
'lit the Stranger.' Caledonia, iii. p. 700 — bullet renders Both-
well, 'a Castle upon an eminence ;' from both, which he inter-
prets • Eiuineace,' and wall, in composition well, ' a Castle.
Newarthill. Sittings COO. Stipend £70, with a
house, and glebe of the value of £14 There are
three parish -schools and ten private schools. The
parochial schoolmaster has a salary of £34 4s., each
of the other two has a salary of £8 lis. By a
census made by the parish-minister of Bothwell in
1836 it was found that, of a total population of
6,381, there were 3,757 in connexion svith the Es-
tablished church, and 2,485 in connexion with other
denominations For further information regarding
this parish, see articles : Calder, Chapelhall,
Clyde, Holytown, Uddingstone, &c.
The castle of Bothwell, on the north bank of the
Clyde in this parish, is a very ancient and noble
structure. What of it remains occupies a space in
length 234 feet, and in breadth 99 feet over the
walls. The walls are upwards of 15 feet in thick-
ness, and in some places 60 feet high, built of a kind
of red grit or friable sandstone. In the notes to
Wordsworth's poems [Vol. v, p. 379, edn. 1839,]
occurs the following description of this noble relic
of feudal ages: "It was exceedingly delightful to
enter thus unexpectedly upon such a beautiful re-
gion. The castle stands nobly, overlooking the
Clyde. When we came up to it, I was hurt to see
that flower-borders had taken place of the natural
overgrowings of the ruin, the scattered stones and
wild plants. It is a large and grand pile of red free-
stone, harmonizing perfectly with the rocks of the
river, from which, no doubt, it has been hewn.
When I was a little accustomed to the unnatural-
ness of a modern garden, I could not help admiring
the excessive beauty and luxuriance of some of the
plants, particularly the purple-flow ered clematis, and
a broad-leafed creeping plant without flowers, which
scrambled up the castle wall, along with the ivy,
and spread its vine-like branches so lavishly that it
seemed to be in its natural situation, and one could
not help thinking that, though not self-planted
among the ruins of this country, it must somewhere
have its native abode in such places. If Bothwell
castle had not been close to the Douglas mansion,
we should have been disgusted with the possessor's
miserable conception of adorning such a venerable
ruin ; but it is so very near to the house, that of
necessity the pleasure-grounds must have extended
beyond it, and perhaps the neatness of a shaven lawn
and the complete desolation natural to a ruin might
have made an unpleasing contrast; and, besides be-
ing within the precincts of the pleasure-grounds, and
so very near to the dwelling of a noble family, it has
forfeited, in some degree, its independent majesty,
and becomes a tributary to the mansion ; its solitude
being interrupted, it has no longer the command
over the mind in sending it back into past times, or
excluding the ordinary feelings which we bear about
us in daily life. We had then only to regret that
the castle and the house were so near to each other;
and it was impossible not to regret it; for the ruin
presides in state over the river, far from city or
town, as if it might have a peculiar privilege to pre-
serve its memorials of past ages, and maintain its
own character for centuries to come. We sat upon
a bench under the high trees, and had beautiful views
of the different reaches of the river, above and be-
low. On the opposite bank, which is finely wooded
with elms and other trees, are the remains of a pri-
ory built upon a rock; and rock and ruin are so
blended, that it is impossible to separate the one
from the other. Nothing can be more beautiful than
the little remnant of this holy place : elm trees (for
we were near enough to distinguish them by their
branches) grow out of the walls, and overshadow a
small, but very elegant window. It can scarcely be
conceived what a grace the castle and priory impart
158
BOTHWELL.
to each other; and the river Clyde flows on, smooth
and unruffled below, seeming to my thoughts more
in harmony with the sober and stately images of
former times, than if it had roared over a rocky
channel, forcing its sound upon the ear. It blended
gently with the warbling of the smaller birds, and
the chattering of the larger ones, that had made their
nests in the ruins. In this fortress the chief of the
English nobility were confined after the battle of
Bannockburn. If a man is to be a prisoner, he
scarcely could have a more pleasant place to solace
his captivity; but I thought that, for close confine-
ment, I should prefer the banks of a lake, or the
sea-side. The greatest charm of a brook or river is
in the liberty to pursue it through its windings; you
can then take it in whatever mood you like ; silent
or noisy, sportive or quiet. The beauties of a brook
or river must be sought, and the pleasure is in going
in search of them ; those of a lake or of the sea
come to you of themselves. These rude warriors
cared little, perhaps, about either ; and yet, if one
may judge from the writings of Chaucer, and from
the old romances, more interesting passions were
connected with natural objects in the days of chiv-
alry than now; though going in search of scenery,
as it is called, had not then been thought of. I had
previously heard nothing of Bothwell castle, at least
nothing that I remembered; therefore, perhaps, my
pleasure was greater, compared with what I received
elsewhere, than others might feel." — The following
is a concise statement of the various lords or masters
this castle has successively received in the vicissi-
tudes of fortune. During the reign of Alexander II.
it belonged to Walter Olifard, justiciary of Lothian,
who died in 1242. It afterwards passed by marriage
to the Morays or Hurrays. In the time of Edward I.
it was given to Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pem-
broke. Upon his forfeiture, it was given by Robert
Bruce to Andrew Murray, Lord Bothwell, who had
married Christian, sister to that king. With his
grand-daughter, it came to Archibald the Grim, Earl
of Douglas, and continued in their family till their
forfeiture under James II. in 1455. After the for-
feiture of the family of Douglas, the bulk of the
lordship of Bothwell was given to Lord Crichton,
son to Chancellor Crichton; and Bothwell forest,
or Bothwell moor, was obtained by Lord Hamilton,
in exchange for the lands of Kiugswell. Crichton was
forfeited in 14S5, for joining with Alexander Duke
of Albany against James III. It was then given by
James III. to Lord. Monipenny, but afterwards re-
sinned, as having been gifted by the king in his
minority, and bestowed on John Ramsay, who en-
joyed it till 1488, when the lordship of Crichton
was gifted by James IV. to Adam Hepburn, —
" he who died
On Flodden, by his sovereign's side."
It continued in this line till November, 1567) when
James, Earl of Bothwell, was forfeited for the mur-
der of Darnley. Thereafter it was given to Francis
Stewart, son of John, Abbot of Kelso, who was
natural son to James V. ; and on his forfeiture his
estate was gifted to the lairds of Buccleugh and
Roxburgh, from whom the Marquis of Hamilton ac-
quired all the superiority and patronage of that lord-
ship. The castle of Bothwell, with a third of the
lordship, was disponed by Hepburn, Earl of Both-
well, to the Earl of Angus, in exchange for the lord-
ship of Liddisdale. Angus, and Archibald his son,
in 1630, feued off their part of the lordship to the
particular tenants and possessors thereof, reserving
the castle and mains of Bothwell. It was given off
as a patrimonial portion witli the Earl of Forfar, but
again returned to the family of Douglas on the death
of Archibald Earl of Forfar, who died at Stirling of
wounds received at Sherriffmuir, in 1715. The
Douglas family enlarged and improved the castle j
and their arms are found in different places of the
wall. It is said that a great part of it was taken
down by the Earl of Forfar, to build a modern house
out of the materials.
The old church of Bothwell is a structure, in
the Gothic style, of excellent workmanship, 70 feet
in length over the walls, and 39 in breadth. The
roof is arched and lofty. It was lighted with a tire of
large windows on each side, and a great window in
the east end, in the upper part of which the Douglas
arms are cut. At the south corner of the window,
within and without, the same arms are quartered with
the royal arms. The Hamilton arms are engraved
in the centre of the arch which supported the organ
loft. The arched roof is covered with large po-
lished flags of stone, somewhat in the form of pan-
tiles. Near the outer base of the spire, the name of
the master-mason was written in Saxon characters,
" Magister Thomas Tron." In the two east
corners of the church are two sepulchral monu-
ments to the Earl of Forfar and his son. This
building was usi'd as the parish church till 1828.
The collegiate church of Bothwell was founded
October 10, 139S, by Archibald earl of Douglas, for
a provost and 8 prebendaries; with a grant of the
lands of Osberington, or Orbiston, in his barony of
Bothwell, and the lands of Netherurd, in the sheriff-
dom of Peebles. The endowments of this church
were very great ; for besides these lands, there was
given them a right to all the tithes of Bothwell and
Bertram-Shotts, Avondale, and Stonehouse parishes,
and several superiorities. Most of these superiori-
ties, with part of the property, and the tithes, belong
now to the Duke of Hamilton, who is both patron
and titular. The noble founder died in 11U0; and,
as tradition has it, was buried with his lady un-
der a large marble stone in the east end of the
quire. In the same year David, prince of Scotland,
was married to Marjory Douglas, daughter to Archi-
bald, Earl of Douglas, in tbe church of Bothwell.
The provost of Bothwell had a vicar at St. Cath-
erine's chapel, for serving the upper part of the
parish now called the Shotts; but after the Re-
formation, it was divided into two parishes. A list
of the provosts and successive ministers of Bothwell
is given in the Old Statistical Account, of this parish.
Bothwell bridge was the scene of an engagement
on the 22d of June, 1679, between the Covenanters,
and the king's army commanded by the Duke of
Monmouth, assisted by Claverhouse and Dalzel!.
The king's army advanced by the north or Bothwell
side. The Covenanters amounted to 4,000; and the
bridge was vigorously defended for a time by Hack-
ston of Rathillet; but the main body divided among
themselves, and madly employing the precious mo-
ments while the king's troops were carrying the
bridge in cashiering their officers, were soon thrown
into confusion ; 400 were killed, chiefly in the pur-
suit, and 1,200 taken prisoners. The aspect of
the bridge and scenery in the immediate vicinity
has been entirely changed within these few years.
Formerly the bridge, about 120 feet in length, rose
witli an acclivity of about 20 feet; and was only
12 feet in breadth, fortified with a gateway near
the south-east or Hamilton end. The gateway
and gate have been long removed ; and in 1826, 22
feet were added to the original breadth of the bridge,
by a supplemental building on the upper side, while
the hollow on the south bank was filled up. The
Clyde is here 7 1 yards broad.
Bothwell-haugh, about a mile above the bridge,
was formerly the property of James Hamilton of
Bothwell-haugh, who shot the Earl of Murray, then
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159
BOT
regent of Scotland, at Linlithgow, on the 23d of
January, 1569. " He had been condemned to death
soon after the battle of Langside, as we have already
related, and owed his life to the regent's clemency.
But part of his estate had been bestowed upon one
of the regent's favourites, who seized his house, and
turned out his wife naked, in a cold night, into the
open fields, where, before next morning, she became
furiously mad. This injury made a deeper impres-
sion on him than the benefit he had received, and
from that moment he vowed to be revenged of the
regent. Party rage strengthened and inflamed his
private resentment. His kinsmen, the Hamiltons,
applauded the enterprise. The maxims of that age
justified the most desperate course he could take to
obtain vengeance. He followed the regent for some
time, and watched for an opportunity to strike the
blow. He resolved at last to wait till his enemy
should arrive at Linlithgow, through which he was
to pass, in his way from Stirling to Edinburgh. He
took his stand in a wooden gallery, which had a win-
dow towards the street; spread a feather bed on the
floor to hinder the noise of his feet from being heard ;
hung up a black cloth behind him that his shadow
might not be observed from without; and, after all
this preparation, calmly expected the regent's ap-
proach, who had lodged, during the night, in a house
not far distant. Some indistinct information of the
danger which threatened him had been conveyed to
the regent, and he paid so much regard to it, that
he resolved to return by the same gate through
which he had entered, and to fetch a compass round
the town. But as the crowd about the gate was
great, and he himself unacquainted with fear, he
proceeded directly along the street; and the throng
of people obliging him to move very slowly, gave
the assassin time to take so true an aim, that he
shot him with a single bullet through the lower part
of his belly, and killed the horse of a gentleman who
rode on his other side. His followers instantly en-
deavoured to break into the house whence the blow
had come ; but they found the door strongly barri-
radoed ; and, before it could be forced open, Ham-
ilton had mounted a fleet horse, which stood ready
for him at a back passage, and was got far beyond
their reach. The regent died the same night of
his wound." — [Robertson's 'History of Scotland,'
Book V.]*
About a quarter of a mile east of this, there is a
bridge over the South Calder which is thought to
be of Roman construction ; it is a single arch of 20
feet span, high, narrow, and without parapets. The
Roman road called Watling Street — one of the four
great Roman roads in Britain — leading to it from the
east, through Dalziel parish, was in a state of con-
siderable preservation towards the end of last cen-
tury, but is now scarce discernible. — A mile above
this, upon the hanks of the same water, there is a
quarry of the finest millstones in the west of Scotland.
Three miles higher, upon the north bank of the
Calder, in the middle of the steep rock upon which
the house of Cleland stands, is a large natural cove,
which has been partly improven by art, capable of
hohiing 40 or 50 men, and of difficult access. The
entry was secured by a door and an iron gate fixed
in the solid rock; the fire-place, and part of the
chimney and floor, still remain. The tradition is,
that it was used as a place of concealment in the
troublesome times of the country, as far back as
the gallant patriot Sir William Wallace, — perhaps
oy the hero himself, and his trusty band ; also dur-
ing the violent feuds between the house of Cleland
* See Sir Walter Scott's magnificent hallad entitled ' Cadyo'w
Ckslle,' iu the 4tli vol. oi tile ' Border Minstrelsy!'
and Lauchope ; and especially in the convulsions of
this country under the Charles's.
The house of Lauchope was the seat of a very
ancient family, the mother-family of the Muirheads.
It is an old tower-house, with walls of a prodigious
thickness Woodhall, near the village of Holytown,
the property of W. F. Campbell, Esq. of Islay, is a
fine mansion The house of Bothwell, the resi-
dence of Lord Douglas, a handsome edifice consist-
ing of a centre and two wings, stands a little east
from the old castle, and commands a charming view
of the banks, the river, the ruins of the old castle
of Bothwell, and the adjacent country. The banks
of the river have been improved with pleasure-walks,
rustic huts, and shrubbery. The park is enclosed
with a remarkably good wall.
One of the finest views in Scotland is commanded
from the east brow of the hill, upon which the vil-
lage of Bothwell stands. This seems to be the great
promontory which Nature has erected from which
to contemplate the beauties of the Vale of Clyde,
for that river, after it quits this parish, loses its
noble wooded banks, and generally falls into a flat-
ness on both sides. On the right hand, and on the
south side of the river, the residence of the Duke of
Hamilton, called the Palace, Chatelherault, and the
town of Hamilton, appear just under the eye, amidst
extensive pleasure-grounds. A little above this, the
vale is contracted, and the banks of the river become
wide and deep, with a gradual declivity on both
sides, occupied by gentlemen's seats, and highly cul-
tivated and embellished. Numerous orchards are
here interspersed through the groves, which give a
great part of the vale an Italian aspect, or rather
" Tile bloom of blowing Eden fair."
In autumn they are richly loaded with fruits, and
this district may be called the Garden of Scotland.
Beautiful meadows covered with flocks, and rich
fields of corn, adorn the holms and plains ; while
villa succeeds villa, as far as the eye can reach, till
the prospect terminates upon Tintock, at the dis-
tance of 24 miles.
The beauties of Bothwell banks were celebrated
in ancient song, of which the following incident is a
striking proof: " So fell it out of late years, that
an English gentleman, travelling in Palestine, not
far from Jerusalem, as he passed through a country
town, he heard by chance a woman sitting at the
door, dandling her child, to sing,
" Bothwell bank, thou bloomest fair."
The gentleman hereat exceedingly wondered, and
forthwith in English saluted the woman, who joy-
fully answered him, and said, She was right glad
there to see a gentleman of our isle ; and told him,
that she was a Scotch woman, and came first from
Scotland to Venice, and from Venice thither ; where
her fortune was to be the wife of an officer under
the Turk, who being at that instant absent, and very-
soon to return, she entreated the gentleman to stay
there until his return ; the which he did ; and she,
for country sake, to show herself more kind and
bountiful unto him, told her husband at his home-
coming, that the gentleman was her kinsman; where-
upon her husband entertained him very kindly, and
at his departure gave him divers things of good
value." [Verstegan, in his ' Restitution of Decayed
Intelligence,' Antwerp, 1605. Chap. Of the Sirnames
of our Ancient Families.]
BOTR1PHNIE, a parish in Banffshire, about 24
miles west of the county-town; extending from north
to south about 4^, and from east to west about 3
miles. It is bounded on the north by part of Dun-
durcas, in Moray j on the east by Keith and Cairney
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160
BOW
parishes; on the south by Oalrash-Glass , a,fid Mort-
lncb ; and on the west bv Mortlach and Boharm.
The greater part of the parish consists of one beau-
tiful strath, situated between two hills to the north
and south with the small river of lsla, which takes
its rise in the west part of the parish towards Mort-
larh, running- through the middle of it. The banks
of this stream are beautifully adorned with aller and
birch trees; several small rills, which fall into it
from the hills on each side, are clothed in the same
manner. The fields on the north side of the parish
have a good exposure, and are of considerable extent,
stretching from the river to the top of the hill ; for
tlie whole length of the parish on that side, there is
hardly a break in them, except where they are in-
tersected bv a few small rills and clumps of birch
and aller. 'Population, in 1801,589; in 1831,721.
Houses, in 1831, 117- Assessed property, in 1815,
£2,683 This parish is in the presbytery of Strath.
bogie, and synod of Moray. Patron, the Earl of
File. Stipend £178 15s. 5d., with a glebe of the
value of £8 15s. Unappropriated tenuis £254 43.
2d. Schoolmaster's stipend, £30, with about £7
fees. There were two private schools within this
parish in 1834.
BOURT1E, a parish in the Garioch district of Aber-
deenshire ; hounded on the north by the parish of Old
Meldrum ; on the west by Tarves and Udny ; on
the south by Keithhall; and on the west by Daviot.
Its extent is about 4 miles in length, and 2 in breadth,
and it contains about 4,000 acres. About the middle
of the parish there are two ranges of green hills,
which seem to have been laboured at some former
period to within 50 yards of the top. In 1744, there
were only two carts within this parish, and only two
houses which had stone chimneys, — the house of
Barra, and the manse. On the summit of the hill
of Barra, there are the distinct remains of a camp of
a circular form, and surrounded with three ditches.
It is called the Cummin's camp. The Cummins
were a bold and numerous race, who are said to have
been proprietors of the greater part of the Buchan
country, and disaffected to King Robert Bruce.
After the battle near Inverury, in which the king's
arms were victorious, he inarched his troops hither,
stormed this camp, and put the Cummins who had
rallied here to flight. It is probable, however, that
this camp had been originally formed by the Danes,
and that the Cummins had only taken possession
of it as an advantageous post. In the churchyard
there is a rough stone cut out into a coarse statue
of a man. The traditional report is that it was
executed in memory of the celebrated Thomas de
Longueville, the companion of "Wallace, who was
killed in storming the camp, and is buried here.
Population, in 1801, 445 ; in 1831, 472. Houses, in
1831,84. Assessed property, in 1815, £1,709
This parish is in the presbytery of Garioch, and
synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Crown. Stipend,
£225 15s., with a glebe of the value of £10 -The
parochial school is attended by about 30 children.
Salary of schoolmaster £30, with £8 fees.
BOWDEN,* a parish in Roxburghshire ; bounded
on the north by Melrose parish ; on the east mostly
by St. Boswells, though partly also by Lang-New-
ton, now annexed to Ancrum ; on the south by
Lilliesleaf; on the west by Selkirk; and on the
north-west by Galashiels. Its greatest length from
east to west is 0 miles. Its greatest breadth from
* In a charter granted by David T. to the abbey of Selkirk,
mention is made of llttthenrletl, which seems to favour the
conjecture of this parifli heinif named after a St, Botkah\ or
Ilfitlwin, and the site of hi* tower is still pointed out near the
village. Vet the name may lie derived from n tttti. or ftettn in
tlie bow or curve of a small rivulet, where the church is said
to have once sluod. — Old Statistical Account.
south to north is about 4£ miles. The whole su-
perficies is nearly 6,700 acres. The surface is much
varied. One of the Eildon hills, and one-half of
another, are in this parish. These hills present
three conical summits springing from one broad
and elevated base. Sir John Leslie estimated their
altitude at 1,364 feet, above sea-level. Their situa-
tion in a flat country, more than their height, gives
them an imposing aspect, and they are seen at a
great distance. Some parts of them also being
covered with a kind of red stone, without a pile of
grass, present a singular and striking- appearance.
The rock is chiefly felspar and felspar porphyry;
The highest peak is thickly covered with a little
shrubby plant, the vaccinium'myrtillus. About three-
fourths of the parish have been at one time or
another under the plough ; the other fourth con-
sists of bog, moss, and plantations of fir and forest-
trees. The most extensive plantation occupies the
southern base of the Eildons. The real rent of
the parish, in 1794, amounted to £2,300. It is now
at least double that sum. The valued rent is
£8.030 lis. Scots; of which above one-half belongs
to the Duke of Roxburgh. Towards the close of last
century the wages of a man-servant, in this parish,
were, in addition to his meat, from £7 to £8 ; they
are now from £9 to £10 10s. Maid-servants go"t
£2 10s. and £2 15s. for the summer, and £1 5s.
for the winter half-year ; these wages are now nearly
doubled. There are two villages in the parish, viz.,
Bowden, 3 miles from Melrose, and Midlem or Mid-
dleham, 3J miles from Selkirk. Population, in 1801,
829; in 1831, 1,010. Houses, 191. Assessed pro-
perty, in 1815, £5,813 This parish is in the pres-
bytery of Selkirk, and synod of Merse and Teviot-
dale. Patron, the Duke of Roxburgh. Stipend,
£211 lis. 7d., with a glebe of the value of £15.
Unappropriated teinds, £44 4s. 6d. — The Associate
Synod of Original Seceders have a chapel at Mid-
lem. — There are two parochial schools, one at
Bowden, the other at Middleham, — attended by
about 150 children. The salary of one of the mas-
ter's is £30 ; that of the other £21 6s. 6Jd. ; and
each has about £20 of fees. A vault adjoining to
the church is the burying- place of the ducal family
of Roxburgh. The coffins— 21 in number— are
above ground ; and some of them, by the dates
upon them, appear to have stood upwards of 2U0
years, and are still entire. The remains of a mili-
tary road, with circular stations or camps, supposed
to he Roman, can be traced running nearly north
through the centre and broadest part of this parish,
about a mile to the westward of the church, from
Beaulieu in the parish of Lilliesleaf, to Caldshiels
in the parish of Galashiels. — There was, towards the
end of last century, a strong fortification of its
kind, at llolydeau, or Haliedean, once a residence
of the family of Roxburgh. The court-yard, con-
taining about three-fourths of an acre, was sur-
rounded by strong stone and lime walls, 4 feet thick,
and 16 feet high, with slanting holes, about 30
feet from each other, from which an arrow or a
musket could have been pointed in different di
rections. Upon an arched gateway in the fron'
there was a strong iron gate. Within the court
stood two strong towers, the one of three, the
other of five stories, and each consisting of eight
or ten loilpeable rooms, besides porters' lodges,
servants' hall, vaulted cellars, bakehouses, &c. The
roof and flooring were all of the strongest oak.
This building was mostly pulled down, merely for
the sake ot getting the stones in it to build a
large farm-house and appurtenances at the distance
of 3 miles, though the difficulty of separating these
stones from the lime made them a dear purchase!
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161
BOW
One of the vaults still remains. One stone, pre-
served from the ruins, and now a lintel to the door
of the farm-house at Holvdean, has in the middle
an unicorn's head and three stars, with this in-
scription on either side: — " Feer God. Flee from
sin ; mak to the lyfe everlasting to the end. Dem
Isbel Ker 1530." — About 140 yards from this house,
on the top of a precipice hanging over a deep dell
called Ringan's dean, there had been a chapel or
place of worship, and a burying-ground, as appears
from the number of grave-stones, and pieces of hu-
man bones, which have been dug up in it from
time to time. Hence probably has arisen the name
Holvdean or Haliedean. The greatest curiosity, per-
haps, of its kind in Britain, is a stone dike without
lime, which encloses about 500 acres of this farm,
and has stood more than 300 years, yet is still a
tolerable fence. It has at first been G or 7 feet
high, with capstones. In an old tack, this enclosure
is called, " The great deer park of Haliedean."
BOWER, a parish in the shire of Caithness;
bounded on the north by Olrig, Dunnet, and Can-
nisbay parishes; on the east by Cannisbay and Wick
parishes ; on the south by Wick and Watten ; and
on the west by Hullkirk and Thurso. The name — as
of most places in this country — seems to be derived
from the Danish language, and is said to denote a
valley, or what in Scotch is called a carse. The
parish is 7 miles in length, and 3 in breadth. On a
ridge of rising ground, which almost equally divides
the parish, betwixt Bower tower and Brabster, is
a large stone called Stone Lude or Lutt, perhaps
from Liotus, mentioned by Torfaeus, who is said to
have resided in this neighbourhood. The cairn of
Heather Cow seems to be a monument of Druidical
antiquity. It is situated about a mile south of the
kirk, from which the ground rises by a gradual
ascent, till it terminates in a round top. On this
eminence — which is the highest ground in the parish
— theie is a circular building of stones, about 9 feet
in diameter, and 4 or 5 feet high, ascending by 2 or
3 steps, like a stair, on one side. From it, in a clear
day, we have a view of the general outlines of the
country, of the hills which separate Sutherland and
Caithness, the Strathnaver hills, part of the North
sea and Pentland frith, some of the Orkney isles,
and the entrance into the Murray frith at Riese bav.
The valued rent of the parish is .£2,761 16s. Scots;
the real rent, in 1793, about .£1,500. Population,
in 1801, 1,572; in 1831, 1,615; in IS36, 1,751.
Houses, 230. Assessed property, in 1815, £1,796.
The conversion of services has done much to encour-
age agriculture in this district. In the Old Statistical
Account, published in 1793, it is stated that the prac-
tice here, and generally throughout Caithness, used
to be as follows : — " A proprietor let a certain small
extent of land to his tenants, for which he received
the greater part of his rent in victual, and a very
small acknowledgment in money — specie being then
very rare in the country — in the name of gross rent.
The tenants of this description were bound to pay
the following services : They tilled, dunged, sowed,
and harrowed a part of an extensive farm in the
proprietor's natural possession. They provided a
certain quantity of peats for his fuel, — carried feal
and divot, — thatched a part of his houses, and fur-
nished simmons for that purpose, as well as for se-
curing his corns in the barn-yard, — weeded the land,
— led a certain quantity of midden feal from the com-
mon for manure to his farm, — mowed, made, and
ingath'ered his hay, the spontaneous produce of the
meadow and marshy grounds, — and cut down, in-
gathered, thrashed out in part, manufactured, and
carried to market the growth of his farm. Besides
these services, the tenants paid in kind the following
articles under the name of customs, viz., straw-caz-
zies, which were used as sacks for carrying victual ;
side-ropes, made of hair, for drawing the plough-
halters ; floss or reeds, used for these and similar
purposes; feathers made of heather; straw for
thatch, &c. They also wintered a beast or more
each, according to the extent of his possession, —
paid vicarage, or small teind, meat lamb, wedder,
ban k, hen, and eggs, out of each house, with poultry,
according to the extent of their farms, meat and
teind geese, meat swine, and mill gault. Besides
these flesh-duties, grass farms in the Highlands paid
veal, kid, butter, and cheese, &c. Anil tenants on
the sea-coast paid teind and quatel fish, and oil, out
of each boat belonging to them, and carried sea-ware
for manuring the proprietor's farm. Amongst other
articles of rent, the parsonage, or great teind — be-
ing the tenth sheaf of the tenant's produce — was
also till lately drawn in harvest by the proprietor
in some few places in the country. Thev also,
in general, spun a certain quantity of lint for the
landlady, who likewise had from them a certain
portion of wool annually. All these different pay-
ments obtained generally in the county of Caithness
30 or 40 years ago." — A few years ago there were
found in a moss on the estate of Thura, the bones
of some animals of the ox species, of a size now
unparalleled in this county. The remains were
three feet under the surface, and were in a high
state of preservation. Two heads were found
locked together by the horns, as if the animals
had killed each other. The horns form a graceful
curve, but if distended, measure 5 feet 10 inches,
from tip to tip; breadth of skull across the eyes, 1
foot 6 inches ; one of the ribs measures 3^ inches
at the broadest part, and exceeds 3 feet by little
more than an inch in length ; the largest joint of
the leg-bone measures 9 inches in circumference,
but the bone itself is comparatively short This
parish is in the presbytery of Caithness, and synod
of Sutherland and Caithness. Patron, Sir James
Colquhoun, Baronet. Stipend, ^£191 4s. 6d., with
a manse and glebe. Unappropriated teinds, £132
2s. Chinch built about the middle of the 17th
century; sittings, 441 — Schoolmaster's salary, ±'35
16s. 2Jd., with about .£14 fees. There are three
private schools. Alexander Miller of Thurso mor-
tified .£100 for teaching children in this parish;
and Dr. James Oswald of Glasgow, a like sum
for this and every other parish in Caithness-shire.
BOWLING, a hamlet in the parish of West Kil-
patrick, Dumbartonshire ; at the western extremity
of the Forth and Clyde canal, where it joins tiie
Clyde. It is prettily situated on a narrow strip of
level ground between the finely- wooded hills of Kil-
patrick and the river, vt hich is here still of contracted
limits, but a few hundred yards farther down, after
turning the rocky point of Dunglass, begins to expand
and assume a frith-like appearance.
BOWMONT (The), a stream which rises in the
Cocklaw, and flows in an easterly direction through
the parish of Yetholm into Northumberlandshire,
where it joins the Glen near Kirk-Newton, by which
its waters are conveyed to the Till, a tributary of
the Tweed. The Bowmont and the Glen afford
fine trouting.
BOWMORE, a port in the island of Islay, in
the parish of Kilarrow ; on the eastern side of
Lochindaal, which here forms a spacious but shallow
bay much frequented by shipping. The bay is land
locked, and affords good anchorage in the deeper
water, but is much exposed to the north-west wind
Bowmore is a neat little place, containing about
1,500 inhabitants. It was founded in 1768, and is
well-furnished with shops, and a pier; but there-
BOY
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BRA
oently formed villages of Port Charlotte, and Port
Eleanor, on the opposite side of the hay, have some-
what diverted attention from the older port. The par-
ish of Kilarrow is now not unfrequently called Bow-
more, from the circumstance of the old church at
Kilarrow having been demolished, and the present
handsome parish-church erected at the end of one of
the principal streets in the village of Bowmore. It
is 11 miles south-south-west of Port-Askaig, and 3
south-west of Bridgend.
BOYNDIE, or Boindie, a parish in Banffshire,
bounded by the Moray frith on the north and north-
west; by Banff on the east ; by Ordiequhill on the
south ; and Fordyce on the west. It is 5 miles long,
and from a mile to H mile in breadth. It contains
about 3,000 acres, above one half of which are arable.
The rental of the parish was about £1,200 in 1797.
Assessed property, in 1815, £2,903. Population, in
1801. 1,122; in 1831, 1.501. Houses, 238. About
two-fifths of the population are collected in the sea-
town of Whitehill, which is chiefly inhabited by
fishers. The kinds of fish principally caught here are
cod, ling, and haddocks This parish is in the synod
of Aberdeen, and presbvtery of Fordyce. Patron,
the Earl of Seafield. Stipend, £204 19s. 3d., with
-a glebe of the value of £7- Unappropriated teinds,
£222 8s. Id. Church built in 1773 ; sittings 600.
This district at one time comprehended the parish of
Banff, but they were disjoined about 1634. A por-
tion of the parish, with a population of 252 souls, is
now under' the charge of a missionary officiating at
Ord chapel 'in the parish of Banff. Schoolmaster's
salary, £25 12s. 4d., with about £23 fees, and in-
terest in Dick's fund. Scholars 30. There are two
private schools attended by about 100 children —
There is a chalybeate spring, called the Red well,
in this parish, which, with that of Tarlair in the
•parish of Gam'ery, is so highly valued " that the
farm servants, at the distance of from 30 to 40 miles,
make it a part of the agreement with their masters
that they shall be allowed two weeks in the month
of July or August to attend these wells !" [Sou-
ter's ' View of the Agriculture of Banffshire.' Ellin.
1812, p. 66.] — Boyne castle is romantically situated
on a high perpendicular rock, on the south side of a
deep gloomy ravine through which the river Bovndie
flows : its banks being wooded quite to the water's
edge. This was the baronial castle of the district
called the Boyne, and anciently the residence of the
noble family of Ogilvie, . ancestors of the earl of Sea-
lield. It was deserted in the reign of Queen Anne,
and is now quite a. .ruin. Grose has preserved two
views of it.
BRACADALE, aiparish in the island of Sky. It
is of an irregular .form. The length of the in-
habited , part :.is: about 17 computed miles. The
breadth in one. part is 7> and in other places about
4 miles. , It is intersected by arms of the sea in dif-
ferent directions. The surface; in general, is hilly,
with some level spots adjacent to the sea. The soil
in some parts is fertile. There are no considerable
lakes orrivers, and none that are navigable ; though
there are many rapid waters, which are frequently
attended with inconvenience and even danger to
people travelling from one part of the parish to the
other. The shore is flat in some places, but for the
most part high and rocky. The principal bays, or
harbours are: Loch Bracadale, a good and safe bar-
uour ; Loch-Harport, a considerable branch of Loch-
Bracadale, where vessels may ride with safety ; and
Loch-Eynort, 7 miles south of Loch-Braeadale,
where vessels sometimes resort. To the south of
Eynort, at the distance of 3 miles, is Loch-Brettle,
an open bay, and not a safe harbour. The islands
in this parish arc Haversay, Vuiay, Oransa, and Soa.
These islands are not inhabited, but are onlv pen-
dicles to the different farms on the shore opposite to
them, and afford pasture for cattle during part of
the summer and winter seasons. There are no re-
markable mountains within the parish ; but a con-
siderable ridge of very high and lofty hills runs be-
twixt this parish and the parish of Strath. They
are commonly called the Culinn or Coolin hills, — a
name conjectured by some to be derived from the
famous Cuchulinn, so olten mentioned in Ossian's
poems. See article Coolik. Population, in 1801,
1.S65; in 1831, 1,769. This decrease is attributed
to small lots being thrown into large tacks in the
system of farming now pursued here. Houses, 332.
Value of assessed property, in 1S15, £513.- — This
parish is in the presbytery of okye and synod of
Glenelg. Patron, M'Leod of M'Leod. Stipend,
£158 6s. 8d., with a glebe of the value of £15.
Church built in 1831 ; sittings 516. There is a
preaching-station at Minginish, and an itinerating
Gaelic school. Annual emoluments, £60 from the
royal bounty, and accommodation from the heritor
valued at £20. Salary of the parochial schoolmas-
ter, £28. Scholars average 30. There were, in
1S34, five private schools within this parish, at-
tended by about 130 children. — The natives of
Skye were celebrated for the second sight ; and
Bracadale, of all its wild districts, appears to have
been that in which the supernatural gift was most
Irequent and potent in its manifestations. *' The
traveller," says Lord Teignmouth, ''naturally in.
quires in Bracadale for traces of the second sight,
and may be disappointed when he is informed here,
as. in other parts of Scotland, in general terms,
qualified not a little when investigated, that all the
ancient superstitions of the country have vanished.
Now this statement cannot he admitted. Serious,
imaginative, indolent, solitary in the ordinary condi-
tion of their lot, though social in disposition, fami-
liar with nature in all the changing aspects with
which northern seasons invest it, and with dangers
by flood or fell, the natives of these regions are
peculiarly susceptible of religions impressions. And
unhappily, during many ages, ignorant, or instructed
only in error, they blended with the true faith which
they had received from the missionaries of the gos-
pel, all the absurd poetical fictions derived from the
stock from which they sprang, from Scandinavian in-
vaders, from monks, or the innumerable horde of
impostors, bards, minstrels, seers, and dealers in
second sight, who preyed upon their credulity.
Among this number must be included the criminals
of all classes and conditions, to be found in all
communities, but more especially in those in which,
as in the ancient Highland clanish associations, cer-
tain convenient customs had superseded moral and
legal obligation. These persons naturally encour-
aged a popular creed which furnished a ready ex-
planation of all the mischief, whether theft, pliin.
dering of cattle, parentage, or kidnapping of children,
which was constantly perpetrated, by the suggestion
of d-emoniacal agency ; in short, by multiplying into
a diversity of mischievous beings, ready to do an
ill-turn to any one, that unknown but right well-
known personage — the No-man of Homer, the No-
body of domestic life. That the supposed prodigies
which render these regions objects of superstitious
awe, or of timid curiosity, should have been exag-
gerated by those few travellers who penetrated the
veil of mystery which enwrapped them, may be at-
tributed partly to the credulity of the times in
which they lived, no less than to that of the nations
from whom they received their information, and lo
the wilful imposition practised upon them. The
same motive which formerly stimulated the narration
BRA
Hi
BRA
of tales of wonder, now restrains it, namely, regard
to the estimation of strangers. But the creed of
centuries is not at once eradicated, and it is impos-
sible to converse familiarly with the natives of the
Highlands and Islands of Scotland, whether 'of the
upper or lower classes, by their hearths, or by their
torrents, on their wild moors, or on their stormy
seas, in the season of peril or of repose, of sorrow or
of festivity, without being convinced that they cling,
in spite of education and intercourse with strangers,
to the superstitious delusions, and even practices, of
their forefathers."
BRACH (Loch). See Balmaclellan.
BRACHLA. See Petty.
BRACKL1N, or Brackland (Falls of), a
series of short falls and dark deep linns, formed
by the western branch of the Keltie burn in the
parish of Callander, Perthshire; about li mile to
the north-east of the village. The Keltie rises at
the base of Stuicachroin, flows through a wild glen
between Brackland and Auchinlaich, and falls into
the Teith about li mile below Callander. The falls
are viewed to great advantage from a narrow Alpine
bridge, which hangs suspended at the height of 511
feet above the white foaming pool — as Brac-lynn
literally signifies— into which the Keltie here preci-
pitates itself, over disjointed masses of rock, with a
thundering incessant roar. The tourist should also
note here the magnificent view from the corner of
the larch wood, east of Callander, which he passes on
his way from the village to the falls.
BRACO. See Ardoch.
BRADYV'OOD, or Braldwood, a village in the
upper ward and shire of Lanark, in the parish of
Carluke; 4 miles north-west of Lanark. The great
Roman road, called Watling Street, passes through
this place. The lands of Brad wood belonged to the
ancient castle of Hallbar, but have since been feued
out by the Earl of Lauderdale, and Lockhart of
Carnwath.
BR AE- AMAT, in the shire of Cromarty, though
locally in the shire of Ross ; constituting part of the
parish of Kincardine. It is on the eastern bank of
the river Carron.
BRAEMAR, a district of Marr, in the heart of
the Grampian chain, in the south-west extremity of
Aberdeenshire. It is now parochially united with
the parish of CraThy : which see. The only part
of the forest of Marr which is now used as a red
and roe deer preserve is in Braemar, and belongs to
the Earl of Fife, and Farquharson of Invercauld.
There is upon the estate of Castleton or Castle-
town of Braemar, the ruins of an ancient castle built,
tradition reports, by Malcolm Kenmore for a hunt-
ing-seat. It is on the top of a rock on the east side
of the water of Cluanadh ; and the king having
thrown a drawbridge across the river to the rock on
the opposite side, the parish of Braemar derived its
original name of Ceann-an-drochart — that is, ' the
Bridge-head' — from that circumstance On a little
mount on the haugh of Castleton stands the castle
of Braemar. It was originally the property of Far-
quharson of Invercauld, and given to a second son
of that family as his patrimony. About the end of
Queen Mary's reign, these lands were excambed with
the Earl of Marr for the lands of Monaltry ; and,
soon after his accession to the estate, he built the
present house. King William, after the Revolution,
put some troops into it to keep the country in
awe; but the people sore besieged the garrison,
obliged the troops to retire under favour of 'night,
and, to save themselves from such troublesome
neighbours for the future, burnt the castle. In this
state it continued till 1715, when the Marr estates
were forfeited. About 17'iO, Lords Dun and Grange
purchased from government all the lands belonging
to the Erskine family ; and about 1730, John Far
quharson of Invercauld bought the lands of Castle-
ton from Lords Dun and Grange. About 1748, Mr.
Farquharson gave a lease to government of the castle,
and an enclosure of 14 acres of ground, for the space
of 99 years, at £14 of yearly rent; upon which the
bouse was repaired, a rampart built round it, and
the place occupied by a party of soldiers On the
lauds of Monaltry, on the north bank of the river
Dee, in a narrow pass, where there is not above CO
yards of level ground from the river to the foot of a
steep, rocky hill, stands a cairn, known by the name
of Carn-im-cuimkne, or ' the Cairn of remembrance.'
The military road is carried along the foot of this
hill, and through this pass. The tradition of the
country is, that, many ages ago, the country being
in danger, the Highland chieftains raised their men,
and marching through this pass, caused each man
lay down a stone in this place. When they returned,
the stones were numbered; by which simple means
it was known how many men were brought into the
field, and what number had been lost in action.
Carn-na-cuimhne is the watchword of the countrv-
side here. Every person capable of bearing arms,
was in ancient times obliged to have his weapons, a
bag with some bannocks in it, and a pair of new-
mended shoes always in readiness; and the moment
the alarm was given that danger was apprehended,
a stake of wood, — the one end dipped in blood, and
the other burnt, as an emblem of fire and s.vord, —
was put into the hands of the person nearest to
where the alarm was given, who immediatelv bore
it with all speed to his nearest neighbour, whether
man or woman, who, in like manner, and with equal
haste, bore it to the next village, or cottage; and so
on, till the whole country was raised, and everv
man capable of bearing arms had repaired to the
Carn-na-cuimhne. The stake of wood was named
Croishtarich. " At this day,' —says the writer of
the Old Statistical Account of this parish, from
whom we borrow these details, — " was a fray or
squabble to happen at a market, or any public meet-
ing, such influence has this word over the minds of
the country people, that the very mention of Carn-
na-cuimhne would, in a moment, collect all the people
in this country, who happened to be at said meeting,
to the assistance of the person assailed.''- — Dr. Stod-
dart has pleasingly described the scenery of Inver-
cauld and Braemar, which he approached by an un-
wonted route through the glen of Fishie. " After
crossing," says he, "a few slight eminences, among
which were scattered some poor hamlets, we entered
the deep glen of the Fishie, bounded by lofty moun-
tains, whose sides, for a long distance, were clothed
with firi The last trace of human habitation was a
green, turf-built hut, belonging to the shepherd of
the glen. At the door — for I could not enter on ac-
count of the smoke— I sat to take some refreshment;
and could not but be struck with the mountains,
which, at no great distance to the eastward seem to
bar all further access. Their forms were fantastic ;
and their snowy tops, tinged with crimson by the
rising sun, gave life and beauty to the silent prospect.
On advancing, we found the glen wind to the left,
scarcely affording room to creep along the base of
the rocks, which confined the stream. The moun-
tain masses, though apparently the haunt only of the
eagle, or the roe, had each a peculiar name, many of
which evidently related to a state of maimers and
cultivation very different from the present — thus
Stroan-na-llarin, Craig -na-Caillock, and Craig-na-
Gaur, are the promontory of the queen, the rock of
the old woman, and that of the gouts ; but it is long
since goats" have occupied any great part m the s_v&«
164
BRAEMAR.
tem of Highland agriculture : the term Cailloch is
very commonly applied to the nuns, who have been
still longer abolished ; and history ran scarcely in-
form us what queen it was, who left her name to
these now deserted wilds. After reaching the
heights, we crossed a dreary moor, surrounded by
the tops of some of the highest mountains in Scot-
land, from Cairngorm, on the left, to Scarscoch,
on the right. In this moor are the streams of the
Fishie and the Giouly, flowing different ways: by
descending the latter, we soon reached the glen of
the Dee. This river, receiving several tributary
brooks, becomes of considerable importance, and is
bordered by the fir plantations of Mar lodge, a hunt-
ing-seat of the Earl of Fife's. The vale now opened
with great majesty, presenting a noble assemblage
of mountain forms, which added to the windings
of the river, formed a succession of the most delight-
ful landscapes, as we passed Mar lodge, the Castle-
town of Braemar. and at length reached Invercauld,
the seat of Farquharson, Esq., after a continued
walk of twelve hours. No place, that I have seen
in Scotland, is more characteristically adapted to the
residence of a Highland chieftain than Invercauld,
and few are more judiciously preserved in an appro-
priate state of decoration. The house is a large and
irregular building, more suitable to such a situation
than if its architecture were formally scientific. It
stands on a rising ground, not far removed from the
aank of the Dee, which glides silently and majesti-
cally through the valley. All around are vast birch
woods, and firs, which Mr. Farquharson has planted
in incredible numbers. The mountain, which rises
behind the house, is Craig Leik : those which stretch
in front, like a gigantic amphitheatre, are perhaps
among the loftiest in Britain ; for their height has
never been ascertained. The large mass, to the
northward of east, is topped by the peak of Loch-
na-Gar : below these is the opening of Balloch Buy,
an immense fir wood, among whose shades the fall
of Garwal glitters to the sun. Stretching round to
the south are the wild cliffs and precipices of Craig
Cluny, Scailloch-na-Moustard, aiid Craig Caonich ;
westward, about a mile and a half distant, are the
castle and town of Braemar, backed by Craig Cle-
nch; and further up, the vale is shut in by the vast
mountain screens folding before each other, whilst
above them peer the summits of Ben-y-Bourd, Ben
Vrotachan, &c. Few proprietors have done more,
or with more judgment, toward the improvement of
their estates, both in appearance and in product, than
Mr. Farquharson. Of the ancient royal forest of
Mar he keeps a great proportion in its natural state,
as does the Earl of Fife ; and on both properties the
deer are cherished with great care. There are many
natural woods, but the extent of plantation is still
greater, Mr. Farquharson himself, in the course of a
long possession, having planted no less than sixteen
millions of fir, and two millions of larch. The lat-
ter is newly introduced into the practice of Scotch
plantation, and answers for every purpose, except
i'uel, much better than the fir. Firs, however, ap-
pear tolerably congenial to this soil, and there still
remain some very ancient ones, above 100 feet in
straight height. They were much more numerous ;
but havingbeen injudiciously thinned, the wind forced
its way into the plantation, and in one night laid
most of these veterans low. Much has been said in
dispraise of the Scotch fir. I think the natural beauty
of the individual tree has been greatly undervalued ;
but surely when planted on so broad a scale, their
effect is peculiarly adapted to augment the grandeur
and majesty of these vast hollows. At Invercauld,
as in Glenmore, the mountains seem to be divided by
a dark sea of firs, whose uniformity of hue and ap-
pearance affords inexpressible solemnity to the scene,
and carries back the mind to those primeval ages,
when the axe had not yet invaded the boundless re-
gions of the forest. But the most remarkable of
Mr. Farquharson's improvements are the roads,
which he has carried, in a variety of directions,
through his estate, for purposes both of utility and
of pleasure. They are in all considerably more than
twenty miles ; they are excellently constructed, and
their level so well kept, that you reach, by a regular
progress, the very tops of the mountains, ere you are
well aware of having ascended. Before any of the
roads, public or private, were formed, Invercauld
was much more completely separated from social
intercourse, than at present. A new road has lately
been made, at a considerable expense, nearly the
whole way along the bank of the Dee, to Aber-
deen, which, from the nature of the country, must
afford much fine scenery. This is particularly the
case at the pass of Ballater, near Monaltry, about
five miles below Invercauld. Approaching from
Invercauld, the first object which strikes you, is
the bridge of Coich, an impetuous stream, which
forms a cataract, among wild broken rocks, as it
hastens to join the Dee. About a mile to the
westward stands Mar lodge, a small pile, but ren-
dered considerable in appearance, by the extension
of false wings, connecting it with the offices. It
is seated on a flat, very little above the level of
the river, and backed by a steep mountain, planted
nearly to the top with firs. In its front is a spa-
cious lawn, surrounded with a variety of trees, birch,
aller, willow, &&. The Dee is here crossed by a
long wooden bridge, with stone arches. About a
mile higher up, is another bridge, at the Linn of
Dee, where that river forms a fall, after being con-
fined for above sixty yards, between two rocks, a
very few feet distant from each other. Crossing the
river, I ascended Craig Neagh, a rocky eminence,
where — as in many other commanding spots — .Lord
Fife has built a rude prospect-house. Here you ob-
tain the best view of Mar lodge, with the long
bridge, and the upper part of the glen, terminated
by the summits of Cairn Toul, Glasban iMor, and
Ben-y-Vrotan. Some of these prospect-houses are
decorated with spires, and other ornaments, rather
unsuitable to the magnificence of the natural ob-
jects by which they are surrounded. They serve,
indeed, to diversify the landscape; but where va-
riety is only to be attained by the sacrifice of sub-
limity, a correct taste will deem the purchase too
great. One of the most pleasing scenes belonging
to Mar lodge, is a small hollow, on this side of the
river, called Corry Mulzie. Wandering some time
between lofty, over-arching rocks, which enclose
the course of a brook, you at length reach its fall.
The hanging wood, the shrubs and weeds, the na-
tural, or apparently natural steps in the rock, the
rude seat from which you view it, and the arch
which supports the road above, all together render
this a most picturesque retreat. Not far hence I
observed a Catholic chapel, to which great numbers
of the neighbouring peasantry were resorting. Nor
could a stranger tail to notice the neat cottages
which Lord Fife has built for his tenants: thus en-
deavouring to effect a salutary change in their habits
of life, by the introduction of cleanliness and domes-
tic accommodations. Having resolved to cross to
Blair in At hoi, I was supplied with a guide at Mar
lodge, and set off from thence early in the morning.
This road is marked in the maps, as one which
might easily be travelled by a stranger; but it is, in
j fact, very much the reverse, a great part of it lying
over mountains entirely pathless. Having ascended
part of the Giouly, we turned to the left, up an-
BRA
165
BRA
other small stream, called the Beinac, until it brought
us to the heights. Here we were unfortunately
enveloped in mist, and I began to be in some appre-
hension of missing my way, until my guide dis-
covered a small stream flowing southward into the
Tilt. When we had once reached Glen Tilt, it was
impossible to deviate. Its sides are precipitous, and
scarcely afford room for a horse-path, along the
stream. The whole way is dreary and uncultivated :
nor does any object occur deserving notice — except
a romantic fall on the Tarf, near its junction with
the Tilt — until you reach the Forest Lodge, belong-
ing to his Grace the Duke of Athol. The form and
situation of this building only fit it for a hunting box,
and the scenery around is uninteresting. As you
descend the glen, it assumes a more cultivated ap-
pearance. About two miles from the lodge, several
cottages present themselves, surrounded with birch
wood. Here is a bridge, picturesquely situated : the
rocky banks are prominent, the mountains steep and
lofty, and marked with silver stripes, by the streams,
which run down their sides. After some miles of
similar country, you emerge from this deep glen, and
come at once upon the rich plain of Athol. My walk
this day was about twenty-six miles." — [( Remarks
on Local Scenerv and Manners in Scotland.' Lon-
don : 1801. Vol. I. pp. 163—175.]
BRAE-MORAY. See Edenkeillie.
BRAHAN CASTLE, the principal seat of Mac-
kenzie of Seaforth, in the parish of Urray in Ross-
shire. It is placed nearly in the centre of a beauti-
ful bank, which extends on the north side of the
Conan river, from Contin to Dingwall, rising in a
series of successive terraces from the river. The
road from Inverness to Dingwall, by the head of
Loch-Beauly, runs a little to the east of it. Miss
Spence visited Brahan castle — or Braan castle as she
spells it; — in 1816, but declares herself to have been
very ill rewarded for her trouble. She expected, it
seems, an edifice " possessing somewhat of the mag-
nificence of many of our noble edifices in England,"
instead of which, she says, "I beheld a heavy pile of
buildings, neither modern nor antique, extremely
gloomy, and without the imposing air of gloomy
grandeur which often characterizes ancient fabrics."
[' Letters,' p. 151.] A more recent lady traveller,
Miss Sinclair, writes in a kindlier spirit of the Mac-
kenzie's house and domain, which she pronounces
" worthy of the ancient Seaforth dynasty, being a
massy old edifice of handsome exterior, though
united to a better-half of very disproportioned age
and unsuitable appearance, — the one being vener-
able with declining years, the other very plain, and
exceedingly juvenile." [' The Western Circuit,'
»J. 310.] There are some interesting portraits here,
and a good librarv.
BRAID HILLS, a range of low cultivated hills,
an offset of the Pentland range, lying about 2 miles
south of Edinburgh, behind Blackford bill. Their
most elevated point is about 700 feet above sea-level.
A stratum of petunse runs through them, continued
from a stratum of the same mineral in the Pent-
land-hills. This mineral is similar to the petunse of
the Chinese, and has been employed with success
in the manufacture of British porcelain. Besides
this mineral, petrosilex, terra ponderosa, zeolites,
and agates, 'have been found here in considerable
masses. Several fine specimens of molybdena have
also been picked up. According to one traditional
legend, these hills were the scene of 'Johnie o'
Breadislee's' woeful hunting as related in the old
ballad commencing thus : —
Johnie rose up in a May morning.
Called for water to wash his hands, hands,
And he is awa to Braidi?banks,
To din£ the dun deer donn, dolin,
To dinjr the dun deer duiui.
BRAINSFORD, Briansford, or Bains-
ford, a village in the parish of Falkirk, Stirling*.
shire, contiguous to Grahamston, on the banks of
the Forth and Clyde canal. Part of the inhabitants
are employed at the Carron iron works. It is said
to derive its name from the circumstance of a knight,
named Brian, having been slain here at the battle of
Falkirk.
BRAN (The), a tributary of the Tay, which
issues from the eastern end of Loch Freuehie in the
parish of Dull, flows north-east past Amulree and
through Strath Bran, or Brand, in the parish of
Little Dunkeld, and falls into the Tay a little above
Dunkeld bridge, after a course of about 14 miles.
*' The contrast between the Tay and this river is
very strong. The former is deep, broad, and smooth ;
the latter, turbulent and impetuous, and its bed
composed of rocks, or large loose stones. At the
village of luver, which stands between the Tay and
the Bran, a mill, a woody island, and a bridge of two
arches over the latter river, form a very picturesque
landscape. Proceeding up the banks of the Bran,
we reach an extensive enclosure, laid out as a gar-
den, with walks that wind through the shrubberv
and wood. One of these leads to a small build-
ing, where the guide introduces us into a circular
vestibule, and suddenly throws open, with a pullv,
the door of an elegant inner apartment, the far-
ther end of which is one large bow window.
Through this window, a noble cataract, so close,
that it wets the glass with its spray, and a stretch
of the river, for 200 or 300 yards, tumbling through
a rocky bed, in one continued rapid, burst at once
on the eye 1 The window was formerly composed
of different coloured panes, but this childish device
has been corrected. The Bran continues struggling
among rocks, as we quit the enclosure, and a little
above it reach the Rumbling bridge. This is a single
arch, thrown across the mouth of an hideous chasm,
where the rocks almost unite at top, and through
which the river, after being precipitated from an
height nearly level with the bridge, runs at the
depth of SO or 90 feet. The immense masses of
shapeless rock — one of which lies quite across the
chasm, and conceals the lower part of the fall — .
the disorder in which they are grouped, the roar-
ing of the water, and the gloom of the narrow fis-
sure through which it flows, form, all together, a
sublime and terrific scene. In returning from the
Rumbling bridge we may choose various paths; and
indeed a stranger might employ several days, with
pleasure, in following the different walks among the
hills. Though these are mostly embosomed in wood,
we come every five or ten minutes to some interest-
ing spot. We are either led under lofty projecting
precipices, or to some commanding eminence, or
opening of the trees, which offers the lull prospect
or partial glimpses of the valley below. Two
scenes, in the course of the walk, cannot fail to
arrest the particular notice of a stranger. One is
in the gully, or ravine, which divides the two
summits of Craigie Barns, tiere vast fragments of
mis-shapen rock, which seem to have been rent
from the cliffs, that shoot to an awful height on the
hill above, are thrown together, in a rude and stu-
pendous confusion. Spots of heath, brush-wood,
and wild plants, are interspersed, to which a few
laurels and flowering shrubs have been added, anil
a clear rivulet tonus various waterfalls, as it tinkles
through the crevices. At the lower part of this
singular mass, an irregular cave, formed by one of
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166
BRE
the large blocks lying across several others, has
been converted, with a little aid from art, into a
grotto or hermitage, one fissure serving for a win-
dow, and another for a vent. When here, a stranger
should not omit to follow the path that leads along
the bottom of the cliffs, which, with the screams of
kites and other ravenous birds flying perpetually
across them, are wild and terrific. The other scene
I recommended to notice, is a lake, at the foot of
the same mountain. It is nearly of an oval form,
and so closely and completely sheltered by the hill,
which rises from its margin on one side, and on the
rest, by the thick woods in which it is embosomed,
that its surface is almost always smooth as glass.
On the bank next the mountain are scattered a few
cottages, whose white walls make a fine contrast
with the dark green woods. From the opposite
bank, the view of this scene is highly picturesque.
The still and tranquil lake, the mountain rising over
it, covered with wood and grey precipices of rock,
the white cottages, and the picture repeated in the
water, form a peaceful and pleasing landscape. On
the whole, Dunkeld seems a choice spot for the
painter. The sublimity of the mountains, the ex-
tent of the woods, the noble size of one river, the
wild romantic appearance of the other, the large
Gothic ruins, and the genial and sheltered beauty
of the low grounds, when taken separately, may,
perhaps, be equalled, but I have never elsewhere
seen them so admirably combined." [' Stoddart's
Remarks.' Vol. II. pp. 191—194.]— Mr. Gilpin
speaks of this scene as the most interesting of the
kind he ever saw. " The whole scene and its ac-
companiments," he observes, " are not only grand,
hut picturesquely beautiful in the highest degree.
The composition is perfect, but yet the parts so in-
tricate, so various, and so complicated, that I never
found any piece of nature less obvious to imitation:
it would cost the readiest pencil a summer's day to
bring off a good resemblance."
BRANDANES, a name given by some ancient
writers to the natives of Bute. Thus Wyuloun,
speaking of the disastrous battle of Falkirk, says:
The Scnttis thare Mayne war in that stoiire.
Thare Jh'in Stwart a-pnn fute,
Wyth hyjn the Brarainmjjt thare of Enle,
And the £enti'-men of Fyf
Wyth Makdutt, thare tyot the lyft
Cronykil, B. viii. c. 15, v. 14.
This might almost seem a translation of the language
of Arnold Blair, chaplain to William Wallace. " In-
ter quos de numero nobilium valeutissimus miles
Dominns Johannes Senescallus, cum suis Br'andakis,
et Comes de Fyfe Macduffe, cum ejusdem incolis,
penitus sunt extincti." [Relationes A. Blair, p. 2.]
— " In this unfortunate battle were slain, on the
Scottish side, John Stewart of Bute, with his Bran-
dans; for so they name them that are taken up to
serve in the wars forth of the Stewart's lands."
[Comment, in Relationes, p. 36] The term has
also been extended to the inhabitants of the isle
of Arran. " Brandani, — ita enim ea aHate ineoke
Arain et Boitte insularum vulgo vocabantur."
[Boeth. Hist. Fol. 330.] The term has been un-
derstood as denoting the military tenants holding of
the Great-steward. Of these 1,'2C0 are said to have
followed Sir John Stewart to the battle of Falkirk.
Bowyer denominates the Brandani de Botha, or
Brandanesof Bute, "nativi homines domini sui Ro-
berti Stewart;" and quotes some monkish Latin
rhymes, composed in honour of these faithful ad-
herents : —
Tales Brnndnni rex roeli suseipe sanos j
Ex quibus ornaotur, &c.
Still we find nothing as to the reason of the name.
The only probable conjecture we have met with is
that of the accurate D. Macphersnn : — " The people
of Bute, and, I believe, also of Arran, perhaps so
called in honour of St. Brendan, who seems to have
given his name to the kvie between Arran and Ken-
tire." This Brandan, or, as the name is more com-
monly written, Brendan, was a companion of St.
Columba, who held him in great veneration for his
piety. He died A. D. 577. The parish of Kilbrandon,
in Lorn, seems to retain his name. It is probable,
that the inhabitants of Bute and Arran might be
thus denominated, from the idea that they were pe-
culiarly under the guardianship of St. Brendan.
Were we assured of the sufficiency of the authority,
on the ground of which the learned Camden has as-
serted that this worthy had his cell in Bute, we
could not well hesitate as to the origin of the ap-
pellation.
BRANDIN (Pass op). See Awe.
BRANXHOLM, or Branksomk, the ancient
seat of the Dukes of Buccleugh, in the parish of
Hawick and shire of Roxburgh ; about 3 miles front
Hawick, on a steep bank north of the Teviot. The
only relic of the original castle is part of a square
tower which is connected with the present building.
The house, as appears by an inscription, was finished
in 1574, the old castle having been destroyed by
order of Queen Elizabeth, who had been provoked
by the Border forays of the then knight of Buc-
cleugh, and by his unshaken attachment to the cause
of Queen Mary. This place has often been cele-
brated in song. Allan Ramsay has dedicated one of
his best songs to " The bonny lass of Bianksome ;"
and Sir Walter Scott has consecrated the name for
ever in his immortal pages. — In the month of Sep-
tember 1S39, this place was selected with great taste
and judgment by the tenantry of the Duke of Buc-
cleugh for the scene of an entertainment to his Grace.
The pavilion which was erected on the occasion was
constructed in the form of an ancient baronial hall;
It was 101 feet by 70, and was seated to contain up-
wards of 1,000 persons. It was festooned with scar-
let drapery, and the pillars were made to represent
veined marble. Three large chandeliers hung from
the roof, and small ones were attached to each
pillar; there being upwards of 500 lights altogether
in the hall. Over the chair was a buck's head
with magnificent branching antlers; above it was
suspended a star illuminated with variegated lamps;
and above these was painted the ancient war- cry
of the clan, ' Bellenden ;' and above this again, in
letters of gold, the generous maxim of his Grace's
conduct — " Live and Let live." — The dinner caused
great excitement throughout the whole of his
Grace's extensive estates. Representatives were
there from Dumfries-shire, from Liddesdale, from
Mid-Lothian — and even the few fishermen of New-
haven, who rent his Grace's fishing-grounds, sent
a deputation to grace the festival. See Hawick.
BREADALBANE, a very extensive district, on
the north-west side of the county of Perth, being
about 33 miles in length, and 31 miles in breadth.
It is mountainous and rugged, lying among the
Grampians; and is bounded on the north by Loch,
aber and Athole; on the south by Strathearn and
Menteith ; and on the west by Lorn, Knapdale, and
Loehaber. It gives the title of Earl to a branch of
the ancient family of Campbell Sir John Campbell
was created Earl of Caithness in 1677; but, in 1681,
that title, on a claim and petition, being allowed by
parliament to be vested in George Sinclair, who
was the 6th Earl of Caithness, Campbell was in.
stead thereof created Earl of Breadalbane, with pre-
cedence according to the former patent. The Earl
of Breadalbane is the chief proprietor. His estate
ERE
167
BRE
commences 2 miles east of Tay bridge, and extends
to Easedale, in Argyleshire, a stretch of 100 miles,
varying in breadth from 3 to 15 miles, and inter-
rupted only by the property of three or four pro-
prietors who posses? one side of a valley or glen,
while Breadalbane has the other. In 1793-4, the
Earl of Breadalbane raised two fencihle regiments
amounting together to 2,300 men, of whom 1,600
were obtained from the estate of Breadalbane alone.
In the extreme point of this district lies Loch Lyon,
whence the Lyon river flows through a sinuous val-
ley, till it falls into the Tay. In the centre of the
district lies Loch Tay, an inland lake about 16 miles
long, surrounded by splendid natural scenery. See
Loch Lyon and Loch Tay. The high hills — of which
Benlawers is the chief — are mostly composed of a
grev granite, containing beautiful crystals of scheorl.
There is a copper mine at Aithra, and a lead mine
was formerly wrought at Tvndrum. A mountain
near Loch Doeliart contains steatites or rock soap.
Peat-moss is found in abundance, and is the only
fuel of the country. Towards the beginning of last
century, the people of this district were adverse to
industry; indeed the danger they were constantly
exposed to from the incursions of lawless banditti
was a great obstacle to the improvement either of
the land or their condition. Breadalbane, and even
the whole county of Perth, so late as the year 1745,
were obliged to submit, either to be plundered, or to
pay hlack mail, as the price of their security.. Lord
Breadalbane, who had more spirit than submit to
these conditions, generally kept up a small army of
militia for the defence of the tenants on his estates.
The act of parliament, however, which abolished
hereditary jurisdictions, and vested the power and
punishment in stronger hands, soon put an end to
these depredations; and since that period the people
have become industrious, and their condition has
much improved. Kenmore, Killin, and Clifton, are
the principal villages. Breadalbane has good roads
and bridges, rendering the communication more easy
than could well be supposed in so mountainous a
country. — Hugh Cameron, who died in 1817, at the
extraordinary age of 112 years, though an individual
moving in the humblest rank was one of the greatest
benefactors to this district, of Perthshire. This
singular character was bred a millwright. After
acquiring a knowledge of his business, he settled at
Shiain of Lawers, where he built the first lint-mill
that ever was erected in the Highlands of Scotland.
Before his time only the distaff and spindle were
used for spinning lint and wool in this part of the
country; and he was not only the first who con-
structed spinning-wheels and jack-reels in Breadal-
bane, but likewise the first who taught the people
there how to use them. The number of lint-mills
afterwards erected by him throughout the Highlands
cannot be reckoned at less than a hundred : in short
almost all the lint-mills in the Highlands of Perth-
shire, and many in the counties of Inverness, Caith-
ness, and Sutherland, were of his erecting; he also
constructed the first barley-mill that was built upon
the north side of the Forth, for which he was highly
complimented by Maca Ghlasarich, — Campbell, the
bard, — in a verv popular song, called * Moladh di
Eobhan Camashran Muilleir lin,' that is, A song in
praise of Hugh Cameron, the lint-miller. Though
he could oidy be called a country-wright, he was
a man of uncommon genius, of great integrity, and
of a very shrewd and independent mind.
BRECHIN,* a parish in the shire of Forfar;
* Snme imagine this name to be derived from the Gaelic
brncckin, which signifies 'fern;' but this seems not very pro.
bable, as that plant is by no means abundant in the parish.
Others, witii more probability, trace its origin to the word
bounded by the parishes of Strickathrow and Men-
muir on the norfh; by Dun on the east; by Farnwell
on the south ; by Aberlemno on the south-west ;
and by Caraldstone on the west. It extends about
7i miles from east to west; and, towards the west
side, is nearly as broad from north to south. Its
superficial area is 15.840 acres. It rises gradually
on the north side of the South Esk, and to a greater
height on the south side. The soil is rich and fer-
tile, especially on the north side of the river, and
contiguous to it on the west. The high grounds on
both sides of the river are rocky. The low grounds
are occasionally overflowed by great inundations.—
In the northern part of the parish are the remains of
a Danish camp. — Brechin castle, the seat of Lord
Panmure, is built on the site of the old castle, on a
perpendicular rock overhanging the South Esk, half
a mile south of the town. It sustained a siege of
twenty days in 1303 by the English under Edward
I.; and, notwithstanding every effort to compel
the besieged to surrender, held out, until the gov-
ernor, Sir Thomas Maule, was killed by a stone
thrown from an engine, when the place was instantly
given up. A descendant of this brave man was, in
1 616, created Lord Maule of Brechin and Earl of
Panmure. These titles were forfeited in 1715, but
restored at the coronation of William IV,, in the
person of the Hon. William Ramsay Maule, created
Lord Panmure and Navar On the 5th of Julv,
1572, Sir Adam Gordon of Auchindown, who was
of the queen's party, and was besieging the castle
of Glenbervie, hearing that a party of the king's
friends were in Brechin,, came upon them by sur-
prise in the morning, and cut off the whole party.
Another battle was fought in this neighbourhood,
between the Earls of Crawford and Huntly, on the
18th May, 1452, when the former was defeated, and
the latter did James II. very essential service. This
battle is called the Battle of Brechin, though the
spot on which it was fought is not in the parish, but
a little to the north-east of it, on the road leading
to the North Water bridge. — Maitland, author of the
histories of London and Edinburgh ; Dr. Gillies, the
historian of Greece ; Dr. Tytler, the translator of
Callimachus ; and his brother James Tytler, who
had so large a share in compiling the * Encyclopaedia
Britannica' and other works, were natives of this
parish Population, including that of the burgh, in
1801, 5,466; in 1831, 6.508, of whom 5,060 were in
the burgh. Houses 900. Assessed property, in
1815, £20,062. Real land rental about £14.000
This parish is in the presbytery of Brechin, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown.
It is a collegiate charge. Stipend of 1st minister
£292 5s Id., with a glebe of the value of £20;
of the 2d minister, £340. Unappropriated teinds
£704 lis. 4d. The parish-church, which is in the
centre of the burgh, was built in 1808; sittings
1,511. A new church was finished in tbe City
road in June,. 1836, at a cost of £1,100; sittings
864. Stipend £160 An Episcopalian congrega-
tion has existed in the town of Brechin ever since
Episcopacy was established in Scotland. Chapel
built in 1809; repaired in 1830, at an entire expense
of £1,150; sittings 300. Stipend £100. — Tbe
United Secession church has two congregations
within the town. The 1st of these was formed in
1765, in which year their church was built. Sittings
573. Stipend £100. The 2d was established in
1800. Church built in 1802-3; sittings 400. Sti-
pend £90, with manse and garden. — A Relief con-
brne, which signifies, tbe declivity of a bill, and is rndeed very
descriptive of the local situation of tbe touu of Brechin — whence
tbe name of the parish is derived— ou the sloping bauk of the
South Esk.
168
BRECHIN.
gregation was established in the town of Brechin in
1830. Stipend .£100 An Original Seceder con-
gregation was established in 1765. Church built in
1821; cost £700; sittings 400. Stipend £101. By
a recent census taken by the session-clerk, it was
estimated that in a total population of 6,502, there
were 3,944 in connexion With the Establishment,
and 2,316 belonging to other denominations, within
this parish There are nine schools in the parish,
besides three or four gills' schools. Parochial school-
master's salary £34 4s. 4d., with about £70 fees.
Pupils 180. The other schools were attended Srj
1834 by about 500 children.
Brechin, a royal burgh in the above parish,
anciently an episcopal see, and once the county-
town, is finely situated near the centre of the par-
ish, on the left bank of the Esk, at the distance of
8 miles from where it falls into the sea at Mon-
trose; 12i miles north-east of Forfar; 25 south-
west of Stonehaven, 26^ north-east of Dundee, and
83^ from Edinburgh. Population, in 1801, 5,466;
in "1821, 5,906; in 1831, 6,508. The principal
street is about a mile in length, extending southward
to the bridge over the river. Towards the east and
south are the Upper and Lower Tenements of Cald-
hame, as they are called, which are two streets of
considerable length, but independent of the burgh,
being without the royalty, but within the parlia-
mentary boundary. Some parts of the main streets
are very steep ; yet Brechin, on the whole, is a well-
built town, and contains a considerable number of
good houses. The streets are lighted with gas, and
the town is well-supplied with water. An anony-
mous rhymester tells us:
" The finest view of Brerhin may he got
From a soft rising ground beyond the bridge.
Where you may see the county every spot,
And the town rising up a sudden ridge ;
Tiie castle, old cathedral, and what not.
And tlte spire's griffin miuish'd to a midge."
It was formerly walled round, and some relics of the
gates were in existence till very recently. It has
been twice devastated by fire, — by the Danes in
1012, and by the Marquis of Montrose in 1645. A
bishopric was founded here, by David I., in 1150,
and liberally endowed. The revenues of this see
were, in 1561, as follows: Money, £410 5s. ; wheat,
11 bolls; bear, 61 ch. 5 bolls; meal, 123 ch. 3 bolls;
horse-corn, 1 ch. 2 bolls; salmon, 3 barrels; capons,
11A doz. ; poultry, 16 rioz. and 10; geese, 18. Add
to this money of teinds £241 6s. 8d. " We have
already hinted," says Headrick in his ' Agricultural
Report on Forfarshire,' "the strong probability that
the places which were occupied, first by the Culdees,
and afterwards by bishops and mitred abbots, had
previously been consecrated in popular estimation
as the chief seats, or, in more modern language, the
cathedral churches of Druidism. However this may
be, it seems certain that this place was a seat of the
Culdees, who had established schools and seminaries
of such learning as was in fashion in their time, long
before bishops, mitred abbots, or monastic institu-
tions, such as afterwards prevailed, were known in
this country. The first origin of the town seems to
have been houses for religious persons, contiguous
to the cathedral. The revenues of ecclesiastics he-
ing accumulated and expended here, and the place
being a general resort from religious motives, would
induce tradesmen to settle, with a view to supply
such articles of manufacture or of commerce as
were then in demand." — The Cathedral-church of
St. Ninian, supposed to have been founded by
David I., was a stately Gothic fabric, 166 feet long
and 61 broad, the roof supported by two rows of
pillars and arches. The eastern end was sadly
devastated at the Reformation; but the building in
fact appears never to have been completed. The
present parish-church occupies the west end of the
cathedral. At the north-west corner is a square
tower, with a handsome spire 128 feet high. — At
the south-west corner is one of those round towers,
probably of Pictish origin, of which this and an-
other at Abernethy are all the specimens that
remain in Scotland. See Abernethy. The tower
of Brechin is a circular column of great beautv and
elegance, 80 feet high, with a kind of spire or
roof rising 23 feet more, m:iking the whole height
103 feet, while the diameter over the walls at the
base is only 16 feet. The building consists of 60
courses of stone, not very regular, however, some
of them measuring 21, and others only 9 inches in
thickness. The fabric seems to have sustained
very little injury from the lapse of years. For-
merly, when the bells of the church — now trans-
ferred to the square tower — were fixed in it, there
was a series of platforms erected in it, which were
ascended by ladders. The door of entrance is
about 6i feet from the ground, 2 feet wide, and
6 feet high ; the sides are formed of a block of
granite ; nearly in the middle of each stands a
human figure on a kind of bracket; the lintel is a
block of granite cut into a semicircular arch; over
the centre stands another figure in a different drapery
from the other two. The sole is one block of stone,
on each side of it are the figures of two animals
with long claws and tail ; that on the left hand
seemingly in the act of devouring something. The
whole entrance is ornamented with a border of dia-
mond figures. A drawing and description of this
singular monument is given in the 2d volume of the
' Archaeologia.'* Tradition ascribes the erection of
this building to the Picts. It is somewhat off the
plumb-line, and has been observed to vibrate in
high winds. In a lane at the back of the town
are some remains of the ancient chapel of Maison
Dieu, founded by William de Brechin, in 1256, and
confirmed by James 111. in 1477. The town-
house is a respectable edifice erected in 1789.
Brechin possesses a dispensary and a savings bank.
— There is an academy in Brechin, the master of
which is appointed by the magistrates ; he has a
salary of £8 17s. 9(1. a-year, and a free bouse.
Government has also been in the practice of giving
to him the appointment of ' Preceptor of Maisou
* Pennant says of these singular buildings: "Some think
them Pictish, probably because there is one at Abernethy,
the ancient seat of that nation ; and others call them Danish,
because it was the custom ol the Danes to give an alarm
in time of danger from hiLih places. But the manuer and sim-
plicity of building in early times of both these nations was
such as to supersede that notion'; besides, there are so many
specimens left of their architecture as tend at once to disprove
any conjecture of that kind. The Hebrides. Caithness, and Knss-
shire, exhibit reliqties of their buildings totally different. They
could not be designed as belfiies, as they are placed near the
steeples of churches infinitely more commodious f>r that end;
nor places of alarm, as they are oflen erected in situations unfit
for that purpose. I must therefore fall into the opinion of the
late worthy Peter Collinson, that they were inctiisoritr, et arcti
inclusoiii ergastula, the prisons of narrow enclosures ; that
they were used for the confinement of penitents, some perhaps
constrained, others voluntary; Dunchad o' Braoiu is said to
have retired to such a prison, where he died a. d. 9S7. The
penitents were placed iu the upper story; after undergoing
their term of probation, they were suffered to descend to the
next — in all 1 have seen there are inner abutments for such
floors; after that they took asecond step; till at length, the time
of purification being fulfilled, they were released and received
again into the bosom of the church. Mr. Collinson say;, that
they were built in the tenth or eleventh century. The re-
ligious were in those early times the best architects, and reli-
gious architecture the best kind. The pious builders either
improved themselves in the art by their pilgrimages, or were
foreign monks brought over for the purpose. Ireland being the
land of sanctity — putrid sanctorum — the people of that country
might be the original inventors of these towers of mortification.
They abound there, and in all probability might be brought into
Scotland by some of those holy men who dispersed themselves
to all parts of Christendom to reform tuankiud." — Second Tour
in Scotland, in Kerr's cdn, p. 43o.
BRE
169
BRE
Dieu,' which office is the only remnant of that an-
cient establishment ; and he draws the revenues
attached to it, arising from the rents of certain
houses which are worth about .£37 a-year. The
parish-school within burgh is united with the aca-
demv. The master is paid in the same way as other
parish-schoolmasters ; and the magistrates have a
voice in his election, along with the minister and
heritors of the parish. His salary from the parish. is
£34 4s., and he receives .£10 from the town, in lieu
of a house and garden. In 1826 and 1S27 there was
a subscription of about £300, for the purpose of
providing a third or assistant teacher; and this sum
being given to the town, they pay £25 a-year to a
third teacher who assists the parish-schoolmaster.
The fees are regulated by act of council, passed in
1809, and are very moderate. The average num-
ber of scholars at the academy is stated at '220.
There are several private teachers in town. It ap-
pears that 200 merks yearly were mortified, at a
very remote period, to the rector of the grammar-
school- This sum is under the management of the
magistrates ; and the interest of it forms part of the
salary paid by them to the master of the grammar-
school. The public schools now occupy the lower
floor of an elegant Gothic building of two storeys,
erected in 1838 at the expense of Lord Panmure.
The second door is devoted to the Mechanics' insti-
tution, which was founded in 1835.
Brechin was formerly governed by a provost, 2
baillies, a dean of guild, treasurer, hospital-mas-
ter, and 7 councillors; and joined with Aberdeen,
Arbroath, Montrose, and Bervie, in sending a mem-
ber to parliament. It is now governed by a provost
and 13 councillors, and unites with Arbroath, Bervie,
Forfar, and Montrose in returning a member. Small
debt courts are held at Brechin on the 3d Tuesday of
January, March, May, July, September, and Novem-
ber. The value of the burgh-property was, in 1832.
£13,935; the town-house and school might be valued
at about £S30 more. The revenue arising from these
subjects was £440, and from customs, dues, &c, £281 ;
making a total of £721 ; while the expenditure was
£70i). The town's debts at the same period amounted
to £3,284. In 1838-9, the corporation revenue
amounted to £816. In 1793, the income was £268,
and the debt £614. The burgh was at one time
possessed ol about 1768 Scotch acres of land, the
greater part of which was feued out prior to 1770.
There are six incorporated crafts and a guildry.
Total number of burgesses about 300. The parlia-
mentary constituency in 183y was 232 ; municipal,
191. The trade of the place is chiefly confined to
the manufacture of osnaburghs, sailcloth, and brown
linen, which is carried on to considerable extent.
The number of looms employed on linen fabrics in
1S38 was 870, having increased about one-third since
1824. About a third of the produce is for the
French market. Canvas weavers earn from 9s. 6d.
to 10s. a- week; but the average of all the looms
is at present only 5s. 8d. There are three flax
spinning-mills here, extensive bleaching-grounds, a
porter brewery, and two distilleries. The country
around exports a considerable quantity of grain
through the port of Montrose. The British Linen
company and Dundee Union bank have branches
here. There are weekly markets on Tuesday — A
great fair for all sorts of bestial is held on the 2d
Wednesday in June, on Trinity or Taruty muir,
being the name of an extensive tract of waste ground,
about a mile to the north of the town, which is
reserved for holding this fair. Another fair, to-
wards the end of the same month, is held upon the
streets of the town, and there are other three mar-
kets held on the muir in the months of April,
August, and September. It has often been pro-
posed to open a communication between Brechm
and the sea, by means of a navigable canal. OnTv
about 4 miles of cutting would be necessarv down
to the head of the basin of Montrose, and the lock-
age to raise vessels up to the lower part of the
town would be very inconsiderable. This would
combine the advantages the town derives from being
in the heart of a fertile country, with those arising
from a sea-port.
B RES SAY, or Bressa, one of the Shetland isles.
It is about 4^ miles in length, and 3 in breadth ;
and lies to the eastward of the mainland, from
which it is separated by Bressay sound. On the
south-east side of it lies the small island of Noss ;
which see. Until the year 1833, the islands of Bres-
say and Burra, and the district of Quarff, with the
lesser islands of Havera or Hevra, House, and Papa,
constituted a united parish, the population of which,
in 1801, was 1,330; and, in 1839, 1,699. Houses in
1831, 299. Assessed property, in 1815, £15. In
May IS33, the district of Quarff — which is on the main-
land— with the islands of Burra, House, Papa, and
Havera, having a population, it was calculated in
1837, of 856, were erected into a separate parish.
See Quarff. The stipend of Bressay is £153 6s.
8d. ; with a glebe of the value of £1 1. Patron, the
Earl of Zetland Bressay sound is the rendezvous
of the English and Dutch busses employed in the
herring-fishery, and of the whale-ships on their pas-
sage to Greenland and Davis's straits. The sound
has two entries, one from the south and another
from the north. " The south passage," says Ed-
mondston, " is the one at which vessels of a large
draught of water enter, and go out. Nearly at the
middle, where there is a rock, the harbour narrows,
but it widens again into a deep bay. On account of
this rock, vessels almost always moor between the
middle and the south end, where indeed there is
ample accommodation for a great number. The
north passage is very narrow, and a rapid tide runs
through it ; nor are there in it, even at spring-tides,
more than IS feet of water at its deepest point.
There is no dry harbour at Lerwick, as the water
does not fall above 7 or 8 feet; but small sloops
unload, during fine weather, at the wharis. Bressa
sound frequently affords shelter to men-of-war, and,
at a small expense, might be rendered a most useful
station to our North sea cruisers. In 1653 the Eng-
lish fleet, consisting of ninety-four men-of-war, under
the orders of Admirals Deans and Monk, lay some
days in Bressa sound. And in 1665 another fleet,
under the Earl of Sandwich, consisting of ninety-two
sail of men-of-war, spent some time in the same har-
bour." On the outside of the north entry lies a sunk
rock called the Unicorn. When the Earl of Both-
well fled to Shetland, four vessels, under the com-
mand of Grange and Tullibardine, were despatched
in pursuit of him. On the appearance of this squa-
dron, Both well's ships, then lying in Bressay sound,
immediately got under weigh, and sailed out at the
north entry, tallowed hard by their pursuer, whose
flag-vessel, called the Unicorn, struck upon this
rock, which has ever since been called the Unicorn.
— There is a good harbour at Aithova. Lerwick
is supplied with peats from the hills of Bressav,
and the whole of Shetland with slates from its
excellent quarries. The fishing on the coast of
Burra is carried on at a small expense. The fisher-
men set their lines in the evening, and draw them
in the morning. Their winter-fishings have been
sometimes known to exceed their summer's. Th.-y
have upon their coast a fine oyster-scalp, from
which they take large rich oysters. — There are sev-
eral ruins of Pictish castles in this ministry. There
BRI
170
BRO
are also several perpendicular stones, about 9 feet
high, erected no doubt for the purpose of comme-
morating some great event, but of which we have
no account. One of them, in the island of Bressay,
makes an excellent land-mark to ships coming into
Bressay sound. There are the remains of several
chapels in Bressay.
BRIARACHAN, or Brerachan, a river in
Perthshire, which rises in the parish of Moulin, and,
running through Glen Briarachan, forms the Aikdle :
which see.
BRIDE-KIRK, or Brydekirk, a village and
quoad sacra parish in the parish of Annan, 4 miles
north of that town, lying on the west bank of the
Annan, on the road from Langholm to Dumfries,
where it crosses the Annan by a bridge of 3 arches.
The population is about 400. A church was erected
here in 1835, and the district established as a parish
in 1836.
BRIDGE-OF-ALLAN. See Allan.
BRIDGE-OF-EARN. See Earn.
BRIDGE-END, a large village in the stewartry
of Kirkcudbright, on the right bank of the river
Nith, in the parish of Troqueer, so named from its
local situation, at the west end of the bridge of
Dumfries. It is now better known by the name of
Maxwelltown : which see.
BRIDGE-END, a village in the parish of Mel-
rose, where formerly was a large bridge over the
Tweed, said to have been built by David I. in order
to afford a passage to his abbey of Melrose, which he
had newly translated from its ancient site, and also
to facilitate the journeys of the devout to the four
great pilgrimages of Scotland, viz., Scone, Dundee,
Paisley, and Melrose. Gordon has engraved what
remained of it in his time, in his 64th plate. See
Melrose.
BRIDGE-END, a village in the island of Islay,
and parish of Killarrow ; 8J miles south-west from
Poi t-Askaig. It is situate at the northern extremity
of Loch-in-Daal. There is a good road from Port-
Askaig to this place.
BRIDGE-END. See articles Kinnodl and
Perth.
BR1DGETON, a small village in the parish of
Kinghorn, in Fifeshire, immediately adjoining Link-
town of Kirkaldy on the west, and within the par-
liamentary boundaries of the burgh of Kirkaldy.
BR1DGETON, a suburb of Glasgow, in the
Barony parish, to the north of Rutherglen bridge.
See Glasgow.
BRIG HAM. See Birgham.
BRIMS NESS, a headland on the north-western
coast of Caithness, on which is situated Brims castle.
BROAD BAY, or Loch Tua, a capacious bay
on the west side of Lewis.
BROADFORD, a small village and post-station
et the head of Broadford bay, in the parish of Strath,
Isle of Skye. The mountain Ben-na-Cailliach rises
in the neighbourhood.
BROADLAW, a mountain in Peebles-shire; in
the northern part of the parish of Tweedsmuir,
rising 2,741 feet above the level of the sea. It is
of easy ascent, and clothed with rich herbage.
BROADSEA, a small fishing-village in the dis-
trict of Btichan, Aberdeenshire, a little west of the
town of Frazerburgh.
BRODICK. See Arran.
BROLUM (Loch), an inlet of the sea on the
south-east side of Lewis.
BROOM (Loch), a capacious bay, terminating in
a narrow flexuous arm, on the north-western coast of
Ross shire. At its mouth lie Priest and the Sum-
mer islands ; at its head is situated Martin island ;
about half-way up the northern shore of the narrow
inlet stands the village of Ullapool (which see) ;
and at the head of this inlet is the small village of
Loch Broom. The country from Loch Broom north-
wards is destitute of trees; and, in most places, pre-
sents only barren moors and naked rocks.
BROOM (Little Loch), another and a smaller
arm of the sea, immediately south of the above loch,
running in a parallel direction inland, and separated
from it by a narrow ridge.
BRORA (The), a river of Sutherlandshire,
which, with its branches of Strathbeg, and Skins-
dale, springs from the south-east sides of Benchli.
brick, Benvadon, and Beuarmin, in the interior of the
county, and takes a course in a south-easterly oblique
direction, until lost in the Murray frith at Brora.
The Brora and its branches are narrow and rapid.
It runs through a level plain, and forms three lakes ;
the upper lake about a mile long and. half-a-mile
broad, the others of less extent ; the water seems
deep and black, from the dark shade reflected on it
from the mountains, and the rock of Carrol, a bold
precipice upon the southern border of the lake, at
least 600 feet high. The scenery at Gordon-bush is
very romantic and beautiful. From Killend the river
runs rather rapid over a pebbly bed for 3 miles
through Strathsteven to Brora, whence it is rocky
to the sea. In this river the pearl-mussel is found,
and pearls collected. There is a good bed of coal
in the strath of the Brora. The village of Brora, at
the mouth of the river, has a good harbour, and
exports salt and coals. It is 4 miles from Golspie.
BROTHER ISLE, a small island of Shetland,
off the south coast of Yell.
BROTHER (Loch), a small lake in Renfrew-
shire, in the parish of Mearns, about 3 miles in cir-
cumference.
BROTHOCK (The), a small liver in the county
of Angus. See Arbroath.
BROUGH, a fishing-village in Caithness, near
Dunnet-head, where there is a sale harbour, thought
to be one of the best fishing-stations on the coast of
Caithness.
BROUGH-HEAD, or Burgh-head, a promon-
tory on the coast of the Moray frith, in the parish of
Duffus, so named from what was supposed to be
a Danish fort or burgh, at one time distinguishable
on the headland, but which is now generally thought
to be of Roman* origin, and seems to correspond with
the Alata Castra of Ptolemy. It consists of a round
hill about 50 feet in height; guarded by high per-
pendicular sides to the north and west, and rocks
washed by the sea ; while on the south, a trench was
cut into which the sea flowed — It gives its name to
a sea-port village Ling on its south-west side, 8
miles north-west of Elgin, and 18 east of Cromarty.
Population, in 1831, 749. This village is laid out on
a regular plan, and the houses are substantially built
with freestone, and slated. It is the principal her-
ring-fishing station in Moray. There is also a good
salmon-fishery here. The harbour consists of a
basin about 200 yards long and 50 yards wide, the
entrance fronting westwards, or towards Cromarty.
This basin or artificial harbour was completed in
the summer of 1809, and has been found very use-
ful, especially as a station for passage- vessels which
keep up a communication with the Little Ferry in
Sutherland, distant about nine leagues. There is
a chapel-of-ease here in connexion with the Estab-
lishment, and a Secession church. See Duffus.
* Within its limits, a Roman balh was discovered; and, on
the 1 1th of May, 1809, Mr. Anthony Carlisle exhibited to the
Society of Antiquaries of London', a drawing of a bull, taken
Irom a stone found here, obviously of Roman sculpture. An
engraving of it is (,'iveu in the Kith volume of ' Archseologi i,'
p. 3u5. General Roy has preserved a plan and sections of this
station, Plate 33.
BRO
171
BRIT
BROUGHTON, GLENHOLM, and KIL-
BUCHO, a united parish in the shire of Peehles ;
bounded by Kirkurd on the 'north ; on the north-
east and east by Stobo; on the south-east and
south by Drummelzier : and on the west and north-
west bv Culter and Skirling It is about 9^ miles
in length, and 34 in breadth. Of about 20,000
acres, being the supeificial area of this parish, nearly
three-fourths are under pasture. The principal
mountains are Culterfell, Garden, and Chapelgill.
The first of these has an altitude of 2,430 feet.
The Tweed divides the Glenholm division of this
parish from Drummelzier ; and the -Biggar water
skirts the Broughton division of the parish on the
south. The village of Broughton has a population
of about 100. It is 5 miles distant from Biggar,
and forms a stage betwixt Edinburgh and Moffat.
A fair is held here on the 3d of October. The po-
pulation of the three united distiicts was as follows :
ISOi. 1831.
Broughton, 2U
GlMiholm, 242
Kilbuclio, 171
289
2.i9
1S2
Houses. Assessed pro-
pet tu.
49 £ I 599
43 £2.083
See article Kli.Brcno.
027 ,4U
This parish is in the presbytery of Biggar, and synod
of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, Renny of
Danevale. Stipend, .£231 Is. 10d., with a glebe
of the annual value of £64 14s. 9d. Unappro-
priated teinds. £249 lis. 3d. The church, built in
1804, is in Kilbucho ; sittings 500. — There are three
paiish- schools. The salary of the schoolmaster at
Broughton is £32, with about £20 fees. Pupils
50. The schoolmaster at Glenholm has a salary of
£32, with about £12 fees. Pupils 30. The school-
master at Kilbucho has the same salary,, with about
£15 lees. Pupils 40- See articles Glenholm and
Kilbucho.
BROUGHTY FERRY, a handsome village,
chiefly in the parish of Monifieth in Forfarshire, on
the northern shore of the frith of Tay, 4 miles east
of Dundee, and directly opposite Ferry-port-on-
Craig in Fifeshire, with which it has hourly com-
munication, the frith being little more than a mile
broad here. In 1S34, portions of the adjacent par-
ishes of Monifieth and Dundee, comprising this vil-
lage, were united into a quoad sacra parish, with a
population which was estimated, in 1837, at 1,998,
and which, during two or three months in summer,
is augmented by 400 or 500 visitors. A church was
built in 1826; 'sittings 720. Stipend £140. The
United Secession church have also a congregation
here, which was established in 1837. This place is
now much resorted to as a sea-bathing residence dur-
ing summer by the citizens of Dundee and Perth.
That part of the village which lies in the parish of
Dundee, is often called the West ferry ; the other
and more considerable portion — between which and
the former there is indeed a vacant space of ground
— hears the name of East ferry, as well as that
of Broughty ferry. North and west of the sandy-
plain over which most of the houses are spread, the
ground rises with some abruptness. To the east and
south-east, are uneven links, stretching towards
Monifieth. South-east of the village, a point of
land stretches southward into the frith, which it
contracts in width so as to render the ferry across
to File shorter than any other between Errol and
the sea. On this point, named Broughty Craig, yet
stand considerable remains of a fortress, not undistin-
guished in history. The castle — of which, however,
aiot much is left — is a very interesting object, and a
point towards which the promenaders of Broughty
often direct their steps. The first transaction of
importance connected with it was its occupation by
the English, in 1547, after the battle of Pinkie. The
party of English by whom Broughty castle was gar-
risoned, had scarcely secured themselves within the
fortress, when they were blockaded bv Arrau ; who
sat down before it on the 1st of October 1517,
but on the 1st of the following January, hastily
raised the siege. Immediately after his departure,
the English fortified the neighbouring hill of Bal-
gillo, and ravaged great part of the county of Angus.
Archibald, 5th earl of Argyle, hearing of this, hastily
collected a party of his clansmen, and led them
against the English at Broughty, where he sustained
a defeat, as not long after did a numerous body of
French and German troops. On the 20th of Feb.
1550, both the castle and fort were taken by Des
Thermes, who brought against the English in this
quarter an army composed of Scots, Germans, and
French. The works at both places were now dis-
mantled ; and although, at least on the castle, re-
pairs were, perhaps more than once, bestowed, yet
we tind in the annals of subsequent times little of
consequence recorded concerning them.
BROXBURN, a village in Linlithgowshire, in the
parish of Uphall, near the banks of the Union
canal, on a rivulet of the same name. It is on the
middle road between Edinburgh and Glasgow, 12
miles from the former, and 30 from the latter. A
cattle fair is held here on the Friday after the
Falkirk September trvst.
BROXBURN (The), a rivulet in Haddington-
shire, which rises in the parish of Spott, and falls
into the sea at Broxir.outh about i mile east of
Dunbar. In the low ground to the westward of
Broxmouth, Cromwell defeated the Scottish armv
under Leslie. The duke of Roxburgh has a seat here.
BRUAR (The), a small stream in Athole, cele-
brated for the romantic beauty of its cascades It
joins the Garry, a short distance below Pitagowan.
Dr. Garnett, who visited the falls in 1798, thus de-
scribes them : — " From Dalnacardoch we proceeded
to Blair-Athol, distant 1U£ miles. The first half of
our ride was by no means interesting, being among
lumpish hills covered with heath ; but when we ar-
rived within about 5 miles of Blair, the country
began to assume more the appearance of cultivation,
atid we discerned the extensive grounds of the Duke
of Athole covered with wood. About 3i miles be-
fore we reached Blair we passed the small village
Bruar, which takes its name from a turbulent stream,
called Bruar-water, that rolls along its rocky bed
under a bridge. We went up the left bank of this
river, whose channel is the most rugged that can
be conceived ; the rocks which form it have been
worn into the most grotesque shapes by the fury
of the water. A foot-path has lately been made by
the Duke of Athole, which conducts the stranger in
safety along the side of the chasm, where he has an
opportunity of seeing, in a very short time, several
very fine cascades ; one over which a bridge is
thrown, forms a very picturesque object. This is
called the lower fall of Bruar. The water here
rushes under the bridge, and falls in a full broad
sheet over the rocky steep, and descends impetu-
ously through a natural arch, into a dark black pool,
as if to take breath before it resumes its course
and rushes down to the Garry. Proceeding up the
same side of the river, along the footpath, we came
in sight of another rustic bridge, and a noble cascade,
consisting of three falls or breaks, one immediately
above another ; but the lowest is equal in height to
both the others taken together. Each of the upper
breaks is about 50 feet, the lowest 100 : so that the
whole cascade is not less than 200 feet. This is
called the upper fall of Bruar. Crossing the bridge
BRU
172
BUC
over this tremendous cataract, with trembling steps,
we walked down the other bank of the river, to a
point from whence we enjoyed the view of this fine
fall to great advantage. The shelving rocks on each
side of the bridge, with the water precipitating it-
self from rock to rock, and at last shooting head-
long, filling with its spray the deep chasm, form a
scene truly sublime ; the nakedness of the hills in-
deed takes away somewhat from its picturesque
beauty. The poet Burns, when he visited these
falls, wrote a beautiful poetical petition from Bruar-
water to the Duke of Athole, praying him to orna-
ment its banks with wood and shade ; the noble pro-
prietor has been pleased to grant the prayer of the
petitioner, and has lately planted the banks of this
river : the plantation is yet very young, but in a few
years will have a very good effect. No person from
the southern parts of the country, coming to Blair,
should omit seeing the falls of Bruar. It must be
confessed that we saw them to great advantage, on
account of the rain which had fallen during the two
or three preceding days ; the grandeur of the scene
may perhaps he diminished after a long fit of dry
weather. Such a drought does not however often
occur in this part of the country." — Miss Spem-e,
who visited the spot in 1816, says, " By the assist-
ance of art, veiling itself in the modest garb of na-
ture, beauty is now happily blended with that savage
greatness which was the former attribute of the
place. A succession of falls, interrupted by wind-
ings of the waters, projections of the rocks, and re-
cesses where they retire back, leaving fair openings
for the sun and spots of productive soil, give such
constant and fanciful variety to the scene as neither
language nor painting is adequate to convey to the
imagination. The fair creation of the poet's fancy
has, in the meantime, been realized by the noble
proprietor. The shades which he imagined have ac-
tually spiting up, and the melody of his ideal birds
resound from their branches. Flowers, which seem
scattered by the lavish hand of native spring, adorn
every crevice in the rock; and the vegetable soil on
the brink of this turbulent stream affords room for
it variety of trees and shrubs most judiciously-
adapted to the scenery, and which seem to partake of
its wild and unequal character. Nothing can be more
sudden and luxuriant than the growth of the plants
scattered along the abrupt banks of the Bruar. Fed
by a constant though scarce visible shower from the
ascending mist of the successive cascades, — sheltered
from every wind by the rocky walls that surround
them, — and enjoying by the reflection of the sun from
their flinty bed a degree of heat scarce inferior to
that of a hot-house, — the tenderest plants are here
safe and flourishing. The little pastoral huts, in the
form of highland shealings, which are here and
there erected as resting-places in this enchanting
wilderness, are quite in character with the chaste
simplicity of the other decorations. The whole
scene so much resembles, ' the negligence of Na-
ture, wide and wild,' that in a more genial climate
it might be supposed to be merely the result of
abundant moisture and sunshine."
BUUCEHAVEN, a small village in the parish
of Dunfermline, Fifeshire, adjoining the village of
Limekilns,
BRUIACH (Loch), a lake in Inverness-shire,
in the parish of Kiltarlity ; about 2 miles long, and
1 broad. It abounds with trout and char; and there
is a small island in the middle of it.
BRUNSWARK, BrjRNSWARK,or Birrenswark,
a hill in Dumfries-shire, in the north-east corner of
the parish of Hoddam, rising to 740 feet above sea-
level, and famous tor two rectangular encampments
— still very entire — the formation of which is ascribed
to the Romans. From this hill the great military
roads diverge in every direction, through the south-
ern parts of the kingdom. It is 8 miles north-west
of Annan, and commands a fine prospect. On the
north the view is confined, and the country barren ;
to the west, all the valley is washed by the Annan,
and lies open from Moffat to the Sol way frith ; on
the east, you penetrate far into the wilds of North-
umberland, about the heads of south Tyne ; all
the low country of Cumberland lies full before you,
gradually rising from the frith, till the scene termi-
nates in the romantic falls of Keswyck, among which
the lofty Skiddaw, towering pre-eminent, forces it-
self on your attention. The lowering Criffel, on the
Scottish side, shuts up the prospect of the less level
country about Dumfries. The frith of Solway adorns
the middle of the plain, and greatly brightens the
prospect ; appearing near Langholm as a moderate
river, it gradually spreads out to your view ; in some
places sending its waters far into the country, these
seem detached like lakes ; proceeding on, it widens
along the plain, and expands to a sea.
BRUNTISLAND. See Bc-rntisband.
BUCCLEUCH, in the shire of Selkirk, an ancient
parish now comprehended in the parish of Etterick.
It is 13 miles west by south of Hawick. Buccleuch
gives the title of Duke to the ancient and illustrious
family of Scott. In 1663, the Duke of Monmouth,
marrying Anne, Countess of Buccleuch, and assum-
ing her name, was created Duke of Buccleuch, and
the countess was at the same time created Duchess
of Buccleuch.
BUCHAN, a district of Aberdeenshire, extending
along the coast, from the Ythan nearly to the De-
veron, a distance of above 40 miles. In length from
north to south it is about 27 miles, and from west to
east about 28; superficial area 450 square miles.
Population, in 1831,43,306. Inhabited houses 8,937.
It is divided into 21 parishes, of which 13 are in the
district of Buchan Proper, sometimes called Deer;
and 8 are ill what is frequently called the Ellon dis-
trict. The principal elevation is Mormond hill, al-
titude 810 feet. The prevailing rock is granite.
Peterhead and Fraserburgh are the principal towns
within the district. Buchan once formed a county
of itself, and an earldom which was vested in the
chief of the Cummins, until their forfeiture in 1309.
— The reader will find a good account of this dis-
trict, and its agricultural capabilities, in the 3d vol.
of the Prize Essays of the Highland Society.
BUCHANAN,* a parish in the western extremity
of Stirlingshire ; bounded on the north by Perth-
shire and Loch Katrine ; on the west by Perthshire
and the parish of Drymen; on the south by Dum-
bartonshire, from which it is separated by the En-
drick river; and along the whole of its western side
by Loch Lomond. The parish of Buchanan has been
reckoned 20 miles long, and 6 in extreme breadth.
One head-branch of the Forth has its source in the
upper end of this parish, in a small burn which runs
down Glenguoi into Glendow, and by the addition of
several burns in the latter glen, is considerably in-
creased. At the lower end of the glen — which be-
* Buchanan was formerly called Iiiclicailloch, the name (if an
island in Bochlomond, on Which the parish-church stood till the
year 1621, when a considerable part of the parish of Luss— at
that time extending: on this side of the loch— was annexed to
the parish of Iiiclicailloch. S"ine years after this annexation,
the walls of the church in Iiiclicailloch failing, and the people
likewise finding it by no means convenient, especially in
stormy weather, to be crossing" over to the island every Sab-
bath, worship was performed in a church near the house of
Buchanan, which was originally a rliapel-uf-ease to tile parish
of Luss. From this chapel — which was called the chinch or
chapel of Buchanan — the whole united parish came by degrees
to be called the parish of Buchanan. Inckcaillocft signifies
' the Island of the Old Women ;' and was bo called because in
former times there was a nunnery upon it.
BUC
173
BUI
gins at the root of Benlomond, and extends 5 or
6 miles east — it is called the water of Dow, and he-
low that the water of Duchray. See Aberfoyle.
The Endrick, which is the boundary of this parish
on the south, flows in beautiful curves through the
fertile haughs of Buchanan and Kilmaronock, and
falls into the lower part of Loch Lomond. This
river, in the winter-season, when the loch is full,
occasionally covers a part of the lower grounds on
both sides, in the parishes of Buchanan and Kilmar-
onock. It is stated in the Old Statistical Account,
that during harvest, in 1782, the haughs of Endrick
were covered with water, and immediately after,
there came snow and intense frost, so that in some
places people walked on the ice above the standing
corn ! The Grampian hills run through this parish,
and divide the lower from the higher grounds.
There is one pretty high hill in the lower part of the
parish called the Conic hill; but the highest eleva-
tion is Benlomond, in the upper end or the parish.
See article Benlomond. Though Loch Lomond
cannot be said to belong to any one parish, yet as
the parish of Buchanan extends 16 or 17 miles up
the side of the loch, and several of the islands make
a part of it, the greater share of the loch may be
assigned to the parish of Buchanan. See article
Loch Lomond. — In the lower end of the parish, on
a small tributary of the Endrick, is the house of
Buchanan. This place, for many centuries, belonged
to Buchanan of that ilk, and was the seat of that
ancient family, but it has been for some time in the
possession of the ducal family of JMontrose. At
Inversnaid, in the upper part of the parish, there
was a fort built near midway between Loch Lo-
mond and Loch Katrine; the design of which was
to guard the pass between the two lochs. See In-
versnaid— In Craigrostan there are several caves
known by the names of the most remarkable per-
sons who used to frequent them. See article Ben-
lomond. Population, in 1801, 748; in 1831, 787.
Houses, in 1831, 131. Assessed property, in 1815,
.£7,447. — This parish is in the presbytery of Dum-
barton, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron,
the Duke of 'Montrose. Stipend £156 )2s. 8d.,
with a glebe of the value of .£10. The church is
situated about 3 miles from the south-eastern, and 18
from the north-western boundary of the parish. It
was repaired in 1828; sittings 300. The minister
officiates twice a-year at Rowerdennan, and once a-
year at Inversnaid. In 1837, of 124 families in this
parish, 115 belonged to the Establishment — The
parochial schoolmaster has a salary of ±'30. There
is another school in the parish, the master of which
is allowed £15 per annum by the Society for propa-
gating Christian know ledge.
BUCHANDY. See Fowlis (Wester).
BUCHAN-NESS. See Peterhead.
BUCHLY VIE, a quoad sacra parish, disjoined
from the parishes of Kippen and Drymen, in Stir-
lingshire, by authority of the General Assembly, in
1U36. Population of the portion disjoined from
Kippen, 630, of whom 400 was in the village of
Buchlyvie; of the portion disjoined from Drvmen,
400; total 1,030. Church built in 1836; cost £600;
is vested in the ministers of Kippen and Drymen,
and in certain heritors and managers; sittings 352
A United Secession place of worship was built in
the village of Buchlyvie in 1751 ; sittings 554. Sti-
pend £100, with a manse, garden, and glebe The
village of Buchlyvie is 5 miles west of the village of
Kippen, on the road from Stirling to Dumbarton. It
is a burgh of barony, and has five fairs in the year:
viz. on the 2d Tuesdav in February; 2d Tuesday in
March, O. S. ; 20th June; last Tuesday in July,
O. S. ; and ISth November. The greater part of
the inhabitants are dissenters.
BUCK of CABRACH. See Auchindoir.
BUCKHAVEN, a fishing- village in the parish of
Wemyss, in Fife; 2 miles south-west of Leven, and
5i north-east of Dysart. It consists of a groupe of
cottages, apparently scattered at random over a steep
ascent from the shore, and thickly interspersed with
boats, oars, nets, anchors, dungsteads, and the other
accompaniments of a fishing- village. With the ex-
ception of a few weavers, the inhabitants are all
engaged in catching or retailing fish, and are pro-
verbially industrious and expert at their calling.
They have not a few peculiar traits of character and
appearance, and it is said that they are descended
from the crew of a Brabant vessel which was
wrecked on this coast in the reign of Philip II.
Defoe describes Buckhaven as "inhabited by fisher-
men, who are employed wholly in catching fresh fish
every (lav in the firth, and carrying them to Leith
and Edinburgh markets. The buildings are but a
miserable row of cottages; yet there is scarce a poor
man in it; but they are in general so very clownish,
that to be of the college of Buckhaven, is become a
proverb. Here we saw the shore of the sea covered
with shrimps like a thin snow; and as you rode
among them, they would rise like a kind of dust,
and hop like grasshoppers, being scared by the foot-
ing of the horse. The fishermen of this town have
a great many boats of all sizes, which lie upon the
beach unrigged, ready to be fitted out every year lor
the herring-season, in which they have a very great
share." The value of the boats and nets, presently
belonging to this industrious colon}", is supposed to
exceed £20,000. — A United Secession congregation
has been in existence here for half-a-eentury. The
church accommodates 600, and is usually well-at-
tended by the fishermen, excepting about seven
weeks in July and August during the herring -fish-
ery. Salary £110, with a manse and garden. A
new pier and harbour has recently been lorrned here
under the auspices of the Board of Fisheries.
BUCKIE, a considerable fishing-village, and a
quoad sacra parish, recently disjoined from Rathveu
in Banffshire. It is situated at the mouth ot Buckie
burn ; 4 miles east of Speymouth, and 5 west by
south of Cullen. The population of the district, as
ascertained by a census taken by the minister in
1837, was 2,342, of whom 1,026 resided in the vil-
lage of Buckie. A church was built here in 1835,
at a cost of £800 ; sittings 800. Minister's stipend
£80. There is a mineral spring here.
BUDDO ROCK, a dangerous rock off the coast
of Fife, in St. Andrew's bay, about 2 miles from
land.
BUITTLE, a parish on the Solway frith, in the
stewartry of Kirkcudbright; bounded on the north
by Crossmichael ; on the east by the river Urr,
which separates it from Kirkgunzeon and Colvend ;
on the south by the Solway frith; and on the west
by Kelton. Its extent, in length, may be about 8
miles, and 3 in breadth. The surface is unequal, but
the hills are not of great height; they are covered
with verdure, and most of them exhibit marks of
tillage to the very top. The soil is fertile. The
coast abounds with fish of all kinds. Rock crystal,
talc, and spar, are frequently met with in this dis-
trict ; and iron-ore is plentiful — Buittle-castle, on
the west side of the Urr, is a considerable ruin ; the
ditches and vaults which still remain show it to
have been a place of great extent and strength.
When Galloway was an independent state, this was
a considerable fortress ; and it seems to have been
the favourite residence of John Baliol. After be-
BUL
174
BUR
longing to the Baliols, the Cummings, and the
Douglasses, it appears to have become the property
of the Lennoxes of Caillie. It now belongs to
Murray of Broughton, the representative of the
Caillie family. Grose has preserved a view of it.
There is a vitrified fort on the top of one of the
hills. Population, in 1801, 863; in 1831, 1,000.
Houses, in 1831, 164. Assessed property, in 1S15,
£8,554. — This parish is in the presbytery of Kirk-
cudbright and synod of Galloway. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend .£231 6s. 2d., with a glebe of the
value of £20. Unappropriated teinds £312 2s. 5d.
■ — There are two parochial schools, the masters of
which have conjointly a salary of £51 6s. 7d., with
about £'25 fees. There is also a private school.
BULAY (The Greater and the Lesser), two
islets about 2 miles off the southern coast of Skve.
BULLERS OF BUCHAN, a singular groupe of
rocks and sea-caves, in the parish of Cruden, Aber-
deenshire. " Upon these rocks — those of Dun Buy
— there was nothing that could long detain atten-
tion," says Dr. Johnson, "and we soon turned our
eyes to the Buller, or Bouilloir of Buchan, which no
man can see with indifference who has either sense
of danger or delight in rarity. It is a rock perpen-
dicularly tubulated, united on one side with a high
shore, and on the other rising steep to a great height
above the main sea. The top is open, from which
may be seen a dark gulf of water, which flows into
the cavity through a breach made in the lower part
of the enclosing rock. It has the appearance of a
vast well bordered with a wall. The edge of the
Buller is not wide, and, to those that walk round,
appears very narrow. He that ventures to look
downwards, sees that if his foot should slip, he must
fall from his dreadful elevation upon stones on one
side, or into the water on the other. We, however,
went round, and were glad when the circuit was
completed. When we came down to the sea, we saw
some boats and rowers, and resolved to explore the
Buller at the bottom. We entered the arch which
the water had made, and found ourselves in a place
which — though we could not think ourselves in dan-
ger— we could scarcely survey without some recoil of
the mind. The basin in which we floated was nearly
circular, perhaps 30 yards in diameter. We were
enclosed by a natural wall rising steep on every side
to a height which produced the idea of insurmount-
able confinement. The interception of all lateral
light caused a dismal gloom : round us was a per-
pendicular rock, — above us the distant sky, — and be-
low an unknown profundity of water. If I had any
malice against a walking spirit, instead of laying him
in the Red sea, I would condemn him to reside in
the Buller of Buchan. But terror without danger
is only one of the sports of fancy, — a voluntary agi-
tation of the mind that is permitted no longer than
it pleases. We were soon at leisure to examine the
place with minute inspection, and found many cavi-
ties, which, as the watermen told us, went backward
to a depth which they had never explored. Their
extent we had not time to try; they are said to
serve different purposes. Ladies come hither some-
times in the summer with collations, and smugglers
make them store-bouses for clandestine merchandise.
It is hardly to be doubted but the pirates of ancient
times often used them as magazines of arms or re-
positories of plunder. To the little vessels used by
the Northern rowers, the Buller may have served as
a shelter from storms, and perhaps as a retreat from
enemies ; the entrance might have been stopped, or
guarded with little difficulty, and though (he vessels
that were stationed within would have been battered
with stones showered on them from above, yet the
i.'i'Cws would have lain safe in the caverns." In the
neighbourhood is a small fishing-village ; and on an
adjacent crag stands Slaine's castle.
BUNAWE, a village in the district of Lorn, and
shire of Argyle; 13 miles from Dalmally, and 113
west by north of Edinburgh. It is situate in the parish
of Muckairn, at the confluence of the river Awe
with Loch Etive. Here the Lorn furnace companv,
established in 1753, have erected their extensive iron
manufactories ; there is also a considerable salmon-
fishing ; and a quay built on a secure and well-shel-
tered hay. See Ardchattan.
BUNKLE, anciently Bonkile or Bonkle, a par-
ish in Berwickshire, comprehending the ancient par-
ish of Preston ; bounded on the north by Abbey St.
Bathan's and Coldingham parishes ; on the east by
Coldingham and Chirnside ; on the south by Edrom
and Dunse parishes ; and on the west by Dunse, a
detached portion of Longformacus parish, and Ab-
bey St. Bathan's. Measured from near East Brock-
holes to the paper-mill below Chirnside mill, it is
about 5,{ miles from north-west to south-east ; and
its greatest admeasurement from east to west is about
5J- miles. Its general outline is triangular. Bunkle
Edge, a southern ridge of the Lammermoor range,
runs along the north-western side of the triangle,
and rises to the height of about 700 feet in some
points. From the south-eastern side of this ridge a
number of small streams descend to Chirnside bum,
a tributary of the Whitadder, which latter stream
skirts the parish on the south-west and south. Cop-
per has been wrought within this parish, but, as sie
understand, only with very partial success. The
superficial area of the parish is 8,900 Scots acres,
of which about 6,600 are arable. The rental is about
£S,000. The value of assessed property, in 1815,
was £7,722. Population, in 1801, 674; in 1831,
748. Houses 132 This parish is in the presbytery
of Dunse, and synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Pa-
tron, Lord Douglas. Stipend, .-£279 15s. Id. with
glebe of the value of £20. Schoolmaster's salarv,
£34 4s. 4d. with about £26 fees. Pupils, 50.
BURDIEHOUSE, a village in the parish of Lib-
berton, about 3i miles south of Edinburgh, on the
road to Peebles. Its name is said to be a corruption
of iiourdeaux. This place is celebrated for its lime-
kilns, which manufacture about 15,000 bolls of lime
annually. There is an immense deposit of lime-
stone rock here, which has attracted much attention
from geologists, on account of the fossil-remains
contained in it. In 1833, a quantity of the hones,
teeth,- scales, and apparently part of the muscles of
what was conjectured to have been a huge species of
reptile were discovered here: the scales retaining
their lustre, and the bones their laminated and po-
rous appearance. These formed the subject of several
communications to the Royal society of Edinburgh,
by Dr. Hibbert, who, in his earlier papers, described
them as the remains of reptiles. In 1834, at the
meeting of the British association in Edinburgh,
these fossils — which by this time had excited great
interest amongst naturalists — were shown to M.
Agassiz. This gentleman immediately doubted their
reptilian character, and advanced the opinion that
they belonged to fishes, — to that family of fishes
of Ganoid order which he had denominated Sauroid,
from their numerous affinities to the Saurian rep-
tiles, and which have as their living type or repre-
sentative the Lepidosteus. But of the truth or
fallacy of this opinion no positive evidence could
be adduced, for the scales and the teeth had never
yet been found at Burdiehouse in connexion. A
few days afterwards, M. Agassiz, in company with
Professor Buckland, visited the Leeds museum,
where he found some fine fossils presenting the same
scales and the same teeth as those of Burdiehousej
BUR
175
BUR
conjoined in the same individual. It is therefore no
longer a conjecture that they might belong to the
same animal. And in these self-same specimens we
have the hyoid and branchiostie apparatus of bones
(a series of bones connected with the gills, an in-
dubitable character of fishes) ; it is therefore no
longer a conjecture that the Burdiehouse fossils were
the remains of fishes and not of reptiles. Thus was
dissipated the illusion founded on the Burdiehouse
fossils that Saurian reptiles existed in the carboni-
ferous era. To this animal M. Agassiz assigned the
name of Megalichthvs.
BURGH-HEAD." See Brouch Head.
BURGH-HEAD, or Burrowhead, a promon-
tory in Wigtonshire, in the parish of Whithorn, ter-
minating the peninsula between Luce bay and Wig-
ton bav.
BURLEIGH CASTLE, an ancient edifice in the
parish of Orwel, county of Kinross; about half a
mile south-east of Millnathort. It is now incor-
porated with the out-buildings of a farm-stead ; but
a great part of the exterior walls is still entire. It
seems to have originally formed a square, surrounded
by a wall and ditch. The western side of this square,
consisting of two towers, and an intervening curtain
and gateway, still remain. The tower on the north-
west angle is a large square building; that on the
south-west is of a circular form, and seems to be the
most modern structure of the whole. Within these
few weeks it appeared to us to be still inhabited,
from its glazed windows and entire roof. The castle
was at one period surrounded with fine old trees,
of which a few still linger in the immediate vicinity
of the ruins, but exhibit the ravages of decay and
age. At the distance of about 20 feet from the
west wall of the north-western tower, there stood
till within these few years, a large hollow ash, in
which Robert, only son of the 4th Lord Burleigh,
found shelter and concealment, in 1707, while an
outlaw for the murder of the schoolmaster of Aber-
deen. After the death of his father, this hot-headed
youth engaged in the rebellion of 1715, and the title
was in consequence attainted. Historical notices
concerning Burleigh are very scanty. Sibbald tells
us that the laird of Burghly was heritable crowner
of Fife under Queen Mary ; and that James
Balfour of Burghly was clerk-register in 1565-6-7,
and president of the session in 1567. Sir James
Balfour informs us that James II., ' Anno nono
regni sui,' gave the castle and barony of Burleigh,
' in liberam baroniam Johanni de Balfour de Bal-
garvie, militi ;' and that James VI. honoured Sir
Michael Balfour of Burleigh, son to Sir James
Balfour of Montquhanny, clerk-register, and to
Margaret Balfour, heiress of Burleigh, by letters
patent, bearing date at Rovston, in' England, 7th
August, 1606, with the title of Lord Balfour of
Burleigh, he being then his ambassador to the Duke
of Tuscany and the Duke of Lorrain. In 1644,
Lord Burleigh seems to have been president of the
Scottish parliament and a general of the forces. He
was defeated by the Marquis of Montrose, near
Aberdeen, on September 12th, 1644. He was, also,
one of the committee of parliament attached to the
•army under General Baillie, which lost the bloody
field of Kilsyth, through the dissensions of its
leaders. This army was encamped near Burleigh,
some time previous to that disastrous day. [See
Wishart's Wars of Montrose, and Principal BaiUie's
interesting Letters and Journals of Affairs, between
1637 and 1662.] — About eighty years ago the castle
and lands of Burleigh were purchased by General
Irwin, and afterwards sold to Thomas' Graham,
Esq. of Kinross and Burleigh About a mile
north ol Lochleven, in this neighbourhood, are sev-
eral remarkable hollows, which, from their shape,
have been denominated The Ships of Burleigh.
One of these is distinguished by the designation
of Lady Burleigh's jointure, and tradition thus re-
lates its story. A Lord Burleigh, it seems, had ob-
tained in marriage a lady less enamoured than pro-
vident. Her applications for an ample settlement
becoming somewhat teasing, his lordship, in rather an
angry mood, desired her to attend him early next
day, when he would take her to a field not half-u-
ntile distant from the castle, and there settle upon
her all the lands within her view. Avarice is often
credulous, and it was so in this instance. The ladv
walked forth with elated expectations; but when,
from a level road, descending a gentle slope, she was
told to look round her, she beheld, with disappointed
emotion, only a verdant circle of about 50 yards in
diameter, finely horizoned with a lofty cope of azure.
Additional interest is given to this place by its wholly
consisting of arable and, and by the romantic ap-
pearance of the mountains, as they sink in the dis-
tance, while vou descend the sloping sides of the dell.
BURNESS, a parish in the island of Sanday,
which has been from time immemorial united quoad
sacra with Cross ; which see. Houses in 1831, 76.
Population, in 1811, 423; in 1835, 432. A curious
tumulus was discovered here in 1824 ; a full de-
scription and drawing of it is given in the 1st vol. of
' The Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal.' See
also Sanday.
BURNESWARK. See Brunswark.
BURNTISLAND, a parish in the Kirkaldy dis-
trict of Fifeshire, about 3 miles in length, and nearly
the same in breadth ; bounded on the north by Aber-
dour and Kinghorn ; on the east by Kinghorn ; on
the south by the frith of Forth ; and on the "est by
Aberdour. A plain extends inward from the sea
about half-a-mile, when the ground becomes hilly
and mountainous, and the soil of inferior quality and
value. There are about 3 miles of coast. To the
westward of the town, the shore is rocky ; to the
eastward it is sandy as far as Pettvcur. In these
sands are excellent beds of cockles and other shell-
fish. The hills on the north of the town exhibit
marks of volcanic fire. Dunearn is very like an ex-
tinguished volcano, the crater of which has been con-
verted into a small lake. This hill rises to the
height of 695 feet above sea-level. On the north
side of these hills are basaltic columns ; and on their
tops are cairns and tumuli of great size. The coun-
try around Burntisland is chiefly composed of floetz
rocks and alluvial strata. There is a quarry of ex-
cellent freestone ; and the whole parish abounds i-n
limestone of the very best, quality, in which curious
fossils occur resembling those described in our article
Burdiehouse. Starlvburn, on the western boun-
dary produces beautiful specimens of stalaciites,
and incrustations of moss and wood. Population of
the parish and town, in 1801, 1,530; in 1831, 2,356,
of whom 1,873 resided in the burgh, and 190 in the
village of Kirktoun. Assessed property, in 1815,
£6,660. Real rental about £5.000. Houses in
1831, 269. — This parish, formerly a vicarage, is
in the presbytery of Kirkaldy, and synod of Fife.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend £185 17s. 4d., with
a glebe of the value of £50. Unappropriated
teinds, £70 19s. 9<i. The parish-church is within
the burgh of Burntisland. It was built in 1592;
sittings 900. The original parish-church was at
the village of Kirktoun. — There is also a United
Secession church within the burgh. Stipend £100,
with a manse. — The parochial is also the burgb
school. Salary £26. There are certain lands in the
parish mortified by a Mr. Watson, for behoof of the
schoolmaster and three poor widows, out of which
BUR
176
BUR
the three widows receiye 8 bolls of barley, and 2
bolls of oatmeal, with £i 12s. 6d. each; and 10
bolls of barley and .£3 10s. per annum is paid for
teaching the children of the poor. In 1834, the
average attendance at the burgh-school was 140 ;
and there were at the same time six private schools
within the parish. In ancient times this parish was
called Wester Kingborn.
Burntisland, anciently known as Wester
Kinghorn, a royal burgh and sea-port in the above
parish ; 2j miles west of Kingborn ; 3 east of Aber-
dour, and 5J north of Leith, being nearly opposite to
the latter harbour. There is regular steam-commu-
nication with Newhaven. The town is finely situa-
ted on a peninsula of the frith of Forth, surrounded
on the north by hills in the form of an amphitheatre,
which atford an excellent shelter to the harbour. It
consists of two streets running parallel to each
other, and terminated by the harbour on the west,
besides some lanes. On the east are the links, and
some handsome cottages for sea-bathers. The prin-
cipal street is broad and spacious, and contains a
number of respectable buildings. It was fortified
during the reign of Charles I., and part of the wall
and east port still remain. It underwent a siege by
Cromwell, but held out until it procured honourable
terms of capitulation, one of Which — it is said — was
to pave the street and repair the harbour, which he
faithfully performed. At the west end of the town,
surrounded by plantations, and overlooking the har-
bour, is Rossend castle, built by the Duries of that
ilk in the loth century. Burntisland was constituted
a royal burgh by James VI., and was governed by a
provost, 3 baillies, a dean-of-guild, a treasurer, and
21 councillors. This number is much too large for
the population. The municipal constituency was
in fact only 21 in 1839, being just equal to the
number of councillors under the new municipal act.
The revenue, in 1811, was about £300 ; in 1838-9,
i'364 6s. 6d. The property of the burgh consists
of the three hills, the links, about an acre of arable
land, the school-house, town-house, and flesh-mar-
ket, with some houses and fens. The debt, in 1834,
was £4, 150. The amount of cess annually raised
varies from £[{ to £12 on land, and £i to £5
on trade. It joins with Kinghorn, Kirkaldy, and
Dysart, in sending a member to parliament. The
parliamentary constituency, in 1839, was 53. The
town has been well-supplied with excellent water
since 1803. The harbour — anciently called Portus
Gratiae — is the best on the frith of Forth, being large
and capacious, easily entered, and of great depth,
and affording safety let the wind blow from any
quarter. The piers — one of which is said to have been
erected by Cromwell — are still capable of much im-
provement, by carrying them farther out to where
a depth of 27 feet water could be obtained at spring-
tides, and vessels of easy draught could enter at any
time of tide. Connected with the harbour is a large
dry dock, having 16£ feet water at spring-tides,
wherein a Russian ship of 1,000 tons was repaired in
1809, and also a frigate of 32 guns. Government
granted £11,000 towards the improvement of the
port, under the direction of trustees, appointed by
act of parliament, and for improving the ierry be-
twixt this and Keith. On the eastern pier is a fixed
light, which is seen 7 miles in clear weather. The
harbour is in N. lat. 50° 4', W. long. 3° 14'. In
1833, there were 8 vessels of a joint tonnage of 900
tons belonging to this port. In 1656, there were 7
vessels, whose joint tonnage was only 114 tons. Be-
fore the Union, tbe commerce of Burntisland was
considerable ; and, in the 17th century, it carried on
a considerable traffic with Holland. Tucker, how-
ever, gives a description of the place and its vicinity,
which leads to the conclusion that the extent of the
trade formerly belonging to it has, in the common
accounts, been overrated, by attributing to it alone
what belonged to all the little ports on the coast of
Fifeshire. " Tbe trade of these ports inwards."
says he, "is from Norway, the East country, and
sometimes from France with wines; and outwards
with coals and salt, at all times very small and worth
little ; for although this he the bounds of one of
the best and richest countyes of Scotland, yet the
goodness and riches of the countrey arising more
from the goodness and fertility of soyle and lands
than from any traffique, hath made it the residence
and seate of many of the gentry of that nation,
who have wholly driven out all but theyr tenants
and peasants, even to the shoare side." At that
period, Kinghorn, Kirkaldy, Dysart, Wemyss,
Leven, Ely, St. IWonanoe, Pittenweem, Anstruther,
Crail, St. Andrew's, and South Ferry were all counted
as members of the head-port of Burntisland; and
the tonnage of the whole uas estimated at 1,291 tons,
divided over 46 vessels. Alter the Union, the trade
of Burntisland fell off entirely, and little business of
any kind was done for a long period. Subsequently,
the trade of the town again increased, but for some
years back it may be considered nearly stationary.
It at present is confined merely to the curing of her-
rings and their exportation ; to the trade connected
with an extensive distillery in the neighbourhood ;
and to the building and repairing of ships. Lately a
whale-fishing company has been established with
two ships : there are at present no other ships em-
ployed in foreign trade, and only a very few in the
coasting trade. Fewer vessels than formerly resort
to the harbour as a place of shelter, probably owing
to the improvement of the other harbours on the
coast, and to the custom of ships running up to
the Hope- — a road-stead higher up the frith — in pre-
ference to taking a harbour during a storm, or
while otherwise detained, to save the harbour-dues.
This place was the principal rendezvous for the her-
ring-fishery until the northern lishing-stations were
opened ; but since that, cooperage and curing of
herrings is tbe chief branch of business here, and
most of the boats employed belong to other ports
of the frith. In the New Statistical Account it is
stated, that, for some years, there have been an-
nually cured here from 16,000 to 18,000 barrels ofher-
rings. There is a very extensive distillery at Grange.
A fair is held on the 10th of July. — The town of Ber-
tiland or Bryntiland belonged anciently to the abbey
of Dunfermline, and was exchanged by James V., in
1541, for some lands in the neighbourhood, that he
might erect it into a royal burgh. It was proclaimed
as such in 1568; but a charter of erection was granted
in 1541. In 1587 the different grants and charters
in favour of the burgh were ratified, with consent
of parliament. A charter de novo damns was granted
by Charles I. in 1632, and ratified in 1633. The
General Assembly met at Burntisland in 1601, when
James VI. attended and retook the solemn oath and
covenant. In 1715, the Earl of Mar's forces occu.
pied this town. In 1746. a large body of Hessians
were encamped here. Burntisland gave the title — ■
now extinct — of Baron to the family of Wemyss.
BURRA, a small island of Shetland, about 3
miles in circumference, fertile, and affording ex-
cellent pasture. Two other small islands are near
to it, Papa and Havera. The population of the three
may be estimated atahout400. Seearticles, Bressay
and Quarff.
BURRAY, one of the Orkney islands, about 4
miles long, and 1 broad. It is the property of the
Earl of Zetland, and is separated from South Ron.
aldsay by Water sound, a ferry of a mile in breadth.
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177
BUT
This island is composed of sandstone, sandstone-flag,
and schistose clay. The inhabitants, in 1801, were
271; in 1831, 357; whose chief employment is fish-
ing. See South Ronaldsay.
BURROWMUIR. See Boko ugh- Moor.
BUTE,* an island in the frith of Clyde, separated
from CoAval, in Argyllshire, by a very narrow chan-
nel called the Kyles or Bute: see that article. It
extends in length about 16 miles, and is from 3 to
5 in breadth. The general direction is from south-
east to north-west. The northern parts of the island
are rocky and barren, but the southern extremity is
fertile, well-cultivated, and enclosed. The coast is
rocky, and indented with bays, several of which form
safe harbours. The bays of Rothesay, Karnes, and
Kilchattan, indent its eastern shore; those of Stra-
vannan, Scalpsie, Ettrick.and Kilmichael, its western.
Stravannan bay, and that of Kilchattan, run so far in
as to make the south end of Bute an oval peninsula,
in the centre of which rises Mount Blair, a hill whence
a noble prospect may be enjoyed. The intervening
space is a low sandy plain, and there is another low
plain between Kames and Ettrick bay. — Near the
middle of the island are several small sheets of water,
viz. Lochs Fad, Ascog or Askaig, Quien, and Auch-
enteery. Of these, Loch Fad is the most extensive
and the most interesting. See that article. Pike,
perch, and trout, are found in most of them. Mount
Stewart, the fine seat of the Marquess of Bute, is
situated on the coast, about 2 miles south-east of
Rothesay. See article Mount Stewart Port
Bannatyne, on the bay of Kames, 3 miles north-east
of Rothesay, is a pleasant village, much frequented
as a bathing-place. See article Port Bannatyne.
A little to the north of it is Kames' castle, long a
seat of the Bannatynes. At Wester Kames stands
another castle, formerly belonging to the Spences.
At Askaig, north of Mount Stewart, was also a
castle, destroyed about the year 1646 by the Mar-
quess of Argyle. The climate, though damp, is mild
and temperate, and the soil is favourable for agricul-
ture. Freestone of a reddish colour abounds in the
island, and limestone is met with in every part of
it. Coal has been discovered near Ascog; but it
has not been thought worth while to work it. — This
island, conjoined with the islands of Arran, the
Greater and Lesser Cumbrae, and Inchmarnock, forms
a county under the name of the shire of Bute. It
has one royal burgh, Rothesay, which is also the
chief town of the shire: see Rothesay. The island
of Bute contains two parishes. See Kingarth
and Rothesay. There are several remains of an-
tiquity on the island. See articles St. Blane's
Chapel, and Dungyle. Bute gives the title of
Marquess to a branch of the family of Stuart, who
is proprietor of the greater part of the island. Popu-
lation of the whole island, in 1791, 6,470; in 1801,
6,106; in 1831, 6,830. Houses, in 1831, 889. As-
sessed property, in 181.5, £13,066 The western
* As the island itself is in Gaelic called Oilean a' Mhoide, or
■ the Island wliere the Cuurt of justice sits,' and the town of
Rothesay Bailea Mhoide, — one might suppose that this desig-
nation indicated the origin of the name Bute; the word Mhoido
being pronounced, in this connection, as if it were Voide. But
it is evident that it must have had a similar name long before
we can reasonably suppose il to have been the seat of justice.
For the ancient geographer Ptolemy calls it Bajr-.i, which, if
the Greek termination be thrown away, nearly assumes the
form of the Gaelic name — which it still bears— Bold. 'lhe same
term, when not used as a name, signifies a vow or oath. Whe-
ther, in this primary sense, it referred to any religious circum-
stance connected with the history of this island, perhaps in the
Drtiidical period, we have no data whence we cau form so
much as a conjecture. By Norwegian writers it is written
Bot, The learned Camden had been misinformed as to the
meaning of the name Bictke, or Boot, which, he says, had been
denominated " from the sacred cell which Brendan erected
there, a cell being thus named in Scottish." But the Gaelic
loth properly signifies a hut or cottage.— See article Ronn:sAV.
1.
isles of Scotland, Man, Shetland, and Orkney, ap-
pear to have been frequently infested by armies of
Scandinavians, from the year 738 till about the
year 875, when those islands fell under the dominion
of Norway, to which they in general remained sub-
ject, with little interruption, for many ages. Bute
and its neighbouring islands formed a subject of fre-
quent dispute between the Scots and the Norwegi-
ans, if not during the whole time that the power of
the latter subsisted in these countries, yet for a long
period before the Ebudoa or Western isles were
ceded to the Crown of Scotland. By their situation,
so near the heart of the Scottish kingdom, descents
could be made from these insular stations by the one
power upon the territories of the other. They were,
in this view, more particularly important to the Nor-
wegians ; as they could, from hence, more easily an-
noy the Scots, than from any other place where they
had a regular established footing. Accordingly, it
appears from monuments whereof vestiges can still
be traced out, that great solicitude was shown to
defend the island of Bute. The castle of Rothesay
was a stronghold of such antiquity that neither re-
cord nor tradition seem even to offer a conjecture as
to the time of its original erection. Malcolm II.
made a grant of Bute sometime before the year
1093, to Walter, the first Lord-high-steward, who
gave it to a younger son, with whom and his pos-
terity it remained about a century, when it was re-
annexed to the patrimony of the Lord-high-stew-
ard, by the intermarriage of Alexander Steward
with Jean, daughter and heiress of James, Lord of
Bute. In 1228, Husbec, or Ospac, the feudatory
king of the Isles, laid siege to the castle of Rothesay ;
but, being bravely repulsed, was killed in the course
of the enterprise, and his people were obliged to
retire after suffering a considerable diminution of
their number. Olave, his successor, procured from
the Norwegian monarch a fleet and army, wherewith
he proceeded against Dungad, who had set himself
up as a competitor in the Isles, and having seized
upon his person at Kiarara, near the sound of Mull,
he from thence came to Bute with 80 ships, and laid
siege to Rothesay castle. The garrison defended it
bravely; and, by various methods, destroyed about
300 of the besiegers; but the force of the Norwegians
and islanders was so great, that, after persevering
some time, they took the castle by sapping, and
found in it a rich booty. How long after this Bute
remained subject to the Norwegians is not precisely
known. When Haco of Norway invaded Scotland
in 1263, this and the other islands in the frith of
Clyde were in the hands of the Scots. These isles
he reduced; but being defeated at Largs, the whole
Western isles were soon afterwards ceded to Alex-
ander III., king of Scotland. In the fatal battle
fought at Falkirk betwixt the English and Scots, in
1298, the men of Buteshire — known at that time by
the name of the Lord-high-ste ward's Brandanes —
served under Sir John Stewart, where they were
almost wholly cut off with their valiant leader.
Edward of England having obtained possession of
Bute, kept it until 1312; when Robert Bruce took
the castle of Rothesay, and recovered the island.
Thither Edward Baliol came in person, anno 1334,
took the castle, and strengthened its fortifications.
It was, however, soon retaken by the faithful Bran-
danes of the Lord-high-steward, and this was one of
those occurrences which first gave a favourable turn
to the affairs of King Robert Bruce. Next year the
king of England took an opportunity of repaying
the Brandanes with usury, the ills they ha'i done
him. With a view to the extending and securing
his conquests in Scotland, he fitted out a fleet from
Ireland, consisting of 56 ships. The most signa
M
BUT
178
BYR
service, however, which they did, was to lay waste
Bute and Arran. On the death of David Bruce, in
February, 1371, he was succeeded by his nephew,
Robert, the Lord-high-steward, afterwards King
Robert II., from whom the noble family of Bute is
lineally descended. Robert III., son to the former,
fixed his residence in the castle of Rothesay during
the latter part of his life, and died there on the 29th
of March, 1406. James V. had also resolved to
make this place a residence, and took some steps
towards putting the castle into proper order for his
accommodation ; but the troubles of his reign, and
his death, which happened at an early period of
his days, prevented this place from again becoming a
royal residence. The island suffered much after-
wards from factions which disturbed the public
peace, or from the inroads of neighbouring clans.
Cromwell in his time garrisoned the castle of Rothe-
say ; and to this island the unfortunate Archibald,
Earl of Argyle, came with his army in May, 1685,
when he bad engaged in concert with the Duke of
Monmouth to invade the kingdom. The Earl brought
with him from Holland three small ships laden with
arms for 5,000 men, 500 barrels of gunpowder, a
number of cannon, and other implements of war. He
ordered his ships and military stores to an old castle
which stood on the small rock of Eilan-greg, near
the mouth of Loch Riddan, opposite to the north
end of Bute. There he deposited his spare arms
and ammunition under the protection of his ships
and the garrison of 180 men. At this time the inha-
bitants of Bute were plundered of almost their whole
moveable property. After Argyle had been about ten
days in Bute, having received notice that a great
body of forces, with three ships of war and some
frigates, were coming to attack him, he hastily re-
treated. The naval armament arrived, and pro-
ceeded on the 15th of June to Loch Riddan, where
the Earl's frigates immediately struck to them, and
the castle also surrendered. After removing the
"arms and stores into the king's ships, the naval com-
mander caused the castle to be blown up. The Earl's
army, after leaving Bute, thought only how to get
to their respective homes. Argyle himself was
taken prisoner at Inchinnan on the 17th of June, and
being conveyed to Edinburgh, was there beheaded.
Soon after, a brother of Argyle's surprised the castle,
and burnt it.
BUTESHIRE, a county composed of the islands
of Arran, Bcte, the Cumbraes, and Inchmar-
nock. See these articles separately described.
There are five parishes and one royal burgh within
this shire. Population, in 1801, 11,791; in 1831,
14,200. Assessed property, in 1815, £22,541.
Houses, in 1831, 2,134. Above 200 males, upwards
of 20 years of age, were employed as weavers in
the county of Bute in 1831. There were also 590
males employed in retail trade or in handicraft The
number of parochial schools, in 1834, was 10 ; of
schools not parochial, 30 : total number of scholars,
2,354. The county returns one member to parliament.
Parliamentary constituency, in 1839, 380. The
sheriff and small-debt courts are held at Rothesay.
BUTT OF LEWIS, the northern extremity of
The Lewis. It is in N. lat. 58° 35'.
BUTTERDEAN, a village in the shire of Ber-
wick, and parish of Oldhatnstocks ; 6 miles west by
north of Press.
BUTTERSTONE LOCH, a small lake in the
parish of Cluny, in Perthshire, adjoining to the loch
of the Lows, on the road from Dunkeld to Blair-
gowrie, 3 miles north-east of Dunkeld.
BYREBURN-FOOT. See Canoby.
BYRES, in the shire and parish of Haddington, a
barony which belonged for many centuries to the
noble family of Lindsay, ancestors of the present
Earl of Crawford, from whom it was acquired about
the beginning of the 17th century by the Earl of
Haddington. It is now the property of the Earl ox
Hopetouu. It is 3 miles north-north-west of Had-
dington. The Earl of Haddington is baron of Bin-
ning and B'.res.
THE CHURCHYARD OF BALQUHIDDER.
CAA
179
CAD
c
CAAF (The), an Ayrshire stream, a tributary of
the Garnock. It rises on the boundaries of Kilbride
and Largs parishes, and flows south-east through
a moorish and featureless district of country, until
within half-a-mile of its junction with the Garnock,
a mile below Dairy, where it rushes through a deep
and rocky dell, in a series of rapids, and finally forms
a fine cascade above 20 feet in height.
CABRACH, a parish partly in the district of Al-
ford, Aberdeenshire, and partly in the shire of Banff;
bounded by the parishes of Mortlaeb and Glass on
the north ; by Rhynie and Kearn, and Kildrummy
on the east ; by Glenbucket on the south ; and by
Inveravan and Mortlach on the west. The Black-
water, a head-stream of the Deveron, rises on the
southern skirts of that division of the parish
which is in Banffshire, and flows north-east till its
junction with the Deveron at Dalriach, while the
Deveron itself rises in the southern skirts of the
Aberdeenshire portion, to the west of the Buck of
Cabrach, [see Auchindoir,] and flows north-east
through Strathdeveron. The ridge which separates
the vales of these two streams is about 2 miles in
breadth. The whole surface of the parish is moun-
tainous, and the general character that of a bleak
pastoral district. The extreme length of the parish
is 12 miles; the extreme breadth 8 ; and the super-
ficies may amount to 80 square miles. Population,
in 1801, 684; in 1831, 978. Houses in 1831, 190.
Assessed property, .£600. — This parish, formerly a
vicarage, is in the presbytery of Alford, and synod of
Aberdeen. Patron, the Duke of Richmond. Stipend
£158 6s. 7d., with a glebe of the value of £10.
Church built in 1786; sittings 230.— There is a
United Secession congregation at Altoun. Church
built in 1796 ; sittings 210. It is occupied alter-
nately by a congregation of Independents. — School-
master's salary, £29 18s. lOd. Scholars average 40.
There are also three or four private schools taught
within the parish during the winter-months.
CADDER, a parish in Lanarkshire; bounded on
the north by Campsie and Kirkintilloch parishes ; on
the east by New Monkland ; on the south by Old
Monkland and the Barony parish of Glasgow ; and
on the west by New Kilpatrick and Baldernock. It
is 13 miles in length from east to west ; and be-
tween 3 and 4 miles in breadth. The counties of
Lanark, Dumbarton, and Stirling, all meet at its
northern point. Gartinqueen hill, in this parish, is
said to be at an equal distance from Hamilton, Fal-
kirk, and Stirling. The river Kelvin, whieh rises on
the east of Kilsyth, runs 6 miles along the northern
boundary of the parish. It used to overflow its
banks, in time of rain, and do considerable damage ;
but the proprietors on the north side have confined
it by a great earthen mound. The Forth and Clyde
canal runs through the parish for 5 miles in a line
nearly parallel with the Kelvin. An extensive loch,
which occupied the centre of this parish at the be-
ginning of last century, was drained by a mine or
drift driven a full mile in length under a hill, and, in
many places, 90 feet below the surface, whereby 120
acres of fine arable ground were gained. There is
another lake, partly in this parish, but chiefly in New
Monkland, called the Bishop's loch, a mile in length,
and one-fourth of a mile in breadth, which is at
present occupied as a reservoir by the Forth and
Clyde canal company. Robroystone loch touches on
the western skirts of the parish The post-road,
from Edinburgh to Glasgow, passes 4 miles through
this parish, and crosses the Forth and Clyde canal
about a mile east of Caadei kirk. The Kirkintil-
loch railway runs for about 5 miles through the
eastern part of the parish ; and the Garnkirk and
Glasgow railway runs for an equal distance along
the southern side. There are a number of freestone
quarries in the parish: the stone takes a fine
polish. There are also vast quantities of whin rock,
and an inexhaustible rock of limestone, which has
been wrought to a considerable extent at Garnkirk,
Bedlay, and Robroystone. Some coal is wrought,
but to little advantage. There are extensive beds
of fire-clay. The valuation of the whole parish is
£6,270 Scotch ; and the yearly rent, towards the
end of last century, was about £6,000 sterling. It
is now estimated at about £14,000. The value of
assessed property, in 1815, was £14,439. The whole
face of the district is generally level; yet there is
considerable variety of soils : such as, light sandy
till, a stiff till, deep black earth, and moss. When
the first Statistical Account of this parish was writ-
ten, it was stated, that " Flax is the most advan-
tageous crop here: 200 acres are sown annually;
and this year (1792), one farmer has sown 30 acres
with flax seed : 32 stones of good scutched flax have
been raised from one acre, and sold at a guinea the
stone, — a price perhaps equal to the value of the
land on which it grew. Riga flax seed, and the finest
kinds of Dutch seed are mostly sown here ; though"
some good crops of flax have been raised from Bos-
ston flax seed. On rich moist soil, the finest flax is
raised from American seed." The cultivation of flax
has declined here, as generally elsewhere : the num-
ber of acres devoted to it does not exceed 80. Oats
are the prevailing crop. Population, in 1801, 2,120 ;
in 1831, 3,048. Houses 416, viz. Auchenairn and
Auchinloch [see these articles] ; Bishop's bridge,
with a population of 175 ; Cadder, with a population
of 64; Chryston [which see] ; Mudiesburn, with
a population of 143 ; Mollinburn [which see] ,
Muirhead, with a population of about40 This par-
ish is in the presbytery of Glasgo iv, and synod of Glas-
gow and Ayr. Patrons, the heritors and kirk-session.
The whole parish, excepting the barony of Cadder,
and the Midtown of Bedlay, formerly belonged to the
subdeanery of Glasgow. The Bishop's land was
called the Baldermonoch ward, or Monk's town;
and comprehended ten townships. From this eccle-
siastical tenure are derived the names of several
places in the parish, such as : the Bishop's bridge,
the Bishop's moss, and the Bishop's loch. After the
Reformation, the temporalities of the subdeanry or
Glasgow — which consisted of the parishes of Cadder
and Monkland — came into the possession of the noble
families of Hamilton and Kilmarnock, and were by
them transferred to the college of Glasgow, for a
considerable sum of money, about the year 1656.
The parish of Cadder, as well as that of Monkland,
availing itself of the act 1690, by paying 600 merks
Scotch to the college of Glasgow, obtained a renun-
ciation of tbe right of patronage by that body ; in
consequence of which, the heritors and elders of the
parish became the electors of the minister. The
stipend is, £280 8s. 5d. ; value df glebe £17 10s
CAE
180
CAE
The church was built in 1829-30. Cost £2,000;
sittings 740. There is another church at Chryston.
There are three parochial schools, at Cadder, Chrys-
ton, and Auchenairn ; besides schools at Aucbinloch,
Bishop's bridge, Crofthead, and Mollinburn. From
250 to 300 children attended those schools in 1834.
The Roman wall, or Graham's dike, is almost the
only piece of antiquity in this parish. It runs 4
miles through it, and may still be traced in Cadder
wood. — At Robroystone, in this parish, Sir William
Wallace was betrayed and apprehended, by Sir John
Menteith. After he was overpowered, and before
his hands were bound, it is said, he threw his sword
into Robroystone loch. The circumstances of his
apprehension are thus related by Mr. Carrick in his
Life of the hero : — " On the night of the 5th of Au-
gust, 1305, Sir William, and bis faithful friend,
Kerle, accompanied by the youth before-mentioned,
had betaken themselves to their lonely retreat at
Robroyston ; to which place their steps had been
watched by a spy, who, as soon as he had observed
them enter, returned to his employers. At the dead
hour of midnight, while the two friends lay fast
asleep, the youth, whose turn it was to watch, cau-
tiously removed the bugle from the neck of Wallace,
and conveyed it, along with his arms, through an
apei'ture in the wall ; then slowly opening the door,
two men-at-arms silently entered, and, seizing upon
Kerle, hurried him from the apartment, and instantly
put him to death. Wallace, awakened by the noise,
started to his feet, and, missing his weapons, became
sensible of his danger, but grasping a large piece 'of
oak, which had been used for a seat, he struck two
of his assailants dead on the spot, and drove the rest
headlong before him. Seeing the fury to which he
was roused, and the difficulty they would have in
taking him alive, Menteith now advanced to the
aperture, and represented to him the folly of resist-
ance, as the English, he said, having heard of his
place of resort, and of the plans he had in contem-
plation, were collected in too large a force to be with-
stood ; that if he would accompany him a prisoner
to Dumbarton, he would undertake for the safety of
his person ; — that all the English wished, was to se-
cure the peace of the country, and to be free from
his molestation ; — adding, that if he consented to go
with him, he should live in his own house in the
castle, and he, Menteith, alone should be his keeper ;
• — that even now, he would willingly sacrifice his life
in his defence ; but that his attendants were too few,
and too ill-appointed, to have any chance of success
in contending with the English. He concluded by
assuring Wallace, that he had followed in order to
use his influence with his enemies in his behalf, and
that they had listened to him on condition of an im-
mediate surrender; but that if he did not instantly
comply, the house would soon be in flames about
him. These, and other arguments were urged with
all the seeming sincerity of friendship ; and our pa-
triot, confiding in early recollections, and the private
understanding that subsisted between them, allowed
himself to be conducted to Dumbarton castle. On
the morrow, however, no Menteith appeared to ex-
ert his influence, in order to prevent the unfortunate
hero from being carried from the fortress ; and
strongly fettered, and guarded by a powerful escort,
under the command of Robert de Clifford and Aymer
de Vallence, he was hurried to the South, by the line
of road least exposed to the chance of a rescue."
CAERKETAN CRAIG, one of the Pentland
hills, in the parish of Colinton, Edinburghshire ; ele-
vated 1,450 feet above the level of the sea.
CAERLANR1G, a district in the upper part of the
parish of Cavers. Roxburghshire, in which there has
been a preaching-staticn in connexion with the par-
ish-church for a couple of centuries. The present
chapel was built about the end of last century.
The minister has a salary of £52, raised by sub-
scription.
CAERLAVEROCK, a parish in the county of
Dumfries; bounded on the north by Dumfries par-
ish ; on the east by Lochar water, which divides it
from Ruthwell; and on the south and west by the
Solway frith and the river Nith. It is a kind of
peninsula, about 6 miles in length, and from half-a-
mile to 2 miles in breadth, formed by the Nith,
Lochar water, and the Solway frith. The middle
and western part is hilly; but towards the east the
surface becomes low and level. The superficial area
is 4,640 Scotch acres, of which nearly the whole is
arable. The value of assessed property, in 1815,
was £5,5S0. The high land is generally light, dry,
and fertile; interspersed however with spots of wet,
moorish, and shallow soil. The whole of the parish
lies on a bed of red freestone, which is quarried in
many places. The greater part of the arable ground
is enclosed and well-cultivated. There are two
small harbours in this parish, viz., Kelton and
Glencaple : which see. The Nith and Lochar
here abound with fish, especially excellent salmon.
Lochar moss, which borders with this parish, sup-
plies the inhabitants with fuel. Near the mouth of
the 'Nith are to be traced the vestiges of a moated
triangular castle, supposed by Camden to be the
Carbantorigum of Ptolemy ; several moats and Ro-
man encampments may also be traced ; but the most
interesting relic of antiquity, Caerlaverock castle,
belongs to Scottish history, and will be described at
the close of our general observations on the parish.
Dr. John Hutton, first physician to King William
and Queen Mary, was a native of this parish. Po-
pulation, in 1801, 1,014; in 1831, 1,271. Houses,
in 1831, 245 This parish is in the presbytery and
synod of Dumfries. Patron, the Marquess of
Queensberry. Stipend £177 5s. 9d„ with a glebe
of the value of £32. Church built in 1781 ; sit-
tings 470. There are three schools in the parish,
attended by about 200 scholars. Parish school-
master's salary £35, with £40 from Dr. Hutton's
bequest of £900, which appears to have been well-
managed, and now produces nearly £400 per annum.
Caerlaverock Castle lies near the shores of
the Solway, about 9 miles below Dumfries, at the
southern extremity of the parish. " This venerable
ruin," says the writer of a very interesting notice of
the castle in ' The Edinburgh Literary Gazette for
1S29,' "as to its external aspect, presents much the
same appearance that it did in the days of Pennant
and Grose, both of whom have given a description
of it. It is triangular, or shield-like, and surrounded
by a wet ditch. At two of the corners had been
two round towers; that on the western angle is
called Murdoch's; the other, or eastern, is demo-
lished. The entrance into the castle-yard lies
through a gateway in the northernmost angle, ma-
chicolated, and flanked by two circular towers. Over
the arch of the gate is the crest of the Maxwells,
with the date of the last repairs, and the motto, ' I
bid ye fair.' The residence of the family was on
the east side, which measures 123 feet. It is ele-
gantly built, and has three stories; the doors and
window-cases are handsomely adorned with sculpture.
On the pediments of the lower story are the coats-
of-arms and initials of the Maxwells, with different
figures and devices; on the windows of the second
story are representations of legendary tales; and
over the third are fables from Ovid's Metamorphoses.
The opposite side of the court-yard is plain. In the
front is a handsome staircase leading to the great
hall, which is SO feet by 26. The surrounding
CAERLAVEROCK.
1SI
scenery is highly picturesque, and described with
tolerable accuracy in Guy Jfannering. To the south
lies the Solway, with its waves still ' crisping and
sparkling to the moon-beams;' beyond them tower
the lofty mountains of Cumberland in the vicinity of
the lakes. To the east is the desolate expanse of
Lochar moss ; and to the west the embouchure of
the Nith, forming a magnificent bay, skirted on the
opposite side with the woods of Arbigland, New
Abbey, and Kirkconnell. On the back ground rises
Criffel, the termination of a chain of irregular hills
that enclose the vale of Nith like an amphitheatre.
The ships, with their white sails, passing and repass-
ing in the frith, — the monastic ruin of New Abbey,
with its Waterloo monument, — and the numerous
villages ' peeping from among the trees,' — form alto-
gether a landscape, that for beauty and variety can
hardly be surpassed. To the stranger we would
recommend, in visiting this ancient castle, on leav-
ing Dumfries, to take the road along the east bank
of the Nith, as both the shortest and the best, pass-
ing the village of Kelton, Conheath-house, and
Glencaple; and on his return to take the eastern
road by Bankend." — That the Romans possessed a
station here is certain, from the remains of a camp
on the hill of Wardlaw, a little to the west of the
castle, but who were its masters from the 6th to the
11th century, history makes no mention. Sir Robert
Douglas informs us, that Sir John Macuswell ac-
quired the barony of Caerlaverock about the year
1220; but from a genealogy of the house of Maxwell
in our possession — says the writer already quoted —
probably the same cited by Grose, this castle appears
to have been the principal seat of that family as
early as the time of Malcolm Canmore. Herbert,
the eleventh Lord Maxwell, followed the banner of
Bruce, and fell in the immortal field of Bannockburn.
It was in his time that the castle of Caerlaverock
was besieged and taken by Edward I. in person; of
which a singularly curious and minute description
has been preserved in a poem written in Norman-
French, and composed expressly on the occasion.
It is not certain how long Caerlaverock castle con-
tinued in the hands of the English after its surrender
to Edward I. in July, 1300 ; most probably 12 or 14
years. Maitland, in his History of Scotland, says it
was retaken by the Scots the following year, but
was soon repossessed by the English after a very
long siege. In 1355 this fortress, with the castle of
Dais win ton, was taken from the English by Roger
Kirkpatrick of Closeburn, who remained faithful
amidst the general defection of the nobles, and pre-
served the whole territory of Nithsdale in allegiance
to the Scottish crown. The historian John Major
says he levelled it with the ground. This, how-
ever, could not be literally true, as it continued to
be inhabited by Kirkpatrick till his death in 1357.
In that year the halls of Caerlaverock witnessed one
of the most atrocious deeds to be found in the annals
of feudal strife, — the murder of the brave Kirkpa-
trick by Sir James Lindsay. These two barons were
the sons of the murderers of the Red Cumming,
whom Bruce had poniarded for his treachery in the
church of the Dominican friars at Dumfries, in 1304.
No known cause of quarrel existed between them,
except that Kirkpatrick, as tradition records, had
married a beautiful lady to whom Lindsay was greatly
attached. Lindsay expiated his crime with his life,
being afterwards executed by order of David II.
The castle and baronial lands of Caerlaverock again
reverted to the Maxwells, and we rind but little no-
tice of it for more than two centuries. In 1425,
Murdoch, duke of Albany, who was apprehended
for high treason, was sent to Caerlaverock, where
he remained confined in the tower, called Murdoch's
tower, until he was taken back to Stirling, where
he was beheaded. The Lord Maxwell was arrested
with him, but liberated, and was one of the conser-
vators of the truce with England in 1438. Robert,
the next Lord Maxwell, is mentioned as having
' completed the bartyzan of Caerlaverock,' and made
some other repairs. He was slain near Bannockburn
with King James III. in 1488. Several of these
doughty barons made a conspicuous figure in the
raids and truces of the borders. Robert, the fifth
of that name, ' made a road into England, and spoiled
all Cumberland, in 1526.' This celebrated statesman
and warrior was taken prisoner, with his two broth-
ers, at the rout of the Scots at Solway moss, in
November, 1542, and sent to London, but ransomed
next year for 1,000 merks. King James made his
residence at that time in Caerlaverock castle, and
was so mortified at this defeat, that he retired to
Falkland, where he died of grief in about a month
after. Henry VIII. was anxious to get the castles
of Caerlaverock, Lochmaben, and Langholm, at this
time into his possession, and instructions were given
to his envoy. Lord Wharton, to examine them, "and
knowe their strength and scituations;' and in case
either of them was tenable, he was ' ernestly to
travaile with Robert Maxwell for the delvverie of
the same into his majestie's hands, if with money
and reward, or other large offers, the same may be
obtayned.' Sir John Maxwell, son to the preceding,
is the person known by the title of Lord Herries;
he was a staunch adherent of Queen Mary, fled with
her from Langside. and is the reputed author of a
history of her reign. He was forfeited in parlia-
ment, but sentence was deferred; and though he
did not die till 1594, his son John was served heir
to his estates in 1569, and next year the castle of
Caerlaverock again experienced the miseries of war.
The Earl of Sussex, who was sent by Queen Eliza-
beth into Scotland with an army of 15,000 men to
support King James VI. after the death of the Re-
gent Murray, ' took and cast down the castles of
Caerlaverock, Hoddam, Dumfries, Tinwald, Cow-
hill, and sundry other gentlemen's houses, dependers
on the house of Maxwell ; and having brunt the
town of Dumfries, they returned with great spoil
into England.' Though dismantled, Caerlaverock
does not appear to have been entirely ruined, as
Camden, in his Britannia, written about 1607, calls
it a weak house of the barons of Maxwell. Robert,
first Earl of Nithsdale, created in 1020, once more
repaired the fortifications of Caerlaverock castle in
1638; and during the civil war under Charles I., he
adhered to the royal cause, in which he expended
his whole fortune. In 1640 the castle was attacked
and besieged by the ' covenanted rebells,' under
Lieutenant-colonel Home. The loyal owner reso-
lutely defended the garrison for upwards of thirteen
weeks; nor did he lay down his arms, till he re-
ceived the king's letters, directing and authorizing
him to deliver up that and the castle of Thrieve
upon the best conditions he could obtain. From
this time Caerlaverock castle ceased to be an object
of contest, or even a place of habitation, as the
Maxwells transferred their residence to the Isle of
Caerlaverock, a small square tower on the margin of
the Lochar, and near the parish church. Here Ro-
bert the second Earl of Nithsdale, commonly called
the Philosopher, died in 1667. On the attainder of
William, fifth Earl of Nithsdale, who joined in the
rebellion of 1715, and made his escape from the
tower of London, through the ingenious heroism of
his wife, the estates were preserved from forfeiture,
being disponed to his son in 1712; and on his dung
without male issue, in 1776, they passed to his
daughter, the late Lady Winifred, who became sole
CAI
182
CAI
heiress to her father's estates. Her grandson,
William Constable Maxwell of Everingham Park,
Esq., is the present Lord of Caerlaverock.
CAIRN, or Cairnrtan, a small village in Wig-
tonshire, in the parish of Inch; 10 miles south of
Ballantrae, and 6g north of Stranraer, on the coast
of Loch Ryan. Population 300. It has a good
harbour, and a safe bay, where vessels of any burden
may anchor in the greatest safety. The Glasgow
and Belfast steamers regularly call here.
CAIRN (The), a river which has its source in
the higher parts of Dumfries-shire, and, running
south east, forms the boundary between that shire
and the stewartry of Kirkcudbright. It joins the
Glenesland water, and falls into the Cluden.
CAIRNAPLE, a mountain in the parish of Tor-
phichen, Linlithgowshire, rising 1,498 feet above the
level of the sea.
CAIRNCHUICHNAIG, a mountain in Ross-
shire, in Kincardine parish, upon which are found
topazes similar to those of the Cairngorm.
CAIRNDOW, a hamlet in Argyllshire, in the
parish of Lochgoilhead, near the northern extremity
of Loch Fyne. It is a stage on the military road,
94 miles from Edinburgh, 36 from Dumbarton, and
10 from Inverary. ' It is the only stage between
Inverary and Arroquhar by Glencroe. There is
a good inn here, and a steamer from Inverary
crosses every morning in excellent time for breakfast.
CAIRN-EILAR. See Aberdeenshire.
CAIRNEY-HILL, a village in the parish of
Carnock, Fifeshire ; 3 miles west of Dunfermline,
and a mile east of Torryburn. It is situated on the
burn of Pitdennies, on the road leading from Dun-
fermline to Alloa and Stirling, and contains about
600 inhabitants, who are principally employed in the
staple manufacture of Dunfermline, viz. table-linen.
There is a Secession church here, built in 1752;
sittings 400. Stipend .£96, with manse, garden,
and glebe.
CAIRNGORM, one of the loftiest of the Gram-
pians, situated in the parish of Abernethy, betwixt
the counties of Banff and Moray. Its height, by an
accurate calculation, was found to be 4,095 feet
above the level of the sea. It is of a conical shape ;
the sides and base are clothed with extensive fir-
woods, while its top is covered almost all the year
round with snow. The ascent from the west end
of Glenmore to the top of Cairngorm is easy ; and
the traveller will experience little difficulty in de-
scending upon Loch Aven : see that article. Cairn-
gorm is celebrated for those beautiful rock-crystals
of various tints, which are called Cairngorms,
though other places in Scotland afford them in great
abundance. They are a species of topaz, much ad-
mired by lapidaries. They were formerly procured
in great quantities ; but of late are more scarce, and
are only found amongst the debris of the mountain,
brought down by the currents after a storm. They
are regular hexagonal crystals, with a pyramidal top;
the other extremity is rough, and often a part of the
rock to which it has been attached adheres to it.
Some have been found weighing three or four ounces.
[See Note, p. 106.] Besides these stones, fine
specimens of asbestos covered with calcareous crys-
tallizations, talc, zeolite, crystallized quartz, and
spars, are frequently found on this mountain. The
botanical field presented by it is not very rich.
Lichen nivalis, Azalea procumbens, and Polytrichum
septentrionale, are found upon it There is a moun-
tain called the Easter, or Lesser Cairngorm, in
Braemar.
CA1RNGOWER. See Athole.
CAIRNHARRAH. See Anwoth.
CA1RNIEMOUNT, Cairn-o'-Mount, or The
Month, one of the Grampian mountains in Kincar-
dineshire, near the river Dee. Over this mountain
there is an excellent road, opening a communication
between the districts of Angus and Moray. See
article Aberdeen.
CAIRN-NA-CUIMHNE. See Braemar.
CAIRN OF HEATHER COW. See Bower.
CAIRNMONEARN, one of the Grampians, in
Aberdeenshire, 1,020 feet above the level of the
sea.
CAIRNPAT, sometimes Catrnpiot, a hill in the
south-eastern part of the parish of Portpatrick,
Wigtonshire, elevated 800 feet above the level of
the sea. It bears all the marks of having been a
military station, being surrounded by three stone-
walls and intrenchments, with ample spaces between
them. The summit affords a fine view of the Rhins
of Galloway ; and it is said, that in clear weather,
the coast of Cumberland can be seen from it.
CAIRNSMUIR, a mountain in the parish of Min-
nigaff, Kircudbrightshire, one of the highest in the
south of Scotland. Its elevation has never been
exactly ascertained, and various accounts are given
of its height. Alexander Maclean, Esq., in the old
Statistical Account of Kirkmabreck, says; " It may
probably be between 3,000 and 4,000 feet above the
level of the Cree!" But the Rev. Mr. Maitland, in
the Statistical Account of Minnigaff, says: " Cairns-
muir is 1,737 feet above the level of the sea; and
there are one or two neighbouring mountains which
are 20 or 30 feet higher."
CAIRNIE, a parish chiefly in the county of
Aberdeen, but partly in Banff, which formed part of
the lordship of Strathbogie, granted by Robert
Bruce to Sir Adam Gordon, after the defeat and
attainder of Cumyn, Earl of Badenoch. It extends
along the banks of the Bogie, in the neighbourhood
of the town of Huntly. The surface is hilly, but in
the low grounds the soil is deep and fertile. The
hills were formerly covered with oak-forests, but
now their appearance is bleak and naked. Popula-
tion, in 1801, 1,561 ; in 1831, 1,796. Assessed pro-
perty, in 1815, £4,325. Houses 384 — This parish is
in the presbytery of Strathbogie, and synod of Mo-
ray ; and consists of the united parishes of Botary,
Rathven, and part of Drumdelgy. Patron, the Duke
of Richmond. Stipend £210 0s. 3d. Value of glebe
£12 15s. Unappropriated teinds £217 7s. School-
master's salary £18 16s. 7d. in money, 16 bolls meal,
and about £20 fees. Pupils 50. There are two
private schools, attended by above 100 children.
CAIRSTON, in the island of Pomona, and parish
of Stromness. It possesses a harbour, in which
large vessels that require greater depth of water
and more space than what the harbour of Strom-
ness affords, usually anchor ; but there is a strong
tide here, and it lies more open and exposed than
Stromness harbour. It gives name to a presbytery.
CAITHNESS, the most remote and northern
county on the mainland of Scotland, forming its
north-eastern extremity, is divided from the county
of Sutherland on the south-west and west by a
range of mountains and high moory hills, which ex-
tend from the Ord of Caithness on the south, to the
shores of the North sea at Drumholasten. It is
bounded on the south-east and east by the Murray
frith and the German ocean ; on the north from
Duncansby-head, in 58° 37' N. lat., and 3° W. long.,
to Holburn-head, by the Pentland frith, dividing it
from the Southern isles of Orkney, and containing
the island of Stroma which forms a portion of the
shire; and westwards from Holburn-head it is
bounded by the North sea. Its form is an irregular
triangle, measuring 35 miles from north to south,
and 22 from east to west;' In Captain Henderson's
CAITHNESS.
188
Agricultural survey of the county, its superficies is
estimated at 61G square miles, —
English Scotcll
Acres, Acres.
894,240, or 315,932
1,440, or 1,152
Which is equal to ...
To which add the island of Stroma, 2^ square
miles, or
Total of the county, 018} square miles, or 395,680 == 310,544
In an agricultural view, Sir John Sinclair, in 1811,
estimated the whole to consist of nearly the follow-
ing divisions: —
Scotch Acres.
1. Arahle land of every description, infield and
outfield, 40,000
2. Meadow, or baug;hs, near rivers, burns, &c, 2,000
3. Green pasture, common down, and partly
moory clay, 02,000
4. Under brushwood, and small plantations, 850
5. Sand in Dunnet bay, &c. &c 3,000
6. Mountains, or high moory hills, iu the parishes
of Latheron, Cannisbay, Halkirk, and Reay, 71,200
7. Deep mosses, or fiat moors, (502 less than the
first account, for the isle of Stroma,) . . 130,261
8. Fresh. water lakes, 7,6S0; rivers and burns,
743 acres, 6,731
Total, 316,042
Sir John Sinclair's ' General View of the North-
ern Counties,' makes the extent of Caithness 690
square miles; English acres, 441,000; or Scotch
acres, 351,210, of which—
Arable, .
Pasture,
Moor or moss,
18,000 acres.
36,000 do.
297,210 do.
351,210 do.
There are no navigable rivers in this county. The
principal river is the water of Thurso, which origi-
nates from springs in the mountains bounding with
Sutherland, and partly from the Latheron hills;
thence it passes through several lakes and small
lochs — 24 of which are in one flat bog in Strathmore,
in the parish of Halkirk, and all send their tributary
streams to this river — and after traversing a distance
of about 30 miles, discharges itself into the Pent-
land frith at Thurso bay. Its ancient name, in the
Gaelic language, is Avon-Horsa, — that is, ' Horsa's
river ;' and the town of Thurso is called Bal-iiwer-
Horsa, — that is, * the town of Horsa's harbour.'
At the village of Halkirk this river is so rapid that
a fall of 14 feet could be commanded for machinery;
but, in general, the Thurso is not rapid enough for
falls, or deep enough for navigation, although with
floods of rain it rises from 5 to 7 feet above its nat-
ural level. — The next river in point of size is the
water of Wick, originating from the lochs of Wat-
ten, Toftingal, Scarmclate or Stempster, and from
various springs in the moors of the parish of Watten,
whence it runs eastward until it falls into the sea
in the sandy bay of Wick. The tide flows up this
small river for 2 miles, but it is of little depth. — The
water of Forss originates from springs in the moun-
tains between Sutherland and Caithness, and coming
through Loch Kelm, Loch Shurary, &c, runs due
north to Cross-Kirk bay, where it enters the North-
ern ocean, dividing the parishes of Reay and Thurso.
In general, it is rather flat than rapid and shallow
in its meandering course through Strathglaston.
The water of Wester runs through the parish of
Bower, from lochs and springs eastward to the loch
of Wester, and thence becomes a deep stream for a
short distance to Keiss bay on the German ocean.
There are various bums, or small streams, besides
those above-mentioned, in the northern and eastern
part of this county; and on the south side of the
county there are the waters of Dunbeath, Berrie-
dale, and Langvvell, with a number of small burns
running from springs iu the mountains, which have
a rapid, rugged, and shallow course to the Murray
frith. There are salmon-fishings, besides the great
one on the river Thurso, in the waters of Wick,
Dunbeath, and Langwell; the fish of the latter is
considered the firmest and best in Scotland. The
principal lake is the loch of Calder, in Halkirk par-
ish. It is 2 miles long, and from a mile to a quarter
of a mile broad; in the north end it is about 12
fathoms deep. The second is Loch More, in the
highland part of the same parish ; it is about 1 J
mile long, by about half-a-mile broad, and deep. The
third is the loch of Watten, about \k mile long, and
from one-half to a quarter of a mile broad, but in
general rather shallow. Then in order are the lochs
of Hempriggs, Westfield, Stempster-Bower, Ran-
gag, Stempster-Latberon, Alterwall, Harland, Dun-
net, Mey, Duren, Kelm, Shurary, Rheard, Yarrows,
and a groupe of lochlets, noticed above, in the par-
ish of Halkirk. All these lakes, rivers, and burns
abound with trout and eels ; and in the loch of Cal-
der there are char about six inches long. The
western part of this county is hilly, and chiefly
adapted for the rearing of cattle and sheep; but
towards the east it is almost a uniform plain.
The Morven, Morbhein, or Berriedale mountains,
run along the Latheron coast, to the boundary of
the parish of Wick. Another range of high hills
stretches from the Morven mountains along the
boundary with Sutherland, through the parishes of
Reay and Halkirk on the west, to the North sea.
The Morven, or Berriedale mountains, are princi-
pally occupied in sheep-pasture. Morven, Scariben,
and the Maiden-Pap mountains, are very high and
steep; and towards their summit — which is from
1,500 to 3,000 feet above the level of the sea-
there is nothing but bare rock. The other moun-
tains are clothed with heather, ling, and deer-hair.
The ridges of hills, or high ground, in the parishes
of Wick, Bower, Watten, Dunnet, Olrig, Thurso,
Reay, and Halkirk, are principally green pasture,
except the summits of some hills and knolls covered
with stunted heather, which have been, from time
immemorial, used as common pasture for the horses,
cattle, sheep, geese, and swine of the town-lands in
their vicinity. This is the only ground to which
the denomination of downs is applicable in this
county. The extent of deep peat-bogs, including
peat-moors of every description, is very considerable;
amounting to nearly one-half the extent of the
county. Large tracts of this soil, between the base
of hills in the interior of the county, are flat and
level; and in the parish of Canisbay, not far even
from the sea-shore, they are of great depth, and so
swampy that cattle cannot travel over some parts
of them. The only ground known by the name of
forest is the ridge of mountains dividing Caithness
from Sutherland, terminating at the Ord of Caith-
ness, which is a part of the Langwell estate. In
this district red deer and roe, as well as black cattle,
were formerly maintained ; but it is now occupied as
a sheep-farm, and stocked with the Cheviot breed of
sheep. Its extent may be about 15,000 acres of
mountain, covered with heather, heath, ling, deer-
hair, and wild cotton.
In a common near the crown-lands of Scrabster,
in the vicinity of the town of Thurso, some frag-
ments of a coaly nature were discovered; and search
was made in consequence for coal, but without suc-
cess. On the Earl of Caithness's estate, near Bar-
rogil castle, a thin stratum of coaly black stone is
found on a level with the sea, which burns with a
clear flame for some time, but does not consume to
ashes. A seam of coal, resembling small English
coal, was found in the parish of Halkirk. About
70 years ago an English company employed two men
for a season at the hill of Achinnarrass, working pits
184
CAITHNESS.
or sbafts for lead-ore. They dug up several tons of
it i but although it was allowed to be of good qua-
lity, the work was discontinued. In the year 1807,
some ditchers, in the employ of Sir John Sinclair,
found pieces of solid lead-ore in the bottom of a
ditch on the east side of the hill of Skinnet. There
is shell-marl in many bogs and lakes in the parishes
of Halkirk, Olrig, Bower, Wick, Watten, Latheron,
and Reay ; and clay-marl in the parishes of Cannis-
bay, Latheron, and Thurso, of excellent quality.
The greatest quantity of shell-marl, and the most
easy of access, is in the lake or loch of Westfield,
in the parish of Halkirk. Freestone is found in the
greatest perfection and abundance in Caithness. The
soil of the arable land and green pasture, from the
east bank of the water of Forss, on the north coast
to Assery ; thence across by the loch of Calder, and
Halkirk, on the river of Thurso; thence along that
river to Dale; thence eastward by Achatibster,
Toftingal, Bylbster, Bilbster, Thurster, &c. to the
German ocean at Hempriggs; thence along the east
coast to the water of Wester, and along that rivu-
let, by Bower, Altervvall, and Thurdistoft, to the
sea at Castle-hill, on the north coast ; abounds with
clay, incumbent on a horizontal rock, in the western
part, and hard till, schistus, or gravel, on the east-
ern part of it. In the parish of Reay, westward
from the banks of the water of Forss, the arable
land and green pasture is in general composed of a
dark earth, mixed with a crystally sand, which may-
be denominated a black loam, incumbent, in general,
on a grey freestone, &c, not so tenacious of mois-
ture as the clay district incumbent on a horizontal
rock. This species of soil is productive of corn and
grass, both natural and artificial. The same kind of
soil, namely, a dark loam, abounds in the parishes of
Dunnet and Cannisbay, and a part of the parish of
Wick, to the water or river of Wester on the
east coast. Wear the shore it is incumbent on a red
freestone., in many cases with perpendicular seams,
which carry off the moisture ; and at a greater dis-
tance from the shore towards the peat mosses and
moors, the loam is incumbent on a gritty red gravel
or schistus. The soil along the shore is deep, and
capable of producing good crops. Along the sea-
shore, from Hempriggs to the Ord of Caithness,
comprehending the coast-side of part of the parish
of Wick, and the parish of Latheron, the arable
land and green pasture is chiefly composed of a dark
earth, mixed with gritty sand and fragments of rock:
it may be termed a stony hazel loam, sharp and pro-
ductive, incumbent on a blue whin, or gritty rock of
vertical seams, or seams of considerable declivity,
and dry. Upon the straths or valleys of the remain-
ing district of the county, comprehending the high-
land parts of the parishes of Latheron, Halkirk, and
Watten, the soil is variable; near the banks of rivers
and burns there is some haugh or meadow-ground,
composed of sand and clay, or soil that may be
called alluvial. Farther back the soil is a dark
loam, of peat-earth and gravel, and in some partial
spots consists of clay The sea-coast of Caithness,
with the exception of the bays of Sandside, Dunnet,
Duncansby, and Keiss, is a bold rocky shore, from
the Ord all along the coast, till you reach the point
of Drumholasten. Sandside bay is about half-a-
lnile broad, with some sandy links a little above
flood-mark, about the kirk of Reay, abounding with
rabbits, and producing excellent pasture. Dunnet
bay is about 3 miles across, from the Castle-bill to
the hill of Dunnet on the east side, and it extends
about a mile of sandy links up the country to Green-
land. This tract may be computed at three square
miles, principally a bare barren sand, which produces
nothing but tufts of bent grass — a plant which
spreads, and inns prevents the usual drifting of the
sand, if it is preserved. Reits, or Keiss bay, is a
low sandy shore for 4 miles from Keiss to Ackergill,
and in some parts the sand has drifted half-a-mile up
the country. There is also a small extent of sandy
links at Fresvvick bay, and at Duncansby, where
there are great quantities of sea-shells driven in
every stormy tide.
For three .fourths of the year the wind in Caith-
ness blows from the west or north-west; and in the
winter, spring, and autumn, there are frequent hard
gales from that quarter. There being no mountains
or high land on the north side of the county, where
it bounds with the Northern ocean, the inclemency
of the weather in the winter and spring is felt more
severely here than in the neighbouring counties of
Sutherland and Ross. From the beginning of May
to the middle of June the prevailing wind is usually
from the north-west, with a bleak cloudy sky, which
checks vegetation much. From the end of June to
September the wind is variable from the south-west
to the south-east, and but seldom northerly. Dur-
ing this season vegetation makes, perhaps, a more
rapid progress than it does in counties enjoying, on
the whole, a better climate. This, perhaps, may be
partly accounted for by the check given to vegeta-
tion in May and the beginning of June. It is the
general opinion that no county in Scotland has more
frequent and heavy rains than the county of Caith-
ness,— the county of Argyle, and the western parts ot
Inverness, Ross, and Sutherland excepted. During
the months of October, November, and December,
rain is generally frequent and heavy. About the
end of December, and sometimes earlier, snow and
hard frost commence.
Captain Henderson furnishes the following inter-
esting account of the trades and manufactures
which existed in this remote district in the latter
half of the last century ; — " Exclusive of the shoe-
makers who resided in the towns of Thurso and
Wick, there were one, two, or more itinerant shoe-
makers in every parish, who went to the farmers'
houses, and made shoes, or rather brogues, for the
whole family, including the farm-servants, at the
rate of 2d. per pair; the shoemaker and his ap-
prentice being fed in the family during the time
they were so employed. The farmer found the
leather, hemp, and rosin. The leather being gen-
erally tanned by himself cost him very little ; and,
upon the whole, all the family were furnished with
shoes at from Is. to Is. 6d. per pair. At that time I
the toun shoemakers sold what was called dressed
or curried leather shoes, at from 2s. to 3s. per
pair. Now — 1809 — there are few or none of these
itinerant shoemakers. There are no woods or
shrubberies in the county to furnish bark for the
farmer ; taxes are high, and tax-gatherers more vi-
gilant. The country people, both tenants and ser-
vants, purchase their shoes — no doubt of a better
quality than brogues, but not more durable — at from
7s. 6d. to 10s. per pair, for men's shoes, and 5s. 6d.
to 6s. 6d. for women's shoes. Farm-servants pay
from 20s. to 25s. for a pair of boots to follow the
plough, whereas, in 17b'0, they wore rillins in the
spring-season. These were made of an oval piece
of raw, or untanned horse or cow-leather, drawn to-
gether round the foot by thongs of the same mate-
rials, through holes made in the margin of the skin
or piece of hide ; and being thus faced on the upper
part of the foot, with the hair towards the toot,
they were warm and flexible, and they kept the
mould of the ploughed land from annoying the feet.
A pair of these might be valued at 4d., and would
last five or six weeks. Weavers were settled through
the country for weaving the simple fabrics prepared
CAITHNESS.
185
by the farmers' wives and servants for their own and
their husbands' and children's apparel. Every far-
mer, and even cottager, had a small flock of sheep of
the native breed ; these annually supplied a fleece of
good wool, which the gudewife and her family carded
and spun into yarn, either for blankets, for scourens
(coarse flannel), or black greys (a kind of broad-
cloth), or for Highland tartan, for the wear of the
gudeman, herself, and family, and perhaps some of it
for sale to the servants, in part of their wages, or to
others. The weaver generally charged from 2d. to
4d. per yard for weaving it ; and a peck of oat-meal
was given as a bounty, for warping the web, and
preparing it for the loom. When the web was re-
turned from the weaver, the gudewife got it washed
in warm water, and if it was necessarv to full it,
that operation was thus performed : — The house-
door was taken off the hinges, and laid on the floor ;
the web was then laid on it hot out of the water ;
then three or four women sat down round it, on a
little straw, at equal distances, and all being ready,
l)3re-legged, by the signal of a song, each applied her
soles to the web ; and they continued pelling and
tumbling it on the door with their feet until the web
was considered sufficiently fulled ; then it was
stretched out to dry, and was ready for the family-
tailor, or for sale, as the case might be. If the tailor
was wanted, he was sent for, and maintained in the
family until the clothes were made; and for his
trouble, he received annually a quantity of victual,
bear, or oat-meal, as might have previously been
agreed upon. If the cloth was for the market,
blankets sold at lOd. per yard; scourens at 8d. to
9d. ; cloth at Is. ; and tartan, if the dyes were good,
at Is. to Is. 4d. per yard. The gudewife was gen-
erally competent to dye the woollen yarn, either of
a blue, red, green, yellow, or black colour, as might
be required. That simplicity of life and industry are
now gone, and instead of these native fabrics, no-
thing will do but broad -cloth from Leeds, and blan-
kets and flannels from the southern markets. In
those days, coopers and tinkers were employed to
make household vessels and spoons ; now these in
most cases are superseded by crockery ware and
metal spoons. It may be proper to add, that in those
days,, linen was little used by the labouring class of
society, and hence rheumatism was unknown. In
modern times, every farm-servant wears linen; and as
the heat of youth declines, rheumatism commences."
Mechanics are now settled throughout the county,
for making farming-utensils, as carts, ploughs, bar-
rows, thrashing-machines, &c, &c, to supply the
farmers. A considerable number of women and girls
are employed in the town of Thurso, plaiting straw
for ladies' bonnets. A few of them make up bon-
nets ; but the greater part of the straw-plait is sent
to London, whence the prepared straw is imported.
The straw-plaiters earn at this employment, from
3s. to 5s. per week. About sixty years ago, while
we were at peace with Sweden and Denmark, and
Caithness victual sold at from 8s. to 13s. 4d. per
boll of bear or oat-meal, several cargoes of victual
were annually exported to Norway, and in return,
fii-timber and iron were imported, at an easy rate.
At that time, Norway fir was retailed in this county
at 8d. to lOd. per solid foot, and iron at Id. to l£d.
per pound. At a more remote period, malt was ex-
ported from the port of Thurso to Norway, and
timber, iron, hemp, and flax, imported in return ;
and there are even some traditional accounts that a
few vessels from the port of Thurso traded to the
West Indies and to the Baltic. The port of Thurso
is well-calculated for foreign commerce, as it has a
good and safe roadstead at Scrabster, and the access
to the dry harbour in the river is capable of great
improvement. As soon as a vessel gets under weigh
from this port, the German ocean, or Atlantic, is
open to her. and the Pentland frith is no longer a
terror to seafaring men. From 1780 to 1800, the mer-
chants of Leith, Montrose, and Aberdeen, sent several
cargoes of dressed flax annually, to agents employed
by them among the Caithness shopkeepers. These
agents gave out the flax to be spun, by the young
women, through the county ; for which they re-
ceived about 10d. per spindle, or 2^d. per hank of
1,200 threads. The agents had Is. per spindle from
their employers ; the difference — being i<). per hank
— was their commission for risk and trouble. This
flax was commonly spun to 2 or 2£ hank of yarn
from the pound of flax, and the yarn so spun was re-
turned to the merchants of Leith, &c, and there
made into coloured thread for the foreign markets.
The principal branch of commerce which now ex-
ists in this county, is the herring-fishery along the
coast of the parishes of Wick and Latheron, where,
from 150,000 to 200,000 barrels offish, are annually
cured, and exported to the London, Bristol, Liver-
pool, Leith, and Irish markets. The fishing com-
mences in July, and seldom lasts above six weeks ;
the number of boats sometimes amounts to 1,200.
The curing is performed at Wick by women, and af-
fords employment to 5,000. A few red herrings are
also smoked. Great numbers of seals were formerly
killed on the coast, but they are less sought after
now. The cod-fishery has also been for many
years carried on in the havens of this county.
A quantity of kelp used to be made from sea-weed
along the Caithness coast, and sent coastwise to
Leith, Newcastle, &c, for the use of the glass-
houses, soap-makers, &c. There are a few sloops,
of from 40 to 70 tons burden, which sail from the
harbours of Thurso and Wick, to Leith, and occa-
sionally to Sunderland, Newcastle, and London ;
they export fish, kelp, and oats, but more frequently
convey mechanics and labourers, in quest of work,
to the southern counties. By these vessels there
is imported broad-cloth to supply the want of the
cloth formerly manufactured in every family from
the wool of their little flocks; cotton-cloth and
linens from Glasgow; tea, sugar, snuff, tobacco, and
other articles from the London and Leith markets,
and hardware goods from Sheffield, and Birming-
ham, &c, all which are retailed by the shopkeepers
of the county.
By statutes of David II. the weights and measures
of the county of Caithness were the standards of
Scotland. By the ' Regiam Majestatem,' chap. 14.
" It is statute be King David, that ane comon and
equal weight, quhilk is called the weicht of Caith-
ness— pondus Cathanise — in buying and selling, sail
be keeped and vsed be all men within this realm of
Scotland." The circumstance, that the weight of
Caithness should be the general standard, is not at
all to be wondered at, for the town of Thurso, in
Caithness, was formerly the great mart for trade be.
tween Scotland and Norway, Sweden, Denmark, and
the powers of the Baltic, and in consequence thereof,
the weights established in that town, might, with
great propriety, become the standards of the king-
dom. Previous to the late act the tenantry through-
out the county used a vessel — by them called a half-
firlot — containing two pecks, and they gave eight fills
of it for a boll of bear or oats. In measuring corn
with it, the vessel was heaped ; but in measuring
meal, the roller was used to take off all above the
stave. The regular corn-measure of the county
was either by firlots or by half-bolls. The firlot
contained one bushel and a half, and three quarts,
Winchester measure, that is 7A per cent, above the
standard. Bear, oats, and malt, were measured by
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186
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this standard ; but the boll of wheat was under-
stood to be only two-third9 of the bear boll ; oat-
meal was sold by the boll of 136 lbs. Dutch, or
eight stone and a half, and bear-meal at nine stone
or 144 tbs. The Dutch pound was 17A ounces
avoirdupois. All liquids, the produce of the county,
were measured by the pint of 18 gills, or ^ above
the regular standard ; but the pint of spirits was 16
gills. Wool was sold by the stone of 24 tbs. Dutch.
This county, and the shire of Sutherland, were,
from 1756, until the year 1807, considered as one
sheriffdom ; but there is now a sheriff-depute for
each county. Until the passing of the Reform
act, Caithness was coupled with the isle of Bute
on the south-west of Scotland, and each county
returned a representative alternately. This half-
species of franchise was felt to be a grievance that
ought to be remedied. In fact, Bute and Caith-
ness were so distant from each other that no
common interest could be supposed to exist be-
tween them, more than between Cornwall and
Caithness at the two extremities of the British
isle. The only other instances of such political
representation in Scotland, were, Kinross and Clack-
mannan ; and Nairn and Cromarty ; but these were
contiguous districts, which had a common interest
in every local political occurrence, and might there-
fore, with much more propriety, be incorporated to-
gether. The towns of Wick, Kirkwall, Dornock,
Dingwall, Tain, and Cromarty, return one member
to parliament. Small debt courts are held at Wick,
Thurso, and Lybster. There were two county news-
papers published till lately in Caithness. The county
of Caithness is divided into ten parishes, forming one
presbytery. The two presbyteries of Caithness and
Sutherland are erected into one synod. In ancient
times the two counties formed one bishopric, known
under the name of the bishopric of Caithness. — Po-
pulation, in 1801,22,609; in 1811, 23,419; in 1821,
30,238; in 1831, 34,500. Value of real property
as assessed in 1815, £35,469. Houses inhabited in
1831, 6,036. Families employed in agriculture in
1831, 3,580; in trade and handicrafts, 1,487; not
comprised in either of these classes, 1,837- Cooper-
age appears to employ the greatest number of hands
in the second of these classes. The number of pa-
rochial schools, in 1834, was 10, attended by 747 ;
of schools not parochial, 86, attended by 3,480 ■
total 4,227. — The prevailing name in Caithness is
Sinclair; and the county gives the title of Earl to
the family of Sinclair, descended from the French
St. Clair. The English language has always been
spoken in Caithness, except among the hills on the
borders of Sutherlandshire, where the Gaelic is
used. The names of many localities, however, are
evidently Norwegian. — The most ancient castles in
this county are those of Girnigoe and Sinclair,
erected by the thanes of Caithness, on a bold nar-
row promontory separated from the coast by a chan-
nel of little breadth, on the north side of Noss-head,
near Wick. Ackergill tower, half-a-mile west from
castle Girnigoe, a very strong and ancient fortalice,
was built by the Keiths, Earls Marshal. It is a
square tower of several stories of single apartments
each, with projecting turrets in the angles. There
are also Mowat's castle of Freswick, Castle Sinclair
of Keiss, and the castle of Old Wick, or Oliphant's
castle, 2 miles south from Wick, all ruins on the east
coast of Caithness. Forse castle in ruins, the castle
of Dunbeath still habitable, and Berriedale castle
in ruins, are on the south-east coast. Upon the
north coast are : Barrogill castle, the Earl of Caith-
ness's residence, at a small distance from the shore;
Thurso castle, the seat of Sir John Sinclair, bart.,
built in 1616, and repaired in 1808; the ruins of a
castle at Scrabster, a mile west of Thurso, once the
residence of the bishops of Caithness ; a small castle
at Brims, still habitable ; and the ruins of a castle at
Downreay. There are also the ruins of Brawl castle,
and Durlet castle, on the river Thurso, in the interior
of the county. The modern houses of Sandside,
Westfield, Castlehill, Freswick, Keiss, Hempriggs,
Stircock, Lybster, Swinzie, and Nottingham, along
the coast, or near it, and of Barrock-house, Standstill,
Watten, Bilbster, Hopeville, Stempster, Tister,
Dale, and Calder, in the interior of the county ; are
commodiously built, and in some cases handsomely
finished. Among the antiquities of this county are
to be found a variety of those singular structures
called Picts' houses. They are generally of a cir-
cular form, in the shape of a truncated cone, with
walls of 9 or 10 feet in thickness, and surrounded
by a deep ditch and a rampart.
CALDER (EAST), or Calder-Clere, an an-
cient rectory in the shire of Edinburgh ; united in
1750 to the parish of Kirk-Newton : which see.
The church, which is now demolished, was dedi-
cated to St. Cuthbert. The manor of Calder was
by Malcolm IV. granted to Randulph de Clere ;
and from him it became known by the narrre of
Calder-Clere, to distinguish it from Calder-Comitis,
the adjoining manor, the property of the EarJ of
Fife. The barony of Calder-Clere was forfeited
during the succession-war ; and was granted, in 1306,
by Robert I. to James Douglas, of Lothian, the
progenitor of the Earls of Morton. The Earl of
Morton takes his title from the lands of Mortoune
in this parish. After the Reformation, the Earl of
Morton — who was now Baron of Calder-Clere — ac-
quired the advowson of the church, and with it the
right of the monks of Kelso to the tenth of the
multures of the mill of Calder. In 1541, the barony
of Calder-Clere was confirmed by James V. to James
Earl of Morton, without the advowson of the church.
In 1564, James, his successor — the well-known Mor-
ton, who fell under the axe of the law in 1581 — ■
obtained from the queen a confirmation of all his
lands, with the barony of Calder-Clere, and the ad-
vowson of the churches and chapels. — The village
of East-Calder lies about one mile east of Mid-Cal-
der, the south road from Glasgow to Edinburgh
passing through it.
CALDER (MID), a parish in the shire of Edin-
burgh. It extends from north to south about 7
miles ; its greatest breadth is nowhere above 3. It
is bounded on the north by Kirkliston ; on the east
and south-east by East-Calder and Kirk-Newton ; on
the south-west by West-Calder ; and on the west
by Livingston. The surface is generally level, and
the soil fertile though light and dry. Calder wood
still covers a considerable extent of ground, though
far less than formerly. There are everywhere in-
dications of coal ; also plenty of freestone ; and, in
East-Calder, the Earl of Morton has a quarry of
limestone, the stratum of which is 60 feet thick.
Besides these minerals, there is excellent ironstone
in this district. On the estate of Letham is a power-
ful sulphureous spring, similar to that of Harrow-
gate. To the west of the town, on Muirhousetouu
water, stands Calder-house, the seat of Lord Tor-
phiclien. A portrait of John Knox — generally be-
lieved to be genuine — is hung up in the hall or gal-
lery of this house, where, it is asserted by some, he
dispensed the ordinance of the Lord's supper lor the
first time in Scotland after the Reformation.* — The
* On the back of Lord Torphiehen's picture there is written
" Mr. John Knox : The first sacrameDt of the super given in
Scotland, after the Reformation, was dispensed hy him in this
hall." This is not true ; for it is proved that the first time the
sacrament of the supper was dispensed in the reformed way in
Scotlaud, was in the cabtleuf St: Andrew'd, a. p. 1M7, (ftrCrie
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187
CAL
house of Green-bank, near the village, is celebrated
as the birth-place of John Spottiswood, archbishop
of St. Andrews, who was born here in 1565. Popu-
lation, in 1801, 1,014; in 1831, 1,489. Assessed
property, in 1815, £7,500. Houses in 1831, 225.—
This parish is in the presbytery of Linlithgow, and
svnod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, Lord
Torphichen. Stipend £158 6s. 8d., with glebe of
the value of £64 10s. Schoolmaster's salary £34
4s. 4id., with £150 fees; £11 2s. 2$d. yearly for
teaching church-music, and other emoluments; mak-
ing a total of £235 18s. 7d. Pupils 130. There
were 3 private schools within the parish in 1834, at-
tended by about 130 scholars. — The village of Mid-
Calder is 11J miles west-south-west of Edinburgh,
and 8i east of Whitburn, on the south road from
Glasgow to Edinburgh. It is pleasantly situated on
an eminence between the water of Linnhouse and
the Almond. It has two fairs, viz., on the 2d Tues-
day in March, and the 2d Tuesday of October.
CALDER (WEST), a parish in Mid-Lothian, in
length 10, and in average breadth 5^ miles ; bounded
on the north by Mid-Calder and Livingston ; on the
west by Whitburn ; on the south by Carnwath ; and
on the east by Glencross. The southern part,
which borders on Lanarkshire, consists of high and
moorish grounds for the most part incapable of cul-
tivation. From the general elevation of the ground,
being nearly 500 feet above the level of the sea,
it is cold and moist, exposed to storms of wind
and rain from the south and south-west. The
greater part of the parish lies upon coal, and there
is plenty of excellent limestone ; ironstone also is
wrought. In the southern extremity stands an old
castle, said to have been fortified by Cromwell ; and
at Castle-Craig are the remains of a Roman camp.
Population, in 1801, 1,185; in 1813, 1,617. Assessed
property £7,197. Houses 311.— The village of
West Calder is 4 miles south-west of Mid-Calder,
and 7 north of Wilsontown, on the road from Edin-
burgh to Lanark. — This parish is in the presbytery
ot Linlithgow, and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale.
Patron, John Drysdale, Esq. Stipend £15S 6s. 7d.,
with glebe of the value of £23. Church built in
1646 ; sittings 331. — A United Secession church was
built in 1795 ; sittings 498. Stipend £100, with a
manse and glebe — Schoolmaster's salary £34
There were 3 private schools within this parish in
1835 ; and the total number of children at school
was 197. — According to Chalmers, the present par-
ishes of Mid-Calder and West-Calder were of old
comprehended in the parish and barony of Calder-
Comitis. West-Calder received this name, as lying
westward of the river Calder; and it was distin-
guished by the name of Calder-Comitis, as early as
the 12th century. This extensive manor of Calder-
Comitis was possessed by the Earls of Fife as early
as the reign of Malcolm IV ; and by them it was en-
joyed as low down as the reign of David II. It then
passed to Sir William Douglas of Douglas, who gave
it in free marriage, with Eleanor, his sister, to Sir
James de Sandilands, in 1349. This grant was con-
firmed by Duncan, Earl of Fife, and by David II.
From that marriage sprung the family of Sandilands,
who acquired the estates of the knights of St. John,
at the Reformation, with the peerage of Torphichen ;
and who still retain the barony of West-Calder,
with the advowson of the church. Before the
Reformation, there was a chapel in the upper part
of this extensive district, which gave name to
p. 50, lsted.) The account given by Knox, in his History of the
Reformation, seems to imply that he dispensed this ordinance
in the West country before he did it in Calder-house. These
facts cast a degree of discredit on the authenticity nf the pic-
tore, although no doubt exists of tile intimacy of Sir James
Sandilands, the ancestor of Lord Torphichen, with the reformer.
Chapeltown, about a mile east from West-Calder ;
this chapel remained till the reign of Charles I. In
1637, John, Lord Torphichen, was served heir to his
father in the barony of Calder, and to the patronage
of the church. In 1646, this large parish was divided
into two districts, which were named Mid-Calder,
and West-Calder. The old church was now appro-
priated to Mid-Calder ; while the new church was
erected in the upper district, which has given rise to
the kirk-town of West-Calder.
CALDER, or Cawdor, a parish situated chiefly
in the county of Nairn, but of which a small part
lies in that of Inverness. Its figure is irregular; but
its greatest length is 16 miles, and greatest breadth
6|. From a survey made in *782, it contains 26;000
acres, of which 18,000 at least were moor and moss.
Its superficial area has recently been estimated at
35,313 acres. The soil of the arable part is thin
and sharp, but fertile. The low lands are liable to
be overflowed by the rivulet of Calder and the wa-
ter of Nairn. The Findhorn, abounding with sal-
mon, runs through the upper part of the parish. A
considerable part of the district is covered with
natural forests of oak, ash, alder, and other trees.
Population, in 1801, 1,179; in 1831, 1,184. As-
sessed property, in 1815, £4,975. Houses, in 1831,
266, whereof 226 were in Nairnshire — The village
of Calder is 5i miles south-west of Nairn. A fair
is held here on the 2d Tuesday in March — This
parish is in the presbytery of Nairn, and synod of
Moray. Stipend £156 0s. 8d., with glebe of the
value of £7. Unappropriated teinds £15 5s. 6d.
Patron, the Earl of Cawdor. Church built in 1619;
altered in 1830; sittings 681. Schoolmaster's salary
£34 4s. 4id. There are two private schools.
At a short distance to the eastward of the church
is the house of Calder, a seat of Lord Cawdor. The
Thanes of Calder, as constables of the king's house,
resided in the castle of Nairn, and had a country-
seat at what is now called Old Calder, half-a-mile
north of the present seat, vestiges whereof still re-
main. But by a royal license, dated 6th of August,
1454, they built the present tower of Calder — now
Cawdor — which gives the title of Baron to a branch
of the ancient and noble family of Argyle.* It
has formerly been a place of great strength. The
walls of the tower are of great thickness, arched at the
top, and surrounded with battlements. The rest of
the house is of later erection, though far from modern.
Mr. Fraser Tytler thus describes this interesting
relic of feudal ages: " The whole of Cawdor castle
is peculiarly calculated to impress the mind with a
retrospect of past ages, feudal customs, and deeds of
darkness. Its iron-grated doors, its ancient tapestry,
hanging loosely over secret doors and hidden pas-
sages, its winding staircases, its rattling drawbridge,
all conspire to excite the most gloomy imagery in the
mind. It was indeed a fertile spot for the writers of
our modern romances. The mysteries of Udolpho
would vanish in contemplation of the less perspicu-
ous intricacies in the castle of Cawdor. Among
these must be mentioned the secret apartment which
so effectually concealed Lord Lovat from the sight
of his pursuers. Never was any thing so artfully
contrived. It is impossible for the most discerning
eye, without previous information, to discover the
place of his retreat. And even after being told that
a place of this nature existed in the castle, I doubt
whether it could be discovered. It is placed imme-
diately beneath the rafters in one part of the roof of
the castle. By means of a ladder you are conducted
* In 1510, Muriella Calder, the heiress of this castle and
estate, was carried off by the Campbells, and married — without
much deference probably to her own taste—to the second son
of the Earl of Arg-yle.
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b> the suli of one part of a sloping roof into a kind
of channel between two, such as frequently serves
to convey rain-water into pipes for a reservoir; by
proceeding along this channel, you arrive at the foot
of a stone. staircase, which leads up one side of the
roof to the right, and is so artfully contrived as to
appear a part of the ornaments of the building
when beheld at a distance. At the end of this
staircase is a room with a single window near the
floor. It is said Lord Lovat used to be conducted
to this place when his pursuers approached, the lad-
der being removed as soon as he ascended. When
the search was over; and the inquirers gone, the
ladder was replaced, by which means he lived com-
fortably with the family, and might long have re-
mained secure, if he had not quitted the place of his
retreat. A remarkable tradition respecting the
foundation of this castle is worth notice, because
circumstances still remain which plead strongly for
its truth. It is said the original proprietor was di-
rected by a dream to load an ass with gold, turn it
loose, and, following its footsteps, build a castle
wherever the ass rested. In an age when dreams
were considered as the immediate oracles of heaven,
and their suggestions implicitly attended to, it is
natural to suppose the ass — as tradition relates — re-
ceived its burden and its liberty. After strolling
about from one thistle to another, it arrived at last
beneath the branches of a hawthorn tree, where,
atigued with the weight upon its back, it knelt
down to rest. The space round the tree was im-
mediately cleared for building, the foundation laid,
and a tower erected : but the tree was preserved,
and remains at this moment a singular memorial of
superstition attended by advantage. The situation
of the castle accidentally proved the most favourable
that could be chosen ; the country round it is fertile,
productive of trees, in a wholesome spot; and a
river, with a clear and rapid current, flows beneath
its walls. The trunk of the tree, with the knotty
protuberances of it's branches, is still shown in a
vaulted apartment at the bottom of the principal
tower. Its roots branch out beneath the floor, and
its top penetrates through the vaulted arch of stone
above, in such a manner as to make it appear, be-
yond dispute, that the tree stood, as it now does,
before the tower was erected. For ages it has been
a custom for guests in the family to assemble round
it, and drink, ' Success to the hawthorn ;' that is to
say, in other words, * Prosperity to the house of
Cawdor!'" King Duncan's chain armour is pre-
served here ; but it is by no means established be-
yond controversy that it was here that monarch was
murdered. There are in fact four different localities
fixed on by different antiquarians and topographers
as the scene of that bloody deed: viz., Glammis
castle, a hut near Forres, Inverness castle, and
Cawdor castle.
CALDER (The), a small river in Renfrewshire,
which has its rise in the moorlands on the borders of
Ayrshire, and running an easterly course of some
miles, intersects the parish of Lochwinnoch, and falls
into the loch of that name, about a mile below the
village.
CALDER (The Sodth), a small river in Lan-
arkshire, which rises in Elrig inuir in the parish of
Kilbride, and running a north-east course, falls into
the Clyde, on the south bank, near Dahlowie. It is
in the first part of its course called Park burn ; and
the Rotten Calder on being joined by the Rotten
burn. There are several falls or cascades in its course,
and its banks are finely wooded. Mr. Montgomery,
in a paper in the Prize Essays of the Highland So-
ciety, [vol. vi. p. 434,] says: "Greenstone dykes, in
passing through the porphyry of this elevated and
hilly district, give rise to many waterfalls. The
porphyry decomposes more readily than the green-
stone ; and the streams, crossing the course of the
dykes, carry away the porphyry on their lower side,
whilst the greenstone much longer resists the action
of the water, and protects the porphyry above. In
some places the streams run parallel to the dykes.
A beautiful instance of this may be seen at Reeking
Linn, a very wild and romantic fall in the Calder.
The Calder here runs for several hundred yards
parallel to a dyke of very fine-grained greenstone ;
then, suddenly bending, crosses it, and forms the
linn or spout. The banks of the stream are high,
and overhung by wood. " The Wishaw and Coltness
railway is conducted over the valley of the Calder,
at the height of 120 feet above the surface of the
river, by a maguiiicent viaduct nearly two furlongs
in length, composed of stone piers and abutments,
and timber beams on frame work secured in metal
sockets. It was designed by Mr. Macneil of London,
and executed at an expense under ±'13,000.
CALDER (The North), another rivulet in Lan-
arkshire, which issues from Black Loch in the parish
of East Monkland, and falls into the Clyde, on the north
bank, a little below the mouth of the South Calder.
CALDER (Loch). See Caithness.
CALDER. See C adder.
CALDRON LINN. See The Devon.
CALEDONIANS, an ancient designation of the
natives of the northern part of the island of Britain.
The Celtic origin of the aborigines of North Britain
is admitted even by Pinkerton; but he contends that
the Caledonians of Tacitus were not descendants
of this race, but Goths from Scandinavia, who settled
in Scotland about 200 E. c. He allows the iden-
tity of the Caledonians and Picts, though he had —
before he completely examined the subject — held the
opinion that the Picts were a new race who had
come in upon the Caledonians in the third century
and expelled them, and that the Caledonians were
Cumric Britons; but finding Tacitus, Eumenius,
Ammianus Marcellinus, and Bede, opposed, as he
imagines, to this idea, he was induced to alter his
opinion, and to adopt the theory that the Picts or
Caledonians were of Gothic origin. This hypothe-
sis, however, will not bear the test of examination.
It is true that Tacitus alludes to the large limbs and
the red hair of the Caledonians as indications of
their German origin; but such marks of resemblance
are not sufficient of themselves to establish the
point. The decisive evidence of speech — by which
the affinity of nations can alone be clearly ascer-
tained— is here wanting; and as Tacitus, who often
refers to the difference of language when treating of
the Germans, is silent respecting any similarity be-
tween the language of the Caledonians and Ger-
mans, it must be presumed that no such resemblance
existed, and consequently that the Caledonians were
not of German or Gothic origin. The following
account of the Caledonians, and of their southern
neighbours the Maeatae, from a fragment of Dio pre-
served by Xiphilin, certainly coincides better with
the descriptions of the Britons of the south, found
in the pages of Caesar and Tacitus, than with those
given by the same writers of the Germans. " Of
the (northern) Britons there are two great nations
called Caledonii and Maeatae ; for the rest are gener-
ally referred to these. The Maeatae dwell near that
wall which divides the island into two parts. The
Caledonians inhabit beyond them. They both pos-
sess rugged and dry mountains, and desert plains full
of marshes. They have neither castles nor towns;
nor do they cultivate the ground, but live on their
flocks and hunting, and the fruits of some trees; not
eating fish, though extremely plenteous. They live
CALEDONIANS.
189
in tents naked, and without buskins. Wives they
have in common, and breed up their children in com-
mon. The general form of government is democra-
tic. They are addicted to robbery, tight in cars,
have small and swift horses. Their infantry are
remarkable for speed in running, and for firmness in
standing. Their armour consists of a shield and a
short spear, in the lower end of which is a brazen
apple, whose sound, when struck, may terrify the
enemy. They have also daggers. Famine, cold,
and all sorts of labour they can bear, for they will
even stand in their marshes for many days to the
neck in water, and in the woods will live on the
bark and roots of trees. They prepare a certain
kind of food on all occasions, of which taking only
a bit the size of a bean, they feel neither hunger nor
thirst. Such is Britain, (he had, in a previous part
of his work, given a description of the island,) and
such are the inhabitants of that part which wars
against the Romans." [Apud Pinkerton 's Enquiry,
vol. i. Appendix, No. IV.] — With regard to the tra-
dition referred to by Bede, as current in his time,
that the Caledonians or Picts came from the north
of Germany, it cannot, even if well-founded, prove
their Gothic origin ; for, as Father Innes observes, —
" though we should suppose that the Caledonians or
Picts had their origin from the northern parts of the
European continent, as Tacitus seems to conjecture,
and, as it was reported to Bede, that would not
hinder the Caledonians from having originally had
the same language as the Britons ; since it appears
that the Celtic language — whereof the British is a
dialect — was in use in ancient times in the furthest
extremities of the north ; at least the Celts or Celto-
Scvths were extended to these parts; for Strabo
tells us that the ancient Greek writers called all
the northern nations Celto-Scyths, or Scyths ; and
Tacitus assures us, that in his time the Gallic
tongue was in use among some of these northern
people, such as the Gothini; and the British tongue
among others, as the iEstii." [Critical Essay, vol. i.
p. 72.] — Mr. Pinkerton himself admits that the Celts
were the ancient inhabitants of Europe, of which
they appear, he says, to have held the most before
their expulsion by the other nations of Asia ; and in
proof of the great extent of their possessions in the
north, he refers to the Promontorium Celticas of
Pliny, which, from the situation he gives it, and the
names around, he conjectures must have been near
Moscow. The appellation of Picti, by which the
Caledonians to the north of the Clyde and the Forth
came to be distinguished by the Romans in the 3d
century, made Stillingfleet and other writers suppose
that the Picts were a distinct people, who had then
recently arrived in Scotland ; but this mistake has
been so fully exposed by Innes, Chalmers, Pinkerton,
and others, that it is quite unnecessary to do more
than barely to allude to it. The names of Caledo-
nians and Picts, as well as the appellation of Scots,
by which another portion of the inhabitants of the
north of Scotland came also to be distinguished, were
at all times, as Mr. Grant observes, unknown to the
original inhabitants as national appellations, and
their descendants remain ignorant of them to this
day. He thinks that the term Caledonii — the name
by which the people living northward of the friths of
Clyde and Forth were called by the Romans — was
not invented by Agricola, the first Roman general
who penetrated into North Britain, but was an ap-
pellation taken from the words Na Caoillaoin, signi-
fj ing ' the Men of the Woods,' — a name which he
probably found given by the inhabitants of the
country upon the southern sides of the Glotta and
Bodotria, to the people living beyond these arms of
the sea, on account of the woody nature of the
country which they possessed. [Thoughts on the
Gael, p. 271.] — The Latinized term Caledonii was
first used by Tacitus, and — with the exception of
Herodian, who, in his account of the expedition of
Severus, calls these Caledonii of Tacitus, Britons —
is the appellation by which the inhabitants north-
ward of the friths are distinguished by all the Ro-
man writers down to the orator Eumenius, who, for
the first time, in an oration which he delivered be-
fore the Emperor Constantine, in the year 297, calls
the Caledonians Picti. Eumenius appears, however,
to have used this term in a limited sense, as from
another oration which he delivered in presence of the
same emperor 11 years thereafter, he alludes to the
' Caledones aliique Picti;' but although it is clear
from this expression that the terms Caledonii and
Picti were used to denote the same people, the
cause of this nominal distinction between the extra-
provincial Britons is not so apparent.
The next allusion to the Picts is by Ausonius, a
poet of the fourth century, and preceptor of Gratian:
" Viridem distinguit glarea museum
Tota Caledonns talis pu-tura Britanuis "
Claudian, who lived about the beginning of the
5th century, also mentions the Picts.
"Ferroque notatas,
Perlegin examines Pieto moriente figuras."
And in another place, where he gives an account of
the victories of Theodosius, he sa_t s,
" Ille leves Maurous, nee falso noiume Pictos
Edomuit. "
About the end of the 4th, or beginning of the 5th
century, the Caledonians, or Picts, were divided by
Ammianus Marcellinus, the historian, into the Deu-
caledones, and Vecturiones, a division which seems
to account for the distinction of Eumenius before
observed. The etyma of these two terms has been
attempted by different writers, but without success,
as Mr. Grant thinks. The term Deucaledones he
however thinks, is attended with no difficulty.
" Duchaoilldoin signifies in the Gaelic language,
'the real or genuine inhabitants of the woods.' Du,
pronounced short, signifies ' black ;' but pronounced
long, signifies ' real, genuine,' and in this acceptation
the word is in common use: Du Erinnach, 'a
genuine Irishman;' Du Albinnach, 'a genuine
Scotchman.' The appellation of Deucaledones
served to distinguish the inhabitants of the woody
valleys of Albinn, or Scotland, from those of the
cleared country on the east coast of Albinn, along
its whole extent, to certain distances westward to-
wards the mountains in the interior parts of the
country. These last were denominated, according
to Latin pronunciation, Vecturiones ; but in the
mouths of the Gael, or native inhabitants, the ap-
pellation was pronounced Uachtarich. It may be
observed, that the western division of Albinn, from
the friths northwards along the range of mountains,
which was anciently called Drumalbinn, consists of
deep narrow valleys, which were in former times
completely covered with closely grow ing woods, and
which exhibited a different aspect of country from a
great portion of that which falls from Drumalbinn in
ail directions towards the east coast of the country,
which spreads out in larger tracts of level surface,
and is generally of higher elevation than the bottoms
of the deep valleys w^hich chiefly form what is called
the Highlands of Scotland at this day. The Vec-
turiones appeared to possess the more level surface
of the country, while the Deucaledones inhabited
the narrow deep valleys which were universally
completely covered with thickly growing woods.
That a portion of the country was known in ancient
190
CALEDONIAN CANAL.
times by Unchtar, is evinced by the well known
range of hills called Druim-Uachtar, from which
the country descends in every direction towards the
inhabited regions on all sides of that mountainous
range." [Thoughts on the Origin and Descent of
the Gael, pp. 276, 277.]
CALEDONIAN CANAL, a magnificent line of
inland navigation, 60^ miles in length, running
through the Great Glen of Caledonia, which extends
due south-west and north-east, from the island of
Lismore in Loch Linnhe, in 56° 30' N. lat., and 5°
33' W. long., to the Suters of Cromarty on the Mo-
ray frith, in 57° 40' N. lat., and nearly 4° W. long.
The general history of this canal, with its objects,
difficulties, and defects, are ably stated in Mr. George
May's report, addressed to the secretary of the Canal
commissioners, under date November 1st, 1837, of
which report chiefly the following is an abstract : —
The Caledonian canal was undertaken as one of a
series of improvements which had reference to the
peculiar situation of this country, and the condition
of its inhabitants at the time ; and which were
pressed on the attention of Government by an accu-
mulation of evidence tending to show the necessity
of adopting some means of checking the tide of
emigration which then threatened to depopulate the
Highlands. By the gradual conversion of the whole
country into extensive sheep-walks, a large propor-
tion of the native inhabitants had been deprived of the
means of subsistence; and it became an object of
immediate urgency to afford employment to such of
their number as might at least preserve the rem-
nant of a population, on which, in times of need,
such large and serviceable draughts had so often
been made for the support of our armies and navies.
It could not but happen, moreover, that, by the
adoption of the proposed measures, habits of indus-
try would be introduced among the people, which,
it was expected, would have a permanent effect in
ameliorating the condition of the inhabitants, and
improving the face of the country, to both of which
facility of intercommunication is the first and most es-
sential requisite. And that those measures, as a
whole, have been productive of such results, is now
placed beyond the possibility of reasonable doubt.
Of this it is unnecessary to refer to any other evi-
dence than the rapidly increased value of property
throughout the Highlands generally of late years ;
and although it cannot be said that ill any case
the outlays of Government on the public works
have been, or are likely to be, refunded by the di-
rect revenues arising from themselves, yet there is
still less reason to doubt that a more than adequate
return has in reality accrued from the vastly in-
creased produce and consumption which they have
been the most important instruments of bringing
about. The peculiar formation of the great Cale-
donian valley,. — Jong, deep, and comparatively very
narrow, — and occupied for much the greater portion
of its length by a regular chain of inland lakes and
extensive arms of the sea, — had long suggested the
idea of a canal, which by connecting the whole might
afford the means of a navigable communication be-
tween the opposite sides of the island. Indeed so
marked were its features in this respect, that it must
have been difficult to escape the conclusion that
Nature had irresistibly invited the hand of man to
the completion of such an undertaking. That it
should have been selected, therefore, as the most
prominent of those measures which had for their
leading object the improvement of the Highlands,
and the training of the inhabitants to useful habits
of industry, is by no means surprising; and the only
doubt that appeared to exist was as to the scale
on which the proposed navigation should be con-
structed, so as not merely to answer the immediate
purposes alluded to, but ultimately to afford the
greatest prospect of advantage in a national and
commercial point of view.
In addition to the ordinary class of coasting-ves-
sels, there was every prospect of this canal being
resorted to by many of the Baltic and West Indian
traders, both in their homeward and outward-bound
passages to and from the opposite sides of the king-
dom, and particularly to Ireland at certain seasons
of the year. This consideration, when coupled with
the natural facilities that appeared to present them-
selves in the physical condition of the valley and
its extensive lakes, suggested the probable advan-
tage of constructing it on a larger scale than any
which had previously been attempted in this de-
partment. By adopting the proposed route, it was
calculated that a dangerous and tedious tract of
navigation, extending nearly 300 miles around the
north-western coast and islands of Scotland, would
be saved to all vessels having occasion to trade in
this direction to the opposite sides of the kingdom ;
and it was considered an important addition to the
saving of ordinary sea-risk, that, during a period
of war, vessels might avoid the danger and loss to
which they would otherwise be exposed along a line
of coast peculiarly liable to be infested in the event
of hostilities with America or any of the northern
states of Europe. It was therefore proposed by Mr.
Telford* that the intended canal should be formed of
a size to admit the largest class of Baltic and Ameri-
can traders, or such as to pass on occasions of emer-
gency a 32-gun frigate fully equipped, for which it
was estimated that a uniform depth of 20 feet water
would be necessary, with locks measuring 170 feet
long by 40 feet in width. The original estimate by
Mr. Telford for executing the work on this scale
amounted to no more than ^£350,000 ; and the pe-
riod of its completion was computed at seven years.
There was nothing to prevent the possibility of its
fulfilment within the specified period, provided a
sufficient number of workmen had been employed,
and the necessary funds afforded for overcoming
every natural obstacle that occurred. It was no
doubt partly, however, with a view to the saving of
expense that the works were, in reality, protracted
so much beyond the period calculated upon ; for in
order to have the advantage of canal-conveyance
for the requisite materials, the buildings in the
middle districts were not commenced until the
eastern and western portions of the line had been so
far completed at least as to be conveniently navi-
gable. Besides, during the progress of the late war
the rise which took place in the prices of all descrip-
tions of commodities, as well as of food, and con-
sequently of labour and workmanship, was unprece-
dentedly rapid ; so much so, that from the year 1805,
when the canal works were commenced, to the years
1812 and 1813, the difference in many articles had
increased to 50, 70, and even 100 per cent. Another
source of unlooked-for expenditure is to be attri-
buted to the great extent of dredging, a process hi-
therto untried upon anything like so large a scale.
It was on the Caledonian canal that steam-power
was first applied to this operation ; and although it
was latterly brought to a much more effective degree
of performance, yet it may easily be conceived that
in its earlier stages it was attended with greater dit-
ficulties and consequent expense than the projector
of a work, to which its use and application were en-
tirely subordinate, could reasonably be expected to
* In 1774 the celebrated James Watt surveyed this line, and
gave an exceedingly accurate detail of it. He proposed the
execution of a smaller canal, with locks 25 feet wide, and 10
feet deep.
CALEDONIAN CANAL.
191
have calculated upon. Many unforeseen difficulties
occurred to prevent the canal being opened until sev-
eral years after the period originally contemplated.
Year alter year, during the whole progress of the
work, the inaccuracy of the original estimate be-
coming more evident, a strong feeling was at length
manifested against further advances of public money,
or renewing the annual application to parliament for
further grants : and under these circumstances the
commissioners were led, in the year 1822, to open
the canal when only partially completed. In that
unfinished state, fit only for very limited use, the
canal has ever since continued. This premature
opening of the canal occasioned numerous accidents
to the works, and entire failures of certain portions
of them, the repairing of which has been the source
of continual expense, and has frequently caused the
navigation to be interrupted. The total cost of the
canal up to the period of its being opened, amounted
to the sum of £905,258; and the outlay, to the
latest period to which the accounts have been made
up, is £1,023,628 19s. Od. This sum is composed
or the following items :
Payments for land and damages . . £48,000
Payments for management and la"' . . 43,500
Payments for timber and iron-work . 205,000
Pavments for quarries and masonry . . 200,000
Payments for labour . . . 434,000
Shipping, houses, roads, and incidental expenses,
includiDg interest on money borrowed (about) 3,128
£1,023,628
One of the most difficult operations that occurred
in the formation of the canal was the construction of
the north-east entrance or sea-lock, at Clachnaharry,
on the Beauly frith. Here, on account of the flatness
of the beach, it was necessary to throw out artificial
mounds for about 400 yards into the sea, to attain
the required depth of water; and the bottom was
found to consist of a kind of soft mud or silt, which
was quite unfit to bear the weight of a solid struc-
ture of masonry. The entrance to the sea-lock here,
however, was effectually deepened by a steam dredg-
ing-vessel in the early part of 1838 ; and the whole
masonry, and gates of this lock are at present in good
order. From the Muirtown locks — a series of four,
about a mile distant from the stone bridge of Inver-
ness— the canal extends in a level reach for about 5
miles to the regulating lock at Dochgarroch, at
which there is no rise, its purpose being merely to
avert the winter-floods of Loch Ness, whenever they
should rise above the standard-level of the navi-
gation. The distance from Loch Beauly to the
small loch of Dochfour, at the north-east end of
Loch Ness, is 6 miles 35 chains The navigable
channel through the shallows in Loch Dochfour and
into Loch Ness was dredged to the full depth, but
not sufficiently wide for the commodious passage of
large vessels. Great inconvenience is also felt from
the want of a regular towing-path along the north-
west side of Loch Dochfour; for vessels can only
be tracked along the shore at present when the lake
is in a low state, and much difficulty and delay are
here experienced in warping against contrary winds
in other cases. In proceeding westwards, there is
likewise a considerable current to contend with,
when Loch Ness is much flooded. The length of the
navigable channel through Loch Ness is 23 miles 56
chains. The difficulties encountered in effecting the
requisite entrance from the upper end of Loch Ness,
although of a very different kind, were not less for-
midable than those experienced in connecting the
canal with the tideway at Clachnaharry. With the
intervention of a short space of deep cutting, to form
the entrance channel, there are five united locks at
Fort Augustus. — From Fort Augustus to the north-
east end of Loch Oich is a distance of 5 miles 3a
chains, in which the Kytra and Aberchalder locks
occur. The ordinary summer-level of Loch Oich,
in its natural state, was that calculated on for the
eventual purposes of the canal ; and the Aberchalder
regulating lock was so adapted to it as to afford a
depth of 20 feet over its upper gate-sills. The lake
being in many places quite shallow, it was proposed
to excavate the navigable channel by dredging to a
corresponding depth ; but this proved to be a far more
arduous and expensive operation than was at first
expected. This lake, in very dry weather, occasion-
ally sinks much below the level required for the
purposes of the navigation. It has been seen as low
as 18 feet on the upper Aberchalder lock-gate : thus
reducing the available depth on the shallows of Loch
Oich, in extreme cases, to 12 feet, — which however
only takes place after a long tract of dry weather.
At other times the lake rises considerably above the
present standard-level of the navigation. On the
occasion of the great flood in November 1834, the
water rose to a height of 27 feet 3 inches over the
upper gate-sills of Aberchalder lock. This shows an
extreme variation in the level of Loch Oich of up-
wards of 9 feet, which is far too much for the
commodious working of the navigation, and indeed
is such as to render it utterly impracticable in cases
of very high flood. The chief inconvenience at pre-
sent experienced in Loch Oich, however, is from the
scarcity of water ; for there are few summers in
which it does not fall more or less below the stand-
ard top-level. In extreme cases, recourse has been
had to supplies from Loch Quoich, in Glengarry,
across the outlet of which a sluice-gate was con-
structed for the purpose of retaining the water and
allowing it to fall into Loch Oich; but generally
before it became needful to adopt such means, the
water in Loch Quoich itself was so much reduced
by evaporation, or had otherwise escaped in various
ways, that this source of supply has not proved of
any great importance. Approaching the south-west-
ern end of Loch Oich, the level of which is car-
ried through the deep cutting along the summit-
land at Laggan, there are portions of the navigable
channel which have not been fully deepened, even
to the extent of 15 feet below the present top-level,
and other portions which, having been so deepened,
appear to be in the act of gradually filling up by
a species of soft mud or quicksand. The length
of the navigation through Loch Oich is 3 miles 56
chains At the south-west termination of the sum-
mit-level are situated the two Laggan locks, de-
scending to the level of Loch Lochy ; the first
operating merely as a regulating lock to meet the
occasional flooding of Loch Oich ; and the other
having a fall of 9 feet 6 inches, to suit the differ-
ence of level between the two lakes. The length
of canal-cutting between the south-west end of
Loch Oich and the north-east of Loch Lochy is 1
mile 65 chains. Through the narrows at the north-
eastern end of Loch Lochy, the navigable channel
requires to be deepened for some hundred yards by
dredging. In several places at present it wants at
least 5 feet of the full complement of water ; and
there are portions which are liable to be filled up
by the storms of the lake, as well as by the gradual
accumulations caused by the streams which fall down
the sides of the adjacent mountains. There is
nearly a similar deficiency at the south- western end
of the lake. The surface of Loch Lochy extends
about 1 1 miles in length, and may be reckoned to
have a mile and a half of average width. Its area is
about 6,000 acres. It was part of the original de-
sign that this great sheet of water should be raised
for the purposes of the navigation about 12 feet
192
CALEDONIAN CANAL.
above its natural level; and this was actually ef-
fected by closing up the former egress by the river
Lochy — the site of which is now occupied by the
canal — and forming a new outlet through the lands
of Mucomer at a proportionally higher level ; so that
the waters of the lake are now discharged into the
river Spean, which formerly joined the river Lochy
about half-a-mile below. Across the new outlet a
permanent wear is partly constructed of masonry,
and partly excavated from the solid rock, over which
the water falls into the river Spean. The object of
this wear was of course to preserve and regulate
the requisite level of the lake ; but it would appear
that the portion of the overfall which is cut out of
the rock has been made somewhat too low, for in
periods of extreme drought it is found to allow the
surface of Loch Lochy to fall about a foot below
the line of top-water, or 20 feet, as indicated upon
the upper gates of the Gairlochy regulating lock.
There is also a considerable discrepancy between the
level of the upper gate-sills of Gairlochy lock and
the lower gate-sills of the Laggan lock; and the
discrepancy in question is either aggravated or dimi-
nished according to the state of the winds, which,
when blowing anywise fresh, are found to have a
/ery sensible effect in accumulating the waters of all
the lakes towards the end to which the wind hap-
pens for the time to be directed. When Loch Lochy
is in a state of calm, while there is a depth of 20
feet upon the upper gate-sills of Gairlochy lock,
there is somewhat less than 19 feet upon the lower
gate-sills of Laggan lock. Consequently, when the
surface of the lake falls a foot below top-water at
Gairlochy by reason of the deficient height of the
overfall at Mucomer, there would barely be 18 feet
over the entrance of the lower Laggan lock, which
is at least 2 feet below the minimum level required
for the indispensable purposes of the navigation. A
far more serious evil, however, than the deficiency
of water in Loch Lochy, arises from an opposite
cause, namely, the excessive height to which the lake
in its present state is liable to rise on occasions of
very heavy floods. On the 24-th November, 1834,
the water rose to the height of 29 feet 3 inches,
with reference to the scale which applies to the up-
per lock-gates at Gairlochy. — The canal-reach from
Gairlochy to the head of Bannavie locks extends
about 6 miles in length ; and along this part of the
line the water cannot at present be conveniently or
safely maintained at a greater depth than 15 or 16
feet. At a part of this reach the navigation is like-
wise subject to a very troublesome and injurious ob-
struction, arising from the burn of Mov, which emp-
ties into the canal, and brings down during sudden
floods immense quantities of gravel and rubbish,
which are deposited in it At Bannavie there is a
connected chain of eight locks, which is the greatest
number united together along the line, there being
only five so united at Fort Augustus, and four at
Muirtown. To pass sailing-vessels through the
whole series of these locks generally occupies from
three to four hours, particularly if there is any wind,
and even steam-boats take upwards of two hours
and a half. When several vessels are proceeding in
opposite directions, therefore, it is impossible to pass
more than three or four sets in the course of a long
day ; and it is only on the supposition that all the
vessels are proceeding in the same direction that a
greater number could be accommodated. — The canal
Jeach between Bannavie and Corpach is in a toler-
ably complete state, but the banks have subsided
somewhat below top-level, and would require to be
raised to admit the lull complement of 20 feet water.
The sea-lock at Corpach, although constructed of
rubble work, is a sound, substantial piece of masonry.
The lock-gates consist entirely of oak-framing and
planking, and were the earliest constructed of any
on the line of the canal. Mr. May states, as an ad-
ditional remark which is applicable generally to the
whole line of the canal, that the banks, even although
they had been finished in all places to their proper
height and breadth, are not, according to their pre-
sent construction, at all adapted to the wants of the
navigation in respect to its being now used by
steam-boats. In the event of an increased resort of
steam-boats to any considerable extent, whether for
the purpose of towing or for the conveyance of pas-
sengers and goods, the banks would be found unfit
to withstand the violent action of the water ; and
indeed they have already been a good deal cut up
from this cause, and the materials of the top bank
forced down upon the side-slopes and bottom of the
canal.
One of the most serious accidents to which canals
are liable arises from the very possible circum-
stance of vessels, either by dint of tempestuous
weather or casual mismanagement of the persons in
charge of them, coming into such violent collision
with any of the lock-gates as to carry them away.
This danger is, moreover, enhanced very much in the
case of the Caledonian canal by the peculiar arrange-
ment of the locks, which — instead of being separated
from one another by intermediate basins as in other
navigations — are in several instances clustered toge-
ther in a way which, however well-calculated to
save expense in the original construction of the
canal, is attended with certain disadvantages in its
practical working, of which that under immediate
consideration is none of the slightest. " In order to
illustrate these positions," says Mr. May, " we shall
suppose a particular case, and examine its bearings
upon the present question. At Bannavie, for in-
stance, there are eight united locks, and nine pair of
gates in successive descent, each having, when in a
state of inaction, its regular head of seven or eight
feet of water. Now, let us imagine a heavy vessel
approaching the top of these locks after nightfall,
with a strong breeze of favourable wind, and that,
sufficient attention not being paid to checking its
course in proper time, it comes against the upper
pair of gates with such force as — aided by the pres-
sure of water already upon them — to bear them
down before it. The vessel is, of course, precipi-
tated into the first lock with all the effect due to the
sudden rush of a head of seven or eight feet of water
into it ; and the inevitable consequence is, that it
strikes violently against the second pair of gates,
which having now a head of 15 or 16 feet of water
upon them, are easily broken down. In likemannerthe
vessel is precipitated with accumulated force through
all the successive locks until it falls into the reach
below; thus involving the total destruction of nine
pair of gates, all consequent upon the incidental
failure of the upper pair. Reckoning, then, the ex-
pense of each pair of gates at the moderate com-
putation of £1,000, we have, in the first instance, an
aggregate loss of ^£9,000 as the immediate effect of
a casualty which is liable to occur at any moment ;
and I do not at all exaggerate when I say that some
years would necessarily elapse before the gates could
be reconstructed, and the canal restored to its for-
mer state of operation. But the damage contingent
upon the supposed accident would by no means end
here. The instant effect of the destruction of the
Bannavie lock-gates would be to empty the whole
reach between that place and Gairlochy lock, the
gates of which being then deprived of their present
counteracting support would almost to an absolute
certainty yield to the pressure of the water above ;
and if we supposed Loch Lochy to be in a flooded
CALEDONIAN CANAL.
193
state at the time, the whole waters of that lake, to
tlie depth oi' from 20 to 30 feet, would be suddenly
discharged into the valley below, involving not mere-
ly the utter annihilation of the canal-works, but the
most extensive ravages of life and property through-
out the whole district between Loch Lochy and the
sea. It will no doubt appear somewhat strange to
you, but it is assuredly the fact that all these ap-
palling consequences would almost inevitably ensue
iroin the incidental failure of a single pair of gates,
either at the Bannavie or Gairlochy locks. It is al-
most needless for me to say that effects of a pre-
cisely similar kind, though proportionally of less
extent, would follow from any accident to the lock-
gates at Fort-Augustus, where there are five united
locks and six successive pair of gates ; or at Muir-
town, where there are four united locks and tive
pair of gates ; and indeed there is not a situation on
the line where such an occurrence could take place
without necessarily involving the total interruption
of the navigation from sea to sea for greater or less
periods, and expenses to a very serious amount, set-
ting aside entirely the contingent damages to which
it might in all probability lead."
The rate hitherto charged has been an uniform
one for all classes of vessels that use the navigation
of the Caledonian canal, and is charged upon the
registered tonnage of the vessel according to the
distance passed, without reference to the cargoes
carried or to goods loaded or shipped at any part of
the line. This was the mode of charging dues ori-
ginally fixed on by the commissioners, and the pre-
sent rate is one farthing per ton per mile, according
to the registered tonnage of the vessel; but the
Canal acts authorize a charge of 2d. per ton per
mile, without specifying whether it should be cal-
culated on the registered tonnage, the actual tonnage
carried, or at various rates according to the descrip-
tion of goods. The following is a statement of the
number of vessels passing through the canal, from
1828 to 1839:—
F<ir the year ending 1st May. 1828
Do. 18.-9
Do. law
Do. 1S3I
Do. 1832
Do. 1833
Do. 1834
Do. J8J5
Do. 1836
Do. 1S37
Do. 1838
Do. ISJJ
From From
Well lit East lo
Host sea. West sea.
no J3i>
150 166
163 202
152 171
143 182
155 179
lil 197
128 160
189 238
21 fi 249
176 2-15
226 328
It has to be observed that interruptions, occasioned
by the repairs of the works and otherwise, occurred
during some of the above years, which, of course,
lessened the number of vessels that would have
passed during those years; but none of these inter-
ruptions were nearly of such duration as that during
the winter of 1837-38, when the navigation was
rendered impracticable for about a month by a failure
in the works at Fort Augustus, and two months
more by the unprecedented frost that soon after set
in. The following table shows the number of ves-
sels which have navigated the Caledonian canal in
each year since it was opened to the public in Oc-
tober 1822:—
From Oct., 1822; to 1st May, 1823
In iiie year ending 1st May, 1S24
Do. lS2o
Do. 1826
Do. 1827
Do. 1S28
Do. 1SJ9
I.
Passages
Passages
Passages
from
. ^
Sea lo
parts of
Sea.
canal.
boats.
37
278
566
131
476
517
149
33S
488
118
281
419
66
210
483
159
316
463
154
Do.
1R30
365
416
221
Do.
18.it
323
531
207
Do.
1832
325
778
141
Do.
18o3
334
586
162
Do.
1S34
S2S
486
186
Do.
1835
238
494
248
Do.
]Sj6
427
5(12
235
Do.
18.'i7
465
578
199
Do.
ISIS
421
576
159
Do.
1839
554
526
175
One of the temptations to make a canal at all,
and particularly of this great size, from Loch Eil to
the Beauly frith, was the apparent facility afforded
by the three lakes which lie in almost a continuous
line, and are for the most part of ample width and
depth: viz. Loch Lochy, 10 miles; Loch Oich, 4
miles; and Loch Ness, 23^ miles; together 37^
miles; thus leaving of the whole length of 60^ miles,
only 23 miles of canal to make. That the cost of
making the canal has been much reduced, probably
more than half, by the lakes, cannot be doubted ;
but it is equally apparent, Mr. Walker states, that
they are now great hinderances to the passage of
vessels. From lying in the trough or hollow be-
tween two ranges of mountains, the wind blows
always parallel to the line of the canal, so as neces-
sarily to be a foul wind in one direction. From the
rocky nature of the banks, and their crooked irregu-
lar shape, tracking through the lakes is impossible.
The width of Loch Lochy and Loch Ness is suffi-
cient for vessels of about 100 tons to work when
once fairly in the lakes; but there is a great diffi-
culty in warping against a strong head-wind to reach
this, and great danger also from the rocky shores in
case of a vessel missing stays. Therefore, working
or tacking through the lakes is seldom attempted;
and the consequence is, that the passage of 60 miles,
which, were tracking practicable lor the u hole
length, might be accomplished generally in three to
four da_\s, often takes as many weeks, even a mouth
is not unusual, and cases of five weeks have been
known. The evil is increased by the westerly
winds which prevail tor eight or nine months of the
year, and are opposed to the passage of" vessels pro-
ceeding from the east to the west end, which is the
direction of what ought to be the greatest trade on
the canal. To prevent the delay — sometimes three
or four months — of going through the Peittland frith
and round Cape Wrath during westerly winds, was
one of the principal objects of the canal, which is
thus in a great measure defeated. A very few hours
of a steam-tug would have set the w hole at liberty.
The approaches to the cuual from the estuaries at
each end are subject to the same inconvenience.
The want of depth in the canal and portions of the
locks is another great drawback upon the use of the
canal. This arises partly from the excavation of
the canal never having been completed, partly from
the wears at the ends of the locks not being suffi-
cient to support the depth of water, and partly from
the great leakage in parts of the canal. The aver-
age of tonnage passing through the canal, exclusive
of steam-boats and local traffic, has been ubout
25,000 tons per annum, without much increase or
diminution, during the last ten years. It would
appear that the present traffic on the canal is not
probably 2£ per cent, of the whole trade going
through the Pentland frith ; and, irom what ha
been seen, the canal is not capable, in its presen*
state, of receiving vessels of any considerable ton-
nage, which, indeed, never attempt it. During the
last seven years, onlv one vessel of 240 tons has
made the passage. The gross receipts of the canal
have not exceeded ,£2,500 since the rates were re-
duced from a halfpenny to a farthing per ton per
mile; the expense of repairs, working and superin-
tendence, have exceeded A'3,000,— an amount which
N
CAL
194
CAL
is considerable for the trade done ; but it is to be
observed, that the expense is increased by the bad
repair and unfinished state of the works, that the
canal works are made for a trade of much larger ves-
sels, and that the expense of them is almost the
same as if such vessels, to ten times the present
number, were to pass. If the works were finished
and put into good repair, the expense would un-
doubtedly be lessened. The expense of the repairs
and finishing necessary, Mr. Walker estimates at
£129,317. But to complete the establishment, Mr.
Walker thinks three steam-vessels should be calcu-
lated on for the canal: viz., one for Loch Lochy
of 40 horses power, one for Loch Oicb of 40 horses
po.\er, and one for Loch Ness of 50 horses power.
To do full justice to the navigation, and add to the
certainty of despatch, there ought also to be a
steamer in the Murray frith, to bring vessels from
Fort George to the eastern entrance, and from Cor-
ran ferry, or even the soimd of Mull, to the western
entrance. This would require an additional capital
of .£6,000, and incur an addition of £2,000 to the
annual outlay ; but the accommodation would be
most complete. The amount for steam tug-boats,
with 10 per cent, for contingencies, added to the
repairs and improvements before stated, make a gross
amount of £143,837, or, in round numbers, £150,000
for putting the canal in complete repair, making it
proper for all vessels of 38 feet beam, and 17 feet
draught. With these improvements and additions,
the passage from Fort George to the sound of Mull
might generally be depended on to be made within
lour days, and certainly, even in foul weather,
within a week.
The accuiacy of Sir. Walker's estimate has
been concurred in by parties of skill and respecta-
bility ; and the commissioners to whom the matter
was referred by parliament, after the most anxious
investigation, recommended that an advance of
£2U0,U00 should be made to put the canal into re-
pair and effective operation. But a proposal has
been made to relieve Government of the whole un-
dertaking. All our grandest works have been the
result of individual enterprise and private adventure;
and there is the strongest probability that this mag-
nificent canal, when effectively repaired, and aided
by steam-power, will confer the most important ad-
vantages on the commercial and maritime interests
of the kingdom, and prove not only a work of great
usefulness, but also a source of large revenue. A
parliamentary committee having had before them the
report of the select committee appointed during the
last session to inquire into the state of the Caledo-
nian canal, and the proposals made to Government to
carry into effect, by private enterprise, the resolu-
tions of that select committee, by which means the
necessity of application to parliament for the funds
requisite to complete the canal would be obviated,
and this great national work rendered more avail-
able to the interests of the country, without any
further expenditure of public money, have reported,
[June, 1S40,] that it is the opinion of this commit-
tee that such an arrangement is desirable, and would
be advantageous, under the following conditions: —
1st, That the Lord3 of the Treasury be empowered to grant
or lease tile Caledonian canal and ils appurtenances lora period
not exceeding 00 years, without any annual return or rent
thcretore.
'id, That before the execution of such lease, and before appli-
cation shall be made to parliament for a bill to incorporate any
company to whom the canal may be so leased, such company
shall pay to the Lord* of the Treasury the sum ot £45,001), to
be applied in discharging the several debts now owiug ou ac-
count ot the said eaoal.
3d, Tout the works specified in the report of Mr. Walker
shall be executed to the Batisf.u'tion of any engineer appuinled
by the said Lords of the Treasury ; and the compauy shall be
bound to maintain and repair the same.
4th, That in case of failure on the part of the company to
complete the canal and works within the period of three years
after the passing of the act, or adequately to maintain and re-
pair the canal and other works, all the compulsory powers and
remedies for the recovery of subscriptions, and also for the re-
covery of rales and duties payable on the canal and other works
shall be available to the Lords of the Treasury.
5th, That such company shall not be entitled to declare or to
pay aoy dividend to the shareholders exceeding JO per cent, in
any year upon the share or interest of such shareholder in the
canal, until a reserve-fund of £50,000 shall have been accumu-
lated and set aside; nor to declare or pay any dividend exceed-
ing 15 per cent, in anyone year until a reserve-lund of £100.000
shall have been accumulated and set aside ; which reserve. iund
shall be applicable to defray theexpeuse of the completing and
maintaining the said canal and other works, or of any casualty
or any extraordinary expense.
6th, That the rates to be taken upon sailing of steam-vessels
shall not exceed the present rates of 2d. per registered ton per
mile, unless such vessels shall use the steam. tugs belonging to
the said company, in which ea«e they shall pav an additional
rate not exceeding the sum of id. per ton per mile.
7th, That all ships of war and other ships of her Majesty
shall be exempt from all rates and duties upon the canal, unless
such vessels shall use the steam-tu^s belonging to the company,
in which case they shall be liable to pay at the usual rate levied
per ton per mile.
8lh, That the company shall relieve the Lords of the Trea-
sury, and commissioners of the canal, of all responsibility for
accidents or damage to the canal and other works.
Oth. That the canal and other works shall be left at the ter-
mination of the lease in a state of good and sufficient repair.
CALFA, a small island of the Hebrides, near
Tiree.
CALLADER (Loch), a small lake, 2 or 3 miles
in circumference, in the district of Crathy, Aber-
deenshire. It abounds with trout, and contains a
few salmon and eel. It discharges its waters liv a
small burn, into the Clunie, a tributary of the Dee.
CALLANDER, a palish in the district of Men-
teith, Perthshire ; bounded by Balquhidder and
Comrie on the north; Kilmadock on the east; by
Port-Menteith and Aberfoyle on the south ; and by
Buchanan on the west. From the banks of the
Teith, the parish extends, amongst the Grampian
hills, about 18 miles in length; its greatest breadth
is about 6. The appearance of the country towards
the west and north is mountainous, and gloomy from
the extent of black heath. The higher grounds are
here and there clad with oak-woods, and thriving
plantations of various kinds of trees ; and a hold
stupendous rock called the Crags of Callander diver-
sifies the scene, and forms a striking contrast to the
valley and the meanderings of the rivulets below.
That branch of the Teith which issues from Loch
Lubnaig, unites a few hundred yards above the vil-
lage with the branch issuing from Loch Vennachar;
and forms a fine peninsula. The soil is a rich loam,
in some places capable of high cultivation ; but in
general it is a light gravel. The arable land is mostly
enclosed either with stone-dikes or hedge-rows.
Callander is remarkable for the wild and romantic
scenery of its prospects. Above the Trosachs,
Benledi, Benvenue, and other lofty mountains, raise
their rocky heads; while the valleys everywhere ex-
hibit beautiful expanses of water formed by the
Teith, which is immediately after poured over per-
pendicular precipices. Near Loch Lubnaig — of
which one-halt lies in this parish — the scenery is
very grand, and finely ornamented by the woods and
pleasure-grounds of Kinnaird, once the seat of Bruce,
the Abyssinian traveller. There is a tine quarry of
limestone, or rather marble, on the estate of Leny,
the ground of which is a deep blue, with slender
variegated streaks of a pure white. Slate ot the
finest azure blue and purple is wrought in many
places. A remarkable vein, or rather ridge of rocks,
composed entirely of a coarse pudding-stone, runs all
the way from Callander to Crieff: pebbles and agates
are enclosed in the cementing matter, which is uni-
formly of a dark brown colour. In Benledi, a vein
of lead ore was discovered, and wrought; hut the
expense was found to be greater than the produce*
CAL
195
CAM
and it was given up. There are several remains of
extensive fortifications on many of the hills; and
near the minister's house is the foundation of an old
square castle, built or repaired in 1596, by Living-
stone, Earl of Linlithgow, but mostly taken down in
1737. Population of the parish and villages in 1S01,
2,282; in 1S31, 1,909. Houses in 183L316. As-
sessed property in 1815, £7,208 The parish of
Callander, formerly a cbapelry dependent on Inch-
mahome. is in the presbytery of Dunblane and synod
of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Crown. Stipend
£197 14s. lid., with a glebe of the value of £20.
Church built til 1773 ; sittings 638 There is an In-
dependent, chapel; sittings 140; but without regu-
lar service — Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4Jd.,
with about £40 fees. There are two schools, not
parochial, supported by the society for propagating
Christian knowledge. — The village of Callander,
5\h miles west-north-west of Edinburgh, 1G.V north-
west of Stirling, and 14 south of Loeheartihead, is
beautifully situated on both sides of the Teith,
over which there is here a bridge of three arches,
which connects the oltl and new part of the village.
It is built on a regular plan, and the houses are
good, and covered with slate. The surrounding
scenery is remarkably beautiful. A settlement for
the soldiers discharged alter the German war was
established here by Government in 1763; since
which time Callander has been gradually increasing.
It was much extended by the introduction of the
cotton-manufacture. In the weaving of muslin about
100 looms are employed in Callander and the adjoin-
ing village of Rilmahog. It has a large and excel-
lent inn, where every accommodation can be pro-
cured. The church stands on one side of a sort of
square, in the middle of the village : it has a pavilion-
roof, with a spire over the pediment. The village
contained, in 1836, 1,100 inhabitants. Thursday is
market-dav. It has 5 annual fairs : viz. 10th March
O. S. ; or 21st N. S. for black cattle; 1st Thursday
in May O. S. ; and loth N. S. ; 1st Thursday in
August O. S. ; and 9th October Two miles west
of the village is the celebrated Pass of Lkny: which
see. The bridge and falls of Bracklin, in the im-
mediate neighbourhood, also deserve to be visited by
the tourist: see article Bracklin. The distance
from Callander to the first opening of the Tiosaehs
is about 10 miles : see article The Trosachs.
CALLENDAR, an estate and seat in the shire of
Stirling and parish of Falkirk. The house is i mile
south-east of Falkirk. The estate of Callendar hav-
ing been confiscated immediately after the rebellion
in 1715, was sold about the year 1720 ; and such
tithes as were not conveyed with the estate, wete
disposed of by the commissioners and trustees of
the forfeited estates in Scotland, to Hamilton of
Dichmond, under the express stipulation that they
should be subject to the stipend of a minister for
the new parish of Polniont, which was to be erected
out of the parish of Falkirk. The numerous fine
trees in Callendar park, together with the adjacent
woods, add much to the pleasantness of the neigh-
bourhood. Callendar formerly gave the title of Earl
to the family of Livingstone, attainted in 1715. On
the forfeiture of the estates of the family of Lin-
lithgow and Callendar, they were purchased by the
York Buildings company. The affairs of that com-
pany having gone into disorder, their estates were
Bold for the benefit of their creditors ; and those of
Callendar and Almond were bought by William
Forbes, Esq., the ancestor of the present proprietor.
During the time that Lord Errol held the lease
of Callendar estate, nearly 500 acres were totally
covered with furze and broom. His Lordship ot-
tered a long lease of this laud to a smith in Fal-
, . , *i J ud nob she ,. . ,, . .
kirk at 2s. 6d. per acre, on condition that ire would
clear it from all encumbrance, and render it arable ;
but the offer was rejected from a conviction that
it would be a losing concern ! The land no\y lets at
from £3 to £0 per acre. AVbat will equally astonish
is, that about fifty years ago, Lord Errol paid only
a rent of about £780 for the whole estate of Cal-
lendar, with power to cut down and sell as much
timber as he pleased ; and at the present day, this
estate draws at least £20,000 yearly. Callendar house
has been the scene of important events ; it was
stormed and taken by Cromwell, on his march to the
Torr-wood to give battle to Charles II. Nearly op-
posite to the house an earthen wall of considerable
height and thickness branches off from Graham's
dike, towards the old castle of Almond. From
thence towards the east, there are few or no cer-
tain traces of it to be seen ; but it may be pre-
sumed that it once ended at Linlithgow, where
there was a Roman camp, on the place where the
palace was afterwards built. Tn's vva" nas n°
fosse ; and being broad at the top, was probably in-
tended to be a road, as well as a line of defence.
C ALL1GR AY, or Killicray, one of the western
isles, in the district of Harris. It is situated about
H league east of Bernera, and is ahout 2 miles long,
and 1 broad. The south end of the island is a deep
moss, almost entirely uncultivated. The north end
is an earlv soil, which is cultivated with care. Here,
as well as in the other islands of the district, the in-
habitants live by fishing, and the manufacture of
kelp. In the north end of the island are the faint
traces of a very ancient building, called Teampnll
na /1' Annait, * the Temple of Annat,' — a goddess
of the Saxon mythology who presided over young
maidens. There is also a well called Tobar na h'
Annait, where the maidens are supposed to have pu-
rified themselves.
CALTON, a suburb of Glasgow. See Glasgow.
CALTON, a suburb of Edinburgh. See Edin-
burgh.
CALTON-HILL, a rounded eminence in Edin-
burgh, rising abruptly from the southern termina-
tion of the ridge on which Prince's street is built,
and forming, on the south-western side, the continua-
tion of the northern side of the valley by which the
ridge of the High street is separated from that of
the New town. Between it and the Prince's
street ridge, a deep and narrow hollow is formed,
which winds round the base of the hill eastward,
and is soon lost in the plain that extends to Leith.
From the summit, it slopes gently toward the south-
east, becoming broader, and in this direction passes
gradually into the plain which extends to Leith and
Portobeiio. It thus exhibits an abrupt and rounded
face to the north-west, in the same manner as the
Castle rock. Its elevation above sea-level at Leith
is 344 feet. Its great mass is composed of clay-
stone-porphyry and trap-tula. Both these rocks
exhibit a great variety of appearances. With its
fissured, cracked, and crumbled appearance, the
Calton hill would present an emblem of instability
and desolation, were it not partly covered with
buildings, and placed in the midst of a city un-
rivalled for its beauty. Beyond the summit, how-
ever, in the direction of its long slope, nothing
meets the eye but verdure, indicating that the rock
has changed" its character and disposition.
CAMBRAY. See Cumeray.
CAMBUS, a small village in the parish of Alloa,
Clackmannan ; 2 miles west of Alloa, and 1 south
of Tullibody ; at the confluence of the Devon with
the Forth. There is here an extensive distillery.
CAMBUS-BARRON, a village in Stirlingshire,
2 miles west of St. Ninian's.
CAM
196
CAM
CAMBUSKENNETH, an abbey founded by
David I., in 1147, on a sort of peninsula formed by
the Forth, about a mile to the north-east of Stir-
ling-. The adjacent fields are supposed to have been
the scene of some transaction in which one of those
Scottish monarch's who bore the name of Kenneth
was concerned ; and hence the place received the
name of Camus-kenneth, which siprniiics ' the Field
or Creek of Kenneth.' The situation was both
pleasant and convenient, in the midst of a fertile
country, where the community could be supplied
with all sorts of provisions, and plenty of fish from
the neighbouring river. As soon as the house was
tit to receive inhabitants, it was planted with a com-
pany of monks of St. Augustine, or Canons-regular,
who were translated from Aroise, near Arras, in the
province of Artois in France : an order afterwards so
numerous in Scotland as to possess no less than
twenty-eight monasteries in the kingdom. Th's
abbey was sometimes called the Monastery of Stir-
ling, from its vicinity to that town ; and the abbots
are often designed, in the subscriptions of old char-
ters, " ahbates de Striveling." The church which
belonged to it was dedicated to St. Mary. Hence a
lane leading from the High street in Stirling to the
monastery still goes by the name of St. Mary's wynd.
The first abbot of Cambuskenneth was called Al-
fiidus ; but of him and his successors, for 3 centuries,
we have nothing memorable on record. In 1326,
the clergy, earls, and barons, with a great, number of
an inferior rank, having convened in this abhev,
swore fealty to David Bruce, as heir apparent to the
crown, in presence of Robert his father; as also to
Robert Stewart, grandson of the king, as the next
heir, in the event of David's death without issue.
A marriage was, at the same time, solemnized be-
tween Andrew Murray of Bothwell, and Christian
Bruce, sister of King Robert. During the wars
with England, in the reign of David Bruce, the
monastery was pillaged of all its most valuable fur-
niture. The hooks, vestments, cups, and ornaments
of the altar, were carried off. In order to the re-
paration of this loss, William Delanriel, bishop of
St. Andrews, made a grant to the community of the
vicarage of Clackmannan. From the beginning
of the 15th century, we find the abbots of this
place frequently employed in important national
transactions, or advanced to the highest civil of-
fices. Henry, abbot of Cambuskenneth, after hav-
ing given proofs of his political abilities in an em-
bassy to England, was, in 1493, raised to the office
of high-treasurer of Scotland, whicli he held only a
short time. He died in 1502, having held the abbot-
ship above thirty years. He was succeeded by
David Arnot, formerly archdeacon ot Lothian ; who,
after having been six years at the head of this abbey,
was, in 1509, preferred to the bishopric of Galloway,
to which the deanery of the chapel-royal of Stirling
was annexed. The next abbot was Patrick Panther
or Panter, who was reckoned one of the most ac-
complished scholars of that age, as well as an able
statesman. He was secretary to James IV., who
also raised him to the dignity of a piivv-councillor.
To his pen, the Latin epistles of that monarch
were indebted for that purity and elegance of style
which distinguished them from the barbarous com-
positions of the foreign princes with whom he cor-
responded. He was also appointed preceptor to the
King's natural son, Alexander Stewart, afterwards
archbishop of St. Andrew's, whose uncommon pro-
gress in literature is so much celebrated by Erasmus,
under whose tuition he sometime was. David
Panther — said to have been a nephew or some other
near relation of the above Patrick — was commendator
of this abbey in the latter end of the reign of James
V. and the minority of Queen Mary. His first office
in the church was that of vicar of Carstairs, near
Lanark; he was afterwards prior of St. Mary's isle
in Galloway; next, commendator of Cambusken-
neth ; and, last of all, he was raised to the see of
Ross in 1552. He was an accomplished scholar, and
admirably skilled in the Latin language In 1559,
the monastery was spoiled, and a great part of it cast
down by the reformers, who, however laudable their
intentions were, proceeded, in some instances, to
the execution of them in a tumultuary manner.
Several of the monks embraced the Reformation ;
and, on that account, had their portions withdrawn
by the Queen -regent. David Panther wls the last
ecclesiastic who possessed the lucrative abbotship
of Cambuskenneth. John Earl of Marr, afterwards
Regent, had the disposal of the revenues of Cambus-
kenneth. He bad, during the reign of James V.
been appointed commendator of Inchmabome. After
the Reformation had taken place, one of his nepbewrs,
Adam Erskine, was commendator of Cambusken-
neth. In 1562, by virtue of an order from Quee:
Mary, and the privy-council, ati account was taken
of all the revenues belonging to cathedrals, abbeys,
priories, and other religious houses, that stipends
might be modified to the reformed clergy, who were
to have a third of the benefices. According to that
account, the revenues of Cambuskenneth were :
£930 13s. 4id. Scots money; 11 chalders, 11 bolls,
2 firlots of wheat; 2S chalders, 12 bolls, 3 firlots, 3
pecks, 2 lippies of bear ; 31 chalders, 6 bolls, 3 fir-
lots, 3 pecks, 2 lippies of meal; 19 chalders, 15
bolls, 3 firlots, 3 pecks, 2 lippies of oats. In whole,
91 chalders, 15 bolls, 1 firlot, 2 pecks, 2 lippies.
The barony of Cambuskenneth, in which the mon-
astery stood, was settled by the Earl of Marr upon
Alexander Erskine of Alva, whose posterity con-
tinued in possession of it till the year 1709, when it
was purchased by the town-council of Stirling for
the benefit of Cowan's hospital, to which it still be-
longs. The fabric of the abbey was once large and
extensive ; but nothing of it now exists, except a
few broken walls, and a tower which was the belfry.
Some remains of the garden are to be seen ; and the
burial-place, where James III. and his Queen are
interred. There is no vestige of the church. Tra-
dition reports that one of the bells was for some time
in the town of Stirling, but that the finest was lost
in its passage across the river.
CAMBUSLANG, a parish in Lanarkshire, on the
south bank of the Clyde; and bounded by Old
Monkland parish on the north; Blantyre on the
east; by Kilbride on the south; and by Rutherglen
on the west. The surface is beautifully diversified
with hill and dale. A ridge of about half-a-milvj
broad is formed by the Dichmount and Turnlea
hills, extending nearly 2 miles from east to west.
From this central ridge the ground declines in a
gradual manner to the Clyde on the north, and to
the water of Calder on the south. The Clyde is
from 200 to 250 feet broad at this place, and gener-
ally overflows part of the low grounds three or lour
times a-year. It has been known to rise here 20
feet above its mean level. The Kirk burn and
Newton burn are small tributaries of the Clyde,
in this parish. Coal abounds in the district, where
it has been wrought for upwards of 300 years.
The present output is about 30,000 tons per annum.
In 1750, a cart of coals of 9 cut. cost 9d. ; on the
coalhill in this parish the same quantity at present
costs 2s. lid. Vast beds of excellent freestone
are also found in every part of the parish, the strata
of which, as well as of the coal, dip towards the
river; it is singular that, on the north side of the
Cl^de, the dip is also towards the river. A stra-
CAMBUSLANG.
107
turn of limestone, usually called Cambuslang marble,
is found in some of the coal-pits at the depth of
200 feet; it is of a beautiful dark grev or dark
brown colour, with whitish streaks and spots, and
receives a very high polish — Dechmont-hill seems
to have been anciently a place of strength, and
must have been well-adapted for a watch-tower.
Rising from a comparatively level country, to an
altitude of 600 feet, it commands an extensive and
varied prospect — the beauties of which have been
recently celebrated in a descriptive poem, entitled
' Dycbmont,' by John Struthers, the author of ' The
Poor Man's Sabbath,' and other pieces of much
poetical merit. Upon the summit of Deehmont are
some traces of ancient buildings. — About a mile east
of the church is the castle of Drumsargard, to which an
extensive barony was at onetime annexed. This was
the property successively of several families of great
name, the Oliphants. the Murrays, the Douglases, and
the Hamiltons; and it at present makes a part of the
entailed estate of Hamilton. — On the south side of
Deehmont, stands Latrick, which, about the be-
ginning of the 17th century, was the seat of a Sir
John Hamilton, whose family is extinct. On the
north side of the same hill, stands the turreted
house of Gilbertfield. long the residence of a family
of the name of Cunningham : about the beginning
of the 18th century, this estate was purchased bv
the laird of West-Burn. Lieutenant William Ha-
milton, the friend and poetical correspondent of
Allan Ramsay, lived many years, first at Gilbert-
field, and then at Latrick. where he died on the
24th of May, 1751, at an advanced age — Upon the
hanks of the Kirk burn, about a quarter of a mile
below the church, there was a chapel, founded in
1379, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, to which
belonged 4 acres of land "which still retain the
name of Chapel-land : there was also an hospital
2 miles east from the church, to which about 130
acres, called Spital and Spital hill, seem to have
been annexed : but the persons by whom, and the
time when, these religious houses were founded,
are equally unknown. — Population, in 1S01, 1,558;
in 1831, 2.697. Of this population about 500 rind
employment in weaving. Assessed property in 1S15,
£8,578. Land rental about £6.000. Houses 369.
The village of Cambuslang is about 5 miles from
Glasgow This parish is in the presbytery of
Hamilton, and synod of Glasgow and Avr. Patron,
the Duke of Hamilton. Stipend £281 lis. Ild.;
with a glebe of the value of £10. Unappropriated
teinds £469 19s. 5d. Church built in 1743; sittings
500. An Independent chapel was built at Cambus-
lang in 1801 ; sittings 200. — The parochial school-
master has a salary of £34 4s. 44d., with about
£40 fees. Pupils 100. There are four private
schools within the parish.
Cambuslang possesses a peculiar interest in the
eyes of the religious public, as having been the scene
of a very remarkable revival in 1742. The following
sketch of these transactions is given in the ' New
Statistical Account :' — " The religious phenomena,
commonly called ' the Cambuslang work,' seems to
have originated in circumstances apparently acciden-
tal. The kirk of Cambuslang being too small and
out of repair — as is too often the case in the present
day — the minister in favourable weather frequently
conducted the puhlic devotional services of the par-
ish in the open fields. The place chosen was pecu-
liarly well adapted for the purpose. It is a green
brae on the east side of a deep ravine near the
church, scooped out by nature in the form of an am-
phitheatre. At present it is sprinkled over with
broom, furze, and sloe-bushes, and two aged thorns
in twin embrace are seen growing side by side near
the borders of the meandering rivulet which mur-
murs below. In this retired and romantic spot Mr.
M'Culloch, for about a year before the * work' be-
gan, preached to crowded congregations, and on the
Sabbath evenings after sermon, detailed to the lis-
tening multitudes, the astonishing effects produce/I
by the ministrations of Mr. Whitefield in England
and America, and urged with great energy the doc-
trines of regeneration and newness of life. The
effects of his zeal soon began to evidence themselves
in a striking manner among the multitudes who
waited on bis ministry. Towards the end of January,
1742, two persons, Ingram Move, a shoemaker, and
Robert Bowman, a weaver, went through the parish,
and got about ninety heads of families to subscribe
a petition, which was presented to the minister,
desiring that he would give them a weekly lecture.
This request was immediately complied with, and
Thursday was fixed upon as the most convenient
day of the week for that purpose. These meetings
were crowded with multitudes of bearers, and at
length from weekly were extended to daily ex-
hortations, which were carried on without interrup-
tion for seven or eight months. Many people came
to the minister's house under strong convictions
of sin, calling themselves * enemies to God, despisers
of precious Christ,' and saying ' what shall we do to
be saved ?' The first prominent symptoms of the
extraordinary effects produced by these multiplied
services were on the 8th February. Soon after, the
sacrament was given twice in the space of five
weeks; on 11th July and on 15th August. Mr.
Whitefield had arrived from England in June, and
many of the most popular preachers of the day has-
tened to join him at Cambuslang, such as Messrs.
Willison of Dundee, Webster of Edinburgh,
M'Knight of Irvine, M'Laurin of Glasgow, Currie
of Kinglassie, Bonner of Torphiehen, Robe of Kil-
syth, &c. The sacrament on the 15th August was
very numerously attended. One tent was placed at
the lower extremity of the amphitheatre ahove al-
luded to, near the joining of the two rivulets ; and
here the sacrament was administered. A second tent
was erected in the churchyard, and a third in a green
field a little to the west of the first tent. Each of
these was attended with great congregations, and it
has been estimated that not less than 30,000 people
attended on that occasion. Four ministers preached
on the fast day, 4 on Saturday, 14 or 15 on Sunday,
and 5 on Monday. There were 25 tables, about 120
at each, in all 3,000 communicants. Many of these
came from Glasgow, about 200 from Edinburgh, as
many from Kilmarnock, and from Irvine and
Stewarton, and also some from England and Ireland.
The Cambuslang work continued for six months,
from 8th February to 15th August, 1742. The num-
ber of persons converted at this period cannot be
ascertained. Mr. M'Culloch, in a letter to Mr.
Robe, dated 30th April 1751, rates them at 400, of
which number 70 were inhabitants of Cambuslang.
The ISth of February, the day on which this extra-
ordinary work began, was, long after, observed in
the parish partly as a day of humiliation and fasting
for misimprovement of mercies, ami partly as a day
of thanksgiving for the season of grace to many in
the British colonies, and particularly in this small
corner in 1741 and 1742." The judicious writer of
these remarks adds, " When the present venerable
and learned incumbent of Cambuslang entered on
the charge of the parish, a number of the converts
of 1742 still lived, and gave evidence, by the piety
and consistency of their conduct, of the reality of
the saving change that had been wrought on their
hearts. So late as July, 1818, the writer of this note
heard an aged clergyman of a neighbouring parish
CAM
198
CAM
illude in the church of Cambuslnng, on a Monday
after a communion, to the revival in the following
terms : He had been speaking of the time and place
in which God had been pleased to afford extraordi-
nary manifestations of his power and grace in the
conversion of sinners, and in comforting and strength-
ening his people, and he added, ' Such was Bethel
to the Patriarch Jacob, Tabor to the three disciples,
and such was this place about seventy-six years ago,
of whom I am told some witnesses remain to this
present hour, but the greater part are fallen asleep.'
If any one is still so bold as to allege that the work
at Cambuslang was 'a work of the devil,' he will
find no countenance from the serious part of the in-
habitants of the district in which it took place. No
one ever attempted to justify every thing that was
said or done at that memorable period ; but, on the
other hand, it is hoped that the warmth of party
spirit will no longer prevent good men from admit-
ting what even the correspondent of Mr. Wishart of
Edinburgh was constrained to acknowledge in re-
gard to the revival in New England at that time,
'that an appearance so much out of the ordinary
wav, and so unaccountable to persons not acquainted
with the history of the world, was the means of
awakening the attention of many, and that a good
number settled into a truly Christian temper.'"
CAMBUSMICHAEL. See St. M.vrtins.
CAMBUSNETHAN, a parish in the middle ward
of Lanarkshire; hounded on the north by Shotts
parish; on the east by Whitburn anil West Calder
in Linlithgowshire ; on the south by Carnwath, Car-
stairs, Carluke, and Dalserf parishes ; and on the
west by Dalserf, Hamilton, and Dalziel. It extends
in a north-east direction from the Clyde on the west,
nearly 12 miles in length ; and is on an average
about 3 miles in breadth. Its superficies is about
26.000 acres, of which nearly one-third is cultivated;
and about 160 acres are laid out as orchard-grounds.
The baughs on the Clyde are extensive and beauti-
ful. On the bank, which rises above the haugh-
grounds, the soil is clay, covered with extensive
orchards, which are well-sheltered from the north
and east winds by coppice- woods, and regular planta-
tions. Farther up the soil becomes mossy, or mixed
with a black sand peculiarly unfavourable for vege-
tation. The highest grounds are on the eastern side
of the parish, where they attain an elevation of
about 900 feet. The South Calder skirts the whole
northern boundary of this parish; which is also di-
vided from Carluke by Gamon burn, a beautiful
little tributary of the Clyde. The banks of the
South Calder, for a considerable way above its
junction with the Clyde, are very finely wooded.
There is abundance of excellent coal wrought here ;
also ironstone and freestone. The Shotts iron com-
pany have two blast-furnaces at Stone or Stain, in
the east end of the parish. There are extensive tile-
works at Wishaw and at Coltness. One, near
Castlehill, turns out 8.000 tiles daily, or 2,504,000
in the year. The village of Camhusnethan or
Wishawtown, is 15 miles east of Glasgow, and
4^ west of Carluke, on the road from Glasgow
to Lanark. The inhabitants — 1,700 in number —
are chiefly weavers employed by the Glasgow manu-
facturers. There is an extensive distillery here.
The village of Stain has a population of about 600 ;
and Bonkle 200. The mansion-houses of Camhus-
nethan, Wishaw, Coltness, Allanton, and Muirhouse
within this parish, are all very handsome structures.
Population of the parish in 1801, 1,972; in 1831,
3,824,. Assessed property £9,271. Houses in 1831,
701. — This parish is in the presbytery of Hamilton
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, Lockhart of
CaetlehilL Stipend £278 15s. 8d. Unappropriated
teinds £469 19s. 5d. A new parish-church is now
building; the old church, built in 1650, seated 660.
— .A United Secession congregation was established
at Danes Dikes in 1738. Church first built in 174U;
rebuilt in 17S0 ; and the pivsent one in 1818, at
Bonkle. 2 miles westward of the original site, cost
£800: sittings 560. Stipend £l20.\vith a manse
and trlebe. — A Relief congregation was established
at Wishawtown in 1822. Church built in 1822 ;
seats 740. Stipend £110, with manse and glebe.
— A Reformed Presbyterian congregation assembles
in Wishawtown. Church seats 350. Stipend £70,
with a manse and glebe. — Schoolmaster's salary £34
4s. 4Jd. In 1838 there were 9 schools in the parish,
attended bv 476 scholars.
CAMBUS VIC-HUSTAN, a small but safe har-
bour, in the shire of Sutherland and parish of Assent.
CAMBUS VIC-KER-CH1R, a safe and well-
sheltered harbour, except from the north-east gales,
in the parish of Assvnt, in Sutherland.
CAMBUS-WALLACE, in the shire of Perth
and parish of Killmadock ; 1 mile north-west of
Doune. Some years ago, several ancient graves
were discovered at Rosshall near this place ; and
tradition relates that a battle was once fought near
this spot between the families of Rosshall and
Craicton.
CAMELON, a village in the shire of Stirling and
parish of Falkirk ; at the distance of l.| mile north-
west from Falkirk ; on the line of the Forth and
Clvde canal. A handsome extension church was
built here in 1839, at a cost of £1,000; sittings
660. The population exceeds 1,000; nail-making
is the chief employment. Old Camelon, situated
about 5 furlongs without the gate where the Ro-
man road issued from the wall of Antoninus, about
half-a-mile tothe north-west, was a Roman town, and
a sea-port; and an anchor was dug up here in 1707.
There are many circumstances which authorize us to
conclude, not only that the river Carron has been
navigable farther up than the site of Old Camelon,
but also, that the sea at one time came very near to
Falkirk, and covered the whole of that district
which is now called The Carse. General Roy has
given a plan of Old Camelon in the 29th plate of his
' Military Antiquities ;' he supposes it to be the Ro-
man station Ail Vallum. Boece, and some others,
strangely confound this place with the Camelodunum
of Tacitus, now known to be St. Maldew in Essex.
CAMERON, a parish in the county of File;
bounded by St. Andrews on the north ; by Denino
on the east ; by Carnbce and Kilconquhar on the
south; and by Ceres on the west. It extends about
5 miles in length, by 4 in breadth ; and has a super-
ficial area of about 7,300 Scotch acres, of which
nearly 4,700 are under tillage. Coal and limestone
abound. At Priorletham is a remarkably fine syca-
more plane, supposed to be 450 years old. The vil-
lage lies about 4 miles south-west of St. Andrews.
Population, in 1801, 1,095; in 1831, 1,207. As-
sessed property, in 1815, £8,349. Land rental, in
1838, £8,600. Houses, in 1831, 238.— This parish
is in the presbytery of St. Andrews and synod of
Fife. It was separated from St. Andrews in 1645.
Church built in 1808; sittings 495. Stipend £199
12s. 8d., with a glebe of the value of £10. Unap-
propriated teinds £149 13s. lOd. — There is a Seces-
sion church at Lathones — Parochial schoolmaster's
salary £34 4s. 44(1., with about £10 fees. There
are two private schools, — one at Lawhead, the other
at Denhead.
CAMERON-BRIDGE, a hamlet in the parish of
Libberton; 1£ mile south of Edinburgh, on the road
to Dalkeith. — There is also a village of this name
in the parish of Markinch in Fifeshire.
CAM
199
CAM
CAMILLA (Loch). See Auchtertool.
CAMISENDUN. See Durness.
CAMLACHIE, a suburb of Glasgow, in the Ba-
ron}' parish of Glasgow; about 1^ mile east of the
cross, on the middle road to Edinburgh. Popula-
tion 1,68.5, chief! v weavers.
CAMPBELL"(Castle), a noble relic of feudal
ages, in the parish of Dollar, and in the neighbour-
hood of the village of Dollar, Clackmannanshire.
From a bridge over a small brook which runs through
the village of Dollar, there is a fine view of the ruins
of Castle Campbell, situated on the top of a round
insulated mound, which seems to have been partly
formed by the hand of Nature, and partly finished
by art. On each side is a deep ravine or glen,
clothed in thick wood, and down which run streams
that unite immediately below the castle and form
a considerable brook. The mound on which the
castle stands is nearly perpendicular on the side next
Dollar, and was formerly disjoined from the sur-
rounding hills by a ditch shelving down to the bot-
tom of the glen on each side, which rendered the
castle inaccessible except by means of a draw-
bridge ; so that it was a place of very great strength.
Though the castle stands upon an eminence, it is
surrounded on all sides by higher hills, many of
which are wooded to their summits, which gives to
the whole scenery a very picturesque, but, in certain
states of the weather and sky, a somewhat gloomy
effect. The buildings still existing form a quad-
rangle. It is not known when or by whom this
venerable pile of building was erected. It was for-
merly called the Gloume, or the Castle of Gloom,
and the Celtic names of the two brooks which en-
circle it are supposed by some to signify the burns
of Care and of Sorrow. About the year 149-3 —
when it probably first came into the possession of
the noble family of Argyle, whose property, how-
ever, it no longer is — it was called Castle Campbell,
by which name it has ever since been known. This
castle, with the whole territory belonging to the
family of Argyle, suffered by the calamities of civil
war in 1645; for the Marquis of Montrose, the
enemy and rival of the house of Argyle — or rather
his fierce allies the Macleans and Ogilvies — carried
fire and sword through the whole estate. During
this commotion the castle was destroyed, and its
magnificent ruins only now remain a sad monument
of the miseries of civil wrar.
CAMPBELLTON. a parish in Argyleshire, form-
ing, with the parish of Southend, the southern ex-
tremity of the peninsula of Kintyre. Its length is
computed at 13 miles, and its breadth varies from
6 to 12 miles. Its superficial area is about 43,750
acres. It is narrowed in the middle by the bay of
Machrihanish, or Machirhanish on one side, and the
loch of ICilkerran, or harbour of Campbellton, on
the other. This bay runs inland a considerable way,
leaving between the two oceans on the east and west
a large plain of 4 miles in length, by 3 in breadth, and
not 40 feet above the level of the sea. From this
plain both ends of the parish gradually rise into hills,
which attain the height of 1,200 feet. Bear, bar-
ley, and potatoes, are the principal crops. There is
abundance of coal at Dalvaddy, a village at the dis-
tance of 3 miles from the town of Campbellton, on
the road to Machrihanish bay ; and a canal has
been cut to convey it to the town ; but it is of an
inferior quality, and the common fuel of the poorer
classes is still peat or turf. Porphyry, and fuller's
earth or soap-rock, exist in this parish. Popula-
tion, in 1801, 7,003; in 1S31, 9,472. Assessed
property of parish and burgh, in 1815, .£2,800.
. — This parish is in the presbytery of Kintyre, and
synod of Argyle. It consists of four original par-
ishes united: viz., Kilkerran, Kilkivan, Kilchonehan,
and Kihnichael. The charge is collegiate; and there
are two parish-churches both situated in the town
of Campbellton ; in one of which, accommodating
1,528 persons, Gaelic is always preached; and in the
other, seating 1,083, English. The two ministers
officiate in the two churches, talcing the forenoon
and afternoon alternately. The Duke of Argyle is
patron of both livings. The stipend of each minis-
ter is .£146 15s. lid. ; but the annual value of the
glebe, belonging to the 1st charge, is £89 ; that of
the second £26 10s A United Secession church
was opened in the town of Campbellton in 1833;
sittings 630. Stipend £100. — An Independent
chapel, seating 300, was opened in 1829. Stipend
about £50. — A Relief congregation was established
in 1767. In 1835 this congregation split into two;
and a lawsuit as to the occupancy of the church
■ — which is a large and handsome one, seating 1 ,500
— was begun, which terminated in favour of the
party adhering to the Relief body. The stipend
of the minister, previous to the disunion, was
£180. — There is a small Roman Catholic congre-
gation ; also a Baptist and a Methodist congrega-
tion The salary of the burgh and parochial school-
master is £34 4s. 4^d., with about £140 fees, and
a house, and garden valued at £20. The aver-
age number of his pupils is 110. He is elected by
the magistrates and town-council of the burgh of
Campbellton. In 1834 there were 22 private schools
within the parish, of which 13 were in the burgh
and suburbs. — The chapels of St. Chouslan and St.
Caomhghin, though in ruins, are in tolerable pre-
servation, and the ground about them is still sacred
to sepulture ; but the chapel of St. Michael is com-
pletely demolished. Along the coast are the re-
mains of a number of forts, supposed to be Danish.
The royal burgh of Campbeli,ton, in the above
parish, was originally a small fishing- village ; but
through the interest of the Duke of Argyle — the
principal proprietor of the town and surrounding
country — was erected into a royal burgh in 1700.
The charter recites the statute 15° James VI., c.
267, by which it was statute and ordained, "for the
better entertaining and continuing of civility and
policy within the Hielandes and lies," " that there be
erected and builded within the bounds thereof, three
burghes and burrowe-towns, in the maist conuenient
and commodious partes meet for the samen ; to wit,
ane in Kintyre, another in Lochaber, and the third
in the Lewis;" — mid gives as reasons for the erec-
tion that Inverary, distant about 60 miles, was then
the only royal burgh in Argyleshire ; that the burgh
of Campbellton was a very fit and convenient place
to be erected into a royal burgh ; and that the Earl
of Argyle, to whom the same belonged in fee, was
anxious for the erection. The boundaries of the
burgh, under said charter, are the loch of Campbell-
ton, formerly called the loch of Kilkerran, on the
east ; the lands of Kilkerran and Corshill on the
south ; the lands of Moy on the west ; and the lands
of Ballingregan and Drumore on the north. The
royalty of the burgh lies within the above bounds,
and still belongs wholly in property to the Duke of
Argyle, with the exception of certain feus held
under him, and granted previous to the charter. It is
stated that there have been no feus granted since the
date of the charter. The late Duke and his predeces-
sors were formerly in the practice of granting build-
ing leases to the inhabitants for the term of three or
four nineteen years ; but latterly it has been con-
sidered that such leases are precluded by the terms
of the Argyle entail. Accordingly, since 1828, no
leases have been granted for a longer period than
nineteen years; and it is stated, that even when
CAM
200
CAM
existing leases, originally for a longer endurance,
fall in, no renewal is now granted for more than
nineteen years. No part of the territory within
burgh is held in burgage. The parliamentary bound-
aries of the burgh, for the election of a member of
parliament, extend considerably beyond the royalty,
and include the adjoining lands of Dallintober, Loch-
end, and Dallaruin. The proprietors of these lands
are in nowise fettered, and are in the practice of
selling and feuing portions of their lands. The
consequence is, that the town of Campbellton is
extending beyond the royalty in the direction of
these lands. A considerable number of houses have
een erected, and there is now a population of from
1,400 to 1,500 inhabitants on the lands of Dallinto-
ber and Dallaruin. The burgh of Campbellton was
formerly governed by a provost, two or three bail-
ies, a dean of guild, a treasurer, and 12 councillors.
Under the new Municipal act it has 17 or 18 coun-
cillors. It has no incorporated trades with exclusive
privileges. Population, in 1831, 4,869; but of the
parliamentary burgh, in 1836, 6,558. Municipal con-
stituency, in 1839, 215. Corporation revenue, in
1833, £068, of which £282 were from ladle and
causeway customs, and £120 from anchorage and
shore dues. The debts were under £500 ; and the
annual revenue exceeded the expenditure, so as gen-
erally to leave a balance for public improvements. Its
revenue, in 1838-9, was £820 3s. lid. It joins with
Ayr, Irvine, Inverary, and Oban, in sending a mem-
ber to parliament. Parliamentary constituency, in
1839, 280. It received its present name at the time
of its erection into a burgh ; before which period it
went by the name of Ceann-Loch, — that is, ' the
Head,' or ' the End of the loch,' — which it still re-
tains in the language of the country : but its oldest
name is Dahuadhoin, from having been the capital
of the ancient Scottish or Dalreudinian kingdom.
It is now a large and flourishing town, extending in
a semicircular form around the head of the bay, and
having a number of villas scattered at either end
along the declivities. The harbour is about 2 miles
long and 1 broad, in the form of a crescent ; with
from 5 to 13 fathoms water, and excellent anchor-
age. It is surrounded by high hills on each side ;
and an island called Davar — which may be reached at
low water, dry-shod, from the south shore — shelters
the entrance. It was formerly the rendezvous of the
busses employed in the herring-fishery, for which it
is admirably situated. In 1744, it possessed only
two or three small vessels. The number of regis-
tered vessels belonging to the port, in 1835, was
54; total tonnage 2,251. Custom's revenue, in
1 836, £389. Besides the fisheries — which, however,
have greatly decb'ned of late years — there is a con-
siderable trade in the distillation of whisky, and the
export of potatoes. Of the latter article about
30,000 tons are annually exported. In 1834, the
export of whisky to Glasgow exceeded 300,000 gal-
lons ; and, in 1835, the duties paid here on malt and
spirits, amounted to £104,455. Barley or bear has
in consequence of the immense demand for it, become
the staple produce of Kintyre. The Commercial
bank and British Linen company have branches here.
Six fairs are held during the year; viz., on the
1st Thursday in February; the 3d Thursday in May;
the 2d Thursday in August; the 3d Tuesday in Sep-
tember ; the Friday before Kilinichael fair in October ;
and the 3d Thursday in November. A regatta is
held in September In the centre of the main street
is a very handsome granite cross, richly ornamented
with sculptures in rehef. It bears on one side this in-
scription in Saxon letters: — " Haec: est; crux: Do-
mini: Yvari. M: K: Eachyma: quondam: Rectoris:
de Kyregan: et Domini : Andre: nati : ejus: Rec-
toris: de Kilcoman: qui banc crucem fieri faciebat."
That is, " This is the cross of Mr. Ivar M'Eachran,
formerly Rector of Kyregan, and of Mr. Andrew,
his son, Rector of Kilcoman, who caused this cross
to be erected." Gordon — by report only — mentions
this as a Danish obelisk, but does not venture its
description, as he never saw it. The tradition of
the town, however, is, that it was brought from
Iona, or from Oronsay ; although it has been stated
in a lately published work, that the cross had pro-
bably not been removed far from where it was origi-
nally placed. A well of pure spring- water issues from
a fountain in the cross ; and around it, in general, the
fish market is held. The Kintyre club has adopted
the figure of this cross as one of its distinguishing
badges. On the opposite side of the bay is a thriv-
ing suburb, called Dallintober The voyage from
Campbellton to Glasgow by steam is usually made
in from 9 to 1 2 hours ; it used frequently to occupy
sailing vessels as many days. The steamers betwixt
Glasgow and the North of Ireland also generally
touch here. — Lord Teignmouth, in his ' Sketches of
the Coasts and Islands of Scotland,' [vol. ii. pp. 380-
382] gives us the following amusing piece of gossip
relative to this thriving town: "The trees which
adorn the shore of the bay were planted about 150
years ago by a Duchess of Argyle, who was ex-
tremely partial to Cantyre, fixed her residence chiefly
at Campbellton, and inhabited a house on a site now
occupied by a small farm-house, to which, however,
it was much inferior. This lady was mother of the
great Duke John ; and she is said to have adopted
the following singular method of acquiring, for the
Duke, possession of the estates of the different pro-
prietors, Campbells, to whom Argyle, after his con-
quest of Cantyre, had granted them : — On pretence
of revising, as the story goes, she got into her hands
and destroyed the charters of these unsuspecting
people. Thus the Argyle family revoked their ori-
ginal grants. Campbell of Kildalloig, ancestor of
the present proprietor of this estate, pleasantly situ-
ated on the outside of the bay, owed the preserva-
tion of it to the shrewdness of a servant, who,
suspecting the intentions of the Duchess, ran off,
carrying away his master's charter, and restored it
not to him, till the fraud became apparent. The
family of this man were, till within few years, em-
ployed, in grateful recollection of his services, by
the family at Kildalloig. The Duchess is said to
have associated with herself, in her retreat, several
young ladies of rank, whom she watched with Ar-
gus-eyed vigilance, lest they should stoop to alli-
ance with the lairds of Cantyre. Impatient of re-
straint, they eluded her observation, and are said to
have preferred humble freedom to splendid chains."
CAMPBELTON, a village in the parishes of Ar-
dersier and Petty, and county of Inverness, situated
about li mile from Fort-George, on the coast of a
picturesque bay, and containing upwards of 800 in-
habitants. It possesses a strong chalybeate spring,
and is much frequented as a bathing-quarter. A
colony of fishermen occupies the west-end. From
Cromwell's mount, behind the village, the view is
very extensive, embracing parts of 8 or 9 counties.
CAMPLE (The), a stream in the county of
Dumfries, which has its rise in Wedder law, in the
parish of Morton, and, running a south-west course
of about 8 miles, falls into the Nith at Kirkbog.
CAMPSIE, a parish in the county of Stirling,
about 8 miles in length, and 5 in breadth ; contain-
ing about 35 square miles ; and bounded on the north-
west by Killearn ; on the north-east by Fintry ; on
the east by Kilsyth; on the south by Kirkintilloch ;
and on the west "by Strathblane. It consists of two
ridges of hills, with a considerable valley between
CAM
201
CAN
them; the south ridge being a continuation of tlie
Braes of Kilpatrick, and tlie north being known by
the name of Campsie Fells. Some of the hills are
covered with natural wood of great age and size,
and others afford pasture to sheep and black cat-
tle. The road from Kippen to Glasgow passes
through the parish. Two extensive printfields for
calico-printing exist here, several cotton factories,
and extensive alum works, at which also prussiate
of potash, and Prussian blue, are manufactured.
There is an extensive distillervat Milton, Near the
Lennox-mill printfield is the large village of Len-
nox-town. The clachan or village of Campsie, 1£
mile west of Lennox-town, and Sh east of Strath-
blane, is beautifully situated at the foot of the Fells,
near the Glassert, which falls into the Kelvin oppo-
site Kirkintilloch. The other villages are Birdston,
Milton, Kincaidfield, and Torrance. See Torrance.
The glen of the Glassert, above Campsie, is much
admired for its romantic scenery, and is often visited
during summer bv parties from Glasgow. Popu-
lation in 1801, 2,906; in 1831, 5,109; in 1836,
according to a survey by the session, 5,615, of whom
3,727 belonged to the established church; and about
500 were Irish Catholics, chiefly labourers, calico-
printers, and others. Assessed property in 1815,
±'13,909. — The parish of Campsie is in the presby-
tery and synod of Glasgow. Stipend £285 3s. 7d.
with a glebe of the value of £13 15s. Unappropri-
ated teinds £720 18s. 2d. Patron, the Crown. The
church is a handsome Gothic structure built in 1828;
sittings 1,550 There is a Relief church in Lennox-
town. It was built in 1 784 ; sittings 593. Stipend
£106, with a manse and glebe. Here is also a Roman
Catholic congregation, established in 1836, but which
formerly met at Torrance. There were 3 parish-
schools,' and 5 private schools in this parish, attended
by 275 children, in 1834 Campsie was formerly a
rectory, the parson of which was the sacristan of
the cathedral of Glasgow, and one of the residen-
tiary canons there; the cure at Campsie being served
by a vicar. Previous to its disjunction in 1649, by
the lords-commissioners for valuation of teinds, it
made a particular district of coimtry by itself, not a
little marked by peculiar manners and customs.
Situate in the Lennox, it formerly made the eastern
division of that ancient territorial thaneship ; and so
Jate as the year 1744, the payment of Black mail
was here made to Macgregor of Glengyle, for pro-
tection against the depredations of the Highland
freebooters. The last instance in this district of a
biu-on of regality exercising the jurisdiction of pit
and gallows over his dependents, is said to have
been exerted by the Viscount of Kilsyth, in the
year 1 743; when one of his own servants was hanged
for stealing silver-plate from the house of Bancloich,
upon a hill on the barony of Bancloich styled the
Gallow hill. Mr. Bell of Antermony, well-known
by his Travels in China and Persia, was a native of
this parish ; where he inherited a considerable pater-
nal estate, and died in 1780, at the venerable age of
89. Mr. James Bell, a man of very considerable
literary attainments, and well-known for his exten-
sive and profound knowledge of ancient and modern
Asiatic geography, spent the latter years of a retired
and unostentatious life in a small cottage in this par-
ish ; and his ashes now rest in the beautifully seques-
tered burying-ground at the clachan of Campsie. — ■■
Here are traces of two ancient Caledonian forts, called
The Meikle Reive, and The Maiden Castle, both of
them placed directly opposite to the Roman wall
called Graham's Dyke, near which several urns con-
taining ashes and burnt bones have been discovered.
CAMPSIE FELLS, a range of hills forming the
southern boundary of Strathmore, and running in a
bold ridge along the whole length of the stiath of
Campsie. Their general direction is from east-nort.h-
east to west-south-west, between the Forth at Stir-
ling, and the Clyde at Dumbarton. Their extreme
length may be about 25 miles ; their average breadth
8 miles. The face of these hills is broken with
crags and glens ; and on the summit and back part
is a deep moor-ground interspersed with moss. The
lulls have the appearance of volcanic or igneous
origin; and in many parts rude basaltic pillars are
seen, particularly on the road which crosses the
hill above the village of Campsie, and near to the
village of Fintry. In many places these hills ap-
pear stratified ; but the strata dip much, and are
sometimes nearly perpendicular to the horizon. The
secondary, or stratified mountains, abound with coal,
limestone, freestone, ironstone, indurated clay, and
marl. In one place a dozen or more strata of iron-
stone, with alternate layers of argillaceous schistus,
may easily be counted. In several places there arc-
appearances of copper and of lead. The highest
ridge of the Campsie Fells occurs between the sources
of the Carron and the Endrick, where they are ele-
vated 1,200 feet from its base, the elevation of which
is about 300 feet above the level of the sea, making
the height in all 1,500 feet.
CAMPSIE LINN. See Cargill.
CAMPS. See Carnock.
CAMSTRADDEN. See Luss.
CAMUS-TOWN, a village hi the shire of Forfar,
and parish of Monikie, about a quarter of a mile
south of the church. Camus Cross, a large upright
stone, is said to point out the place where Camus, a
Danish general, was slain and buried after the battle
of Barrie, in 1010. See Barrie.
CANAL. See articles Aberdeen, Ardeossan,
Caledonian canal, Crinan canal, Forth and
Clyde canal, Monkland canal, and Union
canal.
CANISBAY,* a parish in Caithness, bounded on
the north by the Pentland frith ; on the east by the
German ocean ; on the south by Wick parish ; and
on the west by Bower and Dunnet parishes. The
coast-Une is about 18 miles in extent. To the south
of Duncansby Head, [see that article,] for about
5 miles, the Wart or Warth hill extends its base to
the sea brink. The coast is in this quarter exceed-
ingly bold, and the wild and varied magnificence of
the rocks is peculiarly striking to the eye of a stran-
ger. Beyond this, for about a mile, the coast sub-
sides into a beautiful sandy beach winding around
the bay till it reaches the mansion-house of Freswick,
where it resumes its rocky and picturesque boldness,
which continues with little variation till it reaches
the confines of the parish. The lands adjacent tu
the shore, for the last 3 miles, are all under cultiva-
tion, and the soil is luxuriant and productive. The
northern coast has little of that stupendous boldness,
for which the eastern one is so remarkable. West-
wards from the Head, for 2 miles, the walk is ex-
tremely pleasant, and great luxuriancy of growth
prevails, from the shore to about a mile inland. The
beach itself consists wholly of shells and shell sand
of the purest white. In the middle of this delightful
walk, you approach the celebrated residence of John
O'Groat [see article John O'Groat's House] ;
* " Canisbay has been supposed by some to have been origi-
nally written Canonsbay ; others conjecture it to have some
connection with the Latin vocable Cams, It is, however, more
probable, that Canute's Bay was its lir>t appellation, in honour
of the arrival of some Norwegian chief ot the name of Canute.
There is indeed no account of the descent of such a chief upon
the coast, nor is there any hay in the parish now denominated
CanUbay ; but as all the places of the least note in the parish
are clearly of Norwegian derivation, it cannot be supposed that
the name of the district itself should be an excentiou." — Old
Statistical Account.
202
CANISBAY.
but, although Lis name be still illustrious here, and
has been bequeathed to certain shells, called Johnny
Groat's buckies, with which the beach is here strewn,
the spot is scarcely distinguishable where he dwelt.
Westwards from the burn of Duncansby to Houna,
moss prevails to the sea brink ; but from Houna to
Gills is one of the most fertile districts in the parish.
The parish-church is situated in the middle of this
latter district, on a green rising ground within 200
yards of the shore, the manse being about a quarter
of a mile inland from the church. Mey, part of the
property of the Earl of Caithness, terminates the
parish on the west. This is a populous and fertile
district. In 1830, its population was estimated at
576. The bays upon the coast are those of Gills,
Duncansby or Dungisbay, and Freswick; in all of
which, if the weather be moderate, vessels can lie
in safety and take in their cargoes, but none of
them are eligible stations in rough weather. Gills
bay is preferable to the rest. A celebrated tide runs
near Barrogill castle, called ' The Merry men of
Mey,' very noisy and obstreperous indeed, but no
subject of merriment to vessels, as they have to go
off their track many leagues sometimes to avoid the
vortex, and, when caught, are swept back on a
stream, like the rapids of a rapid river. This is
said to have been the scene of Grey's ' Fatal Sisters.'
translated from the Norse tongue.
Now flip Ftorm bpg-ina to lower,
(Ha*t"e, the loom of hell prepare!)
Iron sleet of arrowy shower
Hurtles in the darken'd air.
The greatest length of this parish is 8 miles; great-
est breadth 6. The whole surface may be computed
at about 44 square miles or upwards. It is a level
district. The Warth hill, on the eastern coast, is
of considerable height and magnitude, but is the only
one in the parish deserving the name. The loch of
Mey, in the north-west corner of the parish, is about
2 miles in circumference. There is no river, and
only a few rivulets, in the whole parish ; but there
are chalybeate mineral and fresh water springs in
abundance. The valued rent of the parish amounts
to ±'3,855 3s. 6d. Scotch. The real rent at the
beginning of the present century was computed at
about ±'1,300 sterling. The value of assessed pro-
perty, in 1815, £4,264. The Earl of Caithness,
Sinclair of Freswick, and the family of Brabster, are
the only proprietors in the parish. Brabster is an
inland property ; all the other cultivated lands stretch
along the coast, extending, at an average, about
half a mile from the shore. There is only one
farm, excepting such as are in the hands of the pro-
prietors, which lets for more than £50 per annum.
There are three popish chapels mouldering into de-
solation in the parish, one at Freswick, another at
Brabster, and a third at St. John's Head. Some
superstitious rites, now in total disuse, were wont
to be performed by the ignorant vulgar, on particular
days, at these sanctified ruins. St. John's Head,
upon the north coast, is one of the pleasantest spots in
the whole parish. It affords evident tokens of hav-
ing been, in former ages, a residence of respectability;
from a burying-ground, and the vestiges of an old
chapel in the neighbourhood — now in total ruins —
as well as from the name it bears, it would seem to
have been consecrated to religious purposes. The
vestiges of a ditch and drawbridge defending it on
the land side, show it to have been occupied as a
place of strength and security. Betwixt Brabster
and Freswick there is a deep hollow, called, in the
dialect of the parish, the Wolf's geo, which must
have derived its name from being the haunt of
wolves in former times. There are other circum-
stances handed down by tradition, which tend to
prove, that this ravenous animal was once an in-
habitant of Canisbay Barrogill castle, belonging to
the Earl of Caithness, is an old aristocratic pile.
It has, says Miss Sinclair, "all the internal elegance
of a house in London, and all the exterior dignity
of an ancient Highland residence. Some admirable
improvements have been recently made by Burn ;
and the staircase, which was formerly outside, as
high as the drawing-room floor, is now thrown into
the house, while several windows have been thrown
out, which were greatly wanted. In those peaceful
times, when there is no longer any necessity for a
castle to be fortified, it is pleasing to see the gloomy
strength of former days exchanged for a more smiling
aspect; and here we found some first-rate pictures
by the best masters, a haunted apartment, abundance
of interesting family portraits, and a forest of the
very best trees that Caithness can produce." [' The
Northern Circuit,' p. 66.] — The ruins of three an-
cient towers or castles are still to be seen ; one in
Mey, another south of the present mansion-house
of Freswick, and a third on the west side of the
island of Stroma: they are all built upon rocks rising
out of the sea, and have been occupied as places of
defence. The principal public roads in the par-
ish are those leading from Houna southwards to
Wick, and westwards to Thurso. The distance
from Wick to Houna is 16| miles; and from Houna
to Thurso 18 miles. From Houna the ferry-boat
crosses with the mails for Orkney every Tuesday,
Thursday, and Saturday. From Burwick in South
Ronaldshay, the Orkney mails in like manner cross
to Houna. The distance — being the shortest be-
twixt Caithness and Orkney — is reckoned 12 miles.
If a passenger goes along with the mails, the freight
is Is. ; but if he hires the ferry-boat for himself, it
is 10s. Although the Pentland frith is deservedly
accounted the most tempestuous piece of sea around
Britain, it is remarkable how few accidents happen
in crossing it. The danger it threatens suggests the
means of preventing it. The time of tide is ob-
served to a minute in putting out to sea ; the boat ?
are strong and of good construction ; and the boav-
men perfect masters of their business, and acquainted
from their infancy with every circumstance respect-
ing the variation of the tides they have to go
through. Sometimes, however, the communication
even with the adjacent island of Stroma, is suspended
for weeks. In the summer-season there is almost a
continued communication betwixt Caithness and
Orkney in the traffic of horses. Colts from the
highlands of Caithness, from Sutherland and Strath-
naver, are sold to Orkney ; and these very colts,
when past their prime, are again brought from Ork-
ney, and re-imported into Caithness. By far the
greater number of these cross to and from the shore*
of Canisbay, on account of the shortness of the pas.
sage. Population, in 1801, 1,986; in 1831, -2,304,
Houses 475 This parish is in the presbytery oi
Caithness, and synod of Sutherland and Caithness.
Stipend ±'205 10s. Id., with a glebe of the value of
£6. Unappropriated teinds £151 7s. 2d. Patron,
Sinclair of Freswick. A part of the parish contain-
ing, in 1831, a population of 1,801, was annexed, in
1833, to the quoad sacra parish of Kciss. Church
repaired in 1832; sittings 512 There is a small
Baptist church at the Mill of Mey ; and the Inde-
pendents have a place of meeting at Freswick —
Salary of parish schoolmaster £34 4s. 4id. In 1834
there were 6 private schools within this parish, at-
tended by about 150 children. The island of Stro-
ma, in the Pentland frith, about 3 miles from the
shore of Canisbay, with a population, in 1836, of 240,
belongs to this parish. See article Stroma.
CAN
203
CAN
CANNA, one of the four islands of the Hebrides
which form the parish of Small Isles in Argyle. It is
3 miles north-west of Rum, and 12 south-west from
the nearest point of Skye. It is about 4i miles long;
and I broad: containing, with the contiguous island
of Sanday, 429 arable acres, and 1,794 acres of green
pasture. The gross rental in 1828 was .£540 12s.
lOd. Its surface is partly high and rocky, but in no
place rising more than 800 feet above sea level;* and
partly low, and tolerably fertile. The land is higher
towards the west end ; about the middle it subsides
into a flattish neck, from which it rises again towards
the east. The horned cattle of Canna grow to a
larger size than any in the neighbouring islands,
owing to the fineness of the grass; there is little
heath. Potatoes chiefly are cultivated. Cod and
ling abound on the coast, and the harbours are
conveniently situated for the fishing-grounds. On
the south-east side of Canna lies Sanda, or San-
day, separated by a channel which is dry at low
water. See Sanday. Between this island and
Canna lies the well-known and much frequented
harbour of Canna, 30 miles distant from that of Eigg.
A great many basaltic pillars are to be seen in Canna,
particularly on the southern side, where the basaltic
structure appears in different ranges rising in a suc-
cession of terraces. One of the hills to the north-
west of the harbour, called the Compass hill, is re-
markable for its effects on the magnetic needle.
Canna contained 304 inhabitants in 1796; and only
2G4 in 1831. The population are all Catholics. See
Small Isles. Houses, in 1831, 45 When Dean
Monroe wrote, Canna belonged to the abbot of Icolm-
kill. It is now the property of Mr. Maeneill, who
has done much for the amelioration of its population,
by encouraging emigration, preventing subletting, and
not allowing any public-house upon it.
CANNOR (Loch), a small lake in Aberdeen-
shire, in the parish of Glenmuick, about 3 miles in
circumference, and containing several small islands ;
on the largest of which — about an acre in extent —
there formerly stood a small fortress occasionally oc-
cupied as a hunting-seat by Malcolm Canmore.
CANOBY, or CANNOBiE,t a parish in the county
of Dumfries; bounded on the north by Langholm;
on the east by Castletown ; on the south by Cum-
berland, from which it is divided by the Liddel ; and
on the west by Half-Morton. It is about 9 miles in
length, and 6 in breadth; containing 23,000 impe-
rial acres. It may be considered as the low lands of
Eskdale; for its highest grounds — which rise gradu-
ally to the east and north-east — as contrasted with the
elevated peaks in the conterminous parishes, cannot
be called mountains ; at the same time the surface is
very uneven, and diversified by ridges and flats, ex-
cepting the haughs on the banks of the Esk. The cen-
tral part is intersected by the Esk; and the great
road from Edinburgh to Carlisle runs through this
district in the same direction, amidst beautifully pic-
turesque scenery. The soil is a light loam, shel-
tered by a profusion of wood in every part. Besides
the Esk, this parish is watered by the Llddel, which
divides it from England, and the Tarras, remarkable
for its rugged channel and romantic scenery, which
divides it from Langholm: see these articles. The
* Macculloch, in liis Letters on the ' Highlands and Western
Tali's,' [vol. iv. p. 31,] supposes some points of Canna to atta'li
an elevation of 800 or even 1,000 feet. We are certain that ilie
latter admeasurement is erroneous. Indeed the same author,
in his ' Western Islands," [vol. i. p. 445,] adopts the (ortner of
these two admeasurements, which we think is stilj cousider-
al.ly ahove the truth.
t.We find this name also written Cnnnoby, and Canonbie.
Chalmers considers the name to signify ' the Canon's residence:'
a cauonry having been founded here, in the ]2th century, liy
Turgot de Rossedal, who ttave it to the monks ot Jedburgh.
See ' Caledonia,' vol. iii. p. 202.
Archerbeek and Rowanburn are tributaries of tha
Liddel. The number of acres occupied by wood
cannot be less than 1,500, of which oak is the chief.
A number of orchards were formed here about 45
years a^ro by the Duke of Buccleuch, and have all
succeeded well. Freestone, limestone, and coal, are
abundant. At Rowanburn an excellent seam of coal,
9 feet thick, is wrought ; and another seam of 7 feet
has recently been discovered. There are extensive
lime-works at Harelawhill and Halhouse. There is a
strong chalybeate spring at Heathet, on the Cumber-
land side of the Liddel, and a spring on the banks of the
Tarras which has a petrifying quality. Population
in 1801, 2,580; in 1831, 2,997; in 1836, 3,10S, of
whom 2,797. belonged to the Established church.
This parish is in the presbytery of Langholm, and
synod of Dumfries. Stipend £236 i2s. 6d., with a
glebe of the value of £20. Unappropriated Crown
teinds £1,063 7s. 6d. Patron, the Duke of Buc-
cleuch. Church built in 1821-22; sittings 1,000.
— Schoolmaster's salary £31 6s. 6d., with about
£35 fees. There were also 5 private schools with-
in this parish in 1834 Some ruins of a convent
or priory, built before the year 11 65, are still to
be seen at Halgreen — or, perhaps, rather Haly or
Holy-green — about haif-a-mile to the east of the
church. The church and convent are said to have
been demolished by the English, after the battle
of Solway Moss ; which is not improbable, as the
reason assigned in King Henry's manifesto for com-
mitting hostilities upon the Scottish borders, not
long before that event, was a pretended claim to the
parish of Canoby, as part of the English territory.
Part of the old wall of the church still remains, to
which the modern building is united ; and in which
is preserved a small arch that probably marks the
place of sepulchre of some prior, or person of dis-
tinction. On the suppression of the parish of Mor-
ton, in 1 703, one-half of it was added to the parish
of Canoby.
This parish, being exposed to the incursions of the
English borderers, presents many vestiges of strong-
holds ; although there is only one whose walls are
yet entire, namely, the tower of Hollows, once the
residence of the famous Border chieftain, Johnnie
Armstrong, in the reign of James V. It is a roofless
strength, built of red sandstone, in the form of an
oblong square, about 60 feet by 46. " Amongst the
clans on the Scottish side, the Armstrongs were for-
merly one of the most numerous and potent. They
possessed the greater part of Liddesdale and of the
debateable land. All along the banks of the Liddal,
the ruins of their ancient fortresses may still be
traced. The habitual depredations of this border-
race had rendered them so active and daring, and at
the same time so cautious and circumspect, that they
seldom failed either in their attacks or in securing
their prey. Even when assailed by superior num-
bers, they baffled every assault, by abandoning their
dwellings, and retiring with their families into thick
woods and deep morasses, accessible by paths only
known to themselves. One of their most noted
places of refuge was the Terras-moss, a frightful and
desolate marsh, so deep that two spears tied together
could not reach the bottom. Although several of
the Scottish monarchs had attempted to break the
chain which united these powerful and turbulent chief-
tains, none ever had greater occasion to lower their
power, and lessen their influence, than James V. Dur-
ing his minority, the kingdom was torn by their dissen-
sions, the laws were disregarded, and even the rights of
the sovereign were deeply infringed. But no sooner
did this gallant young prince free himself from the
vassalage in which he had been held by Douglas earl
of Angus, and his brother, than he began to reform
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tlie abuses in his kingdom with such spirit and zeal,
as manifested a determined resolution to suppress
them. After banishing the Douglasses, and restor-
ing order and tranquillity to the interior, he next
directed his attention to the due administration of
justice on the Border. He accordingly raised a
powerful army, chiefly composed of cavalry, ' to
danton the thieves of Tiviotdale, Annandale, Lid-
desdale, and other parts of the country.' Aware,
however, that these depredators could never be
effectually crushed, unless the chieftains who pro-
tected them were properly secured, he took the
necessary precaution of forfeiting, or committing the
whole of them to ward, with the exception of Cock-
burn of Henderland, and Scott of Tushielaw, com-
monly called the King of the Border, who were
publicly executed. About the beginning of June,
1529, the king departed from Edinburgh at the head
of his army, and marched rapidly through Ettriek
Forest, and Ewsdale. During this expedition, John
Armstrong of Gilnoekie, the hero of the ballad, pre-
sented himself before the king with thirty-six of his
followers, in expectation of obtaining pardon. This
Armstrong, as we are told by Pitscottie, ' was the
most redoubted chieftain that had been for a long
time on the borders either of Scotland or England.
He ever rode with twenty-four able gentlemen, well-
horsed; yet he never molested any Scottish man.'
It is said that, from the borders to Newcastle, every
Englishman, of whatever state, paid him tribute.
Glenockie came before the king with his foresaid
number, (thirty-six,) richly apparelled, trusting that,
in respect of this free offer of his person, he should
obtain the king's favour. But the king, seeing him
and his men so gorgeous in their apparel, frowardly
turned himself about, and bade them take the tyrant
out of his sight, saying, ' What wants that knave
that a king should have ?' John Armstrong made
great offers to the king, that he should sustain him-
self with forty gentlemen, ever ready at his service,
on their own cost, without wronging any Scottish
man. Secondly, that there was not a subject in
England, duke, earl, or baron, but, within a certain
day, he should bring him to his majesty, either quick
or dead. At length he, seeing no hope of favour,
said very proudly, ' It is folly to seek grace at a
graceless face : but, had I knovra this, I should have
lived on the borders in despite of King Henry and
you both ; for I know that King Harry woidd down-
weigh my best horse with gold to know that I were
condemned to die this day.' Lindsay of Pitscottie's
History, p. 145. -.-This execution is also noticed by
Hollinshead, who says, that, ' In the month of June,
1529, the king, with an army, went to the borders,
to set order there for better rule to be kept, and to
punish such as were known to be most culpable.
And hereupon, he caused forty-eight of the most
notable thieves, with their captain, John Armestrang,
to be apprehended ; the which, being convicted of
murder, theft, and treason, were all hanged on grow-
ing trees, to the example of others. There was one
cruel thief among the rest, who had burned a house
with a woman and her children within it; he was
burned to death. George Armestrang, brother to
John, was pardoned, to the end lie should impeach
the residue, which he did ; so they were apprehended
by the king's commandment, and punished for their
misdoings, according as they had deserved.' Hol-
linshead s ' Scottish Chronicle,' vol. ii. p. 182 .
This historian appears, however, to have confounded
John Armstrong and his party, with the whole other
depredators who were executed during the march.
The place where John Armstrong and his followers
suffered, was at Carlenrig chapel, about 10 miles
above Hawick, on the high road to Langholm.
They were buried in a desert churchyard, where
their graves are still pointed out. The peasantry in
these districts hold the memory of John Armstrong
in high estimation, and scruple not to affirm, that
the growing trees mentioned by the historians with-
ered away as a manifest sign of the injustice of the
execution. They likewise assert, that one of Arm-
strong's attendants, by the strength and swiftness of
his horse, forced his way through the ranks of the
surrounding host, and carried the tidings of the
melancholy fate of his master and companions to
Gilnoekie castle. Although George Armstrong of
Mangerton had received a pardon from the late
sovereign, the death of his brother John was nei-
ther to be soon forgotten, nor the descendants of the
sufferers easily to be pacified. Indeed, the hostile
and turbulent spirit of the Armstrongs was never
broken or suppressed, until the reign of James VI.,
when their leaders were brought to the scaffold,
their strongholds razed to the ground, and their
estates forfeited and transferred to strangers. So
that, throughout the extensive districts formerly pos-
sessed by this once powerful and ancient clan, there
is scarcely left, at this day, a single landholder of
the name. The death of this redoubted border hero
is noticed by Buchanan. It is likewise frequently
alluded to by the writers of that age. Sir David
Lindsay of the Mount, in his ' Satyre of the Three
Estates,' introduces a pardoner, or knavish dealer in
reliques, who, in enumerating his halie wares, is
made to say,
Here is ane enird baith grit and lang,
Quilk harigit John the Armestrang,
Of ende hemp soft and sound ;
Glide hailie peopill, I stand ford,
Quha ever beis hangit with tins coird,
Neids never to be dround T
In the 'Complaynt of Scotland,' John Armestrang's
dance is also mentioned as a popular tune. The
celebrated ballad of ' Johnie Armestrang,' was first
published by Allan Ramsay, in his 'Evergreen,' in
1724, who tells us, that he copied it from the mouth
of a gentleman of the name of Armstrong, who was
the sixth generation from the above John."* [Sten-
house's Notes to the 'Musical Museum,' vol. iv. pp.
328 — 332.] — Near Penton Linns, a romantic spot on
the Liddel, was another Border stronghold, called
Harelaw tower, once the residence of Hector Arm-
strong, who betrayed his guest, the Earl of Northum-
berland, to the regent Murray.
CANONGATE, a parish and suburb of Edin-
burgh, occupying the eastern district of that city,
and comprehending the Canongate Proper, the Plea-
sartce, North Leith, Coal hill, and the chapel and
palace of Holyrood-house, and the adjacent parks.
It is a burgh-of-barony, under the superiority or
Edinburgh, since the year 1630; and is governed by
a baron-bailie, nominated by the corporation of
Edinburgh, and two resident bailies appointed by the
inhabitants. Population in 1831, 10,175. Revenue
about .£400, arising chiefly from petty customs levied
at the Watergate. While Edinburgh was the seat
of royalty, the Canongate was the place of residence
of most of the noble families who attended the court;
and there are several old houses which retain the
names of the noble owners ; such as Milton house,
Queensberry house, &c. ; but it is now chiefly in-
* It was a lineal descendant (if this celebrated freebooter, who,
in the reign of Charles I. kidnapped the person of Lord Dune,
the president of the rourt of session, and kept him upwards of
three months in secret confinement In an old cattle in Annan-
dale, called Graham's tower. The motive for this extraordi-
nary and daring stratagem was to promote the interests rrf
Lord Traqusir, who had a b.wsuit of importance before tlm
court, in which there was resann to believe that the judgment
would be unfavuuiuble, and decided by the casting-vote of the-
president.
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habited by trades-people, and those of the lower
order. See articles Edinburgh and Holyrood.
CANONMILLS, a village, or rather a suburb,
a little to the north of the new town of Edinburgh,
on the water of Leith, where there are extensive
Hour-mills and a distillery. The Newhaven railway
here enters the tunnel by which it is carried under the
New town to the east end of Princes-street gardens.
CANTYRE. See Kintyre.
CAOLISPORT, a district in the shire of Argyle,
and parish of South Knapdale. It comprises the
point of Knap, and a fine loch on the Atlantic ocean,
which abounds with fish of various kinds. It has
also a commodious harbour.
CAPELAW, one of the Pentland hills, in the
parish of Collington, Edinburghshire, having an alti-
tude of 1,550 feet above sea level.
CAPE WRATH, a celebrated head-land, in the
PSMsTi of Durness in Sutherlandshire, forming the
north-west point of Scotland, in 58° 37' N. lat.,
and 5° W. long. It is a fine promontory of granitic
gneiss, towering up in a pyramidal form to the height
of 300 feet, and standing boldly out into the waves.
" Nothing," says Macculloch, " can exceed the ele-
gance and majesty of its form, declining towards the
sea in a second and much lower pyramidal rock; the
whole forming an outline as graceful as it is unex-
pected, and as grand as it is appropriate. No ves-
sels approach this shore, as the rapidity and turbu-
lence of the tide are extreme ; and as this is esteemed
both a difficult and a dangerous point to double.
The captain therefore thought fit to haul off and
stand further out to sea ; when, perceiving an aper-
ture through the pyramid, by means of the spying
glass, I proposed to the men to take the boat and
stand in shore, to examine it more nearly. As we
approached the cape, an arched passage appeared
through each pyramid ; the largest being in the high-
est rock, and appearing to be about seventy or eighty
feet high. Nothing could now be more magnificent ;
the lofty cliffs on our right hand being broken into
a thousand rude forms, and the cape itself, with its
double pyramid, towering above them and projecting
far out from the land, bke a gigantic wall, — a tri-
umphal arch worthy of Neptune. The green sea
Was foaming all round the foot of the rocks ; and, as
we drew nearer, the low sullen roar increased, add-
ing awfulness to a scene already terrific. We were
soon sensible that we had been fast falling into the
most rapid stream of the tide ; and could now per-
ceive that it was running with the velocity of a tor-
rent, through both the passages and round the point.
The men held their oars in the water, for they were
now useless, and there was a dead silence. I saw
that they were alarmed, and uncertain what to do ;
but it was plain, in less than a minute, that retreat
was out of the question, and that if we attempted to
weather the point, we might probably fail, and be
lost upon it. I proposed to the boatswain to go
through the arch ; since a minute's hesitation would
have carried us into the breakers, and left the his-
tory of Cape Wrath untold. To propose a choice
where there was none, was mere matter of policy ;
but it served its purpose. Not a word was answered ;
and as the helm in my hand was now useless, all the
oars were kept in the water, to steady and steer by
through the boiling current ; when, almost before
we had time to think what was to follow, we were
whirled through, I know not how, and, in an in-
stant, found ourselves lodged in an eddy in a deep
fissure of the cliff; the first, assuredly, who had ever
performed this feat. Here, with the flood, there is
.some smooth water ; out of which it is just possible
to scramble up, on a ledge of rocks within, a deep
fissure, and thus to study the scene at leisure. This
situation too is very fine ; the green waves surging
with a hollow noise into this recess, which is only
illuminated partially from without, and extends per-
pendicularly upwards the whole height of the cliffs,
to an altitude of five or six hundred feet ; just afford-
ing a glimpse of the sky. The aspect of the cape is
here tremendously striking; as, from its proximity,
it now towers over head, to an imaginary and un-
limited height; while the turbulence and roar of the
stream of tide through the arches, and the foaming
of the sea against the cliffs, added indescribably to
the effect. Nor was it a small addition, that this
situation was attended with some anxiety, if not
danger; as the rising of the wind, or the shifting of
the tide from the flood to the ebb, might have ren-
dered it impossible to get off again." ['Highlands
and Western Isles,' pp. 361—363.] In 1828, a
lighthouse was erected here at an expense of £ 14,000.
It shows a white revolving light, which is elevated
400 feet above high water, and is seen at the dis-
tance of 24 miles in clear weather. In 1838, the
expense of maintaining this light was £ 604 16s. lid.
The Butt of Lewis on the south-west, and the Hoy-
head of Orkney towards the north-east, can be
seen in clear weather from the top of this light-
house. See Durness.
CAPUTH, a parish in the district of Perthshire
called Stormont, bounded by Dowlay and Blairgow-
rie on the north ; Cluny and Lethendy on the east ;
Kinclaven and Auchteravan on the south; and Little
Dunkeld on the west. It comprehends an extensive
portion of Strathmore, stretching in length nearly 13
miles, and varying in breadth from 1 to 6. Its super-
ficies is estimated at 16,000 imperial acres. There
are several detached portions belonging to this par-
ish ; viz. Batholmie, locally situated in the parish of
Cargill ; West and Middle Gormack, in Kinloch ;
East and West Logie, Raemore, Cairns, Chapelton,
Meadows and Crofty, in Clunie ; and Craigtown of
Dalrulzeon, in Kirk-Michael; all in the shire of
Perth. And, South Bandirran, in Collace ; Bal-
beuchly, in Aughterhouse ; Broughty castle and
fishings, and a small piece of ground at Mylnfield,
near Dundee ; and Fofarty in Kinnettles, where
there is a field of about 4 acres, called, from time
immemorial, the Minister of Caputh's glebe, and
believed to belong to him, though not hitherto oc-
cupied ; all in the shire of Forfar. These remote
portions — with the exception of Dalrulzeon and Rae-
more— are now considered as belonging, quoad sacra,
to the parishes in which they are respectively situ-
ated. The district of Dalrulzeon, containing a
population of from 70 to 80, and which is 15 miles
distant from the parish-church, has been annexed to
the chapelry of Persie in Bendochy. The Tay, the
Isla, and the Lunan, water this parish. The Lunan
in its course here forms a succession of small but
beautiful lakes, and at last falls into the Isla. The
surface of this district is mountainous ; the soil of
the arable part is mostly a deep clay, except on the
banks of the Tay and Isla, where it is a light loam.
There are five or six small villages in the parish.
The hills afford very fine blue slate. There are
several antiquities, as druidical circles, cairns, &c. :
of the last, one called Cairnmuir is esteemed the
largest of the country. Population, in 1801, 2,097;
in 1831, 2,303. Houses, in 1831, 467. Assessed
property, in 1815, £8,8S1. — This parish is in the
presbytery of Dunkeld, and synod of Perth and Stir-
ling. Stipend £232 15s. lid., with a glebe of the
value of £22 10s. Patron, the Crown. Church built
in 1798; sittings 800 Schoolmaster's salary £34
4s. 4d., with about £30 fees. There were 6 private
schools in 1834.
CARA, a small island in Argyleshire ; Sh miles
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west of Kintyre, and about a mile south of Gigha,
to which it is attached parochially. It is about a
mile in length, and half-a-mile in breadth. The
shore is high and rocky, except at the north-east
end, where there is a landing-place. The south end,
called the Mull of Cara, which is the highest part of
the island, is a perpendicular rock 117 feet in height.
From the shore to the foot of this precipice there is
a steep ascent, equal to 50 feet perpendicular, which
makes the whole 167 feet. This rock contains a
great deal of iron-ore, and in one place — which was
struck with lightning about the year 1756 — large
pieces of metallic-ore were thrown down, which
seemed to be a mixture of copper and iron. Close
by this part of the rock is a cave 40 feet long, 5
high, and 5 broad, which communicates with another
37 feet in length, 9 in breadth, and 9 in height. The
north-east part of the island abounds with rabbits.
Adjoining to the house of the farmer is an old cha-
pel, 26 feet long, and 12 broad, with a Gothic arched
door. See Gigha.
CARALDSTON, or Cakeston, a parish in For-
farshire ; about 3 miles in length, and 1 in breadth ;
bounded by Menmuir on the north ; Brechin on the
east ; Aberlemno on the south ; and Tannadice and
Fearn on the west. The surface is well-cultivated,
with a gentle slope from north to south. The soil
is deep and fertile ; and the banks of the South Esk
and Norin, which unite in this parish, are beautifully
ornamented with plantations. Population, in 1801,
229; in 1831, 252. Assessed property, in 1815,
.£3,280. Houses, in 1831, 55 This parish is in
the presbytery of Brechin, and synod of Angus and
Mearns. Stipend £158 7s. 6d., with a glebe of the
value of ±'8. Patron, the Earl of Fife. School-
master's salary, £34 4s. 4d. with about £12 fees.
There is a small private school.
CARBERRY HILL, a gently rising ground, in
the parish of Inveresk, in Mid-Lothian; 2 miles
(south-east of Musselburgh, and 7 from Edinburgh.
Here Queen Mary surrendered herself to the con-
federated lords, June 15, 1567, prior to her impri-
sonment in Lochleven castle. The transaction is
thus related by Bell: "It was now between seven
and eight in the evening, and a battle must have
ensued, either that night or next morning, had not
an unexpected step been taken by the queen. With-
out betraying Bothwell, she formed a resolution to
rid herself from the bondage in which he kept her.
She sent to desire that Kircaldy of Grange should
come to speak with her, and she intimated to him
her willingness to part from Bothwell as was de-
manded, if Morton and the other lords would under-
take to conduct her safely into Edinburgh, and there
return to their allegiance. This overture, on being
reported by Grange, was at once accepted, provided
Mary agreed to dismiss Bothwell on the field. It
may be easily conceived, that, to Bothwell himself,
such an arrangement was not particularly agree-
able, and could never have entered the imagination,
much less have been the deliberate proposal, of a
loving and obedient wife. Historians, we think,
have not sufficiently insisted on the strong presump-
tion in Mary's favour, afforded by her conduct at
Carberry Hill. It is true that there might have
been an understanding between her and Bothwell,
that as soon as she was reinstated in her power, she
would recall him to a share of her throne and bed.
But even supposing that, notwithstanding the alleged
violence of her love, she had been willing to consent
to a temporary separation, both she and Bothwell
knew the spirit of the men they had to deal with
too well to trust to the chance of outwitting them,
after yielding to their demands. Mary must have
been aware) that if she parted with Bothwell at all,
she, in all probability, parted with him for ever.
Had she truly loved him, she would rather have
braved all risks (as she did with Darnley when Mur-
ray rebelled) than have abandoned him just at the
crisis of his fortune. But she had at no period felt
more than the commonest friendship for Bothwell ;
and since she had been seized by him at the Bridge
of Almond, she had absolutely hated him. Melville,
accordingly, expresses himself regarding this trans-
action in these term : ' Albeit her majesty was at
Carberry Hill, I cannot name it to be her army ; for
many of them that were with her, were of opinion
that she had intelligence with the lords ; chiefly such
as understood of the Earl Bothwell's mishandling of
her, and many indignities that he had both said and
done unto her since their marriage. He was so
beastly and suspicious, that he suffered her not to
pass a day in patience, or without giving her cause
to shed abundance of salt tears. Thus, part of his
own company detested him ; and the other part be-
lieved that her majesty would fain have been quit
of him, but thought shame to be the doer thereof
directly herself.' Melville adds, that, so determined
was Bothwell not to leave the field if he could avoid
it, he ordered a soldier to shoot Grange when he
overheard the arrangement which he and the queen
were making. It was ' not without great difficulty,'
says another contemporary writer, that Mary pre-
vailed upon Bothwell to mount his horse, and ride
away with a few followers back to Dunbar. The
difficulty there would be in bringing about this con-
summation cannot be doubted ; but that a wife of
one month's standing, who is said for his sake to
have murdered her former husband, should permit,
nay beseech him, thus to sneak off a field he might
have won, had she allowed him to fight, is a far
more legitimate cause of wonder. AVhen Bothwell
left Carberry Hill, he turned his back upon a queen
and a throne ; — he left hope behind, and must have
seen only ruin before. As soon as her husband had
departed, Mary desired Grange to lead her to the
lords. Morton and the rest came forward to meet
her, and received her with all due respect. The
queen was on horseback, and Grange himself walked
at her bridle. On riding up to the associated nobles,
she said to them,-^' My Lords, I am come to you,
not out of any fear I had of my life, nor yet doubting
of the victory, if matters had gone to the worst; but
I abhor the shedding of Christian blood, especially
of those that are my own subjects; and therefore I
yield to you, and will be ruled hereafter by your
counsels, trusting you will respect me as your born
princess and queen.' " [' Life of Mary, Queen of
Scots,' edn. 1840, pp. 101, 102.]
CARDEN, a hill in the south-west of the Kil-
bueho district of Broughton parish, Peebles-shire ;
elevated about 1,400 feet above the level of the
Tweed.
CARDROSS, a parish in the county of Dumbar-
ton ; about 8 miles in length, and from 2 to 4 in
breadth ; bounded on the north by Luss ; on the
east by the river Leven, which divides it from Bon-
hill and Dumbarton ; on the south by the frith of
Clyde ; and on the west by the parish of Row. The
superficial extent of the parish is about 13,000 acres,
of which one-half are under tillage. Assessed pro-
perty in 18J5, £6,390, The bed of the Clyde is
here from 1 to 2 miles in width, but a considerable
tract of land might be redeemed by embanking, the
river itself having evidently contracted its limits in
this quarter. The gains on salmon-fishings in the
Clyde in this parish, were very valuable in former
ages, but are now of little value. The fishings in
the Leven belong to the corporation of Dumbarton.
The surface rises, with a gradual ascent, from the
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sliore for upwards of 2 miles, till it terminates in a
ridge which separates it from the lands in the neigh-
bourhood of the Leven and Loch Lomond. On the
sliore, the soil is gravelly and thinly covered with
mould ; at a short distance, it becomes clay ; the
lands adjacent to the Leven are of the nature of
carse. The natural wood and plantations cover
about 300 acres. The printfields and bleaching-
fields in this parish employ a number of hands ; and
the village of Renton, founded in 1782, is rapidly
increasing. See Renton. The village of Bridgend
contained in 1831 a population of 635. It is properly
a suburb of Dumbarton Near Renton, in the old
mansion-house of Dalquhurn or Bonhill, was born To-
bias Smollett, the well-known author of ' Roderick
Random.' After a chequered life of 51 years, he died
at Leghorn, whither he had gone for the recovery of
his health, in 1771. Adjacent to the place of his
nativity, Smollett of Bonhill, his cousin, erected a
lofty Tuscan column to his memory, with a Latin
inscription A little west of the Leven, upon a
small wooded eminence called Castlehill, at the first
milestone from Dumbarton, stood a residence of
King Robert Bruce. In this castle — of which no
vestige is now discernible — that favourite prince, as
history and tradition inform us, breathed his last on
June 7, 1329, at the age of 55 Population, in 1801,
2,549 ; in 1831, 3,59G. Houses 374— The village
of Cardross lies on the shores of the frith, is 3^ miles
west of Dumbarton, and 4.V east of Helensburgh.
Ferry-boats formerly used to ply regularly between
this place and Port-Glasgow, on the opposite coast.
It appears from a register of the weather kept at
Keppoch, in this parish, from 1S26 to 1832, that
the average highest range of the barometer during
these seven years was 30^^, and the lowest 28^^ ;
while the highest range of the thermometer was
84°, and the average 78°. There is preserved at
Keppoch an original portrait of Principal Carstairs.
■ — This parish is in the presbytery of Dumbarton,
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Stipend .£155 8s.
9d., with a glebe of the value of £25. Patron, the
Crown. Church built in 1826; sittings 800. There
are a United Secession church, and a chapel-of-ease or
missionary station, in the village of Renton ; and a
Relief congregation in Bridgend. Schoolmaster's
salary £34, with about £60 fees. In 1834, there
were 7 private schools in the parish attended by
about 300 scholars. A considerable portion of the
parochial schoolmaster's emoluments arise from a
mortification in land and money, by Napier of Kil-
malow, in the 17th century. In 1G90, Mrs. Jane
Moore bequeathed £500 for behoof of the poor in this
parish. From this bequest the ?<mds of Balleme-
noch, now yielding a yearly rent of above £200,
were purchased, besides £1,000 invested in the 3
per cents, under trust of the minister, heritors, and
kirk-session.
CARESTON. See Cabaldston.
CARFRAE MILL, a well-known stage on the
road from Edinburgh to Kelso, by Lauder ; 21 miles
from Edinburgh, 20J from Kelso, and 5\ from
Lauder. It is pleasantly situated near the Leader,
in the parish of Channelkirk.
CARGILL, a parish of Perthshire, in Strath-
more ; bounded by Lethendy and that part of Cupar-
Angus which belongs to Perthshire, on the north ;
by Cupar- Angus in Forfar, and by Colace, on the
east ; by St. Martins on the south ; and by Kin-
claven on the west. It is about 6 miles in length,
and from 4 to 5 in breadth. The surface is finely
diversified with wood and water, and variegated by-
gentle ascents and deebvities. Rising gradually for
about a mile from the Tay, which bounds it on the
west, it then forms a plain of near 2 miles in breadth,
extending to the Sidlaw hills, which form the south
boundary. The soil, on the banks of the river, is a
deep rich clay ; towards the middle it is loamy ; at
the foot of the hills it becomes gravelly and unpro-
ductive. Near the west end of the parish, the Tay
forms what is called the Linn of Campsie, by falling
over a rugged basaltic dyke which crosses the bed
of the river at this place, and extends in a right line
many miles to the north and south of it. The most
romantic and magnificent views on the Tay are in
this parish. The Isla runs into the Tay about half-
a-mile above the village of Cargill. The salmon-
fisheries on both these rivers are of considerable
value. In former times this parish abounded with
wood: at present, there are only about 100 acres of
natural coppice, and 400 of plantation. Several free-
stone quarries of excellent quality and colour have
been wrought here to a considerable extent. Lime-
stone also is found, and might be wrought to good
account : there is also abundance of rock marl. Near
the confluence of the Tay and Isla are vestiges of a
Roman encampment : the fossa are yet distinct, and
the aqueduct by which they were filled from a neigh-
bouring river is in a state of high preservation. A
Roman road, about 20 feet broad, composed of rough
round stones rudely laid together, passes along the
high grounds Stobhall, formerly a seat of the Perth
family, now belonging to Lord Willoughby D'Eresby,
is an old fabric fancifully situated on a narrow penin-
sula on the banks of the Tay. It came into the
possession of the family of Perth, in 1360, when Sir
John Drummond, by marrying Lady Mary, the eldest
daughter and co-heiress of Sir William de Montifex,
justiciar of Scotland, and chief of a most ancient
family, obtained with her the lands of Cargill and
Stobhall, which then became promiscuously the de-
signation of the family. — Upon a romantic rock,
which rises perpendicularly over the Linn of Camp-
sie, are the ruins of an ancient religious house, said
to have been dependent on the abbey of Cupar : next
to the kings of Scotland, the Hays of Errol were the
principal benefactors to this monastery. The abbey
of Cupar was supplied with fuel from the wood of
Campsie ; and the road which the abbots and monks
made use of to convey it thither, is still called the
Abbey road. A considerable manufacture of linen
is carried on in this parish, and there are some bleach-
fields. There are three villages in the parish; one of
which, named Strelitz, in honour of her late majesty,
was erected in 1763, as a place of residence for the
discharged soldiery, at the conclusion of the German
war. Population, in 1801, 1,585; in 1831, 1,62S.
Houses 310. Assessed property in 1815, £7,620.
— This parish is in the presbytery of Dunkeld, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Stipend £224 16s. 9d.,
with a glebe of the value of £14. Unappropriated
teinds £4 16s. Gd. Patron, the Crown. There is
an extension church at the village of Burrelton
Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4|d., with about £15
fees. There are 3 private schools. This parish was
formerly called the West parish, and is said to have
been only a part of the parish of Cupar- Angus ; but
it was considered a distinct parochial district as far
back as 1514.
CARINGTON. See Carrington.
CARITY, a small river, ■which has its source in
the parish of Lintrathen, Forfarshire, and, after a
course of 5 miles, falls into the South Esk, at the
village of Invercaritv.
CARLETON HILL, a hill in the parish of Col-
monell, in Ayrshire, which rises with a steep ascent
to an elevation of about 520 feet* above the level of the
* The admeasurement p/iven in the O'd Statistical Account,
Qvol. ii. p. <;o.^ id l,55t feet ! The writer surely meant to say
ala feet, instead of us many yards. See our note D. tin.
CAR
208
CAR
«pa. It is situated so near the sea, at the bottom
ot a bay of the same name, that at full tide there is
little more than room for the traveller to pass with-
out danger.
CARLIN SKERRY, an insulated rock, in Ork-
ney, about 2i miles south of Pomona island, well-
known to seamen by the name of the Barrel of
Butter.
CARLINWARK. See Castle-Douglas.
CARLOPS, a pleasant village in the parish of
Linton in Peebles-shire ; 14 miles from Edinburgh,
on the road to Dumfries. It was founded in 1784;
and now contains a population of nearly 200, chiefly
cotton-spinners. The scenery of ' The Gentle Shep-
herd' is generally supposed to be in this vicinity.
In the neighbourhood, on the south side of the Esk,
is a lonely glen in which the covenanters are said
to have found a temporary refuge after the defeat at
Rullion-Green on the Pentlands, in November 1666.
On the north side of this glen are some precipitous
rocks — probably the " craggy beild " of Allan's drama
— from one of which, called the Harbour Craig, the
covenanting preachers are said to have addressed their
adherents. Farther up the glen, at a place called
the Howe, is a beautiful little linn, [See Haeeie's
Howe,] which seems to furnish lurtuer proof that
these are the very scenes
" tTiat taught the Doric muse
Her sweetest sonj,'.— the hills, the woods, the streams,
Where beauteous Pe»gy ctray'd, list'nillff the while
Her gentle shepherd's tender tale ol love."
James Forrest, the author of some pleasing poems
in the Scottish dialect, died at Carlops in 1818,
aged 43. He was a weaver by trade.
CARLUKE, a parish in the upper ward of the
county of Lanark; about 8 miles in length, from the
Clyde to its boundary on the north, and fully 4J
miles in breadth. It is bounded on the north by
Cambusnethan parish; on the east by Carnwath,
Carstairs, and Lanark ; on the south by the Clyde,
which separates it from Lesmahagow; and on the
west by Cambusnethan, from which it is separated
by Garrion gill. In the New Statistical Account
its superficies is estimated at 15,360 imperial acres,
of which nearly the whole are under cultivation.
The assessed property, in 1815, was £8,553. The
present rental is nearly £30,000, exclusive of the
mineral produce, which may amount to £20,000.
The surface rises to a considerable height on the
eastern border, where it terminates in a moorish
tract of land: it has in consequence a great declivity,
but almost the whole is arable. The soil, on the
banks of the Clyde, is light and fertile; farther up
it becomes a rich mellow clay excellently adapted
for trees and generally covered with woods and
orchards. In the more distant fields, the soil is in
general shallow, poor, and unproductive. The banks
of the Clyde, which are here low and sheltered, are
famous for fruit ; and in this parish, apples and pears
are produced in more abundance than perhaps in any
other district in Scotland. The orchards extend in
length 5 miles, and are supposed to comprehend
nearly 130 acres. In 1822 they produced £3,043;
in 1838, only £444. The principal proprietor is Sir
Norman Macdonald Lockhart of Lee and Carnwath,
Baronet. There are several little hills or laws, of
which the loftiest is Kilcadzow law, which has an
elevation of nearly 900 feet. Coal abounds every-
where: the strata are minutely described in the New
Statistical Account. Freestone, lime, and ironstone,
are also abundant ; and metallic calces, and calcareous
petrifactions, are sometimes met with. Mauldslie
castle, built in 1792-3, the elegant seat of the late
Earl of Hyndford, is situated near the village of
Carluke. Milton-Lockhart is a fine building in the
manorial style, very beautifully situated. Hallbar,
an ancient square tower in this parish, beautifully
situated in a romantic dell, in a deed dated 1685, is
called the ' Tower and Fortalice of Braidwood.' Ha'-
hill, or Haugh-hill — an elevated mound near Mauld-
slie castle — rises to the height of between 60 and 70
feet, and contains the remains of the last two Earls
of Hyndford. Various re.nains of antiquity have
been dug up in the neighbourhood. This parish gave
birth, in 1726, to Major-general Roy, whose abilities
as a mathematician and antiquarian are well-known.
Population, in 1801, 1,756; In 1831, 3,288. Houses
630. There are three villages in the parish: namely,
Braidwood, Kilcadzow, and Yieldshields This par-
ish— anciently called Kirk-Forest, probably from its
situation in Mauldslie forest — is in the presbytery of
Lanark, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Stipend
£231 19s. 6d., with a glebe valued at £30. Unap-
propriated teinds £429 16s. lid. Patron, Sir Nor-
man Macdonald Lockhart, Bart. Church built in
1799; sittings 1,000. The manse is beautifully
situated .Schoolmaster's salary £34, with about
£56 of fees. There are 6 unendowed schools. In
1814, Mr. Reid of Nelltield bequeathed £2,000 to
this parish, to be expended in annuities to 12 per-
sons in decayed circumstances. — Robert Forrest, the
self-taught sculptor, is a native of tins parish.
The burgh of Carluke, in the above parish, is
5 miles west of Lanark, on the road leading to
Glasgow, from which it is distant 18 miles. It
has increased rapidly since the introduction of the
cotton manufacture. The neighbouring scenery is
much admired. Population, in 1838, 2,366. Muni-
cipal constituency in 1839, 36. The Relief body
have a handsome church here, erected in 1833, and
seating 770; and there is also a church belonging to
the Associate synod, erected in 1797, and seating
470. The stipend of the Relief minister is £110;
of the Old Light or Associate synod minister £122,
with a house and garden. The Glasgow and Wishaw
railway might be easily prolonged to Carluke. There
are 2 fairs held here : on May 21st and October 31st.
CARMICHAEL, a parish about 6 miles in length,
and from 3 to 4 in breadth, situated on the banks of
the Clyde, in the upper ward of Lanarkshire ; bounded
on the north by Lanark and Pettinain ; on the east
by Carington ; on the south by Wiston ; and on the
west by Douglas and Lesmahagow. The superficial
area is about 11,500 acres, of which more than a
third part is arable. The value of assessed property
in this parish, in 1815, was £4,326; the real rental
is about £4,600. The surface is very unequal : there
are several hills of considerable height, covered for
the most part with short heath. The famous Tinto
is partly in this parish : see article Tinto. The soil
towards the Clyde is thin and gravelly, in the higher
parts it is clayey and wet. Coal and limestone, of ex-
cellent quality, are found here. The greater part ot
the parish rests on old red sandstone. The late Earl
of Hyndford, who was the chief proprietor, enclosed
and planted a great part of this parish. Upon his death,
in 1817, his estates here reverted to Sir John Car-
michael AnstrutherofElie, Baronet.. — The celebrated
John, 3d Earl of Hyndford, who was born in 1701, and
died in 1767, was a great benefactor to this parish. The
period of his lordship's pobtical life was during the
troublous days of Scotland, when the last of the ex-
iled house ol Stuart made an unsuccessful struggle
to regain the British throne, which convulsed the
kingdom for several years. Devotedly attached to
the house of Brunswick, the Earl was always high in
favour with hij Majesty, George II., by whom he
was appointed envoy-extraordinary to the court oi
Bussia, upon a special mission ; and upon the acces-
CAR
209
CAR
sion of George III., he was nominated Vice-admiral
of Scotland. Some idea may be formed of bis lord-
ship's assiduity, from the fact that, in the library in
Westraw, there are 23 manuscript volumes of his
political life, in his own hand- writing. Besides, dur-
ing the whole of his stay abroad, he kept up a regu-
lar correspondence with his factor at Carmichael,
in which he evinces an accurate knowledge of archi-
tecture, agriculture, and rural affairs in general. A
few years before his death, he granted leases of 57
years' duration, in order to improve his lands ; and
even at that early period — when the rudest agricul-
tural practices were transmitted from sire to son, and
the most slovenly habits, both in the field and in the
dairy, were in general use — -the Earl introduced clauses
into the new leases which have since been adopted as
the most approved mode of farming. The greater
part of the beautiful plantations which adorn the now I
deserted family-mansion of Carmichael house, and
which are excelled by none in Scotland, were reared i
from seeds which the ambassador selected when [
abroad, but particularly from Russia. His remains
rest in the family burying-ground in this parish — Car-
michael gave the title of Baron to the ancient and
noble family of Carmichael. James Carmichael, the
first Lord Carmichael, was created a Baronet by
Charles I. He was also, by that monarch, promoted
to he justice-clerk, deputy-treasurer, and one of the
judges in the court of session; and, in the time of
the civil war, having lent His Majesty considerable
sums of money, he was created Baron Carmichael,
in 1647. His grandson was created Earl of Hynd-
ford in 1701. Population, in 1801,832; in 1831,
956. Houses 183. — This parish is in the presby-
tery of Lanark, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr.
Stipend £225 2s. 7d., with a glebe of the value
of .£20. Patrons, Sir "W. C. Anstruther, Bart., and
Sir N. M'D. Lockhart, Bart. Church built in 1750;
sittings about 450. Schoolmaster's salary .£'32, with
about £30 fees. There is one private school.
CARMUNNOCK, or Cardian'xock, a parish in
the under ward of Lanarkshire, extending, from east
to west, about 4 miles in length, and 2J in breadth
from north to south. It is bounded on the north by
Cathcart; on the east by Cambuslang ; on the south
by Kilbride ; and on the west by Eaglesham and
Mearns. The greater part is elevated, and com-
mands an extensive prospect, particularly from the
summit of Cathkin braes, about 500 feet above sea-
level ; from which, in a clear day, Arthur's seat in
the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, Benledi in Perth-
shire, and the peaks of Arran, are all discernible.
The soil is partly a light mould, and partly a strong
deep clay, which, when properly drained aud manured,
produces excellent crops. Of the whole extent,
which is about 2,800 Scotch acres, nearly 2,400 are
enclosed and cultivated. The White Cart runs along
the western boundary. Its banks are here high, and
in most parts covered with wood, which, together
with its meanderings and the rapidity of its current,
renders the scenery very picturesque and romantic.
The road from Glasgow to Muirkirk passes through
the eastern part of this district. In many places
there are coal, ironstone, and limestone, none of
which, however, has been here wrought to any ex-
tent. There is also freestone. The village of Carmun-
nock has a population of about 400. It is 3| miles
distant from Rutherglen. The large village of Busby,
on the Cart, belongs partly, quoad sacra, to this parish.
See Mearns. Many tumuli, or sepulchral cairns, are
to be met with here, which, when opened, have always
been found to contain human bones and instruments
of war. On the estate of Castlemilk are the remains
of a Roman military road, near which have been
found various Roman antiquities. In the house of
Castlemilk — which is noted for its fine situation —
Mary Queen of Scots is said to have lodged the night
before the battle of Langside. Population, in 1801,
700; in 1831, 692. Houses 102. Assessed property,
in 1815, £6,002 This parish, formerly a vicarage,
is in the presbytery of Glasgow, and synod of Glas-
gow and Ayr. Stipend £152 17s. 6d., with a glebe
of the value of £19. Patron, Stirling of Castlemilk.
. — Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4|d., with about
£32 fees.
CARMYLE, a village in Old Monkland parish, in
Lanarkshire. It is noted for the beauty of its situa-
tion, having a fine southern exposure, watered by
the Clyde. This village originated in a muslin manu-
factory, erected about 1741, by a Glasgow merchant.
CARMYLIE, a parish in Forfarshire ; extending
in length about 4 miles, and about 3 in breadth;
bounded on the north by Kirkden and part of Dun-
nichen parish ; on the east by Inverkeilor, Arbirlot,
and St. Vigeans ; on the south by Arbirlot, Pan-
bride, and Moncrieff; and on the west by Monikie,
Guthrie, and Dunnichen. It is a hilly tract of coun-
try, in the range of the Sidlaws ; but the hills are
capable of cultivation to their summits. Almost the
whole district shows a cold wet soil, on a till or
gravelly bottom. There are several moors and
marshes. A part of Dilty-moss lies on the western
skirts of this parish. There are inexhaustible quar-
ries of grey slate and pavement stones, which have
been wrought for centuries, and supply the neigh-
bourhood, besides being exported to Perthshire, Fife,
Leith, London, Aberdeen, and Glasgow. These quar-
ries are the property of Lord Panmure. The stone lies
in level beds, which are about 18 inches in thickness,
and are found close to the surface. The principal
mansion-house is that of Guynd. The small river
Elliot, or Elot, or its head-stream the Black burn,
which takes its rise in the east end of Dilty moss,
runs through the parish from north-west to south-
east. See Arbirlot. Population, in 1801, 892;
in 1S31, 1,153. Houses 247. Assessed property, in
1815, £2,226. Rental, in 1808, £2,074. This par-
ish, erected in 1609, is in the presbytery of Arbroath,
and synod of Angus and Mearns. Stipend £151 8s;
3d., with glebe valued at £30. Patron, the Crown.
— Schoolmaster's salary £34, with about £20 fees.
There is a private school.
CARNACH, a quoad sacra parish, in the shire of
Ross, disjoined from the parishes of Contin, Fod-
derty, and TJrray, by authority of the General As-
sembly. Its greatest length is 17 miles, and greatest
breadth 10 ; but the inhabited part of the parish is
a narrow valley about 14 miles long by one-sixth of
a mile broad. Li 1830, the population was 1,056;
in 1836, only 711, — a decrease attributed to the in-
troduction of sheep-farming. The population is
composed of small tenants of from £5 to £10 a-year,
and shepherds. Church built in 1830, chiefly at the
expense of Government ; sittings 320. Stipend
£120, with a mause and glebe, and grass for two
cows and a horse.
CARXBEE, a parish in Fifcshire; bounded by
Cameron on the north ; by Denino, Crail, and Kil-
renny on the east ; by Anstruther, Pittenweem, and
St. Monance on the south ; and by Kilconquhar on
the west. It is about 4 miles in extent from north
to south, and the same from east to west. A ridge of
hills runs east and west through the middle of the par-
ish, which, in different places, rises into fine green hills
of a conical outline, one of which, Kellie Law, rises
to the height of 810 feet above sea-level, and com-
mands a line view. On the south side of these high
groujids, all the way down to the coast of the frith
of Forth, is an extent of rich fertile soil; north of
the hills the ground is much more adapted for pa«-
O
CAR
210
CAR
ture, though, in dry seasons, even there the crops '
are abundant. Nearly two-thirds are subdivided and
enclosed. Kelliecastle, formerly the seat of the Earl
of Kellie, now belonging to the Earl of Mar, was
a large building, with stately apartments, and plea-
sure-grounds laid out with great taste, but is now
used as a farm-house. Balcaskie, the seat of Sir R.
A. Anstruther, Bart., is a fine old building. Pit-
corthie, the seat of James Simpson, Esq., is a mag-
nificent modern house. There are some excellent
lime and freestone quarries, and coal is extensively
wrought. Population, in 1801, 1,083; in 1831, 1,379.
Houses, in 1831, 233. Assessed property, in 1815,
£11,592. — This parish is in the presbytery of St.
Andrews, and synod of Fife. Patron, Sir R. A.
Anstruther, Baronet. Stipend £23S 17s. 8d., with
a glebe of the value of .£30. Unappropriated teinds
.£236 13s. Sd Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4id.,
with about £25 fees. There is one private school
in the parish.
CARNIBURG, on CAIRNBURG (Greater
and Lesser), two of the Treshinish isles, lying west
of Mull. There are some remains of a fort on Cairn-
burg More, said to have been constructed by a party
of Macleans, who here held out for some time against
a detachment of Cromwell's forces.
CARN-NA-CUIMHNE. See Braemar.
CARN-NAN-GOUR. See Blair-Atbole.
CARNOCK, a parish in the western extremity of
the county of Fife ; in the Dunfermline district. It
is bounded by Saline on the north ; Dunfermline on
the east; Torryburn on the south; and Torryburn
and part of Perthshire on the west. Superficial area
2,160 acres. The surface is level towards the east,
but has a gentle declivity. towards the south and west,
and rises on the north snd north-east into the hills
of Craigluscar. The soil is partly a black loam, and
partly clay or till, having in several places a mixture
of gravel. The rivulets, of Carnock and Pitdennies
have their banks covered with plantations of fir,
larix, and ash ; and present very pleasing scenery in
several parts, particularly at Luscar-den near Car-
nock. The principal villages are Carnock and Cair-
neyhill, both pleasantly situated, the former upon
the Carnock, the latter about 2 miles to the south,
upon the road leading from Dunfermline to Stirling.
The population of Carnock village, in 1837, was 178.
There are several excellent coal-mines in this dis-
trict; ironstone, and freestone are also found. From
the Ink-craig of Carnock there continually drops a
fluid resembling ink, which was analyzed by Dr.
Black, and found to contain coal, silex, and pure
clay. John Erskine, of Carnock, professor of Scots
law in the University of Edinburgh, and author of
the well-known Vade mecum of young lawyers, the
' Institutes of the Law of Scotland,' was born in
Newbigging house, in this parish. The famous Tho-
mas Gillespie, the father of the Relief body in Scot-
land, was minister of this parish, but was deposed
by the General Assembly in 1752, for refusing to
preside at the induction of a minister who was ob-
noxious to the people. Population, in 1801, 8G0; in
1831, 1,202. Houses, in 1831, 226. Assessed pro-
perty, in 1815, £3,226 This parish is in the pres-
bytery of Dunfermline and synod of Fife. Stipend
£155 7s. 7d., with a glebe of the value of £24.
Patron, Erskine of Carnock. There is a Secession
congregation at Cairneyhill : which see. The old
parish-church at Carnock was built in 1602. It is
a very small building, seating only 240; but it is in-
teresting as the church in which Row the his-
torian, son of the Reformer, ministered. His tomb,
with a Latin inscription and a Hebrew title, adjoins.
It is interesting also as the church in which, at
an after-day, Sir. Hog, and Mr. Gillespie, whose
deposition — as already noticed — was the origin of the
Relief, both successively laboured. A handsomu
new church, in the Saxon style, has recently been
built. — Salary of schoolmaster £34 4s. 4Ad., with
about £16 fees. There are 3 private schools in the
parish, one of them a boarding-school for girls.
CARNOUSTIE, a village in the parish of Barrie,
in Forfarshire. It is at the east end of the parish,
about li mile from the kirk-town. Population, in
1835, 1,200. There is an extension church here;
an original Secession church, and a United Secession
church. See article Barrie.
CARNWATH, an extensive parish in the upper
ward of the county of Lanark, forming an oblong
square, measuring 12 miles long from north to south,
and 8 in breadth. It is bounded by V.rest Calder on
the north ; by Dunsyre on the east ; by Pettinain
and Libberton on the south ; and by Carstairs on the
west. The Clyde flows along its southern boundary ;
and when highly flooded is here forded by a float run-
ning upon a chain. Superficial area 25, 193 Scots acres,
of which one-half is uncultivated. The assessed
property, in 1815, was £10,384; the rental, in 1822,
£14,000. The soil is very various in different parts
of the parish; the holms or meadows on the Clyde
being of a deep clay, while on the Medwins it is in-
clined to sand. There is a great extent of moor
land, of which the soil is a cold stiff clay mixed with
moss. The general elevation of the parish is 600
feet above sea-level ; but it rises in some parts to
1,200 feet.* The north and the south Medwin, and
the Dippool, tributaries of the Clyde in this parish,
contain trout and pike. There is a small lake, called
the White loch, about a mile west from the village
of Carnwath, near a mile in circuit, containing perch,
and well-known to curlers as the frequent scene of
their manly and invigorating pastime. Two brothers
of the name of Wilson, merchants in London, in 1 779,
erected an extensive iron-foundry here, and built a
village called Wilsonton — now containing a popula-
tion of about 400 — for the accommodation of the
workmen and their families. These works were
peculiarly happy in their situation, as ironstone,
coal, limestone, and clay, are found in the greatest
abundance in the immediate neighbourhood ; but
the failure of their projectors, in 1812, was a severe
blow to the prosperity of the district. In 1821, the
works were purchased by Mr. Dickson of the Cal-
der iron-works. The other villages are Carnwath,
Forth, with a population of about 300, Newbigging
with about 200, and Braehead with about 120 — The
ruins of the ancient castle of CowthaUy, or Cow-
* The following table is curious, and will interest not a few
of our agricultural readers :—
Harvest commenced for each
of these years on the suing
faun as follows :
September 12th;
September 16tii,
August Ifit'il,
September 26th,
September 1st,
August 24th,
September 16th,
August 31st,
September 11th,
September 5th,
September (5'b,
September 7lh,
August 22d.
September 13th,
September I2t'h,
S-pleinber 10ib,
September 25th,
September 4th,
' September tit h ,
September 12th,
September 14tli,
Sep^inber 22d.
Seed-time commenced on the
north banks of the Clyde, at
Carrru
ilh, at the [vlloiniig
dates, /or. £1 years :
1796,
March 1st,
11797,
February 27th,
17118,
March SBth,
raw.
March 13th,
1800,
March 21st,
1801,
March 9th,
1802,
March 17th,
1S03,
March 22d,
1804.,
March 12th,
1805,
March 19th,
1800,
March 24th,
1S07,
March 2filh,
1803,
March 7th,
1809,
March 9th,
1810,
March 27th,
1SI1,
March 18th,
181-',
April Sd,
1813,
Man* 18th,
1-11,
March 28th,
1815,
March 21st,
1816,
March Mill,
1817,
March istli.
CAR
211
CAR
dailly, a seat of the noble family of Soraerville, about
a mile to the north-west of Carnwath, on the edge
of the moor, show it to have been of great extent
and strength.* The Somervilles settled here about
the middle of the 12th century. Sir John Somer-
ville of Carnwath and Linton was the steady ad-
herent of The Bruce. In 1603, the family of Mar
purchased the barony of Carnwath, but sold it in
1634 to Robert Lord Dalziel, created Earl of Carn-
wath in 1639. The title was attainted in 1715, but
restored, in 1826, in the person of General Dalziel.
Population of the parish, in 1601 , 2,680 ; in 1831 ,3,505.
Houses 707. — The village of Carnwath is 25 miles
south-west of Edinburgh, 6 east of Lanark, and 7 north-
westof Biggar. It consists chiefly of one street, nearly
balf-a-mile in length, in which a number of new houses
have been built within these few years, and to which
a parallel street has been added. Population, in
1831, about 800, chiefly weavers. The high road
from Edinburgh to Lanark passes through it. Five
fairs are held in this village annually. On the day
after the lamb fair in August there is a foot-race run
for a pair of red hose, given by the Lockhart family,
and a variety of games are practised This parish is
in the presbytery of Lanark, and synod of Glasgow
and Ayr. Stipend £250 7s. 6d., with glebe of the
value of £20. Uappropriated teinds £140 17s.
8d. Patron, Sir Norman MacDonald Lockhart,
Baronet. Church built in 1798, repaired in 1833;
sittings 1,021. It is built contiguous to a part of the
ancient church which was founded in 1424, and was,
previous to the Reformation, a provostry with six
prebendaries. The aisle of the old building has
been successively the burying-place of the Sommer-
villes, the Dalziels, and the Lockharts. — There is a
United Secession congregation at Braehead. Church
built in 1798; sittings 500. Stipend £70, with
manse and glebe.- — There is another Secession church
at Carnwath ; and a chapel in connexion with the
Establishment at "Wilsonton.. — Parochial schoolmas-
ter's salary £34 4s. 4Jd., with about £34 fees.
Pupils 100. There were 8 private schools in 183-1.
CARR ROCK (The), the outer extremity of a
reef of sunken rocks, which extend, in an almost
continuous ridge, for about a mile and three quarters
from Fifeness, on the northern side of the entrance
of the frith of Forth. It is in lat. 56° 17', and
long. 2° 35' west of London ; bearing by compass
S. W. by Wr from the Bell-rock, distant 11 miles;
and from the Isle of May lighthouse N. N. E.
4 E. distant 6 miles. From a calculation made in
1809, it appeared that, from 1802 to vhat period, no
fewer than 16 vessels had been lost or stranded on
this dangerous reef, which forms a turning-point in
the course of all northern bound ships to or from the
frith of Forth. An old fisherman, who had been resi-
dent at Fifeness for above sixty years, stated that
there had been, within his recollection, at least 60
vessels lost upon the Carr : " For, if she missed her
mark one year, she was sure to hit twice the year
following." Under these circumstances, the com-
missioners of the northern lighthouses were induced
to erect a beacon of masonry on this rock. The
rearing of this was a business of great difficulty,
from the smallness of the foundation afforded by the
rock, and the agitation of the waves on all halt-tide
rocks, The length of the beacon rock, from south
• In ' The Memorie of the Somervilles' — a curious book, pub-
lished in 1816 from the original MS. which was written by James
Somerville, who died in 1P90, and who is styled in the title-
page, James Eleventh Lord Somerville — many curious notices
are given of the royal visits to Cowthally ; and especially of
tile flirtatious of Jarue.s V. with "Mistress Katherine Car.
miehaell, the captain of Craw luird's daughter, a young lady
much about sexleinth years of age, arimired for her beautie,
handsomeness of personc, and vivacity of spirit."
to north, is only 72 feet; but its greatest breadth,
at low water of spring-tides, is only 23 feet ; and it
was found impracticable to obtain a base for a founda-
tion-course of greater diameter than 18 feet; whence
the impossibility of erecting any building of sufficient
height to be above the reach of very weighty seas,
which would at once be fatal to the effect and ap-
paratus of a lighthouse. From the necessity of hav-
ing to cut down the rock under tide-mark, a move-
able cofferdam had to be used, out of which the
water was pumped every tide. The building of the
base of masonry alone occupied three years, so difficult
was the undertaking : the operation being conducted
only in good weather, and at the return Of spring-
tides. A year's work in such circumstances did not
exceed 130 hours' working. It was eventually com-
pleted in 1818, after six years' labour. The lower
part is a circular building of masonry, 18. feet in
diameter, from the top of which spring six pillars of
cast-iron, terminating in a point, with, a hollow ball
of that metal, which measures 3 feet across, and is
elevated 25 feet above the medium level of the sea.
The works cost altogether about £5,O0O.
CARRICK, the southern district of Ayrshire. It
is bounded on the north by Kyle, or Ayr proper ; on
the east by Dumfries-shire and the stewartry of
Kirkcudbright; on the south by Wigton ; and on the
west by the Atlantic ocean. It comprehends the
parishes of Ballantrae, Barr, Colmonell, Dailly, Gir-
van, Kirkmichael, Kirkoswald, Maybole, and Straiton.
Its extent is about 32 miles in length, by 20 in breadth ;
its superficial area may be estimated in round num-
bers at 300,000 acres. Population, in 1831, 25,533.
Inhabited houses 3,845. Its surface is hilly ; and the
name may have originated in the Gaelic carraig, 'a
rock.' The mountains, especially on the north-west,
seem to be a continuation of that great ridge which,
extending from the confines of England, through the
counties of Selkirk, Peebles, Lanark, and Dumfries,
meets the Western ocean between the districts of
Carrick and Kyle. In the valleys between the hills,
and along the sea-shore, are many stripes of level
ground of a fine clay or loamy soil. The chief rivers
are the Girvan and the Stinchar ; the Doon forms its
eastern boundary. There are several lakes, and a
great part of the country is still covered with natu-
ral wood Our old historian, Boece, with his usual
fertility of imagination, has discovered, in this dis-
trict, a large city totally unknown to every other
historian. Bellenden thus abridges his account of it :
" In Carrick wes sum'time ane ricke ciete vnder the
same name, quhais ruynus wallis schawis the gret
magnificence thairof." Boece calls this city Caret-
tonium ; but acknowledges his hesitation whether
this was the origin of the name Carrick or not.
In a manuscript quoted by Dr. Jamieson, we have
the following curious statement :■ — " No monu-
ments of batells to be seen in this countrey, ex-
cept nerr the villidge of ancient Turneburrey,
alonge the coste, betwixt a litell promontorey
and the sea. Ther is 3 werey grate heapes of
stonnes, callid wulgarley the Kernes of Blacliiimey,
being the name of the village and ground. At the
suthermost of thir 3 Cairnes ar ther 13 gret tale
[tall] stonnes, standing vpright in a perfyte circkle,
aboute some 3 ells ane distaunt from ane other, with
a grate heighe stonne in the midle, wick {sic) is
werily esteemid be the most learned inhabitants to
be the bvriall place of King Caractacus ; being most
probable, in so far as Hector Boetius sayes, that the
king wes interrid in Carricke, quherein he remained
during the most pairt of his rainge [reign] ; and that
from him this countrey wes named Carricke ; and
that thir stonnes, his monument, are as yet standing
nerr the toune of Turnberrey, wich wes questionles
CAR
212
CAR
the ancient Carrictonium. This same conjecture is so
muche the more probable in that, that King Galdus,
that succeedit him, (I meane Carractake,) his buriall
place is yet khawin, within 3 mylles to the tonne of
Yigtoune, in Galloway, which is after the same forme,
being 19 stonnes in compas, and 3 in the midle,
wich then hes beine the most honorable forme of
buriall, befo'r churches and church yairds were
designed places of sepulture. Ther is found and
obserued this yeir 1632, within a myle to the castle
of Turnburrey, somesandey landes, newly diseouered,
wich formerly had beine ouerblouen. Yet the new
(liscouery reaches, in the ancient ground, dounwards
above ane elle and a halffe, as the ther standinge
knowes cleirly demonstrate, exposing to the beholders
numbers of coffins neatly hewin of five stonnes, with
oute couer or bottome, beinge 7. foote longe, and 3.
vyde, all laying east and weste, with an equall propor-
tione of distance ane from ane vther." Carrick fell into
the hands of the father of Robert Bruce, by his mar-
riage with Margaret, Countess of Carrick, daughter of
Neill, the Earl of Carrick. See article Tprnberry.
King Robert granted the earldom to his brother Da-
vid. It afterwards reverted to the Crown ; and the
title is still retained in the royal family, the Prince
of Wales, as prince and steward of Scotland, being
born Earl of Carrick. John Steward is not only de-
signed ' Comes de Carryk,' but the first-born of
King Robert II. This can be no other than that
prince who, on his accesion, changed his name to
Robert, and thence obtained the ludicrous soubriquet
of John Fairnyear, i. e. ' John of the last year,'
or 'formerly John.' David, the first-born of this
King Robert, is designed 'Comes de Carrie,' a.d.
1397, when, with some others, nominated for settling
disputes about the marches with Richard, " our ad-
versary of England." This was that unfortunate
prince who was afterwards starved to death by his
inhuman uncle, who is named, in the same deed, as
one of his associates, under the designation of ' Ro-
bertas Comes de Fyf, Frere du Roy.' The "lands
and barony of Turneberrie" are mentioned as part of
the hereditary property of the Earl of Cassillis, A. r.
1616. The Duke of Argyle is hereditary keeper of
the palace of Carrick, as well as of those of Dun-
staffnage and Dunoon. It may be viewed as a ves-
tige of the ancient honours of this palace, although
now in ruins, that one of the pursuivants (siyniferi)
employed in making royal proclamations, and in sum-
moning those accused of treason, bears the name of
Carrick. Among the original Melrose charters are
several of the old earls of Carrick. Their seals bear
a winged griffin, but no armorial charge. There is
an interesting one, by ' Margeria, Comitissa de Kar-
rick,' and her husband, 'R. de Brus, Comes de
Karrick.' Both seals are entire, and identical, — only
the countess's is a great deal larger than her lord's.
This Brace's father, the competitor, bore the arms of
Annandale, a saltier, with a chief, plain. Marjory
and her husband bear the saltier and chief; but the
latter charged with what might perhaps be consi-
dered as the Carrick griffin, though its wings are
rather scanty, — and it is very like a lion passant.
CARRICK CASTLE. See Loch-Goil.
CARRICK PALACE. See Thrnberry.
CARRIDEN, a parish in the county of Linlith-
gow, bounded by the frith of Forth on the north ; by
Abercorn parish on the east; Linlithgow on the
south ; and Borrowstounness on the west. It is
about 2} miles in length, and 1J in breadth. The
soil is light and early, producing plentiful crops, and
the whole surface is arable and enclosed. There are
four villages in the parish : viz., Grangepans, Carri-
den, Brigness or Bridgeness, and Blackness, the two
la^t of which have tolerable harbours. There is
plenty ot excellent freestone, and the whole parish
lies on coal of the best quality. A considerable
manufacture of salt used to be carried on here. Col-
onel James Gardiner, who was killed at the battle of
Prestonpans, in 1745, was a native of this parish.
Population, in 1801, 1,493; in 1831, 1,261. Houses
184. Assessed property, in 1815, .£4,430 This
parish is in the presbytery of Linlithgow, and synod
of Lothian and Tweeddaie. Stipend £249 17s. with
glebe of the value of £25, and a vicarage teind of
48 threaves of straw. Unappropriated teinds £137
17s. 5d. Patron, the Duke of Hamilton School-
master's salary £34 5s. There are 3 private schools.
The wall of Antoninus is supposed to have had its
termination in this parish. See article Blackness.
Several years ago, when digging stones to build a
park-wall, a number of axes, pots, and vases, evi-
dently of Roman workmanship, were discovered at a
place called Walltoun, and sent to the Advocates'
library in Edinburgh. In the reign of William the
Lion, Carriden was the property of William de Ve-
tereponte, with baronial rights. David II. conveyed
this barony to Alexander de Cockburn ; because
John de Vetereponte had alienated his rights, with-
out the King's license first obtained.
CARRLNGTON, a parish in the shire of Edin-
burgh, about 3J miles in length, measured from
north-east to south-west, by about 2 in breadth.
It is bounded by the parishes of Lasswade and Cock-
pen on the north ; by Borthwick parish on the east ;
by Temple and Pennicuik on the south ; and by
Lasswade on the west. The South Esk separates
it from Temple and Borthwick parishes. The dis-
trict is hilly, and the soil generally moorish. The
village of Carrington, or Primrose, is about 10 miles
south-east of Edinburgh. The Earl cf Roseberry
has a seat near this village ; and a splendid mansion
is now erecting by R. W. B. Ramsay, Esq., at
Whitehall in this parish. Population, in 1801, 409;
in 1831, 561. Houses, in 1831, 107. Assessed pro-
perty £4,474. — This parish is in the presbytery of
Dalkeith, and synod of Lothian and Tweeddaie.
Stipend £158 7s. 5d., with glebe valued at £15.
Patron, the Earl of Roseberry Schoolmaster's sa-
lary £34 4s. 4M. with about £10 fees.
CARRON, a village in the parish of Larbert,
Stirlingshire ; on the northern bank of the Carron,
about 3 miles from its entrance into the Forth, and
2 miles nortli of the town of Falkirk. It is cele-
brated as the most extensive iron-foundry in Europe;
though, of late years, a greater quantity of pig-iron
has been manufactured at some other works. These
works employ about 2,000 workmen. There are 5
blast or smelting furnaces, 4 cupola-furnaces, and 20
air-furnaces; with mills for grinding fire-clay, boring
cylinders, and grinding and polishing cast metal ; and
besides the machinery which is driven by water, there
is a steam-engine of 90 horses power, which is used
entirely in the production of blast. All kinds of
cast-iron goods are manufactured here; not only in-
struments of war, such as cannon, mortars and
carronades, shot and shells, but implements of agri-
culture, of the arts, and for domestic use, pipes,
boilers, ovens, vats, pots, grates, and smith and ma-
chinery of all kinds. To a stranger, the approach
to the works is very curious and striking, especially
if made under the shade of night. The perpetual il-
lumination of the atmosphere, — the roaring of the
immense bellows, — the rushing of water, — and the
noise of the weighty hammers striking upon resound-
ing anvils, — suggest to the imagination the idea of
Vulcan and his Cyclops occupied in preparing thun-
der-bolts. Two kinds of ore are employed in these
works together, in regular proportions. The first is
a species of decomposed haematites brought .'rom
CAR
•2iy
CAR
Cumberland, which stains the hand of a blood-red
colour ; the second is the common argillaceous iron-
stone, of a yellowish brown colour, and of a rocky
hardness. From the proper proportions of these
ores, an iron is procured, equal, if not superior, to
the sable iron imported from Russia. The Carron-
works were first projected by Dr. Roebuck of Shef-
field, in 1760; are carried on by a chartered com-
pany, with a capital of .£150,000 sterling, divided
into 600 shares, which are now in a few hands. The
company hold and work for themselves extensive
mines of iron, coal, and lime, besides possessing an
immense stock of all materials requisite for carrying
on the establishment. There are two large collieries
immediately adjoining the works. The company
have about 20 vessels for exporting their manufac-
tures to London, and other ports, and for conveying
ironstone and limestone to their works.
tARROX (The), a small but remarkable rivei in
Stirlingshire. It rises in or near the Carron bog, and
falls into the Forth at Grangemouth, about 3 miles
north-east of Falkirk, after a course of 14- miles. The
Carron bog is a meadow of about 360 acres, partly
in the parishes of St. Ninfan and Kilsyth, but chiefly
in Fintry. Its length is about 3 miles, and medium
breadth 400 yards. Considerably elevated above the
ocean, it occupies part of the table-land between the
east and west coasts. The Carron, passing through
the eastern end, flows into the frith of Forth; while
a stream tributary to the Endrick, issuing from the
west, has its waters conveyed by the last-mentioned
river to Lochlomond, which discharges itself into
the frith of Clyde. The bog has, probably, been a
lake at no very distant period, and gradually filled by
the brooks washing down earth from the hills. Part,
indeed, is a swamp, hardly passable in summer; and
the whole is nearly inundated by every heavy rain.
[See article Fintry.] The Carron, after it leaves its
source, flows for one-half of its course amongst bleak
hills and rocks. After emerging from the Carron bog,
it rushes over the Auchinlilly linn spout. From this
it continues its course eastward, giving motion to
several paper-mills above Denny, and watering some
large printfields below it, and then winding through
" the bonny banks of Carron water," long since
famed in song, it. passes near the hill of Dunipace,
and the site of the ancient Roman structure called
Arthur's Oven: see article Arthur. At Larbert a
dam is built across the river, which, with the lead,
supphes the great reservoir at th?% Carron works;
into this reservoir almost the whole water of the
river goes in summer. The Carron is a small stream,
yet there is no river in Scotland, and few in Britain,
whose banks have been the scene of so many mem-
orable transactions. 'When the Roman empire was
in its glory, this river — according to some antiquaries
i — formed the boundary of its conquests in Britain;
for the wall of Antoninus runs parallel to it for
several miles. Hence Buchanan in his ' Epithala-
" Gentesque alias cum pelleret arrois
Sedibus, ant virtus vilem servaret in usum
S-rvitii, hie content* suos defendere fines
Roma securigeris pra?tendit maenia Seotis :
Hie, spe progressus posita, Carronis ad undam,
Terniiuus Ausouii eiguat divortia regni."
Nennius derives the name of this river from Carau-
sius, who is commonly styled the usurper. The
translator of Ossian's poems informs us, that it is
of Gaelic origin, and that Caraon signifies ' the Wind-
ing river.' This fully expresses one quality of its
stream, which, in former times, before it had forced
a new channel to itself in some places, and been
straightened by human industry in others, fetched
many serpentine sweeps in its passage through the
carses. Nevertheless, if we say that the original
name was Caeravon, that is, ' the River upon the
Caers, or Castles,' alluding to the Roman fortifi-
cations upon its banks, we shall perhaps give an
etymology just as probable, though equally uncertain.
Historians notice a bloody battle fought near this
river between the Romans and the confederate army
of the Scots and Picts, about the beginning of the
5th century. About half-a-mile from the river, and
the same distance from Falkirk, bes the field where
a battle was fought between Sir William Wallace
and the Engbsh, under Edward I., in 1208. Not
far distant from the same spot, the second battle of
Falkirk was fought in 1745, betwixt Prince Charles
Ed ward and the troops of tie family of Hanover, in
which the latter were defeated. [See Falkirk.]
The Carron is famed in ancient Celtic song. Dyer
alludes to this circumstance in the following lines :
" Where is the king of songs ? He sleeps in death ;
No more around him press the warrior-throng;
He rolls no more the death-denouncing song ;
Calmed is the storm of war, and hushed the poet's breath.
Yes! Anderson, he sleeps ; but Carron's stream
Still seems responsive to his awful lyre."
Hector Macneil, a native poet of Stirlingshire, has
thus expressed himself in the Doric strain :
" Round Carun's stream, O classic name!
Whar Fingal fought, and ay ow'rcnme ;
Whtir Ossian wak'd, wi' kindling flame,
His heaven-taught lays,
And sang his Oscar's deathless fame
At Duin-ua-bais."
The river Carron, though it has ceased to roll it3
stream amidst the din of arms, yet preserves its fame
by lending its aid to trade and manufactures. [See
Carron.] The great canal enters from the Forth
at this river, which is navigable for a few miles near
its mouth During the heavy rains in September
1839, the Carron suddenly rose 12 feet above its
usual level ; and scaling its shelving banks, converted
into a watery plain the circumjacent pasturage. At
Dorrator, the Carron is bounded by eminences on its
eastern bank, which it is impossible to overtop ; but
taking here a circling course, a great expanse lying
between, made a double stream ; a rising ground in
the distance curving with the river on the same side,
obstructed the gush, and joining with the waters on
the opposite side, formed a beautiful bay.
CARRON (The), a fine rivulet in Nithsdale. It
rises at the foot of the Lowther hills, and, after a
course of about 9 miles through the parish of Duris-
deer, falls into the Nith at Carronfoot, near Carron-
bridge, on the road from Thornhill to Sanquhar.
CARRON (The), a small river in Ross-shire,
which flows in a south-west direction through a chain
of small lakes, and falls into Loch-Carron. It used
to abound with salmon ; but they are now scarce in
it. See article Loch-Carron.
CARRON (The), a rivulet in Kincardineshire,
which rises in Glenbervie, and falls into the sea at
the town of Stonehaven, forming a fine natural har-
bour.
CARRONSHORE, a village lying partly in the
parish of Larbert, and partly in that of Bothkennar,
2 miles below Carron-works. Here the Carron com-
pany had wharfs, and a dry dock for repairing their
vessels: but Grangemouth is now the company's
port. There is a sthool here for the benefit of the
children of the workmen at Carron.
CARRUTHERS. See Middlebie,
CARSE OF FALKIRK (The), a tract of land
lying along the south shore of the frith of Forth,
from Bo'-ness westwards as far as Airth. It is wa-
tered by the Carron, and comprehends a great part
of the parishes of Polmont, Falkirk, and Bothkennar.
CAR
214
CAR
and is mostly a fine rich clay soil, producing abun-
dant crops. See Stirlingshire.
CARSE OF GOWRIE (The), a district of
Perthshire, extending 15 miles in length, and from
2 to 4 in breadth, between the north bank of the
Tayy and the foot of the Sidlaw hills. This tract of
land, which is a rich plain, cultivated like a garden,
seems to have been at one period covered with wa-
ter,- nay, in the remembrance of several people still
alive, many parts were a morass which at this day
are extensive fields of arable ground. The Tay is
supposed to have formed a circuit round the carse,
washing the foot of the Sidlaw hills, and entering its
present channel at Invergowrie. Staples for holding
cables have been found at the foot of the Sidlaw hills,
to' the north of the flat land ; and the parish of St.
Madois, now in the carse of Gowrie, is said to have
been once on the southern side of the river. Such
parts of the carse as are : called inches, are elevated
above the flat ground which has been covered with
water, The soil of these eminences is very different
from that of the low ground; that of the former be-
ing a red till, approaching to the nature of loam ;
while that of the latter, like all land which has been
immersed under water, is a blue clay of a very rich
quality. Previous to 1760, the carse was disfigured
with many large pools of water ; but these have been
all drained. Lying on the banks of the Tay, the
carse of Gowrie possesses a few tolerable harbours,
the chief of which is at Errol, nearly in the centre of
the district.
■ CARSE OF STIRLING (The), that tract of
low ground, extending from the moss of Kincardine
to the mouth of the Devon, on both sides of the
Forth ; or' as viewed by some, from Buckly vie, along
the banks of the Forth, to the eastern extremity of
Stirlingshire,— a tract about 28 miles in length, by 2
in -average breadth, and comprehending 80,000 acres.
The soil is everywhere a fine clay, and reaches to a
depth of 30 feet in some places. The highest eleva-
tion of the surface is about 25 feet above high water.
"If," says Dr. Graham, " all the carse lands, which
skirt the Forth on both sides, be taken into the ac-
count, it may be computed at the average length of
34 miles, by 6 in breadth ; amounting to 204 square
miles, or 103,800 Scots acres nearly, and unquestion-
ably constituting the richest and most important dis-
trict of Scotland, in an agricultural point of view.
This soil is evidently alluvial ; and the substances
which are found in it, as well as the aspect of the
higher grounds by which it is bounded, indicate that,
at some former period, it was covered by the sea.
The soil itself consists of the finest particles of earth,
without the smallest stone or pebble except what
may have been accidentally carried thither. The soil
of the best quality, when first taken up from its bed,
is of a bluish colour, and of a soapy or mucilaginous
consistence. That which has been long exposed to
the sun, and to the elements, by cultivation, assumes
a darker hue, or hazle colour ; and, in point of fria-
bility, approaches to the character of loam. Beds
of shells, particularly oysters, and others which are
usually found in the frith, occur from time to time,
from a few inches to four feet in thickness. Through-
out the whole of these carses, patches of till occur,
especially in the district to the westward ot Stirling.
Indeed, as we ascend the Forth towards the west,
this soil becomes gradually of inferior quality. These
carses are elevated from 1 2 to 20 or 25 feet above the
level o: ''.he sea at high- water. At the same time it
is evident that this soil is alluvial, there seems to be
room to question whether this deep and extensive
tract of clay, stretching along both sides of the Forth,
is to be attributed solely to the deposit of that river
through the course of ages. The cause appears to
be altogether inadequate to such a prodigious effect.
The Clyde, which runs through a course at least as
long, and carries an equal body of water to the sea,
has formed no alluvial land at its embouchure ; and
it will probably be found that no river that runs
westward has, by its alluvion, formed any consider-
able deposit of soil. The quantity of earthy particles
that are carried down by rivers and streams from the
mountains is much less than has been generally ima-
gined. It would seem, that at some distant period,
the waters of the German ocean had regurgitated to
the westward, and covered, for a considerable time,
those plains, depositing there the rich particles of
soil with which they were, in consequence of some
revolution of nature, copiously impregnated. If any
stress could be laid on the universal tradition of the
country, it would lead to the belief that this whole
plain, as far west as Gartmore, was formerly covered
bv the sea." [' View of the Agriculture of Stirling.'
Edin. 1812. 8vo. pp. 33—35.]
CARSPHAIRN, or Carsefern, a large parish
in the stewartry of Kirkcudbright ; bounded on the
north by Ayrshire ; on the east by Dairy ; on the
south by Dairy and Kells ; and on the west by Ayr-
shire, from which it is in part separated by Loch
Doon : which see. Measured from the Gallowrigg,
on the north-east, to the head streams of Dee water
on the south-west, it is upwards of 20 miles in ex-
tent; and its average breadth is about 10 miles.
The Deugh water intersects it from north-west to
south-east, and after receiving numerous tributaries,
joins the Ken — which separates Carsphairn from
Dairy — at the south-east extremity of the parish.
The surface is mountainous, with the exception of
a small plain towards the centre, on which the church
is situated, and a few spots on the sides of the rivu-
lets.' The hills are in general green, interspersed
with moss. Formerly there were extensive forests
of natural wood, and iron mines are said to have
been wrought in this district. About two years
ago, the Hon. Colonel Macadam Cathcart began to
work a lead-mine at AVoodhead or C'raigengillan, in
this parish. The daily produce, at an early stage of
the workings, was estimated at 30 bars of fused lead,
each bar weighing 10 stones. The ores are said to
contain a considerable admixture of silver. Many of
the springs contain iron dissolved by means of car-
bonic acid, and are esteemed for their tonic quality.
Population, in 1801, 496; in 1831, 542. Houses
89. Assessed property in 1815, ±'4,201 This par-
ish is in the presbytery of Kirkcudbright, and synod
of Galloway. Stipend ±182 10s., with glebe of the
value of £27. Unappropriated teinds ±94 7s. 7d.
The sum of ±9 19s. Cd. of the Crown lands of this
parish is paid to the minister of Kells, out of which
parish Carsphairn was formed. Patrons, the Crown,
and Forbes of Callender. — Schoolmaster's salary
±34 4s. 4R, with about ±14 fees.— The celebrated
Mr. Macadam, engineer and road-constructor, was
born at Waterhead in Carsphairn. His father shortly
afterwards sold the greater part of his estate, and
went to live at Lagwine, a few miles farther down
the river Deugh. His residence there was unfortu-
nately consumed by fire, and he left Scotland at the
time his son was about six years old, for America,
where he embarked in mercantile speculations. He
was succeeded in his business by his son. On what
account he returned to Britain we are not informed ;
but, in consequence of some chemical discoveries, he
made an advantageous government contract, which
ultimately led him — perhaps accidentally — to suggest
the improvements upon the roads to which he is
principally indebted tor celebrity.
CARSTAIRS, anciently Castleterres, a par-
ish in the upper ward of the county of Lanark. The
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length of this parish from north to south is 6 miles ;
and its breadth from east to west about 3. It is
bounded on the north by Carluke and Cainbusne-
than ; on the east by Carnwath ; on the south by
the Clyde, which separates it from Pettinain; and
on the west by Lanark. Superficial area about
12,000 acres ; of which about 10.000 are under cul-
tivation. It is divided into two districts by a ridge
of rising ground so uniform that it appears from the
Lanark road to have been artificially formed. The
higher ground is a mixture of clay and mossy earth,
and the lower a sharp sandy soil : both divisions are
of good quality, and capable of producing excellent
crops. The Mouse traverses the centre of the par-
ish. Near the village is the magnificent mansion of
Carstairs, the seat of Henry Monteath, Esq., the
principal heritor. There is a Eoman camp on a
rising ground near the Clyde, at Corbiehall, of which
. — notwithstanding the depredations of the plough —
the prartoriuni and walls of eircumvallation are still
very risible. Several Roman antiquities, as coins,
instruments of war, and eulinarv utensils, have been
dug up here. Population, in 1801, 899; in 1831,
9S1. Houses, in 1831, 183. Assessed propertv, in
181.5, .£4,022 The village of Carstairs is 3 rniles
west of Carnwath, and 3 east of Lanark, on the road
from the latter to Edinburgh. Population 420. It
has been greatly improved in aspect of late years.
The parish-church is in the centre of the village
About H mile to the west is the village of Ravens-
worth. Population 120 This parish is in the
presbytery of Lanark, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr.
Stipend .£233 18s. 7d., with glebe of the value of
£35. Unappropriated teinds £305 7s. 4d. Patron,
Monteath of Carstairs Schoolmaster's salary £'32,
with above £30 fees.
CART (The Black), a river in Renfrewshire,
which taking its rise in Castle-Semple loch, may be
considered as a continuation of the Ayrshire Calder.
On issuing from the loch it runs eastward, giving
motion to the cotton-mills at Johnston and Linwood.
It is joined by the Gryfe at Walkinshaw, and by the
Vrhite Cart at Inchinnan bridge, about half-a-mile
above the confluence of the united streams with the
Clyde, 7 miles below Glasgow.
CART (The White), a river in Renfrewshire,
which takes its rise in the moors in the parish of
Eaglesham, and, after a circuitous course of about
20 miles, joins the Black Cart at Inchinnan bridge,
which consists properly of two bridges, the one
thrown across the Gryfe, and the other across the
V. bite Cart. In its course it gives motion to a vast
quantity of machinery, and waters the populous vil-
lage of Pollokshaws, and the town of Paisley, where
it is navigable for vessels of SO tons burden; the
navigable communication with the Clyde being com-
pleted by a canal, by which the shallows at Inchin-
nan bridge are avoided. On the 29th of May, 1840,
a branch canal from the Forth and Clyde canal, to
the Clyde opposite the mouth of the .Cart, was opened
under the name of the Cart and Forth Junction canal.
It is about three-fourths of a mile in length The
Levern joins the Cart near Crookston castle.
CARTERHAIGH, a fine green holm lying in
the angle formed by the junction of the Ettrick and
Yarrow, the scene of the fairy ballad of ' Tamlane.'
CARTLAND CRAGS, a vast chasm in the
sandstone rocks forming the bed of the Mouse, im-
mediately above Lanark ; formed by the lower part
or projecting shoulder of a great mountain-mass, de-
tached from the body or upper part, and extending
more than three quarters of a mile in a curved line
from south-west to north-east, with a depth of
several hundred feet. To ascertain how this enor-
mous and striking fissure has. been produced is a
curious geological problem ; the more interesting, as
the phenomena of Cartland crags are such as to fur-
nish a remarkable test for trying the merits of the two
theories which divide the geological world. Accord-
ing to the principles of the igneous theory, a vein of
trap, which traverses the strata in a direction almost
perpendicular to the course of the chasm near its
centre, renders it an example on a great scale of dis-
ruption and dislocation by explosion from below.
On the other hand, Cartland crags evidently pos-
sess all the data requisite to form a case of what
is called in the aqueous theory, subsidence ; an ex
planation which Dr. Macknight is inclined to prefer,
because the trap, from the smallness of its mass,
seems totally inadequate, as. a mechanical power, to
the effect produced. The direction of the rent, in-
stead of following the course of the vein — which it
must have done had it owed its existence to this
cause — is very nearly at right angles to that course ;
and it appears that the trap itself had been originally
a part of the formation or mountain-mass, previous
to the time when the rent took place. The Cart-
land sandstone belongs to the oldest of the floetz
rocks. In the under part of this formation, it alter-
nates with grey wacke, and contains lime in calc-
spar veins. Some varieties are good specimens of
what Mr. Jameson considers as chemical depositions.
The trap consists of compact greenstone ; basalt in-
cluding olivin and augit ; and a substance interme-
diate between basalt and clinkstone. At the lower
part of the ravine, the road from Glasgow to Lanark
is carried across on a bridge of three arches. A few
yards above this bridge is Wallace's cave, whose
name is attached to various localities here ; and a
little below, there is an old bridge of one arch, sup-
posed to be of Roman construction.
CARTSDIKJE, or Crawfurdsdike, a village in
Renfrewshire, adjoining to the town of Greenock ;
from which it is separated by the Cart's burn ; erected
a free burgh of barony in 1633, by charter from
Charles I. It has a small quay, but is now quite a
suburb of Greenock, and included within the parlia-
mentary' boundaries of that burgh. See Greexock.
CAS'SILLIS CASTLE, a noble old mansion,
the propert\' of the Marquess of Ailsa, on the left
bank of the Doon, about a mile from the village of
Dalrymple, in Ayrshire. David, 3d Lord Kennedy,
was created Earl of Cassillis in 1510, and this castle
was the principal residence of the family till the ex-
tinction of the male-line in 1759 About a quarter
of a mile to the south of the castle are three or four
small green hills, known as Cassillis Dounans, and
long regarded as the frequent scene of fairy revelry.
— There is a well-known ballad" of which the first
stanzas run thus :
"The tryp-iee they catoe to my Lord Casillis' yett.
And O I but tliey sang outline ;
They san^ sae sweet, and sae complete,
That doon cam our fair lady.
S'ie cam trippin? doun the stairs,
Wi'a her maids before her;
As soou as they saw her weel-far'd face.
They coost their glaroourie owre her."
Of the transactions sung in this ballad the following
account is usually given. John, 6th Earl of Cassillis,
commonly termed " the grave and solemn Earl,"
married as his first wife, Lady Jean Hamilton, daugh-
ter of "Thomas, 1st Earl of Haddington. It is said,
that this match took place contrary to the inclina-
tions of the young lady, whose affections had been
previously engaged by a certain Sir John Faa of
* First printed in the 4th vol. of the ' Tea-table Miseellpny,'
which was published about the year 1733; and given in Fiolay's
collection, under the title of ' The Gypsie Laddie. * QBallads,
vol ii. p. 3!»0— See also Chambers's Ballads, p. 143; aud Cou
stable's M.igaiiue, vol. i.
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Dunbar — in the neighbourhood of which was her
paternal seat of Tyr.ninghame — who was neither
grave nor solemn, and moreover, much handsomer than
his successful rival. While Lord Cassillis was absent
on some mission from the Scottish pailiament to that
of England, Sir John, with his followers, repaired to
Cassillis, where the young lady then resided, and
persuaded her to elope with him to England. As
ill luck would have it, the Earl returned home before
the lovers could cross the Border, — pursued and over-
took them, — and in the conflict all the masquerade
gypsies were slain save one, and the weeping Coun-
tess brought back to her husband's mansion, where
she remained till a dungeon was prepared for her
near the village of Maybole, wherein she languished
for the short remainder of her life in humble sorrow
and devotion. This is one edition of the story, still
very current in the county where the elopement took
place ; but it is not supported by the tenor of the
ballad, which was composed by the only surviving
ravisher, and is contradicted by a number of those
who still recite the verses. Indeed, a very numerous
jury of matrons, " spinsters and knitters in the sun,"
pronounce the fair Countess guilty of having eloped
with a genuine gypsy, though compelled in some
degree to that low-lived indiscretion by certain
wicked charms and philtres, of which Faa and his
party are said to have possessed the secret. It is
not now possible to fix the precise date of Lady
Cassillis's elopement with 'the Gypsie laddie;' or the
identity of the frail one herself. Lady Jean Hamil-
ton, of the Haddington family, was born in the year
1607, and died in 1G42. Moreover there is a letter
extant from her husband to the Rev. Robert Doug-
lass, written shortly after her death, in which he
expresses a respect and tenderness for his wife's
memory quite inconceivable had she been guilty of
such a misdemeanour as that supposed. It is alleged
that she lived long enough in her confinement at
Maybole to work a piece of tapestry, still preserved
at Colzean House, in which she represented her
unhappy flight, but with circumstances unsuitable
to the details of the ballad, and as if the deceits of
' glamourie ' had still bewildered her memory; for
she is mounted behind her lover, gorgeously attired,
on a superb white courser, and surrounded by a
groupe of persons who bear no resemblance to a
herd of gypsies. *
CASSLEY (The), a small river which rises in
the hills in the north-west extremity of Creich, in
Sutherland, and, taking a course nearly south, falls
into the frith of Tain, about 12 miles from its source.
The salmon of this river are small and white, and
highly esteemed. There is a fine salmon-leap about
a mile above the bridge of Cassley, which is 7 miles
distant from the bridge of Oykell.
< CASTLECARY, a hamlet in the shire of Stir-
ling, and parish of Falkirk ; 8 miles west-south-west
of Falkirk, on the line of the Forth and Clyde canal.
Castlecary, according to General Roy, was one of
the praesidia, or principal stations on the wall of
Antoninus, as is evident from its dimensions, and
the number of antiquities discovered there. A Ro-
man way led out from it towards the south ; and it
seems probable that this place was the Coria Dam-
niorum of Ptolemy, and the same which Nennius
calls Caer Ceri. General Roy has preserved a plan
of the ancient fort, and of the antiquities discovered
* A portrait of the frail countess is shown at Holyrond ; bot
its Authenticity is by no means well-established. Mr. Sharp**,
and many others, regard it as a portrait of I.ady Sunderland,
the Snt'baris.sa of Waller. There is another shown at Cnlzean ;
and of which an engraving is given in Constable's Magazine for
1817. Mr. Sharpe suspects that the tapestry at Colzean is nnly
a fragment representing a man arid woman riding on a white
horse, and a group ot attendants, and •-' rebaptized by house-
keepers, who have heard the old tradition."
here. The fort itself is now nearly effaced by agri-
cultural operations.
CASTLE-DOUGLAS, a thriving little town m
the parish of Kelton, and stewartry of Kirkcudbright;
on the road from Kirkcudbright to Dumfries; 89
miles south-south-west of Edinburgh, 18 west by
south of Dumfries, and 10 north-east of Kirkcud-
bright. Population, in 1833, 1,S85. Its name is
derived from Threave castle, the ruins of which
stronghold stand on the south-west of the town.
Prior to 1792, it was called Carlinwark, from a
lake in the vicinity ; when it was erected into a
burgh-of-barony, under its present title, by royal
charter in 1790. A new and extended chartei
was obtained in 1829. The magistracy and coun-
cil consist of a provost, 2 bailies, 17 councillors,
who are elected triennially on the 1st Y/ednes-
day of September. All persons resident within
the boundaries of the burgh, and having right
by feu to a piece of ground within the same, are
entitled to elect or be elected. The property of
the burgh, in 1833, was £573 15s. lid.; the debts
.£167 10s. 7d. The average annual revenue £20;
expenditure £13 5s. Circuit small debt courts are
held here. It consists of one principal street lying
along the public road, from Dumfries to Port-patrick,
and some back streets laid out in a neat manner.
It has a modern town-house, and some other pubbc
buildings. Its consequence has been increased by
the transfer of Keltonhill annual horse fair to its
bounds. It has a large grain market every Monday.
Carlinwark loch is now connected by a canal with
the river Dee, and since this was done its dimensions
have been much limited. It contains abundance of
perch and pike, and has yielded a considerable quan-
tity of shell-marl. There are two dissenting meet-
ing-houses in the town, besides a parish-school.
The burgh-school is a good one, and is attended on
an average by about 160 scholars. Sir William
Douglas, by deed of mortification in 1831, left a
sum, now producing £41 annually, to the magis-
trates and council of Castle-Douglas, to be divided
among six schools, and the poor of the parish, ac-
cording to a scale of proportion pointed out in the
deed. See Kelton.
CASTLE-DUART. See Duart Castle.
CASTLE-GRANT. See Cromdale.
CASTLEHILL. See Cardross.
CASTLE-HUNTLY. See Long-Forgan.
CASTLE-KENNEDY. See Inch.
CASTLE-KILLCHURN. See Killchurn
Castle.
CASTLE LAW, one of the most northerly
range of the Lammermuir hills, in the parish of
Gilford or Yester, in Haddingtonshire ; rising to the
height of 940 feet above sea-level. On the summit
of this hill there is a circular camp, the circuit of
which contains nearly 4 Scots acres. It measures,
within the ramparts, 370 feet from east to west ;
and 337 feet from south to north. About three
quarters of a mile to the east of this hill, is another
hiU, 860 feet in height, on the top of which also is
an ancient camp called The Castles, of somewhat
smaller dimensions ; and about two furlongs south
of the Castle Law, on a smaller hill called The
Witches' Knowe, is a third camp. See the 3d vol. of
the ' Archreologia Scotica.'
CASTLE-LEOD. See Fodderty.
CASTLE-MENZIES. See Weem.
CASTLEM1LK. See Carmdnnock.
CASTLEPHAIRN. See Glencairn.
CASTLE -SEMPLE LOCH, a fine sheet of
water in the parish of Lochwinnoch in Renfrewshire,
sometimes called Loch Winnoch. It is chiefly fed
by the waters of the Calder, which, flowing in a
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south-east direction from the borders of Ayrshire,
and fetching a circiut round the village of Lochwin-
noch, turns east and falls into this loch on the wes-
tern side. The Dubbs connects it with Kilbirnie
loch. Castle- Semple loch was originally between
4 and 5 miles in length, and rather more than 1 in
breadth ; but it has been considerably lessened by
draining. It would appear, from the description of
Hamilton of Wishaw, that Lord Semple, then pro-
prietor of this lake and the adjoining lands, com-
menced to drain it in 16S0, or 1700. The estate
was sold by Hew, Lord Semple, in 1727. to Colonel
M'Dowall, a younger son of M'Dowall of Garthland,
who continued the plan of draining the lake, and, in
1735, had made great progress in doing so. Sub-
sequent proprietors have directed their attention to
the same object; and the effect has been the re-
covery of a great extent of fine rich meadow land.
In 1773, and in 1774, a canal was constructed of
nearly 2 miles in length, at an expense of ±'2,000,
by which above 400 acres of a very deep rich soil
was recovered. The loch still covers about 200
acres ; but considerably extends itself when flooded,
and during winter. The family of Semple was very
early in possession of the lands around this loch.
Robert Sympil was vassal in Elziotstoun on the south
side of the lake, under the high-steward of Scotland,
about 1220; and previous to 1309, Robert Sympil
of Elziotstoun was seneschal of Strathgrife. In 1474,
Sir William Sympil, Lord of Elziotstoun, obtained
a charter of the baronies of Elziotstoun and Castle-
toun — now Castle-Semple — from James III. Sir
John Sympil was raised to the dignity of the peer-
age, with the title of Lord Sympil, by James IV.,
in 1488. Elliotston and Castle-Semple continued
in possession of this ancient family till sold, as above-
mentioned, in 1727, after having been their propertv
for about 500 years. In 1813, William M'Dowall
of Garthland and Castle-Semple, sold his estate of
Castle-Semple to John Harvey, Esquire, of Jamaica.
Eastward of the lake, and on the south side, are the
remains of the old tower of Elliotston, the residence
of the Semple family previous to 1550. Its length
is 42 feet, and its breadth 33 feet over the walls.
Between 1547 and 1572, Robert, commonly called
the great Lord Semple, built a tower, called the
Peel — the ruins of whieb still exist — on a small
island on the lake, now forming part of the main-
land. This tower was in the form of an irregular
pentagon, having a sharp end towards the head of
the loch. " It was built," says Dr. Caldwell, "over
a strong arch, with bulwarks, gun-ports, &c, and is
environed with an immense cairn of stones round all
its foundations, to a considerable height above high
water."* The castle at Castletoun, or Castle-
Sernple, near the eastern end of the lake, was erected
or more probably rebuilt by the first Lord Semple,
who died in 1513. He changed its name -from Castle-
toun to Castle-Semple. In Bleau's Atlas, published
!n 1654, this castle is represented by a mark denot-
ing the largest size of castles. Crawford — who
wrote in 1710 — says, " Upon the brink of the loch
stands the castle of Sempill, the principal messuage
of a fair lordship of the same denomination, which
consists of a large court, part of which seems to be
a very ancient building, adorned with pleasant orch-
ards and gardens." In 1735 this ancient house was
demoUshed by Colonel M'Dowall, who erected an
elegant modern house on its site. Some workmen
repairing drains in 1830 found part of the foundations
of the castle still existing below ground. In 1504,
* A vpry fine copper cannon, having the arms of Scotland,
and J. R. S. engraved on it, was found in the loch near the
Peel. This relique is preserved at Castle-Semple. Tradition
reports that other aix guns were lost at the place where this
one was fuuud.
John Lord Semple founded a collegiate church near the
lake, having a provost, six chaplains or prebendaries,
two boys, and a sacristan. A stone in the outer wall
bears the letters R. L. S., and the arms of Sempill
and Montgomery. It was found, about 25 years ago,
near the site of the castle of Semple, and was placed
in its present- situation by the late Mr. Harvey.
The church is 71 feet 6 inches in length; 24 feet
3 inches in breadth ; and 15 feet 6 inches in height.
A portion at the east end, separated from the rest,
was used as a place of burial by the Semple family,
as it now is by Colonel Harvey the present pro-
prietor. Dr. Caldwell describes its walls as being
covered with ivy, and surrounded by a fine tall horn-
bean hedge. The roof was taken off about forty
years ago, and the ivy has penetrated into the inte-
rior. In ancient times there appears to have been a
village at this place, and a chapel in its neighbour-
hood dedicated to St. Bride. A small burn, which
here falls into the lake, is still named St. Bride's
burn ; and the residence of Colonel Harvey's factor,
St. Bride's mill. On the hill of Kenmure, which is
of secondary trap rock, there is an imitation of a
Chinese temple, from which a very fine view of the
lake and surrounding scenery can be obtained. It is
supposed to have been erected about the middle of
last century by one of the family of M'Dowall who
succeeded the Semples. — The Glasgow and Ayr
railway passes through the estate of Castle-Semple,
and in the immediate neighbourhood of the loch.
CASTLE-SPYXIE. See Spyxee.
CASTLE-TIORAM See Ardxamtjrchax.
CASTLETON, or CASTLETOWN, a village
in the parish of Olrick in Caithness, at the head of
Dunnet bay, 5 miles east of Thurso, on the post-
road to Houna. There are extensive quarries of Hag
or paving-stone here. Population, in 1830, 311.
CASTLETON OF BRAEMAR, a small village
in the district of Braemar, parish of Crathy, Aberdeei 1-
shire, on the eastern bank of the rapid Clume, a little
above its junction with the Dee ; 57 miles west of Aber-
deen, and 15 from the Spittal of Glenshee, on the road
to Perth. There are two excellent inns here ; and the
place is well-known to tourists as forming convenient
head-quarters while visiting the Cairngorm moun-
tains, the Linn of Dee, Mar forest, or Strath Dee.
See articles Braemar, and Crathie.
CASTLETOWN, a parish forming the southern
extremity of the shire of Roxburgh, having the form
of an irregular triangle, and including a more extensive
area than any other parish in the south of Scotland.
It is bounded on the north by the parishes of Cavers,
Hobkirk, and Southdean ; on the east and south by
Northumberland and Cumberland ; and on the west
by Dumfries-shire. Its greatest length, from Fauna
hill, or from Needs Law, on the north-east, to its
southern extremity at the confluence of Mare burn with
Kershope water is 174 miles; and its greatest breadth
from Peel fell on the east to Tudhopehillonthe west,
is 14 miles. In history and poetry, and very frequently
still in conversation, its name is Liddesdale, from the
river Liddel, which runs through it fiom east to
south. f The upper or northern part is mountainous
and bleak ; but is generally dry, and affords good
sheep-pasturage. Some of the mountains both here,
and along the western and eastern boundaries, are
very high and precipitous. iMillenwood Fell, and
Windhead, are each nearly 2,000 feet in height ; and
t In the old histories, and geographical descriptions of Scot-
land, it is called * The County of Lidisdale ;' and, in old writs,
it is styled 'The Lordship1 of that name. In December 1540,
the lands and lordship of the forest of Jedburgh, with the lands
and lordship of Lidiadale, were annexed to the Crown, by Act
of Parliament. And, on the 2d of January, 1(343, the lands and
dominion of Lidisdale appear to have been granted to Francis,
Earl of Buccleuch.
218
CASTLETOWN.
Tudhope hill is 1,830, and, being seen from a great
distance at sea, serves as a landmark for ships. The
lower extremity of the parish, and all parts of it
distant from the streams, are wild and bleak. Along
the banks of the Hermitage and the Liddel, however,
it is luxuriant, full of rural beauty, and occasionally
picturesque. The valley of the Hermitage, stretch-
ing from the rugged mountains on the north-west,
10 miles eastward till the junction of the stream with
the Liddel, is tufted with natural wood, and abounds
in the rich scenes of pastoral life. Near the head of
the parish on the east, the rivers Tyne and Liddel
take their rise in the midst of a vast bog, which, on
account of its stagnant appearance, is called Dead
Water. For 10 miles, the banks of the Liddel are
entirely naked ; but on its junction with the Her-
mitage, it is fringed with plantation, and, throughout
the rest of its course, it flows through a valley opu-
lent in the beauties of landscape. Its tributaries,
besides the Hermitage, are the Tweeden, the Tinnis,
the Blackburn, and the Kershope, the last of which
forms the boundary with England. All these streams
abound in trout ; on some of them are fine cascades ;
and all, through the Liddel, send their waters — in a
direction different from all the other streams of Rox-
burghshire— toward the Sol way frith. Limestone is
abundant in this district ; coal is obtained to some
extent on the estate of Liddel bank : and excellent
freestone is everywhere found, except at the head
of the Hermitage. Mineral springs, possessing me-
dicinal properties, and in considerable repute for
their virtues, exist at Thorneshope, in the morass
called the Dead Water, — at Lawston, — at Flat, —
and on the Tweeden, — the last of these is petrifac-
tive, and exhibits, in an interesting manner, the vari-
ous stages of the petrifying process, — fog or moss,
at the edge of the spring, about 8 inches high,
soft and flourishing at the top, half-petrified at the
middle, and converted into solid stone at the root.
The climate, owing to the attraction of the moun-
tains and the coldness of the soil, is very moist ; yet,
compared with that of many other districts, it is
exceedingly salubrious. Toward the close of last
century, one native attained, in the full possession
of all her faculties, the advanced age of 113. The
soil of the holm land is occasionally of a light but
often of a very deep and fine loam, and, when ju-
diciously cultivated, bears luxuriant crops. Land
under tillage, however, is found chiefly on the banks
of the rivers ; many hundred acres which were for-
merly subjected to the plough, having been thrown
into pasture in consequence of the high price of
sheep and wool. Even mossy ground, though ap-
parently useless, affords considerable nourishment
for both black cattle and sheep. Different species
of grass rise in constant succession in their respec-
tive seasons ; and the particular plant called ' the
moss,' which springs before any other at the close of
winter, is carefully sought after by the flocks This
secluded district was, at a former period, inhabited
by tribes of freebooters, the chief of whom were the
Elliotts and the Armstrongs, who acknowledged the
civil authority of neither Scotland nor England, and
maintained a precarious but very abundant subsistence
by predatory excursions upon all the districts around.
Their castles, or peel-houses, where they stored their
booty and rallied at a moment of danger, still, in
some quarters, lift their ruined heights before the
eyes of a traveller as memorials of a lawless age.*
* There is a minute inserted in the session-records, of date
17tli January Kf-19, which mentions that "the English array,
e'linmaiidt d by Colonels Bright and Pride, and under the eim-
dnet of General Cromwell, on their return to England, did lie
at Ihe kirk of Castletown several nights, inwhich time they
brake down and burnt the communion-tables, and the seatB of
the kiik; and at their removing, tarried away the minister's
Castletown derives its name from a village- -no longer
in existence, though some of its hearth-stones were
at a recent date dug up — which was built under the
shelter of one of these strongholds. This castle,
which stood on the summit of a precipice 100 feet
in height, on the east bank of the river Liddel, and
the rampart and force of which still remain entire,
is said to have been founded by Ranulph de Soulis
in the reign of David I. In the village of Castle-
town, stood a church which was dedicated to St.
Martin, and was a vicarage of the priory of Jedburgh.
Besides this, there were in the district, two other
churches, three chapels, and a monastery : the men of
lawlessness and general plunder, attempting, in the
superstitious spirit of their times, to atone for the in-
juries which they pertinaciously inflicted on their
fellow-men, by liberally building, endowing, or sup-
porting sacred edifices. Ruins of the religious struc-
tures may still be seen in sequestered spots where
now the human foot rarely treads, and where undis-
turbed repose invites the solitary sheep to luxuriate
on the wild pasturage. One of the churches was
called the Wheel church; because it stood in the
vicinity of the Roman causeway leading from Stan-
more across the north-east corner of the district into
Liddesdale, and constituting the only path in that
part of Scotland which admitted the passage of
wheeled carriages. — The most celebrated antiquity
of Liddesdale is Hermitage castle, which consists of
a tall, massive, gloomy-looking double tower, pro-
tected by a ditch and strong rampart, and rising
aloft from the centre of an extensive waste, over-
looking the limpid, murmuring waters of the Her-
mitage river, amid a scene of barrenness and deso-
lation. This fortress M'as one of the largest and
strongest on the border ; and, remaining entire h
its walls, was lately put into a state of nearly com-
plete repair. Within a few yards of it, are the ruins
of the baronial chapel, surrounded by a burying-
ground still partially in use. The castle was built,
in the 1 3th century, by Comyn, Earl of Menteith. It
afterwards became the property of the once potent
family of Soulis ; it next, by forfeiture, went into the
possession of the Douglasses ; it was then made over
by Archibald, the sixth Earl of Angus, and the re-
presentative of the Douglasses, to Hepburn, Earl of
Bothwell, in exchange for the castle and lordship of
Bothwell in Clydesdale ; and, the possessions and
title of the Hepburns having become the property of
Francis Stewart, it passed, on the forfeiture of the
latter, into the hands of the Buccleuch family, who
still possess it. When Hermitage castle was in the
possession of the Douglasses, the brave Sir Alexan-
der Ramsay of Dalhousie was starved to death within
its walls ; and, when in the possession of the storied
Earl of Bothwell — who had been severely wounded in
an attempt to seize Elliot of the Parke, a desperate
freebooter — it was visited by Queen Mary. In order
to attain her purpose, she penetrated the mountainous
and almost trackless region which lies between Teviot-
dale and Liddesdale, attended by only a few followers ;
returning on the same day to Jedburgh whence she
started, and performing a journey of upwards of 48
miles through almost all conceivable varieties of dif-
ficulty and obstruction. Other antiquities besides
Hermitage castle consist chiefly of cairns, Picts
works, and camps. The most remarkable is a camp,
entirely circular, about 100 feet diameter, and con-
sisting of a series of concentric walls, all penetrated
by a door or opening toward the east : this camp oc.
cupies the whole summit of Carby hill, which stands
books to the value of 1.000 marks and above, 2nd also the
books-of-session — with which they lighted their tobacco-pipes —
the baptism, marriage, and examination- rolls, front October
1612 to September 1618, all which were lost and destroyed.**
CAT
219
CAT
detached from other elevations, and commands an
dxtensive view of part of Cumberland At Miln-
holm there is an ancient cross of one stone, 8 feet
4 inches high. A sword 4 feet long is cut out on the
south side of the cross, and immediately above seve-
ral letters. The tradition concerning it is this : — One
of the governors of Hermitage castle — some say Lord
Soulis, others Lord Douglas — having entertained a
passion for a young woman then residing in the lower
part of the parish, went to her house, and was met
t>y her father, who, wishing to conceal his daughter,
was killed by the governor. The murderer was pur-
sued, and took refuge with Armstrong of Mangerton,
who had influence enough to prevail on the people to
desist from the pursuit, and by this means saved his
life. Seemingly with a view to make a return for
this favour, but secretly j ealous of the power and in-
fluence of Armstrong, the ungrateful wretch invited
him to Hermitage castle, where he was basely mur-
dered. The governor himself, in his turn, was killed
by Jock of the Side, of famous memory, brother to
Armstrong. The cross was erected in memory of
this transaction, near to Ettleton churchyard, where
he was buried, and almost opposite to Mangerton. Lid-
desdale has been much improved by its intersection
with new roads. In the centre of its more arable part,
on a haugh on the right bank of the Liddel, stands the
large modern village of !S7ew Castletown. It owes
its origin to Henry, Duke of Buccleuch, and has en-
tirely superseded the ancient Castletown, situated a
little farther up the river. It consists of two long
streets of new, tidy houses, — every house having at-
tached to it a plot of ground ; but, though it has a
weekly market and three annual fairs or hiring-days,
it enjoys little trade, no manufacturing pursuit, and
but a modicum of general prosperity. It stands on
the road which wends along the banks of the Liddel;
and is 5 miles east from Cannoby, 20 south from
Hawick, and 26 from Jedburgh. In addition to the
parish-church, it is the site of a meeting-house, be-
longing to the United Secession ; and it is enriched
witli two subscription libraries and a friendly society.
Population, in 1801, 1,109; in 1821, 2;038; in
1831, 2,227. Houses 305. Assessed property
£13,217. — This parish is in the presbytery of Lang-
holm and synod of Dumfries. Patron, the Duke of
Buccleuch. Stipend .£249 ]9s. lid.; value of
glebe £20. Unappropriated teinds £150 8s. lid
There are four parochial schools. The salary of the
four schools amounts to £51 6s. 6|d., of which the
principal teacher has ±'30, and the remaining sum is
equally divided among the other three. The fees of
the four schools amount to ±'72 annually. There
are two private schools.. — This parish gave birth to
the celebrated John Armstrong, M. D., whose father
and brother were ministers of it; and who has sung
the beauties of his native vale, in his highly finished
Poem on Health, Book III:
;
- Such the stream,
On whose Arcadian banks I first drew air.
I.iddal, till now — except in Doric lays,
Tnn'd to her murmurs by her love-sick swains—
Unknown in song- ; though not a purer stream
Through meads nmre flowYy. — more romantic ernves,
Rolls toward the western main. Hail, sacred flood !
Mav still thy hospitable swains he blest
In rural innocence ; thy mountains still
Teem with the fleecy race; thy tuneful woods
For ever flourish, and thy vales look t:ay,
With painted meadows, and the yolden grain!
CATERLINE, an ancient parish, now compre-
hended in the parish of Kinneif, Kincardine. The
village of the same name is 5 miles north-north-east
of Bervie, on the German ocean. A convenient and
safe harbour for coasting- vessels of light burden
might be made here at small expense.
CATERTHUN, a hill in the parish of Menmm'r,
in Forfarshire, 5 miles north of Brechin ; so called
from the British aider, 'a fortress;' and dun, 'a
hill.' It is remarkable for a strong fortification on
its summit. This building consists of an immense
quantity of loose stores ranged around the summit
in an- oval form. Round the external base is a deep
ditch ; and 100 yards below are the vestiges of another
surrounding the hill. The area within the first or
highest mound is flat ; the length of the oval is 43G
feet, and the transverse diameter 200. This area is
covered with a fine soft grass, while, without the
ring, the surface of the hill is covered with heath
and moss. Within the area is a spring of the coldest
water ; and near the east side are the remains of a
rectangular building, of which the dyke and ditch
are yet to be easily traced. The ascent of the hill
is very steep, and the summit can only be ap-
proached in one direction. There is another for-
tification of inferior strength in the neighbourhood,
on a lower hill, to the northward, called Brown
Caterthun, from the colour of its ramparts which
are composed of earth : that previously described be-
ing known as White Caterthun. It is of a circular
figure, and consists of several concentric circles. As
White Caterthun at a distance has a resemblance to
the frustrum of a cone, from the heap of stones at
its summit, it has been considered by some to have
been a volcano, the crater of which is extinct. But
there neither is the appearance of lava, nor of any
other volcanic matter, in the neighbourhood; and
there is evidently a systematic arrangement of the
stones which compose its fortification. Pennant
thinks that these hill-forts may have been occupied
by the Caledonians, previous to their engagement at
the foot of the Grampians with Agricola.*
CATHCART,f a parish partly in the county of
Lanark, but chiefly in that of Renfrew ; bounded on
the north by Govan, a part of the Gorbals parish, and
Rutherglen ; on the east by Rutherglen and Car-
rnunnock; on the south by Carmunnoek and Mearns;
and on the west by Eastwood. Its extent, from
north to south, may be estimated at 6 miles ; its
mean breadth at 2.1 ; and its superficies at 3,000
Scots acres. Assessed property, in 1815, .£10,638.
The surface is very agreeably diversified with hill
and dale, presenting to the eye those alternate ris-
ings and falls which constitute picturesque beauty.
Many of the hills bear the marks of the plough to
the very summit, and none are so steep as to prevent
cultivation. Through these hills the White Cart
winds its romantic course. Towards the southern
part of the parish, the country is more bleak and
barren, and the hills of greater height. Mr. Ram-
say says: " Sluggish and unadorned though the river
White Cart be in the lower part of its course, it
exhibits much beauty in its progress through the
parish of Cathcart, the banks being frequently ele-
vated and clothed with a rich drapery of wood.
Such is the warmth and shelter in some of the
sequestered spots on its banks, that an almost per-
petual verdure is to be found. In the midst of this
scenery ' the Bard of Hope,' and the amiable author
of ' The Sabbath,' were, in their childhood, accus-
tomed to pass the summer-months and feed their
young fancies, removed from the smoke and noise
of their native city. The latter, in his ' Birds of
Scotland,' says:
* In King's l Munimenta Antiqua* [Vol. i. PI. I. and II.]
there are accurate drawings of White Caterthun. Pennant
has also given a view of White Caterthun.
-t- The etymology of this name usually adopted is Caer-c/irt,
' the Castle on the Cart.' Mr. Ramsay, in his very accurate
sketches of Renfrewshire [Kdin. 183!), 4to. p. 75:3 prefers the
etymology Caeth-cart, ' the Strait of Cart,' the river htre run.
niug in a narrow channel.
CAT
220
CAT
• Forth from ray low.rnofed home I wandered Mitlie
Down to thy side, sweet Cart! where, cross the stream,
A range of stones, below a shallow ford,
Stood in the place of the now spanning: arch.*
And Campbell, in his ' Lines on revisiting Cathcart,'
thus tenderly apostrophizes the pleasant fields which
he had so often traversed ' in life's morning march,
when his bosom was young:'
4 Oil ! scenes of my childhood, and dear to my heart,
Ye grenn waving- woods on the margin of Cart,
How blest in tbe morning1 of life I have strny'd
By the stream of the vale and the grass-covered glade !' "
There are five villages in the parish : viz. the two
Cathcarts, Langside, Clarkston Toll, and Westfield.
The parish gives name, and the title of Earl, to the
ancient family of Cathcart, whose hereditary estates
here were alienated by Alan, 3d Lord Cathcart, in
1546. The family within the present century, re-
purchased the lands on which the castle of Cathcart
stands, and another portion named Symshill. Popu-
lation, in 1801, 1,059, of whom only 55 resided in
Lanarkshire; in 1831, 2,228. Houses, in 1831, 284,
of which 31 were in Lanarkshire. — This parish is
in the presbytery of Glasgow, and synod of Glasgow
and Ayr. Stipend £274 4s. Id. ; glebe £16. Un-
appropriated teinds £15 19s. 5d. Patron, Gordon
of Aikenhead. Church built in 1832; sittings 750.
— Schoolmaster's salary £30, with about £15 fees.
There were 3 private schools in 1834 The field of
Langside, remarkable as the scene, on the 13th of
May, 1568, of the last fruitless effort of the unfor-
tunate Mary to regain her crown, is in this parish.
An eminence is yet pointed out, near the old castle
of Cathcart, called the Court knowe, where the
queen stood during the engagement; and a hawthorn
bush — commonly known by the name of ' Queen
Mary's Thorn ' — marks the spot. The castle of
Cathcart, 1J mile south-east of Langside, has been
a very strong building. " The time when the castle
of Cathcart was reared," says Mr. Ramsay, "is un-
known. From the remains it appears to have been
a place of great strength. Two of its sides are com-
pletely defended by the river, to which there is an
almost perpendicular descent of tremendous height.
The access on the other side — except by a narrow
entry which might have been secured by a ditch and
drawbridge — is pretty steep and difficult, so that, in
times when the art of attack was not so well under-
stood, it might have made a considerable defence.
The original edifice consisted of a square tower, ' to
which,' says Hamilton of Wisliaw, writing about the
year 1710, ' severall new buildings have been added.'
This more modern portion was ' completely re-
moved' by the end of that century. From Wishaw
we also learn that the castle ' had fruitful! gardens
about it.' This edifice was inhabited till about the
year 1750, when it was given up for demolition by
tbe proprietor of that day, Maxwell of Williamwood,
upon his removing to another dwelling. The mate-
rials were sold to a tradesman in Glasgow, who, hav-
ing taken off the roof, was proceeding to demolish
the rest of the building, when he found himself
obliged to stop by the resistance he met with from
the strength and thickness of the walls. Since that
time the edifice has remained in a dismantled state,
without, however, suffering much farther injury
from the influence of the weather. Upon the bank
of the river, and adjacent to the castle, stands Cart-
side cottage, the modern mansion of the family.
Upwards of twenty years ago there was built into
the front wall of this house a stone, on which are
sculptured the arms of Carthcart, quartered with
those of Stair, indicating the connection of these
families through the marriage of Alan, 7th Lord
Cathcart, to a daughter of Viscount Stair, the emi-
nent lawyer."
CATHERINE (Loch). See Katrine.
CATHERINE'S (St.), a ferry on Loch Fyne,
opposite to Inverary, and equidistant from the nor-
thern terminations of the Strachur and Ardnoe roads.
There is a small pier here, 90 yards in length.
CATHKIN. See Carmunnock.
CATLAW, one of the Grampians, in the northern
part of the parish of Kingoldrum, in the county of
Angus; the elevation of which by barometrical men-
suration has been found to be 2,264 feet above the
level of the sea. [Old Statistical Account, vol. ix.
p. 131.] At the base, towards the north-east, is a
chalybeate spring. See Kingoldkdm.
CATRAIL (The), a remarkable trenched forti-
fication which may be traced from near the junction
of the Gala and Tweed to the mountains of Cumber-
land. Its general breadth is from 20 to 24 feet, and
it is supported by hill-forts scattered in the line of
its course. " It is known in the country," says
Chalmers in his < Caledonia,' [vol. i. pp. 239-242,]
"by the several names of the Catrail, and of the
Pictsworkditch. The Catrail is the British name
of ancient times ; and signifies, in the British lan-
guage— what distinctly intimates the purposes for
which it was made — 'the Dividing fence,' or 'the
Partition of Defence.' The name of the Pictswork-
ditch was applied to this remarkable fence, in more
modern times, by the same people who called Se-
verus's wall the Pictswall, and other objects by the
same well-known name. The Catrail, consisting of
a fosse, and a double rampart, runs through the
shires of Selkirk and Roxburgh, from Galashiels on
the north, to the Peel-fell, at the eastern extremity
of Lidsdale, on the south. The Pictsworkditch first
appears, on the north, at a farm called Mosalee, a
mile westward from Galashiels, near the obvious
remain of a British fort. From Mosalee, it runs,
southward, by the west side of Boghall ; and, at the
end of 2 miles, arrives at the Rink-hill, on the sum-
mit of which, there are the remains — as the name
implies — of a British hill-fort, that is of an elliptical
form, and defended by two ditches, and two ram-
parts of earth and stone. From the Rink-hill, the
Pictsworkditch proceeds, in a south-west direction,
across the Tweed, near the influx of the Howden-
pot-burn ; and continues its course to a British fort
on the west side of this stream. From this fort, the
Pictsworkditch passes Cribshill ; and is again dis-
covered several miles, westward, passing along the
south-east declivity of Minchmoor, whence it passes
Henhillhope, where it is distinctly seen, in its ob-
vious course, for a quarter of a mile. It afterwards
clearly appears as it ascends the Swinebraehill above
Yarrow kirk; and passing the Yarrow river, near
Redhawse, it is again observable several miles south-
ward, near Delorain burn, on the south side of
Ettrick river. From this position, it has been
traced across Coplaw ; and thence, southward, by
the base of Stanhopelaw, where its singular remains
are pretty distinct. For some distance, southward,
of Stanhopelaw, it cannot now be traced, owing to
the swampiness of the country ; but the Pictswork-
ditch again appears on Hendwoody common ; whence
it proceeds, in a south-west direction, across Borth-
wick water, past a farmstead called Broadlee, where
the remains of it become very distinct for the course
of a mile-and-a-half, till it reaches Slatehillmoss.
From this position, it proceeds forwards, in a south-
east direction, across Teviot river, through the farm
of North-house to Dockclcugh-hill, where its re-
mains are very distinct : from Doekcleugh-hill it
continues a south-east course, in a slanting form,
across Allan water, to a place named Dod, passing
two hill-forts on the left. From Dod, where its
remains are distinct, the Pictsworkditch proceeds
CAT
221
CEL
eastward, past another British fort called White-
hillbrae ; and it there ascends the Carriage-hill, on
■which its remains are very perfect. From Carriage-
hill it proceeds across a rivulet, called Langside
burn ; and here, says Gordon, the tourist, ' it he-
comes the landmark betwixt the Duke of Buccleuch's
estate, and Sir Gilbert Elliot of Stobs.' From Lang-
side burn its remains appear very distinct, as they
pass along the northern base of the Maiden Paps to
the Leapsteel; and thence passing Robertslin, it
traverses a tract of boggy ground called Cockspart.
Crossing the hills into the upper parts of Lidsdale,
the remains of it again appear on Dawstane-burn ;
and thence passing the abbey, it goes on to Daw-
stane-rig. From this position, faint vestiges of it
were traced nearly to the Peel-fell, which is one of
the chain of mountains that forms a natural barrier
between Northumberland, on the south, and Teviot-
dale, and Lidsdale, on the north. Gordon — who has
the merit of having first brought this curious remain
into notice — absurdly supposes it to have been a
limes, or boundary, which the Caledonians estab-
lished after their peace with the Emperor Severus.
He ought to have recollected that this work is- in
the country of the Romanized Britons of Valentia,
and lies far from the land of the Masatse and Cale-
donians. Maitland, with equal absurdity, has con-
verted the Catrail into a Roman road. If he had
only examined it, he would have seen that it is as
different from a Roman road as a crooked is from a
straight line, or as a concave work is from a convex.
The able and disquisitive Whitaker was the first
who applied the Catrail to its real purpose, by refer-
ring it to its proper period. There can hardly be a
doubt whether the Catrail was once a dividing fence,
between the Romanized Britons of the Cumbrian
kingdom, and their Saxon invaders on the east. It
cannot, indeed, be fitly referred to any other histori-
cal period of the country, which is dignified by the
site of this interesting antiquity. The Britons and
the Saxons were the only hostile people whose coun-
tries were separated by this warlike fence, which
seems to have been exactly calculated to overawe
the encroaching spirit of the Saxon people."
CATRINE, a village beautifully situated on the
north side of the river Ayr, in the western extremity
of the parish of Sorn, 15 miles east of the town of
Ayr, and 2 east by south of Mauchline. It is of a
regular form, having in the middle a square of 300
feet, with streets leading from it on the east, south,
and west; these are intersected with other cross
streets at right angles. In 17S7, Claude Alexander,
Esq. of Ballochmyle, the proprietor, in partnership
with the well-known Mr. David Dale of Glasgow,
established extensive spinning machinery here, and
built this village for the accommodation of their
work-people ; since which time it has increased
greatly, and in 1836 contained 2,645 inhabitants.
In 1838, the 2 cotton-mills here employed 750 hands,
and 290 horse power. A chapel-of-ease was built
here by Mr. Alexander, in 1792, which was pur-
chased in 1829 by the feuars of Catrine for .£400;
sittings 754. The feuars of Catrine are bound by
their feus to maintain this chapel and a burying-
ground; but the obligation does not extend to the
payment of the stipend. — A United Secession church
has recently been erected here ; sittings 580.
CAVA, a small island of Orkney, 2 miles south
of Pomona, and belonging to the parish of Orphir.
It is about a mile long, and a quarter of a mile
broad; and in 1796 was inhabited by 3 families.
There is a ruinous chapel on the island.
CAVERS, a parish of very irregular figure and
considerable extent, in the county of Roxburgh. It
consists of two detached portions, both lying on the
southern side of the Teviot. The upper and larger
portion is separated from that lying lower down the
river by the intervention of Hawick and Kirkton
parishes ; and is bounded on the north by these
last-mentioned parishes ; on the east by Hobkirk ;
on the south by Castletown parish, and Dum-
fries-shire ; and on the west and north-west by
Hawick. The western part of this division is hilly
and rugged ; hut towards the east it becomes fiat,
with a rich fertile soil. It is watered by the Teviot,
Allan water, and the Slitrige, with their tributaries.
These all rise on the northern side of the mountain-
ous range, from the southern slopes of which the
Hermitage and the Liddel descend in an opposite
direction. The loftiest mountain is the Wisp, to
the west of Mosspaul inn, which has an altitude of
1,830 feet, and commands a noble prospect, embracing
both the eastern and western seas. Tudhope, or
Tutop, to the east of Mosspaul, belongs partly to this
parish, and partly to Castletown : see the latter
article. On advancing northwards we meet with a
number of detached conical hills, amongst which are
the Maiden paps, at the head of the Slitrige ; Shelf-
hill pen, near the head of the Allan ; and Pencrest
pen to the north of both these The northern or
lower division of the parish is hounded on the north
by Minto and Bedrule parishes ; on the east by
Bedrule and Hobkirk; on the south by Kirkton and
Hawick; and on the west by Wilton and Minto.
The Rule separates it from Bedrule. In this division
is a village called Denholm, on the estate of Mr. Dou-
glas of Cavers. See Denholm. Population, in 1835,
500. Denholm was the birth-place, in 1 775, of John
Leyden. Here is an Independent chapel. Cavers,
the residence of James Douglas, Esq., is the only
mansion of note in the parish. Population, in 1801,
1,382; in 1831, 1,625. Houses, in 1831, 262. As-
sessed property, in 1815, -€11,503. — This parish is
in the presbytery of Jedburgh, and synod of Merse
and Teviotdale. Stipend £250 6s. Unappropriated
teinds £1,134 12s. 7d. Patron, Douglas of Cavers.
Church built in 1822 ; sittings 500. It is in the lower
division of the parish ; the upper division has a chapel
at Carlenrig. — There is one principal parish-school,
and two side-schools, in this parish. Salary of prin-
cipal master £30; 2d master £15 13s. lid. j 3d,
£12. There is also a private girls' school.
CAVERTON, a village in the parish of Eckford,
Roxburghshire ; 4i miles south of Kelso, near which
is an extensive moor, called Caverton Edge, on which
the Kelso races were formerly held. It was burnt
by the English in 1544, and again in 1553. The
vicinity of Moss tower, an important border-strong-
hold, about a furlong to the north-east, seems to
have drawn upon it these visitations. The barony
of Caverton belonged to the Lord Soulis, who, ac-
cording to tradition, was boiled alive at the Nine-
stane rigg in the parish of Castletown, near his castle
of Hermitage.
CAWDOR. See Caldek.
CAYLE (The). See Kale.
CELLARDYKES, a village in Fifeshire, in the
parish of Kilrenny, so called from the fishers of
Kilrenny having here cellars or storehouses for lodg-
ing their fish. It is immediately adjoining Anstru-
ther-Easter, but is united as a burgh with Kilrenny
situated about half-a-mile inland. See Kilkenny
Municipal and parliamentary constituency, in 1839,
48. Revenue £40 The principal trade is fishing
for the Edinburgh market; and the Cellardykes
fishermen are proverbial for their dexterity and
hardihood. The take of herrings by the fishermen
of this place, in 1839, was 25,000 barrels. The
number of boats was 80, of an average burden of
16 tons each. Cod and haddocks are also exten-
CER
222
CHA
lively exported from this place in a fresh, dried,
mid pickled state. There are two boys' schools
here, a female school, and an infant school. Popu-
lation, in 1811, 805; in 1836, 1,800, of whom 300
were fishermen.
CERES, a parish in the county of Fife, extending
in length about 7A miles, and in breadth from 1 to 4
miles ; bounded by St. Andrews, Kemback, and
Oupar on the north ; by St. Andrews, Kemback, and
Cameron on the east; by Cameron, Kilconquhar,
and Largo on the south; and by Cults, Kettle, and
Scoonie, on the west. This parish forms a beautiful
valley, lying to the south of Tar vet hill. Its super-
ficial area amounts to about 8,000 acres, of which
four-tenths are in tillage, five-tenths in pasture, and
one-tenth is planted as muirland. The average rent
is £1 10s. per acre. Valued rental £8,248 Is. Id.
Scots. Assessed property, in 1815, £12,753. There
are about 500 looms within this parish employed in
the manufacture of linen ; and there are 3 spinning-
mills for the manufacture of linen yarn, which, Mr.
Leighton states, produce 119,600 spyndles yearly.
Limestone is abundant, and extensively wrought ;
coal and freestone are also found here. The parish
contains 4 other villages besides that of Ceres. The
sacond village in point of extent is Craigrothie ; the
others are Chance-Inn, Pitscottie, and Coaltown.
The Eden and Ceres, with two or three smaller
rivulets, water this parish. The Ceres is formed by
the union of five streams near the village of Ceres.
It flows through the beautiful den of Dura, and joins
the Eden near Kemback.— The ruins of Craighall
house, built by the celebrated Scottish jurisconsult
Sir Thomas Hope, are situated about a mile to the
south-east of the village of Ceres; and to the south-
west are the ruins of Struthers' house, now the pro-
perty of the Earl of Glasgow. Upon the estate of
Scotstarvet, is a beautiful tower of jointed freestone,
24 feet square, and about 50 feet high. The walls
are very thick, and the windows small; the whole
is surmounted by a battlement. Magus muir, the
scene of Archbishop Sharp's murder, is partly in this
parish, partly in that of St. Andrews. Lindsay of
Pitscottie, author of a well-known history of Scot-
laud, was a native of this parish: see Pitscottie.
Population, in 1801, 2,352; in 1831, 2,740. Houses
423 This parish is in the presbytery of Cupar, and
synod of Fife. Stipend £229 13s. 4d. Unappro-
priated teinds £5 9s. 4d. Church built in 1806 ;
sittings 1,100. Patron, the Earl of Glasgow. School-
master's salary £34 4s. 4jd. with about £40 fee9.
Prior to the Reformation, there was a chapel in this
parish dedicated to St. Ninian ; and the schoolmaster
of Ceres receives a presentation to be chaplain of the
chapel of St. Ninian, within the church of Ceres,
and to be reader of that parish : a small salary of £3
Scots was formerly payable to the chaplain, from
certain houses in Cupar, but these houses cannot
now be discovered, and the chaplainry has become
a title without a benefice. The parish school-house
is a handsome building. There are also schools at
Craigrothie and Baldinny The village of Ceres is
situated 2J miles south of Cupar-Fife. It contains
several streets, and some good houses. It carries
on a considerable trade in brown linen. It has 2
fail's annually, viz. on the 24th of June, and 20th of
October. Besides the parish-church, there are here
a Relief church built in 1798, and a Secession meet-
ing-house built in 1744. The old feus in this village
are held of the proprietors of Craighall. In the
churchyard is the tombstone of John, 5th Lord
Lindsay.
CESSFORD, a small village in the parish of
Eckford, Roxburghshire ; (i\ miles north-east of
Jedburgh. There is a school here. Near it, on the
south, is the ancient castle of Cessford, which givM
the title of Baron to the Duke of Roxburgh. The
first proprietor of this castle, mentioned in history,
was Andrew Ker of Attonburn, who obtained the
title of Baron Cessford, and got a charter of confir-
mation from Archibald, Earl Douglas, dated 1446.
In 1570 the laird of Cessford was made warden of
the Scottish middle marches. Cessford castle, being
only 4 or 5 miles from the English confines, was
necessarily rendered a place of security ; and accord-
ing to tradition, there was a subterraneous vault for
; concealing both persons and goods within its walls
to which access was only got by one aperture which
I was opened or shut by a large stone with an iron
; ring in it. " This stone and ring," says the writer
of the Old Statistical Account, " have been seen by
some persons still alive ; but the entrance to the
peel or dungeon is now choked up with rubbish."
In the recent Statistical Account it is stated that
J this vault is about 17 feet long, 10 broad, and 9
j deep. No date is discernible to fix the period of the
J erection of this castle ; but from those parts of the
! walls yet entire, it appears to have been a place of
: considerable strength, both from the thickness of the
walls, which are 12 feet at an average, — the vestiges
of the battlements on the top, — the embrasures on
the sides, — and the remains of a surrounding moat
which was probably furnished with water from a
spring above the present farm-house, about 2 fur-
longs distant. The roof is entirely gone. The area
within the walls is 39 feet in length, and 20 in
breadth. See Eckford.
CESSNOCK. See Galston.
CHANCE INN. See Invehkeilor; abo Ceres.
CHANNELKIRK,* a parish in Berwickshire,
nearly of a circular form, having a diameter of 5i
miles ; bounded by Fala and Humbie on the north";
Lauder on the east and south ; and Stow on the
west. It is a pastoral district, situated amongst the
Lammennoor hills, where they border with the
counties of East and Mid-Lothian. The principal
village is that of Oxton, with a population of 220.
On the banks of the streamlets, which united form
the Leader, are about 3,000 acres in tillage, having
a light thin soil on a bed of sandy gravel. The hills
are mostly bleak, and covered with heath. A great
many Pictish or Scottish military encampments are
to be seen in this neighbourhood. They are called
rings by the common people. General Roy has
preserved a plan of a Roman camp here. About a
quarter of a mile west of the kirk is a fine spring
called ' The Well of the Holy Water cleugh.' The
Girthgate, or road by which the monks travelled
from Melrose to Edinburgh, passes through the wes-
tern boundary of the parish ; and on this road, a few
miles due west of the church, are the ruins of an old
building commonly called Restlaw Ha', at which,
tradition says, the monks and pilgrims used to stop
for refreshment. Population, in 1801, 640; in 1831,
841. Houses 148. Assessed property, in 1815,
£5,827. Real rental £5,400 This parish, for-
merly a rectory, with the chapels of Glengelt and
Carfrae annexed, is in the presbytery of Lauder, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Stipend £190 5s.
6d. ; glebe £15. Patron, Sir H. P. H. Campbell,
Baronet. Church built in 1817; sittings 300. —
Schoolmaster's salary £30. The school is attended
by about 100 children.
CHANONRY, a village in the county of Ross,
about a mile from the burgh of Rosemarkie, to which
it was united by a charter granted by James II.,
* The ancient name of this pariah wa* Childer-kirk, or Chil-
dren's kirk, the church having bqen dedicated to the Innoeente*
In old records it is written Jingle-kirk, and is usually prj*
nuunccd so at this day.
CHA
22-3
CHI
Under the common name of Fortrose. It was called
Chanonry, from being the canonry of Ross, and
the residence of the bishop ; it is now the seat of a
presbytery. See Fortrose and Rosemarkie.
CHAPEL-HILL. See Trinity-Gask.
CHAPEL OF GARIOCH, a parish in the dis-
trict of Garioch, Aberdeenshire ; bounded by the
parishes of Rayne and Daviot on the north ; by Da-
viot, Inverury, and Kemnay on the east ; by Kem-
nay and Monymusk on the south; and by Mony-
musk, Oyne, and Rayne on the west. Its greatest
length is 11 miles; greatest breadth 5. The river
Don runs on the southern boundary, dividing it from
Kemnay ; the Urie intersects the northern and broad-
est part of the parish, and divides it from Inverury.
There is a considerable extent of plantations, in
several parts are indications of limestone, but none
has yet been discovered. Near the old castle of
Balquhain, on a small branch of the Urie, is a Druid-
ical temple; a remarkably fine echo is observable
here. About half-a-mile west of the church is a
large upright stone, 10 feet high, 4 broad, and 1 foot
thick, called the Maiden stone. Pennant has given
an engraving of the hieroglyphics cut upon it. Near
the kirk-town, in 1411, was fought the battle of
Harlaw, between Alexander, Earl of Mar, and Don-
ald, Lord of the Isles. See Harlaw. Population,
in 1801, 1,224; in 1831, 1,873; in 1836, 1,928, of
whom 1,793 belonged to the Established church.
Houses 380. Assessed property, in 1815, £4,313.
— This parish is in the synod of Aberdeen, and Ga-
rioch is the seat of a presbytery. It was formerly
called Logie-Durno, but about the beginning of the
1 7th century was united to the parsonage of Fetter-
near, and erected into the present parish. The lands
of Letbinty are annexed quoad sacra to Daviot.
Minister's stipend £217 lis. 8d; glebe £22 10s.
Unappropriated teinds £173 19s. 9d. Patron, Sir R.
D. H. Elphinstone, Baronet. Church built in 1813;
sittings 722 Salary of parish schoolmaster £27,
exclusive of the Dick bequest, with about £20 fees.
There are 3 private schools in the parish.
CHARLESTON, a village in the parish of Dun-
fermline, Fifeshire ; 3J miles south of that place,
and the same distance west of Inverkeithing ; plea-
santly situated on the north coast of the frith of
Forth. It was founded by the Earl of Elgin in
1778, for the accommodation of the workmen at
the extensive lime-works on his estate. It is in
the form of a square, enclosing an area contain-
ing a bleaching-green. It has a tolerable harbour.
The number of vessels belonging to Limekilns and
Charleston, in 1828, was 75, averaging 80 tons bur-
den. Coal is conveyed to the works from the Earl
of Elgin's collieries by a railroad about 6 miles in
length. There are 9 drawkilns here. In 1811 there
were sold at these works 132,563 bolls of lime, 2,400
chalders slacked, 77,200 tons limestone, and 600
tons of ironstone. The present export is about
400,000 bushels of shells, and about 15,000 tons of
raw stone. The working of ironstone has been dis-
continued of late years ; but the export of coals is
immense. Adjoining to Charleston, on the east, is
the populous village of Limekilns : which see.
The Earl of Elgin's mansion of Broomhall is in the
vicinity. Charleston contained, in 1831, 891 in-
habitants.
CHARLESTON OF ABERLOUR. See Aber-
LOtJR
CHARLESTON OF ABOYNE, a pleasant little
town, on the north bank of the Dee, in the parish
of Aboyne, AberdeensMre ; 204 miles west of Aber-
deen, and 26 east of Castleton of Braemar. The
Dee is here crossed by a suspension-bridge. In the
neighbourhood is Aboyne castle, the seat of the
Marquess of Huntly. The surrounding scenery is>
very magnificent. It is a burgh-cf-barony, of which
the Slarquess of Huntly is superior. It has three
fairs in the vear; viz. on the 3d Wednesday in June,
O. S. ; 1st Tuesday in October, O. S. ; and 2d Wed-
nesday in November.
CHARLOTTE (Fort), a small fortification
near the north end of the town of Lerwick, in Shet-
land, said to have been built in the days of Oliver
Cromwell. It commands the entrance to Bressay
sound, and was repaired in 1781.
CHATELHERAULT. See Hamilton.
CHARTERS-HALL, or Chators Hall, a
hamlet in the shire of Stirling, and parish of St.
Ninian's ; near the southern bank of the Bannock,
3£ miles south from Stirling.
CHEVIOT HILLS (The), a range of moun-
tains in the south of Scotland; separating, through-
out a considerable portion of its extent, the kingdoms
of Scotland and England. Some regard this chain
as commencing at Loch Ryan on the west, and ex-
tending, with occasional interruptions, to the head of
the Northumberland Beaumont ; but the Cheviots,
commonly so called, lie on the borders of Roxburgh
and Northumberkind, and may be regarded as com-
mencing, on the east, with Cheviot hill, in N. lat.
55° 29', 19 miles from Sunderland Point. This hill,
the highest in the range, has an altitude of 2,684 feet,
according to Sir Thomas Brisbane.'* From this point,
the Cheviots run in a south-west direction, by Carter
fell, altitude 2,020 feet, to Peel fell, in N. lat. 55°
17' and W. long. 2° 35'. The principal pass in the
range is that known by the name of Carter bar, by
which the road from Jedburgh to Newcastle enters
Ensland.
CHIRNSIDE,t a parish in the county of Ber-
wick, district of the Merse. It is bounded by Cold-
ingham on the north ; by Ayton and Foulden on the
east ; by Hutton and Edrom on the south ; and by
Buncle on the west. The Whitadrier separates it
from Edrom and Hutton parishes ; and a deep ditch
which has been executed for the purpose of draining
the Billymire morass, separates it from Buncle and
Coldingham. The extent of this parish is about 3A
by 3 miles; superficial area, upwards of 5,000 acres.
Assessed property, in 1815, £9,667. Among the
several eminences which project from the Lammer-
moor hUls into the low country of Berwickshire,
Chirnside hill is a remarkable oue. It is distinguished
by its elevation and semicircular aspect to the south,
joined with the great expansion of its summit, and
its gradual declination to the Whitadder. It com-
mands the view of a country, the richest perhaps in
soil — with the exception of the Carses — of any in
Scotland. The landscape is that of a plain, waved
with long ridges, running chiefly in one direction,
and of more than 25 miles extent, from the bay of
Berwick to the Teviotdale hills, on the west; while
directly south, and at almost the same distance, the
famed hills and chaces of Cheviot form a very strik-
ing boundary. " About 60 or 70 years ago," says
the writer of the Old Statistical Account, in 1794,
"this prospect, although striking and noble, was a
naked one, and had little or nothing of the beauty
arising from extensive agriculture, enclosed fields, or
plantations. If some groves or strips of trees marked,
here and there, the seats of the gentry or nobles,
* Another barometric measurement, by Messrs. Adie & GaL
braitli, ffave a,(i'J5 feet. See ' Edinburgh New Philosophical
Journal,' vol. xiv. p. "ci. Mr. C. Siuilh estimated its height at
2.65" feet
+ In discussing the etymology of this name, the writer of the
Old Statistical Ac-count — who derives it from chern, 'a cairn/
with the Saxon adjunct 'title — says that the common people of
the district universally pronounce ell as th. Thus they pro-
nounce Chirnjide. Silitoslde.
CHR
224
CLA
besides these, and a few enclosures joined with
them, hardly any thing hut waste land, or the poor-
est culture, was discoverable. Nature, indeed, wore
a robe that indicated a deep soil. The uncultivated
grounds produced immense tracks of heath, over-
spread with thick furze, or tall whins, and, in some
drier places, with broom ; which, in the spring, and
through the summer, shed the golden gleam of their
flowers, and their fragrance, all around. The eye
of a spectator, on Chirnside hill, now has in prospect
a country, of the extent described, all of it in re-
markable cultivation; the corn-fields and pasture-
lands, almost everywhere, enclosed and divided by
hedges and ditches. Large plantations not only ap-
pear around the gentlemen's seats, but reach, in
several places, to the extremities of their lands ; so
that they seem to be conjoined to each other." The
progress of agriculture has added greatly to this
richness of prospect since the commencement of the
present century. The writer of the Old Statistical
Account justly thought that a rise from 3s. to 12s.
per acre in the rent of some lands within the parish,
and from 5s. to 20s. of others, within a period of 45
years, indicated a vast improvement; but these rents
have within the like space of the last '45 years, been
again trebled, and, in some instances, quadrupled.
Population, in 1801, 1,147; in 1831, 1.248; in 1835,
1/200; of whom 800 belonged to the Established
church, and 380 to other denominations. Houses,
in 1831, 219 The village of Chirnside is 9 miles
north-west of Berwick, and 6 east of Dunse; on the
road from Dunse to Ayton. It consists of two
streets nearly in the form of the letter T ; the longer
of which runs from west to east, about three quar-
ters of a mile. At the junction of the two streets
is an open space, called the Cross-hill, where a fair
is held, chiefly for the sale of sack-cloth and linen
yarn, on the "last Thursday of November. It con-
tains upwards of 600 inhabitants This parish is in
the presbytery of Chirnside, and synod of Merse and
Teviotdale. Stipend £247 8s. 6d. ; glebe £29 8s.
Unappropriated teinds £509 2s. 3d. Patron, Sir
John Hall, Baronet. The church is a very old
building ; sittings 359 There is a Reformed Pres-
byterian congregation. Church built in 1781; sit-
tings 500. Minister's stipend £105, with a manse
and a garden A United Secession church was re-
cently built in the village Schoolmaster's salary
£34 4s. 4,id., with £30 fees. There are 2 private
schools The Rev. Henry Erskine, father of the
well-known founders of the Secession, was the
first minister of this parish after the Revolution.
He died in 1696. In 1586, the Earl of Dunbar and
March, along with Lord Douglas, met the English
warden of the marches, Lord Neville, at BiUymire,
for the purpose of concluding a truce. The fact, as re-
corded in Border history, "gives occasion to observe
why the place of a bog was appointed for such a meet-
ing. It is accounted for, by considering the violentand
particular animosity with which the parties at war in
the borders were inflamed against each other. Their
constant and mutual defiances and incursions kept up
resentment; so that when the wardens were to meet
for negociating a truce, infraction of it among their
armed trains was always to be apprehended. To pre-
veni their coming to blows or scuffles, they were kept
at some distance from each other by a slough or inter-
section of the ground chosen for their meeting, until at
least all the preliminaries were settled between the
wardens. Hence, Hauden-stank and the Bounden-
road are often mentioned as the places of conventions
for treaties ; and yet, even those precautions did not
always insure their peaceable termination."
CHRIST'S KIRK, an ancient parish, nowannexed
to the parish of Kinnethmont, in the shire of Aber-
deen. The church is in ruins, but the burial-ground
is still in use. It is 4 miles east of Clatt. A fair
was formerly kept here on the Green, in the month
of May, and in the night ; from which circumstance,
it was commonly called Sleepy market. Several
years ago, the proprietor, General Hay of Rannes,
changed it from night to day ; but so strong was the
prepossession of the people in favour of the old cus
torn, that rather than comply with the alteration,
they chose to neglect it altogether. The scene of
the celebrated poem of ' Chryst's-Kirk on the Grene,'
commonly ascribed to James I., is supposed by some
antiquaries to have been here.
CHRYSTON, a quoad sacra parish in Lanark-
shire, divided from Cadder by authority of the As-
sembly, in 1834. It is 4£ miles in length by 3J- in
breadth, and contains about 11 square miles. Popu-
lation, in 1836, 1,782, chiefly located in the villages
of Chryston, Mollingburn, Moodiesburn, and Auchin-
loch. Church built in 1780; sittings 564. Stipend
£70, with a manse and garden valued at £10. The
minister of Cadder used to officiate every third Sun-
day here ; but in 1 780 the Chryston end of the par-
ish was made a distinct chapelry. See Caddek.
CILLCHU1MAN. See Boleskine.
CILLIECHRIST, or Kilchrist, an ancient
chapelry in the parish of Urray in Ross, the scene of
one of the bloodiest acts of Highland ferocity and
revenge that history has recorded, commonly known
as the Raid of Cilliechrist. In the early part of the
17th century, a party of Glengarry's men surprised a
numerous body of the Mackenzies, while assembled
at prayer within the walls of Cilliechrist chapel, on
a Sunday morning ; shut them up within the build-
ing, and then set fire to it ; whilst the piper of the
Macdonalds marched round the church, playing a
pibroch, until the shrieks of the miserable victims
were hushed in death. The Macdonalds returned
home in two bands, one of which was overtaken by
the Mackenzies near the burn of Altsay, and nearly-
extirpated; while a still more severe retribution over-
took the other party, who, having fled by Inverness,
were overtaken near Torbreck, and shut up in a pub-
lic-house in which they had been refreshing themselves,
which was set fire to, and the whole party, 37 in
number, perished by the same death they had in-
flicted on the hapless Mackenzies. The solitary and
beautiful burying, ground of the chapelry is still in use.
CLACHNAHARRY, a fishing-village in the par-
ish of Inverness, at the mouth of the Caledonian
canal, about a mile to the west of the town of
Inverness, so called from the vicinity of a rock — in
GaelicC/ach-na-herrt/, that is, 'the Watchman's stone'
. — on which sentinels used to be placed to give notice
to the burghers of Inverness of the approach of any
body of marauders. It has a population of about
300. In 1333, according to Sir Robert Gordon, but
according to Shaw in 1454, and according to Ander-
son in 1378, John Monroe, the tutor of Foulis, in
travelling homeward, on his journey from Edinburgh
to Ross, stopped on a meadow in Stratherdale that
he and his servants might get some repose. While
they were asleep, the owner of the meadow cut off
the tails of their horses. Being resolved to wipe off
this insult, he, immediately on his return home to
Ross, summoned his whole kinsmen and followers,
and, after informing them how he had been used,
craved their aid to revenge the injury. The clan,
of course, complied ; and, having selected 350 of the
best and ablest men among them, he returned to
Stratherdale, which he wasted and spoiled; killed
some of the inhabitants, and carried off their cattle.
In passing by the isle of Moy, on his return home,
Mackintosh, the chief of the clan Chattan, being
urged by some person who bore Monroe a grudge,
CLACKMANNANSHIRE.
225
sent a message to him demanding a share of the
spoil. This was customary among the Highlanders
when a party drove cattle which had been so taken
through a gentleman's land, and the part so exacted
was called a Staoig rathaid, or Staoig creich, that
is, 'a Road collop.' Monroe, not being disposed to
quarrel, offered Mackintosh a reasonable share, but
this he was advised not to accept, and demanded the
half of the booty. Monroe refused to comply with
such an unreasonable demand, and proceeded on his
journey. Mackintosh, determined to enforce compli-
ance, immediately collected his clansmen, and went
in pursuit of Monroe, whom he overtook in the
vicinity of Clach-na- Harry. As soon as Monroe saw
Mackintosh approaching, he sent home live of his
men to Ferrindonald with the cattle, and prepared
for action. But Mackintosh paid dearly for his rapa-
city and rashness, for he and the greater part of his
men were killed in the conflict. Several of the
Monroes also were slain, and John Monroe himself
was left for dead in the field of battle, and might
have died if the predecessor of Lord Lovat had not
carried him to his house in the neighbourhood, where
he was cured of his wounds. One of his hands was
so mutilated, that he lost the use of it the remainder
of his life, on which account he was afterwards called
John Bac-laimh, or Ciotach. The Monroes had
great advantage of the ground by taking up a posi-
tion among rocks, from which they annoyed the
Mackintoshes with their arrows.
CLACKMANNANSHIRE, a county forming
part of a territory anciently denominated Ross.
That tract was bounded on the south by the frith
of Forth ; on the east by the German ocean ; by the
frith of Tay on the north ; and on the north-west
by the Montes Ocellani, or Ochil hills, sweeping in
a north-eastern direction from the neighbourhood of
Stirling to the mouth of the Tay. The principal
part of it was in Fife ; Kinross and Clackmannan
shires were formed out of the north-western part.
A narrow part of Perthshire crosses the hills be-
tween these two small counties, and encroaches
upon this district.* Clackmannanshire is bounded
on the south and west by the frith of Forth, which
separates it from Stirlingshire ; and on the north and
east by Perthshire, excepting at one point, where it
joins the county of Fife. This county contains only
4 parishes. Along the Ochil hills lie Tillicoultry
and Dollar ; Alloa and Clackmannan stretch along
the shores of the Forth. Alva, although belonging
to Stirlingshire, is remarkably cooped up in this
county. Part of the parish of Logie, too, lies in
Clackmannanshire. The only towns are Alloa and
Clackmannan : which see. The county contains
about 30,720 English, or nearly 24,975 Scottish
acres, of which 22,000 are cultivated, 5,000 un-
cultivated, and 3,720 nearly unprofitable. Valued
rent, in 1674, £26,482 Scots. Assessed property,
in 1815, £37,978. Population, in 1801, 10,858; in
1831, 14,729. Inhabited houses, in 1831, 2,391.
Parliamentary constituency, in 1839, 812. It is con-
joined with the shire of Kinross, and the two parishes
of Tulliallan and Culross, in returning a member to
parliament. The sheriff and small debt courts are
held at Alloa. The act 55° Geo. III. c. 109. de-
clares the gaol of Stirling to be the common gaol of
the county of Clackmannan In 1834, there were
5 parochial, and 26 not parochial schools in this
* In th'.s part of Scotland the peculiar local intermixture of
the civil divisions is a sood deal inconvenient. For example:
before a witness residing in any of the detached portions of
Perthshire, situated within a few miles of Kinross or Alios,
can be effectually cited to appear at the small debt courts held
in these towns, the warrant must be transmitted to Perth to
be indorsed by thp sheriff-clerk of Perthshire ; and the same
occurs with regard to the detached portions of Stirlingshire.
county ; superintended by 45 instructors, and at-
tended by about 1,800 children.
The surface rises gradually from the shores of the
frith to the Ochil hills, the highest of which, Ben-
cloch, is in the parish of Tillicoultry ; seeBENCLOCH.
On the banks of the Forth the country is flat and
rich ; and the Ochils afford pasturage for sheep not
to be surpassed in Scotland. The Forth upon the
south, and the Ochil hills upon the north, run in a
direction diverging from each other. To the south-
ward of the mountains lies the beautiful vale ot
Devon, through the middle of which flows the sweetly
winding stream of that name. Betwixt this vale
and the foot of the mountains, the soil is in general
light and of a fine quality, but not very deep, being
of a gravelly bottom. The haughs of the Devon are
rich and fertile ; of a deep soil, but with a mixture
of sand. South from the Devon the country begins
to rise, and the soil is less valuable, as it possesses
much of that clay scarcely penetrable by water
which is so generally found in districts containing
coal and freestone. The country descends gradually
from this to the shores of the Forth, along the whole
of which is a most enchanting level tract, consisting
of rich carse lands of the finest sort of alluvial soil,
being a part of the carse of Stirling. These lands
form the most beautiful part of the foreground in
the extensive view from Stirling castle towards the
east. The climate of this district is various. Snow
seldom lies on the low grounds of Logie, or in the
vale of Devon ; although the case is very different
upon the hills. There is a remarkable spot in the
Ochils, above the house of Alva, so much shaded
that snow sometimes lies on it until the month of
June. The rain that falls is seldom copious, and,
on account of the gravelly bottom in the parishes of
Tillicoultry and Dollar, does little hurt. The cli-
mate of the high lands is considerably colder and
wetter than that of the valleys ; and the moisture
is likewise more severely felt, as the bottom is a
retentive till. In the parishes of Alloa and Clack-
mannan, the climate is pleasant and dry, as well as
warm.
Every modern improvement in agriculture has
been adopted here; And the high state of cultivation
over the whole face of the county is a proof of the
skill and industry of the farmers. Beans are much
cultivated, and are generally planted in drills; some-
times they are sown broad cast, with a mixture of
pease. In this district and its neighbourhood are a
considerable number of small feus held in perpetuity.
About the time of the reformation from popery, it
became, in many parts of the country, a sort of
fashion for great proprietors to grant feus of con-
siderable portions of their estates. Some proprietors
did this to conciliate the attachment of their vassals;
others, from generosity, were willing to deprive their
successors of the power to expel from around them
the faithful adherents to the fortunes of their family ;
while a third class were tempted by a considerable
pecuniary payment which the vassals had found
means to accumulate. The family of Argyle, in par-
ticular, possessed property in this neighbourhood,
and made perpetual grants to their vassals in the
manner alluded to. One feu in the parish of Dollar,
extending to no less than 200 Scottish acres, is held
under this condition, that the feuar or tenant shall
be bound to slaughter all the cattle that may be
wanted for the use of the family of Argyle in their
residence of Castle-Campbell. About the end of
the 16th, or beginning of the 17th century, Lord
Colvil, then proprietor of the estate of Tillicoultry,
divided about four-fifths of the arable land into 40
feus, each of which contained, on an average, about
30 Scotch acres. Most of these tenures were con-
CLA
'226
CLA
verted into feus in the year 1605. What was called
the Mains of Dollar was divided into 8 oxengates,
each of which contained from 30 to 45 Scotch acr s
In the carse, the farms are not large, containing only
about 80 or 100 acres each.
There is no county in Scotland better supplied
with water than Clackmannan. The Devon, from
its source in the parish of Blackford in Perthshire,
to where it falls into the Forth, at the village of
Carnbus, presents a succession of delightful scenery.
After running a course of more than 26 miles, it
mingles its pure and limpid waters with the Forth,
not more than 6 miles in a straight line from its
source. See article The Devon. In the lower
part of the county is another river called the South
Devon, and sometimes the Black Devon, from the
gloomy density of its waters. This stream rises in
the hills of Saline, in the county of Fife, and flowing
westward, in a direction nearly parallel to the Devon,
falls into the Forth in the parish of Clackmaiman
There is a small stream which runs into the Devon,
called Gloomingside burn, in which no trouts have
ever been discovered, although it has fine streams
and pools. Live trouts have been put into it; but
it does not appear that they were capable of living
there There is rather a deficiency of wood in the
county. The ancient forest of Clackmannan has
long since disappeared. About sixty years ago, at-
tempts to cover the hills i to a considerable height
were made, which, in time, may probably succeed,
and prove a great ornament to the country; but,- on
account of its elevated situation, the progress of
vegetation is here remarkably slow. Clackmannan-
shire abounds with coal in/every part; freestone and
granite are also abundant, I In the Ochils have been
wrought at various times .valuable > ores of silver,
lead, copper, cobalt, ironstone, and antimony. Many
rich specimens of septaria have also been found. Coal
is very extensively wrought. Pebbles, agates, and
a few topazes, ,are sometimes discovered amongst the
rubbish which is washed from the hills The prin-
cipal seats in this district are Tullibody, Kennet or
Clackmannan, Shaw-park, and Alloa. The principal
feudal remains are Castle-Campbell, Alloa tower,
and Clackmannan tower In this county the weights
and measures are the same as those of Stirling-
shire.
CLACKMANNAN, a parish in the above county ;
extending in length about 6, and in breadth 4 miles;
bounded on the north by Tillicoultry and Dollar;
on the east by Tulliallan ; on the south by the Forth ;
and on the west by Alloa. The superficial area is
about 7,000 acres; the whole is arable; the greater
part carse ground, and highly productive. Assessed
property, in 1815, .£14,026. It is watered by the
two Deyons. The Black Deyon rose to an immense
height in this quarter during the rains in September
1839, and choked one of the Devon company's pits.
The Devon Iron company have extensive furnaces and
machinery here ; and near to their works the thriving
village of Newtonshaw has been built. Coal and
limestone abound; and there is plenty of freestone
lit for building. Near the town stands the beautiful
modern mansion of Bruce of Kennet. Population
of the town and parish in 1801, 2,961; in 1831,
4,266; in 1836, 4,485; of whom 3,109 belonged to
tlie Established church, and 1,342 were dissenters.
— This parish is in the presbytery of Stirling, and
svnod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Earl of
Zetland. Stipend £2S4 0s. .9(1.; glebe £16. Un-
appropriated teinds £241 16s. 3d. Church built in
1815; sittings 1,250.— A Relief church was built in
the town of Clackmannan in 1790; sittings 450.
Stipend £75 There is also a Dissenting chapel at
Sauchie. — Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4id., with
£11 fees. In 1834 there were 8 private schools
within this parish.
Clackmannan, a town in the above parish,
formerly the county-town; 2 miles east of Alloa,
and 3J west of Kincardine. It is situated on an
eminence gently rising out of a plain to the height
of 190 feet above the level of the Forth. On each
side of the town the ground has a gradual descent;
but, towards the west where the old tower of Clack-
mannan is placed, it is bold and rocky. The sur-
rounding scenery, as beheld from this tower, is ex-
ceedingly picturesque and beautiful. To the west is
seen Alloa, Stirling, St. Ninians, and all the country
as far as Ben Lomond ; on the north the prospect is
bounded by the Ochils ; on the south and east are
the fertile fields of Stirlingshire, and the towns of
Falkirk, Linlithgow, and Kincardine ; while the fore-
ground is filled by the Forth, here a mile in breadth,
and 3 miles farther down expanding into a wide sheet
of water resembling a large inland lake. The tower
or keep — now the property of the Earl of Zetland — .
is all that now remains of the castle or palace of
Robert Bruce, in which that monarch is said to have
resided sometime previous to the battle of Bannock-
burn. Grose has preserved a view of it. It has been
surrounded by a strong wall, and by a fosse on the side
next the town. Till very lately the sword and helmet
of the illustrious Bruce were kept here; they are now
in the possession of the Earl of Elgin, at Brooinhall,
in Fifeshire, to whom the widow of Henry Bruce,
Esq. bequeathed them.* The principal street of the
town is broad and spacious ; but many of the houses
are mean. .In the middle of the street stands a ruin
which was < once the prison and town-house. The
harbour, or Clackmannan po w, is formed by the con-
fluence of the South Devon with the Forth. Its
mean depth of water is 10 feet, at the usual shipping-
place, and 20 feet at the mouth of the harbour. It
was much improved, in 1772, by Sir Lawrence Dun-
das. The town is situated on the estate of Clack-
mannan, and pays feu-duty to the .proprietor of that
estate. It has two fairs annually, in June and Sep-
tember. Population 1,300.
CLASHMORE, a hamlet in the parish of Dor-
noch, in Sutherlandshire. It is the nearest point
to the Miekle ferry, which, before the existence of
Bonar bridge, was the only practicable mode of
reaching Sutherland and Caithness from the south-
The mail-coach here leaves the Skibo road for Dor-
noch. There is a good inn here.
CLATT, a parish in the western .part of the dis-
trict of Garioch, Aberdeenshire.; bounded by the
parish of Kinnethmont on the north; by Leslie on
the east; Tuilynestle on the south; and Auchindore
and Rhynie parishes on the west. It is a rugged
district, and the climate is severe and unfavourable
to agriculture, although the soil is in general good.
Granite and marble occur here. A small stream,
called the Gaudie, rises in the western extremity of
the parish, flows nearly due east, dividing the parish
into two nearly equal parts, and falls into the Urie.
The village of Clatt is 10 miles south of Huntly.
It was erected into a burgh-of-barony by James IV.
in 1501. Population, in 1801, 433; in 1831, 535.
Houses 100. Assessed property, in 1815, £866
This parish — formerly a rectory, and a prebend be-
longing to the chapter of Aberdeen — is in the pres-
bytery of Afford, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron,
the Crown. Stipend £134 16s. 6d.; glebe £9.
Schoolmaster's salary £25 13s. 4d.
CLAYHOLE, a village in Wigtonshire in the
* This venerable ladv died at the affe of 05, in llllo. Her
huyband, who died in Ii7i, whh pnerally considered the chief
nf the Brnces. The estate of Clackmannan had remained ill
the direct line from the days of David 11. till that year.
CLE
227
parish of Leswalt, so near Stranraer as to be a suburb
of that town, and included within its parliamentary
boundary.
CLEISH, a parish in Kinross-shire ; bounded on
the north by Perthshire, and by Fossaway and Kin-
ross parishes ; on the east by the parishes of Port-
moak and Ballingry ; on the south by the parishes
of Beath and Dunfermline ; and on the west by the
parish of Saline. It is of an oblong form, stretching
nearly due west from the low heights on the east
which divide Kinross-shire from Fifeshire; and is 6^
miles in length, by about 1 in average breadth ; and
contains about 7£ square miles. A range of green
but moorish hills, bearing the name of the parish,
and of considerable elevation, divide it from Dun-
fermline. Dumglow, the highest, is 1,215 feet above
the level of the sea, and commands a very extensive
and beautiful prospect ; and three others, called the
Ingans, are respectively 1,060, 1,048, and 1,030.
The higher lands are in pasturage; and the lower,
though of only middle-rate soil, and from 380 to 500
feet above the level of the sea, are in tillage. Springs
and rills are abundant and good, pouring their grate-
ful treasures past the door of nearly every dwelling.
Four lakes, the largest about 1J mile in circum-
ference, enrich the hill-country with a store of
perches, pikes, and eels, and with a few trouts.
The Gairney carries the waters of these lakes to
Loch Leven. It flows along the northern boundary
of the parish for about 2} miles, separating it from
Fossaway and Kinross. Excellent freestone exists
in great plenty ; and affords material for the best
houses and bridges in Kinross-shire and its coter-
minous districts. Limestone also is found; but
except at Scarhill, on the estate of Cleish, it lies at
so great a depth as not to be an object of importance.
Coal was formerly wrought to a considerable extent
on the estate of Blair- Adam; but for many years
past has been neglected. On the top of Dumglow^
and of other hills, are traces of ancient forts or
camps, which are supposed to have been part of a
chain of posts for defending the Roman conquests ;
and near these fortifications have been found several
urns containing human bones and pieces of charcoal.
A short distance from the parish-church stands a
rock called ' The Lecture stane,' which was used, in
the days of popery, as a support for the coffin during
the reading of the burial-service at funerals. At the
east end of the parish, a stone, inserted in a bridge,
bears an inscription indicating the road beneath it
to have been that by which Queen Mary tied from
Lochleven castle. Formerly, on what is now the
farm-stead of Gairney-bridge, stood the school-house
in which Michael Bruce, the Kirke 'White of Scot-
land, taught a school; and within a few yards of the
same spot stood the public-house in which the fathers
of the Secession held their first meeting. The great
road from Queensferry to Perth passes through nearly
the centre of the parish, in a direction from south to
north. Population, in 1801, 625; in 1831, 681.
Houses 138. Assessed property, in 1815, .£3,063.
— This parish is in the presbytery of Dunfermline,
and synod of Fife. Patron, Young of Cleish. Sti-
pend ±'156 16s. 4d.; glebe £14. Schoolmaster's
salary £34 4s. 4d. The church was built in 1832,
and is remarkably neat, and in a beautiful situation,
embosomed in plantations at the base of the southern
hills, and looking down over sylvan slopes upon the
vale of Kinross.
CLIFTON, a village in Breadalbane, near Tyn-
drum. There is a lead mine here, on the top of a
hill, which was wrought several years ago but after-
wards abandoned. The workings have, however,
been subsequently renewed by direction of the Mar-
quess of Breadalbane, and, ii> 1830, above 100 men
CLO
, . . • .
were engaged in the works here, under the guidance
of a few German miners.
CLIFTON, a decayed village, formerly a elmpelry.
in the parish of Morebattle in Roxburghshire; 10
miles south-east of Kelso. Clifton hill is a beautiful
eminence on the east side of the Beaumont.
CL1SHEIM, a mountain in the northern division
of the isle of Harris, the loftiest in the Outer He-
brides. Dr. Macculloch calls it Clisseval, and esti-
mates its height at 2,700 feet, Which is certainly too
low, if his estimate of the altitude of Langa, in its
neighbourhood, at 2,407 feet, be correct ; for Clish-
eim is, apparently at least, 800 feet higher.
CLOCH, or Clough Poikt, a point of land on
the south shore of the frith of Clyde, in the county
of Renfrew, about 5 miles below the port of Green-
ock ; in N. lat. 55° 58', and W. long. 4° 52'. There
is a light-house here. The light exhibited is white
and stationary. It is elevated 76 feet above high
water, and seen at the distance of 12 miles in clear
weather. It was erected in 1797.
CLOSEBURN,* a parish in Nithsdale, Dumfries-
shire; 10 miles in extreme length, and nearly 8 in
breadth; bounded on the north by the parishes of
Morton and Crawford in Lanarkshire ; on the east
by Kirkpatrick-juxta and Kirkmichael ; oil the south
by Kirkmahoe; and on the west by Keir and Mor-
ton. It contains 20, 745^ Scots acres according to
Webster's gazetteer; but, according to the Old Sta-
tistical Account, 2S.000 acres, 1 ,900 of which were
under cultivation in 1793; and according to the
New Statistical Account 23,006 acres in pasture ;
5,683 in tillage; and 1,500 under plantation. As-
sessed property, in 1815, £9,220. The rental of
the parish has nearly quadrupled since the end of
last century. The river Nith forms the western
boundary, along which the soil is a tine rich loam ;
to the eastward the ground rises a little, and the
soil becomes light, dry, and sandy, until it merges
into extensive moors, unfit for tillage but affording
good pasture for sheep. The principal hills are those
of Queensberry, Carrick, and Auchinleck. The first
of these rises 2,140 feet above the level of the sea.
See Queensberky. — Besides the Nith, the Crichup.
a small stream noted for its romantic beauties, runs
through this parish. The Crichup takes its rise in
a moss near the northern extremity of the parish.
Not far from its source, it forms a very beautiful
cascade, called 'theGray Mare's tail,' by falling o\ or
a precipice of about 80 or GO feet in height, and
almost perpendicular. About half-a-mile below this,
the water has, in the' course of ages, hollowed out
to itself a strait passage through a mass of red free-
stone, forming a peenbarly romantic linn. This
linn, from top to bottom, is upwards of 100 feet;
and though 20 deep, it is yet so strait at the top,
that one might easily leap across it, were it not for
tile tremendous prospect below, and the noise of the
water running its dark course, and by its deep nmr-
murings affrighting the imagination. " Liaccessible
in a great measure to real beings, this linn was con-
sidered as the habitation of imaginary Ones ; and at
the entrance into it, there was a curious cell or cave,
called the Elf's kirk, where, according to the super-
stition of the times, the imaginary inhabitants of the
linn were supposed to hold their meetings. This
cave proving a good freestone-quarry, has lately
been. demolished, for the purpose of building houses,
and from being the abode of elves, has been con-
verted into habitations for men. In the times of
* " The original name of tin- parish was Kilnsburn, or, as it
is tpelled in a very old deed, Kelnsbern, from Ce'l<i OsMtrni.
It WHS at fiVit but of small extent, and tlie ellurrli seems to
have hern intended chiefly for the arrominmlation of the family
ul I'looL'liiu u and it; dependents."— 0/rf SI tttstical Account.
CLO
228
CLU
persecution, the religious flying from their persecu-
tors, found an excellent hiding-place in Crichup linn ;
and there is a seat, in form of a chair, cut out by
nature in the rock, which having been the retreat of
a shoemaker in those times, has ever since borne the
name of * the Sutor's seat.' Nothing can be more
striking than the appearance of this linn from its
bottom. The darkness of the place, upon which the
sun never shines, — the ragged rocks, rising over one's
head, and seeming to meet at the top, with here and
there a blasted tree, bursting from the crevices, —
the rumbling of the water falling from rock to rock,
and forming deep pools, — -together with some degree
of danger to the spectator, whilst he surveys the
striking objects that present themselves to his view,
■ — all naturally tend to work upon the imagination.
Hence many fabulous stories are told, and perhaps
were once believed, concerning this curious linn."
[Old Statistical Account, vol. xiii. p. 245.] Sir
Walter Scott has taken this place for the prototype
of the haunts of Balfour of fiurley while under hid-
ing.—The limeworks of Closeburn, begun by Sir
James Kilpatrick, in 1772, and prosecuted with vigour
by the present proprietors, are extensive, and have
proved most beneficial to the district, although the
nearest coal-pits are at Sanquhar, 14 miles distant.
The castle of Closeburn, formerly belonging to the
family of Kirkpatrick, but which passed from them
in 1783, when the estate was purchased by Mr.
Menteath, is an ancient building, surrounded by a
fosse which formerly communicated with a small
lake now drained. This very ancient fortalice is a
square tower about 50 feet high, consisting of a
ground-floor, and three series of vaulted apartments.
It is still inhabited. Grose has given a drawing of
it. Near this castle is a mineral well which has
been of service in scrofulous cases. It is impreg-
nated with sulphur. Upon the farm of Kirkpatrick
were the remains of an old chapel and burying-
ground. There is also near the village of Closeburn
a chalybeate spring of considerable strength. The vil-
lage of Closeburn is 1\> miles south-east of Thornhill.
Closeburn hall is a fine modern building in the Grecian
style. Population, in 1801, 1,679; m 1831, 1,680.
Houses, in 1831, 392. — This parish, with which that
of Dalgarno was incorporated in 1697, is in the pres-
bytery of Penpont, and synod of Dumfries. Patron,
Sir C. Menteath, Baronet. Stipend £234 19s. 3d. ;
glebe .£19. There are 5 schools, though no pro-
perly parochial school, in this parish. The principal
school of the parish is that which, in honour of its
founder, is called the school of Wallacehall. John
Wallace, merchant in Glasgow, a native of Close-
burn, in the year 1723, mortified £1,600 for the
purpose of erecting this school. The presbytery of
Penpont were appointed trustees for the manage-
ment of the fund, judging of the qualifications of the
teachers, and watching over the interests of the
school ; but in the management the laird of Close-
burn was to be consulted. Five patrons were ap-
pointed to nominate the rector of the school, viz.
John Wallace of Elderslie, Thomas Wallace of Cairn-
hill, and Michael Wallace, merchant in Glasgow,
three brothers, the minister of Closeburn, and the
town-clerk of Glasgow, for the time being. In the
election of a rector, it is recommended to the patrons
to give a preference to one of the name of Wallace,
if equally qualified. Of the money mortified by Mr.
Wallace, £200 was laid out in building a school-
house and dwelling-house for the rector, and in pur-
chasing 5 acres of ground contiguous to the school,
for the rector's use; £1,145 was laid out in pur-
chasing lands at some distance ; and the remainder
was applied towards enclosing the land and enlarging
the rector's house. The branches of education which
the deed of mortification requires to be taught at
this school are, English, writing, arithmetic, book-
keeping, Latin and Greek. But besides these, French,
geography, and mathematics are also taught. The
rector is likewise obliged to pay £5 a-year to a per-
son named by the minister, to teach English in a
remote part of the parish. These schools are free
to the children of the parish This parish is cele-
brated in the annals of curling.
CLOVA, an ancient parish, now anuexed to the
parish of Cortachy in Forfarshire. The church was
rebuilt in 1730, and is about 9 miles distant from
the church of Cortachy. The inhabited part of
Clova is about 4 miles in length, and its greatest
breadth is little more than a mile. It is surrounded
on three sides by the Binchinnan branch of the
Grampian mountains, which are here of great height,
and exhibit a scene of much beauty and grandeur,
especially when contrasted with the delightful valley
at their base. Loch Brandy is about 1-J mile in cir-
! cumference, and abounds with pike and trout. On
a little eminence near the church are the remains of
an ancient castle, formerly the residence of a family
of the name of Ogilvy. See Cortachy.
CLUANY (Loch), a featureless sheet of water
in Inverness-shire, on the road from Invermoriston
to Kyle-Rhee, about 25 miles from the former
place, and 23 from the latter. There is a small
inn here.
CLUDEN, a small village in the parish of Holy-
wood, Dumfries-shire, 3 miles from Dumfries. There
are large flour-mills here.
CLUDEN (The), or Clouden, a river in Dum-
fries-shire, formed by the confluence of the Cairn
and Glenesland, which, after a south-east course of
nearly 14 miles, falls into the Kith, a little below
the old college of Lincluden : which see. It
abounds with trout and salmon, especially in the
upper parts of the stream ; herlings, and a few pike,
are also found in it.
CLUNIE,* a parish in the district of Stormont,
Perthshire ; bounded on the north by Kirkmichael ;
on the east by Blairgowrie and Kinloch; on the
south-east by Lethendy and Caputh; and on the
west and north-west by Caputh and Dunkeld. It
extends in- length about 9 miles from the summit of
a low range of the Grampians, towards the valley of
Strathmore ; its breadth nowhere exceeds 4 miles.
Its superficial area is estimated at 8,000 acres, of
which 2,555 were under cultivation in 1791. As-
sessed property, in 1815, £2,414. The surface is
mountainous; the lower parts being about 150,
while the highest are not less than 1,800 feet above
the level of the sea.f The soil is various ; in the
* Clunie, which has time immemorial been the name of this
parish, is the modern orthography of the old Celtic word
Clmrine, which' signifies 'a Green pasture between Woods.1
Such a level green pasture, called the Meadow, lies a little lo
the Dorth of the church ; on the north side of this plain there
is still natural wood growing, and on the south side we find
vestiges of old trees in a small moss which makes a part of the
glebe Old Statistical Account.
f The following table of the weather, as registered at Clu-
nie manse from 1825 to 1 832, was published, with some otber
Meteorological tables, in the * Edinburgh New Philosophical
Journal,1 vol. xiv. p. .'109 :—
Years. Fair Days. Foul Days. Sunshine Days.
219 146 20ri
222 143 226
172 ltd 189
192 174 I Git
1!« 109 172
ItiC 199 135
15U 212 129
Itil 205 144
Yearly 1 185} 180j 170J
average S
N. B.— The Fair days include the Sunshine days; and by the
Foul days is meant, that, in each, more or less rain, hail, or
snow fell.
I8i5
I Sir)
1827
1 828
IS29
iaso
1831
1832
CLU
•229
CLU
valleys, however, it is good, and yields tolerable
crops. Benachally is the highest mountain. See
Benachally. The Craig of Clunie is a trap-rock,
about 600 feet in altitude There are no rivers in
this parish, but some considerable burns or brooks,
as the Lornty, the Droothy, the Buckny, and the
Lunan. The Lornty flows from the loch of Bena-
chally ; runs about 6 miles east-south-east through
the hilly parts of the parishes of Clunie, Kinloch,
and Blairgowrie; and falls into the river Ericht above
the Caith, a curious fall of the river, a little above
the village of Blairgowrie The burn of Droothy
rises from the moss of Benachally, separates the ba-
rony of Laighwood from the forest of Clunie and
the barony of Forneth, and, after a rapid course of
about 3 miles to the south-east, empties itself into
the Lunan. — The Buckny takes its rise from Loeh-
na-chat, and falling to the south-east between the
mountains of Benachally and Deuchara, forms the
Doo loch ; thence, increased by the springs of the
Doo loch, it thunders down a deep, narrow, rocky
den, covered with wild wood, called the Ben of
Richip, and separating the pvrishes of Caputh and
Clunie, enters the latter in the park of Laighwood,
where it unites with the Lunan. — The Lunan is by
far the most considerable stream in the parish. Col-
lected from different source? in the Grampians, a
little to the north of Dunkeld, it proceeds eastward,
and forms the lochs of Craiglash, of Lows, of But-
terstone, of Clunie, and of Drumelly. From this
last, it directs its course to the south-east, and
passing by the Roman encampment near Meiklour,
it joins the river Isla, at a point about 2 miles
north-east of the junction of the Isla and the Tay.
The course of the Lunan is about 12 miles, and
somewhat resembles a bended bow. The trouts of
the Lunan are excellent ; in point of size, form, and
flavour, they are much superior to those of the hill-
brooks described above : this is doubtless owing to
its waters being deeper, warmer, and better shel-
tered ; and to its passing over rich, clayey, and
marly bottoms. It is difficult, however, to angle
upon the Lunan in many places, particularly above
the loch of Clunie, on account of the natural wood
overhanging the stream.* The district is well-
adapted to the researches of the botanist, as in it
many rare plants are to be found. The natural for-
ests are extensive. There are two mineral springs,
one at Milton of Clunie, and the other a little to the
east of Bogmile, — valued for their antiscorbutic quali-
ties. The minerals already known are quartz, whin-
stone, granite, freestone, and barytes ; limestone is
found in one place, but the want of fuel prevents its
being quarried. There is a vein of fine blue slate
interspersed with large quantities of copper pyrites ;
and a deep peat-moss on the very summit of Bena-
chally There are vestiges of 5 religious houses,
and of several military stations and fortified places,
and a number of cairns and tumuli, which are said
to mark the places where the Romans under Agri-
cola and the Caledonians engaged, as described by
Tacitus Forneth, on the north-west side of the
loch of Clunie, and Gourdie, about 1+ mile south-
east of Clunie castle, are elegant seats. The rich
and well-cultivated estate of Delvin, with its mag-
nificent mansion, adds much to the beauty of this
parish. Population, in 1801, 913; in 1831, 944.
* At some of the falls of the Lunan are placed arks, nr per-
forated chests, for the purpose of catching eels. These fish run
down from loeh to loch in vast numbers, — especially with a
westerly wind, io the dark nights of October. — and are then
takeo by hundreds in these arks. The eels are best in that
season of the year, and their skins are then valuable to the
farmer for making whangs or bindings to his fltils. Some of
the common people here, on spraining an ankle or a wrist, ap-
ply to the wound the skin at an eel, to which they ascribe a
peculiar virtue. — Old Statistical Account,
Houses 184 This parisn, formerly a vicarage, and
to which certain portions of Caputh parish were
annexed, quoad sacra, in 1728, is in the presbytery of
Dunkeld, and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patrons,
the Duke of Athole and the Earl of Airlie. Stipend
£1 73 0s. 2d. ; glebe £6.— Schoolmaster's salary £34
12s. 4|d., with about £12 fees.
CLUXIE (Loch), a lake in the above parish,
about 4 miles south-east of the small loch on the
northern side of Benachally, and 700 feet lower
in elevation. It is 2J miles in circumference, and
84 feet in depth. About 200 yards from its west>
ern shore is a beautiful little island on which is an
old castle, formerly the residence of the Earls of
Airlie, built by George Brown, Bishop of Dunkeld,
in the 16th century. The walls are 9 feet thick;
and around the verge of this island are sprinkled a
few old ash-trees and planes, which have withstood the
storms of some hundred years, yet still continue to
vegetate. These trees have something venerably
grotesque in their appearance. The trunk of some
of the planes separates and unites again ; as do also
some of the larger branches. The trees in some
places diverge considerably from the land, leaning
across the wrater, over "which their aged arms em-
brace ; and the roots of the planes are incorporated
with those of the ashes, as if they were determined
to stand and fall together. In the sultry heats of
summer these trees throw a cool refreshing umbrage
over the island. The island itself is a plain carpet
of green, interspersed with a few flowering shrubs,
where the fairies, in the times of superstition, were
thought to hold their moonlight assemblies. In the
loch there is plenty of pike, perch, trout, and eel.
The eels caught here are of a considerable size. In
bright sunny days, when they come out near the
shore, and are distinctly seen at the bottom of the
shallow water, they are sometimes struck with the
eel-spear. The trouts grow from 4 lbs. to 12 lbs.
weight, but are seldom taken except on the set
line, or in the net. The perches are numerous, but
generally small ; they are caught in the usual man-
ner with the rod. They take very well here in
June, July, and August. The pike-fishing begins
about the end of March. Pikes have been killed in
this loch of from 12 to 24, or even 30 tbs. weight;
but the ordinary size is from 2 lbs. to 6 lbs. Clunie
castle contends with that of Elliock, in Dumfries-
shire, for the honour of having given birth to the
calebrated James Crichton, better known by the
epithet of ' The Admirable,' who died in 1681. The
island itself is mostly artificial, if not altogether so.
It must have been formed with great labour, and in
some very distant period, as there is neither record
nor tradition with respect to its formation. In pa-
pers dated 360 years ago, it is termed ' The Island
of the loch of Clunie.' The people in the neigh-
bourhood affirm that it was once joined on the south-
east side to the mainland ; but this is not at all pro-
bable, as the land there lies at a very considerable
distance, with deep water intervening. Its surface
is a circular plain, of about half-an-acre, raised a few
feet above the ordinary level of the loch, and sur-
rounded with a strong barrier of stones thrown
carelessly together, and sloping into deep water all
around, like the frustum of a cone. That this
island has been formed principally by human art
seems demonstrable from this, that the ground of
which it is composed is evidently factitious ; and in
digging to the depth of 7 feet, near the centre ot
the island, nothing like a natural stratum of earth
appeared. The foundation of the castle-wall is
several feet below the surface of the water, and in
all likelihood rests on piles of oak. On the west-
ern shore of the loch stands the old castle-hill, — a
CLU
230
CLY
large green mound, partly natural and partly artifi-
cial, On the top of which are the ruins of a very
old building. "Some aged persons still alive re-
- member to have seema small aperture, now invisible,
at the edge of one of the fragments of the ruins,
. where, if .a stone, was thrown in, it was heard for
some time, .as. if rolling down a stair-case. From
this it seems probable, that were a section of the
hill to be made,. some curious discoveries might be
the consequence. The castle-hill is of an elliptical
form, extending in length from north to south about
190 yards at its base, and rising about 50 feet above
the level of the loch, . A green terrace surrounds
the hill ; and on the north side one terrace rises
above, another. The area of the summit approaches
to an elliptical plain, a little inclined towards the
east ; of this plain, the longitudinal diameter, from
north to south, is about 90 yards, and the transverse
abo.ut 40. The old' castle has stood on the south
end of the summit, commanding a distinct view of
the neighbourhood, so as not to have been easily
taken by surprise. Some vestiges of it still remain;
but neither; its form nor dimensions can be traced
,withany degree of precision. The principal fortifi-
cations seem to have run along the hind side, and
the loch and the declivity of the hill appear to have
defended it on the east, where it is probable there
has been an easy communication with the island by
means of, boats; so that, in case of the castle being
taken, the island might afford a refuge to the be-
sieged. Concerning this piece of antiquity no writ-
ten record can be found. According to the tradi-
tion of the neighbourhood, it was a summer-palace
or hunting-seat of Kenneth Macalpin, who conquered
the Picts, and united the Scottish and Pictish king-
doms ; and if we suppose this tradition to be well-
founded, it is not unlikely that it was he who first
formed the island in the loch, as a place of retreat
in time of danger." - [Old Statistical Account, vol.
ix. pp. 26,3 — 266.]
CLUNIE (The), or Ci.uanadh, a stream in the
parish of Crathje, Aberdeenshire, which, rising in
several head-streams in the mountains which sepa-
rate Braemar from Perthshire, flows northwards
tlnoiigh Glen Clunie, and falls into the Dee at
Castleton of Braemar. About 4 miles above its
confluence with the Dee, it receives its chief tribu-
tary, Calater or Calader burn, flowing from Loch
Calater.
CLFNY, a parish in the district of Kincardine
O'Neil, Aberdeenshire ; boimded on the north by
Monymusk and Keranay parishes; on the east by
Skene; on the south by Echt, Midmar, and Kincar-
dine O'Neil ; and on the west by Kincardine O'Neil
and Tough. It is of very irregular outline, and
contains about 7,000 acres, of which four-fifths are
under cultivation, and is intersected by the burn of
Torr, flowing northwards to the Don. Assessed
property, in 1815, £1,741. The principal residences
in this parish areCluny castle, a large edifice founded
in the 15th century by Sir Alexander Gordon, and
Castle-Fraser, an edifice of the same date. Popu-
lation, in 1801, 821; in 1831, 959. Houses 181.
• — This parish is in the presbytery of Kincardine
O'Neil, and synod of Aberdeen. Patrons, the
Crown, and Gordon of Cluny, and Fraser of Castle-
Fraser, alternately. Stipend £173 16s. 7d. ; glebe
.£20. Schoolmaster's salary £25 13s. 4d., with
£14 fees.
CLUNY, a hamlet in the parish of Laggan, and
shire of Inverness, 8£ miles south of Pittmain.
Here is the seat of the chief of the Macphersons. .
CI YDE (The), a noble river traversing a large
part of the western lowlands of Scotland, the third
Scottish stream in point of magnitude, the first in
commercial importance, and not the least in natural
beauty. Popular opinion represents it as rising in
the same hill whence flow the Tweed and the An-
nan, and indulges the fancy of the three rivers di-
verging away in nearly regular radii over the face ol
the lowlands. The Clyde, however — like most large
streams whose first waters are gathered amidst the
inequalities of a rolling mountain region — may trulv
be said to have numerous sources. A range of
mountains, consisting of the Lowthers, the Lead-
hills, Queensberry hill, and the heights which con-
nect the last with Hart-Fell, bends elliptically round
the southern part of Lanarkshire, and divides it from
Dumfries-shire. At short intervals, round all the
southern part of this range, arise rills and streamlets
which flow onward to various meeting-points to form
the Clyde, and almost each of which might advance
pretensions to be the parent-river. The original
Clyde, of popular opinion and poetic allusion, rises
at an elevation of 1,400 feet above sea-level, be-
tween four hills, nearly 2 miles south-east of Rodger-
Law, and about 4 or 5 miles east of the village
of Elvanfoot. But this streamlet is both tiny in
bulk, and of brief length, compared to the Daer or
Dear, with which, after a course of only 4 miles
westward, it mingles its waters, — or to the Powtrail
which, 1^ mile to the south, had previously flowed
into the Daer. Before the confluence of the reputed
Clyde and the Daer, the latter flows over a distance
of 14 or 15 miles, taking its rise on the borders of
the parish of Closeburn in Dumfries-shire, and flow-
ing generally in a direction due north ; while the
Powtrail, previous to its confluence with the Daer,
traverses a distance of about 9 miles, taking its rise
on the border of the parish of Durrisdeer, and flowing
toward the east of north. The mountain-district
which pours forth these streams and their numer-
ous little tributaries, is lofty, raising various of its
summits nearly or quite 3,000 feet above the level
of the sea, and nowhere, till the accumulated wa-
ters have become a considerable river, shaking off a
dress of highland wildness, or wearing a smile of
pastoral beauty. All the early waters of the Clyde,
or the incipient rivulets which roll themselves toge-
ther to form it into a river, are, in consequence,
simple mountain-streams,^ — noisy, rapid, and marked
occasionally with a dash of the romantic. See article
Crawford.
At Elvanfoot the Clyde, having first flowed due
west, and afterwards bent round on its confluence
with the Daer, and flowed nearly northward, receives
the waters of the Elvan, — a stream 8 or 9 miles
in length, which rises on the Green-Lowther moun-
tain on the western verge of the parish of Crawford,
and flows, during about half its course, in a norther-
ly direction, and afterwards sweeps round toward
east, preserving throughout the mid and noisy cha-
racter of its kindred streams. After passing Elvan-
foot, the Clyde makes a semi-circular sweep east-
-\vard, rolling past the base of several picturesque
hills, washing the walls of the sequestered village
and ancient little church of Crawford, receiving from
the east the tribute of Camps water, and resuming,
at the distance of about 4i miles, its general north-
erly direction. It now passes a somewhat roman-
tically situated Roman camp, and, nearly a mile on-
ward, is joined from the west by Glengomiar water,
which here, — as the Clyde itself afterwards does for
about li mile, — separates the parishes of Crawford
and Crawfordjohn. For a brief way after its re-
ception of the Glengonnar, the Clyde flows between
somewhat sylvan banks, — a scene so different from
the rugged and savage character of the mountain-
region around, as to refresh the eye, and to invite
the tourist to pause; but it soon pours down among
CLYDE.
231
1he hollows of heathy uplands, only a degree less
dreary than the mountain-land of its origin. Over a
distance of lh mile, it now separates the parishes of
Crawfordjohn and Lamington, and then bends away
in a direction to the east of north, and pursues it dur-
ing a course of 1 1 miles. While following this course,
it divides the parishes of WBstbri and Roberton, and
of Symington on the north, from those of Lamington
and Culter on the south; and receives from the
west, the waters of Roberton burn and Garf water,
and from the east, those of Wandel burn, Heart-
side burn, Lamington burn, and Culter water. At
its confluence with Roberton burn, it passes the
village of Roberton ; and from this point onward till
it approaches its magnificent falls, it shapes its course
by the configuration of the far-idewing range of the
T into mountains, and receives from the west and
south the rills and streams which they pour down
upon the plains. Before it leaves Culter parish, it
revels for some way through fine lands and pleas-
ing pastoral scenes, and begins to assume its cha-
racteristic garb of beautiful and picturesque at-
traction. At a point about 2 miles west from Big-
gar, it sweeps somewhat suddenly round from its
north-east course, and over a distance of about 4^
miles, flows toward the west, and then, during 5}
miles more — where it forms a confluence with Med-
win water — flows toward the west of north. Dur-
ing the early part of this course, it is sweeping
round the eastern spurs of the Tinto mountains,
and is slow and almost stagnant in its progress, [see
article Biggar] passing through a morass where,
according to a tradition firmly believed by many of
the peasantry, Sir Michael Scott, in order to find em-
ployment for three familiar spirits wh'o constantly ha-
rassed him, except when he enslaved them with labour,
endeavoured to change its course, and draw it into the
Tweed. From the point of its leaving Culter parish,
till it mixes with the Medwin, it touches an angle of
Biggar parish on the east ; divides the parishes of Co-
vington and Pettinain on the west from that of
Libberton on the east ; and receives various tiny
tributaries, the chief of which is Glade burn. Here
its basin, though generally upland and heathy, pre-
sents some pleasing pictures to the eye, and em-
bosoms some luxuriant haughs. Coming sluggishly
into collision with the Medwin, it is pushed suddenly
round from the direction which it had for some time
been pursuing, and, over a distance of about 9 miles,
flows, with the exception of some brief windings, in
a south-westerly direction, — separating the parishes
of Pettinain and Carmichael on the south from those
of Carstairs and Lanark on the north, and pouring its
liquid opulence, or its desolating floods, for the most
part, through fine and valuable holm-lands, — at one
time impoverishing the farmer, by bursting its banks
and washing away soil and produce, and at another
enriching him by making luxuriant deposits of slimy-
mud. In this section of its progress, particularly
where it bounds the parish of Carstairs, it has left
marked traces of having frequently, at periods more
or less remote, changed its channel. One of its de-
vious beds, of somewhat ancient date, has the ap-
pearance of an annular lake, or watery garland,
circling to the south on the property of Westbank ;
and is, in some places, so matted over with reeds and
marshy grass as to have become a sward, capable —
when the mower is shod with flat-boards after the
fashion of the snow-shoes of Greenland — of being
shaven with the scythe ; while, in other places, it
continues deep and pellucid, forming pools for the
pike, and offering a home to the wild-duck. Leaving
Carstairs, and touching the parish of Lanark, it first
Hows sluggishly through a tract of holm-land ; then :
sweeps, with accelerated motion, over an uneven j
and rocky channel, and, after again subsiding info
quietness, advances, amid scenery of growing interest,
to its point of junction with Douglas water. From
Roberton to this point, the Clyde traverses a dis-
tance of at least 20 miles ; yet it moves so circuit-
ously that these two points are geographically asun-
der not more than 7-i miles. Douglas water comes
down upon it from the south, nearly doubles its
bulk, gives increased rapidity to its motion, and sud-
denly turns it from a southerly direction which it
had for about H mile been assuming, away round to
the north-west ; and this new direction the Clyde,
with partial and unimportant exceptions, maintains
till, having expanded into an estuary, it debouches,
about 1^ mile past Greenock, suddenly to the south.
See article Douglas.
Over a distance of "k miles after receiving the
Douglas, it passes along the margin of the parish of
Lanark, separating it from the parish of Lesmaha-
gow, and presenting, in its celebrated falls and the
scenery of its banks and basin, views of beauty and
picturesqueness and grandeur which arouse the sen-
sibilities of even the laggard in sentiment. '' The
Clyde," savs Mr. Robert Chambers, in his 'Picture
of Scotland,' [Edn. 1840, pp. 194, 195,] "is here a
large and beautiful river. Before arriving at the up-
permost fall, about two miles and a half from Lanark,
it flows for several miles through a level tract of
country with slow and scarcely perceptible motion.
It then enters by the Bonnington fall a deep chasm,
from which it only escapes about two miles below,
after having been forced over two other cascades
Four or five miles of an ordinary channel bring it to
the last fall, that of Stonebyres, below which it en-
ters that series of fine alluvial plains formerly alluded
to, which terminate at Bothwell bridge. The way
to the upper falls from Lanark is through the beauti-
ful grounds of Bonnington, which, by the liberality
of the proprietor, are open to the public at all times
except on Sunday. At the uppermost fall, called the
Bonnington linn or fall, the river pours, in a divided
stream, over a ledge of rocks 30 feet in height.
It is considered the least beautiful of the falls, on ac-
count of its smaller height, and the bareness of the
southern bank above it. Still, from the point at
which it first bursts upon the view, it is very im-
posing ; and the present proprietor, Lady Mary Ross,
by means of a bridge thrown across the north branch
of the stream immediately above the precipice, and
points of observation happily selected, has secured
some charming coups d'wii to the admirers of nature.
The channel of the river, for about half a mile below
this fall, is formed of a range of perpendicular and
equidistant rocks on either side, which are from 70
to 100 feet high, and which Mr. Pennant has
well characterised as stupendous natural masonry
At Corehouse, the river encounters another fall,
84 feet in height, denominated Corra linn, generally
allowed to be the finest of the whole. Until a few
years ago, this splendid cascade could only be seen
from above. But fine although it must ever be,
whencesoever contemplated, all former views of it
were greatly inferior to one which Lady Mary Ross
has opened up. A flight of steps has been formed
along the face of the opposite rock. By this the tra-
veller descends into a deep and capacious amphi-
theatre, where he finds himself exactly in front and
on a level with the bottom of the fall. The foaming
waters, as they are projected in a double leap over
the precipice, the black and weltering pool below,
the magnificent range of dark perpendicular rocks
120 feet in height, which sweeps round him on the
left, the romantic banks on the opposite side, the
river calmly pursuing its onward course, and the rich
garniture of wood with which the whole is dressed,
232
CLYDE.
combine to form a spectacle with which the most
celebrated cataracts in Switzerland and Sweden will
scarcely stand a comparison. On a rock above Corra
linn, on the south side of the river, is perched the
ruined castle of Corehouse, formerly the property of
an old race named Bannatyne. That any one should
have thought it necessary, for the sake of security,
to live in such a situation, shaken by the dash of the
cascade, and damped by its spray, presents a striking-
idea of the circumstances of our forefathers. In a
later age, the old castle seems to have been deserted
for a comparatively large house, situated at a little
distance from the edge of the precipice, which also
has been of late years allowed to go into ruin. The
present mansion-house is a very handsome one, in
the old English style, the property of Mr. Cranstoun
of Corehouse, [lately] a judge of the Court of Session.
■ — -About i of a mile farther down, the river encoun-
ters a third but smaller cascade, called Dnndaf linn,
where the banks assume a less bold character. After a
quiet and gentle run of 3 or 4 miles, the river pours
over a precipice 80 feet in height, constituting the
Stonebyres fall, so named from the adjacent estate
of Stonebyres belonging to the ancient family of
Vere. This fall bears a general resemblance to that of
Corra, but is generally allowed to be of a less strik-
ing character. According to the minister of Lanark,
in the New Statistical Account of Lanark, * The
breadth and depth of the river vary at different
places. At the broadest, a stone may be thrown
across ; and there is a spot between the Bonnington
and Corra falls, where the whole volume of its wa-
ters is so confined between two rocks that an ad-
' venturous leaper has been known to clear it at a
bound. There are fords which children can wade
across, and pools which have never been fathomed.'"
We must here allow ourselves the pleasure of quot-
ing Dr. Bowring's lines on the Falls of Clyde : —
O ! I have seen the Falls of Clyde,
And never can forget them ;
For Memory, in her hours of pride,
'Midst gems of thought will set them,
With every living thing allied : —
I will not now regret them !
And I have stood by Bon niton,
And wateh'd the sparkling current
Come, like a smiling wood-nymph, on—
And then a mighty torrent!
With power to rend the flirt's Hiion ;
Had they not been before rent.
And I have been in Balfour's cave j
But why hath chisel wrought it,
Since he, the brutal — but the brave,
In sore constraining sought it ?
Dark days ! when savage fought with slave,—
Heroically fought it.
And I have hung o'er Burley's leap,
And watched the streams all blending,
Ah down that chasm so dark and steep,
The torrents were descending ;
How awful is that chaos deep—
Those rocks so high impending!
And I have worshipped Corra Linn,
Clyde's most majestic daughter;
And those eternal rainbows seen,
That arch the foaming water ;
And I have owned that lovely Queen
And cheerful fealty brought her
And I have wandered in the glen,
Where Stonebyres rolls so proudly j
And watched, and mused, and watched again,
Where cliff, and chasm, and cloud lie,
Listening, while Nature's denizen
Talks to the woods so loudly.
Yes I I have seen the Falls of Clyde,
And never can forget them j
For Memory, in her hours of pride,
'Mid't gems of thought will net them,
With life'* most lovely beenes allied; —
I will nut now regret them I
Wordsworth too, — a mightier name in English
poesy, — has had his muse fired by the beauties of
this portion of the Clyde ; and it Would almost be
doing injustice to the reader to withhold his verses :
{Written insight of Wallace's Cave, at Corra Linn.)
I-ORliofthe Vale! astounding flood !
The dullest leaf, in this tnick wood,
Quakes — conscious of thy power;
The raves reply with hollow moan ;
And vibrates, to its central atone.
Yon time. cemented tower!
And yet how fair the rural scene!
For thou, O Clyde, hast ever been
Beneficent as strong;
Pleased in refreshing dews to stPep
The liitle trembling flowers that peep
Ttiy shelving rocks among.
Hence all who love their country, lova
To look on thee— delight to rove
Where they thy voice can hear;
And, to the patriot warrior's shade,
Lord of the Vale! to heroes laid
In dust, that voice i»<dear!
Along thy banks, at dead of night,
Sweeps vrsihly the Wallace wight;;
Or stands, in warlike vest,
Alolt, beneath the moon's pale beam,
A champion worthy of the stream,
Yon grey tower's living crest !
But clouds and envious darkness hide
A form not doubtfully described :
Their transient mission oVr,
O say to what blind regions (lee
These shapes of awful phantasy?
To what untrodden shore?
Less than divine command they "purn ;
But this we from the mountains learn,
And this the valleys show, —
That never will ihey deign to hold
Communion where the heart is cold
To human weal and woe.
The man of abject soul in vain
Shall walk the Marathnnian plain ;
Or thrid the shadowy gloom.
That still invests the guardian pass,
Where stood sublime Leonidas,
Devoted to the tomb.
Nor deem that it can aught avail
For such to glide with oar or sail
Beneath the piny wood,
Where Tell once drew, by Uri'a lake,
His vengeful shafts — prepared to slake
Their thirst in tyrant's blood I
During its progress over the falls, and the
neighbouring rapids, the Clyde is believed to de-
scend about 230 feet, — its bed, before it approaches
the falls, being about 400 feet above the level ot
the sea. Hitherto basaltic rocks have appeared in
the course of the river ; but the geological features
have now changed, and, with the tails, sandstone in
horizontal strata begins to show itself. Leaving the
parish of Lanark, the river loses its character of
romance, and assumes an appearance of simple but
variegated beauty, relieved at intervals by the marks
of ministration to manufacturing industry. It widens
its breadth of waters, — is looked down upon by a
more sloping and a wider expanse of country, — aru.
ploughs its way through alternations of valley and
of rolling bank, rich in the loveliness of agricultural
cultivation and the shadings of orchard and forest
scenery. [See article Clydesdale.] Over a dis-
tance of 1 1 miles, it divides the parishes of Carluke,
Cambusnethan, and Dalzell on the north, from those
of Lesmahagow, Dalserf, and Hamilton on the south ;
and, intersecting a wing of the last of these parishes
over the beautiful grounds of the ducal demesne,
it retouches the parish of Dalzell, and passes on tu
Both well. Over the space of a mile, it separates
Both well from the parish of Hamilton, and, for 4
miles further, separates it from the parish of Blnu-
tyre; and here it moves gracefully under the bold-
ness of its banks, and wears a plentiful tufting ot
forest ornament. [See articles BoTHWELLandBLAN ■
tyre.] Continuing to present the mingled attrac-
tions of a cultivated basin, and the activities of busy
enterprise, it flows between the parishes of Oh'
CLYDE.
233
Moukland and the Barony of Glasgow on the right
bank, and those of Cambuslang and Rutberglen on
the left, till, in the course of 4 miles, it glides into
Glasgow.
Hitherto the rich and very various scenery of the
Clyde has been foiled, or rather heightened, and occa-
sionally touched with foreign associations, by the pre-
sence chiefly of smiling villages, suggesting ideas of
rural enjoyment, — gentlemen's seats, and luxurious
demesnes, picturing the delights of opulent seclusion
from the world, — and yawning ruins of massive
castles and the strongholds of monkish despotism
in the days of popery, calling up, by contrast,
thoughts of the liberty and intelligence of modern
times. But at Glasgow, the Clyde — though after-
wards resuming its green and its golden dresses of
sylvan beauty and mountain grandeur — puts on its
aspect of prime importance to the plodding and
busy population of Scotland, by becoming a naviga-
ble river, and bearing on its bosom swarms of every
description of craft, laden with stores of merchan-
dise, and in communication with every nook or
hamlet along the shores around its embouchure, or
with places trodden only by the savage or the co-
lonist at the ends of the earth. From Glasgow, till
it begins to expand into an estuary, it is artificially
deepened and pent up within embankments of stone ;*
* Considerable difference of opinion eKists among- scientific
wen as to tlie best means of preserving and improving the na-
vigation of this noble river. Iti September, 18-24, Mr. Whidley,
the engineer employed in the construction of the Plymouth
breakwater, reported to the Clyde trustees that the operations
hitherto pursued with the view of improving the navigation of
the river, had, ill fact, greatly injured it; and would, if perse-
vered in, ultimately rum the river for commercial purposes.
Bv contracting, as had been done, the width of the river from
3,400 feet, in some places, to 400 feet, Mr. Whidley was of
opinion that the scouring effect of the tide would be greatly di-
minished ; and banks and bars would be formed in the channel
of the river, even below Port-Glasgow : — " For it stands to
reason that if a large body of water is allowed to flow up a
river, its body and weight are forced against the river-stream,
«nd that stream is kept higher up in the country, and more
water finds its way up; and when it ebbs the greater is the
scouring effect, which will be the means of keeping the river
•deep, and prevent shoal3 and banks for mine. But if the river
is contracted, and the tide prevented from flowing into its an.
■oient recesses, the ebb-tide must be reduced in quantity, and be
less capable of producing these effects; for all rivers bring
down from ihe country a great quantity of rubble, mud, &c. ;
and if there is not a sufficient body of back-water to carry the
same into deep water, banks and bars will form and destroy tbe
navigation." lu Mr. Whidley's opinion, there never ought
to have been more done to the Clyde than paring away the
points, and filling the deep indents of the shores, so as to have
allowed the tide to have flowed along the land without inter-
ruption. He also recommended that the dams at the bridges
or wears should be removed, and dug down to the lowest ebbs
along the Broomielaw, so as to allow the tide to flow as far
ahove the town as the level of the land above would allow it.
This being done, the sand and mud, he thought, should be dug
■nut between the bridges, and also some distance above them,
so that the tide might flow freely up, which would produce a
large body of hack-water, and assist ill scouring out the river
below'. In July 1839, Mr. William Bald gave it as his opinion
that V if the natural breadth of a river be narrowed, it will ac-
quire in depth what has been taken from it in width ; taking
into account the nature of the soil at the bottom and on the
sides of the river, and the velocity of the water-current "
Among other modes of improving the river any plan that
should increase the volume of water into the upper reaches of
the Clyde above the city of Glasgow, Mr. Bald thought would
he attended with the most beneficial results. ** The tide water
in the harbour will be increased ; the time of high-water will
be more early, thereby enabling ships, outward and inward
bound, to reach the port sooner, and depart from it earlier.
The velocity of the tide of flood and ebb would be increased,
not only through the harbour, but also through the whole na-
vigable channel of the Clyde ; and even for some distance this
scouring power would be felt above Hutchesons' bridge, by
which the whole impurities of the sewerage of the city would
he washed away downwards by the ebbing tidal current, and
which would render Glasgow more healthy, and the water in
the harbour more pure. By the removal of the wear at the
New bridge, the Clyde could be deepened upwards in such a
manner as to allow a volume of water each tide to ascend the
Clyde towards Dalmarnoek ford, of about 13,200,000 cubic feet,
equal to 367,242 tons. The removal of the wear would give a
volume of water each tide, into the upper reaches of the Clyde,
to the end of the tidal flow above the Glasgow Works, of
20,400,000 cubic feet of water, equal to 567,557 tons. This is
nearly equal to u river line of 4 miles long, 4 feet deep, and 242
and, over the whole of this distance, it fluctuates under
the flow ami ebb of the tide, and, as well as at
Port-Glasgow and Greenock, is everywhere over-
looked at intervals by the rising hulls or the finished
decks of steam-boats and other craft preparing for
the launch. Compared with the bulk of its, waters,
and the breadth of its stream,! it is probably unsurT
passed in the world for the quantity and stir of its
navigation ; not only bearing along ships of heavy
burden and deep draught of water, and plentifully
dotted with yawls and wherries, but kept in coitr
stant foaming agitation by large steam-ships bear?
ing heavy cargoes from the shores of England and
Ireland, by numerous coasting steam-vessels career-
ing over its surface with live freights of human
beings, and by steam-tug-boats dragging behind them
trains of sailing-craft too unwieldy to pilot their own
way within its narrow channel. First in the practi-
cal working of steam-ship-architecture and steam.-
navigation, it still retains its eminence above every
other river in the world.
Leaving Glasgow, the Clyde intersects the parish
and sweeps past the village of Govan, receives from
the tiorth the waters of the Kelvin, and about li
mile lower down, leaves Lanarkshire, through which
it had hitherto flowed; and henceforth, till it rolls
into the ocean, it divides Dumbartonshire and Argyll-
shire on the right, from Renfrewshire, Ayrshire, and
AVigtonshire, on the left. Four miles below Glas'r
gow, it is adorned, on its northern bank, by the
neat demesne and mansion of ^cotstown; and a mile
further, on the south bank, it passes, at 2(X) yartls
distance, the ancient burgh of Renfrew, and is
overlooked by the bustling terminus of the Ren-
frew and Paisley railway; three-quarters of a mile
further, still on the same side, it receives the wa-
ters of the Cart, and looks up, at three miles dis-
tance, through a richly varied vista, to the spires
and loftier buildings of Paisley; and on to Er-
skine ferry, 9 miles from Glasgow, it flows through
cultivated plains, with a pleasing back-ground of
mountain-scenery in the north. At Erskine ferry
it passes, on its right bank, the cheerful village
of Kilpatrick, and a little further down on its
left, the well-wooded demesne of Lord Blantyre ;
and here begins to be closed in for several miles on
feet wide. This immense volume of water ascending and de-
scending each tide, would eminently tend to earry away all im-
purities which are discharged into the Clyde at Glasgow; in.
deed, the effects of this scouring power Would be felt towards
the lower extremities of the river Clyde, as far as the banks
opposite Port-Glasgow aud Greenock. The removal of the
weir would at once open an extent of river, between the New-
bridge and Hutchesons* bridge, of nearly 2:1 acres, equal in ex-
tent to the whole of the lower harbour; and a deepening of A
or 4 feet would enable all the smaller craft in the lower har-
bour to ascend into the very centre of the city, which would bu
a great relief to the lower port, where the large ships lie. But
this upper harbour of 23 acres is quite capable of being so im-
proved, that ships of the largest class might lie in it, and Glas-
gow would then indeed have the aspect of a great maritime
port. To those, Mr. Baki adds, who have visited some of the
continental harbours and cities — such, for example, as Amster-
dam and Rotterdam — nothing can appear more natural and
simple, than to convert the whole of the Clyde, between the
New bridge and Hutchesons' bridge, into a large floating har-
bour. Its position, in the very middle of the city, would con-
fer many advantages on the merchant and trader.
■j- The following calculation is taken from Dr. Thomson's vo-
lume on Heat and Electricity tp- 268]. "The breadth of the
Clyde, at the new bridge, Gla-gow, is 410 fnet, and its mp.in
depth 34, ieet. The velocity of the water at the surface is 1 y:l
inch, and the mean velocity of the whole water is 0 558 132
inch per second. From these data it may be inferred that the
quantity of water discharged per second is "fi£ cubic feet. This
amounts to 2.417, 760,000 cubic feet, or 47:1,017,443 imperial gal-
lons, or 1,877,053 tons. The river Clyde drains about one-
thirtieth of Scotland, or about one eighty-third part of Great
Britain. Hence, if the water discharged into the sea by the
Clyde afforded a fair average of the whole island, the total
amount of the water discharged annually by all the rivers in
Great Britain would he only 155,795,399 tons, which does not
amount to 100th part of the excess of the rain above the
evaporation."
2:34
CLYDE.
the north by the spurs of the Campsie mountains, '
descending with a rapid swoop almost to its verge, i
and presenting mingled views of precipice and ver-
dant slope, tuftings of plantation and surfaces of rock
and heath. Just where these heights close in, or H!
mile below Erskine ferry, it passes Bowling-bay, the ,
entrance of the Forth and Clyde canal, which is gen- j
erally dotted over by two or more vessels entering or \
leaving the river. [See article Forth and Clyde I
Canal.] A mile below Bowling-bay, it passes j
on the north the neat hamlet of Dunglass, and is
overlooked from a rock on its verge by an obelisk
recently erected to the memory of Henry Bell; and 2
miles farther on, it leaves its stone-embankments,
rolls past the base of Dumbarton castle, receives the
waters of the Leven, and progressively bursts from
the limits, and throws off the character of a mere
river, or fresh-water stream. Here the scenery be-
held from its channel begins to be surpassingly va-
ried, rarely sinking beneath the beautiful, and at in-
tervals rising into the magnificent. Behind Dum-
barton castle, which mounts precipitously up from
its confluence with the Leven in the form of a huge
cleft cone, are seen the town of Dumbarton on
the fore-ground, the rich undulating vale of the
Leven in the centre, the towering summit of Ben-
lornond, on the back-ground, relieved to the view by
a diversity all round of mountainous horizon. In
front, the Clyde, through a distance of 9 miles,
widens from 6 furlongs to 4 miles ; and on both
banks or shores, but especially in front, before it
makes its sudden debouch to the south, it surpris-
ingly combines the attractions of lowland and of
highland scenery, mingling the softness and sylvan
beauty of the one, with the grandeur, and at times,
the savageness of the other. Port-Glasgow, with
its neat appearance and romantic situation, — and
Greenock, with its finely-blended character of gor-
geous surrounding landscape, and commercial and
nautical stir,— these on the south ; and the smiling
village of Helensburgh, with the diversified slopes
and eminences, and tufts of plantation, on the north ;
and the embowered castle and wooded shores of
Roseneath, backed by the savage outlines of the
Argyleshire mountains on the west ; and the con-
stant movement of ship, and steam-boat, and wher-
ry, on the waters between ; and the ever-changing
and generally fascinating or brilliant appearance of
the drapery of clouds all around; — these form a
picture on which the eye of even an ennuyee might
hundreds of times gaze, and never become drowsy
or tired.
Two miles west of the longitude of Greenock, the
Clyde forks round the peninsula of Roseneath, send-
ing up an elongated bay, the Gareloch, about 8 miles
to the north-west, and bending round its own chan-
nel, now narrowed to less than 2 miles, in a direction
due south. Just after having made this debouch, it
looks backward to the rear of Roseneath, and sends
away nearly due north the mountain-edged stripe of
waters, Loch-Long ; which, in its turn, sends off to
the north-west, a few miles from its embouchure,
the stripe forming Loeh-Goil. Three miles below
Greenock the Clyde opens on the left into the
small bay of Gourock, fringed with the graceful
swoop of buildings forming the village ; and a little
to the south, on the opposite shore, it opens, under
the overhanging acclivity of the Kilmun hills, into
the larger and somewhat romantic bay of Holy-Loch,
the quarantine station of its ports. It now, with
the straggling, sequestered, and neatly edificed vil-
lage of Dunoon, overlooking it for 1-J mile from the
southern headland of Holy-Loch, passes along under
the steep, heathy acclivity of the Cowal hills on
the west, and rich sylvan slopes, with here and
there a tufted ravine on the east, till, 6 miles be-
low Dunoon, it sends off, round Toward-Point,
that magnificent belt of waters, the Kyles of Bute,
which opens with the demesne and splendid mansion
of Toward castle, looking down upon it from the right,
and the semicircular town of Rothsay, in its holiday-
dress of back-ground scenery, smiling upon it on the
left, — and then sweeps away round the island of
Bute, forming a causeway of waters between its
gentle beauties, and the rough, coarse, mountain-
land of Argyleshire, and sending off at two points
to the northward elongated bays to cleave asunder
the Argyleshire mountains. Minuter descriptions of
the various branches of the frith will be found under
the heads, Gareloch, Holy-Loch, Loch-Fyne,
Loch-Goil, Loch-Long, and Kyles-of-Bdte.
' At the southern point of the entrance to the Kyles,
the Clyde has expanded into the width of 5 miles; and
it maintains this width over a distance of 3 miles,
when it runs abreast of the Cumbrae islands, and
separates into two channels, — the narrower about a
mile in breadth, sweeping round between the Cum-
braes and Ayrshire, and the broader averaging nearly
3 miles, flowing direct onward between the Cumbraes
and Bute, and forming the marine highway from the
west of Scotland to the Irish channel and the At-
lantic. The narrower channel, just when leaving
the main body of the estuary, sweeps past the town
of Largs ; 3i miles onwards, it breaks through be-
tween the Greater and the Lesser Cumbrae, passing
the fine village of Millport on the former, and open-
ing a communication with the main channel on the
west ; while, at the same time, it passes by its di-
rect branch along the eastern shore of the Little
Cumbrae, and having rounded the point or headland
whence the far-spreading bay of Ayr begins to bend
away inland, it looks right forward toward Ailsa
Craig, and points the way athwart the centre of the
expanse which stretches between Ayrshire and Arran.
The broader or main channel of the Clyde past the
Cumbraes, after contracting between the Lesser
Cumbrae and the southern point of Bute, into a
strait, less than 2 miles in breadth, suddenly expands
into a frith, averaging about 32 miles in width, and
at the distance of 45 or 48 miles, becomes identified
with the north or Irish channel, and turning westward
round the Mull of Cantire, is lost in the Atlantic.
In the northern part of the frith, 4 miles at the
nearest point distant from Bute, rises the large,
mountainous island of Arran ; and north from the
most northerly point of this island, the frith sends
off the picturesque and magnificent stripe of waters
which, flaunting far away to the north, and laving
at length the exquisite scenery of Inverary, rejoices
justly in the name of Loch-Fyne. All the frith, ex-
cept the belt which goes round the northern half of
Arran, is overlooked by Ailsa Craig, [see Ailsa
Craig,] which rises like a wt'ard from the centre
of its waters, and, as if -wielding a spell over every
thing which moves on their surface, attracts the
prolonged and wearying gaze of the nautical tourist,
till he almost forgets to feast himself on the^ wide
range of varied and magnificent scenery within his
view. Altogether, from its sources to its embou-
chure, the Clyde is probably more opulent in every
thing truly interesting than any other river, no mat-
ter how boasted, of the British Isles.
Majestic Cltitha! as a princess moving,
From the pavilion of thy morning rest,
Tci where the Atlantic aits, with smile approving;.
And folds his daughter to liis ample breast,
Throned in the sunset, monarch of the west: —
On thee lie pours the treasures of his reign.
And wreathes Coluinhia's riches round LI. y crest
The Indies love thy name, — and the loin; train
Of myriad golden isles, that gem the ay.ure main.
CLYDESDALE.
235
CLYDESDALE, or Strathclyde, the vale—
as the name implies — through which the river just
described flows. Its topographical features have
been sketched in the preceding article ; and the reader
is referred to our general article on Lanarkshire
for further information on the agriculture and statis-
tics of the district. In the present article, however,
we shall give a brief account of the far-famed Clydes-
dale orchards. These lie mostly between the bot-
tom of the lowest fall of the river, and the mouth of
the South-Calder ; or perhaps, from the foot of the
Mouse water to Bothwell castle, a distance of 16
miles. At the upper end of this district, the bed of
the river is about 200 feet above sea-level ; at the
lower end it does not exceed 50. This region
is well-protected against the cold easterly haars,
which are so injurious to vegetation; and hoar-
frosts or mildews are seldom felt here. The orch-
ards are chiefly of apple-trees, with a mixture of pears
and plums. Cherries are more rarely cultivated,
being so much subject to the depredations of birds.
Few of the orchards are large: many of them are
mere cottage-orchards. They were stated in the
'Agricultural Eeport' of 1793, to amount to 200
acres ; and in that of 1806, to be upwards of 250 acres ;
while the total extent of orchards in the county
exceeded 340 acres. At present they amount to
1,200 acres, including in this estimate the small
gardens and cottage-orehards in and around Hamil-
ton. The produce is very precarious, the fruit be-
ing frequently destroyed in the blossom by sprir.g-
frosts and caterpillars. In some years, such as 1818,
the whole value of the orchards betwixt Lanark and
Hamilton has amounted to upwards of £6,000. Even
in the years 1801 and 1804, the value of the fruit from
the different orchards exceeded £5,000 each year ;
but this was not so much owing to an increase of
fruit from orchards lately planted — few of them hav-
ing arrived at any perfection of fruit-bearing — as to
a gradual rise in the price of fruit, and both those
years being very productive ones. A remarkable
instance is mentioned of the fruit produced on balf-
an-acre of ground, in the former year, bringing
£150 to the dealer who carried it to market. The
value of the fruit is not always in proportion to the
number and size of the trees. Those who cultivate
the ground around the trees, taking care not to in-
jure the roots, and giving manure from time to time,
have finer fruit, and a much greater quantity in pro-
portion, than those who do not. Much also depends
on adapting the trees to the soil and exposure.
Though the different kinds of apples, &c. are gener-
ally engrafted on the same kinds of stocks, each as-
sumes the habits peculiar to the scion. Those who
have been attentive in observing this, and choosing
the kinds best adapted to their situation, have found
their account in it. B ut it ought not to be under-
stood that the choice of the stock is of no import-
ance. Native crabs are the hardiest, and prove the
most durable trees. Codling stocks, and those
raised from the seeds of good fruit, generally pro-
duce also finer fruit; but the trees seem to be more
subject to disease. The causes which produce the phe-
nomena occurring in the orchard are so intricate and
incomprehensible, that the most attentive and acute
cultivator can neither avert the injuries and maladies
to which the trees are liable, nor cure those that are
diseased. There is, indeed, no general principle to
direct the cultivator of the orchard ; all must de-
pend on a long course of topical experience, by
which the kinds of fruit-trees which have been
found to thrive and bear best in any particular spot
may be known and selected. The Clydesdale or-
chards are mostly planted on steep hanging-banks ;
on such they have \men found to succeed better than
on plains. The abrupt banks of the Clyde, espe-
cially on the north side, are ill-adapted for any other
agricultural purpose, as the expense of labour and
manure would hardly be repaid by the crop. On the
other hand, the excellent exposure, and general sharp-
ness of the soil, render these banks an object of im-
portance in the eye of the cultivator of fruit. Most
of the orchards are on cohesive soils, and on such the
trees have been supposed to be surer bearers than
on open sandy soils ; yet there are instances of very
productive orchards on friable and gravelly soils.
The apple-tree in general succeeds on a pretty hard
soil, provided the bottom be dry ; but when the roots
penetrate a subsoil holding stagnant water, or greatly-
charged with the oxide of iron, the tree fails. The
pear-tree requires a soil of greater depth, and more
soft and moist ; and will thrive in a subsoil where
the apple fails. It also yields fruit earlier, lives to a
greater age, and arrives at a greater size and more
towering height than the apple-tree. A single pear-
tree has been known to yield 60 sleeks of fruit, at
50 lbs. per sleek;* and there is a Longueville pear-
tree at Milton-Lockhart, said to be 300 years old.
The plum-tree does not succeed in the very stiff
cohesive soils; it requires a considerable depth of
dry friable mould. Its district extends to about 3
miles on either side of Dalserf. All the fruit-
trees which have been engrafted are more delicate
than those in a natural state, and require a more
attentive culture. Plum-trees are generally planted
round the verge of the orchard, and ?ire profit-
able, not only for 'the fruit they bear, but from
the shelter they afford the other trees. All fruit-
trees require shelter, and do best when they are
embosomed in woods. " Considerable diversitv
of opinion," says a writer in the ' Journal of Agri-
culture,' [vol. iv. p. 826,] "prevails in Lanark-
shire as to how far the fruit-trees should stand
from each other; and errors have been run into both
in planting too near and too sparse. In the Dalziel
orchards, and some others, the rows of trees are 22
feet apart, and 11 feet distance in the rows. The
trees in the orchard at West-Brownlee are closer.
In the new orchard on the estate of Wishaw, the
rows are at 30 feet distance, and the trees 15 feet
from each other in the rows. On the Coltness
estate the rows are 27 feet, and the trees 10A feet
from one another in the rows. Some, however, are
sparser ; and in some of the oldest orchards the trees
are irregularly planted. In general, however, they
are planted closer than is usually done in the English
orchards. It is a common practice in the Clydes-
dale orchards to plant an early bearer alternately
with other trees in the rows ; and some plant goose-
berry and currant bushes between the trees ; while
others raise only potatoes, oats," &c. Upon the
whole, though the produce of the orchard is preca-
rious, when the original insignificance of the grounds
on which fruit-trees succeed is considered, and the
ready sale and high price which the manufacturing
towns afford for fruit, an orchard planted with judg-
ment and carefully cultivated is certainly a profitable
possession. On the other hand, the depredations
committed on the orchards have become more fre-
quent and daring as the manufactures and population
of the county have increased, and are a great dis-
couragement to this species of cultivation, particu-
larly that of small orchards, which cannot defray the
expense of watching during the night. Besides the
larger fruit, great quantities of gooseberries and cur-
rants are here cultivated, and, when well-managed,
are said to pay very well. The gooseberry and cur-
* A sleek of plums weighs CO lbs. ; and of apples, 40 lb--:.
Tlie. fruit boll contains 20 sleeks. The present average market
price of Clydesdale fruit is 50s. per boIL
CLY
236
coc
rant trees are dug around annually, kept on a single
stem, and dunged every second year. Many new
varieties of small fruit have been introduced ; and
vast quantities are every year brought to market,
in Glasgow, Paisley, Hamilton, and Lanark, to the
value, it is supposed, of one-third of the large fruit.
The principal orchards are in the possession of their
respective proprietors. The Cambusnethan priory
orchard extends to 26 acres, and generally fetches
on an average £300 per annum. In some years, be-
fore the reduction in the prices of fruit, it has brought
.£1,000. Mauldslie castle orchard, extending to 8
acres, averages £150 ; in 1822 it brought £500; in
1838 only £38. One of the Brownlee orchards, of
12 acres, has sometimes yielded fruit to the value of
£600, and in other years has brought only £10.
The glebe of Dalziel has sometimes yielded £250.
The importation of fruit from Ireland has tended
greatly to reduce the prices of the Clydesdale fruit ;
but some proprietors have recently established cyder-
presses, which may improve the prices. Orchard
ground lets at from £6 to £10 per acre.
Clydesdale is also famous for its breed of horses.
The superlative animal known all over the Lowlands
of Scotland under the appellation of Clydesdale
horse, is not of a pure breed, but is of a kind im-
proved by crossing. This improvement, Mr. Wal-
lace of Kelly says, can readily be traced to the im-
portation of black mares from Flanders, which were
much in fashion, and put to very frequent use in the
coaches of the gentry of Scotland, soon after the use
of such carriages became pretty general. There is
little doubt of this having been extensively practised
in Lanarkshire, and that breeding from black Flan-
ders mares was paid great attention to in that district
about 100 years ago. Mr. Wallace thinks that the
breed of draught-horses in general, over the West
of Scotland, has degenerated; and that due care and
attention, in respect of the qualities of the mares
bred from, is the main cause of this. " Of late
years," lie says, " the breeding of draught-horses
has greatly extended over the West of Scotland, in-
cluding portions of the counties bordering on or in
the Highlands, where very useful but small-sized
mares have been bred from ; and to this inferior
crossing, may not only fairly be in part attributed
the colour complained of, but that want of bone and
strength, and of fine broad shape, which any accu-
rate observer will but too generally discover at our
horse-markets."
The Duke of Hamilton was created Marquess of
Clydesdale in 1643. His eldest son bears the title
of Marquess of Douglas and Clydesdale.
CLYNE, a parish on the eastern coast of Suther-
land, of which the inhabited part extends in length
about 24, and in breadth from 8 to 4 miles. It is
bounded on the north by Tongue ; on the east by
Kildonan ; on the south-east by Loth ; on the south
by the German ocean ; and on the west by Golspie.
Loch-Brora is a beautiful sheet of water, which dis-
charges itself into the sea by the river of that name,
at the entrance of which there is a tolerable harbour.
See article The Brora. The inhabitants on the
coast are mostly fishermen. There is plenty of ex-
cellent freestone and limestone, and coal has been
formerly wrought in this parish. Assessed property,
in 1815, £1,900. There are several Pictish anti-
quities ; in particular, a strongly fortified hill on the
south side of Loch-Brora, called Craigbar. Upon
a rock in the Blackwater of Strath-Beg, about 1J
mile north from the junction of that water with
the Brora, stand the ruins of Coles Castle:
which see. Population, in 1801, 1,643; in 1831,
1,711. Houses 410 This parish, formerly a vicar-
age is in the presbytery of Dornoch, and synod of
Sutherland and Caithness. Patron, the Duke of
Sutherland. Stipend £144 15s. 7d. ; glebe £12.
There is a preaching station at Aschorle on Loch
Brora Schoolmaster's salary £36 ; fees £15. There
is one private school in the parish.
CLYTHE-NESS, a promontory of Caithness, in
the parish of Latheron, in 58° 21' N. lat., and 3° 18'
W. long. The castle of Easter Clyth, which was
formerly of great strength, is situated upon a rock
overhanging the sea near this point. It is commonly
called Cruner Gunn's castle. Guhn was Coronator,
or Justiciary of Caithness, and was basely murdered,
with several gentlemen of the same name, in the
kirk of St. Teay near Castle- Sinclair, by Keith,
Earl Marischal, in 1478. At the hamlet of Clyth is
a neat little inn.
COALSTON, an ancient seat of the family of
Brown — now represented by the Countess of Dal-
housie — in the parish and shire of Haddington ; about
2 miles south of Haddington. There is a singular
story connected with the family of Coalston, one of
the ancestors of which married the daughter of his
neighbour, the famous warlock of Gifford, described
in Marmion. As they were proceeding to the church
— so runs the tale — the wizard-lord stopped the
bridal procession beneath a pear-tree, and plucking
one of the pears, he gave it to his daughter, telling
her that lie had no dowry to give her, but that as
long as she kept that gift, good fortune would never
desert her or her descendants. This must have oc-
curred before 1267, in which year, according to Sir
David Dalrymple, Hugh Gifford de Yester died ; and
the pear is still preserved in a silver box. About
two centuries ago, a maiden lady of the family chose
to try her teeth upon it, and very soon after two of
the best farms of the estate were lost in some liti-
gation : the only misfortune that has befallen the
inheritance of the Coalstbns in six centuries — thanks,
perhaps, to the Warlock pear.
COALTOWNS (East and West), two adja-
cent villages in Fifeshire, in the parish of Wemyss,
containing about 400 inhabitants ; 4 miles north-east
of Kirkaldy, and 1 north of West Wemyss.
COATBRIDGE, a village in the parish of Old
Monkland, 2-J miles west of Airdrie, on the Monkland
canal. Population, in 1831, 741. Inhabited houses
107.. — The following statement serves to show the
astonishing increase in the price of landed property,
in the vicinity of Coatbridge, which is mainly to be
attributed to the extension of the iron trade in that
nourishing neighbourhood. Some years ago, the
father of Mr. R. C. Buchanan, the present proprietor
of Drumpeller estate, purchased the lands of Dun-
dyvan, of some 50 acres in extent, for about £3,500.
In the year 1833, the DundyvanTron company feud
part of them from Mr. Buchanan, for which they
pay upwards of £200 yearly feu-duty ; and Mr. John
Wilson, now sole proprietor of Dundyvan Iron works
has purchased another part of them, for which he
pays £14,000. In addition to this, the Monkland
Canal company feued part of the property, which,
taken in connection with other feus to smaller hold-
ers, has raised the value of the whole to somewhere
about £22,000.
COCKBURN-LAW, a mountain in the parish
of Dunse, Berwickshire. It rises from a base of at
least 6 miles in circumference, to a conical top,
which is elevated about 912 feet above the level of
the sea. It is encircled by the Whitadder on three
sides. On the north side, a little below the middle
of the hill, are the ruins of a very old building, called
Woden's or Edwin's hall, or Edinshall. It consists
of two concentric circles : the diameter of the inner-
most being 40 feet; the thickness of the walls 7
feet ; and the spaces between the walls 7 and 1 0
COCKBURNSPATH.
237
feet. The spaces have been arched over, and divided
into cells of 12, 16, and 20 feet. The stones are
not cemented by any kind of mortar; they are chiefly
whinstone, and made to lock into one another with
grooves and projections. It is supposed to have
been a building similar to Coles castle, and Dun-
Dornadilla in the county of Sutherland. The prin-
cipal rocks composing this hill are porphyry and
granite.
COCKBURNSPATH,* a parish on the sea-coast
in the shire of Berwick. It presents angles to the
cardinal points of the compass ; and is bounded on
the north-east by the German ocean ; on the south-
east by the parish of Coldingham, and part of Old-
hamstocks ; on the south-west by Abbey St. Bathan's
parish ; and on the north-west by the shire of Had-
dington. Its greatest length, from its eastern angle
on Redheugh shore, to its western angle near the
source of Eye water, is 7£ miles; and its greatest
breadth, from its northern angle at Dunglass bridge,
to its southern angle at the point where Eye water
ceases to bound it, is ij miles. At a former period,
it was a small parish, but was afterwards — though
at what particular date cannot be ascertained — in-
corporated with the parish of Auldcambus. Cock-
burnspath consists of two sections ; the one bleak
and mountainous, and the other cultivated and com-
paratively low and level. The higher or southern
section is a continuation of the elevated region of
the Lammermoor hills, which, sweeping down upon
the parish from the north-east, passes away to meet
the sea, a little beyond its boundaries, in the bold
promontory of St. Abb's. This elevated tract is,
in general, soft in its features; the hills being almost
all rounded and broad, and never rising higher than
•500 or 600 feet. Between these hills, and onward
towards the ocean, are various ravines or narrow
valleys, threaded with mountain-streams, and wear-
ing in many places — from the mingling of rock and
wood and mimic cascade — an aspect highly pictur-
esque. The lower or northern section of the parish,
is; for the most part, well-cultivated; and, inter-
sected with the cleaving and sylvan-fringed stream-
lets from the south, rises slowly and wavingly toward
the hills. The coast is uniformly, but especially
toward the east, of a rocky, bold, precipitous char-
acter ; and presents some striking scenes. A beau-
tiful insulated cliff, bored through by the billows,
and a towering and magnificent rock, presenting an
outline closely similar to that of a cathedral or ancient
tower, are a fine foil to the general view ; and the
vast expanse of ocean beyond, the various forms of
the bold headlands in the distance, and the dottings
of the waters with vessels of every form and size
leaving or entering the frith of Forth, present a
general picture of no ordinary attraction Of the
several narrow valleys of the parish the most remark-
able, jointly for its picturesqueness and its other
attractions, is Pease dean. Over the stream which
flows through it, called the Pease burn, is a remark-
able bridge, reckoned a masterpiece of architecture,
which carries the public road, high aloft in the air,
onward from the north-east toward Berwick-on-
Tweed. This bridge was built in 1786: it is 300
fett in length, 15 feet between the parapet walls, and
120 feet above the stream which flows beneath; and
it consists of four arches, two of which both rest
their inner limbs upon a tall, slender pier, rising
from the bottom of the deep ravine. The bridge is
visited by many a tourist, and often examined with
a curious eye, — the fame attaching to it, of its being
the most elevated bridge in the world — The Cove
shore, about li mile from Dunglass-bridge at the
* Formerly the name was Colbranrispalh ; but it is now cor-
rupU'd, in vulgar conversation, into Coppersmith.
north-eastern limit of the parish, is another object
of unusual interest. This is a little bay, surrounded
by precipices upwards of 100 feet high, and looking
out upon the cliff and cathedral-like rock and ex-
tended sea-view which constitute the chief attrac-
tions of the coast-scenery. At one part of this
romantic bay, the coast is accessible only by a sloping
tunnel, hewn out of the soft rock, passing under
ground for the space of 60 or 70 yards, and merely
wide enough to admit a horse and cart; and here, at
the termination of this remarkable approach to the
sea, a pier has been erected for the accommodation
of fishing-boats. — At Redheugh, somewhat less than
a mile from the south-eastern angle of the parish, a
spot called Siccar-point also possesses unusual at-
tractions. Celebrated for geological phenomena, it
is, at the same time, rich in natural beauty. Scram-
bling down a lofty headland, which juts suddenly
into the sea, or descending a winding footpath which
has been erected for his accommodation down the
slopes of the precipitous sea-bank, the tourist arrives
at a cavern of considerable capaciousness as to both
height and area, walks beneath a fretted roof of
glittering and variform calcareous stalactitic incrus-
tations, and sees himself guarded in by ranges of
cliffs and isolated rocks which so vex and tumultuate
and dash into spray the rolling billows as to manu-
facture a watery veil of no common beauty, sus-
pended over an expanded and interesting sea-view.
At the eastern extremity of the Lammermoors, in the
high valleys through which the road passes to Ayton,
Dr. Buckland discovered, in 1839, traces of moraines
disposed m terraces at various elevations. The only
stream, except the rills which rise in its own heights,
is Eye water, which rises about a mile to the east of
it, in Haddingtonshire, and forms its boundary on
the south-west as long as it is coterminous with
the parish of the Abbey of St. Bathan. During the
whole of this part of its course, the river's banks are
bare and unattractive. There are several planta-
tions,— patches of forest on the sides of the narrow
valleys, the wooded portion of the demense of Dun-
glass, and Pemeshiel wood, which covers about 100
acres. — Remains of military forts and encampments
are numerous in the district, — particularly in the
vicinity of the ravines, which, in the unsettled times
of early history and of the Border raids, were for-
midable passes. Several of the fortifications are of
British origin, — particularly a very interesting one
on the summit of Ewieside hill ; and others, if not
erected by the Romans, are in the vicinity of some
traces of their presence, — many urns and other ar-
ticles obviously of Roman workmanship, having, in
various localities, been unearthed by the plough.
In addition to these military vestiges of an early
period, this parish contains not a few interesting
relics of more recent feudal times, — ■
*' the mouldering halls of barons bold."
Dunglass castle, near the northern angle and north-
eastern limit of the parish, and the seat of Sir James
Hall, Baronet, was originally a fastness of the Earls
of Home. See article Dunglass A more interest-
ing place is Coekburnspath tower, which stands on
the edge of a strong pass or ravine nearly in the
centre of the parish, nodding,- in venerable ruin,
over the great road from Berwick to Edinburgh.
Though never, apparently, a place of great extent,
this tower, owing to its commanding position, was
esteemed one of the keys of the kingdom of Scot-
land; and possessed so early as 1073 by the Earls of
Dunbar nnd March, it figured prominently in the
tumultuous scenes of the international wars On
the coast, about 2 miles from the eastern angle of
the parish, stand the nuns of the old church of the
coc
238
COL
incorporated parish of Auldcambus ; surmounting a
high, overhanging precipice, and commanding an
extensive and fascinating view. The building is a
specimen of simple Saxon architecture ; is supposed
to have been erected so early as the seventh cen-
tury; and was dedicated to St. Helena, the mother
of Constantine the Great. Near this ruin there
were found, a few years ago, an ancient rosary and
numerous coins, — some of the coins comparatively
little defaced, and of the reign of Athelstan or Edel-
stan the Great, grandson of Alfred the Great .
About | of a mile from the north-eastern limit of
the parish, on the great road north and south, stands
the small village of Cockburnspath, H miles from
Dunbar, and 20 miles from Berwick-on-"T weed, pos-
sessing a population of about 230, and having an
annual fair on the 2d Tuesdav of August, Popula-
tion of the parish, in 1801, "930; in 1831, 1,143.
Assessed property, in 1815, 8,281. Houses 213
The parish of Cockburnspath is in the presbytery
of Dunbar, and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend £245 13s. 3d.; glebe
£'27. Unappropriated teinds £76 lis. 5d There
is a United Secession church at the village of Stock-
bridge Schoolmaster's salary £30. There are
other two schools, besides the parish-school, — one
supported by subscription in the village of Cock-
burnspath, and the other an endowed one in the
district of Auldcambus. The parish-church is a
very ancient structure, dating as far back at least as
1163; but it has recently had repairs, and contains
sittings for about 400 persons. Auldcambus or Old
Cambus anciently belonged to the monastery of
Coldingham, as a cell of Durham ; the Scottish
Edgar having granted to St. Cuthbert's monks of
Durham its manor, with the appertaining lands, tolls,
shipwrecks, and other customary dues.
COCKENZIE, a village and small sea-port in the
parish of Tranent, Haddingtonshire. It lies on the
shore of the frith of Forth, on the coast-road from
Edinburgh to Aberlady and North Berwick, in the
immediate vicinity of the village of Portseaton, and
about a mile east of Prestonpans. It consists chiefly
of works for the manufacture of salt, and the houses
of workmen and fishermen. A railroad from the coal-
pits near Tranent leads to the harbour. For the
accommodation of the inhabitants, a church was built
here, by private enterprise, in 1838. The pomila-
tion of the village, with Portseaton, is about 750.
COCKPEN, a parish in the shire of Edinburgh,
lying in a south-easterly direction from the metro-
polis. It has somewhat of an hour-glass outline ;
and is bounded on the north by the parish of Lass-
wade ; on the east by the parish of Newbattle ; on
the south by the parish of Carrington ; and on the
west by the parish of Lasswade. Its extreme mea-
surement from north-east to south-west, is about 3-£
miles ; and from north to south nearly 3 miles ; but
its area is only between 3 and 4 square miles. The
South Esk enters the parish from the south, inter-
sects it for nearly 1 J mile, and afterwards forms its
boundary with the parish of Newbattle. The banks
of this river are here steep, bold, and beautifully
fringed with natural wood. The surface of ih° oar-
ish is somewhat uneven ; but the soil is a strong
clay, and is highly cultivated, abundantly luxuriant,
and everywhere shaded by enclosures and planta-
tions. Coal is plentiful, and successfully worked ;
good freestone abounds ; and a sort of moss is found
whence copperas has been obtained. The parish
has consisted, since the 12th century, of the barony
of Dalhousie, originally written Dalwolsie. On the
left bank of the South Esk, near the point where
that river is crossed by a fine bridge, stood the old
baronial castle of Dalhousie. This was anciently an
imposing edifice, of a square form and turreted; and,
encompassed by a strong wall, as well as supplied
with other means of defence, was a place of very great
strength. Latterly it has been denuded of its forti-
fied dress, and, with some traces of antique appear-
ance, has assumed a modern garb. The ancient
family of Ramsay, possessing since 1633 the title of
Earls of Dalhousie, have for ages been its proprie-
tors. Sir Alexander Ramsay of Dalhousie, who
lived in the 14th century, is celebrated as one of the
bravest warriors of that age. His gallant behaviour
at the battle of Otterburn is recorded by Froissart.
He was appointed by his sovereign warder of the
borders ; and, out of envy, was treacherously mur-
dered by Douglas of Liddesdale. See Castletown.
The mansion of Cockpen belongs also to the noble
family of Ramsay ; and is situated among fascinating
and romantic scenery. The parish is intersected,
as far as Dalhousie Mains, by a branch of the Edin-
burgh and Dalkeith railway; and contains the exten-
sive gunpowder manufactory of Stobbs. Population,
in 1801, 1,681 ; in 1831, 2,025. Houses 326. As-
sessed property, in 1815, £6,543. Of the population,
1,140 reside in the villages of Prestonholm, Bonny-
rig, and Westmill of Lasswade, the last of which
lies so near the church of the coterminous parish of
Lasswade that the inhabitants generally prefer it to
their own. There are 5 other villages ; the popu-
lation of each of which, however, is under 100
The parish of Cockpen is in the presbytery of Dal-
keith, and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron,
the Earl of Dalhousie. Stipend £157 5s. 3d. ; glebe
£21. Unappropriated teinds £133 0s. 5d. School-
master's salary between £34 and £35. There are
two other schools. Church built in 1820; sittings
625. For several years religious services have been
conducted on Sabbath evenings, about once a month,
by various dissenters in the village of Bonnyrig, in
a schoolhouse capable of containing about 250.
During the Scoto-Saxon period Cockpen was a rec-
tory, the patronage of which belonged, as at present,
to "the Ramsays of Dalwolsie." In 1296 Malcolm
de Ramsay, the rector, swore fealty to Edward I.,
who commanded the sheriff of Edinburgh to restore
him to his rights. The church of Cockpen seems to
have afterwards been granted to a fraternity of Cis-
tertian monks, who held it till the overthrow of
popery at the Reformation.
COE (The). See Glencoe.
COICH (The), or Quoich, a tributary rivulet
of the Dee, in the parish of Crathie, Aberdeenshire.
It descends from the southern and western slopes of
Bennabuird, and pursues a south-easterly course,
through the forest of Braemar, till its junction with
the Dee, between Mar lodge and Allanmore.
COIGACH (The Aird of), a district in the
shire of Cromarty, though locally situated in the
shire of Ross. It stretches along the eastern coast
of Loch-Broom into the Western ocean, and is com-
prehended in the parish of Loch-Broom. It contains
the beautiful vales of Strathceannard and Ridorch.
The population of the district was 1,975, in 1834.
COILTIE (The), a rivulet flowing along the
southern margin of the vale of Urquhart into the
west side of Loch-Ness. It is a rapid running
stream. Its tributary, the Divach, when in full
supply of water, is said to display "a waterfall as
high and picturesque as that of Foyers."
COINISH (The), a streamlet in Argyleshire,
falling into the upper part of Loch Linnhe.
COLDINGHAM, a parish on the coast of Ber-
wickshire, of irregular figure and considerable ex-
tent. Except a detached portion, about 5 fiulongs
long and 3i broad, which is imbosomed to the east
in the parish of Eyemouth, it is bounded on the
COLDINGHAM.
239
north uy tlie German ocean; on the east by the
German ocean and the parishes of Eyemouth and
Ayton ; on the south by the parishes of Chirnside
and Buncle ; and on the west by the parishes of
the Abbey of St. Bathans, Oldlmmstocks, and Cock-
burnspath. Its extreme measurement, from east
to west, is about 83 miles, and, from north to
south, about 8 miles f and, including its detached
section, it embraces an area of about 57,600 im-
perial acres. Before the Reformation, it compre-
hended most of the parishes by which it is now
bounded, and was called, in its charters, Colding-
hamshire. Its surface is, for the most part, very
uneven. Several ranges of hills, constituting part
of the Lammermoor chain, run through it in pa-
rallel lines from west to east, and file off to the
north to form the celebrated headland called St.
Abb's Head : which see. The hills, however, are
of inconsiderable elevation, the highest, Wardlaw'
bank, being only 640 feet above the level of the sea;
and they are cloven into ridges by intervening val-
leys of considerable extent, watered by the Eye,
the Ale, their respective tributaries, and five minor
streams, which all, with two unimportant exceptions,
traverse the parish from west to east, and generally,
near their embouchure, turn northward to fall into
the ocean. Most of the flat lands are enclosed and
arable ; but upwards of 5,000 acres, which form what
is called Coldingham common, are moorland, and in a
state of sterility. A mile south-west of St. Abb's
Head is Coldingham loch, 30 acres in superficial
area, and 300 feet above the level of the sea, though
only about 300 yards distant from the shore, and so
bleakly situated that an attempt to tuft its sloping
banks with plantation has proved abortive. This
lake is of a triangular form, pellucid in its waters,
several fathoms in depth, and, though neither fed
by any rill, nor discharging itself by any outlet, is not
observed to be subject to fluctuation. The extent
of sea-coast in the parish is 6.7 miles in a direct line ;
but, along its wide and numerous windings, is 8i or
9 miles. A considerable part of the shore, particularly
at Coldingham sands, and the farm of Is'orthfield, is
smooth and of easy access, and, though nowhere em-
bosoming a harbour, is rife with fishing-boats. But,
in the neighbourhood of St. Abb's Head, the coast is
rocky and dangerous, abounding in caves and fis-
sures, once the retreat of smugglers, which are in-
accessible by land, and can be approached by sea !
only at low water, and in the calmest weather.
On the hills to the west and south of it, about a
mile distant, are remains of ancient camps ; two of
these are of British origin, ~— the one on Ernsheuch,
surrounded on three sides by lofty precipices, — and
the other on Wardlaw bank, encompassed with four
trenches. Three miles to the west of St. Abb's
Head, on a peninsular rock, stand the ruins of Fast
Castle: which see. At Renton, at Houndwood, j
at West Preston, and at East Preston, were for-
talices or castles, belonging to Logan of Fast castle,
all of which were demoUshed during the last cen-
tury, to afford building materials for other purposes.
About 2| or 3 miles from St. Abb's Head, on
the south side of the town of Coldingham, are
some remains of the celebrated priory of Colding-
ham. A few years ago, the ruins were very ex-
tensive; but they were rapidly dilapidated by the
peasantry carrying away the stones for the erection
of their cottages. Only those parts of it now remain
which form the north wall and east gable of the pre-
sent parish-church ; and these are remarkable for
chasteness of design, and impart a flattering idea of
the style of architecture during the transition from
the Norman to the early English period. At a short
distance from the vestiges of the south wall are an
ancient building called Edgar's walls, — some frag,
ments of what were known as ' the King's stables,'
and a fountain, called St. Andrew's well, which
supplied the priory with water ; in various places
in the vicinity formerly stood stone crosses, the sites
of which are still known by the names Cairncross,
Friarscross, Crosslaw, Whitecross, and Applincross.
The priory of Coldingham was founded in the year
1098 by Edgar, king of Scotland, who, aided by
William Rufus to regain his kingdom, and fighting
under the banner of St. Cuthbert, gifted to him
by the monks of Durham, believed himself indebted
more to the saint's influence than to the swords of
Rufus' soldiers, and knew not how munificently to
express his gratitude by the donation of lauds and
the erection of religious houses. In the fervour of
his superstitious piety, he built the church of St.
Mary of Coldingham, gave possession of it to a
colony of monks from Durham, attended in person
the ceremony of its dedication, and opulently en-
dowed it with mulcts upon the villagers of Swinton,
with the lands of Fishwick and Horndean, and with
the lands, the waters, and "the men" of Paxton.
Malcolm IV., WilUam the Lion, and Alexander II.,
severally confirmed the privileges bestowed by Ed-
gar, and added others. In 1127 Robert, Archbishop
of St. Andrews, within whose diocese the priory was
situated, importuned by David I., and probably in-
fluenced by Archbishop Thurston, and other dignities
of the English and the Scottish churches, granted to
this priory exemption from the exactions and inter-
ference of the ministers of prelatic authority ; and
this privilege, as powerfully perhaps as opulence and
greatness of monastic influence, contributed, in the
circumstances of the period, to exalt the inmates of
the priory to a high place among the agents who
moulded the interests of the nation. Subsequent
diocesans, however, abridged or attempted to revoke
the exemption, and made demands or inroads upon
the priory, which frequently placed the monks in
ambiguous and embarrassing positions, and occasioned
disastrous appeals to the popes and to conciliar in-
terference. The priory was enthralled, too, by its
colonial connexion with the monks of Durham ; the
latter wielding the power of electing its prior, and
exercising a right concurrent with that of its own in-
mates over its possessions. So arrayed in the trap-
pings of worldly glory was the office of its prior, that,
unlike any other ecclesiastic in the kingdom, he
maintained a retinue of seventy functionaries, who
bore titles, sustained appointments, and shared a cu-
rious division of labour more befitting the magnifi-
ficence of a princely court than the mortified retire-
ment of a cloister. The priors of Coldingham mingled
much in the political intrigues of their country, and
figure somewhat flauntingly on some pages of its his-
tory ; yet, they could not prevent the rebound upon
themselves of detrimental and even devastating in-
terferences from at once freebooters, nobles, king s,
and popes. Their priory, on account of its patron
saint, being venerated highly and alike on both sirits
of the Border, suffered less from the raids of its
vicinity than other establishments of its class in a j
similar position. But it was devoted to plunder by
King John, as unappeased by slaughter and unsa-
tiated with prey, he retired from Lothian in 1216;
and in 1305, it was handed over, as to all its
revenues and imnjunities, by Pope Benedict XL, to
Hugh, bishop of -Biblis, who had been expelled by
the Saracens from the Holy Land. Escaping, through
the interference and protection of the English crown,
the strangely intended infliction of the Pope, the
priory, during the regency of the Duke of Albany; in
the feeble reign of Robert III., passed, by the act of
its own inmates, under the surveillance of Alexander,
240
COLDINGHAM.
the laird of Home, as underkeeper of it for the
powerful family of Douglas ; and it, in consequence,
soon became limited in its resources and shorn of its
authority, and eventually acknowledged the family
of Home as the lords of all its possessions. James
III. attempted to suppress the priory, and to annex
its property to a chapel at Stirling ; and he not only
obtained his parliament's sanction to the project, but,
with their concurrence, sent envoys to Rome to pro-
cure the assent of the Pope. But the Homes, en-
raged at the attempt, conspired with the Hepburns,
under the auspices of the Earl of Angus, to dethrone
the king, and eventually, on the 11th of June, 1488,
achieved his death in a fray near Stirling During
the reign of James IV. the priory continued to be
oppressed or rather appropriated by the Homes. In
1509 it was, by the pope's authority, detached from
the superiority of the monks of Durham, and placed
under the abbey of Dunfermline ; but it was now
lorded over, first by Alexander Stewart, the king's
natural son, who already held the archbishopric of
St. Andrews and the abbacy of Dunfermline, and
who soon after fell in Flodden, fighting by the side
of his father,— next by David Home, Lord Home's
seventh brother, who continued to be prior till he
was assassinated by James Hepburn of Hailes, — next
by Robert Blackadder, who, with six domestics, was
assassinated by Sir David Home, — next by 'William
Douglas, Lord Angus' brother, who seized the office
by mere intrusion, and successfully resisted all efforts
to expel him, — next by Adam, who, in 1541, was
removed to Dundrinnan, to make way for John
Stewart, the infant and illegitimate son of James V.
During John Stewart's infancy, the king enjoyed the
revenues ; but found his possession of them less undis-
puted and luxurious than any of his ecclesiastical pre-
decessors. In November, 1544, the church and tower,
after being seized by the English, were successfully
fortified against the Regent, Arran ; and in Septem-
ber, 1545, the abbey, during the devastating incur-
sion of the Earl of Hertford, was burnt to the ground.
After the death of John Stewart, who now in his
maturity drew the revenues, John Maitland was
appointed to the commendatorsbip, and retained its
rich endowment till 1568, when he was created a
senator of the College of Justice. James VI. then
bestowed it on Francis Stewart, the eldest brother
of the former commendator, and, with his usual im-
prudence, afterwards created him earl of Bothwell,
abbot of Kelso, constable of Haddington, sheriff of
Berwick, bailie of Lauderdale, and high-admiral of
Scotland, giving him at the same time vast estates,
and receiving in return no expression of feeling but
accumulated vexations and treasons, which at last,
in 1595, occasioned the turbulent ingrate to be ex-
pelled the country. The possessions of the priory
were now bestowed first on the Earl of Home, and
next: — after the former's death in 1619 — on John,
the banished Earl of Bothwell's second son, who
was the last commendator of Coldingham. Tradition
says that when the abbey was destroyed, the sono-
rous bell of the church was carried to Lincoln, and
that it still loads the breezes around that city with its
powerful tones.
The village of Coldingham is 2 miles from Press
inn; 11 from Berwick; and 18 from Dunbar. It is a
burgh-of-barony under the Earl of Home. It stands
in a valley, having a small rivulet of excellent water
running upon each side of it, and is about a mile
distant from the sea. It is surrounded with rising
fields of gentle ascent ; but there are no prospects
from the village beyond half-a-inile's distance. It
appears from old writings, and by parts of the foun-
dations of old buildings, that several of the crofts
about the town, now arable, had been anciently the
sites of houses and gardens; it must, therefore, hnve
been much more populous than it is at present
The other villages are West Reston about 2£ miles
from the south-eastern extremity of the parish, with
a population of 222; and Auchincraw, li mile to
the south-west, with a population of 161. " Popula-
tion of the parish, in 1801, 2,391 ; in 1831, 2,668.
Houses 532. Assessed property, in 1815, £18.729.
—Coldingham is in the presbyte'ry of Chirnside, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdak. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend £267 2s. lid.; glebe .£25 Unappropri-
ated teinds £492 15s. 5d. Two parochial school-
masters have each £25 salary, and about £20 scliool-
fees; and one has about £60 or £70 from endowed
sources. There are 10 schools, wholly supported
by school-fees. The parish-church is supposed to
have been built about the 12th century, and has been
frequently repaired, but never enlarged; sittings 827.
It is situated in Coldingham village, 1 mile from the
nearest boundary of the parish, and 7 miles from the
most remote. But a large part of the parish was,
in October, 1836, erected into a parish quojti sacra,
and has its own place of worship. See Hound-
wood. In the village of Coldingham, also, is a
place of worship, and a congregation of considerable
standing, connected with the United Secession synod.
Sittings 609. Minister's stipend £129, with £20
for house-rent According to a survey, in 1837, by
the parochial minister, there were, in this parish,
belonging to the Established church, 1,657 persons,
and belonging to other denominations 1,162.
COLDSTONE, See Logie-Coldstone.
COLDSTREAM,* a parish in the county of Ber-
wick ; bounded by Ladykirk on the east ; by Sim-
prin, now united to Swinton, on the north; by
Eccles on the west ; and by the Tweed, which sepa-
rates it from England, on the south. Placing the
foot of a compass at Lennel church, and taking 4
miles for a radius, a semicircle described on the north
of the Tweed will give a general idea of the extent
and form of the parish. The length from east to
west is from 7 to 8 miles ; the average breadth 4
miles. The general appearance of the country is
flat. The soil for the most part is rich and fertile ;
near the Tweed it is light; but it inclines to clay
as it falls back from the river. A broad slip of bar-
ren land — called the Moorland — runs through the
parish from east to west. Coldstream is situated at
nearly equal distance from the Cheviot and Lammer-
moor hills ; and when the weather is showery, espe-
cially if the wind be westerly, the clouds usually
take the direction of one or other of these ranges of
hills, pour down their contents upon them, and leave
this district untouched. Much more rain falls at
Dunse and Wooler than at Coldstream. The ele-
vation of Coldstream bridge is 61 feet above Berwick
pier. The river Tweed here produces trouts, wb.it-
* The ancient name of the parish was Lennel or Leinhall ;
and the ruins of Lennel church stood on the north hank of the
Tweed, 1£ mile distant from Coldstream. Eastward from this
church, ttiere was formerly a village called Lennel, which was
so entirely destroyed in the Border wars, that the site ot it is
not now known. According to Chalmers, the. parish of Lein-
hall appears in charters as early as the year 1147. When Cos-
patritik, Earl of Dunbar, founded the Cistertian nunnery at
Coldstream, he gave it the church of Layn-cl, with half-n-
carucate of land at Layn-el, and another half-carocate at
Biryham. And Herder, his countess, granted to the same
nunnery the church of Hirsel, and a rarucate of land, which
the Earl confirmed. In this maimer were the churches of
Leinhall and Hirsel invested in the same religious house j but
the church of Hirsel came afterwards to be considered only as
a chapel, subordinate to the church of Leinhall. The church
of Hirsel stood on the lands of Hirsel, which form the south-
western part of this parish. The church of Leinhall continued
in the possession of the prioress of Coldstream, till the Refor-
mation ; and it preserved its ancient name for a century and a
half after that epoch. In I71l» a new parish. church was built
at the village of Coldstream, and the designation of the parish
was afterwards taken 'roui the kiik-town.
COL
241
COL
ings, grilse, salmon, and all other kinds of iish com-
mon to the rivers in the south of Scotland. Its
tributaries in this parish are Graden burn, and the
Sliiells burn. The Leet flows for a part of its course
through the parish. The gross rent of the parish,
in the end of last century, was about .£6,000 sterling.
The rent of the fishings, £93. The value of as-
sessed property, in 1815, was £14,592. According
to the New Statistical Account, the present rental
of the parish is about £12,000. Population, in 1801,
2,269; in 1831, 2,897. Houses 471. The language
spoken here is distinguishable from that spoken on
the other side of Tweed, by the soft sound of the
letter E. From that river to a considerable distance
southward, the people universally annex a guttural
sound to the letter K, which in some places goes by
the name of ' the Berwick burrh.' — " The town of
Coldstream," says an old writer, " hath given title
to a small company of men, whom God made the
instruments of great things ; and, though poor, yet
honest as ever corrupt nature produced into the
world by the no-dishonourable name of Coldstream-
ers." They were formed by Monk from the two
regiments of Fenwicke and Hesilrige, when, in 1650,
the conquering armies of the Parliament were led
by Cromwell against the Northern Presbyterians.
They were chiefly Borderers : tried and hardy men,
who cared little for the cause of either King or
Commons, but loved their leader, and followed him
with blind and obstinate obedience through all his
changes of opinion and fortune. It was, however,
the fashion of the soldiers of the Commonwealth to
be austere and addicted to praying and preaching, and
in this the men of the Coldstream corps, it appears,
were not backward, for we have the undeniable tes-
timony of Bishop Burnet in their favour. " I re-
member well," said he, "these regiments coming to
Aberdeen ; there was an order, and discipline, and
a face of gravity and piety amongst them, that amazed
all people." At the head of these soldiers Monk
went up one side of Scotland and down another ;
storming castle after castle, town after town, dis-
comfiting and dispersing all enemies of the Common-
wealth, from Berwick to Dundee, and from Dundee
to Dumfries. The Coldstream guards remained, on
the whole, ten years in Scotland : during that period
they were recruited chiefly by Scottish republicans.
When confusion ensued on the death of Cromwell,
Monk marched at their head, dispersed the army of
Lambert, entered London, dissolved the Common-
wealth, and restored King Charles. Macpherson re-
lates, that Monk reviewed his men on the arrival of
the King ; desired them to ground their arms, and
consider themselves disbanded ; then he commanded
them to take them up and consider themselves no
longer the soldiers of the Commonwealth, but of the
Crown. The history of the Coldstream Guards has
been recorded in a recent publication by Colonel
Mackinnon This parish is in the presbytery of
Chirnside, and synod of Merse and Teviotdale.
Patron, the Earl of Haddington. Stipend £233 7s.
2d.; glebe £40. Church built in 1795; sittings
1,100. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4d., with
£75 fees, and £30 10s. other emoluments. There
were 5 private and 2 boarding-schools in this parish
in 1834 There is a United Associate synod church,
and a Relief church in the town of Coldstream.
Stipend of the Secession minister £150 with manse
and garden; of the Relief minister £115 The
principal villas in this parish are Lennel house, a
seat of the Earl of Haddington ; Lees, near the junc-
tion of the Leet and Tweed ; and Hirsel, a seat of
the Earl of Home.
Coldstream, a town in the above parish, upon
the north bank of the Tweed, within the baronies
of Coldstream and Hirsel, having the Leet flowing
past it on its western quarter. It is 91 miles east of
Kelso ; lOf south-west of Dunse ; and 14J west of
Berwick, The road from Edinburgh to Wooler, by
Cornhill, crosses the Tweed at Coldstream by a
bridge of 5 arches. Cornhill is 1 mile, Wooler 15J,
and Newcastle-on-Tyne 61 miles distant from Cold-
stream. There are two roads from Coldstream to
Berwick, one on either side of the Tweed. The
town formerly derived consequence from a ford over
the Tweed, the first of any importance which occurs
in following the stream upwards from Berwick. By
this passage, Edward I. entered Scotland in 1296 ;
and many other, both Scottish and English armies,
before the union of the crowns, have made their
way by this passage, to ravage the country of their
respective enemies. It was last used by a Scottish
army, as an entrance into England, in 1640. The
bridge of Coldstream is a furlong from the east end
of the town, and commands a fine view up and down
the woody banks of the river. On the last Thurs-
day of every month, there is a cattle-market held
here, which is chiefly resorted to by dealers from
the north of England. From December till May,
between 600 and 700 cattle are shown at this fair,
and from 500 to 600 sheep, principally Leicesters and
half-breds. There is also a corn-market every T hurs-
day. Coldstream is a burgh-of-barony. The two
superiors, the Earl of Haddington and the Earl of
Home, appoint the bailie, who has a salary of £21
from his superiors. Coldstream, like Gretna-Green,
enjoys an infamous celebrity for its irregular mar-
riages. Previous to the Reformation this place could
boast of a rich priory of Cistertian nuns, founded by
Cospatrick, Earl of March ; but of this building not
a fragment now remains. Population, in 1834, 2,081 .
Houses worth £10 and upwards, 106; worth from
£5 to £10, 72. The town is lighted with gas.
COLE'S CASTLE, an ancient and remarkable
fortification upon a rock in the Blackwater of Strath-
beg, about H mile north from the junction of that
river with the water of Brora. It is a circular build-
ing, 54 yards in circumference round the base on the
outside, or 18 in diameter ; 27 yards in circumfer-
ence, and 9 yards diameter within ; the walls are 4J
yards, or 13$ feet thick in the base, built of large
stones, well-connected, without any cement. The
building has a batter or inclination inwards of 9
inches in every 3 feet in height. The door on the
south-east side is 3J feet high, and 2i feet broad.
In the middle of the wall, on each side of the passage
by the door to the interior, is a small apartment,
about 6 feet square and 5 feet high, as if intended
for a guard to watch the entry. It has been greatly
injured by the wantonness of cow-herds throwing
the materials off the walls into the river. Beyond
this building, and 6 feet from the wall, are the re-
mains of an outer wall which surrounded the castle,
and an oblong garden of 27 yards long and 18 yards
broad. This wall seems to have been joined by
large flags to the wall of the castle, leaving a passage
of 6 feet broad by 7 feet high between the two walls,
where it is said the inhabitants kept their cattle in
the night time. In the face of the rock is an oblong-
seat, where tradition says, Cole used to rest himself,
fronting the meridian sun, and that there he was slain
with an arrow from the bow of an assassin. When
Cole felt the wound, he struck his hand upon the
rock, which made such an impression that it re-
mains there to this day. A ditch appears to have
carried the water of the river round to the land side,
which is now filled up with rubbish.
COLINSBURGH, a thriving village in the par-
ish of Kilconquhar, Fifeshire ; 4 miles east of Kirk-
town of Largo ; 2 north of Ely ; 4 west of Pitten-
<2
COL
24-2
COL
weem; and 10 south of Cupar. The Commercial
bank has an agency here; and justice-of-peace and
circuit small debt courts are held here five times in
the year. It has a weekly corn-market on Wednes-
day, and two annual fairs, on the 2d Friday in June
and October. The road to Anstruther and Crail
passes through it. It contains about 570 inhabitants.
This place is a burgh-of-barony under the Balcarres
family, and received its name from Colin, 3d Earl of
Balcarres. Balcarres house is in the vicinity ; near
it rises Balcarres craig, a rock of 200 feet altitude.
There is a ReUef meeting-house in the village.
Colinsburgh is a remarkably healthy place. Not
long ago there were 18 individuals in its small popu-
lation whose united ages amounted to 1,552 years.
COLINTON, or Collington,* a parish south-
west of Edinburgh, at the base of the Pentland hills,
in Mid Lothian. It is bounded on the north by the
parishes of Corstorphine and St. Cuthberts ; on the
east by the parishes of Libberton and Lasswade ; on
the south by the parishes of Lasswade, Glencorse,
and Pennicuick ; and on the west by the parishes of
Carrie and Corstorphine. Its greatest length from
north to south is about 4 miles ; and its greatest
breadth from east to west about 3| miles. The sur-
face is beautifully varied, descending from the north-
ern range of the northern Pentlands towards the
plain of Corstorphine in diversified and occasionally
bold undulations. Along its southern limit the
Pentlands rise in the different summits 1,450, 1,550,
and 1,700 feet, above the level of the sea; and toward
the north-east are the picturesque heights of the Fir
hill and Craig-Lockhart hill. Over a distance of 3
miles the parish is intersected by the water of Leith,
ploughing its way through well- wooded and romantic
banks, and turning the wheels of numerous water-
mills. Three rivulets or rills also enrich it with
their waters, — Murray-burn, Braid-burn, and Bur-
diehouse-burn. In the 17th century this parish ap-
pears to have been a wild and uncultivated tract ;
and so late as 1709, it contained only 318 examin-
able persons. Now, however, it is in general in a
state of high cultivation, its lands beautifully en-
closed with hedge-rows, and tufted with plantation ;
and even on the acclivity of the Pentlands, at an ele-
vation of 700 feet above the level of the sea, some
lands have recently been rendered arable. The elegant
mansion of Sir John Forbes, Bart., is the principal
seat. The Roman road from York to Camden, near
Abercorn, passed along a section of the parish. In
1666 the Covenanters, marching from the west, spent
the night of the 27th November in the village of
Colinton; and next day marched toward the Pent-
lands, and fought in the skirmish of Rullion-Green.
The village of Colinton is situated on the water
of Leith, near the centre of the parish ; and is the
site of several extensive paper-manufactories, and of
the parish-church. Population of the parish, in 1801,
1,397; in 1831, 2,232. Houses 396. Assessed pro-
perty, in 1815, £13,886. — Colinton is in the pres-
bytery of Edinburgh, and synod of Lothian and
Tweeddale. Patron, Dunlop of Brookloch. Stipend
£207 lis. 3d.; glebe £40; unappropriated tenuis
£207 lis. 3d. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4£d.',
with about £25 or £30 of other emoluments. There
are, besides the parish school, four schools attended
by about 130 children. The parish-church was built
in 1771, repaired in 1817, and enlarged in 1837. It
is situated about a mile from the nearest, and up-
wards of 2lt from the remotest limit of the parish ;
and it is now comfortable and commodious, contain-
ing sittings for about 660 persons. In the small
• The ancient name was Hailse, from the plural nf a Celtic
word which signifies a mound or hillock. A gentleman's resi-
dence on the site of the old church retains the name.
village of Slateford, on the verge of the parish, at
its northern angle, is a United Secession place of
worship, erected in 1784, containing sittings for 520,
and noted as the scene of the early pastoral labours
of the late Dr. John Dick. See Slateford.
COLL, one of the western isles annexed to Ar ■
gyleshire, and making part of the parish of Tiree.
It lies off the western coast of Mull, and is divided
from Tiree by a narrow sound. It is about 14 miles
in length, and 2£ in breadth, on an average; con-
taining 9,999 acres. Assessed property, in 1815,
£7,068. Two-thirds of this extent are hills, rocks,
shifting-sands, lakes, and morasses ; the other third
is pasture, meadow, or corn land. Its surface is
diversified with eminences, and covered with a very
thin stratum of earth, which in many places is want-
ing, so that a grey, stony surface, without herbage
of any kind, presents itself to the eye ; but in other
quarters the sandy soil is covered during spring and
summer with an enamelled carpet of brilliant and
odorous plants. Coll abounds with shallow lakes,
of which several contain trouts and eels. Rabbits
are very numerous. There are a great many black
cattle fed on the island, 200 head of which are
annually exported. The inhabitants employ them-
selves chiefly in fishing and agriculture. Popula-
tion, in 1801, 1,162; in 1834, 1,450. Houses, in
1831, 236 A district church was built here about
37 years ago ; sittings 250. Service is here per-
formed in Gaelic by the assistant-minister, who is
appointed by the minister of the parish, with con-
sent of the proprietor of Coll. Stipend £62 2s.
There is also a catechist officiating in the island.
The Gaelic society have anitinerating school here, and
the General Assembly and Society for propagating
Christian knowledge, have each also schools here. — •
Dr. Johnson visited Coll during his tour in Scotland,
and seems to have been much satisfied with his en-
tertainment. This account of the island is curious,
and is here quoted as illustrative, when compared
with the memoranda of more recent tourists, of the
progress of the western isles : — " We were at Coll,"
says he, "under the protection of the young laird,
without any of the distresses which Mr. Pennant, in a
fit of simple credulity, seems to think almost worthy
of an elegy by Ossian. Wherever we roved, we were
pleased to see the reverence with which his subjects
regarded him. He did not endeavour to dazzle them
by any magnificence of dress ; his only distinction was
a feather in his bonnet; but, as soon as he appeared,
they forsook their work, and clustered about him ;
he took them by the hand, and they seemed mutually
delighted. He has the proper disposition of a chief-
tain, and seems desirous to continue the customs of
his house. The bagpiper played regularly when
dinner was served, whose person and dress made a
good appearance, and he brought no disgrace upon
the family of Rankin, which has long supplied the
lairds of Coll with hereditary music. Life is here,
in some respects, improved beyond the condition of
some other islands. In Skye, what is wanted can
only be bought, as the arrival of some wandering
pedler may afford an opportunity ; but in Coll there
is a standing shop, and in Mull there are two. A
shop in the islands, as in other places of little fre-
quentation, is a repository of every thing requisite
for common use. Mr. Boswell's journal was filled,
and he bought some paper in Coll. To a man that
ranges the streets of London, where he is tempted
to contrive wants for the pleasure of supplying them,
a shop affords no image worthy of attention ; but in
an island it turns the balance of existence between
good and evil. To live in perpetual want of little
things, is a state not indeed of torture, but of con-
stant vexation. I have in Skye had some difficulty
COL
243
COL
to find ink for a letter ; and if a woman breaks her
needle, the work is at a stop. As it is, the islanders
are obliged to content themselves with succedaneous
means for many common purposes. I have seen the
chief man of a very wide district riding with a halter
for a bridle, and governing his hobby with a wooden
curb. The people of Coll, however, do not want
dexterity to supply some of their necessities. Sev-
eral arts which make trades, and demand apprentice-
ships in great cities, are here the practices of daily
economy. In every house candles are made, both
moulded and dipped: their wicks are small shreds of
linen-cloth. They all know how to extract from the
cuddy-fish oil for their lamps. They all tan skins
and make brogues. Of taxes here is no reason for
complaining ; they are paid by a very easy composi-
tion. The malt-tax for Coll is 20s. ; whisky is very
plentiful ; there are several stills in the island, and
more is made than the inhabitants consume. The
great business of insular policy is now to keep the
people in their own country. As the world has
been let in upon them, they have heard of happier
climates and less arbitrary government ; and if they
are disgusted, have emissaries among them ready to
offer them land and houses as a reward for deserting
their chief and clan. Many have departed both from
the main of Scotland and from the islands ; and all
that go may be considered as subjects lost to the
British crown ; for a nation scattered in the bound-
less regions of America resembles rays diverging
from a focus ; all the rays remain, but the heat is
gone ; their power consisted in their concentration ;
when they are dispersed they have no effect. The
inhabitants of Coll have not yet learned to be weary
of their heath and rocks, but attend their agriculture
and their dairies without listening to American se-
ducements. The disposition to pompous and ex-
pensive funerals — which has at one time or other
prevailed in most parts of the civilized world. — is not
yet suppressed in the islands, though some of the
ancient solemnities are worn away, and singers are
no longer hired to attend the procession. Nineteen
years ago, at the burial of the laird of Coll, were
killed 30 cows, and about 50 sheep. Mr. Maclean
informed us of an old game, of which he did not
tell the original, but which may perhaps be used in
other places where the reason of it is not yet forgot.
At New-year's eve, in the hall or castle of the laird,
where, at festal seasons, there may be supposed a
very numerous company, one man dresses himself in
a cow's hide, upon which other men beat with sticks.
He runs with all this noise round the house, which
all the company quit in a counterfeited fright ; the
door is then shut. At New-Year's eve there is no
great pleasure to be had out of doors in the Hebrides.
They are sure soon to recover from their terror
enough to solicit for re-admission ; which, for the
honour of poetry, is not to be obtained but by re-
peating a verse, with which those that are knowing
and provident take care to be furnished Very near
the house of Maclean stands the castle of Coll, which
was the mansion of the laird till the house was built.
It is built upon a rock, as Mr. Boswell remarked,
that it might not be mined. It is very strong, and
having been not long uninhabited, is yet in repair.
On the wall was, not long ago, a stone with an in-
scription, importing, ' That if any man of the clan
of Maclonich ">hall appear before this castle, though
he come at midnight with a man's head in his hand,
he shall there find safety and protection against all
but the king.' This is an old Highland treaty made
upon a very memorable occasion. Maclean, the son
of John Gerves, who recovered Coll, and conquered
Barra, had obtained, it is said, from James II., a
grant of the lands of Lochiel, forfeited, I suppose,
by some offence against the state. Forfeited estates
were not in those days quietly resigned : Maclean,
therefore, went with an armed force to seize his new
possessions, and, I know not for what reason, took
his wife with him. The Camerons rose in defence
of their chief, and a battle was fought at the head
of Loch Ness, near the place where Fort- Augustus
now stands, in which Lochiel obtained the victory,
and Maclean, with his followers, was defeated and
destroyed. The lady fell into the hands of the
conquerors, and being found pregnant, was placed
in the custody of Maclonich, one of a tribe or family
branched from Cameron, with orders, if she brought
a boy, to destroy him, if a girl, to spare her. Mac-
lonich's wife, who was with child likewise, had a
girl about the same time at which Lady Maclean
brought a boy ; and Maclonich, with more generosity
to his captive than fidelity to his trust, contrived
that the children should be changed. Maclean being
thus preserved from death, in time recovered his
original patrimony ; and, in gratitude to his friend,
made his castle a place of refuge to any of the clan
that should think himself in danger ; and, as a proof
of reciprocal confidence, Maclean took upon himself
and his posterity the care of educating the heir of
Maclonich. This story, like all other traditions of
the Highlands, is variously related ; but, though
some circumstances are uncertain, the principal fact
is true. Maclean undoubtedly owed his preserva-
tion to Maclonich ; for the treaty between the two
families has been strictly observed ; it did not sink
into disuse and oblivion, but continued in its full
force while the chieftains retained their power. The
power of protection subsists no longer ; but what
the law permits is yet continued, and Maclean of
Coll now educates the heir of Maclonich. There still
remains in the islands, though it is passing fast away,
the custom of fosterage. He who lives in Coll, and
finds himself condemned to solitary meals and in-
communicable reflection, will find the usefulness of
that middle order of tacksmen, which some, who
applaud their own wisdom, are wishing to destroy.
Without intelligence mail is not social, he is only
gregarious ; and little intelligence will there be,
where all are constrained to daily labour, and every
mind must wait upon the hand." From hence the
travellers were conducted by the young laird of Coll
to Mull, Diva, and Sir Allan Maclean's at Inch-
Kenneth. Dr. Johnson adds: "We now parted
from the young laird of Coll, who had treated us
with so much kindness, and concluded his favours
by consigning us to Sir Allan. Here we had the
last embrace of this amiable man, who, while these
pages were preparing to attest his virtues, perished
in the passage between Ulva and Inch- Kenneth."
COLLACE, a parish in Gowrie, on the north of
the Sidlaw hills, in the shire of Perth. It is bounded
on the north by the parish of Cargill ; on the east
by the parishes of Cargill and Abernyte ; on the
south by the parish of Kinnaird, and an isolated por-
tion of the shire of Angus ; and on the west by the
parish of St. Martin's. It is somewhat upwards of
2 miles in length, and about the same in breadth;
and contains an area of nearly 5 square miles. The
northern division is flat, and consists, in some parts,
of a light black loam, and in others, of sandy and
mossy tracts. The southern division is a rapid ac-
clivity, and rises into a section of the Sidlaw hills
of considerable elevation. These hills, with the
exception of Dunsinnan, are covered with heath :
yet, in their northern declivity, they, in some places,
are under culture, and in others, afford tolerable pas-
turage. All the ground in the lowlands of the par-
ish is in a state of the highest cultivation. [See
Dunsinnan.] In the parish are the villages of
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244
COL
Collace and Kinrossie: Two considerable mar-
kets were formerly held in the latter of these ;
but the village is now nearly abandoned by trade,
and is tenanted chiefly by weavers, and retains only
its ancient market-cross to tell of its departed im-
portance. Population of the parish, in 1801, 562;
in 1831, 730. Houses 141. Assessed property, in
1815, £2,306. — Collace is in the presbytery of Perth,
and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend £155 15s. Id.; glebe £15. Unap-
propriated teinds £68 lis. 5d. Schoolmaster's sal-
ary £34 4s. Ui., with about £30 10s. of other
emoluments. Collace was formerly a rectory. The
present church is a fine Gothic structure, erected in
1813, standing on an elevated spot, surrounded with
plantation, and containing sittings for upwards of
400 persons.
COLLESSIE,* a parish on the north side of 'the
Howe' or vale in the centre of Fifeshire. It is
bounded on the north by a detached part of the par-
ish of Newburgh, and by the parishes of Abdie and
Monimail ; on the east by the parishes of Monimail
and Cult; on the south by the parish of Kettle; and
on the west by the parishes of Falkland and Auch-
termuchty, and a detached part of the parish of
Abernethy. Its extreme measurement is 8 miles in
length, and about 5 miles in breadth. The southern
division is remarkably flat, very various in soil, and
entirely free from stones, great or small. The north-
ern and north-western divisions slope upwards to-
wards a range of heights which form the boundary,
and having a fine southern exposure and a good
deep soil upon a whinstone bottom, are in a state of
high cultivation, and extremely fertile. The central
division is in general light and sandy, and is covered
to the expanse of several square miles with fir-plant-
ations ; and though, on account of its timber, far
from being valueless, has resisted assiduous attempts
to bring it into an improved state. In 1740, Rossie
loch, a sheet of water covering upwards of 300 acres,
was drained ; and its bed is now excellent meadow-
land and pasturage. The river Eden runs for about
3 miles along the margin of the parish, flowing from
west to east, and dividing it from the parishes of
Falkland, Kettle, and Cults. It abounds with fine
trout, but is never here more than 25 feet broad.
Both here and farther on its course, it gives name to
the strath which forms its basin, and glides noise-
lessly along through 'the Howe of Fife.' Formerly,
in spring and autumn, it used to overflow its banks,
and do considerable damage ; but about 1787 it was
diverted along into a straight channel, so as to offer
no repetition of injury to the adjacent property.
Excellent whinstone is found in the parish, and ex-
tensively used in building ; sandstone, though found,
is not worked ; and marl, both shell and clay, is
abundant. The climate is remarkably salubrious.
Not far from the village, on the west, are the re-
mains of two castles, supposed to have been erected
for securing the pass from Newburgh to central
Fifeshiie. Near the eastern one, which was ancient-
ly encompassed by a ditch, have been found coins of
Edward I. of England, struck in mints at London,
Canterbury, and York, as well as an urn containing
human bones, and various relics of antiquity. Among
the eminent men connected with Collessie, were Sir
James Melville, who figured as a courtier in the
reign of Mary, and was the proprietor of an estate
in this parish, — and Dr. Hugh Blair, who commenced
his ministry here, and was inducted to it in Septem-
ber, 1742. The village of Collessie is situated about
• The ancient as well as the modern name, so far as can be
ascertained, is Collessie, and appears to have been derived
from the Gaelic; Col, in that language, signifying a bottom,
and lassie, a den, or hollow ; and the village of Collessie being
situated at the bottom of a glen.
a mile south of the northern angle of the parish, a
little northward of the road from Auchtermuchty to
Cupar. It is a confused agglomeration of thatched
houses, and a place of small importance. About a
mile to the west of it is the modern hamlet of Tra-
falgar inn. Population of the parish, in 1801, 930;
in 1831, 1,162. Houses 242. Assessed property, in
1815, £6,490. — Collessie is in the presbytery of
Cupar and synod of Fife. Patron, Johnston of
Lathrisk. Stipend £223 4s. 9d. ; glebe £15. Un-
appropriated teinds £367 18s. 4d. Schoolmaster's
salary £35 12s. 10jd., with about £30 of other
emoluments. There are three schools besides the
parish school. Collessie was formerly a vicarage.
The parochial church is a very old building.
COLLISTOWN and Old-Castle, two adjacent
fishing-villages in Aberdeenshire, in the parish of
Slains, containing together about 430 inhabitants.
COLMONELL, a parish in the district of Car-
rick, Ayrshire ; bounded on the north by the frith of
Clyde ; on the east by Girvan and Bar : on the
south by Minnigaff, Penningham, and Kirkcowan ;
and on the west by Ballantrae. It is 19^ miles in
length, and on average 6 in breadth. From the sea,
for 4 miles inland, the surface is hilly ; the rest of
the parish, though elevated, is pretty level. The
soil is thin and fight; on the banks of the Stinchar,
and some of its tributary streams, it is loamy and
fertile. Assessed property, in 1815, £9,029. There
are several small lakes. One of the hills, called
Knockdolian, rising in a conical shape to a consider-
able height, is a conspicuous landmark to vessels
when they enter the frith of Clyde. A great part
of the parish is enclosed, and agriculture is now
much attended to. The village of Colmonell is a
neat thriving place, with four annual fairs. Popu-
lation 300. It is on the north bank of the Stinchar ;
5 miles above Ballantrae Craigneil is a fine ruined
fortalice of the 13th century. There are a number
of ancient forts and cairns, concerning the' erection
of which tradition itself does not even hazard a con-
jecture Population, in 1801, 1,306; in 1831, 2,213;
of whom l,619belongedtothe Establishment. Houses
in 1831, 402 This parish is in the presbytery of
Stranraer, and synod of Galloway. Patron, the
Duchess de Ovigny. Stipend £256 18s. 9d. ; glebe
£15. Unappropriated teinds £260 16s. lid. Church
built in 1772; sittings 500 There is a Reformed
Presbyterian congregation in the village ; and a cha-
pel in connexion with the Establishment at the vil-
lage of Barrhill, which is nearly in the centre of the
parish, with a population of 100; also an Original
Seceder congregation, established about 1760 ; church
built in 1800. Stipend £50, with a manse and gar-
den.— Schoolmaster's salary £34 12s. 4'd., with
about £20 fees. There are 5 private schools.
COLONSAY, one of the Hebrides, belonging to
Argyleshire. As it is separated from Oronsay only
by a narrow sound, which is dry at low water, we
may almost consider these two as one island. They
lie nearly 9 miles north by west of the northern ex-
tremity of Islay ; and from the south end of Oronsay to
the north end of Colonsay, are 12 miles long, and from
1 to 3 broad. The surface is unequal, having a con-
siderable number of rugged hills covered with heath ;
but none of the eminences deserve the name of moun-
tains. They contain about 9,000 acres, of which
3,000 are arable. The soil is light, and along the
shore it inclines to sand, producing early and toler-
able crops. " The first sight of Colonsay is very
unpromising, and would not lead a traveller to ex-
pect the fertile and pretty extensive valleys which
he meets with in traversing the island. Although
there are no hills of any consequence, or which ex-
ceed an elevation of 800 feet above the level of the
COL
245
COL
sea, yet their tops are bare and weather-beaten, and
convey the idea of hopeless barrenness and desola-
tion. These hills are scattered irregularly over the
island ; and, in fact, it is from the decomposition of
their materials that the soil of the valleys is formed,
and it is their shelter which affords warmth and fer-
tility to the cultivated grounds. The soil is various.
In some parts, especially at the two extremities, and
in some bays on the west side, it is light and sandy ;
then alternates with moorish or mossy ground, clay,
gravel, loam, or till; but, as Dean Monroe says, it
is ' ane fertile isle ' upon the whole, and has of late
years by good management made a conspicuous figure
among the improved Hebrides. Black talc — the
Mica lamellate, Martialis nigra of Cronsted — is found
here, both in large detached flakes, and immersed in
indurated clay; also rockstone formed of glimmer
and quartz ; and an imperfect granite is not unfre-
quent. The dip of the rocks is from south-west to
north-east, as is very often the case in the adjacent
isles." [Macdonald s ' General View of the He-
brides.' London, 1811, 8vo., p. 640.] The breed
of cattle is excellent. Near the centre of Colonsay
is a fresh water loch called Loch Fad. The remains
of several Romish chapels are to be seen in Colon-
say, where was also a monastery of canons regular
of St. Augustine, founded by the Lord of the Isles,
who brought the monks from Holyroodhouse. The
remains of the abbey were taken down some years
ago in erecting a farm-house. The priory of this
monastery, the walls of which. — about 60 feet by 18
— are still standing, is in Oronsay; and, next to
Icolmkill, is esteemed the finest relic of religious
antiquity in the Hebrides. The remains of these
ruins are very interesting, but no accounts are re-
maining of their revenues or establishments. Martin
says: " There is an altar in this church, and there
has been a modem crucifix on it, in which several
precious stones were fixed ; the most valuable of
these is now in the custody of Mac-Duffie, in Black
Raimused village, and it is used as a catholicon for
diseases. There are several burying-places here,
and the tombstones, for the most part, have a two-
handed sword engraven on them. On the south
side of the church within, lie the tombs of Mac-
Duffie, and of the cadets of his family; there is a
ship under sail, and a two-handed sword engraven
on the principal tombstone, and this inscription,
'Hie jacit Malcolumbus Mac-Duffie de Collonsay:'
his coat-of-arms and colour-staff is fixed in a stone,
through which a hole is made to hold it. There is
a cross at the east and west sides of this church,
which are now broken; their height was about 12
feet each : there is a large cross on the west side of
the church, of an entire stone, very hard ; there is
a pedestal of three steps, by which they ascend to
it; it is 16 feet high, and a foot-and-a-half broad.
There is a large crucifix on the west side of this
cross; it has an inscription underneath, but not legi-
ble, being almost worn off by the injury of time ;
the other side has a tree engraven on it. About a
quarter of a mile on the south side of the church
there is a cairn, in which there is a stone cross fixed,
called Mac-Duffle's cross; for when any of the heads
of this family were to be interred, their corpses were
laid on this cross for some moments, in their way
toward the church. The natives of Collonsay are
accustomed, after their arrival in Oronsay isle, to
make a tour sunways about the church, before they
enter upon any kind of business. My landlord hav-
ing one of his family sick of a fever, asked my book,
as a singular favour, for a few moments. I was not
a little surprised at the honest man's request, he
being illiterate : and when he told me the reason of
it, I was no less amazed, for it was to fan the patient's
face with the leaves of the book: and this he did at
night. He sought the book next morning, and again
in the evening, and then thanked me for so great a
favour : and told me, the sick person was much bet-
ter by it ; and thus I understood that they had an
ancient custom of fanning the face of the sick with
the leaves of the Bible." Population, in 1801, 80S;
in 1831, 893 These islands are parochially con-
nected with Jura, and are under the charge of an
assistant-minister in Colonsay. Church built in
1802; sittings 400. Stipend £50. There is a
school of the society for propagating Christian know-
ledge, attended by about 50 children.
COLONSAY (Little), a small island of the
Hebrides, situated betwixt Staffa and Gometra. It
in many places exhibits specimens of basaltic pillars
similar to those of Staffa, and is inhabited by one
family, who look after a few sheep.
COLVEND,* a parish on the coast of Kirkcud-
brightshire. It is of an irregular elliptical figure ;
and forms on the south a sort of peninsula, protrud-
ing, from the boundary waters of the Urr and the
Southwick, onward into the sea. It is bounded on
the north, by the parishes of Kirkgunzeon and New-
abbey ; on the east by the parish of Kirkbean ; on
the south-east, south, and south-west, by the sea;
and on the west by the estuary and the parish of
Urr, and the parish of Kirkgunzeon. Its greatest
length, from Tkorter-Fell on the north to Castle-
Hill Old Fort on the south, is nearly 9 miles ; and
its greatest breadth, from Torrcrie meeting-house on
the east to the confluence of Shennan creek an<j
Urr water on the west, is "i miles. The surface is
extremely rough and irregular; and is in general
wild, hilly, and merely pastoral. Much labour has
been employed to overcome the obstacles of heath
and rock; and, meeting occasionally with a good
substratum of soil, it has been rewarded in the sub-
jugation of valuable patches to the plough. But a
constant undulation of rugged hills seems to forbid
extensive improvement. Along the northern verge
the heights are considerably elevated, and form sum-
mits of the range which terminates in the far-seeing
mountain of Criffel, at the northern limit of the con-
terminous parish of Kirkbean. The sea-coast is
extremely bold and rocky, rising up in almost per-
pendicular precipices, and presenting a variety of
grand and magnificent views. The sea or Solway
frith, which intervenes between it and Cumberland,
is here 9 or 10 miles wide. When the tide ebbs,
it leaves dry a large tract of flat sand, from which
may be viewed, along the coast, high and pointed
spires, perforated at the base with natural tunnels :
there may also be seen spacious amphitheatres, and
entrances to caverns so spacious as to have been
hitherto unexplored. Toward the east, however,
approaching the mouth of Southwick water, the
coast becomes entirely flat. Urr water, so far as it
bounds the parish, is an estuary ; being 3 furlongs
broad where it comes in contact with it, and 2 miles
where it leaves it for the sea. See Urr. Shennan
creek rises within the limits of the parish, and, near
its source, begins to form the boundary line, for one
mile, till its confluence with the Urr. Southwick
water, receiving a number of tributaries which flow
from the northern heights of the parish, and traverse
its central district, forms, for a considerable way, its
boundary on the east. Other streams, of small size
and local origin, intersect the district from north to
south, and flow into the sea. There are, in the
western division, 5 lakes, 3 of which are severally
w The ancient name appears to have been Culvven, — derived
from Joannes de Culweu, the ancestor of the family of Curwec
in Cumberland, who married a daughter of the Stuarts, Lorda
of Galloway.
COL
246
COM
about balf-a-mile in length. Colvend, according to
tradition, was once a continuous forest; and it is
still tufted, in some spots, with natural wood, as
well as with recent plantation. At Fairgarth, near
the centre of the parish, is a copious spring of excel-
lent water, arched over, and called St. Laurence
well ; and near it are the vestiges of a chapel, sur-
rounded by a burying-ground, now occupied as a
barn-yard. At the south-west corner of the parish,
on a lofty promontory, are traces of what appears to
have been a Danish fort, the fosse of which is still
very apparent. Population, inl801, ],106; in 1831,
1,358. Houses 262. Assessed property, in 1815,
£5,600.. — Colvend is one of 10 parishes which,
though within the shire of Kirkcudbright, are in
the presbytery, synod, and commissariat of Dumfries.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend .£234 14s. 6d. ; glebe
£20. Unappropriated teinds £234 14s. 6d. There
are 2 parochial, and 2 private schools. The first
parochial schoolmaster's salary is £31 6s. 6|d., with
about £30 fees; and that of the second, £20, with
about £17 or £18 additional emoluments. The
suppressed parish of Southwick is incorporated with
Colvend, and sometimes occasions the united parishes
to be designated Colvend and Southwick. It formed
the eastern division of the district. Though the
ruins of its church still exist in a very romantic small
strath about a mile north-west of the embouchure
of Southwick water, not a tradition remained, even
before the close of last century, of any circumstance
relating to it as a separate charge. The present
parochial church is situated about a mile from the
south-west limit of the parish, and is large and com-
modious. Colvend was formerly a vicarage ; but
Southwick church belonged to the Benedictine nun-
nery of Lincluden.
COLZEAN CASTLE— sometimes written Cul-
zean or Cullean — a noble mansion in the parish of
Kirkoswald, the seat of the Marquess of Ailsa,
founded by David, 10th Earl of Cassillis, in 1777.
This noble castellated edifice is situated upon a
basaltic cliff projecting into the sea, of about 100
feet in height, and almost perpendicular. The plan
and design were by Robert Adam ; and such is the
style of the architecture, the execution of the work,
and the beauty of the stone, that, more than any
other building in Ayrshire, it impresses the mind
with ideas of elegance, order, and magnificence. At
a short distance from the castle stand the stables
and farm-houses, planned by the same architect, and
executed upon the same scale. The entire build-
ings, with the bridge of approach to the castle, cover
four acres of ground. The castle commands, from
the principal apartments, a delightful prospect of the
whole frith of Clyde, with a full view of the rock of
Ailsa. On the land side, and immediately below
the castle, are the fine gardens belonging to the old
house of Colzean, formed in three terraces, and long
celebrated for their beauty and productiveness. The
remainder of the old gardens has been formed into
pleasure-grounds and gravel walks, which are kept
with great care. Round the castle, and the adjoin-
ing buildings, lies an extensive policy of about 700
acres, interspersed with ancient trees and thriving
plantations. Near to the castle, and immediately
under some of the buildings, are the Coves of Col-
zean. These coves or caves are six in number. Of
the three towards the west, the largest has its entry
as low as high water mark ; the roof is about 50
feet high, and has the appearance as if two large
rocks had fallen together, forming an irregular Gothic
arch. It extends inwards about 200 feet, and varies
in breadth. It communicates with the other two,
which are both considerably less, but of the same
irregular form. Towards the east are the other
three coves, which likewise communicate with each
other. They are nearly of the same height and
figure with the former. It has been matter of dis-
pute whether these coves are natural or artificial.
The largest of the three westmost coves has a door,
or entry, built of freestone, with a window three
feet above the door, of the same kind of work; and
above both these, there is an apartment, from which
stones and other missiles might be hurled on the
assailants of the door. This last circumstance seems
to indicate that at least this part of the coves has
been at one period or another the abode of man.
COMRIE, a large parish in the county of Perth,
bounded by Killin, a detached part of Weem, and
Kenmore on the north ; by Monzie, Monievaird,
Strowan, and Muthil, on the east ; by Muthil, part
of Strowan, and Callander on the south ; and by
Balquhidder and Killin on the west. It is about 16
miles long and 12 broad. It consists of the strath
at the head of Strathearn, and of four glens, with
rivulets which pour their waters into the Earn.
The soil in the low grounds is in general light
and gravelly; but in some parts, especially in the
glens, it is deeper, and swampy. On the sides of
the strath, to the east of Lochearn, and even along
the loch itself, is a continued ridge of hills, some
of them elevated to a great height. The principal
rivers are the Earn, and the Lednock : which see.
Loch Earn lies wholly within this parish : see also
that article. The hilly part is covered with flocks
of sheep. Few districts afford more variety of wild
Highland scenery than Comrie. There is a good
slate-quarry near the forest of Glenartney; and an
excellent limestone quarry at the west end of Loch-
earn. There are the remains of three Druidical
temples, and the distinct profile of a Roman camp,
occupying 16 acres, in the plain of Dalginross, in
the neighbourhood of Comrie.* Near Lochearn, on
the north side of the river, is Duneira, an elegant
hunting-seat of Viscount Melville. Population, in
1801, 2,458; in 1831, 2,622. Houses 438. Be-
sides the village of Comrie, there are the adjacent
villages of Dalginross, with a population, in 1834,
of 337 ; and Ross, with a population of 154 ; and
the village of St. Fillan's : which see.
Comrie is delightfully situated on the left or
north bank of the Earn, near the junction of the
Lednock, over which is a substantial stone bridge
at this place. It is 6^ miles west of Crieff; 12| east
of Lochearnhead ; and 1 1 north-east of Callander by
Glenartney. It is a thriving place, and consists of a
street about two-thirds of a mile in length, a large
distillery, and a woollen manufactory ; and carries
on a considerable trade in cotton weaving. The
* This 19 supposed by some antiquaries — amongst whom
is Gordon — to mark the site of the battle fought betwixt Agri-
cola aod Galgacus. " Au old translator of Kapiu's History of
Etiyland, says in hiB notes, that the battle was fought within
a mile of the church of Comrie. Mr. Alexander Gordon, an
intelligent antiquarian, who examined all the north oi Scot-
land, published his researches in 1726. In this work, he endea-
vours to prove, that Dalginross-moor was the real field of
battle. In plate 5, we have a distinct draught of both camps,
especially of the largest. How much the inundations of the
Ruehill have diminished the other, cannot now be fully ascer-
tained ; but nearly one-half seems to have been taken away.
No place in the Highlands of Scotland could be more fit for a
great and general engagement, than that extensive plain,
Which tradition still points out as the scene of a bloody battle.
Tacitus says, that Agricola placed the legions before the
trenches, thinking it would mightily add to his glory, if he
could gain a victory without the effusion of Roman blood.
Gordon thinks that 8,000 foot, and 3,000 horse, were encamped
in Dalginross ; and he declares, that the two camps would ex-
actly contain that number. The same historian asserts, that
10,000 fell on each side ; that Agricola retired with his army to
Angus (Fife). But, under whatever circumstances, it is cer-
tain no Roman general or army ever visited the moor of Dal-
ginross a second time." [From Sketches in MS. by the late
Kev. Mr. M'Diannid of Comrie.] Pennant also has given a
plan and description of this camp.
COMRIE.
247
parish-church is a large and handsome building,
with a lofty spire. Population, in 1834, 978. There
are here a savings bank and subscription library. It
has rive annual fairs, viz. on 3d Wednesday in March,
2d Wednesday in May and July, 8th November, and
1st Wednesday in December. There is a fine granite
obelisk, 72 feet in height, erected to the memory of
the late Lord Melville on Dunmore, in the neigh-
bourhood of this village. — This parish is in the
presbytery of Auchterarder, and synod of Perth.
It comprises the old parishes of Comrie and Dun-
durn, the greater part of Tulliekettle, together with
portions of Muthil, Monievaird, and Strowan, which
were annexed in 1702 by the commission of teinds.
At the same time a portion of the parish was an-
nexed, quoad sacra, to Balquhidder. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend £250 9s. Id.; glebe £15 10s.
Church built in 1804; sittings 1,026. There is a
chapel-of-ease at Dundurn, which was rebuilt in
1770, and renovated in 1834; sittings 400. It is 7
miles distant from the manse. The minister has a
salary of £60. English is the language most gen-
erally understood in this parish ; but there are
Gaelic services at both the church and chapel
There is a United Secession church at Comrie,
with sittings for 500. Minister's stipend £90, with
manse and garden. Schoolmaster's salary £34 12s.
4'Jd., with about £45 fees. There were 8 private
schools in 1834.
The village of Comrie enjoys the unenviable dis-
tinction of being more frequently visited by earth-
quakes, and subterranean noises and convidsions,
than any other spot in the British isles. The great-
est shock ever experienced here occurred on the
evening of October 23d, 1839, about 14 minutes past
10 o'clock. It was felt over a great part of the island,
but nowhere so violently as at Comrie and the adja-
cent districts. A reporter at Monzie — a gentleman's
seat a few miles from Comrie — thus describes what
was experienced at that place and its neighbour-
hood : — " At thirteen minutes past ten in the even-
ing we heard a sound like that of a numerous body
of cavalry approaching at full gallop along a grassy
sward. When this had continued a few seconds,
we felt two or more abrupt concussions, as if a
solid mass of earth had struck against a body more
ponderous than itself, and rebounded. The rattling
of furniture combined with the subterranean thun-
der, and the reeling of what we had hitherto deemed
terra firma, communicated at this moment a feeling
of the terrific that must have made the stoutest
heart quail. The sound passed off as before, far
to the east, carrying fear into other districts. In
a number of houses the bells rang ; one house of
three stories, situated in Crieff, has been rent from
the chimney-top half-way down the gable ; and we
have heard that a number of corn-stacks have been
thrown down. At Comrie the consternation was
such that the people ran out of their houses, and,
late as was the hour, many assembled for prayer in
the Secession meeting-house, where religious exer-
cises were continued until 3 in the morning. There
was a second shock at 20 minutes to 1 1 o'clock ; and
a third somewhat later, but both inferior to the first. "
Mr. David Mylne, in a paper read before the Royal
Society of Edinburgh, states that this shock was
perceived in all the central and southern parts of
Scotland, and extended to the north, as far as Ding-
wall on the east coast, and Appin on the west ; and
that it, as well as several preceding shocks, emanated
from one central point situated about 2 miles north-
west of Comrie. There appeared to have been pro-
bably two undulations, and certainly one consisting
of an interior swell and a posterior hollow, which
caused houses situated on soft or hollow ground to
rock like boats on the swell of the sea. The velo-
city of the undulation must have been immense, as
it occurred throughout the whole country to which
it reached at one and the same instant. Houses
situated on rock were not so sensibly affected, and
the shocks were in all cases felt more in the upper
than in the lower flats. The shocks were trans-
mitted to greater distances in the direction of east-
north-east from Comrie than in other directions.
Mr. Mylne is of opinion that these phenomena are
caused by fractures or ruptures in the earth's crust
at a great depth. He considers that the phenomena
can be better explained on this assumption, than by
supposing — as many philosophers do — that the earth's
crust is floating on molten lava. The vibrations
caused by those subterranean ruptures, would rise
vertically as well as obliquely upwards, and create
at some places the sensation of the shock coming
directly from below, and at others of its moving for-
ward along the surface. As to the cause of these rup-
tures, and their frequent occurrence near Comrie,
Mr. Mylne is of opinion that the earth's crust is
there intersected by great lines of fractures ; that
these lines are nearly parallel east-north-east ; and
that there have been frequent outbursts of igneous
rocks in them. It appeared that for a month before
the commencement of the earthquakes, and for some-
time after they were perceived, an almost unprece-
dented quantity of rain had fallen in Perthshire,
notwithstanding which it was observed of the Earn,
the Airdle, and other streams near Strathearn, that
they were not flooded as might have been expected.
The fact of these earthquakes being in some way
connected with the rain is rendered probable by the
fact that, in former years, they have been almost
always preceded by rainy weather, and it is known
that if water has percolated to the depth of one mile-
and-a-half into the earth's crust, it will, in conse-
quence of the subterranean heat, generate steam
which might cause ruptures. It was further shown,
that for a month before the commencement of the
earthquakes, the atmospherical pressure was less
than it had been for several years ; whereby any
volcanic forces beneath would be enabled to press or
push towards the earth's crust with unusual effect,
and thus facilitate the percolation of water in its
fissures Another but apparently less tenable theory
of these phenomena has been propounded by an in-
genious resident in Comrie, Mr. James Drummond.
He is of opinion that the central point from which
the various shocks have hitherto appeared to pro-
ceed is on the banks of the Lednock, a little to
the north of Comrie, at a place where consi-
derable excavations have been made, and from
which a quantity of the stones — with which the
village of Comrie is built — have been taken. Ac-
cording to Mr. Drummond, the earthquakes are in-
timately connected with the overflowing of the Led-
nock, and, in particular, are dependent on the cir-
cumstance of the spot which he considers the centre
of the shocks being laid under water. He states
that the commencement of the earthquakes towards
the end of last century corresponds with the time at
which the excavations on the spot in question had
been brought to a level with the stream, and were
immediately preceded by a considerable flood. So
far as he has been able to learn, every earthquake
which has taken place here has been preceded by floods.
This was the case as to the earthquakes of 1839.
It was the case in those which took place about 1 2
years ago ; and it was also the case in the first earth-
quakes with which the village was visited. His idea
is, that the power which occasions the earthquake is
of the nature of galvanism ; and in order to prove
his point, he states that the rocks at the point
CON
248
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where the excavations already referred to, have been
made, are composed of large blocks of granite,
separated by a sandy porous substance, and are
placed over each other exactly after the manner of a
galvanic pile. The only way, therefore, in which the
water of the flood can produce the extraordinary
effects which have been lately experienced, Mr.
Drummond maintains, is by supposing that the
water, after sinking into the porous veins, converts
the entire mass of the rock into one immense gal-
vanic battery, which, by and by, becoming fully
charged, gives forth shocks powerful enough to
shake the whole country around.
CON (Loch'), or Chon, a lake in the parish of
Aberfoyle, forming one of the series of lochlets, in the
vale of Aberfoyle, which discharge their waters into
Loch Ard. It is about 2 miles to the west of Upper
Loch Ard. Its length is somewhat more than 2 miles ;
and its breadth about 1 . It is bounded on the south
by a precipitous mountain, finely fringed towards the
west with aged birches, and on the north with
woods of ash and oak. There is a heronry on a
small island in this lake.
CONAN (The), a river in Ross-shire, which
rises in a small lake called Loch Chroisk or Chroisg,
in the parish of Contin, about 35 miles north-west of
its mouth. It flows eastwards from its source
through Strathbran ; and after receiving the Gradie
from Loch Fannich, flows into Loch Luichart or
Lichart ; issuing thence, it is precipitated over a
ledge of rock, and flows in a south-east direction,
and receives the Meig or Meag flowing from Loch
Benachan north-eastwards through Strathcoran ; 5
miles below this it receives, on the north side, the
Garve, which rises on the confines of Lochcross, and
flows east-south-east; 2^ miles east of its junction
with the Garve, while sweeping in a semicircular
form round the finely-wooded grounds of Castle-
Brachan, it receives the Orrin from the south-west;
and then turning north, at Conan house, flows into
the western extremity of the frith of Cromarty. Its
breadth at its mouth is about 50 yards, but it is
comparatively shallow here, although throughout
much of its course it is a deep dark-coloured stream.
The Conan is a fine trouting-stream, and there are
valuable salmon-fisheries upon it. All the Strath-
bran lakes — which are very numerous — are cele-
brated for the sport which they afford to anglers.
Li the Conan is found the river-mussel, the Mya
margaritifera of Linnsus ; and fine pearls have oc-
casionally been obtained from them.
CONAN (Bridge of), a village 2| miles south
of Dingwall : so named from a stone bridge of five
arches, with a water-way of 265 feet, which was here
erected over the Conan by the parliamentary com-
missioners in 1809, at an expense of .£6,854 ; and
over which the road from Beauly to Dingwall is
carried.
CONNAL FERRY, a narrow channel of Loch-
Etive; 3 miles from Dunstaffnage. A ridge of
rugged and uneven rocks here runs across two-thirds
of the channel, and occasions, at certain periods of
the ebbing or flowing tide, such a rapid current
that no vessel even with a fresh breeze can stem it.
In the beginning of the flood, the tide runs up with
great rapidity, and Loch-Etive being at once swelled
with the spring-tide from the ocean, and the water
of Loch- Awe, as soon as the former begins to ebb,
discharges itself with a violence and noise unequalled
by the loudest cataract, and which may be heard at
the distance of many miles. This celebrated fall of
salt water seems to be alluded to by Ossian : —
"These are not thy mountain?, O Nathos!
Nor i8 that the roar of thy climbing waves.
The ferry of Connal, though in appearance very
formidable, is safe, owing to the skill of the boat-
men.
CONNICAVEL. See Edenkeiixie.
CONTIN,* a parish in the centre of Ross-shire.
It is bounded on the north by Lochbroom ; on the
east by Urray and Fodderty ; on the south by Kil-
morack and Urray ; and on the west by Gairloch and
Lochcarron. It measures, along the parUanientary
road which passes through it, 33 miles ; and it is
supposed to be little less in breadth ; so that, as to
extent of area, it is one of the largest parishes in
Scotland. It is, in general, mountainous and bar-
ren; yet imbosoms numerous glens and valleys,
which are well-watered, and, though of light and
shallow soil, are in good cultivation. The principal
streams are the Conan, the Meig, and the Rasay,
which rise near the western or north-western verge
of the parish, and all traverse it eastward, to make
a junction, and fall, under the name of the Conan,
into Cromarty frith, a few miles from the town of
Dingwall : See Conan. Perennial springs are abun-
dant ; and several are strongly impregnated with
iron. Lakes are numerous, — most of them mossy in
their waters, but all abounding with fish. Loch
Fannich is 12 miles long, and 1 broad ; Loch Chroisg,
5 miles long, and 1 broad ; Loch Luichart, 6 miles
long, and J mile broad. Loch Achilty is about 2
miles in circumference, pure in its waters, very deep,
and discharging its surplus contents by a subterra-
nean canal into the river Rasay, about a mile to the
north-east. In this lake is an artificial island, ac-
cessible by a drawbridge, and formerly the site of a
house and garden, which were used as a retreat from
danger. Loch Kinellan has also an artificial or float-
ing island, buoyant on a timber base, where formerly
the family of Seaforth had a fortified residence; and
it contrasts the green cultivated field on one of its
sides very picturesquely with the wild upland
scenery on the other. At one period, natural planta-
tion appears to have covered the greater part of this
parish ; and even yet it exists in considerable patches.
All the straths are subject to wasteful inundations ;
and the climate, though generally mild and dry, is
insalubrious. On the eastern bank of Loch Acliilty
is a Druidical temple, or circle of stones; and a
quarter of a mile to the east of Loch Kinellan is a
place called Blar' nan Ceann, or ' the field of heads. '
where there was a fierce conflict between the Mae-
kenzies of Seaforth, and the Macdonnells of Glen-
garry,— the Macdonnells having made an inroad to
revenge some old quarrel, and being routed and
pursued with great slaughter by the Mackenzies,
and eventually driven headlong into the water and
drowned at the confluence of the Conan and the
Rasay. On the farm of Kinellan is an echo which
repeats distinctly an entire sentence, and is believed
to be unequalled, except by an echo in Wales, and
another in Staffa: see Staffa. At Coul, in the
eastern section of the parish, is an elegant mansion,
the seat of Sir George Mackenzie, Bart., built in
1821, and surrounded by a beautiful well- wooded
demesne. At Contin inn, on the Rasay, fairs are
held on 13th January, O. S. ; on 23d May, O. S.;
and on 23d August, if a Wednesday, if not, on the
Wednesday after ; and here there is a ferry across
the river ; and about 3 miles to the west, at a place
called Little Seatwell, is a ferry across the Conan.
—Population, in 1801, 1,944; in 1831, 2,023.
Houses 430. Assessed property, in 1815, .£3,481 —
* The name is supposed to be derived from the Gaelic Con.
tuinn, signifying 'the Meeting of the waters,' and alluding to
the forkuigs of the river Kasay which here form a smalt island
immemonally the possession and residence of the pnrish-
minister.
CON
249
COR
Contin, formerly a vicarage, is in the presbytery of
Dingwall, and synod of Ross. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend .£265 6s. 7d. ; glebe £16. Schoolmaster's
salary .£30, with about £10 fees. Besides the
parochial school, there is one supported by a society,
and another supported by the parishioners. The
parochial church, situated about 2 miles from the
eastern verge of the parish, is an antiquated, com-
fortless structure, repeatedly repaired, but continuing
to be incommodious. Two parliamentary churches
are in the parish, — one at Ceanloch-Luichart,
erected in 1825, — and the other in Strathconnon.
CONVETH. See Kiltarlity.
COPAY, one of the Hebrides, in the shire of In-
verness. It constitutes part of the parish of Harris,
and is situated in the sound. It is uninhabited.
COPENSAY, or Copinsha, one of the Orkneys,
and part of the parish of Deerness. This island is
about a mile long, and half-a-mile broad. In the
summer-months, its lofty rocks are covered with
wild fowl of various kinds, which, with their eggs
and feathers, constitute the principal article of its
traffic. Copensay is in N. lat. 58° 55', and W. long.
2° 26'. Population, in 1821, 10; in 1831, 7.
COQUET (The), a river, whose sources, course,
and embouchure, are all in England, but which
forms, for about a mile, the south-east boundary
line of the parish of Oxnam in Roxburghshire. It
rises a little to the south of this parish, in the heights
which divide Scotland from England, and afterwards
glides along the margin of its southern wing ; but it
then bends away eastward into Northumberland,
and after traversing that county and receiving nu-
merous tributaries, falls into the sea at Alnwick.
COREHOUSE. See The Clyde.
CORGARF, or Cuegarf, a wild mountainous
district in the upper part, of the parish of Strathden,
about 8 or 9 miles in length, and well-known to
sportsmen for its excellent shootings. There is a
missionary stationed here, who has under his charge
about 690 people ; a considerable proportion of the
inhabitants of the district are Roman Catholics.
Church built in 1836 ; sittings 350. The mission is
supported by Royal bounty Corgarf castle, sup-
posed to have been originally built by one of the
Earls of Mar, is a military station on the road from
Edinburgh to Fort-George ; 21 J miles distant from
Castleton of Braemar. The present erection is a
small oblong building of four stories, with wings,
and surrounded by a wall. It was purchased by
Government from Forbes of Skellater, in 1746. The
old castle of Corgarf, which stood on the same site,
was burnt by Sir Adam Gordon in 1551, when 27
persons, among whom were the wife and children
of Alexander Forbes, perished in the flames : — " Sub-
sequent to this tragical affair, a meeting for recon-
ciliation took place between a select number of the
heads of the two houses, in the hall of an old castle
in these parts, probably Drimminor. After much
argument, the difference being at length made up,
and a reconciliation effected, both parties sat down
to a feast in the hall, provided by the Forbes's chief.
The eating was ended, and the parties were at their
drink — the clansmen being of equal numbers, and so
mixed, as had been arranged, that, every Forbes had
a Gordon seated at his right hand. ' Now,' said
Gordon of Huntly to his neighbour chief, ' as this
business has been so satisfactorily settled, tell me if
it had not been so, what it was your intention to
have done.' ' There would have been bloody work
— bloody work,' said Lord Forbes — 'and?fe would
have had the best of it. I will tell you : see, we
are mixed one and one, Forbeses and Gordons. I
had only to give a sign by the stroking down of my
beard, thus, and every Forbes was to have drawn
the skein from under his left arm, and stabbed to tba
heart his right hand man ;' and as he spoke, he suited
the sign to the word, and stroked down his flowing
beard. ' God Almighty 1' exclaimed Huntly, ' what
is this?' — for in a moment a score of skeins were out,
and flashing in the light of the pine-torches held be-
hind the guests. In another moment they were
buried in as many hearts ; for the Forbeses, wliose
eyes constantly watched their chief, mistaking this
involuntary motion in the telling of his story, for the
agreed sign of death, struck their weapons into the
bodies of the unsuspecting Gordons. The chiefs
looked at each other in silent consternation. At
length Forbes said, ' This is a sad tragedy we little
expected — but what is done, cannot be undone, and
the blood that now flows on the floor of Drimminor
will just help to sloaken the auld fire of Corgarf! ' "
■ — Picken's ' Traditionary Stories of Old Families.'
CORKINDALE-LAW, a hill, or range of hills
rather, in the parish of Neilston, Renfrewshire,
which rises to about 850 feet above sea level, and
commands a fine view of the dale and the frith of
Clyde.
CORNCAIRN, a village, and burgh-of-barony,
in the parish of Ordiquhill, Banffshire. The Corn-
hill markets are held in the neighbourhood of this
village.
C0RPACH, a village in the parish ot Kilmalie,
Inverness-shire ; 24 miles north of Fort- William ;
at the southern extremity of the Caledonian canal.
The parish-church is situated here; and there is a
school supported by the General Assembly.
CORRA-LINN. See The Clyde.
CORRAN-ARDGOUR, a ferry across the mouth
of Loch Eil, where it branches off from the Linne
loch. There is a strong current here.
CORRIE,* an ancient parish, now comprehended
in the parish of Hutton, Dumfries-shire. There are
now no traces of a place of worship at Corrie, except
the hurying-ground. In 1727 the sum of £280 was
bequeathed to Corrie by Edward Moffat of Exeter,
a native of this parish, as a salary for a schoolmaster
here. To this bequest another sum of £20 per
annum was added in 1820, by a grand-nephew of the
original endower, and the heritors also have added a
sum of £8 6s. 8d. annually The ancient tower of
Lun, situated on the water of Milk at Corrie-mains,
was formerly a place of great strength ; but has pro-
bably been little inhabited since the family of John-
stone acquired the estate of Corrie, by marriage with
the daughter of Sir Thomas Corrie. There are still
some remains of a deer-park on the farms of Penlaw,
and Parkcleugh-foot. See Hctton.
CORRIEVREKIN, or Corybrechtan, a dan-
gerous whirlpool between the islands of Jura and
Scarba, occasioned, it is supposed, by the tide-stream
being opposed, in its passage to and from the sound
of Jura, by a pyramidal rock which shoots up to with-
in 15 fathoms of the surface from a depth of about
100 fathoms. The vicinity of this rock is carefully
shunned by small craft ; but it is only during high and
strong tides, or violent gales, that it is at all formi-
dable to large vessels. The name, we are informed
by Campbell in his notes to ' Gertrude of Wyoming,'
signifies 'the whirlpool of the Prince of Denmark.'
And there is a tradition that a Danish prince once
undertook for a wager to cast anchor in it. He is
said to have used woollen instead of hempen ropes
for greater strength, but perished in the attempt.
" On the shores of Argyleshire," the poet adds, " I
have often listened with great delight to the sound
of this vortex, at the distance of many leagues.
When the weather is calm, and the adjacent sea
* The word corrie signifies, in Gaelic, ' a narrow glen ;' and
is of frequent occurrence in Gaelic topogrnphy.
COR
250
COR
scarcely heard on these picturesque shores, its sound
— which is like the sound of innumerable chariots —
creates a magnificent and fine effect." The lines in
Campbell's noble poem in which allusion is made to
this whirlpool are as follows :
But who is he, that yet a dearer land
Remembers, over hills and far away ?
Green Albyn ! What though lie no more survey
Thy ships at anchor on the quiet shore;
Thy pel lochs rolling from the mountain-bay;
Thy lone sepulchral cairn upon the moor;
And distant isles that hear the loud Corbrechtan roar!
The superstition of the islanders has tenanted the
shelves and eddies of this whirlpool with all the
fabulous monsters and demons of the ocean. Among
these, according to a, universal tradition, the mer-
maid is the most remarkable, and there is a Gaelic
legend — versified by Leyden, in the ' Border Min-
strelsy ' — which relates how Macphail of Colonsay,
while passing the Corrievrekin, was carried off by
one of these sea-maidens, and detained for several
years in a pleasant kind of captivity, in a grotto
beneath the sea. Therefore, mariners,
*' As you pass through Jura's sound
Bend your course by Scarba's shore,
Shun, O shun ! the gulf profound
Where Corrievrekin's surges roar."
So sings the poet ; couching his advice, however, in
somewhat ambiguous language, for the sea gener-
ally exhibits a state of greater turbulence on the
Scarba than on the Jura side of the gulf.
CORRISKIN (Loch), a deep, dark, lonely sheet
of water imbosomed in the Coolin or Cuchullin moun-
tains, on the western coast of Skye, which discharges
itself by a rapid stream into a bay of Loch Slavig.
It is about 2 miles in length, and half-a-mile broad,
and is said to be of profound depth. Sir Walter
Scott has described it in both prose and poetry in
' The Lord of the Isles.' We shall present our
readers with the poetical description, of which the
accomplished artist, Mr. J. W. Turner, whose pencil
has been employed in delineating the scene for the
last edition of Sir Walter's works, declares, " No
words could have given a truer picture of this, one
of the Avildest of Nature's landscapes."*
A while their route they silent made,
As men who stalk fur mountain-deer,
Till the good Bruce to Ronald said,
*■ St. Mary! what a scene is here
I've traversed many a mountain-strand,
Abroad and in my native land.
And it has been my lot to tread
Where safety more than pleasure led ;
Thus, many a waste I've wauder'd o'er,
Clombe many a crag, cross'd many a m>>or,
But, by my halidorae !
A scene so rude, so wild as this,
Yet so sublime in barrenness,
Ne'er did my wandering footsteps press,
Where'er I happ'd to roam."
No marvel thu9 the monarch spake j
For rarely human eye has known
A scene so stern as that dread lake,
With its dark ledge of barren stone.
Seems that primeval earthquake's su-ay
Hath rent a strange and shatter'd wav
Through the rude bosom of the hill,
And that each naked precipice,
Sable ravine, and dark abyss,
Tells of the outrage still.
The wildest glen, but this, can show
Some touch of Nature's genial glow;
On high Benmore (,'reen mosses grow,
And heath-bells bud in deep Glencroe,
And copse on Cruchan-Ben ;
But here, — above, around, below,
On mountain or in #len,
Nor tree, nor shrub, nor plant, nor (lower,
Nor aught of vegetative power,
The weary eye may ken.
For all is nicks at random thrown,—
Black waves, bare cra^s, and banks of stone
As if were here denied
The Bummer sun, the spring's sweet dew,
That clothe with many a varied hue
The bleakest mountain-aide.
And wilder, forward as they wound,
Were the proud cliffs and lake profound.
Huge terraces of granite black
Afforded rude and cumber'd track;
For from the mountain hoar,
HurPd headlong in some night of fear,
When yell'd the wolf and fled the deer,
Loose crags had toppled o'er j
And some, chance-poised and balanced, lay,
So that a stripling arm might sway
A mass no host could raise,
In Nature's rage at random thrown,
Yet tremhling like the Druid's stone
On its precarious base.
The evening mists, with ceaseless change,
Now clothed the mountains' lofty range,
Now left their foreheads bare.
And round the skirts their mantle furi'd,
Or on the sable waters curPd,
Or on the eddying breezes whirl'd,
Dispersed in middle air.
And oft, condensed, at once they lower.
When, brief and fierce, tlie mountain-shower
Pnti's like a torrent down,
And when return the sun's glad beams,
Whiten'd with foam a thousand streams
Leap from the mountain's crown,
" This lake," said Bruce, " whose barriers drear
Are precipices sharp and sheer,
Yielding no track for goat or deer,
Save the black shelves we tread,
How term you its dark waves? and how
Yon northern mountain's pathless brow,
And yonder peak of dread,
That to the evening sun uplifts
The griesly gulfs and slaty rifts,
Which seam its shiver'd head ?" —
" Corriskin call the dark lake's name ;
Coolin the ridge, as bards proclaim.
From old Cuchullin, chief of fame."
This lake is perhaps more generally described under
the name Loch Coruisk. Macculloch, in the 1st
vol. of his 'Description of his Western Islands, [pp.
282 — 2S4,] has described it with great beauty :
" Passing the river which runs foaming over a sheet
of smooth rock into the sea, a long valley suddenly
opens on the view, enclosing the beautiful lake Co-
ruisk, on the black surface of which a few islands
covered with grass appear with the vividness of
emeralds amid the total absence of vegetable green.
On every side the bare rocky acclivities of the moun-
tains rise around, their serrated edges darkly pro-
jected on the blue sky or entangled in the clouds
which so often hover over this region of silence and
repose. At all seasons and at all times of the day
darkness seems to rest on its further extremity : a
gloom in which the eye, discerning but obscurely
the forms of objects, pictures to itself imaginary
recesses and a distance still unterminated. A re-
markable contrast is hence produced in viewing alter-
nately the two extremities from any central point.
The entrance, less obstructed by mountains, presents
the effect of morning rising to illuminate the depths
of the opposite extremity, which appears as if per-
petually involved in the shadows of night. Silence
and solitude seem for ever to reign amid the fearful
stillness and the absolute vacuity around : at every
moment the spectator is inclined to hush his foot-
steps and suspend his breath to listen for some sound
which may recall the idea of life or of motion. If
the fall of a cascade is by chance heard, it but serves
by its faint and interrupted noise to remind him of
its distance, and of the magnitude of the mountain
boundary ; which, though comprehended by a glance
of the eye, and as if within reach of the hand, is
everywhere too remote to betray the course of the
torrent. The effect of simplicity and proportion in
diminishing the magnitude of objects is here dis-
tinctly felt, as it is in the greater efforts of archi-
tecture : those who have seen the interior of York
Cathedral will understand the allusion. The length
of the valley is nearly four miles, and its breadth
about one ; while the mountains that enclose it rise
with an acclivity so great, that the spectator situated
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at their base views all their summits around him ;
casting his eye over the continuous plane of their
sides, as they extend upwards in solid beds of rock
for nearly a mile, and present a barrier over which
there is no egress. Yet on entering it he will pro-
bably imagine it a mile in length, and fancy the lake,
which occupies nearly the whole, reduced to the
dimension of a few hundred yards. It is not till he
has advanced for a mile or more, and finds the boun-
dary still retiring before him unchanged, and his dis-
tant companions becoming invisible, that he discovers
his error, and the whole force and effect of the scene
becomes impressed on his mind. He wTho would
paint Coruisk must combine with the powers of the
landscape-painter those of the poet: it is to the
imagination, not to the eye, that his efforts must be
directed."
CORRY, a village in the district of Mull, and
parish of Morvern ; 8 miles south-west of Inver-
sanda ; at the western extremity of a lake to which
it gives names.
CORRYARRICK, a mountain in the parish of
Laggan, Inverness-shire, along which the old military
road from Fort- Augustus to Garviemore is carried.
It is extremely steep on the south side, and appears
at a distance to rise almost as perpendicular as a
wall. The ascent to the summit of this mountain
on the south side, is by a road of seventeen traverses ;
and on the north side, the long descent to the level
ground is carried on by traverses, resembling, in
some respects, those on the south side. As there
are several gullies and brooks on the south side,
bridges have been thrown across, over which the
road is carried. These tortuosities, rendered abso-
lutely necessary from the nature of the ground, greatly
increase the real distance, which, from base to base,
does not exceed 5 miles. Skrine thus describes the
features and perils of the road through this, the
highest pass in Great Britain: "Our road soon
growing inexpressibly arduous, wound round the
rocky hills overhanging Fort-Augustus and Loch-
Ness ; and elevated us to a height truly terrific, —
springing sometimes from point to point over Alpine
bridges, — and at others pursuing narrow ridges of
rock, frightfully impending over tremendous preci-
pices. With a perpetual succession of these labo-
rious inequalities and their corresponding scenery,
we passed the mountain Coryuragan, crossed the
two sources of the Tarff, and began to ascend the
mightier base of Coriaraich. The wildest and most
dreary solitude of Siberia cannot display a scene
more desolate than that which extended round us,
as far as the eye could reach on either side ; no ves-
tiges of living creatures or their- habitations enliven-
ing the desert, and nothing appearing but disjointed
rocks, broken torrents, and the tops of more distant
mountains. The road alone bore the form of being
a human work ; and as it began to ascend the fur-
rowed side of the Coriaraich, high stakes placed at
equal distances marked its progress, to prevent the
inevitable destruction which must await those hardy
travellers, who venturing over this pass in times of
snow, might deviate from the regular track. The
unusual display of their high points, bleached with
perpetual storms, sometimes extending in a long line
of ascent athwart the mountain, and at others rising
in a 2igzag direction over terraces almost parallel,
could not fail to astonish and confound a stranger,
with the height before him to be surmounted. The
road grew more laborious, and the precipice more
tremendous, as we approached the summit, broad
patches of snow rilling the clefts and hollows around
us on each side : the .weather also, which had gradu-
ally declined from its morning splendour, assumed
now a tempestuous aspect ; the rain beat furiously
against us, with terrific gusts of wind; and a thick
fog, still more alarming, whirling round the summit
of the mountain, frequently enveloped us in a tem-
porary obscurity. Drenched with the wet, as we
did not dare to continue in our carriages, at length
we reached a circular spot, traced out on the highest
point of the mountain, and immediately began to
descend, by a dangerous and rapid zigzag, from
terrace to terrace, with incessant turnings, so short
and so narrow as to require the utmost circumspec-
tion in compassing them. It may easily be imagined
how wonderfully precipitate this singular descent is,
when I add, that in the progress of little more than
2 painful miles, we unravelled the whole laby-
rinth of that eminence, which it cost us so much
labour, and 9 miles of tedious ascent to attain. At
the bottom, however, we rested a while from our
labours ; and the fog in some measure dispersing,
though the rain was unabated, we were able to sur-
vey the country into which we were translated as it
were from the clouds. Behind us the great moun-
tain from which we had escaped rose like a perpen-
dicular bulwark, on which we were unable to trace
the angular course by which we had worked our
passage ; and the only track we could distinguish on
its front was the chain of cataracts, tumbling in suc-
cessive falls, which forms the source of the great
river Spey. Other mountains, capped wdth eternal
snows, and inferior only in height to that which we
had passed, frowned over us on each side ; while a
long channel appeared worked by the impetuous
stream between their bases, through a hollow valley,
over which the road hung suspended on a narrow
shelf. A broader glen succeeded to this, and the tor-
rent became a rivulet, which after a variety of stages
increasing in magnitude, swelled at length into a
river, ravaging the little plain it formed, and fretting
with furious impetuosity over the numberless asperi-
ties with which the feet of the precipices were
strewed. With such violent convulsions was the
birth of this mighty river attended amidst its native
mountains, whose impetuous stream emerging from
the chaos it has created, desolates a vast tract of
country in its descent to the sea, which it falls into
near Fochabers, where we first crossed it. Relieved
from many of the horrors which attended the former
part of our course, we pursued the declivity on a
road rendered inexpressibly rough by the broken
fragments of rock with which it was strewed, till
crossing the Spey, we arrived at the solitary inn of
Garvamore, after traversing a desert of 18 long miles,
which it cost us eight hours to surmount. During
this whole course our eyes had not encountered a
single human being, or even the vestiges of an ani-
mal; those quadrupeds which are the natural inhabi-
tants of mountains shunning these barren deserts,
wrhere there is nothing to sustain them ; and no
birds, except the eagle, being hardy enough to fre-
quent their cliffs." [' Three Successive Tours.'
London, 4to., 1795, pp. 141 — 144.] — When General
Cope marched north from Stirling to meet the ad-
vancing forces of Prince Charles, in the latter end
of August, 1745, he hesitated to attempt the passage
of Corryarrick in the face of the Highland forces,
then 3,000 strong, whom he understood to be in
possession of the summit. As the mountain was
peculiarly fitted for the operations of Highlanders, it
is evident that in attempting to cross Corryarrick,
Cope, if attacked, would labour under every disad-
vantage; for while his men could not leave the road
I in pursuit of their assailants, the latter coidd keep a
running fire from numerous positions, from which it
would be impossible to dislodge them. Cope was
warned by President Forbes of the dangers he would
run ; and bis fears were not a little increased by a
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252
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report that, on arriving at the bridge of Snugborough,
a dangerous pass on the north side of the mountain,
he was to be opposed by a body of Highlanders;
and that, while this party kept him employed, he
was to be attacked in his rear by another body,
which was to be sent round the west end of the
hill. Alarmed at the intelligence he had received, —
distracted by a variety of reports as to the strength
of the enemy, and disgusted with the apathy of those
on whose support he had relied, — Cope called a
council of war at Dalwhinnie, on the morning of the
27th of August, to which he summoned every field-
officer, and the commanders of the different corps of
his little army. He would have acted more judi-
ciously had he convened a council at Dalnacardoch,
when he first received intelligence of the advance of
the Highlanders. At this meeting, Cope laid before
his officers the orders he had received from the secre-
tary-of-state to march to the north, which were too
positive to be departed from without the most urgent
necessity. After some deliberation, the council were
unanimously of opinion, that the original design of
the general of marching to Fort- Augustus over Cor-
ryarrick, was, under existing circumstances, quite
impracticable. Having abandoned the design of
crossing Corryarrick, the council next considered
what other course should be adopted. The wisest
course certainly, if practicable, would have been to
have marched back to Stirling, and to have guarded
the passes of the Forth; but against this proposal it
was urged, that the rebels, by marching down the
side of Loch Rannoch, would be able to reach Stir-
ling before the king's troops, and that, by breaking
down the bridges, they would intercept them in
their retreat. As it was impossible to remain at
Dalwhinnie, no other course therefore remained, in
the opinion of the council, but to march to Inverness.
This opinion, which was reduced to writing, and
signed by all the members of council, was delivered
to Sir John Cope, who, acquiescing in its propriety,
immediately issued an order to march.
CORRYVREKAN. See Cokrievkekin.
CORSE WALL POINT, a headland on the north-
west coast of Wigtonshire, near the entrance of Loch-
Ryan; in N. lat. 55° 1' and W. long. 5° 10'. A
lighthouse was erected upon this point in 1817. It
shows a bright and red light alternately every two
minutes, which is seen in clear weather at the dis-
tance of 15 miles. The building is 92 feet in
height; and the lantern is elevated 112 feet above
high-water.
CORSKIE. See Gartly.
CORSOCK, a small village in the parish of Par-
ton, Kirkcudbrightshire ; near the water of Urr.
An extension church was opened here in October,
1839.
CORSTORPHINE," anciently Crostorfyn, a
parish in the shire of Edinburgh ; 4 miles in length,
by about 2 in breadth ; bounded on the north by
Cramond parish ; on the east by St. Cuthbert's ; on
the south by Colinton, Currie, and Ratho ; and on
the west by Kirkliston. The surface is in general
level, and, over a great part of its extent, spreads
* This parish, it is thought hy some, obtained its name from
the circumstance of a golden cross — Croix d'or fin — having been
presented to the church by some French nobleman : nence
Corstorphine; and there is some obscure tradition of this kind.
According to others, the name signifies 'the Milk-house under
the hill.1 Others derive it from corrie, * a large hollow,' or
•round glen;' stoir, 'steps through a wet place;' and either
fionn, * white,' or Fein, ' the Fingobans.1 The name might thus
signify ' the Hollow with the white tteps,' or ' the Glen of the
Fingoban stepB.' Or perhaps the termination fin, may have
como from fionsi, 'wells' or 'fountains.' Other antiquaries
have supposed that Corstorphine was by the Romans called
Curia Storp/ihwrum, from a band of soldiers of the name of
Storphini having been stationed there : while Chalmers conti-
ders the name to mean ' the Cross of Torphin.'
into a smooth plain. The grounds of greatest eleva-
tion are those which go by the name of Corstor •
phine-hill, — an appellation they hardly could have
gained unless from being in a manner insulated in
the midst of rich valleys. This hill, or rather
ridge, on the south and west sides, rises from the
plain to the height of 474 feet above sea-level, by an
easy ascent ; on the east side, it is more precipitate,
and runs north, in an indented cristated form, into the
boundaries of the parish of Cramond. There are
no metals or minerals dug in this parish ; but there
are very fine quarries of freestone, which was for-
merly much in request for buildings in Edinburgh.
There are also, on the lands of Clermiston, inex-
haustible quarries of trap or blue whinstone. Thiy
parish is watered by the Gogar, a branch of the A
mond, and by the water of Leith. There is a sul-
phureous mineral spring near Corstorphine, which
once conferred on that village considerable celebrity.
When it was in repute, about the middle of last
century, Corstorphine was a place of fashionable
resort for the citizens of Edinburgh, and had its
balls and other amusements common to watering-
places The village of Corstorphine is about 4
miles west of Edinburgh, on the road from Edin-
burgh to Glasgow. It is a pleasant, well-sheltered
village, but somewhat in its decadence, the sites of
numerous houses which once stood here being now
converted into gardens ; and its attractions as a
summer-residence for the citizens of Edinburgh hav-
ing dwindled before those of Newhaven and other
coast-localities. We believe it has also lost its re-
putation for a once-celebrated delicacy called ' Cor-
storphine cream.' The mystery of its preparation
is thus described in the Old Statistical Account : —
" They put the milk, when fresh drawn, into a
barrel, or wooden vessel, which is submitted to a
certain degree of heat, generally by immersion in
warm water : this accelerates the stage of fermenta-
tion. The serous is separated from the other parts
of the milk, the oleaginous and coagulable ; the
serum is drawn-off by a hole in the lower part of
the vessel; what remains is put into the plunge-
churn, and, after being agitated for some time, is
sent to market as Corstorphine cream." There is
growing near the village a sycamore-tree, one of the
largest in Scotland, which, in the end of May and
beginning of June, exhibits an appearance of the
most striking beauty. That side which is exposed
to the sun is of the richest vivid yellow hue ; hence
this tree is easily distinguished at a great distance.
A few slips which have been taken from it, are thriv-
ing very well in other parts of the country. The
population of this parish, in 1801, was 840; in 1831,
1,461. Houses 248. Assessed property, in 1815,
.£13,165. — This parish is in the synod of Lothian
and Tweeddale, and presbytery of Edinburgh. It
includes part of the ancient parish of Gogar, and also
a part of St. Cuthbert's united to it in 1633. Pa-
tron, Sir Robert Keith Dick, Baronet. Stipend
£242 8s. 5d. ; glebe £30. The church is an ancient
building, of Gothic architecture, in the form of a
Jerusalem cross. The present church was founded
near the parish-church of this place, by Sir John
Forester of Corstorphine, Lord-high-chamberlain of
Scotland, in 1429, and dedicated to St. John the
Baptist, for a provost, 5 prebendaries, and 2 singing-
boys. It was a collegiate church, to which belonged
those of Corstorphine, Dalmahoy, Hatton, Cramond,
Collington, &c. The tenuis of Ratho, half of the
teinds of Adderton, and of Upper-Gogar, were ap-
propriated to the revenues of this college. The
first provost was Nicholas Bannatyne, who died in
1470, and was buried in the church, where his epi-
taph still remains. The coat-of-arms of the family
COR
253
cov
of Forester is everywhere dispersed over the build-
ing; and within the church, in niches, are several
monumental remains of this family, with effigies cut
in stone, as large as life. The male figures are
covered with complete armour, and the female ap-
pear richly ornamented according to the fashion and
dress of the times. The roof is supported by strong
arches, and formed by large stone flags. The whole
building seems to have suffered little by the waste
of time. The stipend of the parish-schoolmaster is
£34, with about £20 fees. He has amongst other
emoluments, a small piece of ground or glebe, near
the extent of an acre, contiguous to the village ; and
besides this, an acre of ground upon the side of the
water of Leith, near Coltbridge, which is called the
Lamp-acre ; its proceeds having been destined for
defraying the expenses of a lamp which hung in the
east end of the church of Corstorphine. There are
various conjectures concerning the use this lamp was
intended to serve. Some say that it was in honour
of the Virgin, before whose statue it was lighted up ;
others, and with more probability, think, that it
served as a beacon to direct travellers from Edin-
burgh, along a road which, in those times, was both
swampy, difficult, and dangerous. — There is in this
parish another place of worship, but which appears
not to have been used for that purpose since the
Reformation. It is a small chapel at Gogar, now
annexed to Corstorphine : there is a burying-ground
around it, which is still used for this purpose.
There are also a few acres of ground there which
belong to the minister of Corstorphine.
CORTACHY and CLOVA, two united parishes
which occupy a very extensive portion of the north-
ern part of the county of Forfar. Cortachy is about
13 miles in length, and varies from 2 to 8 miles in
breadth. Clova is nearly 10 miles in length by 7 in
breadth. The two districts are bounded by Aber-
deenshire, and the parish of Lochlee on the north ;
by Lethnot and Tannadice on the east ; by Kirrie-
muir on the south ; and by Glen-Isla on the west.
The South Esk rises in a multitude of small streams
in the north-west part of the district of Clova ; flows
south-east through that district, and enters Cortachy
about li mile below the kirk-town of Clova; receives
numerous tributaries, chiefly on the northern side,
while flowing through Cortachy ; and from Cross Bog
till its junction with the Prosen water, divides Cor-
tachy from Tannadice : see article South Esk. The
soil is in general poor, with a wet and cold bottom.
A part, however, of the haugh-ground on the banks of
the Esk, is a fight early soil, interspersed with fre-
quent patches of moss. The united parishes in-
clude a part of the Grampians, and from this cir-
cumstance are calculated principally for pasture.
Some of the mountains, especially those in the dis-
trict of Clova, are of great height, and many places
are beautifully romantic and picturesque. There
are three small lakes in the district, which abound
with trout and pike. Whinstone is found in great
quantity ; but no freestone or any valuable mineral
has been yet discovered. The bridge of Cortachy,
at the issue of the South Esk from the Grampians,
is founded on mica-schistose rock, exhibiting masses
of jasper varying in colour from a bright yeDow to
a deep red, and susceptible of a tine polish. Be-
hind the bridge, a remarkable vein of indurated
claystone is seen to intersect the schistose rocks. It
is generally of a white or greyish colour, and contains
thin scales of lime spar. Cortachy castle, the pro-
perty of Lord Airlie, and Clova-house, are the only
seats. Population, in 1801, 906; in 1831, 912.
Houses 178. Assessed property, in 1815, .£5,929
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presby-
tery of Forfar, and synod of Angus and Mearns.
Patron, the Earl of Airlie. Stipend £172 19s.;
glebe £15. Unappropriated teinds £184 8s. 2d.
There is a missionary stationed at Clova. School-
master's salary £34 4s. 6d. There are 3 private
schools. See article Clova.
CORUISK. See Corriskin.
COTTS LOCH. See Urquhart.
COULL, a parish in the district of Kincardine
O'Neil, Aberdeenshire; at the head of Strathcro-
mar ; boimded on the north by Farland and Leochel ;
on the east by Lumphanan; on the south by Aboyne;
and on the west by Logie-Coldstone. Its' shape is
somewhat triangular ; the longest side measuring
about 5 miles, and the others about 3A. Coull, and
the rest of the strath of Cromar, is flat, but shel-
tered by high hills on each side. None of the hills
rise to a great height. A considerable bog, which
lies to the west of the Mouse, is, in rainy seasons,
converted into a lake, which is often covered with
aquatic fowls. Several old Scottish silver coins have
been dug up amongst the ruins of the castle of Coull,
an ancient edifice of vast dimensions. Population,
in 1801, 679; in 1831, 767. Houses 161. Assessed
property, in 1815, £1,284 This parish is in the
presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil, and synod of Aber-
deen. Patron, Sir John Forbes, Baronet. Stipend
£161 5s. 7d. ; glebe £7. — Schoolmaster's salary
£26 ; with £8 fees, and the Dick bequest, which,
in 1832, amounted to £29 3s.
COULTER (Loch), a small lake in the parish
of St. Ninian's, Stirlingshire, about 2 miles in cir-
cumference, which discharges its water into the
Bannockburn. During the great earthquake at
Lisbon, in 1756, the wTaters of this loch were vio-
lently agitated, and sunk to a lower level, by about
10 or 12 feet, which left dry great quantities of shell
marl, particularlv at the west end of the loch.
COUP AR- ANGUS. See Cupar-Angus.
COUSLAND, a village in the shire of Edinburgh
and parish of Cranston ; 3^ miles east of Dalkeith.
The manor and chapelry of Cousland were annexed
to the parish of Cranston about the time of the
Reformation. The chapel stood on the south side
of the village of Cousland, where its remains may
still be traced, with its almost forgotten cemetery;
it was probably dedicated to St. Bartholomew, hi
1547, Cousland was burned by the Duke of Somer-
set, when he invaded Scotland with a powerful army
to enforce the marriage of the Princess Mary with
Edward, King of England.
COVE, a fishing- village to the south of Nigg bay,
in the shire of Kincardine and parish of Nigg ; 5 miles
south-south-east of Aberdeen. There is a natural
harbour or cove here. Here is a school for the ac-
commodation of the more distant part of the par-
ishioners, the master of which has a small gratuity,
and a house and garden.
COVE (The). See Cockburnspath.
COVE-A-CHIARAN, a cave on the coast of
Kintyre, about 4 miles from Campbelton, in which
St. Chiaran, the apostle of Kintyre, is said to have
taken up his abode. It is only approachable at half-
tide. In the middle is a circular basin which is
always full of pellucid water, supplied by the con-
tinual dropping from the roof of the cave. There
is a rudely sculptured cross on a stone in the cave.
COVINGTON and Thankerton, a parish in
the comity of Lanark; about 3 miles in length,
and rather more than 2 in breadth ; bounded on
the east by Libberton ; on the south by Symington
and Wiston ; on the west by Carmichael ; and on
the north by Pettynain. The surface is partly mea-
dow-ground on the banks of the Clyde, and partly
mountainous. Tinto is partly in this parish : see
article Tinto. The hilly part of the parish is
cow
254
CRA
covered with heath, but the rest of the soil is fertile
and well-cultivated. There is a small village, called
Thankerton, beautifully situated on the Clyde, over
which there is a bridge at this place. Within this
small district numerous relics of antiquity are to be
met with, particularly four circular camps. There is
also a fine ruin of a fortification, built by Lindsay of
Covington, in 1442. Population, in 1801,456; in
1831, 521. Houses 114. Assessed property £1,720.
— This parish is in the presbytery of Biggar, and synod
of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patrons, Sir N. M.
Lockhart, and Sir "W". C. Anstruther. Stipend
£208 13s. 7d. ; glebe £17 10s. — Schoolmaster's
salary £28, with about .£16 fees.
COWAL, a district of Argyleshire, forming a
peninsula or point of land stretching north-east and
south-west, between the frith of Clyde and Loch
Fyne ; and comprehending the parishes of Dunoon,
Inverchaolain, Kilfinan, Kilmodan, Kilmorich, Loch-
goilhead, Strachur, and Strathlachlan. The north-
east part of the district, which borders with
Perthshire, presents a rugged and broken sur-
face. The mountains become gradually lower and
the surface less rugged, as you advance to the
south-west ; and towards the extremity, compara-
tively speaking, the land is low and level. The
hills afford excellent pasture for sheep and black
cattle. This district is intersected by three arms
of the sea, Loch-Ridden, Loch-Streven, and Loch-
Eck, and is watered by the rivers Cur and
Eachaig. The coast is partly flat, and partly bold
and rocky, presenting numerous creeks and small
harbours. Here are the ruins of the royal castles of
Dunoon and Carrick. Campbell of Strachur, Camp-
bell of South-hall, and Lamont of Lamont, have ex-
tensive estates in this district. Population, in 1831,
7,943; inhabited houses 1,394. Families 1,475.
COWCADDENS, a suburb of Glasgow; in the
Barony parish.
COWDENKNOWS, an estate and barony on the
east bank of the river Leader, in the parishes of
Earlston and Melrose ; 32 miles from Edinburgh ;
1 2 from Kelso ; 3 from Melrose ; and 1 from Earlston.
Every one has heard of
"the broom, the bonny, bonny broom,
The broom o' the Cowdenknuws."
But the broom-sprinkled braes and haughs of Gow-
denknows have been sadly stripped of their golden
adornments of late years by the progress of the tur-
nip husbandry ; and of the song to which the ancient
and beautiful little air of one strain, known as ' The
Broom of Cowdenknows,' was here united, only four
lines of the chorus remain ; but the air itself is for-
tunately still preserved an object of less poetical
associations. The ancient ' Hanging tree' of Cow-
denknows is also to be numbered now only amongst
the things that were. This venerable relic of an-
cient days and vanished customs, whose dark and
knotted trunk, and fantastically twisted boughs,
threw a gloomy kind of feeling over every spectator
who knew its history in the days of feudal barbarism,
has been cut down. It had been called, time out of
mind, ' the Hanging tree;' and the local tradition —
without any probability of right foundation — is, that
it was employed, in the " persecuting times," to
hang the covenanters in the days of Charles and
James. The persecution was not very fierce over
the Merse, and little more than fines were inflicted
upon the conventiclers. There may be less doubt,
however, of its being employed by the older Border-
chief to assert his authority over his vassals, or to
inflict his vengeance upon his enemies. In all the
old feudal charters there was granted the power of
the 'pit and gallows" (fossa etji'rca), as irrespon-
sible judges. It cannot have been less than from
200 to 300 years since it bore such ghastly fruits on
its doddered boughs ; and probably its age must have
been much more, as it appeared far the most ancient
of all its brethren of every species. When it was
sawed across, however, a little above the root, the
concentric layers, carefully counted, did not amount
to more than 140. Outside of that there was a con-
siderable thickness of whitish wood, in which the rings
were altogether indistinguishable. The tree was of
the elm-species ; and this fact may indicate a peculi-
arity in the character of that species, which does not
belong to others, in which these layers, to the num-
ber of three or four or more hundreds, are often dis-
tinguishable. There can be no doubt of its having
braved the storms of 400 or 500 winters.
COWIE (The), a small river in the county of
Kincardine, which rises on the eastern skirts of the
Wedder hill, in the parish of Fetteresso, and after
running a south-east course of 9 or 10 miles, in
which it passes the villages of Ury and Cowie, falls
into Stonehaven bay.
COWTHALLY. See Carnwath.
COYLTON, or Coylston, a parish in the dis-
trict of Kyle, Ayrshire. It is bounded on the north
by the parish of Ayr; on the east by Ochil ; on the
south by Dalrymple ; and on the west by Dalrymple
and Ayr. It stretches from the Doon to Ayr water;
and is 7 miles in length, and about 2 in average
breadth. Its surface is in general flat ; though, at
one point toward the south, it rises to a gentle ele-
vation. The holms near the rivers Ayr and Coyl
are fertile and dry, and most other parts of the par-
ish have a clayey and productive soil. Coal, lime,
and marl are abundant. Coyl water traverses the
district from south-east to north-west, and falls into
the Ayr. There are three lakes, the largest of
which, Martnahaim, is a mile in length. The parish,
and the stream which intersects it, are said, by tra-
dition, to derive their name from a fabulous king,
called Coilus, or Coil, who is reported to have been
slain in battle, at Coylesfield, 5 miles south of Coyl-
ston, and buried at the parish-church. A large stone
is still regarded as monumental of ' Auld King Coil.'
There are, in this parish, several small villages, — the
chief of which, Coylston, stands on Coyl water.
Population, in 1801,"848; in 1831, 1,389. Houses
222. Assessed property, in 1815, £7,144.— The
parish, formerly a prebend, is in the presbytery of
Ayr, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend £254 8s. 4d. ; glebe £12. School-
master's salary £30, with about £30 additional
emoluments. There are 3 other schools.
CRAGGIE (Loch), a fresh water loch in the
parish of Tongue, in Sutherlandshire, lying imme-
diately to the north of Loch Loyal, which discharges
its waters into it, while itself flows into Loch Slam,
whence the Borgie conveys the united waters of the
three lochs to Torrisdale bay. All these lochs
abound in trout, pike, and char.
CRAIG,* a parish on the coast of Forfarshire.
It is bounded on the north by Montrose basin ; on
the east by the sea; on the south by the sea, a de-
tached portion of Maryton parish, and the parish of
Lunan ; and on the west by the parishes of Kinnell,
Farnwell, and Maryton. Its eastern division forms
a peninsula between Montrose basin and the sea.
The extreme length of the parish, from the guard-
house on the north-east to its south-west angle
near West Coteton, is nearly 6 miles ; and its ex-
treme breadth, from Baldovie on the north-west, to
* Tile ancient name was Inch Brioch, a name still retained
by an islet belonging? to the parish, and meaning, in Gaelic, 'the
Island of Troots.' Two-thirds of the rich fishing-ground along
the coast of the parish is known by the kindred name of the
Trout-shot.
CRA
255
CRA
the promontory of Boddin lime- works on the south-
east, is 3 miles. Superficial area 3,308 Scots acres.
The small island called Inch Brioch, in the embou-
chure of the basin, or of the river South Esk, be-
longs to this parish. On the coast, Dunninald is the
highest ground ; in the centre, Govanhill ; and on the
west, Pittarishill and Mountbay, — -all of which over-
look expansions of beautiful scenery, though the
loftiest of them is only about 400 feet high. The
surface of the parish is undulating, well tufted with
plantation, and, in several places, dotted with small
lakes. The coast is rocky, slightly romantic, and,
toward the south, precipitous. At the north-east
extremity of the parish are the ruins of a square
earthen fort, 50 feet in length, 50 in breadth, 16 feet
thick in its walls, of uncertain date, but traditionally
reported to have been used in the time of Cromwell.
Rossie, overlooking the basin of Montrose, is a beauti-
ful modern mansion. The villages are Rossie island,
Usan, and Ferryden, the last of which is of some
importance. See Ferryden. Population, in 1801,
1,328; in 1831, 1,552. Houses 252. Assessed pro-
perty, in 1815, £9,365. — Craig, formerly a vicarage,
is in the presbytery of Brechin, and synod of Angus
and Mearns. Patron, St. Mary's college, St. An-
drews. Stipend £257 6s. 3d. ; glebe £24. Un-
appropriated teinds £101 8s. 9d. Schoolmaster's
salary £34, with about £30 other emoluments.
There are 3 schools supported by the parishioners ;
and a fourth, situated within the limits of Maryton
parish, but just on the border of Craig, is endowed
by a lady of the latter parish, and designed for its
benefit. Craig comprises two titularities or parishes,
Inchbrayock or Craig, and Dunninald or St. Skeoch,
which were united in the year 1618. The parish-
church is a beautiful structure, with a square tower,
situated about a mile from the basin, commanding
from a gentle acclivity an extensive view of watery
and sylvan landscape, looking down upon the smiling
town of Montrose begirt with its lagoon, and seeing
away northward over scenery exquisitely diversified,
to the eminences beyond the North Esk. It was
built in 1799.
CRAIG-ALVIE, a mountain in Strathspey, in
the south-west part of Morayshire.
CRAIG-ANN, a mountain in Breadalbane, 16
miles north-west of Perth.
CRAIG-BENYON, a mountain in Perthshire,
in Monteath, 3 miles north-east of Callander.
CRAIG-CLUNIE, a lofty precipitous rock, to
the east of Castleton of Braemar, which afforded
shelter to Farquharson of Clunie, for several months
after the wreck of his prince's hopes in the battle
of Cidloden.
CRAIGCROOK. See Cramond.
CRAIG-DAIMVE, an inlet lying off the Point
of Keils in Knapdale.
CRAIG-DAVID. See Bervieerow.
CRAIGDOW. See Kirkoswald.
CRAIG-ELLACHIE, a picturesque hill, about
a mile to the north of Aviemore. See Aviemore.
CRAIGELLACHIE. See Aberlour, Banff-
shire.
CRAIGEND. See New-Abbey.
CRAIGENGILLAN. See Carsphairn.
CRAIGGAG-POINT, a promontory on the east
coast of Sutherlandshire, in the parish of Loth; 8
miles south-west of the Ord of Caithness, and 18
miles north-north-east of Dornoch.
CRAIGGRANDE. See Aultgrande.
CRAIGHALL, a village in the parish of Inver-
esk, near the railway from Edinburgh to Mussel-
burgh. See Inveresk.
CRAIGIE, a parish in the district of Kyle, Ayr-
shire, to the north-west of Ayr. It is somewhat
of a triangular figure , and is bounded on the north
by the parishes of Dundonald and Riccarton; on the
east by the parishes of Galston and Mauehline ; on
the south-east by the parish of Tarbolton ; and on
west by the parishes of Monkton and Symington.
Its extreme length is 7 miles, and its average breadth
1 J mile. Most of the surface is level, arable, fertile,
and well-enclosed. The eminences are not high,
and afford fine pasturage. From a hill 500 feet
above the level of the sea, a spectator looks round
on a richly cultivated beautiful expanse of 100 square
miles, and sees Benlomond, and several of the Gram-
pians, raising their lofty summits toward the north,
and the ridges of Jura serrating the horizon on the
west, and the hills of Ireland dimly merging from
the sea on the south. Coal is worked, and limestone
abounds. Much attention is paid to the dairy. The
chief antiquity is the ruins of the old castle of Craigie.
Population, in 1801, 786; in 1831, 824. Houses
123. Assessed property, in 1815, £8,511 Craigie,
formerly a vicarage, is in the presbytery of Ayr, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, Campbell of
Craigie. Stipend £247 7s. lOd. Unappropriated
teinds £360 4s. Id. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s.
4£d., with £18 school-fees. There is a school not
parochial. Craigie includes part of the suppressed
parish of Barnwell.
CRAIGIE, a village half-a-mile to the south ot
Perth, occupying the site of the old castle of Craigie,
and containing about 250 inhabitants. It is divided
into Upper and Lower Craigie.
CRAIGIE-BARNS, a hill in Perthshire, near
Dunkeld, rising to about 1,000 feet above the level
of the sea. The top of this hill commands a pros-
pect extremely rich and diversified. To the south
is the vale of the Tay as far as the Ochils, with the
hill of Birnam in the foreground ; on the left hand,
to the eastward, is the valley of Stormont, with a
beautiful chain of lochs, six in number. To the
west and north is seen the Tay flowing in majestic
grandeur through a narrow vale, with the high moun-
tains of Athol, Sechallion, and Bengloe, on the
north.
CRAIGIEVAR, an old square fortalice, with
projecting turrets, in the parish of Leochel, Aber-
deenshire.
CRAIG-LEITH, a small island in the frith of
Forth, about a mile north of North Berwick, to
which it belongs. It supports a few rabbits.
CRAIGLEITH, the largest freestone quarry in
Scotland. It is the property of Ramsay of Barnton,
and is situated about 2 miles north-west of the New
town of Edinburgh, on the Queensferry road. When
first opened, it was rented at about £50 per annum;
during the great building years in Edinburgh, from
1820 to 1826, it yielded £5,500 a-year. A cubic
foot of Craigleith stone weighs 148 lbs. It is of
two kinds ; one of a fine cream colour, called liver-
rock, of which the south front of the Register office
in Edinburgh is built; the other, of a greyish white,
called ' feak-rock.' Stones are raised from the
strata in this quarry chiefly by means of wedges.
The monolithic columns in front of the College in
Edinburgh, each 23 feet high, and 3 in diameter,
were obtained from this quarry.
CRAIGLIOCH. See Blairgowrie.
CRAIG-LOCKHART, a hill in the parish of
Colinton, about 2 miles south-west of Edinburgh.
It is beautifully wooded. Towards the north-west
the rock exhibits lofty basaltic columns; and on the
south-east side another range appears in which the
columns are still more distinct than in the former,
but of smaller diameter. The summit of the hill is
elevated 540 feet above sea-level.
CRAIG-LOGAN, a promontory of Wigtonshire,
CRA
•256
CRA
on the north-west extremity of Loch-Ryan, 10 miles
north-north-west of Stranraer.
CRAIGLUSH (Loch), a lake in the district of
Stormont, in Perthshire, from which the Lunan
takes its rise.
CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE, a fine old ruin in
the parish of Libberton, about 3 miles south of Edin-
burgh, crowning a gentle eminence on the left of the
road from Edinburgh to Dalkeith, and commanding
a noble view of the south side of the city, the frith
and opposite coast, and Aberlady bay. It consists
of a square keep, or tower, several stories high, en-
compassed by a square embattled wall, which has
had circular towers at each angle, and the whole
surrounded by another rampart-wall, and in some
places with a deep moat. On the principal gate is
the date 1427. Whether this is meant to record the
time that part was built, or an after-repair, is uncer-
tain. There are a great variety of apartments ; the
great hall is large, and well-lighted, considering the
mode of ancient times ; it has a semicircular ceiling,
and measures in length 36 feet, in breadth 22 ; and,
at the east end, has a chimney 1 1 feet wide. The
ascent of the keep is by an easy flight of brcid stone
stairs. On the east side of the outer walls are the
arms of Cockburne of Ormiston, Congalton of that
ilk, Moubray of Barnbougle, and Otterburn of Red-
ford, with whom the Prestons of Craigmillar were
nearly connected. Over a small gate, under three
unicorns' heads couped, is a wine press and a tun, a
rebus for the word Preston. There are a variety of
armorial bearings all over the outside of this build-
ing. The apartment shown as Queen Mary's, is in
one of the upper turrets ; it measures only 5 feet in
breadth, and 7 in length : but has, nevertheless, two
windows, and a fire-place. The name of this place
occurs pretty early in the national records, in a char-
ter of mortification, in Haddington's collections,
granted in the reign of Alexander II. A. D. 1212, by
William, son of Henry de Craigmillar ; by which
he gives, in pure and perpetual alms, to the church
and monastery of Dunfermline, a certain toft of land
in Craigmillar, in the southern part, which leads
from the town of Nidreif to the church of Libberton,
which Henry de Edmonton holds of him. Craig-
millar afterwards became the property of John de
Capella, from whom it was purchased by Sir Simon
Preston in 1374. William, a successor to Sir Simon,
was a member of the parliament which met at Edin-
burgh June 1, 1478. He had the title of Domine
■de Craig-Miller. This castle continued in the pos-
session of the Prestons almost three hundred years ;
during which time that family held the highest offices
in the magistracy of Edinburgh. In 1477, the Earl
of Mar, younger brother to King James III., was
confined here a considerable time. It was also the
residence of King James V. during his minority,
when he left Edinburgh castle on account of the
plague : and here the queen-dowager, by the favour
of the Lord Erskine, his constant attendant and
guardian, had frequent interviews with the young
monarch, whilst the Duke of Albany, the governor,
was in France. A. D. 1554, this castle, with that
of Roslin, and the town of Leith, were burned and
plundered by the English. Probably most of the
present buildings were erected since that time ; at
least, their style of architecture does not seem much
older than that period. Queen Mary, after her re-
turn in 1561, made this castle her residence. Her
French retinue were lodged at a small village in the
neighbourhood, which, from that circumstance, still
retains the appellation of Petit France. In the
month of November, 1566, Queen Mary was residing
here when the celebrated ' Conference of Craigmil-
lar ' was held, in which a divorce between her and
Darnley was projected by the ambitious and daring
Both well. About the time of the Restoration, this
castle came into possession of Sir John Gilmour,
lord-president of the court of session, who made
some additions to it, and whose descendants are still
in possession of it. Grose has preserved two views
of it, taken in 1788.
CRAIGNEIL. See Comionell.
CRAIGNETHAN CASTLE, the archetype of
Sir Walter Scott's castle of Tullietudlem, a magni-
ficent ruin in the parish of Lesmahagow, surmounting
a steep promontory, encircled by the Nethan on the
east, and on the west by a craggy turbulent torrent.
Tradition relates that it was built by one of the
early forefathers of the present family of Hamilton,
but the strength of the fortifications having awak-
ened the suspicions of the Scottish king, the builder
was apprehended, and, according to the summary
proceedings of ancient times, immediately executed,
upon suspicion of meditated rebellion. The site is
naturally very strong, and before the invention of
artiUery, the bulwarks must have been almost im-
pregnable. A high and solid wall of hewn stone,
great part of which is still standing, flanked with
massy towers, and perforated with loop-holes point-
ing in all directions, surrounded the principal build-
ing, enclosing within its ample compass a court-yard,
intersected with a deep moat faced on each side with
hewn stone, over which was thrown a drawbridge,
defended by two parallel vaults, which are still ac-
cessible, though deeply buried in the rubbish where-
with the moat is filled. The buildings are much
dilapidated, great part of the wall being entirely
swept away, having been used as a quarry for the
neighbouring farm-houses. The two towers which
remain are crowned with a thick coppice of rowan-
tree, bourtree, hazel, ash, briers and hawthorn ; and
— what will tend to convey some idea of the extra-
ordinary massiness of the structures — several bushes
of sauch flourish in great luxuriance on the top of
the walls, and are cut every third or fourth year by
the coopers, as excellent hoops. A large vaulted
hall is still shown, called the queen's room, wherein
it is said the ill-used Mary lodged a few nights, about
the period of the disastrous battle of Langside ; and in
a subterraneous vault, there is a circular well, beau-
tifully built of polished stone, which one tradition
reports to have descended to a level with the bed of
Nethan, and communicating with that rivulet, to
have supplied the garrison with water during a siege ;
while, according to another, it formed the entrance
of a tier of lower vaults, in which those wretches
who incurred the displeasure of their feudal tyrant
were hopelessly confined. Be these accounts as
they may, the well is now almost choked up, several
of the large stones of its mouth have been thrown
in, while every visitor to the castle takes the liberty
of throwing down the well a blazing bunch of broom,
or some other combustible substance, that he may
see the depth and construction of this curious rem-
nant of antiquity. Over the entrance to the prin-
cipal building is seen a much effaced escutcheon, in
which it is still possible to trace the armorial sup-
porters of Hamilton ; and the arms of the Hays, and
of some other families which formerly had possession
of this castle, are yet to be seen on various places of
the walls. The Nethan, after leaving the castle,
forces its way through a deep ravine, on one side
clothed with hanging wood, and, on the other side,
presenting wavy broom-clad slopes.
CRAIGNISH, a parish on the coast of Argyll-
shire, opposite the island of Scarba, and the gulf of
Corrievrekin ; measuring 7 miles in length by about
2 in breadth. Part of it is peninsular, stretching
southward between Loch Craignish and the sea, and
CRA
CRA
terminating in Craignish point. Around it, or im-
bosomed in the arm of the sea which indents it, and
bears its name, are upwards of 20 islands, and numer-
ous rocks and islets, serried round with romantic
cliffs, washed with the spray and tinctured with the
hues of the vexed waters in their narrow channels,
bearing aloft picturesquely situated trees, and com-
manding, as well as contributing to form, brilliant
and diversified expanses of scenery. In the channel
to the west the tide, pouring along from the sound
of Jura, and obstructed by the peninsula of Craignish
and its neighbouring islands, dashes itself into im-
petuosity and foaming violence, and, even in the
calmest weather, makes chase upon the life of any
fisherman or tourist who has been tardy to anticipate
its approach. The surface of the parish is, in gen-
eral, flat; but though the soil consists of a mould
in which clay predominates, and which promises
abundance to the cultivator, it is bleak, subject to
destructive storms, and, on the whole, unproductive.
Fortified eminences, rude in construction, and sup-
posed to be of Danish origin, are numerous ; and
two farms bear evidently Danish names. The strath
of this parish is traditionally reported to have been
the scene of an engagement between the Danes and
the natives, in which Olaus, a royal prince of Den-
mark, was slain ; and it contains, among numerous
cairns and* other artless monumental records of for-
mer times, a mound or tumulus, now modernized
into a burying-ground, which is still called Dunan
Aula, or the Little mount of Olaus. Population,
in 1801, 904; in 1831, 892. Houses 179. Assessed
property, in 1815, £1,359 Craignish, formerly a
vicarage, is in the presbytery of Inverary and synod
of Argyle. Stipend £169 10s.; glebe £18. Un-
appropriated teinds £90 17s. 8d. Schoolmaster's
salary £25 13s., with £22 10s. other emoluments.
There is a school not parochial.
CRAIG-OWL, one of the Sidlaw hills, in the
parish of Tealing, Forfarshire. It rises to 1.600
feet above sea-level, and is the highest summit in
the range.
CRAIG-PHADRIC, a steep but finely-wooded
hill in the neighbourhood of Inverness; rising 420
feet above the level of the Ness, which flows at its
foot. It is noted for the remains of one of those
fortifications, which, from the vitrified appearance
of the stones, and the marks of fusion which they
exhibit, have received the name of vitrified forts.
That on Craig-Phadric is by far the most complete
and extensive one in Britain. The summit of this
hill is flat, and has been surrounded by a wall in the
form of a parallelogram, the length of which is about
80 yards, and the breadth 30 within the wall. The
stones are all firmly connected together by a kind
of vitrified matter resembling lava, or the scoria? or
flag of an iron-foundry ; and the stones themselves
in many places seem to have been softened and vitri-
fied. The greater part of the rampart, is now covered
with turf, so that it has the appearance of an earthen
mound ; but, on removing the earth, the vitrified
matter is everywhere visible, and would seem to
have been in some places of great height. On the
outside there is the appearance of a second rampart,
but not so regular as the first. Considerable masses
of vitrified matter are also found in this second struc-
ture, under which is the natural rock, chiefly a fine
granite, with some breccia or pudding-stone, in a
cement of argillaceous and quartoze matter. Within
the area is a hollow, with a small spring of water.
The ruins of similar vitrified forts are to be seen on
the summits of other hills in the Highlands. On
Knockfarrel and Castle- Finlay, in Ross-shire ; on
Dunevan in Nairnshire ; and there is another, near
the south-west extremity of the island of Bute.
I.
Opinions concerning these ruins are very conflicting.
Some maintain that the vitrification is the effect of
a volcano; others, the work of art; Mr. Fraser
Tytler, in the second volume of the ' Transactions
of the Royal Society of Edinburgh,' endeavours to
show that this vitrification is the result of accident,
— the ruins of ancient forts destroyed by fire. For
a more particular account of this remarkable appear-
ance, we refer the reader to a work by Mr. Williams,
entitled * An account of some remarkable ancient
ruins lately discovered in the Highlands of Scotland ; '
and to the ' Philosophical Transactions' for 1777.
CRAIGROSTAN. See Ben-Lomond.
C'RAIL, a parish in the south-east angle of
Fifeshire, commonly called 'the East Nook o' Fife.'
It is bounded on the north by the parishes of Denino
and Kingsbarns; on the east by the sea; on the
south by the sea and the parish of Kilrenny ; and on
the west by the parishes of Kilrenny and Carnbee.
It is of very irregular outline, varying in breadth
from 2 furlongs to 2i miles, and stretching westward
from Fifeness to a length of 6J miles. The surface
is, in general, flat, naked, and uninteresting : it rises
abruptly at the coast to an elevation of from 20 to
80 feet; and it thence swells gently to the west,
with hardly a hedge to frill its thin dress, and with-
out an acclivity or a lake or stream to relieve the
monotony of its aspect. Coal-mines, which formerly
enriched the country, have long been exhausted.
Limestone is abundant, but lies too deep to be pro-
ductively worked. Population, in 1801, 1,652; in
1831, 1,824. Houses 344. Assessed property, in
1815, in the burgh, £1,391 ; in the parish, £7,234.
— Crail is in the presbytery of St. Andrews, and
synod of Fife. Patron, the Earl of Glasgow. Sti-
pend £280 lis. ; glebe £30. Unappropriated teinds
£624 3s. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4jd., with
upwards of £30 school-fees. When the " scholars
exceed 90, an usher is employed, who receives £12
from the burgh, and from one-fourth to one-third of
all the fees. Two schools, not parochial, are par-
tially endowed or encouraged by the town-council.
This parish claims Kingsmuir and the island of May ;
the former as bearing its proportion of parochial bur-
dens, and the latter as sharing its ecclesiastical privi-
leges.
Crail, a royal burgh of great antiquity in the
above parish ; 4 miles east of Anstruther ; 2 west of
Fifeness ; 10 south-east of St. Andrews ; 19 from
Cupar ; and 29 north-east of Kinghorn. It was an-
ciently called Caryle or Carraile, and is mentioned
by old historians as a town of considerable note, as
early as the middle of the 9th century. Ada, mother
of Malcolm IV., gave to the monks of Dryburgk a
toft of houses in her burgh of Crail. The church, .
an ancient fabric, still entire, is a fine specimen of
pointed architecture. It consists of a central nave,
with aisles, divided by two rows of pillars, one on
each side. This church belonged to the Cistertian
nunnery of Haddington, and was made collegiate, in
1517, at the desire of the prioress of Haddington, for
a provost, a sacrist, and 10 prebendaries. John
Knox preached here on Sunday the 19th May, 1559,
and next <lay marched off with a mob at his heels, to
destroy the monuments of idolatry at St. Andrews.
The celebrated James Sharp, archbishop of St. An-
drews, was once minister of this church. There are
some vestiges of a chapel which was dedicated to St.
Rufus. There is a small United Secession church
within the burgh ; and two schools, — a parish and a
burgh school. A little to the east of the harbour, on
the top of the cliff are some traces of an old castle
in which David I. occasionally resided. The town
consists of two streets, and two or three small lanes.
The northmost street is broad and spacious, and con-
CRA
258
CRA
tains some good houses of a massive and antique de-
scription, but the whole place bears evident marks of
having " seen better days." The harbour is small and
incommodious.* Crail used formerly to be a great
rendezvous for boats employed in the herring-fishery,
and immense quantities of herrings were then cured
here ; but scarcely any have been caught here of late
years ; even the white fishing is now neglected.
Formerly they used to cure haddocks in a peculiar
way, without splitting them, which went by the
name of ' Crail capons,' but this mode is now almost
given up. This burgh received its charter from Ro-
bert Bruce, in 1306, which was successively con-
firmed, with new grants, by Robert II. in 1371,
Mary, in 1.553, James VI., and Charles I. and II.
It was formerly governed by 3 bailies, a treasurer,
and from 11 to 15 councillors. It is now governed
by a chief magistrate, 2 bailies, a treasurer, and 17
councillors. It joins with Cupar-Fife, St. Andrews,
Kilrenny, East and West Anstruther, and Pitten-
weem, in returning a member to parliament. Its
parliamentary and municipal constituents were 54
in 1839. Corporation revenue .£228. A fair was
at one time held here annually in the month of
March, but it has fallen into desuetude. About
1810, the magistrates feued to the late Earl of Kellie,
the out-teinds and customs, anchorages, and shore
dues of Fifeness, Cambo sands, and Ringsbarns, for
£5 of yearly rent, which was afterwards reduced to
£2. Crail once possessed an extensive common,
part of which has been feued-off, so that the revenue
of the town is inconsiderable. There is a golfing-
club in this town, who find scope for their manly
game in the adjacent links. Crail, and ' the East
Neuk o' Fife,' figure conspicuously in Drummond's
" Polemidinia." — Balcomie castle, a little to the east
of Crail, now the property of Sir David Erskine, was
the ancient residence of the Balcomies of that Ilk.
During the reign of James IV. it was acquired by the
Lairmonths of Dairsie. In 1705, the estate was
purchased by Sir William Hope ; and it is now, by
purchase, the property of the Earl of Kellie. It has
at one period been an extensive and massive build-
ing. A great part of it was taken down by the late
Earl of Kellie ; but a lofty tower still remains, and
forms a well-known sea-mark.. — Below Balcomie is
a small cave, where, tradition says, King Constan-
tine was beheaded by the Danes in 874. There is a
curious dike, or perhaps natural ridge of stones,
about half-a-mile in length, and stretching from the
frith of Forth on the south-west, to the German
ocean on the north-east, so as to enclose a trian-
gular space of ground forming the Ness. Tradition
attributes this work to the Danes. A few years
ago several rude stone coffins were discovered on
the farm of East Wormiston, within view of the
place where the skirmish between the Scots and
Danes took place in 874 ; and, from its being with-
out ' the Danes' dyke,' it is supposed these coffins
may have contained the relics of the Scottish war-
riors who fell in this engagement. They were 25
in number, and were arranged side by side, the
skeletons being divided by only a single stone, which
thus formed the side of two coffins.
* A creek, a quarter of a mile eastward of the present har-
bour, called the harbour of Roome, could, at a comparatively
small expense, be converted into an excellent harbour capable
of containing 200 sail of vessels ; having, in ordinary tides, from
20 to 22 feet water, and at high spring-tides 29 feet; which
would admit ships of war. This harbour is sheltered from all
winds but the south ; and may be entered, with the wind atany
point, at 1$ hours flood, by vessels drawing 10 feet water. It
would also be of the most essential service to the trade in the
frith, and the whole eastern and northern coast of England and
Scotland, as, from its central situation, it would always be a
place of safety during storms from the north and east ; and in
case of stroug westerly winds, vessels might run in here so as
to aroid being blown out of the frith.
CRAILING, a parish in Roxburghshire, of a
somewhat circular form, lying on both sides of the
Teviot. It is bounded on the north by Roxburgh
parish ; on the east by Eckford ; on the south by Jed-
burgh ; and on the west by Ancrum and Roxburgh.
Its extreme measurement, from north to south, is
4 miles ; and, from east to west, 3J. The Teviot
divides it into two nearly equal parts, flowing in
beautiful windings from west to east, and impressing
upon the district the general feature of a rich basin,
deeply stained with green, and ornamented with most
of the softer forms of beauty. Oxnam water again
divides its southern section into two not very un-
equal parts, flowing down upon it from the acclivity
of the border-mountains, and threading its way
through verdure and plantation till it falls into the
Teviot. Another streamlet, after sweeping round
from the east upon its south-eastern extremity,
turns northward on its touching the parish, and
forms, till its confluence with the Teviot, the boun-
dary between Crailing and Eckford. Nearly the
whole of the land is arable, rich, and well-culti-
vated, consisting generally of a light loam ; and with
the interspersion of 300 acres of plantation, the
shadowing on the west of three isolated and con-
siderable hills, and the brilliant movements and
opulent dress of the intersecting Teviot, it presents
to the lover of landscape pictures delightfully attrac-
tive. On the central one of the three hills, that
called Piniel-heugh, there rises to the height of 150
feet, a fine cylindrical column, which commands a
view of nearly all the richly picturesque valley of
the Teviot, and overlooks some of the most golden
scenes on the Tweed, and lifts the eye upward
among the grand acclivities and varied outlines of
the Cheviots, and away north-eastward over all
Berwickshire to the German ocean. This column
is ascended by a spiral staircase, and was built by
the sixth Marquis of Lothian, in commemoration of
the battle of Waterloo. t On the summit of Piniel-
heugh are also vestiges of two encampents which are
conjectured to have belonged to the Romans.
Through the west of the parish formerly passed a
Roman road or causeway, the course of which can
still be traced. The great road through Teviot-
dale traverses the southern section of Crailing, at
about mid-distance between the Teviot and the
boundary of the parish, passing all the way along
under a delightful shading of beech, ash, and elm.
The northern section — all the property of the Mar-
quis of Lothian — is presided over by the plain but
ancient mansion of Mounteviot, now in the course
of being superseded by an erection in the form of
three parallelograms, romantically situated on the
banks of the Teviot, at the base of Piniel-heugh.
The southern section formerly constituted the estate
of Crailing, long the property of the noble family of
Cranstoun ; but it is now chiefly the property of
Paxton of Crailing, whose mansion stands on a gentle
eminence, overlooking the meanderings and the syl-
van-sloping banks of the Oxnam. Crailing is the
lowest, warmest, and most fertile portion of Teviot-
dale, and is remarkably salubrious. Half-a-century
ago, an inhabitant attained the age of 106 years, and
left behind him several healthy survivors upwards of
80. There are three small villages, Nisbet, Upper
Nisbet, and CraiUng. The last of these was at one
time considerable, but has latterly been falling into
decay. It is situated on the Oxnam, at the point
where it is crossed by the Carlisle and Berwick
road ; and here an elegant bridge was erected in the
i It is strongly constructed of whinstone quarried on the
spot, and bears this inscription : " To the Duke of Wellington
and the British Army, William Ker, VI. Marquis of Lothian,
and his tenantry, dedicate this monument, 30tU June, 1815."
CRA
259
CRA
summer of 1833. Population, in 1801, 669; in
1831, 733. Houses 133. Assessed property, in 1815,
.£8,355 Cradling- is in the presbytery of Jedburgh
and synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patrons, the
Crown and the Marquis of Lothian. Stipend ±'251
10s. lid. ; glebe £32 10s. Unappropriated teinds
£1,068 15s. Id. Schoolmaster's salary £29, with
£22 of other emoluments. There is a school not
parochial. Crailing is called, in the records of pres-
bytery, the united parishes of Crailing, Nisbet, and
Spital ; Crailing and Nisbet were distinct parishes,
the former on the south, and the latter on the
north of the Teviot; and Spital is said to have
been an hospital belonging to the abbey of Ancrum.
A few tombs overgrown with shrubs and weeds still
mark the site of Spital church, and point out the
present place of sepulture for the inhabitants on the
northern side of the Teviot. Even Crailing-proper,
or the southern part of the modern parish, formed,
in the reign of David I., two distinct parishes, each
having its manor, church, and village. The church
is situated on an eminence near the confluence of
the Oxnarn and the Teviot. It was built about 80
years ago, and accommodates 300. Dissenters,
though possessing no local place of worship, have
long been numerous in this parish.
CRAMOND, a parish situated on the south side
of the frith of Forth, partly in the county of Lin-
lithgow, but by far the greater part in Mid-Lothian ;
bounded by Kirkliston and Dalmeny on the west ;
by Corstorphine and St. Cuthberts on the south ;
and by St. Cuthberts on the east. It is watered by
the Almond, which divides it from Linlithgowshire.
The sides of this river are beautifully ornamented,
from about Craig-hall to where it falls into the
Forth : see article Almond. The whole extent of
the parish, from Almond toll-bar to Wardie, is from
6 to 7 miles in length ; while the breadth varies from
1 to 2. Towards the north and east the surface is
flat, interspersed with gentle eminences. The neigh
bourhood of Edinburgh affords a ready market for the
produce, and furnishes plenty of excellent manure for
the farms. The southern and western part of the parish
is more hilly and broken. Corstorphine-hill is partly
in this parish. To it also are annexed the two small
islands of Cramond and Inchmickery : the former of
which, forming part of the estate of Barnton, is ac-
cessible on foot at low- water. It contains about 19
acres, and affords pasturage for a few sheep. The
road from Edinburgh to Queensferry passes through
the parish, crossing the Almond at Cramond bridge,
4| miles west of Edinburgh, and 1A mile above the
mouth of the river. The old bridge of Cramond is
a little below this point. It consists of 3 arches,
each about 40 feet ; the breadth within the walls
being only 14 feet. The oyster-beds on the coast of
this parish, and around the islands of Cramond and
Inchmickery, have been almost destroyed from over-
fishing ; and the Almond, which once abounded with
salmon and trout, is now almost deserted by these fish.
The principal manufacture carried on within the parish
is the forging of iron and working of steel by the
Cramond Iron company. Ironstone is found along
the coast, and there are numerous seams of coal ;
but, though pits have been frequently sunk, they
have been given up on account of the badness of the
coal. There is a mineral spring on the lands of
Marchfield, called the well of Spa, containing a suf-
ficient quantity of sulphate of magnesia to render it
highly purgative. John Strachan, Esq. of Craig-
erook, in this parish, about the year 1720, mortified
his estate, of above £300 per annum, to certain
managers, to be applied by them in relieving the
necessities of " poor old men, women, and orphans. "
The annual produce of this mortification has gteatly
increased, and the amount is dedicated to the pay-
ment of annual sums of about £8 each to a number
of poor old men and women in the city of Edinburgh.
The mansion of Craigcrook has been long known to
the literary world as the residence of the aristarch of
critics, Francis Jeffrey. Among other fine villas are
Barnton, Granton, Cramond house, and Caroline
park, formerly called Royston. — The parish of Cra-
mond has given birth to several men who have be-
come eminent by their talents or their virtues. Of
these may be mentioned, John, second Lord Bal-
merinoch, noted for his spirited opposition to Charles
I., and for being the best friend of the Covenanters,
having spent the greatest part of his fortune in sup-
port of that cause ; — Sir Thomas Hope of Granton,
a celebrated lawyer at the Scottish bar ; — Sir George
Mackenzie, first Earl of Cromarty, well-known as
an able writer, and a great persecutor; — Dr. Cleg-
horn, professor of anatomy in the university of Dub-
lin, who may be considered as the founder of the
school-of-medicine in that university. To these may
be added John Law of Lauriston, one of the most
'remarkable characters this or any other country has
ever produced. He was born at Lauriston in the
year 1671. Disgusted with soma treatment he had
received in this country, he went over to France,
where he was raised, in 1 720, to the high rank of
comptroller-general of the finances of France ; and
obtained liberty to erect a national bank, which was
j attended with the most beneficial effects. He after-
wards planned the Mississippi scheme, which proved
to France — what the South Sea company afterwards
was to Britain — only a bubble, threatening to in-
volve the nation in ruin. Law ended his chequered
life in 1729, in Italy, in a state of indigence, after
having astonished all Europe with his abilities, his
projects, his success, and his ruin. Population, in
1801, 1,411; in 1831, 1,9S4. Houses, in Edinburgh-
shire, 256 ; in Linlithgowshire, 18. Assessed pro-
| perty, in 1815, £16,491. Besides the village of
I Cramond, there are, in this parish, the village
of Davidson's Mains, or Muttonhole, and several
• minor hamlets. — This parish, formerly a vicarage, is
! in the presbytery of Edinburgh, and synod of Lo-
i thian and Tweeddale. Patron, Ramsay of Barnton.
Stipend £271 2s. 8d. ; glebe £20. Unappropriated
teinds £237 13s. lOd Schoolmaster's stipend £34
i 4s. 4|d. There were, in 1834, 5 private schools with-
| in this parish.. — The village of Cramond is 5i miles
west of Edinburgh, and 1 north of Oamond bridge.
It is situated on the eastern side of the Almond,
where it discharges itself into the frith of Forth,
opposite Dalmeny park. It contains upwards of
340 inhabitants, who are mostly employed in the
ironworks carried on in the neighbourhood, which
were established in 1771. The Almond is navigable
for small vessels nearly a quarter of a mile from
the Forth, forming a safe and commodious harbour
— specified in the records of the Exchequer as a
creek belonging to the port of Leith. To this har-
bour belong 8 or 10 sloops, employed by the Cra-
mond Iron company. This village was an impor-
tant Roman station. According to Boece, and Sir
John Skene, Constantine IV. was slain in battle
here by Kenneth, son of Malcolm I. The bishops
of Dunkeld, to whom Robert Avenel transferred
one-half of the manor of Cramond, occasionally re-
sided here. In the month of May, 1543, the expedi-
tion under the Earl of Hertford landed at Caroline
park in this parish, near the spot where the Duke of
Buccleuch has recently built Granton pier.
CRANSHAWS, or Cranshaw, a parish at the
middle of the northern verge of Berwickshire : but
consisting of two parts, the larger lying south of the
smaller at the average distance of 14 mile. The
CRA
260
CRA
northern part is bounded on the north and west by
East Lothian, and on the east and south by the par-
ish of Longformacus ; and is of nearly a square figure,
nieas 'iriiig from angle to angle, both southward and
westward, about 2i miles. On the north and east,
round nearly one-half of its limits, this section has
for its boundary line Whitadder water. The south-
ern section is bounded on the north and east by
Longformacus, on the south by Westruther, and on
the west by Lauder and Longformacus ; and is of an
oblong form, measuring i\ miles in extreme length,
and 2± in extreme breadth. This section has for its
boundary line on the north and partly on the east
Dye water ; and it is traversed from west to east by
Watch water; which, just when leaving it, falls into
the Dye. The whole parish is a sea of hills, forming
part of the Lammermoor range, and is wild and pas-
toral. The greatest elevation is Man-slaughter-
Law, situated in the northern section, which is tra-
ditionally reported to have received its name from its
having been the scene of a sanguinary onslaught, and
on whose summit is a mound or tumulus apparently
commemorative of the event. The climate is cold,
sharp, and extremely foggy ; yet decidedly salubri-
ous. Near the centre of the northern section stands
the castle of Cranshaws, now used as a shooting-box
by Mr. Watson of Saughton, but formerly a fastness
of a kinsman of the Douglasses ; and it seems to
have been the original of Sir Walter Scott's pic-
tured Ravenswood castle, in his graphically tragic
story of ' The Bride of Lammermoor.' Population,
in 1801, 166; in 1831, 136. Houses 24. Assessed
property, in 1815, .£783 Cranshaws, formerly a
rectory, is in the presbytery of Dunse, and synod of
Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, Watson of Saugh-
ton. Stipend £158 6s. 7d. ; glebe £17 10s. Un-
appropriated teinds £36 19s. 5d. The church stands
at the eastern verge of the northern section, in the
vale or basin of the Whitadder. It was built in
1739, and contains 120 sittings Schoolmaster's
salary £34 4s. 4|d., with £12 other emoluments.
CRANSTON, a parish on the eastern verge of
Edinburghshire ; bounded on the north by Inveresk
and Haddingtonshire; on the east by Haddington-
shire ; on the south by Crichton, Borthwick, and
Newbattle ; and on the west by Newbattle and Dal-
keith. It is of very irregular outline, measuring
about 5 miles in extreme length, and about 3 miles
in extreme breadth, though over half its length it is
hardly 1 mile broad ; and it embraces an area of
nearly 7^ square miles. The river Tyne — here only
a rivulet — intersects it from south to north, meander-
ing its way amid groves and picturesque declivities,
and overlooked by handsome and noble seats, par-
ticularly the magnificent structures of Oxenf'ord
castle and Prestonhall. The surface is undulating,
cultivated, well-enclosed, and full of beauty; and,
from some of its higher grounds, commands prospects
both rich and extensive. Coal, limestone, and sand-
stone are abundant. At Crighton-Dean kilns 24,000
bolls of lime are annually sold ; at Cousland quarry,
16,000 bolls. A small section of the parish lies apart
from the main body, imbosomed in the parish of
Crichton. In this section is Cakemuir tower, square
in form, four stories in height, and winged with pro-
jecting battlements, in which is ' Queen Mary's
room,' an apartment said to have been occupied by
her when escaping, in male apparel, from the invest-
ment of Borthwick castle by Lord Home. The
villages are Cousland, Chesterhill, and Preston. See
Cousland. Near Prestonhall stood the old manse,
which is said to have been a resting-place for the
religious on their way to Melrose, and over one of
the windows of which was the inscription, " Diver-
sorium infra, Habitaculum supra." Population, in
1801, 895; in 1831, 1,030. Houses 221. Assessed
property, in 1815, £8,531 Cranston, formerly a
vicarage, is in the presbytery of Dalkeith and synod
of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, Sir J. H. Dal-
rymple of Cousland, Bart. Stipend £260 6s. 6d. ,
glebe £27. Unappropriated teinds £260 6s. 6d.
The parish church is an elegant Gothic edifice. It
was built in 1826 ; sittings 375 There are 2 schools.
Parochial schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4d., with
about £21 10s. school-fees Cranston, in the 12th
century, was written Cranestone, — signifying the
territory or resort of the crane ; and it was then
divided into the two manors of Upper Cranston
and Nether Cranston, afterwards denominated New
Cranston and Cranston-Ridel. The latter manor
obtained its cognomen from Hugh Ridel, who
received it as a grant from Earl Henry, and who
bestowed upon the monks of Kelso the church
and ecclesiastical property of Cranston, as the pur-
chase of their prayers for the souls of Earl Henry
and David I. Cranston-Ridel passed, in the reign .
of David II., through the Murray's to the Maegills,
who were raised to the peerage under the title of
Viscounts Oxenford and Lords Macgill of Cous-
land. Cranston gives title, from their ancient pos-
sessions in the parish, to the noble family whose an-
cestor, Sir William Cranston, captain of King James
VI. 's guards, was raised to the peerage in 1609.
CRATHY and BRAEMAR, an extensive united
parish, situated in that district of Aberdeenshire
called Marr, and supposed to be more elevated above
the level of the sea, and farther removed in every
direction from the coast, than any other parochial
district in Scotland. The length of the inhabited
part is about 30 miles ; the breadth varies from 8 to
10; but, taking in the mountainous and waste dis-
trict, the whole district is upwards of 40 miles" in
length, and 20 in breadth. The principal features of
the district have been already described under the
article Braemar. In the low grounds the soil is
various, but in a favourable season it produces good
crops. By far the greater part is covered with
mountains, — some of which are the highest in Scot-
land, with the exception of Bennevis : the highest are
LOCH-NA-GAR, MlTCKLE GLASHAULT, BeNNABCIRD,
and Benmacdhu. See these articles. Nearly the
whole of Crathy and Braemar has been originally
covered with wood, which was called the forest of
Marr ; and, with those of the Duke of Athol in
Perthshire, and the Duke of Gordon in Badenoch
and Glenaven, constituted the principal part of the
Great Caledonian forest. In the deepest mosses
within this immense range of forests, there are still
found large logs and roots of trees. In Braemar, a
great part of the wood still remains. Besides the
natural wood, there are very extensive plantations of
fir and larch. The Dee takes its rise in the forest
of Braemar, and rims through the whole extent of
this district. The principal lakes are Loch Callader
and Loch Brotachan, which contain trout, salmon, and
eels. Glen Callader is interesting to geologists from
its numerous displays of the association of granite
with slaty primitive rocks. The great military road
from Blairgowrie to Fort-George passes through the
whole extent of the district. The village of Castle-
ton of Braemar is situated on this line of road .
see that article. Population of the united parishes,
in 1801, 1,876; in 1831, 1,808. Houses 424. As-
sessed property £4,646 This parish is in the synod
of Aberdeen, and presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend £233 10s. 8d. ; glebe £8.
Unappropriated teinds £172 19s. — Schoolmaster's sa-
lary £26, with £8 fees, and house and garden. There
are 3 schools within this district supported by the
Society for propagating Christian knowledge.
CRA
261
CRA
CRAWFORD,* sometimes called Crawford-
Douclas, a parish forming the southern extremity
of Lanarkshire ; in extreme length about 18 miles,
and 15 miles in extreme breadth. Superficial area,
about 76,000 acres ; of which not above 1,000 acres
are arable. It is bounded on the east by a ridge of
hills which divide it from Tweedsmuir and Moffat,
and from which the Tweed, the Annan, and the
Clyde, take their rise ; on the south by Closeburn
and Kirkpatrick-Juxta ; on the south-west by San-
quhar, Durisdeer, and Maxton ; on the west by
Ceawford-John ; and on the north by Lamington.
The Louthers, of which the elevation above the
level of the sea is 2,500 feet, are chiefly in this parish.
The declination of the surface is towards the north-
west. The greater part of the district, forming
what Heron, we think, was the first to denominate
' the Southern Highlands of Scotland,' consists of
hills and moors, some of which are fit for pasture ;
but many are bleak and scarcely exhibit marks of
vegetation. In the valleys, the soil is generally light
and spongy ; in some places there is clay. The in-
telligent Robert Heron visited this district in 1 792,
and his remarks are worth quoting: " Agriculture,"
he says, " is little used here. Some spots of ground
scattered here and there are indeed sufficiently sus-
ceptible of cultivation, and not without fertility to
reward the labour of the husbandman ; but, even
on these, it is so very late before grains are ripened,
that they are commonly shaken by winds, withered
by frost, or rotten by rains, before they can be cut
down and gathered in. These mountains are then
appropriated chiefly to the purposes of pasture. They
are divided into large farms ; the rents of which — al-
though at a very trifling rate for the acre — are, how-
ever, commonly from £200 to £300 for each farm.
A considerable part of the stock of every farmer in
these parts, formerly consisted in black cattle. But
these have, by degrees, given place to sheep. Sheep
are now the favourite stock of the farmers of Craw-
ford-muir : and I have reason to believe that they
are the most skilful and successful shepherds in Scot-
land. The sheep which they are accustomed to
rear, are those commonly named among them ' short
sheep,' having black faces and black feet. [These
are still retained in the higher districts ; but Cheviots,
and crosses with Cheviots, are bred more common in
the lower districts.] The value of a sheep's grass,
for a-year, is estimated at 2s. [It is now 4s. 3d.]
The best of these are sold at 12s. or 15s. a-head.
Their wool is coarse, and brings only from 5s. to
7s. a-stone. Sheep of a different breed, and bear-
ing finer and more valuable wool, have been lately
recommended to the shepherds through Scotland,
by a society formed for the improvement of British
wool. The sheep fed on the Cheviot hills in
Northumberland are of this breed. Their wool
brings from 12s. to 15s. a-stone. But, of this wool
i greater number of fleeces are required to make
up the stone; and at all the English markets, the
short sheep are purchased in preference to these
last, because their flesh is confessedly more delicate,
and of a better flavour. Conversing with one far-
mer in these parts — who was avowedly an advocate
for the Cheviot breed — he could not avoid acknow-
ledging the inferiority of the flesh of these, but in-
sisted, that to his own taste, it was but very slight.
The turn of the farmers of these parts to the rear-
ing and management of sheep has contributed, in a
considerable degree, to the depopulation of the coun-
try. The population of the parish of Crawford is
asserted to be one-half less than it was forty years
* This name is supposed to be a corruption of two Celtic
words, crodh and jthorl, pronounced cm-forst, and signifying
' a sheltering-place for cattle.*
ago ; an assertion which confirms the inference I
have deduced from the number of the ruinous and
desolate cottages by which I had occasion to pass.
The price of labour has risen greatly in this neigh-
bourhood, within these last thirty years. A maid-
servant has now £2 for the wages of her labour
in the summer half-year, who at the distance of
thirty years backwards would hardly have obtained
£1. [They have now from £4 to £8.] A plough-
man living in his master's house, has from £6 to
£8 of yearly wages. [ At present their wages vary
from £6 to £12.] A shepherd living in his own
cottage, and tending his master's flock, gets from
£10 to £12 in the year. [Shepherds are now paid
in this district by being allowed to keep what is
called a pack of ewes — generally from 40 to 50 — ■
with their lambs ; they have also a cow's keep, ana
from 40 to 50 stones of oatmeal.] In this country of
sheep and shepherds, dogs are the favourite domestic
animals, and are highly useful by their services.
They are trained by their masters to the exercise of
surprising sagacity. Each shepherd is attended by
his dog. Remaining himself in the vale, he sends
his dog up the hill, to gather in or drive forward his
sheep. The dog having executed his commission,
returns for new orders from the master. They con-
verse in a set of vocal signs ; and the dog has intel-
ligence to comprehend and submission to obey very
complicated commands. This country is well-known
to have been within the limits of the Roman province
of Valentia Within this district are yet to be seen
the remains of two Roman roads ; and the sites of
three camps, supposed to be Roman, but so entirely
effaced, that this cannot be with certainty deter-
mined. I had an opportunity of surveying the castle
of Crawford, now desolate and ruinous, situate close
upon the river, opposite to the village of Crawford.
Its walls still stand. It is surrounded with trees ;
and by the structure, appears to have been intended
not less for protection, than for accommodation.
Tower- Lindsay, a more ancient edifice, built on the
same site, was famous in the days of our renowned
Wallace. Being occupied by an English garrison,
that hero took it by storm ; killing fifty of the gar-
rison in the assault. For security, the farm-houses
on Crawford-muir were anciently stone-vaults : and
of these some still remain. In these strongholds,
the inhabitants lurked, when invaded by the plunder-
ing rapacity of the Douglasses from Clydesdale, and
the Jardines and Johnstones from Annandale. Va-
rious hills within this neighbourhood still retain the
name of Watches, having been anciently the stations
of scouts, who watched the approach of enemies, and
in case of danger, lighted fires to spread the alarm
through the country It was in the minority of
James VI. that a German mineralogist visited these
hills in search of ores. Among the sands of the rivers
of El van and Glengonar — both rising from those hills
in the bowels of which veins of lead ore have since
been opened — he gathered some small quantities of
gold dust. A place where he washed this gold, still
retains the name of Gold-scour, derived from that
circumstance. Verses are still repeated among the
neighbouring inhabitants, which import, that this
mineralogist, by his successful searches, accumulated
a large fortune. An account of his labours and dis-
coveries, written by himself, is yet preserved in the
Advocates' library. The attempt to gather gold on
these hills, was, not very many years since, renewed
by the order of the late Earl of Hopetoun ; but be-
ing found less profitable than common labour, was,
very wisely, soon discontinued. It is still occasion
ally found on the tops of the rocks, in small particles,
seldom exceeding in size the point of a small pin."
[' Observations made in a Journey,' &c. vol. ii. pp.
CRA
262
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40 — 45.] — The district is very rich in minerals. At
Leadhills, in this parish, are the most extensive mines
in the kingdom : see Lead-hills. The Daer, the
Clyde, the Elvan, and Glengonar, intersect this
parish : see these articles. The great road from Glas-
gow to Carlisle runs through the middle of the parish.
Population, in 1801, including Leadhills, 1,671 ; in
1831, 1,840. Houses 384. Assessed property
£16,016. — The village of Crawford is 18 miles south
of Lesmahago, and 3 north of Elvanfoot inn. Po-
pulation, in 1831, 150. It is of considerable anti-
quity, and consists of'freedoms granted to the feuars
by the neighbouring proprietors. Each freedom con-
sists of 6 acres of croft-land, and enjoys the privilege
of feeding a certain number of horses, cows, or sheep,
on the hill or common. The houses are at such a
distance from each other that they have the appear-
ance of being dropped on the road. There is a
chain-bridge of 75 feet span over the Clyde at this
village. On the opposite side of the Clyde, are the
ruins of Crawford- Lindsay castle, the ancient seat of
the Earls of Crawford. A portion of this parish, on
the north-west, was held, during the reign of Mal-
colm IV. by John, step-son of Baldwin de Bigger ;
from him it was called Crawford-John, and after-
wards formed the parish of that name. The more
extensive part, forming the parish of Crawford, was
held by William de Lindsay and his successois for
several centuries, from which circumstance it came
to be called Crawford- Lindsay. The family of Lind-
say was ennobled in 1399, under the title of Earls of
Crawford. David de Lindsay, the 4th Earl, having
been a supporter of James III., lost this property in
1488, when it was bestowed on Archibald, Earl of
Angus, and came to be called Crawford-Douglas.
Prior to the Reformation, the monks of Newbottle,
by grants from the Lindsays, possessed considerable
privileges in the parish of Crawford This parish,
formerly a vicarage, is in the presbytery of Lanark,
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend £233 13s. 7d. ; glebe £12 10s. Unappro-
priated teinds £623 9s. lid. Church repaired in
1835; sittings 320. There is a chapel at Leadhills.
Two farms in this parish are annexed, quoad sacra,
to Moffat parish Schoolmaster's salary £34 6s.
4]d., with about £16 fees. There are 2 private
schools.
CRAWFORD-JOHN, a parish in Lanarkshire,
cf an irregular figure, extending 12 miles in length,
and generally to about 6 in breadth ; bounded on the
north by Douglas parish ; on the east by Wiston and
Lamington ; on the south by Crawford ; and on the
west by Dumfries and Ayr shires. Superficial area
21,123 Scots acres. The surface of this district is
hilly, and adapted for sheep-pasture, with a few
patches of arable land in the valleys between the hills.
There are limestone, white freestone, and an appear-
ance of coal in this parish ; and a lead mine is now
working at Snar. In other parts of the parish are
the marks of former mines, which, report says, were
wrought in search of gold. Cairntable, the north-
west corner of this parish, is 1,650 feet above sea-
level. On the top of Netherton hill, opposite to the
house of Gilkerscleugh, are the vestiges of an exten-
sive encampment; and at Mosscastle, Glendorch, and
Snar, are the ruins of two ancient castles. A small
river, named Duneaton water, takes its rise at the
foot of Cairntable, on the borders of Ayrshire, and
runs through the whole extent of the parish from west
to east ; besides which, there are several smaller rivu-
lets. Population, in 1801, 712; in 1831, 991, of whom
316 belong to the three small villages of Abington,
Crawford-John, and Netherton. Houses 169. As-
sessed property, in 1815, £5,014 This parish, for-
merly a rectory, is in the presbytery of Lanark, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend £233 13s. 7d. ; glebe £16. Unappropriated
teinds £167 5s. Church enlarged in 1817 ; sittings
209 — Schoolmaster's salary £32 10s., with about
£26 fees. There is a private school at Abington.
CRAWFURDSDIKE. See Cartsdike.
CRAWICK (The), a beautiful stream in Dum-
fries-shire, which rises within the boundaries of La-
narkshire, and dividing the parish of Sanquhar from
Kirkeonnel, after a south-west course of about 8
miles, falls into the Nith near Sanquhar manse.
This river, near its head, receives two more streams
more copious than itself: viz., the Wanlock from
the south-east, and the Spango from the north-west.
It winds between pleasant green hills, till the scenery
gradually changes to finely-wooded banks and culti-
vated lawns.
CRAWICK-MILL, a village in the parish of
Sanquhar, on the above stream, about half-a-mile
north-west of the town of Sanquhar. It has a popu-
lation of about 124 inhabitants, who are chiefly em-
ployed in a large carpet and tartan cloth manufactory.
CREACHBEN, a mountain in Argyleshire, in the
parish of Ardnamurchan, which attains an altitude
of 2,439 feet above the level of the sea.
CREANMULL ISLES, two small islets, which
constitute part of the parish of Barra, but are un-
inhabited.
CREE (The), a river which rises on the south-
east skirts of Carrick, in two streams ; the one issuing
from Loch Dornal, and known as the Cree proper;
the other rising on the southern skirts of Eldrick
hill, receiving an augmentation from Loch Moan,
and flowing south, under the name of the Minnock
water, till its junction with the Cree, where it ex-
pands into Loch Cree, about li mile below the
Bridge of Cree. From the High or Upper Bridge
of Cree, till it falls into Wigton bay by a consider-
able estuary, the Cree divides Wigtonshire from
Kirkcudbright. In the upper part of its course it
runs through a bleak and dreary country, but is soon
considerably increased by several streams, and, in.
stead of holding its course through rocks and muirs,
glides slowly and beautifully for some miles through
a rich valley abruptly bounded on each side by banks
covered with wood. It is navigable for several miles
up, and has been the chief source of all the agricul-
tural improvements which have been made in this
part of the country. It produces excellent fish of
different kinds ; salmon in considerable quantities.
The smelt, or sparling, a very rare fish, is also found
in the Cree. It is found only in one other river in
Scotland, viz. the Forth at Stirling. The sparlings
make their appearance in the Cree only during a
few days in March, at which time they are often
caught in great quantities. They taste and smell
strongly of rushes ; but this flavour is to most people
agreeable.
CREETOWN, or Ferrttown of Cree, a vil-
lage in the parish of Kirkmabreck, stewartry of
Kirkcudbright; 7 J miles south-east of Newton-
Stewart, and II west of Gatehouse It is beauti-
fully situated near the mouth of the Cree, on the
east side of its estuary. It has a good anchorage,
and is chiefly supported by its coasting-trade ; a
few vessels belong to the place. Creetown was
erected into a burgh- of-barony by the proprietor and
superior. The parish-church is situated here. It
contains upwards of 400 inhabitants.
CREGGAN-FERRY, a point of transit across
Loch Fine at Strachur. In the summer of 1829,
Mr. D. Napier started a steam-carriage for the con-
veyance of passengers from Loch Eck to this ferry,
a distance of 5 miles. It had four wheels, having
the body in front, and two boilers, with two engines
c3
>.
■3
'
CRE
269
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of four herses' power each, placed behind. The cis-
tern was placed under the boilers, which were double,
and so constructed that a vent for the smoke was
left between them, through which also fuel was sup-
plied to the furnace. The driver or engineer had
a seat on the top, at the extremity of the carriage,
where an index-wheel was placed to steer the fore
wheels. The body of the carriage had eight seats
on each side for passengers, and carried the luggage
on the top. It went at the rate of 1 2 miles an hour
on a hard road, but was found not to answer on a
soft sandy track such as that between Loch Fine
and Loch Eck.
CRERAN (Loch), an arm of the sea in Argyle-
shire, going oif to the south-east from Loch Linnhe,
in the district of Appin. The main coast-line of
road crosses it at Shean ferrv.
CRICHTO>~, a parish in the county of Edin-
burgh ; bounded on the north by Cranston ; on the
east by Fala and Humbie ; and on the south by
Borthwick. It is about 5j miles in length, by 4A
in breadth. The village of Crichton is situated 11
miles south-east of the metropolis ; and 5 south by
east of Dalkeith; on the middle road to England
by Coldstream and Cornhill, which is here carried
over the dell of the Tyne by a magnificent bridge,
lately finished, consisting of 5 arches, each of 50 feet
span, and SO feet in height. It is a thriving place,
and contains, with the immediately adjoining dllage
of Pathhead, 750 inhabitants. The parish c jntains
about 3,900 Scots acres, of which five-sixths are
well-adapted for tillage, having a rich deep soil,
capable of producing heavy crops. The remainder
is overgrown with moss, on a wet soft sand of clay
bottom. Li the New Statistical Account it is stated
that the surface of this district seems to be in a state
of movement, " spaces of whole acres are visibly
sinking from their former level, and forming large
hollows which but a short time ago could scarcely
be noticed." The river Tyne rises in the upper
part of this parish, from which it slowly descends
into the fertile vale of East Lothian. There is a
limestone quarry wrought to a considerable extent,
nearly 4,000 bolls being annually sold. Coal has
been discovered, but hitherto no pits have been
opened. At Longfaugh is a circular camp or in-
trenchment, the vallum of which is very distinct. —
The castle of Crichton is a very ancient and magni-
ficent building. It overhangs a beautiful little glen
through which the Tyne slowly meanders. It is a
square massive building, with a court in the centre ;
and appears to be composed of parts built in different
ages, yet upon a systematic plan. Sir 'Walter Scott
refers the tower on the north-western angle to the
14th century. The walls of the central part exhibit
diamond-shaped facets ; and the soffits of the principal
staircase are likewise covered with elaborate and
curious work, presenting twining cordage and rosettes.
Some of the rooms are still in a great measure entire
in the general outline. On the forfeiture of William,
3d Lord Crichton, this castle was granted to Sir
John Ramsay of Balmain ; from whom it afterwards
passed, by forfeiture, to Patrick Hepburn, chief ol
that name, and 3d Lord Hales, ancestor of the cele-
brated Earl of Bothwell. On the forfeiture of this
last nobleman in 1567, Crichton became the property
of the Crown, but was granted to Francis Stewart,
Earl of Bothwell. It has subsequently passed through
the hands of a dozen proprietors, from one of whom,
Hepburn of Humbie, who acquired it about the year
1 649, it has derived a designation by which it is not
unfrequently known among the common people of
the district — ' Humbie's Wa's.' Sir Walter Scott,
in the 4th canto of ' Marmion,' has thus minutely
described this relic of feudal ages :
" That cattle rises on the steep
Of the green vale of Tyne :
And far beneath, where slow they creep.
From pool to eddy, dark and deep, —
Where alders moht, and willows weep, —
You hear her streams repine.
The towers in d.fivrent ages ro^e;
Their various architecture shows
The builders' various hands ;
A mighty mass, that could oppose,
When deadliest hatred fired its foes,
The vengeful Douglas bauds.
Crichton! though now thy roiry court
But pens the lazy steer and sheep j
Thy turrets rude, and tntter'd keep.
Have been the minstrel's loved resort.
Oft have I traced within thy fort.
Of mouldering shields the mystic sense, —
Scutcheons of honour, or pretence,
Quarter'd in old armorial sort.
Remains of rude magnificence.
Nor wholly yet has time defaced
Thy lordly gallery fair;
Nor yet the stony cord unbraced
Whose twisted knots, with roses laced.
Adorn thy ruiu'd stair-
Still rises unimpaired below
The court-yard's graceful portico
Above its cornice, row and row
Of fair hewn facets richly show
Their pointed diamond form ;
Though there but houseless cattle go
To shield them from the storm ;
And. shuddering, still may we explore.
Where oft whilom were captives pent.
The darkness of thy Massy-more ;
Or from thy grass-grown battlement,
May trace, in undulating line,
The sluggish mazes of the Tyne."
Population, in 1801, 923; in 1831, 1,325. Houses
300. Assessed property £6,702. — This parish, for-
merly a vicarage, is in the presbytery of Dalkeith,
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron,
Burn Callender, Esq. Stipend £264 0s. Id. ; glebe
£15. Unappropriated teinds £43 18s. 6d. The
church, which is a venerable building in the form of
a cross, the western end having been left unfinished,
was made collegiate on the 26th of December, 1449
by Sir 'William Crichton, Chancellor of Scotland,
with consent of James Crichton of Frendraught,
Knight, his son and heir, for a provost, 8 prebenda-
ries, and 2 singing-boys, out of the rents of Crichton
and Locherworth, and a mensal church, belonging
to the archbishop of St. Andrews ; reserving to the
bishop the patronage of the prebends of Vogrie.
Arniston, jMiddleton, and Locherworth. After the
Reformation, the church-lands of Crichton, and the
parsonage-tythes which belonged of old to the rec-
tory of Crichton, were acquired by Sir Gideon Mur-
ray, the last provost of the collegiate church, who
obtained a grant converting those collegiate lands
into temporal estates. Sir Gideon was treasurer-
depute to James VI., and died in 1621, leaving those
estates to his son, Patrick, who was created Lord
Elibank in 1643. The church has been thoroughly
repaired, and seats about 600. A considerable num-
ber of the parishioners are dissenters, and attend a
Secession church in Pathhead Schoolmaster's sal-
ary £34 4s. 4id. with about £30 fees. There is
an infant-school in Pathhead.
CRICHUP (The). See Closeburn.
CREECH, or Creich, a parish in the north-east
of Fifeshire, extending in length about 3, and in
greatest breadth about 2 miles ; bounded on the
north by Flisk ; on the east by Kilmany and Moon-
zie ; on the south by Monimail ; and on the west by
Dunbog and part of Abdie. The surface rises to-
wards the north, but on the south is nearly level ;
the soil is sandy and thin. The superficial area is
2,314 imperial acres. There are two villages in the
parish, Luthrie near the centre, and Brunton towards
the north. The estate and castle of Criech, on the
north end of this parish, anciently belonged to the
Bethunes, of which family was Janet Bethune, the
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264
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Lady Buccleuch celebrated in ' the Lay of the Last
Minstrel,' and Mary Bethune, one of " the Queen's
four Maries." The Rev. Alexander Henderson, cele-
brated for his stanch opposition to episcopacy, and
who has found an able biographer in the Rev. Mr.
Aiton of Dolphinton, was born in this parish in
1583. The Rev. John Sage, the first of the post-
revolution bishops, was also a native of this parish.
On a little eminence near the church are the vestiges
of a Roman camp, with two lines of circumvallation.
There is another of the same kind on a higher hill,
to the west of the former. Both are about a mile
distant from the Tay. Population, in 1801, 405; in
1831,419. Houses 74. Assessed property £2,534.
— This parish, anciently a vicarage, is in the presby-
tery of Cupar-Fife, and synod of Fife. Patron,
Grant of Congelton. Stipend £227 14s. Id.; glebe
£7. Unappropriated teinds .£18 17s. 5d. The
church, which is at Luthrie, was built in 1830-2.
It is a handsome structure in the pointed style.
The ruins of the old church near the northern ex-
tremity of the parish, indicate considerable antiquity.
— Schoolmaster's salary £34, with about £16 fees.
CRIECH, an extensive parish in the county of
Sutherland. It stretches from within 4 miles of
Dornoch on the east coast, to Assynt on the west
coast, a distance of at least 40 miles. It is bounded
by Rogart and Dornoch parishes on the east; by the
Dornoch frith, and the Oykel river, which separate
it from Ross-shire, on the south ; by Assynt on the
west; and by Lairg on the north. The length of
the inhabited part of the district is reckoned at about
24 miles ; the breadth is unequal, varying from 2 to
10 miles. About one-thirtieth part of the district
only is cultivated ; the rest being hilly, and covered
with moory ground. A vast number of sheep and
black cattle are reared on the heathy grounds. The
arable soil is light and thin, except at the east end,
where there is a deep loam. There are some mea-
dows on the banks of the Oykel, and the rivulets
which run into it. The two rivers Shin and Cassly
run through the parish, into the Oykel. There are
also several lakes abounding with trout, of which
the largest are Loch Migdall and Loch Ailsh. A
ridge of hills runs parallel to the frith, the highest
of which, in the north-western extremity, is called
Benmore Assynt. There is a great deal of natural
wood, principally of oak and birch; and there are
several plantations of fir. At Invershin, near the
confluence of the Shin with the Oykel, is a fine
cataract. An excellent iron bridge of one arch,
spanning 150 feet, has been erected at Bonar, under
the auspices of the parliamentary commissioners :
who have also made a capital line of road from the
ferry here over the Dornoch frith, passing by Skibo
to Golspie, a distance of upwards of 16 miles; to-
gether with another road from hence, through the
middle of Sutherland, to Tongue on the north coast,
a distance of 50| miles. The Criech ferry is about
150 yards wide at low water, and twice as much at
high water ; and the communication is nearly as safe
and easy as by a bridge. That kind of apparatus is
adopted which is in use upon the Clyde at Renfrew ;
where the ferry-boat is furnished with falling ends
for the admission of horses and carriages, and a chain
fixed to each bank is passed along the side of the
boat on pulleys, whereby the boat is easily moved
across the river. Near the church is an obelisk, 8
feet long and 4 broad, said to have been erected in
memory of a Danish chief who was interred here.
On the top of the Dun of Criech is a fortification,
which is said to have been erected about the begin-
ning of the 12th century by an ancestor of the Earl
of Ross. Population, in 1801, 1,974; in 1831, 2,562.
Houses 519. Assessed property £4,106 This par-
ish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presbytery of Dor-
noch, and synod of Sutherland. Patrons, the Crown,
and the Duke of Sutherland. Stipend £208 18s.
9d. ; glebe £5. Unappropriated teinds £86 17s. 9d.
Schoolmaster's salary £31 ; pupils about 40. In
1834 there were 7 private schools in this parish, but
the greatest number of pupils in attendance at these
was 73, and the minister reported that there were
406 children of both sexes in the parish who could
not read, being resident at great distance from any
school.
CRIEFF, a small central parish of Perthshire, in
the district of Strathearn ; of which the principal
division is bounded by Monzie on the north-west
and north ; by Foulis- Wester, and Madderty, on
the east ; by the Earn, which divides it from
Muthill, on the south; and by Monivaird, from
which it is divided by the Turrit, on the west.
This parish is divided by the intersection of the
parish of Monzie, into two districts of naturally dif-
ferent features, — highland and lowland ; of which
the latter division — of which the boundaries have
now been given — is the larger. The highland divi-
sion consists chiefly of the strath of Glenalmond,
with a population of 230 ; and is ecclesiastically at-
tached to Monzie. It abounds with game. The
soil of the lowland division, extending to 3,800
acres, is chiefly light and gravelly ; in the vicinity of
the town of Crieff it is loam. There is a good
bridge of 4 arches over the Earn at the town ; at
the other end of which the thriving village of
Bridgend has been built. Population of the town
and parish, in 1801, 2,876; in 1831, 4,786. Houses
649. Assessed property, in 1815, £8,605 This
parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presbytery
of Auchterarder, and synod of Perth and Stirling.
Patroness, Lady Willoughby D'Eresby. Stipend
£182 14s.; glebe £10. Church built in 1786; re-
paired in 1827; sittings 966. A handsome extension
church was founded in 1837; sittings 1,000. There
are also a United Secession congregation, which was
established in 1765; church rebuilt in 1837 at an
expense of £600; sittings 533; a Relief church ; an
Original Secession church ; and a small body of Ro-
man Catholics. About one-fourth of the parishion-
ers are dissenters. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s.
4£d. There were 11 private schools in 1834. Mr.
Thomas Morrison, builder in Edinburgh, has be-
queathed a sum now amounting, it is thought, to
£20,000, for erecting and endowing an academy,
which it was at one time thought would be estab-
lished in Crieff, but the trustees have not yet decided
on its site.
The town of Crieff is 56 miles north-west of
Edinburgh ; 1 7 west of Perth ; 21 north of Stirling ;
10 south of Amulrie ; and 6^ east of Comrie. It is
built on a gently rising ground, crowned with firs,
half-a-mile north of the Earn, and near the foot of
the Grampians. It has a fine southern exposure,
and a delightful prospect of hills, woods, valleys,
and rivers, to the west. Cnoc Mary, Turlum, To-
machaistal the Cnoc of Crieff, and Glowero'erhim,
isolated hills in this quarter, are leading features in
the landscape. Crieff is the second town in Perth-
shire, and is much resorted to in the summer-months
by invalids, being considered the Montpelier of Scot-
land. It has a small jail and town-house, a decent
spire containing a clock; also a large and elegant
assembly-room. There are a subscription and a cir-
culating library in the town; a subscription reading-
room ; a handsome masonic lodge ; and a branch of
the Commercial bank. It has no regular government,
but the funds are administered by the bailie of Lord
Willoughby, and a committee of the inhabitants named
by his lordship. The superiors of the town are Lord
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265
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Willoughby D'Eresby, Murray of Crieff, ami M'Lau-
rin of Broich, who appoint baron-bailies. The chief
manufacture is making a kind of thin linen called
Silesias, and weaving cotton goods for the Glasgow
manufacturers. There are about 500 weavers' looms
in the parish. A woollen manufactory has recently
been established here. There are also several dis-
tilleries and tanneries, and extensive flour-mills.
An abundant supply of water is conveyed from Cold-
wells spring into St. James's square in the centre of
the town, whence it is distributed from a reservoir
over the other quarters of the town. The town has
greatly increased of late; a number of new houses
have been built on the south and west sides. As Crieff
is on the line of the great military road, it is much
frequented by travellers and Highland drovers. Until
the establishment of the Falkirk trysts in 1770,
Crieff was the great Scottish market for the sale of
black cattle. Nine annual fairs are now held at
Crieff. During the civil wars Crieff was the head-
quarters of Montrose. It was burnt in 1715 by the
Highlanders, and narrowly escaped the same fate in
1 745 ; the Highlanders, it appears, bearing an old and
inveterate grudge to "the kind gallows o' Crieff,"
on which so many of their marauding forefathers
had been suspended by the stewards of Strathearn,
who held their courts here. There is a curious old
cross about 50 yards east of the town-house. Fern-
tower, about a mile distant from Crieff, and Monzie-
house, about 3 miles distant, are handsome and in-
teresting edifices. The town of Crieff contained, in
1776,1,532; in 1811, 3,000; and in 1S35, 3,835
inhabitants A railway between Perth and Crieff
has been talked of.
CRIFFEL, or Crtffle, a ridge of mountains in
Dumfries and Galloway shires, the highest of which
is elevated 1,895 feet above the level of the sea.
The Criffle district of granite and syenite, exhibits
many interesting appearances of apparent fragments
of cotemporaneous veins and transitions into por-
phyry. The rocks which rest immediately on the
granite, or syenite, are fine granular compact gneiss,
slaty syenite, hornblende rock, and compact felspar
rock. These rocks alternate with each other, and
sometimes even with the syenite or granite ; and
cotemporaneous veins of granite are to be observed
shooting from the granite into the adjacent stratified
rocks.
CRIMOND, a parish in the district of Buchan,
Aberdeenshire. It lies upon the coast, nearly at an
equal distance from the towns of Frazerburgh and
Peterhead. Its outline is triangular : the base being
nearly 3 miles, and the height of the triangle about
5J. It contains 4,600 acres, of which 3,000 are
arable ; the remainder is occupied by mosses and
downs. About a quarter of a mile from high- water-
mark, there is a steep hill stretching along the shore,
and presenting a face almost perpendicular, and nearly
200 feet in height. From the summit of this ridge,
the ground gradually descends into a low flat valley,
at the bottom of which is the lake of Strathbeg,
partly in this parish, partly in that of Lonmay, cover-
ing 550 acres. Near the east end of the lake of
Strathbeg is a small hill called the Castle-hill, where
Cumyn, Earl of Buchan, had a castle. About a
quarter of a mile south of this eminence, formerly
stood the burgh of Rattray, which is said to have
enjoyed all the privileges of a royal burgh, except
sending members to parliament. Population, in
1801, 862 ; in 1831, 879. Houses 172. Assessed
property, in 1815, .£2,543 This parish, formerly a
vicarage, belonging to the chapter of Aberdeen, is
in the presbytery of Deer, and synod of Aberdeen.
Patron, the Earl of Fife. Stipend £204 7s. lOd. ;
glebe £6. Unappropriated teinds £58 16s School-
master's salary £35, with about .£12 fees. There
are 5 private schools.
CRINAMIL. See CREANBirjix.
CRINAN CANAL, a work at the head of the
peninsula of Kintyre in Argyle, intended to afford a
communication between Loch Gilp, or Loch Fyne,
and the Western ocean, so as to avoid the difficult
and circuitous passage of 70 miles round the Mull of
Kintyre. This canal was undertaken in the year
1793, by subscription of shareholders, under an act
of parliament; and was opened on July 18, 1801.
The original estimate by the late Mr. Reimie was
£63,678, and the sum subscribed by the proprietors,
and first expended upon it, amounted to upwards of
£108,000. This sum, however, proving to be totally
insufficient for its completion — chiefly in consequence
of the intersection of the line by whinstone rock and
peat-moss — subsequent advances were made by Gov-
ernment, at different periods, under the authority of
Parliament, to the extent of nearly £75,000; to
secure which sum, the canal was transferred on
mortgage to the barons of exchequer in Scotland,
and their functions have since devolved on the lords
of the treasury. The latest advance was made in
1817, and the act which authorized it, provided that
it should be expended under the superintendence of
the commissioners for the Caledonian canal, who, at
the desire of the treasury, undertook to continue the
management of the canal after the expenditure of the
grant ; and, under their direction, it has subsequently
remained. The canal is about 9 miles long; con-
tains 15 locks; 13 of which are 96 feet long, 24 feet
wide, and about 12 feet deep; and 2 are 108 feet
long, and 27 wide. It is navigable by vessels of 200
tons burden. Of the locks, 8 are used in ascending
from Loch Gilp or Ardrisshaig, at the east end ;
and 7 in descending to Crinan at the west end. It is
chiefly used by small coasting and fishing-vessels,
and by the steam-boats which ply between Inverness
and the Clyde, which are made inconveniently narrow
to pass through it. Since this canal was first opened
to the public, the revenues arising from the tolls
have, on an average, been scarcely sufficient to
cover the annual expenses of the establishment and
of the repairs ; and no dividend or interest has ever
been paid, either to the original proprietors, or to
government, The revenue of this canal during 1838
is stated to have been £1,903, the expenditure
£1,671, leaving a surplus of £232. As respects bal-
ance, this is a favourable statement compared with
former years, in which, on an average, the expendi-
ture and receipts were nearly equal. In 1839, the
dues received amounted to £ 1,950, of which £322
arose from steam-boats ; the expenditure during the
same year was £1,833. The trade during the last
fifteen years has increased, but not above £200
or £300 on an average of several years ; so that
in the financial view, the Crinan and Caledonian
canal are much upon a par. The dilapidated state
of the works, — the frequent insufficiency of the
depth of water, — the difficult nature of some parts
of the navigation, — and the absence of many facilities
which might be afforded, have been mentioned as
the principal causes of the canal not being much
frequented. Mr. Walker, in his report, and Mr.
Thomson, the resident engineer, in his evidence
have suggested various alterations, estimated to cost
about £9,000, which would materially tend to im-
prove the present fine. A committee of the house
of commons reported in 1839 that, " from the best
information they could obtain, it appeared that it is
to the originally defective construction and insuffi-
cient dimensions of the canal, that its failure must
mainly be attributed. Your committee have not
been able to obtain any correct estimate of the sum
266
CRINAN CANAL.
that would be necessary to reduce the summit-level
and to deepen and widen the canal, so as to render
it navigable by the same class of vessels which fre-
quent the Caledonian canal; your committee, how-
ever, entertain great doubts whether any great fur-
ther outlay on this canal would be advisable, and
they are strongly of opinion that it would not be so,
unless the Caledonian canal were first placed in a
state of efficiency. To the north-western coast of
Scotland, and especially to the districts in its im-
mediate neighbourhood, the benefits arising from
the Crinan canal are very considerable; but so long
as the present system of management is maintained,
and the government lien is continued, no improve-
ment can be expected to arise from the exertions of
those resident parties who ought naturally to be
most interested in its prosperity. On the one hand,
the shareholders, by reason of the government mort-
gage, are deprived of all control in the management
of the canal, and will, obviously, make no advance
for further improvements; on the other hand, the
commissioners under whose direction the canal no-
minally rests, take very little, if any, charge of it;
and the whole management, during nearly 20 years,
has devolved, apparently, upon the resident engi-
neer, almost without check or control. This want
of attention to the affairs of the canal is stated to
have arisen from an expectation which has prevailed
that other arrangements would be made for the
management, either by Government taking it into
their own hands, or by the proprietors resuming
possession, on the Government abandoning their
mortgage. In the opinion of your committee, no-
thing can be more objectionable than the position in
which the affairs of the canal at present stand, and
they see no prospect of the Government obtaining
any return of their advances; neither is there any
ground for expecting that the traffic on the canal
will increase under the present management, or that
its revenues will become sufficient to meet those
improvements which are the most obviously requi-
site to advance the prosperity of the undertaking.
Your committee therefore recommend, that any
doubts which may exist of the right of the Govern-
ment to foreclose their mortgage, should be removed
by a declaratory act, authorizing the Treasury to
take such steps for the future support and manage-
ment of the canal as they may deem advisable, either
by postponing the Government security now held, so
as to induce private enterprise to embark in its im-
provement, or by foreclosing the mortgage, and ab-
solutely disposing of the property." The idea of a
railway by the side of the canal has been suggested;
by this — even if worked by horses — passengers might
be conveyed in an hour with greater certainty than
they now are in four.* A steamer of proper dimen-
sions for passengers would work from Glasgow, &c,
to Ardrisshaig, and from Crinan to Inverness. For
cheap passengers and heavy goods, the present steam-
boats going less frequently than at present would
suffice. That this would increase the despatch and
character, and therefore the extent of communica-
tion, cannot be doubted ; but the increase must be
great to warrant such an establishment of steam-
packets, which would of course be a private concern.
Mr. John Gibb of Aberdeen reports, with reference
to this canal, under date January 20, 1838, that
" until lately, Inverness, as well as the north-west-
ern districts of this county, together with Ross-
shire, were supplied with groceries, and almost every
other description of merchandise, by communication
» A large proportion of the Bteerage passengers landing at
Ardrisshaig and Crinan, prefer, from motives of economy, to
walk the length of the canal, which they can easily do at pre
sent in much lead time than the boats take to pass through.
with the eastern coast ; but since the extension of
steam-navigation, and that by other traders, through
these canals, the connection has been gradually
changing; and the beneficial improvements which
have been effected on the river Clyde, enabling
vessels of every class to get up to the Broomielavv
quays at Glasgow, with the rapidly increasing popu-
lation and trade of this great city, as also the numer-
ous towns of growing importance in the vicinity of
the Clyde, create an additional demand, not only
for the produce of the Highlands, but also of Baltic
produce, for which the proper channel for economical
conveyance is through these canals. Therefore the
reciprocal exchange of merchandise bv those formerly
depending and subjected to the various delays con-
sequent on navigating along the rugged shores of
the German ocean, by the eastern coast, is now ex-
tending its connection by the western coast; and
from merchants from Inverness, Dingwall and the
i northern ports notv receive their supplies from Glas-
gow, which by steam-navigation through the Cale-
donian and Crinan canals would arrive almost with
the certainty of a mail-coach, at a comparatively
small expense and at little risk, were these canals
maintained in a perfect working order. Another
important feature in this conveyance is the cheap-
ness to passengers by it; a cabin-passenger paying
only 30s., and a steerage passenger only 15s., from
Glasgow to Inverness. A merchant therefore from
any of the towns on the route can, with little time
lost or expense incurred, make the selection of goods
for himself; and thus the revenue must be greatly
increased at Glasgow, with a comparatively small
capital from the dealer. These vessels, it is true,
require three days in passing from Inverness to Glas-
gow; but this is partly occasioned by what may be
called a trading voyage, and partly by the restriction
generally imposed at the Crinan canal, of not allow-
ing vessels to pass during the night. It is custo-
mary, during favourable weather, after leaving In-
verness, to reach Corpach, the western entrance to
the Caledonian canal, in one day, when the business
of that district, and that of Fort- William, is trans-
acted. The second day, after calling at Corran
ferry, and the thriving town of Oban, they reach
the Crinan canal, landing and receiving on board
goods and passengers. After leaving Ardrisshaig,
the eastern entrance of the Crinan canal, they call
at West-Tarbet, Rothsay, Gourock, Greenock, and
Port- Glasgow, reaching Glasgow the evening of the
third day after leaving Inverness. These boats gen-
erally remain at Glasgow about three days ; allowing,
therefore, sufficient time for discharging and loading
cargoes, and for the various dealers who accompany
them to transact their business, and return again by
the same conveyance. It will be obvious, that in
the foregoing description, reference is made chiefly
to the traffic carried on by the regular traders ; but
it ought to be mentioned, that there are, especially
during the summer-season, occasionally other steam-
ers which prosecute the same voyage, but these are
more for the purpose of , pleasure-parties, besides
those which carry on regular business, independent
of the other trade. It should likewise be noticed,
that in addition to the towns already mentioned,
these boats receive goods and passengers from nu-
merous other places, especially amongst the islands
which lie between the Crinan canal and Corpach,
the western entrance of the Caledonian canal, which,
before this passage was established, could only hold
any communication with the towns in the south by
the most tedious route ; whereas, by the trade now
opened — and which it is to be hoped will gradually
increase — an interchange will take place which must
in time prove of the greatest advantage to all con-
CRI
267
CRO
corned. But this change cannot be expected to go
on with that degree of rapidity with which it would
do in the midst of a populous and manufacturing
community. The inhabitants of the Islands and the
Highlands, like those of every other district, can
only purchase in exchange for what they sell ; and
this having been hitherto in a great measure con-
fined to their wool and lean cattle, enabled them to
do so in a very limited degree. But now that they
can send fresh fish, fat cattle, pigs, sheep, and poul-
try to market, fit for immediate use, it will have
the effect of very much improving their condition.
It must, however, be kept in view, that unless this
business is managed in the outset with fostering
care, and without being subjected to heavy imposts,
either by trafficking on the canals or roads, it could
not rise to that importance which it is to be hoped
it would otherwise do. The advantages which have
already been secured to the islands by the roads
executed under the direction of the Parliamentary
commissioners, are so well-known that they need
hardly be noticed here, were it not to show the
importance of their connection with the canals, as
affording the means of conveying the various pro-
ducts of the country to the shipping-places. In
short, it has been truly said, " that the works con-
ducted by the Parliamentary commissioners since
1803, have done more for the civilization of the
Highlands than all other attempts for that purpose
during the preceding century." In conjunction with
the communication with the Clyde by the Caledo-
nian and Crinan canals, it is necessary to consider
the state of the harbours, especially of Ardrisshaig,
at the eastern entrance of the Crinan canal, from
Loch Gilp, where, independent of vessels intend-
ing to pass through the canal, besides occasional
traders, at least one steam-boat arrives, and another
departs, every day, with goods, passengers, cattle,
sheep, pigs, poultry, &c. ; and during the herring-
fishing season about 100 large boats are engaged in
the herring-fishery, which dispose of their fish to the
buyers and curers, who were waiting them for that
purpose."
Comparative Annual Statement of tbe
conveyed through the Crinau canal by
revenue derived from tliem, from 1818
Number of Passengers
steam-boats, and of the
i to 1838, inclusive :—
Years.
Piusejigers.
Revenue.
£ s. d.
1820,
2,400
1821,
3.441
187 9 7J
1822,
6,122
269 13 8
1823,
6,939
286 18 71
1824,
8,332
215 11 6
1825,
. 12,603
456 7 41
1826,
9,094
307 10 0
1827,
. 13,824
511 1 0
1828,
14,777
33S 1 0
1829,
8,416
369 3 0
1830,
12,435
464 10 3
1831,
6,571
313 19 6
1832,
9,594
360 18 9
1833, .
. 12,777
478 0 0
1834,
18,972
546 4 2
18 5,
. 11,341
405 2 8
1836,
17,862
500 14 9
1837, .
. 21,406
567 5 3
1838,
1 1 ,506
343 4 0
1839,
. 19,672
CRINAN (Loch), an arm of the sea, which gives
name to the above canal, opening from the sound of
Jura, and running in a south-east direction into
North Knapdale. The scenery at the entrance is
wild and beautiful; but greatly inferior to that of
the neighbouring loch, on the north, Loch Craig-
nish.
CROE, a district in the parish of Kintail, Ross-
shire, watered by the Croe, and separated from
Glenelchaig by the Boar hill. The Croe rises in a
number of small streams in the mountains, and falls
into the eastern extremity of Lochduich. It at one
time abounded in salmon, but that fish is not now so
plentiful here.
CROMAR, a division of the district of Marr, in
Aberdeenshire, comprehending the parishes of Coul,
Tarland, Migvy, Logie-Coldstone, and part of
Tulloch.
CROMARTY, a very small county, washed on
three sides by the friths of Cromarty and Moray, and
bounded on the west by the county of Ross. Its
extreme length is about 16 miles; and it is, on an
average, about 6^ or 7 miles in breadth ; but it is
intersected by a large tract of common called the
Mulbuie, or Mulbuy, which belongs to Ross-shire,
and by the district of Ferintosh, which is in the
county of Nairn. The whole peninsula has the name
of Ardmeanach, or the Black Isle ; and the Cro-
marty part is called ' the old shire of Cromarty. '
This district was in very early times a sheriffdom,
hereditary in the family of Urquhart of Cromarty.
It comprehended, 1st, The whole parish of Cromarty.
2d, The parish of Kirkmichael, with the exception
of the farm of Easter Balblair, and perhaps Kirk-
michael— which form a tract of nearly one mile in
length, and half-a-mile in breadth, situated on the
point of land at Invergordon ferry, and which is
considered as a part of Ross-shire : And 3d, The
farm of Easter St. Martin's, in the parish of Culli-
cuden. Thus, the old shire was a tract, whose
greatest length was 10 miles, and average breadth
If. The area, therefore, was only 17i square mile*
To the south of this district, and in the middle o.
the peninsula, lies the extensive common moor,
named the Mulbuie, in which the county of Cro-
marty has an undoubted share ; but, until a division
be made, it is impossible to ascertain any boundary
in it. Beginning on the shore of the Moray frith, at
the burn of Eathie or Craighouse, about 3 niiles
south of Cromarty, the boundaries of the old shire
follow this burn to its source, and then run west-
ward, in the same direction, to the Fortrose road to
Invergordon ferry ; by this road they run so as to
include the White bog, or Glen Urquhart, till we
arrive at the turn towards Cromarty, and the burn
of Killean or the Black stank, where we meet the
Mulbuie moor, in which the boundary is uncertain.
On the north of this moor, we may proceed from the
junction of the Fort-George and Kessock roads to
Invergordon, directly west, between Brea and Easter
St. Martin's, to the bridge across the burn of New-
hall, between East and West St. Martin's, then
northwards, between the farms of Cullicuden and
Resolis, until we arrive at the frith of Cromarty,
about 1J mile west of the ferry of Alness. We must
again cut off that piece of the ferry point of Inver-
gordon, called Easter Balblair, as being in Ross-
shire. It is nearly triangular, extending on the
north-west shore about half-a-mile, and on the east
about one mile from the point. " How this little
patch came to be excluded from the shire of Cro-
marty," says Sir George Mackenzie in his 'General
Survey of Ross and Cromarty,' [London. 1810. 8vo.
pp. 12, 13.] "I cannot explain. It is alluded to
in the old valuation-roll of ~ the county, taken in
1698, in these words ; — ' Sir Alexander Gordon, in
vice of St. Martins, for all the lands he bought of
St. Martins, except Wester St. Martins, Kirk-
michael, and Easter Balblair, which is in Ross, £894
0s. 0d.' From this, I am inclined to think, we should
also include the farm of Kirkmichael in Ross, Wester
St. Martin and Easter Balblair being confessedly so,
and accordingly are so valued in the cess-books. We
would thus bring the boundary of this part of Ross-
shire down to the mouth of the burn of Newhall.
But I believe Kirkmichael is reckoned as part of
Cromarty. Had the word 'is,' in the above entry,
CRO
268
CRO
been 'are,' we might have supposed it decisive."
The rest of this county consists of nine detached
portions scattered up and down in various parts of
Ross-shire, containing in all ahout 344 square
miles, or 220,5S6 acres. George, Viscount Tarbat,
afterwards Earl of Cromarty, who was secretary of
state, and clerk to the parliament of Scotland, in the
reign of James II., William and Mary, &c. procured
an act, in 1685, annexing several lands to the shire
of Cromarty. This act being afterwards repealed,
another was procured in 1698 — of which an extract
is here inserted in a Note — annexing some part of
his lands to the shire of Cromarty.* By this extra-
ordinary annexation, the shire of Cromarty has now
a territory fifteen times its former extent ; and its
valued rent has been increased threefold. But these
annexations consist of so many detached parts, that
a description of their boundaries would be exceed-
ingly irksome. It has been found necessary, in all
bills relating to roads, bridges, Sec., to include the
whole of these annexations in Ross-shire ; although,
from their being thus kept in the back-ground, very
great inconvenience has been often felt, both by the
counties of Ross and of Cromarty. A great part of
this shire now belongs to the Andersons of Udal,
and the family of Ross of Cromarty. The face of
the country is pleasant. A long ridge of hills ex-
tends the whole length, in the middle of the county,
having a fine declivity on either side towards the
shores of the friths. The higher grounds are mostly
rovered with heath ; but towards the shores the soil
is light and early. Cromarty contains only one town
— from which the county takes its name — which was
formerly a royal burgh, and 5 parishes. The language
spoken is generally Gaelic; but ninny speak that
broad Scottish which is commonly called the Buchan
or Aberdeenshire dialect. Freestone, granite, and
reddish-coloured porphyry, are almost the only min-
erals, if we except topazes similar to those of Cairn-
gorm, which are found in the parish of Kincardine.
Fisheries are very successfully carried on, and pearls
of considerable value are sometimes found in the
frith of Cromarty, where the river Conal falls into
that bay. The district is comprehended in the she-
riffdom of Ross-shire ; and a sheriff-substitute holds
courts every alternate Friday at the town of Cro-
marty. It now joins with the county of Ross in re-
turning a member to parliament. Constituencv in
1839, 103. Cromarty gave the title of Earl to a
branch of the Mackenzies of Seaforth. The family
came into favour in the reign of James VI., and hav-
ing been raised to a baronetcy, was, in the reign of
James II., elevated to the viscountcy of Tarbet.
Lord Tarbet was created Earl of Cromarty in 1702;
but the title was attainted in the person of George,
the 3d Earl, on account of his having engaged in the
rebellion of 1745. He was surprised and defeated by
* " Considering that, by act of parliament 1685, the barony of
Tarbat and several other lands in Ross-shire were dissolved
from it, and annexed to the shire of Cromarty, but. in 16S(i,
this said act of annexation was rescinded, on pretence that it
included lands not belonging to the Viscount Tarbat, in whose
favour the said annexation to Cromarty was made, and now,
the said Viscount desiring that only the 6aid barony of Tarbat,
and other lands in Ross-shire, which belong to him in pro.
perty, and are presently possessed by him, or by his brother,
or mother-in-law, in liferent, and by some wadsetters of his
property, should be annexed to the shire of Cromarty : their
Majesties, in favour of the said Viscount and his successors,
did, with consent. &c, rescind the said act 1G86, and, of new,
annexed the said barony of Tarbat, and all other lands in Ross-
shire, belonging in property to the said Viscount, and pos-
sessed, as said is, to the shire of Cromarty in all time coming,
and to all effects ; and as to any other lands contained in that
act 1685, not being of the barony of Tarbat, and not being his
other proper lands, and possessed in manner foresaid, they arc
to remain in the shire of Ross as formerly, notwithstanding of
this or the other act passed in the year 1685 ; but prejudice of
the said Viscount, his other jurisdictions in these lands, as ac-
cords," &c.
the Earl of Sutherland's militia, near Dunrobin
castle, on the day before the battle of Cullodeii ; and
being sent to London, was tried, and condemned to
be executed, but by great intercession his life was
spared, though his estate and honours were forfeited.
His son entered the Swedish service. He was com-
monly known as Count-Cromarty, and died in 1789.
At present the peerage is claimed by Sir Alexander
Mackenzie of Tarbet, Bart. The valued rent of
Cromarty shire is £12,897 Scots ; the real land rent
may be estimated at £7,000 sterling. Population,
in 1801, 3,052; in 1811, 5,481. In all the more re-
cent returns this shire is included with that of Ross :
which see.
CROMARTY, a parish in the above county;
about 7 miles in length, and from 1 to 4 in breadth ;
bounded by the frith of Cromarty on the north ;
by the Moray frith and the parish of Rosemarkie on
the east and south ; and by Resolis on the west.
The burn of Ethie defines the southern limits of
this parish. It flows in some places through a deep
picturesque ravine. On the banks of the frith the
surface is level ; but a ridge about 2 miles from the
coast, extends the whole length of the parish, above
which the ground is covered with heath and moss.
The soil is wet and moorish, which makes the
seasons late, and the crop uncertain. The coast to-
wards the east is bold and rocky : some of the cliffs
being nearly 250 feet perpendicular towards the sea;
the rest is flat and sandy. Population of the parish,
in 1801, 2,413; in 1831, 2,901. Houses 518. As-
sessed property, in 1815, £3,569. Estimated rental
,£3,300 This parish is in the presbytery of Cha-
nonry, and synod of Ross. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend £251 12s. 6d. ; glebe £15. Unappropriated
teinds £395 18s. 5d. There is a Gaelic church, the
minister of which has a stipend of £50 from Govern-
ment.
Cromarty, a neat and clean, but irregularly
built, town in the above parish; 19J miles north-
east of Inverness ; 1 1 south of Tain ; 10^ north-east
of Rosemarkie ; 21 east of Dingwall; and 175 north
by west of Edinburgh. It is situated upon a low
point of land which stretches out into the sea in- a
picturesque manner. The sea has made consider-
able encroachments on the east end of the town. It
was formerly a royal burgh, but was disfranchised by
an act of the privy-council of Scotland, in conse-
quence of a petition by Sir John Urquhart, proprietor
of the estate of Cromarty. The harbour of Cromarty,
inferior perhaps to none in Britain for safety, and a
commodious quay, were built at the joint expense of
Government and the proprietor of the estate of
Cromarty, in 1 785. Vessels of 350 or 400 tons may
lie in it in perfect security. A considerable trade in
sack cloth has been long established in Cromarty and
the neighbourhood. In 1807, this town sent to Lon-
don goods to the amount of £25,000. In the same
year Cromarty exported 112 tons of pickled pork
and hams, and 60 tons of dried cod fish. Its staple
trade was, until lately, the catching and curing of
herrings. The town has a weekly market on Fri-
days, and an annual fair. Here is a branch of the
Commercial bank. A large rocky cavern tinder the
South Sutor, called Macfarquhar's Bed, and a cave
which contains a petrifying well, are amongst the
natural curiosities. The hill of Cromarty is cele-
brated for the grandeur and extent of the prospect
from it. Population of the town, in 1801, 1,993;
in 1831, 2,215. Cromarty unites with Wick, Ding-
wall, Dornoch, Kirkwall, and Tain, in returning n
member to parliament. It is governed by a provost,
2 bailies, and 7 councillors, Parliamentary and
municipal constituency in 1839, 49: A steam-loat
from Leith touches here once a- week.
CRO
269
CRO
CROMARTY FRITH (The), called by Bu-
chanan the Porlus s'alutis, is one of the finest bays
in Great Britain. It is divided from the Moray frith
by the county of Cromarty, and washes the southern
shore of the county of Ross. It is about 1 7 miles in
length ; and from 3 to 5 in breadth. Its average |
depth is from 9 to 12 fathoms. The entrance is be-
tween two twin promontories or headlands called the
Sutors of Cromarty, two bluff wooded hills, which
are about H mile distant from each other ; above
which the frith expands into a beautiful bay of about
6 miles in length and in breadth. There is fine an-
choring-ground, after passing the Sutors, for several
miles up the bay, with deep water on both sides
almost close to the shore, forming, in the language
of old Stowe, " an exceeding quiet and safe haven."
A ferry-boat is estabbshed across the bay from the
Ross to the Cromarty side.
CROMBIE, an ancient parish now comprehended
in that of Torryburn, Fifeshire. Crombie-Point, in
this district, about 6^ miles north-west of North
Queensferry, and 3 miles east of the village of
Torryburn, is a calling-place of the Newhaven and
Stirling steamers. See Torryburn.
CROMDALE, a parish composed of the three
ancient but now united parishes of Cromdale, Inver-
allan, and Auvie ; situated in the counties of Inver-
ness and Elgin ; bounded by Knockando on the north ;
by Inveraven and Kirkmichael on the east ; by Aber-
nethy on the south ; and by Duthil on the west. Its
extent is considerable, being in length 17 miles;
while, in some places, the breadth is 10 miles. It is
intersected throughout its whole length by the river
Spey. The soil is in general dry and thin, with the
exception of the haughs on the banks of the Spey,
which, in point of fertility, are equal to any in the
neighbourhood. The hills and level grounds are
generally covered with heath. Granton, a village
erected about 70 years ago, is in this parish, on the
western side of the Spey, in the shire of Elgin. See
Granton. At Lochindorb, a thick wall of mason-
work, 20 feet high, surrounds an acre of land within
the lake, with strong watch-towers at every corner.
The entrance is by a magnificent gate of freestone ;
and the foundations of houses are to be distinctly
traced within the walls. Population, in 180], 2,187 ;
in 1831, 3,234. Houses in Inverness-shire, in 1831,
484; in Elgin 117. Assessed property in Inverness-
shire £3,975; in Elgin £686.— This parish, formerly
a rectory, with the ancient vicarage of Inverallan and
Advie united, is in the presbytery of Abernethy and
synod of Moray. Patron, the Earl of Seafield.
Stipend £249 4s. 7d. ; glebe £22. Unappropriated
teinds£315 4s. 9d. Church built in 1812; sittings
900. There is a mission at Granton embracing the
old parish of Inverallan, established in 1835. Salary
£80. There is also a small Baptist congregation at
Granton. The low grounds on the south banks of
the Spey have been rendered famous by a song, —
' The Haughs of Cromdale' — composed, in conse-
quence of a skirmish which took place here, in 1690,
betwixt the adherents of King William, under the
command of Sir Thomas Livingston, and the sup-
porters of the house of Stuart, under Major-General
Buchan, in which the latter were defeated. Liv-
ingston was, at the end of April, lying within 8
miles of Strathspey, on the grounds of the laird of
Grant, where he received notice from a captain in
Grant's regiment, who, with a company of men, held
possession for the government of Balloch — now Grant
castle — in the vicinity of Cromdale, that Buchan was
marching down Strathspey. Desirous of attacking
him before he should have an opportunity of being
joined by the country people, Livingston marched off
towards the Spey, in the afternoon, and continued
his inarch till he arrived within 2 miles of Balloch
castle. As it was already dark, and the night far
advanced, and as a difficult pass lay between him and
the castle, Livingston proposed to encamp during
the night; but not finding a convenient place, he, by
the persuasion of one of his officers who was ac-
quainted with the pass, and who undertook to con-
duct him safely through it, renewed his march, and
arrived at the Dairirade or top of the hill above the
castle at two o'clock in the morning. Buchan's men
were then reposing in fancied security near Lethindie,
on the adjoining plain of Cromdale, and the fires of
their camp — which were pointed out by the captain
of the castle to Livingston — showed him that he was
much nearer the enemy than he had any idea of.
Mackay says, that had Livingston been aware that
the Highlanders were encamped so near the pass,
he would not have ventured through it during
the night, having little confidence in the country
people ; nor would the enemy, had they suspected
Livingston's march, left their former station and en-
camped upon an open plain, a considerable distance
from any secure position, 'just as if they had been
led thither by the hand as an ox to the slaughter.'
As several gentlemen of the adjoining country had
sought an asylum in the castle on hearing of Buchan's
advance, the commander, in order to prevent any
knowledge of Livingston's approach being commu-
nicated to the Highlanders, had taken the precaution
to shut the gates of the castle, and to prohibit all
egress ; so that the Highlanders were as ignorant of
Livingston's arrival as he had previously been of
their encampment at Cromdale. Such being the
case, the commander of the castle advised him to
attack the Highlanders without delay, and he him-
self offered to conduct the troops into the plain.
Livingston's men were greatly fatigued with their
march; but, as the opportunity of surprising the
enemy should not, he thought, be slighted, he called
his officers together, and, after stating his opinion,
requested each of them to visit their detachments
and propose an attack to them. The proposition
having been acceded to, the troops were allowed
half-an-hour to refresh themselves, after which they
marched down through the valley of Auchinarrow,
to the river. Finding a ford below Dellachaple,
which he approached, guarded by a hundred High-
landers, Livingston left a detachment of foot and a
few dragoons to amuse them, while, with his main
body, led by some gentlemen of the name of Grant
on horseback, he marched to another ford, through a
covered way a mile farther down the river, which
he crossed at the head of three troops of dragoons,
and a troop of horse, a company of his Highlanders
forming the advanced guard. After he reached the
opposite bank of the Spey, he perceived the High-
landers, who had received notice of his approach
from their advanced guards at the upper ford, in
great confusion, and in motion towards the hills.
He thereupon sent orders to a part of his regiment,
and another troop of horse to cross the river and
join him; but, without waiting for them, he galloped
off at full speed towards the hills, so as to get be-
tween the fugitives — the greater part of whom were
almost naked — and the hills, and intercept them in
their retreat. The cavalry were accompanied by
the company of Highlanders which had crossed the
river, and who are said to have outrun their mounted
companions, — a circumstance which induced the fly-
ing Highlanders, on arriving at the foot of the hill
of Cromdale, to make a stand ; but, on the approach
of Livingston and the remainder of his dragoons and
horse, they again took to their heels. They turned,
however, frequently round upon their pursuers, and
defended themselves with their swords and targets
CRO
270
CRO
with great bravery. A thick fog, which, coming
down the side of the mountain, enveloped the fugi ■
tives, compelled Livingston to discontinue the pur-
suit, and even to beat a retreat. According to
Mackay, the Highlanders had 400 men killed and
taken prisoners, while Livingston did not lose a
single man, and only seven or eight horses ; but
Balcarras states his loss at about 100 killed, and
several prisoners ; and the author of the ' Memoirs
of Dundee' says, that many of Livingston's dragoons
fell. A party of the Camerons and Macleans, who
had in the flight separated from their companions in
arms, crossed the Spey the following day; but, being
pursued by some of Livingston's men, were over-
taken and dispersed on the moor of Granish near
Aviemore, where some of them were killed. The
rest took shelter in Craigellachie, and, being joined
by Keppoch and his Highlanders, made an attempt
to seize the castle of Lochinclan in Rothiemurcus,
but were repulsed with loss by the proprietor and
his tenants.
CROOK (The), a small inn, 34^ miles from
Edinburgh, and loh from Moffat, on the post-road
from Edinburgh to Dumfries, by way of Moffat.
This is a favourite haunt of anglers ; the head-
streams of the Tweed affording fine trouting in the
neighbourhood.
CROOK-OF-DEVON, a small village in Perth-
shire, in the parish of Fossaway, on the river Devon ;
18 miles east of Stirling, and 6 west of Kinross. It
is a burgh-of-barony ; and has a fair in May, and
another in October. The village takes its name
from a sudden turn or crook which the river Devon
takes at this place : see article The Devon.
CROOKSTON CASTLE, an interesting relic
of feudal times, crowning the summit of a wooded
slope overhanging the southern bank of the White
Cart, in Renfrewshire ; about 3 miles south-east of
Paisley. When Crawford wrote, this building con-
sisted of a large quarter, and two lofty towers,
with battlemented wings. Much of it has since
crumbled into further ruin ; but a portion of the
walls, about 50 feet in height, yet remains, and the
moat and rampart may be still distinctly traced.
The surrounding scenery is pleasingly broken in its
outline, and the view from it is very commanding.
John Wilson, the author of a poem entitled ' Clyde,'
which Leyden has thought worthy of a place in his
collection of ' Descriptive Poems,' has these lines : —
" Here, raised upon a verdant mount sublime,
To Heaven complaining of the wrongs of tune,
And ruthless force of sacrilegious hands,
Crookston, an ancient seat, in ruins stands;
Nor Clyde's whole course an ampler prospect yields,
Of spacious plains, and well-improven fields ;
Which, here, the gently-swelling hills surround,
And, there, the cloud-supporting mountains hound ;
Now fields with stately dwellings thronger charged.
And populous cities, by their trade enlarged.''
An anonymous poet has much more beautifully apos-
trophized Crookston castle in the following lines:—
Thou proud memorial of a former age,
Time-ruined Crookston ; not in all our land
Romantic with a noble heritage
Of feudal halls, in ruin sternly grand,
More beautiful doth tower or castle stand
Than thou ! as oft the lingering traveller tells.
And none more varied sympathies command ;
Though where the warrior dwelt, the raven dwells,
With tenderness thy tale the rudest bosom swells.
Along the soul that pleasing sadness steals
Which trembles from a wild harp's dying fall,
When Fancy's recreative eye reveals
To him, lone-musing by thy mouldering wall,
What warriors thronged, what joy rung through thy hall.
When royal Mary — yet unstained by crime,
And with love's golden sceptre ruling all —
Made thee her bridal home. There seems to shine
Still o'er thee splendour shed at that high gorgeous time!
How dark a moral shades and chills the heart
When gazing on thy dreary deep decay !
Robert Croc, a gentleman of Norman extraction,
held the barony of Crookston in the 12th century,
and in 1180, founded here an hospital for infirm men,
and a chapel. In the 13th century, this barony was
carried by a female heiress into the illustrious family
of Stewart, whose regality now comprehended
Crookston, Darnley, Neilston, Inchinnan, and Tar-
bolton. In 1565, Henry, Lord Darnley, eldest son
of Matthew, Earl of Lennox, became the husband of
Mary, Queen of Scots ; and some traditions say that
it was at Crookston that ill-fated betrothment was
arranged. " Another traditionary report," says Mr.
Ramsay, in his interesting Descriptive Notices of
Renfrewshire, " represents Crookston as the place
from which Mary beheld the rout of her last army
at Langside. This report, and a kindred supersti-
tion which still lingers among the peasantry, have
been finely embodied in the following lines by Wil-
son : —
" But dark Langside, from Crookston viewed afar,
Still seems to raege in pomp the rebel war.
Here, when the moon rides dimly through the sky.
The peasant sees broad dancing standards fly;
And one bright female form, with sword and crown,
Still grieves to view her banners beaten down."
The same report having been adopted by Sir Walter
Scott, not only in a historical romance, [' The Ab-
bot,] but even in the sober pages of history itself,
[History of Scotland, Vol. II. p. 131.] it has at-
tained a currency almost universal. Now Crookston
castle lies 4 miles west from the field of battle, and
the swelling grounds which intervene prevent the
one place from being seen from the other. Apart
from this consideration altogether, it is quite incre-
dible that the Queen could be at Crookston castle
on the occasion in question. It will be recollected,
that she had just escaped from Loch Leven, and fled
to Hamilton, from whence she was proceeding, under
the protection of an army, towards the castle of
Dumbarton as a temporary place of safety, when
her troops were confronted and utterly defeated by
the Regent Murray, at Langside, which is about 2
miles south of Glasgow, and nearly parallel with that
city. The belief that the Queen was at Crookston
during the battle necessarily infers the supposition
that she had needlessly endangered her personal
safety, by proceeding 4 miles in advance of the troops,
which were expressly called together for her protec-
tion. As has been mentioned in a previous notice,
it was from an eminence in the neighbourhood o.
Cathcart castle, and rather in the rear of her army,
that Mary beheld the decisive struggle ; and as on
its termination she fled to the south, it is evident that
on that disastrous day she could not be any nearer to
the castle of Crookston. Sir Walter Scott having
been informed of the error into which he had been
led, he at once admitted it in a note to the revised
edition of ' The Abbot ;' expressing, at the same
time, his unwillingness to make the fiction give way
to the fact, in this particular instance, from a per-
suasion that the representing Mary as beholding the
battle from Crookston tended greatly to increase the
interest of the scene in the romance.* Unfortunately,
the error has hitherto been allowed to pass uncor-
rected in his popular History of Scotland. On the
whole, having searched hi vain for any contemporary
authority on the subject, we are constrained to rest
satisfied with the only probable form of the tradition,
that, namely, which bears in general terms, that the
Queen and Darnley passed some days at the castle of
Crookston soon after their nuptials.- This has been
« The Abbot, edition 1831, Vol. II. p. 339. The reader who
is unacquainted with the locality will be embarrassed by Sir
Walter's having inadvertently said, in the note here referred
to, (p. 340,) that he had " taken a liberty in removing the actual
field of battle somewhat to the eastward," whereas the removal
made by him was to the westward. — Note by Mr. Ramsay.
CRO
271
CRO
incidentally stated by Sir Walter Scott in his histo-
rical work ; and akin to it is the statement which he
represents the good Lady Fleming as making in the
romance, that here the Queen held her first court
after the marriage On a small mount, close to the
east side of the castle, there stood a stately yew,
called, ' The Crookston Tree,' the situation of
which was such that it for ages formed a conspicuous
object for many miles round. Under the ill-omened
branches of this funereal tree, Mary and Darnley
were accustomed to sit during the brief period of
sunshine which they enjoyed. In 1710, Crawfurd
spoke of it as a 'noble monument,' of a large trunk,
and ' well spread in its branches ;' and so it con-
tinued to be within the recollection of some persons
yet living. In 1782, the trunk, to the height of 7
feet from the ground, measured 10 feet in circum-
ference. Shortly before that time, the tree was un-
fortunately pruned, by way of experiment, in conse-
quence of which the growth upon the top was re-
tarded, and the tree itself gradually withered and
died. Blasted and leafless, it formed a dismal, and
therefore not unmeet, memorial of the unhappy pair
with whose melancholy story it was connected. Its
extinction was accelerated by relic-collectors, who,
' undisturbed by conscientious qualms,' cut down
and carried away large portions. At length, the
worthy proprietor, Sir John Maxwell, in order that
he might secure his right to what was left, found it
necessary to root out the stump, and take it into his
own immediate possession. This he did in the year
1S17. The greater part of the wood having remained
sound, fragments of this celebrated tree are to be
found dispersed over the country, some as female
ornaments, and others in less appropriate forms, such
as snuff-boxes and drinking-cups. Connected with
the old tree there is a popular error, which some
Writers of good repute have followed. In the reign
of Mary, there was struck a silver coinage of three
sizes, bearing on the reverse the figure of a tree,
crowned, with the motto, ' Dat Gloria Vires.' It
is generally believed that this tree represents the
Crookston yew, and that it was put upon the coin
in order to commemorate the meeting of Mary and
Darnley under its branches : accordingly, the coin of
the largest size goes under the name of * The Crook-
ston dollar.' Now, to show the groundlessness of
this story, it is only necessary to refer to the order
of the Privy council for the formation of the coin-
age in question, dated 22d December, 1565. By that
order, it is expressly enjoined, that the coinage shall
bear ' on the ane side, ane palm-tree, crownit ;'
and, in conformity to this, the tree upon the coin is
found to resemble a palm and not a yew." — After
the death of Darnley, the estates and honours of
Lennox were conferred upon Charles Stewart, 2d
son of Matthew, Earl of Lennox, on whose death
without issue, they passed to Robert Stewart,
Bishop of Caithness, who resigned them to the
Crown on succeeding to the Earldom of March.
King James then conferred them on Esme Stewart,
Lord D'Aubigny, created Duke of Lennox in 1581.
Having once more fallen to the Crown, the Lennox
titles and* estate were conferred by Charles II. on
bis natural son Charles, Duke of Lennox and Rich-
mond, who afterwards sold his Scottish estates to
the Duke of Montrose. In 1757, the castle and
lands of Crookston were bought from William, 2d
Duke of Montrose, by Sir John Maxwell of Nether-
Pollock, in whose family they have since continued.
CROSBY, an ancient chapelry in the parish of
Dundonald, Ayrshire. There are the remains of a
place of worship here ; the burial-place surround-
ing which is still used by the inhabitants of Troon.
Its situation is verv retired and beautiful.
CROSS, a parish in the island of Sanday, Orkney;
to which is annexed, quoad sacra, the parish of Bur-
ness. Population, exclusive of Burness, in 1811,
423; in 1831, 541. Houses, in 1831, 76 This
united parish — with which North Ronaldsay was
also united until 1831 — is in the presbytery of North
Isles, and synod of Orkney, Patron, the Earl of
Zetland. Stipend £210 ; glebe £19. Unappro-
priated teinds £27 0s. 4d. Worship is performed
alternately at Cross and at Burness Schoolmaster's
salary £46, with £10 fees. See articles Bcbntsss
and Sanday.
CROSS-BASKET. See East Kilbride.
CROSSFORD, a village in Fifeshire ; U mile
west of Dunfermline ; on the road to Culross and
Alloa. It is chieflv inhabited bv table-linen weavers
CROSSGATES, a village in Fifeshire; 3A miles
east of Dunfermline ; 10 south of Kinross ; and 5
north from Queensferry The roads from Perth to
Edinburgh, and from Kirkcaldy to Dunfermline, in-
tersect each other here. There is a Secession meet-
ing-house, built in 1801-2 ; sittings 531 . Several
fairs are held here, and there is an annual exhibi-
tion of cattle and horses. Population, in 1836, 420.
CROSS ISLE, one of the Shetland isles, consti-
tuting part of the parish of Dunross-Ness.
CROSSHILL. See Kirkmichael.
CROSSMICHAEL, a parish in the centre of the
stewartry of Kirkcudbright. It is of a rectangular
form, extending in length about 5, and in breadth
about 4 miles. Superficial area 7,696 acres. It is
bounded on the east by the Urr, which divides it
from the parishes of Kirkpatrick-Durham and Urr;
and on the west by the Dee, which divides it from
Balmagie; on the north-west it has Parton parish;
and on the south-east Buittle and Kelton. From
the two rivers, the ground rises into a fertile ridge,
beautifully diversified with gentle eminences. To-
wards the northern border, there is a small part
covered with heath ; along the rivers are extensive
meadows. There are two lakes in the parish, called
Engrogo and Rohn, abounding with pike and perch.
There are two ferries over the Dee in this parish,
which is here from 700 to 2,200 feet in width ; and
the great military^ road to Portpatrick passes through
it. There are several Pictish monuments of anti-
quity, and the remains of ancient fortifications. Near
the kirk of Crossmichael, at a place called Crofts, is
a very beautiful oval camp, occupying the summit of
a hill, and commanding the river immediately below.
The village of Crossmichael is a pleasing little place,
with a population of 229. Here stood, in ancient
times, a cross dedicated to St. Michael, around which
the peasantry of the neighbourhood were wont to
assemble at Michaelmas to a fair. The cross has
disappeared, but the fair is still held. Population,
in 1801, 1,084; in 1831, 1,325. Houses 242. As-
sessed property, in 1815, £10,429 This parish,
formerly a prebend of Sweetheart abbey, is in the
presbytery of Kirkcudbright, and svnod of Galloway.
Patroness, Mrs. Gauld. Stipend "£269 1.5s. lOd. ;
glebe £24. Church built in 1751 ; enlarged in 1822;
sittings 596. — There are two parochial schools.
Salarv of the first master £31 6s. 6Jd., with about
£30 fees; of the second £20, with £11 lis. 3d.
from a fund mortified in 1735, by William Gordon,
merchant in Bristol, in consequence of which he is
not entitled to school-fees. There are also 2 pri-
vate schools.
CROSSRAGUEL, or Crossregal,* a celebrated
Cluniae abbey, now in ruins, in the parish of Kirk-
oswald in Ayrshire, 2 miles south-west of Maybole.
It is situated on a broad ridge of ground which rises
* Written also Crosragnel, Crossregal, Crosragmol, Crosa-
regall, Crossreguil, and CroBsragwell.
272
CROSSRAGUEL.
considerably above sea-level, but on a part of the
ridge which sinks somewl at under the level of the
immediate environs, and amidst marshy ground.
The walls have greatly crumbled down, and it has
long been unroofed, but it still presents an imposing
front to the passer-by on the highway towards the
east, and is one of the most entire ecclesiastical
edifices of the period. This abbey was founded by
Duncan, Earl of Carrick, about the year 1240. The
last abbot was the celebrated Quentin Kennedy, who
died in 1564. Grose has given three views of the
ruins, and a minute description of them as they
existed in 1796, — supplied by a gentleman resident
in the neighbourhood, — of which the following is an
extract. " Entering the precincts from the north,
where the principal gate stood, you have in front what
I shall call the cathedral of the abbey, which stands
due east and west; the walls are almost entire,
about 164 feet long, and 22 feet high; the architec-
ture in the same Gothic taste which is common in
structures of the same period; the stones in general
not very large. There is but, one door in all this
north side and front of the cathedral, which is near
the west end of it, considerably ornamented, of a
conic shape, 9 feet high, and at the bottom 5 feet
broad. The ground along the whole of the building,
for about twenty paces from the wall, is enclosed
with a bad stone dyke, and set apart for a burying-
place; but is now seldom used Leaving the above-
mentioned door, you turn to the west end of the
cathedral, and go about thirty paces south-west,
which brings you to what is called the Abbot's new
house. It is an oblong tower about 30 feet high ;
below it there is a large arch, through which you pass
before you get to the door of the house, which is
immediately on the south-east side of the arch; this
door leads you up a winding narrow stair built to
the tower, and consisting of three flights of steps ;
the first flight brings you to a room 13 feet by 11,
lighted by two windows, 3 feet high, and 2J feet
broad, the one looking to the south, the other to
the north. The second flight brings you to another
room of exactly the same dimensions and lighted in
the same manner. The third brings you to the top
of the tower, which is surrounded by a parapet wall.
On the top of the staircase is a small building, higher
than the tower, which is said to have been a bell-
house From the west side of this tower, and at
right angles with it, there has been a row of build-
ings, which are now a heap of ruins. At the south
end a dovecot of a very singular construction is still
extant ; the shaft of it is circular, and surrounds a
well of excellent water ; above 5 feet from the
ground it begins to swell, and continues for 6 or
7 feet, then contracts as it rises, till it comes to a
point at the top ; in shape therefore it resembles a
pear, hanging from the tree, or rather an egg stand-
ing on the thickest end. You enter it by a small
door on the north, about 5 feet from the ground ;
the floor is of stone, and serves also as a covering to
the well beneath; the sides within are full of square
holes for pigeons; it is lighted from the top by a
small circular opening, and is still perfectly entire,
16 feet perpendicular, and where widest 8 feet in
diameter. — Returning to the door of the Abbot's
house, you go about ten paces due east, along the
inside of an high wall, which joins to the other
buildings of the abbey; here has been a gate, now
in ruins; entering by the place where the gate stood,
you find yourself on the south-west corner of a court
52 feet square. Round this court there has been a
covered way; vestiges of the arches by which the
covering was supported are still visible : in the midst
of the court was a well, which is now filled up with
rubbish. Walking along the west side of the court,
you find nothing but a strong wall, till you come to
the north-west corner, where is a small arched door,
the sides of which are much broken down; this door
leads into a kind of gallery, 18 feet broad, and 72
feet long ; lighted only by three narrow slips to the
west Turning from this door, you walk 72 feet
along the south wall of the cathedral, which forms
the north side of the court ; in this you find three
doors, one almost at the north-west corner of the
court, and two near the north-east. These doors
are nearly of the same dimensions, 9 feet high, 5
feet broad at the bottom, and semicircular at the
top. The door at the north-west corner of the
court is almost opposite the door in the front or
north wall of the cathedral, which we have already
mentioned, and leads into the choir. This forms
the west part of the cathedral, is of an oblong figure,
88 feet long, and 25 feet broad within the walls,
lighted by five windows, with pointed arches, 10
feet high, and 3 feet broad at the bottom ; there is
but one small window to the south, at the head of
the wall, which has received the light over the
covering of the court ; on the north wall and near
the north-east corner of the choir, is a niche in the
wall, semicircular at the top, 8 feet broad, and 4
feet high, where it is probable the image of the
patron-saint formerly stood -The partition which
divides the choir from the church, or east part of the
cathedral, is pretty entire, and has been furnished
with a pair of bells. Precisely in the middle of the
partition is a door, with a pointed arch, 9 feet high,
and 5 feet broad at the bottom, which leads into the
church; this still retains something of its ancient
magnificence, is of the same breadth with the choir,
but only 76 feet long; the east end of it is semi-
circular, or rather triagonal, adorned with three large
windows, with pointed arches, 11 feet high and 7
feet broad at the bottom. There are six other win-
dows to the north, and one to the south, of the same
shape and height, but only six feet broad. Imme-
diately below the south window, and near the south-
east corner of the church, stands the altar, which
has been greatly ornamented, but is now defaced;
no vestiges of any inscription remain here, or in any
part of the abbey. The altar is 7 feet broad, and
4 feet high, square, but fretted at the top a little to
the left from it. Below the most southerly of the
largest windows, there is a niche in the wall 4 feet
high and 2 broad, concave at the top, but almost
without ornament. In the bottom are two hollows
made in the stone, like the bottom of a plate ; this
is supposed to have been a private altar, perhaps that
of the family of Cassilis. A little to the right of the
principal altar is a small door leading to a ruinous
stair which we shall have occasion to mention im-
mediately. Still farther to the right of the altar,
on the same wall, is a larger door, 7 feet high and 6
broad, with a pointed arch, which leads into a high
arched room, with a pillar in the middle, and a stone
bench round the sides, 20 feet long and 15 broad,
said to be the place where the consistorial court was
held. It is lighted only by one window from the
east; on the left hand, as you enter the room from
the church, there is a door which opens on the ruin-
ous stair already mentioned. This stair has led into
a room immediately above the consistory, precisely
of the same length and breadth, but now level with
the floor. From this room you descend a few steps
into the Abbot's hall, which is 20 feet square, lighted
by two small windows to the east, and one to the
west looking in the court Returning from the
Abbot's hall into the church, by the same door, we
find the door in the south-west corner of the church,
the dimensions of which have been already given.
Going out ct this door we find ourselves in the
CRO
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CUL
north-east corner of the court; walking five paces
from this we come to a door, semicircular at the
top, 8 feet high and 5 broad, which opens into a
room arched in the roof, immediately below the
Abbot's hall, of the same breadth and length, and
hghted from the east by two small windows. Pro-
ceeding from this room to the south-east corner of
the court, you find a ruinous arch, about 24 feet
long, 10 feet high, and 9 broad, with a stone bench
on both sides ; this seems to have led to a number
of cells, which are now a heap of ruins. Turning
from this arch you walk along the south side of the
court, where there is nothing observable but several
small doors, leading into ruinous cells ; what number
of these there may altogether have been, it is now
impossible to determine, as the greatest part of them
are buried under the rubbish of their own walls.
The Abbot's old house, as it is called, is the only
building of the abbey we have not hitherto men-
tioned. This stands immediately to the south-east
of the ruinous cells above described. It has been
an oblong tower; but the east side, in which the
stair has been built, is now fallen down, which pre-
vents its dimensions from being accurately taken ;
they seem, however, to have been nearly the same
with the dimensions of the Abbot's new house."
CROULIN ISLES, a groupe off the coast of
Ross-shire, near the entrance of Loch Carron. The
largest is about a mile in length.
CROVIE, a small fishing-village on the Moray
frith ; in the parish of Gamrie, Banffshire ; 6 miles
west by north of Aberdour.
CROY, a parish partly in the county of Nairn,
and partly in that of Inverness. The extreme length
is about 21 miles; it is so intersected by the par-
ishes of Petty, Daviot, and In verness, that its breadth
cannot be exactly ascertained, but it reaches in some
points to 9 miles. The river Nairn runs through the
parish for 8 miles, and its strath, with the seats of Kil-
ravock, Holme, and Cantray, forms a scene of true
rural amenity and beauty ; the remainder including
Culloden moor, [see Culloden,] is indifferently
cultivated, and has a bleak and naked appearance.
There is one small loch, called the Loch of the
Clans. Valued rental £2,961 16s. 4d. Scots. As-
sessed property, in 1815, £4,500. Population, in
1801, 1,601 ; in 1831, 1,664. Houses in Nairnshire,
in 1831, 140; in Inverness-shire, 206 This parish,
formerly a rectory with the vicarage of Dalcross an-
nexed, is in the presbytery of Nairn, and synod of
Moray. Stipend £239 3s. lOd. ; glebe £11. Un-
appropriated teinds £240 4s. lOd. Patrons, the
Earl of Cawdor, and Rose of Kilravock. Church
built in 1757 ; repaired in 1829; sittings 527. There
is a catechist in the parish.
CRUACHAN. See Ben-Cruachan.
CRUACH-LUSSA, or Cruach Lusach, that
is, ' the Mountain of plants,' a mountain in the dis-
trict of Knapdale, Argyleshire, It stretches over a
great extent of country, being about 8 miles broad
at the base. It has never been exactly measured,
but is thought to exceed 3,000 feet above the level
of the sea. From its summit, in a clear day, a fine
view may be obtained of Islay, Jura, and other
islands of the Hebrides, and of the island of Rathlin
off the Irish coast.
CRDDEN, a parish situated in that district of
Aberdeenshire called Buchan ; bounded by Long-
side and Peterhead parishes on the north; by the
North sea on the east; by Slaines andLogie-Buchan
on the south ; and by Ellon on the west. It extends
about 8 or 9 miles along the coast, and about 7 or
8 miles inland. An immense quantity of peat-moss
stretches along the northern boundary. There are
4 fishing-villages in the parish, at one of which,
I.
Ward, a tolerable harbour might be made. Slaines
castle, the seat of the Earl of Errol, is in this par-
ish. " We came in the afternoon to Slanes castle,"
says Br. Johnson, "built upon the margin of the
sea, so that the walls of one of the towers seem only
a continuation of a perpendicular rock, the foot of
which is beaten by the waves. To walk round the
house seemed impracticable. From the windows,
the eye wanders over the sea that separates Scot-
land from Norway; and when the winds beat with
violence, must enjoy all the terrific grandeur of the
tempestuous ocean. I would not, for my amuse-
ment, wish for a storm; but, as storms, whether
wished or not, will sometimes happen, I may say,
without violation of humanity, that I should will-
ingly look out upon them from Slanes castle."-iThe
Bullers of Buchan, and other stupendous rocks and
precipices on this coast, are much admired for the
awful grandeur they exhibit. See Bullers of
Buchan. — About a mile west of the church are the
remains of a druidical temple. — In this parish was
fought, in the beginning of the 11th century, a battle
between Malcolm II. and Canute, son of Sueno,
afterwards king of England and Denmark. The site
of the field of battle, about a mile west of Slanes
castle, has been ascertained by the discovery of human
bones left exposed by the shifting or blowing of the
sand. From the circumstance of a chapel having
been erected in this neighbourhood dedicated to St.
Olaus — the site of which has become invisible, by
being covered with sand — the assertion of some
writers that a treaty was entered into with the
Danes — who were then Christians — by which it was
stipulated, that the field of battle should be conse-
crated by a bishop as a burying-place for the Danes
who had fallen in battle, and that a church should
be then built and priests appointed in all time coming
to say masses for the souls of the slain, seems very
probable. Another stipulation it is said was made,
by which the Danes agreed to evacuate the Burgh-
head of Moray, and finally to leave every part of the
kingdom, which they accordingly did in the year
1014. Population, in 1801, 1,934; in 1831, 2,120.
Houses 479. Assessed property £4,634 This par-
ish, formerly a rectory belonging to the chapter of
Aberdeen, is in the presbytery of Ellon, and synod
of Aberdeen. Patron, the Earl of Errol. Stipend
£204 7s. 9d. Unappropriated teinds £651 16s.
lOd There is a neat Episcopal chapel at the vil-
lage of Cruden Schoolmaster's salary £26, with
£18 fees.
CRUGLETON. See Sorbie.
CRYSTON. See Chryston.
CUCHULLIN MOUNTAINS. See Skve.
CUILINTRIVE FERRY. See Killmodan.
CULAG, a rivulet in Assynt, Sutherland, which
rises in a series of small lochs to the north-west of
Canisp, and runs into the sea at Loch-Inver, where
there is an excellent fishing-station, and a small vil-
lage of the same name.
CULHORN CASTLE. See Stranraer.
CULLEAN CASTLE. See Colzean.
CULLEN, a parish in Banffshire, lying between
the districts of the Boyne and the Enzie, and con-
sisting of Cullen-Proper, with an annexation, quoad
sacra, from the parish of Rathven. It is bounded
on the north — about a mile in extent — by Cullen
bay, in the Moray frith ; on the east by Fordyce ;
on the south by Deskford; and on the west by
Rathven parishes. From the sea, southwards, Cul-
len-Proper, intersected by the Cullen burn, extends,
inland, about 2 miles; and from east to west, 1
mile. The annexation from Rathven extends about
3 miles in length and 2 in breadth ; and the whole
parish is in the form of a quadrant, having straight
S
274
CULLEN.
lines on the north and east, and on the west and
south a segment of a circle. Assessed property of
parish and burgh, in 1815, £1,312. In 1801, the
population was 1,076; in 1831, 1,593. Houses, in
1831, 340 The soil of this parish, near the shore,
is sand with gravel; elsewhere, a few fields are
strong clay ; others, light loam upon a tilly bottom ;
but in general the soil is a fine rich loam upon a
bottom of soft clay. It is well-drained and culti-
vated, and is suitable to the production of any kind of
crop, except perhaps flax, which, though grown here,
has always been a precarious crop on the east coast of
Scotland. This parish is, on the whole, so dry, and
the hills in the adjoining parishes of Rathven and
Deskford so steadily attract the clouds and vapours
from the sea, that the air of Cullen is pure, and ex-
tremely salubrious. The fields in general have a gentle
slope towards the north and east; but only one emi-
nence, the Bin of Cullen, [which see,] merits the
name of hill or mountain. Previous to 1744, Bin-
hill was covered with heath, but it was then richly
planted to the very summit by the Earl of Findlater
and Seafield, chief proprietor of the domain, whose
seat, named Cullen-house — an ancient but princely
mansion, rich in valuable paintings — stands in the
low grounds, behind the town of Cullen, having a
beautiful prospect to the south, and a fine view of
the Moray frith to the north. It is picturesquely
elevated on a perpendicular rock, along the southern
base of which, the Cullen burn, which animates the
beautiful landscape, passes here within a hollow
rocky channel 64 feet deep beneath the mansion
walls. Over this brook an excellent single-arched
stone-bridge of 82 feet span, connects the woods,
parks, gardens, and pleasure-grounds, with the man-
sion. The plantations, within the umbrageous re-
cesses of which the mansion is embowered, consist
of lofty ash, and a great variety of other valuable
wood, beneath the shady foliage of which a good
bridle-road, besides many delightful serpentine foot-
walks, wind, by the easiest acclivities, to the sum-
mit of the Bin, whence the surrounding country
may be viewed, to a wide extent. Great additional
improvements have been made on these beautiful
policies since their first formation ; and in particular
the gardens and parks have been extended by the
literal removal of the old town of Cullen, which has
been rebuilt in a regular form at some distance. Cul-
len-house now belongs to the family of Grant, Lord
Seafield.. — Not far from Cullen-house is the vestige of
a building in which Elizabeth, queen of Robert the
Bruce, is said to have died Near the town of Cullen,
and overhanging the sea, is an eminence called the
Castlehill, where are the remains of an ancient fort
— without historical record — whence numerous vitri-
fied stones have been extracted. In this quarter of
the parish there are three remarkable masses of flinty
rock, lofty and spiring, named ' the Three Kings of
Cullen.' — The parish is in the presbytery of Fordyce
and synod of Aberdeen. Stipend £156 5s. 8d. ;
glebe £27. Patron, the Earl of Seafield. There
were originally two churches or chapels here : those
of St. Mary and St. Anne. The latter was a pre-
bend. The present church is compounded of the
two former. It is a fabric of respectable antiquity,
having been built previous to the Reformation, and
enlarged about 60 years ago ; but its exterior appear-
ance and situation impress the idea of its being but
a part of the offices of Cullen-house. Sittings 800.
The population of the quoad sacra parish, as ascer-
tained in 1835, was 2,562, of whom 1,500 resided in
the burgh of Cullen, and 750 in the village of Port-
knockie. Schoolmaster's salary £36; fees £15,
with a share of the Dick bequest.
The royal burgh of Cullen, in the above par-
ish, is the second in importance in Banffshire. It
stands on the post-road from Fochabers to Banff,
near Cullen-bay, and east by south of Cullen-
burn, over which the road is carried by a bridge
at the western end of the town. It is 6 miles
west of Portsoy; 12J east of Fochabers; 14 west
by north of Banff; and 58J north-west of Aberdeen.
From its situation at the mouth of the Cullen or
Culan burn, it was anciently called Inverculan.
That part of the town nearest to the mouth of the
burn, however, is at present called Fishertown.
The main part, called the old town, stood more in-
land : it was meanly built, and of little comparative
value or importance, and some years ago was utterly
demolished, in order to make way for the improve-
ments of Cullen-house. The new town, by which'
it was replaced, stands nearer than the old did to
Fishertown, being close to its eastern extremity.
It is a very neat little town. The houses are good,
and the streets laid out on a regidar and tasteful
plan, according to the design of which but a moiety
is yet erected. The Boundary commissioners ob-
serve, however, that, " being favourably situated
for fishing, and in a well-cultivated district, it may
be expected to increase." In the middle of Seafield-
street, and apparently intended as the centre of the
future -town, is an open market place. Upper Castle-
street, running south-west, parallel to Seafield-street,
and at right angles with the street leading through
the market to the burying-place, at the north-east-
ern extremity of the ground-plan of the town, is
another principal street. The length of Seafield-
street is about 400 yards, and of Upper Castle-street
300 yards : the street running to the burying-ground,
though as yet only built for half its length, extends
to between 500 and 600 yards, according to the
plan. The Banff and Fochabers post-road branches
off through the two first streets, forming between
them, at their south-eastern extremities, near Cul-
len-house, an angular area of ornamental ground at
the entrance to the town. The symmetrical form of
the new town — which enjoys a circle of genteel so-
ciety, consisting of persons of moderate incomes — pre-
sents a curious contrast to the contiguous unusually
'awkward squad' of fishermen's houses constituting
Fishertown, and which display a total independence
even of anything like partial subordination to the
' rank and file ' of streets. A natural local dis-
advantage of Cullen is the want of a plentiful supply
of good water. There is but one good spring ; and
to the Cullen burn there is considerable difficulty of
access, from the steepness of its banks. The town,
however, has been supplied through pipes from the
quoad sacra annexation from Rathven parish. There
is a harbour placed in a convenient position, and
belonging to the Seafield family, now the chief
proprietors of the whole domain; but it is said to
be of no great use. There is little trade, except
in fish, such as cod, skate, ling, and haddocks, with
which not only the town and district are plentifully
supplied, but a considerable quantity is cured and
dried, for sale at Montrose, Arbroath, Dundee, and
Leith, to which they are carried in the Cullen fish-
ing boats. There is at present no manufacture of
any consequence, although a late Earl of Findlater,
about the year 1748, introduced the linen and da-
mask manufacture, which flourished to a considerable
extent, and is still carried on, together with the
bleaching of linen goods. Besides coal, which may
be imported at the harbour, the inhabitants are
abundantly supplied with moss and peat, obtained in
the vicinity, and from Deskford parish. The town
has fairs on the 3d Friday in May and the last Tues-
day of September, for cattle and horses.
Though Cullen is now principally a modern town,
CUL
li/a
CUL
it is a burgh of considerable antiquity, as is proved
by a charter of James I., dated 6th March, 1455;
ratifying another of Robert I., by which were granted
to this burgh the usual liberties, privileges, and ad-
vantages. Similar to Banff, it was at one time a
constabulary, of which the Earl of Findlater was
hereditary constable, by virtue of an ancient right.
He ultimately became hereditary chief-magistrate,
without either the Scotch title of provost or the
English dignity of lord-mayor, but merely under that
of preses. Thus far the old constitution of this
royal burgh was peculiar. The acting magistracy
consisted of 3 bailies, a dean-of-guild, a treasurer,
and 21 councillors; in all 26; the jurisdiction ex-
tending over a district of about 2 miles from east to
west, and 2 from north to south ; but for many years
no burgh-courts were held. There have been here
no corporations ; every one being entitled to buy,
sell, and manufacture as he chose. Burgess-ship
was constituted simply by giving a ' Burgess act.'
Merchant-councillors were chosen from the sellers
of goods, trades' councillors from handicraftsmen.
The burgh is now governed by a provost, and 19
councillors. Municipal constituency, in 1839, 30.
The territory over which the jurisdiction of the
burgh is now exercised extends from the burn-mouth
of Cullen, along the bay, to Maiden-paps; thence
due south to the Loggie road; thence, in straight
lines, to the point at which the Deskford and the
Banff roads meet ; thence to the point at which the
Seafield and the Slacks roads meet; and thence to
the bridge over the Cullen-burn, the boundary ter-
minating at the burn-mouth. Though the sheriff-
court be within a few miles, and town-courts at the
door, the amity and good feeling of the inhabitants
ire stated, in the old Statistical report, to have been
io great, that " hardly such a thing as a lawsuit is
heard of among them." The only place of confine-
ment is a lock-up house, erected about 18 yeaFS ago
for the short imprisonment of petty delinquents,
md, in case of need, for the safe custody of prisoners
on their way to the county-jail at Banff. This
lock-up house consists of 3 cells, vaulted, paved,
and light, but without fire-place or airing-ground.
The property of this burgh was in ancient times
considerable; but it was aUenated to the Seafield
family. There had been no alienations during 40
years previous to 1833. The property recently con-
sisted of feu-duties, houses, and money. The value
of the feu-duties, in 1833, was nearly £411 3s. 4d.,
and the sums of money amounted to £325 10s., of
which £250 were lent to the curator of the Earl of
Seafield. The revenue of the burgh, in 1833, was
£73 0s. TfVd. ; expenditure £42 3s. lid. There
were no debts. In 1838-9 the revenue was £67
8s. 9d. The appointment, during pleasure, of the
dean-of-guild, procurator fiscal, treasurer, town-
clerk, and town-officer, with almost nominal sala-
ries, constitutes all the offices under the patronage
of the burgh ; hut there are two mortifications said
to be under the management of the magistrates and
kirk-session — these are Lorrimer's and Latta's bur-
saries; the first for educating a student at the uni-
versity of Aberdeen ; the second for educating a boy
at the school of Cullen. The permanent assess-
ments are land-tax, stent, burgh-mail, and cess and
land cess. Cullen unites with Elgin, Banff, Kin-
tore, Peterhead, Macduff, and Inverury, in return-
ing a member to parliament. The parliamentary
constituency, in 1839, was 30. The parliamentary
borough-boundaries are not nearly so extensive as
the royalty.
CULLICUDDEN, an ancient rectory, belonging
to the Chapter of Ross, now comprehended in the
parish of Kikk-Michael : which see. The church
is demolished, but the churchyard is still in use. It
is 10J miles west-south-west of Cromarty. The
Gaelic name of this parish is Couill-Chutigin, i.e.
' The Creek of Cuddies,' — a small, delicate species
of fish well-known on all the coasts of Scotland,
and which, during summer and the beginning of
harvest, are caught in great numbers along the frith
of Cromarty, and particularly in a small creek a little
above the old kirk here.
CULLODEN, a large moory ridge in the parish
of Croy, from 3 to 5 miles east of Inverness, memor-
able for the total defeat of Prince Charles's army, on
the 16th April, 1746, by the King's troops under the
Duke of Cumberland. It is sometimes called Drum-
mossie moor. The spot selected by Charles for the
engagement was about 1 J mile to the south of Cul-
loden house, on a ridge of the moor declining to-
wards the river Nairn on the south. Immediately
to the south of his position was a square enclosure
of stone which extended to the banks of the Nairn,
and the northern wall of which covered his right
flank. In his front the moor was marshy and soft ;
and on the left, though at a considerable distance,
were the woods of Culloden house.
The Highland army was drawn up by Sullivan in
three lines. The first, or front line, consisted of the
Athole brigade, which had the right, the Camerons,
Stewarts of Appin, John Roy Stewart's regiment,
Frasers, Mackintoshes, Farquharsons, Maclachlans,
and Macleans, united into one regiment ; the Mac-
leods, Chisholms, Macdonalds of Clanranald, Kep-
poch, and Glengary. The three Macdonald regiments
formed the left. Lord George Murray commanded
on the right, Lord John Drummond in the centre,
and the Duke of Perth on the left, of the first
line. There had been, a day or two before, a
violent contention among the chiefs about pre-
cedency of rank. The Macdonalds claimed the
right as their due, in support of which claim they
stated, that, as a reward for the fidelity of Angus
Macdonald, Lord of the Isles, in protecting Robert
the Bruce for upwards of nine months in his do-
minions, that prince, at the battle of Bannockburn,
conferred the post of honour, the right, upon the
Macdonalds, — that this post had ever since been en-
joyed by them, unless when yielded from courtesy
upon particular occasions, as was done to the chief
of the Macleans at the battle of Haiiaw. Lord
George Murray, however, maintained that, under
the Marquis of Montrose, the right had been as-
signed to the Athole men, and he insisted that that
post should be now conferred upon them, in the con-
test with the Duke of Cumberland's army. In this
unseasonable demand, Lord George is said to have
been supported by Lochiel and his friends. Charles
refused to decide a question with the merits of which
he was imperfectly acquainted ; but, as it was ne-
cessary to adj ust the difference immediately, he pre-
vailed upon the commanders of the Macdonald regi-
ments to waive their pretensions in the present
instance. The Macdonalds in general were far from
being satisfied with the complaisance of their com-
manders, and, as they had occupied the post of
honour at Gladsmuir and Falkirk, they considered
their deprivation of it, on the present occasion, as
ominous. The Duke of Perth, while he stood at
the head of the Glengary regiment, hearing the mur-
murs of the Macdonalds, said, that if they behaved
with their usual valour, they would make a right of
the left, and that he would change his name to Mac-
donald ; but these proud clansmen lent a deaf ear to
him The second line of the Highland army consisted
of the Gordons under Lord Lewis Gordon, formed in
column on the right, the French Royal Scots, the
Irish piquets or brigade, Lord Kilmarnock's foot
276
CULLODEN.
guards, Lord John Drummond's regiment, and Glen-
bucket's regiment in column on the left, flanked on
the right by Fitz-James's dragoons, and Lord Elcho's
horse-guards, and on the left by the Perth squadron,
under Lords Strathallan and Pitsligo, and the Prince's
body-guards unde Lord Balmerino. General Staple-
ton had the command of this line The third line,
or reserve, consisted of the Duke of Perth's and
Lord Ogilvy's regiments, under the last-mentioned
nobleman. The Prince himself, surrounded by a
troop of Fitz-James's horse, took his station on a
very small eminence behind the centre of the first
line, from which he had a complete view of the
whole field of battle. The extremities of the fro/it
line and the centre were each protected by four
pieces of cannon The English army continued
steadily to advance till within a mile of the position
occupied by the Highland army, when the Duke of
Cumberland ordered a halt, and, after reconnoitring
the position of the Highlanders, again formed his
army for battle in three lines, and in the following
order : — The first line consisted of six regiments,
viz., the Royals, (the 1st,) Cholmondley's, (the
31th,) Price's, (the 14th,) the Scots Fusileers, (the
21st,). Monro's, (the 37th,) and Barrel's (the 4tb).
The Earl of Albemarle had the command of this
line. In the intermediate spaces between each of
these regiments were placed two pieces of cannon,
making ten in whole. The second line, which con-
sisted of five regiments, comprised those of Pul-
teney, (the 13th,) Bligh, (the 20th,) Sempil, (the
25th,) Ligonier, (the 48th,) and Wolfe's, (the 8th,)
and was under the command of General Huske.
Three pieces of cannon were placed between the
exterior regiments of this line and those next them.
The third line, or corps de reserve, under Brigadier
Mordaunt, consisted of four regiments, viz., Bat-
tereau's, (the 62d,) Howard's, (the 3d,) Fleming's,
(the 36th,) and Blakeney's, (the 27th,) flanked by
Kingston's dragoons (the 3d). The order in which
the regiments of the different lines are enumerated,
is that in which they stood from right to left. The
flanks of the front line were protected on the left
by Kerr's dragoons, (the 11th,) consisting of three
squadrons, commanded by Lord Ancrum, and on the
right by Cobham's dragoons, (the 10th,) consisting
also of three squadrons, under General Bland, with
the additional security of a morass, extending to-
wards the sea ; but thinking himself quite safe on
the right, the Duke afterwards ordered these last
to the left, to aid in an intended attack upon the
right flank of the Highlanders. The Argyle men,
with the exception of 140, who were upon the left
of the reserve, were left in charge of the baggage.
The dispositions of both armies are considered to
have been well-arranged ; but both were better cal-
culated for defence than for attack. The arrange-
ment of the English army is generally considered
to have been superior to that of the Highlanders;
as, from the regiments in the second and third lines
being placed directly behind the vacant spaces be-
tween the regiments in the lines respectively be-
fore them, the Duke of Cumberland, in the event
of one regiment in the front line being broken,
could immediately bring up two to supply its place.
But this opinion is questionable, as the Highlanders
had a column on the flanks of the second line, which
might have been used either for extension or eschellon
movement towards any point to the centre, to sup-
port either the first or second line. In the disposi-
tions described, and about the distance of a mile from
each other, did the two armies stand for some time
gazing at one another, each expecting that the other
would advance and give battle. Whatever may have
been the feelings of Prince Charles on this occasion,
those of the Duke of Cumberland appear to have
been far from enviable. The thoughts of Preston
and Falkirk could not fail to excite in him the most
direful apprehensions for the result of a combat
affecting the very existence of his father's crown ;
and that he placed but a doubtful reliance upon his
troops, is evident from a speech which he now made
to his army. He began by informing them, that
they were about to fight in defence of their king,
their religion, their liberties, and property, and that
if they only stood firm he had no doubt he would
lead them on to certain victory ; but as he would
much rather, he said, be at the head of one thousand
brave and resolute men than of ten thousand if mixed
with cowards, he added, that if there were any
amongst them, who, through timidity, were diffident
of their courage, or others, who, from conscience or
inclination, felt a repugnance to perform their duty,
he requested them to retire immediately, and he pro-
mised them his free pardon for doing so, as by re-
maining they might dispirit or disorder the other
troops, and bring dishonour and disgrace on the army
under his command. As the Highlanders remained
in their position, the Duke of Cumberland again put
his army in marching order, and, after it had ad-
vanced, with fixed bayonets, within half-a-mile of
the front line of the Highlanders, it again formed
as before. In this last movement the English army
had to pass a piece of hollow ground, which was so
soft and swampy, that the horses which drew the
cannon sunk ; and some of the soldiers, after sling-
ing their firelocks and unyoking the horses, had to
drag the cannon across the bog. As by this last
movement the army advanced beyond the morass
which protected the right flank, the Duke imme-
diately ordered up Kingston's horse from the reserve,
and a small squadron of Cobham's dragoons, which
had been patrolling, to cover it ; and to extend his
line, and prevent his being outflanked on the right, he
also at the same time ordered up Pulteney's regiment,
(the 13th,) from the second fine to the right of the
royals ; and Fleming's, (the 36th,) Howard's, (the
3d,) and Battereau's, (the 62d,) to the right of
Bligh's, (the 20th,) in the second line, leaving
Blakeney's, (the 27th,) as a reserve. During an
interval of about half an hour which elapsed before
the action commenced, some manoeuvring took place
in attempts by both armies to outflank one another.
While these manoeuvres were making, a heavy
shower of sleet came on, which, though discourag-
ing to the Duke's army, from the recollection of the
untoward occurrence at Falkirk, was not considered
very dangerous, as they had now the wind in their
backs. To encourage his men, the Duke of Cum-
berland rode along the lines addressing himself hur-
riedly to every regiment as he passed. He exhorted
his men to rely chiefly upon their bayonets, and to
allow the Highlanders to mingle with them that they
might make them " know the men they had to deal
with." After the changes mentioned had been exe-
cuted, his royal highness took his station behind the
royals, between the first and second line, and almost
in front of the left of Howard's regiment, waiting
for the expected attack. Meanwhile, a singular oc-
currence took place, characteristic of the self-devo-
tion which the Highlanders were ready on all
occasions to manifest towards the Prince and his
cause. Conceiving that by assassinating the Duke
of Cumberland he would confer an essential service
to the Prince, a Highlander resolved, at the certain
sacrifice of his own life, to make the attempt. With
this intention, he entered the English lines as a de-
serter, and being granted quarter, was allowed to go
through the ranks. He wandered about with ap-
parent indifference, eyeing the different officers as he
CULLODEN.
277
passed along, and it was not long till an opportunity
occurred, as lie conceived, for executing his fell pur-
pose. The Duke having ordered Lord Bury, one of
his aides-de-camp, to reconnoitre, his Lordship
crossed the path of the Highlander, who, mistaking
him, from his dress, for the Duke, (the regimentals
of both being similar,) instantly seized a musket
which lay on the ground, and discharged it at his
Lordship. Fortunately he missed his aim, and a
soldier who was standing by immediately shot him
dead upon the spot. In expectation of a battle the
previous day, Charles had animated his troops by an
appeal to their feelings, and on the present occasion
he rode from rank to rank encouraging his men, and
exhorting them to act as they had done at Preston-
pans and at Falkirk.
The .advance of Lord Bury, who went forward
within a nundred yards of the insurgents to recon-
noitre, appears to have been considered by the High-
landers as the proper occasion for beginning the
battle. Taking off their bonnets, the Highlanders
set up a loud shout, which being answered by the
royal troops with an huzza, the Highlanders about
one o'clock commenced a cannonade on the right,
which was followed by the cannon on the left ;
but the fire from the last, owing to the want of
cannoneers, was after the first round discontinued.
The first volley from the right seemed to create
some confusion on the left of the royal army, but
so badly were the cannon served and pointed, that
though the cannonade was continued upwards of
half an hour, only one man in Bligh's regiment,
who had a leg carried off by a cannon-ball, received
any injury. After the Highlanders had continued
firing for a short time, Colonel Belford, who di-
rected the cannon of the Duke's army, opened a
fire from the cannon in the front line, which was
at first chiefly aimed at the horse, probably either
because they, from their conspicuous situation, were
a better mark than the infantry, or because it was
supposed that Charles was among them. Such was
the accuracy of the aim taken by the royal artillery,
that several balls entered the ground among the
horses' legs, and bespattered the Prince with the
mud which they raised ; and one of them struck
the horse on which he rode two inches above the
knee. The animal became so unmanageable, that
Charles was obliged to change him for another. One
of his servants, who stood behind with a led horse
in his hand, was killed on the spot. Observing
that the wall on the right flank of the Highland
army prevented him from attacking it on that point,
the Duke ordered Colonel Belford to continue the
cannonade, with the view of provoking the High-
landers and inducing them to advance to the attack.
These, on the other hand, endeavoured to draw the
royal army forward by sending down several parties
by way of defiance. Some of these approached three
several times within a hundred yards of the right
of the royal army, firing their pistols and brandish-
ing their swords ; but with the exception of the
small squadron of horse on the right, which ad-
vanced a little, the line remained immoveable.
Meanwhile, Lord George Murray, observing that a
squadron of the English dragoons and a party of
foot, consisting of two companies of the Argyle-
shiremen, and one of Lord Loudon's Highlanders,
had detached themselves from the left of the royal
army, and were marching down towards the river
Nairn, and conceiving that it was their intention
to flank the Highlanders, or to come upon their
rear when engaged in front, he directed Gordon of
Avochy to advance with his battalion, and prevent
the foot from entering the enclosure ; but before
this battalion could reach them, they broke into
the enclosure, and throwing down part of the east
wall, and afterwards a piece of the west wall in
the rear of the second line, made a free passage for
the dragoons, who formed in the rear of the Prince's
army. Upon this, Lord George ordered the guards
and Fitz-James's horse to form opposite to the dra-
goons to keep them in check. Each party stood
upon the opposite sides of a ravine, the ascent to
which was so steep, that neither could venture
across in presence of the other with safety. The
foot remained within the enclosure, and Avochy 's
battalion was ordered to watch their motions. This
movement took place about the time the Highlanders
were moving forward to the attack.
It was now high time for the Highlanders to come
to a close engagement. Lord George had sent
Colonel Kerr to the Prince, to know if he should
begin the attack, which the Prince accordingly
ordered ; but his Lordship, for some reason or other,
delayed advancing. It is probable he expected that
the Duke would come forward, and that by doing so,
and retaining the wall and a small farm-house on his
right, he would not run the risk of being flanked.
Perhaps he waited for the advance of the left wing,
which, being not so far forward as the right, was
directed to begin the attack, and orders had been
sent to the Duke of Perth to that effect ; but the
left remained motionless. Anxious for the attack,
Charles sent an order by an aid-de-camp to Lord
George Murray to advance, but his Lordship never
received it, as the bearer was killed by a cannon-ball
while on his way to the right. He sent a message
about the same time to Lochiel, desiring him to urge
upon Lord George the necessity of an immediate
attack. Galled beyond endurance by the fire of the
English, which carried destruction among the clans,
the Highlanders became quite clamorous, and called
aloud to be led forward without further delay. Un-
able any longer to restrain their impatience, Lord
George had just resolved upon an immediate advance,
but before he had time to issue the order along the
line, the Mackintoshes, with a heroism worthy of
that brave clan, rushed forward enveloped in the
smoke of the enemy's cannon. The fire of the
centre field-pieces, and a discharge of musquetry
from the Scotch Fusileers, forced them to incline
a little to the right ; but all the regiments to their
right, led on by Lord George Murray in person,
and the united regiment of the Maclauchlans and
Macleans on their left, coming down close after
them, the whole moved forward together at a pretty
quick pace. When within pistol-shot of the Eng-
lish line, they received a murderous fire, not only
in front from some field-pieces, which for the first
time were now loaded with grape-shot, but in flank
from a side-battery supported by the Campbells,
and Lord Loudon's Highlanders. Whole ranks were
literally swept away by the terrible fire of the Eng-
lish. Yet, notwithstanding the dreadful carnage in
their ranks, the Highlanders continued to advance,
and, after giving their fire close to the English fine,
which, from the density of the smoke, was scarcely
perceptible even within pistol-shot, the right wing,
consisting of the Athole Highlanders and the Came-
rons, rushed in sword in hand, and broke through
Barrel's and Monroe's regiments, which stood on
the left of the first line. These regiments bravely
defended themselves with their spontoons and bay-
onets, but such was the impetuosity of the onset,
that they would entirely have been cut to pieces
had they not been immediately supported by two
regiments from the second line, on the approach of
which they retired behind the regiments on their
right, after sustaining a loss in killed and wounded
of upwards of two hundred men. After breaking
278
CULLODEN
through these two regiments, the Highlanders, pass-
ing by the two field-pieces which had annoyed them
in front, hurried forward to attack the left of the
second line. They were met by a tremendous fire
of grape-shot from the three field-pieces on the left
of the second line, and by a discharge of musquetry
from Bligh's and Sempill's regiments, which carried
havock through their ranks, and made them at first
recoil ; hut, maddened by despair, and utterly re-
gardless of their lives, they rushed upon an enemy
whom they felt but could not see, amid the cloud
of smoke in which the assailants were buried. The
same kind of charge was made by the Stewarts of
Appin, the Frasers, Mackintoshes, and the other
centre regiments upon the regiments in their front,
which they drove back upon the second line, which
they also attempted to break ; but finding them-
selves unable'they gave up the contest, but not until
numbers had been cut down at the mouths of the
cannon. While advancing towards the second line,
Lord George Murray, in attempting to dismount
from his horse, which had become unmanageable,
was thrown ; but, recovering himself, he ran to the
rear and brought up two or three regiments from
the second line to support the first ; but although
they gave their fire, nothing could be done, — all was
lost. Unable to break the second line, and being
greatly cut up by the fire of Wolfe's regiment, and
by Cobham's and Kerr's dragoons, who had formed
en potence on their right flank, the right wing also
gave up the contest, and turning about, cut their
way back, sword in hand, through those who had
advanced and formed on the ground they had passed
over in charging to their front. In consequence of
the unwillingness of the left to advance first as di-
rected, Lord George Murray had sent the order to
attack from right to left ; but, hurried by the im-
petuosity of the Mackintoshes, the right and centre
did not wait till the order, which required some
minutes in the delivery, had been communicated
along the line. Thus the right and centre had the
start considerably, and quickening their pace as they
went along, had closed with the front line of the
English army before the left had got half way over
the ground that separated the two armies. The
difference between the right and centre and the left
was rendered still more considerable from the cir-
cumstance, as noted by an eye-witness, that the two
armies were not exactly parallel to one another, the
right of the Prince's army being nearer the Duke's
army than the left. Nothing could be more unfor-
tunate for the Prince than this isolated attack, as it
was only by a general shock of the whole of the
English line that he had any chance of a victory.
The clan regiments on the left of the line, apprehen-
sive that they would be flanked by Pulteney's regi-
ment and the horse which had been brought up from
the corps de reserve, did not advance sword in hand.
After receiving the fire of the regiments opposite to
them, they answered it by a general discharge, and
drew their swords for the attack ; but observing that
the right and centre had given way, they turned
their backs and fled without striking a blow. Stung
to the quick by the misconduct of the Macdonalds,
the brave Keppoch seeing himself abandoned by his
clan, advanced with his drawn sword in one hand,
and his pistol in the other ; but he had not proceeded
far, when he was brought down to the ground by a
musket-shot. He was followed by Donald Roy
Macdonald, formerly a lieutenant in his own regi-
ment, and now a captain in Clanranald's regiment,
who, on his falling, entreated him not to throw away
his life, assuring him that his wound was not mortal,
and that he might easily join his regiment in the re-
treat; but Keppoch refused to listen to the solicita-
tions of his clansman, and, after recommending him
to take care of himself, the wounded chief received
another shot, and fell to rise no more.'
Fortunately for the Highlanders the English armv
did not follow up the advantages it had gained by an
immediate pursuit. Kingston's horse at first followed
the Macdonalds, some of whom were almost sur-
rounded by them, hut the horse were kept in check
by the French piquets, who brought them off. The
dragoons on the left of the English line were in like
manner kept at bay by Ogilvy's regiment, which
faced about upon them several times. After these
ineffectual attempts, the English cavalry on the right
and left met in the centre, and the front line having
dressed its ranks, orders were issued for the whole
to advance in pursuit of the Highlanders. Charles,
who, from the small eminence on which he stood,
had observed with the deepest concern the defeat
and flight of the clan regiments, was about proceed-
ing forward to rally them contrary to the earnest
entreaties of Sir Thomas Sheridan and others, who
assured him that he would not succeed. All their
expostulations would, it is said, have been vain, had
not General O'Sullivan laid hold of the bridle of
Charles's horse, and led him off the field. It was,
indeed, full time to retire, as the whole army was
now in full retreat, and was followed by the whole
of Cumberland's forces. To protect the Prince, and
secure his retreat, most of his horse assembled about
his person ; but there was little danger, as the vic-
tors advanced very leisurely, and confined themselves
to cutting down some defenceless stragglers who fell
in their way. After leaving the field, Charles put
himself at the head of the right wing, which retired
in such order, that the cavalry sent to pursue upon
it could make no impression.
" The battle was fought on a ridge of the moor
j ust where its general surface begins to incline to-
wards the river Nairn. A new carriage road from
Inverness has recently been made through it, which
touches the principal line of graves at their northern
extremity. Before reaching them, the castle of
Dalcross, which had been seen raising its square mas-
sive form a little to the left of a wood which ter-
minates the moor on the east, disappears from the
view, and shortly afterwards, in the very opposite
direction, the pine-elad conoidal summit of Dun
Daviot comes in sight, closing in the vista on the
south-west. Then, where a considerable portion of
the road before the passenger — about ^ of a mile in
length— »leads the eye directly to the top of a tabular
rocky hill bearing south-east, at the distance of 5 or
6 miles, it will be found that a straight line drawn
from Dun Daviot, just mentioned, to Fort-George,
which is seen rising at the termination of a long
peninsula jutting out into the Moray Frith, will cut
across the public road just at the collection of graves
sought for. They consist of two or three grass-
covered mounds, rising slightly above the adjoining
heath, at the distance of about 200 or 300 yards from
a small patch of corn-land and a cluster of cottages,
between which and them a marshy hollow also in-
tervenes. On all sides the prospect is here bleak
and dreary ; while the general smoothness of the
ground" points it out as favourable for the move-
ments of' cavalry and artillery, but proportionably
ill adapted for the protection or defence of the foot
soldier. Such is the nature of the ground on which
Prince Charles Edward ventured to peril his cause
against the disciplined troops of England. His army
was drawn up a little to the west of the graves, in a
line right across the moor inclining towards the parks
of Culloden house." [Anderson's 'Guide to the
Highlands.' London: 1834. pp. 107, 108.]— We
close this article on a locality most deeply interesting
CUL
279
CUL
to every Scotsman by quoting; two stanzas from an
Ode on Culloden, by the late John Grieve, first pub-
'ished in Hogg's Jacobite Relics : — ■
" Culloden, on thy swarthy brow
Spring no wild flowers or verdure fair ;
Thou feel'st not summer's genial glow,
More than the freezing wintry air !
For once thou drank'st the hero's blood,
And war's unhallowed footsteps bore :
The deeds unholy Nature viewed,
Then fled and curBed thee evermore!
" Shades of the mighty and the brave,
Who, faithful to your Stuart, fell ;
No trophies mark your common grave,
Nor dirges to your memory swell !
But generous hearts will weep your fate,
When far has rolled the tide of time ;
And bards unborn shall renovate
Your fading fame in loftiest rhyme ! "
CULLODEN HOUSE, in the parish of Inver-
ness ; 4 miles north-east by east of Inverness, the
seat of the ancient and respectable family of Forbes.
Prince Charles lodged here the night before the me-
morable battle, on the 16th of April, 1746. By a
curious coincidence, the important and decisive battle
of Culloden was fought on the moor of the paternal
estate of that great and good man, Lord-president
Forbes, whose influence in the Highlands, and un-
wearied perseverance during the two preceding years,
made the suppression of a very alarming insurrec-
tion comparatively easy to Government. The man-
sion-house of Culloden has been renewed since 1745.
It stands on the verge of the moor, surrounded by
plantations, and commanding a noble view of the
Moray frith, and of the mountains on the opposite
side of the Nairn. Captain Burt, in his well-known
' Letters from a Gentleman in the North of Scot-
land'— which were written, from personal observa-
tion, about the year 1730 — describes the old house of
Culloden as being " a pretty large fabric, built with
stone, and divided into rooms, among which the hall
is very spacious. There are good gardens belonging
to it, and a noble-planted avenue, of great length,
that leads to the house, and a plantation of trees
about it. This house—or castle — was besieged, in
the year 1715, by a body of the rebels ; and the laird
being absent in parliament, his lady baffled all their
attempts with extraordinary courage and presence of
mind. Nearly adjoining are the parks — that is, one
large tract of ground, surrounded with a low wall of
loose stones, and divided into several parts by parti-
tions of the same. The surface of the ground is all
over heath, or, as they call it, heather, without any
trees; but some of it has been lately sown with the
seed of firs, which are now grown about a foot and
a half high, but are hardly to be seen for the heath.
An English captain, the afternoon of the day fol-
lowing his arrival here from London, desired me to
ride out with him, and show him the parks of Cul-
loden, without telling me the reason of his curiosity.
Accordingly we set out, and when we were pretty
near the place, he asked me, — ' Where are these
parks? For,' says he, ' there is nothing near in view
tut heath, and, at a distance, rocks and mountains.'
I pointed to the enclosure ; and, being a little way
before him, heard him cursing in soliloquy, which
occasioned my making a halt, and asking if any thing
had displeased him. Then he told me, that, at a
coffee-house in London, he was one day commend-
ing the park of Studley, in Yorkshire, and those of
several other gentlemen in other parts of England,
when a Scots captain, who was by, cried out — ' Ah,
sir ! but if you were to see the parks at Culloden,
in Scotland ! ' This my companion repeated several
times with different modulations of voice ; and, then,
in an angry manner, swore, if he had known how gross-
ly he had been imposed on, he could not have put up
with so great an affront. But I should have told
you, that every one of the small divisions above-
mentioned is called a separate park, and that the
reason for making some of the inner walls has been
to prevent the hares, with which, as I said before,
the country abounds, from cropping the tender tops
of these young firs." The Culloden estates were
for upwards of thirty years under trust management.
Some curious particulars respecting this trust are
given in ' Tait's Magazine' for May 1840. On the
6th of April, 1841, they came into the free possession
of Arthur Forbes, Esq. of Culloden.
CULROSS,* a parish belonging to Perthshire,
though locally disjoined from it by the intervention
of Clackmannanshire, and politically conjoined with
the shires of Clackmannan and Kinross. It forms
nearly a square of 4 miles, containing 8,145 Scots
acres; and is bounded on the west by Tulliallan;
on the north-west by Clackmannan; on the north
by Saline ; on the east by Torryburn ; and on the
south by the frith of Forth. The barony of Kin-
cardine was disjoined from this parish in 1672, and
united to Tulliallan. The surface is level, if we
except the abrupt ascent from the shore. The north-
ern part of the parish consists of a large moor which
is planted with wood; the southern is fertile, and
particularly that part of it which is intersected by
the Bluther, which, uniting with another streamlet
called the Grange, falls into the sea at Newmill
bridge, where it forms the eastern boundary of the
parish. It abounds with freestone, ironstone, ochre,
and a species of clay highly valued by potters and
by glass-manufacturers. Coal, the chief mineral
product, was wrought here at a very remote period
by the monks of Culross abbey, to whom it belonged.
Colville, commendator of the abbey in 1575, let the
coal to Sir George Bruce of Blairhall, who resumed
the working of it, and was the first in the island
who drained coal-pits by means of machinery. Be-
low the house of Castlehill, about a quarter of a
mile west of Culross, are still some remains of the
masonry employed in the erection of an Egyptian
wheel — commonly called a chain and bucket — for
draining the pits. Sir George carried on these coal-
works with great spirit. A pit was sunk here,
which entering from the land, was carried nearly a
mile out into the sea: the coal being shipped by a
moat within sea-mark, which had a subterranean
communication with the pit. This pit was reckoned
one of the greatest wonders in the island, by Taylor,
an English traveller, who saw it in the beginning of
the 17th century. There is a tradition, that James
VI., revisiting his native country after his accession
to the English crown, made an excursion into Fife ;
and, resolving to take the diversion of hunting in
the neighbourhood of Dunfermline, invited the com-
pany then attending him to dine along with him at
" a collier's house," meaning the Abbey-house of
Culross, then belonging to Sir George Bruce. Being
conducted, by his own desire, to see the works be-
low ground, he was led insensibly by bis host and
guide to the moat above-mentioned, it being then
high water ; and, having ascended from the pit, and
seeing himself, without any previous intimation,
surrounded by the sea, he was seized with an im-
mediate apprehension of some plot against his liberty
or life, and hastily called out, " Treason! Treason 1"
But his faithful guide quickly dispelled his fears, by
* The name Culross is evidently of Gaelic origin, and is
compounded of cut and rots ; the first, signifying 'back,' or,
more properly, what is expressed by c/unis in Latin ; and rose,
*a peninsula.' The peninsula here referred to being the whole
district between the friths of Tay and Forth, and which for-
merly went under the general name of Ross. — Old Statistical
Account. — The name is pronounced Caoross.
280
CULROSS.
assuring him that he was in perfect safety ; and,
pointing to an elegant pinnace that was made fast to
the moat, desired to know whether it was most
agreeable to his majesty to be carried ashore in it,
or to return by the same way he came ; upon which
the king, preferring the shortest way back, was car-
ried directly ashore, expressing much satisfaction at
what he had seen. It is certain, that at that time
the king was sumptuously entertained at the Abbey-
house. Some of the glasses then made use of in the
dessert are still preserved in the family ; and the
room where bis majesty was entertained retains the
name of ' the King's room. ' The great coal-pit of Cul-
ross was destroyed by a violent storm, which, in the
month of March, 1625, washed away the stone bul-
wark, and drowned the coal. From this catastrophe
the Culross collieries never recovered ; and the stones
of the rampart were afterwards sold to the magis-
trates of Edinburgh, who employed them in repairing
the pier of Leith. — Valleyfield house, in the eastern
part of the parish, is a splendid mansion ; as is also
the house of Blair. The house of Castlehill is built
on the site of an ancient castle of the Macduffs, called
Dunnemarle, where it is said Macbeth murdered the
wife and two children of that nobleman. There are
also the vestiges of two Danish camps in this parish.
Population, in 1801, 1,502; in 1831, 1,488. Houses,
in 1831, 263. Assessed property, in 1815, £5,497.
Besides the burgh of Culross, the parish contains
the villages of Valleyfield and Blairburn This par-
ish is in the presbytery of Dunfermline, and synod of
Fife. The charge is collegiate. Both charges are
at present in the patronage of Lady Keith and Lady
Baird alternately. Stipend of 1st charge, £156 6s.
10d., with glebe of the value of £20; of the 2d,
£116 9s. 2d., with glebe of the value of £25
Salary of parish-schoolmaster £34 4s. 4Jd., with
£28 10s. fees. There are two private schools.
Besides what are properly called the parish-funds,
there are the following hospitals and charitable foun-
dations belonging to Culross, or in which it has an
interest. In 1637, Thomas, Earl of Elgin, son of
Lord Bruce of Kinloss, founded and endowed an
hospital in the east part of the town of Culross, for
the maintenance of 12 aged persons of the borough
and parish of Culross, to be presented by him and
his successors, and commissioners appointed for that
effect, reserving power to him and his heirs to nomi-
nate others, though not of the parish of Culross.
In 1639, George Bruce of Carnock founded and
endowed an hospital in the west part of the town,
for the maintenance of 6 decayed poor and aged
women, widows of colliers or salters, some time
workers in Culross or Kincardine ; and, if these be
deficient, to other decayed poor and aged widow-
women in the parish of Culross. They had a house
and garden for their accommodation, and 24 bolls of
meal for their support Robert Bill, M.D., who
was born at Culross, and died in London in 1738,
mortified the sum of £600 sterling; the interest to
be applied to the relief of 4 decayed tradesmen, and
2 decayed tradesmen's widows; the education and
putting to apprenticeship young persons of the bo-
rough of Culross ; and the maintenance of a bursar
at the university. The trustees are, the ministers,
magistrates, dean-of-guild, and schoolmaster.
Culross, a royal burgh in the above parish, 4
miles east of Kincardine, 6 west of Dunfermline,
and 22 west by north of Edinburgh, is a place of
considerable antiquity. It was erected into a royal
burgh by James VI. in 1588; and was governed by
3 bailies, a dean-of-guild, a treasurer, and 15 coun-
cillors ; and is now governed by a chief-magistrate
and 19 councillors. The revenue, in 1832, amounted
to £118 lis. 5Jd., chiefly arising from feu-duties
and shore-dues; the expenditure was £93 9s. I0|d.
Revenue, in 1838-9, £52 13s. About 80 acres of the
common, muir are feued to Sir James Gibson Craig,
and upwards of 500 to the Dundonald family. The
amount of cess annually raised is £7 5s. 2Jd. The
burgh joins with Dunfermline, Inverkeithing, South
Queensferry, and Stirling, in returning a member to
parliament. Parliamentary constituency, in 1839,
22. The town is built on the face of a brae ; the
principal street running north-east from the shore,
and the other buildings being irregularly, scattered
along the shore. It presents a pleasing appearance
from the sea ; but the houses, with a few exceptions,
are of a mean appearance, though some of them
appear to be of great antiquity. It formerly carried
on a great trade in salt and coal ; at present this
trade is wholly annihilated. At one period there
were above 50 salt-pans here, which made about
100 tons of salt weekly; and before the Union, there
have been 1 70 foreign vessels in the roads at a time,
loading coal and salt. About 60 years ago, the Earl
of Dundonald erected very extensive works here for
the extraction of tar, naphtha, and volatile salt, from
coal; but, being an unproductive concern, it was
given up, and the works are now in ruins. The
remains of an old pier are visible; but the harbour
would never have been a good one, and now a laud-
ing can only be effected here at high-water. The
fishing on the coast has been nearly destroyed by
the floating down of peat-moss. Culross, by virtue
of two royal grants from James IV. and Charles II.,
enjoyed the exclusive privilege of making girdles, a
kitchen utensil well-known in Scotland for baking
cakes ; but in 1727 the court of session found that
no monopolies of this kind could be granted in pre-
judice of any other royal borough, and before this
decision, and the more general use of ovens, besides
the cheaper mode of casting girdles, the manufacture
has long since ceased to be of any value.* The chief
occupation of the inhabitants now is the weaving of
linen for the Dunfermline manufacturers, and of
muslins for the Glasgow merchants. The popula-
tion of the burgh is about 700. — At the north end
of the town, on the Kincardine road, is the parish-
church, which was formerly the chapel of the mon-
astery. The chancel and tower are still entire, but
the transept and body of the church are in ruins.
Adjoining to the north wall of the church is an aisle,
the burial-place of the Bruce family, in which is a
fine white marble monument of Sir George Bruce,
his lady, and several children. In this aisle was
found enclosed in a silver box, the heart of Lord
Kinloss, who was killed in a duel in Flanders by
Sir Edward Sackville, as related in the Guardian,
No. 133 At a small distance to the eastward of
the church stands the Abbey-house, built by Ed-
ward, Lord Kinloss, in 1590, and so called, perhaps,
from its being built in the vicinity and of the mate-
rials of the ancient abbey. It is a very large build-
ing, in a delightful situation, and commanding an
extensive prospect of the frith of Forth, Stirling-
shire, and the Lothians. This house was nearly
demolished after it became the property of Sir Ro-
bert Preston, but was afterwards rebuilt by him.
— The abbey of Culross was founded in 1217, by
Malcolm, Thane of Fife, and dedicated to the Virgin
Mary and St. Serf. It lies at the head of the town,
on a rising ground commanding a beautiful and ex-
tensive prospect of the frith. Considerable remains
of it are yet to be seen. On the north side was the
• The burgh of Culross had the custody of the coal-measures
of Scotland, by act 166:1, Charles II. c. 17. The chalder was uf
two kinds : the great chalder, which contained, as near as can
he computed, 405 stone Dutch, and the small, which contained
162 stone, or two.fifths of the great chalder.
CUL
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CUL
Abbey church, which had a tower or steeple in the
middle, still entire, as is also a part of the church
now made use of — as already noticed — for the parish-
church. Grose has preserved a view of it. At the
Reformation, the rental of this abbey amounted to
£768 16s. 7d. Scotch, in money ; 3 chalders, 3 bolls
wheat; 14 chalders, 10 bolls, 2 firlots barley ; 13
chalders, 12 bolls, 3 firlots, 3h pecks oats; 1 chalder,
2 bolls salt; 10 wedders, 22 lambs, 7 dozen of
capons, 28h dozen poultry, "i stone of butter ; 79^
stones of cheese, and 8 trusses of straw. At that
time, there were nine monks of the Cistertian order
in the convent At the east end of the town, on the
sea-coast, the high road only intervening, are the re-
mains of a chapel called St. Mungo's chapel, of which
tradition relates, that it was erected on or near the
place where St. Mungo, or Kentigern, was born.
He is said to have been the son of Eugenius III.,
King of the Scots, by a daughter of Lothus, King
of the Picts. His mother Thametis finding herself
with child, in apprehension of her father's wrath',
stole privately away ; and, entering into a vessel
which she found on the nearest coast, was, by the
winds and waves, cast on land at the spot where the
town of Culross is now situated, and there was de-
livered of a son. Leaving the child with a nurse,
she returned home ; and his parents being unknown,
the boy was brought to St. Servanus, who baptized
and brought him up. This Servanus, or St. Serf,
lived at that time in an hermitage where the
monastery was afterwards built. After various
peregrinations, he departed this life at Culross, of
which town he became the tutelar saint ; and, in
honour of him, an annual feast was formerly solem- j
nized by the people here. This was attended with a
variety of ceremonies, particularly parading the
streets and environs of the town early in the morn-
ing, with large branches of birch and other trees,
accompanied with drums and different musical in-
struments, and adorning the cross, and another public
place called the Tron, with a profusion of flowers j
formed into different devices. The last abbot of
this place was Alexander, son of Sir James Colville I
of Ochiltree. Sir James, brother to the said Alex- |
ander, was raised to the dignity of Lord Colville of
Culross in 1604, at which time the king made him
a grant of this dissolved abbey.
CULSALMOND,*aparish in the county of Aber-
deen, about 3k miles in length, and 3 in breadth ;
bounded on the north by Forgue and Auchterless ;
on the east by Rayne ; on the south by Oyne ; and
on the west by Insch. The surface is level, with
the exception of Corsdow and Culsalmond, — two
small hills about the middle of the parish. The soil
is deep and fertile, especially on the banks of the
Urie, the only river in the parish. The only fuel is
peat and turf, of which there is great abundance.
There are some quarries of a fine blue slate within
this district. Newton-house is the principal resi-
dence in the parish. Population, in 1801, 730 ; in
1831, 1,138. Assessed property, in 1815, £2,242.
Houses, in 1831, 210.— This parish is in the presby-
tery of Garioch, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron,
Sir John Forbes, Bart. Stipend £166 2s. Id. ;
glebe £10. — Schoolmaster's salary £30, with share
of the Dick bequest, and £21 fees.
CULTER, a parish chiefly in the county of Lanark,
but partly in Peebles-shire ; about 8 miles in length,
and, on an average, 4 in breadth. It is bounded
on the north by Symington and Biggar parishes ; on
the east by Kilbucho and Glenholm parishes ; on tbe
* Pronounced Cuhamon. Huddlestone, in his erudite notes
on ' Tnland's History of the Druids,' [Edit. 1814. p. 27(i.] says
this name "is merely a corruption of the Gaelic CiU-saman,
and signifies ' the 'temple of the Sun.'"
south by Crawford ; and on the west by Crawford,
Lamington, and Symington parishes. The Clyde
skirts the north-western boundary of the parish.
Along its banks a fine fertile plain extends for 2
miles to the foot of the hills which occupy the
southern part of the parish, and rise into high moun-
tains, the loftiest of which is Culterfell, or The Fell,
having an altitude of 2,430 feet.j Culter water, a
tributary of the Clyde, flows through the whole
length of the parish from south to north. The hilly
district is partly covered with a rich verdure well-
adapted for sheep-pasture, and partly by a forest of
natural wood. There are the remains of several
circular encampments, and of an artificial mound of
earth on the banks of the Clyde. Ironstone of ex-
cellent quality abounds here ; and most of the springs
are impregnated with that mineral. Population, in
1801, 369; in 1831, 497. Assessed property, in
1815, £2,769. Houses, in 1831, 97.— This parish,
formerly a rectory, is in the presbytery of Biggar,
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patrons,
Baillie of Lamington, and Dickson of Kilbucho.
Stipend £217 3s. 9d. ; glebe £30 12s School-
master's salary £34, with £20 fees.
CULTER (The), a stream in Aberdeenshire,
which takes its rise from a lake in the parish of
Skene, and, after receiving several smaller streams,
falls into the Dee, about 6 miles above Aberdeen,
near the church of Peterculter.
CULTER. See Petercdlter.
CULTS, a parish in the centre of the county of
Fife; in ancient writings called Quilts or Quilques;
extending in length about 2t, and in breadth 1J
miles ; bounded on the north-west by the Eden,
which divides it from Collessie and Monimail ; on
the east by Cupar and Ceres ; and on the south and
west by Kettle. Its general surface is flat, declining
from the south — where there are a few hills — to the
Eden. The eastern part is well wooded. The soil
is light, and in some places — particularly on the banks
of the Eden — gravelly ; but towards the south it is a
strong clay. The superficial area is about 2,100 Scots
acres, of which about 1,800 are under cultivation. A
number of hands are here employed in weaving coarse
linens. There are numerous freestone and limestone
quarries of excellent quality ; there is also plenty of
coal. There are remains of a Roman encampment
upon Walton hill in this district. The celebrated
Sir David Wilkie, the painter, was a native of this
parish, of which his father was minister. Population,
in 1801, 699; in 1831, 903. Houses 174. Assessed
property £3,567. — This parish, formerly a vicarage,
is in the presbytery of Cupar, and synod of Fife.
Patron, the United College of St. Andrews. Stipend
£162 5s. 7d. ; glebe £11. Church built in 1793;
sittings 490 There is a Secession church at the
village of Pitlessie, which contains above 500 inha-
bitants. See Pitlessie Schoolmaster's salary £34
4s. 4d., with £25 fees. There are 2 private schools.
Besides the village of Pitlessie, there are the hamlets
of Crossgates, Walton, Cults mill, and Hospital mill
in this parish. Near the north-east extremity of the
parish, on the site of an old house, Lady Mary
Lindsay Crawford, sister and heiress of George, 20th
Earl of Crawford, erected a splendid mansion in 1813,
called Crawford castle and priory. The Fifeshire
property of this family was obtained from the Keiths,
in exchange for Dunottar castle, in the 14th century,
by Sir William of the Byres, younger brother of the
ancestor of the first fourteen Earls of Crawford, of
whom the Earl of Balcarres, chief of the name, is
heir-male and representative. Lady Mary died in
f The height of Culterfell in stated at 1,700 feet according to
some authorities ; at 2.440 feet according to Playfair ; and
2,330 feet according to others.
CUM
282
CUM
November, 1833. She was the last of a direct line
which for nearly five centuries had nourished in Fife-
shire, and whose deeds, for good or for evil, have
been enrolled on many pages of the chronicles of
Scotland. Her remains repose in a mausoleum on
Walton hill, where also rest the ashes of her brother.
The Earldom of Lindsay will belong to the person
who can prove himself heir-male-general of George,
the last Earl. The Earldom of Crawford is claimed
by the Earl of Balcarres.
CUMBERNAULD, a parish in the county of
Dumbarton, though locally in that of Lanark ; ex-
tending about 7 miles in length, and 4 in breadth ;
bounded on the north by Stirlingshire ; on the east
by Stirling and Lanark shires ; on the south by Lan-
arkshire ; and on the west by Kirkintilloch parish.
Area 17,260 English acres. The surface is beauti-
fully diversified with small hills and fertile dales.
The highest part is called Fannyside moor, producing
nothing but heath and furze. On the south east side
of this moor are two lochlets, each about a mile long,
and one quarter of a mile broad. The remainder
of the parish is mostly arable, with a deep clay soil,
and tolerably fertile. Lime, coal, and freestone,
abound. Considerable remains of Antoninus's wall
are to be seen here, on the northern skirts of the
parish, nearly in the course of the Great canal
which connects the Clyde and the Forth The
village and burgh-of-barony of Cumbernauld is 13
miles east of Glasgow; 9 west of Falkirk; and 13
south of Stirling. It is pleasantly situated in a
valley almost surrounded with the pleasure-grounds
of Cumbernauld-house, the estate of Lord Elphin-
stone. The new road from Glasgow to Falkirk
passes close to the village, near which is built a
large and commodious inn. The inhabitants are
chiefly employed in weaving for the Glasgow manu-
facturers. It has an annual fair on the 2d Thurs-
day in May. Population of the parish and village
in 1801, 1,795; in 1831, 3,080. Houses in 1801,
393. Assessed property, in 1815, £6,144 This
parish, formerly a vicarage, and which, prior to 1649,
formed part of Kirkintilloch, is in the presbytery of
Glasgow and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron,
Lord Elphinstone. Stipend £264 3s. 2d. ; glebe
£17 10s. Unappropriated teinds £694 lis. lOd.
Church repaired in 1810 ; sittings 660 There is
an original Burgher congregation. Chapel built in
1743; rebuilt, in 1825, at the cost of about £1,000;
sittings 576. Stipend £100, with manse and garden.
— There is also a United Secession church, which
was early established here. Stipend £70, with
manse and garden An extension church and quoad
sacra parish have recently been formed here
Schoolmaster's salary £25, with £26 fees. There is
a school at the village of Condorat, and another at
Garbethill.. — Professor Low, in his ' Illustrations of
the Breeds of the Domestic Animals of the British
Islands,' [London: 1840. fol.] says, "John Les-
lie, bishop of Ross, who wrote in 1598, states
that the wild ox. — Bos sylveslris — was found in
the woods of Scotland ; that it was of a white co-
lour, had a thick mane resembling a lion's, that it
was wild and savage, and, when irritated, rushed
\ipon the hunters, overthrew the horses, and dis-
persed the attacks of the fiercest dogs. He says that
it had formerly abounded in the Sylva Caledonia, but
was then only to be found at Stirling, Cumbernauld,
and Kincardine. Hector Bruce, in his History and
Chromcles of Scotland, bears testimony to the like
effect : — ' At this toun — namely Stirling — began the
gret wod of Caledon. This wod of Caledon ran fra
Striveling throw Menteith and Stratherne to Atholl
and Lochquabir, as Ptolome writtis in his first table.
In this wod wes sum time quhit bullis, with crisp
and curland mane, like feirs lionis, and thoucht thay
semit meek and tame in the remanent figure of thair
bodyis thay wer mair wild than ony uthir beiztis,
and had sich hatrent aganis the societe and cumpany
of men, that they come nevir in the wodis nor lesuris
quhair thay fand ony feit or haind thairof, and moy
dayis eftir, thay eit nocht of the herbis that wer
twichit or handiUitt be men. Their bullis were sa
wild that thay wer nevir tane but slight and crafty
laubour, and sa impacient that, eftir thair taking,
thay deit for importable doloure. Als sone as ony
man invadit thir bullis, thay ruschit with so terrible
preis on him, that thay dang him to the eord, takand
ha feir of houndis, scharp lancis, nor uthir maist
penitrive wapintris. And thoucht thir bullis wer
bred in sindry boundis of the Caledon wod, now, be
continewal hunting and lust of insolent men, thay
ar destroyit in all party of Scotland and nane of
tliaim left bot allanerlie in Cumarnald.' " Here,
however, they were also subjected to persecution;
and "in a remarkable document written in 1570-71,
the writer, describing the aggressions of the king's
party, complains of the destruction of the deer in the
forest of Cumbernauld, ' and the quhit ky and bullis
of the saidforrest, to thegryt destructione of polecie,
and hinder of the commonweil. For that kynd of
ky and bullis hes bein keipit thir money zeiris in
the said forest ; and the like was not mantenit in
ony uther partis of the He of Albion.' " Mr. Low
then adduces various arguments to prove, that nei-
ther as respects their white colour, nor their pecu-
liar habits, are these wild cattle to be regarded as a
species distinct from the domesticated oxen.
CUMBRAYS* (The), two islets in the frith of
Clyde, distinguished as the Greater and the Less,
or the Big and the Little Cumbray. They belong
to the county of Bute, and lie between the island of
Bute and the coast of Ayrshire. The Greater or
Big Cumbray is 4 miles east of the south-east part
of Bute, and 2 miles west of Largs in Ayrshire.
The Little Cumbray lies to the south of it, being
separated from it by a channel of about three-quar-
ters of a mile in breadth. The two Cumbrays are
a link in the geological chain which connects Bute
with the adjoining mainland.
The larger of the two Cumbrays corresponds in geo-
logical structure with the middle — old red sandstone
— district of Bute, and is chiefly interesting, in a
scientific point of view, from the enormous trap-
dykes with which it is traversed. The New Statis-
tical Account mentions that the more remarkable of
these " are two on the east side of the island, run-
ning nearly parallel, and from five to six hundred
yards distant from each other. The one to the
north-east measures upwards of 40 feet in height,
nearly 100 in length, and in mean thickness from
ten to twelve feet. The one to the southward is
upwards of 200 feet in length, from 12 to 15 in
thickness, and from 70 to 80 feet in height; and
when viewed in a certain direction, exhibits the dis-
tant resemblance of a lion couching, hence it is some-
times called The Lion." These dykes are of a
highly crystalline structure, and have withstood the
effects of the atmosphere and of the sea; whilst the
red sandstone on both sides of the dyke, being more
easily decomposed, has been wasted away. The local
name of these dykes is Rippel walls. They re-appear
in Ayrshire, and traverse that and the whole of the
neighbouring county of Galloway. The zoology
and botany of this small island are abundant and
interesting. It is 3£ miles in length from north-east
to south-west, and about 2 miles in breadth. Super-
* The name Cumbray, Cambray, Chnbray, or Cimbracs, is said
to be derived from the Gaelic, aud to imply ' a Place of shelter,'
or ' refuge.'
CUM
283
CUM
ficial area 5,100 square acres, of which about 150
are under wood, and about 3,000 are arable. As-
sessed property, in 1815, £1,569. Valued rent,
£1,087 8s. 2d. Scots. It is intersected by a range
of hills called the Sheughends, or Shoughends,
which run from north to south, and attain near
the centre of the island a height of nearly 450 feet.
There are two lochlets near this highest point,
from which a small stream issues. About two-thirds
of the island are the property of the Earl of Glas-
gow; the other third belongs to the Marquess of
Bute. The population, in 1750, was 200; in 1801,
506; in 1831, 912; in 1839, according to the New
Statistical Account, 1,075, of whom 932 resided in
the thriving village of Millport : which see. The
number of houses on the island, in 1831, was 134;
and in 1839, 169.— This island, with that of the
Little Cumbray, forms a distinct parish in the pres-
bytery of Greenock, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr.
Patron, the Earl of Glasgow. Stipend £159 4s. 8d. ;
glebe £8 10s. The old church, built in 1612, was re-
built in 1802, at Kirktown, a place about haif-a-mile
distant from Millport. In 1837, a new and handsome
parish-church was erected at Millport It would
appear from the following curious extract from the
minutes of the Privy-council of Scotland, that this
island was at one time famous for its breed of hawks :
" February 2d, 1609,— Sir William Stewart, capt.
of Dumbartane castle, complains ' That Robert Hun-
tar of Huntarston, and Thomas Boyd, provest of
Irwjm, had goile to the Isle of Comra, with convo-
cation of the leidges, and tane away all the hawks
thereon.' The lords of secret council declare, 'That
all the banks quhilk bred on ye said ile do propirly
belong to the king, and ocht to be furth cumand to
his majeste, and that the capitane of Dumbartane
castle intromet tharewith yeirlie, and deliver the
same to his majeste, and discharges the said Robert
Huntar, and all vtheris, from middling tharewith.' "
— About the beginning of last century, according to
the tradition of the island, there was a family of the
name of Montgomery, who then possessed the greater
part of the land now belonging to Lord Glasgow,
and had a mansion-house at Bilhkellet. Among the
last of this family was Dame Margaret Montgomery,
joint-patroness of the kirk, who, being on horseback
at the green of the Largs, is said to have been
thrown-off amidst a crowd of people ; but, being a
woman of high spirit, she pursued the horse, and
received a stroke of his foot, which proved instantly
fatal. '; The arms of this family ". — it is stated in
the Old Statistical Account — "are upon the end of
the kirk, and were lately to be seen on a part of the
ruins of Bilhkellet. About a quarter of a mile from
Billikellet, there is a large stone set up on end :
about 6 feet of it is above the ground. It appears
to have been the rude monument of some ancient
hero. There is also a place which the inhabitants
point out as having been a Danish camp, though no
vestiges of it now remain."
The Lesser Cumbray is about a mile in length,
and half-a-mile in breadth; and is separated from
the mainland of Ayrshire by a sound of about 3 miles
in breadth. It lies, like the larger island, in the
parallel direction to Bute, from south-west to north-
east. The strata of the rock of which it is com-
posed are distinctly marked by nature. When
viewed at a distance, they seem to lie nearly hori-
zontal ; but, upon a nearer approach, they appear to
incline to an angle of some elevation. They begin
from the water's edge, receding backwards from, and
rising one above another to the height of 650 feet, like
the steps of stairs. Upon the south side are a few
dwelling-houses, and an old square tower, which is
situated directly opposite to another of the same
kind upon the mainland. Concerning the antiquity
of this castle, nothing can no w be learned ; and no
date or inscription, from which it might be ascer-
tained, has ever been discovered. It seems to have
been a place of some strength, and is surrounded by
a rampart and a fosse, over which there has been a
drawbridge : it was surprised and burned by the
troops of Oliver Cromwell. The island was then
in the possession of the family of Eglinton, in which
it has continued ever since. There are still the
ruins of a very ancient chapel here, which is said to
have been dedicated to St. Vey, who lies interred
near it: and which was probably a dependency ol
the celebrated monastery of Icolmkill Upon the
highest part of this island, a lighthouse was erected,
about the year 1 750, which proved of great benefit
to the trade; but, from its too lofty situation, it
was often so involved in clouds as not to be per-
ceptible, or but seen very dimly. The commission-
ers therefore judged it necessary to erect another, in
1757, upon a lower station, with a reflecting lamp,
which is not liable to the inconvenience attending
the former, and affords a more certain direction to
vessels navigating the frith in the night time. This
lighthouse is in N. lat. 55° 43', and W. long. 4° 55'.
The height of the building is 28 feet, and of the
lantern 106 feet above high water. It shows a
fixed light, to the distance of 15 miles in clear wea-
ther The population of this island, in 1831, was 17.
CUMBRIA, an ancient British principality which
existed till the beginning of the 10th century, and
comprehended Strathclyde, the province of Gallo-
way, Kyle, Carrick, and Cunningham, besides the
large archbishopric of Glasgow, which extended
through the greater part of Cumberland. It was at
last partly subdued by the English, who, in order to
attach the Scottish king to their interest, made a pre-
sent of it to Malcolm, prince of Scotland, to be held
as a fief depending on the crown of England, and in
975 the Scots subdued the remaining parts of this
province. The name of the people is still preserved
not only in Cumberland, but in the islands of Cum-
brays and in many places of Clydesdale.
CUMINESTOWN, a village in Aberdeenshire,
in Monquhitter parish, founded in 1760 by Cumine
of Auchry, and containing about 600 inhabitants.
There is a small Scotch Episcopal congregation here.
Stipend £53 10s.
CUMMERTREES,* a parish in the district of An-
nandale, Dumfries-shire, situated on the coast, at
nearly equal distances from the mouths of the Kith
and the Sark. It is bounded on the north by St.
Mungo and Hoddam ; on the east by the parish of
Annan ; on the south by the Solway frith ; and on
the west by Ruthwell and Dalton. With the excep-
tion of two considerable protuberances on the east,
and three or four inconsiderable ones on the west, it has
nearly the form of a regular parallelogram : its length
being from north to south, and its breadth from east
to west. It measures diagonally about 5^ or nearly 6
miles, lengthways 5 miles, and at one point, from
Flosh on the west to an angle eastward of Spittle-
ridding-hill, 4± miles in breadth. Its area contains
upwards of 8,000 Scotch acres. Its surface is, for
the most part, nearly flat, rising with a slight in-
* Chalmers, in his Caledonia, derives the name from three
I British words, Cutruber-tres, which signify 'the Hamlet at
the short alley.1 The name probably referred to a village now
extinct ; but still, as to its vestiges, remembered by some of the
older inhabitants, aud situated at the end of a short valley
formed by the converging streams of one of the local rills
and the Pow. " From the name of the parish," too, says the
writer in Sir John Sinclair's Statistical Account, "there is
little doubt of it [the parish] having been formerly covered
with timber. Considerable tracts ot natural wood still remain,
besides the Bubterannean forests of oak, fir, and birch, with
which the mosses are everywhere replenished."
284
CUMMERTREES.
clination from the Solway towards the north. The
highest elevation is a hill, on which stands the Tower
of Repentance, ahout § of a mile from its northern
boundary, and scarcely 200 feet above sea-level.
From this hill, the ground slopes rapidly toward the
river Annan, by which the northern boundary of the
parish is traced. The soil, towards the north, is a
loam above freestone ; in some of the central parts,
is a loam above limestone, remarkably rich and fer-
tile ; along the coast, is sandy ; in many parts, is a
thin wet clay overliard till, requiring much manuring
and cultivation ; and in some is an improved and
meadowy bog, formerly flowmoss, but recently re-
claimed at great expense and with much labour. Its
coast-line is flat, and uninteresting, and indented
only with a small bay called Queensberry, in which
vessels of light burden can take shelter from north
and north-west winds. Into this bay, overlooked
by the small village and sea-bathing quarters of
Queensberry, and situated a little to the eastward
of the middle of the southern boundary line, and
about 3 miles westward of the embouchure of the
river Annan, a small stream, called the Pow [see
Pow], or the Cummertrees Pow, debouches, after
traversing the parish south-eastward from Flosh.
Over a distance of 2^ miles, the Annan washes
the limits of the parish, dividing them from those
of St. Mungo and Hoddam, and here produces sal-
mon, salmon-trouts, and a species of small fish
called hirlings. The last of these are about the
size of good burn-trout, are of two kinds, red and
white, are sometimes caught in large quantities, and
are believed to be peculiar to the rivers which dis-
charge themselves into the Solway frith. Three rills
rise in the parish, two of them running southward
into the Pow, and the third flowing south-eastward
into a small lake of about J of a mile in circumfer-
ence, which is situated on the eastern boundary.
The Solway frith suddenly widens, on the Cumber-
land side, opposite the south-east angle of Cummer-
trees, and becomes 7 miles broad ; but, at low water,
or during the hours of its recess, [see Solway
Frith,] forms one Sahara-like waste of level and
naked sand, intersected by forking branches — known
as the Scotch and the English channels — of the united
streams of the Annan, the Sark, the Esk, and the
Eden. Here the Solway tide rolls impetuously for-
ward with its celebrated breast or wall of waters, —
tumbling headlong at the speed of 8 or 10 miles in the
hour, — hoarsely roaring with a voice which is heard
over all the parish, and, at times, 12 or 15 miles
farther to the north, — and whirling aloft a warlike
banner of spray which glitters and undulates in the
breeze to announce the march of the careering and
invincible invasion of waters. But the Solway is
enriching to the inhabitants, both by its raising the
temperature higher than in the parishes inland, and
by its furnishing large supplies of flounders and cod,
and occasional takes of soles andturbot. A mineral
springnear Cummertrees-mill, at the north-west angle
of the parish, is sometimes, for its medicinal proper-
ties, recommended by physicians. Nearly 1,300 acres
of the parish, or about one-fifth of its area, is
covered with plantation. The climate, though hu-
mid and changeable, is remarkably salubrious, and
seems to have the property of nearly exempting the
population from epidemics. Limestone is abundant,
about 30 feet in thickness, and is so unusually rich
as to yield 96 per cent, of carbonate of lime. Sand-
stone also is plentiful : in the southern district, it is
soft, and lies under sand, gravel, or moss, — but, in
the northern, it occasionally looks out from the sur-
face, and is nearly as hard as some primitive rocks.
The proprietor of five-sixths of the soil is the Mar-
quis of Queensberry, who possesses here a beautiful
seat, called Kinmount-house, built at the expense ot
£40,000 There are three small villages or hamlets,
Cummertrees, Queensberry, and Kilhead. The first
of these is one of the most beautiful in Dumfries-shire.
The parish is, at its middle, intersected, from north-
west to south-east, by the great line of road from
Dumfries to Carlisle; from west to east, near the
shore, by the south road from Dumfries to Annan ;
from north to south, through its middle, by a line
of road from Cummertrees-mill to Powfoot or the
village of Queensberry ; and transversely, in various
directions, by no fewer than 5 or 6 connecting lines
of road. — Hoddam castle, situated nearly half-way
between the river Annan and the Tower of Repent-
ance, was built in the 15th century by Lord Herries,
from the stones of an ancient chapel ; and stands on
a site commanding one of the most beautiful views
in Annandale. It is remarkable chiefly for its thick-
ness of wall, and consequent strength ; and, greatly
improved with repairs and with additional buildings,
is maintained in as comely a state as any edifice of
its class in Scotland. The old castle is said to
have been inhabited about the beginning of the 14th
century by a branch of the family of Robert Bruce,
and to have been demolished some time after by a
border-law. The family of Herries was very power-
ful, and possessed a vast extent of country. About
the year 1627, the barony of Hoddam was acquired
from the last Lord Herries, by Sir Richard Murray,
of Cockpool ; which family being afterwards created
Earls of Annandale, the estate stood 'vested in John,
Earl of Annandale, in 1637. By the Earl of Annan-
dale the estate was conveyed to David, Earl of
Southesk, about the year 1653; and, in 1690, Charles,
Earl of Southesk, sold the barony and castle to John
Sharpe, Esq., in whose family it has continued ever
since. Grose has preserved two views of this castle.
In the walls about it are divers Roman altars and
inscriptions which were discovered at the station at
Birrens, in the parish of Middlebie. On the hill for-
merly mentioned, and south of Hoddam castle, stands
the erection — remarkable alike in name, in structure,
and in situation — called the Tower of Repentance.
This building is square, 2.5 feet high, extraordinarily
thick in its walls, and commands a view, on all sides,
over a distance of at least 30 miles. On its top is an
arena where, evidently, watch-fires formerly burned,
announcing to the inhabitants of the far-stretching
plain which it overlooks any menacing movements
which, previous to the union of the crowns of Scot-
land and England, occurred on the English side of
the border. Various traditions are afloat respecting
the origin of its name, and the motives for erecting
it ; the chief of which is, that Lord Herries, return-
ing from a murderous foray in Cumberland, and, after
having massacred a numerous body of prisoners, and
thrown them into the sea, built it, to appease his
conscience, and conciliate his diocesan superior, the
bishop of Glasgow. — On the farm of Hurkledale, in
this parish, there was discovered, in 1833, a number
of ancient silver coins, much decayed, but supposed
to be of Alexander III. of Scotland, and Edward I. of
England. — Population of the parish, in 1801, 1,633;
in 1831, 1,407. Houses 238. Assessed property,
in 1815, .£7,459.. — Cummertrees is in the presby-
tery of Annan, and synod of Dumfries. Patron, the
Crown. In its present form, it comprehends, in
addition to the original parish, the chaplainry of
Trailtrow, which was annexed to it in 1609. The
parochial church is one of those which Robert de
Bruce, in the 12th century, when, in an age of super-
stitious liberality and popish ostentation, he wished
to display his munificence, conferred on the monks
of Giseburn; and after, upon the abolition of epis-
copacy, it ceased to be controlled by the bishop of
CUMNOCK.
285
Glasgow, it reverted, as to its patronage, to the
Crown. The chapel of Trailtrow stood upon the
eminence which is now surmounted by Repentance
tower; and is commemorated by a burying-ground,
still in use, within which the tower is situated.
Minister's stipend £158 6s. 7d. ; glebe £18. There
are two parochial schools, and one nonparochial.
Salary of the first parochial schoolmaster £30, with
£27 other emoluments; of the second £8 lis., with
school-fees amounting to about £15.
CUMNOCK," (Old Cumnock,) a parish in the
eastern section of the district of Kyle in Ayrshire.
It is bounded on the north by Auchinleck and Muir-
kirk ; on the east by Dumfries-shire ; on the south
by New Cumnock; and on the west by Ochiltree
and Auchinleck. It is of an oblong figure, and about
10 miles in extreme length, by about 2 in aver-
age breadth: stretching, as to its length, from east
to west. The surface is in part flat, and in part
hilly. The soil in general is clay upon a strong till ;
but in some places is bog, and in the holms is a light
and dry mixture of sand and gravel. The river
Lugar intersects the parish from east to west, drink-
ing up several rivulets in its course, and eventually
emptying itself, near Barskimming, into Ayr water;
and it abounds in trout, and furnishes an occasional
banquet of eels. On the southern confines of the
parish are three lakes which jointly have an area of
about 100 acres, and which, though communicating
with one another, discharge their waters south-east-
ward, though the rivulet Aith into the Nith, and
north-westward, through another rivulet, into the
Lugar. The uplands — hilly but not mountainous,
though partly covered with heath — are in general
verdant, abound in a coarse grass called sprit, and
exhibit some volcanic appearances intermixed with
basalt. In the beds of the rivulets, petrifactions of
shells and fish are thrown up from the strata. In
an extensive lime-quarry belonging to the Marquis
of Bute, are beds abounding with a species of coral.
The limestone in this quarry is, in some places,
mixed with shells and spar, takes a beautiful polish,
and is capable of being dressed into a pleasing bluish
marble. A vein of lead-ore likewise runs through
it, and was found, on trial at the lead-mines of
Wanlockhead, to yield 65 pounds per cwt. Free-
stone abounds, is of easy access, and has contributed
largely to the walls of neat and comfortable dwell-
ings. Coal is supposed, with a covering or crumb-
cloth of strata, to carpet the parish; but has been
worked chiefly in subordination to the burning of
lime. Very recently a bed of what is called black
ironstone, 2i feet thick, has been discovered here.
Hugh Logan, Esq., ' the Laird of Logan,' and cele-
brated wit of Ayrshire, was a native of this parish.
Here also, within the precincts of the burying-
ground, are the remains of the famous Alexander
Peden, of covenanting, and, as the vulgar say, of
prophesying memory, — remains which were originally
interred in the aisle of Lord Auchinleck, — which, after
forty days, were exhumed by a body of dragoons,
who intended to hang them up on a gallows, — and
which, in yieldance with the entreaties of the Countess
of Dumfries and other influential personages, were
eventually allowed to rest along with the remains of
other martyrs, at the Gallowsfoot of Cumnock.
Around the dust of Peden, as well as on the estate
of Logan, and on the moor which forms the south-
* " The name of Cumnock," says the author of * Caledonia,'
*' is derived from the British cym,& hollow or valley, aud cnoc,
a hill, which was usually pronounced ' Cumnock.' The British
cym, in the prefix of the name, applies exactly to the hollow
or valley in which the church and village of Old Cumnock
stand, on the hank of Glaenock rivulet, which falls into Lugar
■vater ; but whether the cnoc, in the termination of the name,
applies to the small hill at the village, or to some other hill in
the vicinity, is not quite certain."
west boundary of the parish, is the dust of martyrs,
who, in popular phrase, sacrificed themselves to the
covenant of Scotland, but who may be allowed to
have surrendered their lives in the cause of heaven.
The principal proprietor is the Marquis of Bute and
Earl of Dumfries, who acquires from the parish his
title of Baron. Dumfries-house, the seat of the
Marquis, is situated in the north-west pa. < of the
parish, near the banks of the Lugar, and is sur-
rounded with a fine demesne which, extending on
both sides of the river, is connected by an elegant
new bridge at the most accessible point from the
mansion. The other mansions in the parish are
Garallan, Logan, and Glasnock, the last of which,
situated on the stream whence it derives its name
is a recent and elegant edifice, built of white free,
stone. Within the demesne of Dumfries-house stand
the ruins of Terringzoan castle, whence the present
Countess of Dumfries — Countess in her own right,
though Marchioness of Bute by matrimonial alliance —
still derives the title of Baroness. Some traces, in
the southern division of the parish, exist of an old
keep called Boreland castle, and also of a Catholic
chapel, which gives to the farm on which it stands
the name of Chapel-house. This parish is traversed,
south-eastward, by the great line of road from Glas-
gow to Dumfries, and, in various directions, by minor
fines ; and it boasts no fewer than 1 6 bridges. Popu-
lation, in 1801, 1,991 ; in 1831, 2,763. Houses 454.
Assessed property, in 1815, £7,287 The parish
is in the presbytery of Ayr, and synod of Glasgow
and Ayr. Patron, the Marquis of Bute. Stipend
£218 0s. 7d. ; glebe £20 There are 3 schools, one
parochial and 2 nonparochial. Salary of the parish
schoolmaster £34 4s. 4jd., with £45 other emolu-
ments. The parish-church, built in 1754, and situ-
ated in the village, at a distance of 5| miles from
the most remote limit of the parish, has from 600 to
700 sittings. A United Secession meeting-house,
also situated in the village, has 900 sittings. More
than one-third of the parishioners are dissenters.
Cumnock was dislocated, early last century, into its
present form, and that of the parish of New Cum-
nock. Originally it was a rectory ; but in the 15th
century it became a prebend of the cathedral of
Glasgow, and afterwards a vicarage.
Cumnock, a village in the parish just described,
situated in a deep sheltered hollow, at the confluence
of the Lugar and the GHsnock, 10i miles south-west
of Muirkirk, 6£ south-east of Mauchlin, and 16 east
of Ayr, on the main road from Glasgow to Dumfries.
It was, in the year 1509, made a burgh-of-barony by
James IV., and consists principally of a sort of square,
or rather triangle, which occupies the area of what
was anciently the burying-ground. A remarkable
circumstance is that, situated in a sort of mimic
basin, it can, from any point of the compass, be
entered only by a declivity. Its subsistence is weav-
ing, which, when trade is good, keeps 120 looms at
work ; hand-sewing, which is a common employment
with both adult and young females; the manufacture
of thrashing-mills, which are in high esteem through-
out the west of Scotland, and are, in considerable
numbers, exported to Ireland; a pottery, which,
from clay of the best quality found in the parish, pro-
duces a superior brown- ware ; and the manufacture
of wooden snuff-boxes, which, throughout Scotland,
have, for their inimitable beauty, rendered — among
snuff-takers, at least— the village surpassingly cele-
brious. In the last of these sources of support, Cum-
nock is competed with only by Laurencekirk and
Montrose. An ingenious mechanician of the name
of Crawford, seized — from a box which had been
made at Laurencekirk, and which was sent to him
to be repaired — the first idea of the celebrious Cum-
CUM
286
CUN
nock manufacture. Improving upon the pattern
which was produced by previous inventors, he, or
his successors, contrived to execute so delicately the
hinge of the snuff-box, as to make the name of Cum-
nock essential to the vest-pocket's storehouse of most.
in Scotland who are politely "led by the nose." " A
few years ago," says a writer in the New Statisti-
cal Account of Scotland, " a solid foot of wood, that
cost only 3s., could be manufactured into boxes worth
±100 sterling, and then the workmanship increased
the original value of the wood nearly 700 times ; but
at present a solid foot of wood, will only yield, in
finished boxes, about ±9 sterling." The great fall-
ing-off is to be accounted for chiefly by the satiating
of the passion for novelty, — snuff- takers being as
curious in the recherche of their box, as antiquarians
are in the high date and freshness of their discoveries;
and, in a degree, by the sharpness of competition
tram the quarters whence the idea of the ' Cumnock
snuff-box' was originally obtained. In addition to
the area already mentioned, Cumnock consists of
very narrow lanes ; and, on the whole, it is irre-
gularly built. Yet it occupies a picturesque site, is
clean and healthful, overlooks some beautiful wood-
lands in the parish, is romantically interspersed with
fine old trees, and altogether presents a picture on
which the eye of the traveller may delight to rest.
The village contains good shops in all departments,
a gas- work, and branch-offices of two banking com-
panies ; and, owing to its advantageous position in
relation to the surrounding country, transacts much
retail business. Of the 16 bridges in the parish, 3
are in the village. Four annual fairs are held here,
respectively in February, in May, in July, and in
October, O.S. Here, also, are 2 public libraries, 3
friendly societies, and a savings-bank. Population
of the village in 1801, apart from the parish, 1,798.
CUMNOCK (New), a parish, in the district of
Kyle, forming the south-eastern limb of Ayrshire.
It is bounded on the north by Auchinleck, Old
Cumnock, and Ochiltree ; on the east by Dumfries-
shire ; on the south by Galloway ; and on the west
by Dalmellington. It has an outline of very nearly
an oblong square ; is 12 miles in length from east
to west, somewhat more than 8 in breadth, and con-
tains an area of upwards of 100 square miles, or about
30,000 acres. Its surface is dotted with hills, and,
in its southern division, is warted with mountains.
Its highest elevations are Black-craig, about 4 a mile
from its eastern boundary, rising 1,600 feet above
the valley of Nith, and Black-Larg-hill, on its south-
ern boundary, which rises 2,890 feet above sea-level;
but these elevations are excelled in interest by the
Knipe, to the south, 1,200, and especially by the
Corsancone, 872, which, owing to its position, com-
mands a beautiful and extensive view. Indeed the
whole southern division of the parish is lifted up-
wards by elevations, Craigdarroch, Saddlehagg,
Coptaw-Cairn, Benly-Cowan-hill, Chang-hill, High-
Chang-hill, Enoch-hill, Blackstone-hill, Craig-hill,
and several other heights. The lowest ground is
the valley of the Nith, — a river which, rising in the
south-west extremity of the parish, intersects it
from west to east, flows here about 500 feet above
sea-level, and, on leaving the parish to irrigate Dum-
fries-shire, begins to form, in that county, the dis-
trict of Nithsdale. The Nith is here shallow and
sluggish, highly tinctured with moss, and about 15
feet broad. Flowing northwards, of local origin,
and falling into the Nith, the small stream called the
Afton, forms a beautiful valley, and is overlooked
by richly sylvan banks. There are, on the northern
confines of the parish, 3 small lakes, averaging about
£ a mile in circumference ; but abounding in perch,
pike, and water-fowl. Carboniferous limestone oc-
curs in abundance, lies in beds 12 feet thick, and is
wrought, at Benstone, Mansfield, and Polquhortor.
Improved limekilns have been erected by the enter-
prising and judicious Monteith of Closeburn, Dum-
fries-shire. Freestone, for the most part of a dingy
white colour, and coarse in the grain, is plenteous.
Ironstone is found in bands and balls, but has never
been wrought. Alternate seams of smith's coal and
cannel coal appear to pavement the eastern district,
and are in considerable request ; the former for mak-
ing gas in Dumfries and Catrine, and the latter, for
less chemical purposes, in Ayr, Kilmarnock, and
other places. Plumbago, or black-lead, is found in
the coal-formation, and has, for a considerable period,
been wrought. It is, however, of very inferior quality
to that of Borrodale in Cumberland. There are, in
the parish, 3 villages, or hamlets, Path-head, Afton-
Bridge-end, and New Cumnock ; which had, in 1831,
a population, — the first, 361; the second, 242; and
the third, 161. Two great roads traverse the district,
both through New Cumnock, the one from north
to south, along the valley of the Afton ; and the
other, the great road from Glasgow to Dumfries, a
short way due south, and then from east to west,
making an extraordinary debouche in consequence of
the hilly configuration of the surface. Population, in
1801, 1,381 ; in 1831, 2,184. Houses, 454. As-
sessed property, in 1815, £8,538 New Cumnock
is in the presbytery of Ayr, and synod of Glasgow
and Ayr. Patron, the Marquis of Bute. Stipend,
±'194 lis. 8d. ; glebe, £24. This parish was origi-
nally a section of that of Cumnock, or Old Cumnock,
and shared in its ecclesiastical history. Its present
church is of recent structure, and accommodates
1,000 sitters Connected with the Reformed Pres-
byterians, there are here about 120 individuals,
who have a local place of worship. There are also
nearly 200 members or hearers of the United Seces-
sion, who attend their place of worship in the village
of Old Cumnock Schoolmaster's salary, ±'32, with
school-fees of from 2s. to 3s. per quarter, and other
emoluments, £4 10s. There are 2 schools non-
parochial.
CUNNINGHAM, the northern district of Ayr-
shire ; bounded on the east by Renfrewshire ; on the
north and west by the frith of Clyde ; and, on the
south, separated from Kyle by the river Irvine. Its
length from north to south may be about 18 miles ;
its breadth from east to west 12 miles. It includes
the following parishes : — Ardrossan, Beith, Dairy,
Dreghorn, part of Dunlop, Fenwick, Irvine, KU-
birnie, West Kilbride, Kilmarnock, Kilmaurs,
Kilwinning, Largs, Loudoun, Stevenston, and
Stewarton. The total number of inhabited houses
in the district in 1831 , was 7,602 ; of families 13,047.
Of these, 2,212 families were employed in agricul-
ture, and 7,457, in trade, manufactures, and handi-
crafts. The total population was 63,453. Cunning-
ham is pleasantly diversified with hill and dale ; but
cannot be said to have any mountains. It is watered
by numerous streams, the chief of which are the An-
nock, Caaf, Garnock, Irvine, and Rye : which
see. In it are several populous towns and villages :
as Ardrossan, Beith, Dalry, Irvine, Kilwin-
ning, Largs, Saltcoats, Stewarton, &c. : which
see. The whole district abounds with coal, limestone,
and freestone. It is, however, mostly in the hands of
great proprietors, and is, of consequence, ornamented
with few seats. Eglinton castle and Kelburne
are the chief: which see. — This district is celebrated
for its dairy husbandry, which has reached greater
perfection here than in any other quarter of Scot-
land. Full milk cheese was first begun to be made
in the parishes of Beith, Dunlop, Stewarton, and
others, soon after the middle of last century. It was
CUN
2S7
CUP
made in the parish of Kilmarnock about the year 1 756 ,
and became common in Cunningham by about 1770.
Some traditional accounts, however, represent it as
of much earlier introduction into the dairies of this
district. [See article Dunlop.] The question of
the origin of this famous kind of cheese is still matter
of keen dispute. About the year 1760, the cows in
the district of Cunningham were not superior to those
now in Bute, Arran, or Kintyre. They were poor
ill-shaped starvelings, which, when fattened, did not
weigh more than from 13 to 15 stones, county weight.
But, about 1750, the Earl of Marchmont purchased
from the Bishop of Durham, six cows and a bull of the
Teeswater breed, — all of them flecked brown and
white, and considerably heavier than the Ayrshire cows
at that period. Bruce Campbell, Esq., of Milnriggs —
who was then factor on his Lordship's estate in Ayr-
shire— brought some of that breed to his byres at Sorn-
beg, and from these many calves were reared in that
part of Ayrshire. John Dunlop, Esq., about the same
time, brought some cows of an improved breed to his
estate of Dunlop ; and the Earls of Loudon and Eglin-
ton, Mr. Orr of Barrowfield, and others, all procured
such cows, and placed them on their estates in Cun-
ningham. These were at that time called Dutch cows,
and they were of the same colour as those brought
to Sornbeg. The dairy-breed on the Clyde have the
colour, and partly the shape of the Ayrshire breed,
and are upon the whole a handsome species of stock ;
but they are too round in the chest, too heavy in the
fore-quarters, and far less capacious in their hinder
parts, than the improved Ayrshire breed. They are
well-fitted for the grazier, but inferior to the Cun-
ningham breed for milkers The district of Cun-
ningham was, until the abolition of feudal jurisdic-
tion, a bailiewick under the Earl of Eglinton. Many
of its leading families, — such as those of Eglinton,
Glencairn, and Loudon, — took a leading part in the
affairs of the kingdom during its most agitated times.
The ancient family of De Morville, the constables of
Scotland, were at one time proprietors of almost all
the district. It was to Hugh de Morville the church
owed the celebrated abbey of Kilwinning, which was
endowed so amply by him and others of his family
as to have a yearly revenue equal to .£20,000 of our
present money. Yet it is singular that there is no
certainty as to their place of residence in this district.
Mr. George Robertson, in his ' Genealogical Account
of the Principal Families in Ayrshire, more particularly
in Cunningham,' [Irvine : 2 vols.] gives the names
of two places supposed to have been their residence,
. — Glengarnock castle, in the parish of Kilbirnie, and
Southannan in Largs, — now in Kilbride. Glengar-
nock appears to have been one of the most ancient
buildings in the district, and its ruins show that it
has been one of the most extensive, and far beyond
what the proprietor of the small barony of Glengar-
nock would have reared for himself. When
"The castle-gates were barr'd,
And o'er the gloomy portal arch,
Tuning his footsteps to a march,
The warder kept his guard,"
he could see from the tower the greater part of
Cunningham lying below him, and would have a
view of the frith of Clyde, thus overlooking the
movements of foreign as well as internal enemies.
The fact, however, cannot be ascertained with cer-
tainty, and we may place it along with that assertion
which makes Glengarnock the residence of Hardy-
knute.
CUNNINGSBURGH, or King's-Burgh, on the
mainland, and in the shire of Orkney and Shetland ;
formerly a vicarage, now constituting part of the
union of Dunross-Ness : see Dunross-Ness.
CUPAR-ANGUS, or Coupar-Angus, a parish
partly in Perthshire, partly in Forfarshire ; extend-
ing about 5 miles in length from south-west to north-
east; and from 1 to li mile in breadth. It is
bounded by Bendochy and Meigle on the north ; by
Kettins on the east ; by Cargill on the south ; and
Blairgowrie and Bendochy on the west. A consi-
derable extent of haugh-ground lies on the banks of
the Isla, which skirts its western side, and is here
frequently greatly swollen by rains. The soil in
general is a clay loam ; but, wherever the ground
rises into eminences, a gravelly soil makes its ap-
pearance. Besides the town of Cupar- Angus, there
are the villages of Balbrogie, Caldham or Cadam,
and Wellton, of which the largest contains about
100 inhabitants There are still visible near the
town of Cupar-Angus the vestiges of a Roman
camp said to have been formed by Agricola in his
7th expedition. On the centre of this camp Mal-
colm IV. in 1164, founded and richly endowed an
abbey for Cistertian monks. Its ruins show that it
must have been a house of considerable magnitude.
In 1561, the revenues of this house were : Money
£1,238 14s. 9d. ; wheat 7 ch. 13 bolls 1 fir. ; bear
75 ch. 10 bolls 3 fir. i peck ; meal 73 ch. 4 bolls
3 fir. 3| pecks ; oats 25 ch. 4 bolls 2 fir. 2 pecks.
The Hays of Errol, next to the Scottish kings, were
the principal benefactors to this monastery. Its
last abbot was Donald Campbell of the Argyle fa-
mily. Upon the distribution made by James VI.
of the lands which came to the Crown on the disso-
lution of the religious houses, his majesty erected
this abbey into a civil lordship, in favour of James
Elphinston, 2d son of James, Lord Balmerino, in
1606 ; but he dying without issue, in 1669, the
honour descended to the Lord Balmerino who was
attainted in 1745 Very recently there was dis-
covered in a field on the estate of Mungo Murray,
Esq. of Lintrose, near Cupar- Angus, a cave of about
27 feet in length, 7 feet broad, and 5 feet high,
strongly but rudely built of stone and lime. In
the cave are two small fire-places, in which were
found various pieces of charcoal, and in the bottom
of the cave a parcel of human bones. There seems
little doubt that this cave had been one of the hid-
ing-places of the Covenanters of this district, in
the days of ' the bloody Claverhouse;' and it would
appear that it had become the resting-place of some
of those persecuted men of old. " Not above 40
years ago" — says the writer of the Old Statistical
Account of this parish, written at the close of last
century — "the broad blue bonnet, with a coat of
home-manufacture, was universally worn by the
men; the tartan plaid, applied closely over a head-
dress of linen, was in use among the women. At
present, few servant-lads are to be seen at church
without their coats of English cloth, hats on their
heads, and watches in their pockets. At the period
just referred to, a watch, an eight-day clock, or a
tea-kettle, were scarcely to be met with. At pre-
sent, there are few houses without one or other of
these articles ; perhaps one-half of the families in
the parish are possessed of all of them." Population,
in 1801, including the town of Cupar, 2,416 ; in 1831,
2,615. Houses, in 1831, 383. Assessed property,
in 1815, £10,325 This parish, formerly a vicarage,
is in the presbytery of Meigle, and synod of Angus
and Mearns. Patron, the Crown. Stipend £239
4s. 4d. ; glebe £25. Unappropriated teinds £139
4s. Church rebuilt in 1780; enlarged in 1830 ; sit-
tings 850. It stands on the Angus side of the town
of Cupar-Angus There is a United Secession
church, which was built in 1790; sittings 522;
stipend £120, with a manse and garden There are
also a Relief congregation ; church built in 1 789 ;
sittings 700; stipend £100; with manse and garden j—
288
CUPAR-FIFE.
a small Episcopalian congregation established in 1824 ;
stipend i'45 ; — and an original Secession congrega-
tion; church built in 1826; sittings 400; stipend
.£S0, with a manse Estimating the population of
the parish at 2,600, the parish-minister calculates
that 1,550 belong to the Established church, and
1,000 to other denominations. — Parochial school-
master's salary £M 4s. 4id., with fees, and emolu-
ments averaging .£20 annually. There are 3 private
schools.
Cupar- Angus, a neat and considerable town in
the above parish; 15 miles north-west of Dundee;
12| east by north of Perth ; and 5 south of Blair-
gowrie. Though designated of Angus, by far the
greater part of this town is in the county of Perth.
It is situated near the Isla, and is divided by a rivulet
into two parts ; that part which lies south of this
rivulet is all that belongs to the county of Angus.
The streets are well-paved and lighted, and the
town has much improved of late years. There is
a steeple which serves as a town-house and prison,
on the spot where the prison of the court-of-re-
gality stood. Small debt, and circuit small debt,
courts are held here. The linen manufacture is carried
on here to a considerable extent. There is also a con-
siderable tannery ; and in the immediate neighbour-
hood a large bleachfield. Cupar-Angus gave the
title of Baron Coupar to James Elphinston, created
Lord Coupar in 1609. The title merged in that of
Balmerino, and suffered extinction with it. The
number of inhabitants in 1793 amounted to 1604;
they are now about 2,200.
CUPAR-FIFE,* a central parish of Fifeshire,
about 9 miles distant from the sea-coast on the
three sides of the peninsula, of Fife ; of a very ir-
regular form, but measuring 4^ miles in its greatest
length from north to south, and 3 miles in its great-
est breadth from east to west. It is bounded on the
north by the parishes of Kilmany and Dairsie ; on
the east by Kemback ; on the south by Ceres and
Cults ; and on the west by Monimail and Moonzie.
The surface is finely undulated, and well-wooded.
The river Eden flows slowly through the parish
from south-west to north-east, between green and
fertile banks of varied beauty. f The town of Cu-
par, and about two-thirds of the parish, are on the
northern side of the Eden. The Lady-burn, or St.
Mary's burn, a small tributary, flowing from the
north-west, after fetching a circuit through the north-
ern suburbs of the burgh of Cupar, joins the Eden
to the east of the town. The soil to the north and
east of the burgh is a friable loam on a gravelly
subsoil ; to the south and west the soil is more in-
clined to sand. The average rent of land is about
* So called to distinguish it from Cupar- Angus; but most
commonly designated by the single term Cupar, which appears
in ancient writings under the several forms of Cupir, Culpure,
Cypre, Cyprum, Cowpar, and Coupar. The etymology of the
name is uncertain, but the word is apparently Celtic; aB the
names of various otiier places in the parisli certainly are: such
as Pittenrrieff, that is, Pitnan-craobk, ' the Dale ;' Kilmaron,
that is, CilL.mha.roin, 'the Cell of St. Ron.'
f It was suggested, many years ago, that a navigable canal
might be formed, nearly in the course of the Eden, as high as
Cupar. That river falls into the sea about 9 miles below the
town ; and the tide rises as high as Lydox mill, little more than
3 miles from Cupar. The fall from the town is very gradual ;
to the place to which the tide rises, not more than 24 feet. It
has lately been proposed to carry a railroad through Fifeshire,
commencing at Burntisland or Kinghorn, and passing Kirk-
caldy and Cupar to Newport, with a branch to Newburgh.
The placid stream of the Eden, and the scenery which diversi-
fies and adorns ita banks, long since touched the imagination of
the poet Johnstone, and found a place in his song :
" Arva inter nemorisque umbras, et pascua laeta
Lene fluens, vitreis, labitur Eden, aquis."
Attracted by the pleasant and healthful situation of the vale in
which the town stands, our kings, says tradition, when they
lived in the neighbouring palace of Falkland, placed Ilia
family-nursery at Cupar.
45s. per acre. Assessed property of the parish, in
1815, £7,503; of the burgh £6,553. Total real rental
of the parish, in 1829, .£9,977 lis. 9d There are
3 mills for spinning yarn within the parish; viz.,
Russell mill, with 600 spindles, on the Eden, 3 miles
west of Cupar ; Cupar flax-mills, with 336 spindles ;
and a mill at Lebanon for twisting thread as well as
spinning yarn. The principal kind of cloth manu-
factured is dowlas; sheetings and Osnaburghs are
also largely made; and there are now above 600
looms in the parish. In 1796, the number of looms
was 223. There are also extensive flour, corn, and
barley mills, several quarries, and a snuff mill .
Besides the county-town, this parish contains the
village of Springfield at the western end, and that
of Glaidney, an extension of Ceres village, at its
southern end : see these articles Kilmaron castle,
14 mile north-west of Cupar, the seat of J. A.
Cheyne, Esq., is the finest mansion in the parish.
It is in the castellated style, from a plan by Gillespie.
— To the south of Kilmaron, and about a mile south-
west of Cupar, is the ancient house of Carslogie, for
many generations the family-seat of the Clephanes.
This family, in times of feudal strife, were leagued
with the neighbouring ancient family of the Scots
of Scotstarvet, who inhabited a strong tower — which
is still entire — situated on a lower ridge of Tarvet
hill, about 2 miles south from Carslogie. On the
appearance of an enemy, tradition relates, horns from
the battlements of the castle from which the hostile
force was first descried, announced the approach of
danger, and the quarter from whence it was advan-
cing; and both families, with their dependents, were
instantly under arms for mutual protection. The
family have been in possession, from time immemo-
rial, of a hand made in exact imitation of that of a
man, and curiously formed of steel. This is said to
have been conferred by one of the kings of Scotland,
along with other more valuable marks of his favour,
on a laird or baron of Carslogie, who had lost his
hand in the service of his country. When Dr.
Campbell wrote the account of this parish in the
Old Statistical Account, in 1796, there still existed,
in a field adjoining to the house of Carslogie, and
near to the public road which leads from Cupar to
the west, the stately and venerable remains of an
ash which for several centuries had retained the name
of the Jug tree. The iron jugs, in which the offend-
ers on the domains of Carslogie suffered punishment,
fell from the hollow body of this tree, in which they
had been infixed, only in 1793. The ancient tree
itself was blown down some years ago. — A mound
of earth, rising considerably above the adjoining
grounds, and extending a great length on the north
side of Cupar, is called the Mote, or, as some write
it, the Moat-hill. They who use the latter orthogra-
phy contend that this rampart is formed of artificial
earth ; and that it originally extended as far as the
castle, and was constructed to defend the town from
any sudden attack from the north, as the river, in
some measure, secured it on the south. There is
no doubt, however, that it ought to be styled the
Mote-hill, as it was probably the place where, in
early times, the justiciary of Fife held his courts,
and published his enactments for the regulation of
the country. The Latin name, by which this hill
is sometimes mentioned, seems to decide the con-
troversy, ' Mons placiti,' which may be translated
' Statute-hill.'—" The parish of Cupar and the sur-
rounding district," says Mr. Leighton, in his ' Fife
Illustrated,' " is rich in localities connected with
events, circumstances, or individuals never to be
forgotten, and affording subjects of thought and re-
flection to even the most ordinary minds. From the
top of Tarvit hill, or, as it is now called, Wemyss-
CUPAR-FIFE.
289
hall bill, these objects attract our attention in every
direction. In the distant west, at the bottom of the
Lomond hills, we see all that remains of the royal
palace of Falkland, where so many of Scotland's
sovereigns of the Stewart race sought pleasant re-
tirement from the cares of governing a turbulent
kingdom, or of attempting to reconcile the differ-
ences of a still more turbulent nobility. How often
have these grey walls resounded with music and
dancing ! How often been the scene of hospitable
feast, and long protracted, yet merry wassail! Over
these fields which skirt the Eden — then a royal for-
est— our ancient kings followed the chase with hound
arid horn, or flew the hawk at its winged prey. At
one time the only sound heard throughout these for-
est-glades was the wild buck's bell, or the call of the
various birds which then frequented them to their
mates ; at another they were the scene of mirth and
sport. There the proudest names in Scotland's his-
tory followed their prince in peaceful and animating
sport. There beauty took the field, hawk on arm,
and knightly valour bowed subservient to its influ-
ence. But, alas! Falkland palace was not always a
scene of joy ; we think on James IV., James V., and
the beautiful Mary ; and we think of crime, of folly,
of misery, captivity, and early death ! Nearer us, in
the same direction, appears the manse of Cults.
There the great painter of our age, the poetic yet
graphic AVilkie, was born and spent his early years.
Amid these gently sloping bills and sweet valleys,
he studied nature, and imbibed that love of truth
and simplicity which he has since, so beautifully in
some instances and so grandly in others, developed.
Still nearer us in the same direction is the ancient
tower of Scotstarvet. There resided Sir John Scott
of Scotstarvet, one of the directors of the Chancery
in the reign of Charles I., ' who was,' says Nisbet,
' a bountiful patron of men of learning, who came to
him from all quarters, so that his house became a
Kind of college.' Among others, he encouraged
Pont in his survey of the whole kingdom, gave him
great literary assistance, and was at the expense of
the publication ; and in yonder old tower he wrote
his curious work, — ' Sir John Scott of Scotstarvet's
Staggering State of Scots Statesmen.' Along the
slope of this hill, under the duke of Cbatelherault
and M. D'Oysel, lay at one time the army which
was intended by Mary of Guise to crush the efforts
of the reformers. On the opposite bank were sta-
tioned those who had determined to die rather than
that popery should longer lord it over the con-
sciences of men ; and on this hill, where we now
stand, the treaty was subscribed, which, though soon
broken through by the queen-regent, gave time to
the reformers, and ultimately led to the establishment
of the Presbyterian religion in Scotland. To the
north rises the Mount, the patrimonial possession of
' Sir David Lindsay of the Mount, Lord Lyon, king-
at-arms,' during the reign of James V. ; and there
he wrote those bitter biting satires which delighted
the people, and paved the way for the Reformation.
The house in which he lived has now disappeared,
but the place is still interesting, and the hill is now
crowned with a monument erected to the memory of
the late Earl of Hopetoun, one of the deliverers of
Europe from the all-grasping power of the late em-
peror of the French. Almost immediately below
us is the school-hill of Cupar, a portion of which
formed the play-field of the burgh, and there the
dramas of Sir David Lindsay were exhibited so early
as 1535. At a far earlier period, however, when
the castle of Cupar was the residence of Macduff,
the lord or Maormore of Fife, it was the scene of
that horrid tragedy, the murder of his wife and chil-
dren by Macbeth, which led to the inveterate hatred
1.
of Macduff, and finally to the establishment of Mal-
colm Ceanmore on the throne ; and of which the
poet has made such a beautiful use in his play of
Macbeth. To the east upon the sea-coast is the
venerable city of St. Andrews, the seat of an ancient
bishopric, and the earliest seat of learning in Scot-
land. With how many great names of Scotland are
these hallowed rums associated! and how intimately
connected is its history with the early civilization
and improvement of our country ! To the south
beyond the vale of Ceres is Craighall, the seat of
Sir Thomas Hope, king's advocate to Charles I.,
and one of the greatest lawyers of his time. In
Ceres churchyard repose in peaceful silence many of
the proud race of Lindsay of the Byres, and some of
the kindred race of Crawford. There is the grave —
although the spot is now unmarked — where rests
that rude lord, who, when the unfortunate Mary
hesitated to sign her abdication, did not scruple to
crush her gentle hand with his iron glove, nor to
force her by rude speech and still ruder threats, un-
willingly to execute the deed which deprived her of
a crown, and consigned her for the rest of her life
to a prison ; and a little to the east in the same val-
ley lies Pitscottie, the residence of Lindsay the
homely yet picturesque relater of a portion of Scot-
land's history. In a word, we know no place more
capable of calling up more varied recollections, or of
elevating the mind and exciting the fancy, than the
top of Tarvit hill." [Vol. ii. pp. 4, 5.]
This parish is in the synod of Fife, and the seat of
a presbytery. The district of Cupar formed a parisJ"
in early times, when the great parochial divisions o*
Crail, Kilrenny, Kilconquhar, St. Andrews, Leuch
ars, and a few others, comprehended all the eastern
part of the county of Fife. The small parish of St.
Michael's of Tarvet, lying on the south of the Eden,
was joined to that of Cupar in 1617. The church
belonging to St. Michael's parish stood on that
beautiful spot now known by the name of St. Mi-
chael's hill. Human bones are still occasionally dis-
covered here when the operations of husbandry are
going forward.. — The ruins of a small chapel, situ-
ated near the eastern boundary of the lands of Kil-
maron, were to be seen near the close of last cen-
tury The parochial church of Cupar, in early times,
stood at a considerable distance from the town to-
wards the north, on a rising ground, now known by
the name of the Old Kirk-yard. The foundations of
this ancient building were removed in 1 759 ; and
many human bones, turned up in the adjoining field
by the plough, were then collected and buried in the
earth. In 1415 this structure bad become ruinous,
or incapable of accommodating the numbers who
resorted to it. In the course of that year the prior
of St. Andrews, for the better accommodation of the
inhabitants of the town of Cupar, and that the rites
of religion might be celebrated with a pomp gratify-
ing to the taste of the age, erected within the royalty
a spacious and magnificent church. This church was
built in the best style of the times, of polished free-
stone, in length 133 feet, by 54 in breadth. The
roof was supported by two rows of arches extending
the whole length of the church. The oak couples
were of a circular form, lined with wood, and painted
in the taste of the times. In 1785, this extensive
building being found to be in a state of total decay,
the heritors of the parish resolved to pull down the
old fabric, and to erect on the same site a church on
a more convenient plan. This they carried into
execution at a considerable expense, in 1785. It is
to be regretted that the new building was not joined
to the spire of the old church which still stands.
The vestry or session-house, by intervening between
the church and spire, gives a detached appearance to
T
290
CUPAR FIFE.
both. The spire has always been considered hand-
some, and appears light and elegant when viewed
from the east or west. It was built by the prior of
St. Andrews in 1415, only up to the battlement: all
above that was added in the beginning of the 17th
century, by Mr. William Scot,* who was for many
years minister of Cupar. The church accommodates
1,300. Within it, in a niche in the west wall, is a
monument erected to Sir John Arnot of Fernie, who
fell in the last crusade. It presents the recumbent
figure of a knight in armour. In the same circle
there is a marble tablet to the memory of the late
Dr. Campbell, one of the ministers of the parish, and
father of the present attorney-general of England.
In the churchyard is a plain upright stone, bearing
the following inscription : " Here lies interred the
heads of Laur. Hay, and Andrew Pitulloch, who
suffered martyrdom at Edinburgh, July 13th, 1681,
for adhering to the Word of God, and Scotland's
covenanted work of reformation ; and also one of
the hands of David Hackston of Rathillet, who was
most cruelly murdered at Edinburgh, July 30th,
1680, for the same cause." On the other side are
the following rude lines : —
'• 1680.
41 Our persecutors filled with rage,
Their brutish fury to aswage,
Took heads and hands of martyrs off.
That they might he the people's scuff;
They Haekston's body cut asunder,
And set it up a world's wonder
In several places, to proclaim,
These monsters gloried in their shame !"
The charge is collegiate. The stipend of each
charge is £259 7s. 9d. ; but the 1st minister has a
glebe of the value of .£21, while the second has
neither a manse nor a glebe. Unappropriated teinds
£1,016 7s. Both livings are in the patronage of
the Crown. — A new church, called St. Michael's,
was erected in the burgh of Cupar in 1837, at an
expense of about £1,800, raised by subscription
shares. It accommodates 810 ; and public worship
is performed in it by the parish-ministers alternately.
— There are two Relief congregations within this
parish. The first was established in 1776, in which
year their church was built, which accommodates 750.
The minister's stipend is £100, with a manse and
garden. The church of the 2d Relief congregation
was opened in 1830. It cost £1,000; and has 454
sittings. Stipend £130. — A United Secession church
was built in 1796, at a cost of £1,100, and enlarged
in 1830, at a further cost of £250; sittings 480.
Stipend £120 A Free communion Baptist congre-
gation was established in 1815 ; and a place of wor-
ship for their use was built in 1821, at a cost of
£40; sittings 370. Stipend £50 An Original
Burgher congregation was established in 1817. Their
place of worship cost £900, and accommodates 540.
Stipend £100 An Episcopalian congregation has
existed here since 1688. Chapel built in 1820, at a
cost of £3,000. Sittings 152. Stipend £100, with
interest of a bequest by Dr. Bell of £450 There
are also small Glassite and Independent churches
There is no parochial school strictly speaking; there
were, however, two burgh-schools so early as the
reign of Charles I., which were, about 1822, merged
into the Cupar academy, conducted by four teachers,
with which the Madras academy, founded by the late
Dr. Bell, was joined in 1834. The united academy
has 7 teachers ; three of whom have a salary of £40
* This gentleman was of the ancient family of Balwearie,
possessed of a considerable estate, and a great favourite with
Archbishop Spottiavvood, with whom he passed much of bis
time in the neighbouring retreat of Dairsie. He died in 1642,
in his 85th year ; and his remains were interred in a handsome
tomb at the west end of the churchyard, the inscription on which
is no longer legible.
each; two others have £25; another, £30; and a
female teacher £15 per annum. f The patronage of
the academy is vested in the magistrates, and in sub-
scribers to the amount of £10, besides certain pa-
trons ex officio ; and the whole management and
direction is centred in the general body of the pa-
trons and their committee of directors. The school-
rooms are provided and half of the schoolmasters'
salaries are paid by the town ; the other half of the
salaries and all incidental expenses, out of the general
subscription fund. The school-furniture and a che-
mical apparatus, purchased at considerable expense,
belong to the subscribers. The teachers have been
appointed by the general body of management. The
regulations made for the academy at its institution
by the patrons and a committee of directors, have
been, from time to time, altered and improved ac-
cording to circumstances. No matriculation book is
kept ; but the number of scholars attending the aca-
demy varies from 150 to 200 annually. No funds
mortified for the purpose of education are under the
control of the council alone The late Dr. Gray of
Paddington, in the county of Middlesex, left £500,
the interest of which he directed to be applied in
payment of a salary to a female teacher in Cupar,
and the management is vested in the provost, clergy-
men, and schoolmaster of the parish for the time
being Dr. Bell conveyed Ms estate of Egmore to
trustees, consisting of the lord-lieutenant of the
county, the lord-justice-clerk, the sheriff of the
county, the provost, the dean-of-guild, and the two
established clergymen of Cupar, for the purpose of
founding an establishment for tuition on the Madras
system. There are two female boarding-schools ;
one of which is on the foundation of Dr. Gray.
There are also a female school of industry, an infant
school, and 8 other private schools.
The royal burgh of Cdpar is pleasantly situated
on the north bank of the Eden, nearly in the centre
of the parish, on the great road from Edinburgh to
Dundee; 10 miles west of St. Andrews; 22 miles
north-east of Kinghorn ; and 31 miles from Edin-
burgh by Kirkcaldy. It is a place of some antiquity,
but contains many new houses, and presents the ap-
pearance of a thriving modern town, well-built, and
cleanly kept. It contains three principal streets :
viz., the Bonnygate, running east and west; the
Crossgate, running north and south, in a direction
nearly parallel with the Eden ; and St. Catherine
street, which is a continuation of the Bonnygate.
Several lanes and alleys branch-off in various direc-
tions from these main lines ; and there is a large irre-
gular suburb on the north side of St. Mary's burn ;
besides a considerable line of houses on the Edin-
burgh road, on the east side of the Eden. All these
suburbs are included within the parliamentary boun-
daries of the burgh. The parish-church stands in
Kirkgate-street, at the entrance of the North road
from Ferry bank. St. Michael's church is at the
west end of the Bonnygate. The Episcopal chapel
is near, or upon, the site of the ancient monastery.
The town-house stands at the junction of St. Ca-
therine-street and Crossgate. It is a plain neat
+ The following are the quarterly fees which the teachers
receive in addition to their salaries: —
Latin £0 7 6
Latin and Greek, . . . . .0106
French, . . . . . 0 7 6
French, when Latin or Greek fee is paid, 0 5 0
Writing, . . . . .036
Writing and arithmetic, . * . 0 5 0
Mathematics, . . . . . 0 10 6
Geography, junior class, . . . 0 3 6
Geography, senior class, . . .050
English, . . . . . 0 4 0
English grammar, . . . .026
English, including grammar and the principles of
composition, . . . . 0 6 0
CUPAR- FIFE.
291
building, surmounted by a cupola and belfry. The
county-buildings in St. Catherine-street, present a
neat though plain facade. They contain the county-
haU, sheriff-court room, and offices for the public
clerks. In the county-hall there is a fine portrait of
the late John, Earl of Hopetoun, by Sir Henry Rad-
\vin ; and another of Thomas, Earl of Kellie, by Sir
David Wilkie. The jail is a neat building on the
left hand of the middle bridge crossing the Eden,
and on the south side of the river. But it has been
reported as totally unfit for its original purpose, and
as " having more the appearance of a gentleman's
seat than of a receptacle for persons who have in-
jured society."
The earliest charter of the burgh of Cupar of
Fife is granted by David II., in 1363, conferring
the privileges of trade upon the burgesses, in like
manner as upon the inhabitants of burghs gene-
rally. These privileges were confirmed, and various
grants of lands conferred upon them, by a charter
granted by Robert IT., dated Dunfermline, 28th
June, 1381 : by a charter of James I., dated at
Perth, 28th February, 1428-9 ; by another of the
same reign, dated 30th October, 1436; by a charter
of King James V., dated 13th March, 151S ; by an
act and warrant of James VI., dated at Holyrood
house, 1573, and by a charter of feu-farm by King
James VI., dated Edinburgh, 4th June, 1595. The
old sett of the burgh consisted of a provost, 3 bailies,
a dean-of-guild, a treasurer, 13 merchant-councillors,
a convener, and 7 deacons of trades : in all 27. It
is now governed by a provost, 3 bailies, and 24 coun-
cillors. The municipal constituency, in 1839, was
259. The revenue, in 1832, was £554 13s. lHd.,
of which £321 arose from land-rental, and £120
from feu-duties. The expenditure in that year was
£751 12s. 9d., of which £223 was interest of money
borrowed. The debt of the burgh at the same pe-
riod was as follows : —
£ s rf. £ ». d.
Heritably secured . . 4,022 10 0
Money borrowed on personal
security .... 2,944 2 1
Accounts unpaid
Value of the annuities at present £32 13s. .
Value of the bursaries per annum £30
8,171 IS 1
The whole property of the town is valued at 13,528 S 2
Free value of property £5,356 10 1
■The revenue, in 1838-9, was £221 4s. ll^d. The
property of the town consists of lands, feu-duties,
customs, and market-dues. The property in land
was at one time very extensive, stretching '3 miles to
the westward, and extending perhaps to 1,000 acres.
Compared with this its present extent is very limited.
The lands seem to have been chiefly feued out about
a century ago, at a time when they were in a state
of nature and at very low feu-duties, the highest is
believed to be Is. per acre, and without any pur-
chase-money. Although the great part of the landed
property seems to have been alienated more than a
century ago, there have been very considerable aliena-
tions of the town's property within the last 50 years.
No local tax is levied in Cupar except the petty cus-
toms. The cess, or burgh land-tax, is levied upon
property and the profits of trade within the royalty
of the burgh. It is allocated by stent-masters chosen
from among the merchants of the burgh by the coun-
cil, by whom the collector is also annually appointed.
The jurisdiction of the magistrates is confined to the
burgh and burgh-acres. The royalty of Cupar is
very narrow towards the north, being bounded on
that side by the Lady burn. Immediately to the
north of this burn, and within the parliamentary
6,966 12 l
474 14 0
130 12 0
. 600 0 0
] boundary, there have arisen of late years several
J villages where there is no police-establishment of
any kind, and which are beyond the jurisdiction of
the magistrates. These villages are called Braehead
and Newtown — both on the lands of Pittencrieff
— and Burnside, Lebanon, and Bank street. Even
more directly within the precincts of the town, and
in the principal street, called St. Catherine-street,
there are houses which are not within the royalty,
although completely surrounded by it. In the street
called the Mitigate, the west side of the street holds
burgage, and is within the royalty, and the east side
is beyond it and holds of the Earl of Rothes. Burgh-
courts are held on stated days for the despatch of
business ; but as the sheriff-courts, both ordinary
and under the small debt act, are held within the
burgh, little business is brought before the burgh-
court. The cases disposed of before the magistrates
have generally been petty assaults and other breaches
of the peace, which are decided in a summary way.
Cases of a graver nature are either reported to the
Crown-officers or taken up by the sheriff of the
county Cupar is conjoined, in the election of a
member of parliament, with St. Andrews, Crail,
Kilkenny, East and West Anstruther, and Pitten-
weem. Previous to the Reform bill, it was rather
anomalously associated with Perth, Dundee, Forfar,
and St. Andrews. Parliamentary constituency in
1839, 333. In an ancient document, styled ' A Brief
View of Scotland in the Sixteenth Century,' printed
by Pinkerton, in his ' History of Scotland,' [Vol. II.
p. 501.] from a MS. in the Cottonian library, it is
said, " Most borrows are at the devotion of some
noblemen, as Cowper in Fiffe managed by the Earl
of Rothes." Among those who represented Cupar
in the Scottish parliament, appears Sir David Lind-
say of the Mount. He repeatedly was commissioner
for the burgh.
Being the county-town, Cupar is principally in-
habited by practitioners in the legal courts, members
of banking-establishments, and persons connected
with the agricultural interest. It is chiefly distin-
guished for its trade in corn, and the mills, brewing,
and such establishments dependent on that species of
market. There are, however, several extensive spin-
ning-mills in the neighbourhood ; and there is a consi-
derable trade in the weaving of coarse linens, and in
home-manufactures, such as leather, can dles,and snuff.
Its printing-establishments, too, have been justly
celebrated for the production of some beautiful spe-
cimens of excellent typography, and the publication
of many useful works. Cupar has been long known
as a leading and important market-town. There is
a weekly corn-market, which is held on Thursday,
and is well-attended. Besides these there are ten
general fairs or markets for the sale of grain and
farm-stock, held at different fixed periods throughout
the year. At these, domestic utensils, agricultural
implements, and various other articles are exposed
to sale. Cupar is also a post-town ; and has two
sub-offices under it, those of Osnaburgh, and
Leuchars. The mail from the south was formerly
carried round by Perth and Dundee ; but by a recent
arrangement, a mail-coach carrying the bags for the
towns north of the Tay, now passes through Fife,
and brings with it the letters for Cupar direct. The
coach also carries passengers between Edinburgh,
Dundee, and Cupar. Two stage-coaches pass through
the town every lawful day, between Edinburgh and
Dundee, affording with the mail every facility for
intercourse with these important towns. Another
coach leaves Cupar for Dundee, every market-day ;
and one between Cupar and St. Andrews twice a-
week. During the summer months a coach runs to
Largo, between which place and Newhaven a steam-
19il
CUPAR- FIFE.
boat regularly plies. Carriers' carts leave Cupar re-
gularly for the conveyance of heavy goofls to and
from Edinburgh, Glasgow, Dundee, and all inter-
mediate towns and villages. Cupar contains a public
library, instituted in 1797, which now contains con-
siderably above 6,000 volumes. It is supported by
the annual subscriptions of the proprietors, and of
occasional monthly or yearly readers. Many scarce
and curious books were bequeathed to this library,
by the late Dr. Gray of Paddington Green, London.
The lawyers of Cupar have begun recently to form a
law-library, which it is expected will soon become
valuable to that body. There is also a circulating
library. There is a public news-room, supported by
yearly subscription, where a well-selected supply of
the leading London and provincial journals is re-
ceived, besides a few monthly publications. A
mechanics' reading-room has also been recently insti-
tuted, in which the working classes are accommo-
dated with newspapers at a very cheap rate. Two
newspapers are published in the town A branch
of the bank of Scotland was opened here in 1787 ;
and in 1792 the British Linen company also
established a branch. In 1802, the Cupar bank
was formed, which gave up business in 1814 ; an-
other bank, which also began business here in 1802
under the name of the Fife bank, continued in opera-
tion till 1825. In 1812, the Commercial bank opened
a branch here. The banks now in operation in Cupar
are the British Linen company's branch, and the Com-
mercial bank branch. There is a savings bank.
Cupar, as already stated, is a place of considerable
antiquity. At an early period the Macduff's, thanes
of Fife, had a castle here, in the midst of the marshy
grounds which bordered the Eden and St. Mary's burn.
It continued the seat of the court of the stewardry of
Fife, until the forfeiture of Albany, Earl of Fife, in
the reign of James I., when that court was removed
to Falkland. During the darker ages, theatrical re-
presentations, called Mysteries or Moralities, were fre-
quently exhibited here. The place where these enter-
tainments were presented, was called the Playfield.
" Few towns of note," says Arnot, in his 'History
of Edinburgh,' " were without one. That of Edin-
burgh was at the Greenside-well ; that of Cupar in
Fife was on their Castle-hill." The pieces presented
in the Playfield of Cupar, however, seem not, at the
era of the Reformation, to have had any connection
with religious subjects, but were calculated to in-
terest and amuse, by exhibiting every variety of
character and every species of humour. To illus-
trate the manners which prevailed in Scotland in the
16th century, and as a specimen of the dramatic
compositions which pleased our fathers, Arnot, in
the appendix to his History, gives a curious excerpt
from a manuscript comedy, which bears to have been
exhibited in the Playfield at Cupar, and which had
been in the possession of the late Mr. Garrick. That
part of the excerpt only, which relates to the place
where the play was presented, is here transcribed :
" Here begins the proclamation of the play, made by David
I.inusay of the Moant. knight, in the Playheld, in the month
of , the year of God 1555 years."
" Proclamation made in Cupar of Fife.
" Our purpose is on the seventh day of June,
If weather serve, and we have rest and peace,
We shall be seen into our playing place,
In good array about the hour of seven.
Of thriftiness that day, I pray you cease ;
But ordain us good drink against allevin.
Fail not to be upon the Castlehill,
Eeside the place where we purpose to play
With gude stark wine your flagons see yon fill,
And iiad yourselves the merriest that you may."
" Cottager. I shall be there, with God's grace,
Tno' there were never so great a price,
And foremost in the fair :
And dri'ik a quart in Cnpar town.
With my gossip John Williamson,
Tho' all the nolt should rair!" fee
During the residence of our kings in Scotland, Cupar
often received visits from royalty. Almost all the
Jameses, and the unfortunate Mary, repeatedly visited
it, and were entertained within the town. The last
royal visit was made by Charles II. on the 6th of
July, 1650, when on his way from St. Andrews to
Falkland. He was entertained at dinner by the
magistrates in the town-hall ; then forming part of
the tolbooth or gaol. " He came to Cowper," says
Lamont, " where he gatt some desert to his foure
houres : the place where he satte doune to eate was
the tolbooth. The towne had appointed Mr. Andro
Andersone, scholemaester ther for the tyme, to give
him a musicke songe or two, while he was at table.
Mr. David Douglysse had a speech to him at his entrie
to the towne. After this he went to Falklande all night.
All this tyme the most part of the gentelmen of the
shyre did goe alonge with him." From an ancient
plan of the town, 1642 — lately engraved from the
original in the Advocates' library, by the Abbotsford
club — it appears that Cupar had anciently gates or
ports. One of these stood at the west end of the
Bonnygate, called the West port; one at the middle
of the Lady wynd, called the Lady port; one below
the castle, called the East port ; one at the bridge,
called the Bridge port ; one at the Millgate, called
the Millgate port ; and another at the end of the
Kirkgate, called the Kirkgate port. It is curious to
observe, from this plan, how little alteration has
since taken place in the streets of the town ; and that
the names of both streets and lanes are still the same
they then were. The principal alteration — with the
exception of buildings in the suburbs — is the taking
down of the old jail and town-house at the Cross,
and opening up St. Catherine-street. Where the
markets are still held, opposite the town-house, at
the junction of Crossgate and Bonnygate, the ancient
cross of Cupar once stood. It was an octagonal build-
ing, with a round pillar rising from it, surmounted by
a unicorn, the supporter of the royal arms of Scot-
land. When the jail was taken down, this structure
was also removed, and at the request of Colonel
Wemyss, the pillar was presented to him, when he
caused it to be re-erected on the top of Wemyss hall-
hill, where it still remains marking the spot on which
the famous treaty between Mary of Guise and the
Lords of the Congregation was subscribed.
CUPAR-GRANGE, a village in the shire of
Perth, and parish of Bendothy ; 2 miles north-east
of Cupar- Angus. It is famous for a particular kind
of seed-oats. Here is a ferry over the Eroch for
foot-passengers. Near this village was discovered
a repository of the ashes of sacrifices which our an-
cestors were wont to offer up in honour of their
deities. " It is," says Pennant in his Second Tour,
"a large space of a circular form, fenced with a wall
on either side, and paved at bottom with flags. The
walls are about 5 feet in height, and built with
coarse stone. They form an outer and an inner
circle, distant from each other 9 feet. The diameter
of the inner circle is 60 feet, and the area of it is of
a piece with the circumjacent soil; but the space
between the walls is rilled with ashes of wood, par-
ticularly oak, and with the bones of various species
of animals. I could plainly distinguish the extremi-
ties of several bones of sheep ; and was informed that
teeth of oxen and sheep had been found. The top
of the walls and ashes is near 2 feet below the sur-
face of the field. The' entry is from the north-west,
and about 10 or 12 feet in breadth. From it a path-
way, 6 feet broad, and paved with small stones,
leads eastward to a laige free-stone, standing erect
CUP
293
CUT
between the walls, and reaching 5 feet above the
pavement, supported by other stones at bottom. It
is flat on the upper part, and 2 feet square. Another
repository of the same kind and dimensions was dis-
covered at the distance of 300 paces from the former.
From the numbers of oak-trees that have been digged
out of the neighbouring grounds, it would appear that
this was anciently a grove."
CUPINSHAY. See Copensay.
CUR (The), a river in the district of Cowal,
Argyleshire. It takes its rise in the mountains
which border on Lochgoilhead, between Glaslet hill
and Benulei. Its course for 2 miles is rough and
rapid, forming, as it descends from the mountains, sev-
eral fine cascades; but when it has reached the plains
of Strachur it runs smoothly, making a number of
beautiful turns. The banks are generally of a deep
soil, partly of loam and clay ; but the crops are fre-
quently much damaged by the sudden rising of its
waters. After a course of about 9 or 10 miles, it falls
into the head of Loch Eck.
CURGARF. See Corgakf.
CURGIE, a small port and village in the parish of
Kirkmaiden, on the western side of the bay of Luce;
3 miles north of the Mull of Galloway.
CURRIE,* a parish in Slid Lothian, about 6 miles
south-west of Edinburgh. Its extent is about 5 or 6
miles in every direction; but in one quarter it measures
from east to west 9 miles. The situation is very-
elevated ; Ravelrig, about the middle of the parish,
is 800 feet above the level of the sea. The soil is
a tough clay, which requires much dressing ; about
one-third of the whole is hill and moss. The river
Leith takes its rise in the western extremity of the
parish, at a place called Leith-head, from three
springs, which receive various additions in their pro-
gress, particularly at the village of Balerno where
they are joined by Bavelaw burn. Limestone is
abundant, but is not wrought, as there is no coal at
a nearer distance than 8 or 9 miles. Freestone
abounds, a quarry of which has been wrought for build-
ing many of the houses in the New Town of Edin-
burgh. There is plenty of iron-stone, and a rich
vein of copper. The Edinburgh and Glasgow rail-
way intersects the parish On an elevated situation,
above the bank of the water of Leith, is an old
castle called Lennox tower, said to have belonged to
the family of Lennox, and to have been occasionally
the residence of Queen Mary in her youth, —
" When love was youn-g, and Darnley kind."
It became afterwards, according to the same tradi-
tion, a seat of the Regent Morton. It stands on a
very elevated situation above the bank of the river,
— commands a beautiful prospect of the frith of
Forth, — and must have been a place of very consider-
able strength, bemg inaccessible on all sides. It had
a subterraneous passage to the river. The extent of
the rampart, which goes round the brow of the hill,
is about 1,212 feet. — Not far from this castle, on the
opposite side of the river, are the ruins of another
ancient edifice, the mansion of the Skenes of Currie-
hill, the date of whose creation, as Baronets of Scot-
land, is unknown; but they possessed very extensive
* From its name— anciently Koria, or Coria— itseems to have
h~e r. one of th'ise districts which still retain their ancient Ro-
man appellation. This conjecture is supported by the following
ait hors, who give an account of the ancient and modera names
of places in Scotland : I. Johnston, in his ' Antiquitates Celto-
NnrmanniaV for the Koria of Ptolemy, places Currie. 2. Dr.
Srnkely, in he= account of Richard of Cirencester's map and
itinerary, for the Curia of Richard, fixes Corstanlaw in the
neighbourhood of Currie. 3. Sir Robert Sibbald, in his Roman
Antiquities of Scotland, conceives it to have been in the plain
near the manor of Ingleston, from a pillar du^' up there, which
place is likewise in the vicinity of Currie. These circumstances
tend to prove that it must have originally been a Roman sta-
tion,— traces of ivhi.-h have lately been found in the neighbour-
hood— Old Statistical Account.
property in this parish. The family of Balmerino,
originally, had here also a considerable domain On
the top of Ravelrig-hill, there are to be seen the
remains of a Roman station, or exploratory camp,
which affords a farther confirmation of the name of
this parish having been originally derived from the
Latin. It is on the summit of a high bank, inacces-
sible on three sides, defended by two ditches, and
faced with stone, with openings for a gate. It is
named by the country people Castle-bank. Farther
east are the appearances of another station or post,
which commands an extensive view of the strath
towards Edinburgh, and is styled the General's
Watch. They are both very distinctly marked, in
an old plan of the Ravelrig estate, but are now much
defaced ; former proprietors having carried off the
greater part of the stones to build fences. Popula-
tion of the village and parish, in 1801, 1,112; in 1831,
1,883. Houses, in 1831, 322. Assessed property,
in 1815, £12,884 The village of Currie is 6 miles
south-west of Edinburgh, on the north bank of the
water of Leith. The road to Lanark passes through
it The parish seems originally to have belonged to
the collegiate church of Corstorphine, and to have
been a benefice of the archdeacon of Lothian. Even
so late as the reign of Charles I. it does not appear
to have been a separate parish, for no mention of it
is made in the royal decree of the erection of the see
of Edinburgh, though all the adjoining parishes are
noticed. That Currie, however, though not perhaps
a separate parish, had very anciently been a place of
religious worship, the writer of the Old Statistical
Account thinks " is clear from this proof, that in
digging for the foundation of the present church, on
the site of the old one, there was discovered a round
hollow piece of silver, having the remains of gilding
on it, and which seems evidently either a part of the
stalk of a crucifix, or of an altar-candlestick. It has
a screw at each end. Its length is 7f inches, and its
diameter 1-^ inch. In a spiral scroll from top to
bottom, there is the following inscription : — ' Jesu
Fili Dei miserere mei.' The letters — which are
Saxon — are very well engraved, and each |- of an
inch large. It is at present in the museum of the
Society of Antiquaries in Edinburgh." — This parish
is in the presbytery of Edinburgh and synod of Lo-
thian and Tweeddale. Patrons, the Town-council
of Edinburgh. Stipend £264 9s. lOd. ; glebe ±"16.
Schoolmaster's salary .£34 4s. 4gd. ; fees £32.
There are 3 private schools.
CUSHNlfi, a small parish, formerly a vicarage, in
Aberdeenshire, which, in 1798, was annexed to the
neighbouring one of Leochel, so that they now form
one parochial charge. See Leochel-Cushnie.
CUTHBERT'S (St.), or West Church, a par-
ish of Mid-Lothian, lying on the north and west
sides of the metropolis, and comprehending a large
tract of valuable land in the immediate vicinity of
Edinburgh. This parish — which anciently contained
the city of Edinburgh, the burgh of Canongate, and
the parishes of Corstorphine and Libberton — must
be considered as, quoad civilia, partly a town and
partly a country-parish. The suburbs of Portsbo-
rough, Potter-row, and the Pleasants, with the other
streets and squares on the south side of the town,
compose the former. The latter — which at present
is very extensive — was anciently much more so ; it
contains above 9,000 acres, and is contiguous to the
city of Edinburgh on the north, west, and south
sides. A great part of the New Town is within
this district — which also contains the suburbs of
Broughton, and Water of Leith, the Borough-
Moor, and Watson's hospital ; also the Charity
workhouse. The greatest length of the parish
quoad civilia is 5 miles • greatest breadth 3 miles.
CUT
294
CYR
Quoad sacra it is now divided into 9 parishes : viz.
St. Cuthbert's, St. Bernard's, Buccleuch, St. David's,
Dean, Morningside, St. Paul's, Roxburgh, and New-
ing-ton. In 1831, the population of the whole district
was 70,887. See article Edinburgh.
CUTTLE, a hamlet in Haddingtonshire, adjoin-
ing to Prestonpans, where an extensive pottery,
saltwort, and magnesia manufactory, were formerly
carried on.
CYRUS (St.), or Ecclescraig, a parish, form-
ing the southern extremity of Kincardineshire ;
bounded by Marykirk, Garvock, and Benholm on the
north ; by the German ocean on the east ; and by
the North Esk river, which separates it from Forfar-
shire, on the south and south-west. It is 5 miles in
length, by 3 in breadth. There are two villages in
the parish: viz., Milton on the coast, and St. Cyrus
to the south-west of Milton. The latter is 5J- miles
north by east of Montrose. The modern and fa-
miliar name of this parish is St. Cyrus ; but in former
civil and ecclesiastical records, Ecclescraig, or Eccles-
greig, is the name generally used. The surface is
uneven, and is intersected with several dens and
rivulets ; upwards of three-fourths of the whole are
arable and well-cultivated ; the remainder being
moor or moss. The soil is in general a deep clay.
In the river North Esk are several valuable salmon-
fishings. The burn of Den-Fenel forms here a grand
and beautiful cascade, especially when increased by
rain falling ovar a perpendicular rock 63 feet in
height. There are several good stone and lime
quarries in the parish. Population, in 1801, 1,622;
in 1831, 1,598. Assessed property, in 1815, ±'10,039.
Houses, in 1831, 352 — This parish is in the presby-
tery of Fordoun, and synod of Angus and Mearns.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend £247 17s. ; glebe £11,
Unappropriated teinds £56 Is. 9d Schoolmaster's
salary £83; fees £33. There were 4 private schools
in 1834. Several years ago, the church of Eccles-
greig stood below the heughs of St. Cyrus on the
shore, near the mouth of the North Esk ; and the
churchyard still continues there. In 1832, this very
incommodious situation of the church was changed,
and a new one built on an eminence a little above
the heughs, more convenient to the parish, from its
easy access and central situation.
CAPE WRATH.
DAB
295
DAI
D
DAB AY, a small island of the Hebrides, annexed
to the county of Inverness. It is about a mile long,
and half-a-mile broad ; fertile in corn and grass, but
liable to be blasted by the south-west winds.
DAER, or Dear, a stream in the upper ward of
Lanarkshire, taking its rise in the mountains border-
ing on Dumfries-shire. It has been contended by
many — and not without show of reason* — that the
Daer is the origin of the Clyde, in so far as the
streamlet which bears the latter name is insignificant
in size as compared with the former at the point at
which the confluence of their waters takes place.
It affords the title of Lord Daer to the eldest son of
the Earl of Selkirk, the residence of which noble
family is at St. Mary's Isle, in the stewartry of Kirk-
cudbright, and their principal possessions are also
situated in that neighbourhood.
DAFF, a village in Renfrewshire, in the parish
of Innerkip, about 3 miles west of Greenock.
DAILLY,* a parish in the centre of the district
of Carrick, Ayrshire. It is bounded on the north
by Kirkoswald ; on the east by Kirkmichael and
Straiton ; on the south by Barr and Girvan ; and on
the west by Girvan. It is of an irregular oblong
figure, stretching from north-east to south-west ;
and measures, in extreme length, nearly 7 miles, and
in breadth from 4 to 6. Its area probably contains
upwards of 17,000 acres. The parish is intersected,
in its extreme length, and along its central division,
by Girvan water ; which, all the way, is a beautiful
pastoral stream, and here receives, on both banks,
several rills of local origin. The surface, at first,
rising gently and variedly from the banks of the
river, and, afterwards soaring into hills of consider-
able height, is a basin abounding in the beauties of
landscape. The lowlands are fertile, well-cultivated,
and richly wooded; and the uplands, though natu-
rally heathy and bleak, are partly reclaimed; and
nearly all afford good pasturage. The beds of the
indigenous rills are, for the most part, deep, well-
wooded, picturesque glens. The soil, in the holms
and meadows along the banks of the Girvan, is light
but very productive; on the south side, is light and
dry, resting on a bed of gravel; on the north side,
is clayey and retentive ; and, on the hills, is thin,
wet, and spungy, consisting in many places of moss.
Coal, limestone, and freestone abound. The coal-
bed is believed to be a wing of the great coal-field
which stretches from the vicinity of Edinburgh into
Ayrshire, and is here worked in 5 seams, of from 4
to 14 feet in thickness. Limestone is worked at
Blairhill, near the south-eastern extremity of the
parish, and at Craighead, near the north-western
extremity. Argillaceous marl is found in most parts,
and has been successfully employed as manure. Nu-
merous small chalybeate springs welling up in dif-
ferent parts of the parish, seem to indicate the exist-
ence of strata of ironstone. ..The climate, in the
valley, is generally dry and mild, but on the high
grounds is moist and chilly ; and though everywhere
subject to heavy showers during westerly winds, is
rarely loaded with fogs. The parish is divided among
7 landowners, 5 of whom have mansions within its
limits. At Kilkerran and Penkill are ruins of forti-
fied castles. Near the lower extremity of a wild and
* The name is probably descriptive of the central stripe, or
dale, of the parish. The ancient name was Dahnaolkeraii, :>*„'.
nilying the 'Dale of St. Keran.'
romantic glen once stood a chapel dedicated to the
Virgin Mary, whence the locality is still called Lady-
glen. At a place called Machry-kill are vestiges of
a small church or chapel, probably dedicated to St.
Macarius. At the southern termination of the west-
ern heights is an oval and doubly enclosed encamp-
ment, 100 yards by 65, commanding an extensive
and uncommonly brilliant view, and probably raised
during the wars of Robert Bruce. There is only
one village, that of New Dailly, situated on the
Girvan, substantially and singularly built, and, of late
years, greatly improved. There are here a library,
a friendly society, and a savings bank. Across the
Girvan are 4 bridges, 3 public and one private. Popu-
lation of the parish, in 1801, 1,756; in 1831, 2,074.
Houses 314. Assessed property, in 1815, .£7,887
Dailly is in the presbytery of Ayr, and synod of Glas-
gow and Ayr. Patron, the Crown. Stipend £348
7s. 9d. ; glebe £15 10s. The old church which
stood at Old Dailly, about 3 miles from the present
church and village, was granted by Duncan, the first
earl of Carrick, to the monks of Paisley ; but was
afterwards transferred by Robert I. to the monks of
Crossraguel, and remained with them till the Refor-
mation. In 1653, an extensive tract of the original
parish of Dailly, lying on the south-east among the
upper branches of the Stinchar, was detached in
order to form the modern parish of Barr. Dailly,
however, received, at the same time, a small addition
on the north-east from Kirkoswald. Though no-
where touching the sea-coast, the parish includes also
the romantic rock of Ailsa, in the centre of the frith
of Clyde. See Ailsa Craig. The present church
was built in 1766, and cost £600. Sittings 650.
There are 4 schools, 3 of them nonparochial. Par-
ish schoolmaster's salary £30, with £30 other emolu-
ments.
DAIRSIE, a parish in Fifeshire; bounded on the
north by Kilmany, Logie, and Leuchars parishes;
on the east by Leuchars ; on the south by Kem-
back, from which it is divided by the Eden ; and on
the west by Cupar. It is of an irregular form, ex-
tending from south-east to north-west 2£ miles; and
from south-west to north-east 2 miles. Superficial
area 2,306 acres, of which only 15 are waste land.
Its general appearance is that of a gently rising
ground : the inclination being towards the south and
south-east. There are in it two hills of a moderate
height, from which are very extensive prospects.
The one is called Foodie, the other Craigfoodie, and
both of them are remarkable for bearing crops nearly
to their summit. The soil is for the most part fer-
tile, and in many places rich and deep. The high
road from St. Andrews to Cupar passes through the
southern part of the parish. The church, a hand-
some building, and the bridge of 3 arches across the
Eden here, were built by Archbishop Spottiswood,
when proprietor of Dairsie. In an old castle, near
the church, he is said to have compiled his Church
history. This castle was once a place of consider-
able strength, and a parliament was held in it in
1355. It is now greatly dilapidated; but a view
of it is given in the edition of Sir Robert Sib-
bald's History of Fife, published at Cupar in 1803.
The principal village is that of Darsiemuir, some-
times called Osnaburg, which is of recent erection.
There is a spinning mill at Newmiln, and another at
Lydiamiln, both on the Eden. A part of the popti- .
DAL
296
DAL
lation is employed in weaving linens for the Cupar
manufacturers. Population, in 1801, 550; in 1831,
605. Houses 133. Assessed property, in 1815,
.£4,827 This parish is in the synod of Fife, and
presbytery of Cupar. Patron, limes of Sandside.
Stipend ±'250 19s. 5d. ; glebe<-£ll. Unappropriated
teinds ±101 13s. 3d. Church seated for 319 —
Schoolmaster's salary .£34 12s. 4id. The parish-
school is near Middlefoodie. There is a female
school at Osnaburg, and a small school at Foodieash.
DAL AROSSIE, or Dalfergussie, that is, ' Fer-
gus's valley,' a district in the shire of Inverness,
formerly a vicarage, now united to the parish of
Moy. Church rebuilt in 1790. See Dyke and Mot.
DALAVICH, in the district of Lorn, and shire
of Argyle, an ancient parish now united to the par-
ish of Killchrenan. It is 17 miles south-west of
Dalmally. The population, in 1801 , was 486 ; and, in
1811, was 426. Near Loch Avich, in this district,
lay the scene of an ancient Celtic poem, translated
by Dr. Smith, called ' Catb-Luina,' or ' The Conflict
of Luina;' in the lake, is an island, the scene of
another poem, called ' Laoi Fraoich,' or ' The Death
ofFraoich;' and many places in this neighbourhood
are still denominated from Ossian's heroes. See
article Avich (Loch).
DALBEATTIE, a village in the parish of Urr
and stewartry of Kirkcudbright. It is situated on
Dalbeattie burn, 3 or 4 furlongs above its confluence
with Urr water. The village was commenced about
the year 1780, and advanced rapidly in prosperity.
It is built of a lively-coloured granite, and offers
high advantages, as to both garden-grounds and the
right of cutting peats, to feuars ; but is surrounded
with a country bleak, barren, and, in many respects,
unpropitious to manufacture or commerce. Though
vessels of small burden can come up from the sea,
Dalbeattie is not likely to become ever of commer-
cial importance.
DALCROSS. See Crot.
DALGAIN, the ancient name of the parish and
village of Sorn, in the district of Kyle, Ayrshire,
and still occasionally applied to the village. An
estate in the parish also retains the name. The vil-
lage, consisting of one row of houses, is situated on
the north side of the road from Ayr to Muirkirk, in
a beautiful holm, having the river Ayr in front, and
overhung from behind by a winding bank covered
with natural wood. It has annual fairs on the second
Tuesday of March, O. S., and on the first Monday
of November, N. S. Its inhabitants are chiefly agri-
cultural labourers, colliers, and quarriers. Popula-
tion about 300.
DALGARNOCK, a suppressed parish in Dum-
fries-shire, incorporated with Closeburn : which
see. The old parish nearly surrounded Closeburn,
and was annexed to it in the 1 7th century. There
was here, in former times, a considerable village,
the burgh of the barony. Though not a single house
of it remains, a fair or tryst seems still to be held on
its site. Says Burns,
" I gaed to the tryst of Dalgarnock,
And wha but my tine fickle lover was there ?"
DALGETY, a parish in the county of Fife ;
uounded by the parish of Aberdour on the east and
north ; by Inverkeitbing on the west ; and by a
small part of the parish of Dunfermline on the north-
west. On the south it is bounded by the frith of
Forth, along which it extends in a straight line about
3 miles; but as the coast in this place runs into
numerous small bays, its circuitous extent is con-
siderably more. It is of an irregular form, but ap-
proaches nearest to the triangular ; being about 4
miles long from south to north ; its breadth gradually
diminishing towards the north, until in some places
it scarcely exceeds half-a-mile. The soil in some
quarters is a light dry loam ; but the greater part of
the parish consists of a deep strong loam. The
ground, in most places, rises considerably above the
level of the coast; the few hills in the parish are
neither high nor rocky. The highest ground in the
parish is about 450 feet above sea-level. There is
a small loch at Otterston, about a mile from the
coast, which is much admired. It is not quite a
mile in length, nor above a quarter of a mile in
breadth, but its banks are finely wooded. Near
it, on the grounds of Fordel, is a fine waterfall.
The house of Donibristle — a seat of the Earl of
Moray — was formerly the residence of the abbot
of St. Combe, but it has since been greatly en-
larged and improved. Donibristle was, in 1592, the
scene of the cruel murder of 'the bonny,' or the
handsome Earl, whose personal attractions and ac-
complishments, it is alleged by some historians, had
impressed the heart of Anne of Denmark, and ex-
cited the jealousy of her royal spouse. This at
least was the popular notion of the time :
" He was a braw gallant,
And he play'd at the gluve ;
And the bonny Earl of Murray,
Oh ! he was the queenes love."
Political reasons, according to Bishop Percy, were
given for his arrest ; but more than arrest seems to
have been intended, for the commission was intrusted
to his inveterate enemy Huntly, who, with a number
of armed men, surrounding the house in a dark
night, set it on fire, on Murray's refusal to surrender.
He escaped the flames, but was unfortunately dis-
covered by a spark which fell on his helmet, and was
slain, telling Gordon of Buckie, who had wounded
him in the face, " You have spilt a better face than
your awin !"* " Hard by it," says Sibbald, " is Dal-
gatie, the dwelling of the Lord Yester ; it was re-
paired and beautifyed with gardens by Chancellor
Seaton, Earl of Dunfermling, who lyes interred in the
church there." Little of it no w remains. Opposite to
the eastern extremity of the parish, and within a mile
of the shore, is the island of St. Combe : see Inch-
colm. The church itself is a very ancient building.
The exact period of its erection cannot be ascer-
tained; but there are documents which show that a
grant of the ground on which it stands, was made to
the abbot of St. Combe as far back as the 14th cen-
* Various accounts of this transaction are given hy Balfour,
Spottiswood, Moyse, Caldenvood, Wodrow, and Gordon. Bal-
four says in his ' Annales of Scotland,' ,( The 7 of February this
zeire, 1592, the Earle of Murray was cruelly inurthered by the
Earle of Huntly, at his house in Dunibrissell, in Fiffpshire, and
with him Dumbar, Shriffe of Murray ; it [was] given out, and
publicly talked that the Earle of Huntley was only the instru-
ment of perpetratting this facte, to satisffie the Kinges jelosie
of Murray, quhom the Otieine, more rashlie than vvyslie; some
few dayes before had commendit in the Kinges heiringe, with
too many epithetts of a proper and gallant man. The ressons
of these surmisses proceidit from proclamatione of the Kinges
the 18 of Marrhe following, iuhibitting the younge Earle of
Murray to persew the Earle of Huntley for his father's slaugh-
ter, in respecte he being wardit in the eastell of Blacknesse for
the same murther, was willing to abyde his tryell; averring that
he had done nothing, hot by the King's ma,ieH coinmissione : and
so was neither airt nor pairt of the murther." In Wodrow's
' Analecta,' preserved in the Advocates' library, [vol. iv. p.
117,] 's the following passage: "The horrible murder of the
Earl of Murray, and burning the house of Dunibriz/el, is no-
ticed hy our historians. It was generally charged on the
House of Huntley. After King Charles' accession to the
throne, the Scots nobility come up to London to wait on him,
and Gordon of Huntley among others. Qn the King heard
of Huntley, he refused peremptorily to see him, and said his
concern in the matter of Duuibri/.zel was so villanouse that he
could not allow him to come to his presence. Cjn this was
told to Huntley he pressed the more to be admitted, and said he
was able presently to satisfy his majesty in yt matter. Wt much
difficulty he was at lenth admitted. When he came in the King
reproached him for yt barbarous act. Ye Earle kneeling drew
out of his bosom K. Ja: ye 6the originall warrandfor qt he had
done to the Earle and his house, and presented it to the king.
The king looked on it, and after reading it, said, ' My lord, this
was wrong given, and worse executed.' ''
DAL
297
DAL
tury. Additions, however, have been made to it,
which bear marks of a later date. There is no par-
ticular branch of trade in this parish, except what
arises from the coal and salt-works here, carried on
to a considerable extent on the estate of Fordel.
The greatest part of the coal and salt is exported
from St. David's, a harbour at the western extremity
of the parish, in Inverkeithing bay, where vessels of
a burthen not exceeding 500 tons can load in safety.
The distance from the pits to the shore is 4 miles,
along which the coals are carried on a railway. The
annual export is about 70,000 tons ; and the coal is
reckoned of a very superior quality. The salt is
chiefly made at St. David's, a village of 150 inhabi-
tants. The village of Crossgate in this parish has a
population of 180. The valued rent, according to
the old valuation, is ,£5,394 Scots. Assessed pro-
perty, in 1S15, £4,203. In the New Statistical Ac-
count the total value of the yearly produce of this
parish is estimated at £38,000, of which £28,000 is
from coal, and £1,600 from salt. Population, in
1801, 890; in 1831, 1,300. Houses 212 This par-
ish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presbytery of Dun-
fermline, and synod of Fife. Patron, the Earl of
Moray. Stipend £227 7s. Id.; glebe £20 There
are 2 schools in the parish. Salary of parochial
schoolmaster £34 4s. 4Jd. Fees £18.
DALGINROSS. See Comrie.
DALHOUSIE. See Cockpen.
DALKEITH,* a small parish in the county of
Mid-Lothian, being only about 2 miles square,
lying on the banks of the North and South Esk
rivers ; bounded on the north by Newton and In-
veresk parishes ; on the east by Inveresk and Cran-
ston ; on the south and west by Newbottle and Lass-
wade ; and on the west by Lasswade and Newton.
Its greatest length is 3£ miles ; greatest breadth 2±
miles. The surface is gently undulated, but in no
quarter rises into hills ; indeed the whole might be
considered a plain, did not the steep banks of the
rivers give it an uneven and broken appearance.
The soil is light on the lower grounds, and, on a
deep clay, well-adapted for raising either fruit or
forest-trees, which arrive here at great perfection.
— Adjoining to the town is Dalkeith park, of 800
Scots acres, within which, about half-a-mile from
the town, is Dalkeith house, the seat of the Duke
of Buccleuch, erected about the beginning of the
last century, on the site of the old castle of Dal-
keith. In ancient times, Dalkeith castle appears to
have been a place of considerable strength, and to
have stood some sieges. It was situated on a per-
pendicular rock of great height, and inaccessible on
all sides, except on the east, where it was defended
by a fosse, through which the river is said to have
formerly run. It was, for some centuries, the prin-
cipal residence of the noble family of Morton ; and
history records, that James, last Earl of Douglas,
exasperated against John Douglas, Lord of Dalkeith,
for espousing the cause of James II., who had basely
murdered William, Earl of Douglas, at Stirling, laid
siege to the castle of Dalkeith, binding himself by a
solemn oath not to desist till he had made himself
master of it. It was, however, so gallantly defended
by Patrick Cockbum and Clerkington, that the Earl
of Douglas, and his followers, found themselves un-
able to reduce it, and were obliged to raise the siege.
On the defeat of the Scotch army at Pinkie, in 1547,
many fled to the castle of Dalkeith for refuge, among
whom was James, Earl of Morton, afterwards regent
of Scotland, and Sir David Hume of Wedderburn.
* Dal-cqcih, or Iceitli, that is, ' the Narrow dale,1 according
to Chalmers. Some suppose ketth equivalent to vath, signify-
ing ' Battle :' in which case Daf/ieilh would mean • the Field
ol Battle.'
It was besieged by the English, and defended for
some time ; but as it contained not a sufficient store
of provisions for such a number of men as had fled to
it, and as the besieged had no hopes of succour against
the victorious army, it was obliged to surrender ; in
consequence of which, the Earl and Sir David were
made prisoners. "Morton's character," says Gilpin,
" is marked in history with those vices which un-
bounded ambition commonly ingrafts upon the fiercer
passions, cruelty and revenge ; to which we may add
an insatiable avarice. Popular odium at length over-
powered him, and he fotmd it necessary to retire
from public life. This castle was the scene of his
retreat ; where he wished the world to believe he
was sequestered from all earthly concerns. But the
terror he had impressed through the country during
his power was such, that the common people still
dreaded him even in retirement. In passing towards
Dalkeith, they generally made a circuit round the
castle, which they durst not approach, calling it, the
lion's den. While he was thus supposed to be em-
ployed in making his parterres, and forming his ter-
races, he was planning a scheme for the revival of
his power. It suddenly took effect, to the astonish-
ment of all Scotland. But it was of short continu-
ance. In little more than two years, he was obliged
to retreat again from public affairs ; and ended his
life on a scaffold." When Morton was executed, the
barony of Dalkeith was included in his attainder,
and although the estate was finally restored to the
Earl of Morton, yet the castle seems long to have
been considered as public property, and to have been
used as such. It was General Monk's residence
while in Scotland. In the year 1642, the estate of
Dalkeith came into the possession of the family of
Buccleuch by purchase from the Earl of Morton.
According to Chalmers, the Douglases of Lothian
obtained in early times a baronial jurisdiction over
many lands, in several shires, which was called the
Regality of Dalkeith. In 1541, James, 3d Earl of
Morton, obtained a charter from James V., con-
firming this regality. In January 1682, George, Earl
of Dalhousie, was appointed bailie of the regality of
Dalkeith. After the death of the Duke of Mon-
mouth, James, his son, was created Earl of Dalkeith.
His mother, Anne, Duchess of Buccleuch and Mon-
mouth died, in 1732, aged 81, when she was suc-
ceeded by Erancis, her grandson. On the abolition
of hereditary jurisdictions, in 1747, the Duke claimed
£4,000 for the regality of Dalkeith ; but was al-
lowed only £3,400. The beauty of the situation is
greatly heightened by the serpentine windings of the
two Esks, which unite in the park about half-a-mile
below the house, and the fine woods with which it is
surrounded. " It stands on a knoll," says Gilpin,
" overlooking a small river. The knoll is probably
in part artificial ; for an awkward square hollow hard
by, indicates that the knoll has been dug out of it.
Beyond the river are woods ; and a picturesque view
of the town and church of Dalkeith. But the house
fronts the other way, where it is not only confined,
but the ground rises from it. It might have stood
with great advantage, if it had been carried two or
three hundred yards farther from the river ; and its
front turned towards it. A fine lawn would then
have descended from it, bounded by the river, and
the woods. We often see a bad situation chosen :
but we seldom see a good one so narrowly missed.
There are several pleasing pictures in Dalkeith
house ; one of the most striking, is a landscape by
Vernet, in Salvator's style. It is a rocky scene
through which a torrent rushes : the foaming vio-
lence of the water is well expressed. I have not
often met with a picture of this fashionable master
which I liked better. And yet it is not entirely free
298
DALKEITH.
from the flutter of a French artist."* Stoddart
says of Dalkeith house, in his ' Remarks on Local
Scenery and Manners in Scotland,' [Vol. i. pp.
123 — 125.]: "The front view is by no means
good, as the ground, rising from it, is soon bounded
by the trees. The architecture is of the Corin-
thian order, and has the formal grandeur of the pe-
riod when it was built, — the latter part of the seven-
teenth century. On the opposite side, it appears
much more picturesquely seated, on an almost
perpendicular bank, overhanging the river. It is
said, that the castle was originally a place of great
strength, inaccessible on all sides, except the east,
where it was defended by a fosse, now filled up.
The rock too has been partly covered with earth,
gently sloped down to the river, and decorated with
shrubberies ; yet this part of the improvements has
not been executed with much taste : there is a for-
mality, both in the disposition of the ground, and in
the planting, which but badly suits the rapid Esk,
and the wild wood on the opposite side. To the
north of the house is a stone bridge, of a single arch,
70 feet wide, and 45 high, exceedingly heavy in its
effect. At its first erection, two stags — the sup-
porters of the Buccleuch arms — were placed on it, as
ornaments ; but they frighted the horses which
passed them so much, that it was found necessary
to remove them. From this bridge the house would
appear to advantage, if the shrubberies, above which
it rises, were in better taste. The park is a noble
piece of ground, containing about 8,000 Scotch acres,
planted with a number of fine old oaks, and other
venerable trees, and watered by the two Esks, the
North and South, whose streams unite about half-a-
mile below the house. The South Esk has a pleas-
ing wildness, being almost entirely overshadowed by
the dark hangings of the ancient wood : the North
Esk comes into more open day ; but has several very
pleasing walks on its banks, with views of the town
and church of Dalkeith, &c. In this park were
formerly kept some of the native wild cattle of Scot-
land described by Pliny, [see article Cdjibeenapld] ;
but the Duke and his son having experienced a dan-
gerous attack from them, they were destroyed."
The park is well-stocked with deer. — Population
of the parish, in 1801, 3,906; in 1831, 5,586.
Houses, in 1831, 567. The two villages of Lug-
ton and Bridgend had a population, in 1838, of
284. Assessed property, in 1815, £11, 911. —This
parish, to which the barony of Lugton was annexed
in 1633, is in the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale,
and is the seat of a presbytery. Patron, the Duke
of Buccleuch. Stipend £316 9s. 2d. ; glebe £40.
Unappropriated teinds £610 lis. lid. The old
church accommodates 1,130. An additional church
has been built by the Duke of Buccleuch at the west
end of the town; sittings 1,000. — There are two
United Secession congregations. The 1st of these
was established in 1744; church built in 1812; sit-
tings 880. Stipend £100, with manse and garden.
The 2d was established, and the church built in 1 749 ;
sittings 436. Stipend £100, with a manse A Re-
lief congregation was established here in 1768.
Church seats 685. Stipend £139, with manse
An Independent church was formed here in 1804.
* The same tourist adds : " Here, and in almost all the great
houses of Scotland, we have pictures of Queen Mary; but their
authenticity is often doubted from the circumstance of iier hair.
In one it is auburn, in another black, and in another yellow.
Notwithstanding, however, this difference, it is very possible
that all these pictures may be genuine. We have a letter pre-
served, from Mr. White, a servant of Queen Elizabeth, to Sir
William Cecil, in which he mentions his having seen Queen
Mary at Tutbury castle. ■ She is a goodly personage,' says he,
' hath an alluring grace, a pretty Scottish speech, a searching
wit, and great mildness. Her hair of itself is black ; but Mr.
Knolls told me, that she wears hair of sundry colours.' "
Chapel accommodates 300. Stipend £85. — A Wes-
leyan Methodist chapel was built in 1 789 ; sittings
240 — Parochial schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4Jd.
a house and garden, &c, with an average fee of 15s.
for each pupil ; average number of pupils 100. There
are 10 private schools in this parish.
Dalkeith, a town in the above parish, 6J miles
south-east of Edinburgh, and 18i north-west of
Lauder, on the Great south road from Edinburgh.
Population, in 1838, 4,642. It is situated on a nar-
row stripe of land between the two Esks, the banks
of which are here beautifully fringed with wood.
The principal street is broad and spacious, contain-
ing a number of elegant houses, and the whole town
may be considered as well-built. One of the greatest
markets in Scotland for grain is held here every
Thursday. It is the most extensive ready-money
corn-market in Scotland. The quantities of the
different kinds of grain exposed for sale in the mar-
ket-place of Dalkeith in the year ending on the 1st
July, 1839, were as follows :— Wheat, 10,220£ qrs. ;
barley, 15,803 qrs. ; oats, 43,630J qrs. ; pease and
beans, 1, 821 J qrs. : — in all 71, 475£ quarters ; while
the aggregate quantity sold in Haddington markets —
supposed to be next in magnitude — during the same
period was 42,361 qrs. It is to be observed, how-
ever, that 1838-9, being a year of comparative scar-
city, neither of these returns can be taken as a fair
representation of the quantity brought to market in
ordinary seasons, which in the case of Dalkeith, it is
thought, may be moderately stated at 100,000 qrs
There is another market of considerable extent held
every Monday for the sale of meal, flour, and pot-
barley, a considerable portion of the supplies brought
to which come from the more southern parts of the
county, and from the neighbouring counties of Rox-
burgh, Berwick, Peebles, and Selkirk.* Dalkeith
is also remarkable for the number of its shops and
the extent of business done in them. Favoured by
its extensive markets and convenient situation, the
shopkeepers of this place contend successfully with
those of the neighbouring metropolis in supplying
with their peculiar commodities the inhabitants of the
south and western parts of the country, and they
have thus contributed in no slight degree to the pre-
sent comfort and respectability of the place. Though
well-adapted for the prosecution of manufactures,
* In the Old Statistical Account of the parish of Dalkeith,
published in 1794, it is stated that " The village is abundantly
supplied with excellent butcher-meat, which may be bad in
great perfection on the Thursdays and Saturdays. The butchers
here contribute considerably to the supply of the Edinburgh
market, and some of them sell there the whole of what they
kill. During the season of winter and spring, the price of beef
is 4d. the lb. avoirdupois ; veal, 5d. ; mutton 5d. ; and pork, 4d.
From the month of September till about the middle of January,
the price of beef and mutton is 3d. or 3£d. thepound ; but dur-
ing the rest of the year it is not lower than what has been
mentioned above. In the summer season, chickens sell at about
3d. the pair, and hens from 16d. to J8d. In summer, the price
of butter is lOd. the lb. Butter is sold here by tron weight
22 07.. to the lb. ; in winter it rises sometimes to Is. or Is. Id.
The wages of labourers in husbandry, during the summer-sea.
son, are from Is. to Is. 3d. the day. Mowers receive from Is.
8d. to 2s. Gardeners from Is. 2d. to Is. (id. In winter, common
labourers receive from 8d. to 10d., and gardeners Is. The wages
of domestic female-servants, a-year, are from £2 10s. to £1."
The reader will be interested in comparing these prices and
wages with tho6e now current in Dalkeith. Very little butcher-
meat is now sent from Dalkeith to the Edinburgh market : the
London mart is the great object of attention. In the winter of
1838, Mr. Plummer of Dalkeith sent butcher-meat of different
kinds to London to the value of £10,000; and, on an average,
the amount sent from Dalkeith to London may be £15,000 per
annum. Ewe mutton now averages, from October to January,
about 5d. per lb. ; and from January to October, 6d. Wedder
mutton fetches about Id. per lb. more. Beef sells at the same
price as mutton. Veal fetches 7d. per lb. from October to
January ; and 9d. from January to October. The price of poul-
try is nearly the same as in 1793. The price of butter varies
greatly from year to year. Perhaps lOd. per lb. for Scottish
salt-butter has been the average price for a series of years.
Male agricultural labourers get from 10s. to 12s. per week all
the year round, female labourers, about 58, per week.
DALKEITH.
299
the opposition of the extensive landed proprietors
in the neighbourhood has hitherto — except in one in-
stance— prevented their introduction into the parish.
Extensive corn and flour mills have been erected by
His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch on the North Esk, —
and on the South Esk there is a smaller erection of
the same kind, belonging to the Marquis of Lothian.
A few manufactures have been introduced ; but
these have not been carried to any considerable ex-
tent A gas light company was formed in 1827.
There are here branches of the Royal bank, the Na-
tional bank, the Commercial bank, the Edinburgh
and Leith bank, and the Leith bank Fairs are held
here on the 1st Thursday after Rutherglen May fail-,
and the 3d Tuesday of October In July 1640, a
National security savings bank was established by
the desire of the Scientific association, for the benefit
of the working-classes, and there is every prospect
at present of the institution being, ultimately, suc-
cessful. In 1835, an association was formed to pro-
vide for the delivery of popular lectures on the more
interesting branches of physical and economical
science. The subjects which it has succeeded in
bringing before the inhabitants are chemistry, natu-
ral philosophy, geology, zoology, botany, and po-
litical economy. In 1837, a library of scientific
works was begun in connexion "with the association.
During the summer-season, Dalkeith is much resorted
to by parties of pleasure from Edinburgh. The church
is a Gothic fabric, founded by James Douglas, Earl
of Morton, in the reign of James V. The town is
governed by a baron-bailie under the Duke of Buc-
cleuch. Originally the baronial right belonged to the
family of Graham, and subsequently to that of
Douglas. In 1642, it was acquired by the family of
Buccleuch. Previous to 1759, Dalkeith, like other
burghs of barony, was entirely regulated by the su-
perior and his bailies ; but, in that year, a statute
was obtained appointing certain trustees to superin-
tend the paving, cleaning, and lighting of the streets,
and to supply the inhabitants with water ; and pro-
viding a revenue for these purposes by imposing a
small tax on the ale, porter, and beer consumed in
the parish. The powers conferred by this act have
been continued and extended by subsequent statutes,
which acknowledge — and, to some extent, preserve
— the influence of the feudal superior, by investing
the baron-bailie, for the time being, with the powers
of a trustee. The direct and proper jurisdiction of
the baron-bailie is very limited, extending only in
criminal affairs to the imposition of small fines, or
to imprisonment for one night; and, in civil mat-
ters, to granting warrants at the instance of land-
lords for the sale of their tenants' furniture in order
to recovery of rent. More serious cases are referred
to the sheriff of the county, and all matters of local
police regulation are taken up by the trustees. Va-
cancies occurring in the office of trustee are filled up
by the surviving members, who are understood to
select for this distinction individuals who have been
nominated by, or are believed to be agreeable to the
bailie. Being self-elected, and holding the office
during life, the trustees are obviously in the utmost
degree independent of the inhabitants over whose
affairs they preside, and, in times of political excite-
ment, the appointments to this office have generally
been found to assume an anti-popular complexion ;
yet it must be stated to the honour of the trustees,
that, as a body, they have never interfered with po-
litics, and that the prudence and attention with
which they have discharged their gratuitous duties
could scarcely have been increased by any amount of
popular control. Indeed, it may be truly affirmed
that Dalkeith is one of the cheapest and best go-
verned towns in the country. The customs are
leased from the superior by trustees under local acts,
at a rent of £ 100. Their produce is about £250.
The trustees administer a revenue of about £600.
Few things have contributed more to the health
and enjoyment of the inhabitants of Dalkeith than
the formation of the railway between that place and
the metropolis. This undertaking was commenced
in 1827, and opened for the conveyance of passengers
to Edinburgh and Fisherrow in 1831 . Leith was con-
nected with the main line by a branch, in 1835 ; and,
in the end of 1838, another branch was carried for-
ward from the south line near Newbattle to the town
of Dalkeith, by the Duke of Buccleuch. The views
of the company were originally limited to the con-
veyance of coal, and other mineral produce, and
manure, &c, between the mines of Mid-Lothian, and
Edinburgh, Dalkeith, Leith, and Fisherrow. Pas-
sengers were not thought of in the original estimates
of the railway, although they have become the chief
source of profit. Their number averages now about
300,000 per annum, and the tonnage about 120,000
per annum. The main line and the Fisherrow branch
are the property of the original subscribers. The
Leith branch is a separate concern, belonging to a
different set of subscribers ; and the Dalkeith branch
is the exclusive property of the Duke of Buccleuch.
These railways are worked by horses, which are
considered the most economical power for short
distances in a populous country where stoppages
are very frequent. There have been run upon this
railway about 12,000,000 of miles, and carried
about 2.000,000 of passengers, from its opening
in July, 1831, up to October, 1840, that is, 94
years, without one fatal accident, and none others
of a serious nature Amongst the many useful
and enterprising works commenced by the pre-
sent Duke of Buccleuch, there are few more mag-
nificent in point of pictorial effect than the bridge
now in progress over the Esk, on the south-
east of Dalkeith. The arches are 5 in number,
of 120 feet span each, constructed of built beams
of timber abutted upon stone piers of tasteful archi-
tecture, and thrown across one of the most beautiful
turns of this beautiful stream. The appeatance of
the bridge is light, airy, and exceedingly elegant,
while the different views through the arches into the
fine grounds of Wood-burn, and up the valley of the
Esk, are of the most picturesque description. This
bridge is to connect an extensive coal-field on the
property of the Duke at Cowden with the Dalkeith
railway ; but it rarely happens that beauty and use-
fulness are so felicitously blended as in the present
instance. When finished, this bridge will be an ob-
ject of great attraction to all who visit the romantic
scenery of the Esk. It is within ten minutes' walk
of the Dalkeith railway station.
DALLAS, or Doixas, a parish in the centre of
the shire of Elgin ; bounded on the north and north-
east by the parish of Elgin ; on the east and south-
east by the parishes of Rothes and Birnie ; on the
south and south-west by those of Knockando and
Cromdale ; and on the west and north-west by Bas-
sord and Edenkillie. It extends about 12 miles from
east to west, and 9 from north to south ; but its
mean breadth, taken across from the southern side
of the hill of Melundy, measures only about 6 miles.
It is surrounded by hills so as to form a valley or
strath, almost equally divided from south-west to
north-east by the small river Lossie, which issues from
a small loch in the south-western extremity of the
parish, due south of the manse. Several burns or
rivulets, rushing down from the hills on both sides,
join the Lossie nearly at right angles to its course.
A part of Dallas — the estate of Craigmill — lies in
the southern end of the valley of Rafford parish.
DAL
300
DAL
Through this estate the stream of the Lochty, — a
tributary to the Lossie, — runs eastward through a
narrow cut in the rocky hill, to loiter in the vale of
Pluscarden. This cut appears as if made merely for
the passage of the Lochty, and it would be easy to
turn it northward by Rafford church, if that was not
its original course. The greater part of Dallas parish,
however, lies on the south side of the hill of Melun-
dy, which is stretched between the courses of the
Lochty and the Lossie. A great part of the plain
on the south side of the hill of Melundy must have
been a lake, when the Lossie occupied a channel
about 3 feet higher than the bottom of its present
bed ; and, except a pool still covering a few acres,
the whole of this plain is now a deep extensive bed
of pure peat earth : thence probably arose the Gaelic
name Dale-Visk, 'the Water- valley.' The live
produce is generally sent to market for sale at Elgin,
Forres, &c, to which towns, also excellent peats are
sent from the inexhaustible mosses in this parish.
There are considerable plantations of fir, oak, &c,
here, and excellent quarries of freestone, with great
abundance of grey slate. There are some chalybeate
springs. During summer there is good fishing in the
Lossie for fine small trout ; and, in September and
October, for finnac or white trout, and a few small
salmon. During the risings of this river, almost a
third of the population were at times impeded in
their attendance at the church, till a wooden sus-
pension bridge was erected. Population, in 1801,
818; in 1831, 1,153. Houses 240 This parish is
in the presbytery of Forres, and synod of Moray.
Upon the annexation of Altyre to the parish of Raf-
ford— and which formerly belonged to Dallas — Killes,
and part of the parish of Elgin, was annexed to Dal-
las. This took place in 1657. Patron, Cumming of
Altyre. Stipend £158 6s. 8d. ; glebe £11. Previ-
ous to 1794, when the present church was built, —
the church-service was performed in a very ancient
fabric, thatched with heath, and without windows,
save two or three narrow slits which yawned to a
very undue width within; the effigy of St. Michael,
the patron, stood weather-beaten in a niche near the
top of the eastern gable without. In the churchyard
a neatly cut stone column, 12 feet high, terminated
by a well-formed fleur-de-lis for its capital, was then
used, and afterwards remained in use as the. market-
cross, for the sale of bankrupts' effects, cattle, &c.
The present church and manse are commodious
buildings, though, being near the Lossie, both are
in some danger of being swept away. Sittings in
the church 404. Schoolmaster's salary £34 14s. 4^d.,
with from £10 to £12 fees, and a share of the Dick
bequest. There were 3 private schools in 1834, one
of which, at the east end of the parish, was built by
the Earl of Fife for the education of his tenants'
children.
DALLINTOBER. See Campbeixton.
DALMAHOY. See Ratho.
DALMALLY, a small village in the parish of
Glenorchy, Argyleshire, situated at the head of Loch
Awe; 16 miles north-east of Inverary, and 12| west
of Tyndrum. Heron, who visited this place in 1792,
writes: " Among other spots to which the landlord
of the inn at Dalmally conducted me in the morning,
was a height called Barhassland, the residence of Mr.
M'Nab, the representative of a family of blacksmiths,
who have occupied this station since the middle of
the 14th century. The progenitor was, at that time,
invited hither by Sir Colin Campbell of Lochow, to
fabricate the iron-work necessary in the construction
of the neighbouring castle of Kilchurn, and to work
as smith to the family and to the tenants upon the
estate. A line of his posterity have ever since con-
tinued to practise his craft on the spot where he was
settled. The present representative of this ancient
family of blacksmiths is a very decent, intelligent
man. He received us kindly, — carried us round hi?
little demesne, — talked with a degree of modest pride
of the antiquity of his family, and of the ancient
respectability of the blacksmiths in this country, —
and at last carried us into his house, where his wife,
with true Gaelic hospitality, entertained us with the
most delicious milk I have ever drunk. He care-
fully pointed out to my observation the remains of
some rude fortification which had once stood on this
height. Much of it has been demolished, and the
materials removed. The earth has risen over some
other parts ; but the fine of the walls may still be
traced, and the lowest layers of its stones have not
been altogether carried away. Those stones are
vast masses, worn smooth by the action of the air
and rain, and partly covered over with moss. They
seem to have been joined by no cement. The for-
tress has been round, and of considerable extent.
This was indeed a natural enough situation for a
fortress, — in the pass between Glenurquhie and
Lochow. In the days of civil disorder, when every
petty chieftain was a sovereign ; and when the mul-
titude of separate interests, and the ferocious man-
ners of the times, kept up a perpetual warfare in the
land, it was absolutely necessary to bar up such
passes as this against hostile invasion. This old
fortress seems to be of earlier foundation than the
settlement of the family of Macnabs here. Mr.
Macnab and his neighbours wished to persuade me
that it was Pictish. But, as it is not probable that
the Picts ever occupied Argyleshire, I was not in-
clined to adopt their idea. I saw here, also, another
monument of ancient manners : a coat of mail, with
two head-pieces of different fashions, which have
been long preserved by this family as specimens of
the workmanship of their ancestors. Where every
Highlander was a soldier, and wore arms, a black-
smith was necessarily a man of high consequence.
In the simple state of all the mechanic arts among
this people, that of the blacksmith who could forge
armour, was by far the most complex, and the most
highly improved. The demand for his productions
jjwas universal. They were employed, too, for the
most honourable of all purposes. When all the most
honourable persons in the society were soldiers, he
who furnished the soldier with his weapons for war
could not be a mean or despised man." [' Observa-
tions,' vol. i. pp. 293—295.]
DALMELLINGTON, or Damelingtoun,* a
parish at the southern angle of the district of Kyle,
Ayrshire. It is bounded on the north by Ochiltree ;
on the east by New-Cumnock; on the south-east by
Kirkcudbrightshire; on the south-west by Loch
Doon and Doon water, which divide it from Strait-
on ; and on the west by Dalrymple. It has nearly a
triangular figure, the longest side being from north-
west to south-east along the Doon ; and it measures,
in extreme length, 10 miles, in average breadth about
3. Along the Doon, over a distance of 3 miles, a
plain or very gentle slope stretches inward, of nearly
the figure of a crescent, narrowed to a point at both
extremities, and measuring about a mile at its cen-
tral or greatest width. Behind this plain the whole
parish rises upward in continuous eminences or
mountain ridges. The ridge nearest the Doon closes
that river closely in at the north-western angle of
* The writer in the Old Statistical Account says : " The true
orthography of Damelingtoun is said to be 'Dame Helen's
Town,' after a ladv of rank and fortune, of the name of Helen,
who built a castle 'near this place." Chalmers, m his Caledo-
nia, however, derives the name from two Gaelic words, dut,
a valley: mutton, a mill,, and the common Saxon termination,
toun, or tot,— and thus makes it mean ' the Town of the Valley
of the mill.'
DAL
301
DAL
tlie parish, extends away eastward, limiting the low-
lands, and abruptly terminates to the north-east of
the village, in a splendid colonnade of basalt, 300
feet in height, and 600 in length. Two other ridges
run south-eastward and southward, and are connected
at the north end by a ridge coming dowi. upon them
westward from the parish of Ne w-Cumnoek. Though
the hills are in general easy of ascent, and in only
three places are, for a short way, precipitous, yet
they form gorges and mountain-passes of fascinating
interest, and, in one or two instances, of peculiar
grandeur. Along the road from the village of Dal-
mellington to Carsphairn in Kirkcudbrightshire, two
ridges approach for upwards of a mile, so nearly to
an embrace as to leave at their bases barely suffi-
cient space for the public road and the bed of a moun-
tain-rill. At the extremity of the range, also, where
the liver Doon issues from its picturesque mountain-
cradled lake, [see Doon, Loch,] rocky, perpendicular
elevations, whose summits rise 300 feet above the
level of the river, are, for about a mile, so brief a
space asunder, as to seem cloven by some powerful
agency from above, or torn apart by some convulsive
heave beneath their base. The narrow, stupendously
walled pass between is called the glen of Ness, and
opens, at its north-western extremity, into the low-
lands, or crescent-figured plain, of the parish. The
river Doon escapes from the loch by two narrow
channels in the naked rock, dashes impetuously along
the glen of Ness, and afterwards moves slowly for-
ward among meadowy banks, receiving, in its pro-
gress, the waters of several rills, or occasionally
swollen and inundating torrents, from the inland
heights. The springs of the parish are pure and
limpid, and flow, for the most part, from beds of
sand and gravel. Nearly a mile from the south-east-
ern boundary, and surrounded by heathy moorland,
is a small lake of about 25 or 30 acres in area, the
waters of which are dark, and very deep, and abound
in black trout. The soil, on the plain along the
Doon, is a strong, rich, clayey loam ; around the
village, is dry and gravelly; and behind the Doon, or
lower range of hills, is moss or moorland. About
J of a mile below the village is a morass of about
150 acres, resting on a spongy bed, and imbosoming
some oaks of considerable size. Coal — the most
southerly of the Ayrshire field, but prime in qua-
lity— is worked from deep seams, and affords a sup-
ply to places in GaUoway even 30 miles distant.
Sandstone abounds ; and lime and ironstone are not
infrequent in occurrence. The parish is traversed
by two great lines of road parallel to the Doon. one
of them the coach-road from Ayr to Dumfries ; and
by a line of road north-eastward, leading from the
village of Dalmellington to that of New-Cumnock ;
and it is abundantly accommodated with bridges for
these and for by-roads, there being 6 across the
Doon, and 9 or 10 across the smaller streams. A
very old house in the village, bearing the inscription
1 ,003, is called Castle-house, owing, as is supposed,
to its having been built of materials taken from an
ancient castle in the vicinity, called Dame Helen's
castle. Between the village and the site of that
castle is a beautiful moat, surrounded with a deep,
dry fosse. On a precipitous cliff in a deep glen, pro-
tected on three sides by the perpendicular rock, and
on the fourth by a fosse, stood formerly a fastness,
which, from some storied connection with Alpine,
king of Scotland, gives to its site the name of Lacht
Alpine. In the uplands were, at one time, three very
large cairns, one of them upwards of 100 yards in
circumference, and all covering vast masses of human
bones. A Roman road, coming up from Dumfries-
shire and Kirkcudbrightshire, and measuring 10 or
11 feet broad, formerly traversed the parish from
south-east to north-west, and passed from it into
Dalrymple. DalmeUington figured largely in the
affecting scenes of the persecution under the Stuarts,
and abounds in traditions respecting the sufferings of
the Covenanters. Wodrow represents it as having
been watched and oppressed with such large bodies
of troops, that, at one period, they must have been
more numerous than the inhabitants ; and, while
giving detailed accounts of the heavy and multiform
local grievances which they inflicted, he says, " Had
materials come to my hand as distinctly from the
rest of the country as from this parish, what a black
view we might have had !" — The village of Dalmel-
lington is snugly situated, on the road from Ayr tc
Dumfries, in a recess of the plain of the parish,
sheltered by the hills, and about J of a mile north-
eastward of the Doon, or of a stripe of waters J- of
a mile broad, and called Bogton loch, into which
the Doon, during about a mile of its progress, ex-
pands. It is a neat, thriving place, — and has two
woollen mills, a carpet manufactory, and a consider-
able number of private looms. Here are a subscrip-
tion library, a reading-room, a savings bank, 7 inns,
3 schools, and the parish-church. Belonging to the
village are 2 commons, which afford pasturage to
from 50 to 60 cows. Annual fairs are held on Fas-
tern's E'en, Halloween, and the first Friday after
Whitsunday, all old style. The village is a burgh-of-
barony. Population of the parish, in 1801, 787 ; in
1831, 1,056. Houses 189. Assessed property, in
1815, .£2,566 Dalmellington parish, formerly a vic-
arage of chapel-royal of Stirling, is in the presbytery
of Ayr, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend .£158 6s. 8d. ; glebe £20.— The
parish-church was built in 1766; sittings 400. Par-
ish-schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4|d., with £10 fees.
There are two schools non-parochial.
DALMENNOCK BAY. See Loch Ryan.
DALMENY,* a parish in the north-east of Lin-
lithgowshire, consisting of a main body and a de-
tached portion The former is bounded on the north
and north-east by the frith of Forth ; on the east
by Cramond; on the south by Edinburghshire and
Kirkliston ; and on the west by Abercorn. It has
a figure somewhat resembling the outline of a violin ;
and measures, in extreme length, from Cramond
bridge on the east to an angle near Tottling Well
on the west 5| miles ; and in extreme breadth, from
Mound Point on the north to a bend in the Almond
near Wheatlands, 3£ miles. The detached portion
lies a mile south-west of the main body ; is bounded
on the north by Abercorn, on the east by Kirkliston,
and on the south and west by Ecclesmachan ; and is,
in its greatest length, 1J mile, and in its greatest
breadth 1. The surface is high in the central dis-
trict, declines somewhat to the west, has a very con-
siderable declivity to the south, and slopes still more
rapidly to the north, where it terminates in a bold
bank upon the Forth. Toward the east are three
rocky ridges or hills, covered with wood, called
Mons, Dundas, and Craigie. The summits of all
these, but especially that of Mons-hill, place an ob-
server in the midst of a vast and most beautiful and
varied panorama, bounded only by the limits of vision
or the hazily seen summits of the great mountain
ranges of Scotland. The Forth, with its thousand
attractions, glitters in nearly all its length before the
view ; the Lothians and the most cultivated districts
of conterminous counties, are spread out with the dis-
tinctness of a map; and the spectator, delightfully
* Dalmeny or Dalmenie, is a corruption of Dumanie. In
ancient charters, the name is written in the Latin form, Dum.
anyn. Dumanie is said to mean, in Gaelic, * a Black heath ;'
and may probably be descriptive of the orignal appearance of
a large portion of the parish*
DAL
302
DAL
perplexed with the importunings of competing beau-
ties which everywhere crowdedly demand his notice,
rinds no repose to his eye till it rests on the heights
of Lammermoor or the far-seen cap of Ben-Lomond.
Immediately beneath him, in the parish itself, is a
landscape of no common beauty. The plantations of
the Earl of Roseberry, his antiquated but picturesque
castle, situated witliin sea-mark, and his charming
park of Barnbougle, with its bold undulations of
height and lawn, constitute, with the other attrac-
tions of the district, a truly fascinating picture.
Nearly the whole parish is well-cultivated, well-en-
closed, sheltered and beautified with plantation, and
cheeringly productive ; and it is adorned, not only
by the mansion and grounds of Lord Roseberry, but
by those of Craigie hall, of Dundas castle, and of
Duddingstone. The soil of the higher grounds, and
of the detached portion of tbe parish, is, in general,
a shallow clay on a cold bottom ; on the declivities
and the low grounds, it is a rich loam; and, in a few
spots, it is what has been termed perpetual soil, re-
quiring little manure, and exceedingly fertile. On
the coast is a vast bed of prime freestone, which has
been extensively worked to supply places far distant
with materials for ornamental building. Limestone
and ironstone also are found. At the west end of
Queensferry, close by the shore, are vestiges of a
monastery, founded about the year 1330, by one of
the lairds of Dundas, for Carmelite friars. Farther
west, upon a high sea-bank, there were 90 years ago,
interesting ruins, consisting of a large carved window,
a square pillar, and a considerable quantity of hewn
stones, probably the remains of a Roman specula-
torium. Here were found silver medals of Marcus
Antoninus, with a Victory on the reverse. But
greatly the most interesting antiquity is the parish
church ; which, from the Saxon, or mixedly Greek
and Gothic style of its architecture, seems to be 700
or 800 years old. The church of Warthwick, in
England, near Carlisle, built before the times of
William the Conquerer, strikingly resembles it, but
is greatly inferior in richness and elaboration of em-
bellishment. William Wilkie, D.D., the author of
' The Epigoniad,' and professor of natural philosophy
at St. Andrews, was a native of Dalmeny. Popula-
tion of the parish, in 1801, 765; in 1831, 1,291.
Houses 217. Assessed property, in 1815, .£13,745
Dalmeny is in the presbytery of Linlithgow, and synod
of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patrons, the Earl of
Roseberry and the Earl of Hopetoun. Stipend,
£264 2s. Id. ; glebe, 5i acres. Unappropriated
teinds, £45 10s. lid. Schoolmaster's salary £34
4s. 4£d., with about £65 other emoluments. There
are 2 schools nonparochial, — one of them a board-
ing-school, kept by the minister of Queensferry.
The church of Dalmeny was formerly a vicarage of
the monks of Jedburgh ; and had several altars with
distinct and appropriate revenues. The detached
portion of the parish is called Auldcathie, and, pre-
vious to the Reformation, was a separate parish.
Its church was of small value, and has entirely dis-
appeared. In 1636, the territory co-extensive with
the burghal limits of South Queensferry, was de-
tached from Dalmeny, and constituted a separate
parish. An ancient chapel stood in this territory,
built by Dundas of Dundas, the ruins of which might
recently have been traced by antiquarian search.
DALMULLIN, in the district of Kyle, Ayrshire.
Here was a monastery of Gilbertines, founded by
Walter, Lord-high-steward of Scotland ; but the air
of the country not agreeing with the monks and nuns
— who had been brought from Sixhill, in the county
of Lincoln — they returned into England, whereupon
all their rents were disponed by the said Walter to
the monastery of Paisley, and the buildings went to
decay. Walter also founded here a convent of Black
or Benedictine nuns.
DALNACARDOCH, a stage inn in the parish of
Blair- Athole, Perthshire, on the Great Highland
road from Edinburgh to Inverness, 86 miles from
Edinburgh, and 70 from Inverness.
DALNOTTER. See Kilpatrick.
DALPATRICK. See Dalserp.
DALQUHARRAN. See The Girvan.
DALQUHURN. See Cardross.
DALRIADS, a name given to the Scoto-Irish, a
branch of the great Celtic family, who are generally
supposed to have found their way into Ireland from
the western shores of North Britain, and to have
established themselves at a very early period in the
Irish Ulladh, the Ulster of modern times. They
appear to have been divided into two tribes or clans,
the most powerful of which was called Cruithne or
Cruithnich ; a term said to mean eaters of corn or
wheat, from the tribe being addicted to agricultural
pursuits. The quarrels between these two rival
tribes were frequent, and grew to such a height of
violence, about the middle of the third century, as to
call for the interference of Cormac, who then ruled
as king of Ireland ; and it is said that Cairbre-Riada,
the general and cousin of king Cormac, conquered a
territory in the north-east corner of Ireland, of about
thirty miles in extent, possessed by the Cruithne.
This tract was granted by the king to his general,
and was denominated Dal-Riada, or 'the Portion of
Riada,' over which Cairbre and his posterity reigned
for several ages, under the protection of their rela-
tions, the sovereigns of Ireland. [See O'Flaherty's
Ogygia; Ogygia vindicated, pp. 163, 4 and 5. and
O'Connor's Dissertation, pp. 196, 7.] The Cruithne
of Ireland and the Picts of North Britain being of
the same lineage and language, kept up, according
to O'Connor, a constant communication with each
other ; and it seems to be satisfactorily established
that a colony of the Dalriads or Cruithne of Ireland,
had settled at a very early period in Argyle, from
which they were ultimately expelled and driven back
to Ireland about the period of the abdication by the
Romans, of the government of North Britain, in the
year 446. In the year 503, a new colony of the Dal-
riads or Dalriadini, under the direction of three bro-
thers, named Lorn, Fergus, and Angus, the sons of
Ere, the descendant of Cairbre-Riada, settled in the
country of the British Epidii, near the Epidian pro-
montory of Richard and Ptolemy, named afterwards
by the colonists Ceantir or ' Head-land,' now known
by the name of Cantyre or Kintyre. History has
thrown but little light on the causes which led to
this settlement, afterwards so important in the an-
nals of Scotland ; and a question has even been raised
whether it was obtained by force or favour. In
proof of the first supposition it has been observed,
[Chalmers' Caledonia, Vol. i. p. 275,] that the head-
land of Kintyre, which forms a very narrow penin-
sula and runs far into the Deucaledonian sea, towards
the nearest coast of Ireland, being separated by lofty
mountains from the Caledonian continent, was in that
age very thinly peopled by the Cambro-Britons ; that
these descendants of the Epidii were little connected
with the central clans, and still less considered by
the Pictish government, which, perhaps, was not yet
sufficiently refined to be very jealous of its rights, or
to be promptly resentful of its wrongs; and that
Drest-Gurthinmoeh then reigned over the Picts, and
certainly resided at a great distance beyond Drum;
Albin. It is also to be observed, in further corro-
boration of this view, that Lorn, Fergus, and Angus,
brought few followers with them ; and though they
were doubtless joined by subsequent colonists, they
were, for some time, occupied with the necessary
DAL
303
DAL
but uninteresting labours of settlement within their
appropriate districts. Ceantir was the portion of
Fergus, Lorn possessed Lorn to which he gave his
name, and Angus is supposed to have colonized Da,
for it was enjoyed bv Muredach, the son of Angus,
after his decease. Thus these three princes or chiefs
had each his own tribe and territory, according to the
accustomed usage of the Celts ; a system which in-
volved them frequently in the miseries of civil war,
and in questions of disputed succession. There is no
portion of history so obscure or so perplexed as that
of the Scoto-Irish kings and their tribes, from their
first settlement, in the year 503, to their accession to
the Pictish throne in 843. Unfortunately no contem-
poraneous written records appear ever to have exist-
ed of that dark period of our annals, and the efforts
which the Scotch and Irish antiquaries have made to
extricate the truth from the mass of contradictions
in which it lies buried, have rather been displays of
national prejudice than calm researches by reason-
able inquirers. The annals, however, of Tigernach
and of Ulster, and the useful observations of O 'Fla-
herty and O'Connor, along with the brief chronicles
and historical documents, first brought to light by
the industrious limes, in his ' Critical Essay ' — a
work praised even by Pinkerton — have thrown some
glimpses of light on a subject which had long re-
mained in almost total darkness, and been rendered
still more obscure by the fables of our older histo-
rians. Some of the causes which have rendered this
part of our history so perplexed are thus stated by
Chalmers in his Caledonia. "The errors and confu-
sion which have been introduced into the series, and
the history, of the Scottish kings, have chiefly origi-
nated from the following causes: — 1st. The sove-
reignty was not transmitted by the strict line of he-
reditary descent. There were, as we shall see, three
great families, who, as they sprung from the royal
stock, occasionally grew up into the royal stem ; two
of these were descended from Fergus I. by his grand-
sons, Comgal and Gauran ; the third was descended
from Lorn, the brother of Fergus. This circum-
stance naturally produced frequent contests and civil
wars for the sovereignty, which, from those causes,
was sometimes split ; and the representatives of
Fergus and Lorn reigned independently over their
separate territories at the same time. The confusion
which all this had produced can only be cleared up
by tracing, as far as possible, the history of these
different families, and developing the civil contests
which existed among them. 2d. Much perplexity
has been produced by the mistakes and omissions of
the Gaelic bard, who composed the Albanic Duan,
particularly in the latter part of the series, where
he has, erroneously, introduced several supposititious
kings, from the Pictish catalogue. These mistakes
having been adopted by those writers, whose object
was rather to support a system, than to unravel the
history of the Scottish monarchs, have increased,
rather than diminished the confusion." Although
the Dalriads had embraced Christianity before their
arrival in Argyle, they do not appear to have been
anxious to introduce it among the Caledonians or
Picts. Their patron-saint was Ciaran, the son of a
carpenter. He was a prelate of great fame, and
several churches in Argyle and Ayrshire were dedi-
cated to him. The ruins of Kil-keran, a church de-
dicated to Ciaran, may still be seen near Campbellton
in Kintyre. At Kil-kiaran in Hay, Kil-kiaran in
Lismore, and Kil-keran in Carrick, there were cha-
pels dedicated, as the names indicate, to Ciaran.
Whatever were the causes which prevented the Dal-
riads from attempting the conversion of their neigh-
bours, they were destined at no distant period from
the era of the Dalriadic settlement, to receive the
blessings of the true religion, from the teaching of
St. Columba, a monk of high family descent, and
cousin of Scoto-Irish kings. See Icolmkill.
DALRIE. See Killin.
DALRUADHAIN. See Campbellton.
DALRULZEOX. See Captjth.
DALEY,* a parish near the centre of the district
of Cunningham, Ayrshire. It is bounded on the
north and north-east by Kilbirnie ; on the east by
Beith; on the south by Kilwinning; on the south-
west by Ardrossan ; on the west by West Kilbride ;
and on the north-west by Largs. Its extreme length,
from north to south, is about 10 miles; and its
breadth varies from li to 9. It is narrowest in the
middle ; is nearly dissevered toward the north by the
parish of Largs; sends out an arm 3 miles northward
from its main body; and is, in consequence, of ex-
tremely irregular outline. The surface consists prin-
cipally of four vales, with their intervening and over-
shadowing uplands. The principal vale stretches
south-westward along its eastern division, and varies
from a mile to i a mile in breadth. This vale is
watered by the meanderings of the river Garnock,
and abounds in fertility and the beauties of agricul-
tural landscape. The other parts of the parish,
though well-watered with the Rye, the Gaaf, and
other streams flowing south-eastward and falling
into the Garnock, are in general hilly, and in some
parts, especially toward the north, almost mountain-
ous. Bedland-hill, between the Gaaf and the Eye,
rises 946 feet ; and Carwinning-hill, to the eastward
of the Eye, rises 634 above the level of the sea. At
Auchinskich, 2 miles from the village, in a romantic
and sylvan dell, is a natural cave, 183 feet in length,
and from 5 to 12 in breadth and height, stretching
away into the bowels of a precipitous limestone crag,
and ceiled and panelled with calcareous incrusta-
tions which give it the appearance of Gothic arched
work. Coal, at a comparatively inconsiderable depth,
is, in three places, worked from seams of from 2£to 5
feet thick. Limestone abounds in strata of unusual
thickness, and in general imbosoms numerous petri-
factions. Iron-stone frequently occurs. Agates
have been found in the Rye. Li the holm-lands of
the parish the soil is a deep alluvial loam; along the
base of the hills it is light and dry; in some districts
the soil is clayey and retentive; and in others it is
reclaimed and cultivated moss. The parish is inter-
sected by the Glasgow and Ayr railway, and is in other
respects well-provided with means of communica-
tion. On the summit of Carwinning-hill are vestiges
of an ancient fortification, two acres in area, and
formed of three concentric circular walls. Near the
end of the village is a mound called Courthill, — one
of those moats, so common in Scotland, on which
justice was administered. Urns and other antiqui-
ties have, in various localities, been dug up. In
this parish the insurrection of 1666 broke out against
the Privy council's measures for the erection of epis-
copacy. Dairy was the birth-place of Sir Bryce
Blair, who resisted the usurpation of Edward I.,
and the home of Captain Thomas Crawford, who
captured Dumbarton castle in the reign of Mary
The village of Dairy is beautifully situated on a
rising ground on the right bank of the Garnock, im-
mediately below the confluence of the Rye with that
river, and not far above the confluence of the Gaaf.
It commands an extensive view to the south and the
* Chalmers derives this name — which was formerly written
Dalrye — from ihe Gaelic Dal, ' a valley,' and Bye, the name of
oae of the streams by which the parish is intersected. But the
writer in the New Statistical Account prefers a derivation from
Dal and High, ' a king,' making the name mean ' the King's val-
ley ;' and he observes that a part of the site of the village is
still called Crottanry, which he supposes to be a corruption of
Croft an High, ' the Croft of the king.'
304
DALRY.
north-east ; and, owing to the peculiar nature of its
site, and the liability to inundation of the mountain
streams by which its environs on three sides are
washed, it has sometimes the appearance of lifting its
head from a lake, and being seated on an island. It is
16 miles from Paisley, 14 from Kilmarnock, 5 from
Beith, and 9 from Saltcoats. Of no higher origin
than the beginning of the 17th century, and long
existing as a mere hamlet, it has eventually attained
considerable prosperity, and at present contains a pop-
ulation of upwards of 2,000. There are five streets
three of which converge, and form a sort of square or
open area near the centre of the town. The streets
indicate the want of police, yet enjoy the luxury of
being lighted up at night with gas. The principal
manufacture is weaving, which employs about 500
individuals. Nearly 50 persons are employed also in
a woollen carding and spinning-mill. Here are the
parish-church, two dissenting churches, three schools,
and a number of inns and other appurtenances of
village importance. There are 6 annual fairs, the
chief of which is held on the last day of July. The
town as well as its vicinity will probably now rise
rapidly in prosperity, from its being touched by the
Glasgow and Ayr railway. Population of the town
and parish, in 1801, 2,815; in 1831, 3,739. Houses
503. Assessed property, in 1815, £13,141 Dairy
is in the presbytery of Irvine, and synod of Glasgow
and Ayr. Patron, Blair of Blair. Stipend £231
10s. 6d. ; glebe £24. Unappropriated teinds £575
9s. lOd. The parish-church was built in 1771. Sit-
tings 941. Before the Reformation the church be-
longed to the monastery of Kilwinning, and was
served by a vicar. On a rising ground to the east
of the Garnock, about a mile from the present vil-
lage, formerly stood a chapel, vestiges of which have
not long ago disappeared. At a greater distance
from the village are still some ruins of another an-
cient chapel One of the meeting-houses in the
village belongs to the United Secession, and the
other to the body of Original Burghers, part of whom
recently became reunited to the Established church.
Sittings in the former 508; in the latter 282. Sti-
pend of the former £110; of the latter £70. Ac-
cording to a survey made in 1835, there were 2,762
in connection with the Establishment, and 927 dis-
senters within the parish There are in the parish
4 schools, 3 of which are nonparochial. Parish-
schoolmaster's salary £32 15s. 9d., with £65 school-
fees.
DALRY, a parish in the north-east verge of
Kirkcudbrightshire ; bounded on the north by Ayr-
shire and Dumfries-shire ; on the east by Dumfries-
shire; on the south-east by Balmaclellan ; on the
south-west and west by Kells; and on the north-
west by Carsphairn. It is of the form of a triangle,
having a small parallelogram resting on its northern
angle, and presenting its apex, or greatest angle, to
the east. Its greatest length, from the confluence
of Grapel burn with Ken water on the south, to a
point north- eastward of Black-Larg-hill on the north,
is 14 miles ; and its greatest breadth, from the con-
fluence of Deugh water and Ken water on the west,
to the point where Cairn water leaves it on the east,
is H miles. Over a distance of 15 miles, following
the sinuosities of the stream, Ken water forms its
north-western, western, and south-western boun-
dary; and over the southern half of that distance it
flows through a fine vale, richly tufted with natural
woods. But even behind this vale, as well as through
all the other districts, the parish is almost entirely
pastoral and hilly. Toward the north, and along
the eastern boundary, it is very mountainous; and
it terminates northward in the towering eminence of
Black Larg, which rises 2,890 feet above the level
of the sea. Grapel burn, which flows south-west-
ward into Ken water, and Cairn water, which flows
north-eastward into Dumfries-shire, along with an
intermediate boundary-line of only about a mile,
divide the parish from Balmaclellan, or form one of
the sides of its triangle. Numerous mountain-brooks
rise in the interior ; a few of which flow southward
into Capel burn, and the most westward into Ken
water. Lochinvar, near the centre of the southern
division, is a sheet of water little less than 3 miles
in'circumference ; and, as well as the smaller lakes,
Boston, Knocksting, and Knockman, contains ex-
cellent trout, and is much frequented by fishers.
Pike, trout, and salmon abound in the Ken. The
salmon, however, except in high floods, cannot ascend
higher than to a linn or cascade at Earlston, and they
there often excite observation by repeated and ex-
hausting, though generally vain leaps, to surmount
the water-spouts which repel their further progress.
The parish is traversed by only three roads ; one along
its western limit, down the vale of the Ken ; another,
along its south-western limit, chiefly on the banks
of the Capel and the Cairn; and one, among the
mountain-gorges from east to west, about midway
between the northern and the southern extremities.
In Lochinvar are the remains of an ancient fortified
castle which belonged to the Gordons, formerly
knights of Lochinvar, and recently viscounts of Ken-
mure. There are several moats, cairns, and curious
places of defence. In the farm of Altrye, near the
top of a hill, whence a distant view is commanded
through the mountain-passes, is an artificial trench
capable of accommodating 100 persons, reported to
have been a hiding-place of the persecuted Cove-
nanters, and — in derivation from the epithet by which
that suffering people were most commonly known — ■
bearing the designation of the Whighole. Dairy, in
common with the contiguous mountain-districts, was
the scene of not a few eventful occurrences under
the persecutions of the Stuarts. In the churchyard
of Dairy one gravestone covers the dust of Major
Stewart, of Ardoch, and of John Grierson, who
were shot in 1684, by Graham of Claverhouse, and
after being buried in the family-cemetery belonging
to Ardoch, were dug up, by Graham's orders, and
finally reinterred in the north-west corner of the
churchyard of Dairy The village of Dairy is beau-
tifully situated on a bend of the Ken, near the
southern angle of the parish. The houses, though
irregularly scattered over a considerable space of
ground, produce a fine effect to the eye. The little
crofts lying around them are all carefully cultivated ;
and the gardens are neatly surrounded with hedges,
and sheltered by rows of trees. Here are the parish-
church, and an United Secession meeting-house.
Population of the parish, in 1801, 832; in 1831,
1,246. Houses 211. Assessed property, in 1815,
£5,889 Dairy is in the presbytery of Kirkcud-
bright, and synod of Galloway. Patron, Forbes of
Callander. Stipend £217 12s. 2d. ; glebe £20.
Unappropriated teinds £180 4s. 6d. The church
having formerly been dedicated to St. John the Bap-
tist, the village, till recently, was called St. John's
clachan, and a large stone, shown to strangers as an
object of curiosity, is called St. John's chair. Before
the establishment of Carsphairn parish in 1640, Dairy
comprehended the mountainous and extensive tract
between the Ken and the Deugh, and it anciently
had several chapels, all subordinate to the mother or
parochial church. During episcopal times the par-
son was a member of the chapter of Galloway. The
present church was built in 1832 ; sittings 700.
The United Secession church was built in 1826 ;
sittings 200. Stipend £70. There are 3 schools ;
1 parochial, 1 endowed, and 1 supported wholly by
DAL
30<j
DAL
the parishioners. Parochial schoolmaster's salary
£25 13s. 3£d., with school-fees. The endowed
school has 2 masters, whose combined salaries amount
to £15. There is a mortified fund of £ 1,000 for a
free-school.
DALRY (Wester), a hamlet, once a populous
village, about a mile west from Edinburgh, on the
Lanark road. The hamlet of Easter Dairy is now
diminished to two or three cottages.
DALRYMPLE,* a parish along the southern
verge of the district of Kyle, Ayrshire. It is
bounded on the north by Ayr and Coylton ; on the
east by Dalmellington ; on the south by Straiton
and Kirkmichael ; and on the west by Maybole. It
is of an oblong figure ; measuring from east to west
7 miles; having an average breadth of 2 miles, and
containing an area of about 12 square miles. Nearly
its whole surface rolls or undulates in numerous
cultivated knolls, or little moundish hills, around
most of which is hung out the extensive, varied, and
enchanting panorama of the frith of Clyde and the
lowlands south of Benlomond and the Grampians.
One of the elevations commands a view of even the
mist-vailed coast of Ireland. Along the whole
southern and western boundary the Doon moves
amidst alternations of bold sylvan banks and rich
fertile haughs, dividing the parish from Carrick, and
fringing its verge in the softest forms of beauty.
Four lakes — Martinham, Kerse, Snipe, and Linds-
ton — enrich the soil and the scenery, and abound in
pike, perch, eel, and waterfowls. Martinham, the
largest, only protrudes into the northern division of
the parish, and belongs mainly to Coylston : it is
about li mile in length, and a furlong in breadth,
and has its surplus waters carried off south-west-
ward by a rivulet to the Doon. The soil is, on a
few of the eminences, a barren clay; on others, a
loamy clay ; and around the beds of the streams and
lakes, a sandy, gravelly, or alluvial loam. Planta-
tions of almost all varieties cultivated in Scotland
beautify hill and vale. At Skeldon, on the Doon,
are six oaks believed to be 300 years old. The an-
cient Roman road, connecting the friths of Solway
and Clyde, traversed Dalrymple from east to west.
On a rising ground at the western boundary are ves-
tiges of three small circular British forts. In various
localities ancient coins and memorials of Roman
civilization have been found. More than half of the
parish belongs to the Marquis of Ailsa. The barony
of Dalrymple, however, was held in ancient times
by a family to whom it gave name. During the
reign of David II. it was divided between two Dal-
rymples, who probably were the descendants of a
common progenitor. In the reign of Robert II. the
whole barony was acquired by John Kennedy of
Dunure ; and it continued to belong to his descend-
ants till the reign of Charles II. The Dalrymples,
or ancient proprietors and their off-shoots, figure
largely in history as lawyers, as statesmen, and as
warriors. The village of Dalrymple is beautifully
situated in a vale on the Doon, and has a neat and
smiling appearance which attracts and pleases a
tourist. In 1811 it contained a population of up-
wards of 200. Population of the parish, in 1801,
514; in 1831, 933. Houses 161. Assessed pro-
perty, in 1815, ±"5,343 Dalrymple is in the pres-
bytery of Ayr, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend £229 17s. 2d.; glebe
.£12 10s. 4d. The parish-church, situated near the
village, at the south-west angle of the parish, was
built in 1 764. A short period before the Reforma-
tion the parish was attached as a prebend to the
* Tile name is derived from Gaelic words which signify ' tiie
Vale of the crooked pool,' and it exactly describes the site of the
Tillage.
chapel-royal of Stirling, and was served by a curate.
Parish schoolmaster's salary £30, with £29 other
emoluments. There is a school not parochial.
DALSERF, a parish on the west bank of the
Clyde, in the middle ward of Lanarkshire. It is
bounded on the north and north-west by the parish
of Hamilton; on the west and south-west by the
Avon and the Calder, which separate it from the
parish of Stonehouse ; on the south and south-east
by Lesmahagow ; and on the north and north-east
by the river Clyde, by which it is divided from the
parishes of Carluke and Cambusnethan. Its greatest
length is about 6^ miles, and its greatest breadth 4J ;
but in certain parts of the parish the breadth does
not exceed 2 or 3 miles. It contains upwards of
5,725 Scots acres, or about 7,219 imperial acres.
The parish is intersected by three great lines of
road: viz., the road from Glasgow to Carlisle, the
road from Glasgow to Lanark by the Clyde, and
the new road from Edinburgh to Ayr, which
crosses the river at Garion bridge. The soil of
the parish is generally fertile and well-cultivated.
There are valleys of different breadths between the
Clyde, and the banks on each side of the river, and
from these narrow plains the banks rise often with
a bold and abrupt ascent, and occasionally precipi-
tous hollows are to be met with not devoid of a ro-
mantic character. The village of Dalserf is con-
sidered to be situated 120 feet above the level of
the sea ; and the highest land in the parish has been
computed at 400 feet in elevation. Fruit cultivation
is of great antiquity in the district of which Dalserf
forms a part, and it lies almost in the very centre of
the luxuriant range of the Clydesdale orchards.
From failing crops, however, and the facilities now
afforded for the importation of fruit from England,
Ireland, and the continents of Europe and America,
the local cultivation has not been so remunerative as
it used to be, and orchard-planting is not, therefore,
on the increase. See Clydesdale. Coal abounds
in every part of the parish ; and there are numerous
collieries in full operation, the produce of which is
disposed of on moderate terms to the adjoining dis-
tricts. Ironstone is known to abound on the Avon,
but it has not yet been worked ; and freestone
quarries are in full activity on the Clyde, from which
excellent blocks may be cut of any size. There are
several villages in the parish : viz. Larkhall [which
see,] Pleasance, Millheugh, Rosebank, and Dalserf.
The majority of the population is employed in weav-
ing, or mining and quarrying. Population, in 1801,
1,660; in 1831, 2,680; but of later years it has
greatly increased. Houses, in 1831, 423. Assessed
property, in 1815, £5,355 This parish is in the
presbytery of Hamilton, and synod of Glasgow and
Ayr. Patron, the Duke of Hamilton. Stipend £264
12s. 6d. ; glebe £37 10s. Unappropriated teinds £63
12s. 4d. The parish-church was built in 1655, but
has been three times repaired since, and now affords
accommodation for 550 sitters. A new church has
been built at Larkhall, to which a parish, quoad sacra,
has been allocated There is also at Larkhall a Re-
lief church, with 400 sittings, and an Independent
congregation There are two parochial schools, one
principal and a district one ; the salary of the princi-
pal master is £34 4s. 44d., with £12 of school-fees,
and £25 of other emoluments. The other parochial
schoolmaster has a salary of £5, with a house, school-
room, and garden. There are various private schools
in the parish Dalserf parish was in early times a
chapelry, which belonged to the ancient parish of
Cadzow (now Hamilton). It was designated the
chapelry of Machan, and the district was called Ma-
ehanshire. Upon the accession of Robert the Bruce
to the throne of Scotland, the territory of Machan
U
DAL
/
306
DAL
was forfeited by Sir John Cumyn, and was granted
by Bruce to Walter, the son of Gilbert, the prede-
cessor of the Hamilton family. It was made a ba-
rony in the 14th century ; and was afterwards called
the barony of Machan. The church of Cadzow with
its chapel of Machan was constituted a prebend of
the cathedral church of Glasgow, and formed the
benefice of the dean. The chapelry of Machan was
subsequently estabUshed as a separate parish; but
the precise time when this took place has not been
ascertained. A parish-church having been built at
the village of Dalserf, the same name was given to
the parish, probably about the period of the Refor-
mation. For a lengthened series of years, from the
time of Robert the Bruce downward, the most of the
property in this parish belonged to the Hamiltons,
and its major part still belongs to the ducal house or
cadets from it. The ancient residences of the Ham-
iltons of Dalserf, the Hamiltons of Raplock, and the
Hamiltons of Broomholm, have now almost, or alto-
gether, disappeared. As vassals of the Hamilton
family, many of the gentlemen of this parish were
deeply involved in the troublous scenes which alike
distinguished and disturbed Scotland, previous to the
junction of the crowns under James VI. Gavin
Hamilton of Raplock, and commendator of Kilwin-
ning, was present at the battle of Langside, in the
army of the Queen; he was also one of Mary's
commissioners at York in 1570, and was included
in the treaty of Perth of 1572. John Hamilton of
Broomhill was wounded, and taken prisoner in the
same battle ; and about two years afterwards, his
house of Broomholm was burned down by Sir
William Drury, the governor of Berwick.
DALSWINTON, a village in the parish of
Kirkmahoe ; 4J miles north of Dumfries. The
ancient castle of Dalswinton, which was long the
chief seat of the family of Cumming, having fallen
to decay, an elegant and commodious mansion was
erected on its site by Patrick Miller, Esq., the well-
known steam-boat projector.
DALTON,* a parish in the southern part of the
district of Annandale, Dumfries-shire. It is bounded
on the north by Lochmaben and Dryfesdale ; on the
east by St. Mungo and Cummertrees ; on the south
by Ruth well; and on the west by Mousewald and
Lochmaben. It is, on the whole, a parallelogram,
stretching from north-west to south-east ; but has a
deep, though narrow indentation near the middle of
its northern side, and thence, to its north-eastern
angle, considerably protrudes. Its greatest length
is nearly 6 miles, and its average breadth about 2i ;
and it contains an area of nearly 11 square miles.
The surface in the north-western division is slightly
hilly, and has two elevations, — Holmains and Alma-
gill, rising 500 feet above sea-level ; but in the other
parts of the parish it is flat. The Pow, or Cummer-
trees Pow, rises in the uplands, and traverses the par-
ish in a direction east of south, leaving it near Gilbrae.
The northern boundary is formed for about 3 miles
by the river Annan, which here abounds in salmon,
grilse, sea-trout, and the fish — believed to be peculiar
to the Solway rivers — called herling. The Annan is
supposed, at a remote period, to have flowed through
this parish, entering it at Dormont, where it at pre-
sent begins to form its boundary, and pursuing its
way past Dalton church, till it fell into what is now
the channel or bed of the Pow. Along this course
are extensive alluvial deposits, and ridges of sand
and gravel, which appear to have been thrown out
by a flood of waters. During a swell the Annan still
* Dal.tun, in the Anglo-Saxon language, means 'the dwelling
in the Dale ;' and seems as a name to have been applied to the
two villageH around the ancient parish-churclics, from their
topographical situation.
breaks over its bank at Dormont, lays all the flat
grounds along its supposed ancient road under inun-
dation, and opens a communication with the Pow.
In the uplands the soil is sand and gravel; along the
banks of the Annan it is a light alluvial loam ; along
the ancient course of that river it is chiefly meadow
or reclaimed bog ; and, in some parts of the interior,
it is a cold clay on a till bottom. On Almagill hil;
is a fine old circular camp, commanding a view along
nearly the whole vale of the Annan, the ancient pos-
session of the royal family of Bruce. Dormont-
house, on the Annan, and Rammerscales near the
north-east angle of the parish, are fine modern man-
sions. The village or hamlet of Dalton, situated near
the centre of the parish, is rural and unimportant.
Population of the parish, in 1801, 691 ; in 1831, 730.
Houses 123. Assessed property, in 1815, ±'5,438
Dalton is in the presbytery of Lochmaben, and synod
of Dumfries. Patron, Macrae of Holmains. Stipend
£171 12s. lid.; glebe £10. Unappropriated teinds
±'59 Is. lOd. The parish-church was built in 1704.
Sittings about 300. The present parish comprehends
the old parishes of Meikle Dalton and Little Dalton,
which were united immediately after the Reforma-
tion. In 1609 they were both united to Mouse wald;
but in 1633 were disjoined from it, and erected into
their present form. The church of Little Dalton
was demolished, and that of Mickle Dalton made the
united parochial church. Mickle Dalton, the prede-
cessor of the modern hamlet, was of old the seat of
the baronial courts. There are two schools, one of
them not parochial. Parish-schoolmaster's salary
£34 4s. 4d., with £20 school-fees.
DALVADDY. See Campeellton.
DAL WHAT WATER, a smaU stream in the
north-west of Dumfries-shire. It rises between
Black hill and Bunbrack hill, in the boundary moun-
tain ridge of the county, and flows in a south-easterly
direction along the parish of Glencairn, forming, in
the lower part of its course, a beautiful, well- wooded
dale, amidst general scenery, upland, heathy, and
bleak. Having flowed | of a mile past Minnyhive,
it forms a confluence with the recently united waters
of Castlefairn and Craigdarroch, and along with them
forms, or is thence called, the Cairn. Its entire course
is about 9 miles.
DAL WHIN NIE, a stage-inn in Badenoch, Inver-
ness-shire, on the Great Highland road to Inverness ;
99^ miles from Edinburgh, and 56| from Inverness.
It was built by Government.
DALZIEL, a parish in the middle ward of Lan-
arkshire. It is bounded on the east by the parish of
Cambusnethan ; on the west by the parish of Hamil-
ton and the river Calder ; on the south by the parish
of Hamilton and the river Clyde ; and on the north
by the river Calder and the parish of Hamilton. It
is about 4 miles in length and 3 in breadth, and eon-
tains 2,283 Scotch acres. The figure of the parish
is extremely irregular, in consequence of a part of it
lying on the south of the Clyde, and two parts of the
parish of Hamilton being indented into the territory
of Dalziel. In the old Statistical Account it is stated,
" There is a tradition that this part was disjoined
from the parish of Dalziel on account of the misde-
meanors of a curate, who was then the incumbent.
Why it was not restored to his successor is not
known. It would have been convenient that it had
been so ; for the living is very small." The land of
the parish is low, and the surface even and regular,
excepting in the few parts where it is slightly varied
by rising grounds. It rises very gently from the
Clyde and Calder, and there is little of it more than
150 feet above the level of the sea. The soil of the
parish is mostly a heavy clay, which is under the
usual rotation of cropping. There are many thriving
DAM
307
DAN
plantations in the district, and no inconsiderable
portion of it on the banks of Clyde is formed into
orchard-grounds, the produce of which in point of
quality has not been surpassed by that of any of the
adjacent fruit-growing parishes. See Clydesdale.
Coal abounds in the parish, but it is not extensively
worked. There is also clay-slate, and some excel-
lent flag-stone ; the latter is principally worked at
Craigneuk quarry, and is frequently carried for use
to a considerable distance. Hamilton is the nearest
town, and is situated about a mile distant. The
road from Glasgow to Lanark by Carluke passes
through the parish for about 4 miles, and that from
Hamilton to Edinburgh about 1. The Wishaw and
Coltness railway — which will extend from the sta-
tion of the Monkland and Kirkintilloch railway, in
the parish of Old Monkland, to the estates of
Wishaw, Coltness, and Allanton, which are sup-
posed to contain some of the most valuable coal-
fields in Scotland — will, when completed, pass
through the parish of Dalziel for a considerable
distance — There are three villages in the parish,
viz., Motherwell — which contains about the half
of the population — Windmill-hill, and Craigneuk :
see Motherwell. The parish of Dalziel is un-
derstood to have received its name from the title
of the old parish-church, which stood near the
Clyde ; but the ancient orthography is Dalyell, and
in all probability the z has crept in as a corruption
of the ietter ;/ in the old Scottish writings. Popu-
lation, in 1801, Gil; in 1831, 1,180. Houses 200.
Assessed property £2,751 This parish is in the
presbytery of Hamilton, and synod of Glasgow and
Ayr. Patron, Hamilton of Dalziel. Stipend £'155
lis. 3d.; glebe .£60. The church is a substantial
building in a convenient part of the parish, erected
in 1798. There is no dissenting place of worship
in the parish, although a large number of Dissenters
reside in it. The salary of the parochial school-
master is £34 4s. 4Jd. per annum, with £18 of
school-fees, and £4 15s. of other annual emolu-
ments. The church of Dalziel, with its tithes,
was granted to the monks and abbots of Paisley
in the 12th century, and it was afterwards con-
veyed to the dean and chapter of Glasgow, whose
common property it continued till the Reformation.
Subsequent to this event the patronage and tithes
of the parish were given by Queen Mary to the
college of Glasgow, and they remained in their pos-
session in 1702, when Hamilton of Wishaw wrote
his account of Lanarkshire, but afterwards they came
into the family of Hamilton of Dalziel, by whom
they are now retained The most ancient family
connected with this parish were the Dalziels, who
afterwards became Earls of Carnwath; but after
various transferences, though principally to members
of the same family, the larger portion of the Dalziel
estate was sold in 1647 by the Earl of Carnwath
to Hamilton of Boggs, whose descendant is still in
possession. When the lands of Bothwell-haugh
were sold by General Hamilton — the grandfather of
the present proprietor of Dalziel — to the Duke of
Hamilton, he presented his Grace with the gun
with which James Hamilton of Bothwell-haugh shot
the Regent Murray in Linlithgow, and in whose fa-
mily it had been retained as a relic of antiquity.
This parish was celebrated as having been intersected
from east to west by the principal branch of the
Great western Roman road, or Watling-street, as it
has been called. The present road from Glasgow
to Lanark by Carluke, has been for a considerable
way formed upon it, and the march of recent im-
provement has almost entirely effaced every trace
of this great pathway of the Romans, although but
a few years have passed away since it was plainly
discernible, and even the cinders of the Roman forges
remained untouched. At the north-west boundary
of the parish there is a bridge of a single span over
the Calder, evidently of great antiquity, and which
is usually understood to have been constructed by
the Romans at the time they possessed this part of
the country. Upon a steep bank of the Calder, near
this bridge, there were formerly situated the remains
of a pretorium or Roman encampment, but here also
the hand of improvement has been busy in obli-
terating those landmarks which for more than a
thousand years had existed to mark the early location
of the conquerors of the world. In another part,
near the centre of the parish, and upon a bank over-
looking the Clyde, was situated a second Roman
encampment, or outpost. To mark the spot, one
of the predecessors of the present proprietor built a
little temple or summer-house, cut terrace-walks
along the bank, and planted fruit and forest trees in
tasteful positions, — altogether rendering it a fairy
spot, which embraces one of the sweetest views in
Clydesdale. The mansion-house of Dalziel is situ-
ated upon the burn or brook of that name, and in
one of the most beautiful parts of the glen through
which it meanders. It was built by Sir. Hamilton
of Boggs in 1649, two years after the estate came
into his possession, and it is in verity a beautiful
specimen of an old baronial residence. Hamilton
of Wishaw calls it " a great and substantial house."
Attached to it is an old tower or peel-house, the
age of which is not known, but it is evidently of
great antiquity. It is 50 feet in height, and the walls
are 8 feet in thickness, having recesses which were
wont to be used as sleeping-places. It is of limited
extent. In an apartment used as a kitchen in this
peel is suspended from the roof a lustre composed
of large stag horns, connected with iron, with metal
sockets for the candles.
DAMSA, or Damsay, one of the Orkneys,
constituting part of the parish of Firth. This is a
beautiful little island, scarcely a mile in circumfer-
ence, in the bosom of the bay of Firth. From the
singular beauty of its appearance, it has sometimes
been styled the Tempe of the islands. It formerly
contained a castle reputed to be of great strength.
There was also a church here, said to have been de-
dicated to the Virgin Mary, by whose influence — ac-
cording to the credulity of ancient times — many
wonders were here performed. This fabric, with
all its miracles, has almost sunk into oblivion ; and
the island is now applied to the pasturing of a few
hundreds of sheep.
DANESHALT— corrupted Dunshelt— a small
village in the parish of Auchtermuchty, Fifeshire ;
about a mile south of Auchtermuchty, and 2^ north
of Falkland. The road to Falkland, Kirkaldy, and
Kinghorn, lies through this village, which is sup-
posed to be the place where the Danes first halted
after their discomfiture on Falkland moor.
DANIEL-TOWN, a village in the parish of Mel-
rose. See Melrose.
DANSKINE, an inn in the parish of Garvald; 5k
miles south-east by south of Haddington, on the road
to Dunse. There is a small loch here.
DARNAWAY CASTLE, in the parish of Dyke in
Elginshire, the ancient seat of the Earls of Moray —
A modern mansion was built here about 30 years ago.
It is nobly elevated, with great range and variety of
prospect; and adjoining to it is retained, of the old
castle, a princely hall, built by Earl Randolph, Regent
of Scotland during the minority of David Bruce. Its
length is 89 feet, and its breadth 35 feet ; the arched
oaken roof is superb, and somewhat resembles that of
the Parliament-house of Edinburgh. Mary, Queen
of Scots, held her court here in 1564. Among the
DAR
308
DEA
pictures is one of ' The Fair,' or ' Bonny Earl of
Murray,' as he is commonly called, who was mur-
dered at Donibristle. See Dalgety. There is also a
portrait of Queen Mary, disguised, by way of a frolic,
in boy's clothes, — in long scarlet stockings, black
velvet coat, black kilt, white sleeves, and a huge ruff.
DARNICK. See Dernock.
DARNLEY. See Eastwood.
DARUEL (The), a stream in the district of
Cowal, Argyleshire, which has its rise at the hill of
Barnish, and, after a course of some miles through
Glendaruel, falls into the head of Loch Striven, op-
posite the north end of Bute.
DARVAL. See Derval.
DAVAR ISLE. See Campbellton.
DAVEN (Loch), a small sheet of water in the
parish of Logie-Coldstone in Aberdeenshire. It is
situated on the south-western border of the parish, I
and is about 2J miles in circumference. It is formed
by three rivulets, two of which partly bound the
parish, and a third, from its north-western extremity
passes through it to the north-east of Broom-hill,
where it forms another still smaller loch than the
Daven, before falling into the latter. It abounds
with pike, some of them of a very large size.
DAVID'S (St.), a village in the parish of Dalgety,
on the north coast of the Firth of Forth, 2 miles easf
of In verkeithing, and the same distance west of Aber-
dour. It carries on a considerable manufacture ot
salt, and exports an immense quantity of coal. See
Dalgety.
DAVIOT — commonly pronounced David — a
parish in the district of Garioch, Aberdeenshire, 19
miles north-west from Aberdeen. It is bounded on
the north by Fy vie parish ; on the east by Fy vie, Old
Meldrum, and Bourtrie parishes ; on the south and
south-east by part of Chapel of Garioch parish ; and
on the north-east by Ryne parish. Its boundaries
are principally natural, being defined by the courses
of rivulets, the largest one of which, on the eastern
side, is joined by various tributaries from the neigh-
bouring parishes, and runs southwards to the river
Urie, which is divided from Daviot by its north-
eastern bank in Chapel of Garioch. The form of
Daviot is irregular, — it tapers to a point both to-
wards the north and south. It extends to about 3£
miles in length and 2 in breadth, exclusive of its
quoad sacra limits. Assessed property, in 1815,
il,974. The soil is various, consisting partly of
strong clay, partly of rich loam, but in general fer-
tile. Its exposure is chiefly to the south and south-
east, and the land is undulating with few hills.
About 500 acres were first enclosed in 1792, and a
considerable portion of the whole is now enclosed
and well-cultivated. A distillery has long existed in
the parish. The principal fuel is peat from the
moss and turf from the muir. The village of Daviot
stands nearly in the centre of the parish. Fingask
and Mounie stand on the eastern side, Glack on the
western, and Lethenty at the southern extremity.
Population, in 1801, 1,974; in 1831, 691. Houses,
in 1831, 131. There are two Druidical temples
here, one of which makes part of the churchyard
This parish was formerly a parsonage in the diocese
of Aberdeen, to the bishop of which it was given as
an alms-gift by Malcolm Canmore. It is now in the
presbytery of Garioch, and synod of Aberdeen.
Several lands in the parishes of Chapel aiid Fyvie
were, towards the end ot last century, annexed to it,
quoad sacra, by act of Assembly ; so that the whole
under the minister's charge is nearly 5 miles in length
and 4 in breadth. Stipend£159 0s. 9d. ; glebe£l2.
Patron, the Crown. The church is situated at the
village of Daviot. Schoolmaster's salaf-y £30, with
£20 of fees.
DAVIOT, a parish chiefly in the county of Inver-
ness, but partly in that of Nairn. It was, in 1618,
united to Dunlichty, and forms a parochial district of
great extent, being about 23 miles in length on both
sides of the Nairn, its breadth varying from 2 to 4
miles. It lies nearly due east and west ; and is
bounded on the north by Croy ; on the east by Moy ;
on the south by Kingussie : and on the west by Dur-
ris. The appearance of the district is wild and ro-
mantic in the highest degree. In the low grounds
there are large tracts of peat-moss, incapable of cul-
tivation, but which seem, in general, well-calculated
for the growth of forest-trees. Among the moun-
tains are several lake*, of which Loch Ruthven,
Loch Clachan, and Loch Dundelchack are the chief,
— all abounding with trout of a delicious flavour.
Limestone has been observed on the banks of the
Nairn ; the vein contains numerous cubical crystal-
lizations, which, when analyzed, have been found to
contain lead. Assessed property, in 1815, £2,604.
Under the auspices of the parliamentary commis-
sioners, an excellent line of road has been made
from near the kirk of Daviot, on the Moy road, a
little south of the water of Nairn, through Strath-
nairn to the bridge of Inverfarikag and Loch Ness,
with a small branch westward near Toredaroch, — a
distance of 19J miles. At the south end this road
extends about half-a-mile from the bridge of Inver-
farikag to Loch Ness side, where a small natural
cove in the rock is improved by a pier for landing
manure and shipping the produce of the country ;
thus furnishing a ready communication with the
Caledonian canal. At the Mains of Daviot were,
some years ago, the ruins of a castle built by the
Earl of Crawford in the beginning of the 15th cen-
tury. It was of great extent, but the stones have
been taken away to build a modern house near its
site. Population, in 1801, 1,818; in 1831, 1,738.
Houses in Inverness-shire 352 ; in Nairnshire 37
This parish, formerly a rectory, is in the presbytery
of Inverness, and synod of Moray. Patrons, the
Crown, and the Earl of Cawdor. Stipend £186
14s. 2d. ; glebe £10. The churches of Daviot and
Dunlichty are 7 miles distant. Service is performed
alternately in them every Sunday.
DAWICK, a suppressed parish in Peebleshire.
Before the Reformation it was a vicarage of the rec-
tory of Stobo. It lay chiefly on the right bank of
the Tweed; but partly also on the left bank. In
1 742, its larger section was incorporated with Drum-
melzier, and its smaller with Stobo. In the north-
east of the present parish of Drummelzier, are still
places called East Dawick and West Dawick, which
occupy the sites of ancient hamlets. The ruins of
Dawick church stood on Scrape Burn, about \ of a
mile south of New Posso.
DEAD RIGGS. See Eccles.
DEAD WATER. See Castletown.
DEAL. See Halkibk.
DEAN (The), formerly a hamlet on the water
of Leith, now a suburb of Edinburgh, remarkable
for its romantic appearance, and its exquisitely beau-
tiful bridge of 4 arches, each 96 feet in span, by
which the road to Queensferry is carried across the
deep ravine through which the water of Leith here
flows, at a height of 106 feet above the rocky bed of
the stream. The total length of this bridge — which
was erected chiefly by the enterprise of one individual
— is 447 feet ; breadth between the parapets 39 feet.
DEAN (The), a deep running river in the county
of Forfar. It takes its rise from the lake of Forfar,
runs south-west, and, receiving the water of Gairie,
near Glammis castle, falls into the Isla about a mile
north of Meigle, after a course of about 12 miles,
In its course through the parishes of Kinnettles and
DEA
309
DEE
Glammis, it runs nearly in the line of the Newtyle
and Forfar railway.
DEAN CASTLE. See Kilmarnock.
DEANSTON. See Kh-madock.
DEE (The), a large river in Aberdeenshire, which
takes its rise in Braemar, in the bosom of the Cairn-
gorm groupe, chiefly from two sources, — the north-
ern of which rises between the ridge of Braeriach on
the west, and Loch Aven on the east, and, running a
course nearly due south through Glen-garrochory for
4 miles, is there joined by another small stream
called the Guisachan, flowing from the west, when
it assumes the name of the Dee. Flowing on in the
same direction through a deep glen for 6 miles fur-
ther, it receives the Geauly or Giouly, its southern
head-branch, at Dubrach. The Geauly has its
source from the base of Cairneilar, whence also issues
the Tarf, a branch of the Tilt, which flows south-
ward to the Tay, and the Feshie, which running
northward, falls into the Spey. After the junction
of the two waters, the Dee becomes a considerable
stream, and bends its course, through a rocky chan-
nel, east-north-east, shortly after which it forms a
cascade, or a series of four small falls, known as the
Linn of Dee, where it flow's through a deep chasm
in mica slate rocks, over which an Alpine wooden
bridge is thrown. A writer in ' Chambers's Journal'
[Vol. ii. pp. 163, 1C4.] has given a very lively and in-
teresting description of this linn, and the course of the
Dee from this point to its well-head, with the inser-
tion of which our readers will be gratified. " The
Linn of Dee you will hardly find to be what you
probably expected — a lofty waterfaU. The fall is in-
deed very insignificant, and it is over a sloping bank,
from which there is no leap ; but in no waterfall, not
even in the princely Foyers, do we behold such a
terrible specimen of the imprisoned power of the
watery element. Here it has got itself entangled in
a complete nest of impenetrable granite rocks, which
alternately confine and enlarge the noble stream,
sometimes allowing its waters to sweep indignantly
round and round some large black basin, then again
compelling them to exhaust their rage in cleaving
their way betwixt two ledges, so near each other,
that it is very easy — and a very common practice
with those who have sound clear heads — to step
across. Here the dead white of the foam contrasts
strongly with the blackness of the turbulent caul-
drons, and the still blacker recesses of the caverns
under the rocks, which an occasional commotion of
the surface more violent than usual sometimes exhi-
bits. It is said by the people in the neighbourhood,
that the body of any living being which finds its way
into the linn, can never be recovered, and — making
allowance for generalities — we can easily imagine that
in most cases they find their way into these abhorred
caverns. We recollect, in the time of a flood, thinking
the Linn of Dee would be a fine sight: we went, and
were rather disappointed. The water had risen above
the narrow broken part of the rocks, and its surface
had a wider channel : it darted betwixt the banks
with the velocity of the lightning, smooth and un-
ruffled. But of what description must have been
the working beneath ! Come along, you will gaze
into those black surgy depths till your eyes are fas-
cinated and your head giddy : you will have oppor-
tunity for the exercise of fortitude elsewhere, for we
are just entering the desert. There are two strange-
looking hovels, a mile or so beyond the linn, with
each its piece of cultivated land about it, to supply
the necessaries of life, unfenced, and unprovided with
any thing to distinguish it from the uncultivated hills
but the freshness of its colour. Gradually what was
something like a road, dies away ; and you are now
compelled to pick your way among the stones, and
through the long heather, occasionally meeting with
one of the small tracks worn by the deer, and used
by such scanty travellers as may pass through that
savage 'wilderness. There is a peculiar effect of lone-
liness you may never perhaps have experienced be-
fore, on entering this wilderness. The hills are at
first distant, and the glen wide and hollow ; but a
dead stillness reigns on every thing, except on the
clattering river, which still flows on in no unstately
bulk. Wandering on, mile after mile, the glen gra-
dually narrows, and gets more savage in its aspect ;
great black rocks, which look like the stone walls of
some antediluvian city of the giants, begin to run
themselves up on each side ; they approach more and
more towards each other ; and at last the solitary
spectator feels as if they impeded his breath, although
they are some miles, perhaps, from each other. It is
time we should tell him exactly where he is. Yonder
singular looking peak, with shaggy precipitous sides,
towards the west, is Cairntoul ; proceeding from its
side — as a wall seems to proceed from the angle of a
turret — is a vast black mass of perpendicular rock ;
that is the ridge of Braeriach, said, by an eminent
calculator of altitudes, to have 2,000 feet of sheer
precipice; that 2,000 feet of precipice is the object
which it now almost aches your eyes to look upon —
a flat black mass, streaked with snow, and sometimes
intruded on by a cloud, which divides the upper re-
gions from the lower. It is probable that now, in
mid-day, a hot sun gilds its black front, and mocks
its streaks of snow, while a dead unearthly silence
pervades the mass. It is not so at all times ; for
here is the workshop of storms — here the elements,
when they prepare themselves to come down with
destruction on the fruitful valleys below, exercise
their strength and do no harm ; then the scene is
different from the stillness of the present ; but with
your leave, reader, it is a change we do not wish
to witness. Returning to the description of our
glen : right a head, and almost protruding into it, is
the well-known Cairngorm ; and towards the east,
stretched the loftier Benmuichdhui, now admitted to
be the highest hill in Britain. Now, after having
heard the names of these mighty objects, let us re-
quest you to indulge yourself' in the feeling of strik-
ing loneliness and disconnection with the world
which every thing you view seems to impose on you ;
and if you may not have perceived it before, you
will now feel the full expressiveness of the terms in
those lines by Hogg, where he says,
Beyond the grizzly cliff's which guard
The infant-hills uf Highland Dee,
Where hunter'8 horn was never heard,
Nor bugle of the forest-bee ;
Mid wastes that dern and dreary lie.
One mountain rears its mighty form,
Disturbs the moon in passing by,
And smiles above the thunder storm.
Queen's Wake, 95, 6.
" The Dee is still a respectable stream, but we are
gradually running it to earth. Ascending its brawl-
ing course, where it toils over large stones, and winds
round the bases of rocks, we suddenly reach a mound
of great round stones, from which it issues, gurgling
and boiling at several outlets, seeming with difficulty
to force itself through. Ascending the mound of
stones, where we hear a deep hollow gurgbng beneath
our feet, we find on its summit a small, round, deep
green lake, whose pure cold surface is here and there
sbghtly disturbed by the bubbling up from the bot-
tom of numberless springs. The water is of a beau-
tiful pale green, — so clear that you can see the sand
and stones at the bottom, almost as distinctly as
through the air, where the water must be some fa-
thoms deep. This pool of water, then, reader, so
singularly placed in the midst of the wilderness, is
DEE
310
DEE
the source of that Dee which carries civilization,
fruitfulness, and commerce, through a great district
of Scotland, waters many a broad acre of wood and
corn, and harbours the shipping of a great commer-
cial city."
About \i mile below the linn, at the farm of
Dallavorar, some signs of cultivation begin to ap-
pear on the banks of the Dee ; but it soon after
enters Mar forest, through which it flows to Castle-
ton of Braemar, [see that article,] a distance
of 11 miles, receiving in its course the Luiand the
Quoich, from the north; and the Inverey and
the Clunie or Cluanadh, from the south, [see these
articles,] and passing Mar lodge on its northern bank.
From Castleton the Dee pursues its course through
the Mar and Invercauld forests to the bridge of Bal-
later. About 1£ mile above which it is joined by a
large affluent, the water of Gairden, from the north,
and the Muick from the south : See articles Bal-
iater, Gairden, and Glenmuick. The scenery
of the Dee, in the Braemar forests, has been de-
scribed in our article Braemar. Passing Pannanich
and Dee castle, the Dee flows eastwards through a
gradually widening, though still narrow valley, re-
ceiving numerous small tributaries on both banks,
and forcing its way through an alluvium composed of
rolled masses of coarse and fine granular, grey and
red granite, gneiss, porphyry, primitive greenstone,
and hornblende. About \i mile below Kincardine
O'Neil, where Potarch bridge crosses the Dee, there
is a magnificent vein of red felspar porphyry, tra-
versing gneiss, and varying in breadth from 6' to 20
feet. Below Potarch, the Dee enters Kincardine-
shire, through which it flows eastward for about
12 miles, receiving in this part of its course the
Aven, sometimes called the Feugh : See article
Birse. From the point where it touches on the
south-west corner of Drumoak parish in Aberdeen-
shire, till its confluence with the sea at Aberdeen,
it forms the dividing line betwixt Aberdeenshire
and Kincardineshire. Its banks, throughout this
distance, are rather tame and unpieturesque, — the
hills lumpish and heath-covered, and presenting few
cliffs, and the haughs narrow, except for the last 5
or 6 miles of its course. Its total length of course
is about 96 miles ; and its tributaries drain nearly
1 ,000 square miles of country. Its mouth forms the
entrance to the harbour of Aberdeen, [see that
article,] which is an artificial basin between New
Aberdeen and the suburb of Footdee, on the north,
and the river Dee on the south. It abounds with
salmon; and the most valuable fishings in Scotland
■ — the Tay and the Spey excepted — are on this river,
the yearly produce of the Dee being estimated at
nearly --£8,000 sterling: See article Aberdeen.
The Midcliingle fishery, from 1815 to 1821, aver-
aged 116-J barrels of salmon and grilse in the year;
but from 1829 to 1834, only 50 barrels. The Cul-
ter fishery averaged, from 1815 to 1821, 23| barrels;
from 1829 to 1835, only 8.}. The llaik fishery,
which is held of the town of Aberdeen under a
charter from the Crown, is the most valuable fishery
on the Dee. It extends from the upper end of Aber-
deen a mile to the northward, and not quite a mile
to the south of the breakwater. It is both a coast
and river fishery. In 1782, there were but 1 barrel
of grilse, and 301 of salmon killed on it; in 1832,
there were 398 barrels of grilse, and 217 of salmon.
In 1835, the total take was 19,194 fish; or 253
barrels; but the average from 1829 to 1835 was 427
barrels.* All the upper fishings on this river have
* A barrel is 400 lbs. Dutch or 436 lbs. imperial English. The
expellie of taking a barrel of saliunu at the Rrtik, in 182*, was
i:t :fc. I{d ; and .if conveying it to the Lundun market, includ-
ing ice aud boxes, £1 Its.
greatly decreased; but there hits be«n an increase
from the beach-fisheries. The alteration on the
harbour has injured the fishings greatly, by render-
ing the water at the mouth of the river compara-
tively stagnant, and by the consequent accumulation
of silt and gas-refuse. The greater part of the sal-
mon shipped at Aberdeen are the produce of the Dee
and Don ; but fish from the Spey and the Findhorn,
and some other rivers, are also shipped here. The
river Dee and adjacent sea-coast is fished by net and
coble, by stake-nets, and bag-nets. It may be fished
by net and coble from top to bottom. There are no
mill-dams upon it. The Dee has much decreased in
size within the last twenty years, owing, doubtless,
in great measure, to the improvement and drainage
of the country. In making a comparison of the soil
on the banks of the Dee and Don, the latter has
manifestly the advantage. Hence the old rhyme :
" A rood o* Don's worth twa o' Dee ;
Unless it be for fish aud tree."
DEE (The), a river in Kirkcudbrightshire, tra-
versing the whole length of the stewartry, and di-
viding it into two nearly equal parts. Its sources
are about a dozen rills, some pursuing an indepen-
dent course, and some passing through Long Loch
or Loch Dee, and all arising in the broad mountain-
range which separates Kircudbrightshire from Car-
rick. The highest, and strictly the parent-stream,
rises about a mile from the boundary, and before
receiving the surplus waters of Loch Dee, flows
circuitously about 6 miles, under the names of Sauch
burn and Cooran lane. Assuming now the name
of the Dee, it flows 17 miles north-eastward, receiv-
ing numerous rills from the uplands in its course,
and dividing the parishes of Minigaff, Girthon, and
Balmaghie on the south, from that of Kells on the
north. Over the whole of this distance it is a petty
stream, winding its way among broad flats of heath,
or hills destitute both of verdant beauty and of
grandeur. But at the point of leaving Kells its
character is entirely changed. Falling there into
Loch Ken, it usurps the titles and the tributes of
the larger and beautiful river by which that lake is
formed ; and thence it rolls proudly along to the sea,
rich in the wealth of waters, and gay in the dress of
its surrounding scenery. Over a distance of 9 or 10
miles it describes the arc of a circle, bending round
from the direction of south-east to that of south-
west; and the latter direction it maintains over 13
miles, till it falls into the sea. During this part of
its progress, it divides the parishes of Balmaghie,
Tongueland, Twineham, and Borgue on the west,
from those of Dairy, Crossmichael, Kelton, and
Kirkcudbright, on the east. After falling into Loch
Ken, it expands over a distance of 5 miles into three
successive elongated lakes, of about | of a mile of
average breadth. Its course is afterwards rapid,
chiefly over a rocky bottom, and beneath steep and
rugged banks adorned with copsewood and planta-
tion. Opposite the church of Tongueland it tumbles
over a declivity of rocks, and forms a series of foam-
ing and impetuous cataracts. A little below, it is
spanned by a magnificent bridge of one arch of 110
feet, whence a fine view is obtained of the falls.
This bridge is constructed of huge blocks of free-
stone from the island of Arran, and was built by
the gentlemen of the stewartry at an expense of
about £7,000. Three quarters of a mile farther
down, the Dee receives the waters of the Tarff, and
becomes considerably widened. Two miles further,
it sweeps past the burgh of Kirkcudbright; and
thence over a distance of 5 miles, till it loses itself in
the Solway frith, forms an estuary at first J of a mile,
and afterwards 1J mile, of average breadth. Its
DEE
311
DEE
entire course, from the origin of Sauch burn till the
embouchure of the river, is about 46 miles. In
floods, the Dee sometimes rises 8 feet above its or-
dinary level. As the grounds around its sources
abound in mosses, its waters are of so dark a hue
as to render it difficult — in places where there is not
a considerable current — to distinguish between a pool
and a shallow. Its salmon, too, are of a darker
colour, and much fatter than those of most rivers
in the south of Scotland. The Dee is navigable to
Tongueland, or about 7 miles from the Solway; and
but for its cataracts, or with the aid of a canal to
enable vessels to surmount them, might be the me-
dium of an inland navigation to the very centre of
the stewartry.
DEER, or Old Deer, a parish partly in Aber-
deenshire, partly in Banff, situated almost in the
centre of Buchan ; extending in length 12 miles from
north to south, and in mean breadth 5i miles. It is
bounded by Strichen parish on the north ; by Long-
side on the east; by Cruden and Ellon on the south;
and by New Deer on the west. The high road from
Aberdeen to Frazerburgh cuts it longitudinally ; and
it is intersected by the road from Banff and Old
JMeldrum to Peterhead. It is watered by two rivu-
lets,— the Deer and the Strichen, — which afterwards
form the Ugie. The surface consists of irregular
ridges of rising ground, running in various directions,
and forming a number of valleys of unequal extent.
The tops of some of these ridges are covered with
heath, some with plantations, and many of them are
cultivated. Round the village is a plain of consid-
erable extent, ornamented with the woods and plea-
sure-grounds of Pitfour. A considerable quantity of
home-grown flax, spun into fine yarn, is annually
exported; and a large bleachfield with extensive
machinery exists here in the neighbourhood of
Stewartfield. Besides the village of Old Deer, there
are also other two populous villages : Stewartfield
and Fetterangits : which see. There are large
quarries of excellent limestone, of which nearly 20,000
bolls are annually sold. On the south-west of the par-
ish is great abundance of quartz or feld-spar, and pieces
of the purest rock-crystal are met with occasionally.
A fine dark blue, and a very white granite, are used
for building. There are several Druidical circles,
and the ruins of a small irregular village, supposed
to have been inhabited by the Druids. Population,
iu 1801, 3,552; in 1831, including that part of the
parish which is in Banffshire, 4,110. Houses, in
1831, in Aberdeenshire, 863; in Banffshire, 124.
Assessed property in Aberdeenshire, £5,866 ; in
Banffshire, £977 The village of Deer is pleasantly
situated on the north bank of the Deer; 10i miles west
of Peterhead, 4 south of New Deer, and 26 north of
Aberdeen. Not far from this village stand the re-
mains of the abbey of Deer, built in the beginning
of the 13th century by Cummyn, Earl of Buchan,
for some monks of the Cistertian order. It has been
an extensive building, but is now very much in ruins.
The revenues of this place at the Reformation were
in money £805 8s. 6d. ; wheat 14 bolls; bear 13
chaldrons, 10 bolls; meal 65 chaldrons, 7 bolls, 1
firlot, 3 pecks. In 1587, the lands belonging to it
were erected into a temporal lordship in favour of
Robert, son of William, 6th Earl Marischal, by the
style and title of Lord Altrie This parish, for-
merly a prebend of Aberdeen, is in the presbytery
of Deer, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the
Crown. Church built in 1789; sittings 1,150. Sti-
pend ±'219 2s. 8d. ; glebe 29J acres of good land.
Unappropriated teinds £67 14s. A portion of the
parish of St. Fergus was annexed to it in 1618
There is an Episcopalian congregation at Old Deer,
which has existed since before the Revolution. Cha-
pel built in 1766 ; sittings 500. Stipend £82, with
a manse There is also an Independent church at
Old Deer, established in 1801. Chapel built in
1801 ; seats 300. Stipend £68, with manse and
garden.— At Clola there is an Original Seceder con-
gregation, estabUshed in 1769; church built in 1784;
sittings 392. Stipend £70, with manse and glebe.
— At Stewartfield there is a United Secession con-
gregation, established in 1821 ; church erected in
1822 ; sittings 440. Stipend £90, with manse and
glebe. — According to a census taken by the parish-
minister in 1835-6, the population amounted to 4,488,
of whom 1,731 were in communion with the Estab-
lishment, and 642 with other denominations. — There
are 3 parochial schools. The 1st master has a sa-
lary of £31 6s. 7id., with £24 10s. fees; each of
the others has £10, with about £20 fees.
DEER (New-), an extensive parish in the north-
east of Aberdeenshire. It is of an oblong form, ex-
tending from north to south 14 miles, and, at a me-
dium, 6 miles from east to west. The surface is
flat, there being scarcely a hill or even a spot that
may be called an eminence. Towards the north-east
and south-east the appearance, for 7 or 8 miles, is
almost one continued corn-field, interspersed with
pieces of sown grass and turnip, and terminated by
a gently rising ground in the form of an amphithe-
atre ; towards the west the soil is shallow, and the
surface covered with heath. The public road from
Aberdeen, by Udny and Tarves, divides the parish
from south-east to north-west. Limestone abounds.
About 2 miles from the church stands an old castle
called Fedderatt, which appears to have been a place
of considerable strength. It is surrounded partly by
a morass, and partly by a fosse ; and has been acces-
sible by a drawbridge, part of which still remains.
Water has been conveyed to it by means of pipes,
pieces of which have, at different times, been torn
up by the plough. There are a few remains of
Druidical temples : and several tumuli, which have
been opened and found to contain urns enclosed in
stone-coffins. On a field called Aiky or Oaky-brae,
Edward Bruce, brother of King Robert Bruce, de-
feated the Cummyns, Earls of Badenoch, in the year
1308. Aiky market, which is held on the 2d Tues-
day, Wednesday, and Thursday, in July, O. S., is
said to have been established in commemoration of
this battle, and to be held on the spot where it was
fought. Population, in 1801, 2,984; in 1831, 3,525.
About 313 of the population are in the village of
New Deer. Assessed property, in 1815, £4,719.
Houses, in 1831, 765 This parish, anciently called
Auchreddy, was disjoined from Old Deer in the be-
ginning of the 1 7th century. It is in the presbytery
of Deer, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend £219 2s. 8d. ; glebe £20. Unap-
propriated teinds £737 17s. 6d. By a census made
by the parish-elders in the end of 1835, the popula-
tion was estimated at 3,622, of whom 3,008 were in
connexion with the Establishment, and 614 with
other denominations. A census by the Dissenters
returned the population at 3,712. Old parish-church
built in 1622 ; sittings 900 A chapel was erected
at Savock, in the south part of the parish, and 6
miles from New Deer, with sittings for 658, in 1834.
— There is a United Secession congregation at New
Deer, and another at Savock. The former had a
church built in 1828; sittings 310; the church be-
longing to the latter was built in 1804; sittings 380.
The stipend of the former is £75, with a manse and
glebe. There is also a United Secession congrega-
tion at Whitehill ; sittings 450. Stipend £90, with
a manse There are 3 parochial schools ; salary of1
each master £21 7s. 9d. ; school-fees collectively £62
10s. There were also, in 1834, 8 private schools.
DEE
312
DEN
DEER (The), a river in Aberdeenshire, which
takes its rise in the parish of New Deer, and, after
a course of about 16 miles, unites with the water of
Strichen, a tributary of the Ugie : which see.
DEER ISLAND, or Mcldonich, one of the
Hebrides, a little to the south of the island of Barra.
DEERNESS and St. ANDREWS, a parish in
the island of Pomona, and shire of Orkney and Shet-
land. The united parish had a population of 1 ,548
in 1821; and 1,550 in 1831. Houses 323. Assessed
property, in 1815, £268. It is in the presbytery of
Kirkwall, and synod of Orkney. Patron, the Earl
of Zetland. Stipend £208 6s. 8d. ; glebe £6. Un-
appropriated teinds £47 10s. 6d Schoolmaster's
salary £26. There were 3 private schools in 1834.
— The district of Deerness forms a peninsula, which,
from the Mullhead to the isthmus that divides it
from the district of St. Andrews, is in length up-
wards of 4 miles, and varies in breadth from 1 to 3,
as the large and beautifully winding harbour of Deer
sound enlarges or contracts. This harbour runs
nearly in the direction of north-east and south-west;
it is 4 miles long, and from 1 to 2i miles broad. Its
entrance is from the north ; and as it is surrounded with
land on every side, and has a bottom of clay mixed
with sand, and a sufficient depth of water, it consti-
tutes an excellent harbour. The population of Deer-
ness, in 1801, was 660; in 1831, 661. Houses, in
1831, 141. Assessed property £63. Around the
shores the soil is mostly sandy; higher up, it is loam
and clay; the middle of the parish is extremely boggy
and wet. Here are several tumuli, and near the end
of the isthmus which unites St. Andrews to Deer-
ness, are the remains of a very large Pict's house,
commonly called Dingy 's howe, or Duncan's height.
Deerness is very conveniently situated for a fishing
station. On the sand and shores are seen myriads of
plovers, curlews, sea-larks, sea-pies, and a large grey
bird with a hoarse cry, called by the inhabitants the
Horra goose. This district is connected with the
mainland only by a narrow and sandy isthmus. Here
very strong ropes, calculated for different purposes
in husbandry, are made of the shoots of the crow-
berry heath, or Empetrum nigrum. The ropes for
hanging the caseys, or baskets, over the horses' backs,
are made of the fibrous roots of the sea-reed, or
Arundo arenaria. Tethers and bridle-reins are made
of long meadow-grasses, such as Holcus lanatus,
which here receive the name of pounce, or puns.
• — There is a parliamentary church here. Stipend
£120; glebe £1.
DEER'S CASTLE. See Durisdeer.
DELNABO. See Kirkmichael, Banffshire.
DELORAINE, certain lands in the shire of Sel-
kirk, and parish of Etterick ; 1 7 miles south-west of
Selkirk. In 1706, Henry Scott, 2d son of the Duke
of Monmouth, and Countess of Buccleugh, was cre-
ated Earl of Deloraine. In 1807 this title became
extinct.
DELTING, a parish in Shetland, on the north
coast of the mainland; bounded on the north by Yell
sound ; on the east by Nesting and Lunnasting ; on
the south by Weesdale and Sandsting ; and on the
west by Sulemvoe and St. Magnus bay. It is so
intersected by arms of the sea, that no accurate idea
ran be given of its extent. In the report of the
parliamentary commissioners, it is stated to be 14
miles in length, by about 4 in average breadth; by
Edmonston it is said to be about 10 miles long and
8 miles broad. The surface is billy, bleak, and bar-
ren ; but the small part on the coast which is under
culture produces tolerable crops of oats and barley.
Fishing is the principal support of the inhabitants.
The chief harbours are St. Magnus bay, Altha firth,
Bustavoc, South Voetev, and Sulemvoe. Popula-
tion, in 1801, 1,449; in 1831, 2,070. By census in
1837,2,200. Houses, in 1831, 375. Assessed pro-
perty £929 This parish is in the presbytery of
Shetland, and synod of Orkney. Patron, the Earl
of Zetland. Stipend £151 Is. 6d. ; glebe £10.
There are two parish-churches. That of the south
district, or Olna frith kirk, was built in 1714; that
of the north district in 1811. Number of sittings in
both churches 1,130 Schoolmaster's salary £25
13s. 3|d. There are 2 private schools supported by
the General Assembly The two inhabited islands
of Muckle Roe and Little Roe belong to this par-
ish ; the former containing 210 persons, and separated
from the mainland by a very narrow sound dry at
low water ; the latter containing 12 persons, and
about a mile from the mainland. There are also
the three islets of Brother Isle, Fishholm, and Bigga.
DEMYAT. See Dunmyat.
DENHOLM, a village beautifully situated on the
right bank of the Teviot, in the parish of Cavers,
Roxburghshire. The body of it is a square, com-
pactly built on the four sides with neat houses, the
central space, including about 9 acres, being, with
the exception of the site of the parish school-house,
enclosed and laid out in pasture. From the angles,
roads or openings branch off, those on one side being
on the main road through the village, and those on
the other leading through brief streets or alleys, to
a suspension-bridge for the accommodation of foot-
passengers across the Teviot. The village has re-
cently, at considerable expense, been much improved,
as to the neatness of its appearance and the comfort
of its inhabitants, by James Douglas, Esq. of Ca-
vers. It is 5 miles from Hawick, and the same dis-
tance from Jedburgh, and stands on the great read
between Berwick and Carlisle. It is inhabited prin-
cipally by stocking-weavers. Here are an Indepen-
dent chapel, having nearly 300 sittings, and a well-
selected and well-plied public library. Denholm
was the birth-place of Dr. John Leyden. Popula-
tion 500. See Cavers.
DENINO. See Dunino.
DENNY, a parish in the shire of Stirling, formerly
a vicarage of the parish of Falkirk, from which it
was separated in 1618. Its greatest length is com-
puted at about 6 miles, its breadth at about 4 ; and
it is supposed to contain 6,016 acres. It is bounded
on the north by the Carron, which separates it from
the parishes of St. Ninian's and Dunipace ; on the
south by the parish of Kilsyth, by that of Cumber-
nauld in Dumbartonshire, and by Falkirk, — Bonny
water flowing between it and the two latter parishes ;
on the west by the parish of Kilsyth ; and on the
east by Dunipace and Falkirk. Besides the village
of Denny, it contains those of Haggs, Denny-Loan-
head, and Bankier. The north road from Edinburgh
to Glasgow — which passes through Falkirk — runs
along the southern part of the parish. The surface
of this parish, like that of most of the districts in
the eastern part of Stirlingshire, is gently undulating.
The most prominent feature is Larritch hill, or the
Hill of Oaks, near the north-western extremity. The
stone-fences, which nearly universally prevail here,
and the almost entire want of trees and hedgerows,
give the landscape an unusually bleak and uninter-
esting aspect. The northern and western parts,
which are more elevated than the southern, are prin-
cipally occupied as sheep-pastures. The soil in the
northern part belongs to the class known by the
name of dryneld, and is light, sandy, and not very
fertile. The cultivation, however, has, within the
last few years, been greatly improved, and by the
extensive application of draining and other improved
methods of agriculture, very fair crops are now raised.
Some of the land in the north-eastern part of the par-
DENNY.
313
ish is of greatly superior quality, and lets — we have
understood — at as high a rate as the best carse-land
in the country. Coals are found here in abundance,
and from the colliery of Banknock a considerable
quantity is exported by the Forth and Clyde canal
to Glasgow. Ironstone is also found to some ex-
tent. The numerous falls of the Carron in this par-
ish have furnished excellent situations for mills of
various kinds. On the banks of that rivulet there
were formerly not less than nine grain mills. There
are now, however, only three, of which two are meal
and barley mills, and the other for the grinding of
flour. In addition to these, there are two char mills,
— a mill for chipping dye-woods, and the preparation
of other dye-stuffs, — two large paper-mills, in one
of which tine white paper, and in the other coarse
pasteboard is manufactured. In a paper-mill in this
parish, a large quantity of the cartridge-paper used
in the army during the late war was manufactured.
There are three wool-spinning mills. Besides these,
we may mention a large bleachtield and a printfield,
both of which, though in the adjoining parish of
Dunipace, yet from their immediate vicinity to the
town of Denny, may more appropriately be viewed
in connection with the subject of the present article.
There is a distillery in the town of Denny, — a meal
and barley mill on Bonny water, in the south-eastern
part of the parish, — and two chip-mills for drysalt-
ing operations on Browster water.* The Forth
and Clyde canal, and the line of the Edinburgh and
Glasgow railway now executing, pass through the
parishes of Falkirk and Cumbernauld, close by the
southern confines of the parish of Denny. This parish
— like a few others in Stirlingshire — is remarkable for
the number of small properties which it contains, oc-
cupied by vassals, or portioners as they are here called,
holding of a subject superior. This peculiarity is said
to have arisen from the alarm of an Earl of Wigton at
the time of the Union in 1705, who, from a belief that
that event would prove fatal to the prosperity of his
country, disposed of the whole of his large estates
in this and the neighbouring parishes of Cumbernauld
and Kirkintilloch to his own tenants, on condition
of their paying for ever the rents of that time. The
number of heritors is about 150, the principal being
William Forbes, Esq. of Callendar. There are no
families of any distinction in the parish. A consid-
erable tract of land, known by the name of Temple
Denny, is supposed to have belonged in former times
to the Knights Templars. The assessed property, in
1815, was .£6,631. Population, in 1801, 2,033; in
1831, 3,S43 The village of Denny is situated in
the north-eastern part of the parish, within a few
hundred yards of the boundary between this and the
parish of Dunipace. It is 7£ miles north-east from
Stirling, and the high road from that town to Glas-
gow passes through it. Two branch-banks have
recently been established here, — one in connection
with the Commercial bank of Scotland, and the other
with the Clydesdale bank in Glasgow. Fairs for
cows are held on the Wednesday before the 12th
of May, O. S., and on the Wednesday after the
11th of November There are scarcely any remains
of antiquity connected with this parish. A stone-
coffin was found many years ago at Woodyett, on
the north-eastern extremity. It is said to have borne
the date of 1301, and contained human bones —
There was a very old bridge over the Carron near
Denny. The ancient and principal arch of this
* For the supply of the nrills on the Carron, a large reservoir
existed for some time on the Earls burn, in the parish of St.
Ninian's; but this having been almost completely destroyed in
18.31)— from the effects, as was supposed, of the earthquake no-
ticed in our article Co.mrik — it is the intention of those connected
with the mills to apply to parliament for leave to construct a
new reservoir on the Earls burn, and a dam-head on the Carron.
old bridge was built in the form of four arched rings
or couples, upon which the whole superstructure
appears to rest. There is only one bridge in this
neighbourhood, built in a similar way ; namely, that
unique looking bridge over the Devon, near Tulli-
body, the two original arches of which are built with
rings or couples ; but in this case the arches are
pointed like the Gothic windows in some of our
churches, whereas in Denny bridge the arches were
semicircular or Saxon. This bridge was about 12
feet wide, and very high ; a new one 32 feet wide,
and 10 feet lower, has been recently substituted for it.
The parish of Denny, including the new quoad
sacra parisb of Haggs, is in the presbytery of Stir-
ling, and svnod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend £250 3s. 3d. ; glebe £9 13s. 4d.
Unappropriated teinds £449 0s. lOd. The stipend
has, in 1840, been raised to 19 chalders. The church,
which is situated in the town of Denny, was built in
1813; sittings 768. A new church — modelled on that
of Camelon — has recently been erected at the village
of Haggs, containing 600 sittings. There are also two
United Secession congregations in this parish. The
one at the village of Denny was established in 1797
The church was purchased in 1 796, and was greatly
enlarged in 1817; sittings 554. Stipend £100. The
minister has also a house and garden of about £16
annual value, and a small park worth about £3. The
other Secession congregation is at Denny-Loanhead.
It was established in 1 738 ; and its history is closely
connected with the rise of the Secession. f Church
built in 1815; cost £1,400; sittings 731. Stipend
£168, with manse and garden The parochial school-
master has a salary of £34 4s. 4Jd., with about £24
school-fees. Average number of scholars 49. There
are 7 other schools, with an average attendance of
about 408. The population of the parish, by a more
recent census, was 4,027, of which 2,290 belonged to
the Establishment, and 1,678 to other denominations.
t This parish was the scene of a famous non-intrusion contest
upwards of a century ago; of which the following brief but
impartial outline may be instructive in these times :— In 173.i,
the parish of Denny having become vacant by the death of their
pastor, a presentation was given to Mr. James Stirling ; and the
laird of Herbertshire — who appears to have acted as patron on
behalf of the Crown — caused intimation to be made to the mo-
derator of the presbytery of Stirling, that a presentation had
been given and accepted, and requested that the presbytery
would take the presentee on trials for ordination. The par-
ishioners opposed this summary mode of proceeding, and peti-
tioned that a moderation might be granted for the people at
large, without any reference to the presentation given. From
the presbytery the matter was carried to the synod of Perth
and Stirling, who found that the presentation was null and void,
on account of its not having been presented to any judicatory
in due time, by any person having a commission from his Ma-
jesty for that purpose ; and it was finally agreed, among all the
parties coucerned, that the presentation being laid aside, a call
should be moderated in the kirk of Denny. On the day of mo-
deration, the former presentee was proposed on the part of the
patron, and another candidate was proposed on the part of the
people; and the roll of voters being called, few or none of the
heads of families voted for the patron's candidate. Of the heri-
tors, 52 gave him their support, and of these the greater part
were either non-residenters, or not in the communion of the
church ; while for the popular candidate there were 7-1 heritors,
the whole of the session, and 138 heads of families. Though
the voice of the parish was thus most unequivocally expressed
against the presentee, and though the call given to the nominee
of the people was — with the exception of the heritors men-
tioned— almost unanimous, yet the two ministers who con-
ducted the moderation, refused to attest the call ; they referred
it to the presbytery; and the presbytery, without judging in it,
referred it to the synod. The synod, after hearing ail the par-
ties, gave a decision, by a large majority, in favour of the par-
ishioners, and ordered the presbytery to proceed with the set-
tlement of the person whom they had called. Against this
decision the friends of the presentee protested, and carried the
cause by appeal before the supreme court. The assembly re-
mitted the settlement of it to their commission. The commis-
sion delayed the consideration of the Denny case till the next
meeting of assembly ; and the assembly at lenglh gave the case
a hearing, but again remitted it to the commission. The com-
mission, after making several unsuccessful attempts to effect a
reconciliation betwixt the parties, thought proper — at the clo^e
of one of their meetings, when the greater part of their mem-
bers had gone away, and when there was scarcely a quorum of
DER
314
DES
DERNOCK, or Darkock, or Darnwick, a small
stirring village in Roxburghshire, near the south
bank of the Tweed, about a mile above Melrose.
It stands on the road from Edinburgh to Carlisle by
way of Jedburgh, and on that between Melrose and
Selkirk. Its appearance is smiling and comfortable,
and indicates prosperity and content. It was one of
the villages of the halidom of Melrose abbey, and
still retains some ruinous towers which must have
been occupied by rich vassals of the abbot.
DERVAL, or Derville, a regularly built, pros-
perous, manufacturing village, on Irvine water, at
the southern verge of the parish of Loudon, Ayr-
shire. It is 9 miles east of Kilmarnock, on the
road between that town and Strathaven. In 1811,
it contained about 400 inhabitants ; in 1836, 150
houses, and 1,160 inhabitants. The lands of Der-
val anciently belonged to the Knights Templars,
and were independent of tenure, not even holding of
the Crown.
DESKFORD, a parish in Banffshire, bounded on
the north by Cullen ; on the north-east and east by
Fordy ce ; on the south by Grange ; and on the west
their number present — to reverse the sentence of the synod,
and order the settlement of the presentee to take place. Against
this sentence the people, of course, reclaimed, and once more
appeared at the bar of the assembly. But the sentence of the
commission was affirmed ; and the presbytery of Stirling en-
joined to take the necessary steps for ordaining the intruder.
Yet the same assembly, on the following day, agreed to an act,
in which they declared, " that it is, and has been since the Re-
formation, the principle of this church, that no minister shall
be intruded into any parish contrary to the will of the congre-
gation." The business, however, did not stop here. The pres-
bytery refused to execute the sentence of their own church.
This refusal, on the part of the presbytery, occasioued another
complaint to be made to the assembly by the presentee's friends.
Whereupon the venerable court appointed a committee of 21
members to prepare an overture on the whole affair j and at a
subsequent sederunt, an overture was brought iu, and approved
of, declaring the dissatisfaction of the assembly with the con-
duct of the presbytery, in neglecting or refusing to fulfil the
appointment of the assembly [1736] ; aod enjoining the presby.
tery to proceed immediately with the trials of Mr. Stirling, and
to have the whole finished before the 1st of September next.
And, lest the presbytery should still prove contumacious, the
synod of Perth and Stirling were ordered to take him upon
trials, and to proceed, so as to have the settlement completed
before the 1st of March. It was further declared, that any 10
or more of them might proceed to ordain Mr. Stirling, even
though all the rest of their brethren should be opposed to the
execution of the act; and that "in case the synod, or such
number of them as above-mentioned, shall not, before the 1st
of November next, enter upon trials the said Mr. Stirling, or
before the 1st of March next finish the same, the assembly em-
power a special commission of this general assembly, to con-
vene at Edinburgh, in the Old kirk aisle, on the third Wednes-
day of November or March respectively, with power to adjourn
themselves as they shall think tit, in order to take trials, and
ordain Mr. Stirling as minister of Denny." In the meantime,
Mr. Stirling, the presentee, died before his trials for ordination
could be completed. Upon an application made to the presby-
tery, a new moderation was appoioted to take place among
them. One candidate was proposed on behalf of the few who
had hitherto supported the claims of the patron, — and another
on behalf of the congregation ; but when the votes were aboot
to be taken, none of the elders were permitted to vote on the
ground that they were not qualified to the present civil gov-
ernment; the beads of families were denied the same privilege,
inasmuch as it was alleged that they had no right to it, by the
laws either of the church or of the state; and the votes also of
heritors were refused, unless they were infefted in their pos-
sessions, and unless they paid cess. Notwithstanding these
arbitrary measures, a call to the popular candidate was sub-
scribed by a large majority of the congregation, and presented
to the presbytery at their first meeting, by wliom it was re-
jected, while the call of their opponents was sustained, and their
candidate ordered to be taken on trials for ordination. Against
this decision the people protested, but did not think proper to
appeal to any higher court. They, however, were resolved
that they would not tamely submit to the intruder. On the
day set apart for the ordination, 117 heritors, elders, and heads
of families, went publicly to the kirk of Denny, and after ser-
mon, immediately before the imposition of hands, entered a
solemn protest against the proceedings of the presbytery, de-
claring that the person whom they were now pretending to
set apart to the office of the ministry, being intruded upon the
parish contrary to the laws of Christ, was not, nor could be,
regarded as lawful minister of the congregation, to whom they
could Bubmit in the Lord. Having made this declaration, and
having taken instruments in the hand of a notary-public, they
withdrew, and soon after connected themselves in a body with
the then infant Secession church.
by Rathven, parishes. From the last it is separated
by the Altmore and Darbriech burns. It is nearly
in the form of a parallelogram, and is about 5 miles
in length from north to south, and 2 to 3 in breadth
from east to west. It consists of a valley running
from south-west to north-east, between two ranges
of hills, whence numerous rivulets descend through
small ravines or glens which are beautifully fringed
with hazel and birch. These rivulets from both
sides unite in the valley with the burn of Deskford,
whose primary source is at the head of the valley, in
the adjoining southern parish of Grange. It runs
north-east through the Cullen burn to the sea. As
the banks of the Deskford burn are also finely bor-
dered with natural wood, the parish altogether con-
stitutes " one of the most beautiful little straths in
the whole country." There are cascades in many
of the rivulets which, in the summer-floods and win-
ter-thaws, descend with great impetuosity through
the trees, and exhibit many romantic and picturesque ,
scenes. The Linn is the most remarkable cascade
in the parish. It has a very fine fall of almost 30
feet. The soil of the lower land in the valley is
loam resting on strong deep clay ; but towards the
hills it is a light black mossy soil upon clay and
gravel. It is stated in the New Statistical Account
that, of land, either cultivated or occasionally in
tillage, there are 2,800 imperial acres ; — waste or in
pasture 5,100; — of which 250 might be profitably
cultivated: — under- wood 600: — average rent of
arable land 1 7s. 6d. per acre. The average gross
amount of raw produce raised in the parish, as nearly
as can be ascertained, is stated to be £6,062 8s.
In 1752, the then Lord Deskford — afterwards Earl
of Findlater and Seafield — established a bleachfield
in the north end of the parish, where about 1,500
pieces of cloth and 1,700 spyndles of thread yarn were
annually whitened ; but a few years since, from the
decay of the linen manufacture, and household spin-
ning here, the bleaching also fell off, and was given up.
There is no market-town in this parish. Cullen, 4
miles distant, is the nearest. A very excellent turn-
pike road has been recently made from Cullen to
Keith Near the centre of the parish was formerly
the tower of Deskford, an ancient castle, said to
have been built by the Sinclairs, the immediate pre-
decessors of the Ogilvies, in the property of the
lordship of Deskford. Its remains were a few years
ago pulled down ; but Cordiner has preserved a view
of it. In the same vicinity also is the castle of
Skuth, which has now also become ruinous. It is a
striking object to passengers. In the institution at
Banff is a curious antiquity consisting of a brazen
swine's head, with a wooden tongue moved by
springs. It was found about 25 years ago in a mossy
knoll at Liechestown, near the farm of Inalterie,
which is supposed to mean the place of the altar,
and where there are remains of a very old and mas-
sive but anomalous structure, in one part of which
there is a deep circular hole enclosed by a wall rising
to a considerable height in the interior of the build-
ing. Close to it is a vault with a stair descending
into it. In the immediate vicinity, also, there stood
till recently an artificial conical eminence named the
Law-hillock — said to have been the ancient seat of
justice. Another artificial hillock stands within
view of this on the other side of Deskford burn.
There is no modern or other edifice of any note in
this parish. The assessed property, in 1815, was
.£1,882. Houses, in 1831, 189. Population, in
1801, 610; in 1831, 828 This parish is in the
presbytery of Fordyce, and synod of Aberdeen. It
was originally part of Fordyce, and was afterwards
included in Cullen. Patron, the Earl of Seafield.
Stipend £193 12s. 10d.; glebe £8. Unappropriated
DES
3U
DEV
teinds £74 16s. Id. The church adjoins the site of
Deskford tower. There is no date on the church,
but one pew bears the date 1627, another 1630.
Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4id., with £12 fees.
There is one private school.
DESKRY (The), a tributary to the river Don.
This rivulet rises to the south of the Don, and runs
northwards through a glen of 2 miles in length and
about ^ a mile in breadth, in the parishes of Towie
and JVIigvy, till it falls into the Don at the north-
western extremity of the glen, where the parish of
Migvy lies on both sides of the water. There is a
stone bridge of one arch across it at Rippachy, on
the highway from Strathdon to Aberdeen. The
trout of Deskry water are small but excellent.
DEUCALEDONES. See Caledonians.
DEUCALEDONIAN SEA, the name given by
Ptolemy, and the ancient geographers, to the ocean
which washes the western coasts and isles of Scot-
land.
DEUGH (The). See Carsphairn.
DEVERON (The), or Doveran, a river which
has its main head-stream in the parish of Cabrach, in
Aberdeenshire, and after a course of about 60 miles
through fertile and highly cultivated plains, falls into
the ocean at Banff. It forms the boundary betwixt
Aberdeenshire and Banff for many miles, and in its
course receives many rivulets, particularly the Bogie,
which falls into it at the town of fitintly [see
AucHiNDont] and the Isla a little above Rothiemay :
see article Isla. Upon its banks are found frequent
specimens of plumbago, and symptoms of lead-ore
have been observed. It is well-stored with trout
and salmon. There is a shifting bar at the mouth
of the river which varies with gales of wind. In
1834 the mouth was entirely shut up by it, but broke
out 600 yards further to the eastward. Hence arise
frequent disputes amongst the cruive owners as to
the line of the bed of the river. The produce both
of the upper and lower fisheries of the Deveron has
greatly decreased of late years.
DEVON (The), a small river which rises in the
western part of the Ochils, a little to the east of
Sheriffmuir, and in the parish of Blackford, Perth-
shire. Its course is at first in an easterly direction.
After flowing for about 2 miles through the par-
ish of Blackford, and immediately on being joined by
another streamlet from the south, it forms the boun-
dary between the last-named parish and those of
Tillicoultry and Glendevon. It then enters the
parish of Glendevon, near Cleugh burn, and continues
its eastward course till it arrives at the small village
of Miltown at the eastern extremity of Glendevon.
A little below Miltown it makes a decided bend
toward the sowth-east, forming the boundary of the
parishes of Glendevon and Muckhart on the west,
and the parish of Fossaway and the shire of Kinross
on the east, till it reaches the village known by the
name of Crook of Devon, where, turning abruptly
to the south-west, it flows onward in this direction,
between the parishes of Muckhart and Fossaway,
through those of Dollar and Tillicoultry, along the
southern boundary of Alloa, and finally entering
Alloa parish, and making a sharp turn to the south,
it falls into the Forth a little above the town of
Alloa, after a course of fully 30 miles in length.
The Devon has been celebrated by Burns, and from
the romantic scenery which adorns its banks, it is
indeed well-worthy of being honoured in the poet's
song. Its waters are beautifully pure, and the scenery
at the Rumbling bridge and the Caldron linn, near
the Crook of Devon, where several remarkable cata-
racts are formed, is of the most sublime and extra-
ordinary kind Passing through the village called
the Crook of Devon, we keep the river on our right
for about a mile, and then descend along its rocky bed,
when we soon approach the Falls of the Devon, — the
first of which, called the Devil's mill,* is heard, but not
seen. This forms the least considerable of the falls.
The Devon here falls into an excavation in the solid
rock with a noise resembling that of water falling
on a mill-wheel. Near this spot is a cavern named
the Pigeon's cave. About 350 yards lower down the
Devon, is a small arch, spanning a deep and gloomy
chasm, called the Rumbling bridge. It is so named from
the hollow brawling of the water while forcing its way
among huge fragments of impending rocks; and as
it hurries along, boiling and foaming in wildest
tumult, the whole scenery adjacent is characteristic
of that fantastic rudeness which Nature delights in
exhibiting amid the roar of cascades and the thunder
of cataracts. On looking down the Devon from the
bridge, — a giddy height, — the prospect beneath the eye
is truly sublime. The high, projecting, and impend-
ing precipices on either hand are wooded in all the
capricious varieties of form and ramification of hazel,
willow, birch, and mountain-ash: from among which,
midway among the craggy steeps, daws, kites, and
other birds that delight in solitude, are seen sailing
in security and freedom. The southern bank of the
Devon forms the middle ground, and a peep of the
Saline hills closes in the distance. The whole is
exceedingly picturesque and magnificent. In order
to command a view of the wooded cliffs over which
the Rumbling bridge is thrown, it is necessary to
come round by the south bank of the river. The
best station is about a gunshot from the brink of the
water, on a gentle eminence immediately opposite
the bridge. Here the deep and gloomy chasm through
which the Devon forces its way is seen in one vast
cleft, torn as it were asunder by some terrible con-
vulsion of nature. The small arch, half-seen through
the hanging branches which wave wildly over the face
of the rugged steeps, gives an air of grandeur suit-
able to the solemn dignity of the scene. The whole
is striking and impressive. + From the Rumbling
bridge to the Caldron linn, or linns, the Devon glides
gently along; until, about a mile below the former,
the bed of the river suddenly contracts its channel,
and as we approach the falls, the distant roar of the
waters becomes imposing and awful. The upper fall
is inconsiderable, yet sufficient to arrest the atten-
tion. Soon after comes into view the chasm through
which the river boils and foams from caldron to
caldron, — for such are the circular excavations called
which the incessant workings of the waters in the
course of ages have caused. In the upper caldron,
the water has so much the appearance of boiling,
that it is difficult to divest one's self of the idea that
it is really in a state of violent ebullition. From this
caldron the water finds its way into a circular cavity,
in which it is carried round and round, though with
much less violent agitation: this second caldron is
always covered with a foam or froth. From this
* "The couatry people," says Garnett, "rail it the Devil's
mill, because it pays no regard to Sunday, and works every day
alike." The noise it makes is supposed to be occasioned by the
water falling over a small cascade into a deep cavity in the rock
below. The water tossed round with great violence, and con.
staotly heating on the sides of the rock, causes a clacking noise,
similar to that of a mill at work, which is very distinctly heard
when the water has force enough, by its quantity, to beat on
the rock with violence, and when it is not so high as entirely to
cover the cavity.
-f- Where the old arch is thrown across, the banks are S6 feet
above the water. The span of the arch is 22 feet, and its width
12 feet. It was built in the year 1713, by William Gray, a
native of the parish of Saline. Having tit) parapet defences, it
required some fortitude to walk across this bridge even in the
day-time ; yet it was used, for upwards of a hundred years, by
persons both on foot and horseback, by night and by day. lu
1316 a substantial modern bridge was built over the old arch —
which still remains — the height of which from the water is 120
feet. Titere is au excellent inn in the immediate vicinity of the
Bridge
DEV
316
DIN
boiler the water runs into another, larger than either
of the other two, the diameter of it being 22 feet.
The water in this cavity is not agitated like the
others, but calm and placid. When the river is low,
these caldrons communicate with each other, not by
the water running over at their mouths, but by aper-
tures made, by the force of the waters, in the course
of time, through the rocks which separate them at,
perhaps, the middle depth of the caldrons. From the
lower caldron, the whole body of the stream rushes
perpendicularly over a rock into a deep and romantic
glen, forming a tine cascade, particularly when viewed
from the bottom of the glen, to which there is access
by a zigzag path. This cascade is 84 feet below the
first fall above the caldrons, and is 44 feet in height.
The rocks which compose the linn are about twice
as high ; so that it appears as if the water had worn
its way from the top to its present situation, which
most probably has been the case. It falls in one
unbroken sheet, without touching the rock, and the
whiteness of the dashing water is finely opposed to
the almost black colour of the rocks, which are
formed of coarse grained basaltes. " While we were
contemplating this beautiful scene," says Dr. Garnett,
"the sun happened to shine upon it, and the spray,
which arises from it to a considerable height, by re-
fracting the rays of light, exhibited the appearance
of a luminous vapour, in which the different prisma-
tic colours were easily discernible." Having come
round by the foot of the south bank of the river,
and crossed it in front of the precipice over which
the water rushes, we command a complete view of
the great fall of the Devon. A stupendous pile of
solid rocks, over which in one full, rapid, and power-
ful torrent, the river precipitates itself, presents its
rugged front; while fragments of rock which from
time to time have been torn from the face of the
craggy steep lie scattered around in every direc-
tion, and in fine harmony with the rude and fan-
tastic forms of the deep and wooded dell through
which the Devon, as if tired of exertion, seeks silence
and repose in its route to gain the windings of the
Forth near Stirling.* The Devon is of no great
breadth, and is not navigable, although Mr. James
Watt, who made a survey of it in 1766, reported
that it was quite capable of being made so for several
miles above its confluence with the Forth, at an
expense of about .£2,000.
DEVON (The South or Black.). See Clack-
mannanshire.
DEWAR, a hamlet in the shire of Edinburgh, and
parish of Heriot ; 6J miles south of Middleton. On
the march between the parishes of Heriot and Inver-
lethen, on the farm of Dewar, there is a grave called
the Piper's grave, of which tradition reports that it
covers the remains of a whilom piper of Peebles;
who having engaged for a certain wager, to blow
from Peebles to Lauder, failed in the attempt, died
here, and was buried on the spot. On Dewar hill,
not far from this grave, there is a remarkable large
stone called Lot's wife ; but the reason of its title
* There is another Rumbling bridge on the Bran : Bee that
article. About 40 years ago, the late James Harrovver, Esq. of
Inzievar, had a most extraordinary escape at the Caldrou linn.
Where the river falls down into the first cavity, there is an up-
right rock, in the middle of the current, by which persons have
sometimes passed from the one side of the stream to the other.
In endeavouring to spring on to this, Mr. Harrower's feet
slipped on the slimy top of the rock, and he was precipitated
headlong into the upper caldron. He had presence of mind to
cling firmly to some protuberances on the sides of the rock,
until his companions procured ropes from a neighbouring farm-
house, by means of which he was extricated from his awful
situation. Some years previous to this incident a pack of
hounds, eagerly pursuing a fox, were led by reynard along the
banks of the Devon till he came to the linn, where he crossed ;
but in attempting to follow him, not being so well-acquainted
with the passage, the dogs fell one after another iutu the cal-
drou and perished.
is unknown. At a little distance from hence is the
Wolf cleuch, of which traditional story asserts that
this cleuch was once inhabited by a wolf which laid
waste the country around for a series of years, until
a person of the name of Dewar having encountered
the animal, killed it, and received for his reward a
gift of the adjoining lands.
DICHMOUNT. See Cambtjslang.
DICHMOUNT LAW, a hill in the parish of St.
Vigeans, and about 3 miles from the coast, in For-
farshire. It rises about 670 feet above the level of
the sea, and has on its summit a large cairn, hollowed
in the middle, and now covered with grass, where
anciently certain barons held their courts.
DICHTY (The), a small river in the south of
Forfarshire, of about 15 miles in course. It rises in
four head-streams, three of them from small lakes,
among the Sidlaw hills in the west of the parish of
Lundie. Flowing — with the exception of brief sinu-
osities— nearly due east, it traverses the parishes of
Auchterhouse, Strathmartine, and Mains, intersects
the eastern wing of Dundee, where it receives the
tribute of Fishy water, and after advancing half-way
through Monifeith, debouches suddenly to the south,
and falls into the frith of Tay' 2 miles east of
Broughty ferry. During its course it drives several
mills, and it contains trout and a few salmon.
DILTY-MOSS, a morass in the parishes of Car-
mylie and Guthrie, Forfarshire, about 2 miles long,
and lj broad. It is remarkable for giving rise to
two streams which, though both eventually finding
their way into the German ocean, traverse Forfarshire
from near its centre in opposite directions. At its
north-east end rises the Elliot, which pursues a course
to the south of east, and falls into the sea in the
parish of Arbirlot; and at its south-west end rises a
rivulet which flows to the north of west till it falls
into the Dean, and then, as identified with that
stream, flows westward till its leaves the county.
See Caemtlie.
DINART (The), a river in Sutherlandshire,
which takes its origin from Loch Dowl, a small lake
in the Dire More, or 'Great forest;' and after a
northerly course of 15 miles, along the base of the
Conval and Tonvarn mountains, falls into Durness
bay between Farout-head and Cape Wrath. It pro-
duces plenty of salmon.
DING WALL, f a parish in the county of Ross, at
the west end of the frith of Cromarty. It is bounded
on the east by the parish of Kiltearn ; on the north
by the vast mass of Benwyvis ; and on the west and
south by the parish of Fodderty. That part of the
parish of Urquhart, called Ferintosh, lies on the skirt
to the south-east ; but from it Dingwall parish is
divided by the river Conan, which, at high water, is
widened to about half-a-mile by the influx of the sea.
Excluding a small district, peopled by few inhabi-
tants, and divided from the rest by a high hill, this
parish forms an oblong peninsula of 1 J by 2 miles. It
consists partly of a pretty extensive valley, and partly
of the sloping sides of hills a great portion of which
is in a high state of cultivation. The waste ground
is not very considerable, and there are no commons
in the parish ; the great bulk of the land is in cul-
ture ; and the whole forms a beautiful interchange of
hill and valley, wood and water, corn-fields and mea-
dows. The soil over the whole parish is abundantly
fertile, and the greater part uncommonly rich. There
are some rivulets in the parish, but no river except
the Conan : which see. About 2 miles to the south-
t The name was formerly Dingnavnl or DignaoaUis, and
took its origin from the richness and fertility of the soil of the
lower grounds which form a considerable part of the parish,
[Old statistical Account.] — Others consider the name to be of
Scandinavian origin. The Gaels call it Innerfcorali, inarkiDg
its situation at the mouth of the Feller.
DINGWALL.
317
west of the town is a small lake, called Ousie. The
sea, at high water, washes a considerable part of the
parish on the south-east, running in apparent canals
along the side of the town, and forming a beautiful
variety of islets and peninsulas ; but, even at high tide,
it is very shallow for several miles down the frith ;
and, at low water, it recedes to the distance of nearly
4 miles, leaving nothing but a slimy strand. It is
thought that about 200 acres of ground might easily
be reclaimed in this quarter. About 1,400 acres are
under wood, and 2,400 are in tillage. The land rent
of the parish, at the close of last century, was about
.£1,200. The value of assessed property, in 1815,
was £3,967, exclusive of the burgh-property. In
the New Statistical Account, the average gross
amount of raw produce is estimated at £15,854.
Population, in 1801, 1,418; in 1831,2,124. Houses,
in 1831, 355. Gaelic is still the language of the
lower orders here. — This parish is in the presbytery
of Dingwall, andsvnod of Ross. Patron, the Crown.
Church built in 1801 ; sittings 800. Stipend £244
8s. lid.; glebe £30. Unappropriated teinds £54
14s. lOd There is a small Episcopalian chapel
Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4^d. ; with £25 4s.
fees. There were 4 private schools in 1834.
Dingwall, a royal burgh in the above parish, is
pleasantly situated at the mouth of the fertile val-
ley of Strathpeffer, at the head of the Cromarty
frith, and on the Great north road; 19 miles north
of Inverness by Beauly; 13j by Kessaek; 26 south-
west of Tain; 7 east of Contin; and 174i miles
west-north-west of Edinburgh. It chiefly consists
of a main street running east and west on the old
Strathpeffer road. At the west end of this street,
a small street runs north towards the Peffer ; and at
the east end, a large street, called Castle-street, ex-
tends from Castle hill, or from the canal afterwards
noticed, on the north, to the school-house on the
south. The town stands on a piece of level ground,
scarcely 4 feet above high flood-mark. It was erected
into a royal burgh by Alexander II. in 1227, and
its privileges were further confirmed by a charter
granted in the reign of James IV., and confirmed by
James VI. in 1587. It was entitled by these char-
ters "to all the privileges, liberties, and immunities
possessed by the burgh of Inverness." It was and
is still governed by a provost, 2 bailies, a dean-of-
guild, treasurer, and 10 councillors, and joins with
Tain, Dornoch, Wick, and Kirkwall, in sending a
member to parliament. Municipal electors 87. Par-
liamentary constituency 87. Revenue, in 1838-9,
£263 Is. 8d. " Dingwall had at one time a con-
siderable extent of landed property, which does not,
however, appear to have been turned to much account
while in the possession of the burgh, nor to have
produced any considerable revenue. The town pro-
perty began to be feued out, and far the greater part
was so alienated, more than forty years ago. In
most cases the grants were made to persons con-
nected with or influential in the burgh, and without
any competition or publication. But although, in
such circumstances, the interests of the community
were sometimes sacrificed, on other occasions the
alienation of a large tract affording only pasture was
sufficiently compensated by a very small permanent
revenue, joined to the advantage arising from the
extensive plantations or agricultural improvements
of the vassals. Within the last forty years the man-
agement of the town-property has been comparatively
pure ; and latterly, alienations have taken place only
after public advertisement, and by public sale, except
in a very few instances, where small plots of ground,
for erecting warehouses, or other such purposes, have
been granted on the petition of individuals, for an
annual duty fully equal to the value of the land.
The burgh now retains only seven or eight acres in
property, which, with the superiority of certain lands
held feu of the burgh, and fishings in the river Conan
and the Dingwall frith, produce altogether an average
rental of £273 7s. 2d. sterling. " [Parliamentary Re-
port on Municipal Corporations in Scotland. Part I. p.
189.] The annual expenditure of the burgh amounted,
in 1832, to £181 14s. lOd. The debts of the burgh
amounted, in 1832, to £2,367 10s. The lands with-
in the royalty are stated at a supposed rental of 338
bolls, 2 firlots; and according to the proportion held
by each proprietor, he is stented for payment of the
cess or land-tax now levied, and a sum of £45 yearly
in commutation of the statute-labour, under the acts
6° Geo. IV. e. 90, and 9° Geo. IV. c. 102. These
are the only local taxes now levied. The jurisdic-
tion of the magistrates, which extends over the roy-
alty, is in practice confined to the trial of assaults
and other petty crimes, and to the decision of actions
of debt, processes of removing, sequestration, en-
croachment, and other civil causes to a very limited
extent. Their whole functions as judges are rapidly
passing into the hands of the sheriff, who has a resi-
dent substitute holding regular courts at Dingwall.
The magistrates and council have no patronage ex-
cept the appointment of the town-clerk, at a salary
of 10 guineas; two burgh-officers, at £5 each; the
keeper of the town-clock, at £5 ; and a kirk-officer,
at a salary of 5s. annually. There are no incorpo-
rated trades claiming exclusive privileges within this
burgh. Persons carrying on merchandise within the
burgh must, however, take out their freedom as
burgesses, the expense of which varies from 5 to 15
guineas, according to the nature and probable extent
of the trade to be carried on ; or they may obtain a
temporary licence from the magistrates to open shop
at the rate of 5s. a-day or less. From many circum-
stances, it would appear, that anciently this town
was much greater than at present. Causeways and
foundations of houses have been found some hundred
yards from where the town now stands. It is how-
ever much improved of late. Above the town, the
Peffer used to spread itself into a small morass, which
has been successfully drained. A mile below the
bridge and town, coasting- vessels used to be loaded
and unloaded on the mud at low-water, their cargoes
being carried on a bad road to and from the east end
of the town. This inconvenience has been remedied
by shaping the lower end of the Peffer into a regular
canal 2,000 yards in length, with two wharfs at
which vessels of 9 feet draft of water find accom-
modation. The expense of these improvements —
which were executed in 1815-17 — amounted to
£4,365, of which £1,786 were furnished by the
Highland road commissioners, and £600 by the
convention of burghs. The average income of the
harbour is £137. As the centre of an agricultural
district, and the point of union of the Highlands of
Wester Ross with the more fertile country on its
eastern sea-coast, this burgh is of some consequence.
It is also well-situated for trade, but as yet no par-
ticular branch of manufacture has been introduced.
The burgh of Dingwall contains nearly 1,800 inhabi-
tants Near the town is a vestige of the ancient
residence of the Earls of Ross. It was built close
to the shore, and was at one time almost surrounded
by the Peffer, into which the tide flowed at high
water. What was not surrounded by the sea had
a deep ditch and a regular glacis. The site of
this castle is now occupied by a modern mansion.
The Earls of Ross were the most powerful of the
northern barons, and many of the ancient families in
Ross-shire held their estates by charters from them,
dated, "apud castrum nostrum de Dingwall.". — Near
the church is an obelisk, 57 feet high, though only
DIN
318
DIR
6 feet square at the base. It was erected by George,
1st Earl of Cromarty, and was intended to distinguish
the burying-place of the family About a mile to
the north of the town is the finely-wooded hill of
Tulloch, rising to the height of 800 feet; and be-
tween it and the town is Tulloch castle with its
pleasure-grounds.
DINLABYRE, an ancient chapelry in the parish
of Castletown, Roxburghshire. The chapel is de-
molished, but many grave-stones remain near its site.
It is on the eastern side of the Liddel.
DINWOODIE. See Applegarth.
DIPPEN. See Killmory.
DIPPLE, an ancient rectory, now comprehended
in the parish of Speymouth ; 1 + mile west of Focha-
bers. The church, which is now demolished, was
dedicated to the Holy Ghost ; but the churchyard is
still in use. At the stile of the churchyard, there
formerly stood a small house commonly called ' The
House of the Holy Ghost ;' around which, following
the course of the sun, the people usually made a
tour with the corpse at burials, nor could they be re-
strained from this superstition, until the walls of this
edifice were quite destroyed. The parson of Dipple
was titular of Rathven in the district of Strathbogie.
Here is a mortification of .£666 13s. 4d. to the poor;
and of £333 6s. 8d. to the school, together with 2
bolls of meal annually, by the late William Duff, Esq.
DIRLET CASTLE. See Halkirk.
DIRLETON, a parish in East Lothian, on the
south coast of the frith of Forth, measuring from the
mouth of the Peffer burn, at the head of Aberlady
bay, its extreme western point, to its junction with
North Berwick parish, at a point of the coast oppo-
site Lamb islet, its extreme eastern point, 5.1 miles
in a direct line. Its coast-line, however, is much
greater, owing to its sinuosities. Its greatest breadth
from north to south is 44 miles. It is bounded on
the north by the frith of Forth ; on the east by the
parishes of North Berwick and Preston ; on the
south by Athelstaneford and Aberlady ; and on the
west by Aberlady bay, and the frith. Along the
coast, and within a short distance of the shore, are
three little rocky islets, viz., Fiddrie or Fetteray,
Eyebrocky, and the Lamb. The coast presents a
broad strip of flat sandy holms or links, edged on the
landward side by richly-cultivated fields, and to sea-
ward by a fine sandy beach. Dirleton common, which
lies between the village and the sea, is perhaps the
finest coursing-field in Scotland. The soil is a dry
sand, covered with a smooth short sward, without
any admixture of stones. It is likewise free of fences.
The greyhounds of this parish, and the neighbouring
one of North Berwick, are highly esteemed by sports-
men. Towards Gulane point, the coast is rocky ;
and considerable encroachments have been made
upon the arable land in this quarter by the blowing
of the sand. The total superficial extent of the par-
ish is 7,500 Scots acres,, of which about 5,300 are
arable, and nearly 2,000 are occupied with links and
sandy hillocks. The valued rent is £10,262 Scots.
The real rent, towards the end of last century, was
£6,000. It is now nearly double of that sum. As-
sessed property, in 181.5, £16,768 The village of
Dirleton, situated near the centre of the parish, on
the road from Edinburgh to North Berwick, is one
of the most beautiful in Scotland. Mrs. Hamilton
Nisbet Ferguson, the principal proprietor in the par-
ish, has rebuilt the greater number of the houses
here in the cottage orn&e style. Each cottage is
surrounded with its own plot of flowers and shrubs ;
and the whole are scattered along two sides of the
village green, of which a third side is occupied with
the magnificent remains of Dirleton castle, and its
fine garden and bowling-green. Dirleton has a po-
pulation of 92 families The next village in point ol
importance is Gulane, or Golyn, which gave name to
the parish until 1612. It lies about 2 miles to the
west of Dirleton, and is nearly surrounded with
sandy links. It is well-known to gentlemen of the
turf for its training establishments for race-horses.
— The other hamlets are Fenton, Kingston, and
Congleton In the 12th century, the Anglo-Nor-
man family of De Vallibus or De Vaux, obtained a
grant of the manors of Golyn and Dirleton, with
part of Fenton. During the reign of William the
Lion, William de Vaux bestowed the church of
Golyn — rated at 80 marks in the Taxatio— on the
monks of Dryburgh. In the same reign there was
a chapel dedicated to St. Nicholas on Fiddrie isle in
this parish. In 1298, De Vaux's castle at Dirleton
was besieged by Antony Beck, the martial bishop of
Durham, in behalf of Edward I., to whom it surren-
dered after a desperate defence. During the reign of
Alexander III., a chapel was founded at Dirleton by
Alexander de Vallibus ; and, in 1444, a collegiate
church was founded at Dirleton by Sir Walter Haly-
burton, who, in 1392, had succeeded his father in the
estate of Dirleton, which had passed into the family
by a female heiress during the reign of David II. Sir
Walter married the daughter of the regent Albany,
and, in 1440, was created Lord Dirleton. The eldest
daughter of Patrick, 6th Lord Dirleton, who died in
1506, carried the title and estate into the family of
Ruthven. The castle and estate, says Sir Walter
Scott, in his -Border Antiquities,' " was the bribe
which the last unhappy Earl of Gowrie held out to
the cupidity of Logan, his associate in the memorable
conspiracy. It seems to have been coveted by that
person in the highest degree. ' I care not,' says
Logan in his correspondence, ' for all the other land
I have in the kingdom, if I may grip of Dirleton, for
I esteem it the pleasantest dwelling in Scotland.'
But Dirleton, included in Ruthven's forfeiture,
passed to other hands, and was bestowed on Sir
Thomas Erskine, who had lent the King active as-
sistance against the efforts of the conspirators. He
was created Viscount Fenton and Baron Dirleton. In
the civil wars, Dirleton was for a time occupied by a
party of the Scottish guerilla, called then moss-
troopers. Monk marched against them with four pieces
of ordnance and a mortar ; he was joined by Lam-
bert, and besieged the place, which having surren-
dered at discretion, the captain of the moss-troopers — .
one Waite — and two of his followers, were executed
by martial law. This was in the year 1650. Dirle-
ton castle, became, after the Restoration, the pro-
perty of Sir John Nisbet, king's advocate. His male
line having become extinct in the person of the late
Mr. Nisbet of Dirleton, the property descended to his
daughter, the present Mrs. Ferguson of Raith." Its
massive structure, and the peculiar and praiseworthy
care taken to preserve it from rude encroachment,
by the tasteful proprietor, are likely to preserve this
noble and graceful relic of feudal ages to many future
generations. The whole has been enclosed with a
handsome wall, which includes within its circuit, not
only the whole of the ruins, but also a fine bowling-
green, and a handsome flower-garden, to all of which
access is readily granted to visiters of respectable ap-
pearance and deportment. Grose has given a poor
view of Dirleton castle. It has had more justice done
it in the ' Border Antiquities.' We know not a love-
lier scene than is presented by this village, — with
its fine green, its noble pile of ivy-clad nuns, and the
distant rock-gemmed frith, — especially in a summer
eve, or when the light; —
11 The .silver light, which, hallowing tree and bower,
Sheds beauty and deep softness on the whole,"—
is resting upon the fading landscape. The castle
DIV
319
DOL
might be aptly enough apostrophized in the words of
an anonymous poet : —
" The grandeur of the olden time
Mantled thy towers with pride sublime.
Enlivening all who near'd them ;
From Hippnrris and Sherris sack,
Palmer, or pilgrim, torn'd not back,
Before thy cellars cheer'd them.
Since thine unbroken early day.
How many a race hath passed away,
In charnel-vanlt to moulder ! —
Yet Nature round thee breathes an air
Serenely bright and softly fair,
To shame the awed beholder.
The past is but a gorgeous dream.
And time elides by us like a stream,
While musing on thy story j
And sorrow prompts a deep alas!
That like a pageant thou should pass
To wreck all human glory !"
— This parish is in the presbytery of Haddington, and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patroness, Mrs.
Ferguson. Stipend ,£293 18s. Id. ; glebe 10 acres.
Unappropriated teinds £335 2s. 4d. Schoolmaster's
salary .£34 4s. 4d., with £33 fees. There are 2
private schools.
DIVIE (The), a small river in the county of
Moray. Its principal branch rises on the borders of
Strathspey. After a rapid course, it falls into the
Findhorn river. " The scenery of the Divie," says
Mr. Anderson, ". from the spot where it leaps into
its glen, in a wild waterfall, to its j unction with the
Findhorn, is exquisitely beautiful."
DOCHART (Loch), a lake in Perthshire, in the
parish of Killin. It is about 3 miles in length from
east to west, and contains a floating islet, 51 feet
long, and 29 broad. It appears to have been gradually
formed — hke others of the same kind — by the natu-
ral intertexture of the roots and stems of some wa-
ter-plants. It moves before the wind, and may be
pushed about with poles. Cattle going unsuspect-
ingly to feed upon it are liable to be carried on a
voyage round the lake. On another, but stationary
island, stand the ruins of a castle, the ancient resi-
dence of the Campbells of Loch Awe. It is embowered
with wood, and has a very romantic appearance.
The river Fillan runs into the west end of the loch.
The river Dochart issues from the east end of the
loch, and running east about 8 miles through Glen-
Dochart, joins the Lochy at Killin, when both fall
into Loch Tay.
DOLLAR, a parish in the shire of Clackmannan;
bounded on the north by the parish of Glendevon ;
on the east by Muckhart and Fossa way parishes ; on
the west by the parish of Tillicoultry ; and on the
south by the parish of Clackmannan. Its length
from north to south is about 3 miles, and its greatest
breadth about 1± mile. Its general aspect is that of
a beautiful plain or valley, having the Ochils for its
northern boundary, and a gently rising ground con-
fining it on the south. The river Devon runs through
it in a meandering course from east to west. The
central part of the parish, in which the town is situ-
ated, forms a somewhat large and slightly sloping
plain, with a southern exposure, and beautifully in-
terspersed with hamlets, farm-houses, and enclosures.
The soil of that portion of the parish which extends
from the hills to near the Devon is light and gravelly ;
on the banks of the river the land is more moist and
clayey. The Ochils afford excellent pasture for
sheep, and the mutton and wool produced here are
of a superior quality. The parish abounds in excel-
lent coal, which is worked in several places and ex-
ported in large quantities to considerable distances
in Perthshire. Iron also abounds, and veins of cop-
per and lead were formerly wrought in the Ochil
hills a little way above the town of Dollar. The
ores are said to have been exported to some extent
to Holland. Silver has likewise been found in a
glen to the west of Castle-Campbell, and pebbles of
some value are occasionally picked up on the top of
a hill called the White Wisp. A large bleachfield
on the banks of the Devon has existed since 1787.
Fairs are held at Dollar on the 2d Monday of May,
the 3d Thursday of June, the 2d Monday of August,
and the 3d Monday of October. The greater part
of the parish formerly belonged to the Argyle family,
but in 1 605 the whole property was feued out with
the exception of Castle-Campbell and two neighbour-
ing farms. Two ancient sepulchral tumuli are situat-
ed at a short distance from the town of Dollar. One
of them, on being opened about fifty years ago, was
found to contain two urns filled with human bones.
The most interesting remain of antiquity, however,
is Castle-Campbell : which see The town of
Dollar is pleasantly situated on a rising ground in the
eastern part of the parish, and is 12 miles north-east
from Stirling, and about the same distance north-
west from Dunfermline, and south-west from Kin-
ross. The road from Stirling to the latter town
passes through it. Population of the parish in 1801,
693; in 1831, 1,447. Assessed property £1,629..
The population is not increasing. By a census taken
in 1836 it had fallen to 1,367, of which 1,036 belong-
ed to the Establishment and 274 to other denomina-
tions.— The parish of Dollar is in the presbytery of
Stirling, and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron,
Tait of Harvieston. Stipend, .£158 10s. 7d. ; glebe
£18. Church built in 1775; sittings 340 An
Original Seceder congregation was estabUshed here
in 1827. Church built in 1829 at a cost of about
±"400; sittings 264. Stipend, £80, without manse
or glebe The parochial schoolmaster has a salary
of £'25 17s. 9id., with £12 school-fees, and £6 14s.
of other emoluments. Average attendance 35. — The
principal educational institution in the parish, how-
ever, is the Dollar academy, which was estabUshed
in 1819, by a fund amounting, it is said, to nearly
£80,000, left by Captain John M'Nabb of Mile-end,
Stepney, in the county of Middlesex. The academy
is an elegant building. It is conducted by seven
teachers and three assistants, and the branches
taught are English, writing, arithmetic, Latin, Greek,
modern languages, mathematics, drawing, and sewing.
The number of scholars attending the academy in
1834 was 212. The management of the academy is
vested in the minister and kirk-session of Dollar.*
* The parish of Dollar is distinguished as having been the
scene of the labours of one ot the early Scottish martyrs.
T'homas Forrest, who suffered death on the Castle-hill in Edin-
burgh, in 1533, was vicar of Dollar. The following account of
this interesting person is given by Dr. M'Cree: "The other
person who suffered at that time was Thomas Forrest, com-
monly called the vicar of Dollar. I shall add some particulars
concerning this excellent man, which are not to be found in the
common histories. He was of the house of Forret, or Forest,
in Fife, and his father had been master-stabler to James IV.
After acquiring the rudiments of grammar in Scotland, he was
sent abroad by the kindness of a noble woman, and prosecuted
his education at Cologne. Returning to his native country,
he was admitted a canon regular of St. Colme's Inch. It hap-
pened that a dispute arose between the abbot and the canons,
respecting the allowance due to them, and the latter got the
book of foundation to examine into their rights. With the
view of inducing them to part with it, the abbot gave them .:.
volume of Augustine's works which was in the monastery.
' Oh happy aud blessed was that book to me,' did Forrest ofleu
say, ' by which I came to the knowledge of the truth !' Haviug
applied himself to the reading of the scriptures, he was the
means of converting a number of the young canous ; * but the
old bottles,' he used to say, ' would not receive the new wine.*
The abbot frequently advised him to keep bis mind to himself,
else he would incur puuishment. * I thank you, my lord,' was
his answer, * ye are a friend to my body, but not to my soul.'
He was afterwards admitted to the vicarage of Dollar, in which
situation he rendered himself obnoxious to his brethren, by his
diligence in instructing his parish, aud his benevolence iu tree-
ing them from oppressive exactions. When the agents of the
pope came iuto his bounds to sell indulgences, he said, ' Parish-
ioners, I am bound to speak the truth to you. There is no
DOL
320
DON
DOLLAR-LAW, a mountain on the boundary-
line of Drummelzier and Manor parishes in Peebles-
shire. It rises 2,840 feet above the level of the sea,
and commands an extensive view over the Lothians,
Berwickshire, and Northumberland.
DOLLAS. See Dallas.
DOLPHINSTON, a hamlet in the shire of Had-
dington, and parish of Prestonpans ; 2 miles west of
Tranent; on the high road from Edinburgh to Had-
dington. Here are the ruins of a family-seat of the
Earls of Hyndford.
DOLPltlNTON, a parish situated in the eastern
part of the upper ward of Lanarkshire. It is bounded
on the north by the parish of Dunsyre; on the west
by Walston; and on the south and south-east by
Linton and Kirkurd in Peebles-shire. It is a small
parish, extending three miles in length, from east to
west, by 2| in breadth, and contains 2,926 statute
acres. It is in a high-lying district, and contains a
mountain named Dolphinton-hill, which is computed
to rise 1,550 feet above the level of the sea; and
which may be considered to form one of the links of
the great mountain-chain which binds the island
from St. Abb's Head to Ailsa Craig. With the ex-
ception of a conical mount named Keir-hill, and
Dolphinton above named, the most of the parish is
arable, although the most of it lies at the elevation
of from 700 to 800 feet above the level of the sea.
The soil is generally of a dry friable earth or sandy
loam. It is intersected by the road from Biggar
to Edinburgh, and by the road to Peebles by Lin-
ton. Formerly, a weekly market and two annual
fairs were held at Dolphinton ; but these have long
since fallen into desuetude; the corn, lint, waulk-
mills, &c, which once existed in the parish, have
also passed away ; and, altogether, by comparing
the present reality with charters still in existence,
it would appear that the parish is now a place of
much less consequence than it was in the olden time.
Population, in 1801, 231; in 1831, 305.— Dolphinton
is in the presbytery of Biggar, and synod of Lothian
and Tweeddale. Stipend ±"158 6s. 7d. ; glebe £27
10s. The church is a very old building; sittings 140.
Patron, Lord Douglas. The salary of the parochial
schoolmaster is .£26 per annum, with £12 of school-
fees — Dolphinton is understood to have received its
name from the acquirement of the property by Dol-
fme, the eldest brother of Cospatrick, 1st Earl of
Dunbar, sometime in the reign of Alexander I. How
long it remained in the possession of Dolfine's descend-
ants is not known, but it is certain that at an early
period the manor and patronage of the church be-
came a pertinent of the baronial territory of Both well.
After remaining for a time in the possession of the
house of Douglas, Dolphinton reverted to the Crown.
In 1483, James III. presented it to Sir James Ram-
say, one of the most accomplished of his favourites.
After the assassination of James, Ramsay was denuded
of the property, and James IV. conferred it, in 1488,
on the master of his household, Patrick Hepburn,
Lord Hales. In 1492, Hepburn exchanged Dolphin-
ton and other lands, with the Earl of Angus, for cer-
tain territories in Liddesdale, including the important
castle of Hermitage; but the superiority was still
retained by the Hepburns till 1567, when it was for-
pardon for our sins that can come to us, either from the pope or
any other, hut only by the blood of Christ.' He composed a
short catechism. It was his custom to rise at six o'clock iu the
morning and study to mid-day. He committed three chapters
of the Bible to memory every day, and made his servant hear
him repeat them at night. He was often summoned before the
bishops of Dunkeld and St. Andrews. These facts were com-
municated by his servant, Andrew Kirkie, in a letter to John
Davidson, who inserted them in his accountof Scottish martyrs.
An amusing account of the vicar's examination before the
bishop of Dunkeld may be seen in Fox ; and an interesting ac-
count of his trial in Pitscottle."— Life of John Knox, p. 388, last
edition.
feited along with the other domains of the ambitious
and unprincipled Earl of Bothwell. It afterwards
passed into the hands of Francis Stewart, Earl of
Bothwell, but again reverted to the Crown upon his
attainder in 1593. Soon after this the ancestors of
the present house of Douglas became proprietors of the
manor. During a long series of years subsequently,
however, and up till the middle of the 18th century,
the most of the parish was owned by a family of the
name of Brown, who were succeeded by marriage, in
1755, by Mr. Kenneth M'Kenzie. It is worthy of
notice that Major Learmont, one of the pious and
devoted soldiers of the covenant, possessed the pro-
perty of Newholm, in the parish of Dolphinton, and
was an elder in the congregation. After the battle
of Pentland Hills — in which he commanded the horse,
and only escaped after feats of the most desperate
valour — his property was forfeited, but it was bought
back by his relative, the laird of Wishaw, for behoof
of his family. Notwithstanding that Learmont was
one of those who were ' ' hunted like partridges upon
the hills," it was his lot eventually to escape his
enemies, and he died peacefully in his 88th year in
1693. His remains rest in Dolphinton churchyard.*
DOLPHISTON, a small village in the shire of
Roxburgh, parish of Oxnam. It is on the banks of
the Jed, at the distance of 5J miles south-south-east
of Jedburgh. Here is an ancient tower said to have
been built by one Dolphus, from whom it took its
name. The walls are from 8 to 10 feet thick, built
of hewn stone, and so closely cemented with lime
that it is found more difficult to obtain stones from
it for building than from a quarry. It has been ex-
tensive, and divided into small apartments by stone
partitions. Several vaulted apertures are in the
middle of the walls, large enough for a small bed,
and some of them so long as to be used by the tenants
for holding their ladders. On a rising ground, a
little to the south, there is an area of a chain square,
which is said to have been a watch-tower or light-
house, and seems to imply that Dolphiston tower
had been used as a fort or place of refuge.
DON (The), a river in Aberdeenshire, next to
the Dee in note and magnitude; though, like it also,
of little commercial importance. It rises on the skirts
of Ben Aven, 6 miles west of Curgarff, amongst
the mountains which bound Aberdeenshire on the
south-west, at the head of Strath-Don, and which
divide it from the head of Strath-Deveron in Banff-
shire. Its source is considerably lower than that of
the Dee : the altitude is 1,640 feet above sea-level.
Its course to a great distance, though not far from
that of the Dee, is more towards the north where
the country is more level : hence it assumes a char-
acter in almost every respect the reverse of the Dee.
Running eastward in a very sinuous and by no means
rapid course, through the whole breadth of the
country, it flows into the German ocean on the north
* Regarding- the perils and adventures of this pious soldier,
the following facts are related : *' For sixteen years every en-
deavour was made to secure the major's person, but he had a
vault dug under ground which long proved the means of safety
to him. It entered from a small dark cellar, which was used as
a pantry, at the foot of the inside stair of the old mansion-house,
descended below the foundation of the building, and issued at
an abrupt bank of the Medwin, 46 yards distant from the house,
where a feal-dike screened it from view. When the noise of
the cavalry reached the major's attentive ear, the blade of the
tongs was applied to a small aperture fitted for the purpose of
raising a flat stone, which neatly covered the entrance to the
vault ; and before a door was opened the covenanter was safe.
Tradition says that the man-servant was three times led out
bliudfolded to be shot, because he would not betray the secret.
Learmont having again taken the field at Bothwell brig, exposed
himself anew to the fury of the persecutors. By the treachery
of a maid-servant he was at last apprehended, and ordered for
execution ; but the sentence of death was commuted for impri-
sonment on the Bass." [Note to New Statistical Account. J —
The stones of this vault were long afterwards taken to build the
garden wall, and no trace of it was of course found when New-
holm.house was last rebuilt*
DON
321
DOO
side of Aberdeen. Its whole course is about 62
miles ; though, in a direct line from its source to its
termination, the distance is only 41 miles. In its
originative course through the parish of Strathdon,
which it nearly divides into two equal parts, it is
joined, from both sides, by 7 or 8 minor rivers or
burns, separated from each other by considerable
hills, and most of them running through deep hol-
lows and glens. The principal of these are the
Earnon and the Nochtie. All these burns abound
with excellent trout ; and salmon is even here very
frequently found in the Don, at least towards the
lower end of this parish. Turning northwards, and
dividing for a short distance the parish of Glenbucket
from part of Migvie, it receives from the latter the
Deskry, and from the former the Bucket. Then
again flowing eastwards, it passes through the par-
ish of Towie ; and winding northwards, reinforced
by other tributaries, round Gorieshill, it at once be-
comes remarkably enlarged near Westside, after
which it resumes its eastern route, dividing various
parishes, particularly Forbes and Alford, from the
latter of which, on the south, it derives the waters
of the Lochel, the most considerable tributary it has
yet received: see that article. In passing hitherto
through the high parts of the district of Alford, the
Don flows through a narrow gullet amongst the west-
ern mountains, while its banks are now partly wooded.
Perpetually changing its course to the north and even
the west, to the east and then through Monymusk
parish to the south, the next considerable tributary
which there enlarges it is the Ton burn from the
south, when immediately it turns to the north again
between Kemnay and part of Chapel-Garioch par-
ishes, and arrives at a point a little to the south of
the royal burgh of Inverury, where, on its northern
bank, stands the Roman Catholic college of Aquhor-
ties, a beautiful and delightfully situated edifice.
This point is about 16 miles from the mouth of the
river, and its vicinity constitutes, perhaps, the most
interesting as well as important part of its whole
course. Here, at the Bass, a conical mount of
considerable elevation standing in the midst of the
confluence, it is joined by its principal tributary the
river Urie, from the district of Strathbogie. See
articles Bass of Inverury and The Urie.
The Don, here very much increased by the water
of the Urie, notwithstanding the previous diversion
of a large portion of its waters into the Inverury
canal, flows southward from the Bass, between
the parish and the low lands of Kintore on the
south, and the mountainous part of Keithhall with
Kinkell on the north. It divides, for a short dis-
■ tance, into two branches, which reunite, enclosing a
river-island to the north of the royal burgh of Kin-
tore. Between Fintry and Dyce it is bordered by
mountains on both sides, with valuable plantations
on the northern or Fintry side. It then runs south-
wards, still dividing the parishes on its line, to old
Machar parish in the freedom of the city of Aber-
deen, whence it turns to the east, by the city or old
town, to its confluence with the sea, little more than
a mile to the northward of the Dee, where it forms
a kind of harbour, into which small craft may enter
in safety, but where no trade of any importance can
be carried on.*
As this river runs wTith considerable rapidity dur-
ing the last 8 miles of its course, and as the rocks at
its mouth confine it to a narrow channel, and give it
* " About a century ago," says Mr. Kenuedyin his ' Annals
of Aberdeen,' " the channel of the Don near the town was al-
tered, and the stream diverted straight into the sea about a mile
further northward than its ancient efflux." In a note, he adds,
" 1'robabiy at some very remote period, Don had continued its
former course still further southward down the hollow of the
links, till it united with Dee in the harbour, and both together
1.
there a gloomy aspect, the idea of its flowing rapidly
through a rugged and mountainous country, where
no space is left for forming even a commodious
road along its banks, is at first induced ; but after
passing upwards for about a mile beyond the rocky
chasm where was built the spacious, stately, and
attractive Gothic arch, constituting the celebrated
Brig o' Balgownie [which see] and up to whose
locaUty alone the Don is navigable even for small
craft, the hills recede so far from the river as to
form spacious haughs or level valleys on either side,
through which it winds in a slow majestic course for
many miles. Nor is the prospect here uniform, but
agreeably diversified ; the hills above Inverury ap-
proach close to the river, which seems to have forced
its way with difficulty through them, but all at once
it opens into another spacious plain, from which the
hills recede on either hand to a great distance, and
then close again ; and, after another temporary con-
finement among rocks and hills and woods, the river
once more waters another plain of great extent.
Such is the general character of the Don, — nowhere
rapid, but in general flowing through level fields so
little elevated above its usual surface, that, when
violent rain falls, it bursts its bounds at once, and
covers a great extent of country, which then appears
to be an immense body of water interspersed with
islands, houses, trees, and other rural objects. Too
often on these occasions it commits extensive and
calamitous depredations, — sweeping off whole fields
of corn, and leaving nothing behind but want and
desolation. The havoc it occasioned in August,
1829, will not be soon forgotten. Yet still its vales
are so fertile, and the crops they yield so early and
so excellent, since ' a rood o' Don' — as our readers
have already been informed — is ' worth twa o' Dee,'
— that the husbandman is again and again tempted to
risk his all on these precarious fields.
The Don has some valuable salmon-fishings,
though by no means so valuable as those of the Dee.
A statement of the actual quantity caught in either
river, apart from the produce of the sea in this
vicinity, cannot however be given, as the Don fish-
ings are held by individuals who have also other fish-
ings, and are without any particular motive for dis-
tinguishing the portion contributed by each. The
fishing of a small space of the Don's banks, however,
not more than 300 or 400 yards in length, was not
long ago rented at £2,000. The coast of Don river
is fished by cruives, hang-nets, net and coble, stake-
nets, and bag-nets. The average produce of the
salmon and grilse fisheries on this river, for seven
years previous to 1828, was 299 barrels; but the
average for the seven subsequent years rose to 419
barrels. Between the years 1790 and 1800, the
yearly average number of salmon and grilse, caught
in the Don, amounted to 43,240 ; while 36,240 was
the average number caught in the Dee during the
same period. But between 1813 and 1824, while the
average number of fish caught in the Don was 40 67 7,
the average of the Dee fishings was 51,862.
DONAN CASTLE. See Kintaix.
DOON (The), a river which traverses Ayrshire,
and, during the whole of its course in that county,
forms the boundary-line between the districts of
Carrick and Kyle. It is popularly said to originate
in Loch Doon, but really rises in two mountain-
streams from which that lake receives its principal
surplus waters. One of these streams, called Gal-
would form one stream into the ocean. Such conjecture is in
some measure confirmed by the works of Ptolemy and Richard
of Cirencester, there beiug no such river as Don delineated iu
their maps, or even mentioned iu their tables, while Diva (Dee)
and Ituna (Ytban) in the district of I he Taixali, are particularly
noticed. In the earlier records of the burgh, the river Don is
distinguished solely by the name of Aqua Borealis."
DOO
322
DOO
low-lane, wells up among the broad boundary moun-
tain-ridge of Kirkcudbrightshire, within half-a-mile of
the remote source of the Galloway Dee ; the other,
called Eagton-lane, issues from Loch Enoch, at the
boundary between Kirkcudbrightshire and Ayrshire ;
and both pursue a northerly course of about 7 miles,
till, at its southern extremity, they fall into Loch
Doon. At the northern extremity, whence the
united streams now called the Doon emerge, two
tunnels, cut out of the solid rock, receive the river,
[see next article,] and pour it impetuously down
into a deep gorge 300 feet deep, only about 30 feet
wide, and a mile in length. For 2 miles from the
loch, the river flows due north ; and it then bends
gradually round, and, for about 7 miles, flows to the
north-west. Over all this distance, with the excep-
tion of the fine vale of Dalmellington on its north-
ern bank, the grounds which press upon its verge
are, for the most part, heathy or unwooded knolls
and hills of chilly and uninviting aspect. About 2
miles below Patna it again bends, and, over a dis-
tance of 5 miles, flows westward ; and then, a little
below Cassilis-house, flows northward and to the
north of west, till it falls, 3 miles south of Ayr, into
the frith of Clyde. But, over its whole course from
below Patna to its embouchure, it describes numer-
ous curvatures, sinuously wending round many a syl-
van knoll, and rioting at will among the beauties of
a delly and undulating landscape. Here its channel
is, for the most part, ploughed into a huge furrow
from 10 to 200 feet, and, at the top, from 30 to 150
yards wide, the sides of which are richly clothed in
natural wood and plantation. Such especially is its
appearance both above and below the point where
the river is spanned by ' the Auld Brig o' Doon,' and
flows past ' the haunted kirk of Alloway,' and over
all the space which was most familiar to the eye of
the Ayrshire bard.
DOON (Loch), a lake in Ayrshire, about 22
miles from the town of Ayr, and 4 miles from the
village of Dalmellington. It discharges its waters by
that romantic stream, the water of Doon, whose ' banks
and braes ' have been rendered classic by the poetic
pen of our Scottish bard ; and near the margin of
which his countrymen have reared a monument to
his memory worthy of one of Scotland's greatest
sons. Loch Doon is about 8 miles in length, and
from half-a-mile to three quarters in breadth. Its
form is nearly that of the letter L ; the head of the
lake corresponding with the top of the letter, and
its lower extremity — where it discharges its waters
— with the end of the horizontal line at the bottom.
The shores of this lake are wild and solitary, and
almost entirely devoted to sheep-pasture. The
mountains which enclose it are in many places of
considerable height, especially at the top of the lake
where they may be said to be lofty, and where their
outline is varied and beautiful. These are the Star
mountains, on the borders of the stewartry of Kirk-
cudbright, and from the base of which on this side,
the Doon may be said to take its rise ; while the
Dee, which flows into the Solway frith, takes its
rise on the opposite side.* The level of the waters
of this lake has been considerably lowered from what
it formerly was by the operations of the proprietors,
and a portion of its bed laid dry. This— as in the
case of Loch Leven in Kinross-shire — has lessened
unquestionably the beauty of the scenery, by the
exposure of tracts of barren sand and gravel, for-
merly covered with water ; and — like the operations
in Kinross-shire — has afforded no very useful result,
* There is a singular coincidence between the names of these
two rivers, the Doou and the Dee, which thus havo their ori-
gin so near, and those of the Don and the Dee, neighbour
streams in Aberdeenshire.
so far as the ground on the shores of the lake is
concerned. But, unlike those of Loch Leven, the
operations on Loch Doon were not for the purpose of
receiving ground ; they had a more useful object in
view, and have been attended with more beneficial
results. Along the banks of the river Doon there
are some very extensive tracts of meadow-ground,
which were, after heavy rains, liable to be overflowed
by the accumulated waters from the lake. By per-
forating a bed of rock over which the lake used to
discharge itself, and forming tunnels, the usual level
of its waters has been lowered ; and, by erecting
sluices, the proprietors are enabled to regulate the
quantity of water which flows into the river, and
thus to prevent the damage to the grounds upon its
banks which used formerly to occur. These opera-
tions were executed by the Earl of Cassillis, and the
late Mr. M'Adam of Craigengillan, the proprietors
of the lands on either side of the lake. — On a small
island at the head of Loch Doon are the ruins of an
ancient castle : it is constructed of large square stones,
and appears to have been a lofty tower of an octangu-
lar form. Of the history of this structure, or its
origin, we have not been able to obtain any satisfac-
tory account. The island, however, which is near-
est to the Carrick side of the lake, now belongs to
the Earl of Cassilis. In the early part of the 13th
century, the lands of Straiton — which are bounded
by a part of the lake — were held by John de Carrick,
a son of Duncan, Earl of Carrick. This baron was
engaged, in 1235, in a rebellion of the Galloway-
men, and committed injuries on several churches
within the diocese of Glasgow, which subsequently
cost him a grant of part of his lands, and the patron-
age of the church of Straiton ; but whether he or
his successors had any connection with the castle on
the island, we have been unable to ascertain. In
1823, several boats or canoes of great antiquity were
found sunk in the lake near this island. They were
all formed entirely from a single oak-tree hollowed
out ; and were shaped somewhat like a fishing-cob-
ble. Three of them were raised, and two of them
are still preserved here ; and for that purpose have
been sunk in a pool of water, a short way from the
margin of the lake. One of these measured 20 feet
in length, by 3 feet 3 inches broad; the second, 16^
feet, by 2 feet 16 inches; the third, 22 feet, by 3
feet 10 inches. They are supposed to have lain in
the water between 800 and 900 years. These hav-
ing been found near the castle, would lead us to
suppose that they had been in some way connected
with it ; . but their construction is certainly to be at-
tributed to an earlier people than those by whom the
castle was built. After leaving the lake, the water "
of Doon flows for about a mile through a narrow
gulley or ravine, the scenery of which is very re-
markable. A lofty ridge of hills seems here to have
been rent asunder to afford an exit to the waters of
the lake ; and the rocky walls, which enclose this
singular hollow, yet exhibit marks on either side of
their former proximity. A walk has been con-
structed along the edge of the river, throughout the
whole length of this ravine, by which an easy op-
portunity is given to strangers of viewing its roman-
tic and picturesque scenery. On either hand, the
rocks rise to a great height, almost perpendicular, but
rugged and broken, and having their sides and their
summits magnificently festooned and ornamented
with a great variety of copse and trees. The scen-
ery is all of a close character, but varied and inter-
esting, changing with every turn of the walk ; now
presenting a rude vista of rock and wood, and again
a mural precipice which seems to bar farther progress ;
while the effect of the whole is heightened by the
music of the river rushing along its broken channel,
DO 11
323
DOll
and the winds among the branches of the trees,
which, "in the leafy month of June," almost ex-
clude a sight of the sky.
DORARY, a piece of hilly ground in the shire of
Caithness, though locally situated in the shire of
Sutherland. It belongs to the parish of Thurso, al-
though it is not within 4 miles of any part of that
parish. It is a part of the bishop's lands, and was a
shieling belonging to the bishops of Caithness. The
walls of the old chapel, called Gavin's Kirk, or
Temple-Gavin, are still standing. The view from
its summit is very grand, and extensive.
DORE HOLM, one of the Shetland isles ; con-
stituting part of the parish of Northmaven. It is
situated in a spacious bay to the southward ; and
derives its name from a remarkable arch which passes
through its centre, which is so lofty and capacious as
to admit the boatmen to fish under it, and is lighted
by an opening at the top.
DORES, a parish in Inverness-shire, on the banks
of Loch Ness, which bounds it on the west side. On
the north it has Inverness ; on the east Daviot ; and
Boleskine on the south. It extends 25 miles in length,
and about 3 in average breadth. A district of the
parish, containing about 20 inhabitants, lies terri-
torially within the parish of Boleskine. The sur-
face is mountainous, having a narrow valley running
nearly the whole length of the parish. The soil is
light. The proportion of arable land is very small,
by far the greater part being fit only for sheep-pas-
ture. Besides Loch Ness, [see that article,] which
with its environs furnishes a beautiful landscape,
there are two or three smaller lakes in the district
which abound with trout. At the distance of 3 miles
from Loch Ness are the vestiges of a fort called
Dun-Richuan, or ' the Castle of the King of the
Ocean,' a name which it is supposed to have re-
ceived at a period when the king of Norway and
Denmark was master of the sea. A little to the east
of this fort there are several cairns, and one almost
equal in size to all the rest : Tradition says, that
Fingal here engaged in battle Ashi, the son of the
king of Norway, and killed him, which gave the
name of Drum- Ashi, or ' Ashi's hill,' to the scene
where this event happened. About 9 miles distant,
there is another fort called Dun-Dardell, which is
said to have been one of the many forts in the great
valley, extending from the German ocean at Inver-
ness, to the Atlantic at Fort- William, that were in-
tended for making signals, by fire, of the enemy's
approach, during the times of the Danish and Nor-
wegian incursions. The rocky ground under this
fort is particularly grand. Population, in 1801,
1,313; in 1831, 1,736. Assessed property, in 1815,
.£3,264. Houses 365 This parish is in the presby-
tery of Inverness and svnod of Moray. Patron, the
Earl of Cawdor. Stipend £141 2s. 8d. ; glebe £8
3s. 4d. Unappropriated teinds £18 17s. 9d. Church
built in 1 827-28 ; sittings 500. There is a preach-
ing-station at Torness, in the district of Stratherrick,
in the south-western extremity of the parish
Schoolmaster's salary £30, with £10 fees. There
are 2 private schools.
DORLIN FERRY. See Morvern.
DORNIE. See Kintaeg.
DORNOCH,* a parish in the county of Suther-
* " The town and parish of Dornoch derive their name from
the Gaelic words Dorn-Erch, which signifies ' a horse's foot' or
'hoof;' concerning which the current tradition is as follows.
About the year 1259, the Danes and Norwegians, having made
a descent on this coast, were attacked by William, Thane or
Karl of Sutherland, a quarter of a mile to the eastward of this
town. Here the Danish general was 6lain, and his army
beaten, and forced to retire to their ships, which were not far
distant. The Thane greatly signalized himself upon this occa-
sion ; and. appears, by his personal valour and exertion, to have
contributed very much to determine the fate of the day
land, extending 9 miles along the frith of Dornoch,
and from north-west to south-east about 15 miles.
It is bounded on the north by Rogart, and by the
Loch of Fleet, which separates it from Golspie ; on
the south-east and south by the Dornoch frith ; and on
the westby Criech. The district of Kainauld and Rhi-
musaig is isolated from the rest of the parish by the
Fleet, and surrounded by the parishes of Golspie and
Rogart. The shores are flat and sandy, but the sur-
face gradually rises as it approaches the hilly districts
towards the north and west. The soil is sandy, ap-
proaching to loam as it recedes from the coast. The
small river Evlix or Evelicks, which rises in Strath
Aehvaich, and falls into the frith near the Meikle-
ferry, after a course of 9 miles, affords a few salmon
and trout. In the hilly district there are three or
four small lakes, the largest of which is about a mile
in length. There are several quarries of whinstone,
and one of excellent freestone near the town of Dor-
noch. Upon an eminence not far from the Little
ferry, is the old castle of Skelbo. Not far from
the Earl's cross, mentioned in a previous note,
is the spot where an unhappy creature was burned
in 1722, for the imaginary crime of witchcraft, in
transforming her daughter into a pony, and getting
her shod by the Devil! This was the last instance
of these frantic executions in the North of Scotland ;
as that, in the South, was at Paisley, in 1697. f
Population of the town and parish in 1801,2,362;
in 1831, 3,380. Houses, in 1831, 628. Assessed
property £3,484. Besides the town of Dornoch, there
are two villages within the parish, — the fishing vil-
lage of Embo, with a population of about 200, and
the inland village of Clashmore, which is not so large.
— This parish is in the presbytery of Dornoch and
synod of Sutherland and Caithness. Patron, the
Duke of Sutherland. Stipend £266 15s. 4d. ; glebe
£10. The parish-church is the renewed cathedral
church of Dornoch described in the following article.
Sittings 900 Schoolmaster's stipend £36 6s. There
are 6 private schools.
Dornoch, a royal burgh in the above parish, is
situated on the north coast of the frith of Dornoch,
nearly opposite to the burgh of Tain, which lies on
the south side of the frith. It is 201 miles north by
west of Edinburgh ; and 12 south-west of Golspie.
The population, in 1831, was 504; the number of
houses 109; and the assessed property, in 1815,
£3,180. Although within a mile of the Great North
road, the municipal commissioners report that " there
appears to be no inducement for so altering the line
as to make that road pass through the town." It is
While he singled out the Danish general, and gallantly fought
his way onward, the Thane being by some accident disarmed,
seized the leg of a horse which lay on the ground, and with that
despatched his adversary. In honour of this exploit, and of the
weapon with which it was achieved, this place received the
name of Dorneich, or Dornoch, as it is now called. This tra-
dition is countenanced by the horse-shoe, which is still retained
in the arms of the burgh. In memory of the same event, a
stone pillar was erected on the spot, supporting at the top a
cross encompassed by a circle, which went under the name of
the Earl's cross. Standing on a sandy hillock, it wasgradually
undermined by the winds; several years ago it tumbled down,
and was broke to pieces ; at present, only scattered fragments
of it remain." [Old Statistical Account.] — This cro6S has re-
cently been repaired and re-erected.
f Neither England nor Ireland was much in advance of
Scotland in respect of this miserable superstition. Im 169^, a
girl, nineteen years of age, in the town of Antrim, having
eaten a loaf of sorrel which she got from a woman reputed to
be a witch, fell into convulsions and vomiting. She is said lo
have vomited horse-dung, needles, pios, feathers, bottoms of
thread, pieces of glass, nails, an iron knife above a span in
length, egg-shells, &o. The accused was immediately com-
mitted to the county-prison, and at the assizes held soon after,
was hanged and burned ! In 1716, Mrs. Hicks and her daugh-
ter, only nine years of age I were hanged at Huntingdon, for
selling their souls to the Devil, and tormenting and destroying
their neighbours, by making them vomit pins, and raising
a storm ! The act against witchcraft was repealed in England
and Scotland about 1750, but not in Ireland until 18211
DOR
324
DOR
literally a village, consisting of a church, a gaol, and
a very few houses ; and has been decreasing for se-
veral years, although it is the county-town, and the
seat of the sheriff-depute. By charter of Charles II.,
dated July 14th, 1628, Dornoch was erected into a
royal burgh, with the ordinary privileges, but a re-
servation in favour of the Earl of Sutherland's here-
ditary rights. The town-clerk reports that " the
family of Sutherland have, and especially of late have
claimed, as interjected superiors, a right to certain
feus within what is termed the royalty of the burgh
of Dornoch, but the declarant has no access to know
on what written title this right is founded ; and it
consists with his knowledge that there are various
tenements within the burgh who still hold by writ-
ten titles, in burgage of and under the magistrates as
superiors, and infeft by hasp and staple." The
revenue of the burgh is £3 15s. To manage this
large income, there are 14 councillors, over whom
the Duke of Sutherland, the wealthiest nobleman in
Britain, is provost ! It was formerly governed by a
provost, 4 bailies, a dean-of-guild, treasurer, and 12
councillors. Along with Tain, Dingwall, Wick, Cro-
marty, and Kirkwall, it unites in sending a member
to parliament. Its parliamentary constituency, in
1839, was 22. The property of the burgh consists
of the links in the neighbourhood, which, for the
year 1832—3, were let by public roup, for the sum of
£2 Is. A right to a salmon-fishing appears also to
have been claimed, but never to have been rendered
effectual. The rest of the annual income is derived
from custom and market-dues. Small, however, as
the revenue is, no debts are owing by this burgh ;
and no taxes or assessment are imposed. A claim is
made for a very extensive and apparently undefined
royalty, greatly exceeding the parliamentary boun-
daries ; but the territory over which jurisdiction lias
been exercised is understood to be limited to what
may be called the burgh proper. The magistrates
appoint the town-officers and gaolers. The salaries
are, town-clerk, £5 3s. 4d. ; head-gaoler, £20 ; and
under-gaoler, £15. These salaries are paid out of
the common good, as far as it will go ; but, it being
inadequate, the difference has for many years been
made up by the Duke of Sutherland. The burgh
has no church or school patronage. There being
no privilege attached to burgess-ship, there are no
burgesses Dornoch was formerly the seat of the
bishop of Caithness. The precise time of the erec-
tion of the see is not ascertained. Andrew, bishop
of Caithness, is witness to a donation by David I. to
the monastery of Dunfermline. He was bishop here
in 1150, and is probably the first of whom there is
any authentic account. In 1222 Gilbert Murray was
consecrated bishop here. While yet a young man,
and a canon of the church of Moray, Murray greatly
distinguished himself in behalf of the independence
of the Scottish church. Attempts had been made
to bring the clergy of that church under the juris-
diction of the Archbishop of York. The project
was not only patronized by the King of England,
but favoured by the Pope's legate, who held a con-
vention on the subject at Northampton, in presence
of the Kings of England and Scotland, in 1176.
Murray was one of the inferior clergy, who attended
the Scottish bishops cited by the legate on this oc-
casion. After the legate had addressed a speech to
the convention, warmly recommending the measure
in contemplation, a long silence ensued, — the bishops
of Scotland being intimidated by the legate's pres-
ence and authority. At length, Murray arose, and
asserted the independence of his church, in terms of
such manly determination and vigorous eloquence as
at once revived the courage of his associates, and ex-
torted the applause of his adversaries ; whereupon
the legate, apprehending that he had spoken the pre-
vailing sentiments of his country, broke up the as-
sembly. The young orator was, on his return home,
universally caressed, and afterwards promoted to the
see of Caithness. He built the cathedral of Dornoch ;
and died at Scrabster, in Caithness — where thebishops
had also a residence — in 1245. A statue of him is
still shown in the church here, under the name of
St. Gilbert ; but it is not entire. The last bishop,
! Andrew Wood, was translated here from the Isles,
in 1680, and remained till the Revolution Some
writers tell us, that Dornoch was also the seat of
one of the monasteries of the Trinity, or Red Friars,
otherwise called Mathurines, — from their house at
Paris dedicated to St. Mathurine. The great pro-
fessed object of the institution of this order appears
to have been the redemption of Christian captives ;
to which purpose a third part of their revenue is said
to have been destined. " Tertio vero pars," says
their constitution, "reservetur ad redemptionem
captivorum, qui sunt incarcerati, pro fide Christi, a
Paganis." Of 13 of these monasteries, which are
said to have subsisted in Scotland at the Reforma-
tion, one was at Dornoch, founded in 127] by Sir
Patrick Murray. Not the smallest vestige of the
building, however, can now.be traced ; the very site
of it is unknown at this day. The lands belonging
to the ministry of Berwick were given to this place,
after that city had fallen into the hands of the
English Here stand the ruins of the bishop's castle,
which appears to have been a stately and sumptu-
ous edifice. The two upper stories of an old tower,
formerly a part of the palace, have been converted
into a county-gaol About the year 1567, George,
Earl of Caithness, who claimed the wardship of Alex-
ander, Earl of Sutherland, then a minor, had got the
person of the latter into his possession. A tribe of
Murrays, inhabiting this part of the country, who
were firmly attached to the noble family of Suther-
land, and beheld the conduct of Caithness with a
jealous eye, contrived to get the minor conveyed
from Caithness, and put under the protection oi the
Earl of Huntly. Caithness in revenge invaded this
country, by his son John, who invested the town
and castle of Dornoch, of which the Murrays had
possessed themselves. Several skirmishes took place
with various success. The Murrays, no longer able
to maintain the ground they had occupied, retired
to the castle. Upon this the master of Caithness
I burnt the town and cathedral ; but the besieged de-
fended themselves in the castle for a month longer.
I At length, however, they were obliged to capitulate,
' having undertaken to depart out of Sutherland within
two months, and delivered three hostages into the
hands of the conquerors. The Murrays fulfilled
their engagement ; yet the hostages were treacher-
ously murdered The fine church of Dornoch stands
in the centre of the little town. It is as nearly
as possible a fac simile of the old cathedral, the
proportions and elaborate decorations having been
carefully copied. It cost £6,000, which was solely
defrayed by the Duchess-countess of Sutherland.
Unfortunately, it has so loud an echo inside, that
the minister's voice is nearly unintelligible to a part
of the congregation.
DORNOCH FRITH (The), sometimes called
the frith of Tain, is that arm of the sea which di-
vides the southern parts of Sutherland from the
county of Ross. The entrance of this frith is
nearly 15 miles wide, but gradually becomes nar-
rower, till, about 3 miles west of the town of Dor-
noch, its breadth is not more than 2 miles. Here
is a ferry called the Meikle-ferry. After this it
becomes much wider, forming an inner harbour or
bay where another ferry is established, called the
DOR
325
DOU
Lilfle-ferry, At this ferry is an excellent roadstead,
where vessels of considerable burden can lie at
anchor ; but a bar runs across the entrance. On
the Sutherland coast, too, in calm weather, vessels
of small burden may lie in safety ; but a formidable
bar extends from this coast almost to the south
side of the frith, called, from the incessant noise,
the Gizzing Briggs. The banks, however, forming
this bar, are not so closely connected but that ves-
sels may enter with safety under the direction of a
pilot. The shores produce shell-fish, and the banks
abound with cod and haddocks ; but no vigorous
exertion has been made to render these fisheries an
object of importance.
DORNOCK,* a parish on the Solway frith, in the
district of Annandale, Dumfries-shire. A small part
of it, in the form of a pentagon, and containing an
area of about a square mile, is detached from the
main body, and lies about i a mile to the north,
bounded on the west by Annan, and on the other three
sides by Kilpatrick- Fleming. The main-body, which
also is pentagonal, is bounded on the north-east by
Kirkpatrick- Fleming ; on the east, by Gretna; on
the south by the Solway frith ; and on the west
and north-west by Annan. The extreme length of
the parish, including both parts, but not the inter-
mediate space, is 4 miles ; its extreme breadth 2^
miles ; and its area 3,880 acres. Nearly the whole
surface is cultivated, and well-enclosed. The soil,
in general, is loam on brick earth ; and, though ra-
ther damp in winter, is productive of luxuriant
crops. Neither coal nor limestone has been found ;
but freestone is plentiful. A brook rises in Robgill-
moss, a small bog in the northern or detached part,
and traverses the main-body through nearly its centre.
Perennial springs of the purest water abound. Kirtle
water washes the north-east boundary, and contains
a few trouts, eels, pike, and perch. The coast is about
2J miles in extent, and is low and sandy. The Sol-
way frith is here 2 miles wide, and fordable during
the recess of the tide. Fearful accidents, however,
are liable to assail any passenger not intimately ac-
quainted with the peculiarities of the path. The
tide flows with the rapidity ofarace-horse, and comes
careering along with a breast of waters 4 or 5 feet
high. Great quantities of salmon, grilse, and floun-
ders, are here caught, chiefly by means of trap-stake-
nets, and sent off to the market of Carlisle. The
parish is traversed from east to west by the great
road from Carlisle to Port-Patrick ; and is other-
wise well-provided with means of communication.
As to antiquities, there are remains of a Roman mi-
litary road, a druidieal temple, and a strong square
tower, — the last is on the estate of the Marquis of
Annandale. Various and remarkable tomb-stones,
one or two of considerable antiquity, are to be seen
in the burying-ground. On what was anciently a
moor in the parish, a battle is traditionally said to
have been fought between the Scotch and English,
the former commanded by Sir William Brown of
Coalston, and the latter by Sir Marmaduke Lang-
dale and Lord Crosby. The English, it is said,
were defeated, and both of their commanders slain,
and afterwards interred in Dornock church}'ard.
Two stones, each 6| feet long, 2 broad, and raised
in the middle like a coffin, mark the place of the re-
ported interment. On the sides of these tombs are
cut hieroglyphics, like the broad leaves of plants,
and other antique figures quite unintelligible. A
spring- well on the spot where the battle was fought,
is still called Sword-well, and probably acquired the
* The name ia derived either from the Gaelic Durnochd,
which signifies ' the bare or naked water;' or from Tor or Dor,
'an oak,' and nock, ' a knoll or hill/ signifying jointly, l an
ouk-covered eminence.'
name from some swords of the defeated having been
found in its vicinity. The village, or hamlet of
Dornock, a poor and unimportant place, stands on
the great highway, | of a mile from the shore. Po-
pulation of the parish, in 1801, 788; in 1831, 752.
Houses 148. Assessed property, in 1815, .£4,135.
— Dornock, formerly a rectory, is in the presbytery
of Annan, and synod of Dumfries. Patron, the Duke
of Buccleuch. Stipend £208 3s. 6d. ; glebe ±'25.
Church built in 1793 ; sittings 300. — Schoolmaster's
salary £34 4s. , with £24 other emoluments. There
are 2 schools non-parochial.
DOUGLAS, a large parish in the upper ward of
Lanarkshire ; bounded by the parish of Lesmahagow
on the north and north-west ; Carmichael and Wiston
on the east; Roberton and Crawfordjohn on the
south-east and south; and Muirkirk in Ayrshire on
the west. In length it extends upwards of 12 miles,
an;! varies from 4 to 7 in breadth. According to the
New Statistical Account, its superficial area contains
about 28,004 Scots acres, of which 3,816 are arable,
22,376 pasture, 1,492 wood, and 320 flow-moss. It
is watered by the Douglas, which rises in Cairntable,
and after a course of about 16 miles, falls into the
Clyde, and greatly swells the volume of its waters.
The Douglas water in its course receives several
streamlets, which lend beauty if not fertility to the
parish ; the names of which are the Peniel, Monks,
Podowrin, Kinnox, Glespin, Parkburn, and Craig--
burn. The aspect of the parish is one which pos-
sesses in a considerable degree the elements of rural
loveliness, presenting as it does all the pleasing
alternations of hill and dale, woodland and streamlet.
Cairntable rises to the height of more than 1,600
feet above the level of the sea, and generally the
parish is high-lying, none of it being at a lower ele-
vation than 650 feet above the sea-level, and near] y
40 miles distant from the coast in every direction.
As has been stated, by far the larger portion of the
superficies of the parish is laid out for pasture, and
the stock of sheep which it maintains is estimated at
nearly 16,000 head. " The winds generally blow
impetuously about the time of the equinox, and fre-
quently in autumn shake a deal of corn. They blow-
mostly from the south-west, which being the direc-
tion of the river, and the banks high on each side,
what would be accounted a moderate breeze in other
places, is here often a kind of hurricane." [Statis-
tical Account of 1792.] — But although this is a dis-
trict of which it may be occasionally said, that
" Winter lingering chills the lap of May,"
it is an extremely healthy one, and instances of
longevity among the inhabitants are frequent. The
parish is rich in mineral wealth, and such is the
thickness and abundance of the seams of coal, that
the supply, it has been stated, will be exhaustless for
centuries. Much of it is sold out of the parish to
a considerable distance. Limestone and freestone
are worked, and the presence of ironstone has been
ascertained. In the year 1 792 a small cotton spinning
and weaving factory was established at Douglas vil-
lage, by a Glasgow company. After having been in
existence for a few years, it was discontinued ; but a
manufacturing connexion having been then formed
with Glasgow, it is still kept up, and the greater
portion of the inhabitants of the village of Douglas
are employed in the trade of handloom weaving. In
early times the village of Douglas, in addition to
being a burgh-of-barony, was a place of considerable
importance, and its magistrates possessed the powet
of life and death over culprits ; but, like many other-
towns in Scotland which basked in the sunshine of a
feudal chief, it has survived its pristine dignity. The
road from Edinburgh to Glasgow by Carnwath,
326
DOUGLAS.
Muirkirk, and Cumnock, passes through the parish
from east to west; and the Great London road
from Glasgow to Carlisle runs through it for 7
miles from north-west to south-east. The most pro-
minent feature in the parish is Douglas castle, the
princely residence of Lord Douglas. It was built by
the last Duke of Douglas, shortly after the conflagra-
tion of the former castle, in 1760. At the time of
his lordship's death only one wing had been com-
pleted ; but even in this state the building is a stately
one, and has a noble appearance. Independently of
the intense historical interest which must ever at-
tach to the residence of "the Douglas," there is
a melancholy association connected with Douglas
castle, as being the scene of " Castle Dangerous," the
last novel of Sir Walter Scott, and the last place to
which he made a pilgrimage in Scotland. The pre-
face to this work was transmitted by Sir Walter from
Naples in 1832, and contains the following passage : —
" The author, before he had made much progress in
this, probably the last of his novels, undertook a
journey to Douglasdale, for the purpose of examin-
ing the remains of the famous castle, the kirk of St.
Bride of Douglas, the patron-saint of that great
family, and the various localities alluded to by Gods-
croft, in his account of the early adventures of Good
Sir James ; but though he was fortunate enough to
find a zealous and well-informed cicerone in Mr.
Thomas Haddow, and had every assistance from the
kindness of Mr. Alexander Finlay, the resident
chamberlain of his friend Lord Douglas, the state of
his health at the time was so feeble that he found
himself incapable of pursuing his researches, as in
better days he would have delighted to do, and was
obliged to be contented with such a cursory view of
scenes, in themselves most interesting, as could be
snatched in a single morning, when any bodily exer-
tion was painful. Mr. Haddow was attentive enough
to forward subsequently some notes on the points
which the author had seemed desirous of investigat-
ing; but these did not reach him until, being obliged
to prepare matters for a foreign excursion in quest of
health and strength, he. had been compelled to bring
his work, such as it is, to a conclusion. The re-
mains of the old castle of Douglas are inconsiderable.
They consist, indeed, of but one ruined tower, stand-
ing at a short distance from the modern mansion,
which itself is only a fragment of the design on which
the Duke of Douglas meant to reconstruct the edifice,
after its last accidental destruction by fire. His
Grace had kept in view the ancient prophecy, that,
as often as Douglas castle might be destroyed it
should rise again in enlarged dimensions and improv-
ed splendour, and projected a pile of building, which,
if it had been completed, would have much exceeded
any nobleman's residence then existing in Scotland ;
as, indeed, what has been finished, amounting to
about one-eighth* of the plan, is sufficiently exten-
sive for the accommodation of a large establishment,
and contains some apartments the extent of which
are magnificent. The situation is commanding ; and
though the Duke's successors have allowed the man-
sion to continue as he left it, great expense has
been lavished on the environs, which now present a
vast sweep of richly undulated woodland, stretching
to the borders of the Cairntable mountains, repeat-
edly mentioned as the favourite retreat of the great
ancestor of the family in the days of his hardships and
persecution. There remains at the head of the ad-
joining bourg, the choir of the ancient church of St.
Bride, having beneath it the vault which was used,
* It is possible that in this statement Sir Walter may have
been mistaken or misinformed, for in the New Statistical Ac
w>nnt, the minister of the parish states the portion erected com-
prises Iwo-Jifths of the original plau.
till lately, as the burial-place of this princely race,
and only abandoned when their stone and leaden
coffins had accumulated, in the course of five or six
hundred years, in such a way that it could accommo-
date no more. Here a silver case, containing the
dust of what was once the brave heart of Good Sir
James, is still pointed out ; and in the dilapidated
choir above appears, though in a sorely ruinous state,
the once magnificent tomb of the warrior himself. " —
The old church of Douglas was called St. Bride,
from being dedicated to St. Bridget or St. Bride.
It is a place of great antiquity, and the spire, and
aisle which was used as the burying-place of the
family of Douglas, are still preserved. The new bury-
ing-place is beneath the present church, and contains
the coffins of the last Duke and Duchess of Douglas,
the late Lord Douglas, and others of his kindred.
The monuments in the old kirk of St. Bride's are
said to have been wantonly mutilated by a party of
Cromwell's troopers, who made the edifice a stable
for their horses, and at a still later period by the mis-
chievous propensity of the boys of the place, who for
a length of time had free access to the aisle. Even
in their mutilated state some of the monuments are
exquisitely beautiful, and Sir Walter Scott says of
the tomb of the Good Sir James, that " the monu-
ment, in its original state, must have been not in-
ferior in any respect to the best of the same period
in Westminster abbey." The parish of Douglas is
celebrated in another respect than from its associa-
tion with the noble family of that name ; for it was
upon Auchinsaugh hill, within its bounds, that the
covenanters met, towards the close of the seven-
teenth century, for the renewal of the solemn league
and covenant. It was in this place, too, that the Ca-
meronian regiment — now the 26th of the line — was
imbodied in defence of the Protestant government of
the Prince of Orange. They were mustered on a
field near the town of Douglas, in April, 1689, under
the command of Lord Angus, eldest son of the Mar-
quis of Douglas. — Douglas forms part of the presby-
tery of Lanark, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr.
According to the earliest record, this parish belonged
to the monks of Kelso, from whom it passed into the
hands of the Douglas family, and the patronage has
been retained by them from the 12th century to the
present time, — Lord Douglas being proprietor of
nine-tenths of the parish. The rectory of the parish
was established as a prebend of the cathedral church
of Glasgow, previous to 1500, and at the Reforma-
tion was held by Archibald Douglas, at which time
the benefice was valued at .£200 yearly. This per-
son was actively concerned in the murder of David
Bizzio, and afterwards obtained a pardon for his
crime. In 1568 he was appointed a lord of session
by the Regent Murray, in the room of Leslie, Bishop
of Ross, who was dismissed. Population, in 1801,
1,730; in 1831, 2,549, of whom about one-half re-
side in the village. The valued rental is £3,989 3s.
6d. ; the real rental nearly £8,450. It is made up
as follows: £3,816 from arable land; £4,134 from
pasture ; and about £500 from minerals. Stipend
£250 7s. 6d. Unappropriated teinds £135 lis. 2d.
Patron, Lord Douglas. The manse was built in
1828. There is a Secession church, and a Camer-
onian meeting-house in the parish. The salary
of the parochial teacher is £34 4s. with school-
fees. There are 3 other schools, not parochial, in
the parish.
The whole family of Douglas, " whose coronet so
often counterpoised the crown," and which has so
closely linked the district of Douglasdale to Scottish
story, is said to have been founded by Theobald, a
Fleming, who acquired these lands at a very early
period. The first great man of the house, however,
DOUGLAS.
s-2;
was "the Good Sir James," who was the friend and
companion of Robert the Bruce in his valorous
efforts to achieve the independence of Scotland.
His own castle of Douglas had been taken and gar-
risoned by the troops of Edward I., and he resolved
to take it, and at the same time inflict signal chas-
tisement on the intruders. History tells us that a
beautiful English maiden, named the Lady Augusta
de Berkely, had replied to her numerous suitors that
her hand should be given to him who should have
the courage and the ability to hold the perilous castle
of Douglas for a year and a day ; and Sir John de
Walton, anxious to win by his valour such a lovely
prize, undertook the keeping of the castle by consent
of Edward. For several months he discharged his
duty with honour and bravery, and the lady now
deeming his probation accomplished, and not unwill-
ing perhaps to unite her fortunes to one who had
proved himself a true and valiant knight, wrote him
an epistle recalling him. By this time, however, he
had received a defiance from Douglas, who declared
that despite all his bravery and vigilance, the castle
should be his own by Palm Simday ; and De Walton
deemed it a point of honour to keep possession till
the threatened day should pass over. On the day
named Douglas having assembled his followers, as-
sailed the English as they retired from the church,
and having overpowered them took the castle. Sir
John de Walton was slain in the conflict, and the
letter of his lady-love being found in his pocket,
afflicted the generous and good Sir James " full
sorely." The account of this taking of the Castle
of Douglas, given in ' the History of the Houses of
Douglas and Angus, by Master David Hume of Gods-
croft,' is somewhat different from the above, and
states that Sir James had drawn Sir John de Walton,
by an ambuscade, out from the castle into the open
country, where he fell on his band, killed their leader,
and took the castle. The stronghold was more than
once taken, retaken, burnt, and rebuilt, during the
life of the Good Sir James, and the account of one of
these successful assaults upon it, given by the same
veracious chronicler — David Hume — is as follows :
" The manner of his taking it is said to have beene
thus — Sir James taking with him only two of his
servants, went to Thomas Dickson of whom he was
received with tears, after he had revealed himself to
him, for the good old man knew him not at first,
being in mean and homely apparel. There he kept
him secretly in a quiet chamber, and brought unto
him such as had been trusty servants to his father,
not all at once, but apart by one and one, for fear of
discoverie. Their advice was, that on Palm Sunday,
when the English would come forth to the church,
and his partners were conveened, that then he should
give the word, and cry 'the Douglas slogan,' and
presently set upon them that should happen to be
there, who being despatched the castle might be
taken easily. This being concluded, and they come,
so soon as the English were entred into the church
with palms in their hands, (according to the custom
of that day,) little suspecting or fearing any such
thing, Sir James, according to their appointment,
cryed too soon, (a Douglas, a Douglas!) which being
heard in the church, (this was St. Bride's church of
Douglas,) Thomas Dickson, supposing he had beene
hard at hand, drew out his sword and ran upon them,
having none to second him but another man, so that,
oppressed by the number of his enemies, he was
beaten downe and slaine. In the meantime, Sir
James being come, the English that were in the
chancel kept off the Scots, and having the advantage
of the strait and narrow entrie, defended themselves
manfully. But Sir James, encouraging his men, not
so much by words as by deeds and good example,
and having slam the boldest resisters, prevailed at
last, and entring the place, slew some twenty-six of
their number, and tooke the rest, about ten or twelve
persons, intending by them to get the castle upon
composition, or to enter with them when the gates
should be opened to let them in; but it needed not,
for they of the castle were so secure that there was
none left to keep it, save the porter and the cooke,
who knowing nothing of what had hapned at the
church, which stood a large quarter of a mile from
thence, had left the gate wide open, the porter stand-
ing without, and the cooke dressing the dinner with-
in. They entred without resistance, and meat being
ready, and the cloth laid, they shut the gates and
took their refection at good leasure. Now that he
had gotten the castle into his hands, considering with
himself (as he was a man no lesse advised than
valiant) that it was hard for him to keep it, the
English being as yet the stronger in that countrey,
who if they should besiege him, he knewe of no re-
liefe, he thought it better to carry away such things
as be most easily transported, gold, silver, and apoa-
rell, with ammunition and armour, whereof he had
greatest use and need, and to destroy the rest of the
provision, together with the castle itselfe, than to
diminish the number of his followers there where it
could do no good. And so he caused carry the meale
and meat, and other cornes and grain into the cellar,
and laid all together in one heape : then he took the
prisoners and slew them, to revenge the death of his
trustie and valiant servant, Thomas Dickson, mingling
the victuals with their bloud, and burying their car-
kasses in the heap of corne : after that he struck out
the heads of the barrells, and puncheons, and let the
drink runn through all; and then he cast the car-
kasses of dead horses and other carrion amongst it,
throwing the salt above all, so to make all together
unuseful to the enemie ; and this cellar is called yet
the Douglas lairder. Last of all he set the house on
fire, and burnt all the timber, and what else the fire
could overcome, leaving nothing but the scorched
walls behind him." — In 1312-13, Sir James took'the
castle of Roxburgh, and the following year com-
manded the centre of the Scottish army at the battle
of Bannockburn. In 1317, the English were de-
feated by him, under the Earl of Arundel. In 1319,
Sir James, in conjunction with Randolph, Earl of
Murray, entered England by the west marches with
1,500 men, routed the English under the archbishop
of York, eluded Edward II., and returned with hon-
our to Scotland. When Robert the Bruce was on
his deathbed, in 1329, he sent for his true friend and
companion in arms the Good Sir James, and requested
him, that so soon as his spirit had departed to Him
who gave it, he should proceed with his heart and
deposit it with humility and reverence, at the sepul-
chre of our Lord at Jerusalem. Douglas resolved to
carry the request of the dying king into execution,
and it appears that for this purpose he received a
passport from Edward III., dated September 1, 1329.
He set sail in the following year with the heart of
his honoured master, accompanied by a splendid re-
tinue. Having anchored oft' Sluys, he was informed
that Alphonso XL, the king of Leon and Castile,
was engaged in hostilities in Grenada with the Moor-
ish commander Osmyn; and this determined him to
pass into Spain, and assist the Christians to combat
the Saracens, preparatory to completing his journey
to Jerusalem. Douglas and his friends were warmly
received by Alphonso, and having encountered the
Saracens at Theba, on the frontiers of Andalusia, on
August 25, 1330, they were routed. Douglas eagerly
followed in the pursuit, and taking the casket which
contained the heart of Bruce, he threw it before him,
exclaiming, "Onward, brave heart, that never failed..
328
DOUGLAS.
and Doug-las will follow thee or die !" The Saracens
rallied, however, and the Good Sir James was slain.
His companions found his body upon the field along
with the casket, and mournfully conveyed them to
Scotland. The heart of the Bruce was deposited at
Melrose, although his body was interred in the royal
tomb at Dunfermline. The remains of Sir James
were buried at Douglas, and a monument erected to
him by his brother Archibald. The old poet Bar-
bour, after reciting the circumstances of Sir James'
fall in Spain, tells us —
" Quhen his men lang had mad imirnyn,
Thai debowlyt him, anti syne
Gert scher him swa, that mycht be tane
The tiesch all haly fra the bane,
And the earioune thar in haly place
Erdyt, with rycht gret worsrhip, was.
"The banys have thai with them tane;
And syne ar to thair schippis gaue ;
Syne towart Scotland held thair way,
And thar ar curomyn in full gret by.
And the banys honorabilly
In till the kirk off Douglas war
Erdyt, with dull and mekill car.
Schyr Archebald has sone gert syn
Off alabastre, baith fair and fyue,
Or save a tumbe sa richly
As it behowyt to swa worthy."
The family was raised to an earldom in 1357 by
David II. ; and during this reign and the two which
succeeded, the house of Douglas rose to a degree of
power scarcely inferior to that of royalty itself; and,
as has been remarked by an old historian, it became
a saying that "nae man was safe in the country,
unless he were either a Douglas or a Douglas man."
The Earl went abroad with a train of 2,000 men,
kept a sort of court, and even created knights. In
1424, Archibald, the 5th Earl, became possessed of
the duchy of Touraine in France, for services which
he had rendered to Charles VII. the French king.
William, the 6th Earl, raised the family power to a
most formidable height ; their estates in Galloway
where they possessed the stronghold of Thrieve —
Annandale, and Douglas, afforded them an amount
of revenue and enabled them to raise an army not
inferior to that of their sovereign. It was at this
time, however, the policy of Crichton. — one of the
ablest of those who had the direction of affairs during
the minority of James II to humble the overgrown
power of the nobles, and accordingly Earl William,
having been decoyed into the castle of Edinburgh,
was subjected to a mock trial for treason, and be-
headed, Nov. 24, 1440, along with his brother David,
and a faithful follower named Malcolm Fleming.
The duchy of Touraine now reverted to the French
king. After a brief period of depressed fortune, the
family rose to a still greater degree of power than
ever, in the person of William, the 8th Earl. He
was at first a favourite of James II., but having fallen
into partial disgrace he went abroad, and his castle
of Douglas was demolished during his absence by
orders of the king, on account of the insolence of his
dependents. Upon the return of the Earl he came
under obedience to the king, but this was not meant
to be sincere. He attempted to assassinate Crichton
the chancellor, and executed John Herries in despite
of the king's mandate to the contrary. " By forming
a league with the Earl of Crawford and other barons,
he united against his sovereign almost one-half of his
kingdom. But his credulity led him into the same
snare which had been fatal to the former earl. Rely-
ing on the king's promises, who had now attained to
the years of manhood, and having obtained a safe-
conduct under the great seal, lie ventured to meet
him in Stirling castle. James urged him to dissolve
that dangerous confederacy into which he had en-
tered ; the Earl obstinately refused : — ' If you will
not,' said the enraged monarch, drawing his dagger,
'this shall!' and stabbed him to the heart. An ac-
tion so unworthy of a king filled the nation with
astonishment and with horror. The earl's vassals
ran to arms with the utmost fury, and dragging the
safe-conduct, which the king had granted and vio-
lated, at a horse's tail, they marched towards Stir-
ling, burnt the town, and threatened to besiege the
castle. An accommodation, however, ensued ; on
what terms is not known. But the king's jealousy,
and the new earl's power and resentment, prevented
it from being of long continuance. Both took the
field at the head of their armies, and met near Aber-
corn. That of the earl, composed chiefly of bor-
derers, was far superior to the king's both in number
and in valour; and a single battle must in all proba-
bility have decided whether the house of Stewart or
the house of Douglas was henceforth to possess the
throne of Scotland. But while his troops impatiently
expected the signal to engage, the earl ordered them
to retire to their camp; and Sir James Hamilton of
Cadzow, the person in whom he placed the greatest
confidence, convinced of his want of genius to im-
prove an opportunity, or of his want of courage to
seize a crown, deserted him that very night. This
example was followed by many, and the earl, de-
spised or forsaken by all, was soon driven out of the
kingdom, and obliged to depend for his subsistence
on the king of England." [Robertson's History of
Scotland.] — The overgrown strength of this family
was destroyed in the year 1455, and the earl, after
enduring many vicissitudes, retired in his old age to
Lindores abbey in Fife, and died there in I486.
The title of Earl of Douglas, of this the first branch
of the family, existed for 98 years, giving an average
of 11 years to each possessor. The lands of the
family reverted to the Crown; but they were shortly
afterwards bestowed on the Earl of Angus, the head
of a junior branch of the old family, and descended
from George Douglas, the only son of William 1st
Earl of Douglas by his third wife, Margaret countess
of Angus, who, upon his mother's resignation of her
right, received her title. This family assisted in the
destruction of the parent-house, and it became a
saying, in allusion to the complexion of the two
races, that the red Douglas had put down the black.
This family produced some men who have occupied
a prominent position in Scottish story, such as Archi-
bald, the 5th Earl, who was known by the soubriquet
of Bell-the-cat; and Archibald, the 6th Earl, who,
marrying Margaret of England, widow of James IV.,
who fell at Flodden, was the grandfather of the un-
fortunate Henry Lord Darnley, the husband of Queen
Mary, and father of James VI. This Archibald, dur-
ing the minority of his step-son James V., had all
the authority of a regent. From the accession oi
the second Douglas line, after the forfeiture of the
first, the possessions of the house were held by the
family in uninterrupted succession till the death of
the Duke of Douglas in 1761. William, the 11th
Earl of Angus, was raised to the marquisate of
Douglas, in 1633, by Charles I. This nobleman
was a Catholic and a royalist, and inclined to hold
out his castle against the covenanters, in favour or
the king; but he was surprised by them, and the
castle taken. He was one of the best of the family,
and kept up to its fullest extent the olden princely
Scottish hospitality. The king constituted him his
lieutenant on the borders, and he joined Montrose
after his victory at Kilsyth, escaped from the rout
at the battle of Philliphaugh, and soon after made
terms with the powers that be. The first Marquis
of Douglas was the father of three peers of different
titles, viz. Archibald, his eldest son, who succeeded
him as second Marquis; William, his eldest son by
a second marriage, who became 3d Duke of Ham-
ilton ; and George, his second son by the same mar-
DOU
329
DOU
riage, who was created Earl of Dumbarton. Archi-
bald, the 3d Marquis, succeeded to the peerage
in 1700, and was created Duke of Douglas in 1703.
In the rebellion of 1715 he adhered to the ruling
family of Hanover, and fought as a volunteer in the
battle of SherifF-muir. He died childless at Queens-
berry-house, Edinburgh, in 1761, when the ducal
title became extinct. The Marquisate of Douglas
devolved, through heirs-male, to the Duke of Hamil-
ton, on account of his descent from the 1st Marquis ;
and the title of Marquis of Douglas and Clydesdale,
is now conceded by courtesy to the eldest son of that
ducal house. The real and personal estate of the
Duke of Douglas was inherited by his nephew,
Archibald Stewart, Esq., who was served his nearest
lawful heir, September 3, 1761. This gentleman
assumed the surname of Douglas, and was created
Baron Douglas by George III. in 1796, and his titles
and estates are now enjoyed by his son the present
peer.*
* The death of the Duke of Doug-las, and consequent assump-
tion of the estates by his nephew, Archibald Stewart, mentioned
in the context, led to one of the most extraordinary lawsuits
ever known in the kingdom, and which has been termed par
excellence, the ' Great Douglas Cause.' Lady Jane Douglas,
sister to Archibald Duke of Douglas, was one of the handsomest
and most accomplished women of her age; but her fortunes were
clouded in early life by the interruption of a nuptial agreement
which was all but concluded between her and the Earl of Dal-
keith, afterwards Duke of Buccieucn. In August 1746, being
then 43 years of age, she was secretly married to Mr. Stewart,
afterwards Sir John Stewart of Grantully. They resided abroad,
principally in France, from 1746 till the end of December 1749.
At the latter date they returned to this country, and took up
their residence in London, bringing with them two male chil-
dren, of which they gave out that Lady Jane had been delivered
in Paris, at a twin-birth, in the mouth of July 1743. The
youngest of the twins, who was named Sholto Thomas Stewart,
died on the 14th May, 1753; and, in November following, the
unfortunate mother died at Edinburgh, after having repeatedly
but in vain sought a reconciliation with her brother. In the
year 1759, Mr. Stewart, succeeding by the death of his brother
to the estate and title of Grantully, executed, as the first act of
his administration, a bond of provision in favour of the surviv-
ing twin, Archibald, for upwards of £2,500, wherein he designed
him as his son by Lady Jane Douglas. Meanwhile, the Duke
of Douglas continued obstinate in his refusal to acknowledge
him as his nephew ; and in the year 1758, he entered into mar-
riage-ties. On the 11th of July, 1701 , the Duke, on his death-
bed, executed an entail of his whole estate in favour of the heirs
of the body of his father James Marquis of Douglas, with re-
mainder to Lord Douglas Hamilton, brother to the Duke of
Hamilton, &c. &c. And of the same date, he also executed an-
other deed, setting- forth, that as, in the event of his death with-
out heirs of his body, Archibald Douglas, alias Stewart, a mi-
nor, and son of the deceased Lady Jane Douglas, his sister,
would succeed to him in his dukedom of Douglas ; he therefore,
by that deed, appointed the Duchess of Douglas, the Duke of
Cjueensberry, and several other noble and honourable persons,
to be his tutors and guardians. The youth's guardians pro-
ceeded, immediately after the duke's death, to have him put in
possession of the estate of Douglas. He was served heir b.efore
a jury to the late duke, after the examination of a great body
of evidence, the examination or inquest having been attended
by counsel on the part of the Duke of Hamilton, who claimed
the Douglas estate as heir-male. The guardians of the Duke of
Hamilton, however, were not convinced of the legitimacy of
Douglas, and, with the view of expiscating the truth, despatched
Mr. Andrew Stuart, one of their number, to Paris. Mr. Stu-
art's discoveries, in his own opinion, and that of his colleagues,
amounted to no less than a demonstration that the whole story
of the pretended delivery of Lady Jane while in Paris, as set
forth in the service of Mr. Douglas, was a fiction. In these
circumstances, three actions of reduction of that service w^re
respectively raised at the instance of the Duke of Hamilton's
guardians^-Lord Douglas Hamilton and Sir Hew Dalrymple of
North Berwick — which actions were afterwards conjoined by
the Court ot Session. The effect of the conjoined action, if suc-
cessful, would have been to declare that Mr. Douglas was not
the son of Lady Jane, and, consequently, to set him aside from
the estate.
The proofs adduced for Mr. Douglas consisted of :— 1st, The
depositions of several witnesses, that Lady Jane appeared to
them to be with child while at Aix-la-Chapelle, and other
places.— 2dly, the direct and positive testimony of Mrs. Hewit,
who accompanied Lady Jane to Paris, to the actual delivery at
Paris upon the 10th July, 1748 — 3dly, The depositions of other
witnesses with regard to the claimant's being owned and ac-
knowledged by Lady Jane and Sir John Stewart to be their
child, and the habit and repute of the country.— 4thly, A variety
of letters which had passed betwixt Sir John Stewart, Lady
Jane Douglas, Mrs. Hewit, and others, respecting the claim-
ant's birth.— 5thly, Four letters said to have been written by
Pierre la Marre, who, according to the defendant's account,
DOUGLAS (The), a river which takes its rise
at the foot of Cairntable ; 9 miles above the village
of Douglas; flows from west to north-east, and,
receiving the waters of several small rivulets in its
course, falls into the Clyde, about 7 miles below
Douglas. See above article.
DOUGLAS (The), a small stream in Selkirk-
shire, which falls into the Yarrow near a rocky crag,
called Douglas craig.
DOUGLASDALE, a name of the middle ward of
Lanarkshire. Formerly it was almost entirely the
property of the Earls of Douglas; and Lord Douglas,
the representative of that family, is still the princi-
pal proprietor.
DOUNE, a small village in the parish of Kilma-
dock, Perthshire. It is beautifully situated on the
banks of the Teith, 8 miles north-west from Stirling.
It consists of one large street, and two smaller ones
branching off from it. Doune was formerly distin-
guished for its manufacture of Highland pistols. Its
inhabitants have, however, during the last 40 years,
been occupied with pursuits of a more pacific ten-
was the accoucheur to the delivery of Lady Jane, and which
were presented as so many true and genuine letters. Add to
these, that a few days before his death, which happened in
June, 1764, Sir John Stewart emitted a solemn declaration in
presence of two ministers and one justiee-of-the peace, declaring
and asserting, as stepping into eternity, that the defendant and
his deceased twin-brother were both born of the body of Lady
Jane Douglas, his lawful spouse, in the year 1748. Mrs. Hewit,
who was charged with being an accomplice in the fraud, died
during the law-plea of a lingering illness, but to the last
persisted that all she had sworn about the birth of the de-
fendant was truth, excepting some mistakes and errors as to
names and dates, which she corrected in a letter to a reve-
rend gentleman of the Episcopal communion. The pursuers
maintained : 1st, That Lady Jane was not delivered upon
the 10th of July, 1748, by the evidence of various letters
written by Sir John Stewart and Mrs. Hewit upon the 10th,
11th, and 22d July, 1748. — 2dly, That Lady Jane Douglas
was not delivered in the house of a Madame la Brune, nor in
the presence of a Madame la Brune and her daughter ; under
which head they brought various circumstances to show that
no such persons as the Madame la Brune in question, or her
daughter, ever existed. — 3dly, That Lady Jane Douglas could
n«t have been delivered either upon the 10th of July, or in the
house of a M;idame la Brune, because, upon that date, and dur-
ing several days preceding and sohsequent to the 10th of July,
Lady Jane Douglas, with her husband and Mrs. Hewit, re-
sided at the Hotel de Chalons, kept by Mons. Godofroi, where
it is acknowledged she was not delivered ; and this alibi the
plaintiffs asserted to beclearly proved by the testimony of Mons.
and Madame Godofroi, as well as by certain books kept by them.
— 4thly, The falsehood of the delivery in the house of a Madame
la Brune upon the 10th July, the pursuers argued might be
proved by Lady Jane's situation, upon her arrival at the house
of Madame Michelle, and by incidents which happened during
her continuance there.— Sthly, They argued for the evidence of
imposture in the studied concealment and mystery at Paris in
July, 1748, when Sir John and Lady Jane, with their confidante
Mrs. Hewit, carried with them from Paris to Rheims one
child ; and from their repetition of the same concealment and
mystery, upon their return to Paris in November, 1749, when
the same three persons brought from Paris to Kheiras a second
child. — Lastly, the plaintiffs brought proof, that at Paris, in the
month of July, 1748, a male child, recently born, was carried
off from his "parents of the name of Miguion ; that, in the
month of November, 17J9, another male child, born in the year
1748, was carried off trum his parents, of the name of Sanry;
that both these children were under ialse pretences carried off
from their parents by certain persons then in Paris, — and that
these British persons were Sir John Stewart, Lady Jane Doug-
las, and Mrs. Hewit.
To these arguments were added a mo^t critical examination
of the defendant's proof of Lady Jane's pregnancy, and a con-
trary proof brought to redargue it j aud a proof of the non-
existence of the Pierre la Marre, whom the defendant affirmed
to have been the accoucheur, with a proof of the forgery of the
letters attributed to him.
On the 7th July, 17t>7, the case came on for judgment in the
Court of Session, and so important was the cause deemed, that
the fifteen judges took no less than eight days to deliver their
opinions. The result was, that seven of the judges voted to
sustain the reasons of reduction, arid other seven to assoilzie the
defender ; the Lord-president — who has no vote but in such a
dilemma — voted for the reduction, by which Douglas, alias
Stewart, lost both name and estate. An appeal from this de-
cision having been taken to the House of Peers, the judgment
of the Court ot Session was reversed in the year 17(59; and
Archibald Douglas declared to be the son of Lady Jane, and
! heir of the Duke of Douglas. Archibald Douglas was created
I Lord Douglas by George III. in 1796. His son is the present,
I peer of that name, and now enjoys the princely family-estates.
DOU
330
DRA
dency, — the large cotton-works at the neighbouring
manufactory of Deanston giving employment to a
great part of the population. [See Kllmadock.]
Large cattle-fairs are held here on the 2d Wednesday
of February, the 2d Wednesday of May, the last
Wednesday of July, the 1st Tuesday, 1st Wednes-
day and Thursday, and 4th Wednesday of November,
and the last Wednesday of December — The only
object of much interest here is the ancient castle of
Doune, which is situated close by the village, on a
mound apparently artificial, and surrounded by beau-
tiful wooded banks. The Teith flows immediately
under its walls, and is joined a little below the
castle by the water of Ardoch. The period of its
erection lias not been ascertained. Tradition as-
cribes its foundation to Murdoch, Duke of Albany,
who, along with his two sons, fell beneath the axe
of the executioner at Stirling in 1425, during the
glorious but iron reign of James I. This account,
however, is obviously quite false, for although it
was undoubtedly possessed by Albany, it had been
for nearly a century before his time the seat of the
Earls of Menteith. The custody of Doune castle
was granted by James V. to James Stewart, ancestor
of the Moray family. It afterwards fell into the
full possession of his son, who was created Lord
Doune in 1581, and since that period it has contin-
ued in the possession of the Earls of Moray. This
ancient stronghold is of prodigious size and strength.
It forms a square pile, the sides of which are 96 feet
in length, the walls being 40 feet high, and 10 in
thickness. Considering its immense age, it presents
wonderfully few marks of the injuries of time. The
tower, which stands at the north-east corner, is mas-
sive and lofty, being 80 feet high. The great hall
is 63 feet long, and 25 wide. There are several
other spacious apartments in that portion of the
building which appears to have constituted the family-
residence, and the whole of them exhibit striking
proofs of former grandeur. From the south-east
corner of what seems to have been the dining-room,
a narrow stair descends into a subterranean passage
which leads into a small dark cell, obviously intended
for the purposes of a dungeon. Its roof is vaulted,
and contains a small hole, — probably for lowering
scanty pittances of food to the unhappy captive.
There are other vaults and prisons on the ground
floor on each side of the entry, all of them of the
same frightful description. The building has for-
merly been covered with stones or slates; but no
part of the roof now remains. Doune castle was
occupied for the last time as a place of defence in
1745, by the adherents of Prince Charles, who
planted a twelve-pounder in one of the windows,
and several swivels on the parapets. John Home,
the author of ' Douglas,' and Dr. Witherspoon, after-
wards distinguished as a presbyterian divine, were
confined along with other prisoners taken by the
Pretender's forces. Many of our readers will remem-
ber the graphic account of their escape, given by
Home in his ' History of the Rebellion.' Grose has
given a view of Doune castle. Several modern views
of it have been painted by Stevenson and others.
DOUNIES. See Banchory-Davinick.
DOWALLY, formerly a chapelry in the parish of
Caputh in Perthshire, but disjoined from it in 1500,
and now annexed to the parish of Dunkeld, the
minister of which preaches here one diet in the after-
noon of every second Sabbath in summer, and every
third Sabbath in winter. The old church of Dow-
ally — which was built by Bishop Brown in 1500 — was
a long, narrow, inelegant structure. A new church
was built in 1820 ; sittings 210. The population of
this district, in 1801, was 672; in 1831, 596. It is
5 miles north by west of Dunkeld, and contains
about 11,580 acres, stretching along the eastern bank
of the Tay. At the upper extremity, the barony ot
Dalcapon, which extends along the north bank of
the Tummel — here crossed by a ferry — for three-
quarters of a mile, is separated from it by an inter-
vening part of the parish of Logierait. The hills
afford pasture to numerous flocks of sheep ; some of
them are covered with natural forests, well-stocked
with red and roe deer, and game of various kinds.
The rocky hills of Cbaigie Barns [which see] and
Craigiebenean, on the lower boundary of Dowally,
present a very precipitous and picturesque appearance
towards the east. The King's pass, between Craigif
Barns, and a large rocky, wooded hill, called the
King's Seat, derives its name from the circumstance
of its having been the place where the Scottish nio-
narchs placed themselves, in order to direct their
shafts with advantage at the flying deer, when driven
that way for their amusement; and, according to a
story told by William Barclay in his treatise ' Contra
Monarchomachos,' a chase of this kind had very
nearly prevented-the future miseries of the unhappy
Mary Stuart. The road, which passes through Dow-
ally to Athole, has been cut with great labour and
expense along the bottom of the King's Seat, which
overhangs the river so closely, and at such a height,
that the timid traveller, who looks over the wall
that has been built to support it, is little disposed to
linger on his way. The Gaelic language is com-
monly spoken here, though all the inhabitants under-
stand the English more or less perfectly ; and it is
curious, that the hills of King's Seat and Craigie
Barns, have been for centuries the separating barrier
of these languages. In the first house below them,
the English language is, and has been long spoken ;
while the Gaelic invariably prevails in the first house
above them, and at not more than a mile distant.
See Dunkeld.
DOWALTON (Loch), a fine fresh-water lake
on the north-west boundary of the parish of Sorbie,
Wigtonshire. It has its name from the family of
M'Dowall, the proprietor of the lands in which it
is imbosomed ; but is also sometimes called Long-
castle Loch. On the north, it sends out a stream
which, flowing eastward over a course of 4J miles,
and intersecting the parish of Sorbie, falls into the
sea at Garlieston. The lake is about 3 miles in
circumference, and from 5 to 20 feet deep. On its
western side it has an island of about SO acres in
area, on which are traces of an old building called
Longcastle.
DOWNE-HILL, in the parish of Edenkillie, in
Morayshire, an apparently artificial elevation which
appears to have been a fortress of great antiquity.
It is of a conical shape, round a considerable part of
which runs the rapid Divie, in a deep rocky channel;
and, where not defended by the river, it is encircled
by a deep ditch with a strong rampart, the stones of
which bear marks of fusion.
BRAINY, a parish in Elginshire, bounded on the
north by the Moray frith ; on the east by the river
Lossie, which divides it from the parishes of St.^
Andrews and Urquhart ; on the south by the site of
the once beautiful loch of Spynie, which dividesit from
the parish of Spynie, though it is now drained into a
stagnant morass ; and on the west by the parish of
Duffus. Before Loch Spynie was drained, this parish
consisted of a peninsula formed by it, the Lossie, and
the Moray frith, stretching east and west, about 4
miles in length along the coast, and 2 to 3 in breadth.
The name of the parish is supposed to have origi-
nated from the draining of swamps and marshes in
the vicinity. This part of the country, in general,
is low and flat. There are only two small eminences
meriting the name of hills. The soil is partly a rich
DUE
331
DRO
loam or clay, and partly a light black sandy mould, —
very fertile and well-cultivated. On the moor lands
there is good pasturage. The soil of the old bed of
Spynie loch, which partly belongs to this parish —
and from the draining of which, about the year 1807,
at an expense of £10,800, great profit was antici-
pated— has not yet been found to be of much value.
It is deeply impregnated with sulphur and iron, and
only affords some coarse pasturage, neither whole-
some nor nutritious, and possessing, it is affirmed, the
property of converting the colour of the black cattle
which prevail here into grey! The draining, how-
ever, has redeemed some rich and valuable clay lands
near its margin. This loch discharged itself into the
Lossie, about a mile from the sea. A canal now
runs a little from the north of Spynie castle, on the
site of Spynie loch, through Drainy parish to the
Lossie, a little above Lossiemouth. Through the
low plains, on each side of the Lossie, as it runs from
Elgin along the eastern border of this parish to the
sea, large embankments of earth have been raised at
great expense, in order to prevent a recurrence of
the calamitous inundation which happened in 1829,
of which a very interesting description is given in
Sir Thomas Dick Lauder's ' Account of the Great
Floods in Morayshire. ' The two small eminences or
hills in this parish abound with white and yellow
freestone, which is in great request for building
over all this quarter of the country. In the Coulart
hill, between Lossiemouth and Stotfield, there are
appearances of lead ; but an English adventure en-
tered into shortly previous to the publication of the
Old Statistical Account, at an expense of £500, en-
tirely failed. The hill of Causea, or Cave-sea, con-
sists of one continuous mass of freestone, upwards of
a mile in length, and forming a bold shore, cut and
excavated by the surge into curious arches, caves,
and pyramids. The scenery here is grand and pic-
turesque. At Lossiemouth, also, a natural cave,
about 10 feet square, called St. Gerardine's cave, was
adorned with a handsome Gothic door and windows,
and a medicinal spring issuing from the rock above
the hermitage : but in the course of working the
quarries, it has been totally destroyed Lossiemouth,
at the efflux of the Lossie, is the principal village. It
is situated near the point of Stotfield-head, in the
north-east corner of the parish, and is a port for small
shipping. It stands 5 miles north-east of the royal
burgh of Elgin. There are fishing hamlets at Causea
and Stotfield Population of Lossiemouth, in 1831,
535; of Stotfield, 168: of the parish, in 1801, 1,057;
in 1831, 1,298. Houses 272. Assessed property,
in 1815, £7,832 This parish is in the synod of
Moray, and presbytery of Elgin. It consists of the
two ancient parishes of Kinnedder and Ogstown,
which were united soon after the Restoration, and
received the name of Drainy from the erection of a
new central church on its lands at the annexation.
Minister's stipend £242 7s. 5d. Patron, Gumming
of Altyre. Church built about the end of the 17th
century Salary of parochial schoolmaster £36 7s.
lfd., with about £7 fees, &c. There are 4 private
schools in the parish.
DREGHORN,* a parish in the southern part of
the district of Cunningham, Ayrshire. It is an irre-
gular stripe, about 8 miles long, and from | of a mile
to 2 miles broad, stretching from south-west to
north-east. On three sides its boundary is marked
by streams ; on the east by Carrier or Gawrier burn,
which divides it from Kilmaurs ; on the south by
Irvine water, which divides it from Dundonald ; and
on the west and north-west by Annock water, which
* In early charters, the nam* was written Drcgern; and it
is probably derived from the British Tre. quern, which signifies
the town or habitation by the swamp, or by the alder-trees.
divides it from Irvine and Stewarton ; and on the
north-east the parish is bounded by Fenwick. Ac
the south-west end — which is distant only a mile
from the coast — the surface is a dead flat very slightly
above sea-level ; but it thence rises, in gentle undu-
lations, toward the east and north-east, and both in
the interior, and especially along the banks of the
Annock, wears a pleasing appearance. In the flat
grounds, the soil is sandy and gravelly ; but in the
other districts, it is a fine deep loam, remarkably
fertile. The whole parish, except a few acres of
meadow-land, is under cultivation, well-enclosed,
and judiciously interspersed with plantation. Coal
and limestone are worked ; and freestone is found.
The parish is intersected eastward by the road from
Irvine to Kilmarnock, and north-eastward by the
road from Irvine, through Stewarton to Glasgow;
and is provided with numerous cross or subordinate
roads. The village of Dreghorn is situated in the south-
west district of the parish, on the first gentle acclivity
above the flat grounds, andcommandsafine view of the
frith of Clyde, and the coast of Ayrshire. The houses
stand in irregular lines, and, being interspersed with
trees, and whitewashed, make a fine rural grouping
to the eye. The village is 2 miles from Irvine, on
the highway between that town and Kilmarnock ;
and has about 300 inhabitants. Population of the
parish, in 1801, 797; in 1831, 888. Houses 149.
Assessed property, in 1815, £11,895 Dreghorn
is in the presbytery of Irvine, and synod of Glas-
gow and Ayr. Patron, the Earl of Eglinton.
Stipend £176 13s. lOd. ; glebe £3. Unappro-
priated teinds £826 14s. lOd. The church was
built in 1780, and is situated in the village. Sittings
427. From a fourth to a third of the parishioners are
Dissenters, most of whom are connected with con-
gregations in Irvine Schoolmaster's salary £29 18s.
10Jd., with £60 other emoluments. There are 2
schools nonparochial Dreghorn, in its present
form, comprehends the ancient parishes of Dreghorn
and Pierce-town, which were united in 1668. The
churches of both parishes anciently belonged to the
monks of Kilwinning, and were served by vicars. In
1603, the patronage of the church of Pierce-town,
with the tithes and church-lands, were granted to
Hugh, the Earl of Eglinton.
DREINICH, a small island in Loch Linnhe, near
the island of Lismore.
DREM, a small farm- village, 4 miles north of Had-
dington, in the parish of Athelstaneford : which
see. On the abolition of hereditary jurisdictions,
John Hamilton was paid £500 for the regality of
Drem.
DRHUIM (The), an exquisitely beautiful por-
tion of the strath of the Beauly, on the grounds of
Lord Lovat.
DRIMMITORMENT. See Dcnnichen.
DRIMODUNE. See Arran.
DRON, a parish in the south-eastern part of
Perthshire. It is bounded on the north by the
parish of Dunbarnie ; on the south by the parishes of
Forgandenny and Arngask, and the water of Farg,
which separates it from Fifeshire ; on the west by
Dunbarnie and Forgandenny; and on the east by
the parish of Abernethy, from which it is partly se-
parated by Farg water. It is 3J miles in length,
from east to west, and about 3 miles in breadth, be-
ing one of the smallest and most thinly peopled par-
ishes in the county of Perth. The high road from
Queensferry to Perth passes through the eastern part
of the parish. The southern part of the parish is
occupied by the Ochils, and from these eminences
to near its northern boundary the parish forms a sort
of sloping plain. The northern part of the parish
forms a ridge of small elevation running from west
DRO
332
D'RU
to east. The soil in the low grounds is principally
of clay, till, and loam. The Old Statistical Ac-
count gives the following account of an extraordi-
nary occurrence which took place in this parish
ahout the end of last century : " In that part of
the Ochils which fronts the house of Ecclesiam-
agirdle, a very singular phenomenon took place
about 7 years ago. After a long series of rainy
weather, the hill, about 100 paces from the summit,
burst open with a loud explosion like thunder,
which was heard at the distance of two miles across
the valley. A violent and rapid torrent, mixed with
earth and stone and broken rock, issued from the
opening, and rushed down with an impetuosity which
swept all before it. The inhabitants of some houses
which stood immediately below, alarmed at once
mth the noise and torrent, which directed its course
full towards them, were preparing to flee for their
safety, when happily the torrent deviated into a dif-
ferent tract, and after continuing to flow for 10 or
12 hours, it ceased, without having done any material
injury, and has remained quiet ever since." — A por-
tion of this parish, known by the name of Eccle-
siamagirdle, is isolated from the rest, being sur-
rounded by the parish of Dunbarnie on the north
and east, and the parish of Forgandenny on the south
and west. The etymology of the name has defied
the ingenuity of antiquaries, but it probably bore
some reference to a small chapel which formerly
stood in this part of the parish, and of which some
ruins, along with a burial-ground, still remain. The
only other relic of antiquity in the parish is a re-
markable rocking stone which stands on the south
descent of the hill opposite to the church and manse
of Dron. " It is," says the author of the Old Sta-
tistical Account, "a large mass of whinstone, of an
irregular figure, about 10 feet in length, and 7
in breadth, and stands in a sloping direction. On
gently pressing the higher end with the finger, it has
a perceptible motion, vibrating in an arch of between
one and two inches, and the vibration continues for
some time after the pressure is removed." — Popula-
tion, in 1801, 428 ; in 1831, 464. Assessed property
.£3,862— The parish of Dron is in the presbytery of
Perth, and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend £166 19s. 6d. ; glebe £9, with
£4 10s. per annum in lieu of coals. The parochial
school is the only place of elementary instruction in
the parish. The salary of the master is £34. Aver-
age attendance, in 1836, 18.
DRON, a hill in the parish of Longforgan, Perth-
shire, elevated to the height of 667 feet above the
level of the sea.
DRONGS, a stupendous rock near Hillswick in
Northmaven. It is cleft in three places nearly to
the bottom, and when seen obscurely through a fog,
conveys the idea of a huge ship under sail.
DRONLAW. See Auchterhouse.
DROOTHY (The). See The Clunie.
DRUM (Loch). See Banchory-Tarnan.
DRUMALBINN. See Caledonians.
DRUMBLADE, a parish in the north-western
part of Aberdeenshire. On the north and east it is
bounded by the parish of Forgue ; on the south and
south-west by Insch, and part of Gartly parishes;
and on the east and north-east by Huntly parish. It
is principally divided from the surrounding parishes
by rivulets. Its length, from north to south, is from
5 to 6, and its breadth, from east to west, 4 to 5
miles: its circumference is about 18 miles. Super-
ficial area about 5,000 acres. Its form is triangular.
According to the Old Statistical Account, it " some-
what resembles the body of a fiddle." Its ancient
name was Drumblait, which signifies, in Gaelic,
' Hills covered with corn.' The surface is composed
of small hills and valleys. The soil of the latter is
deep loam ; that of the higher ground is thin and
gravelly, but fertile. Some of the hills are covered
with firs, but most are arable. The valleys produce
excellent crops. There is abundance of a very fine
yellow-brown clay here, called clay-marl, and used
as a compost for manure : very little sand appears in
it. The district possesses large quantities of coarse
limestone, freestone — here called paisy-whin — and
moor-stone, with some slate. The fuel commonly
used is peat, turf, heath, &c. English coal is procured
from Banff or Portsoy. Population, in 1801, 821 ; in
1831,978. Houses 169. Assessed property, in 181.5,
£3,058 The principal seat or residence in the par-
ish is Lessendrum. There are three tumuli here ;
at the largest of which, called Meet-hillock, near
Slioch, Bruce encamped, after having defeated Cum-
myn at Inverury. A small hill above this tumulus is
called Robin's height, and had on the top large stones
with inscriptions on them Drumblade is in the
synod of Aberdeen, and presbytery of Turriff. Pa-
tron, the Earl of Kintore. Stipend £159 9s. 7d. ;
glebe £16. Church built in 1778, and since enlarged,
chiefly subsequent to 1829-30; sittings 500. School-
master's salary £30 per annum, with about £26 10s.
fees, &c, exclusive of the bequest left to the paro-
chial master of Aberdeen, Banff and Elgin shires, ex-
pected, in 1834, to amount to between £20 and £30.
DRUMCLOG. See Avondale.
DRUMDERFIT, or Druimnadeur, that is, ' the
Ridge of Tears,' a rising ground in the parish of
Wester Kilmuir, or Knockbain, in Ross-shire, on
which are a great number of cairns, which are said
to indicate the spot of an extraordinary massacre of
the Isles men, about the year 1400.
DRUMGLOW. See Cleish.
DRUMLANRIG CASTLE, a magnificent seat
of the Duke of Buccleuch, in the parish of Duris-
deer, Dumfries-shire. It stands on a knoll or ris-
ing-ground, on the rU'.ht bank of the Nith, about 1 7
miles north-west of Dumfries, and 3i north-north-
west of Thornhill ; and, for several miles, forms an
arresting feature in a rich and remarkably varied
landscape, to the eye of a traveller passing along the
highway which traverses the picturesque vale of the
Nith. The castle is a hollow square, four stories high,
surmounted with turrets at the angles, and presents
such an array of windows, that the peasantry of the
vale fondly report them to be as numerous as the
days of the year. From the inner court, staircases
ascend at the angles in semicircular towers. On the
architraves of the windows and doors is a profuse
adorning of hearts and stars, the arms of the Doug-
lasses. The castle fronts to the north, and has also
a noble appearance on the east, combining, on each
side, the aspects of strength and beauty, — the linea-
ments of a fortress and a mansion ; and it is every
night secured, not only by a thick door of oak, but
by a ponderous gate of iron. Though more Gothic
than Grecian, and marked with considerable archi-
tectural defects, it is a noble and imposing edifice ;
and suggests ideas of a princely chieftain holding his
court among dependents and vassals. This great
pile occupied ten years in building, and was finished
in 1689, the year after the Revolution. William,
first Duke of Queensberry— celebrated in civil his-
tory as a statesman, and in the annals of the Cove-
nanters as an abettor of persecution — planned and
completed it ; and he expended upon it such enor-
mous sums of money, and during the only night of
his residing within its walls, was so exacerbated by
the inaccessibility of medical advice to relieve hiin
from a temporary fit of illness, that he abandoned it
in disgust, and afterwards, in the unpolished lan-
guage of the period, wrote upon the artificers' bills
DRU
333
DRU
for erecting it, — " The deil pike out his een that
looks herein I" A portrait in the gallery — that of
William III is, in its wounds and defacement, a
memorial of the Highlanders having occupied the
castle on their march in 1745. Orumlanrig was the
principal residence of the family of Queensberry.
But on the death of Charles, the third Duke, in
1777, without male issue, it passed, along "with the
Queensberry titles, to William, Earl of March ; and
upon the death of the latter in 1810, it went by en-
tail to the Duke of Buccleuch. During both these
periods, and for years afterwards, it was little occu-
pied, greatly neglected, and defaced. But the pre-
sent noble proprietor has, since his majority in 1827,
adopted it as his favourite residence, and has brought
the house itself, and the beautiful grounds around it,
into a smiling and polished condition. Pennant says:
" The beauties of Drumlanrig are not confined to
the highest part of the grounds ; the walks, for a
very considerable way by the sides of the Nith,
abound with most picturesque and various scenery.
Below the bridge the sides are prettily wooded, but
not remarkably lofty; above, the views become
wildly magnificent. The river runs through a deep
and rocky channel, bounded by vast wooded cliffs,
that rise suddenly from its margin ; and the prospect
down from the summit is of a terrific depth, increased
by the rolling of the black waters beneath. Two
views are particularly fine : one of quick repeated
but extensive meanders amidst broken sharp-pointed
rocks, which often divide the river into several chan-
nels, interrupted by short and foaming rapids col-
oured with a moory taint ; — the other is of a long
strait, narrowed by the sides, precipitous and wood-
ed, approaching each other equidistant, horrible from
the blackness and fury of the river, and the fiery red
and black colours of the rocks, that have all the ap-
pearance of having sustained a change by the rage of
another element." Till a few years ago, there was
perserved in the park of Drumlanrig a remnant of the
aboriginal wild cattle of Scotland. [See article
Cujibernadld.] " These animals," says Mr. Gil-
pin, who saw the objects he describes, "are milk-
white, except their noses, ears, and orbits of their
eyes, which are of a dark-brown, approaching to
black. They are described by old writers as having
manes; but these have none. They resemble the
cow in many respects ; but their form is more ele-
gant, with a spirited wildness in their looks; and
when they run, instead of the clumsy cow-gallop,
they bound like deer." Pennant, who also saw
these animals while here in June, 1772, has this
memorandum : " In my walks about the park see the
white breed of wild cattle, derived from the native
race of the country, and still retain the primeval
savageness and ferocity of their ancestors ; were more
shy than any deer ; ran away on the appearance of
any of the human species, and even set off at full
gallop on the least noise ; so that I was under the
necessity of going very softly under the shelter of
trees or bushes to get a near view of them. During
summer they keep apart from all other cattle, but in
severe weather hunger will compel them to visit the
out-houses in search of food. The keepers are
obliged to shoot them if any are wanted. If the
beast is not killed on the spot, it runs at the person
who gave the wound, and who is forced, in order to
save himself, to fly for safety to the intervention of
some tree. These cattle are of a middle size, have
very long legs, and the cows are fine horned. The
orbits of the eyes and the tips of the noses are black ;
but the bulls have lost the manes attributed to them
by Boethius."
DRUMLITHIE, a considerable manufacturing
village in the parish of Glenbervie, on the line of
road from Laurencekirk to Stonehaven; distant from
the former 7i miles, and 6 from the latter.
DRUMMELZIER,* a parish in Peebleshire ;
bounded on the north-west by Stobo ; on the north
by Manor ; on the east by Manor and Lyne ; on the
south by Tweedsmuir ; and on the west by Lanark-
shire and Glenholm. It is of a remarkable figure,
not unlike the outline of a decapitated human body,
in a sitting posture, the neck a little elongated. At
one point, from Glenkerierig-hill on the west, to
Black Dody hill on the east, it is 5 miles in breadth;
but during one-fourth of its length, it is only 2^ miles
broad, and during one-half of it, no more than from
# to I}. Yet, in extreme length, it extends from
Catlercleugh on the south-west, to Mounthill on
the north-east, 13| miles. It stretches from the
mountain-ridge or water-line, which divides Peebles-
shire from Lanark, away north-eastward into the
centre of the county. Kingledoors burn rises in the
heights which divide the two counties, and intersects
a limb of the parish over a distance of 4i miles.
There the Tweed, having entered the parish from
the south, flows directly across, receiving the waters
of this burn on its way ; and it thence forms the
north-western boundary-line over a distance of 9
miles. On the other hand, the eastern or south-
eastern boundary-line is formed by a ridge of heights
which separate the local waters of Drummelzier from
those of Manor. The body of the parish is thus a
slope or acclivity of hills looking down upon the
Tweed, and terminating in the vale upon its banks.
Its indigenous brooks, 7 in number, all rise toward
the east, and run down westward or north-westward
to pour their waters into the Tweed. But though
a hilly district, and forming a part of the southern
high-lands, the parish contains much arable land, and
is finely variegated with plantations and cultivated
fields. The vale along the river is in general narrow;
yet, in some places, it expands into beautiful haughs ;
and, where the rivulets break down from the heights,
it opens into fine cleughs or glens. This vale is the
chief scene of culture, and the principal seat of the
population. The soil in the haughs is rich alluvial
loam ; but elsewhere is, in general, sharp and very
stony. Limestone and slate are found, but are not
worked. Drummelzier castle — formerly a seat of the
Tweedie family, and a link in a chain of fortresses,
now all in nun, along the banks of the Tweed —
overlooks the river from a beautiful site environed
with plantation. There are, in the parish, vestiges
of a Roman road, and of two old castles, — one of the
latter 6 feet thick in the walls, and held together by
a cement as hard as stone, yet so old, that no tradi-
tion remains of even the period of its destruction.
Upon a spot near the junction of the Powsail rivu-
let with the Tweed, is a tumulus, reported to be the
grave of the famous wizard, Merlin. It is said that
Merlin predicted the union between the two king-
doms, and the prophetic couplet was thought to have
been of some use In conciliating the prejudices of the
people. It runs nearly as follows : —
" When Tweed and Poussil meet at Merlin's grave,
Scotland and England one king shall have."
Except a road along the Tweed, which, during more
than half the distance, traverses the western side of
the river, and does not strictly belong to the parish,
Drummelzier is quite unprovided with facilities of
communication ; and throughout its south-western
limb — which, though narrow, is long — it has no proper
road whatever. The village of Drummelzier is
beautifully situated on the Powsail, one-fourth of a
* The name is popularly pronounced, and occasionally writ-
ten, Drummellier. "The whole word." says the author of
Caledonia, " is probably the British Urym-meiliaur, signifying
* the Dwelling on or at the ridge.' "
DRU
334
DRY
mile above its confluence with the Tweed, and con-
tains something less than 100 inhabitants. Popula-
tion of the parish, in 1801, 278; in 1831, 223. Houses
42. Assessed property, in 1815, .£4,668 Drum-
melzier, formerly a vicarage of the rectory of Stobo,
is in the presbytery of Peebles, and synod of Lothian
and Tweeddale. Patron, Trotter of Ballendean.
Stipend £192 Ss. 7d. ; glebe £10. Schoolmaster's
salary £32, with £11 8s. Hd. of other emoluments.
The present parish consists of the original Drummel-
zier, and the southern and larger part of the old parish
of Da wick. [See Da wick.] At Kingledoors, in the
south-eastern part of Drummelzier, formerly was a
chapel, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, the early evan-
gelist of Tweedside ; and, along with its appurte-
nances, and the lands of Hopcarshire, it was granted
to the monks of Melrose.
DRUMMOND, a village in the parish of Kilt-
earn, near the river Skiack, on the post-road from
Dingwall to Novar inn. It has two well-attended
fairs, — one in June, and the other in December.
The parish-school is here.
DRUMMOND CASTLE, in the parish of Mu-
thil, 2 miles south of Crieff, was for many genera-
tions the residence of the noble family of Perth, and
is now a seat of Lord and Lady Gwydyr. Behind
the present castle are the ruins of one still more an-
cient, but of its history few authentic facts remain.
Drummond castle, as it now appears, has undergone
little or no exterior alteration for nearly a century.
It forms two sides of a quadrangle, facing north
and west. The front walls are ornamented with
creeping woodbine, and a variety of evergreens.
To the south of the castle, and in its immediate
vicinity, under a steep bank, is an extensive flower-
garden, laid out in the Dutch taste. Near a mile to
the east is the fish-pond, — a large sheet of water,
forming an agreeable feature in the landscape. At
the termination of the last struggle for the Stuarts,
— in which cause, James, Duke of Perth, acted
1 conspicuous part, — Government erected on the
spot now covered by this lake, a kind of fortified
village, which was occupied for some time after by
the royal troops, as a post of observation, this being
the centre of Strathearn, and the principal pass or
key to the North Highlands. Not a vestige now
remains of this once formidable military encampment.
The family of Drummond was always ranked among
the most ancient and illustrious names of the Scot-
tish nation, and was distinguished by a long train of
worthy ancestors not less remarkable for the noble
alliances they made, and the dignities conferred on
them, than for personal merit. Sir Malcolm Drum-
mond flourished in the middle of the 12th century.
From him descended Sir John Drummond of Stob-
hall, who made a great figure in the reigns of James
III. and IV., and was concerned in most of the pub-
lic transactions of the time. He was raised to the
peerage by the title of Lord Drummond, January 14,
1487. His grandson James, 4th peer, was created
Earl of Perth, March 4, 1605. His great nephew,
James, 4th Earl, was successively Lord-justice-gen-
eral, and Lord-chancellor of Scotland. On the ac-
cession of James II. of England, he was in great
favour with that monarch, and attempted to follow
him abroad after his abdication, but was taken, and
suffered four years' imprisonment. On his liberation
he followed his master, who created him Duke of
Perth, first lord of the bedchamber, knight of the
garter, &c. He died at St. Germains in May, 1716,
and was interred in the chapel of the Scottish col-
lege at Paris. His eldest son James — by Lady
Jane Douglas — attached himself firmly to the House
of Stuart. He opposed the Union, and was very
active in the insurrection of 1715. His son James,
called Duke of Perth, imbibed all the principles of
his family, and joined the standard of the young
Pretender. At the battle of Preston he acted as
lieutenant-general; "and in spite of a very delicate
constitution," says Douglas, "he underwent the
greatest fatigues, and was the first on every occasion
of duty, where his head or his hands could be of use ;
bold as a lion_m the field, but ever merciful in the
hour of victory." After the battle of Culloden had
extirpated the hopes of the house of Stuart, he em-
barked for France, but died on the passage, May 13,
1 746. Having died before the limited time appointed
by parliament for the surrendering, he escaped the
attainder, but it fell on his brother and heir John,
who was embarked in the same cause, and whose
estate and title were forfeited to the Crown.
DRUMOAK, sometimes called Dalmaik, a par-
ish partly in Aberdeenshire, partly in Kincardine ; in
extent about 4 miles long and 2 broad. It is bounded
on the north by Echt and Peterculter parishes ; on
the east and south by Maryculter ; on the south by
Maryculter and Durris ; and on the west by Banchory
Tarnan. The surface is hilly, a great part being
only fit for sheep-pasture. The tower of Drum, in
this parish, is a very ancient edifice. Population, in
1801, 648; in 1831, 804. Houses, in 1831, in Aber-
deenshire, 128 ; in Kincardineshire, 35. Assessed
property, in 1815, £1,405. — This parish, formerly a
vicarage, is in the presbytery and synod of Aberdeen.
Patron, Irvine of Drum. Stipend £157 14s. Id. ;
glebe £21 16s. 8d Schoolmaster's salary £30, with
£22 fees.
DRUMSTURDY-MUIR, a straggling hamlet in
the parish of Monifieth, on the old road from Dun-
dee to Arbroath, Forfarshire. Rising immediately
on the south of it is the far-seeing Laws-hill, on the
summit of which is a vitrified fort.
DRYBURGH ABBEY, a noble edifice, now in
ruins, situated about 4 miles from Melrose, on the
north bank of the Tweed, in the most delightful part
of the vale of that river, famed as it is for beauty
along its whole extent. The abbey, overgrown
with ivy, and adorned with flowers, stands amidst
the gloom of wood, on a verdant level, above high
banks of red earth which confine the course of
the river, whose rapid stream here makes a bold
sweep around the park and mains-farm of Dry-
burgh, in its passage onwards. Mr. George Smith,
architect, states that the ruins are so overgrown
with the luxuriant foliage, that he found great
difficulty in taking accurate measurements of them.
"Everywhere you behold the usurpation of nature
over art. In one roofless apartment a fine spruce
and holly are to be seen flourishing in the rubbish ;
in others, the walls are completely covered with ivy ;
and, even on the top of some of the arches, trees
have sprung up to a considerable growth, and these,
clustering with the aspiring pinnacles, add character
to the Gothic pile. These aged trees on the summit
of the walls are the surest records we have of the
antiquity of its destruction." The structure was
originally cruciform, divided in the breadth into
three parts by two colonnaded arcades. The cross or
transepts and choir have all been short ; a part of
the north transept which is still standing, called St.
Mary's aisle, is a beautiful specimen of early Gothic
work. Perhaps the most striking feature in the re-
mains is a fine Norman arch, which was originally the
western doorway. Its enrichments are in the style
of the 1 2th century, and little affected by time. The
monastery is a complete ruin. Nothing is entire but
the chapter-house, St. Modan's chapel, and the ad-
joining passages. The chapter-house is 47 feet long,
23 broad, and 20 in height. At the east end there
are five pointed windows ; the western extremity
DRYBURGH ABBEY.
335
contains a circular-headed centre-window, with a
smaller one on either side. The hall is adorned
with a row of intersected arches. Mr. Smith con-
cludes his description with the following remarks : —
" From a minute inspection of the ruins we are led
to believe that there are portions of the work of a
much earlier date. The arch was the distinctive
feature of all structures of the middle ages, as the
column was of those of classic antiquity ; and among
these ruins we observed no fewer than four distinct
styles of arches, — namely, the massive Roman arch
with its square sides ; the imposing deep-splayed
Saxon ; the pillared and intersected Norman ; and
last, the early English pointed arch. These differ
not only in design, but in the quality of the materials
and in the execution. The chapter-house and abbot's
parlour, with the contiguous domestic dwellings of
the monks, we consider of much greater antiquity
than the church." [Monastic Annals of Teviotdale,
p. 323.] — These structures were built of a hard
pinkish-coloured sandstone, and exhibit a remarkable
diversity in their levels. Near the ruins still flour-
ishes a fine tree which there is good reason to sup-
pose was planted seven centuries ago. The late
Earl of Buchan was devotedly attached to this place.
At a short distance from the abbey he constructed
an elegant wire suspension-bridge over the Tweed,
260 feet in length, and 4 feet 7 inches between the
rails, which was very recently blown down. His
lordship also erected on his grounds here an Ionic
temple, with a statue of Apollo in the inside, and
a bust of the bard of ' The Seasons' surmounting
the dome. He also raised a colossal statue of
Sir William Wallace, on the summit of a steep and
thicklv planted hill; which was placed on its pe-
destal September 22, 1S14, the anniversary of the
victory at Stirling bridge, in 1297. "It occupies
so eminent a situation," says Mr. Chambers, "that
Wallace frowning towards England, is visible even
from Berwick, a distance of more than 30 miles."
The statue is 2H feet high, and is formed of red
sandstone, painted white. It was designed by Mr.
John Smith, sculptor, from a supposed authentic
portrait, which was purchased in France by the
father of the late Sir Philip Ainslie of Pilton. The
hero is represented in the ancient Scottish dress and
armour, with a shield hanging from his left hand, and
leaning lightly on his spear with his right. Upon
a tablet below there is an appropriate inscription.
Sir Walter Scott, in the ' Minstrelsy of the Scot-
tish Border,' gives an interesting account of the Nun
of Dryburgh, — an unfortunate female wanderer, who
took up her abode, about eighty years ago, in a vault
amongst the ruins of this abbey, which during the
day she never quitted. It was supposed from an
account she gave of a spirit who used to arrange
her habitation, at night, during her absence in search
of food or charity at the residences of gentlemen in
the neighbourhood, that the vault was haunted ; and
it is still, on this account, regarded with terror by
many among the lower orders. She never could be
prevailed upon to relate to her friends the reason
why she adopted so singular a course of life; "but
it was believed," says Sir Walter, " that it was oc-
casioned by a vow that during the absence of a man
to whom she was attached, she would never look
upon the sun. Her lover never returned. He fell
during the civil war of 1745-6, and she never more
beheld the light of day." Allan Cunningham tells
us that the late Earl of Buchan waited upon Lady
Scott in 1819, when the illustrious author of Waver-
ley was brought nigh to the grave by a grievous ill-
ness, and begged her to intercede with her husband
to do him the honour of being buried in Dryburgh.
' The place,' said the Earl, 'is very beautiful, — just
such a place as the poet loves, and as he has a fine
taste that way, he is sure of being gratified with my
offer.' Scott, it is reported, good-humouredly pro-
mised to give Lord Buchan the refusal, since he
seemed so solicitous ; but the peer himself had made
his tomb in these ruins before the illustrious bard.
The last resting-place of Sir Walter Scott, is a small
spot of ground in an area formed by four pillars, in
one of the ruined isles which belonged to his family.
The ground originally belonged to the Halyburtons
of Merton, — an ancient and respectable baronial fa-
mily, of which Sir Walter's paternal grandmother was
a member, and of which Sir Walter himself was the
lineal representative. On a side- wall is the following
inscription : — " Sub hoc tumulo jacet Joannes Hali-
burtonus, Barro de Mertoun, vir religione et virtute
clarus, qui obiit 17 die Augusti, 1640." Below this
there is a coat-of-arms. On the back-wall the latter
history of the spot is expressed on a small tablet, as
follows: — " Hunc locum sepultune D. Seneschallus,
Buchani comes, Gualtero, Thoma; et Roberto Scott,
nepotibus Haliburtoni, concessit, 1791 ;" — that is to
say, the Earl of Buchan granted this place of sepul-
ture in 1791, to Walter, Thomas, and Robert Scott,
descendants of the Laird of Halyburton. The per-
sons indicated were the father and uncles of Sir
Walter Scott; but, though all are dead, no other
member of the family lies there, except his uncle
Robert, and his deceased lady. " From the limited
dimensions of the place," says Mr. Chambers, "the
body of the author of Waverley has been placed in a
direction north and south, instead of the usual fa-
shion ; and thus, in death at least, he has resembled
the Cameronians, of whose character he was suppos-
ed to have given such an unfavourable picture in one
of his tales." May no unhallowed hand ever violate
the sepulchre, wherein — to use the language of la-
ment which he himself penned over a brother-bard
— " that mighty genius, which walked amongst men
as something superior to ordinary mortality, is laid
as soundly to rest as the poor peasant whose ideas
never went beyond his daily task."
" He's ffone ! the glorious spirit's fled !
Tile Minstrel's strains are hush'd and o'er ;
And lowly lies the mighty dead.
* * * *
Still as the harp o'er Babel's streams,
For ever hangs his tuneful lyre ;
And he, with all his glowing dreams,
Quench'd like a meteor's lire I
So sleepe the great, the young, the brave.
Of all beneath the circling snn :
A muffled shroud— a dungeon grave —
To him — the Bard, remain alone !
So, Genius, ends thy blazing reign I
So mute the music of the tongue,
Which pour'd but late the loftiest straiD
That ever mortal sung.'"
It has been conjectured, that the name Dryburgh
takes its derivation from the Celtic Darach-bruuck,
— 'the Bank of the grove of oaks.' Some vestiges
of Pagan worship have been found on the Bass hiD,
— an eminence in its vicinity, — among which was an
instrument used for killing the victims in sacrifice.
In the early part of the 6th century a monastery was
founded here by St. Modan ; but it is supposed that
after his death the community was transferred to
Melrose. Mr. Morton observes, that it " was pro-
bably destroyed by the ferocious Saxon invaders
under Ida, the flame-bearer, who landed on the coast
of Yorkshire, in 547, and after subduing Northum-
berland, added this part of Scotland to his dominions
by his victory over the Scoto-Britons at Cattraeth."
Part of the original monastery is supposed to remain
in the sub-structure of the existing nuns. The pre-
sent structure was founded by Hugh de Morville,
Lord of Lauderdale, and Constable of Scotland,
DRY
336
DRY
about 1150. According to the Chronicle of Meh'os,
Beatrix lie Beauchamp, wife of De Morville, ob-
tained a charter of confirmation for the new founda-
tion, from David I. ; and the cemetery was conse-
crated on St. Martin's day, 1150, "that no demons
might haunt it;" but the community did not come
to reside here until the 13th of December, 1152.
The monks were Premonstratensians, from Alnwick.
Tradition says, that the English, under Edward II.,
in their retreat in 1322, provoked by the imprudent
triumph of the monks in ringing the church-bells at
their departure, returned and burnt the abbey in re-
venge. King Robert the Bruce contributed liberally
towards its repair, but it has been doubted whether
it ever was fully restored to its original magnificence.
Certain flagrant disorders, which occurred here in
the 14th century, drew down the severe censure of
Pope Gregory XI. upon the inmates. Many of the
abbots of Dryburgh were persons of high rank and
consequence. James Stewart, who was abbot in
1545, occasionally exchanged the cowl for the hel-
met. Having united his retainers with those of
some neighbouring nobles, they boldly determined
on making a raid on the English border, and cross-
ing the Tweed, burned the village of Horncliffe in
Northumberland ; but the garrisons of Norham and
Berwick attacked and drove them across the border
with considerable loss, before they could effect much
more damage. In the same year Dryburgh abbey
was destined again to be laid in ruins ; being plun-
dered and burnt by an English force under the Earl
of Hertford. The market-town of Dryburgh had
been previously destroyed by the troops of Sir George
Bowes. The last head of this house — the lands and
revenues of which were annexed to the Crown in 1587
■ — was David Erskine, natural son of Lord Erskine,
who is described as " ane exceeding modest, honest,
and shamefast man." The abbey and its demesnes
were granted by James VI. of Scotland to Henry
Erskine, Lord Cardross; second son of John, Earl of
Mar, the Lord-treasurer, and Mary, daughter of Esme
Stewart, Duke of Lennox, — the direct ancestor of
David Stewart Erskine, Earl of Buchan, elder brother
of Thomas Lord Erskine, Lord-chancellor, and uncle
to the late proprietor, Sir David Erskine The
estate of Dryburgh lies in the parishes of Mertoun,
St. Boswell's, and Melrose, in Berwickshire, and its
yearly rental, in 1840, was £800, exclusive of the
mansion-house and policy, extending to 52 acres.
DRYFE (The), a river in Annandale, Dumfries-
shire. It rises at the base of Loch Fell, on the
northern point of the parish of Hutton and Corrie ;
flows due south down the centre of that parish for
nearly 6 miles ; then bends suddenly round and flows
for about a mile eastward ; and again debouching,
takes permanently a south-western direction, over a
distance of 9 miles, through the lower part of Hut-
ton, the eastern wing of Applegarth, and the north-
western wing of Dryfesdale, when it falls into the
Annan. The stream has thus a course of about 16
miles. In the early part of its course it flows
through a hilly country clothed with verdure and
adorned with plantation ; but afterwards it traverses
a champaign country almost all under a rotation of
crops. In fair weather the stream is a mere rivulet,
clear and pure in its waters, and stored in its pools with
abundance of trout and a few salmon ; but in humid
weather, it is subject to sudden and impetuous floods,
which come furiously down from the uplands, lay
waste cultivated fields, sweep away produce and
stock, and occasionally plough up, over rich and
loamy soil, a new channel for the river. The Dryie's
impetuosity, or its property of 'driving' all before
it, is supposed to be alluded to in its name.
DRYFESDALE — popularly pronounced Drys-
dale* — a parish in the district of Annandale, Dumfries-
shire, occupying the centre of the large and beauti-
ful valley called the How of Annandale. It is
bounded on the north by Applegarth ; on the east by
Hutton, Tundergarth, and St. Mungo ; on the south
by Dalton ; and on the west by Lochmaben. It has,
in some degree, the figure of the outline of a sports-
man's powder-horn, the neck lying to the south.
It measures in extreme length, from a bend of the
Annan, opposite Dormount, on the south, to the
point where it is first touched by Corrielaw burn,
on the north-east, 7J miles ; and, in extreme breadth,
from a bend of the Annan, opposite Halleaths on
the west, to the confluence of Corrie water with
Milk water on the east, 5 miles. Its area is upwards
of 11,000 acres. The north-eastern division is an
agglomeration of verdant hills, partly cultivated and
partly in pasturage. The highest elevation is White
Woollen or White Wooen, so called from its having
formerly fed with its fine pasturage large flocks of
white sheep. Though rising 1,500 feet above the
level of the sea, and somewhat acclivitous in ascent,
it now nearly all luxuriates beneath dresses of grain,
and presents to the eye of a lover of scenic beauty
connected with agricultural improvement, a picture
which will live long in his remembrance; and, in
its turn, it commands from its summit a view of
other objects so beautiful, so various, so far-spread-
ing before the eye, stretching away in a complete
panorama of the picturesque, that the tourist will
feel attracted to it as a kind of temple of taste.
Standing on this hill, a spectator sees spread at his
feet the richly-tinted carpeting of the How of An-
nandale ; he looks across upon the brilliant land-
scape of Lower Nithsdale, foiled by the looming
hills of Galloway; he admires the serried horizon,
though limited view, toward the north; he sees
along the diversified scenery, now frowning and
highland, and now smiling and lowland, of Eskdale
and the English border ; and he looks away over the
sandy waste, or the tumultuous and careering waters
of the Solway frith, to the Isle of Man and the Irish
sea. Many views are more magnificent and thrilling,
but few live more soothingly and fondly in the ima-
gination. The other hills of Dryfesdale, for the most
part, are, like the chief one we have mentioned, cul-
tivated and under a rotation of crops. The western
and southern parts of the parish are in general flat
and in a state of high cultivation. Along the banks
of the Dryfe and the Annan, are tracts of rich holm-
land, the depositions of the streams from time imme-
morial, consisting of deep loam, easy of culture, and
luxuriantly fertile. The other flat grounds are, in
general, light and dry, lying on a slaty and ragged
rock or gravel, and, when properly cultivated, are
abundantly productive. The Annan forms the boun-
dary-line for about 6i- miles on the west and south ;
the Milk, for about 2 miles on the south-east ; and
the Corrie, for about 1| mile on the east; — and they
all diversify and enrich the landscape, and possess
considerable attractions to the angler. The Dryfe —
which was described in the preceding article — here
terminates its course, after traversing the parish over
a distance of 2J miles. The depositions which it-
makes, and the stretch of level land which it occa-
sionally desolates with its floods before entering the
Annan, are called Dryfe-sands. This locality is
memorable as the scene of a sanguinary contest, on
7th December, 1593, between the Maxwells and the
Johnstones. The former, though much superior in
numbers, were routed and pursued ; and lost, on the
field and in the retreat, about 700 men, including
* The name its derived from the river Dryfe, and wan an-
ciently applied to the entire district through which that stream
flows.
DRY
837
DRY
Lord Maxwell, their commander. Many of those
who perished or were wounded in the retreat, were
cut down in the streets of Lockerby ; and hence the
phrase, currently used in Annandale to denote a se-
vere wound, — " A Lockerby lick." On Dryfe-sands,
or the holm of Dryfe, about J a mile below the old
churchyard, are two very aged thorn-trees, called
"Maxwell's Thorns," with a tumulus at their base,
which mark the scene of the slaughterous onset. In
5 localities are vestiges of strong towers ; and in 8
places — chiefly eminences — are remains of camps or
forts, some square or Roman, and others circular or
British. The British camp most in preservation is
at Dryfesdale gate, and occupies about 2 acres of
ground, and commands an extensive view. The
counterpart of this, is a Roman one about i a mile to
the east, where, about the end of the first century,
the army of Julius Agricola, and the forces of Cor-
bredus Galdus, king of the Scots, met in warlike en-
counter. There are plain traces of the great Roman
road which traversed Dryfesdale, and which here
branched-otf into two great lines. [See Dumfkies-
shire.] The parish is intersected from north to
south by the mail-road between Glasgow and Lon-
don, and is traversed, at short intervals, and in
various directions, by minor roads. Though there are
several hamlets, Lockerby, a stirring and attractive
town, centrally situated, absorbs all the local trade :
— see Lockerby. Population of the parish, in 1801,
1,893; in 1831, 2,283. Houses 409. Assessed
property, in 1815, £8,285. — Dryfesdale is in the
presbytery of Lochmaben, and synod of Dumfries.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend £165 10s. 9d. ; glebe
£25. Unappropriated teinds £53 18s. 7d. The
parish-church, situated in Lockerby, was built in
1757. Sittings 750. In Lockerby is also a place
of worship belonging to the United Secession.
Here are 7 schools, 6 of them unendowed. Par-
ish schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4Jd., with £37
other emoluments. In Lockerby, are a subscrip-
tion library, a circulating library, and a public
reading-room. The church of Dryfesdale was an-
ciently dedicated to St. Cuthbert, and belonged, as
a mensal church, to the occupant of the see of Glas-
gow. The upper part of the parish — then called
Little Hutton, to distinguish it from the contermi-
nous parish of Hutton on the north — was a chapelry,
having its own place of worship at an extinct hamlet
called Little Hutton. There were also 2 other
chapels, — one at Becktoun, and the other at Quaas.
The former belonged to the Knights Templars, and
may still be traced in the vestiges of ancient tombs
in what formed its burying-ground. Quaas chapel
likewise has left local memorials ; and has likewise
contributed its font to serve as the market-cross of
Lockerby. The ancient parochial church of Dryfes-
dale stood on Kirkhill, on the south-east of the
Dryfe. In 1670, both it and part of the cemetery
around it, were swept away, and their site converted
into a sand-bed, by one of the Dryfe's impetuous in-
undations. Next year, a new church was built near
the former site, on what was thought a more secure
spot ; yet even this was, in a few years, so menaced
by the encroachments of the river, which tore away
piece alter piece of the cemetery, that, along with
its site, it was finally abandoned. These disasters
were regarded as the verification of an old saying of
Thomas the Rhymer, which a less astute observer of
the furiously devastating power of the Dryfe than he
might very safely have uttered : —
" Let spades and shonls do what they may,
Dryfe will have Drysdale kirk away.*'
The church of 1670, and even greater part of the
cemetery, have now wholly disappeared. A story
has long been current in Annandale exhibiting an
instance of the washing away of the bodies of the
dead, — that a widower, after mourning for a reason-
able time the spouse whom he had interred in Dryfes-
dale, wedded, on a wet and stormy day, a second
helpmate, and crossing the bridge at the head of the
bridal party, on their way homeward from the mar-
riage-ceremony, saw the coffin of his deceased wife
falling from " the scaur" into the torrent, and glid-
ing toward the spot on which he stood. In what
remains of the old cemetery, are two conspicuous
tombs or enclosed burying-plots, — one of them that
of the Johnstones, with their coat-of-arms sculptured
over the entrance.
DRYHOPE, a fortalice in the parish of Yarrow,
Selkirkshire ; 15 miles west by south of Selkirk,
near the lower extremity of St. Mary's lake. The
celebrated Mary Scott, " the flower of Yarrow," was
born here. She married Walter Scott, the laird or
Harden, a freebooter as renowned for his roving pro-
pensities as his wife for her beauty.
DRYMEN, an extensive parish in the western
district of Stirlingshire. Its form is nearly triangu-
lar. Its greatest length from north to south is about
14 miles, and its greatest breadth about 10. It is
bounded on the north by Perthshire, from which it
is separated at various points, by the waters of
Duchray, Kelty, and Forth; on the south by the
parish of Kiilearn and the shire of Dumbarton ; on
the west by the parish of Buchanan and by the
Catter burn and the Endrick, which separate it from
Dumbartonshire ; and on the east by the parishes of
Kippen, Balfron, and Kiilearn. The greater portion
of this parish is composed of mountain and moor,
and in no part- is it distinguished for fertility. A
large hilly tract in the north-western part of thj
parish is almost entirely covered with heath, and an
immense moss occupies the north-eastern angle.
Between these and also along the western part of
the parish is a narrow stripe of light, dry, gravelly
soil, being almost the only portion fit for the plough.
The extensive mosses in this parish, which bear very
unequivocal marks of a ligneous origin, seem to prove
that this part of Stirlingshire was formerly almost
entirely covered with wood. In 1795 an alder tree
in this parish measured 19ifeet round the trunk, and
an ash tree of immense age in the churchyard of Dry-
men measured, a few years ago, 15 feet. The greater
part of the uncultivated grounds afford pasture to
sheep and black cattle. By a return made in 1811
to Dr. Graham of Aberfoyle, the author of the Agri-
cultural Report on Stirlingshire, there were 2,093
black cattle, and 3,700 sheep in the parish of Dry-
men. Fairs are held at Drymen on the 1st Tuesday
of January, O. S. ; the 3d Tuesday of February, O.S. ;
the 3d Wednesday of April, O. S.; the 10th of May,
O. S. ; the 9th of June, O. S. ; the 3d Wednesday ot
July, O. S. ; the 23d of August, O. S. ; and the ] st
Friday of November, N. S. — Sheriffs small debt
circuit courts are held at Drymen on the 2d Tuesdays
of January, April, July, and October. The parlia-
mentary registration-court is also held at Drymen once
a-year.— Population, in 1801, 1,607; in 1831, 1,690.
Houses 283. Assessed property, in 1815, £8,399
The parish of Drymen is in the presbytery of Dum-
barton, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the
Crown. The parish-school was attended, in 1833, by
154 children. Salary of the master £31 ; school-fees
£25. There are also two other schools, which were
attended at the same period by 58 children. There
is a large sepulchral cairn, in the interior of which
several stone-coffins have been found, on the farm or
Finnich-Tenant in this parish; and near the hill of
Gartmore, in the north-eastern part of the parish, is
a Roman castellum in a fine state of preservation.
Y
DUA
338
DUD
It measures 50 paces square within the trenches.
The noble family of Drummond derives its name
from this parish, having, it is said, obtained a grant
of lands here sq early as the time of Malcolm Canmore,
and made Drymen their principal residence for 200
years before the time of David II., when they re-
moved to Perthshire. A tradition exists that John
Napier, the inventor of the logarithms, was born at
the farm-house of Drumbeg in this parish. Of the
truth of this there is some doubt. Part, however,
of his patrimonial inheritance lay here, and the house
of Gartness on the Endrick was a favourite residence
of this illustrious person, and the scene of many of
liis profound investigations. This parish, like others
in the western part of Stirlingshire, was down to a
late period subject to the exaction of black-mail by
the Macgregors of Glengyle. Sir Walter Scott men-
tions that on one occasion Rob Roy Macgregor sum-
moned all the heritors and farmers of this part of the
county to meet him at the kirk of Drymen to pay
this tribute. Only one gentleman ventured to de-
cline compliance, whose lands the freebooter and his
ketterans instantly swept of all they could drive
away.
DTJART CASTLE, an ancient building, once
the castle of the chief of the Macleans, occupying the
brink of a high cliff which shoots out from the coast
of Mull into the sound opposite Oban. It is 4i
miles from the ferry of Achnacraig, and consists
chiefly of a large square tower, with walls of an im-
mense thickness. Two additional buildings of more
recent construction — one of which was occupied by
a garrison towards the end of last century — connected
by a high wall, form with the tower an oblong square
of about 120 by 72 feet.
DUBBIESIDE, a village in the parish of Mark-
inch, Fifeshire, at the mouth and on the south bank
of the Leven. Its inhabitants are chiefly employed in
the manufacture of coarse linen. It is 7| miles north-
east of Dysart.
DUCHRAY (The), a small river in the west of
Stirlingshire. It rises on the northern declivity of
Benlomond, and flowing eastward forms for several
miles the boundary between the shires of Stirling
and Perth. At Blairvach, in the midst of wild and
singular scenery, it forms a fine cascade of 30 feet:
It falls into the Forth a little below the lake of
Menteith. On its banks, near the clachan of Aber-
foyle, is Duchray castle, formerly the seat of one of
the Graham family. It has been fitted up as a hunt-
ing-lodge.
DUDDINGSTON, a parish on the coast of Edin-
burghshire; bounded on the north by the parish of
South Leith ; on the south-east by the frith of
Forth; on the east by Inveresk; on the south by
Libberton; and on the west by St. Cuthbert's and
C'anongate. It is of very irregular outline; and
might have been nearly a rectangle, but for a tri-
angular elongation on its eastern side, and the at-
tachment of a westward stripe to its south-west
angle. On the north, from the east base of Arthur's
seat to the sea, it is only lj mile long; but on the
south, from Salisbury-green on the west to Magda-
lene-bridge on the shore, it is 3| miles. In its cen-
tral part, over half its length, it is nearly 1| mile in
breadth ; but in the western stripe it is only J of a
mile, and in the eastern angle diminishes from 1J
mile to a point. Nearly the whole of the parish is
dressed in the richest garb of cultivation. A fertile
soil, well-enclosed fields, a varied surface, the beau-
tiful demesne of the Marquis of Abercom, and a
delightful intermixture of lawn and tillage, of water-
scenery, rows of plantation, and fences of shrubbery,
render it an attractive environ of the proud metro-
polis of Scotland. Pow burn and Braid burn enter
it on the south-west, and, after forming a confluence,
diagonally intersect it, and diffuse in their progress
many beauties of mimic landscape. The united
stream is conducted through the pleasure-grounds of
the Marquis of Abercom in an artificial canal, and
afterwards traverses a romantic little dell, and passes
on to pay its tiny tribute to the sea. Duddingston
loch, spread out at the south-east base of Arthur's
seat, and measuring about 1^ mile in circumference,
smiles joyously amid the opulent scenery around it,
and in winter allures crowds of skaters from the
neighbouring city to its glassy bosom. On the north-
eastern bank of the lake rises the fine Grecian form
of Duddingston-bouse, surrounded by gardens, planta-
tions, mimic temples, and various adornings indicating
united opulence and taste. A little eminence, sur-
mounted by the venerable-looking parish-church,
under the south cope of Arthur's seat and overlook-
ing the lake, commands a wide expanse of beautiful
and picturesque scenery. Overshadowed by the bold
precipices of the neighbouring mountain, and shut
out by it from every view of the magnificent and
crowded city at its further base, a spectator feels
himself sequestered from the busy scenes which he
knows to be in his vicinity, or he hears their distant
hum dying away on the breeze, and disposing him to
enjoy the delights of solitude; and he looks south-
east and north over a gorgeous panorama of elegant
villas, towering castles, rich valleys, undulating hil-
locks, groves, ruins, and a plenteous variety of scenic
tints and shading, till his vision is pent up by the
Pentlands and Lammermoor, or glides away with the
sinking sea into the distant horizon. Many of the
scenes and objects within his view. — such as Craig-
miliar castle. — crowd his mind with historical recol-
lections; and others — such as the peopled shores and
the laden waters of the frith — portray, to him the
enterprise and refinements of a modern age. Whether
in the seclusion and loveliness of its own immediate
attractions, or in the exhibition it gives of the wide
landscape around it, softened and ruralized by the
intervention of the mountain-screen of Arthur's seat
hiding Edinburgh from the view, the little eminence
of Duddingston is captivating in its attractions, and
draws to its soothing retirement many a tasteful or
studious citizen of the metropolis to luxuriate in its
pleasures. The pedestrian approach to it from the
city possesses allurements of its own, to heighten the
attractions of the resort ; leading by a pleasant path
through the king's park, and under the basaltic co-
lumns of Samson's ribs, overhanging the tunnel of
the Edinburgh and Dalkeith railway. Though the
parish, in its present state, is not excelled in the
loveliness and exuberance of cultivation by any dis-
trict in Scotland, and may compete with the finest
spots in the rich champaign of England, it was, so
late as 150 years ago, an unreclaimed moor, covered
with sand, and variegated only by the rankest and
most stunted shrubbery and weeds. About the year
1688, the proprietor of the estate of Prestonfield was
Lord-provost of Edinburgh; and, better acquainted
than his contemporaries with the value and fertilizing
powers of city manure, he availed himself of ready
and thankful permission, to carpet and enrich the
sterile soil of his property with the accumulations of
the yards and streets of the metropolis. So success-
ful was his astute policy that, arid and worthless as
his lands had been, they speedily became the first
which were enclosed in the vicinity of Edinburgh,
and are still esteemed the best grass pastures about
the city, or perhaps any where else in Scotland.
About the year 1751, the Earl of Abercorn, proprie-
tor of the estate of Duddingston, compensated in
vigour what had been lost by delay, in imitating the
successful movements on the conterminous property ;
DUD
339
DUF
and having subdivided his estate into commodious
farms, and enclosed and beautified it with hedgerows
and clumps of plantation, expended £30,000 in rear-
ing the architectural pile, and spreading out the array
of water-embellishments and landscape decorations,
■which preside in its centre. Coal of excellent quality
abounds in the parish, and finds a ready market in
the metropolis. The strata of limestone and iron-
stone which run north-eastward through Edinburgh-
shire, traverse the parish, and dip into the sea near
its eastern extremity, and are said to look up again
from the surface on the opposite coast of Fife. Clay
of so pure a kind has been found as to he material
for stoneware, and for crucibles capable of sustaining
without injury a very high degree of heat. On the
coast, in the interstices of rocks and stones, have
been found curious and rare vegetable petrifactions ;
some of them resembling the finest Marseilles quilt-
ing, and others formed of reeds and shrubs known to
be indigenous only in tropical countries. Small
pieces of chalcedony and porphyry, and large masses
of agate, have been picked up on the beach ; but may
now, it is presumed, be vainly sought for, after the
peering searches of numerous virtuosos of a former
generation. Marl of different kinds, of great rich-
ness and in much plenty, has been found in Dudding-
ston loch. Indigenous plants of upwards of 400
species, and exhibiting a curioui ?.ftd interesting vari-
ety, allure the botanist to gratity his taste, and ad-
mire the interminable displays of creative skill and
beneficence, round the banks of the loca, and along
the roots and skirts of Arthur's seat. The Fishwives'
causeway, forming the north-east boundary of the
parish, and once a part of the great post-road to
London, bears marks of considerable antiquity, and
is supposed to be a remnant of those regular roads,
converging to Holyrood-house, which Mary, of de-
bated memory, patronized as a means of soothing or
omf benefiting her turbulent subjects. At the mouth
of Duddingstoh burn, have been found, buried in a
deep stratum of clay, and from hark to core as black
as ebony, the trunks of large oak trees, — remnants,
it is supposed, of the King's forest, in which the in-
mates of the monastery of the Holy Cross had the
privilege of nourishing their hogs. The Figgetwhins,
formerly a forest, stretching over a considerable ter-
ritory— sold in 1762 or 1763 for only £1,500 — and
now in part the opulent and beautiful tract around
Portobello, and in part the site of that extensive and
smibng suburb of the metropolis, are said to have
been a place of shelter and of rendezvous to Sir Wil-
liam Wallace and his copatriots, when they were
preparing to attack Berwick. Monteath, the secre-
tary of Cardinal Richelieu of France, David Malcolm,
an essayist, a celebrated linguist, and a member of
the Antiquarian society about 1739, and Pollock, pro-
fessor of divinity in Aberdeen, were all ministers of
Duddingston. The parish is cut, through its western
wing or stripe, by the Edinburgh and Dalkeith rail-
way, and is intersected from west to east near the
shore by the Leith branch. It is traversed also by
the great turnpike from Edinburgh to London, by
way of Berwick. Population, in 1801, 1,0.03; in
1831, 3,862. Houses 633. Assessed property, in
1815, 14,194.
Duddingston contains the parliamentary burgh of
Portobello, [See Portobello,] the villages of Joppa
and Easter and Wester Duddingston, and the ham-
lets of Duddingston-mill and Duddingston Salt-pans.
Joppa is a suburb of Portobello, with 389 inhabitants
in 1831. — Easter Duddingston is situated in the east-
ern angle of the parish, on a rising ground near the
sea, and consists of a few plain cottages inhabited by
labourers. Population, in 1831, 171 Wester Dud-
dingston,- situated on the north side of the loch, was
once populous, and contained 30 looms ; but now,
though neat in appearance, and beautiful in situation,
surrounded by gardens and plantations, and so attrac-
tive as to draw to its villa- like cottages summer-
residents from Edinburgh, is very small, and contained
only 225 permanent inhabitants in 1831. At the east
end of it a house still stands in which Prince Charles
slept on the night before the action at Prestonpans.*
Duddingston-mill is a joyous little hamlet, containing
the parochial school, and delightfully situated near the
centre of the parish, about A a mile east from Wester
Duddingston. Near it is Cauvin's hospital, an edifice
resembling a large elegant villa, built in 1833, and
maintained, for the board and liberal education of 20
boys, by a munificent bequest of Louis Cauvin, a
Duddingston farmer Duddingston Salt-pans con-
sist of some straggling houses on the coast to the
eastward of Joppa.
The parish of Duddingston is in the presbytery of
Edinburgh, and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale,
Patron, the Marquis of Abercorn. Stipend £248
19s. 5d. ; glebe £30. Unappropriated tenuis £118
4s. lid. The parish-church is a building of con-
siderable antiquity, and, from the structure of the
arches and the peculiar character of the ornaments,
has been supposed by some to have been of Saxon
erection. A very beautiful semicircular arch divides
the choir from the chancel. In the churchyard is an
elegant marble obelisk, to the memory of Patrick
Haldane, Esq. of Gleneagles. During the reign of
William the Lion the monks of Kelso acquired the
church and lands of Duddingston; and these being
at an inconvenient distance from their abbey, they
appointed baron-bailies, and on advantageous terms
to tenants let the lauds. In 1630, the estate of
Prestonfield was disjoined from the parish of St.
Cuthhert. In 1834, a district more than a mile in
length, and nearly half-a-mile in its greatest breadth,
was disjoined from Duddingston, and erected into the
quuad sacra parish of Portobello. Parochial school-
master's salary £34, with about £12 fees. There
are 10 non-parochial schools attended by about 300
scholars.
DUFF HOUSE, a seat of the Earl of Fife, in the
immediate neighbourhood of Banff, surrounded by a
noble park, said to be 14 miles in circumference. It
is a large quadrangular edifice, of massive proportions,
decorated with Corinthian pillars in front, and a
handsome balustrade on the top, terminated at each
corner by a square turret. Externally it is sprinkled
over with vases and statues ; internally — to borrow
a new-coined expression from a late lively tourist — it
is perfectly Louvrized ivith pictures, — chiefly por-
traits. There are the two mistresses of Louis XIV.,
Madame de Montaspar, and the Duchess de Valliere,
with the grand monarch himself; also Lady Castle-
main, and Lady Carlisle, Jane Shore, and Nell Gwyn,
with some others equally respectable, and forming
* At tile east end of Wester Duddingston, and nearly opposite
Lord Abercorn's gate, stood a memorable ttiorn-tiee, known as
Queen Mary's tree, perhaps one of the oldest thorn-trees in
.Scotland, and of the greatest dimensions, being about (J feet in
circumference. It formerly stood within the park, but on widen
ing the carriage-road, it was brought outside, and then several
fissures appeared in the trunk, through which the elements of
air and water were fast consuming the venerable tree. The
road-trustees had these fissures filled up With stone and lime,
and had it otherwise protected, but the violence of the gale on
the 25th of May, 1840, pulled it up by the roots, laying it along
a shattered and withered trunk. A well-known and justly re-
puted artist, who resides io the neighbourhood, has ascertained
that the Duddingston thorn existed so far back as tile reign of
Alexander the Fierce (1107), when it was one of the landmarks
of the property on which it grew. It is mentioned in the title-
deeds of tile Abercorn property, and hence the desire on the
part of his lordship's doers to preserve a precise knowledge of
the spot on which it stood. The principal part of the wood was
removed to a wood-yard in the neighbourhood, fur the purpose
of being made up into various fancy articles, furniture, rustic
chairs, «c.
DUF
340
DUF
" a pretty set " in every sense of that equivocal term ;
also Queen Elizabeth and her beautiful victim Queen
Mary, and the youthful and accomplished Lady Jane
Grey; the Duchess of Richmond by Vandyke; Mrs.
Abingdon by Sir Joshua Reynolds; the late Duchess
of Gordon, "looking: like majesty personified;" Sir
Francis Knollys by Sir Godfrey Kneller; the Admir-
able Crichton ; the Chevalier St. George when a
boy ; Colonel Gardiner ; and a whole host beside
of beauties, warriors, statesmen, nobles, and au-
thors This splendid mansion is placed near the
middle of an extensive plain, spreading on one side
to the edge of the Doveron, which here fills its chan-
nel without cutting, and but rarely overflowing, its
banks. The wall of the park, upon its north-east
side, sweeps along the town of Banff; and the great
gate, at the distance of about half-a-mile from the
house, opens into the street. From the windows of
two sides, the house commands an approach from
another quarter, where the river quits the park, at
the distance of half-a-mile from the house. This
approach opens straight along a magnificent bridge of
seven arches, upon the highway to Aberdeen ; the
road into the town making an easy sweep to the
other hand, and passing by the gate which leads from
the end .of the bridge to the house. The town of
Banff, with the shipping in its port, and a wide
prospect of the ocean, form the verge of the land-
scape on the one side ; upon the other are the wind-
ing river, the broad extended green vale, diversified
by a variety of trees and shrubs in serpentine stripes,
or grouped together in spreading groves ; while the
distant acclivities, on either side, are enriched to a
great extent by cultivated fields and sheltering plan-
tations. Where the river enters the park on the
south side, it is contracted to the breadth of a brook
between hanging rocks, over which is thrown a pri-
vate bridge of one stately and elegantly formed arch,
having in one of the abutments a chamber which
commands a striking and romantic view to either
hand. A large enclosure, stocked with a numerous
herd of fallow-deer, is contained in a recess of the
park. On that quarter of the park which divides it
from the town of Banff, there is a considerable ex-
tent of garden, enclosed by a wall, well-covered
with fruit-trees, and a long range of hot-houses."
DUFFUS, a parish in Morayshire; bounded on
the north by the Moray frith ; on the east by Drainy
and Spynie parishes ; on the south by Alves parish ;
and on the west by the Moray frith. It extends 5
miles in length from east to west along the south
coast of the frith, and averages 3 in breadth. Its
form is nearly that of a parallelogram. Except where
* In the age, it is supposed, of Alexander III., a convent of
Carmelite friars had obtained possession of the heautiful and
fertile vale in which Duff-house is now placed. A giant hy
Hubert Bruce, dated at Scone, August 1st, 1324, confirms this
possession of nearly 500 acres, for procuring bread, wine, and
wax, for the exercises of divine worship. The same charter
bestows a " chapel of the Virgin Mary near the town of Banff.'*
the situation, it is believed, of the former church — where they
had also several cells — " with the benefice thereto appertaining,
for building a chapel and the other houses of their order.'' The
ruins of this establishment have beeu entirely removed. In
forming the modern arrangement of the ground sahout Duff-
house, a very large urn of stone, on a suitable pedestal, deco.
rates a hillock in the park, and preserves all the bones which
were turned up in the cemetery of these monks. The situation
also of their chapel is now occupied by the vaulted sepulchre of
the family of File, on a green mount overhanging the meadow
upon the bank of the river. A plain tmdecorated fabric rises
over the vault, which contains the monuments of the ancestors
of the family; and considerable ingenuity has beeu exerted,
and proportional cost expended, in providing for its long dura-
tion. The roof — into which, on this account, no timber has
been admitted — is not lofty, and forms outwardly two sides of
a prism. It is framed into an arch of cut stone, so closely
jointed hy the accurate smoothing of the chisel, as to ward off
the pelting of the heaviest storm from another solid circular
arch underneath, which is raised over the walls of the dome,
and forms the ceiling of this simple though costly sepulchre.
its tameness is varied by plantations, and relieved by
the hill of Rose-isle, a small eminence in the middle
of the parish, and by an artificial mount on which
the ruins of Duffus castle stand, the country is a
continued plain, everywhere arable. Along the
coast extends a level tract of land, about J mile in
breadth, which was at one time richly cultivated, but
for many years it was covered with sand from the
western shore. The sand at length ceased to be
blown thither, and the land has been almost all re-
stored to its former condition. The soil in the east-
ern quarter of the parish is a deep rich clay, capable
of producing any sort of crop. It resembles the
carse of Gowrie. The western consists of a rich
black earth, mixed here and there with sand, but in
general so excellent that the crops for quality and
increase cannot be surpassed in Scotland. The plain
of Duffus, together with the adjoining land, has been
called, perhaps more from richness than from situa-
tion, ' The Heart of Morayshire.' The mildness and
geniality of the climate is well-known ; but in so
northern a latitude is very surprising. There is little
rain; and as there may be said to be no hills, neither
are there rivulets or rivers in the parish. The loch
of Spynie, which, when full, extended into it for
upwards of a mile, has been drained out of the
bounds of this parish altogether ; and though the
benefits anticipated from this expensive work [see
Drainy] have not in general been realized, yet, so
far as Duffus is concerned, the project has been suc-
cessful Duffus castle stood on the north-west shore
of this lake. A deep moat surrounded it with a
parapet- wall and drawbridge; and from the low-lying
marshy state of the ground and the vicinity of Loch
Spynie, it must have been almost encompassed with
water. This castle must have been of great anti-
quity. The walls are formed of rude workmanship,
being composed of rough stones run together with
lime, the whole forming a mass 5 feet thick. The
ruin, as it now appears, surrounded with its clumps
of aged trees, and standing in the midst of a pleasant
plain, presents, at every point of view, a picturesque
and interesting landscape. In the distance from the
castle is the palace of Spynie, now also dilapidated.
Formerly the walls of both these places must even
have been washed by the waters of the loch ; but
now, since these have been drained away, corn-fields
and green pastures intervene. The old castle is
thought to have formed a place of strength for the
protection of the palace. One of its earUest pos-
sessors, and perhaps its founder, was Freskinus de
Moravia, whose family became conspicuous in Mo-
ray in the reign of David I. It is not certain when
this castle was dilapidated. — The coast of Duffus at
the eastern end is rather bold, rocky, and cavernous.
There are freestone quarries on the coast; while, in-
land, there is limestone which is now burnt for man
ure, &c. At the western end, the land is only ele-
vated about 4 feet above sea-level. At this extremity
a small but rather conspicuous promontory runs into
the sea, forming the north-western extremity of
Brough-head bay. Here stands the thriving sea-port
and fishing-village of Brough-head: which sect-
f Notwithstanding the general opinion there given as to the
ancient fortifications at Brough-head, it is observed by Mr.
Rhind, in his elegant and illustrated ' Sketches of the Past and
Present State of Moray,' published in 1839, that " it does not
appear at all probable that the Romans ever had any permanent
footing in Moray. Severns, it is true, penetrated into some
parts of the north ; but alter the loss of a great part of his
melt from cold, fatigue, and famine, he was soon compelled to
retreat. Agricola sailed routid the island on a voyage of dis-
covery ; hut certainly did not stop at any one place a euthcient
time to build a fort, or construct a well. It was from this voy-
age that Ptolemy the geographer drew his materials for bis rude
map of the country. The Ptornton of Ptolemy appears to cor-
respond to Burgh-head, at that time probably nothing more thau
DUI
341
DUL
Near a place called Kaim, at this end of the parish,
stood an obelisk, conjectured to have been that
erected near the village of Camus, in commemora-
tion of the victory obtained by Malcolm in Moray,
over the Danes, under their memorable leader Camus.
At the picturesque village of Dufius there is a
square, in the centre of which the church is placed.
It is surrounded by four streets regularly paved, the
workmanship, it is said, of Oliver Cromwell's sol-
diers. The villagers were noted for their devotion
to the house of Stuart. Port-Cumming and Hope-
man, where there is a harbour, are the other principal
villages in the parish. Population, in 1801, 1,339-
1,623; in 1831, 2,308. Houses 480. Assessed pro-
perty, in 1815, £5,611.. — This parish is in the synod
of Moray, and presbytery of Elgin. Patron, Sir
Archibald Dunbar, Bart. Stipend £232 8s. lOd. ;
glebe .£18. Unappropriated tenuis £245 15s. lid.
In 1823 a portion of the parish, including the three
villages, — Brough-head, Cummingstoun, and Hope-
man, — was attached to the chapel-of-ease at Brough-
head by authority of the presbytery ; and in 1833,
the country district, called Rose-isle, was also added.
The financial affairs of the chapel-congregation are
under the control of certain managers and a commit-
tee of presbytery. Chapel built in 1832; cost £300.
— There is a United Secession congregation at
Brough-head. Chapel built in 1821 ; cost £367 9s.
Hid At Kaim there is a small Episcopalian chapel.
Schoolmaster's salary £36 per annum ; fees, &c. £15,
besides a portion of the Dick bequest. There are
V private schools.
DUILLISH, a place on the cattle-road from Caith-
ness and Strathnaver. in the parish of Kildonan,
Sutherlandshire. A fair is held here on the 14th of
August, and another on the 12th of September, both
in connexion with the Kyle and the Falkirk markets.
DUIRNISH, or Durinish, a parish in Inverness-
shire, in the isle of Skye ; about 19 miles long, and
15 broad; containing from 50,000 to 55,000 Scottish
acres. The extent of sea-coast is about 80 miles.
The ground about the lochs, or arms of the sea —
which run far into the country — descends in some
places with a quick, and in others with an easy slope
towards the shore. The promontories or headlands
are usually rocks of immense height, with a great
depth of water near them. The moors are, in most
places, deep and wet ; the soil is partly a light black
loam, and partly of a reddish gravelly appearance ;
and, though mostly thin and stony, it is on the whole
fertile and productive. The most remarkable moun-
tains are the two Hallivails. The ruins of several
Danish forts are yet traceable in this district. Some
indications of coal have been discovered. In the
churchyard, according to Boswell, is a pyramid of
freestone, about 30 feet high, with a pompous in-
scription to the memory of Thomas, Lord Lovat,
by his son, Lord Simon, who suffered on Tower-
hill. Population, in 1801, 3,327; in 1831, 4,765.
Houses 790 This parish is in the presbytery of
Skye, and synod of Glenelg. Patron, M'Leod of
M'Leod. Stipend £158 6s. 7d. ; glebe £22 10s.
a headland. The Varar is the river Beauty a Strathfarar being
^t ill the Gaelic name for the valley west of the Aird. Varris
may have been Forres, — Tnesis the Spey. Nnt only from these
circumstances, but also from the simple and rude construction
of the well itself, the probability is, that tile Picts were the
founders of the fort and the artificers of the well. Nor on this
;u not is it the less interesting as a relic of ancient art. We
have abundant examples of the Roman art in other situations ;
but very few specimens, indeed, of the ingenuity of the Scan-
dinavians. That the Picts, in times subsequent to the Roman
visit to Scotland, held this stronghold of Burgh. head, there can
be no doubt. The very name, and the traditions of battles
which they fought in the vicinity, indicate this. In cleaning
out the well, a number of Spanish coins were found amongst the
rubbish, and a slab with a bull rudely carved on it. Perhaps
the Buccaneers may have paid the place a visit in more modern
times."
Church built in 1823-4 ; sittings 550. This parish
may be considered as divided into three districts :—
1st, Glendale, extending westwards from Skinnie-
den, near the head of Dunvegan loch. Population,
in 1831, 1,538. There is a preaching-station here.
— 2d, Kilmuir, being the district in which the parish-
church is situated, including the country between
Dunvegan loch and Loch Bay. extending southward.
Population, in 1831, 1,489 3d, Arnizort, extend-
ing to the eastward of Kilmuir, and to the boundaries
of the parishes of Halen, Snizort, and Bracadale.
Population, in 1831, 929. There is a preaching-
station here, and an itinerating Gaelic school .
Schoolmaster's salary £30, with £5 fees. There
were 5 nonparochial schools in 1834.
DULL, an extensive parish in Perthshire. It is
about 20 miles in length from north to south, and
12 miles in breadth. It is bounded on the north
by the parish of Blair- Athole ; on the south by
the parish of Kenmore, an isolated portion of that
of Fortingall, and the parishes of Weem, Logierait,
and Little Dunkeld; on the east by the parishes
of Moulin and Logierait; and on the west by the
parishes of Fortingall and Kenmore. The parish
of Dull is divided into five districts ; — the district
of Appin, in which the parish-church stands; the
district of Grandtully, a peninsulated portion in
the south-east; the district of Amulrie, which is
situated south from the rest of the parish, and is
completely isolated from it, being bounded on the
north by Weem and Logierait, on the west by Logie-
rait, part, of Fortingall, Kenmore, and Comrie, on
the south by Monzie, and on the east by Little Dun-
keld and Weem ; the district of Foss in the north-
western part of the parish ; and the district of Fin-
castle in the north-eastern : See articles Grand-
tully, Amulrie, Foss, and Tennandry. The
boundaries, however, of the parish of Dull quoad
sacra and quoad civilia are not the same ; the district
of Amulrie is annexed quoad sacra to the mission of
Amulrie ; the district of Grandtully is annexed to
the mission of Grandtully ; the district of Fincastle
has now been annexed to the new parish of Tennan-
dry ; and the district of Foss to the government
church of Foss. A large portion of this parish is
wild and mountainous. The soil is very various.
" The division of Appin," says the Old Statistical
Account, "is flat; part of the soil is thick, but bv
much the greater part is thin and gravelly. It seems
that the river Tay had occasionally altered its bed,
and consequently carried away the earth and left
much sand and gravel. There is a great deal of hill,
but the greater part of the parish is a corn coun .
try. In the higher tracts the arable ground is ex ■
ceedingly good, and yields great crops, although they
are seldom fertile, being very late in ripening. In
the district of Appin the grain is of an excellent
quality ; and, in general, the harvest is as early as
it is in Mid-Lothian." In 1792 there were 1,500
horses, 5,000 cows, and 24,000 sheep, in this parish
The Tay and the Tummel are the only considerable
rivers in the parish, but it is intersected by numerous
smaller streams. There are not less than 15 lakes,
most of which afford excellent fishing. Population,
in 1801, 4,055; in 1831,4,590. Houses 843. The
population is principally scattered over the parish ;
and only in a few instances collected into small vil-
lages. Fincastle and the places adjacent to it have
a population of 221. The lands of Clunie and Der-
culich are inhabited by 302 persons. The village of
Aberfeldie and its neighbourhood have a population
of 800, and Croftmoraig and Tullychuil of 70. As-
sessed property, in 1815, £3,980. The valued rent
is £4,898 3s. Scots The parish of Dull is in the
presbytery of Weem, and synod of Stirling and Perth.
DUL
342
DUM
It is said to have been at some former period united
to the parish of Pitcairn or Grandtully. Patron the
Crown. Stipend £257 18s. lOd. Unappropriated
tends £70 18s. The minister, besides a manse
and glebe, has also a privilege of casting peats, of
feal and divot, and of foggage for 12 soums of
cattle on the hill. The church — the period of
the erection of which is not known, — was re-
paired about 18 years ago. Sittings 650 An
Independent congregation has been established for
nearly 43 years at Aberfeldie. The chapel and a
house for the minister were built in 1817 at an ex-
pense of £650. Sittings 500. Stipend £40 from
the congregation, and £10 from the general funds of
the Congregational Union of Scotland : See Aber-
feldie. Salary of the parish-schoolmaster £34 4s.
4id., with £14 school-fees and £7 of other emolu-
ments. The instruction given consists of English
and Gaelic reading, writing, and arithmetic; with
Latin and Greek occasionally. Average attendance
75. There are 10 private schools in the parish, the
average attendance at which is 480. Three of the
latter schools are supported by charitable societies.
DULNAN (The), a river on the east side of In-
verness-shire, rising in the heights of Badenoch, and
joining the Spey below Tullochgorum, nearly oppo-
site Abernethy church.
DULSIE BRIDGE, a romantic bridge spanning
a narrow chasm through which the Findhorn rushes,
in an arch of 46 feet, with a smaller subsidiary one,
at a point of the river 12 miles from Freeburn, and 2
from Furness inn. It is on the line of the old Mili-
tary road from Fort-George, through Strathspey and
Braemar. See Ardclach.
DUMBARNIE. See Dunbarnle.
DUMBARTON, a parish and royal burgh in Dum-
bartonshire; bounded on the north by the parishes
of Bonhill and Kilmaronock in Dumbartonshire, and
those of Drymen and Killearn in Stirlingshire ; on
the south by the parish of West Kilpatrick and the
frith of Clyde ; on the west by the Leven, which
separates it from the parish of Cardross, and by the
parish of Bonhill ; and on the east by the parish of
West Kilpatrick and the shire of Stirling. The
southern part of the parish near the Clyde is — with
the exception of the singular rock on which the castle
stands — nearly a dead level ; but as we recede from
the coast it becomes quickly more hilly, and towards
the northern extremity it is almost entirely composed
of hill and moor, with scarcely any inhabitants. It
is about 7| miles in length, and about 3^ in breadth ;
and its superficial extent, according to a survey made
in 1818, is 6,522 Scots, or 8,155 English acres. The
soil near the banks of the Clyde is principally a rich
black loam of great fertility ; but the northern, and
by much the larger part of the parish, is almost en-
tirely moorland and incapable of cultivation. Lime-
stone is found at Murroch glen, between 2 and 3
miles to the north-east of the town of Dumbarton ;
and a red sandstone on the northern slope of Dum-
barton moor. There are several printfields and
bleachfields on the banks of the Leven, and in the
town of Dumbarton : which see. Glass-making,
tanning, and ship-building are carried on to some ex-
tent The parish of Dumbarton is in the presbytery
of Dumbarton, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. It is
in the patronage of the town-council of Dumbarton.
Stipend £233 6s. 2d., with 6 stone of salmon.
Church built in 1810; sittings 1,265 — There is a
United Secession church, built in 1826 ; sittings 489.
Stipend £130 A handsome Roman Catholic chapel
was erected in 1830, at an expense of £1,400; sit-
tings 218. Stipend £90 There is also a small
Baptist congregation in the town. — The parochial
school has two teachers, each of whom has a salary
of £40. Number of scholars, in 1834, 198. Popula-
tion, in 1801, 2,541 ; in 1831, 3,623.
DUMBARTON,* a royal burgh and the capital
of Dumbartonshire, is situated on a low flat piece of
ground on the coast of the frith of Clyde, at the mouth
of the small river Leven ; 15 miles north-west of Glas-
gow, and 57 west of Edinburgh ; in N. lat. 55° 57',
and W. long. 4° 35'. The original name of Dumbar-
ton appears to have been Alcluid or Alcluyth, that is,
'the Rock upon the Clyde;' and under this appella-
tion it was in the time of the Venerable Bede the
capital of the kingdom of Strathclyde. Before this
time, however, the site was occupied as a Roman
naval station, under the name of Theodosia ; and it
appears not improbable that the rock was occupied
by a Roman fort, and that the wall of Antoninus
terminated at this point. Dumbarton was at a much
later period the chief town of the Earldom of Len-
nox. About the beginning of the 13th century, it was
resigned by Earl Maldwyn into the hands of Alex-
! ander II., who, in 1222, erected it into a free royal
bui'gh with extensive privileges. Additional charters
were granted by succeeding monarchs, all of which
were confirmed by James VI., in 1609, and ratified
by parliament in 1612. This charter grants or con-
firms to the burgh considerable property in land and
extensive fishings in the Leven and Clyde. It gives
the town right to a free port, in the same manner as
Edinburgh has in Leith ; and conveys a right to levy
customs and dues on all ships navigating the Clyde
between the mouth of the Kelvin water, 3 miles
below Glasgow, and the head of Loch Long. The
rights and privileges of the burgh were ratified by
subsequent acts of parliament, in 1641 and 1661.
The right granted by the charter of King James to
levy customs and duties in the Clyde appears to have
been of the most valuable kind. According to a
statement published by a committee of the burgesses of
Dumbarton, in 1829, although the space limited ex-
cluded Glasgow, it comprehended Greenock, and the
ground in the vicinity of Greenock on which the
town and harbour of' Port-Glasgow were subse-
quently formed. The valuable privilege thus con-
ferred on Dumbarton by this charter was, that every
vessel, whether foreign or belonging to native born
subjects, coming within these limits, was bound to
go to, pay duties at, and take clearances from Dum-
barton ; and that no merchants could carry their
effects to any other harbour — either then existing or
to be afterwards made within these limits — in defraud
or evasion of the lucrative right thus vested in the
bui'gh of Dumbarton. Besides, the clause by which
all vessels were bound to break bulk and make mar-
ket with free burgesses, gave rise to a claim of the
greatest value to Dumbarton. This was styled the
" offers dues," and was levied without opposition
from all foreign vessels coming into Clyde. It is
described in a contract entered into between Glas-
gow and Dumbarton, in 1700, " as obliging strangers
to make the first offer of the goods and merchandize
imported by them into the Clyde, to the burghs of
Glasgow and Dumbarton, at such expense and rate
as the strangers, offerers, shall not have power or
liberty to undersell the same to others." These ex-
tensive privileges, which were respectively claimed
by Dumbarton and Glasgow; produced perpetual
* The origin of the name is involved in some uncertainty,
partly, perhaps, in consequence of the various etymologies
which it has assumed. Duubarton, according to Chalmers,
signifies 'tile town of the Castle' on the summit; but it so
happens that the more common orthography of the name at an
early period seems to have been Duiibriton, which would sig-
nify ' the fort or castlo of the Britons.' Both names are cor-
rectly descriptive, the one of the physical features, the oilier of
the historical character of the place. In writing Dumbarton,
we have giveu way to the prevailing though probably incorrect
orthography.
DUMBARTON.
343
disputes between the two burghs during the 17th
century. These were finally terminated in 1700 by
a contract, by which the town-council of Dum-
barton sold and disposed to the town-council and
community of Glasgow, the dues payable to the
burgh of Dumbarton by all ships coining into the
Clyde, of which the freemen of Dumbarton were not
owners; and also their share of the "offers dues."
For these rights the town of Glasgow paid to Dum-
barton the sum of 4,500 merks, (about £260 ster-
ling,) and the burghs mutually agreed that the ves-
sels belonging to the burgesses, inhabitants of Glas-
gow and Port-Glasgow, should not pay duties in
the harbour of Dumbarton; and, ou the other hand,
the vessels of Dumbarton burgesses should be ex-
empted from duties in the harbours of Glasgow and
Port-Glasgow. This contract was ratified by the
convention of burghs and the Scottish parliament,
in 1701.* Though the castle of Dumbarton — to
which we shall immediately allude — has borne its
share in the vicissitudes of the Scottish story, we do
not find that the town itself occupies any consider-
able place in history. It has undoubtedly existed
from a very remote period ; but its inconsiderable
size and importance, and its position being some-
what removed from the castle-rock, have probably
saved it in a great, measure from those disasters of
siege and stratagem and arms, of which its near
neighbour has often borne the brunt. It was, how-
ever, several times burnt during the sieges which
the castle underwent. In the time of James IV.
and James V., Dumbarton was made a naval station;
and the former monarch made several of his expedi-
tions from this port to Tarbert in Kintyre, to the
Western islands, and elsewhere. From Dumbarton
also, without doubt, the small Scottish navy sailed —
under the wretched conduct of the Earl of Arran —
against England, shortly before the battle of Flodden.
The town of Dumbarton is built principally on a
sort of peninsula, or promontory, on the east bank
of the river Leven, a little above the point where
the latter joins the Clyde. The principal street,
called Main-street, forms a kind of semicircle, nearly
concentric with the course of the river, and situated
at a short distance from the water edge. This street
is intersected by the Cross-vennel and various other
smaller streets. A suburb, called Renton, is situated
on the west side of the river, being united with the
town by a good stone bridge of five arches, built
about the middle of last century. The church and
public offices are situated in the outer part of the
town, near the suburb of Bridgend, toward the Glas-
gow road. The principal manufacture in Dumbarton
is that of glass, which, however, has considerably fallen
off within the last few years, though it is understood
to be again reviving. This manufacture commenced
about 1776, and the Old Statistical Account men-
tions that, in 1792, it employed 130 hands, and that
the manufacturers paid £3,800 of duties. At a later
period the business of the company was greatly ex-
tended. Not less than 300 people were employed at it,
* The navigation of tlie Clyde having since, by various acts
nf parliament, been put under the management of trustees, ttie
righls thus transferred to Glasgow are now vested iu this par-
liamentary trust, 'these trustees made an attempt, in JS25, to
abrogate the right of exemption from river-dues belonging to
Dumbarton — an exemption which had now become of consider-
able value, owing to the high rates levied by the trustees, and
the improvement iu the navigation of the river. They were,
however, defeated in parliament, and the rights of Dumbarton
formally recognised, under a slight modification intended mtreiy
to guard against frauds. A similar attempt was again made iu
ISoO, but a committee of appeal threw the bill out, as iu breach
of a solemn bargain between the parties. The trustees proposed
in committee to give a sum of £10,000 to Dumbarton as the
price of its exemption, besides saving the rights, for their own
lives of persons then burgesses of Dumbarton. There s^eems
to be no doubt, however, that the exemption is worth a con-
siderably larger sum.
] and upwards of 1 6,000 tons of coal were consumed an.
nually. The New Statistical Account states that, in
1818, the duties paid to government amounted to the
enormous sum of £119,000 a-year. The other
branches of industry carried on in the town are rope-
making, tanning, and ship-building: the last, in par-
ticular, is carried on to a very considerable extent. The
fishings on the Leven and Clyde produce a revenue of
about £385 a-year to the town. The trade of Dum-
barton, however, is very inconsiderable. The ship-
ping belonging to the port does not exceed 40 vessels
with about 1,212 tons burden ; and the harbour-dues
have produced, on an average of the last five years,
only about £70 per annum. By act 3° and 4° Wil-
liam IV., the number of the council is fixed at 15,
and consists of a provost, 2 bailies, a treasurer, and
1 1 councillors. The magistrates exercise the usual
civil and criminal jurisdiction belonging to royal
burghs. The town-clerk acts as their assessor.
Two burgh-courts are held weekly. The magis-
trates take cognizance of certain trifling cases fami-
liarly known in the burgh by the name of " Cause-
way complaints." There is also a dean-of-guild
court, which exercises the usual jurisdiction ot
such courts, such as lining marches, judging of the
sufficiency of buildings, and checking weights and
measures. The magistrates and council appoint the
town-clerk, collector of town's revenues, collector
of assessed taxes, master of public works, gaoler,
town-officer, and town-drummer. The magistrates
alone appoint the burgh-fiscal. The old corporations
were six in number, — the guild y, the hammermen,
shoemakers, tailors, coopers, and weavers. There
is no distinct police-establishment in the town. It
is not watched. The cleansing and lighting of the
streets, and supplying water, are under the direction
of the magistrates. Before the passing of the Muni-
cipal reform act, the abuses arising from the mis-
management of the burgh-funds were very con-
siderable. The debt of the town amounted to
£19,108 10s. l^d. The total property of the burgh
was stated, in 1832, at £17,910; but this was sus-
pected to be an over-estimate, as, in 1819, it had
been valued at only £10,658. This property con-
sists principally of the town's muir, the waulk-mill
lands, the broad meadow, the Leven and Clyde fish-
ings, and the harbour. The moor consists of about
4,000 acres, upon which all the burgesses have the free
right of pasture. Its possession has been the source
ot a tedious litigation for about fifty years between
the town and some neighbouring proprietors. The
lawsuit was only terminated within the last few
months in favour of the burgh, and it is supposed
that the law-proceedings will cost about the entire
price of the land, or £10,000! Dumbarton formerly
joined with Glasgow, Renfrew, and Rutherglen in
sending a member to parliament. It now joins with
Kilmarnock, Port-Glasgow, Renfrew, and Ruther-
glen. The parliamentary constituency is 170.
The castle of. Dumbarton is situated to the south
of the town, from which it is separated by a bend of the
Leven, at the point of junction between that river
and the Clyde. The rock on which the old fortress
stands projects considerably into the channel of the
Clyde, and is a prominent as well as a picturesque
object in the beautiful scenery of that river. It
shoots up abruptly from a flat level, and stands com-
pletely isolated from any other elevations. Its form
is somewhat like that of a mitre, the rock dividing
about the middle, and forming two summits, on which
the batteries and other parts of the castle are erected.
The entrance to the castle is by a gate at the foot of
the rock, and fronting the south-east. It is defended
by a rampart, immediately within which the guard-
house and apartments for the officers are situated.
344
DUMBARTON.
A flight of stone steps conducts to the point at which
the rock is parted, where there is a well, together
with barracks and a battery. The other batteries are
situated on the two summits of the rock, and afford
an extensive and delightful prospect, — of which the
vale of the Leven, the immense form of Benlomond,
the hills of Arrochar, and the expanse of the Clyde,
are the most attractive objects. The geological
character of the rock is basaltic ; and it is remark-
able for possessing, in particular parts, a strong
magnetic property. Dumbarton rock— as we have
already mentioned — was, in all probability, occu-
pied as a stronghold in the time of the Romans,
and was, at all events, chosen for the site of a
fortress by the aboriginal inhabitants of Scotland,
shortly after those invaders had evacuated the
country. It is particularly mentioned by Bede,
at the beginning of the 8th century, as one of
the strongest fortifications possessed by the Bri-
tons. Hoveden refers to it as having been reduced
by famine by Egbert, King of Northumberland, in
756, but Chalmers is disposed to doubt the accuracy
of this statement. Its importance as a fortress has
all along been considered so great that it has — from
the time of Bede at least, down to the present
hour — been zealously retained by the Crown as one
of the royal castles. When Maldwyn obtained the
Earldom of Lennox from Alexander II., the castle
of Dumbarton, and a portion of the land in its
neighbourhood, was specially excepted from the
grant. Along with the other royal fortresses of
Scotland, it was delivered up to Edward I. dur-
ing the competition between Bruce and Baliol for
the Crown ; and was afterwards made over to Baliol
in 1292, when the dispute was settled in his favour.
In 1296, it again fell into the hands of the English,
and Alexander de Ledes was appointed governor of
the castle by Edward. From 1305 to 1309, it was
held for the same monarch by Sir John Menteith,
the betrayer of Wallace. After the fatal battle
of Halidon hill, in 1333, Sir Malcolm Fleming of
Cumbernauld secured Dumbarton castle for the King.
Towards the end of the same century it was held
first by Sir Robert Erskine, and afterwards by Sir
Robert Danielston. After the death of the latter,
in 1399, Walter Danielston, parson of Kincardine
O'Neil, forcibly took possession of it, and held it
till 1402, when he surrendered it to the Crown. In
1425, James Stewart, son of the Regent Albany,
assaulted and burnt the town of Dumbarton, and
murdered Sir John Stewart, the King's uncle, who
held the castle with 32 men. Dumbarton was be-
sieged in 1481 by the fleet of Edward IV., and was
bravely and successfully defended by Andrew Wood
of Largs. In 1489, the Earl of Lennox, keeper of
the castle, having engaged in an insurrection against
the government of James IV., Dumbarton was be-
sieged— though without success — by the Earl of Ar-
gyle. Shortly after, however, the king himself ap-
peared before the castle, and compelled the sons of
Lennox, who then held it, to surrender, after a
siege of six weeks. In 1514, the Earls of Lennox
and Glencairn, during a tempestuous night, broke
open the lower gate of the castle; and, having thus
obtained access, turned out the governor, Lord
Erskine. Lennox appears to have retained posses-
sion till 1516, when he was compelled to deliver it
up to Allan Stewart. Shortly after the battle of
Pinkie, Queen Mary took up her residence in the
castle of Dumbarton ; and, on leaving it, embarked
for France, at this place, in 1548. Queen Mary
again visited the castle, in 1563, when on a progress
into Argyle; and during the troubles which followed
on her dethronement, this fortress was held for her
by Lord Fleming, This lord appears to have kept
possession of it till May 1571, when it was taken
by stratagem, under the conduct of Captain Tho-
mas Crawford, who scaled the rock during the night,*
and made prisoners of the garrison, and of several
persons of consideration — among the rest Archbishop
Hamilton of St. Andrews — who had taken refuge
here. The governor, however, succeeded in making
his escape in a boat to Argyleshire. During the civil
wars of Charles the First's time, the castle changed
hands on several occasions, and continued through-
out the whole of that period to be regarded as an
object of great importance by the contending parties.
It is unnecessary to follow out the history of this
fortress during later times ; suffice it to mention
that, about the beginning of the 18th' century, the
* " This exploit has been graphically described by Mr. Tytler,
[' History of Scotland,' Vol. VII. p. 350 ] " The capture of
Dumbarton castle by the Regent," says Mr. T. " which occur-
red at this time, gave a severe shock to the fortunes of the
Queen's friends. This exploit, for its extraordinary gallantry
and success, deserves notice. The castle, as is well known, is
strongly situated on a precipitous rock, which rises abruptly
from the Clyde, at the confluence of the little river Leven with
this nobie estuary. It was commanded by Lord Fleming, who,
from the beginning of the war, iiad kept it for the Queen, and
its importance was great, not only from its strength, which
made many pronounce it impregnable, but because its situation
on the Clyde rendered it at all times accessible to foreign ships,
which brought supplies. Captain Crawford of Jordanhill, to
whom the attack was intrusted, had been long attached to the
house of Lennox. He was the same person whose evidence
was ao important regarding the death of Darnley, and who af-
terwards accused Letliington of participation in the murder,
since which time he appears to have followed the profession of
arms. In the enterprise he was assisted by Cunningham, com-
monly called the Laird of Drumwliassel, one of the bravest and
most skilful officers of his time, and he had been fortunate in
securing the assistance of a man named Robertson, who, having
once been warden in tiie castle, knew every step upon the rock
familiarly, and for a bribe consented to betray it. With this
man Crawford and his company marched from Glasgow after
sunset. He had sent before bun a few light horse, who pre-
vented intelligence by stopping all passengers, and arrived
about midnight at Dunibich ^DumbuckJ, within a mile of the
castle, where he was joined by Drumwliassel and Captain
Hume, with a hundred men. Here he explained to the soldiers
the hazardous service on which they were to be employed, pro-
vided them with ropes and scaling ladders, and advancing with
silence and celerity, reached the rock, the summit of which was
fortunately involved in a heavy fog, whilst the bottom was
clear. But, on the first attempt, all was likely to be lost. Tho
ladders lost their hold while the soldiers were upon them ; and
had the garrison been on the alert, the noise must inevitably
have betrayed them. They listened, however, and all was still;
again their ladders were fixed, and their steel hooks this time
catching firmly in the crevices, they gained a small juttjng-out
ledge, where an ash tree had struck its roots, which assisted
them, as they fixed their ropes to its branches, and thus speedi-
ly towed up both the ladders and the rest of their companions.
They were still, however, far from their object. They had
reached but the middle of the rock, day was breaking, and
when, for the second time, they placed their ladders, an extra-
ordinary impediment occurred. One of the soldiers in ascend-
ing was seized with a tit, in which he convulsively grasped the
steps so firmly, that no one could either pass him, or unloose
his hold. But Crawford's presence of mind suggested a ready
expedient; he tied him to the ladder, turned it, and easily
ascended with the rest of his men. They were now at the
bottom of the wall, where the footing was narrow and precari-
ous, but once more fixing their ladders in the copestone, Alex-
ander Ramsay, Crawford's ensign, with two other soldiers, stole
up, and though instantly discovered on the summit by the sen-
tinel who gave the alarjo, leapt down and slew him, sustaining
the attack of three of the guard till he was joined by Crawford
and his soldiers. Their weight and struggles to surmount
it, now brought down the old wall and afforded an open breach,
through which they rushed in shouting, " a Darnley, a Darn-
ley!" Crawford's watchword, given evidently from affection to
his unfortunate master, the late king. The garrisou were
panic-struck, and did not attempt resistance, Fleming, the
governor, from long familiarity with the place, managed to
escape down the face of an almost perpendicular cleft or gully
in the rock, and passing through a postern which opened upon
the Clyde, threw himself into a fishing-boat, and passed over to
Argyleshire. In this exploit the assailants did not lose a man,
and of the garrison only four soldiers were slain. In the castle
were taken prisoners, Hamilton the Bishop of St. Andrews,
who was found with his mail shirt and steel cap on ; Verac, the
French ambassador, Fleming of Boghall,. and John Hall, an
English gentleman, who had fled to Scotland after' Dacre's re-
bellion. Lady Fleming, the wife of the governor, was also
taken, and treated by the Regent with great courtesy, per-
mitted to go free, and to carry off with her her plate and furni-
ture ; but Hamilton, the primate, was instantly brought to
trial for the murder of the King, and the late Regent, con-
demned, hanged, and quartered without delay."
DUMBARTONSHIRE.
345
offices of hereditary keeper and constable of the castle
having fallen into the hands of the Marquis of Mon-
trose, the government of Queen Anne insisted on
his resigning these offices into the hands of the
Crown, which he accordingly did, and the castle has
accordingly, ever since, remained a royal fortress,
and been occupied by a small garrison.
DUMBARTONSHIRE— or more properly Dun-
bartonshire— a small county in the west of Scot-
land ; forming what was anciently known as the
Lennox. It is bounded on the west by Loch Long
and Argyleshire ; on the north by Perthshire ; on the
east by Stirlingshire and Lanark ; and by the river
Clyde on the south. The length of the shire, from
Kelvin river on the south-east, to Aldernan rivulet
in Arrochar on the north, is about 36 miles ; its
breadth varies from 2 to 13 miles. Its general out-
line is that of a crescent ; the convex line being deter-
mined by the eastern coast of Loch Long, and the
northern coast of the frith of Clyde, from the junc-
tion of Loch Long, up to within a few miles of Glas-
gow. The greatest breadth of the shire is between
the junction of Loch Long with the frith, or the
south-west point of the peninsula of Roseneath, and
the centre of the broadest part of Loch Lomond.
These boundaries and admeasurements, however, are
exclusive of a detached portion of the shire, on the
south-east, consisting of the parishes of Cumber-
nauld and Kirkintilloch, which detached portion is
nearly 12 miles long, and from 2 to 4J broad. The
shire contains in whole, according to one admeasure-
ment, 147,300, and, according to another, about
167,040 English acres, of which about a third part is
under cultivation. About 20,000 acres are occupied
with lakes. Population, in 1801, 20,710; in 1831,
33,200. Houses, in 1831, 3,785. Assessed property
£71,587. Valued rent £35,382 7s. 8d. Scots. Sup-
posed rental, in 1820, £56,000.
For beautiful and varied seenery, this county
is scarcely surpassed in Scotland. It is, indeed,
mountainous and uneven, and much of it little suited
to agricultural purposes ; but it is, nevertheless, en-
riched with many fruitful valleys, and watered by
numerous delightful streams, among which the Le-
ven — so sweetly sung by Smollett — fed from the
depths of Loch Lomond, glides calmly along until it
falls into the Clyde at Dumbarton : see that article.
The other streams are the Falloch, the water of
Luss, the Finlass, and the Fruin, all flowing into
Loch Lomond, with numerous smaller rivulets. The
Endrick skirts the northern borders of Kilmaronock
parish ; and the Kelvin runs along the eastern boun-
( ary of East Kilpatrick. The three large lochs,
Loch Long, the Gairloch, and Loch Lomond,
are described under their respective heads. The
lofty mountain of Benvoirlich [see Arroquhar] is
in this shire. The climate has a considerable share
of moisture, which may be accounted for from its
western situation ; but it is in general mild and
healthy.* The most prevalent winds blow from the
* The following- is a register of rain-gauges kept at four
different places in this county in the year 1S33. The gauges
were all constructed ou Mr. Thorn of Rothesay's model : —
Keppoch. Camis-Esk Ardincaple. Bellretira.
January.... 0.4
February... 6.6
March 1.6
April 2.2
May 26
June 52
July 1.8
August 1.5
September. . 3.75
October 3.6
Kovember.. 4 6
December.. 9.3
43.15
0.50
7.
1.80
2.20
2.50
5.
2 50
1.50
4.55
4.
5.20
S.75
45.50
0.8O
6.67
1.51
3 10
30
5.56
2.60
1.65
5.15
435
5.88
11.
0.9
7.4
1 2
3.4
2.6
6.2
2.4
2.2
4.2
4.7
5.8
11 5
52.5
west and south-west, — if we except the months of
March, April, and May, at which period of the year
the cold east wind is a too frequent visitant. Be-
fore its influence the spring — a season in which con-
geniality would at all times be preferred — often
partakes more of the bitterness of winter than even
winter itself.
The soil and surface of Dumbartonshire may be
classified as follows : — Deep black loam, clay on a
subsoil of till ; gravel or gravelly loam ; green hill-
pasture ; mountain, moor, and bog. In the parishes
of Kirkintilloch and Cumbernauld, till soil pre-
dominates. A very large portion of the shire is
comprehended in Loch Lomond, and the many islands
interspersed on its expansive and varied surface.
Throughout the whole of Dumbartonshire, there are
very few extensive estates — a circumstance in a great
measure favourable to their improvement, as a sti-
mulus is thus given here to proprietors themselves to
engage with more spirit in advancing the general in-
terests of agriculture. A great deal has been done
of late years, and is still doing, to enhance the value
of land. Draining — one of the most important items
of modern improvement — has been practised success-
fully and to much advantage, and attention has also
been given to the proper management of fences. For
many years the operation of ploughing was per-
formed— according to ancient Highland usage — with
four horses abreast ; the driver marching in front of
his teem, with a long stick in his hand, attached
to "which were the halters of each horse. This
method, which required the close attendance of two
persons, was superseded in time by the use of three
horses ; but since the introduction of the Lanark-
shire breed of horses, the modern system of plough-
ing by two horses has been in almost universal use.
Lime is the manure in most general use, and large
quantities of it are imported from the north of Ire-
land and the island of Arran, independently of what
is manufactured in the county. There is also a
considerable mart for common manure supplied from
Glasgow, Greenock, and other adjacent towns. Sea-
weed, gathered on the southern and western coast,
is convertible into the same commodity, but this de-
scription of manure is here accounted very inferior.
Marl can be obtained, though not in great quanti-
ties, and it is scarcely ever made use of.
Oats are raised in greater quantities than any
other species of grain, and also a considerable
quantity of wheat, which has, of late years, been
much increased ; barley has, however, decreased in
proportion. Pease are little sown; but the cul-
ture of beans is becoming more general, and in stiff
clayey soils they are found to be an excellent pre-
parative for wheat. Turnips, as in Renfrewshire,
are not raised to any extent. Potatoes are cultivated
in great quantities ; their quality is excellent, and in
Glasgow and the surrounding towns there is always
a ready market for them. In the detached parishes
of Kirkintilloch and Cumbernauld, a good deal of
flax is grown. Copsewood is at once highly orna-
mental, and a considerable branch of revenue here ; and
no small degree of care is taken in its management.
The land on which it is produced is unfit either for
cultivation or pasture ; the gain derivable from the
wood, therefore, may be considered, after the deduc-
tion of labour, as almost altogether gratuitous ; yet
from pretty accurate calculation, it was, in 1821, little
short of that produced from the whole arable and
pasture land of the county. Since the breeding of
sheep became more common, it has been found ne-
cessary to resort to the practice of muir-burning, so
A rain-gauge, on the same model, at Garnethill, Glasgow, gave
32.00, during the same year, and another at Edgecombe cot-
tage, in Devonshire, 35.27
DUM
346
DUM
that the upland division of the shire — which could
once boast of little else than heath and moor — is now
covered with verdure, and has, on the whole, a
widely different, though much more agreeable aspect
from what it presented at the close of last century.
The native horses are very inferior, and, with very
few exceptions, are scarcely ever used in field-labour.
The farmers generally supply themselves at the Lan-
arkshire markets, with the celebrated breed of that
county. Most of the black cattle with which the
farms are stocked are brought from the West High-
lands ; very few are bred in the county. A number
of the principal farmers have furnished themselves
with milk-cows from Ayrshire, and the concerns of
the dairy are daily rising in importance. The sheep
fed in the county yield annually from £5,000 to
.£0,000. The breed is said to have been first intro-
duced from Moffat-dale, and the higher districts of
Dumfries-shire and Lanarkshire. Their wool is
coarse, but their natural hardiness well-qualifies them
for enduring exposure. Swine are kept by almost
every farmer, mostly for domestic use. On Inchmur-
rin and Inchlonaig, two islands of Loch Lomond, there
are extensive herds of fallow-deer. Red deer — once
plenteous in the mountainous districts of the county
■ — have long since been extirpated, and but very few
roes remain among the rugged and woody spots on
the banks of Loch Lomond and Loch Long. In
consequence of the practice of burning the heath,
already alluded to, the hum of the bee is seldom
heard in this district now; and honey — once pro-
duced in considerable quantities — is now scarcely to
be obtained in the moory districts.
Dumbartonshire now possesses excellent means of
land-communication. Of this, in former times, there
was a great deficiency. Previous to the year 1790,
the only turnpike road was that from Dumbarton to
Glasgow, while the country roads were also few, and
of the very worst description. The improvements
m roads and bridges which has taken place since
the above date has been almost incalculable, and
has proved of the utmost advantage to the agricul-
ture and local commerce of the shire. From the
number of rivers and small streams, it was found
essential to have proper bridges constructed. The
largest of those bridges was built, at the expense of
Government, across the Leven, at Dumbarton, about
70 years ago, and cost .£2,500. It is upwards of
300 feet in length, and consists of 5 arches, the
largest of which is 62 feet in span. The Forth and
Clyde canal was begun in 17G8, and finished in 1790;
and it has, as a water-communication, been of the
greatest service to the commercial and manufactur-
ing interests of Dumbartonshire. By the improve-
ments of the Clyde, about 600 acres of rich land
have been added to this county, in consequence of
the space formed between the jetties, to confine the
current of the river, having been gradually filled up
with mud and silt, the surface of which has become
covered with a sward of fine pasture grass, a great
portion of which has recently been cultivated. The
vicinity of Glasgow has created a considerable extent
of manufacturing industry in this county. The banks
of the Leven, in particular, are covered with nu-
merous bleachfields, printfields, and cotton-works,
giving employment to thousands. Among the vari-
ous manufactures of the county, the printing of cot-
tons is still the most important. Next to this is cot-
ton-spinning. There are several paper-mills, a large
iron-work, two or three chemical works, two or
three distilleries, and an extensive glass-work. The
salmon-fisheries are at present worth about £800 per
annum. The herring-fishery produces about £4,000.
Li the western division of the county are extensive
coal-pits.
The county is ecclesiastically divided into 12 par-
ishes : and contains one royal burgh, four burghs-of-
barony, and four villages. The number of parochial
schools, in 1834, was 13, attended by 895 scholars;
of non-parochial schools, 54, attended by 2,994 scho-
lars. Justice-of-peace courts are held at Drumfork
and at the Baths inn, both near Helensburgh ; at Old
and New Kilpatrick ; at Dumbarton, Kirkintilloch,
and Cumbernauld. Sheriff circuit-courts are held at
Kirkintilloch and at Helensburgh ; the general small
debt court is held at Dumbarton, the county-town.
The county sends one representative to parliament.
Parliamentary constituency, in 1839, 1,218.
The weights of this county, previous to the equal-
ization act, were : Avoirdupois for English goods and
groceries ; Dutch for meal ; and Tron of 23 ounces
avoirdupois, for butter, cheese, butcher-meat, fish,
and home flax. The Dumbarton pint is 2'9 cubic
inches less than the standard pint. For wheat, pease,
and beans, the firlot, contained 2562'75 cubic inches,
and is 1 firlot, 3 pints, 1 chopin, 3J cubic inches
of the old standard-measure. For oats, barley, and
malt, the firlot contained 3,417 cubic inches, which
is 1 firlot, 2 pints, 4'66S cubic inches standard-mea-
sure, or 6'597 per cent, above the Linlithgow measure.
The water-peck of potatoes is nearly 42 lbs. The
chalder of lime is 64 bushels ; of lime-shells, 32
bushels. The rood of land is 6 yards square. The
score of sheep sometimes 21 ; and the stone of wool
sometimes 17 lbs.
DUMFRIES,* a parish in the south of Nithsdale,
at the middle of the south-west border of Dumfries-
shire. Having the outline of a cone, with its apex
toward the north, it is bounded on the north-west
by Kirkmahoe; on the north-east by Tinwald; on
the east by Torthorwald ; on the south by Caerlave-
rock ; and on the west by the river Nith, which di-
vides it from Kirkcudbrightshire and the parish of
Holywood. It is 8 miles in extreme length, and
about 2^ in average breadth ; and contains an area
of 15 square miles. About 8 miles north of the
burgh, or of the centre of the parish, a range of hills
is cloven by the Nith, and they thence diverge and
sweep down, in a well-wooded and picturesque am-
phitheatre, toward the Sohv'ay frith, terminating, on
the- east side, in the heights of Mousewald, and, on
the west, in the towering summit of Criffel, and
enclosing, in their progress, a beautiful and nearly
level plain, of almost a regular oval figure. The
centre of this plain, at the place where it is broadest,
and where the two lines of hill are from 6 to 8 miles
asunder, constitutes the parish of Dumfries. Its
surface, for the most part, is a perfect level. But it
rises in a brief but beautiful acclivity, from the edge
of the Nith a little to the northward of the burgh,
undulates along the arena occupied by the streets,
and then rises into a low ridge of hills, which inter-
sect the southern division of the parish, stretching
away at half-a-mile's distance from the river toward
Caerlaverock. On their north- west face, where they
look down upon the Nith, these hills are sloping, and
wear the gentlest forms of beauty ; but on the north-
east they break down in abrupt declivities, and have
a bold front and commanding outline. In one place,
about l.J- mile from the burgh, they present a preci-
pitous front, and rise to a considerable height in two
perpendicular rocks, known as the ' Maiden Bower
craigs,' one of which has near its summit a remark-
able cavity, said to have been the scene of Druidical
* The original name was Dunfres, and is supposed to haW!
been derived from the Gaelic Dun and plireus, signifying ' a
Mound covered with brushwood,' or ' a Castle among shrubs.
The lightness of the soil, which was unlikely, in the lorest pe-
riod of Scotland, to bear indigenous trees of a size greater than
copsewood, teems to indicate that the appellatioo was appro,
priate.
DUMFRIES.
347
rites for the testing of virginity. About 2 miles to
the north-east of the burgh, is also a picturesque
height, called Clumpton, which, at an early period,
was, most probably, a mountain-grove and a haunt
of the Druids, and, in a later age, was used as a
beacon-post for commanding the considerable ex-
panse of country which it overlooks. A beautiful
eminence, called Corbelly hill, though not in the
parish, but rising from the opposite bank of the Nith
in the suburb of Maxwelltown, bears aloft an ob-
servatory, and mingles with the grouping of heights
and lawns and groves on the Dumfries side, to form,
if not a brilliant, at least an exquisitely fascinating
landscape. Along the whole western border, the
Nith sweeps gracefully under wooded and richly
variegated banks ; and along the eastern border the
sluggish and almost stagnant Lochar flows listlessly on
through the brown wastes of Lochar moss. All the
eastern section or stripe of the parish forms part of
this remarkable morass [see Lochae Moss] ; but
is, to a considerable extent, reclaimed, and, in some
spots, even smiles in beauty. The north and north-
western sections are a reddish earth upon a freestone
bottom; and the south-western is a strong clay, and,
in the flat lands, a clay upon gravel. Plantations of
oak, elm, and other trees, are of frequent occurrence.
Around the town, in every direction, are enclosures
surrounded with trees, gardens, and nursery-grounds,
neat lawns and pleasant mansions, which impress a
stranger with ideas of refined and opulent comfort.
Several small lakes, particularly the Black and the
Sand lochs, enrich the scenery of the parish, and,
when pavemented with ice, are trodden by numerous
groupes of curlers. In Lochar moss is Ferguson's
well, a mineral spring strongly impregnated with
steel ; and on the farm of Fountainbleau is a power-
ful chalybeate spring, which is numerously visited by
invalids, and held in much repute for its medicinal
properties. — Antiquities within the limits of the
burgh will occur to be noticed in the next article ;
but a few exist in other parts of the parish. A short
way south of the town, on a romantic spot called
Castledykes, overlooking a beautiful bend of the
Kith, stood formerly the fortified residence of the
Comyns. Near Castledykes is a field called King-
holm, which either may have received its present
name from Bruce, in connexion with his having
slaughtered Comyn, or may have originally been
called Comyngs-holm, contracted gradually into
Kingholm. At the opposite end of the town, and
cpon the banks of the river, is another field still
called Nunholm, which lies adjacent to the site of a
nunnery formerly established at Lincluden. Toward
the south end of the parish is an eminence ealled
Tiohoughton, which has been noticed by Pennant as
a Roman station. In the eastern part of the parish,
an antique, supposed to be a Roman sandal, was,
many years ago, found ; and in the Nith, nearly op-
posite to the town-mills, was found, about half a
century ago, a small gold coin, thinner than a six-
pence, but as broad as a half-crown, bearing, round
the impression of a Roman head, the inscription
' Augustus.' There are in the parish several small
villages, but all of inconsiderable importance. Dr.
Wight, professor of divinity in Glasgow, Dr. Eben-
ezer Gilchrist, and Mr. Andrew Crossbie, advocate,
were natives of Dumfries ; and the Rev. William
Veitch — of whose life Dr. M'Crie has given an ac-
count— was, for some time aft c-r the Revolution, its
minister. Population of the parish, including the
burgh, in 1801, 7,288; in 1831, 11,606. Houses
1,509. Assessed property, in 1815, £S,086.
Dumfries gives name to a presbytery and a synod,
and is within the jurisdiction of both. At the Re-
formation it was bereft of several chapels which for-
merly belonged to it, and of endowments connected
with particular altars, and left in possession of only
its principal church, dedicated to St. Michael. In
1658, a second minister was appointed; and in 1727
a second church, called the New church, was built.
In 1745, the old church of St. Michael was pulled
down, and the existing structure erected. The pa-
tron of both this church and the New is the Crown.
In 1838, a third church was built, and called St.
Mary's. All the places of worship in the parish,
both established and dissenting, are situated in the
burgh. Sittings in St. Michael's 1,250; in the New
church 1,185; in St. Mary's 1,034. Stipend of the
minister of St. Michael's .£332 Is. lid., with a glebe
of about £25 annual value ; of the minister of the
New church £231 13s. 4d The Episcopalian con-
gregation dates at least from January 1762. The
present chapel was built in 1817, and cost £2,200.
Sittings 300. Stipend, on the average, £250— The
First United Secession congregation was established
about 1760. The present church was built in 1829,
and cost upwards of £900. Stipend, in 1836, £120 ;
but the charge has since then become collegiate. —
The Second United Secession congregation was
established in 1807. The church was built in 1809,
and cost £1,350. Stipend £164 4s., including an
allowance of £20 for a house The Roman Catholic
congregation is local to one-third of its amount; and,
as to the remaining two-thirds, is scattered through
the conterminous parish of Maxwelltown, and over
the whole of Dumfries-shire and Kirkcudbrightshire.
Previous to the erection of their chapel in 1813, they
met in a private house in the burgh, and in the do-
mestic chapel of Terregles-house. The chapel cost.
£2,659 4s. 9d., and has 750 sittings. Stipend of
the minister and his assistant variable, and in 1S36,
£121 Is. l|d. The minister has also a house, rated
at £15 — The Relief congregation was established
in 1788. Sittings in the church 812. Stipend from
£60 to £120, with a manse valued at £12. In July
1835, the Rev. Andrew Fyfe, who had been 27 years
minister, left, the Relief body and joined the Estab-
lishment, and was followed, in his movement, by
about three-fourths of the congregation. A litigation
as to the right to the property of the chapel and
manse terminated in favour of the adherents to the
Relief body The chapel of the Wesleyan Metho-
dist congregation was built in 1 782, and cost £500.
Sittings 300. Stipend £81, with a house valued at
£8 The Independent congregation was established
in 1801. Their present chapel was built in 1835,
and cost about £700. Sittings 300. Stipend £80.
— The Reformed Presbyterian congregation are of
more recent establishment than any other of the
dissenting congregations, and they have a commo-
dious chapel According to a survey made by the
elders of the parish, in 1835 there were belonging to
the Establishment 5,118, belonging to other denomi-
nations 2,042, not known to belong to any religious
denomination 3,8S6. Of the last class — so dispro-
portionately and startlingly numerous — only 1,285
were above 12 years of age, all persons having been
included who were too young to attend public wor-
ship. There are 3 parochial schools recently erected,
and 36 non-parochial, most for the ordinary branch-
es, and some for the higher and most polite de-
partments of education. Probably in no place in
Scotland are there greater or more numerous facili-
ties for informing and polishing the minds of the
young. Dumfries academy, the chief of the schools,
has four masters; the salary of the classical master,
the interest of £660 6s. 3d., with fees from each
scholar of 7s. 6d. per quarter ; and the salary of each
of the other masters, the interest of £204 8s. 10d.,
with fees from each scholar of 5s. per quarter.
348
DUMFRIES.
Dumfries, a royal burgh, the county-town of Dum-
fries-shire, the seat of a circuit-court, and of a pres-
bytery and a synod, and the metropolis of the south-
west quarter of Scotland, is a place of elegance,
importance, and great antiquity. It is situated in
N. lat. 55° 2' 45'', and W. long" from Greenwich 3°
36', on a slight undulating elevation on the east bank
of the Nith, about 9 miles above the entrance of that
river into the Solway frith. It stands 72 miles south
from Edinburgh ; 74 miles to the east of south from
Glasgow; 60 miles south-east from Ayr; 30 miles
to the south of west from Langholm ; 8 miles south-
west from Lochmaben ; 33 miles round the eastern
extremity of the Solway frith from Carlisle ; and 341
miles by way of Manchester from London. Dum-
fries exults in the elegancies and attractions of a
minor capital, in the snugness and pomp of a numer-
ously opulent and aristocratical population, and in
the bustle and productiveness of a crowded agricul-
tural market. As a town, it is, as to both situation
and structure, one of the most beautiful in Scotland.
Built of a dark-coloured freestone, it, in some spots,
has the sombre aspect of a town of brick; but many
of its edifices being gauzed in a white paint, and
others so decorated with the brush as to resemble
structures of Portland stone, it presents a tout-
ensemble of variegated tints and mingled gaiety and
sadness which suggests ideas of the picturesque.
Entering the town from the north, a stranger passes
along a street of the beautiful and populous suburb
of Maxwelltown ; then turning round a right angle,
he crosses the Nith on a handsome bridge, erected
in 1794, whence he commands a view of the burgh
and its suburb, stretching partly to the northward
but chiefly to the southward, along the sloping banks
of the river; he now traverses Buccleuch-street,
light and airy in the aspect of its buildings, and the
site of the county-buildings and two elegant places
of worship ; be here passes to the right a street which
intersects the lower part of the town in a line paral-
lel to the river, and, at the top of Buccleuch-street,
he glances, through an opening on the left, on a
cluster of new streets which reminds him of some snug
but airy nook in the new town of Edinburgh ; he
next wends round an irregular but wide opening on
the left, and finds himself in a spacious area, whence
narrow but romantic-looking streets diverge, the
one parallel to Buccleuch-street away to the Nith,
and the other in the opposite direction curving round
northward to meet the river above a graceful bend
which it makes before approaching the bridge; and
standing in the centre of the area, with his face to
the south, he is overshadowed from behind with the
facade and spire of the New church, and looks down
the broad far-stretching High-street, sweeping away
southward parallel to the Nith. This street is nearly
a mile in length, but, like a brook in a romantic glen,
it deviates so from the straight line as, while dis-
closing part of its beauties, to allure a spectator on-
ward to behold more ; and it is of very unequal width,
averaging probably about 60 feet, but expanding at
three points into at least 100. At several places in
its progress it sends off branch-streets at right angles
toward the Nith; about half-way along it is joined
from the south-east, at an angle of 50 or 60 degrees,
by English street, the spacious thoroughfare to the
south ; and all along the east it is winged by lanes
and clusters of buildings which, together with the
streets lying between it and the Nith, make the
average breadth of the town i of a miie. All the
streets are well-paved, clean, and lighted up at night
with gas; some of the smaller ones are remarkably
elegant; and the great thoroughfares present an array
of large and brilliant shops which may almost bear
comparison with those of the proud metropolis. The
Nith adds much both to the beauty and salubrity of
the town, approaching it under an acclivity richly
covered with wood, — breaking over a caul built dia-
gonally across it for the supplying of a cluster of
grain-mills with water, — alternately leaping along in
a shallow current, and swelling backward upon the
caul by the pressure of the flowing tide, — and both
above and below the town, diffusing verdure and
beauty over banks which are rich in promenading
retreats for the citizens. Dumfries still wants a
luxury for a long time desiderated, and the absence
of which excited surprise in a stranger, — a supply,
by means of pipes, of good spring water.
A little below the bridge which communicates
with Buccleuch-street, is the old bridge, built in the
13th century. This was originally a structure of 13
arches, and was esteemed the best bridge in Great
Britain next to that of London; but it now consists
of only 6 arches, and is mounted by a rapid ascent
on the Dumfries side to what was formerly its centre,
and affords accommodation only to foot-passengers.
On the south side of Buccleuch-street are the county
jail and bridewell, the latter originally used as the
court-house, and both built in 1807. They are sur-
rounded by a high wall, bridewell in front and the
jail in the rear ; but are heavy-looking buildings, and
inconvenient places of confinement. Directly oppo-
site, on the north side of Buccleuch-street, and com-
municating with the jail by a vaulted subterranean
passage, is the county court-house. This was origi-
nally the spacious chapel, or " tabernacle," erected
by the Haldanes during the briefly triumphant inarch
of their missionary operations in Scotland ; and, after
having for years stood unoccupied, it was converted
into a courtroom and other judiciary offices, and
architecturally renovated and adorned, so as to com-
bine interior commodiousness with exterior elegance
of appearance. In the middle of the High-street,
cleaving it, for a brief space, into two narrow tho-
roughfares, is a cluster of buildings surmounted by
the Mid steeple, and including the chambers in which
the meetings of the town-council are held. Opposite
to it, in the eastern thoroughfare, is the Trades'
hall, erected in 1804, for the meetings of the seven
incorporated trades. Overshadowed by the Mid
steeple is a sudden expansion of the High-street
called Queensberry square, the centre of traffic for
the south-west of Scotland, and, in common with all
the adjacent thoroughfares and opens, the theatre of
dense crowds of actors on the day of the weekly
market ; and in this square a Doric column of hand-
some architecture, erected in 1780 by the gentlemen
of the county, in memory of Charles, Duke of Queens-
berry, rears aloft its fine pinnacle, and superintends
the busy scenes around. In George-street, the as-
sembly-rooms, of recent erection, display much
beauty of architectural design. At the townhead.
or on the elevated bank of the Nith, before it sweeps
round toward the New bridge, stands, in a spacious
area, and commanding a fascinating view, the High
school or academy. This institution has a rector
and four masters, and has, for a quarter of a century,
been celebrated as a place of liberal education. The
buildings are elegant, the class-rooms capacious, and
the masters well-qualified for their duties. The
Crichton Royal institution was originally designed
to be an university, but is a large and handsome
asylum provided by the bequest of upwards of
±"100,000 by the late Dr. Crichton of Friars carse.
At the south-east extremity of the town is the Dum-
fries and Galloway Royal infirmary, founded in 1776,
and maintained chiefly by legacies, private contribu-
tions, parochial allowances, and annual grants from
the counties of Dumfries, Kirkcudbright, and Wigton.
It is commodiously fitted up in the interior, but is a
DUMFRIES.
349
large and somewhat gloomy building, suggesting, by its
appearance, sympathy for its suffering inmates. This
institution is the only one of its class in the south of
Scotland, and has been of incalculable benefit to the
surrounding district. The poor's hospital, erected
in 1733, by the bequest of two relations of the name
of Muirhead, supports, as inmates, poor orphans and
aged paupers of both sexes, and affords pensions to
upwards of forty widows at their own homes; and
it is maintained partly by its own funds, and partly
by subscriptions and donations. At the west end of
the town is the public dispensary. In various locali-
ties are the offices of six banks ; four of which are
recently erected, and . beautiful edifices. The town
has two large and commodious inns, besides a num-
ber of secondary ones proportioned to its bulk and
importance. The Commercial inn is an object of
curiosity, from its having been, in his retreat from
England, in December 1745, the head-quarters of
Prince Charles Stuart. The theatre of Dumfries,
though small, is of handsome structure and under
spirited management.
Of the ecclesiastical edifices by far the most in-
teresting is the old parish-church, situated at the
south-east end of the town, and dedicated to St.
Michael, the patron saint of Dumfries. The present
edifice was built in 1743, and is surmounted by a
lofty and handsome spire. The cemetery around it
is famous for the vast multitude, and the singular
variety of its monuments, — its splendid mausoleums
rising like mimic temples over the ashes of the gifted
and the wealthy, — its forest of obelisks, columns,
and elevated urns, robed in white painting, and ap-
pearing in the dim moonlight bke an assembly of
spectres, — and its crowds of simple bead-stones rear-
ing their humble forms over the remains of the worthy
but unknown to fame. Exclusive of such as are in a
ruinous condition, the monuments, according to a
calculation of Mr. M'Diarmid — whose genius has
thrown so much lustre on the burgh — could not. be
reared at a much less expense than ■£ 100,000. There
are 120 monuments of the first class of architecture;
considerably upwards of 700 tomb-stones on pillars,
and in good repair ; about 220 head-stones or erect
slabs; and about 1,000 other monumental structures
or stones which are more or less dilapidated. Among
the monuments is one erected over the ashes of three
witnesses to the truth, who were martyred during
the persecutions of the Stewarts. But the struc-
ture which, more than any other, attracts the gaze
of strangers, and which lifts its fine dome into the
view of spectators at several miles distance, is a
splendid mausoleum over the mortal remains of the
poet Burns. The body of the bard, who spent at
Dumfries the latter unhappy years of his life, and
who, after his death, gave name to the small street
in which he died, was originally interred in a corner
of the cemetery, and honoured with only a plain
monumental stone. But a subscription, sanctioned
by a contribution of fifty guineas from George IV.,
having been raised to express admiration of the
poet's genius, his body, or as much of it as could
be collected, was exhumed from its obscure rest-
ing-place, and transferred to the site of the pre-
sent mausoleum. This beautiful edifice was con-
structed according to a design furnished by Thomas
F. Hunt, Esq. of London ; and it contains, in the
interior, a fine emblematic marble structure, designed
by Peter Turnerelli, which represents the genius of
Scotland investing Burns, in his rustic dress and em-
ployment, with her poetic mantle. So great is the
concourse of visitors to the mausoleum, that a path-
way has been beaten out by their feet across ail the
graves intervening from the entrance to the cemetery,
and the beadle who attends the visiters is supposed
to realize £50 a-year from their donations. The
New church looks down the High-street from its
north-west end, and is a fine edifice, surmounted by
a spire. It was built partly of materials from the
dilapidated old castle of Dumfries, on the site of
which it stands ; and was first opened for public
worship in 1727. The parish-church of St. Mary's,
an erection of 1S38, looks down English-street, the
great thoroughfare to England ; and is a conspicuous
and arresting object to strangers entering the town
from the south. It was built according to a design
furnished by John Henderson, Esq. of Edinburgli ;
and is a beautiful light Gothic structure, with an
ornamental spire supported by flying buttresses.
The Episcopalian chapel, and the Second United
Secession meeting-house, are both — especially the
former — neat and agreeable edifices, and contribute,
with the county-buildings, to present an attractive
picture to a traveller entering the town from the'
north. The Roman Catholic, the Independent, and
the Reformed Presbyterian chapels all Ukewise do
credit to the ecclesiastical architecture of the burgh.
Dumfries is rich in its religious, educational, lit-
erary, and social institutions. It has Bible and mis-
sionary societies, both general and congregational,
for aiding the diffusion of Christianity ; a Liberian
society for assisting the free negroes on the African
coast ; a Samaritan society for watching over the well-
being of the poor ; a friendly society for the support of
widows ; an association for resisting the encroachments
of infidelity ; 4 endowed, and upwards of 30 unendowed
schools; an astronomical association ; a horticultural
society ; a mechanics' institution ; an annual exhibi-
tion of works of art ; four public reading-rooms ; a
pubbc library, established in 1792; a society library,
established at an earlier period ; two other public
libraries, and three circulating libraries maintained
by the trade speculation of booksellers ; and three
weekly newspapers, the Courier, the Herald, and
the Times, — the first long known beyond the usual
limits of provincial newspaper circulation, for the
high literary character impressed upon it by its editor
Mr. M'Diarmid. Dumfries has altogether an in-
tellectual and polished tone, which invests it with
an importance far paramount to the bulkiness of its
papulation. In keeping, also, with the aristocratic
character of a portion of its inhabitants, it has a cha-
racter— an evangelical moralist would say, not an
enviable one — for gaiety and fashionable dissipation.
Besides its successful demand for select and cele-
brated actors in its theatre, it has a regatta club, a
share in the meetings of the royal Caledonian hunt,
and annual races in autumn on the crowded racing-
ground of Tinvvald downs. It was, till very recent-
ly, remarkable likewise for its frequent public pro-
cessions, and its periodical shooting, in the field
called Kingholm, for 'the siller gun,' — a bauble
presented to the town by James VI., when return-
ing from his visit to Scotland, as an expression of
his satisfaction with the loyalty of the burghers.
The navigation of the Nith has at a great expense
been materially improved. Embankments have been
thrown up, and various devices practised to counter-
act the devastating effect of the deep and impetuous
tide which rushes up from the Sol way; so that many
vessels, which were formerly obliged to unload at
Glencaple or Kelton, can approach close to the
burgh. Quays also are provided against whatever
emergencies may occur, or for the accommodation of
vessels of larger size, at brief intervals along the
river. Besides those at the town and at Glencaple
and Kelton, there is one, called the new quay, at the
bend of the Kith near Castledyke ; so that there are
altogether 4 quays within a distance of 5 miles. In
the year 1811, "the harbour stood greatly in need ot
350
DUMFRIES.
repair, and an act of parliament was obtained for the
purposes of repairing it, and of improving the navi-
gation of the river Nith. Obstructions had been
formed in the channel, and it was necessary for the
purposes of trade to cleanse, deepen, and straighten
it. By this act commissioners were appointed for
these purposes, with ample powers to carry them
into execution. Under this act £18,930 9s. lid.
had been expended up to 1834 in attempting to im-
prove the channel of the river, and in repairing the
harbour. From the varying currents, the naviga-
tion is still very dangerous ; but a rock which ran
across the bed of the river, visible at low water, and
prevented large vessels from passing Glencaple, has
recently been cut away. The amount of the debt
affecting the harbour in 1834, was as follows : —
£ s. d.
On bond, - 5,000 0 0
Balance due tlie treasurer, nn last settlement
of liis account, at 28tll September, 1833, - 909 7 3
£5,909 7 3
The debt is yearly decreasing, in consequence of
£250 yearly being provided for its liquidation.
The duties leviable from vessels arriving at the
port are the following : From coasting vessels 2d. per
ton register ; from foreign vessels 6d. ; from goods
Jd. ; from coal 6d. ; from lime 6d. And from out-
ward-bound vessels: coasting vessels 2d. ; goods Jd.
These dues are moderate, and the revenue arising from
them during the five years from 1828 to 1832 averaged
£1,0S3 5s. per annum. A part of the expenditure
incurred has arisen from improvements upon the
light-house at Southerness, and upon the landing-
places at the mouth of the river. From 12 to 14
foreign vessels belong to the Nith, and trade chiefly
with America. But the port is regarded as extend-
ing from the creek of Annan, or the head of the Sol-
way frith to Glenluce bay on the coast of Galloway ;
and, in 1835, it claimed 192 registered vessels,
11,79S tonnage; and in 1836 yielded £4,218 of re-
venue to the custom-house. The number of vessels
belonging properly to Dumfries is about 80. A
steam-vessel aiso plies weekly between it and White-
haven, holding communication thence with Liver-
pool, and conveys a large quantity of goods and live
stock, especially sheep, to the English market. The
principal imports are timber, slate, iron, coal, wine,
hemp, and tallow; and the principal exports wheat,
barley, oats, potatoes, wool, freestone, and live stock.
Dumfries, however, figures more as a mart than as a
port. Its markets have long been famous for the
transfer of stock from Scottish to English dealers,
and for their bulky, unfluctuating importance. On
every Saturday is a market of little value ; and on
every Wednesday is a great market, more resembling
an annual fair than a matter of hebdomadal occur-
rence. On the sands, an open space along the side
of the river, the cattle-dealers dispose weekly of an
immense number of cattle and pigs ; and, from the
end of December till the beginning of May, they there
dispose of many thousand carcases of pork, usually
selling upwards of 700 in one day, and sometimes, in
a few hours pocketing £4,000 or £5,000. There are
also great annual fairs at Whitsunday and Martin-
mas for black cattle, and, in October and February,
for horses. But the chief market is an annual fair in
September, when about 6,000 head of cattle are ex-
posed for sale. During the droving season, too,
a vast number of transactions are effected privately
throughout the surrounding country ; no fewer than
20,000 head of cattle, which had not been exposed
in market, having been known, in a period of ten
days, to pass the toll on the thoroughfare to England.
So many pass through Dumfries, that the custom
levied at the bridge has frequently amounted to £700
a-year. At each of the horse fairs about 500 horses
are disposed of ; and at that in February an immense
number of hare-skins are sold, probably not fewer
than 30,000 or 35,000. Manufactures are consider-
able in hats, which employ 200 workmen ; in ho-
siery, principally of lamb's wool, which engage nearly
300 stocking-frames; and in shoes and clogs, or
I wooden-soled shoes, which employ upwards of 300
individuals. There are also several breweries, sev-
eral tanneries, and an extensive basket-making estab-
lishment.
The municipal government of Dumfries is vested
in a provost, 3 bailies, a dean-of-guild, a treasurer,
and 19 merchant-councillors, constituted according to
the Reform act ; and the town is divided into four
wards, who elect the council and the commissioners
of police. The report of the convention of royal
burghs in 1709 stated the sett of Dumfries, or the
constitution of its council, to be what it still is under
the act of municipal reform. The 7 incorporated
trades of the town are hammermen, squaremen, wea-
vers, tailors, shoemakers, skinners, and butchers ;
and these formerly wielded a paramount influence in
the council. Dumfries unites with Annan, Lochma-
ben, Sanquhar, and Kirkcudbright in sending a mem-
ber to parliament. Parliamentary constituency, in
1839, 592; municipal, 485. A large part of the
heritable property formerly belonging to the town
has been sold during the present century. The
debts with which the town was burdened, as well
as the extensive improvements which have been
carried into effect during that period, are assigned as
the cause of these sales. All of these alienations are
stated to have been made by " public roup for full
value," and no undue preference appears to have
been shown to existing councillors. The property,
thus disposed of, amounted to £15,305 Is. 7d.
Corporation revenue, in 1838-9, £1,596 6s. lid.
The present property of the town consists princi-
pally of mills and granaries, which, in the year end-
ing 15th October, 1833, yielded a rental of £357 19s.
8d. sterling. The burgh is also possessed of some
shops and nouses in the suburbs, with small portions
of land attached to them, which yielded a rental last
year of £1 79 10s. ; and it has feu-duties, which yield
annually £114 4s. 5d. This was stated to compre-
hend the whole of the real property of the burgh,
with the exception of a sum of £1,125 9s. 9d. of
arrears, which have accumulated since 1815, and a
great part of which is represented as desperate.
Ordinary Revenue.
The revenue of the burgh lor the year ending 15th October,
1833, stood as uuder :
£ s. d.
1. Feu-duties 1+145
2. Rents of Lands, - . - 179 10 0
3. Rents of mills and granaries, - 357 19 8
4. Customs, 5S9 17 10
5. Teiods, - - - - 81 1 0
6. Impost on ale, - - - - 66 15 0
7. Rents of church seats 236 18 8
8. Burgess composition, - - - 24 4 0
Casual Revenue.
Miscellaneous articles,
£1,050 11 1
. 0 16 0
£1,651 7 1
The expenditure of the burgh for the year, from 1832 to 1833,
stood thus ;
Ordinam Expenditure.
£ s. d.
1. Interest on debts, - ... 276 8 0
2. Repairs on public buildings, Jkc, - - 310 3 10
3. Public burdens, . . . - 69 1 3
4. Entertainments, . - 45 7 6
5. Salaries, ..... . 440 13 5
6. Miscellaneous articles, - - - - 50 14 1
Casual Expenditure.
\. Miscellaneous articles (subscription and
advances on occasion of cholera, and
aliment of prisoners), ... 386 16 8
DUMFRIES.
351
2. I.aw exppnses (partly to account of old
balances), 101 6 3
£1,743 11 0
During this year the magistrates paid off
debts tn the extent of - 800 0 0
And contracted debts to the extent of - - 5^5 H 1
Difference,
274 5 11
The burgh, from time immemorial, has possessed a
right to levy tolls and customs for cattle and various
descriptions of commodities passing across the river
Nith. At what time this right was first constituted
is uncertain ; but the burgh is in possession of docu-
ments showing that this tax was levied in 1425. In
1681 this right was confirmed by an act of the Scot-
tish parliament ; and it was then declared that the
burgh shotdd possess, in all time coming, a right to
levy customs from " Portractford exclusive, down-
wards to the mouth of the water of Kith," for the
purpose of upholding the bridge of Dumfries. The
amount of the dues leviable is not defined under the
act, but they were fixed by a minute of council in
1772. The burgh has also the right to levy sundry
small customs within burgh, and these, together with
the bridge-custom, in the year ending 15th October,
1833, yielded £589 17s. lOd. The amount of police
assessment for 1832 was £815 6s. 9d., and the an-
nual revenue was further increased by a'sum of £212
7s. 2d., arising from the sale of manure, and police
fines. This sum is amply sufficient to defray all
the ordinary charges. The parliamentary boundaries
of Dumfries, under the reform act, include Maxwell-
town and its suburbs on the west side of the Nith.
Being the metropolis of an important county, it has
a large number of resident lawyers ; and, in addition
to its quarter-sessions, it has twice-a-year the cir-
cuit justiciary court for the southern districts of
Scotland, and the sheriff and small debt courts.
Its ancient arms was a chevron and three fleurs de
lis; but that used for many years past is a figure of
St. Michael, winged, trampling on a serpent, and
bearing a pastoral staff. The motto is " Alorburn,"
a word which, during many centuries of warfare when
the burgh was constantly exposed to danger, was
used as a war-cry to assemble the townsmen. The
side toward the English border being that whence
danger usually approached, a place of rendezvous
was appointed to the east, an area intersected by a
rill called the Lowerburn or Lorburn; and when the
townsmen were summoned to the gathering, the
cry was raised, " All at the Lowerburn," — a phrase
■which was rapidly elided into the word " Alorburn."
A street in the vicinity of the original course of
Lowerburn, bears the name of Lorburn-street. The
populous suburb of Maxwelltown, formerly called
Bridgend, agglomerates with Dumfries, and properly
forms part of the town; but it is under separate
jurisdiction, both civil and ecclesiastical, and will be
noticed in a separate article. See Maxwelltown.
In consequence of a considerable part of it being
colonized with Irish, and in other respects out of
keeping with the flaunting character of the aristo-
cratic burgh, it is treated with some contempt by
the Dumfriesians, and, though contributing some
fine features to the scenic grouping of their town,
figures in their conversation chiefly as an object of
sport. Including this suburb, the population of
Dumfries amounted, in 1831, to 16,271.
Dumfries appeal's to have originally grown up
around a strong castle or border-fortress, which was
of great importance during the 12th century, and —
especially in the times of Wallace and Bruce — was
often a subject of contention between the Scotch and
English. So early as the reign of William I., who
died in 1214, it was of such importance as to be the
seat of the judges of Galloway ; and it appears to
have received its charter either immediately after the
accession of that monarch, or during the preceding
reign, that of David I. From several remains of
antiquity, it even appears to have been a place of
some consequence before the end of the 8th century.
So great and almost paramount a public work as the
old bridge could have been thought of only in con-
nection with a town and thoroughfare quite as im-
portant to Scotland, in the middle ages, as modern
Dumfries is to the country at present; and this erec-
tion was constructed before the middle of the 13th
century, by the Lady Devorgilla, third daughter of
Allen, Earl of Galloway, and mother of King John
Baliol. The same lady founded at Dumfries a mo-
nastery of Grey Friars. This edifice stood on a
mound at the margin of the Nith, and, though long
since untraceable, continues to give name to Friars
Vennel, one of the considerable streets of the town.
In 1305, Robert Bruce had, in the chapel of this
monastery, an angry altercation with the Red Comyn,
a relation of its foundress. Hesitating about assert-
ing his title to the crown, and irritated by opposi-
tion from Comyn, he poniarded the latter before the
altar, and, rushing out to his friends who waited at
the gate, hurriedly expressed a doubt that he had
slain him. " You doubt !" cried one of his friends ;
"I mak siccar;" and he immediately ran to the
wounded rival of his master, and despatched him.
Bruce, by this event, was committed to open war-
fare ; and, unfurling his standard against the oppo-
nents of his claims, he led them on to Bannockburn,
and there trod over their bodies to the throne.
After the assassination of Comyn, the frequenters of
the Grey Friars' chapel deserted it, and began to re-
sort to the chapel of St. Michael, which stood on
the site of the present St. Michael's church. Ed-
ward I. of England, in the course of his inroads into
Scotland, occasionally halted at Dumfries ; and here
he ignominiously put to death the brave patriot and
brother-in-law of Robert Bruce, Christopher Seton.
The scene of Seton's execution was a mound or
slight eminence to the east of the town, at the en-
trance of the town, then and previously the gallows-
hill or common place of public execution, but now
known as Kirsty's (Christopher's) mount. Christian
Bruce, the widow of Seton, erected on the spot a
chapel to his memory ; and her brother, King Robert,
granted, in 1324, a hundred shillings yearly out of
the barony of Caerlaverock, for the support of a
chaplain who should offer masses for the soul of
the deceased. All vestiges of the building, which
was called St. Christopher's chapel, have disap-
peared.
Dumfries castle was seized and garrisoned by Ed-
ward I., after he had dethroned John Baliol; but
was retaken by Bruce after he had slain Comyn; and
before 1312, it was once more seized by the English,
and was again, in that year, retaken by Bruce. In
1307 Edward II. marched upon Dumfries, and re-
ceived the homage of several Scottish nobles. In
1396 the burgh obtained some important immunities
from Robert III. ; in 1485 it received from James II.
a charter, confirming its privileges and possessions ;
and in 1469 it obtained from the Crown all the houses,
gardens, revenues, and other possessions, which had
been the property of the Grey Friars.* During the
* Infeftment was recently given on a royal charter in favour
of the magistrates of Dumfries, confirmatory of all their for-
mer rights, privileges, and corporate immunities, the records of
many of which had been lost or destroyed in 1715 and 1745, and
other troublesome times. This new grant also confers on the
town a right of guildry, of which it was not formerly possessed.
James VI. had granted to the corporation a signature to that
effect, about the year 1621 ; yet it did not appear that infeftment
had ever passed upon it. This document was only lately, and
by accident, brought to light.
352
DUMFRIES-SHIRE.
troubles which so long harassed and devastated the
borders, Dumfries was frequently, in spite of the
brave resistance of its citizens, plundered and burned.
In 1536, one such disaster was signally retaliated by
Lord Maxwell, who made an incursion into England,
and reduced Penrith to ashes ; and about the same
period, either that nobleman, or some member of his
family, built a strong castle for the defence of the
town. In 15G5, this castle was surrendered to
Queen Mary, when, at the head of a portion of her
troops, she visited the town to reduce and castigate
some of her disaffected nobility. In April, 1570,
Lord Scroop, acting under the Earl of Essex, made
a devastating inroad upon Dumfries-shire, and, in
spite of a brave resistance on the part of the towns-
men of the burgh, who marched under the leading of
Lord Maxwell to oppose him, he took and plundered
the recently erected castle, and set fire to the town.
The citizens, harassed by frequent and heavy calam-
ity from invasion and rapine, felt aroused to attempt
the rearing of some strong rampart for their protec-
tion. In 1583, they erected a strong building called
the New Wark, which served the double purpose of
a fortress, and of a retreat for the people, and a re-
pository for their goods when they were beaten back
by invaders. No vestiges, however, either of this
erection, or of the old castle, or of the castle built
by the Maxwell family, can now be traced. About
the time, too, when the New Wark was erected, or
possibly at an earlier period, a rude fortification or
extended rampart, called the Warder's Dike, was
thrown up on the south-east side of the town, be-
tween the Nith and Lochar moss.
Dumfries was visited in 1617 by James VI., when
he was on his return to England ; and it then re-
ceived from him 'the siller gun,' to be shot for every
seventh year by the incorporated trades. During
the reign of Charles I. it shared largely in the disas-
ters which overspread the country ; and it shared
still more largely in those of the dark reign of
Charles II. On the 20th of November, 1706, 200
Cameronians entered the burgh, published a mani-
festo against the impending union of the two king-
doms, and burnt the articles of union at the cross.
The Covenanters were indignant that the articles of
union made no recognition of their solemn league
and covenant, and that they, on the other hand, re-
cognised the constitution of the church of England,
■which they had sworn to overthrow and exterminate ;
but notwithstanding the intemperance and tumultu-
ousness of their well-meant proceedings, they hap-
pily did not succeed in precipitating the town into
any serious disaster. During the insurrection of
1715, when Viscount Kenmure encamped on the
heights of Tinwald, and menaced the burgh with his
army, the war-cry of ' Loreburn' arose for the last
time in the streets of Dumfries ; and so loud was its
sound, and startling its reverberations, that the Vis-
count, without attempting to execute his menaces,
broke up his camp, and marched away to Annan.
During the insurrection of 1745, a part of the citi-
zens cut off at Lockerby a detachment of the High-
landers' baggage, and, in consequence, drew upon
their town a severer treatment from the Pretender
than was inflicted on any other burgh of the size.
Prince Charles, on his return from England, let loose
his mountaineers to live at free quarters in Dumfries;
and he levied the excise of the town, and demanded
of the citizens a contribution of 1,000 pairs of shoes,
and £2,000 sterling. An alarm having reached him
that the Duke of Cumberland had expelled his par-
tizans from Carlisle, and was marching rapidly on
Dumfries, he hastily broke away northward, accept-
ing for the present £1,100 of his required exaction,
and carrying with him Provost Crosby, and Mr.
Riddell of Glenriddell, as hostages for the payment
of the remainder. The town suffered considerably
from the plunderings of his troops ; and is supposed
to have sustained, by his visit, damage to the amount
of £4,000 sterling. The king — to whom, in oppo-
sition to the Stuarts, the town was steadfastly at-
tached— afterwards granted, from the forfeited estate
of Lord Elcho, the sum of £2,800, to compensate
in part for the losses of the citizens, and express his
approbation of their loyalty. Since 1746, the burgli
has plenteously participated in the blessings of peace
and increasing enlightenment, and though moving more
slowly than some other towns in the race of aggran-
dizement, has been excelled by none in the graceful-
ness of its progress, and the steadiness and substan-
tial character of its improvement.
Dumfries gives the title of Earl in the Scottish
peerage, to the ancient family of Crichton of San-
quhar. In 1633, William, 7th Lord Crichton, was
created Earl of Dumfries, enjoying, at the same time,
the titles of Viscount of Ayr, Lord Crichton of San-
quhar and Cumnock, and other honorary distinctions.
In 1696 the earldom, owing to a want of male heirs,
passed to a female branch of the Crichton family,
who married a member of the family of Dalrymple,
and son of the 1st Earl of Stair. William Dal-
rymple, her eldest son, and 4th Earl of Dumfries,
afterwards succeeded to the Stair peerage. On his
death the earldoms were again separated, — that of
Dumfries passing to his nephew, Patrick Macdowall
of Feugh. This last Earl's heir or inheritrix was
a daughter, who married John Stuart, eldest son of
the Marquis of Bute. By a royal licence the Bute
family, the present proprietors of the earldom, have
assumed the name of Crichton.
DUMFRIES-SHIRE, a large, important^ and
beautiful county in the south of Scotland, deriving
its name from the town just described. It is bounded
on the north by the counties of Lanark, Peebles,
Selkirk, and Roxburgh; on the east by Cumberland ;
on the south by the Solway frith; on the south-west
by Kirkcudbrightshire; on the west by Kirkeud-
■brightshire and Ayrshire ; and on the north-west by
Ayrshire. In latitude it extends from 55° 2', to 55°
31' ; and in longitude from 2° 39', to 3° 53', west
from London. Its figure is irregularly ellipsoidal :
the greater diameter from the mountain of Corson-
eone on the border of Ayrshire, to Liddel mount on
the border of Roxburghshire, in a direction nearly
south-east by east, measures about 50 miles; and the
lesser diameter, from Loch Craig on the confines of
Peebleshire, to the Solway frith at Caerlaverock-
castle, in a direction west of south, measures about
32 miles. Its ellipsoidal form, besides undulating in
every part of the circumference, is indented to the
depth of 10 miles by the southern point of Lanark-
shire, to the depth of 5 miles by Ettrick Head in
Selkirkshire, and to the depth of 3 miles by the point
of Kirkcudbrightshire, which forms the parish of
Terregles. Its circumference, drawing the line
across the waters at the mouth of the estuaries of
Nith and Annan, is about 174 miles, extending round
a mountain-line of 120 miles, a champaign line on
the east of 18, a line of sea-shore from the Sark to
the Nith of 21, and a champaign line along the Nith
and the Cluden on the south-west of 15. The sur-
face of the county contains an area of 1,006 square
miles, or 644,385 English acres. These are the
measurements of Dr. Singer, in his General View of
the Agriculture of Dumfries-shire, derived, at a large
cost to the landholders, from the labours of a ten
years' survey. Other measurements, however, assign
to the county 1,228 square miles, or 785,920 acres,
and 1,800 square miles, or 1,820,000 acres. Dr.
Singer's measurements are probably within the truth,
DUMFRIES-SHIRE.
yet seem to have been made with caution. For
several miles on the south-west, the county is divided
from Kirkcudbrightshire by Cairn water. From the
point where that stream ceases to touch it, all the
way round its western, northern, north-eastern, and
eastern border, it is — with the deduction of Liddes-
dale, or the parish of Castletown, which, though
sloping toward the south, is included in Roxburgh-
shire— marked off by the highest elevations of the
mountain-range which breaks away westward from
Cumberland and traverses the south of Scotland.
Falling in now with Liddel water, the boundary-
line follows that stream till its confluence with the
Esk ; it thence, for about a mile, follows the united
rivers, and then, for upwards of 3 miles, breaks due
westward through an open country, till it strikes the
Sark ; and, following that stream to the sea, it after-
wards runs along the margin of the Solway frith and
the estuary of the Nith. The county is thus, with
some unimportant exceptions, shut in by natural geo-
graphical limits.
All the northern part of Dumfries-shire is very
mountainous, not only the summits of the water- i
dividing line which bounds it, but the elevations of |
the spurs which that range sends down toward its
lowlands, rising, in many instances, to a great height
above the level of the sea. Along the boundary from
west to east are Black Larg, 2,890 feet above sea-
level; Lowther, 3,130; Queensberry, 2,140; Hart-
fell, 3,300, the highest mountain in the south of
Scotland ; Whitecoomb, nearly of equal altitude ;
Ettrick Pen, 2,220; Wisp-hill, 1,836; and Tinnis-
hill, 1,846. Radiating from the boundary mountain !
range are spurs, which, in some instances, run far !
down the county, decreasing, in their progress, into '
hills, but which, in most instances, are short, and I
allow the multitudinous head-waters, or mountain- j
rivulets of the border, to find confluences with one
or other of three rivers which traverse the lowlands
of the county. Of the interior mountains, the most
remarkable are Cairnkinna and Glenquhargen in Pen-
pont, the former 2,080, and the latter 1,000 feet
above sea-level; Langholm-hill, between the Esk
and the Tarras, 1,204; and Brunswark-hill, in the
parish of Hoddam, 740. [See separate articles in
the present work on most of these mountains.]
Almost all the mountains, whether on the boun-
dary or in the interior, have an inconsiderable
basis, a rapid acclivity, and summits, in some in-
stances, round-backed or flattened ; in others, co-
nical; and, in a few, tabular or flat. The peak-
ed and towering summits, or summits of rugged
and craggy outline, so common in the Highland
counties, are here unknown. Yet the Dumfries
alps are scarcely less grand or picturesque, and at
intervals but a degree less savage than those of Ar-
gyle or Perth ; and they abound in sylvan ravines,
and fairy nooks, and retreats of scenic beauty to
which the Highland alps are strangers. The central
or midland part of the county is exquisitely diversi-
fied in scenery,, and exhibits an attractive blending of
hill and valley, — the elevations possessing every va-
riety of character, and often rising to considerable
altitude, and the lower grounds consisting of slope,
undulation, moorland, dell, and holm; so that a
tourist traversing the district, no matter in what
direction, is continually stimulated by novelty of
view, and rapidly surveys the most heterogeneous
classes of attraction in landscape. Down to the
southern line of the midland district, the county,
after ceasing near the boundary to be sectioned off
into fragments by mountain-spurs, is divided into
three great valleys or basins, traversed by the rivers
Nith, Annan, and Esk. But that part of the county
which lies south of a line drawn from Whinnyrig by
Ecclefechan, Craigshaws, Solway bank, and Broom-
holm to Moorburnhead, is comparatively low and
flat, being only occasionally marked by low hills,
either round-backed or obtusely conical. At this
line, the basins of the Annan and the Esk cease to
be valleys, and are spread out or flattened into plains.
The valley of the Kith, too, for 10 miles before it
touches the Solway, is in all respects a plain, with
the exception of a short range of low hills in the
parish of Dumfries, a few unimportant isolated emi-
nences, and an amphitheatre of beautiful but not
high hills, one side of whicli divides the plain from
the basin of the Annan, while the other trends
away into Galloway. A section of this plain of the
Nith is the dead level of Lochar moss. Dumfries-
shire, sloping down from the alpine heights of its
cincturing boundary, and subsiding eventually into a
plain, is Lombardy in miniature, — differing from its
beautiful Italian type, chiefly in having a larger pro-
portion of upland compared to its champaign country.
From the configuration of the county, no streams
might be expected to flow into it from adjacent dis-
tricts, and none to flow out except to the sea. The
original praters of the Nith, however, as well as one
or two of the unimportant and remote tributaries of
that river, pass into the county through gorges or
openings on the west. All other waters, which
any where traverse it, well up within its own limits,
and expend all their resources in enriching its own
soil. The Kith, from the very point of entering it,
and the Annan and the Esk, from a short distance
south of their source, begin to draw toward them
nearly all the other streams, so as to form the county
into three great valleys or basins. All these three
rivers pursue a course to the eastward of south, the
Kith on the west, the Annan in the middle, and tho
Esk on the east ; and, with the exception of some
small curvings, they flow parallel to one another, at
an average distance of about 12 miles, imposing upon
their own and their tributaries' basins the names re-
spectively of Kithsdale, Annandale, and Eskdale.
The streams which flow into them, though very
numerous, are, for the most part, of short course, of
small body of water, and remarkable only for the
beauty or picturesqueness of the ravines or dells
through which they pass. The chief of those which
enter the Kith are, from the west, the Kello, the
Euchan, the Scaur, the Cavern, and the Cluden ;
and, from the east, the Crawick, the Minnick, the
Enterkin, the Carron, the Cample, and the Duncow.
The chief which enter the Annan are, from the west,
the Evan, and the Ae; and, from the east, the Mof-
fat, the Wamphray, the Dryfe, and the Milk. The
chief which enter the Esk are, on the west, the Black
Esk; and, on the east, the Stennis, the Ewis, the
Tarras, and the Liddel. In addition to these streams
— which are all described in separate articles in our
work — and multitudinous smaller ones, but inde-
pendent of the three great rivers of the county, four
rivulets, each 10 miles or more in length, flow south-
ward, and fall into the Solway, — the Lochar and rhe
Pow in the space between the Kith and the Annan,
and the Kirtle and the Sark in the space between
the Annan and the Esk. Several of the upland and
tributary streams, like the parent rivers to whose
embrace they run, form, for a brief way, considerable
basins of their own, and impose upon them their
names. Ancient documents, and even the rustic na-
tives of the present day, talk frequently of Moffat-
dale, Dryfesdale, Ewisdale, and 'tbe lads of Ae.' —
Dumfries-shire possesses very few lakes, and these
of but small extent. The most remarkable are those
in the vicinity of Lochmaben, nine in number, the
largest fully 3 miles in circumference. Loch. Skene,
too, at the source of Moffat water, is notable in con-
354
DUMFRIES-SHIRE.
nection with its furnishing the stream which forms
the magnificent cataract called the ' Grey Mare's Tail.'
Salmon, herlings, parr or samlet, and sea-trout, are
found in the larger rivers; and pike, perch, trout,
and eels, in the smaller. Fish in great abundance,
and, in one instance, of a strictly peculiar species, are
found also in the lakes. In the Nith and the Annan,
fishing for salmon, grilse, and whiting or herling,
commences on the 10th of March, and closes on the
25th of September ; but as to the period both of
commencing and of closing, is generally considered
to be a month too early. The fisheries of all the
rivers are greatly injured by the killing of salmon in
the spawning season, and by the use of stake-nets in
the Solway Springs of the purest water exist in
great numbers in the gravel beds and fissured rocks
of the mountain district of Dumfries-shire. Of min-
eral waters in the county, the chalybeate are most
frequent, and are always discovered by the oxide of
iron which they deposit round their bed. The most
celebrated are a chalybeate near Annan ; another at
the Brow, in the parish of Ruthwell ; a sulphur-
spring at Closebum-house ; a chalybeate in a ravine
of Hartfell mountain ; and particularly the two
springs, one sulphureous, and the other chalybeate,
near the village of Moffat.
Most of Dumfries-shire basks, with a southern
exposure, under the genial rays of the meridian sun.
The high mountain-range which, over so consider-
able a distance, environs it, softens the acerbity of
blasts from the north-west, north, and north-east.
Its southern or perfectly lowland division, is warmed
by the vicinity of the Solway, and hardly ever, in
any spot or in any intensity of frost, retains snow
for a week. Most of the rain which falls in the
county is accompanied with mild winds from the
south or west, and differs widely from the chilling
distillations which annoy the eastern coasts of the
kingdom. Snow, though capping the alpine sum-
mits on the boundary, does not remain very long on
even the mountain faces of Dumfries-shire. Mois-
ture, however, is somewhat abundant, coming more
freely from the Atlantic than, on the eastern coast,
it does from the German ocean. Rains prevail most
towards the beginning of August and the end of
September, and are then well-known under the
names of the Lammas and the equinoctial floods;
and they also, not infrequently, fall long and heavily
during the months of winter. The prevailing winds
blow, in summer and autumn, from the west and
the south; and, in spring and winter, from the east
and the north. The heat often rises, in summer,
above 70° Fahrenheit, and has been known to raise
the thermometer to 92° in the shade; but in the
average of the year, it is believed to be about 45°.
The climate, as regards salubrity, is in general
thought good.
Hares, in many districts, are very abundant. Rab-
bits also are found ; but they are few in number, and
have not any regular warren. Foxes have here re-
treats, whence they occasionally sally to plunder the
poultry-yard; and they afford considerable employ-
ment to hounds, and sport to huntsmen. The red
deer and the capercailie, which formerly were met
with in Dumfries-shire, are now extinct. Two or
three forest-deer were recently discovered at Rae-
hills, and have been protected and propagated ; but
they are believed to have strayed from the hills of
Lanarkshire. At a former period, indeed, the forest-
deer, though for a time extinct, was very abundant;
and it is frequently found inhumed in the morasses.
Pheasants, grouse, black game, partridges, and other
game birds, and also the woodcock, the curlew, the
plover, the snipe, and the lapwing, are very plentiful.
A brown or reddish coloured sandstone, dipping
generally toward the Solway, and supposed to be a
continuation of the red marl formation of Cumber-
land, stretches athwart the southern part of Dum-
fries-shire; and proceeding northward, merges in a
reddish coloured limestone, succeeded first by blue
limestone and coarse white sandstone, and next by
mandlestone rock and primitive formations contain-
ing metallic ores. Near Dumfries and Lochmaben
the sandstone is red ; near Langholm and Sanquhar,
it is grey; and at Cove, near Kirtle water, it is of
light colour and solid texture, affording a fine mate-
rial for pillars. The sandstone, where it crops out,
is frequently incohesive, and is called tillband ; but
by being followed in its dip, it is usually found suffi-
ciently compact to be used for ridge-stones. In
each of the three great divisions of the county, lime-
stone is worked in large quantities for sale. In
Annandale the quarries are most numerous, but are
each greatly inferior to the quarry of Closeburn in
Nithsdale. At Kelhead the lime rock, which is of
the first quality, is from 12 to 24 feet thick, and is
said to yield 95 parts out of 100 of carbonate of lime.
Ironstone has been found in spheroidal masses, asso-
ciated with limestone, and exists also in detached
masses in wet bogs; but it has not hitherto been
worked. Marble has been worked at Springkell,
Kelhead, and other places, and employed for some
useful and ornamental purposes. Veins of slate are
found in Evandale and the parish of Moffat ; but, in
the former case, are too schistous, and in the latter
too inconveniently situated to be of practical value.
Coal, though supposed, in continuation of the coal-
field of Cumberland, to stretch at a great depth under
the red strata of the shores and valleys of Nithsdale
and Annandale, and though seemingly, in some parts,
forced up near the surface, and often laboriously
searched for by boring, is found in a workable state
only in the parishes of Sanquhar and Canobie, at the
extremities of the county. The coal of Sanquhar is
probably connected with the coal-field of Ayrshire ;
that of Cannobie affords a supply of about 25,000 tons
per annum ; yet Dumfries-shire is, for the most par*,
obliged to supply itselt with coal from Cumberland, o.
to find a suceedaneum for it in the produce of Lochar
moss and other bogs. Extensive lead-mines, the
most productive in Britain, are worked at Wanlock-
head on the north-east boundary of the parish of
Sanquhar. The galena or ore yields from 74 to 80
per cent. ; is contained in veins of from a few inches
to 15 feet thick; and, during a period of 50 years,
yielded 47,420 tons. Silver is extracted from this
ore in the proportion of from 6 to 12 ounces in the
ton. Lead ore has been found also, but not worked,
in the parishes of Penpont, Johnstone, St. Mungo,
and Langholm. Gold occurs in the mountains around
Wanlockhead, either in veins of quartz, or in the
sand washed down by the rivti'ets. In the reign of
James V. 300 men are said to have been employed
there during several summers, and to have collected
gold to the value of £100,000 sterling; and either
they or subsequent searchers have left monuments
of their diligence, in the artificial mounds of sand
which overlook the gold-bearing streams. The largest
piece of gold ever found at Wanlockhead, is in the
British museum, and weighs 4 or 5 ounces. Very
recently two pieces were picked up which weighed
respectively 60 and 90 grains. An antimony mine,
the only one in Great Britain, was discovered in
1760 at Glendiiming, in the parish of Westkirk;
and, from 1793 till 1798, produced 100 tons of the
regulus of antimony, worth £8,400 sterling. The
ore is a sulphuret, and yields about 50 per cent. ;
and forms a vein seldom exceeding 20 inches in thick-
ness, and combining blende, calcareous spar, and
quartz. Copper-ore is said to have been found, bus
DUMFRIES-SHIRE.
355
not in considerable quantity, in the toadstone in the
parish of flliddlebie. Manganese occurs in small
quantities in nests or heaps. Gypsum is found in
thin veins. Loose blocks of sienite are found all
over the low part of the county. Greenstone, grey
wacke, and greywacke slate, compose the rocks of
many of the hills. Floetz-trap is found, generally
in the shape of mountain-caps, on the summits of
the mountains. Basaltic or whinstone rocks occur
in various localities, and exhibit some fine specimens
in the mountains near Moffat.
The soil, in the lower parts of Dumfries-shire, is
in general light, and underlaid with rock, gravel, or
sand. ■ In some places, where it has a subsoil reten-
tive of water, it is cold, and occasions rankness of
vegetation. In Nithsdale and Annandale it is for
the most part dry, but in Eskdale it is in general
wet. A gravelly or sandy soil prevails on the ridges
or knolls of the valleys and even of the bogs. Muir
soil abounds in the mountain- districts, and wherever
there is white-stone land; but when its subsoil is !
dry, it is capable of gradual transmutation into loam.
A loamy soil, rich in vegetable mould, covers con-
siderable tracts in the lower southern district, and
is interspersed with other soils on the gentle slopes
of the midland district. Alluvial soils — called in other
parts of Scotland haugh-land, but here called holm-
and — abound along the margins of the streams; and
in general are shallow and poor in the upland dells,
and deep and rich in the lowlands. Clay, as a soil,
seldom occurs, except as mixed with other sub-
stances ; but, as a subsoil, is extensively found,
either white, blue, or red, under the green sward of
ridges, and beneath soft bogs. Peat-moss exists, in
great fields, both on the hills and in the vales; and,
wherever drainage can be practised, is such as may
be converted into soil. Sleech, or the saline and
muddy deposition of the waters of the Solway,
spreads extensively out from the estuary of the
Lochar, and is not only productive in itself, but
affords an effective top-dressing for the adjacent
peat-moss.
Estates are held either of the Crown, or of a sub-
ject superior, who may or may not have property in
the county; and, in either case, they may be laid
under entail for an unlimited period, and in favour
of heirs yet unborn. Kindly tenures, or possessions
of land as the king's kindly tenants, subject to the
annual payment of a small fixed sum to an officer of
royal appointment, exist in the vicinity of the castle
of Lochmaben, and present an anomaly any resem-
blance to which in Scotland is found only in Orkney.
Feu-holding, which involves perpetuity of right and
full power of alienation, but is subject to an annual
payment quite or nearly equal to the fair rent of the
soil, is confined chiefly to the burghs. Burgage-
holding extends over considerable tracts of land
around Dumfries, Annan, Lochmaben, and Sanquhar.
Long leases of small portions or plots of land — pro-
vincially but inaccurately called feus — -are every-
where common ; and, being granted with a view to
building, imbody in a degree the idea of property.
Farms of arable land are generally let on leases of
15, 19, or 21 years; and those of sheep-pasture, on
leases of 9 or 13. A stipulation is made, in most
instances, that not more than one-third of the arable
land shall, at one period, be under white crops ; and,
in other instances, that the four-field or six-field
course of husbandry shall be practised. But leases
are of various forms, and not very rigidly observed
in their conditions. Pasture-farms are usually en-
tered at Whitsunday, and arable-farms in autumn
after the removal of the crop. Rents are paid, one-
half at Whitsunday, and the other at Martinmas.
Sheep-farms vary in size from 300 to 3,000 acres,
and pay, on the average, about 4s. per acre of rent
Arable farms vary from 50 to 600 acres, a large pro-
portion of them being from 100 to 150; and they
pay from .£1 to £5 per acre, — the average for good
land being about i3 10s. Some farms — though
only an inconsiderable proportion, and chiefly in the
midland districts — are both pastoral and arable, and
are regarded as particularly convenient and remuner-
ating.
The agricultural capacities of Dumfries-shire were
long under-estimated and neglected, and did not
begin to be fairly developed till the year 1 760.
Charles, Duke of Queensberry, who died in 1778,
greatly improved his property in Nithsdale and An-
nandale,— the largest property in the county. The
Earl of Hopetoun laid the basis of extensive pros-
perity in the pastoral uplands of Annandale ; and by
abolishing thirlage to his mills, and giving advan-
tageous leases to the farmers, spread a new and rich
carpeting over the lowlands of his property. The
Duke of Buccleuch, grandfather to the present duke,
succeeded, by skill and liberality, and by bearing the
chief expense of the great road leading from England
along the Esk, in diffusing agricultural energy over
his extensive possessions in Eskdale. Sir John
Heron Maxwell and Mr. Pulteney Malcolm intro-
duced new and effective methods of husbandry into
considerable districts on the southern plain. J. J.
Hope Johnstone ot Annandale, Esq., drew excited
and profitable attention to improvements in the breed
of cattle, and set a high example to landlords in a
liberal treatment of his tenants. Menteath of Close-
burn, however, on an estate of 10 miles by 8, achieved
improvements which have provoked the emulation
and aroused the energies of the whole county. By
drainage, by the free but judicious use of lime, by
irrigation, and by a wise and handsome treatment of
servants, he has converted mimic wildernesses into
gardens, and raised the value of some laud from 5
shillings to £± 10s., and £5.
Crops are cultivated of various kinds, and in vari-
ous orders of rotation. In the uplands, and recently
reclaimed grounds, wheat is not an object of atten-
tion. Farmers, in the best districts, differ consider-
ably in their modes of culture; some skilfully en-
deavouring to suit a permanent course of cropping
and of management to the peculiarities of the soil;
and others labouring, by ingenious or experimental
changes in the genera of the crops, and in the order
of their rotation, to extract from the soil, its maxi-
mum of productiveness, without, at the same time,
doing damage to its energies. A rotation of frequent
occurrence is, first, oats, — next, potatoes or turnips,
the latter fed off by sheep, — next, wheat or barley,
sown with grass-seeds, — next, hay, — and finally, for
three years, pasture. Both for home-consumption
and for exportation, oats and potatoes are more plen-
tifully cultivated than any other crop. The culture
both of potatoes and of turnips — particularly the
latter — has of late years very greatly increased, and
is found to be a valuable improvement. Potatoes
are in much request for the fattening of pigs and
cattle. On ground of difficult access, and generally
on upland farms, bone-dust is advantageously used
in enriching the soil; and in fact this manure has
throughout entire districts come into general use,
and is an object of considerable mercantile or pro-
ductive speculation. Implements of husbandry, and
all the appliances of the farm-yard, are the same as
those in other agricultural counties. The Dumfries-
shire farmers, however, have very generally thrown
away the sickle, in the reaping of their crops, and
adopted in its stead a small scythe. Most of the
farm-houses, including all of recent erection, are
built of stone and lime, roofed over with slate, and
356
DUMFRIES-SHIRE.
are commodious and well-arranged. Plantations and
pleasure-grounds abound in the lower parts of the
county, and are everywhere remarkable for their
beauty and opulence.
The mountainous division of Dumfries-shire is
employed in pasturage ; and is stocked, partly with
black cattle, but principally with sheep. The cattle
of Eskdale are, in general, larger than any others in
the county. All farmers, however, who purchase
cattle for breeding, endeavour to introduce the beau-
tiful and much-valued form of the true Galloway
cattle. Their prevailing colour is black, and their
weight from 32 to 55 stone. The mountain-flocks
of sheep consist either of Cheviots, or of black faces
with short wool. But most of the sheep are of
mixed breed, — the Cheviots having been crossed with
the Leicester sheep, the South Downs, and the Ne-
gretto and Paular breeds of Spain A peculiarity in
the store-farming of Dumfries-shire, is its rearing an
enormous number of pigs. In the year 1770 not
more than £500 value was received in the produce
of pork ; but so far back as 1812 it had risen to about
£50,000 a-year ; and since then, it has very greatly
increased. The pork is excellently cured, and sent
off in bacon to most of the leading markets of Eng-
land.
Dumfries-shire, though conducting an extensive
export trade in oxen, sheep, pigs, corn, wool, and
skins, is not strictly a commercial, much less a manu-
facturing county. Its sea-ports are the scenes of a
sea-ward traffic exceedingly small in proportion to
its intrinsic importance and productive capacities: See
articles Annan and Dumfries. Woollen and linen
manufactures, though frequently tried in the county,
have but recently been naturalized, and are still very
limitedly successful. At Sanquhar, and the vicin-
ity, ginghams, Thibets, and tartans are woven. At
Dumfries and at Annan, coarse ginghams are largely
manufactured, chiefly for the Carlisle market. Wages
have greatly declined for the last two or three years.
The average amount of a weaver's work, per week,
will not exceed one cut, or 60 yards of coarse ging-
ham, for which he only receives 6s. 6d., with Is.
extra, if approved, making 7s. 6d. But out of this
he has to pay 2d. per shilling for winding, and at
least Is. for loom-rent, wear and tear, fire and light,
&c, leaving not above 5s. 3d. clear, on 6 days' work
of 11 hours per day. Females employed in hand-
sewing muslin collars, and seaming stockings, earn
about 2s. per week; and in winding, from Is. 6d. to
2s. About 35 years ago, weavers in this county
might have made 35s. per week ; though they in fact
— such were their habits of dissipation — seldom made
above 10s. Such energies as in other localities would
be directed to manufacturing and mercantile enter-
prise, are here almost all employed in subordination
to the direct and accessory pursuits of agriculture;
but great improvements, from a concurrence of agen-
cies, and a co-operation of favourable influences, have
taken place, since the commencement of the present
century, upon the condition and habits of the popu-
lation. Smiling cottages, neater and cleaner than
anywhere else in Scotland, — moorlands, richly cul-
tivated to the base, and even up the acclivities, of
mountains, — a soil, arrayed in the gayest dress, and
laden with luxuriance, — roads, churches, school-
houses, fences, rural clothing and popular manners,
convenient, beautiful or refined in character, — all
attest the high though tranquil prosperity which
Dumfries-shire has attained.
The county is intersected in every direction with
excellent roads. The two Carlisle and Glasgow
turnpikes traverse it from Sarkbiidge respectively
through Annan, Dumfries, Thornhill, and Sanquhar,
— and through Ecclcfechan, Lockerby, Dinwoodie-
Green, and Beatock; the Dumfries and Edinburgh
turnpike, northward by way of Moffat ; the Carlisle
and Edinburgh turnpike, along the vales of the Esk
and the Ewes; and the Dumfries and Ayr turnpike,
north-westward through Dunscore and Glencairn.
Cross-roads wend along every valley, or stretch out-
ward on the straight line, from village to village;
and, in general, they have been much improved, and
are kept in good repair. Safe and easy communica-
tions have been opened also through several parts of
the alpine districts Two distinct lines of railway
from the great line along the west of England have
been projected, and either doubtless, if executed,
would add incalculably to the facilities of communica-
tion, and the relative value of produce in this county.*
Besides the fairs and cattle-markets of the town
of Dumfries, [see Dumfries,] there are fairs for
lambs, at Langholm, 26th July; and at Lockerby,
16th August and 16th October, excepting when the
date falls on Saturday, Sunday, or Monday, and then
on the Tuesday following; — for sheep, at Langholm,
18th September; — for tups, sheep, lambs, and wool,
at Sanquhar, 17th July, if Friday, and if not, on
Friday following; — for tups, at Moffat, in the latter
end of June; at Annan, in May and October; at
Moffat, in March and October; and at Lockerby, in
April.
* Of these two projected lines, that railed the Nithsdale line
commences at the Carlisle terminus of the Newcastle and Car-
lisle railway. After crossing the Eden, it takes a northerly
direction towards the E*k, which it crosses below the iron
bridge; it then bends round to the westward, keeping parallel
to the Solway frith, and passes Annan witter a little to the
south of the present bridge; thence, it approaches Comlangen
castle, and, skirting the north side of Loehar moss, reaches
Dumfries. In this distance the gradients are of a very easy
character. From Dumfries the line keeps the valley of the
Nith up to New-Cuuinock. Shortly after leaving Dumfries it
crosses the river, which it recrosses at Aldgirth bridge; it then
skirts the north side. if the village of Thoruhill, and keeps along
the east side of the Ntth to half-way between that place and
Sanquhar, where the ravine widens, and it will become neces-
sary to cross the river in two or three places. From Sanquhar
to Kirkcoimel the line still keeps on the east side of the Nith ;
bot, a little beyond the latter town, it may be again requisite
twice to cross the river. The line is on the east side of the
stream up to New-Cnmnnck, where it leaves the valley of the
Nith. Between Old and Now-Cumnnck it keeps parallel to
the turnpike. road, and here crosses the summit of the pas9
through this part of the country. At the village of Auchioleck,
a little beyond Old-Cumnock, the line crosses the turnpike-
road, which it recrosses near Borgour, and it then keep* on the
east side till it intersects Cessnuck water. The line passes the
Irvine water a little below Hurleford bridge; is afterwards
carried over the turnpike-road ; and enters the northern sub-
urb of Kilmarnock, crossing, by a viaduct, Kilmarnock wafer.
It here curves to the west to join the intended Kilmarnock
branch of the Glasgow and Ayr railway. Hence the line passes
by Dairy, Beith, Lochwinuueh, Johnstone and Paisley to Glas-
gow. To the distance of 92 miles 18 chains, are to be added 10
miles IS chains of the Kilmarnock branch, not yet begun, ami
'22 miles 53 chains of the Ayrshire railway; making the total
distance from Carlisle to Glasgow 125 miles 0 chains, and to
Edinburgh 171 miles 9 chains ; whereas by the Clydesdale line
the latter distance is only 97 miles 44 chains, and the former
only 100 miles 74 chains. This latter line enters Dumfries-
shire near the pass of the Clyde's Nap, where a cutting of 2
tmles 5(1 chains in length, and 50 feet in depth, will be required.
From hence the line keeps on the sooth side of the turnpike-
road and on the right bank of Elvan water, which runs into
the Annan to the southward of Beatock bridge. At Middle.
Gill a viaduct will be required of 30 chains in length and Hi)
feet in extreme height. The line passes within about a mile
of Moffat, and to the west side of Beatock. bridge inn, crossing
the Dumfries and Edinburgh road near Kirkpalrick manse; it
continues nearly in the same direct course and approaches the
Annan, which, as well as the turnpike-road from Glasgow lo
Carlisle, it crosses near Johnstone bridge. From this point Ihe
line towards Lochinaben and Annan, as projected by Mr.
Locke, commences, bot a shorter line preferred by the parlia-
mentary commissioners, takes a course towards Lockerby,
crossing the turnpike-road twice, and the Dryfe water. From
Lockerby the line pri ceeds to Gretna by Ecclcfechan, thrice
crossing the turnpike-road, and the Milk, the Mein, and Ihe
Kirtle. It then proceeds by the west side of Gretna, and jUst
alter crossing the Sark joins the Lochinaben and Annan route,
ami passing Moss-bank, crosses the river Esk by a bridge of 17
teet in height and 13'i yards in length. From hence the line
proceeds direct towards the eastern Bide of Caldcw church,
where it takes a short curve to the eastward, and joins the
Carlisle and Newcastle railway, crossing ill its course the river
Eden by a bridge 38 feet high and 1UU yards in length.
DUMFRIES-SHIRE.
35
at
A line of Roman road, proceeding northward, an-
ciently entered Dumfries-shire across the Liddel, and
wended along the east side of the Esk to Castle O'er
and Raeburn-foot in Eskdale-muir. Another and
more important line entered the county across the
Sark at Borrowslacks, advanced to the westward of
Brunswark-hill, crossed the river Milk at the drove
ford, between Scroggs and the bridge, proceeded by
Lockerby and Torwood-muir, across the Dryfe a
little way above its confluence with the Annan, and
here divided into two branches, the one stretching
northward through Annandale, and the other west-
ward into Nithsdale. Of these two branches, the
former, or the main line, wended along the east side
of the Annan, passed Dinwoodie green and Girth-
liead, crossed the Wampliray water, and northward
at Burnfoot, crossed the Annan to the Roman in-
trenchments at Tassie's holm ; it then crossed the
Evan, advanced by the farm of Dyke, ascended the
ridge of Loch-house, and passed on to the top of
Errickstane-brae, advancing to Newton in Lanark-
shire. The second or westward line of the main
road, proceeded, from the point of its divergence in
Dryfesdale across the Annan, by Amisfield house,
Duncow, and Dalswinton, advanced up the east side
of the Nith by Thornhill, crossed Carron water,
turned then away northward, entered and traversed
the defile called the Wellpath, in the mountains
above Durrisdeer, and there passed into the basin or
vale of the Powtrail in Lanarkshire, 'afterwards to
rejoin at Crawford castle, the line which had tra-
versed Annandale. Some inferior side-branches
struck off from these central lines. One diverged
from the westward branch, through Kirkmichael, to
what is now the glebe of that parish, and where
there seems to have been a Roman station ; and an-
other turned off to the west from the Nithsdale road,
crossed the Nith, and passed through Tynron by
Scaur water. The most remarkable stations con-
nected with the roads, are those of Brunswark,
Castle O'er, and Raeburnfoot, together with Agrico-
la's camp on Torwood-moor near Lockerby. In many
places are Roman encampments, circular and square
fortifications, cairns or burians, vestiges of towers,
and moats or artificial mounts, which are supposed
to have been the seats of popular judicial assemblies.
The most remarkable towers are at Amisfield, Lag,
Aehincass, Robgill, and Lochwood ; and the largest
and most beautiful moat is at Rockhnll, near Loch-
niaben. Remains or vestiges of druidical temples
exist in the parishes of Gretna, Esdalemuir, Holy-
wood, Wampliray, and Moffat. A remarkable an-
tiquity, supposed to be of Anglo-Saxon origin, is
the cross of Markland, found in the churchyard of
Ruthwell. The principal ancient castles, are those'
of Caerlaverock, Tortherwald, Closeburn, Morton,
and Sanquhar, in Nithsdale; Aehincass, Hoddam,
Comlongan, and Lochwood, in Annandale ; and
Wauchope and Langholm, in Eskdale. In various
places, are vestiges of ancient monasteries. Through-
out the country, vast quantities of ancient coins and
medals and pieces of armour have been found.
Dumfries-shire originally comprehended, in addi-
tion to its own ample territory, the stewartry of
Kirkcudbright; and, in the reign of William I., was
placed under a sheriff. But, during a considerable
period, its sheriffs had only a nominal authority be-
yond the limits of Nithsdale. From the reign of
David I. till that of Robert Bruce, both Annandale
and Eskdale were under independent baronial juris- j
• diction, — the latter on the part of various proprie-
tors, and the former on the part of Robert Bruce's
ancestors. The county consisted then strictly of
lh« sheriffship of Nithsdale, the stewartry of Annan-
dale and the regality of Eskdale ; and was parti-
tioned off very nearly, according to the water-lines
of the three principal rivers by which it is traversed.
Bruce, on receiving the Scottish crown, made great
alterations in the civil polity of his kingdom, and paved
the way for hereditary sheriffships and local jurisdic-
tions. But by an act passed in the 20th year of the
reign of George II., all heritable jurisdictions and in .
ferior stewartries were abolished ; each county was
ordained to be under one sheriff; and the stewartries
of Kirkcudbright and Orkney were appointed to be
considered as counties ; — and, in virtue of that act,
Dumfries-shire assumed the status and the jurisdic-
tion which it has since maintained. This county
sends one member to parliament: constituency, in
1839, 1,927. Its four royal burghs, Dumfries, An
nan, Lochmaben, and Sanquhar, also unite with
Kirkcudbright to send a member. The county con-
tains six burglis-of-barony, Moffat, Lockerby, Lang-
holm, Ecclefechan, Thornhill, and Minnyhive; the
village of matrimonial fame, Springfield or Gretna
green ; the villages of Glencaple, Tortherwald, Tin-
wald, Penpont, and Kirkconnell ; and, in the lower
district, a swarm of hamlets. Population, in 1801,
54,597; in 1831, 73,770. Houses 12,385. Assessed
property, in 1815, ±'295,621. The valued rental, in
1808, was ±219,037 10s. 8d.
Till the epoch of the Reformation, Dumfries-shire
formed part of the extensive diocese of Glasgow, and
was divided into the two deaneries of Nithsdale and
Annandale. The synod of Dumfries not only em-
braces the whole county, but extends its jurisdiction
considerably into coterminous districts ; and consists
of five presbyteries, Dumfries, Lochmaben, Annan,
Penpont, and Langholm. The presbytery of An-
nan has 8 parishes, and that of Penpont 9, all within
the county ; the presbytery of Langholm, 6, one of
which is in Roxburghshire ; the presbytery of Loch-
maben, 13, small parts of two of which are in Lanark,
shire ; and the presbytery of Dumfries, 1 7, ten of
which are in Kirkcudbrightshire. The total number
of parishes in Dumfries-shire is thus 42. The num-
ber of parochial schools, in 1834, was 65, under 69
teachers; of schools not parochial 129, under 143.
teachers. The total number of scholars 11,437.
Dumfries-shire, in common with a large part of
Galloway, was, at the period of the Roman invasion,
A. D. 80, inhabited by the tribe called the Selgov;e.
The Romans intersected the county with roads,
overawed it with mibtary stations, included it in
what they termed their province of Valentia, and
exerted a humanizing influence upon its barbarian in-
habitants. After they withdrew, it remained, for a
season, in a state of independence ; but subsequently
was overrun by Ida and the Angles, and, during two
centuries, formed a part of the new kingdom which
they founded. Vast multitudes of immigrants poured
into it, in the meantime, from among the Cruithne
of Ireland and the Scoto-Irish of Kintyre, and raised
up with the natives the mongrel breed of Picts.
This hardy, though heterogeneous race, burst the
yoke of foreign domination, and restored the dis-
trict to a condition of rude independence. Edgar,
after his accession, in 1097, abolished the system of
local governments, and established the Anglo-Nor-
man dynasty, dividing Scotland into lordships. At
his death, Dumfries-shire, in common with Cambria,
in which it had become included, passed, by his be-
quest, to his youngest brother, David. Having be-
come the adopted home of many opulent Anglo-Nor-
man barons, whom David invited hither as settlers,
Cambria was now partitioned into extensive baronies,
and enjoyed the luxury of an apparently fair ad-
ministration of justice. Nithsdale was possessed
by a powerful chief, called Donegal, of Celtic an-
cestry, whose descendants assumed the name of
DUM
358
DUN
Edgar ; Eskdale was subdivided among Asenals,
Sonlises, Rossedalls, and others, who figured briefly
and obscurely in their country's annals ; and An-
nandale was possessed by Robert de Bruce, a chief
of skill and valour, whose descendants afterwards
wore the Scottish crown. The Bruces had many
lands and castles in the county; but during the
12th and 13th centuries, resided chiefly in the castle
of Lochmaben. Lesser proprietors in Annandale
held of the Bruces as retainers, such as the Kirk-
patricks of Kirkpatrick, the Johnstons of Johnston,
the Carlyles of Tortherwald, and the Carnocs of
Trailflat and Drumgrey. But, independently of any
of the great barons, the ancestors of the present
house of Maxwell held the castle and lands of Caer-
laverock ; and, in the same way, Sir John Comyn
held lands which, including the estate of Duncow,
stretched round Dumfries to the south-east till they
touched the Nith at Castledykes. In 1264, Alex-
ander III. advanced to Dumfries with a large army,
and thence despatched John Comyn and Alexander
Stewart to the isle of Man to subjugate it to Scot-
land. In the wars of Bruce and Baliol, Dumfries-
shire was placed between two fires ; or, to use a
different figure, it nursed at its breasts both of the
competitors for royalty ; and from the nature of its
position, bearing aloft the Bruce in its right arm
and the Comyn in its left, it was peculiarly exposed
to suffering. Located as the baronial possessions of
Bruce were in Annandale, and those of Baliol in
Nithsdale, Dumfries-shire was necessarily the scene,
if not of the most decisive, at least of the earliest
and the most harassing struggles of the belligerents.
Bruce, after the victory of Bannockburn had put
him into undisputed possession of the kingdom,
gave the Comyns' manor of Duncow to Robert
Boyd, and their manor of Dalswinton to Walter
Stewart; he bestowed on Sir Thomas Randolph,
his own lordship of Annandale and castle of Loch-
maben, and created him Earl of Moray ; and he con-
ferred on Sir James Douglas, in addition to the
gift of all Douglasdale, the greater part of Eskdale
and other extensive possessions in Dumfries-shire.
In the troubles and warfare which occurred under
David II., between the Brucians and the Baliols,
this county was again the chief seat of strife and dis-
aster. Nor did it suffer less in degree, while it suf-
fered longer in duration under the proceedings of the
rebellious Douglasses, who, after being introduced to
it by Robert Bruce, grew, by various ramifications of
descent and acquisition, to be its most potent barons.
On the attainder of this family in 1455, their au-
thority and possessions reverted to the Crown, and
were in part bestowed on the Earl of March. In
1484, the county was invaded by the exiled Earl of
Douglas and the Duke of Albany ; and thence, dur-
ing a century and a half, it appears never to have
enjoyed a few years of continuous repose. So late
as 1607, the private forces of Lord Maxwell and
the Earl of Morton were led out to battle on its
soil, and were with difficulty prevented from track-
ing it with blood. During, in fact, the entire period
from its assuming an organized form till the union of
the Scottish and the English crowns, Dumfries-shire,
from being situated on the border, was peculiarly
exposed to hostile incursions and predatory warfare.
Some of its children distinguished themselves by
deeds of patriotic bravery ; and others, for many
generations, subsisted entirely on spoil and pillage.
Under James VI., the county sat down in quietude,
and began to wear a dress of social comeliness ; but
again, during the reign of the Charleses, was agi-
tated with broils and insurrections. In the rebel-
lions of 1715 and 1745 — especially in the latter — it
was the scene of numerous disasters, — disquiet and
consternation spreading here, more perhaps than in
any other district of Scotland, among the middle and
lower classes of the population. Of the aristocrats,
a large proportion were imbued with the spirit, and
a considerable number shared the ruin, of Jacobitism.
The Maxwells, in particular, were utterly destroyed
by the attainder of the Earl of Nithsdale in 1715;
and, at the eras of both rebellions, several other
families of note became, as to their possessions and
influences, extinct. In more recent times, the
Douglasses of Queensberry, and the Johnstons of
Annandale, have merged into other families. At
present, the noble house of Buccleuch is by far the
ascendant family of the county, and possesses pro-
perty, ecclesiastical patronage, and other appurten-
ances of rank and social grandeur, almost too great
to be employed, except in very judicious hands, be-
nignly for the well-being of the community.
The principal seats in the county are, Drumlanrig
castle, Duke of Buccleuch and Queensberry; Ken-
mount, Marquis of Queensberry ; Comlongan castle,
Earl of Mansfield ; Rachill's, Hope Johnstone of
Annandale ; Springkell, Sir Patrick Maxwell ; Jar-
dinehall, Sir William Jardine ; Maxwelltown, Admi-
ral Sir Robert Lawrie, Bart. ; Amisfield, Charteris,
Esq. ; Closeburn hall, C. G. S. Menteath, Esq. ;
Craigdarroch, R. Cutlar Fergusson, Esq., M. P. ;
Westerhall, Johnston, Bart. ; Drumcrieff, Rogerson,
Esq. ; Hoddam castle, General Sharpe ; Dalswinton,
M' Alpine Leny, Esq., formerly the seat of the cele-
brated Mr. Miller; Murraythwaite, Murray; Bar-
jarg tower, Hunter ; Blackwood-house, Copland of
Collieston ; Langholm lodge, a hunting-seat of the
Duke of Buccleuch ; Broomholm, Maxwell ; Ter-
regles-house, Maxwell of Nithsdale; Mossknow,
Graham.
DUMGLOW. See Cleish.
DUN,* a parish in the north-east of Forfarshire ;
bounded on the north by Strickathrow and Logie-
port ; on the east by the parish of Montrose, and
Montrose basin ; on the south by the river South
Esk, which divides it from Marytown and Farnell ;
and on the west by Brechin. It is of nearly a square
figure, with points running off at two of its angles ;
and measures in extreme length and breadth about 4
miles, and in superficial area about 12 square miles.
Along the banks of the South Esk and the shore of
Montrose basin the surface is low, flat, protected by
embankments, and of a clayey fertile loam. A little
northward, and up to the centre of the parish, the
surface gently and gradually rises, carpeted with a
fine productive soil of blackish mould. From the
centre to the northern boundary the surface ceases
to rise, and, excepting a considerable tract which is
covered with plantation, is, in general, wet and miry.
Two brooks of local origin flow eastward respectively
to the Esk and the basin. A third is collected into
an artificial lake on the west, called Dun's dish,
covering about 40 acres, and used to drive a mill.
The bed of Montrose basin along the base of the
parish, has a black, slimy, and very dreary appearance
at low water; and is then frequented by considerable
numbers of athletic females, from the neighbouring
fishing- village of Ferryden, searching for bait. Over
the South Esk is a finely ornamented bridge of 3
arches, built in 1787. The river abounds with sal-
mon, sea-trout, a fish called the finneck, which ap-
pears only during August and September, and several
other fronts of passage. Dun, at the Reformation,
was the property of a gentleman of the name of Er-
skine, who figures in a manner most patriotic and re-
ligious in the history of the period. The parish is
traversed, at its greatest breadth, by the highway
* Tlie wvne is Gaelic, and sigmfiea a liill, or rising ground.
DUN
359
DUN
between Montrose and Brechin, and is abundantly
intersected by minor roads. Population, in 1801,
680; in 1831, 514. Houses 114. Assessed property,
in 1S15, £5,135 Dun is in the presbytery of Bre-
chin, and synod of Angus and Mearns. Patroness,
the Marchioness of Ailsa. Stipend £159 3s. 2d. ;
glebe ±'15. A new church has recently been built.
Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4Jd., with ±19 19s.
of other emoluments. There is an unendowed
school.
DUNAVERTY CASTLE, a stronghold — of
which scarcely a vestige now remains — on the
summit of a rock considered to be the point in
Kintyre nearest to the Irish coast. In 164" this
castle sustained a severe siege by General Leslie
with a body of 3,000 men. The garrison consisted
of about 300 Irish and Highlanders, under the
command of a brother of Sir Alexander M'Donald.
They were " put to the sword every mother's son,
except one young man," says Sir James Turner.
DUNBAR,* a parish in Haddingtonshire, at the
mouth of the frith of Forth, along which its coast
extends, in a very sinuous line, upwards of 10 miles;
but in a direct line somewhat less than 8 miles. Its
average breadth is 2 miles. It is bounded by the
frith of Forth on the north; by Innerwick parish,
from which it is separated by Dryburn water, on the
east and south ; by Innerwick, Spott, and Stenton
parishes on the south ; and by Prestonkirk and
Whitekirk parishes on the west. A detached por-
tion of the portion — called Dunbar outer common —
consisting of about 7 square miles, is separated from
the parish by the intervention of the parishes of Spott
and Stenton, being bounded by these parishes on the
north ; by Spott and Innerwick on the east ; by two
detached portions of Spott and Stenton parishes on
the south ; and by Whittingham parish on the south
and west. This detached portion is quite a moor-
land district, lying upon the Lammermoors, and
having its waters flowing to the south-east and
drained by the Berwickshire Whitadder. Of the
main part of the parish, amounting to 8~i plough-
gates, or nearly 7,200 acres, all arable, the general
appearance is gently undulating and pleasing. The
western part of the coast, including Tynningham and
Belhaven bays, presents a fine clean sandy beach; on
approaching Dunbar, from the west, the coast be-
comes bold and rocky; to the eastward of Dunbar
it presents a series of low rocky ledges, generally of
red sandstone formation, and dipping gently to the
south-east. As we advance towards the east, how-
ever, these rocks assume a more vertical slope, and
here and there shoot up in sharp peaks. The red
sandstone is succeeded by a grayish sandstone, further
to the east. Limestone rocks prevail in the eastern
district of the parish. The rocks in the immediate
neighbourhood of the port of Dunbar are of a reddish-
coloured trap-tufa, and exhibit in many places a very
regular columnar structure. The highest ground is
Brunthill, which forms the extreme south-east point
of this part of the parish, and rises to an altitude of
about 700 feet above sea-level. A little to the north
of it, on the march with Spott parish, is Doou hill or
Down hill, which is about 120 feet lower. The only
* Tile parish of Dunbar, says Chalmers in his ' Caledonia,'
[.vol. ii. p. 5:18 and 406,] took its Celtic name from the town;
and the town obtained its designation from the fnrtlet on the
rock, which at this place projects into the sea. Dun-har, in the
British, and the Gaelic, signifies 'the Fort on the height,' or
* Strength upon the summit;' hut ought nut to be rendered— as
Lord Hailes has done— into the English ' tup-cliff.' Buchanan
and Boece inform us that Kenneth I. having defeated the Picts
i" a pitched battle at Scoon, conferred the fortress here upon one
of his must valiant soldiers, whose name was Bar; and hence
the name Dunbar, or 'the castle of Bar.' In Dtil we find the
men ol Lothian, under two leaders of the name of Dunbar and
Graeme, doing battle agaiust the Danish invaders at Cullen.
streams in this parish are the water of Beil and the
water of Spott— two rivulets more remarkable for
the beautiful scenery through which they glide, than
for their volume of water or length of course. The
soil is partly a rich loam, partly clay, and partly a
light mould well-adapted for the production of grain
and green crops of every description. Both the old
and the new Statistical reporters on this parish claim
for it the high pre-eminence of being the most fertile
tract of the most fertile district of Scotland. When
the Old Statistical Report was written [1 792] the
rental of the parish was ±8,000; lands near the town
yielding a rent of from ±4 to £5 5s. per acre ; and
several considerable farms, from 30s. to 42s. In
1823 the rental was £23,405 ; the highest rent being
£6 per imperial acre ; and the average rent £3 10s.
per Scots acre. The valued rent is £16,953. As-
sessed property, in 1815, £24,570. Houses) in
1831, 698. Population, in 1801, 3,951 ; in 1831,
4,735. In 1821 it was 5,272, an increase to be
accounted for chiefly from the estabUshment, in
1815, of a large cotton manufactory at Belhaven,
with which above 500 people were connected, but
which stopped working in 1823. — The principal
villages in the parish are Belhaven and West
Barns, both which are situated on the great
post-road from Edinburgh to Berwick, which runs
through the whole length of this parish : See these
articles. East Barns, now little more than a farm-
village, is celebrated in the annals of necromancy
as having been the residence of a very famous
witch, Isabel Young, who was convicted and burnt
in 1629. The ancient villages of Belton, Hether-
wick, and Pinkerton, with their respective chapels,
have long since disappeared. The principal seats
are Belton, Lochend, and Broxmouth. There is
good fishing of white-fish, lobsters, and herrings off
the coast This parish is the seat of a presbytery,
in the synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron,
the Duke of Roxburghe. A Secession church was
established here in 1766; church built in 1814;
sittings 700. — In 1820, an Antiburgher Secession
congregation, which had been estabbshed at East
Barns in 1763, transferred their place of meeting to
Dunbar. — A Wesleyan Methodist chapel was built
here so early as 1 764 The principal schools in the
parish are the two burgh-schools, — the grammar and
the mathematical school. The master of the first
has a salary of £42; of the second, £36. There are
2 parochial schools; the salary of the 1st master be-
ing £34 4s. 4|d. ; of the other, the interest of a
mortification of £150, and half-a-chalder. Besides
these there are 2 private schools within the burgh,
and a Mechanics' institution.
The royal burgh and seaport of Dunbar, in the
above parish, is situated at the mouth of the frith of
Forth, on the great post-road from Edinburgh to
Berwick; 28 miles from Edinburgh, 11 from Had-
dington, and 30 from Berwick. It chiefly consists
of one spacious street called the High-street, of
which Dunbar-house, the residence of the Earl of
Lauderdale, forms the northern termination. Par-
allel to this street, and between it and the shore,
run two smaller streets ; while the harbour projects
a little into the bay, on the south-east ; and the bold
rocks which are crowned by the ruins of its far-famed
castle rise directly north of Dunbar-house, and with-
in 300 yards of it. The houses are mostly modern.
The most ancient part of the town is in the vicinity
of the harbour and the castle. The town-house is
an old edifice. In 1S22 handsome assembly-rooms
were built by subscription. There are a few neat
villas in the neighbourhood. The church, a very
handsome edifice — to be afterwards noticed — is on
the south-east outskirts of the town.
360
DUNBAR.
The harbour is small, and incapable of receiv-
ing ships of above 300 tons burthen. " In the
earlier periods of the history of Scotland, the collec-
tion of the customs or duties upon merchandise due
to the Crown was generally intrusted to the royal
burghs, who enjoyed the exclusive privilege of foreign
trade. Through the distance of Haddington from
the English border, the collection of the king's cus- '
toms seems to have been neglected in the Merse dur-
ing the reign of David II., and an opportunity af-
forded to the English when in possession of Berwick
and Roxburgh, to purchase and carry off from that
district wool, hides, and other merchandise, without
paying custom. To remedy the evil, that monarch,
by a charter dated the 40th year of his reign (1369),
granted to the Earl of March the right of having a
free burgh at Dunbar, and free burgesses dwelling in
the same, who should have the privilege of buying
and selling skins, wool, hides, and other merchan-
dise, together with a free port at Belhaven, and all
the liberties and advantages which belonged to a free
burgh and harbour. The burgesses of Dunbar were
also appointed collectors of the king's customs within
the bounds of the burgh and harbour; and the boun-
dary of the burgh was declared to be the same as the
earldom of March. It was further declared by this
charter that the burgesses of Haddington should have
the privilege of trading within the burgh of Dunbar ;
hut that they should pay the customs due upon the
articles of their trade there to the collector of Dun-
bar; and that the burgesses of Dunbar should have
the privilege of trading within the bounds of the
burgh of Haddington, but should pay the custom due
upon the trade there to the collector of Haddington.
We have not ascertained when Dunbar was first
erected into a royal burgh. In the year 1469 a com-
missioner from Dunbar first appears in the rolls of
parliament ; but the liability of the burgh to general
taxations, in consequence of its admission to the
privileges of trade under the charter above referred
to, had probably entitled them to be represented in
parliament at a much earlier period. By a charter
of confirmation and de novo damns, granted to the
town by James VI., dated 23d October, 1618, it is
declared ' That the ancient old bounds of the said
burgh have been, now are, and in all time coming-
shall be the haill earldom of March and lordship of
Dunbar; as also the bounds of the baronies of Cold-
ingham, Mordingtown, Buncle, Langtovvn, Inner-
wick, and Stenton ; together with all and sundry
tolls, customs, impositions, anchorages, or other du-
ties, casualties, liberties, rents, commodities, privi-
leges, and just pertinents whatsoever due, used, and
wont, as well by sea as by land, and in the peaceable
possession of which they have been for these sundry
years bypast, and at present are.' No part of these
lands, however, appear to be conveyed to the burgh,
and the boundary here described must be that of their
exclusive privilege to trade." [Parliamentary Report
on Municipal Corporations.] — In 1577, Dunbar was
the rendezvous of the Dutch as well as of the Scottish
fishery. Tucker, in his Report, of November, 1656,
says : " The towne of Dunbarre, or village rather, is
a fisher towne, f.unous for the herring-fishing, who
are caught thereabout, and brought thither, and
afterwards made, cured, and barrelled up either for
merchandise, or sold and vended to the country-
people, who come thither farre and nearre at that
season, which is frome about the middle of August
to the latter end of September, and buy great quan-
tities of fish, which they carry away, and either spend
tb^m presently, or else salt and lay up for the winter
provision of their families. The trade here is little
except salt, which is brought hither and laid up, and
after sold for the fishing ; the people of these parts,
which are not fishermen, employing themselves in
tillage and in affairs of husbandry." In 1661 Ray
observes in his ' Itinerary:' " There is a great con-
fluence of people at Dunbar to the herring-fishery ;
and they told us, sometimes to the number of 20,000
persons."* About the period of Tucker's visit, the
port of Dunbar was greatly damaged by a violent
storm, and during the Protectorate, £'300 were
granted towards defraying the expense of erecting
a new pier towards the east. In 1 774 the harbour was
enlarged and improved; and in 1785, a new pier was
built, and various improvements executed upon the
harbour. In 1710, a custom-house was established
here, which has jurisdiction from Berwick bounds to
Gulane point. In 1752, a whale-fishery company
was established at Dunbar, which, not succeeding,
was dissolved in 1C04. In 1792, there were 16 ves-
sels belonging to the port, of a total burthen of 1 ,505
tons, and 2 Greenland ships of 675 tons. In 1830,
there were 6 vessels belonging to Dunbar engaged
in the wood and grain trade with the Baltic, and
39 in the coasting-trade. The registered vessels be-
longing to this port, in 1839, was 30, of 1,495 tons
burden in whole. Ship-building, the manufacture
of sail-cloth and cordage, and the curing of herrings
both by salt and smoke, afford employment to a con-
siderable number of hands. There are also a soap-
work, an iron-foundry, a steam-engine manufactory,
and several breweries and distilleries, in the neigh-
bourhood. A weekly corn-market is held here on
Tuesday ; and fairs, chiefly for luring single farm
and domestic servants, immediately after the terms
of Whitsunday and Martinmas. The stoppage of
the East Lothian Dank in 1822, proved a heavy dis-
couragement to trade in this quarter ; but the en-
gagements of the company have been all honourably
liquidated. The first printing-press in the county of
East Lothian was set up at Dunbar by Mr. G. Miller,
in 1795; and we believe that the Dunbar press has
the high merit of having been the first in Scotland,
from which issued a cheap periodical miscellany, in
which the instruction and entertainment of the lower
classes was professedly the principal object aimed at.f
* "The herring-fishery in the Forth commences annually
about the beginning of August, and continues nearly two
months. About the beginning of the present century the her-
rings were taken in such plenty, that they were sold at n half-
penny per dozen ; and as there was a greater quantity caught
than could be immediately cured, the refuse was absolutely
driven to manure the fields. In 1819, there were employed at
Dunbar alone, about rfSfl boats, and in them nearly 2,001) men.
The following year rhe fishery, though not so well-attended,
employed upwards of -^00 boats, which brought daily from 30
to (10 oralis each, — pnrelruni 4s. to 5s. per-cran. It is commuted
that neatly o5,000 barrels of herrings were cured here in a sea.
son. The manner in which this ti-hery was earned on, is simi-
lar to tlie plan of the old Dutch fishery, which renders it ex-
tremely beneficial to tire country. The boats belong partly to
fishermen, who employ the rest of the year in catching while
fish, and partly to landsmen, who build and equip them in the
way of adventurers. An adventure of this kind is called a
drttve, and is thus managed :— two or three fishermen associate
with five or'six landsmen,— for there are commonly eight or
nine men to a boat. Each fisherman has at least two nets of
his own; one is appointed as skipper, who lays in provisions
and other necessaries, and receives the money for what is sold.
When the season terminates, the accounts are made up, and
after discharging the expenses, what remains is divided into
eight or nine shares, or as they call them, dents. The proprie-
tor of the boat draws one deal, every fisherman half-a-deal, every
two nets half-a-deal, every landsman, who is capable of work,
ing two nets, half-a-deal. Thus ail parties are interested iu
profit and loss. In ancient times a certain quantity of herrings
were taken for the king's kitchen, which was alterwards com-
muted into a tax of 10s. up.m every sizeable boat. There was
also a duly paid to the high-admiral's deputy, who presided over
the fishery. This has fallen into desuetude; but the town ex-
acts the 1.15th fish as vicarage teind. The fishers still appoint
one of their number, whom they style aOmiral, to arrange the
order of sailing, fee. and two chancellors, to whom all disputes
are referred." — 'Milter** ' History of Dunbar,' 1HJ0, l2mo.
f Mr. Robert Chambers, iu his ' Uazetteer of Scotland,' pub-
lished in 1S30, notices the Dunbar cheap miscellany in these
terms: u One of them wiis a periodical sty led 'The Cheap Ma-
gazine,' which, though conducted on an unambitious plan, was
certainly an undertaking w 6uuni respects iu advance of tho
DUNBAR.
361
The municipal council of Dunbar consists of 20
members, including a provost, 3 bailies, and a trea-
surer. Prior to the 3° and 4° William IV., the ma-
gistrates and old council, out of a leet of 8 made by
themselves, chose 4 new councillors ; the old and
new council chose the 5 magistrates out of leets
made by themselves; and then the old and new ma-
gistrates put off such 4 of the old councillors as they
thought proper. There was no provision for any
change in the council, except the 4 annually put off;
so a majority of the council continued without elec-
tion, and there was no restriction upon re-election.
The jurisdiction of the magistrates extends over the
whole royalty, which is ill defined. There is no
dean-of-guild in Dunbar. The magistrates discharge
the duties incumbent on that officer in other burghs.
The magistrates and council have the appointment of
the town-clerk, chamberlain, superintendent of po-
lice, procurator-fiscal, burgh-schoolmasters, clerk to
the corn-market, and burgh-officers. ' They have no
other patronage. There is no guildry, and there are
no incorporated crafts possessing exclusive privileges.
The number of municipal electors, in 1839, was 130.
The property of the burgh consists of the town's
common, upon which the burgesses have a right of
pasturage, and from which no revenue is derived; of
lands, mills, and houses, fishing, sea-ware, teinds of
fish, church-seat rents, and stone-quarries. The
value put upon this property, including ±'5,000 on
the common, is ±14,500. The debt due by the town
was ±8,376 4s. 4d. at Michaelmas, 1832, and it re-
mains about that amount still. The whole revenue
of the town, of every kind, including arrears recov-
ered, received during the year ending at Michaelmas,
1832, was ±1,293 14s. 6d. ; but it appears that this
sum included the assessment for the poor and the
king's cess, neither of which form any part of the
revenue of the burgh ; these together amount to
±119 19s. 4Jd., leaving the revenue of the burgh
£1,173 15s. ljd. The income of the burgh for the
year 1788, as appears from returns made to parlia-
ment, was £668 1 7s. The total expenditure for the
year 1831-2 was £1,385 2s. 6sd. ; but this includes
±132 3s. 7d. paid for poor-rates and land-tax, a very
small part of which can have been paid on account
of the common property. This sum may therefore
be deducted from the total of £1,385 2s. fcUd., which
will leave the expenditure of the year about ±1,253.
The year 1832 may be taken as affording a fair view
of the ordinary receipts and expenditure of the town
of Dunbar. The revenue, in 1S38-9, was ±1,282
lis. 7d. The burgh of Dunbar joins with those of
Haddington, North Berwick, Lauder, and Jedburgh,
in returning a member to parliament. The bounda-
ries of the parliamentary borough include the village
of Belhaven. Parliamentary electors in 1839, 131.
The church of Dunbar is noticed in the ' Taxatio'
of Lothian in 1176, wherein, with the chapel of
Whittingbam, it is assessed in 180 merks. It was
not a collegiate charge originally, but was converted
into a collegiate form in 1342, by Patrick, 10th Earl
of Dunbar, for a dean, an arch-priest, and 18 canons.
For their support were assigned, together with the
revenues of the church at Dunbar, those of the cha-
pels of Whittingham, Spot, Stenton, Penshiel, and
Hetherwick; and in addition to these, were annexed
age. It appeared in the year 1814: afforded a considerable mass
of plain paper and print, once a-month, at fnurjience ; and was
filled with matter calculated in general to instruct (as well as
amuse) the two great classes who mostly require instruction, —
the young and the poor. Such a work, as it was rather like a
design of the present time than of that wheu it appeared, might
surely be tried again, with better hopes of success than at hi St.
1 he work at present existing, which approaches nearest to it
in character, is the ' Gaelic Messenger' of Dr. Macleod.'' Mr.
Chambers, it seems not unfair to conclude from the evidence
thus before us, was indebted to Mr. Miller's miscellany for the
idea of his own very excellent and useful weekly sheet.
the chapels of Linton in East Lothian, and Dunse
and Chirnside in Berwickshire : the founder reserv-
ing to himself and his heirs the patronage of the
whole. In 1492, the chapels of Dunbar, Pinkerton.
Spot, Belton, Pitcox, Linton, Dunse, and Chirn-
side, were appointed as prebends to the collegiate
church. Soon after this arrangement, the chapels of
Spot, Stenton, and Hetherwick, were converted into
parish-churches, yet still remained dependant as pre-
bends of the college. On the forfeiture of the earl-
dom of March in 1434-5, the patronage of the church
fell to the Crown. During the reign of James III.
it was enjoyed with the earldom of Dunbar, by the
Duke of Albany. It again reverted to the king, on
the forfeiture of his traitorous brother, in 1483, and
now belongs to the Duke of Roxburghe, as principal
heritor of the parish. The church of Dunbar ceased
to be collegiate at the Reformation in 1560. This
venerable fabric was built in the form of a cross,
measuring 123 feet in length, while it was only from
20 to 25 feet broad. The transept or cross aisle
measured 83 feet. The west end of the church, be-
yond the transept, was probably the ancient chapel
of Dunbar. The entry lay through a Saxon arch, —
" On ponderous columns, short and low,
Built ere the art was known,
By pointed aisle and shafted stalk,
The arcades of an alley'd walk,
To emulate in stone ;"
while the east end of the church, including the south
aisle of the transept, was a species of the Norman or
Gothic style. In 1779, ihe old church underwent a
thorough repair. It was ceiled in tie roof, new
floored, part of the long body cut-off by a partition,
and regularly seated. The foundation-stone of a
new church, occupying the site of the old one, was
laid on the 17th April, 1819. The work was con-
tracted for at ±4,990; but it cost about £1,000 more
before the burial-vaults and other additions were
completed. One-fifth of the expense was paid by
the town of Dunbar., and the rest by the heritors.
It is a handsome building in the Gothic style, built
with a red stone brought from a quarry near Bower-
houses, and is capable of containing 1,800 hearers.
From the steeple, which is about 90 feet high, five
counties may be distinguished. The first object
which arrests the stranger's attention on entering
Dunbar church, is a superb monument immediately
behind the pulpit, erected to the memory of George
Home, Earl of Dunbar, 3d son of Alexander Home
of Manderston. This nobleman was in great favour
with James VI., and successively held the offices of
high-treasurer of Scotland, and chancellor of the ex-
chequer in England ; and, while in the latter capa-
city, he was created a peer of his native land. It
was on him that ' the British Solomon ' chiefly de-
pended for the restoration of prelacy in Scotland ;
and at the parliament held at Perth in 1606, he had
the skill to carry through the act for the restoration
of the estate of bishops. His death took place sud-
denly at Whitehall, on the 29th January, 1611, when
he was about to solemnize his daughter's marriage
with Lord Walden in a magnificent manner. A
writer in the ' Biographia Scoticana, or Scots Worth-
ies,' imputes this circumstance to the judgment of
heaven, while Sir John Scott, in his political epitome
of slander, ascribes it to some poisoned sugar tablets
which were given him by Secretary Cecil for expell-
ing the cold. " His body," says Crawford, " oemg
embalmed, and put into a coffin of lead, was sent
down to Scotland, and with great solemnity interred
in the collegiate church of Dunbar, where his exe-
cutors erected a very noble and magnificent monu-
ment of various coloured marble, with a statue as
large as life." The monument is 12 feet broad at the
36<2
KUNBAR.
base, and 26 feet in height. Above the pedestal,
Lord Dunbar is represented, kneeling on a cushion,
in the attitude of prayer, with a Bible open before
him. He is clad in armour, which is seen under his
knight's robes, and on his left arm is the badge of
the order of the garter. Two knights in armour
stand on each side as supporters. Above the knights
in armour are two female figures, — the one represent-
ing Justice, and the other Wisdom. Betwixt these
figures, and immediately above the cupola, Fame
sounds her trumpet; while, on the opposite side,
Peace, with her olive wand, sheds a laurel wreath on
his lordship. Immediately beneath the monument is
the vault, wherein the body is deposited in a leaden
coffin.
The great object of attraction to tourists in this
neighbourhood is the magnificent ruin of Dunbar
castle, of which the following description is abridged
from Mr. Miller's carefully compiled ' History :' — It is
founded upon a reef of trap rocks, which project into
the sea, and, in many places, rise like bastions thrown
up by nature to guard these stern remains of feudal
grandeur against the power of the waves, which yet
force their way through rugged caverns and fissures
in the stone, and, with a thundering noise, wash its
dark foundations. These rocks are in some places
composed of red basaltic greenstone, and in others
of tufa; and in some places masses of indurated
sandstone appear entangled in the trap rock. [See
Cunningham's 'Geology of the Lothians,' page 97.]
The body of the buildings measures about 165
feet from east to west; and, in some places, 207
feet from north to south. The south battery —
which Grose supposes to have been the citadel or
keep— is situated on a detached perpendicular rock,
accessible only on one side, 72 feet high, and is
connected to the main part of the castle by a passage
of masonry measuring 69 feet. The interior of the
citadel measures 54 feet by 60, within the walls. Its
shape is octagonal. Five of the gun-ports remain,
which are called 'the arrow-holes.' They measure
4 feet at the mouth, and only 16 inches at the other
end. The buildings are arched, and extend 8 feet
from the outer walls, and look into an open court,
whence they derive their light. About the middle
of the fortress part of a wall remains, through which
there is a gateway surmounted with armorial bear-
ings. This gate seems to have led to the principal
apartments. In the centre are the arms of George,
11th Earl of Dunbar, who succeeded his father in
1369; and who, besides the earldom of Dunbar and
March, inherited the lordship of Annandale and the
isle of Man from his heroic mother. The towers
had communication with the sea, and dip low in
many places. North-east from the front of the
castle is a large natural cavern of black stone, sup-
posed to have formed part of the dungeon,* which,
Pennant observes, " the assistance of a little art had
rendered a secure but infernal prison." But as it has
a communication with a rocky inlet from the sea on
the west, it is more likely that it is the dark postern
through which Sir Alexander Ramsay and his brave
followers entered with a supply of provisions to the
* Gavin Douglas, Bishop of DtinkeM, probably conceived bis
dr-i-riptioii of the allegorical poem of King Hart's Castle, when
a prisoner in this dreary plare in 1515: —
" So strong this king him thoeht his castel stude,
Willi mony toure and tnrrat crnunit hie;
About the wall there ran ane water voud,
lilak, stinkand, sour, and salt as is the sey ■
That on the wallis wiskit, gre by gre,
Holding to ryis the castell to confound :
Iiot thai within maid sa grit melodie,
That for thair reird thai mieht not heir the Pound."
Note hy Mr. Miller.
Mr. J. Mason has lately published a very exact plan of Dunbar
castle and the rucka in the bay.
besieged in 1338. It was a place also well suited tor
securing the boats belonging to the garrison. The
castle is built with a red stone similar to what is
found in the quarries of the neighbourhood. Part
of the foundation of a fort, which was begun in
1559, for the purpose of accommodating a French
garrison, may be traced, extending 136 feet in front
of the castle. This building was. however, inter-
rupted in its progress, and demolished by act of par-
liament. In the north-west part of the ruins is an
apartment about 12 feet square, and nearly inacces-
sible, which tradition denominates the apartment of
Queen Mary.
The time of the erection of Dunbar castle cannot
be precisely ascertained, but it was evidently built at
a very early period of the Christian era. Cospatrick,
the father of the noble family of Dunbar, was the
son of Maldred, the son of Crinan by Algatha,
daughter and heiress of Uthred. prince of Northum-
berland. After the conquest of England by William
the Norman in 1066, Cospatrick and Merleswain,
with other nobles of the north of England, fled to
Scotland, carrying with them Edgar Atheling, the
heir of the Saxon line, and his mother Algatha, with
his sisters Margaret atid Christina. Malcolm Can-
more, who married the Princess Margaret [see ar-
ticle Dunfermline], bestowed on Cospatrick the
manor of Dunbar, and many fair lands in the Merse
and Lothian. Cospatrick having signalized himself
in an expedition against a formidable banditti which
infested the south-east borders of Scotland, was cre-
ated Earl of the Merse, or March ; and the lands of
Cockburnspath were bestowed on him by the singu-
lar tenure of clearing East Lothian and the Merse of
robbers Cospatrick, 2d son to the foregoing, suc-
ceeded his father in his Scottish property, and died
in 1 147, leaving four sons Cospatrick, 3d Earl of
Dunbar, had two sons, — Waldeve, his successor, and
Patrick, who inherited the manor of Greenlaw, and
was ancestor of the Earls of Home Waldeve, 4th
Earl of Dunbar, succeeded his father in 1166, and
died in 1182 To him succeeded Patrick, 5th Earl
of Dunbar, on whom William I., in 1184, bestowed
Ada, one of his natural daughters, in marriage.
About the end of the 1 2th century, he held the of-
fices of justiciary of Lothian and keeper of Berwick.
In 1214, to retaliate the inroads made by Alexander
into England, Henry III. invaded Scotland with a
powerful army, and took the town and castle of Ber-
wick. His next attempt was on the fortress of Dun.
bar ; but finding it impregnable, he laid waste the
country to the walls of Haddington, and returned
homewards. In 1218, Earl Patrick founded a monas-
tery of Red Friars in Dunbar. In 1231, when this
munificent nobleman was stricken in years, with a
view to part with the world in good fellowship, he
invited his children, relations, and neighbours, to
spend the festivities of Christmas at his castle of
Dunbar. On the expiry of four days, he sent for his
relation the abbot of Melrose ; and, having bade his
guests and the world a last adieu, received extreme
unction agreeably to the forms of the Romish church,
after which he assumed the monastic habit. This
venerable person died in 1232, and was buried in the
convent church of Eccles, which his grandfather had
founded Patrick, 6th Earl of Dunbar, succeeded
his father at the age of 46. In 1242, at a royal tour-
nament held at Haddington, the young Earl of Athol
overthrew Walter, the chief of the family of the
Bissets. To revenge this affront, the lodgings of
the Earl were set on fire the same night, and Athol,
with several of his friends, was either slain or burnt
to death. The king endeavoured in vain to bring
the perpetrators of this atrocious assault to trial ;
but the combination of the Cuinmyns and other
DUNBAR.
363
nobles against the Bissets was so strong that the
latter were obliged to abandon their country. On
this occasion, the Earl of Dunbar — whom Lord
Hailes calls the most powerful baron of the southern
districts — put himself at the head of the nobles who
demanded retribution. The Earl of Dunbar held
the first rank among the 24 barons who guaranteed
the treaty of peace with England in 1244. He died
in 1248, at the siege of Damiettain Egypt Patrick,
7th Earl of Dunbar, during the turbulent minority
of Alexander III., was one of the chiefs of the Eng-
lish faction. Thomas Lermont of Ersildoun, com-
monly called the Rhymer, visited Dunbar in 1285,
and foretold to the Earl the sudden death of Alex-
ander III., who was killed by a fall from his horse
on the sands of Kinghorn. We are circumstantially
informed by Bower — who was born at Haddington
100 years after — that, on the night preceding the
king's death, Thomas, having arrived at the castle
of Dunbar, was interrogated by the Earl, in the
jocular manner be was wont to assume with the
prophet, if to-morrow should produce any remark-
able event; to which the bard replied, in the mystical
language of prophecy : " Alas for to-morrow, a day of
calamity and misery ! Before the 12th hour, shall
be heard a blast so vehement that it shall exceed
those of every former period, — a blast which shall
strike the nations with amazement, — shall humble
what is proud, and what is fierce shall level with
the ground ! The sorest wind and tempest that ever
was heard of in Scotland!" After this prediction,
which was left to be fulfilled either by aecident or
the weather, Thomas retired. Next day, the Earl
and his companions having continued in watch till
the ninth hour, without discovering any unusual
appearance in the elements, began to doubt the pre-
sent powers of the soothsayer, to whom " the sun-
set of life had given mystical lore," and having or-
dered him into their presence, upbraided him as an
impostor, and hastened to enjoy their wonted repast.
But his lordship had scarcely placed himself at table,
and the shadow of the dial fallen on the hour of noon,
when an express, covered with foam, appeared at the
castle-gate, -demanding an audience. On being in-
terrogated, he exclaimed : " I do indeed bring news,
but of a lamentable kind, to be deplored by the whole
realm of Scotland! Alas, our renowned king has
ended his fair life at Kinghorn!" " This," cried the
prophet, gathering himself up in the spirit of con-
scious veracity, " this is the scaithful wind and dread-
ful tempest which shall blow such a calamity and
trouble to the whole state of the whole realm of
Scotland !"
Patrick, 8th Earl of Dunbar and March — sur-
named Black Beard — succeeded to the honours and
possessions of his father in 12S9. He appeared at
the pariiament at Brigham in 1289, where he is
called Comes de Marchia, being the first of the Earls
of Dunbar designated by that title. When, in 1296,
Edward, with a powerful army, entered Scotland, the
Earl of Dunbar, with the Bruces and their adher-
ents, took part against their country ; but Dimbar's
heroic Countess got possession of the castleof Dunbar,
and delivered it to the leaders of the Scottish army.
Edward despatched the Earl of Warrenne with
12,000 men to lay siege to Dunbar, which was de-
fended by the dower of the Scottish nobility. The
Scots, sensible of the importance of this fortress,
which, if taken, laid their country open to the
enemy, hastened with their main army of 40,000
men, under the command of the Earls of Buchan,
Lennox, and Mar, to its relief. Warrenne, un-
daunted by the superior numbers of the Scots, left
part of his army to blockade the castle, while he
advanced to meet them. The English had to de-
scend into a valley — probably Oswaldean, a glen near
Spot — before they could reach the Scots; and as
they descended, the Scots observing or imagining they
saw some confusion in their ranks, set up a loud shout
of exultation, and causing their horns to be sounded,
rushed down from their well-chosen position. But
when Warrenne emerged from the glen, and advanced
undismayed against their formidable front, the undis-
ciplined troops, after a very brief resistance, fled be-
fore him, and were pursued with great slaughter as
far as Selkirk forest. Next day, Edward, with the
main body of the English army, reached Dunbar, and
compelled the garrison to surrender. "When the he-
roic Wallace first undertook to deliver his country
from her abject bondage, the Earl of Dunbar refused
to attend a meeting of the estates at St. Johnston :
" Lichtly he leuch, in scorn as it had been,
And said he had sic message seldom seen,
That Wallace now as governor sail ryng,
.Here is gret fante of a gude prince or king
That king of Kyll I can nocht understand,
Of him 1 held never a fur of land ;
That Bacliiller Trowis, for fortonn schawis her quhell,
Tharwith to lest, it sail nocht lang be Weill:
Bot to you lords, and ye will understand,
I make you wyss, I aw to raak na baud,
AIs fre, I am in this regioun to ryng
Li>rd of mine awne, as ever was prince or king;
In Ingland als gret part of land I half,
Ma rent tluurof thair will no man me craif,
What will you mair, I warn you I am free,
For your siimmouuds ye get na mair of me.11
Henry's Wallace, Book VII.
The patriot-hero, with 200 men, went in pursuit
of the haughty baron. Wallace was joined by Ro-
bert Lauder at Musselburgh, and afterwards by
Crystal of Seton. They were met at Linton by
Squire Lyle, who informed them that the Earl had
made his gathering at Coekburnspath, and was on
his march to Dunbar. Lauder upon this woidd have
pressed forward ; but Wallace is represented bv the
old ' Makhar,' already quoted, as calmly replying to
the remonstrances of his comrade,
*■ We may at laysar ride.
With yone power he thinkis barganp to bide :
And of a thing ye sail Weill uoder>tand
A hardier lord is nocht into Scotland ;
Micht he be made trew sredfast till a king,
Be wit and force he can do meikill thing;
Bot wilfully he likis to tyne himsell."
Wallace encountered Pat rick in afield near Innerwick,
where the latter had assembled 900 of his vassals, and
with half that number compelled the Earl, after a ter-
rible conflict, to retreat to Coekburnspath, while he fell
back on Dunbar; but finding the castle without pro-
visions, and the garrison wede away with their lord,
he gave it in charge to Crystal of Seton. In the
meantime the Earl of Dunbar had gone to Northum-
berland to solicit the aid of the bishop of Durham ;
but his ostensible reason, says * The Minstrel,' was
"to bring the Bruce free till his land." Vessels
were immediately sent from the Northumbrian Tyne
to blockade Dunbar, and cut off supplies, while the
Earl, with 20,000 men, hastened to retake his for-
tress. In the interim the champion of Scotland had
repaired to the west in quest of succour, and return-
ing by Tester, was joined by Hay and a chosen body
of cavalry. With 5,000 men he marched to the sup-
port of Seton, while the Bishop of Durham, who had
remained at Norham with Bruce, came to the assist-
ance of Dunbar, and riding through Lammermoor,
threw himself into an ambush near Spott-moor.
By this unexpected movement, Wallace was com-
pletely hemmed in, when Seton fortunately came to
his relief. The two armies closed in mortal strife.
The Scots pushed on so furiously against the South-
rons, that they were just about to fly, but Patrick wa3
" Sa cruell of intent,
That all his host tuk of him hardiment;
Throucli hie awne hand he put mony to pain."
.064
DUNBAR.
The desperate valour of the Wallaces, the Ramsays,
and the Grahams, was of little avail against the su-
perior force of the English ; so that when the am-
buscade of Bishop Beck appeared, they were on the
point of retiring. Dunbar singled out Wallace amidst
the throng, and
*- Hereat the plait with his seharp eroundyn claiff
Throuch all tiie stuff, and wouudit him sum deill."
The hero returning the blow with sevenfold ven-
geance, clove down Maitland, who had thrown him-
self betwixt the two adversaries. Wallace's horse
was killed beneath him, and he was now on foot
dealing destruction to his enemies, when
" Erie Patrick than, that had gret craft in war,
With spears ordaud guid Wallace doun to bear j"
but 500 resolute warriors rescued their champion,
and the war-worn armies were glad to retire. The
same night Wallace traversed Lammermoor in quest
of the retreating host, while Bishop Beck, Earl Pat-
rick, and Bruce, fled to Norham. On his return, the
champion, still mindful of the odium attached to his
name by the Earl of Dunbar, —
*' Passit, with moiiy awfnll men,
On Patrickis land, and waistit wonder fast,
Tuk out guids, and places doun thai cast;
His steads, sevin, that Mete Hamys was call'd,
Wallace gert break the burly Diggings bauld,
Baith in the Merse, and als in Loth i an e,
Except Dunbar, standand he leavit uane. "
In 1309 this wavering Earl died, leaving by his wife,
Marjory Cumyn, daughter of Alexander, Earl of
Buchan, one son. Edward, after seeing his army
annihilated at Bannockburn, fled with a body of horse
towards Berwick ; but Sir James Douglas, with 80
chosen horsemen, so pressed on the royal fugitive,
that he was glad to shelter himself in the castle of
Dunbar. Here he was received by Patrick, 9th Earl,
■ full gently ;' after which, by means of a fishing-boat,
he coasted along the shore till he reached the towers
of Bambrough. " This was honourable," observes a
distinguished writer, "because Patrick must have
had in his thoughts at that time the making his peace
with his native monarch, and could not be ignorant
how easily and advantageously he might have done
so, by detaining in custody the person of the King
of England." After this, the Earl of Dunbar made
peace with his cousin, Robert I., and was present
at Ayr on the 26th April, 1315, when the succession
to the Crown of Scotland was settled on Bruce.
After the defeat at Halidon-hill, however, and before
Edward left Berwick, he received the fealty of the
Earl of Dunbar with several others of the nobility ;
and the castle of Dunbar, which had been dismantled
and razed to the ground on the approach of the Eng-
lish, was now rebuilt at the Earl's own expense, for
the purpose of maintaining an English garrison. The
Earl attended the parliament held at Edinburgh in
February, 1334, when Baliol ceded Berwick, Dun-
bar, Roxburgh, and Edinburgh, and all the south-
east counties of Scotland, to be annexed for ever to
the English domains ; but thereafter retired into the
Highlands to join the friends of Bruce. In January,
1337, William Montague, Earl of Salisbury, together
with the Earl of Arundel, to whom the King had
left the chief command of the forces in Scotland,
attempted to take the castle of Dunbar with a large
army. At this important crisis the Earl was in the
North ; so that the defence of his stronghold de-
volved upon his Countess, a lady who, from the
darkness of her complexion, was commonly called
Black Agnes. She was daughter to the celebrated
Thomas Randolph, Earl of Moray. During the
siege, Agnes performed all the duties of a bold and
vigilant commander. When the battering engines
of the English hurled stones or leaden balls against
the battlements, she, in scorn, ordered one of her
maids to wipe off with a clean white handkercliiea
the marks of the stroke; and svhen the Earl of Sal-
isbury, with vast labour, brought his sow close to
the walls, the Countess exclaimed :
" Beware, Montaffow,
For farrow shall thy sow !"
Whereupon a large fragment of the rock was hurled
from the battlements, and crushed the sow to pieces,
with all the poor little pigs — as Major calls them —
who were lurking under it. We shall here present
our readers with Winton's rhyming account of this
memorable siege : — .
Of the assipge of Dunbcre,
Where the Countess was wise and ware.
Schyre William Montague, that sua
Had tane the siege, in hy gret ma
A niekil and richt stalwart engine,
And up smertly gert dress it; syne
They warpit at the wall great stanes
Baith hard and heavy for the nanys,
lint that nane merrying to them made,
And alsua when they eastyne had,
With a towel, a damisetie
Arrayed jnllily and well,
Wippit the wall, that they micht see
To gere them mair annoyed be ;
Tit ere at the siege well lan'g they lay,
But there little vantage got they ;
For when they bykkyn'e wald, or assail,
They tint the maist of their travaile.
And as they bykeryd there a' day,
Of a great shot I shall y6u say,
For that they had of itferly.
It here to yon rehearse will I
William of Spens percit a Blasowne,
And thro' three faiilds of A wbyvclmwne,
And the Aetowne through the third ply
And the arrow in the bodie,
While of that dynt there dead he lay;
And then the Montagu gan say j
" This is ane of my Lady's pinnis,
Her amonris thus, till my heart minis."
While that the siege was there on this wise
Men sayis there felt sai'r jtinerdyis.
For Lawrence of Prestnun, that then
Hnldin ane of the wichtest men,
That was in all Scotland that tide,
A rout of luglismen saw ride,
That .seemed gude men and worthy,
And were arrayed right richly j
He, with als few folk, as they were,
On them assembled he there;
But at the assembling, he was there
Intil the mouth stricken with a spear,
While it up in the harnys ran ;
Till a dike he withdrew him than,
And died ; for uae mair live he might.
His men his death perceived n Audit*
And with their faes faucht stoutly,
While they them vanquished utterly.
Thus was this guid man brought till end,
That was richt greatly to commend.
Of gret wirsehipe and gret bowute
His saul be aye in sal tie.
Sir William als of (lalstown
Of Keith, that was of gude renown,
Met Richard Talbot by the way
And set him to sa hard assay,
That to a kirk he gert him gap,
And close there defence to ma;
But he assailed there sa fast,
That him be-hov'd treat at the last,
And twa thousand pound to pay,
And left hostage and went bis way.
The Montagu was yet lyand,
Singing Dunbare with stalwart hand ;
And twa gallies of Genoa hud he,
For till assiege it by the sea.
And as he thus assiegend lay,
He was set intil hard assay ;
Fur he had purchased him eovyn
Of ane of them, that were therein,
That he should leave open the yete,
And certain term till him tnett set
To come; but they therein halily
Were warnit of it privily.
He came, and the yete open fand,
And wald have gane in loot stepp and, ;
But John of Cowpland, that was theu
But a right poor simple man,
Shot bim oft back, and in is gane,
The portcullis came down on ane ;
And spared MontagUj thereout
They eryed with a sturdy shout,
" A Montagu U>r ever mair!"
Then with the lolk that he had there.
DUNBAR.
3(55
He turned to Iiis Herbpry,
And let linn japy t full\ ly.
Syne Alexander, the Kamsay,
That trowed and thought, that they
That were assieged in Dunbar,
At great distress or mischief were ;
That in an evening frae the Bass,
With a few folk, that with him was,
Toward Dunbar, i n til a boat,
He held all privily his gate;
And by the gallics all slyly
He gat with his company ;
The lady, and all, that were there.
Of his coming well comfort were,
He issued in the morning in hy,
And with the wachis sturdily,
Made aoe apart and stout melle,
And but tynsel entered hp.
While Montagu was therp lyand,
The King Edward of England
Purchased him help and alyawns.
For he wald amowe were in France ;
And for the Montagu he sends ;
For he rowth nae thing till end
For owtyn him, for that time he
Was mai;t of his counsel privie
When he had heard the king's bidding
He removed, but mair dwelling,
When he, I trow, had lying there
A quarter of a year and mair.
Of this assieg* in their hethyng
The English oy-id to make harping
" 1 vow to God, she makes gret stere
The Scottish wenche ploddere,
Come I aire, come I late,
I faud Anoot at the yate.*1
Wvntownis Chonvkili., Book viii. cap. 33.
Amongst the nobles who fell in the field of Durham,
in 1346, was Thomas, Earl of Moray, brother to the
heroic Countess of Dunbar. As he had no male issue,
Agnes became sole possessor of his vast estates ;
and her husband assumed the additional title of Earl
of Moray. Besides the earldom of Moray, the Earl
of Dunbar and his Countess obtained the isle of
Man, the lordship of Annandale, the baronies of
Morton and Tibbers in Nithsdale, of Morthingtoun
and Longformacus, and the manor of Dunse in Ber-
wickshire ; with Mochrum in Galloway, Cumnock
in Ayrshire, and Blantyre in Clydesdale George,
the 1st of that name, and 10th Earl of Dunbar and
March, succeeded his father in 1369. From the vast
possessions he inherited, he became one of the most
powerful nobles of Southern Scotland, and the rival
of the Douglasses. His daughter, Elisabeth, was
betrothed to David, son and heir to Robert III., and
on the faith of the prince, whohad given a bond to per-
form the espousals, the earl had advanced a consider-
able portion of his daughter's matrimonial settle-
ment ; but Archibald, Earl of Douglas — sumamed
the Grim — jealous of the advantages which this mar-
riage promised to bestow on a family whose pre-
eminence in the state already rivalled his own, pro-
tested against the alliance, and hy his intrigues at
court, through the influence of the Duke of Albany,
had the contract between the Duke of Rothesay and
Lady Elizabeth Dunbar cancelled, and his own
daughter substituted in her place. Stung by this
gross insult, Earl George retired into England, where
If enry IV. granted him a pension of .£400 during the
continuance of the war with Scotland, on condition
that he provided 12 men-at-arms, and 20 archers
with horses, to serve against Robert. In 1398, in
conjunction with Hotspur, and Lord Talbot, March
entered Scotland and fearfully devastated the lands,
which he could no longer call his own, as far as
Hailes castle on the Tyne. After the battle of
Halidon in 1402, Henry addressed congratulary let-
ters to the Earl of Dunbar, the Percies, and others.
At last, through the mediation of Walter Halybur-
ton of Dirleton, a reconciliation with the Douglasses
was effected in 1408; Douglas consenting to Dun-
bar's restoration, on condition that he obtained the
castle of Lochmaben, and the lordship of Annandale,
in lieu of the castle of Dunbar and earldom of March,
which he then possessed. A contagious fever closed
the life of George, Earl of Dunbar, at the advanced
age of 82. By Christian, daughter of Sir William
Seton of Seton, he had six sons and two daughters.
George, 11th Earl of Dunbar and March, succeeded
his father, at the mature age of 50. In 1435, the Earl,
and his son Patrick, visited England. The motive of
this visit to the English court is not known ; but the
slumbering jealousies of James I. — who had already
struck a blow at the power of the barons — were
easily awakened; and he formed the bold plan of
seizing the estates and fortresses of a family which
for ages had been the most powerful and opulent
on the Scottish borders. The Earl of Dunbar was
arrested and imprisoned in the castle of Edinburgh,
while the Earl of Angus, Chancellor Crichton, and
Adam Hepburn of Hailes, were despatched with
letters to the keeper of the castle of Dunbar, who
immediately surrendered it to the King's authority,
and Hepburn was left constable of this important
fortress. In a parliament assembled at Perth, on
the 10th January, 1434-5, George was accused of
holding his earldom and estates, which had been
forfeited by his father's tergiversation. " In vain
did he plead," says Robert Douglas, "that his fa-
ther had been pardoned and restored by Albany;"
it was answered, " that a forfeiture incurred for trea-
son could not be pardoned by a regent ;" and the
parliament, in compliance with this reasoning, having
heard Sir George Dunbar, on his part, adjudged,
"that, in consequence of the attainder of George de
Dunbar, formerly Earl of March and Lord of Dun-
bar, every right both of property and possession in
all and each of those estates in the earldom of
March and lordship of Dunbar, and all other lands
which he held of our said lord the King, with all
and each of their appurtenances, did and does ex-
clusively belong and appertain to our lord the King."
Thus the earldom and estates of Dunbar were vested
in the Crown. The lordship of Dunbar was be-
stowed by James II. on his 2d son, Alexander,
Duke of Albany, then in his infancy. " Against this
measure," says Mr. Ty tier, " which in a moment re-
duced one of the most powerful subjects in the realm
to the condition of a landless dependent upon the
charity of the Crown, it does not appear that the
Earl, or his friends, dared to offer any remonstrance
or resistance. They probably knew it would be in-
effectual, and might bring upon them still more fatal
consequences; and James proceeded to complete his
plan for the security of the kingdom, by taking pos-
session of the forfeited estate, and delivering the
keeping of the castle of Dunbar, which he had seized
in the preceding year, to Sir Walter Halliburton ot
Dirlton. He then, to soften in some degree the
severity of his conduct, conferred upon March the
title of Earl of Buchan, and assigned to him, out o.
the revenues of that northern principality, an annual
pension of four hundred marks. That noble person,
however, full of resentment for the cruelty with
which he had been treated, disdained to assume a
title which he regarded as only a mark of his degra-
gation, and almost immediately after the judgment
bade adieu to his country, and, in company with his
eldest son, retired to England. Although this ex-
traordinary proceeding appears not to have occasioned
any open symptoms of dissatisfaction at the moment,
it is impossible to conceive that it should not have
roused the jealousy and alarmed the minds of the
great body of the feudal nobility. It cannot perhaps
be pronounced strictly unjust, yet there was a harsh-
ness, it may almost be said, a tyranny, in the manner
in which such princely estates were torn from the
family, after they had been possessed for twenty- six
years, without challenge or remonstrance."
366
DUNBAR.
In 1484, the castle of Dunbar was in the hands of
the English. On the marriage of Margaret of England
with the King of Scotland in 1502, the earldom of
Dunbar and lordship of Cockburnspath, with their de-
pendencies, were assigned as the jointure of the
young Queen ; but the castle of Dunbar is expressly
mentioned as being reserved by the King to himself.
In 1515, Dunbar was garrisoned with French sol-
diers. In December 1527, when James V. laid siege
to the neighbouring castle of Tantallon, then the
stronghold of Douglas, he "gart send to the castle
of Dunbar," says Lindsay of Pitscottie, "to Cap-
tain Morrice, to borrow some artillery, and laid great
pledges for the same ; because the castle was then in
the Duke of Albany's hand, and the artillery thereof
his own." The English, in the inroad under the
Earl of Hertford, in 1544, after their return from the
siege of Leith, and after burning Haddington, en-
camped the second night — 26th May — near Dunbar.
" The same day," says Patten, " we burnt a fine town
of the Earl Both well's, called Haddington, with a great
nunnery and a house of friars. The next night after,
we encamped besides Dunbar; and there the Scots
gave a small alarm to our camp. But our watches were
in such readiness that they had no vantage there, but
were fain to recoil without doing of any harm. That
night they looked for us to have burnt the town of
Dunbar, which we deferred till the morning at the
dislodging of our camp, which we executed by V. C.
of our hakbutters, being backed with V. C. horse-
men. And by reason we took them in the morning,
who having watched all night for our coming, and
perceiving our army to dislodge and depart, thought
themselves safe of us, were newly gone to their
beds ; and in their first sleeps closed in with fire,
men, women, and children, were suffocated and
burnt. That morning being very misty and foggy,
we had perfect knowledge by our espials, that the
Scots had assembled a great power at a strait called
the Pease." [Expedicion under the Erie of Hert-
ford.]— In 1547, the Duke of Somerset invaded Scot-
land with an army of 14,000 men : and, having
crossed the pass of Pease, with " puffying and
payne," as Patten says, demolished the castles of
Dunglass, Innerwick, and Thornton. " This done,
about noon, we marched on, passing soon after with-
in the gunshot of Dunbar, a town standing longwise
upon the sea-side, whereat is a castle — which the
Scots count very strong — that sent us divers shots
as we passed, but all in vain : their horsemen shewed
themselves in their fields beside us, towards whom
Bartevil with his viii. [c] men, all hakbutters on
horseback — whom he had right well appointed — and
John de Rybaud, with divers others, did make ; but
no hurt on either side, saving that a man of Bartevile's
slew one of them with his piece, the skirmish was
soon ended. We went a iiii. mile farther, and hav-
ing travelled that day a x. mile, we camped nigh
Tentallon, and had at night a blind alarm. Here
had we first advertisement certain, that the Scots
were assembled in camp at the place where we
found them. Marching this morning a ii. mile, we
came to a fair river called Lyn, (Tyne,) running all
straight eastward toward the sea ; over this river is
there a stone bridge that they name Linton bridge,
of a town thereby on our right hand, and eastward
as we went, that stands upon the same river. Our
horsemen and carriages passed through the water —
for it was not very deep — our footmen over the
bridge. The passage was very strait for an army,
and therefore the longer in setting over. Beyond
this bridge about a mile westward — for so methouglit
as then we turned — upon the same river on the
southside, stands a proper house, and of some
strength, belike, they call it Hayles castle, and pcr-
taineth to the Earl of Bothwell, but kept as then
by the governor's appointment, who held the Earl
in prison." — After the defeat at Pinkey in 1548,
Dunbar was burnt by the German mercenaries under
the Earl of Shrewsbury, on his return to England
from the attack on Haddington.
On the assassination of Rizzio, Mary left Edin-
burgh, at midnight, in company with Darnley, and
proceeded to the palace of Seton, whence she pur-
sued her journey to the safer retreat of the castle of
Dunbar. Having thus seduced the king to abandon
his party, the queen's next step was to avenge the
murder of her favourite. A proclamation was accord-
ingly issued from Dunbar, on the 16th March, 1565,
calling on the inhabitants of the sheriffdom of Edin-
burgh in the constabulary of Haddington, Linlith-
gow, Stirling, Lanark, Roxburgh, Selkirk, Peebles,
Berwick, Lauder, &c. to meet her at Haddington,
on Sunday the 17th current, with eight days provi-
sions. Sir James Melville, one of the gentlemen
of her chamber at Haddington, says that she com-
plained bitterly of Darnley's conduct in the late as-
sassination; and from that day forward never met
him with a smile. " On the 19th of April, in par-
liament, the queen taking regard and consideration
of the great and manifold good service done and per-
formed, not only to her Highness's honour, weill,
and estimation, but also to the commonweill of her
realm and lieges thereof, by James, Earl Bothwell;
and that, through his great service foresaid, he not
only frequently put his person in peril and danger of
his life, but also super-expended himself, alienated
and mortgaged his livings, lands, and heritage, in
exorbitant sums, whereof he is not hastily able to
recover the same, and that he, his friends and kins-
men, for the most part, dwell next adjacent to her
Highness's castle of Dunbar, and that he is most
habile to have the captaincy and keeping thereof, and
that it is necessarily required that the same should
be well entertained, maintained, and furnished, which
cannot be done without some yearly rent, and profit
given to him for that effect, and also for reward of
his said service: Therefore, her Majesty infefted
him and his heirs-male in the office of the captaincy
keeping of the castle of Dunbar, and also in the
crown lands of Easter and Wester Barns, the lands
of Newtonleyes, Waldane, Rig, and Fluris, Myre-
side, with the links and coning-yairs, (warrens,) &c.
the mill, called Brand's-smyth, West Barnes mill,
with their lands, and .£10 of annual rent from the
lands of Lochend, with all the lands, privileges, and
fees belonging to the government of the castle, lying
in the constabulary of Haddington, and sheriffdom
of Edinburgh, holding of her Highness and her suc-
cessors." On the 21st April, Mary went to Stir-
ling, to visit her son; and, on her return on the
24th, Bothwell, with an armed party of 800 men,
met her at Cramond bridge, and taking her horse by
the bridle, he conveyed her "full gently" to the
castle of Dunbar. The Earl of Huntly, Secretary
Maitland, and Sir James Melville, were taken cap-
tives with the queen, while the rest of her servants
were allowed to depart. Sir James Melville informs
us, that next day, when in Dunbar, he obtained per-
mission to go home. " There," continues he, " the
Earl of Bothwell boasted he would marry the queen
who would or who would not; yea, whether she
would herself or not." Captain Blackater, who had
taken him, alleged, that it was with the queen's own
consent. Crawford justly observes: " The friendly
love was so highly contrasted betwixt this great
princess and her enormous subject, that there was
no end thereof, so that she suffered patiently to be
led where the lover list, and neither made obstacle,
impediment, clamour, or resistance, as in such aeci-
DUNBAR.
36;
flent used to be, which she might have done by her
princely authority." " They had scarcely remained
ten days in the castle of Dunbar," says Buchanan,
" with no great distance between the queen's cham-
ber and Bothwell's, when they thought it expedient
to return to the castle of Edinburgh."
The nuptials of Mary and Bothwell, which were
celebrated on the 15th of May, 1567, excited the
indignation both of the nation and of foreign courts,
and a confederacy of nobles met at Stirling, levied
troops, and prepared to march against the murderer
of their king. The regicide fled with Mary to Borth-
wick castle, and when Lord Home environed the
castle, effected his escape, while the queen, disguised
as a page, followed him to Dunbar. [See article
Borthwick.] In afew days after the queen's arrival
at Dunbar, 4,000 men had flocked to her standard.
Confiding in her numbers, Mary left Dunbar with
Bothwell on the 14th June, with 200 hakbutters,
the flower of her forces, and some field-pieces from
the castle; and lodged the first night at Seton. This
news having reached the associated lords, they left
Edinburgh early next morning, (Sunday,) and met
the queen's forces at Carberry-hill, near Mussel-
burgh. Here Bothwell a second time threw the
gauntlet down to his accusers; but after the chal-
lenge had been for the second time accepted, he re-
fused to fight. The confederates " conquered, ere
a sword was drawn;" and the poor queen surren-
dered herself to the laird of Grange, whilst the guilty
Bothwell retraced his steps to Dunbar, On the
26th June, the lords of council ordained " letters to
be directed in the queen's name, to heralds, &c. to
pass and charge the keeper of the castle of Dunbar,
to surrender the same to the executor of the said
letters in six hours; because the Earl of Bothwell
was reset and received within the said castle. Both-
well, afraid that he might be environed in Dunbar,
fled by sea to Orkney. On the 21st September,
1567, four companies of soldiers, under Captains
Cunyngham, Blurry, Melvil, and Haliburton, were
sent to take Dunbar, which surrendered to the re-
gent on the 1st of October. On the meeting of
parliament, December 1567, the castle of Dunbar,
which had been so often the asylum of the unfortu-
nate and the guilty, was ordered to be destroyed.
In act 35. pari. 1. James VI. we find the following
item: " Forsamekle as thair hes bene of befoir divers
large and sumptcous expensis maid be our soverane
lordis predecessouris and himself in keiping, fortify-
ing, and reparatioun of the castell of Dunbar and
forth of Inchekeith, quhilkis ar baith unprofitabill
to the realme, and not abill to defend the enemeis
thairof, in cais the samin were assaultit: and now
seeing that the said castell and forth ar baith be-
cumin sa ruinous, that the samin sail allutterlie
decay, except thair be sic expensis maid thairupon
as is unhabill to be performit without greit inconve-
niences; and alswa havand consideration of ane aet
of parliament maid in umquhile our soverane lordis
grandschiris tyme, King James the Feird, of maist
worthie memorie, ordinand the said castell of Dun-
bar to be demolischit and cassin downe, as in the
act maid thairupon at mair lenth is contenit, quhilk
act as zit is not abrogat. Therefore our soverane
lord, with avise and consent of my lord regent, and
the estatis of this present parliament, hes ordainit,
and ordainis, That the castell of Dunbar and forth
of Inchekeith be demolischit and cassin down utter-
lie to the ground, and distroyit in sic wyse that na
foundment thairof be occasioun to big thairupon in
tyme cumming." In 1581, among several grants
excepted by James VI. from the general revocation
of his deeds of gift made through importunity, men-
tion is made of the "forthe of Dunbar granted to
William Boncle, burgess of Dunbar." This, proba-
bly, referred to the site of the fortress, and perhaps
some ground adjacent.
In 1650, Cromwell, at the head of 16,000 men,
entered Scotland; and, after some marching and
countermarching, engaged the Scotch army under
General Leslie, in the neighbourhood of Dunbar.
Leslie's position on Doon-hill was admirable, and his
force was nearly double that of his opponent ; but
rashly quitting his position, and descending into the
plain, they exposed themselves to a fatal charge from
Cromwell's van-brigade, which threw them into
confusion, and decided the fortune of the day in a
brief space. There is extant a letter from Cromwell
himself to Lenthal, the speaker, giving a very fair
though enthusiastic account of this memorable en-
gagement. He says : " We having tryed what we
could to engage the enemy 3 or 4 miles west of
Edinburgh ; that proving ineffectual, and our victual
failing, we marched towards our ships for a recruit
of our wants. The enemy did not at all trouble us
in our rear, but marched the direct way towards
Edinburgh, and partly in the night and morning, slips
through his whole army, and quarters himself in a
posture easie to . enterpose between us and our
victual; but the Lord made him lose the oppor-
tunity ; and the morning proving exceeding wet
and dark, we recovered, by that time it was light,
into a ground where they could not hinder us from
our victual ; which was a high act of the Lord's
providence to us. We being come into the said
ground, the enemy marched into the ground we
were last upon ; having no mind either to strive
or to interpose between us and our victual, or to
fight ; being indeed upon this lock, hoping that the
sickness of your army would render their work
more easie by the gaining of time ; whereupon we
marched to Muscleburgh to victual and to ship
away our sick men, where we sent aboard near 500
sick and wounded soldiers : and upon serious consi-
deration, finding our weakness so to increase, and
the enemy lying upon his advantages, at a general
councel it was thought fit to march to Dunbar, and
there to fortifie the town, which, we thought, if any
thing, would provoke them to engage ; as also, the
having a garrison there, would furnish us with ac-
commodation for our sick men ; would be a place for
a good magazin, (which we exceedingly wanted),
being put to depend upon the uncertainty of wea-
ther for landing provisions, which many times can-
not be done, though the being of the whole army-
lay upon it ; all the coasts from Leith to Berwick
not having one good harbour ; as also to lie more
conveniently to receive our recruits of horse and
foot from Berwick. Having these considerations,
upon Saturday, the 30th of August, we marched
from Muscleburgh to Haddington, where, by that
time, we had got the van-brigade of our horse,
and our foot and train, into their quarters ; the
enemy was marched with that exceeding expedi-
tion, that they fell upon the rear-forlorn of our
horse, and put it in some disorder ; and indeed had
like to have engaged our rear-brigade of horse with
their whole army, had not the Lord, by his provi-
dence* put a cloud over the moon, thereby giving
us opportunity to draw off those hor9e to the rest
of the army, which accordingly was done without
any loss, save of three or four of our afore-men-
tioned forlorn, wherein the enemy — as we believe —
received more loss. The army being put into a
reasonable secure posture, towards midnight the
enemy attempted our quarters on the west end of
Heddington, hut — through the goodness of God. — we
repulsed them. The next morning we drew into an
open field, on the south side of Heddington ; we not
363
DUNBAR.
judging it snfe for us to draw to the enemy upon his
own ground, lie being prepossessed thereof, but
rather drew back to give him way to come to us,
if he had so thought fit ; and having waited about
the space of four or five hours, to see if he would
come to us, and not finding any inclination of the
enemy so to do, we resolved to go, according to our
first intendment, to Dunbar. By that time we had
inarched three or four miles, we saw some bodies of
of the enemies horse draw out of their quarters ; and
by that time our carriages were gotten neer Dunbar,
their whole army was upon their march after us ;
and, indeed, our drawing back in this maner, with
the addition of three new regiments added to them,
did much hightcn their confidence, if not presumption
and arrogancy. The enemy that night, we perceived,
gathered towards the hills, laboring to make a per-
fect interposition between us and Berwick ; and
having, in this posture, a great advantage, through
his better knowledg of the country, which he ef-
fected, by sending a considerable party to the strait
pass at Copperspeth, [Cockburnspath] where ten
men to hinder, are better than forty to make their
way : and truly this was an exigent to us ; where-
with the enemy reproached us with that condition
the parliament's army was in, when it made its hard
conditions with the king in Cornwal. By some re-
ports that have come to us, they had disposed of us,
and of their business, in sufficient revenge and wrath
towards our persons, and had swallowed up the poor
interest of England, believing that their army and
their king would have marched to London without
any interruption ; it being told us, we know not how
tridy, by a prisoner we took the night before the
fight, that their king was very suddenly to come
amongst them with those English they allowed to be
about him ; but in what they were thus lifted up,
the Lord was above them. The enemy lying in
the posture before-mentioned, having those advan-
tages, we lay very neer him, being sensible of our
disadvantage, having some weakness of flesh, but yet
consolation and support from the Lord himself, to
our weak faith, wherein, I believe, not a few amongst
us shared, that, because of their numbers, because of
their advantages, because of their confidence, because
of our weakness, because of our strait, we were in
the mount, and in the mount the Lord would be
seen, and that he would finde out a way of deliver-
ance and salvation for us ; and indeed we had our
consolations and our hopes. Upon Monday evening,
the enemy, whose numbers were very great, as we
heard, about 6,000 horse, and 16,000 foot, at least, ours
drawn down, as to sound men, to about 7,500 foot,
and 3,500 horse ; the enemy drew down to their right
wing about two-thirds of their left wing of horse, to
the right wing shogging also their foot and train
much to the right, causing their right wing of horse
to edge down towards the sea. We could not well
imagine, but that the enemy intended to attempt
upon us, or to place themselves into a more exact
position of interposition. Major-general and myself
coming to the Earl of Roxburgh's house, [Brox-
mouth] and observing this posture, I told him, I
thought it (lid give us an opportunity and advantage
to attempt upon the enemy ; to which he imme-
diately replyed, that he had thought to have said the
same thing to me: so that it pleased the Lord to set
this apprehension upon both of our hearts at the
same instant. We called for Colonel Monk, and
shewed him the thing ; and coming to our quarter at
night, and demonstrating our apprehensions to some
of the colonels, they also chearfully concurred ; we
resolved, therefore, to put our business into this
posture, that six regiments of horse, and three regi-
ments and a half of foot should inarch in the van ;
and that the major-general, the lieutenant-general or
the horse, and the commissary-general, and Colonel
Monk, to command the brigade of foot, should lead
on the business ; and that Colonel Pride's brigade,
Colonel Overton's brigade, and the remaining two
regiments of horse, should bring up the cannon and
rere ; the time of falling on to be by break of day;
but, through some delays, it proved not to be so
till six o'clock in the morning: The enemies word
was ' The Covenant;' which it had been for divers
days; ours, ' The Lord of Hosts.' The major-ge-
neral, lieutenant-general Fleetwood, and commis-
sary-general Whaley, and Colonel Tvvisletons, gave
the onset ; the enemy being in very good posture to
receive them, having the advantage of their cannon
and foot against our horse. Before our foot could
come up, the enemy made a gallant resistance, and
there was a very hot dispute at swords point be-
tween our horse and theirs. Our first foot, after
they had discharged their duty, being over-powered
with the enemy, received some repulse, which they
soon recovered ; but my own regiment, under the
command of lieutenant-colonel Goff, and my major
White, did come seasonably in ; and at the push' of
pike, did repel the stoutest regiment the enemy had
there, meerly with the courage the Lord was pleased
to give ; which proved a great amazement to the
residue of their foot. This being the first action be-
tween the foot, the horse in the meantime, did, with
a great deal of courage and spirit, beat back all oppo-
sition, charging through the bodies of the enemies
horse and their foot, who were, after the first re-
pulse, given, made, by the Lord of Hosts, as stubble
to their swords. Indeed, I believe, I may speak it
without partiality, both your chief commanders, and
others, in their several places, and soldiers also,
were acted with as much courage as ever hath been
seen in any action since this war. I know they look
on to be named ; and therefore I forbear particu-
lars. The best of the enemies horse and foot being
broken through and through in less than an hour's
dispute, their whole army being put into confusion,
it became a total rout ; our men having the chase
and execution of them near eight miles. We believe,
that upon the place and near about it, were about
three thousand slain. Prisoners taken of their of-
ficers, you have this enclosed list; of private soldiers,
near 10,000. The whole baggage and train taken ;
wherein was good store of match, powder, and bul-
let ; all their artillery, great and small, thirty guns.
We are confident they have left behind them not less
than fifteen thousand arms. I have already brought
into me near two hundred colours, which 1 herewith
send you. What officers of quality of theirs are
killed, we yet cannot learn ; but yet surely divers
are, and many men of quality are mortally wounded,
as Colonel Lumsdel, the Lord Liberton, and others:
and that, which is no small addition, I do not believe
we have lost 20 men ; not one commissioned officer
slain that I hear of, save one coronet, and Major
Rooksby, since dead of his wounds ; and not many
mortally wounded. Coloney Whaley only cut in the
hand- wrist, and his horse twice shot and killed under
him, but he well, recovered another horse, and went
on in the chase. Thus you have the prospect of
one of the most signal mercies God hath done for
England and his people this war." The subsequent
history of Dunbar presents nothing very memorable.
It partook of the alarm and confusion consequent on
the approach of the Highland army in 1745. In 1779,
Paul Jones's squadron hovered a brief space in front
of the town; and, in 1781, Captain Fall, another
maritime adventurer, threatened a descent, but
sheered off on perceiving preparations making for
giving him a warm reception.
DUN
369
DUN
DUNBARNIE, a parish in the south-east of
Perthshire, about 4 miles in length, and 3 in breadth.
It is bounded on the north by the Earn, which se-
parates it from Forteviot, and by the parishes of
Perth and Rhynd ; on the south by the parishes of
Dron and Ahernethy ; on the west by the parish of
Forgandenny : and on the east by the parishes of
Rhynd and Abernethy. This parish is intersected
by the Earn, and its scenery is of very uncommon
beauty. The Ochil hills approach its southern
border, and appear almost to enclose it ; the west is
occupied by gentle rising grounds adorned with
plantations, avenues, and hedgerows ; on the north
is the beautiful hill of Moncrieff, so celebrated for
the prospects which it affords. It was the view from
this hill, which Mr. Pennant called "the glory of
Scotland," and the description of it in Sir Walter
Scott's " Fair Maid of Perth," cannot fail to be in
the recollection of most of our readers. The soil of
the parish is generally strong, consisting principally
of clay, till, and loam, and has been cultivated with
great success. The parish contains several mineral
springs, of which those of Pitcaithly are much
celebrated : see that article. The principal village
in the parish is the Bridge of Earn, [which see,]
in the immediate vicinity of which the church and
manse are situated. Population, in 1801, 1,066; in
1831, 1,162. Houses 190. Assessed property
£8, 182 The parish of Dunbarnie is in the presby-
tery of Perth, and synod of Stirling and Perth.
Patron, Sir Thomas Moncrieffe, Bart. Stipend
£178 17s. 7(1.5 glebe £29 8s. The church and
manse were originally in the western extremity of
the parish, but were removed to their present situa-
tion in 1 689. There was also, anciently, a chapel
at Moncrieff, and a church at Kirkpottie, both ap-
pendages of the church at Dunbarnie. The former
of these still continues to be the burying-place of the
family of Moncrieffe, the latter has been long in
ruins Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4£d., with
sin average of from .£20 to £25 school-fees, with
about £8 of other emoluments. Average number
of pupils, 76. There is also a private school, the
average attendance of which is 78.
DUNBEATH, an ancient parish now compre-
hended in the parish of Latheron, Caithness. The
village is 7^ miles north of Berriedale, on the banks
of the river Dunbeath, which here discharges itself
into the German ocean. It is an excellent fishing-
station. The " bluff old castle " of Dunbeath, on a nar-
row neck of land, impending on one side over the sea,
and on the other over a deep chasm into which the
tide flows, was taken and garrisoned by the Marquis
of Montrose, in 1630, immediately preceding his
final defeat. See Latheron.
DUNBLANE, a parish in the south of Perthshire,
comprehending nearly the whole of Strathallan. It
is bounded on the north by the parishes of Muthill
and Blackford, being separated partly from the for-
mer, and entirely from the latter, by the river Allan ;
on the south by the parishes of Lecropt and Logie,
from the latter of which it is separated partly by the
Allan, and partly by a small burn which rises in
Blairdenon-hill and falls into the Allan a little below
Kippenross; on the east by the parish of Blackford;
and on the west by Kilmadock and Lecropt. Its figure
is nearly triangular, and it is about 9 miles in length
and 6 in breadth. The most interesting physical
feature of the parish is the Water of Allan, the banks
of which, particularly below the town of Dunblane,
towards the south, are beautifully wooded. This
river flows through a deep glen, and is in many places
overhung by considerable precipices. Its channel is
rocky, and the stream rapid and turbulent but beau-
tifully clear. The walk along the left bank from
I.
the Bridge of Allan to Dunblane is delightfully se-
questered, passing through a thickly-wooded dell,
full of sweet glimpses. The course of the Allan
being about the central part of the parish, divides it
into two nearly equal parts, both of which slope
from high grounds on the extremities of the parish
towards the stream. That part of the parish which
lies on the left of the Allan forms the western ter-
minating declivity of the Ochil range. The surface
of the parish is undulating and very uneven, and to-
wards the north-west it rises to a considerable height,
forming the commencement of a heathy ridge which
runs in a north-westerly direction, and makes a con-
spicuous object in the scenery of this part of the
country. Its general aspect to the north of the
town of Dunblane is bleak and dreary. The greater
part of the parish, particularly towards the east and
north-west, is composed of heaths, moors, and
swamps. The hills are in a great measure covered
with heath. They afford, however, some pasture
to sheep and black cattle. The soil, where at all
capable of cultivation, is light and sandy. Good
crops, however, are grown, especially to the south
of the town of Dunblane. There are two large wool
mills upon the Allan, one above and the other a little
below the town. The value of assessed property,
in 1815, was £14,423. Population, in 1801, 2,619;
in 1831, 3.22S. Houses 504 Dunblane is the seat
of a presbytery. It is in the synod of Perth and
Stirling. Patron, the Crown. Stipend £289 Is.
9d. Unappropriated teinds £44 13s. 6d. There
are also two United Secession congregations in the
town of Dunblane. Another United Secession con-
gregation has existed for about 70 years at Green-
loaning in this parish. Church built when the
congregation was first established. Sittings 200.
Minister's stipend £60, with a manse erected in
1826 at an expense of £200, and a piece of ground
worth about £2 6s. per annum The parochial
schoolmaster has a salary of £34 3s., with £10 10s.
additional from an endowment. The school-fees
produce about £45, from which £20 is deducted for
salary to assistant. Other emoluments £4 lis. 9d.
The average number of scholars is about 100. There
are 9 other schools in the parish, the total average
attendance of which is 230.
Dunblane, the chief town in the above parish,
having formerly been the seat of a bishopric, sonit -
times lays claim to the designation of city. Its e*
ternal appearance, however, is very far indeed from
supporting its right to any such title. Richard
Franck, who travelled in Scotland about 1658, calls
it "dirty Dumblane;" and adds, "Let us pass by
it, and not cumber our discourse with so inconsider-
able a corporation."* Dunblane has in all proba-
bility considerably improved in appearance since it
was visited by the old English tourist, but we are
constrained to confess that its aspect still in some
degree proves the justice of his alliterative reproach.
The principal street is narrow, inconvenient, and
ill-kept. Many of the houses are old and mean, and
the use of thatch as a covering is more frequent than
in almost any town of the size which we remember.
Its situation, however, is pleasing, on the sloping
bank of the Allan, and almost close by the side of
the river ; and the venerable cathedral with its high
square tower, and the old trees in its neighbourhood,
relieve at least, if not redeem, the paltriness and
filth which surround it. The town is built princi-
pally on the left bank of the river, though a few
squalid, straggling houses occupy the opposite side,
* ' Northern Memoir.*, calculated for the meridian of Scot-
land, wherein must ur all of the ritjea, citadels, sea ports, can-
ties, forts, fortresses, rivers, and rivulets are compendiously
described.' By Richard Frunr.k, Pliiluiilliropus. Luiulun, 10D1.
') A
370
DUNBLANE.
to which access is afforded by an old narrow bridge,
built about the beginning of the 15th century by
Finlay Dermock, bishop of Dunblane. The princi-
pal street — the direction of which is nearly parallel
to the stream — leads up towards the cathedral, which
is almost screened from the view, however, by some
old buildings at the entrance to the grave-yard.
The cathedral is in the northern part of the town,
and stands in an elevated position. It is said — though
apparently with little evidence — to have been founded
by David I., in 1142. It is certain, however, that
it was restored or rather rebuilt by Clemens, bishop
of Dunblane, about 1240. The greater part of it
has been unroofed, and is otherwise in a ruinous
state. The choir, however, is still used as the par-
ish-church, and is tolerably entire. The oriel win-
dow and a few of the entrances have been partially
renewed, and this part of the building is kept in a
good state of repair. Some of the choristers' seats,
and those of the bishop and dean, all of them of oak
quaintly carved, still remain. Two ancient sarco-
phagi, and the monument of a warrior and his lady,
are preserved in this part of the building. There are
also here three blue marble grave-stones which cover
the bones of Lady Margaret Drummond, mistress of
James IV., and her sisters Euphemia and Sybilla,
who were poisoned at Drummond castle in 1502.
In the nave most of the prebendal stalls are entire,
and the entrance and fine west window have suf-
fered little injury, but the roof has fallen in and the
building is otherwise much decayed. Workmen,
however, are at present [October 1840] employed
in securing it. New mortar has been carefully ap-
plied to all the interstices, and cramp-irons have
been introduced where necessary. The length of
the cathedral is 216 feet, its breadth 56, and the
height of the wall to the battlements 50 feet. The
tower stands nearly half-way between the two ends
and is placed alongside the building. Its height is
128 feet. The bishop's palace stood to the south of
the cathedral, on the edge of the declivity toward
the river. — Dunblane is supposed to have been ori-
ginally a cell of the Culdees. The period of its
erection into a see has not been ascertained, but the
first bishop is said to have been appointed by David
the First. This see comprehends portions of Perth
and Stirling shires. Few of the bishops make any
figure in history. Maurice, who was appointed bishop
by Robert Bruce in 1319, had, while abbot of Inch-
affray, distinguished himself on the field of Bannock-
burn. At a later period the see was held by a man
eminent in a far other field, Robert Leighton, after-
wards archbishop of Glasgow. This gentle and
heavenly-minded man of genius was bishop of Dun-
blane from 1662 to 1670, when he was raised to the
dignity of archbishop. He was long remembered in
Dunblane by the name of "the good bishop;" and
a retired, shady path near the rii er which he used
to frequent is to this day fondly pointed out as " the
bishop's walk." His library, which he bequeathed
for the use of the clergy of this diocese, is still pre-
served in a small building erected for the purpose
near the cathedral. A marble stone with the bishop's
arms, and the inscription " Bibliotheca Leightoniana,"
tastefully carved upon it, is inserted in the wall on
the outside. The library consisted originally of
about 1,400 volumes, but has since received con-
siderable additions.
Dunblane is a burgh-of-barony. It is situated
within the barony of Cromlix, the superior of which,
Lord Kinnoul, formerly named a bailie who had a
court-house within the town. The court-house is
now occupied by the sheriff- substitute of this district
of Perthshire, who resides and holds his court at
Dunblane. Both the sheriff-court and the commis-
sary-court are held every Wednesday during session.
There are six writers in the town. The gaol of the
baron-bailie is now used as a county lock-up-house.
The town has no charter nor constitution of any
kind, nor any property or common good. A market
is held on Thursdays; and fairs, principally for cattle,
on the 1st Wednesday of March, O. S.; Tuesday
after the 26th of May, the 10th of August, O. S.;
and the 1st Tuesday of November, O. S. Here
are branches of the Commercial bank of Scotland
and of the Glasgow Union bank. The town of
Dunblane contains about 1,800 inhabitants At
Cromlix, the property of the Earl of Kinnoul, 1^
mile north of Dunblane, and 7 from Stirling, are two
celebrated mineral springs which came into notice
about 24 years ago, and of which the following is an
analysis by Dr. Murray. In a pint of the water of
North Spr
inS.
South Spring.
Muriate of soda,
■ 2-t grains.
22.5
Muriate of liroe,
18.
16.
Sulphate of lime,
35
2.3
Carbonate of lime,
0.5
0.3
Oxide uf iron, .
0.17
0.15
The only historical event of importance with
which Dunblane is connected is the battle of Sheriff-
muir, or, as it is sometimes called, of Dunblane, in
1715. SherifF-muir lies a little to the north-east of
the town. It is a boggy, uncultivated field, on the
lower part of the declivity of the Ochils, and is
entirely in the parish of Dunblane. This battle was
fought on the same day on which the Pretender's
forces surrendered at Preston in England. The com-
mander of the king's troops was the Duke of Argyle ;
those of the Pretender were led by the Earl of Mar.
The latter had just taken up his quarters at Perth
when he was informed that the Duke had returned
from Lothian to Stirling; and having been joined by
the northern clans under the Earl of Seaforth, and
those of the west under General Gordon, he con-
ceived himself in a condition to force the passage of
the Forth, and to form a junction with the Pretend-
er's friends in the south, and thus advance along
with them in one body into England. He com-
menced his march on the 11th of November, and
proceeded on that day as far as Auchterarder, when
he reviewed his troops, and allowed them to rest
over the night. Argyle having been informed of
these intentions of the enemy, immediately deter-
mined to give battle. He accordingly passed the
Forth at Stirling on the 12th, and encamped in the
immediate neighbourhood of Dunblane : his left being
posted close by the village, and his right toward
Sheriff-muir. The Earl of Mar having arrived to-
wards the evening of the same day within 2 miles
of the royal camp, remained all night under arms
and in order of battle. His troops amounted to
about 9,000, while the royal army did not exceed
3,500. In the morning, the Duke drew up his forces
on the rising ground of Sheriff-muir. He himself
commanded the right, and General Whetham the
left. Glengary and Clanronald, who commanded
the centre and right wing of the rebel army, com-
menced the battle with a furious attack on General ■
Whetham. The Highlanders charged sword in hand,
and came up with such impetuosity that the left
wing of the King's troops immediately gave way,
and a complete rout and prodigious slaughter took
place. General Whetham fled at full gallop to Stir-
ling, and there declared that the royal army was totally
defeated. While this was going on on the left, the
Duke of Argyle, at the head of a party of dragoons,
attacked the other flank of the enemy, whom he
drove back as far as to the Allan, about 2 miles
behind them. In that space, however, they had at-
&
DUN
371
DUN
tempted to rally no less than ten times, so that he
was compelled to press them hard in order to pre-
vent them from recovering their ranks. Brigadier
'Wightman, with 3 battalions of infantry, was in the
act of advancing to support him, when the right
wing of the rebel army suddenly returning from the
pursuit of Whetham, hastily formed in the rear of the
king's troops, and prepared to renew the attack with
about 5,000jnen. Argyle and Wightman then faced
about and drew up behind some enclosures. Nei-
ther party, however, seemed disposed to renew the
engagement, and after remaining in this position till
the evening, Argyle quietly retired to Dunblane,
and the Earl of Mar to the village of Ardoch. Next
day the Duke, after removing the wounded from the
field, and carrying off some pieces of artillery which
had been left by the enemy, retreated to Stirling.
The number of slain is supposed to have amounted
to about 500 on each side. Both armies laid claim
to the victory The following verse from the well-
known ballad on the fight at Sheriff-muir, though
sufficiently rough, appears to be truly descriptive :
" There's some say that we wan,
And some say that they wan,
And some say that nane wan at a', mail ;
But ae thing I'm sure,
That at Sheriff-muir
A battle there was that I saw, man
And we ran and they ran, and they ran and we ran,
And we ran and they ran awa, man '"
DUNBOG, a small and entirely agricultural par-
ish in Fifeshire; bounded on the north by the Tay;
on the east by the parishes of Flisk, a detached por-
tion of Abdie, and Criech; on the south by Mone-
mail; and on the west by Abdie. Superficial area
about 1,900 acres, of which about 300 are waste
land. The whole is divided at present into five
farms. Assessed property, in 1815, £2,957; pre-
rent real rental about £3,000. The principal man-
sion in the parish is Dunbog, a seat of the Earl of
Zetland. To the south-east of it is Collairnie, which
for five centuries was the seat of a family of the
name of Barclay This parish is in the presbytery
of Cupar and synod of Fife. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend £204: 4s. 8d.; glebe £8 15s. Unappro-
priated teinds £160 5s. Id. Church built in 1803;
sittings 200 Salarv of parochial schoolmaster £34.
DUNCANSBY, "or Doncans-Bay, a promontory
in the shire of Caithness, and parish of Canisbay
[which see] in N. lat. 58° 38'; and W. long. 3° 2'.
This beautiful promontory is of a circular shape, and
about 2 miles in circumference. The Head is cov-
ered with green sward to the very brink of the sur-
rounding rock, with an intermixture of short heath.
Towards the sea — which encompasses two-thirds of
the Head — it is one continued precipice; and, dur-
ing the season of incubation, is frequented by innu-
merable flocks of sea-fowls. Near the top of the
rock, and on that side which faces the Orkneys, is a
vast cavern called by the neighbouring inhabitants,
the Glupe. On the highest part of the Head are
the remains of an ancient watch-tower. The pros-
pect from hence is the most noble and extensive that
can be imagined.
DUNCOW, a small village 5 miles north of Dum-
fries, in the parish of Kirkmahoe, Dumfnes-shire. It
stands on Duncow-burn, a rivulet which rises in the
south of Closeburn, traverses Kirkmahoe from north
to south, dividing it into two nearly equal parts, and,
a little below Kirkmahoe village, falls into the Nith.
The course of this stream is about 7 miles. At the
village of Duncow is a round bill or doon, whence
it derives its name, and which formerly gave name
to the barony of the Comyns, the opponents of
Robert Bruce. In this village James V. left his at-
tendants before he paid his angry visit to Sir John
Charteris of Amisfield. Till recently a large stone
marked the site of the cottage in which the king slept.
DUNDAL AV, a rude fortress on the summit of a
hill in the farm of Dalchully in Badenoch, Inverness-
shire. The hill is conical, and has an elevation of
about 600 feet above the contiguous ground. The
ascent is uncommonly steep and rocky, precluding
all access except on the south side, where a narrow
path seems to have been cleared for a road. The top
is a beautiful horizontal plot of ground, commanding
a very extensive prospect of the valley in ull direc-
tions. Around this green there has been built a
very strong wall of flat stones or flags, without mor-
tar of any kind, whose thickness is 18 feet, and cir-
cumference 1,500; the height 8 feet perpendicular
where it is most entire. Upon the north-east side
there has been a turret, or citadel, constructed with
the same materials, whose wall is also circular, and
contains a reservoir for holding water. The wall of
the citadel seems to have been extremely massy,
from the quantity of stones that have fallen from it,
which is much greater than from any other part of
the building. The labour of collecting and carrying
up-hill such an immense heap of stones as these
buildings required, must have been great beyond
conception, when we reflect, that very likely it was
performed by mere bodily strength, without the aid
of any mechanical powers On both sides of this
hill there are two other rocky eminences, but much
inferior in size and altitude, which might, however,
have been the cause of the name given to the princi-
pal one, Dun-da-hv, that is, 'the Two-handed hill.'
At the distance of a few miles down the valley of
Badenoch, there is another fortress, similar to this
one, at Dalchully, but not so entire, which pro-
bably communicated with Craig-ellachie, still farther
down. See Dun-dornadil.
DUNDAS. See Dalmeny.
DUNDEE,* a parish in the south of Forfarshire,
having the main body lying along the Tay, and a de-
tached portion to the north-east. The principal part
is bounded on the north by Liff, Mains, and Murroes ;
on the east by Monifieth ; on the south by the frith
of Tay ; and on the west by Liff. It is of an elon-
gated form, stretching' from east to west, broadest at
the east end, and narrowest at the middle ; and it
measures diagonally, from Ninewells on the south-
west to Saltside on the north-east, 6^ miles, and has
an average breadth of \h to 1|. The detached part
is bounded on the west by Tealing, and on all other
sides by Murroes, and has nearly the figure of a
sqttare, li mile deep. The whole parish is supposed
to contain 3,700 Scotch acres. The surface rises
with an easy ascent from the Tay ; behind the burgh
it swells somewhat suddenly up, and forms the con-
spicuous hill called Dundee Law, whose summit is
525 feet above the level of the Tay ; and toward the
west it again swells considerably and forms the lesser
* The name, in former times, was generally spelt Donde or
Dontiie i and in Queen Mary's charter Dondei ± in law-L;itin it
is Deidonum ; and it has been affirmed by various Highlanders,
that they consider it as signifying, what this Latin imports, * the
gift,' or otherwise, ' the hill of God.' These circumstances give
probability to the tradition, that it obtained the name, about
the middle of the 12th century, from David Earl of Huntingdon,
who landing here, after a dreadful storm in his return from the
holy wars, designed by it to express his gratitude for his de-
liverance; and, in consequence of a vow, built the present
parish-church. Had the signification been the hill of Tay, as
Taodunum, according to Buchanan, it would in Gaelic have
been pronounced Duntaw. The ancient name was Alec, in.
Boece's Latin, Alectum, and by this it is distinguished in the
Highlands. Tile siguitication of Alec is said to be, ' pleasant' or
' beautiful.* The language spoken by the inhabitants, has, from
time immemorial, been the broad Scotch; that is, English or
Saxon with a peculiar provincial accent. The names of places
in the parish are partiy in this language, and partly Gaelic. Of
tlie former kind are Blackne^s, Coldside, Clepington, and Clay-
pots. Baigay, Dudhopc, Drumgeith, Duutruon, Baldovie, alid
various others are' examples of the latter.
372
DUNDEE.
elevation of Balgay hill. The appearanee of the
whole slope toward the Tay, as seen from the river or
the opposite shore, is beautiful. Balgay hill, in ad-
dition to its own fine form, possesses the attraction
of a sylvan dress ; and Dundee Law is cultivated up
its whole ascent, till it shoots into a round, green,
unusually pleasing summit. Most of the parish is in
a state of good cultivation, and is sufficiently planted
to be adorned without being encumbered. The soil,
to the west of the town, is thin and dry ; in the
north-west of the parish, and behind Dundee Law,
is poor, upon a bottom of till ; and in the eastern
division, is, in general, good, being partly alluvial
and partly mixed with clay. A small part of the
i eastern division is intersected by the Dighty and the
* Fithie Waters, which form a confluence just before
leaving it ; and is much enriched by their depositions
of alluvium. A rill, called the Balgay, rises near the
town, and flows westward, forming a beautiful vale.
The Tay, along the parish, varies in width from 1
mile to 2h ; and is marred by a shifting sand-bank,
upwards of a mile in length, parallel with the chan-
nel of the river. On the lands of Balgay are large
rocks of porphyry. In other localities are quarries
of sandstone of very hard texture, containing many
quartose ywbules ; but the stone principally used in
building is brought from the parish of Longforgan.
Along the coast stretches the great northern mail-
road from Edinburgh to Aberdeen by way of Perth ;
and at remarkably brief intervals roads intersect one
another, both westward and northward. A railway,
recently completed, leaves Dundee on the north, passes
through a side of the Law in a tunnel 340 yards in
length, and stretches away toward Newtyle, opening
a communication between Strathmore and the navi-
gation of the Tay. On the summit of Dundee Law
are vestiges of a fortification, traditionally ascribed
to Edward I., where human bones and pieces of
armour have recently been dug up. According to
tradition a Pictish force having encamped on Tothel
Brow in the parish of Strathmartine, the Scottish
army, under their king, Alpine, occupied the Law,
rushed to battle on the intervening plain, and having
been defeated, suffered the mortification of seeing their
king captured and beheaded. ■ This event occurred
in 834. A stone called the King's cross, having a
hole 10 inches deep drilled in its centre, stands on a
knoll at the northern boundary of the parish ; and is
said to have home Alpine's standard on the day of
the fatal conflict. Population of the parish, includ-
ing the burgh, in 1801, 29,616; in 1831, 45,355.
Houses 3,892. Assessed property, in 1815, .£27,2S8.
Of this, £22,S78 was within the burgh Dundee
gives name to a presbytery, and is in the synod of
Angus and Mearns. By the act of Assembly, 1834,
the parish was divided into several districts, over each
of which a minister and his elder presided. Since
then it has been constituted, quoad sacra, into 9
separate parishes. These shall be described in the
article on the burgh.
Dundee, a royal burgh, an extensive sea-port,
the fifth town of Scotland in point of population,
and the first in the rapidity of recent increase in
prosperity, is pleasantly situated on the north side of
the estuary of the Tay, about 10 miles above Bud-
donness at the embouchure of the river. It stands
in 56° 27' 33" north latitude, and 3° 2' 55" longitude
west from the meridian of Greenwich, and is distant
22 miles east from Perth, 14 south from Forfar, 17
south-west from Arbroath, and 42 miles, by way of
Cupar, from Edinburgh. It occupies chiefly a stripe
of ground along the base of an acclivity, and seems
pent up by Dundee Law and Balgay hill as if they
were a pursuing foe, beautifully arrayed but stern in
purpose, driving it into the sea; but though it has
at both ends crept along tne Tay and sought to
escape the pressure from behind, it uppears now to
be turning round upon its persecutors, and has begun
to tread, in the long strides of spacious streets, upon
the lower acclivities in its rear.
Till very recently the royalty was confined within
narrow limits and contained an inconsiderable town.
From the south side of Balgay hill a rill flows away
eastward, and, having been joined by another on the
west side of the Law, pursues a south-east course,
through a narrow low ground, till, after intersecting
the modern town nearly in the middle, it falls into
the Tay. Another rill, called Wallace burn, rises on
the north of the Law, runs first eastward and next
southward, and then falls into the Tay j of a mile
east of the mouth of the former. Between these rills,
on low flat ground along the shore, stood ancient
Dundee; consisting of only two principal streets, the
Seagate next the Tay, and the Cowgate on a some-
what parallel line to the north. In the broadest
part of the Seagate, remains of the ancient cross, so
late as half a century ago, were to be seen. West
from the mouth of the first stream rocks of from 50
to 90 feet above the level of the Tay swell up from
the low grounds; and these, before being assailed by
the levelling operations of modern improvement,
were of considerably greater elevation, and must
have formed a fine feature of the burghal landscape.
On these roeks, at the point where they were highest,
stood for centuries the ancient castle of Dundee.
This important stronghold probably resembled, in its
architectural features, the fortified edifices of the
eleventh century ; but, though the rallying-point of
the ancient population, and the patron and promoter
of the aboriginal or infant town, it has long since dis-
appeared, and is now commemorated only in the name
of an elegant street, which runs past its site from
the High-street to the Tay.
The modern town of Dundee has bounded far
beyond the limits of the ancient burgh. In one great
line of street, somewhat sinuous, but over most of
the distance not much off the straight line, it stretches
from west to east, near and along the shore, under
the names of Perth-road, Nethergate, High-street,
Seagate, and the Crofts, nearly 1J mile. In another
great line, first north-west, next north, and again
north-west, it 6tretches from the shore, through
Castle-street, Murray-gate, Wellgate, and Bonnet-
hill, upwards of f of a mile, and even there straggles
onward through the incipieat appearances of farther
extension. A third line of street, commencing on
the east at the same point as Perth-road, but diverg-
ing from it till it is nearly £ of a mile distant, and
called over this space Hawkhill ; then, under the
name of Overgate, converging toward it, fill both
merge into the High-street ; then at the latter
street diverging northward through that part of
the second line which consists of Murray-gate,
and at the end of that street, debouching away
eastward, under the name of the Cowgate, nearly
parallel to Seagate, — this line extends about H
mile. But while thus covering an extensive area,
Dundee possesses little regularity of plan. Ex-
cepting the numerous new, but in general short
streets, on the north, and most of the brief com-
munications between the two great lines along the
low ground, not even the trivial grace of straight-
ness of street-line is displayed. Most of the old
streets, too, are of irregular and varying width ; and
many of the alleys, as well as portions of the princi-
pal thoroughfares, are inconveniently and orientally
narrow. Yet the town makes up by a dash of the
picturesque, by its displays of opulence, and by the
romance of its crowded quays, full apparently of
plots which issue in the startling but delightful de-
DUNDEE.
373
noucment, what it wants in the neat forms and ele-
gant attractions of simple beauty. Its exterior, also,
and its general grouping, and its richness of situation
in the core of a brilliant landscape, eminently render
it, as seen from the Fife side of the Tay, or from
Broughty ferry-road, the justly lauded "Bonny
Dundee" of song, and Ail-lec, "the pleasant" or
"the beautiful" of Highland predilection. In a
military point of view .it is accessible on all' sides,
and is' entirely commanded by the neighbouring
heights, so as to be quite indefensible; but as. re-
gards commerce, comfort, and beauty, it is enriched
by its singularly advantageous position on the Tay,
and sheltered and adorned by the eminences among
which it is cradled.
The most bustling and important part of the town
is the High-street, called also. the market-place, and
the Cross. This is an oblong square, or rectangle,
360 feet long, and 100 feet broad, wearing much of
that opulent and commercially great and dignified ap-
pearance which characterises the Trongate or Ar-
gyle-street of Glasgow, or even the less crowded
parts of the great thoroughfares of London. The
houses are of freestone, four stories high, rich and
gaudy in their shops, and generally regular and mo-
dern in their structure, though in two or three in-
stances, surmounted on the front by the gable-end
construction. On the south side, projecting several
feet from the line of the other buildings, stands the
Town hall. This is a fine Roman structure, erected
in 1734; but, being built of a mouldering, dark-
coloured stone, it has a dingy and -somewhat de-
faced appearance. Beneath, it lies open in piazzas,
and above, it towers up in a spire of about 140 feet in
height. At each end of the High-street, is a build-
ing which closes up the wide and stirring area of
the rectangle, but allows, on both sides, sufficient
space for thoroughfares into the adjoining streets.
That which occupies the east end, is the Trades'
hall, dividing the commencement of the Seagate
from that of Murray-gate. It is a neat though
plain building, adorned in the front with Ionic pil-
lars, and surmounted by an elegant cupola. The
Seagate, one of the streets of the ancient town,
and formerly the abode of the Guthries, the Afflecks,
the Brigtons, the Burnsides, and other principal fa-
milies, is a long, sinuous, and very narrow street, ex-
tending away to Wallace burn. The line of street
is then continued to the eastward, through tne
Crofts and Carolina port, till it merges in the road
to Broughty ferry. South of the Seagate are the
Gas works, and the East and the Tay foundries.
Murray-gate, opening on the northern end of the
trades' hall, is narrow and incommodious at its en-
trance, but soon expands in width, and assumes a
pleasing appearance of well-built and somewhat re-
gular lines of houses. In this street are banking-
houses and several other public offices, and also the
quarters of the carriers to the east and the north.
At Wellgate-port, the eastern termination of Mur-
ray-gate, the street forks into two, — the Cowgate,
which runs eastward, and the Wellgate, which runs
northward, forming a straight line with Bonnet. hill.
The Cowgate, more remarkable for business than
any of the other thoroughfares, and virtually the
exchange of the town, has some handsome buildings,
most of which are devoted to commerce, and is
adorned at its east end with a venerable archway,
originally one of the town gates, where the reformer
Wishart preached during the prevalence of the plague
in 1544, the archway or gate serving to keep the
infected and the uninfected in separate crowds.
From the Cowgate, Queen's-street, St. Roque's-
lane, and the Sugar-house wynd, lead off to the
Seagate. King-street subdivides and contracts the
Cowgate, and breaks off at an acute angle from its
north side, running north-eastward to Wallace burn,
and there merges in the great north road, by way of
Arbroath and Montrose, to Aberdeen. In King-
street stands the royal infirmary, built in 1798, on
an elevated situation sloping to the south, well-
detached from other buildings, and having a prome-
nade for convalescents. The Wellgate rises gently
from the Murray-gate, and, on market-days, is a
scene of bustling and tumultuous business. At the
head of the Wellgate is the Lady well, whence the
street has its name, and which draws ample supplies
of excellent water from various springs on the high
grounds. From this point Buckle-maker wynd —
formerly the seat of a craft whence it derived its
name, but which is now extinct — goes off at right
angles and extends to Wallace burn. An extensive
rising ground lying northward of this wynd, and
called Forebank, is adorned with numerous elegant
villas and gardens. On a line with Wellgate, and
mounting up the ascent, Bonnet hill rejoices in the
additional names of the Rottenrow and the Hill-
town of Dundee, and stretches away over the accli-
vity on to the lands of Clepington; but it has a
motley and grotesque appearance, and, though the
seat of very extensive manufactures, consists gener-
ally of ill-built houses, confusedly interspersed with
cloth factories. Maxwelltown, a suburb of recent
origin, occupies the grounds which lie between Hill-
town and the villa of Hillbank, to the northward of
Forebank. Opposite to Buckle-maker wynd, Dud-
hope wynd, which forms the northern boundary of
the Chapelshade, breaks off to the west, and runs
-along nearly half-a-mile, terminating at the bar-
racks. '
From the High-street, to which we now return,
Castle-street goes off at right angles with the com-
mencement of the Seagate, and leads down to the
harbour. This street contains several fine build-
ings; and is the site of the theatre and an Episco-
palian chapel, the lower part of the latter edifice
containing the office of the Dundee bank. At the
south-east corner of • Castle-street stands the ex-
change coffee-room,.— a commodious and beautiful
building, having a spacious opening to the west, and
erected by a body of subscribers at an expense of
.£9,000. Its western front, ,oa the basement story,
has Doric pillars, boldly relieved by deep recesses of
the doors and windows; and, on the second story,
is in a style of the Ionic order, more ornate than
what usually occurs. The reading-room is 73 feet
by 38, and is 30 feet in height. From the south-
west corner of the High-street, and parallel with
Castle-street, Crichton-street leadls down to the
green-market, and on to Earl Grey's dock. Oppo-
site to the town-hall,, and in a direction the reverse
of Castle and Crichton streets, a splendid street has
recently been built, combining uniformity with ele-
gance, and rivalling, in the beauty of its buildings,
some of the admired parts of the Scottish metropo-
lis. The splendour of Reform-street — the name
imposed on this public-spirited and tasteful addition
to the thoroughfares of the burgh — is greatly en-
hanced by the magnificent appearance of the new
public seminaries, which close it up on the north,
and look down along its area. This edifice is in the
Doric style of architecture, and has its portico or
central part copied from the exquisite model of the
Parthenon of Athens. A double-columned gateway,
closed in by an iron-palisadoed wall which encircles
a beautiful shrubbery, leads to the principal entrance.
The building contains a room 42 feet by 40 for
classes studying the higher departments of science,
another of the same dimensions fitied up as a mu-
seum, one 37 feet by 30 for the junior classes, au
374
DUNDEE.
well as a large provision of other apartments ; and it
was erected at an expense of about £10,000.
At the west end of the High-street, closing up
the area, is an ancient building, long called the
IiUckenbootbs, on the corner of which is still a tur-
ret indicative of its former character. This vener-
able pile was the adopted residence of General Monk,
when he entered Dundee and consigned it to the
pillage of his soldiery ; and it was the birthplace of
the celebrated Anne Scott, daughter of the Earl of
Buccleuch, and afterwards Duchess of Monmouth,
whose parents had sought a refuge in the town from
the effects of Cromwell's usurpation ; and it was
also, in 1715, the adopted home of the Pretender,
during the period of his stay in Dundee. The lower
part of the building was originally divided into arched
sections; but is now modernized. An edifice con-
nected with the Luckenbooths, and originally called
the tolbooth, is also very ancient, and had before it,
in old times, the Tron in which the public weights
were kept. In its vicinity is an alley still called
Old Tolbooth lane. Within St. Margaret's close,
at the High-street, were formerly a royal residence
and a mint. The palace, after ceasing to be a home
or a possession of royalty, was inhabited by the Earls
of Angus, by the Scrymseours of Dudhope, and after-
wards by John Graname of Claverhouse, Viscount
Dundee. Robert III. was the first sovereign who
struck coin in the mint. An alley leading from the
High-street is still called Mint- close.
Passing out of the High-street, on the north side
of the Luckenbooths, the Overgate runs away west-
ward for upwards of ^ of a mile to the West-port,
and there forks into lines of street called Hawkhill
and Scouringburn, which pass on to the limits of the
town. The Overgate was originally called Argyle-
gate, from the connexion it had with the family of
Argyle; and, opposite the Windmill, it still has a
house to which tradition points as that family's quon-
dam property. As the street proceeds, it sends off
several branch-streets to the north which run up
toward the base of the Law. This district, though
containing many good houses, exhibits utter reck-
lessness of architectural taste or uniformity, and is
the site of the larger portion of the great manufac-
tories. But Tay-street, the principal communication
with the lower part of the town, is elegant and pos-
sesses a beautiful square. The streets, or rather
alleys, parallel with it, breaking off on the south
side of Overgate and Hawkhill — Tally-street, Thor-
ter-row, School- wynd, Long-wynd, and Small's-
wynd— are narrow and cheerless communications.
From the west end of Overgate, but chiefly from
Scouringburn or Witch-know, Lindsay-street, lead-
ing to the new jail and bridewell, Barrack-street and
other openings break off northward, and present fine
lines of new and pleasingly constructed buildings.
The barracks occupy a commanding eminence at the
foot of the Law, and enclose the remains of Dud-
hope castle, formerly the residence of the constables
of Dundee; and, for advantageous and healthful
situation, they excel all other buildings of their class
in the north of Scotland.
Returning again to the High-street, we find a wide
opening from its western end, on the south side of
the Luckenbooths. Most of this opening is closed
up, at the distance of a few yards, by an Episcopalian
chapel, of very neat appearance, which has its lower
story fitted up and occupied as shops. On the south
side of this chapel, leading out from the High-street,
and forming the main line of communication with
Perth and Glasgow, opens the Nethergate, which
stretches away, through the direct continuation of
Perth-road, into the carse of Cowrie, and, through
a forking continuation sea- ward, into the delightful
promenade of Magdalene-yard. The Nethergate 13
a well-built and somewhat spacious street of nearly
i a mile in length ; and leaves behind the hustle and
confusion of the business parts of the town, and puts
on appearances of architectural neatness and modem
improvement. As it advances westward, it becomes
the site of the elegant or the flaunting homes of the
elite of the town ; and, along with its branch-streets,
has quite as aristocratic an air as comports with its
propinquity to manufacture and commercial stir.
The houses, instead of forming continuous lines,
now stand apart, environed with lawn and flower-
plots ; and eventually they announce their inmates
to be parties who know quite as well to luxuriate
in the results which affluence produces, as to ply the
arts by which it is obtained. To render the Nether-
gate somewhat straight, and achieve a considerable
degree of order and neatness in the collocation of
modern buildings, many edifices of antique character
and historical interest, shared a common demolition
with the gaunt and ungainly houses which at one
time jostled one another along the line. Among
others, a short way after the debouch of the street
from the cross, stood Whitehall, the residence, at
various periods, of the kings of Scotland, the scene
of frequent conventions of estates and burghs, and
the meeting-place of several general assemblies of the
Church of Scotland. A memorial of the building
still exists in the name of an alley, called Whitehall
close, which leads down to the shore; in a sculpture
of the royal arms of Charles I. over the entrance to
this alley, with the inscription in decayed letters,
" God save the King, C. R. 1660;" and in the in-
sertion of some sculptured stones which belonged to
it in several of the buildings which stand on or near
its site. All that remains of it is a portion of the
west wall. On the lintel of a door, leading to three
low vaults, which communicate with one another,
and are hemmed in by an outer wall of great strength,
is inscribed, " Tendit acerrima virtus." Opposite
this lintel is a niche with several ornamental figures;
two of which, though much decayed, appear to have
been statues. Whitehall was the home of Charles
immediately before his ill-fated expedition to Wor-
cester; and it seems to have been strictly a court-
residence, surrounded by numerous houses belonging
to the nobility. A little to the westward of White-
hall close stood one of the most ancient and spacious
mansions in Dundee, the town-residence of the
powerful Earls of Crawford, said to have been built
in the 13th century, and, along with its grounds,
stretching downward from the Nethergate quite to
the river. Sixty or seventy years ago, vestiges of
the mansion were still in existence, having the word
" Lindsay" embossed in a sort of battlement. The
lords of Crawford resided here in feudal splendour ;
and, in the beginning of the 15th century, Archibald,
sixth Earl of Angus and Lord of Liddesdale, com-
monly called Bell-the-Cat, visited the mansion, and
was married within its walls, amid a pomp and mag-
nificence of ceremony which were remarkable even
in those days of excessive pageantry, to Maud Lind-
say, daughter of the contemporaneous Earl of Craw-
ford.
Passing off from the Nethergate, near the site o1
the mansion of the Crawfords, Union-street leads
down to the shore. This is a spacious and beauti-
ful thoroughfare, traced along the sites of many un-
seemly and frail houses which formerly disfigured and
menaced the locality. From its west side branches
Yeaman shore, having in its southern line of build-
ings a plain and indifferently sifuated public edifice,
the Sailors' hall. Merging from Union-street on the
south we find ourselves near the western point of
the quays and docks of Dundee. Hence to the Trades'
DUNDEE.
375
lane, Dock-street, consisting of new and elegant erec-
tions, runs parallel to the Tay, and forms a fine
background to its series of docks, with their marine
forest of masts. Going off from an open area at the
foot of Castle-street is Exchange-street, running
nearly parallel with Dock-street ; and crossing the
further end of this at right angles, and coming down
' to Dock-street, from the Seagate near the High-
street, is Commercial-street. Both of these are new
thoroughfares, and in keeping with the neatness and
taste of the modern improvement-spirit of the town.
In Green-market square, foot of Crichton-street,
is the old custom-house, one of the most antiquated
buildings in Dundee. The lower part was formerly
arched, and seems also to have been surrounded
with a kind of piazza, now converted into shops
and cellars. At the top it originally terminated
in fine circular turrets ; in each story it has cir-
cular turreted rooms, as well as other apartments
bearing vestiges of ancient comfort and magnifi-
cence ; and altogether it appears to have been one
of those baronial residences which, in feudal times,
abounded in the town, and which either have be-
queathed their names to streets or left some scanty
physical memorials to stimulate the curiosity of the
antiquarian. The old Fish-market beside this edifice
is now abandoned ; a clean area, well-supplied with
water, and placed under suitable regulations, having
been provided between the end of Castle-street and
the Green-market. At the extreme west of the
harbour, and nearly opposite Union-street, is Craig-
pier, exclusively used by the large steam-vessels
which ply at brief intervals on the ferry to the Fife
coast, and constitute nearly a complete succedaneum
for a bridge across the estuary. From this pier on
the west, to the ship-building-yards opposite Trades'
lane on the east, stretch the proud and opulent
series of docks which are at once the boast of Dun-
dee, the chief means of its wealth, and the best evi-
dence of its enterprise and taste. Previous to 1815
. — when commissioners were appointed by act of par-
liament to extend and improve the harbour — the only
accommodations for shipping were a small pier and a
few ill-constructed erections which could not be
reached by vessels of any considerable draught of
water. But between 1815 and 1830, a wet-dock,
with a graving-dock attached to it, was constructed,
— the tide-harbour deepened and extended, — sea-
walls and additional quays built, — and various other
improvements made, at the munificent cost of
.£102,800. The wet-dock, then constructed, and
culled William the Fourth's, covers an area of nearly 8
acres, and has its adjoininggraving-dock in correspond-
ing proportion. Since 1830 a large part of the tide-
harbour has been converted into another wet-dock,
called Earl Grey's dock. Still further improvements,
on a magnificent scale, have been made or are in
progress ; and include an extent of space eastward
equal to nearly double the area of the docks and
harbours which have been noticed. All of these
improvements are considerably within the range of
high-water mark, leaving an important space of
ground skirting along the town to be occupied as the
site of buildings, and the area of a continuation of
Dock-street ; and part of the improvements are also
within low- water mark, leaving, even there, between
the new wet-docks and the sea, a space to be occu-
pied by warehouses and building-yards. Two ad-
ditional wet-docks, a tide-harbour with a very deep
water draught and greatly improved accommodation
for shipping, are the principal elements. The great
outer sea-wall is extended considerably to the east-
ward, and does great credit to Mr. Leslie the engi-
neer, for the skill and science he has displayed. When
the improvements are completed, they will render the
harbour of Dundee one of the finest, safest, and most
convenient in Britain. One valuable advantage is
that, like the harbours of Liverpool and of Greenock,
it is situated almost all within the line of low-water
mark, and offers commodious ingress in very reduced
states of the tide. The estuary of the Tay, where it
washes the town, is about 2 miles broad, and is pent
up by banks which, in general, have a sufficiently
rapid declination to leave little of the beach bare at
low water. Most vessels, especially steam-boats,
can, in consequence, enter the harbour at even the
unfavourable epochs of the tide. Various sand-banks,
indeed, at the mouth of the estuary, opposite the
town, offer obstructions to the navigation ; but they
are now, by the appliances of lighthouses, beacons,
and accurate charts, rendered nearly harmless, and
fail to impede the rapidly increasing progress of the
commerce of the river. Mr. Leslie has erected on
the quay of Earl Grey's dock a stupendous crane, by
which eight men easily lift a weight of 30 tons. The
height of the sheave above the level of the quay is
40 feet; the total weight of the castings, bars, chain,
and brasses, 59 tons.
Several public buildings and places of interest re-
quire more detailed mention than could be made of
them in a general sketch of the town ; and others — ■
including all the ecclesiastical edifices — remain yet to
be noticed. The Trades' hall was built by the nine
incorporated trades, and was originally fitted up
with separate apartments for their respective use.
Besides being a considerable ornament to the High-
street, it occasioned the removal of shambles for-
merly on its site, which were a great public nuisance.
The ground-floor is fitted up in commodious and ele-
gant shops ; and the second floor contains an elegant
hall, 50 feet long, 30 broad, and 25 high, which, pre-
vious to the erection of the theatre, was occasionally
used for histrionic exhibitions, and is now occupied
by the Eastern bank of Scotland. The Town-hall
was built on the site of St. Clement's church, from
a design of the celebrated William Adam. The
ground-floor, behind the piazzas, is fitted up in
apartments for business, — the west end being a
long-established apothecary's shop, and the east end
affording accommodation for the town-chamberlain
and the treasurer of police. The west end of the
second floor contains a very handsome hall, pro-
fusely embellished, in which the town-council hold
their sederunts ; and the east end contains a hall
equally spacious, though less ornate, in which the
guildry incorporation and the sheriff and justices hold
their courts. On the same floor are four rooms with
strongly arched roofs, for the use of the town clerks
and the conservation of the public records ; and
though threatening, from their peculiar structure, to
wear a heavy appearance, are airy, well-lighted, and
cheerful. The third floor — in ludicrous inconsis-
tency with the importance and public-spirit of the
town, and in painful incongruousness with the suit-
able lodgment or the effective moral reclamation of
the miserable inmates — continued, in 1836, to be the
jail, ill-aired, wretchedly planned, and utterly too
limited. The apartments are five, three of which,
in the front, are lighted by small oval windows, and
were appropriated to debtors ; while the two in the
rear were strong rooms for male felons. Of the attic
rooms, part was occupied by the turnkey, and part
by female prisoners, debtors, and felons, without
classification. Even the tower of the 6pire sur-
mounting the town-hall was partly fitted up and
used as a prison. New public buildings, however
creditable to the character of the burgh, adapted,.to
the multiplied exigencies of its social condition, and
consisting of jail, bridewell, and police-office, have
recently been completed, at the south-west comer of
376
DUNDEE.
the town's gardens, from a design of Mr. Angus, and
at a cost of £26,000. The first jail in Dundee stood
in the Seagate ; and near its site is still pointed out a
spot where a woman, named Grizel Jeffrey, was igno-
miniously burned to death under an imputation of
witchcraft The lunatic asylum was opened for pa-
tients in 1820, and is a well-arranged edifice, and
well-conducted institution ; situated about J a mile
north of the town, upon an inclined plane consider-
ably higher than the vale of the burgh, commanding
a fine view of the Tay and the country along its
shores, and encircled with spacious airing-grounds
and delightful garden-walks The theatre — it may
be remarked, as an instance additional to several
which have occurred, of an economical disposition
of public buildings, peculiarly characteristic of
Dundee — has its ground-floor fitted up and oc-
cupied as shops The Watt institution is an ele-
gant Grecian structure, consisting of a front build-
ing and an attached back-building of two floors, and
commodiously distributed in the interior, into a lib-
rary 29 feet by 21, on the ground-floor, a labora-
tory, 21 feet by 14.1, and an apparatus-room 21 feet
by 14; on the second-floor, into a lecture-hall 50
feet by 35 ; and in the back-building, into a museum,
lighted below by 10 windows, and above by 2 cupolas.
— At the head of a lane, between Castle-street and
the old fish-market, is the hall of the Caledonian lodge
of free-masons At the part of the Nethergate, op-
posite the foot of Tay-street, stand the dilapitated
remains of the hospital. The date of its foundation
is unknown. On the 15th of April, 1567, Queen
Mary granted to the magistrates, council, and com-
munity of Dundee, for behoof of the ministry and
hospital, all lands, &c. which had belonged to any
chaplainries, altars, or prebendaries, within the liberty
of the town, with the lands which belonged to the
Dominican and Franciscan friars, and the Grey sisters,
which were incorporated into one estate, to be called
the foundation of the ministry and hospital of Dun-
dee. This charter was confirmed by James VI., in
1601. The property of the hospital, though under
charge, nominally, of an hospital master, is, in fact,
under the administration of the magistrates of Dun-
dee. The house has been allowed to fall down, and
the funds belonging to it are now applied to the aid
of poor burgesses. — The Howff, orburying-ground of
the town and parish, is situated in Barrack-street,
formerly called Burial-wynd. But a new cemetery,
as an enlargement of the old, which was crowded and
of repulsive aspect, has been laid out on ground slop-
ing gently to the south, in the lower Chapelshade
gardens, and is so decorated in incipient imitation of
the celebrated Pere la Chaise of Paris as to have
become a favourite promenade of the burghers
The new bleaching-green, lying north of the new
cemetery, is an oblong of nearly 4 acres in area, sur-
rounded with wall and hedge, and tastefully inter-
sected with decorated paths.
The most prominent object in Dundee — that
which most visibly connects it with antiquity, and
bulks most largely among its public edifices, and con-
stitutes the most distinctive feature in its burghal
landscape — is the agglomeration of buildings called
the churches and the tower. Whether looking up
from the area before the Trades' hall, or peering
through any vista or opening among the sinuous
streets, the tower looms largely in the view, and
looks like the impersonation of fleeting Time casting
a dark shadow upon the bustling scenes of the hour;
and, look upon Dundee from what point or visible
distance we may, whether from the east or from the
west or from the south, the tower lifts its gaunt
length high above the undulating surface of a sea of
rool's, and suggests thoughts of many generations
who have fluttered away their ephemeral life, and
passed to their long home, beneath its shadow. The
churches are situated west of the Luekenbooths, be-
tween the Overgate and the Nethergate. A chapel,
it is supposed, originally occupied that part of their
site on winch now stands the East church, and was
founded by Prince David, Earl of Huntingdon.
Around this as a nucleus, other portions of the struc-
ture were raised to complete the form of a cathedral ;
and the whole must, for a considerable period, have
been a church in the fields, the town having its
boundary at the west end of the High-street. The
edifice, in its present form, is irregularly cruciform,
and is divided into 4 sections, called the West or
Steeple church, the South or New church, the North
or Cross church, and the East or Old church. The
choir is 95 feet long, 54 high, and 29 broad ; and has
2 aisles, each \4h feet broad. The cross part has no
aisles; and is 174 feet long, and 44 broad. The
roofs of the four sections were originally of one
height, and presented an uniform appearance ot
architectural beauty. But the West or Steeple
church having been destroyed by the English be-
fore the national union, a new one was erected in
17S9, of such niggard and inharmonious proportions,
as utterly to mar the symmetry of the interesting
pile. In fact, so many additions and vast altera-
tions have, in the course of ages, been made, that,
with the exception of the tower, probably no part
whatever of the strictly original structure remains.
The tower stands at the extreme west of the
churches, and is most advantageously seen, with its
elegant gable windows, from an alley leading out
opposite to it from the Nethergate. Its height is 156
feet. At the corners, it is adorned with lofty abut-
ments, terminating in carved pinnacles ; half-way
up, it has a bartizan or gallery ; and, at the top,
which is flat, and apparently unfinished, it is battle-
mented with a stone rail, and surmounted by a cape-
house resembling a cottage with a double slanting
roof. The cape-house, in the estimation of com-
petent judges, is much more modern than the tower,
and probably was erected as a watch-post to ac-
commodate a warder in the age of forays and pre-
datory incursions ; it could never, at all events, ex-
cept by the most grotesque of blunderers, have been
constructed with a view to architectural decoration ;
for it sits, in vile deformity, as a disfiguring excres-
cence upon the fine, care-worn brow of architec-
tural beauty which it surmounts. The tower, so
far from having had destined for it so tiny and un-
seemly a termination, appears, from the abrupt Hat
formation of its second bartizan, to have had de-
signated for its summit, either a tapering spire, or
more probably an imperial crown, similar to what
adorns the towers of St. Giles' of Edinburgh, and
the Cross or the tolbooth of Glasgow.*
All the other ancient ecclesiastical edifices of
Dundee — which were numerous, well-endowed, and
quite in keeping with the spirit of ostentitious dis-
play and prodigal expenditure which characterized
the bastard and superstitious spirit of the dark ages
— have disappeared. The oldest, St. Paul's, was
situated between Murraygate and Seagate. St.
Clements occupied the site of the present Town-
hall. A mile-and-a-half west of the town, a bury-
ing-ground, still in use, marks the site of the
* Since the first edition of this Work issued from the press
a few weeks ago, Dundee has heen nearly despoiled of her
venerable groupe of ecclesiastical edifices by a tiro which broke
out in the pile of buildings above described early on the morn-
ing of Sunday the 3d of January, 1841, and by which the South
and Cross churches have been entirely gutted, and the Old
church, with lis tine Gothic arches, nearly reduced to a ruin.
The total damage sustained cannot be under £15,001), and it is
at present questionable whether any attempt should be made
to repair the old structures.
DUNDEE.
377
church of Xogie ; — a mensal or table-furnishing
•hurcu of the Bishop of Brechin. On a rocky
rising ground, north of the High-street, stood the
chapel of St. Salvator, probably an appendage of
the royal palace situated in the adjoining close of
St. Margaret, or Maut close. Outside of the Cow-
gate-port, between the Den-bridge and the east end
of the Seagate, stood the chapel of St, Roque ;
commemorated in the name of a lane, which runs
from King-street to the Seagate, and is called St.
Roque's lane, or vulgarly, Semirookie. On a rock,
a little eastward from Carolina-point, stood the
chapel of Kilcraig, meaning, in the language of the
Culdees, the church upon the rock, but afterwards
called by the Roman Catholics, the church of the
Holy Rood. This chapel is commemorated in the
name of Rood-yard, still applied to the locality. At
the foot of Hilltown, stood the chapel of Our Lady,
commemorated in the name of the adjoining Lady
well. On a rock at the western part of the harbour,
originally called Nicholas rock, and afterwards Cha-
,ei-craig, stood the chapel of St. Nicholas. On the
eitst side of Couttie's wynj, still stands a vestige of
the basement part of the wail of the chapel of St.
Mary. A large cluster of houses called Pleasance,
near the western approach to the barracks, probably
ndicates the site of a forgotten chapel dedicated
id Our Lady of Placentia. There app^ii to have
been 4 or 5 other chapels ; and there were also, in
the churches, particularly in the cathedral one
which still survives, various well-endowed altars,
dedicated to particular saints, and served by se-
parate officials. There were likewise 5 convents ; —
a Franciscan friary on the Howff; a Dominican
friary to the west of the Franciscan, and separated
from it by the Friar^s Vennel, afterwards called the
Burial- wynd, and now called Barrack-street; a
monastery of Red or Trinity friars, on or near the
site of the hospital, possibly the hospital itself, at
the foot of South Tay-street ; a convent of the
Nuns of St. Clare, still in existence at the head of
the Methodist close, Overgate, and containing now
a large hall which is occasionally used by the incor-
poration of hammermen, by the preacher, by the
scientific lecturer, by the itinerant salesman, and
even by the histrionic actor ; and a cloister of Mag-
dalenes at the west end of the town, commemorated
in the name of the large irregular field or promenade,
called Magdalene-yard.
In modern ecclesiastical edifices, as to both num-
ber and architectural beauty, Dundee will bear
comparison, if Edinburgh and Glasgow be excepted,
with any town in Scotland. St. Andrew's church,
built in 1772, occupies a slightly rising ground on
the north side of the Cowgate; and is much and
justly admired for its uniform and simple elegance.
An exquisitely formed spire rises, from its west end,
to the height of 139 feet, and contains a set of fine
music-bells. Adjacent to it stands the Glassite cha-
pel, a neat octagonal edifice, built, in 1 732, for Mr.
Glass, the founder of his sect. An Lidependent
chapel, on the west side of Constitution-street, di-
rectly west from the public seminaries, has its east
or principal front of Gothic architecture, with two
buttresses on each side, the transverse ribs springing
from ornamental corbels, and crossed by smaller ribs
running longitudinally on the ceiling. The new
chapel of the second United Secession congregation,
situated in the same street, and opened on the last
day of May, 1840, is both a spacious and a very-
splendid edifice. The Episcopalian chapels, already
incidentally noticed, are finely ornamental of the locali-
ties in which they stand. The Roman Catholic chapel
in Netbergate is a beautiful Gothic structure ; and
forms a fine feature of the rich agglomeration of
architecture seen eastward from the High-street.
St. David's church, in North Tay-street, though a
plain edifice, is spacious, and of pleasing exterior.
Two ITnited Secession chapels, respectively in
School-wvnd and Tay-square ; the Gaelic church,
in South Tay-street ; the parish-churches of St.
Peter, and Chapelshade ; an Independent chapel in
Princes-street ; an Independent Methodist chapel,
in Lindsay-street; a Reformed Presbyterian chapel,
a United Christian chapel, and other places of wor-
ship belonging to various denominations, are either
elegant, or at least comfortable, ecclesiastical erec-
tions.
Dundee is rich in charitable, literary, and public
institutions. Besides the royal infirmary, the royal
lunatic asylum, and the ancient hospital fund, it has
a medical and surgical dispensary and vaccine insti-
tution,— a royal orphan institution, — an indigent sick
society, — a clothing society, — a medical institution
for the lame, — an eye institution, — 18 endowments
for various philanthropic purposes, — the charitable
funds of the guildry, the nine trades, the seamen
fraternity, and numerous voluntary associations, —
funds for the poor, raised partly from collections at
church doors, and partly by assessments on the in-
habitants in the burgh ; — a seaman's friend society,
— a florist's and horticultural society, — the Watt
institution, — a mechanics' institution, — a. phreno-
logical society, — a Highland society, — numerous
public libraries, — and religious and school so-
cieties, general and congregational, for promoting
almost every variety of enlightening and Chris-
tianizing effort at home and abroad The banks
in Dundee are, — the Dundee banking company,
established in 1763, and located in Castle-street,
— the Dundee Union bank, established in 1S09,
and located in Murraygate, — the Eastern bank
of Scotland, established in 183S, and located in Sea-
gate,— the National Security savings bank, establish-
ed in 1838, and located in Reform-street ; and branch
offices of the bank of Scotland, in High-street, — of the
royal bank of Scotland, in Seagate, — of the British
Linen company, in Murraygate, — and of the National
bank of Scotland, in Cowgate. — Dundee has 3 news-
papers:— the Advertiser, the Courier, and the
Chronicle.* Oftener than once, periodicals of a liter-
ary character have been commenced ; but uniformly,
after a brief and hopeless career, they have been dis-
continued.
Dundee is remarkable for failure, perseverance,
and eventual success in attempts at manufacture.
Coarse woollens, under the name of ' plaiding,' dyed
in Holland, and exported throughout Europe, — bon-
nets, so extensively manufactured as to employ a
large proportion of the population, — coloured sew-
ing thread, made by seven different companies, main-
taining 66 twisting-mills, and employing 1,340 spin-
ners,— the tanning of leather, in at least 9 tan-yards,
and to the annual value of £14,200, — glass in two fac-
tories, one for window and the other for bottle-glass,
— the spinning of cotton undertaken, and, for a
time, spiritedly conducted by 7 different companies ;
— these, and the making of buckles and other minor
manufactures, all flourished for a season, and, in the
end, went utterly to ruin ; bequeathing, in some in-
* Oo Wednesday week, the * Dundee Chronicle,' which had,
for some time, been under the management of trustees, was ex-
posed for sale in the office of Messrs. Shiell and Small. The
Highflyers had given out that they intended to purchase the
copyright, but on the day of sale they did not make their ap-
pearance : and the only bidders were Mr. Peter Brown, late of
the ' Advertiser,' and the Chartists. The paper and printing
materials in the printing-office were put up at £700, and, after
a spirited competition, were knocked down to Mr. Brown at
£S20. The Chartists have since intimated that they intend to
"tart a iounial for the advocacy of their own principles in Dun^
dee Perth Chronicle, X2d October, 1S40.
378
DUNDEE.
stances, their names to streets, and in others the ves-
tiges of their factory walls to the inspection of the
commercial antiquary, as memorials of the instability
of trade. The making of soap, the brewing of ale,
and the manufacture of cordage, are ancient, but the
first is extinct, and the second in a declining state,
while the third is in an increasingly prosperous condi-
tion. Linen of various kinds is at present the most
extensive and prosperous manufacture, and gives an
impulse to all other departments of trade. Brown
linen, since the period, considerably remote, when
the manufacture was introduced, has always been
the largest article ; and while of various sorts, con-
sists largely of Osnaburghs, for clothing to the West
Indian negroes. Bleached linen, in imitation of the
sheeting and duck of Russia, and made from yarn
which is bleached by a skilful chemical process be-
fore being woven, is also a large article. Another
fabric is sailcloth, exported in considerable quantity
to America and the East Indies. Another is bag-
ging for packing cotton, made indifferently of hemp
or of flax, and sent to the West Indies and America.
Coarse linens for household purposes, though for-
merly manufactured, are now nearly superseded by
the cheaper linens of Ireland. All these goods, till
a recent date, were manufactured by the hand, and
employed vast numbers of persons in the towns and
villages of Forfarshire. Machinery, however, has
been introduced to a vast extent, and has not only
increased to a prodigious extent the quantity of the
manufacture, but so considerably improved its qua-
lity, and lessened the cost of its production, as to
enable it successfully to hold its way in the face of
the menacing competition of Germany and Russia.
In the town and its immediate vicinity, there
were, in 1832, 36 flax spinning-mills, employing a
steam-power equal to that of 600 horses, and an-
nually consuming 15,600 tons of flax, and producing
7,488,000 spindles of yarn. The mills are in gen-
eral large buildings, from 4 to 6 stories high, having
on each flat a vast number of spindles or carding
machines, and attended by about 3,000 individuals,
considerably the larger proportion of whom are chil-
dren and youths. According to the census of 1831,
the number of linen manufacturers was 363; and the
number of persons employed in the linen manufac-
ture, 6,828.* So greatly has this manufacture in-
creased, that while Dundee imported, in 1745, only
74 tons of flax, it imported, in 1791, 2,444 tons of
flax, and 299 of hemp; and in 1833, 15,010 tons of
flax, and 3,082 of hemp ; and exported proportion-
ally of manufactured fabrics. Causes of its pros-
perity are found in the advantageous position of the
port, with reference to the Baltic, whence the raw
material is obtained,. — in its being the grand empo-
rium of Forfarshire, the Carse of Gowrie, and the
northern parts of Fifeshire, which all depend upon it
for the supply of their material and the sale of their
productions, — and in a bounty granted by Govern-
ment on all home-linen exported, and the impost of
* "The number of weavers in Dundee/' says the Report of
the Assistant Hand-Loom Weavers1 Commissioner, dated 27th
March. I SUU, " is from 4,000 to 5,000, all engaged on linen fab-
rics. This was ascertained about the year 1834, from the num-
ber of signatures attached to a petition in favour of payment
by the yard. The number that signed this petition was 4,673,
about 700 of whom resided in Lochee. The account which the
witnesses gave," respecting the amount of wages, " rather
varied ; but they agreed .that the average was about 8s. per
week, clear of deductions, which might amount to about Is. I *d.
per week to those working in factories, and Is. 8^d. to those
working in their own premises. The difference of wages made
at different fabrics was from Is. to 2s. per week. Mr. Easson
stated, that, taking the average of 10 men's work (100 pieces)
for eight weeks in May and June, 1837, and deducting the
charge for winding the weft, the average to each per week
was 88. Ifd. For February nnd March, 183S (202 pieces), the
average was 9s. 3Jd. This he considered a fair average of the
earnings of the factory weavers.''
a heavy duty on all foreign linen imported. But
flourishing as the linen manufacture of Dundee has
been, dark clouds have passed over it, and let down
drenching rains upon not a few houses connected
with it during four years preceding October, 1840;
and at that date continued still to have such a
lowering aspect, as to occasion doubt whether a
return of sunshine were near.
An interesting view of the commercial condition of
the town will be afforded by an extract from ' An Ac-
count of the Trade of the Port of Dundee, during the
three years ended 31st May, 1838. By John Sturroek,
Esq., Banker and Convener of the Finance Committee
of the Harbour Trustees, Dundee :' — " The commer-
cial crisis, which commenced in October, 1836, and
which extended over Great Britain, Ireland, and the
continents of Europe and America, was severely felt-
in Dundee. Its injurious effects were aggravated by
the circumstance, that during the year from 1st June,
1836, to 31st May, 1837, an excessive importation of
flax and flax codilla, the raw materials from which
the greater part of our exports is manufactured, took
place. The flax imported in that year was 22,461
tons, while the average of the four preceding years
ended 31st May, 1836, was 15,726 tons, showing an
excess of 6,735 tons. In the same manner, the im-
portation of flax codilla being 8,279 tons, exceeded
by 3,405 tons the average of the four preceding
years, which was 4,874 tons. The consequence was
— a great part being held by persons who were de-
pendent upon credit— that the prices fell in a double
ratio : first, from the check given to credit, — and,
secondly, from the importations being greater than
the trade of the place required. Hence D. C. flax —
of which a greater quantity is consumed than any
other — which in June, 1836, was worth .£42 15s.,
had fallen to .£33 in July, 1837 ; and flax codilla fell,
during the same period, from .£21 15s., to j£17 per
ton. Therefore, although the average quantity of
flax imported during the three years ended 31st May,
1838, only exceeds the average of the four years
ended 31st May, 1836, by 1,845 tons; the former
being 17,571, the latter 15,726; and the average of
the flax codilla, for the same period, only exceeds by
944 tons, the average for the three years being 5,818,
and of the four years, 4,874 tons ; yet we see the
injurious results arising from the excessive importa-
tions from the 1st June, 1836, to 31st May, 1837,
amounting to 30,740 tons; the price of the whole
being affected according as the excess bears a greater
or less ratio to the actual quantities required for
consumption.
" On an inspection of the exports, the most gra-
tifying conclusions are to be drawn from the returns
of the sheetings, dowlas, sacking, and sailcloth ex-
ported. The quantities of the three first-mentioned
articles have regularly increased ; and though the
last year of the latter article falls short of the first
year by 4,492 pieces, yet it exceeds the year 1836
by 21,199 pieces. The most important and valuable
article of our trade are sheetings. Their value, dur-
ing the three years, amounts to a third of the whole
exports ; and, as half of the quantity is said to be
used in home consumption, the trade is of the best
and surest kind, and the most likely to continue to
increase. The next is dowlas, of which 3-4ths are
reported to be exported ; then follows sailcloth, half
of which is exported ; and thereafter sacking, of
which 2-3ds are supposed to be used for home con-
sumption. The article of Osnaburghs forms a con-
siderable part of our exports, but seems liable to
great fluctuations, as the average number of pieces
exported during the last three years is only 81,967 ;
while that of the three years ended 31st May, 1835,
was 120,784. This probably arises from 9-ltlths oi'
DUNDEE.
379
the article being exported, and, from the difficulties
which the exporters experience, from imperfect in-
formation, in regulating the supply to the demand.
Whether the great change which has taken place in
our colonies by the complete emancipation of the
negroes, whose clothing was generally made of this
article, will influence this manufacture, can only be
ascertained by time. Conjecturing that free labour
will not only improve the state of the proprietors
but of the labourer, we may anticipate an increase.
Years ended. C°»™^F»e W*
exported.
May 3!, 1827
18-28
1829
.. 1S30
.. 1831
1832
1833
.. 1831
1835
18:16
1837
1838
Total,
Pieces.
44,777?
63,865 5-
59,9893
61,383
65,592
49,036
27,179
BO.sr-
80,1:
159 49+ -J
79,f
23,S
746,839
i
27,179 7
£0,521 {■
80,1583
59 494T
79,549 J-
23,2163
168,611
17S.0I1
283,359
748,839
Yearly
average
of the
3 Years.
69,337
45,952
62,236
" The value of cotton-bagging, of which 19-20ths
are reckoned to be exported, exceeds that of several
of the articles enumerated ; but the remarkable cir-
cumstances attending the exportation of this com-
modity during the last 12 years, require to be par-
ticularly considered. On reference to the return of
cotton-bagging, it will be found that the number of
pieces exported in the 12 years from 1st June, 1826,
to 31st May, 1838, is 746,839, making an annual
average of 62,236. The average of the three years
ended the 31st May, 1829, is 56,203; of the three
years ended the 31st May, 1832, is 59,337; of the
three years ended the 31st May, 1835, is 45,952;
and of the three years ended the 31st May, 1838, is
87,453. During the first six years of this period,
the difference of the annual number of pieces ex-
ported was not very great, and the profits of the
trade were fair. During the next three years the
exportation, as a whole, was moderate, particularly
in the two first years, when great profits were real-
ised. This led to an excessive and fooUsh exporta-
tion in the year ended 31st May, 1836, when no less
than 159,494 pieces were sent from this port, exceed-
ing the exportation of the whole three years, ended
81st May, 1835, by no less than 21,636 pieces. The
crop of American cotton this year, one of the great-
est they have ever had, is estimated at 1,700,000
bales, which, allowing a piece of bagging to pack 11
bales, will consume 154,500 pieces. As the Ameri-
cans themselves furnish one-half of this quantity, the
exportation of 1836 was equal to two years' con-
sumption. Hence, although a part of that year's
exportation may have been sold at a profit, its ulti-
mate effects, followed by the commercial crisis which
took place in the same year, were to depress the
prices, and to render the speculations ruinous. The
same results which followed the excessive importa-
tion of flax have therefore taken place, and before
the trade will furnish profits, it will be necessary
that more attention be paid to proportion the supply
to the demand.
" On taking a general view of the trade during
the three years ended 3lst May, 183S, it appears that
the value of the articles imported, and principally
used in our manufactures, amounts to .£3,284,585,
and that the value of the articles exported in the
same period is -£4,108,970. This leaves a surplus
of £824,385, being a little more than 25 per cent,
on the imported value. But as, taking one manu-
facture with another, the expense of the labour added
to the value of the raw material may be 30 per oent.,
it follows, that during these three years, the loss
sustained by the community, on the whole trade,
has been nearly 5 per cent. If each particular year
be examined, we find that the value of the imports,
in the year ended 31st May, 1836, is £.'1,253,296.
The value of the exports is £'1,651,439, being a sur-
plus of about 32 per cent., to meet the 30 per cent,
paid for labour, added to the prime cost of the raw
material. In the year ended 31st May, 1837, the
cost of the imports amounts to £1,248,776, whilst
the exports are only valued at £1,284,862, showing
a surplus of nearly 3 per cent, to meet 30 per cent.,
the cost of the labour of converting the raw mate-
rial into manufactured articles. In the year ended
31st May, 1838, the value of the imports amounts
to £782,513, while the amount of the exports
reaches £1,172,669, showing an increase of nearly
50 per cent, to meet the additional cost of labour of
about 30 per cent., added to the value of the raw
materials of which the manufactured articles are
composed. This would leave a profit of 20 per cent."
During the year ending April, 1840, the export of
manufactured goods was as under : —
1839.
1840.
Inc.
Dec.
Pieces.
Pieces.
Pieces.
Pieces
Osnaburghs,
6,355
6,049
308.
Sheetings,
17,062
16,116
..
946
Cotton Bagging,
4,313
4 828
515
Canvas,
12,555
12,063
„
49
Dowlas,
5,^75
6,888
1,593
Sacking,
7,420
8,613
1,193
24
Sundries Bagging,
1,520
1,273
Sundries,
2,285
2,533
*248
Total,
56,785
Other manufactures than those already men-
tioned, are the making of ' Dundee kid gloves,'
famed over the whole country, chiefly on account
of the superior manner in which they are sewed,
and made of a fine leather principally imported
from England ; — sugar-refining, conducted in one
sugar-house, — the making of candles and snuff, — .
the working of iron, — the constructing of machin-
ery,— and the making of hand-cards, and cards for
cotton, wool, silk, and tow.
In 1731, the entire shipping belonging to Dundee,
Perth, Broughty-ferry, Ferry-Port-on-Craig, and St.
Andrews, amounted to 70 vessels, 2,300 tonnage.
In 1792, the number of vessels belonging to Dundee
alone was 116; tonnage, 8,550. In 1815, a grand
impulse began to be given to commerce by the vast
improvements which were commenced upon the har-
bour. In the years 1824, 1829, 1833, 1836, and 1840,
the vessels and tonnage were as follows : — .
In 1824, 165 vessels,
In 1829, 225 vessels,
In 1833, 2S4 vessels,
In 1836, 302 vessels,
In 1840, 324 vessels,
17.945 tonnage.
27,150 tonnage.
35,473 tonnage.
39,531 tonnage.
51,135 tonnage.
Several of the larger vessels belonging to companies
are employed in whale-fishing. The amount of pro-
duce brought home by these vessels in 1833, was
2,020 tons of oil, and 100 tons of whalebone; jointly
about £54,000 in value. The vessels next in size
trade to the Baltic, the West Indies, North and
South America, and other foreign markets, for the
manufactures of the town. Many vessels are em-
ployed by various shipping companies, in maintain-
ing regular and frequent communication with Lon-
don, Hull, Newcastle, Leith, Aberdeen, and Glas-
gow. Numerous small vessels also are employed in
the coasting trade, carrying lime and coals, and other
bulky cargoes. But the most brilliant and stirring
movements in the port are those of steam navigation.
With the coast of Fife a communication is maintained
hourly during a large portion of the day. The ves-
380
DUNDEE.
sel employed on this ferry is of peculiar construc-
tion, substantially and handsomely built, and per-
forms the trip across in 20 minutes, allowing 10
minutes at each side for disembarkation and embark-
ation. The length on the deck is 92 feet, and the
breadth about 34. One end, for 32 feet, is 2 feet
lower than the rest of the deck, and railed in for
carriages and cattle, and has its side-doors fitted
with a drawbridge, by which an easy egress is af-
forded to the quay. The vessel consists of 2 hulls,
with a canal between, and is worked by 2 engines
of 15 horse power each, placed in the 2 hulls, and
driving a paddle adjusted in the intervening canal.
So smoothly do they work, as to occasion scarcely
any noise or tremour. Two helms, one placed at each
end of the vessel, are worked by a wheel and pin-
ion, and when jointly employed, turn the vessel
round in very short compass. The machinery is so
constructed that either end may be the stern ; allow-
ing the vessel to land and start again without losing
the time and labour of turning. During a breeze,
or across the swell, the motion is much more gentle
than that of ordinary steam-boats. The vessel,
while peculiar to Dundee, is altogether, though no
specimen of beauty or neatness in naval architecture,
a fine contrivance for utility, and the very beau-ideal
of a ferry-boat. About 100,000 persons are annually
conveyed across the estuary by it, besides carriages,
horses, and vast numbers of cattle. Steam-boat
communication, in a style combining speed with ele-
gance, is maintained daily with Newburgh and Perth,
and in summer this communication is extended to
Broughty-ferry, and Ferry-Port-on-Craig. An ex-
cellent steam navigation is maintained between Dun-
dee and Leith. A powerful steam-vessel, the ill-
fated ' Forfarshire,' plied to Hull, till she sank in the
fearful catastrophe, which will long live in the re-
collection of thousands, associated with commenda-
tion of the philanthropic heroism of Grace Darling.
Three splendid steam-ships, the latest built at an
estimated cost of .£23,000, maintain communication
with London. The first and second, appropriately
called 'the Dundee' and 'the Perth,' hegan to ply
in 1834. They are of nearly the same size, measur-
ing 152 feet along the keel, 164 feet along the keel
and fore-rake, 28 feet 4 inches between the paddles,
and 18 feet from the deck to the floor of the hold.
The actual and comparative prosperity of the port,
from the commencement of the improvements on the
harbour in 1815, till May, 1828, will be shown by
the following table of the nett amount of harbour-
revenue derived from the shore-dues: —
From July, 1815, to July, 1810,
From July, 1816, ti> July, 1817,
From July, 1817, to May, 1818,
From May, 1818, to May, 1810,
From May, 181!), to May, 1820,
From Mav, 1820, to May, 1821,
From May, 1821, to May, 1822,
From May, 1822, to May, 1823,
From May, 1823, to May, 1824,
From May, 1821, to May, 1825,
From May, 1825, to May, 1820,
From May, 1825, to Mny, 1827,
From May, 1827, to May, 1828,
£-t,0!)(>
5,558
5,021
5,61)5
5,(105
5,910
5,011)
0,(183
7,881
7,975
8,055
7,402
8,236
Dundee, long active and somewhat noted for ship-
building, appears to be starting a successful career of
constructing iron ships. Great progress has recently
been made there in this novel but promising species
of naval architecture. Mr. Borrie of the Tay foun-
dry, in particular, has lately entered into a contract
for constructing iron steam-vessels of about 1,500
tons. One which — early in 1840 — he undertook to
build, was to be 330 feet in length when fully rigged,
300 feet along the keel, and propelled by 2 engines,
each of 250 horse power. As no piece of ground
sufficiently capacious for his purpose could be ob-
tained at Dundee, Mr. Borrie feued ground to be
fitted up as a building-yard at Broughty-ferry. Mr.
Thomas Adamson also has taken premises for a simi-
lar purpose.
Three railways leading from Dundee have been
constructed respectively to Newtyle, to Arbroath,
and to Forfar. The Newtyle railway opens a com-
munication with Strathmore, and was projected
under the influence of apprehension on the part of
the merchants of Dundee, that the commerce of that
far-extending and populous and fertile valley, as well
as that of Perth, might be diverted to Arbroath.
The railroad is 11 miles in length, and cost upwards
of £50,000. Starting from the north side of Dun-
dee, it ascends an inclined plane over a distance of
800 yards, rising 1 yard in 10; it then passes
through a shoulder of Dundee Law, in a tunnel of
340 yards in length ; and it afterwards passes along
two other inclined planes before reaching Newtyle.
This railway has literally perforated the obstruction
which the heights behind the town placed in the
way of communication with Strathmore, and has
already prodigiously increased the traffic between
that district and the town. The Arbroath railway
was opened, along the whole line, only on the 2d of
April, 1840; but was opened over part of the line
17 months earlier. Though completed at a period
of unprecedented commercial depression both in
Dundee and in Arbroath, it proved, at even the
first balancing of accounts, which was made on the
1st of May, 1840, to be a promising speculation.
Though at that date the whole line had been open
during only one month, and though extraordinary
costs were incurred, and curtailed profits realized
during the period of its being partially open, a gross
revenue had been received of .£10,620 Is. 3£d., sub-
ject to current expenses of £6,060 5s. 9^d., leaving
asurplus revenue of £4,559 15s. 9d. ; which allowed
of a dividend of 4 per cent. The revenue of the 2d
year amounted to £12,874, and a dividend of 5 per
cent, was declared. The discontinuance of all Sun-
day traffic on this railway was determined by a vote
of 277 to 273 shareholders, on June 3d, 1841. The
Forfar line of railway was opened early in 1839;
and, during 15 months succeeding its opening, yield-
ed £9,740 of gross revenue, subject to £6,672 current
expenses, leaving a nett profit of £3,068, fully equal
to i\ per cent, on the paid up capital of the company.
The number of passengers who had, at that date,
travelled along this line, was 117,852; and the
weight of goods carried was 53,956 tons.
Dundee is excellently accommodated with flesh
and fish markets. Its fuel consists of coal, brought
chiefly from England. A somewhat scanty supply of
water is furnished by pipes. The town, in its streets,
in its shops, in its public buildings, and in some of
its private houses, is cheerfully lighted up with gas.
Altogether, Dundee is behind no town of Scotland
in the race of social and civic improvement; and,
for a considerable series of years, it has outstripped
most in the careerings of commercial enterprise. " In
population," says the writer in the New Statistical
Account of Scotland, under date December 1833, —
" In population, manufactures, and trade, in the
luxury and comfort which prevail, Dundee has per-
haps advanced faster than any similar town in the
kingdom. There are men alive in it who remember
when its population was only one-fifth of what it is
now, when its harbour was a crooked wall, often
enclosing but a few fishing or smuggling craft,—
when its "spinning-mills were unknown and unthought
of, and its trade hardly worthy of the name. And
curious would it be could we anticipate the future,
and tell what will be its state when another genera-
tion shall have passed away, and other hands shall
DUNDEE.
381
perhaps lie called to prepare a record of its progress
or decline." We were much amused with the fol-
lowing account of Dundee, written in 1678, and now
present it to our readers as a curiosity in its way.
It is taken from a Description of the County of
Angus, originally written in Latin, by Robert Ed-
ward, minister of Murroes, and published in the year
1678, along with a pretty large map of the county,
executed by the same hand. A copy of this " De-
scription " was found among some loose papers in the
House of Panmure about 60 years ago, and being the
only copy that could be traced, a translation was
made from it and published in 1 793, inscribed to the
Honourable William Ramsay Maule, now Lord Pan-
mure. After stating that there are rive royal burghs
in Angus, and specifying four of them, viz., Forfar,
Brechin, Montrose, and Arbroath, the following de-
scription is given of Dundee, as the fifth : — " But at
Dundee, the harbour, by great labour and expense,
has been rendered a very safe and agreeable station
for vessels ; and from this circumstance the town has
become the chief emporium, not only of Angus, but
of Perthshire. The citizens here (whose houses re-
semble palaces) are so eminent in regard to their
skill and industry, that they have got more rivals
than equals in the kingdom. The town is divided
into four principal streets, which we may suppose to
represent a human body, stretched on its back, with
its arms towards the west, and its thighs and legs
towards the east. The steeple represents the head,
with an enormous neck, rising upwards of eighteen
stories into the clouds, and surrounded with two
battlements or galleries, one in the middle, and
another at the top, like a crown adorning the head,
whose loud-sounding tongue daily calls the people to
worship. The right hand is stretched forth to the
poor, for there is a large and well-furnished hospital
on that side; but the left hand, because nearer the
heart, is more elevated towards heaven than the
right, indicating a devout mind panting after celestial
enjoyments. In the inmost recesses of the breast
stand the sacred temples of God. So remarkable
were the people of this place for their adherence to
true religion, that, at the Reformation, it was hon-
oured with the appellation of a second Geneva. On
the left breast is a Christian burying-place, richly
and piously ornamenled, that the pious dead may be
long held in veneration and esteem. In the belly is
the market-place, at the middle of which is the cross,
like the navel in the body. Below the loins stand
the shambles, which, as they are in a proper place,
so are they very neat and convenient, having a hid-
den stream of fresh water, which, after wandering
through the pleasant meadows on the left, runs under
them ; and having thus, as it were, scoured the veins
and intestines of the town, is afterwards discharged
into the river. Here the thighs and legs are separ-
ated. The sea approaching the right invites to the
trade and commerce of foreign countries ; and the left
limb, separated for the right a full step, points to
home trade in the northern parts of the county."
Such is the account given of Dundee in 1678; and
if the writer of the above were now to view the hu-
man body which he so minutely describes, we doubt
not that, owing to the huge corpulency and great
stature it has attained in the course of eightscore
years, he would be much puzzled to trace out the
features of the child in the full-grown man.
By act of 3° and 4° William IV. the town-council
of Dundee is fixed at 20, exclusive of the dean-of-
guild, who has a seat ex officio. All the councillors
retire in a cycle of 3 years, 6 the first year, and 7
the second and the third; and, the burgh being
divided into 3 districts, 2 are returned each year by
each district, and 3 the second and the third year by
the first district. The magistrates are a provost
and four bailies, — the provost being chief magis-
trate. They exercise jurisdiction over the whole
ancient and extended royalty, including all the sub-
urbs and urban population. They try questions of
debt to any amount; and all criminal cases within
burgh. There is a sheriff-substitute in Dundee, whose
jurisdiction is cumulative with that of the magistrates
within the royalty, and at the same time extends
over a portion of the county of Forfar, forming the
parishes of Dundee. The magistrates have the
appointment of the town-clerks, procurator-fiscal,
chamberlain, collector of cess, jailer, and other city-
officers. The town-clerk and procurator-fiscal are
appointed ad vitam aut culpam ; the other officers
hold their appointments during the pleasure of the
council. There are five churches of the Establish-
ment within the burgh of Dundee, of which the
magistrates and council are patrons. The guild-bur-
gesses— about 750 in number — enjoy the exclusive
privilege of carrying on trade within the burgh ; and
are possessed of funds, secured upon heritable bonds,
amounting at Mchaelmas, 1832, to about £2,000.
There are nine incorporated trades and three united
trades of Dundee, all enjoying the exclusive privilege
of exercising their crafts within the burgh, and pos-
sessing funds which are employed chiefly in giving
assistance to decayed members and widows. The
police of Dundee is now regulated by statute passed
ill 1837 [7° Will. IV. c. 109], by which the town is
divided into eleven wards, and the provost, four
bailies, dean-of-guild, the sheriff of the county, and
his substitute for the Dundee district, together with
two general commissioners for each ward, are ap-
pointed general commissioners for the purposes of
the act. There are also two resident commissioners
chosen for each ward; both the general and resident
commissioners are chosen by the persons occupying
houses or other premises within their respective
wards, valued at £2 and upwards of yearly rent.
The general commissioners for each ward are head
constables The public property of the town con-
sists of lands, houses, churches, and salmon-fishings ;
and in 1833, was estimated at £123,447 10s. lOd.
The revenue of the burgh in 1692, was £279 4s.
6.1. In 1788, it was £2,820 8s. S^d. The pre-
sent ordinary revenue, arising from lands, houses,
fishings, &c, feu-duties, ground annuals, vicarage-
duties, multure-malt, interest of money from petty
customs, burgesses' entries, duty of 2d. Scots on the
pint of ale, rent of shops, rent of kirk-roods, and
duty on coals paid to kirk-fund, and church seat-
rents, is £7,011 lis. 3^Vd. There was also a cas-
ual revenue, in 1833, of £528 4s. lid., making the
total revenue of the year £7,539 16s. 2f}d.* The
revenue, in 1838-9, was £7,936 7s. 7d.
* At a meeting of the Town-council held at the ciose of 1837,
Mr. Moves produced and read an abstract of the income and
expenditure of the town from 26th September, 1831, to Gth No-
vember, 18:17. He then read the following resolutions, and
moved their adoption.
" 1. That from an abstract of the revenue and expenditure
of tbe burgh from 2fith September, 1831, to :10th September,
1S40, made up by the Town-chamberlain, it appears, that, dur-
ing the six years ending 6th November, 18^7, the expenditure
of the burgh exceeded the income to the extent of £12,840 0s.
Gd., or £2,140 0s. Id. per annum.
" 2. That, notwithstanding this great and continued deficiency
in tbe revenue, the Town-council, in the year I8J4, engaged in
attempts to introduce water into the town by means of com-
pulsory assessment, contrary to the wishes of a large number
of their constituents, as well as of the owners of property iu
Dundee; and during that and the three following years debts
were incurred, or are alleged to have been incurred, relative
to the matter of the water, to the extent of £15,031 2». 1 led.
*'3. That it thus appears, that trom September, 18:11. to No-
vember, 18;j7, the expenditure of the burgh exceeded the in-
come to the extent of £27,871 3s. 56d.
"4. Th,t by the act 3 George IV., cap. 91, § 11, it is enacted,
'that it shall not be lawful lor the magistrates or the Town-
council of any burgh to contract any debt, grant any obligation,
382
DUNDEE.
Dundee formerly united with Perth, Cupar-Fife,
St. Andrews, and Forfar, in sending one member
to parliament; but under the reform act it returns
a member for itself and suburbs. In 1839, the par-
liamentary constituency was 2,740; the municipal,
2,693. Population of the burgh and parish, in 1801,
26,084; in 1831,45,355.
Previous to the act of assembly in 1834, the whole
burgh of Dundee, with a considerable landward ter-
ritory, formed only one parish. This, for convenience,
was divided into several districts, over each of which
a minister and bis elders presided. Since then the
original parish has been divided quoad sacra into 12
separate parishes.
1st, St. Mart's, comprehends the rural district
of the original parish, together with a portion of the
suburbs of the town. Population, in 1837, 5,395;
of whom 3,384 belonged to the Establishment. Two
places of worship, the Old church, with 1,094 sit-
tings, and the South, with 1,354," both supposed to
have been built in the 10th or 11th century, and of
late thoroughly repaired, were used, previous to the
make any agreement, or enter into any engagement, which shall
have the effect of binding them or their successors in office, un-
less an act of council shall have been previously made in that
behalf.' And as a doubt has recently been started whether the
predecessors in office of this council did, by act or acts of coun-
cil, authorize the various accounts as to the water bills (pay-
ment of which is now sought from the council) to he incurred,
Bo as to render it incumbent on this or any succeeding council
to discharge them, the council now recommends to their suc-
cessors in office to make inquiry how far the provisions of the
foresaid act in relation to the several water accounts were com-
plied with, and thereafter to proceed as they shall be advised,
"5. That, from the abstract of the income and expenditure
before referred to, it appears that the expenditure of the burgh
during the period from 7th November, 1837, to 30th September,
1840, exceeded the income by £7,187 13s. 1 4-12d. or £2,595 17a.
8M. per annum.
" 6. That the additional interest chargeable against the burgh,
in consequence of tin; extra expenditure during the six years
ending 7th November, 1837, exceeds £1,01)0 per annum.
"7. That, besides this yearly interest, the foresaid sum of
£7,137 includes £999 4s. 3d. paid to the managers of the 'burgh,
and other accounts, amounting to £1,144 lis. lO^d. — all which
sums were incurred previous to November, 1837; and deducting
them and the said interest (in all £j,!43 16--. Id.) from the total
extra expenditure for the three years since November, 1837, the
actual extra expenditure beyond the income from that time to
30th September last, amounts to £'2,043 16s. ll'»d., or £681 5s.
7d. per annum.
"8. That, under all these circumstances, it is the opinion of
this council that the resolution of the Committee on the Funds
of the Town, dated 13th October current, and approved of by
the council, should be strictly adhered to for the future,"
Mr. Easson then seconded the resolutions, which were adopted
— tliedean-(if-guild dissenting. Very little discussion took place
on these resolutions ; but Mr. Moyes read the following abstract
of the chamberlain's report: —
Income and Expenditure of the Town, from 26th September,
1831, to 0th November, 1837,— abridged by Mr. Moyes.
Yearly Expenditure Deli-
and liicumc. cioncy.
Ordinary expenditure for the above
period £18,760 £8,126
Oriiiuary income for the same period, 45,015 7,507
— £619
Extraordinary expenditure,
Extraordinary income, .
£3,717
£10.344, £1,724,
,1,221 203
£9,122
1,520
£62,140
From November Gth, 1837, to September 20th, 1840.
Ordinary expenditure, . £25,684 £8,561
Ordinary income, * . • 23,017 7,972
£1,767
£5,455
35
£589
£1,818
11 £1,806
Extraordinary expenditure,
Extraordinary income,
£5,420 . £2,396
Deficiency on ordinary expenditure
from 1831 to 1837, . . . £3,717
T)<\. Extraordinary, do. do. 9,122 £12,S40
Do. on Ordinary do. from 1837 to 1840, 1,767
Do. Extraordinary do. do. 5,420 £7, 187 £20,027
Paid on account of Water Bills, £ 1 1 ,976
Claimed as due for Water Bills, 3,051
15,031
±35,058
late fire, in common by the congregation of St.
Mary's, and by those of the second and the third
parishes. Stipend ±"286 10s. 7d. ; glebe £25. Un-
appropriated teinds ±'48 13s. lid.
2d, St. Paul's. This is wholly a town-parish,
about i a-mile square. Population, in 1837, 3,969;
of whom 2,335 belonged to the Establishment.
Stipend of the minister £274 17s. 2d.; of the as-
sistant and successor, who is also parochial mission-
ary, £95 — The fourth United Secession congrega-
tion was established in February 1837. The church
is rented for £44 a-year, and has 420 sittings The
Original Seceder congregation was established in
1818. The church was purchased from a Relief
congregation for £650, and repaired at an expense
of £100. Sittings 900. Stipend£120 The Bap-
tist congregation of the Meadows was established in
1810. The chapel is the upper flat of an edifice,
built in 1835, at a cost of £1,400. Sittings 300.
No stipend The Society of Friends' congregation
was organized about 1833, and meets in a dwelling-
house. No stipend. — The Paadobaptist Berean con-
gregation was established about 1778, and assembles
in a school-room rented at £5. Sittings 125. No
stipend. — The Baptist Berean congregation, formerly
one with the preceding, meets in the Wrights' hall,
Nethergate, rented at £5. Sittings 125. No sti-
pend The congregation in Ranken's close has no
particular denomination, was established in 1832,
and meets in a large flat rented at £9. Sittings 80.
No stipend.
3d, Greyfriars. This parish includes about
one-eighth of the town and suburbs. Population,
in 1837, 4,991 ; of whom 3,398 belonged to the Es-
tablishment. Stipend £275 Is. 8d The Estab-
lished church Gaelic chapel had not, in 1837, any
parish attached to it ; but was designed for the whole
Gaelic population, estimated at from 600 to 700.
Sittings 391. Stipend about £110 The first
United Secession congregation was established in
1745. The church, situated in School- wynd, was
built in 1825, and cost upwards of £2,000. Sittings
1,010. Stipend £200, with an allowance of £20
for sacramental expenses The second United Se-
cession congregation was established in 1747. The
church used in 1837 was built in 1764, and had 750
sittings. But a new and very commodious church
was opened in Constitution-street in 1840. Stipend
of senior minister £120, with a house; of junior
minister £120 — The Original Burgher congregation
is supposed to have been established about the year
1745. The church, situated in Barrack-street, was
built in 1814, and subsequently enlarged, at an entire
expense of £1,769 16s. 4d. Sittings 756. Stipend
£175 The Congregational church assembling in
Constitution-street was established in 1800. The
chapel was built in 1833, and cost £3,000. Sittings
1,250. Stipend £300.-The Old Scotch Indepen-
dent congregation was established in 1771, and meets
in the upper flat of an edifice, built in 1826, and
fitted up as a chapel. Sittings 160. No stipend
The New Jerusalem congregation was established
in 1817, and assembles in a hall rented at £4. Sit-
tings 250. No stipend. — The Wesleyan Methodist
congregation was established in 1764. The chapel
was purchased in 1788 for £300. Sittings 522.
Stipend £120. — The United Methodist congregation
was established in 1835. The chapel, situated in
Lindsay-street, was built in 1838, and cost about
£2,000. Sittings 1,035. Stipend £104. —The
United Christian congregation was established in
1830, and, in 1837, assembled in the Scotch Episco-
pal chapel, rented at £7, and containing 600 sittings.
But a new and commodious chapel has since bc-n
built at a cost of about £1,800. Sittings 1,150
DUNDEE.
383
Stipend £100 The congregation of the Holy Apos-
tolic Catholic church was established in 1836, and
assembles in a hall rented at £35. Stipend variable.
— The Unitarian congregation was established in 1 834.
Sittings 300. Salary £74.
4th, St. John's. The greatest length of this
parish is about half-a-mile. Population, in 1837,
upwards of 5,000. The parish-church, usually called
the Cross church, has been used as a place of wor-
ship during the last 100 years, and was altered and
enlarged in 1830. Sittings 1,037. Stipend £275.
— The third United Secession congregation was
established in 1832. The church was built in 1834,
and cost £2,300. Sittings 1,014. Stipend £200 —
The Relief congregation was established in 1820.
The chapel, huUt in 1792, was purchased in 1833
for £],O00. Sittings 870. Stipend £100— The
Roman Catholic congregation was established about
1790. The chapel was built in 1830, and cost about
£6,000. Sittings 1,182.
5th, St. Clement's. This is wholly a town-par-
ish ; f of a mile in extreme length, and J of a mile
in extreme breadth. Population, in 1837, 6,446 ; of
whom 3,917 belonged to the Establishment. The
parish-church, usually called the Steeple-church, was
rebuilt about 1782. Sittings 1,463. Stipend £300.
. — The Episcopalian congregation of St. Paul's was
established at a remote period. The church was
built in 1812, and cost £3,686 14s. Sittings 504.
Stipend £200 The Baptist congregation, north
side of Seagate, was organized in 1769. The chapel
was built in 1789, and cost £420. Sittings 300.
Stipend £20 The Baptist congregation, south side
of Seagate, was established about 1790. The chapel
cost upwards of £500. Sittings 250. No stipend.
- — The Reformed Presbyterian congregation was or-
ganized in 1831. The chapel was built in 1838, and
cost about £800. Sittings 650. Stipend £100.
6th, St. Andrews. This parish is partly land-
ward but chiefly town. It measures in extreme
length, 1 mile ; in extreme breadth, f of a mile.
Population, in 1837, including that of Hillton parish
[see below], 8,723; of whom 4,360 belonged to the
Establishment. The church was built in 1774, and
cost £3,000. Sittings 1,486. Stipend of the incum-
bent £70; of the assistant and successor £100
The Primitive Methodist congregation was estab-
lished in 1835 ; and meets in a building fitted up as
a chapel, rented at £15. Sittings 170. Stipend £44.
—The Glassite chapel was built in 1732.
7th, St. David's. This parish is chiefly town,
but includes a small landward district, and also com-
prises a small part of the quoad civilia parish of Liff.
Its greatest length is about 2 miles; greatest breadth
about j of a mile. Population, in 1837, including
that of Dudhope [see below], 8,384. The parish-
church was built in 1800 by the Haldanites ; and, in
1822, was bought and fitted up by the town-council
at an expense of £2*221 6s. Sittings 1,608. Sti-
pend £275.
8th, Chapelshade. This parish is partly land-
ward and partly town: greatest length, Ij mile;
greatest breadth 1 mile. Population, in 1837, 7,320;
of whom 3,538 belonged to the Establishment. The
church was built as a Relief chapel in 1789, and was
united to the Establishment as a chapel-of-ease in
1791. In 1830 it was enlarged to the extent of 500
additional sittings, at a cost of £880. Sittings 1,280.
Stipend £150.
9th, St. Peter's. This is a suburban parish,
extending about a mile into the country. It mea- I
sures, in extreme length, \\ mile ; in extreme
breadth, about \ of a mile ; and in area, about 240
acres. Population, in 1837, estimated at 4,000.
Stipend £220, with £12 for communion expenses.
10th, Hillton. This is a newly erected quoad
sacra parish, having been cut off from St.. Andrews
parish in 1838. It includes nearly all the suburban
and all the landward part of that parish. The po-
pulation is about 4,000. The stipend averages £170.
There are a private school, and an infant school, in
this parish, and a commodious parish-school is about
to be erected beside the church.
11th, Dudhope. This quoad sacra parish is
chiefly composed of the western portion of the for-
mer parish of St. David's. Its population is about
2,200. The church is elegant and commodious, and
contains about 1,050 sittings. Stipend £150.
12th, Wallacetown. This quoad sacra parish
embraces a suburban district of about half-a-mile in
length, and a quarter-of-a-mile in breadth, containing
a population of about 3,000. Its church cost £2,700,
and seats 1,075. Stipend £150. There are a school
attached to the church, and an efficient infant-school,
and school-of-industry, in this parish.
The parliamentary documents on the state of edu-
cation in Dundee, follow the ecclesiastical division
which existed in 1834, and exhibit the town and
original parish, not in 12 districts, but in 7 1st,
Cowgate district. There were 9 schools, all non-
parochial, and attended by an average of 435 scho-
lars, being fewer than 1 in 19 of the population ,
2d, Chapelshade district. There were 7 schools, all
non-parochial, attended by 503. — 3d, St. Clement's
parish. There were 5 schools, all non-parochial,
attended by 645 4th, Greyfriars' parish. There
were 5 schools, all non-parochial -5th, Hawkhill
district. There were 10 schools, all non-parochial,
attended by 900 6th, St. Mary's parish. There
were 5 schools, all non-parochial, but free, attended
by 1,065 scholars.— 7th, St. Paul's parish. There
were 13 schools, all non-parochial. Seven were en-
dowed. One of these is an academy, one a gram-
mar-school, and one a sessional school, attended by
500 children.
Among many celebrated natives and citizens of
Dundee, may be mentioned, Alexander Scrymseour,
one of the heroic companions of Wallace, and the first
of Dundee's hereditary constables; — Sir John Scrym-
seour, one of the former's descendants, who became
Viscount of Dudhope, and adhering to Charles I.,
fell in the battle of Marston-muir ; — Hector Boethius,
the Scottish historian, in 1470, the Principal of
King's college, Aberdeen, and one of the revivers of
elegant literature ; — Robert Pittilock, now called
Patullo, who, as first Captain of the Scottish guard,
in the service of France, acquired distinguished mili-
tary honours under Charles VII. ; — James Hallibur-
ton, one of the earliest and ablest of the Scottish re-
formers, through whose influence Dundee became the
first town of Scotland in which the reformed religion
was openly professed ; — George Mackenzie, Lord-ad-
vocate of Scotland, author of the ' Institutes of the
Scots Law,' and founder of the Advocates' library of
Edinburgh; — John Mar, the constructor, in the 17th
century, of a curious chart of the North sea and the
frith of Tay, which cannot, even at the present day,
be excelled in correct illustration; — George Yeamen
of Murie, the representative of the town in the last
Scottish or Union parliament, and one of the ablest
and most patriotic legislators of his country; —
Dr. John Willison, the well-known and cherished
author of ' The Afflicted Man's Companion ;' — Ro-
bert Fergusson the poet, and Robert Stewart, a
friend of his, and an eminently literary man; — James
Weir and James Ivory, teachers in the Dundee se-
minary, and profound mathematicians ; — Admiral
Duncan, the hero of Camperdown, and of many
other naval fights; — Dr. Robert Small, the author
of a luminous view of the astronomical discoveries
384
DUNDEE.
of Kepler, and of many valuable papers in the
Transactions of the Royal Society of Edinburgh ; —
and almost first in the order of chronology, certainly
greatest in the scale of bravery, and not the least in
the rank of general excellence, the celebrated Sir
William Wallace.
Dundee was anciently fortified with walls, begun
by the English, and, in 1547, completed by the
French. The existence and even the position of its
gates are commemorated in the names of its streets,
Nethergate, Overgate, Seagate, and Murraygate, —
the first formerly called Fluckergate, and the second
Argylegate. The town was at an early period a
royal burgh, and conferred by William the Lion upon
his brother David, Earl of Huntingdon ; and, the
circumstance of its being held of a subject as su-
perior occasioning a doubt as to the validity of its
rights, it received a new charter from King Robert
Bruce. Ancient historians affirm that it was a place
of considerable note very early in the Christian era ;
that it was a refuge to Carinthius, king of the Picts,
after he had been defeated in Fife by Agricola ; and
that, about 860, it was, for some time, the residence
of Donald I. and his court, and eventually the scene
of their conversion to Christianity. About the 9th
century a sanguinary battle was fought near the town
between the Picts and the Scots. In 1027 Malcolm
II. lodged there with his army on the night before
his grand attack on Camus the Dane. During the
11th and 12th centuries it was the residence of
several Scottish princes; and in 1108 it witnessed
the last earthly crisis of Edgar Atheling, after a
reign of 9 years. In the 12th century David, prince
of Scotland, Earl of Huntingdon, favourite brother
of William the Lion, and the hero of Sir Walter
Scott's graphic and exciting story of the Talisman,
landed at Dundee on his return from the crusades.
Having escaped great perils among the Mahomme-
<lans, and arrived at Scotland in tempestuous weather,
he regarded the town as a sort of paradise ; and,
in fulfilment of some vows which he had made in
the spirit of the period, he built a gorgeous church,
or gorgeously extended and beautified one previously
in existence, and surmounted it with the magnificent
tower which stills forms the most striking feature in
a scenic picture of the burgh. Dundee reaped great
advantages from the munificence of this prince, —
who was constituted by his royal brother the owner
and ruler of the whole adjacent territory ; and it
afterwards basked also under the favour of Alex-
ander III. About the time of the latter prince's
<leath, in 1286, Wallace the patriot of Scotland was
pursuing his studies at Dundee; and he there im-
bibed and displayed the elements of the independence
and nobleness of character which soon after threw
such brilliance over his exploits. In the wars of
Bruce and Baliol the burghers found their castle so
often seized by adversaries, and made an instrument
of mischief to the town, that they levelled it with
the rock. Dundee, at that period, was twice taken
by Ed ward I. , pillaged of its records, robbed of its
property, defaced in its churches, and even burned to
the ground. But both by the general body of its
citizens, and particularly by the daring and astuteness
of the patriotic Wallace, it achieved deeds of high
bravery, and bruised the foot which trod so ruthlessly
on its soil. Cherished by Bruce and his successors,
and receiving important royal grants, the town soon
rose from its ashes ; and, though burned a third time
during the inroad made to Scotland, in 1385, by the
Duke of Lancaster, it speedily towered to an emi-
nence of prosperity greater than it had ever attained
previous to its disasters. At the period of the Re-
formation it was the first town in Scotland which
publicly renounced popery; and it became so noted
for the energetic and uncompromising spirit of its
protestantism as to acquire the title of the " Second
Geneva." In the brief reign of Edward VI., when
the protector, Somerset, attempted to compel the
acquiescence of the Scotch in the marriage of their
deceitful royal beauty with his amiable young master,
Dundee was a fourth time given a prey to the flames.
In 1559, when the reformed party in Scotland were
severely pressed by an English fleet and army, several
companies of foot were raised in the town, and acted
a distinguished part, in the stirring scenes, both in
their own neighbourhood and in various parts of the
country, which preceded the triumph of reform. In
1564, Queen Mary visited the town in her progress
through Scotland ; and, notwithstanding the sturdy
antagonism of its burghers' religious creed, was re-
ceived with every expression of loyalty, and, in
return, attempted to purchase golden opinions by
some royal grants. During a century of comparative
peace and luxury, Dundee again rose to more than its
former importance, and became the most consider-
able town in Scotland. In 1639 it levied forces in
imitation of the men of Aberdeenshire, and sent these
to aid them in storming the bridge of Dee. The chief
Scottish opponents of Charles I. having assembled in
the town, renewed the solemn league and covenant,
and resolved, under the conduct of the Marquis of
Montrose, to invade England. But Montrose aban-
doned their cause, and, coming down with a victorious
army, marched upon Dundee, took it by assault, gave
it up to plunder, and partially reduced it to ashes.
Great as was the disaster which now strewed it with
desolation, a still greater awaited it in 1651, when
the battle of Worcester paved a highway for the un-
disputed march of Cromwell's conquering armies into
Scotland. General Monk, fully resisted in some parts
of the Lowlands, and in most allowed to walk the
course, encountered a stubborn, prolonged, and san-
guinary resistance beneath the walls of Dundee ; and
when, at length, he took the town by assault, he re-
paid the bravery of its burghers and of numerous
strangers who had fled to it for refuge, by abandoning
it to pillage, and making it the slaughter-house of one
of the most revolting massacres recorded in Scottish
history. So great was the spoil, that each soldier in
Monk's army received for his share nearly ±'60 ster-
ling,— a sum, in the comparative value of money at
the period, truly wonderful. Once more, however,
the town speedily emerged, in a degree, though not
fully, from its calamities ; and thenceforth ceased to
be the theatre of any such events as ensanguine the
pages of its previous annals. From a comparative
estimate of the land-tax, it seems, in 1556, to have
been, next to Edinburgh, the most wealthy town in
Scotland ; but from the same data it appears to have
declined, in the 17th century, one-half, and in the
18th century more than two-thirds.
Dundee has at two periods given noble titles.
Sir John Scrymseour, of the family who were long
constables of the town and standard-bearers to the
King of Scotland, was created Viscount Dundee, in
1641 ; and his second successor, the third Viscount,
was created Earl of Dundee in 1661. On the hitter's
death, without immediate heirs, the Scrymseours of
Birkhill, now Wedderburn of Wedderburn, were de-
frauded of their inheritance. In 1686 the estates — .
after having been for a time in the possession of
Maitland of Hatton — .were bestowed by James VII.
on Captain John Graham of Claverhouse. This man,
of infamous memory in the history of the persecu-
tion of Scotland's Worthies, was, in 1688, created
Viscount Dundee. On, his death, a few months
afterwards, at the battle of Killicrankie, the estates
were finally conferred by King William on the family
of Douglas.
DUN
382
DUN
DUNDELCHACK (Loch), a lake in the parish
of Daviot, Inverness-shire. It is about 6 miles long,
and 1 i broad. It never freezes in winter, but very
readily in spring, by one night's frost, in calm weather.
It pours its waters, by a small stream, into the Nairn,
forming in its course several beautiful lochlets.
DUNDONALD,* a parish in the north-west of
Kyle, on the coast of Ayrshire. It is bounded on
the north by Irvine water, which separates it from
Irvine, Dreghorn, and Kilmaurs; on the east by
Eiccarton and Craigie; on the south-east by Syming-
ton and Monkton ; and on the south-west and west
bv the frith of Clyde. From a bend in Irvine water,
before that stream enters Irvine harbour, the parish
extends southward along the coast 7^ miles; in its
greatest breadth it extends between 6 and 7 miles ;
and it contains an area of about 17 square miles. It
is divided from south to north into two nearly equal
parts, by the low range called the Claven hills, and
afterwards by Shewalton moss. The upper or east-
ern section is a rolling surface of gentle eminences,
adorned with clumps and belts of plantation; and
consists, in general, of a fertile, loamy clay. The
lower or western section is nearly a dead flat ; im-
mediatelv on the coast, except around Troon, and in
some other spots, it is sandy and barren ; and from
half-a-mile inland, it has an excellent soil, and is in
a state of fine cultivation. The promontory of
Troon, protruding 1^- mile into the sea, and not j
mile of average breadth, forms a fine feature in the
landscape of the Ayrshire coast, as seen from the
eminences south-eastward of Ayr. The Claven hills
range south-eastward about 3 miles, and south-west-
ward about li mile, and are all either under culture,
in pasturage, or covered with plantation. They are
so low as not to bear comparison with the other hills
of the county, yet have long been distinguished by
particular names. One of the largest is called War-
ley hill, — probably a corruption of ' warhke ;' and
bears on its summits the vestiges of two encamp-
ments. The Norwegians who landed near Ayr, and
were afterwards defeated at Largs, it is thought, for-
tified this hill ; and they here were not only on a
post of great security from the hostile warlike ap-
pliances of their period, but enjoyed a delightful and
extensive view over the rich amphitheatre of Cun-
ningham and Kyle, and the picturesque attractions
of the frith of Clyde. On a rising ground, near the
village of Dundonald, stands the ruin of Dundonald
castle, described below. Westward of the castle is
a very beautiful sylvan bank, nearly a mile in length,
and, in most places, upwards of 100 feet in height.
In a grand curvature of this bank, and on a gentle
eminence, stands the house of Auchans, for a long
period the residence of the Wallaces of Dundonald ;
afterwards, about 1640, the property of Sir William
Cochrane of Loudon, who was created Earl of Dun-
donald; and subsequently the possession of the Earls
of Eglinton. At the Auchans are the remains of a
small orchard, which was once in high reputation.
The pear, well-known in Scotland by the name of
Auchans, derived that name from this place. The
tree came originally from France, was planted in this
orchard, grew to a great height, and was, not long
ago, blown down by a storm. It appears that the
. Wallaces had preceded the noble family of Dundon-
ald in the possession of this property, as well as that
of Auchans : for Douglas mentions John Wallace of
Dundonald and Auchans, as having married a daugh-
ter of David Stuart of Castlemilk, some time pos-
terior to the year 1570. Both father and son, of the
same name, are mentioned as proprietors of Dundon-
* The unmp means ' Donald's hill.' or ' fort,1 and must have
been derived from an eminence withiu its limits surmounted by
a stron-'liuld.
aid, A. b. 1572. Plantations, especially around
Auchans, are large. Shewalton moss, nearly 4 miles
in circumference, affords an inexhaustible supply of
peat. Coal abounds, and is worked in large quanti-
ties for exportation. The parish is traversed south-
westward by the railway from Kilmarnock to Troon,
and southward along the coast by the great railway
between Glasgow and Ayr ; it is intersected, in va-
rious directions, by 7. or 8 lines of road, and it has
harbours at Troon, Halfway or Irvine. Its villages
are Troon [See Troon], Dundonald, Fairlie, Shew-
alton, Loans, and Halfway. The last is a suburb
of Irvine, In 1S36, Troon had a population of 1,088;
Fairlie and Shewalton, of 505, chiefly colliers; Dun-
donald and Loans, of 505, consisting principally of
handloom weavers and handicraftsmen ; and Halfway,
2,571, consisting chiefly of seamen, ship-carpenters,
and persons employed about the harbour. Popula-
tion of the parish, in 1801, 1,2-10; in 1831, 5,579.*
Houses 685. Assessed property, in 1S15, ±'14,385
Dundonald is in the presbytery of Ayr, and synod of
Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Earl of Eglinton.
Stipend £256 2s. 1W. ; glebe £8. Unappropriated
teinds £647 Is. 5d. — The parish-church was built
in 1S03, and repaired in 1835; sittings 611. In 1836
an additional church was erected at Troon, having
900 sittings; and another was about to be erected at
Halfway, with from 800 to 1,000 sittings. Both
were intended to oe made parish-churches, quuad
sacra — The United Secession built at Troon a cha-
pel in 1822 or 1823, with 289 sittings ; and though
they for a time abandoned it, they have recently had
their people there recongregated In 1S3G, accord-
ing to the report of the religious instruction com-
mission, there were in the parish persons belonging
to the Established church, 3,960; belonging to other
denominations, 1,878; not known to belong to any
denomination, 29 : total, 5,867. Parish schoolmas-
ter's salary £29 ISs. 9d., with about £50 of other
emoluments. There are 10 schools not parochial, —
3 of them exclusively for females. — The parish of
Dundonald anciently comprehended, on the east, the
chapelry of Riccarton, which was erected into a
separate parish long before the Reformation ; and,
on the south, the chapelry of Crossby, now included
in the united parishes of ilonkton and Prestwick.
The church, along with its two chapels, belonged to
the monks of Paisley, and was served by a vicar.
Dundonald castle has never made any conspicuous
appearance in our national history; but it claims
attention as having been the residence of some of
our princes of the house of Stuart. It is situated
on the coast of the frith of Clyde, in the above par-
ish. This castle gives name to the earldom in the
family of Cochrane ; but the rising ground on which
the castle stands, with 5 roods of land adjoining, is
all the property in this parish which now pertains to
that family. No authentic record can be produced
as to the time when the castle was built, or when it
was spoiled of its roof, and rendered desolate. A
large pile still remains. The walls are very thick,
and built of whinstone, which abounds in the vicin-
ity. The corners are of a freestone superior in
quality to any now found in the parish. The Stuart
arms are engrossed in different parts of the building,
and the whole has much the form of those castles
which were raised in many places of Britain during
the 12th and 13th centuries. " The manor and par-
* Tiie vast deference between the population in ] SOI
and 1831, is not all increase. For sinre 162], the villages of
Troon, Halfway, and Sherralton, were detached from the par-
i.-h of Irvine, and annexed to that of Dutidunald. In 1831,
these alone contained 2,516 of the population ; and, iu the cen-
sus of 1801, they of course do not appear, or appear only in th$
paruh of Irvine.
2b
DUN
386
DUN
ieh of Dundonald belonged to Walter, the son of
Alan, the first Stewart, who held the whole of the
northern half of Kyle, in the beginning of the reign
of William the Lion ; and it might have been granted
to him by David I., or his successor Malcolm IV.
Perhaps the castle of Dnndonald was built by the
first Walter, who had no appropriate house or castle
when he settled in Scotland. It seems to have been
the only castle which the Stewarts had in their ex-
tensive barony of Kyle Stewart; but several of their
vassals had small castles in that district." [' Cale-
donia,' vol. iii. p. 508.] — Some writers have asserted
■ — although perhaps rather on doubtful authority —
that Walter, the first of this name, and son of Fle-
ance, received from Malcolm Canmore the baronies
of Strathgrief, or Renfrew, and Kyle, in lieu of his
pretensions to Lochaber. We do not know that the
name of this place occurs before the mention that is
made of it in the designation of Walter, the third of
this Christian name, who is designed ' of Dundonald.'
He was made Justiciary of Scotland by Alexander
II., in 12-30. It was his son Alexander who behaved
so gallantly in the battle of Largs, against the Nor-
wegians. " The castle of Dundonald," says Chal-
mers, "became the retreat of Robert II., after his
retirement from government, upon the death of
James, Earl of Douglas, at Otterburn, in 138S." He
must, however, before this date, have occasionally
made this the place of his residence : for Sir John
Kennedy, of Dunure, having endowed a chapel ad-
joining to the burial-place of the parish-church of
Maybole, this grant is confirmed by Robert II. at
Domdouenald, 4th December, 1371."* Robert II.,
after he ascended the throne, lived much in Dun-
donald castle, wherein he died in 1390. This event
is particularly commemorated by the good prior of
St. Serf's Inch in Lochlevin :
Tin' scrownd Robert (if Scotland Kyng,
As God purwaid, maid endyng
At Doivndownald in his ctintre.
Of a sehort seknes tliare di'yd lie.
Wyntoun, B. ix. c. 10, v. 3.
In the same fortress, his mild, but unfortunate, son
and successor, Robert III. occasionally resided. f
We need scarcely remind the reader, that this prince
had been baptized by the name of John ; but that
this being deemed an unlucky name — as exemplified
in the history of King John of England, of John
Baliol, and of John, king of France — it was, at his
accession, judged expedient that he should assume
that of Robert. Hence, in the language of the vul-
gar, he was commonly known by the sobriquet of
John Fernyeir, equivalent to " John of the last year,"
or " he who was formerly called John." His first
title of honour seems to have been Lord of Kyle ;
afterwards he was Earl of Carrick ; as we learn from
Wyntoun : — .
Syne eftyrwartis all a awhile
Wytli a gret folk the Lord of Kyle,
That syn'e was Erie of Karryke,
And alsua Prynce of our kynryk,
* Wood's Doug. Peerage, i. 325. Reg. Mag. Sig. p. 83, No.
282. The orthography appears more correct in Robertson's
lodex, p. 93, No. 282, where it is Doundoveiialil.
\ This, it would seem, may be fairly assumed from the sup-
plies provided for the royal family here. As Irvine was the
nearest sea-port to Dundonald, and only a few miles distant
from it, there is extaut a Coinpotum of 131)fi, — in which it is
stated, that there was paid to the burgesses of Irvine, in dif-
ferent instalments, for the use of the house of "our Lord the
King," for goods in vessels and oilier utensils, ordered by
the King's letters under his own seal, £13 3s. 4d. ; and to the
officers of the king's house, for their services for that year, £23
18s. 8d. [Rntul. Couipnr. ii. 315.] There is another, of the
bailies of li wyn, a. n. J3U8, for money paid for the proper use
of "our Lord the King." From the same source, we learn that
herrings had formed no inconsiderable part of the provision
made for the royal family. For a charge is stated "for the
purchase of six thousand iiinyse of herrings for the use of the
King," a. n. 1102. This Couipotum, however, apparently rer
fera to Perth.
JVfade in Annandirdale a rade.
And sa laug tyme thare-in he h;:de,
Qivhill all the folk oftb.it ruulre
L'ousentyt Scottis men to be.
Cronykil, B. viii. c. 42, v. 107.
It would appear, that the title above referred to was
not, like that of Earl of Carrick, connected with the
dignity of heir apparent, but had been given to him,
as a younger son, from the patrimonial inheritance of
the Stewarts. This good prince terminated his un-
happy reign, April 4th, 1406. According to Pinker-
ton, this event took place at the castle of Rothsay
in Bute. This corresponds with the account given
by the continuator of Fordun, and by Skene in his
' Table of all the Kinges of Scotland"' But Ruddi-
man, David Macpherson, and others, give the pre-
ference to Wyntoun's testimony, who says that he
died at Dundonald : —
A thousand and foure bundyr yere
To tha the sext all reknyt elere, —
Robert the tlirid, oure Lord the Kyng,
Maid at Dundownald bis endyng.
Cronykil, B. ix. c. 26, v. I.
Not far from this royal seat, the remains of an ancient
ecclesiastical foundation are still to be seen, popu-
larly denominated, 'Our Lady Kirk of Kyle:' hut
the time of its erection is quite unknown. This
chapel was called Capella de la Grace, as appears
from a charter of James IV., A. c. 1490. From its
vicinity to Dundonald, it seems to have, at least,
occasionally received some special tokens of royal
favour. For the same prince, we are told, never
passed through that part of the country without
making an offering at ' Our Lady's Kirk of Kyle.'
It appears that belonging to this establishment,
there was a very useful minister of the church of
Rome, who was commonly known as " Our Lady
of Kyle's Pardoner," and who seems, like others
of the same order, to have perambulated the country
for the purpose of vending her acts of grace. $
DUA-DORNADIL, or Dornadilla's Tower,
or Dhnharduil, an ancient hill-fort on the east
side of Loch Ness, in the parish of Durness. It
stands upon a high hill, of a circular, or rather coni-
cal shape, the summit of which is only accessible, on
the south-east, by a narrow ridge which connects the
mount with a hilly chain that runs up to Stratherrie.
On every other quarter the ascent is almost perpen-
dicular; and a rapid river winds round the circum-
ference of the base. The summit is surrounded by
a very strong wall of dry stones, which was once of
great height and thickness. The enclosed area is axi
oblong square of 25 yards long, and 15 yards broad;
it is level and clear of stones, and has on it the re-
mains of a well. Upon a shoulder of this hill, about
50 feet below the summit, there is a druidical temple,
consisting of a circle of large stones firmly fixed in
the ground, with a double row of stones extending
from one side as an avenue or entry to the circle.
There is another fortress of this kind, which com-
mands an extensive view of the lower parts of
Breadalbane. On the summit of Dun-Evan in Nairn-
shire, there is also a similar fortress, consisting of
two ramparts, which surround a level space of the
same oblong form with that of Craig-Phatlric, though
not quite so large. Within the area of Dun-Evan,
there are the traces of a well, and the remains of a
large mass of building which once furnished shelter to
the defenders of the fort. A similar fort exists in
Glenelg, and a stone rampart surrounds the top ol
J James IV. being at Edinburgh, December 8th, 1511, gave
a gratuity of three shillings to "Our Lady of Kyle's Par.
doner." Various instances of his liberality have a prior dale.
.Inly 0th, 1497, he gave an uttering of 14s. in " Our Lady's Kirk
of Kyle ." in September of the same year, when he was at
" Our Lady Kirk of Kyle," he, by his treasurer, paid £b for
five trentales of masses to be there said lor hiiu. — ' Caledonia,1
iii. 4117, 4US,
DUN
387
DUN
tie hill, and in the area there is the vestige of a cir-
cular building for the use of the ancient inhabitants.
From the situation of these hill-forts, as they are
called, their relative positions to one another, and
the accommodations attached to them, it has been
inferred with great plausibility that they were rather
constructed for the purpose of protecting the tribes
from the attacks of one another, than with the de-
sign of defending themselves from an invading enemy.
As a corroboration of this view it is observed, that
these fortresses are placed upon eminences in those
parts of the country which in the early ages must
have been the most habitable and furnished the
greatest quantity of subsistence. They frequently
appear in groups of three, four, or more, in the vi-
cinity of each other ; and they are so disposed, upon
the tops of heights, that sometimes a considerable
number may be seen at the same time : one of them
being always much larger and stronger than the
others, placed in the most commanding situation,
and no doubt intended as the post of the chief.
DUNDRENNAN, the ancient name of the parish
of Rerwick, Kirkcudbrightshire, and now associated
chiefly with the ruins of a celebrated abbey in that
parish, situated in a long narrow valley on the west
bank of the Abbey burn, about \h mile from the Sol-
way, between the Urr and the Dee. The ruins,
though now miserably dilapidated, evince it to
have been a beautiful and extensive pile. The
church was in the form of a cross, surmounted by a
spire 200 feet high. The body was 120 feet long,
and divided into 3 aisles by clustered columns span-
ned with arches, — the side-aisles each 15 feet broad,
and the middle aisle 25. The transept measured,
from north to south, 120 feet, and from east to west
46 feet. On the south side of the church were the
cloisters, enclosing a square area of 94 feet, with a
grass plot in the centre. East and west but chiefly
south of these, were the lodgings and different of-
fices of the monastery, occupying a space of nearly
300 square feet. This abbey was founded, in 1142,
by Fergus, Lord of Galloway. Its first monks
were brought from the Cistertian abbey of Rievall,
in Yorkshire ; and its first abbot was Sylvanus, who
died in 1189. A subsequent abbot sat in the great
parliament, at Brigham, in 1290, for settling the
succession of the Crown. Walter — either the same
abbot or his successor — swore fealty to Edward I.
in 1296; and received, in return, a precept to the
sheriffs of Berwick and of Cumberland for the re-
striction of the property of his house. Robert I.
and David II. granted to the monks considerable
territorial possessions. In the beginning of the 15th
century, Thomas, the abbot, sat in the celebrated
general councils of Constance and Basil. Edward
Maxwell, of the noble family of that name, was
abbot in the time of Mary ; and afforded her an
asylum here upon her flight from the disastrous
battle of Langside. Dundrennan was one of those
whose functionaries were appointed by the King,
independently of the Pope. In 1587, all its pro-
perty devolved to the Crown by the act of annexa-
tion. In 1605, it was made over to Gavin Hamil-
ton, who had been consecrated bishop of Galloway.
A considerable part of the useful Chronicle of Mel-
rose was compiled by a monk of Dundrennan, —
most probably by Abbot Thomas. " Dundrennan
abbey," says Mr. M'Diarmid, "like most religious
houses built by the Catholics in the olden time, is
beautifully situated in a valley of the same name ;
Whether the surrounding limited district gave to or
received from the monastery its present appellation,
is a point we pause not to discuss — but most proba-
bly the former. The site of the edifice is merely
sloping, and hardly deserves the name of an emi-
nence ; but a brawling burn passes hard by ; — hills
of various forms appear at a little distance ; — oi
grown timber there is no great breadth, but the braes
which form the fore-ground, are in many places en-
gagingly covered with copse ; the Sol way, a well-
known arm of the sea, comes rippling to the land,
at less than 2 miles to the south ; and there are emi-
nences plentifully scattered around that command
delightful marine views over a long line of frith,
including Skiddaw and his congeners, the isle of
Man, and, looming far a-head, the singularly peaked
mountains of Morn in Ireland. When the monas-
tery was inhabited, all these and other objects must
have been distinctly visible from the turret and
tower ; and, as regards vast amplitude of scenery,
resting on the placid, running into the picturesque,
and intermingling the sublime, there could be few
retreats of the same order more highly favoured
than Dundrennan abbey. The name of Queen Mary
lends a charm to Dundrennan which bids fair to
defy disassociation so long as one stone of the
building remains upon another. After the disastrous
battle of Langside, her' course seems to have lain
by the romantic Glenkens; and, in wending her way
through its wildest recesses, she drew rein for a
brief space at Queenskill, — a property situated near
the head of the vale of Tarf, the name of which was
changed in honour of the above memorable event.
At Tongland she is said to have crossed the Dee,
— not of course, by the splendid bridge erected by -
Telford, but a frail wooden erection, which her at-
tendants destroyed as one means of retarding the
movements of the enemy. While this work pro-
ceeded, the beleagured Queen sought temporary
shelter and refreshment in the cottage of a widow,
who cheerfully gave of her little all, and was re-
warded, scanty as ways and means may have been,
to the extent of her ambition as proprietrix of a
humble domicile and adjoining field. Still it is not
easy to map the exact route of the persecuted and
beautiful Mary during her flight to the coast. That
she paused and breakfasted at the castle of Lord
Herries, in the parish of Kirkgunzeon, is considered
certain ; and equally so that she visited the hospi-
table mansion of Lord Nithsdale — Terrcgles — where
specimens of her needle-work, and the bed in which
she slept are still shown ; and it is natural to sup-
pose that both hurried visits must have been paid
after her crossing the Dee at Tongland. It was
evening when the Queen reached Dundrennan ; and
the impression has long been erroneously cherished
that her last sad sojourn on the shores of a country
which she never revisited except in dreams, was
passed under the roof of this abbey. The monks,
no doubt, bore her true fealty, but they perhaps
dreaded the vengeance of her pursuers in the shape
of fine or confiscation ; and, from whatever motive,
a lodging was provided in a private house, which, at
the period alluded to, was occupied by the ancestors
of the late Mrs. Anderson of Stroquhan. The
monks, however, attended her to the water's edge,
— assisted in seating her in an open boat, — and alter
waving many an affectionate adieu, slowly bent their
steps homeward, pausing at intervals to mark how
the frail bark progressed towards its destination.
The elements, according to tradition, were auspicious,
and the Solway on the day of expatriation, presented
none of the terrors of a Highland loch —
' Tlie blackening wave is edged with white.
Tempt not the ylumiiy Firlli to-day.'
Port-Mary is simply a creek surrounded by high
rocks, which received its name from the circum-
stances recorded, as did Maryport on the opposite
side, the point of debarkation."
DUN
388
DUN
DTTNDROICH, or ' the Druids' hill,' a mountain
on the boundary line between Peebles-shire and
Edinburghshire, but chiefly within the limits of the
parish of Eddlestone in the former county. It rises
2, 1 00 feet above the level of the sea, and commands
a view, on one side, of Lanarkshire ; on another, of
Annandale ; on a third, of Teviotdale ; and on a
fourth, of the three Lothians and Fifeshire.
DUNDURN, a solitary little chapel in the parish
of Comrie, at which service is occasionally performed
for the benefit of those parishioners residing in that
extremity of the parish which extends towards
Lochearnhead.
DUNEARN. See Burntisland.'
DUNFERMLINE,* a parish, the largest in Fife.
Its extreme length from north to south is about 8
miles ; its breadth towards the south end about 4^
miles, but towards the north only 3 miles. It is
bounded on the south partly by the frith of Forth,
and partly by Inverkeithing ; on the east by Inver-
keithing, Aberdour, and Beath ; on the north by the
parish of Cleish ; and on the west by Saline, Car-
nock, and Torry-burn parishes. The greater portion
of the parish has a southern aspect, the ground rising
gradually from the sea towards the north. South of
the town of Dunfermline, it is well-cultivated and
enclosed ; and the number of gentlemen's seats, with
their wooded grounds, gives much beauty to the
scenery. Towards the north, the soil is not so good ;
and although much has been done in the way of im-
provement, the general appearance of that part of
the parish is not so interesting as it is to the south.
The Lyne is the only brook deserving attention in
the parish. Its source is near the eastern extremity
of it. Having received various accessions, it becomes
considerable below the town, frequently overflows
its banks, and lays the rich fields of Pittencrieff,
Loggie, Cavil, and Pitliver under water. After
running towards the western extremity of the parish,
it unites with another small brook, and takes a
southern direction towards the frith of Forth. There
are several lakes of considerable depth and extent,
in which perch, pike, and eel are found. Besides
the town of Dunfermline, there are 7 villages in the
parish, viz. : — Limekilns, Charleston, Cross-
ford, Patiemoor, Mastertown, Crossgates,
and Halbeath : see these articles In the imme-
diate neighbourhood of the town, towards the south-
west, is Pittencrieff, the property and residence of
James Hunt, Esq. " The moment you leave the
street," says Mercer, "you enter a private gate,
and are on the verge of a deep glen filled with fine
old trees, that wave their foliage oyer the ruins of
the ancient palace. A little farther on is the pen-
insular mount, on which Malcolm Ceanmore re-
sided in his stronghold, — the original germ of Dun-
fermline. Round the base of the mount winds a
rivulet, over which is a bridge leading to the man-
sion-house, situate on the farther bank, in a spaci-
ous park well-wooded, adorned with shrubberies,
and having a splendid prospect to the south. The
ground, too, is classical; for amidst this scenery,
three centuries ago, when it was even more romantic
than it is at present, must often have wandered the
poet Henryson, holding sweet dalliance with the
muses. There can be no doubt that here was the
* The name of thi9 parish is derived from the Celtic Dnn-fiar-
llt/n, signifying 'the Fortified hill by the Crooked stream.1 The
hill-fort here referred to, from which the parish has taken its
name, was most probably tiiat, a minute fragment of the ruins
of which still appears or; a small peninsular mount in PiUen-
crieff glen, and which is called Malcolm Canmore's tower.
The arms of the town are a tower, supported by two linns,
with the motto Esto rttpes inacceitsa, — ' Jie thou an inaccessible
rock,' alluding to the rocky height on which the tower was
built.
very 'wod' he so beautifully describes in the in-
troduetion to one of his fables : — .
In myddis of June, that jolly sweet sessoun,
Quhen that fair Phebus, with his heamis brycht,
Had dryit up the dew fra daill and doun.
And all the land maid with, his lemys lyeht;
In a morning betwene mid-day and nyclit,
I raiss and put all sluith and sleep on syde;
Ontill a wod I went allone, but gyd.
Sueit was the smell of flouris quhyt and reid.
The noyis of birdis rycht delitious ;
The bewis brod blwmyt abone my heid;
The grnnd growand with grassis gratious.
Of all pleasans that place was plenteous,
With sueit odours and birdis armonie ;
The mnrnyng mild my mirth was mair forthy.
The roseis reid arrayit rone and ryss,
The primrose and the purpure viola :
To heir it was a poynt of paradyss,
Sic myrth the mavyss and the merle enwth ma :
The blossoms blyth brak up on bank and bra;
The smell of lierbis, and of foulis the cry,
Contending quha suld have the victory.'
In the 13th century this property belonged to "Wil-
liam de Oberwell, who, in 1291, granted a right to
the monastery of working coal for their own use in
his lands. In 1632 Thomas, 3d Lord Bruce of Kin-
loss, afterwards Earl of Elgin, had a charter of the
barony of Pittencrieff ; and Sibbald informs us that
in his time it was the property of a Mr. Forbes.
About the middle of the last century it belonged to
George Chalmers, Esq. It was afterwards pur-
chased by the father of the present proprietor .
The mansion-house and finely-wooded grounds of
Pitferrane, the seat of Sir John Halket, baronet,
have been held by this family since the end of
the 14th century, having been acquired from the
Scotts of Balwearie, the previous proprietors,
about 1399. From a remote period this family had
the right of exporting coals from their lands to
foreign countries free of duty. In 1707 the privilege
was purchased by government for .£40,000 sterling.
— Near the sea-coast, is Broomhall, the elegant man-
sion of the Earl of Elgin and Kincardine, situated
on an elevated lawn overlooking the village of Lime-
kilns East of Broomhall is Pitreavie, in the 17th
century the property of a family of the name of
Wardlaw. Sir Henry Wardlaw of Pitreavie founded
an hospital at Mastertown. His lady, Elizabeth
Halket, of the family of Pitferrane, is now admitted
to have been the authoress of the fine ballad of
Hardyknute, which so long puzzled the antiquaries
of the day, and to which Pinkerton wrote a second
part, which gave rise also to much controversy.
She is buried in a vault on the outside of the church
of Dunfermline. The Scottish troops were defeated
here by a detachment of Cromwell's forces under
Colonel Overton, on the 20th of July, 1651, when
3,000 fell, and 1,200 were taken prisoners.
The coal- works in this parish are very extensive ;
and an able account has been given of them by the
Rev. Peter Chalmers, in the ' Quarterly Journal of
Agriculture,' from which we have condensed the
following abstract: — The largest colliery is the
Elgin colliery, belonging to the Earl of Elgin. The
whole area of the coal-field belonging to him, wrought
and unwrought, may be stated at from 2,600 to 2,700
acres. About 800 or 900 of these, which are the
most southern, are nearly exhausted. A large por-
tion of this extensive coal-field Lord Elgin holds on
a lease of 999 years, from the Pitferrane family.
Almost all the coal partakes more or less of the
caking quality and soft texture of the Newcastle coal.
— A new pit has lately been opened near the West
Baldridge farm-house, named the Wallsend pit, which
is the deepest coal-shaft in Scotland, and probably
one of the most valuable. It is in depth 105 fathoms,
1 foot. There arc 19 beds of coal, containing alto-
DUNFERMLINE.
389
gether 49 feet, 8 inches of coal, which can be worked
in 13 separate divisions, by this pit Immediately
to the east of the Elgin is the Well wood colliery.
It is situated about a mile north of Dunfermline.
The coal from this work is extensively used in the
town of Dunfermline and neighbourhood, and a large
quantity of it is also exported, principally to France.
The steam-boats plying between Paris and Rouen
are almost entirely supplied with it. The quantity
of coals raised at this work, in 1839, was about
48,000 tons. The number of persons employed at
the work is 252 To the east of this colliery are
the Townhill and Appin collieries The next large
and old colliery, still farther to, the east, and 2A
miles from the town of Dunfermline, is that of Hall-
beath. The output at this work, in 1837, was
18,437 tons, a great proportion of which was ex-
ported. The coals exported are shipped at Inver-
keithing, whither they are carried by a railroad
A little way to the east a small colliery has been
lately begiui at Nether-beath, called the Cuttle-
hill colliery. About 2,000 tons have been sold an-
nually since the coal- work began; but they are
expected to increase. — Limestone is found and
wrought for sale on the lands of Broom-hall, Rosco-
bie, Lathalmond, and Dunduff. Those at Charles-
ton on Broomland lands, are the most extensive :
see that article. There are several whinstone and
freestone quarries in the parish. Iron-stone pervades
the whole coal-field of the Earl of Elgin, in thin
hands and balls, and was once wrought to the extent
of 4,000 to 5,000 tons per annum. Copper pyrites,
in small quantities, is found imbedded in the clay
iron-stone, with carbonate of lime, at the Elgin col-
liery.
Among the most eminent Scotsmen of the 15th
century was ' Maister Robert Henryson, scholmais-
ter of Dunfermling.' He was a poet of consider-
able fancy, and successfully attempted various styles
of composition. His longest poem, — ' The Testa-
ment of the Fair Cresseide,' — " contains," says Dr.
Irving, "many strokes of poetical description, which
a writer of more than ordinary genius could only
have produced." He wrote a number of fables in
verse, which convey useful lessons, but are rather
prolix. Of these, probably the best is ' The Bor-
rowstoun Mous, and the Land wart Mous.' His pas-
toral ' Robin and Makyne' displays a love of nature
and great sweetness of versification ; and his 'Abbey
Walk' is full of serious reflections. The learned
civilian, Edward Henryson, LL.D., seems to have
been the grandson of the poet. George Durie, abbot
of Dunfermline, was made an extraordinary lord of
session in July, 1541, and keeper of the privy-seal
in 1554. He died in 1561. Robert Pitcairn, abbot
of Dunfermline, was seeretary-of-state in 1570, which
office he held during the regencies of Lennox, Mar,
and Morton, and afterwards under James VI. Two
of the family of Seaton, Earls of Dunfermline, were
extraordinary lords-of-session ; and three of the ab-
bots of Dunfermline held the office of lord-high-
chancellor of Scotland. In 1839, the Right Hon.
Mr. Abercrombie, late speaker of the house of com-
mons, was called to the house of peers, by the title
of Baron Dunfermline of Dunfermline.
Malcolm III., surnamed Cean-mhor, or 'Great-
head,' resided chiefly, after his accession to the Crown,
at the tower which still bears his name, in the glen
of Pittencrieff, in the immediate neighbourhood of
the modern town of Dunfermline, and here he mar-
ried Margaret, a Saxon princess, who had, with her
brother Edgar, the heir of the English throne, fled
to Scotland for refuge from the Norman conqueror.
Margaret was the daughter of Edward, son of Ed-
mund Ironside, king of England. Upon William the
Conqueror ascending the English throne, Edgar, son
of Edward, with his mother Agatha, and two sisters,
Margaret and Christian, retired into Scotland. Some
authors say, that being on a voyage to Hungary, they
were accidentally driven thither by a storm. The
place in the frith where the ship anchored is a small
bay, about a mile north-west of North Queensferry,
near the present toll-bar. This bay is called St.
Margaret's Hope.* On the side of the present road,
near Pitreavie, about 2 miles from Dunfermline, is a
large stone called St. Margaret's stone. Here she
is said to have rested, leaning on this stone. North
and South Queensferry derive their name from St.
Margaret. " The site of Malcolm's tower," says
Mercer, in his excellent 'History of Dunfermline,'
" was strikingly adapted for a stronghold, and could
not fail of attracting a rude engineer of the 11th
century. Fordun says, it was a place extremely
strong by natural situation, and fortified by steep
rocks; in the middle of which there was a pleasant
level, likewise defended by rock and water, so that
it might be imagined that the following words were
descriptive of this place; — Non homini facilis, vix
adeunda feris. ' It is difficult to men, scarcely ac-
cessible by wild beasts.' The venusta planities, — or
' pleasant level ' on which the tower was built, — forms
the summit of a very steep eminence . that rises
abruptly out of the glen, and causes the rivulet to
wind round its base, forming a peninsula. The whole
substructure of the glen on both sides is formed of
freestone, which projects in many places from the
surface ; and these rugged declivities must have been
clothed with thick impervious woods, rendering the
summit extremely difficult of access on three sides."
At the request of his pious queen, and of her confessor,
Turgot, Malcolm founded and endowed a monastery
for 13 Culdees in the vicinity of his own residence,
which, with its chapel, was dedicated to the Holy
Trinity. The date of Malcolm's foundation must
have been between 1070, when he was married, and
1086, w-hen he and his queen made extensive grants
to the church of the Holy Trinity. Besides the
donations' from Malcolm to the church, his sons
Ethelred and Edgar, both bestowed lands upon it.
Alexander I. granted various lands to it, and is said
to have finished the church ; and his queen, Sibilla,
also conferred lands upon it. He died at Stirling,
but was interred at Dunfermline. David I., who
ascended the throne in 1124, in accordance with his
policy in other parts of the kingdom,. not only added
greatly to the wealth of the monastery, but intro-
duced into it a colony of the Benedictines, or Black
monks, from Canterbury in England; and for the
purpose of making the change of rides under which
they were brought more agreeable to the Culdees,
he raised it to the dignity of; an abbey, having a
mitred abbot for its head, and ^a prior and sub-prior
under him. From the style pjj the architecture, Mi-.
Leighton is.inelined to think that it was dining the
reign of David I. that the church — the nave of which
still remains — was .' erected', f." Gotfrid or Gaufrid,
who had been prior., of .'Canterbury, was the first
abbot. He died in 1 L54, and was succeeded by his
nephew, Gaufrid. From a statement made to the
Pope in 1231, it appears that the number of monks
had then been increased to 50. About the period of
the death of Alexander III., it had become one of
the most extensive and magnificent monastic estab-
* On a staircase in the house of Pennycuik, in Mid-Lothian,
there is a painting- which represents tile landing of Margaret at
the Hope, — the procession from thence to Dunfermline, — and
the king aud queen, the day after their marriage, entertaining
a number of mendicants. The procession is said to have been
on foot.
f In the library of the faculty of Advocates, in Edinburgh,
there is preserved a copy of St. Jerome's Latin Bible, in manu-
script, beautifully illuminated. This Bible — according to an
annexed note— is said to have been used iu the church of Dun-
fermline in the reign ui' David I.
390
DUNFERMLINE.
lishments in Scotland. Mathew of Westminster
says, that at this time "its boundaries were so ample,
— containing within its precincts three carrucates*
of land, and having so many princely buildings, —
that three potent sovereigns, with their retinues,
might have been accommodated with lodgings here,
at the same time, without incommoding one another."
When Edward of England invaded Scotland in 1303,
he resided in the abbey of Dunfermline from the 6th
of November that year till the 10th of February,
1304. At leaving it, Edward caused his army to
set it on fire. " On account," says Matthew of Paris,
"of its magnitude, the nobles of the kingdom were
accustomed to assemble here to devise plots against
Edward ; and, during war, they issued thence, and
proceeded to plunder and destroy the inhabitants of
England. The royal army, therefore, — perceiving
that they had converted the temple of the Lord into
a den of thieves, and that it gave great offence to
the English nation, — utterly destroyed it, by level-
ling all its splendid edifices to the ground; sparing
from the flames the church only, and a few lodgings
for monks." As soon as the kingdom was settled
under Bruce, this monastery was begun to be rebuilt,
but probably never regained its former grandeur.
According to Lindsay of Pitscottie, the abbey and
its church were finally destroyed on the 28th of
March, 1560. The last abbot was George Dune, of
the family of Durie of that ilk, who held the office
from 1530 till the destruction of the monastery. He
died in 1572. The abbey was richly endowed, and
derived part of its extensive revenue from places at
a considerable distance. Kirkaldy, Kinghorn, Burnt-
island, Musselburgh, and Inveresk belonged to this
abbey. According to a rental given up at the Re-
formation by Allan Gouts, in name of George Durie,
the abbot, the yearly revenue was as follows : —
Money £2,513 10s. 8d. Scots; wheat 28 c. 11 b.
1 f. ; bear, 102 c. 15 b. 1 f. 3 p. ; meal, 15 c. ; oats,
61 c. 6 b. 2 f. ; horse-corn, 29 c. 1 b. 1 f. 24 p. ;
butter, 34 St.; lime, 19 c. 15 b.; salt, 11 c. 8 b
According to another rental by the same person : —
Money, ±"2,404 4s. ; wheat, 27 c. 4 b. 3 f. ; bear,
83 c. 11 b. 2 f. 2 p. ; oats, 158 c. 5 b. 2 f., whereof
84 c. white oats; lime, 20 c; salt, 11 c. 8 b.; ca-
pons, 374; poultry, 746. f In 1560, Robert Pitcairn
* A earrucate of Kind was as much as could be tilled with a
plough in a year.
■f Some of the grants to the abbey — as appears from its char-
tulary, of which Mr. Dalzel has given an analysis in his ' Mo-
nastic Antiquities ' — were of a singular nature, and may not be
unworthy of particular notice. David I. grants to the abbey,
"iimuetn decimam de auro quod mihievenietde Fif et Fothrik,"
the tenth part of all the gold he should derive from File and
Fothrik. The latter term, Lord Hailes says, is compounded of
Forth and rick, i. e. * the kingdom or territory at the Forth ;'
and he supposes that it means that district on the northern bank
*(f the Forth, from the neighbourhood of Stirling to where the
river is lost in the salt water. In Hay's 'Scotia Sacra,' the
monastery of Dunfermline is said to be in Fothrick moor; and
on the north side of the parish there is a moor which still re-
tains the name of Patrick moor. By a charter of confirmation,
the same monarch grants to the abbey the seventh — after the
tithe — of all the seals caught at Kinghorn. — Bastards, it would
appear, were in. general excluded from monasteries : Pope In-
nocent, at the request of the abbot of Dunfermline, grauts him
permission to admit one bastard into the number of his monks
with this exception, "dummodo turn sit de adulterio, vel inces-
tuoso coitu procreatus." — Malcolm IV. grants to the abbot and
monks the heads— the tongues excepted — of certain fishes sup-
posed to be a small kind of whales then occasionally caught in
some particular district of the Forth near the abbey-church.
The words of the grant are, " Pro salute animae predecessoris
mei Davidis Regis, capita piscium qui dicuntur crespeis prieter
linguain, qui in men Dominio ex ilia parte Scottwater apnli-
cuerint, in qua parte illorutn ecclesia sit est." Malcolm IV.
gave them a graotof the hall of the blubber — "dimidium sagi-
minis" of the crdtpeis which should be taken between the Tay
nil J Forth, for the use of the church — "ad lmmnaria coram
altaril.us preuominatrc ecclesiae." — Several indulgences granted
by different pontiffs are recorded in the chartulary. As oil of
olives cuuld not be procured within the diocese of St. Andrews.
Pope Nicholas, by bull in 1-159, grants a free indulgence to the
monks of this nhln-y to miike use ol butter — et aliis lacticiniis —
duiiog Lent, and on all other days when animal food was for-
was appointed commendator of the abbey, thus ob-
taining a right to its lands and rents, which he held
till his death in 1584. The Master of Gray suc-
ceeded him, but was extruded in 1587, when Henry
Pitcairn succeeded him. In 1589, the abbey, with
its lands and privileges, was erected into a temporal
lordship, which was conferred upon Anne of Den-
mark, queen of James VI. In 1593, Queen Anne
appointed Alexander Seton, 3d son of George, 6th
Lord Seton, heritable bailie of her lordship of Dun-
fermline. Alexander Seton was appointed chancel-
lor of Scotland in 1604, and the following year was
raised to the peerage by the title of Earl of Dun-
fermline. This title became extinct in 1694, by the
death of James, 4th Earl, without male issue; and,
he being then under forfeiture, the whole estates re-
verted to the Crown. Charles I. granted to Charles,
2d Earl of Dunfermline, a lease for 57 years, of the
feu-duties and rents of the lordship of Dunfermline,
with the office of heritable bailie of the regality;
which was in 1665 assigned to John, Earl of Tweed-
dale, for a debt due to him by the Earl of Dunferm-
line. In 1669, John, then Marquis of Tweeddale,
had his office of bailie, &c., vested in himself by
royal charter; and in 1693, obtained a prorogation
of the lease of the lordship, in his own name, for 57
years. In 1748, the office of heritable bailie was
abolished with other heritable jurisdictions in Scot-
land ; but the office of heritable keeper of the palace
is still retained by the Marquis of Tweeddale, who
enjoys the fees of constable, mayor, and Serjeant of
the lordship.
Although the ruins of the ancient abbey which
still remain, are sufficient to afford a glimpse of what
must have been its former grandeur, yet they are but
a trilling portion of the extensive conventual build-
ings which must have existed here, even subsequent
to the demolition. The western portion, or nave of
the abbey-church — . which was originally a cross
church — is still in tolerably good preservation; and
is a fine specimen of the architecture of the age in
which it was erected. It is generally said to be in
the Saxon style of architecture; but Mr. Leighton
is inclined to think that the style is Norman. The
principal entrance to the abbey-church is from the
west, where there is a very finely enriched door-way
in the Norman style, and above this a handsome
pointed window, divided by mullions and transoms.
In the north side there is another entrance from
what is now the churchyard, by a porch of later
erection, which is in the pointed style. The roof
of the nave is supported by a double row of splendid
Norman pillars, from which spring round arches to
support the upper wall, and at the west end by a
clustered column on each side ; a clustered pilaster
from which springs a pointed arch, also supporting
the upper wall. These columns likewise separate
the body of the nave from the north and south aisles.
The outside of the building is ornamented by two
heavy towers at the west end, one of which is sur-
mounted by a spire, and the sides by heavy but-
tresses characteristic of the style of the building.
Immediately to the south of the abbey-church are
the ruins of the fratery, or refectory, which formed
the dining-hall of the monastery. Its south wall,
from the windows of which there is a magnificent
view, and the west gable, in which there is one of
the finest pointed windows in Scotland, alone re-
main. The only other portion of the monastic build-
ings existing is the gateway of the monastery — now
bidden They possessed a monopoly of the ferry betwixt
Queensferry and lnverkeithiug, on condition that those be-
longing to the court, as also strangers and messengers, should
have a free passage. They had likewise the customs of vessels
entering the hiirbour of Inveresk, or Musselburgh, which was
under their jurisdiction.
DUNFERMLINE.
301
called tlie Pends — which exhibits a fine specimen of
the pointed style of architecture. Mr. Swan has
Riven views of the Norman porch, and of the Inte-
rior and Exterior of the old Abbey-church in his
elegant work entitled ' Fife Illustrated ' [Glasgow :
1839-40. 3 vols. 4to.]. The abbey-church was long
the place of sepulture of our Scottish kings. Here
Malcolm Canmore and his queen St. Margaret were
interred, also their eldest son, Edward, who was
killed in Jedwood forest. Edmond their second son,
and another named Ethelrade, who was Earl of Fife,
King Edgar, Alexander I. with Sibilla his queen,
David I. with his two wives, Malcolm IV., and
Alexander III., with his queen Margaret and his son
Alexander, were also here entombed. The great
Bruce, too, the saviour of his country, was here laid
at rest from his many toils, with his queen Elizabeth,
and his daughter Christina, the widow of Sir An-
drew Murray. The remains of these distinguished
individuals were all interred in the choir, which
forms the site of the present church. In digging for
the foundation of the new parish-church in February,
1818, the tomb of Robert Bruce was discovered, and
his skeleton found wrapt in lead.* On a subsequent
day, the tomb was again opened in presence of the
Barons of Exchequer, several literary gentlemen
from Edinburgh, the magistrates of the town, and
the neighbouring gentry. A cast of the skull having
been taken, the stone-coffin in which the remains
lay was filled with melted pitch; it was then built
over with mason-work, and the pulpit of the new
church now marks the spot where all that remains
on earth of the patriotic warrior is deposited. Many
of our great nobles were also buried in this church ;
among whom may be mentioned, the great Macduff;
Constantine, Earl of Fife ; William Ramsay, Earl of
Fife ; the Earl and Countess of Athol, in the reign
of William the Lyon; Randolph, Earl of Moray, the
compatriot of Bruce ; and Robert, Duke of Albany,
governor of Scotland. Many churchmen also of
great power and influence were interred here. After
the accession of Alexander, our Scottish kings fre-
quently resided on the south side of the Forth, but
they occasionally also resided at Dunfermline. When
they gave up their residence in the old tower is not
known, but at an early period a palace or castle
appears to have been erected adjoining the monas-
tery, and on the site of the present ruins of the
palace. James IV., after his accession to the Crown,
was more here than any of his immediate predeces-
sors; and he appears to have either entirely rebuilt
or greatly enlarged the palace, and added to its
height, as in 1812 a stone was found in the roof of
one of the windows bearing the date of 1500. James
V. and his daughter Queen Mary also resided here;
and James VI., previous to his departure for Eng-
land, appears often to have had his residence in the
palace, where Charles I. is said to have been born.
In July, 1033, this unfortunate monarch visited Dun-
fermline, where he held a court, and created Sir
Robert Kerr of Ancrum, ancestor of the Marquis of
Lothian, Earl of Ancrum, and dubbed five gentle-
* According to Fordun, Robert Bruce was buried in* the
middle of the choir. Barbour thus describes tlte inhumation
of this illustrious restorer of the Scottish monarchy :
They haiff had hi in to Dunferlyne,
And him solemnly yirded syne,
In a fair tomb into the quire;
Bishops and prelats that were there
Assoilzied him, when the service
Was done, as tiiey best could devise ;
And syne, upon the other day,
Sorry and wo they went their way.
And he dehowelled was cleanly.
And also balmed syne full richly ;
And the worthy Lord of Douglas,
His heart, as it forspokeu was,
Received has in great ilewtie,
With fair and great solemnities
men knights. In August, 1650, Charles II. re-
mained several days in the palace, and here that
monarch subscribed the national league and covenant,
which was the last occasion of the palace receiving
a royal visit. From this time it appears to have
been entirely neglected, and in 1708 the roof fell in.
It is now a complete ruin ; all that remains being
the south wall, and a sunk vaulted apartment tradi-
tionally called the King's kitchen. The length of
the palace seems to have been 150 feet by 33 in
breadth. The remaining walls were several years
ago repaired, and put into a state in which they may
still last for ages, by James Hunt, Esq., the pro-
prietor of the estate of Pittencrieff on which they
are situated.
The town of Dunfermline owes its origin to
the neighbourhood of the palace and the monas-
tery, and for a long period was only a burgh-of-re-
gality holding of the abbot and monks. In 1588 it
was erected into a royal burgh by James VI., who
conferred upon it about 900 acres of inuirland, situ-
ated to the north and east of the town. At this
time it could be little more than a village, as in 1000
it is said to have contained only about 1,000 inhabi-
tants. At the commencement even of the )8th
century it was almost without trade ; but in 1718 a
small factory for the weaving of table-linen was
established, since which time the increase of its
manufactures and of its wealth has been gradual and
progressive. It is now remarkable for this branch of
the linen-trade, which has proved a source of much
wealth to the town and many of its inhabitants. In
1 740 the society of weavers was instituted, and manu-
factures were increasing; but in 1745 it was found
difficult to raise .£80, the cess laid upon the town by
Prince Charles. About 1749 the British Linen
company — then just established — began to employ a
number of looms in the town for weaving table-linen ;
but the weavers wrought chiefly at ticks ajid checks
during the winter, and only in the summer at table-
linen. About 1763 the table-linen of Dunfermline
first found its way to the London market. From
this period the manufactures and wealth of the town
began more rapidly to increase; improvements have
been made on the mechanism of the looms, great
skill and taste displayed in the devices introduced
into the cloth, and a variety of other goods have
been brought into the market through the enterprise
of the manufacturers. The spinning of linen yarn
has been extensively carried on since 1806, when it
was first introduced. Table-linen is still the chief
manufacture ; but table-covers, either wholly of cot-
ton, or of worsted on cotton, and a few counter-
panes, are also made. The annual value of this
description of goods manufactured has been estimated
at £374,000 sterling.f The number of looms em.
f " In tlie infancy of the trade, it was the custom to
weave diaper only during the summer, the winter being em
ployed in weaving ticks and checks. This practice continued
till about the year 1749, when the manufacture of ticks and
checks was in a great measure relinquished. Since the above
period the diaper trade has been gradually increasing; in 17s8
there were about 900, and last year (1702) no less than 1,'JOu
looms employed in the trade ; of this number, above SOO he-
longed to the parish. The value of goods annually manufac-
tured has for some time past been from £50.000 to £60,000
sterling, and the trade was on the increase. Astonishing im-
provements have been made within less than hnlf-n-century in
the art of weaving, and in tlte manufacture of table-linen. By
the introduction of machinery labour has been greatly abridged.
Fnrmerly, in weaving diaper, two, and sometimes three persons,
were requisite for one web ; now, by means of the fly-shuttle,
and what is called a frame for raising the figure, a single wea-
ver can work a web 2£ yards broad without the least assistance.
Many of the tradesmen in this place discover considerable genius
in drawing figures for the diaper, and several of them have ob-
tained premiums for their draughts. Table cloths can be fur-
nished of any desired breadth, length, and fineness; and noble-
men and gentlemen may have their eoais.of-arms and mottos
wrought into any table-linen they may choose to commission.
In tlie chest of the incorporation there is preserved a very curious
392
DUNFERMLINE.
ployed by the manufacturers of Dunfermline in 1836,
was 3,519; of which 2,273 were employed in weav-
ing table-linen, 462 in table-covers and counterpanes,
13 in woollen goods, and of 771 it was not ascer-
tained how they were employed. In 1838 there
were 3,000 looms in the town and suburbs employed
in this manufacture, and 741 in Kinross, Strathmiglo,
Leslie, Falkland, &c. ; making, in all, 3,741. The
total number of persons in Dunfermline employed in
this trade, in 1838, was 6,438; viz., weavers, 3,000;
winders, 1,100; children of weavers, 1,900; warpers
and warehousemen, 150; yarn-boilers, men and wo-
men, 30; yarn-bleachers, ditto, 40; cloth-bleachers,
ditto, 150; lapping and dressing cloth, 30; cutting
patterns, men and boys, 20; pattern drawers, 8;
dyers, 10. About one-third in value of the goods
are exported to America and other places abroad.
There are five mills for spinning linen-yarn in the
parish ; but one of these has not been working for
the last twelve months. The yarns spun are of
various qualities from tow and flax, and are used in
the manufacture of table-linen, diapers, tickings,
sheetings, towelings, and plain linens. A portion is
also used in the manufacture of plain and coloured
threads. There are also here an iron and brass
foundry, candle and soap works, a tan-work, rope-
work, tobacco manufactories, and brick-works.
Dunfermline stands on an eminence of consider-
able extent, stretching from east to west, about 270
feet above the level of the sea, from which it is 3 miles
distant, and having a pretty steep and uniform de-
clivity to the south. It is about 16 miles north-west
from Edinburgh ; 6 from North Queensferry ; 13 from
Kirkaldy ; and 30 from Cupar. The prospect towards
the south, south-east, and south-west is extensive
and varied ; stretching over the frith of Forth to the
opposite coast, with all its rich and varied scenery.
The greater part of the town is situated on a rising
ground, having a pretty bold declivity towards the
south; the ground, however, soon flattens, so that
what is called the Nethertown stands on a plain.
It commands an excellent view of Edinburgh, the
castle, Arthur's seat, and the elevated grounds in
the vicinity of the metropolis; in clear weather dif-
ferent spires of the city can be distinguished by the
naked eye. Immediately in view are the opposite
and fertile banks of the Forth, comprehending a part
of Mid and West Lothians, Binnylavv, the pleasure-
grounds northward of Hopetoun, and the borough of
Queensferry. The frith is a most pleasant object,
and in its course from near the North ferry up to-
wards Culross, — sometimes concealed by an elevated
shore, but here and there breaking forth in varied
openings, — greatly enlivens and diversifies the beauty
of the scene. From the church-steeple there are seen
parts of fourteen different counties. The most dis-
tant and remarkable places are Soutra-hill in the shire
of Berwick, Tinto in Lanark, Benlomond in Dum-
barton, Benledi in Perth, the Lammermoors in Had-
dington, the Campsie and Logie hills in Stirling, and
the Pentland bills in Mid-Lothian ; Hopetoun-house,
the castle of Blackness, Borrowstounness, the bo-
rough of Culross, and the beautiful windings of the
Forth from Leith near to Stirling castle. In ap-
proaching the town from any direction it has a fine
appearance, and, with its splendid church and spires,
forms a most imposing object in the landscape. In
the business parts of the town the streets, though
generally rather narrow, are well-built, and care has
been taken to improve them. The greatest improve-
speeimen of the wpaving art; it is a man's shirt wrought in
the loom about 100 years ago, by a weaver of this place of the
name of Ingles. The shirt is without seam, and was finished
by the ingenious artizan without the least assistance from the
needle ; the only necessary part he could not accomplish was a
button lor tlie tieck." — Old Statistical Account,
ment, however, was that made by the late George
Chalmers, Esq. of Pittencrieff, on the approach from
the west. He threw a bridge 297 feet in length
across the glen in which the Tower burn flows, with
a mound raised about it 50 feet in height, solely at
his own expense. This bridge forms now one of the
best streets in the town, having good shops and
well-built houses upon it. The houses along the
principal thoroughfares are generally well-built, and
have the appearance of respectability and comfort;
and within late years the town has been greatly en-
larged by a handsome suburb on the west, and by
additions to the cross streets. Many neat villas and
houses, surrounded by gardens and pleasure-grounds,
occupy the outskirts of the town, and are inhabited
by persons connected with the burgh.' From the
industry and enterprise of the inhabitants, and the
advantage of a large supply of excellent coal in the
immediate neighbourhood, it seems probable that the
population and manufactures will continue to in-
crease, and the town to extend itself in proportion.
The population appears to consist almost entirely of
persons actively engaged in business. The principal
public buildings are the abbey-church already no-
ticed ; the town-hall, and the jail — which is an old
building near the cross, very inadequate for the pur-
poses required; the guild-hall, an elegant building
with a fine spire, partly fitted up as an inn; the
academy, and several churches and chapels.
The town is governed by a provost, 2 bailies, a
guild-magistrate, a treasurer, 17 other councillors,
and a town-clerk. The provost and magistrates
have the jurisdiction within the royalty as extended
by the police act in 1811. They hold regular courts,
the town-clerk acting as their assessor. There is a
guildry, the dean of which has the power of judging
in all questions of boundary of property, &c. This
incorporation possesses property to the annual value
of;£350 per annum. There are eight incorporated
trades, — wrights, tailors, smiths, weavers, shoe-
makers, bakers, masons, and fleshers. In 1811 a
police act was obtained, which not only regulates
the police of the town, but contains powers for pav-
ing, lighting, and cleaning the streets, for removing
nuisances and obstructions therefrom, for opening
new and widening the present streets, and likewise
for increasing the supply of water for the burgh.
The provisions of this act were at the same time
extended over the suburbs of the town, with the
exception of that of Pittencrieff. The town was in
consequence divided into wards, by each of which
commissioners are appointed for carrying the pro-
visions of the act into effect, and by whom the su-
perintendent of police and other necessary officers
are appointed. The necessary funds are raised by
an assessment on the inhabitants. This act has pro-
duced great improvements in the town The present
property of Dunfermline consists of the farms of
Highholm, Muircockhall, Lilliehill, Cairncubie, and
part of the town's muir, with the coal under these
lands, which for some years has been worked on ac-
count of the burgh. These lands comprehend 700
Scots acres or thereby, 180 of which are planted.
The burgh likewise possesses 3 or 4 acres of land,
known by the name of Halliblade acres. The house-
property of the burgh consists of the workmen's
houses at the town-colliery, the flesh-market, slaugh-
ter-house, and washing-house, the town-house, high
school, and charity-school in Priory-lane. The burgli
is likewise possessed of a number of seats in the par-
ish-church. The whole value of the burgh-property,
taking in the land rental at 30 years' purchase, in
consideration of the value of the minerals, and the
value put on the wood and houses by a professional
man, is stated to be £19,501 5s. 10^(1. The town-
DUNFERMLINE.
393
house, high school, and Priory-lane school, are esti-
mated at £2,150 more. The only alienation of the
burgh's real property of any consequence within the
last 40 years was part of the lands lying immediately
south of those still belonging to the burgh, which
were sold to Mr. Downie of Appin, in 1829, for the
price of .£14,105. The annual revenue of the burgh
was estimated in 1834 at about £870, composed of
£
8.
a.
Land, coat rents, and wood, about ■
730
0
0
Keuts of houses, &c.
35
0
0
Fen-duties ....
1
10
0
Custom and market dues, about .
100
0
0
Burgess entries, about . ■
2
0
0
£S6S 10 0
The estimated gross annual expenditure of the
town was reported at the same date as follows :
£ s. d.
Yearly salaries, ahnut . . • 65 0 0
Interest of debt, about . . . 600 0 0
Aliment to prisoners, about . . 15 0 0
Stipend and school salaries . . 38 0 0
Feu-duties
Repairs on property, gaol, &c.
3 12 0
10 0 0
£731 12 0
In this view the ordinary income should exceed the
necessary expenditure by £136 18s. The actual re-
venue for the year ending 31st December, 1S32, was
£1,241 18s. 8d. The expenditure for the same year
was £1,309. The debt of the burgh in 1694 was
5.573 merks, equal to £309 lis. 2d. sterling.
From the records of the burgh it appears that it
was so poor, in 1701, as to apply for pecuniary aid
to the convention, and in the year 1745 it was
obliged to borrow the small fine imposed upon it
by Prince Charles. From that time the debt of the
burgh has been constantly increasing; but of late it
has been nearly stationary.
In 1788, the debt had increased to
— 1793, it had increased to
— 1S0S, it amounted to
£3,000
5,000
10,450
The debt, as returned to parliament under the
order of Julv, 1832, was,
£ i. d.
October, 1S27 20,795 0 8J
— 1S23 20,339 16 2
_ IS29 15,035 13 1
— 1S:)0 15,040 19 10
— 1831 . .... 14,653 9 4
The burgh has no patronage, but in the appointment
of the clerk, chamberlain, fiscal, and town's officers.
There are 8 fairs or public markets during the year ;
and two weekly markets, — one on Tuesday for the
sale of grain by sample, which is well-attended by
the neighbouring agriculturists ; and one on Friday
for butter, cheese, eggs, &c. Since October, 1S29,
the town and suburbs have been lighted with gas.
The annual value of the real property within the
burgh, in 1815, was £10,900 sterling.
The great distance of the western district of the
county from the county-town, led to the appoint-
ment of a separate sheriff-substitute for that district,
who holds courts weekly during time of session, and
at fixed intervals during vacation. A court for the
recovery of small debts is held by the sheriff twice
every month during session, and once a month dur-
ing vacation. A justice-of-peace court is also held
once a month for the recovery of small debts ; and,
as occasion requires, for cases of assault, poaching,
trespass, and petty breaches of the peace. Dunferm-
line is the seat of a presbytery. In conj unction with
the burghs of Inverkeithing, Culross, South Queens-
ferry, and Stirling, Dunfermline sends a member to
parliament. The district-meetings of the commis-
sioners of supply and of the road-trustees are held in
this burgh. There are branches of four banks in the
town, viz., of the bank of Scotland, the British
Linen company, the Commercial bank of Scotland,
and the National bank. There is also a National
security savings bank. Since its institution the man-
agers have invested in the National debt office, the
sum of £12,737, which, with a balance in the Com-
mercial bank of £318, makes the whole amount of
principal and interest constituting the funds of the
bank £13,055 sterling.
Although there is no parochial school in the parish,
education is well-provided for in the town. The
burgh or high school is under the management of the
magistrates and kirk-session. The school -house is
elegant and commodious, with a dwelling-house for
the teacher. The branches of education taught
are Greek, Latin, English, mathematics, geography,
writing, and arithmetic. The master has an usher
under him, by whom English, writing, and arith-
metic are taught, while the higher branches are
taught by himself. Besides his fees the master has
a salary from the town, and the interest of a morti-
fication left by Queen Anne to the magistrates for
that purpose, amounting to £22 12s. 6d. The com-
mercial academy is under the direction of the guildry,
which body erected the school-house, a handsome
building, with dwellings for the teachers, who are
two in number. In this academy the same branches
of education are taught as in the burgh school. The
late Adam Ro'land, Esq. of Gask, left a donation of
£1,000 sterUng for the purpose of establishing a
charity-school, under the direction of a committee of
managers partly chosen by the town-council, and
partly by subscribers. The teacher is bound to
educate gratis 50 scholars presented by the managers,
and is allowed to take in an additional number of
pupils, from whom moderate fees are charged. His
salary is £32. The Lancasterian system of educa-
tion has been adopted in this institution, which is
erected in Priory-lane. Besides these there are
several other private schools in the town, and
several well-conducted schools in the different po-
pulous villages already mentioned. The Dunferm-
line town-library was instituted in 1789, and con-
tains a good collection of books; the tradesman's
library contains 1,800 volumes. The abbey-church
library is well-selected ; and there are besides several
congregational and circulating libraries. There is
a public reading-room in one of the rooms in the guild-
hall, which is well-supplied with metropolitan and
provincial journals. Dunfermline has a scientific
association, a phrenological society, and two hor-
ticultural societies. An agricultural society, — called
the Western district of Fife Agricultural society, —
had its origin in two societies of the same nature,
previously existing, the ' Chicken Pye club,' begun
in 1760, by a society of landed proprietors of the
district, and the * Dunfermline Western district
Society of Farmers,' instituted in 1765. These
societies were conjoined in 1834. A curling-club
was instituted in 1784, and a Burns club in 1812.
— This parish is in the presbytery of Dunfermline
and synod of Fife. From the time of the Reforma-
tion the nave of the old abbey-church, having been
repaired, served as the parish-church of Dunfermline,
j while the choir remained a complete ruin. The ne-
i cessity of additional church-accommodation having
been long felt, the new church was begun in 1818,
and opened for divine service'in 1821. It is in itself
an elegant building, in the pointed style, with hand-
some perpendicular windows. It is surmounted by
a fine tower, terminated by a balustrade, on which
the name of Robert Bruce, king of Scots, has been
introduced in open letters. The charge is collegiate.
Patron of both charges, the Crown. Stipend of the-
1st charge £282 4s. 2d., with a glebe of the value of
£34; of the 2d, £282 4s. 2d., without a manse or-
glebe. Unappropriated Crown tenuis £C41 5s. 9d. ;
394
DUNFERMLINE.
of private teinds £2\l 3s. 8d. It is an original par-
ish ; but many lands originally belonging to it have
been united to the parishes of Beath and Carnock.
Ifc comprehends the quoad sacra parish of St. An-
drews, erected in 1835. Church built in 1821 ;
sittings 2,051* — There is a United Secession congre-
gation at Limekilns : which see. — Another United
Secession congregation was formed in this parish in
1788. Their church, in Chalmers-street, was built
in 1789; cost .£700; sittings 430. Stipend £128—
A 3d congregation in connection with the Secession
exists at Crossgates : which see. — An Original Bur-
gher congregation was established in 1799. Church
built in 1801 ; sittings 600. Stipend £122— A 4th
United Secession congregation was established in
May gate, in 1832. Church bought in 1833 for £440;
sittings 410. Stipend £120. — A Roman Catholic
congregation was established in 1823. — A congrega-
tion calling itself the Holy Catholic Apostolic con-
gregation appeared in 1834. — St. Andrew's parish is
formed of a portion of the town, which contains above
3,000 inhabitants. The church was built in 1833;
sittings 797. Stipend £120, with manse and garden
— In this parish is St. Margaret's United Secession
congregation, established in 1826. Church built in
1S28; sittings 979. Stipend £175. — Queen Anne-
street United Secession church was built in 1800;
sittings 1,642. Stipend £200, with manse and gar-
den.— A Relief congregation was established in 1752.
Church built in 1776; sittings 520. Stipend £150,
with manse and garden. — A Baptist congregation was
established about 1805. Church built in 1836; sit-
tings 310. — There is also a recently formed Inde-
pendent church. — According to a census of the quoad
sacra parish of Dunfermline made in 1836, of a po-
pulation of 14,253, there were in connexion with
the Establishment 5,385, and belonging to other de-
nominations 8,408; and in the quoad sacra parish
of St. Andrews, out of a population of 3,033, 1,621
were in connexion with the Establishment, and 1,368
with other denominations. — There were no fewer
than 30 private schools in this parish in 1834, attend-
ed by about 2,400 children. Of these 3 were infant-
schools. — Queen Anne-street United Secession church
was originally built for the celebrated Ralph Erskine,
who, while one of the parish-ministers of Dunferm-
line, was expelled from his charge for declining the
authority of the supreme ecclesiastical court, and
became one of the fathers of the Secession church.*
* The parishioners of Kinross had given a call to a Mr. Fran-
cis Craig:, but another pert on— Mr. Stark— had received the
presentation. As this latter gentleman had scarcely a single
vote, the presbytery of Dunfermline refused to ordain him.
The commission of the general assembly, thereupon, appointed
a .sub-committee to proceed to Kinross and effect a settlement.
Against this unconstitutional proceeding complaints and peti.
tiuns were presented both by the parishioners and by the pres-
bytery; but these were rejected, and the presbytery were
enjoined to enrol and acknowledge Mr. Stark as one of their
number. Mr. Ralph Erskine and others tendered a protest
against this decision, but the clerk was prohibited from enter-
ing it on the records of the assembly. The matter did not
rest here, for a complaint being made at next meeting of
assembly, in 1733, that the presbytery hud refused to enrol Mr.
Stark, the recusant brethren were forthwith summoned to tlie
bar of the court, and sharply rebuked for their disobedience ;
and a committee was appointed to meet with such of the breth-
ren of the Dunfermline presbytery as were in town, and to get
Mr. Stark judicially enrolled. The presbytery were more-
over, commanded to encourage and strengthen the hands of Mr.
Stark in the work of the ministry, and they were forbidden to
offer or receive any protest against his sitting and acting as a
member of their court. " Upon the principles of Strict Presby-
teriau government," says Mr. M'Kerrow, the historian of the
Secession church, " the members of the Dunfermline presbytery
cannot, in this instance, be vindicated from the charge o( con-
tumacy, in refusing compliance with the decision of the supreme
court ; either thoy ought formally to have declined its authority,
as some of them afterwards did, when they joined the Secession,
or while they continued to profess subjection, they ought to
have obeyed. At the same time, the conduct of the assembly
and of their commission was arbitrary in a high degree, and pe-
culiarly calculated to excite opposition." Ebene/.er Erskine had
early joined the Seceding party, or rather had been the princi.
The pulpit which this excellent and eloquent man
rilled in the old kirk of Dunfermline was made into
two small side-tables, which are now in the hall of
Abbotsford, the side- walls of which are lined, to the
height of 7 feet, with a beautifully carved pannelling
oi dark oak from the same edifice. — There are several
pal organ in declaring a secession from the church, and in the
formation of the Associate presbytery: See article Stirling.
His brother of Dunfermline, however, did not yive in his open
adherence to the Associate presbytery until February, 1737.
On this occasion, Mr. Ralph Erskine stated that though he
withdrew, for the present, from the National church, and
joined his brethren of the Secession, yet he did not by this in-
tend withdrawing from ministerial communion with those pious
ministers of the Establishment, who were *' groaning under, or
wrestling against, the defections of the times." "Neither,"
said he, "do 1 hereby intend to preclude myself from the liber-
ty of returning and joining with the judicatories of this church,
upon their returning to their duty ; and, so far as my joining
with the foresaid, or any other ministers, in their lifting up
the said testimony, and promoting the end and design thereof,
and the said return can consist together ; seeing if the judica-
tories, who at present either unjustly refuse, or unduly delay to
receive that testimony, were acting a contrary part, and put-
ting hand to reformation, the same reasons that induce to this
withdrawing, would necessarily induce to a returning, which
I cordially wish I may quickly see good reason for." It was
not in fact until the meeting of the general assembly in 1740,
that Mr. Ralph Erskine was formally depu-ed. In the interim
a curious contest was carried on between Mr. Erskine and his
colleague Mr. Ward I aw, of which Mr. Mercer has given some
account from a manuscript journal kept at the time by an eye-
witness apparently, of which the following are extracts : —
" Dunfermline, October 28th, 1739. The session resumed the
consideration of their former resolutions of suspending their
connection with the present judicatories of the established
church. The plurality of the members present declared they
were for continuing in an interpendent situation, without hold-
ing a connection with the established church ; and agreed that
this overture should be read before the session upon Siibbath
the Uth of November, to be approveu or disappruveu of by
them.
" After this a pulpit-war commenced 'twixt Mr. Erskine and
Mr. VVardlaw, which continued till Mr. Erskine was put out
of the kirk. What Mr. Erskine spoke in the forenoon, with
respect to the defections and backslidings of the Established
church, and the lawfulness and necessity of the brethren to se-
parate from them, Mr. Wardlaw contradicted in the afternoon,
saying, that the Associate presbytery were unnatural children,
and ought to have pied with their mother; and that it was at
best a setting up altar against altar. Much was said on both
sides, and many scriptures cited.
"May 11th, 1740. This day Mr. Erskine's turn was to preach
in the tent, forenoon; and knowing he was to meet with op-
position in assaying to preach in the old kirk in the afternoon,
gave suitable exhortations to the congregation how to behave,
whatever should fall out, it being the Lord's day; and also, that
he was to be with his brother Eheuezer, at the sacrament in
Stirling, next Lord's day ; Mr. White, probationer, to preach
for him, here, that day. That the congregation should wait in
the church-yard till they saw if he got entrance, if nut to return
to the other place of worship. Accordingly, this afternoon Mr.
Hardy, minister in Culross, being appointed to take possession
of Mr. Erskine's pulpit, whose diet it was this sabbath, the
Established party came a little after the second bell, and caused
lock the porch-door, as the ministers always entered the east
door. Mr. Erskine's congregation were mostly without, in the
church-yard, the east door was guarded by David Black of Hid,
Bailie Chalmers, Bailie John Walker, and others, to keep out
Mr. Erskine ; but when he came through the church. yard with
Mr. Brisson, many following, as they came near the east kirk
door, Mr. Brisson cried out, ' Make way fur your minister.'
Upon this, some rushed in, others that were within soon turn
ed back the gentlemen door-keepers, neither could they get the
door shut, so that when Mr. Erskine came forward none of his
opposers had power or courage to make the least resistance
against him; his presence struck a terror in them. The way
to the pulpit was lined on every side, so that Mr. Erskine
had :i full and free entry to it. During all this time Mr. Hardy
was in the session-house, trembling; for he would not mount
the pulpit till he saw if Mr. Erskine was kept out of the kirk j
and when the small scuffle was at the kirk-door, he called to
lock the session-house door ; and when the kirk was composed,
and the psalms singing, he went forth, with his gentlemen door-
keepers, to Bailie John Walker's house, but was in such con-
fusion and disorder, that when they called for a dram, he could
not ask a blessing on it (as was said).
" May ISth. This day Mr. Erskine assisting at a sacrament in
Stirling, and Mr. White being to preach the forenoon in the
kirk ; but Mr. Geddes, the other minister in Culross, and Mr,
George Eddie took early possession of the pulpit; and when
Mr. White came to the kirk, the pulpit was tilled, and he re-
fused entrance; so he, and our congregation, returned to our
own place of worship.
'* This week Mr. Hugh Forbes came to Dunfermline, and
visited Mr. Erskine; and, speaking of our affairs, desired Mr.
Erskine to make no more attempts to force himself into the es-
tablished kirk of Dunfermline, as he wished him well, and that
if he did, the consequences might not be comfortable, as it bor-
dered upon rebellion ; so wc never afterward attempted it."
DUNGLASS CASTLE.
39£
mortifications for the benefit of the poor in the town
and parish. 1. St. Leonard's hospital, which is very
ancient, and the founder of which is not known.
The hospital-buildings were situated at the suburb
called the Spittal, but are long since removed. The
rent of 64 acres of land were mortified for the main-
tenance of 8 widows, each of whom was entitled to
8 bolls meal, 4 bolls malt, 8 lippies fine wheat, 8
lippies of groats, and 2 shillings of silver annually,
and an apartment in the hospital. The Marquis of
Tweeddale exercises the patronage 2. In 1075, Sir
Henry Wardlaw of Pitreavie founded an hospital at
the village of Mastertown, called the Pitreavie hos-
pital, for the benefit of 4 widows, with which he
burdened a portion of the lands of Mastertown.
Each widow is to receive 6 bolls meal, or 3 bolls
groats, and 3 bolls of bear, at the patron's option,
annually, and an apartment in the hospital 3. At
the death of the last Episcopal clergyman of the par-
ish in 1710, GOO merks Scots (£33 6s. 8d. sterling)
■was found in the poors' box, which was mortified for
the use of the poor. The town pays the interest
yearly, — one-half to the poor of the burgh, and the
other half to the poor of the landward part of the
parish 4. John Reid, a shopkeeper in the burgh,
mortified some land for the use of poor persons who
had at one time been in good worldly circumstances,
under the management of certain trustees. The re-
venues belonging to this mortification have been
greatly increased from the feuing of the land ; and in
1827, the yearly rental was £140 sterling. The
guildry and the different incorporations also give
weekly or monthly allowances from their funds to
decayed members, and widows of members of their
several bodies.
DUNGLASS CASTLE, a stronghold in East
Lothian, which stood on the west side of the roman-
tic little rivulet which separates Oldhamstocks parish
in East Lothian from Berwickshire, on the spot
where the elegant modern seat of Sir James Hall,
Bart., is r*>w situated. It was originally one of the
many strongholds of the Earls of Home. After the
attainder of Lord Home in 1516, it appears occasion-
ally to have been held by the Douglases ; for, accord-
ing to Patten, it was held by George Douglas in
1548. Patten relates, that while Somerset's army
was passing the Pease, " my lord's grace, willing
to lose no time, and that the enemies as well by
deed as by brute should know he was come, sent
an herald to summon a castle of George Douglas,
called Dunglas, that stood at the end of the same
valley nearer the sea, and a mile from the place of
our passage. The captain thereof, Matthew Hume,
a brother's son of the Lord Hume's, upon this sum-
mons, required to speak with my lord's grace. It
was granted, and he came. To whom, quoth his
grace, since it cannot be but that ye must be witting
both of our coming into these parts, and of our pro-
clamation sent hither before, and proclaimed also
since, and ye have not yet come to us, but keep this
holde thus, we have cause to take you as our mere
enemy. And, therefore, be ye at this choice — for
we will take none avantage of your being here now
■ — whether ye and your company will render your
holde and stande, body and goods, at the order of
our will, or else to be set in it again as ye were, and
Ave will assay to win it as we can. The captain,
being aboui this riddle brought in great doubt what
answer well to make, and whether best to do, at last
strucken with the fear of cruelty that by stubborn-
ness he should well deserve, and moved again with
the hope of mercy that by submission he might hap
to have, was content to render all at his grace's plea-
sure, and thereupon, commanded to fetch his com-
pany, returned to the castle. In the time of tarrying
for fetching his guard, we saw our ships, with good
gale and order, fair sailing into their firth, which is
a great arm of the sea, and runneth westward into
their country above iiii. score mile. LTpon this stand-
eth Leith, Blackness, Stirling, and Saint Jho's road,
and all the best towns else in the south part of Scot-
land. This captain came and brought with him his
band to my lord's grace, which was of xxi. sober sol-
diers, all so apparelled and appointed, that, so God
help me — I will say it for no praise — I never saw
such a bunch of beggars come out of one house to-
gether in my life ! The captain and vi. of the wor-
shipful of the company were stayed and commanded
to the keeping of the provost-marshal, more to take
Munday's handsell, then for hope of avantage ; the
residue were licensed to go their gate with this
lesson, that if they were ever known to practise
or do ought against the army, while it was in the
country, and thereupon taken, they should he sure
to be hanged. After this surrender, my Lord John
Gray, being captain of a number — as for his ap-
proved worthiness right well he might — was ap-
pointed to seize and take possession of the manor,
with all and singular the appurtenances, in and to
the same belonging, with whom, as it hapt, it was
my chance to go thither. The spoil was not rich
sure ; but of white bread, oaten cakes, and Scottish
ale, whereof was indifferent good store, and soon
bestowed among my lord's soldiers accordingly. As
for swords, bucklers, pikes, pots, pans, yarn, linen,
hemp, and heaps of such baggage beside, were scant
stoopt for, and very liberally let alone ; but yet sure
it would have rued any good housewife's heart, to
have beholden the great unmerciful murder that our
men made of the brood-geese and good laying-hens
that were slain there that day, which the wives of
the town had pend up in holes in the stables and
cellars of the castle, ere we came. In this meantime,
my lord's grace appointed the house should be over-
thrown ; whereupon the captain of the pioneers,
with a iiiiC. of his labourers, were sent down to
it, whom he straight set a-digging about the foun-
dation. In the town of Dunglas — the which we left
unspoiled and unburned — we understood of the wives,
(for their husbands were not at home,) that it was
George Douglas's devise and cost to cast these cross
trenches at the Peaths, and stood him in iiii. Scot-
tish L., which is as much sterling as iiii. good Eng-
lish crowns of V.s. a piece ; a mete reward for such
a work." Next day, Patten continues, " Our pion-
eers were early at their work again about the castle,
whose walls were so thick, and foundation so deep,
and there too set upon so craggy a plot, that it was
not any easy matter soon to underdig them ; our
army dislodged and march on." After the destruc-
tion of Dunglass thus recorded, it was rebuilt, and
probably much enlarged; for, in 1603, it was suffi-
cient to lodge James VI. and his whole retinue when
on his journey to London; and, on his return, in
1617, he was welcomed by the 'Muses Dunglasides.'
In 1640, the Earl of Haddington, and several of the
neighbouring gentlemen who had joined the Cove-
nanters, took possession of Dunglass castle, for the
purpose of watching the garrison of Berwick. His
lordship, having received a letter from General Les-
lie, was standing in the court-yard reading it to the
company, when the powder-magazine blew up, and
one of the side- walls in its fall overwhelmed his lord-
ship and his auditors, who all perished in the ruins.
Scotstarvet states, that a report prevailed that the
deed was effected by a faithless page, who, in re-
venge of some real or imaginary insult, thrust a hot
iron into a barrel of gunpowder, and perished with
the rest. This incident is sometimes erroneously
connected with the subject of the next article,
DUN
396
DUN
though the two castles are separated from one an-
other by the whole breadth of the island.
DUNGLASS, an ancient fortress and hamlet, in
the shire of Dumbarton, and parish of Old Kilpa-
trick; 2}, miles south-east by east of Dumbarton.
The great Roman wall, commonly called Graham's
Dyke, extending between the Forth and the Clyde,
terminated here. The castle, which is picturesquely
situated on a small promontory jutting into the
Clyde, was once a Roman station. On a part of the
rock, a simple obelisk monument has recently been
erected to the memory of Henry Bell, the well-known
father of steam-navigation. It was formerly the pro-
perty of the Colquhouns of Luss, who held the whole
tract of country from thence to Dumbarton.
DUNGYLE, an ancient fortress, on a lofty crag
in the south-west of Bute. * The stones which com-
posed it lie in scattered heaps chiefly on one side of
the hill. The curiosity of this object consists in the
vitrification of a great part of these stones, — a pro-
cess by which, it is supposed, they were cemented
together ; for no trace of lime, mortar, or any other
cement, is found attached to them. " It is conjec-
tured," says Dr. Lettice, in his Letters on a Tour
in 1792, " that strata of wood and stone, in form of
a wall, being first alternately placed upon each other,
sods of earth were raised on either side to support
them, and that then, the wood being set on fire, the
upper strata of stone soon subsided on those imme-
diately below them, and their vitrified sides meeting
whilst red-hot, became firmly attached to each other.
It is not improbable, that sand and the fern-plant —
both at hand — might be mingled with the wood, or
perhaps laid under it, to assist the vitrification. As
the first strata would sink considerably in this pro-
cess, successive additions were piled upon them, till
the walls were raised to the height required. This
strong place was called, in the Gaelic languag'e,
X)un/fi/le, or Dun-a-yoU ; interpreted, 'the Fort of
the Strangers;' and is supposed to have been con-
structed by the Danes or Norwegians. Mr. Thor-
burn — probably understanding the name to mean,
' a Fort against the strangers ' — is of opinion that it
was built by the inhabitants to defend themselves
against the attacks of the former. As the northern
people, just mentioned, certainly made many success-
ful inroads into the island, and at some intervals con-
sidered themselves as its principal proprietors by
right of conquest, there appears more difficulty in
deciding the origin of this fortress than I will under-
take to remove. A much smaller fort, of the same
curious construction, stood at the north side of the
island. The situation of Dungyle to a picturesque
eye would, perhaps, be less amusing, on account of
the remarkable ruins of the fortress, than on that of
the different prospects seen from its eminence. To-
ward the south-east rise the bleak rocks of Mount-
blain, with the hamlet of Garatie, just below its
rudest crags, — a few trees wildly scattered round it.
A little to the left appears one of the Cumbraes, and
its lighthouse with admirable effect. To the south-
west, dashed by the waves of the Clyde, pouring into
the Irish sea, the lofty mountains of Arran, pin-
nacled with many a black, mis-shapen crag aspiring
to the clouds, with waterfalls glittering betwixt
them, present altogether a thousand circumstances
of the truest sublimity ; whilst, on the right, as the
eye moves along the north-western shore of Bute,
it catches the 'lovely isle of Inchmarnoek, and the
long sweeping peninsula of Kintyre. We descended
from Dungyle, and winding northward round its
base, surveyed certain columnar stacks of dark rocks,
which compose this mountainous elevation, now for-
midably projecting over our heads. Beneath these
rocks we entered the long windings of a cave, worn
black by the eternal dripping of springs down its
sides. For want of light we did not choose to pene-
trate beyond 40 or SO feet ; our companion informed
us that its depth was not known. In barbarous
times it is supposed to have been frequently a place
of concealment to some enemy of the inhabitants ;
as it is at present to those of his majesty's revenue,
the smugglers. Its rugged bottom was strewed over
with fish-bones, whose eatable parts had been de-
voured by the otter, or the savage biped just men-
tioned. Notwithstanding this den-like appearance
of things, a botanist would have been delighted with
the variety of aquatic foliage which fringed its en-
trance. "
DUNIAN, a hill on the boundary between Bed-
rule and Jedburgh parishes, Roxburghshire. Its
summit at one place, excepting a cap or nobule of
very inconsiderable elevation, is a round-backed and
prolonged ridge, stretching chiefly along the boun-
dary of the parishes, and partly into the interior of
Jedburgh. At its highest point it has an elevation
of 1,031 feet above the level of the sea; and very
nearly at this point it is traversed by the high road
between Jedburgh and Hawick. But the hill slopes
on both sides in a very gentle acclivity, and bestrides
the whole space between the Jed and the Teviot, —
a geographical distance of nearly 3 miles, thus allow-
ing the highway to climb it with comparative faci-
lity. On its eastern base, rising somewhat rapidly
from the Jed, stands the chief part of the town of
Jedburgh. See Bedruxe.
DUNINO,* or Denino, a parish in the south-
east of Fifeshire, on the road between St. Andrews
and Anstruther. The kirk is 4 miles south of the
former, and 5 miles north of the latter. It is bounded
on the north by the parishes of Cameron and St.
Andrews ; on the east by St. Andrews and Kings-
barns; on the south by Kingsbarns, Crail, and Carn-
bee; and on the west by Carnbee and Cameron.
It is doubtful whether the lands of Kingsmuir, ex-
tending to 844 acres, belong to this parish or to
Crail. The district is beautifully interspersed with
small streams, the principal of which is Pitmilly
burn, which flows from west to east through the
parish. Coal seems, from the vast number of old
pits in various places of the parish, to have, at
one time, been a very plentiful article here. Free-
stone is also found in abundance ; but, though of
an easy access, and of a good quality, it is seldom
called for beyond the limits of the parish. Ironstone
exists here. Of 3,275 acres, being the superficial
extent of this parish, 270 are under plantations. The
* Pronounced Dununie. Some persons, little less fanciful,
perhaps than intelligent, Bays the reporter to Sir John Sinclair,
think that Denino derives its origin from the Gaelic Dun-y-
naeh, whose first constituent signifies ' a hill,' and the two last
'young women.' They infer, therefore, that Denino and *the
Hill of Virgins' are equivalent terms. Unfortunately there is
not the least circumstance, either in tradition or record, tend-
ing to establish the authenticity of this derivation. In the local
situation of Denino we seem to have a sufficient account of the
origin of the name. The simple consideration of its standing
in the immediate vicinity of a large and deep den, where, in
right opposition to it, two huge rocks seem to threaten an em.
brace over the perennial stream below, appears to have natu-
rally suggested the name, Denino, or, in other words, 'the
Village on the Deu.' Thus tar the writer in the Old Statistical
Account [Vol. xi. pp. 35'i, 353.] But his successor in the of-
fice of parochial statist cives a different turn to the whole mat-
ter. He says there is not and never was any village m the par-
ish, nor any deep and large den! 'I but the first syllable in the
name of the parish was originally Dim, and that lien is a mo-
dern corruplion ; that there is a traditional account of a nun.,
nery haviDg once existed here on the summit of the highest
ground in the parish— Duniuo law ; and that charters exist iu
which the parish is distinctly termed DunnsnaucM, and Eyn-
nenoch. Mr. Leighton, again, asserts that this conjecture of a
nunnery having existed here is totally without foundation, as
there is no record of any such religious establishment; and ar-
gues that the name points not to the station of a religious sister-
hood, but the dun or fortified hill-camp of a body of warriors.
So much lor cuu&icting etymologies.'
DUN
397
DUN
real rental, in 1793, was £1,157; in 1836, £3,122.
The assessed property was returned, in 1815, at
£2,634. Population, in 1801, 326; in 1831, in-
cluding the island of May, which also is claimed by
Crail parish, 3S3. Houses 74. There are three
ruined fortalices in this parish : viz., the castle of
"Draffun, Stravethy castle, and Pittairthy castle.
This parish is in the presbytery of St. Andrews,
and synod of Fife. Patron, the united college of
St. Andrews. Stipend £198 16s.; glebe £33.
Unappropriated teinds £33 15s. lOd. Church built
in 1826; sittings 224. — Parish-schoolmaster's salary
£34 4s. 44d., with £16 fees, and other emoluments.
DUNIPACE, a parish in Stirlingshire, which has
been conjoined with that of Larbert since about
1620. It is bounded on the north by the parish
of St. Ninians ; on the south by the Carron, which
divides it from Denny and Falkirk parishes ; on
the west by the Carron, which again separates it
from Denny, and by the parish of St. Ninians ; and
on the east by the parish of Larbert. It derives
its name from two remarkable mounds in the east-
ern part of the parish. " The whole structure of
these mounts," says Mr. Nimmo, in his ' History of
Stirlingshire,' "is of earth; but they are not both
of the same form and dimensions. The more easterly
one is perfectly round, resembling an oven, and
about 50 feet in height. That it is an artificial work
does not admit of the least doubt ; but the same
thing cannot be affirmed with equal certainty of
the other, though it has generally been supposed to
be so too. It bears no resemblance to the eastern
one either in shape or size. At the foundation it
is nearly of a triangular form ; but the superstructure
is quite irregular ; nor does the height of it bear any
proportion to the extent of the base. Buchanan calls
the western mount the smaller, but his memory had
quite failed him, for there are at least four times the
quantity of earth in it that is in the other. Neither
can we discern any appearance of the river's having
ever come so near as to wash away any part of it,*
as that historian affirms; though it is not improbable
that considerable encroachments have been made
upon it, which have greatly altered its original
shape, as it affords an excellent kind of gravel for
different uses. The mounts are now planted with
firs, which, together with the parish-church of
Dunipaee, standing in the middle between them and
the river running hard by, gives this valley a ro-
mantic appearance. The common account given of
these mounts is, that they Were erected as monu-
ments of a peace concluded in that place betwixt
the Romans and the Caledonians, and that their
name partakes of the language of both people ;
Dun, signifying ' httL' in the ancient language of the
country, and Pax ' peace,' in the language of Rome ;
the compound word Duni-pace, according to this
etymology, signifies 'hills of peace.' If the con-
curring testimony of historians and antiquaries did
not unite in giving this original to these mounts,
we should be tempted to conjecture that they are
sepulchral monuments. Human bones and urns had
been discovered in earthen fabrics of a similar con-
struction in many parts of the island ; and the little
mounts or barrows which are scattered in great num-
bers around Stonehenge, in Salisbury plain, are gener-
ally supposed to have been sepulchres of the ancient
Britons." This conjecture of the intelligent histo-
rian of Stirlingshire, with regard to the origin of the
hills of Dunipaee, is supported by his editor Mr.
Stirling, who rejects the absurd, mongrel etymology
* The writer of the Old Statistical Account seems to contra-
dict this statement. He distinctly states that the course which
the river had taken when it made the encroachment referred to
by Buchanan, is still visible.
of Buchanan, and states it as more probable that
the word Dunipaee is entirely Celtic in its origin.
Duin-na-Bais in Gaelic, would signify, he mentions,
'hills or tumuli of death.' "Dunipaee," con-
tinues Mr. Nimmo, " is taken notice of in history
as a place where important national causes have
been decided, and that more than once, by great
monarchs in person. The Roman Emperor Severus,
accompanied by his sons Caracalla and Geta, is sup-
posed to have here concluded a peace with the Caledo-
nians. \Ye find Edward the 1st of England, at
Dunipaee, upon the 14th October, 1301, when he
signed a warrant to his plenipotentiaries, who were
at that time in France, authorizing them to consent
to a truce with the Scots, as a necessary prelimi-
nary towards a peace with their ally, the French
king, between whom and Edward an obstinate war
had long raged. At the chapel of this place, too,
Robert Bruce and William Wallace are said to have
had a second conference, the morning after the
battle of Falkirk, which effectually opened the eyes
of the former, to a just view of his own true in-
terest, and that of his country. Until the bridge
of Larbert was erected in the last century, the or-
dinary place of crossing the Carron seems to have
been at Dunipaee. No where else does the river
offer a passage naturally so commodious and easy, the
banks being generally steep and rugged. The nu-
merous armies which frequently crossed this shire,
appear to have taken their route that way, at least
since the demolition of a Roman bridge which stood
half-a-mile to the eastward." [Nimmo's ' History of"
Stirlingshire,' p. 68 — 73.] — A portion of the ancient
Caledonian forest, known by the name of Torwood,
still remains in this parish. An old oak tree of im-
mense size, used to be pointed out here as having af-
forded a hiding-place to Sir William Wallace after
his defeat in the north. Adjoining to this there is a
square field, enclosed by a ditch, where Donald Car-
gill pronounced sentence of excommunication against
Charles II., the Duke of Lauderdale, Sir George
Mackenzie, the King's advocate, and others. The
population of Dunipaee, in 1801, was 948; in 1831,
1,278. Assessed property, in 1S15, £5,634. For
ecclesiastical statistics, see Larbert.
DUNKELD and DOWALLY, a conjunct parish
in the north-eastern part of Perthshire. It consists
of the town of Dunkeld, and the landward parish of
Dowally, both of which were disjoined from the par-
ish of Caputh in 1500. It is bounded on the north
by the parish of Logierait; on the south by the
parish of Caputh and the river Tay, which divides
it from the parish of Little Dunkeld; on the east
by the parishes of Cluny and Caputh; and on the
west by the Tay, which separates it from Little
Dunkeld. A portion of the parish of Dowally,
called Dalcapon, is detached from it, and is situated
several miles farther north. This portion is bounded
on the south and west by the parish of Logierait;
on the north by the parish of Moulin ; and on the
east by the parish of Kirkmichael. The greatest
length of the parish is 7 miles ; its greatest breadth
3 miles. Its superficial extent is about 14 square
miles. The parish stretches along the banks of the
Tay, which waters its western boundary, and from
that river it rises into steep and barren mountains, of
which it is principally composed. It is estimated
that its surface consists of about 1,200 acres of arable
land, 1,000 of meadows in pasture, 260 of oak wood,
and 9,000 of heath, and hill pasture. The valued
rent of Dowally is £1,390 2s. 2d. Scots. Assessed
property, in 1815, £14,976. The population of the
parish amounted, in 1801, to 1,857; in 1831, to
2,037 ; of whom 566 were in the parish of Dowally,
and 1,471 in the town of Dunkeld. Of the whole
398
DUNKELD AND DOWALLY.
population 1,965 are connected with the Establish-
ment, and 72 belong to other denominations. From
a more recent survey, the population of the parish of
Dowally has increased since 1831 to 596. No new
survey has been made of Dunkeld. Dunkeld is the
seat of a presbytery, and is in the synod of Perth
and Stirling. Patron, and sole heritor, the Duke of
Athole. The cathedral, which has been fitted up as
the paiish-church, was built in 1317. It was refitted
and repaired in 1820, at an expense of about .£5,400,
defrayed solely by the late Duke of Athole, with the
exception of ±'990 granted by the Exchequer. Sit-
tings 655. Stipend £161 7s. lid., with .£63 per
annum in lieu of manse and glebe. Gaelic is com-
monly spoken in the parish of Dowally, and the in-
habitants generally understand English very imper-
fectly. The marches of Dowally in fact are said to
constitute a distinct line of demarcation between the
two parts of the united parishes in respect to the
English and Gaelic languages : see article Dowally.
. — There is also an Independent congregation in Dun-
keld. It was established in 1800. Church built in
1800, at an expense of £500. Sittings 310. Stipend
£60, and a house worth about £10 annually A
Glassite congregation has likewise been established
for about 90 years. The congregation assembles in
the upper flat of a house, rented at £10 per annum,
and fitted up at the expense of the congregation.
Sittings about 100. There is no minister. The
members are only 10 in number, and the average at-
tendance is about 30 The salary of the parish
schoolmaster is £34 4s. 4|d., with £14 of school-
fees. Average number of scholars, about 50. There
are four other schools in the parish, attended, on an
average, by 194 children.
The town of Old Dunkeld is delightfully situated
on the north bank of the Tay, close on the riverside,
and with a finely- wooded hill immediately behind it.
It consists of one principal street, extending in a line
parallel with the river, and intersected by several
smaller streets or lanes. It is a place of great an-
tiquity. In Pictish times it is said to have been the
seat of royalty, and it is certain that a cell of Cul-
dees was established here at a very early period.
It was afterwards, by David I., in 1130, made the
seat of a bishopric, and ranked as the first in Scot-
land. It is still regarded as the capital of the north-
ern part of Perthshire. Its size, however, is very
inconsiderable, the population, in 1831, having been
only 1,471. A limited trade of consumption with
the surrounding country is carried on, but it is not
a trading place in a comprehensive sense, nor has it
any manufactures. The cathedral stands apart from
ihe town, and is surrounded by fine old trees.
Though now much dilapidated, it is still a fine build-
ing. The tower, the two side-aisles, and the nave
alone remain. The ruins of the principal aisle in parti-
cular are singularly grand. At the west end are the
remains of a fine large Gothic window which has ori-
ginally been beautifully ornamented, but is now
sadly injured. The tower, which was founded in
1469, and finished in 1.501, is placed at the west
end of the north aisle, and is a structure of great
elegance. The Tay is crossed at Dunkeld by a
magnificent bridge, of which the middle arch is 90
feet wide ; the two next 84 feet each ; and the two
next 74 feet each ; with 2 land-arches, each 20 feet
wide. Total water-way 446 feet. This bridge was
built in 1807-9, at an expense of £14,054, of which
£7,000 were contributed by the Duke of Athole
Dunkeld is a burgh-of-barony under the Duke of
Athole. It received from Queen Anne, in 1704, a
charter conferring on it the dignity of a royal burgh,
with 3 bailies, a dean-of-guild, a treasurer, and
10 common-council-men ; also fully empowering it
" to have freemen, merchants, guild-brothers, muni-
cipal courts, or dean-of-guild, with the council and
other members, liberties, and emoluments thereto
belonging, as also burgess-brothers of the fraternity
or guildry, and to be appointed and created with
such liberties and privileges as belongs to them, or
are usual within any other burgh-royal within the
kingdom ; with full power and liberty to use, tra-
fique, and merchandize, as well within the said king-
dom as without it, in foreign countries, and of ex-
porting and importing all lawful effects and commo-
dities whatsoever." This charter, however, does
not appear to have been accepted by the burgh, or
carried into effect, as the town continued merely a
burgh-of-barony. The jurisdiction of the burgh is
that of an ordinary baron-bailie, who is appointed
during the pleasure of the superior. He holds no
regular court, but trifling disputes are settled by him
at his own house : matters of a more serious charac-
ter being referred to a justice-of-peace court, which
meets at Dunkeld once a month. Courts under the
new small debt act are held every 2d Monday
of February, May, August, and November. Fairs,
principally for cattle, are held on the 14th February,
5th April, 20th June, and 2d Tuesday of Novem-
ber. Here are branches of the Commercial bank of
Scotland, and of the Perth banking company.
The scenery in the neighbourhood of Dunkeld,
particularly in the grounds of the Duke of Athole,
is extremely beautiful. The poet, Gray, who visited
the town in 1 766, thus describes the approach to
and situation of the place : " The road came to
the brow of a deep descent ; and between two
woods of oak we saw, far below us, the Tay come
sweeping along at the bottom of a precipice at least
150 feet deep, clear as glass, full to the brim, and
very rapid in its course. It seemed to issue out of
woods thick and tall that rose on either hand, and
were overhung by broken rocky crags of vast height.
Above them, to the west, the tops of higher moun-
tains appeared, on which the evening clouds reposed.
Down by the side of the river, under the thickest
shades, is seated the town of Dunkeld. In the midst
of it stands a ruined cathedral ; the tower and shell
of the building still entire. A little beyond it a large
house of the Duke of Athole, with its offices and
gardens, extends a mile beyond the town : and as his
grounds are intersected by the streets and roads, he
has flung arches of communication across them, that
add much to the scenery of the place." Mr. Gilpin
says : " This favoured spot — for it is indeed a beau-
tiful scene — consists of a large circular valley, the
diameter of which is in some parts a mile ; in others
two or three. Its surface is various ; and some of
the rising grounds within the valley itself would
even be esteemed lofty, if it were not for the grand
screen of mountains, which circles the whole. At
the base of those, towards the south, runs the Tay,
in this place broad, deep, and silent. The whole
valley is interspersed with wood, both on the banks
of the river and in its internal parts ; and would
have been a still more beautiful scene, if art had
done as much as nature. Much indeed it has done,
but nothing well. Cascades, and slopes, and other
puerilities deform a scene which is in itself calcu-
lated to receive all the grandeur of landscape. The
walks show some contrivance ; and might, with a
few alterations, be made beautiful. Indeed the whole
is capable of receiving any improvement ; and may
by this time have received it. I speak of it only as
it was a dozen years ago. The remains of the abbey,
shrouded in wood, stand on the edge of the lawn ;
but rather too near the house. The solitude, which
naturally belongs to ruins, and the embellishments
which are necessary about a habitable mansion, in-
DUNKELD.
399
terfere rather too much." [Observations in 1776,
Vol. I. pp. 113, 114] — In the subsequent article will
be found some additional remarks on the beautiful
scenery of this locality.
DUNKELD (Little), a parish in Perthshire,
which adjoins that described in the last article. It
consists of the united parishes of Little Dunkeld and
Laganallachy ; and is bounded on the north by the
parish of Dull, and by the Tay, which there divides
it from the parish of Logierait ; on the west by the
parishes of Dull and Weem ; on the south by the
parishes of Dull, Monzie, Auchtergaven, and Kin-
claven; and on the east by the river Tay, which
divides it from Logierait, Dunkeld, and Caputh. Its
greatest length is 16 miles, its greatest breadth be-
tween 5 and 6 miles, and it contains about 31,000
acres. The parish consists of three distinct and
populous districts, which are all separated from each
other by high hills: viz. the Bishopric, which extends
from the Bran along the west bank of the Tay to the
northern boundary of the parish ; Strathbran, or the
valley of the Bran, along the southern confines of the
parish ; and Murthly, a long, narrow stripe of land
stretching from the town of Little Dunkeld along
the banks of the Tay to the south-east. The south-
ern and eastern parts of Murthly present an undu-
lating surface. The soil is a kind of black loam
mixed with sand, and tolerably fertile. There is a
considerable tract of heath in the neighbourhood of
Murthly, a portion of which is now covered with
fine uijods. The western part of the district be-
low Invar is a deep, narrow vale through which
the Tay flows. It is adorned with oak-woods, and
the bottom forms a stripe of good arable land. On
the south side of this valley is situated the celebrated
hill of Birnam. The district called the Bishopric is
about 10 miles in length from Invar to Grandtully.
It derives its name from the greater part of it having
formerly been the property of the see of Dunkeld.
It forms the western side of a beautiful valley through
which the Tay flows in a wide smooth stream. The
bottom of this valley is level and fertile ; and it is
bounded on the west by" a long range of high moun-
tains, which present an irregular but bold and abrupt
face to the valley. The numerous projections of
the range are perpetually changing the point of view,
and opening up new prospects to the traveller as he
moves along. This district is populous; it contains
a number of gentlemen's seats, and is richly adorned
throughout the greater part of its surface with oak-
woods. The soil is sandy, with a mixture of loam.
Beyond the district of the Bishopric, to the western
extremity of the parish, there is a wild tract of im-
mense extent composed of hills, moors, and glens,
through which considerable streamlets find their way
into the river Bran. It does not appear to be dis-
tinguished by any general name, and is scarcely oc-
cupied by any human habitations. The district of
Strathbran extends about 9 miles from west to east,
or from Invar to Amulrie. The soil in this district
is clay and loam, and it is more moist than either
of the others. The surface rises in a gentle slope
from both sides of the Bran, and is bounded on the
south and north by hills. The soil is fertile, and
the greater part of the population of the parish are
concentred here. Beyond the valley towards the
south there is a long tract of hills occupying nearly
4,000 acres, and covered principally with heath,
though in some places affording good pasture. Be-
low Murthly in this parish, there is an inexhaustible
body of freestone, of a fine grain, and great hard-
ness. It is of a light, vivid ash colour, and was used
for building the cathedral of Dunkeld. The hill of
Birnam furnishes slates of a deep blue colour, bor-
dering on violet ; and lead-ore has also been found
in this elevation. Iron probably exists to some ex-
tent in the parish, as there are fountains strongly
impregnated with this metal near Dalguise in the
Bishopric, and also at Murthly. " In Strathbran,"
says the Old Statistical Account, "near the king's
highway, there is to be met with a remarkable kind
of clay. When wet it feels perfectly smooth and
unctuous ; when dry it acquires a remarkable degree
of induration ; and when pounded, the powder af-
fects the touch like the finest wheat flour." " This
argillaceous substance," it is added, " may be fit ful-
some of the finest works of the potter," A great
part of the wealth of this parish consists in the nat-
ural woods, which are mostly of oak. The planting
of wood has also been carried to an immense extent
by several of the proprietors of the parish, particu-
larly by the Duke of Athole, whose beautiful planta-
tions on the banks of the Bran, and on the heights
around Little Dunkeld and Invar, have long been
the delight and admiration of travellers. The most,
remarkable points in these grounds are the Rumbling
bridge and Ossian's hall. The latter of these is a
neat edifice situated on a romantic promontory which
overlooks a broad, broken cascade. The stranger is
conducted into a small apartment lighted from the
top, and desired to look at a picture of Ossian painted
on the wall. While he is examining it, it suddenly
disappears as if by magic, and he finds himself at the
entrance of an oblong apartment, the walls and roof
of which are covered with mirrors, wherein the cas-
cade opposite the window is reflected, tumbling as
it were in all directions; — a fantastic and ill-assorted
combination of the solemnities of nature, with child-
ish toys. There is much sound, sober sense, as welJ
as high poetry, in the ' Effusion' of Wordsworth, on
this cascade and its hall, which we make no apology
for quoting : —
" What He — who, mid the kindred throng
Of heroes that inspired his song.
Doth yet frequent the hill of storms,
Tlie stars dim-twinkling through their forms!
What.' Ossian here — a painted thrall,
Mute fixture on a stuccoed wall ;
To serve — an unsuspected screen
For show that must not yet be seen ;
And, when the moment comes, to part
And vanish by mysterious art;
Head, harp, and body, split asunder,
For ingress to a world of wonder;
A gay saloon, with waters dancing
Upon the sight wherever glancing ;
One loud cascade iu front, and lo !
A thousand like it, white as snow,
Streams on the walls, and torrent-foam
As active round the hollow dome,
Illusive cataracts! of their terrors
Not stripped nor voiceless in the mirrors,
That catch the pageant from the flood
Thundering adown a rocky wood.
What pains to dazzle and confound!
What strife of colour, shape, and sound
In this quaint medley, that might seem
Devised out of a sick man's dream !
Strange scene, fantastic and uneasy
As ever made a maniac dizzy,
When disenchanted from the mood
That loves ou sullen thoughts to brood '
O Nature! in thy changeful visions, '
Through ail thy most abrupt transitions,
Smooth, graceful, tender, or sublime —
Ever averse to pantomime.
Thee neither do they know nor us
Thy servants, who can trifle thus;
Else verily the sober powers
Of rock that frowns, and stream that roars.
Exalted by congenial sway
Of spirits, and the undying lay,
And names that moulder not away,
Had wakened some redeeming thought
More worthy of this favoured spot*
Recalled some feeling, to set free
The Bard from such indignity!"
The Old Statistical reporter mentions that a pe-
culiar species of serpent abounds near Ossian's hall
and Little Dunkeld. " It grows," he says, " to the
400
DUNKELD.
length of twenty inches, is of a yellowish colour, and
speckled all over with brown spots, which give it
the appearance of a beautiful marble. Its bite is not
thought poisonous. This reptile is never seen in
elevated situations, but always in grounds of a warm
exposure. The black snake worm, from eight to
ten inches in length, a noxious animal, is sometimes
met with, but very seldom, in the same tract of
ground." The same writer mentions a remarkable
variety of the lizard tribe, which is found in the
moors at the eastern extremity of the parish. " It
is," says he, "about nine inches long ; the body or
trunk is of an unusual length in proportion to the
tail, which does not taper gradually from the hind
feet as in other lizards, but becomes suddenly small
like that of a mouse. The back is full of small pro-
tuberances, and guarded with a skin almost as hard
as a sea-shell. The eyes are large, clear, and circu-
lar, like those of an ordinary trout ; the jaws more
than an inch in length, and the teeth so strong as to
be heard making a ringing noise upon the iron point
of a pole, at the distance of more than 10 feet.
When irritated it expresses its rage by the reddening
and glistening of its eyes." [Old Statistical Account,
vol. vi. p. 361.] — Near the bottom of the south-east
side of the celebrated Birnam hill, which is in this
parish, [see article Birnam] there is a round
mound which bears some traces of a rude fortifica-
tion. It has been known from time immemorial by
the names of Court hill and Duncan's hill ; and tra-
dition reports that it was occasionally occupied by
the unfortunate King Duncan. A number of small
cairns are in the immediate neighbourhood. A little
higher up the same hill are the ruins of an oblong
building, called in Gaelic Forhaillon, with circular
turrets at the corners. Birnam, as is well known,
was anciently a forest, and part of the domain of the
Scottish kings The following interesting tradition
is given by the author of the Old Statistical Account
of Little Dunkeld, with regard to a small field called
the Yoke-haugh, which lies about 2 miles above
Little Dunkeld. " A man who may be called the
Cincinnatus of Scotland happened, along with his
two sons, to be ploughing in this field on the day
of the battle of Luncarty. Hearing the fate of the
battle, and seeing the Scottish army retreating, he
was instantly fired with heroic indignation, and, to-
gether with his sons, seized each of them the yoke
of an oxen-plough, persuaded their countrymen to
rally, and marching at their head, met the Danes on
the banks of the Tay, near Caputh, where, having
renewed the combat, the aged hero exhibited pro-
digies of valour, and the Danes were completely de-
feated. In consequence of this he was dignified by
his sovereign with peculiar honours, obtained the
name of Hay, and the implement with which he
fought for his arms." "The yoke," adds the Re-
porter, " is still the arms of the noble family of Kin-
noul, who are thought to be descended from this
saviour of his country." — Besides the remains of
antiquity which we have already mentioned, there
are a number of Druidical circles, British forts, and
immense cairns. A stone-bridge over the Bran, a
little above Trochrie, is said, in Sir John Sinclair's
Statistical Account, to be the oldest in Perthshire.
The castle of Trochrie on the banks of the Bran,
and about 3 miles above Little Dunkeld, was a seat
of the unfortunate John, Earl of Gowrie. It is now
a complete ruin The valued rent of this parish is
£4,805 10s. 4d. Scots. The value of assessed pro-
pertv, in 1815, was £5,595. Population, in 1801,
2,977; in 1831, 2,867. Houses 578. Except in the
town of Little Dunkeld, the inhabitants are dis-
persed over the parish in hamlets or small vil-
lages.— The parish of Little Dunkeld is in the
presbytery of Dunkeld, and synod of Perth and Stir-
ling. Patron, the Crown. There are two churches
in the parish ; — one at Little Dunkeld, which was
built in 1798, with 820 sittings; the other at Lagan-
allachy, which is situated in the district of Strath-
bran, about 3 miles from Little Dunkeld. It can
contain about 500 people. Stipend £157 10s. 3d. ;
glebes at Little Dunkeld and Laganallachy worth
about £28 a-year. The minister has also a right of
cutting peats for fuel There are two parish-schools.
The salary of one is £20 18s. ILid., and £10 of
school-fees ;— that of the other £10, and £15 of
school-fees. Total average attendance about 100.
There are 5 other schools in the parish, the average
number of scholars attending which is about 250
The town of Little Dunkeld is situated close on the
banks of the Tay, in the south-eastern part of the
parish, and may not improperly be regarded as a
suburb of old Dunkeld, being, in fact, united with
it by a bridge over the river The small village of
Invar, on the Bran near Dunkeld, was the birth-
place of Neil Gow. An old oak in the Athole
grounds, near this place, is still pointed out as his
favourite tree, under which he used to sit for hours
composing his beautiful airs.
The following description of the scenery of Dun-
keld, by the celebrated traveller, Dr. E. D. Clarke,
will probably be new to some of our readers. We
quote it, not the less willingly that it contains an
ingenious defence of what appears to us the silly ar-
tificialities of Ossian's hall, on approaching Dunkeld
from the north : — " Nothing," says the Doetdf, "oc-
curs particularly remarkable until just before you
arrive at the toll-gate, before descending into the
beautiful vale of the Tay, and from that moment a
scene opens before you, which perhaps has not its
parallel in Europe. I know not in all Scotland, nor
in any part of Great Britain, a scene more striking
than Dunkeld, as you descend to cross the ferry.
From the toll-gate towards the river you have the
great forest of Birnam above you on the left> and
down far to the right a long hollow valley, watered
by the rapid meandering Tay, attracts the attention.
Dunkeld, shut in by high mountains, rises with its
ruined cathedral, its church and houses above the
water. To enrich this noble scene, the finest trees
are seen flourishing with the greatest redundancy.
How weak and groundless are the expressions of
Johnson respecting Scotland and. its timber, when
one beholds this luxuriant valley proudly decorated
with majestic oaks, sycamore, limes, beech, maple,
birch, and all the glories of the forest! I measured
a single oak close to the ferry, and found it to be 17
feet in the girth ; and near it stood a sycamore of
much greater magnitude. The grounds belonging to
the Duke of Athole, I do not hesitate to pronounce,
are almost without a rival. There are some scenes
about them which bear a resemblance to the finest
parts of Mount Edgeeumbe in Cornwall. The walks
alone form an extent of 16 or 17 miles,* and these
are kept in the finest order, not fantastically cut ac-
cording to any absurd rule which may violate the
grandeur of nature, but winding among the most
solemn groves and majestic trees which the earth
produces. I cannot pretend to detail their beauties.
The pencil alone can, and even that would but in-
adequately describe them. The greatest curiosity
of Dunkeld — at least that which is generally esteemed
such — is a cascade formed by a fall of the Bran, about
J mile from the ferry of Invar. The manner in
which this is presented to the spectator has been
much reprobated by several of our modern tourists,
* This is probably under-stated. Dr. Mnecullocjl mentions
that the extent of the walks is 50 miles, and that of the rioee.
SO miles.
DUN
401
DUN
who, anxious to show their taste for the beauties of
nature, hastily condemn the smallest interference of
art. For my own part, I entirely differ with them
respecting; the cataract of the Bran at Ossian's hall.
I consider it as one of the most ingenious and pleas-
ing ornaments to rural scenery I ever beheld. A
hermitage or summer-house is placed 40 feet above
the bottom of the fall, and constructed in such a
manner that the spectator, in approaching the cas-
cade, is entirely ignorant of his vicinity to it, being
concealed by the walls of this edifice. Upon enter-
ing the building you are struck with a painting of
Ossian, playing upon his harp, and singing the songs
of other times ; — the picture, as you contemplate it,
suddenly disappears with aloud noise, and the whole
cataract foams at once before you, reflected in several
mirrors, and roaring with the noise of thunder. It
is hardly possible to conceive a spectacle more strik-
ing. If it be objected that machinery contrivance of
this sort wears too much the appearance of scenic
representation, I should reply, that as scenic repre-
sentation I admire it, and as the finest specimen of
that species of exhibition, which doubtlessly, without
the aid of such a deception, would have been desti-
tute of half the effect it is now calculated to pro-
duce. A little below this edifice a simple but pleas-
ing arch is thrown across the chasm of the rocks
through which the river flows with vast rapidity.
About a mile higher up the Bran is the Rumbling
bridge, thrown across a chasm of granite about 15
feet wide. The bed of the river for several hundred
feet above the arch is copiously charged with mas-
sive fragments of rock, over which the river foams
and roars like the waters of Ivy bridge in Devon-
shire. Approaching the bridge, it precipitates itself
with great fury through the chasm, casting a thick
cloud of spray or vapour high above the bridge, and
agitating by its fury even the prodigious masses
which form the surrounding rocks. Few objects
will more amply repay the traveller for the trouble
of visiting them than the woody precipices, the long
winding shady groves, the ruins and cataracts of
Dunkeld." See article The Bran.
DUNLICHTY. See Datiot, Inverness-shire.
DUNLOP,* a parish in the north of the district of
Cunningham, Ayrshire. It is bounded on the north
by Renfrewshire; on the south-east and south by
Stewarton ; and on the north-west by Beith. It is
of an oblong figure, stretching from north-east to
south-west, generally about 2 miles broad, but taper-
ing and narrow toward the extremities. Its greatest
length is about 7 miles; and it contains about 101
square miles. A doubt exists — but with a proba-
bility on the negative side — whether or not a small
part of it on the north belongs quoad cimlia to the
parish of Neilston in Renfrewshire. The surface,
for the most part, is agreeably undulating, nowhere
rising into a greater elevation above the beds of the
local streams than 150 feet; yet the whole is more
than 300 feet above the level of the sea, and, from
many of its knolls or little hills, carries the eye
minutely and graphically over the richly cultivated
country between it and the sea, and away over the
map of romance spread out over the wide waters of
the frith of Clyde. All the way south-westward it
gradually slopes ; in some places, it is a beautifully
irregular agglomeration of knolls; and often, when it
swells up, on one side, in a gentle rising ground, it
breaks suddenly down, on the other, in a precipitous
rock or grassy-bank overhanging a rivulet. In its
central parts, however, it has a somewhat naked
* At the village of Dunlop in a small hill, anciently fortified,
round which is a hend or winding of the local stream. This
lull, in the Scoto-Irish language, is Dnn-lub, ' the Hill at the
bend.* Hence the origin, of the name Duulon.
J.
appearance from paucity of plantation. The parish
is separated from Beith by Lugton water, and from
Stewarton by Corsehill-burn, and is bisected into
nearly equal parts by the Glazert, — all the streams
flowing south-westward; and it derives from them
a little beauty, and only a trifling advantage. The
soil, in some places, is a fine loam; in a few spots, is
moss; but in general is of a clayey, retentive nature,
and very productive. Limestone abounds ; coal is
of very inferior quality, and is not worked. Dunlop
house, beautifully situated on the brook which forms
the south-eastern boundary, is a splendid mansion.
Dunlop has long been celebrated for its cheese; and
though now successfully competed with by most
parishes in Ayrshire, and some in Renfrewshire, in
the production of that article, is even yet unsur-
passed. Barbara Gilmour — a woman whose wits
were sharpened, and whose range of observation was
varied, by exile to Ireland, during the troubles in
Scotland between the Restoration and the Revolution
— settled down in Dunlop as a farmer's wife; and
having specially turned her attention to the produce
of the dairy, successfully attempted to manufacture
from unskimmed milk a species of cheese then un-
known in Scotland, and altogether different from
the horny, insipid produce of skimmed milk still in
use among the peasantry of Peebles and other se-
cluded districts. Her manufacture was speedily
imitated by her neighbours ; and, in a short time,
came into such general demand, under the name of
Dunlop cheese, that, whether the produce of her
own hands, or that of her neighbours, or that of
persons in adjoining parishes, it found far and near
a ready market. Even Sir. Cobbett himself has
pronounced it " equal in quality to any cheese from
Cheshire, Gloucestershire, or Wiltshire." About
25,000 stones are now produced annually in the par-
ish; and large quantities from other parishes in the
south and west pass through it as an entrepot both
convenient for its situation, and advantageous for
its celebrity. Dunlop is traversed for 5 miles by
the road between Kilmarnock and Paisley; it is
otherwise well-provided with roads ; and it may now
enjoy facility of communication from its being near
the range of the Glasgow and Ayr railway -The
village of Dunlop is situated near the centre of the
parish; 3 miles north of Stewarton; 5 south of
Beith ; and 9 north-east of Irvine. It consists of a
single street, and has upwards of 200 inhabitants
Population of the parish, in 1801, 808; in 1831,
1,040. Houses 210. Assessed property, in 1815,
±'6,762. — Dunlop is in the presbytery of Irvine,
and svnod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Earl
of Eglinton. Stipend £215 Is. 6d.; glebe ±20.
Unappropriated teinds .£296 0s. lid. The parish-
church was built in 1835. Sittings 750. The church
was formerly a vicarage of the monks of Kilwinning.
Schoolmaster's salary £25 13s. 3d., with from £18
to £21 other emoluments. There are 3 schools non-
parochial.
DUNMAGLAS, a district in the shire of Nairn,
though locally in the shire of Inverness, and old par-
ish of Dunlichty; 19 miles north-cast by east of
Fort-Augustus. Here is the seat of the ancient
family of MacGillivray, chief of the clan of that
name. This district anciently belonged to the
Thanes of Calder, one of whom procured an Act in
1405, incorporating all his lands in the shires of
Inverness and Forres, into the shire of Nairn; and,
accordingly, Dunmaglas forms still a part of that
county, though under the jurisdiction of the sheriff
of Inverness. Dunmaglas is situated among and
comprehends the whole of the sources of the river
Farigag, in Stratherrick, above Abershea. The
whole is in the form of an oblique parallelogram, of
DUN
402
DUN
which the longer diagonal runs north and south about
7 miles; the extent being about 16 square miles.
DUNMORE, or Elphinstone, a village in the
shire of Stirling, and parish of Airth; 8 miles south-
east of Stirling. This village is situated upon the
Forth, and is within the jurisdiction of the port of
Alloa. The castle of Dunmore is the ancient seat
of the family of Murray, from whence they derive
their title of Earl. The 1st Earl of Dunmore was
Lord Charles Murray, 2d son of John, Marquis of
Athole, and of Lady Amelia Stanley, by whom the
sovereignty of the isle of Man, and the harony of
Strange, came into the Athole family. His lordship
was the 6th in descent from Mary, queen-dowager
of France, the beautiful daughter of Henry VII.,
through the Earls of Derby, and the Cliffords, Earls
of Cumberland. See Airth.
DUNMORE. See Monzie.
DUNMYAT, a beautiful conical eminence in the
parish of Logie, and vicinity of Stirling, commanding
a splendid panoramic view of the carse of Stirling.
DUNNET, a parish in the county of Caithness,
bounded by the Pentland frith on the north ; by
Canisbay on the east; Bower on the south; and
Olrick on the west. It extends about 10 miles in
length ; and is on an average 2| in breadth. It is
the most northerly parish in Great Britain ; the ex-
tremity of Dunnet-head being found by the latest
observations, to be farther north than Duncansby-
head, or John-o'-Groats. Except Dunnet-head,
[see next article,] there is scarcely an eminence in
the parish. The soil is in general light, with little
clay or deep loam ; and by far the greater part is
incapable of cultivation. The coast is in most
places bold and rocky. On the east of Dunnet-
bay there is a beautiful level sand, stretching for 2
miles along the shore, over which the sea ebbs and
flows above a quarter of a mile. The sand above
high-water-mark is loose ; and by being exposed
to driving, frequently hurts the neighbouring lands.
Adjoining to it, there is a tract of barren sand nearly
2 miles in diameter, which is said to have been arable
ground, or rich pasture, some time about the end of
the 17th century. The ruins of cottages are now
appearing in different parts of it; but they seem to
be of a much older date. That part of the parish to
the east of Dunnet-head, along the frith, has a low
rocky shore.* Though Dunnet-bay runs far into
* "The current in the Pentland frith off this roast is exceed-
ingly strong during spring-tides, s<> that no vessel can stem it.
The tiood-tide runs, from west to east, at the rate of 10 miles
an hour, with new and full moon. It is then high water at
Scarfskerry — whence the ferry-boat crosses from Dunnet for
Orkney — at 9 o'clock. As the water begins to fall upon the
shore, the current immediately turns to the west; hut the
strength of the flood is so great in the middle of the frith, that
it continues to run east till about twelve. These contiguous
currents, running with amazing velocity in opposite directions,
have a strange appearance from the land, in a day favourable
for observing them. With a gentle breeze of westerly wind,
about 8 o'clock in the morning, the whole fritli seems as smooth
at a sheet of glass, from Dunnet-head to Hoy-head, in Orkney.
About 9 the sea begins to be in a rage, for about 100 yards to
appearance, off the Head, while all without that continues
smooth as before. This appearance gradually advances towards
the frith, and along the shore to the east: though the effects of
it are not much felt upon the 6bore. till it reach ficarfskerry-
head, which is about 3 miles distant from Oumiet-head, as the
land between these two points forms a considerable bay. By
2 o'clock the whole frith seems to be in a rage. About 3 in
the afternoon, it is low water on the shore, when all the for-
mer phenomena are reversed ; the smooth water beginning to
appear on the land, and advancing gradually till it reaches the
middle of the frith. From the strength of the tides, and the
surprising velocity of these contiguous currents in opposite
directions, the Pentland frith is a very dangerous navigation to
strangers, especially if they approach near the land. But the
natives along the coast are so well-acquainted with the direc
tion of the tides, that they cao take advantage of every one of
these currents, to carry them 6afe to one harbour or another.
Hence very few accidents happen hut from want of skill or know-
ledge of the tides. The snfest way for strangers is either to
take a pilot on board, or to keep at a considerable distance from
the laud. The frith is said to be about 12 miles broad, opposite
the land, it affords no shelter for any vessels upon
the north side of it, which is contiguous to Dunnet-
head, as it is exposed to the west. But on the
Pentland frith, to the east of the Head, there are
several very secure havens for boats or small craft.
The haven of Brough, close by the Head, is well-
sheltered from every wind but the north-west. The
harbour of Ham, or Holm, scarcely a mile to the east
of Brough, might also be rendered safe for small vessels
at little expense. It has, however, the inconvenience
of a bar of sand and gravel across the entrance of it,
upon which, there is not sufficient depth of water for
vessels in any great burden, but with spring-tides.
Scarfskerry is a narrow creek between two rocks,
and affords a convenient landing for boats with easy
weather, but is not capable of being much improved.
Dunnet-bay affords excellent flounders and haddocks;
and is sometimes frequented by shoals of herrings, in
July and August. Besides these, great quantities
of cuddins, as they are called here, or small saiths,
are caught in the summer-season. The frith abounds
with excellent cod and ling, which are found princi-
pally in deep water, in the tide- way, and taken with
a line of 50 or 60 fathoms, to which a single hook is
fixed, and a lead sinker. The village or hamlet of
Dunnet, situated to the east of Dunnet-head, and to
the north-east of the bay, has a beautiful exposure
and declivity to the south. There are several caves
in the rocks here, and the vestiges of some old chapels
are still to be seen. — Two inner cells of Picts' houses
exist at Ham. The entrances are about 8 feet asun-
der, and seem to have led from two outer circular
apartments, of about 17 or 18 feet diameter, which
appear to have had a communication from the one
to the other. The entrance to the largest cell is
near 30 inches wide; but as it is much filled up with
earth, it is not known what the height of it may have
originally been. The cell is about 9 feet long, and
6 feet wide about the middle ; but becomes narrower
towards the farther extremity, which is circular.
The roof is about 5 feet from the earth in the floor.
The walls are constructed of large rough stones, ap-
parently without any kind of cement. Every course
in the walls projects a little over that immediately
below it, till they approach within about 3 feet of
one another. That space is covered by a course of
strong stone lintels. The smaller cell is finished in
the same manner. And the whole is covered with
earth, which forms a beautiful green mount, about
8 or 9 feet above the level of the adjacent field. —
There is a grave-stone in the churchyard, the in-
scription on which is as follows: — "Here lies Mar-
garet Wallace, daughter of William Wallace, who
was murdered by Alexander Calder, son of Alexan-
der Calder in Dunnet, because he could not have
her in marriage. August the 29th, in the year of
God 1635." There is a tradition, that the mur-
der was committed on a Sunday morning ; and that
the murderer, by fleeing to Orkney, escaped punish-
ment Freestone of excellent quality is quarried at
Dunnet-head; but, in this remote region, it is of
little value Population, in 1801, 1,366; in 1831,
1,906. Houses 387. Assessed property .£10
This parish is in the synod of Sutherland and Caith-
ness, and presbytery of Caithness. Patron, Sir
James Colquhoun, Baronet. Stipend £191 4s. 6d, ;
glebe £12. Unappropriated teinds £8"0 12s. 9d.
— Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4id., with £10
fees. There are 4 non-parochial schools.
DUNNET-HEAD, an extensive promontory,
running into the Pentland frith, on the north-west-
ern point of the parish of Dunnet, in N. lat. 58°
to Dunnet. though no exact measurement has probably been
taken." — Old Statistical. Account l — Bee also on the subject of
these tides, article Canisbay*
DUN
403
DUN
40', and W. long. 3° 22'. It consists of several
hills interspersed with valleys, in which is a con-
siderable extent of pasture for small cattle and sheep.
Through its whole extent, Dunnet-head presents a
front of broken rocks to the sea, the height of which
varies from 100 to 400 feet. It is joined to the land
liy a narrow isthmus, about limile broad. A light-
house was erected on this headland in 1831. It
shows a fixed light, visible at the distance of 23
miles in clear weather, and elevated 340 feet above
high water. A great variety of fowls frequent the
rocks; one called the layer, or puffin, is found in no
other place of the British isles, except Hoyhead in
Orkney, and the cliffs of Dover.
DUNNICHEN,* a parish near the centre of For-
farshire, bounded on the north by Roscobie and
Kirkdcn ; on the east by Kirkden; on the south-
east and south by Carniylie ; and on the west by
Inverarity and Forfar. It is of extremely irregular
outline ; having a main body of nearly the form of a
parallelogram, and sending otTarms which embrace and
almost bisect the parish of Kirkden. Part of it, too,
is quite detached. It is about 4 miles in length, and
contains 4,024^ Scotch acres. The surface in gen-
eral consists of gently sloping ridges, and is consider-
ably high, but does not shoot up into any very great
elevations. The hill of Dunnichen, whose summit
forms the northern boundary line, and which stretches
about 3 miles in a south-easterly direction, is the high-
est ground; and at its loftiest point rises 520 feet
above the level of a stream on a neighbouring plain,
and 720 above the level of the sea. On the summit
and sides of this hill — which, with trivial exceptions,
is all cultivated or planted — the soil is a friable sandy
loam; and in most other parts of the parish it is
either of the same character as here, or a friable clay
with a retentive subsoil. A brook, called Vinny or
Finny, runs from west to east along the base of the
hill of Dunnichen, receiving some rills in its course,
and passes into Kirkden, there to disgorge itself into
the Lunan. The parish is ill-provided with roads.
The villages, in addition to Lethem, a place of con-
siderable rural importance, [See Lethem], are Dun-
nichen, where there is an annual fair, on the third
Wednesday of March, O. S. ; Dummitormont or
Drummietermon, and Cotlon of Lownie, both inha-
bited chiefly by small farmers, most of whom are
weavers ; and two hamlets, the one at Bouriefad
and the other at Craichy. Dunnichen house is a
fine mansion, beautifully embosomed in plantation.
Population of the parish, in 1801, 1,043; in 1331,
1,513. Houses 331. Assessed property, in 1815,
.£'3,505 Dunnichen is in the presbytery of Forfar,
and synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend .£158 2s. 3d. ; glebe £11. The
parish-church was built in 1802, and repaired in
1817. Sittings 456. An Independent chapel, situ-
ated in Lethem, was built in 1802. Sittings 360.
A chapel of the United Secession, also situated in
Lethem, was recently erected There are 3 schools,
2 of them non-parochial. One of the latter is in
Lethem, and the other at Dumburrow bridge. Pa-
rochial schoolmaster's salary .£34 4s. 4d., with school-
fees, and also £5 of other emoluments.
DUNNING, a parish in the south of Perthshire,
at the northern extremity of the Ochill chain, where
it terminates in Strathearn. It is bounded on the
north by Methven, from which it is separated by the
Earn; on the east by Forte viot and Forgandenny;
on the south by Kinross-shire; and on the. west by
Aucbterarder. It is intersected by several small
streams, tributaries of the Dunning water, which
' The n-.ime is supposed to consist of the Gaelic dun, 'a hill,?
and ttie word Nechttnl, the name of a Pittish chief who is tl a.
ditiouully reported to have resided in the parish.
flow northwards into the Earn. The village of
Dunning, near the centre of the parish, 5 miles east-
north-east of Auchterarder, was burnt by the rebels
in 1716. It is now a neat little town, under the
government of a baron-bailie, and having fairs on
the 2d Tuesday in May, O. S., the 20th of June,
and the 24th of October. The parish-church is
situated here, and there are also a United Secession
church, and a Relief church. The only manufacture
here is that of coarse linen Duncruib, the property
and residence of the ancient and noble family of
Rollo, in this parish, was a grant to the family of
Rollo, by David Earl of Strathearn, with the con-
sent of King Robert his father, the charter bearing
date the 13th of February, 1380; in 1512, it was
erected into a free barony ; and, in 1651, Sir Andrew
Rollo, Knt., was raised to the dignity of Baron
Rollo of Duncruib, by Charles II The House of
Keltie, the property of the Drummonds of Keltie, is
an ancient edifice. Population, in 1801, 1,504; in
1831, 2,045. Houses 297. Assessed property
£'6,593 This parish, formerly a chapelry, is in the
presbytery of Auchterarder, and synod of Perth and
Stirling. Patron, the Earl of Kinnoul. Stipend
£238 19s. 2d.; glebe £20. Unappropriated teinds
£13 18s. 6d Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4£d.,
with £18 fees. There are 2 private schools.
DUNNOTTAR, a parish in the county of Kin-
cardine, bounded on the north by Fetteresso parish,
from which it is divided by the rivulet Carron ; on
the east by the German ocean ; on the south by Kin-
neff; and on the west by Glenbervie parishes. Its
form is triangular, extending about 4 miles in length
on each side, by 2| in breadth, at the base along the
coast; and comprehending 8,156 superficial acres. It
is situated at the beginning of the great how or hollow
of the Mearns, which extends through the county of
Forfar, under the name of Stratkmore. The surface
is uneven, with frequent but inconsiderable risings,
which do not deserve the name of hills. Towards
the coast the soil is a kind of clay loam ; but as it
recedes it degenerates into a wet gravelly moor.
The sea-coast, especially that part of it called Fowls-
heugh, upwards of a mile in length, is very bold, and
formed of alternate strata of freestone and plum-
pudding-stone, the latter containing nodules of quartz
and limestone. There are many deep caves in the
rocks, which are much frequented by gulls, coots,
and other sea-fowls. At the north-eastern corner,
where the rivulet Carron runs into the sea, is situ-
ated the town of Stonehaven, the capital of the
county, having a fine natural harbour : See Stone-
haven'. The harbour is surrounded with excellent
quarries of freestone of a most durable quality, and
extremely valuable for building. The turnpike-road
from Montrose to Aberdeen passes through the town
of Stonehaven; and another road runs directly from
that town to Perth, through the valley of Strath-
more. The fishing- village of Cratown is situated on
the south-eastern boundary of the parish. Fishing is
very successfully carried on along the coast. Popu-
lation of the parish, in 1801, 1,973-1886; in 1831,
1852. Houses 326. Assessed property, in 1815,
£5,137.- — This parish is in the presbytery of For-
doun, and synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the
Crown. Minister's stipend £232 19s. lOd. ; glebe
£8. The church is situated near the Carron, not far
from Stonehaven. It was rebuilt in 1782 School-
master's salary £34 4s. 4£d., with about £54 4s. 6d.
of school-fees, &c. There are two private schools
in the parish. A school was to be erected in 1836,
at which 30 of the poorest children in the town or
burgh of Stonehaven are to receive gratuitous edu-
cation.
Dunnottaji Castle, in the above parish, stands
404
DUNNOTTAR.
on the coast about a mile-and-a-half to the south of
Stonehaven, on a stupendous perpendicular rock, 160
feet above sea-level. Its flat summit is several acres
in extent. The whole mass somewhat resembles, in
form, the rock on which Edinburgh castle is built,
projects into the sea, and is almost separated from the
land by a very deep chasm, which served as a kind of
natural fosse or ditch; the adjacent rock having been
scarped and rendered inaccessible by art. The castle
ruins consist of a series of stately towers and other
buildings occupying an extensive area, and rather re-
sembling a ruinous town than a dismantled fortress.
From its situation and its extent this celebrated
castle forms one of the most majestic ruins in Scot-
land ; and, before the era of artillery, must have been
impregnable. The only approach to it is by a steep
path winding round the body of the rock. The
entrance is through a gate, in a wall about 40 feet
high ; whence, by a long passage, partly arched over,
and through another gate pierced with four ceilettes
or loop-holes, the area of the castle is reached. This
passage was also formerly strengthened by two iron
portcullises. The area is surrounded by an em-
battled wall, and occupied by buildings of very dif-
ferent ages, which, though dismantled, are, in gen-
eral, tolerably entire, wanting only roofs and floors.
*' The battlements, with their narrow embrasures,"
says the author of ' A Summer Ramble,' " the strong
towers and airy turrets full of loop-holes for the
archer and the musketeer, — the hall for the banquet,
and the cell for the captive, — are all alike entire and
distinct. Even the iron rings and bolts that held the
culprits, for security or torture, still remain to attest
the different order of things which once prevailed in
this country. Many a sigh has been sent from the
profound bosom of this vast rock, — many a despair-
ing glance has wandered hence over the boundless
wave. — and many a weary heart has there sunk re-
joicing into eternal sleep." The most ancient edi-
fice, except the chapel, is a square tower said to have
been built about the latter end of the 14th century.
A large range of lodging-rooms and offices, with a
long gallery of 120 feet, seems to be of a very modern
date, — not older than the latter end of the 16th cen-
tury. There are ruins of various other buildings and
conveniences necessary or proper for a garrison, such
as barracks, a basin or cistern of water 20 feet in di-
ameter, a bowling-green, and a forge said to have been
used for casting iron bullets. The building now called
the chapel was at one time the parish-church ; for,
notwithstanding its difficulty of access, the church,
and even the burial-place of the parish, were origi-
nally situated on the top of this rock. During the
contention between Bruce and Baliol, its natural
strength induced Sir William Keith, the great maris-
clial of Scotland, to build a castle on it as a place of
safety for himself and his friends during these trouble-
some times ; but, in order to avoid offence, he first
built a church for the parish in a more convenient
place; notwithstanding which, the bishop of St.
Andrews excommunicated him for violating sacred
ground. Sir William, on this, applied to Pope
Benedict XIII., setting forth the exigency of the
case, and the necessity of such a fortress, with the
circumstance of his having built another church ;
on which his holiness issued his bull, dated 18th
July, 1394, directing the bishop to take off the ex-
communication, and to allow Sir William to enjoy
the castle at all times, on the payment of a certain
recompense to the church ; after which it continued
in the Keith family till the forfeiture of the late Earl
in 1715. About the year 1 296 this castle was taken by
Sir William Wallace, who, according to his historian,
burnt 4,000 Englishmen in it. Blind Harry gives the
following very lively account of this achievement :
Tiie Englishmen, that durst them not abide
Before the host full fear'dly forth they flee
To Dunnoter, a swake within the sea.
No further they might win out of the land.
They 'sembled there while they were four thousand.
Ran to the kirk, ween'd (firth to have tane,
The lave remained upon the rock of stane.
The bishop there began to treaty ma,
Their lives to get, out of the land to ga;
But they were rude, and durst not well
WaMace in lire gart set all hastily,
Burnt up the kirk and all that was therein.
Attour the rock the lave ran with great din ;
Some hung on crags, right dolefully to dee,
Some lap, some fell, some nuttered'in the sea,
No Southern in life was left in that hold,
And them within they burnt to powder cold.
When this was done, feil fell on their knees down.
At the bishop asked absolution.
"When Wallace leugh, said, I forgive you all ;
Are ye war-men, repent ye for so small ?
They rued not us into the town of Air,
Our true barons when they hanged there!
In 1336 the castle of Dunnottar was refortified by-
Edward III. in his progress through Scotland ; but,
as soon as he had quitted the kingdom, it was re-
taken by Sir Andrew Murray, the Regent of Scot-
land. No further event of any historical interest or
importance in respect to this castle occurred for many
centuries afterwards, during which it was the chief
seat of the Marischal family. But, in the time of
the great civil war, it was besieged by the Marquis
of Montrose ; the Earl Marischal of that day being a
staunch Covenanter. The earl had immured him-
self in his castle, together with a great many of his
partizans, including 16 covenanting clergymen who
had here sought refuge from Montrose. The earl
would have come to terms with Montrose ; but he
was dissuaded by his ministerial party, and the
royalist at once subjected his property to military
execution. Stonehaven and Cowie, which belonged
to the vassals of the Earl Marischal, were burnt ;
the woods of Fetteresso shared their fate, and the
whole of the lands in the vicinity were ravaged.
The earl is said to have deeply regretted his rejec-
tion of Montrose's proposals, when he beheld the
smoke ascending from his property ; " but the fa-
mous Andrew Cant, who was among the number of
his ghostly company, edified his resolution at once
to its original pitch of firmness, by assuring him that
that reek would be a sweet-smelling incense in the
nostrils of the Lord, rising, as it did, from property
which had been sacrificed to the holy cause of the cove-
nant." During the Commonwealth, Dunnottar castle
was selected as the strongest place in the kingdom
for the preservation of the regalia from the English
army which then overran the country. Being de-
posited in this castle by order of the privy-council,
Earl Marischal obtained from the public a garrison,
with an order for suitable ammunition and provisions.
Cromwell's troops, under command of Lambert, be-
sieged the castle, which was put under command of
George Ogilvy of Barras, in this parish, as lieutenant-
governor ; the earl himself having joined the king's
forces in England. Ogilvy did not surrender till
the siege had been converted into a blockade, when
he was reduced by famine and a consequent mutiny
in the garrison. He had previously, however, re-
moved the regalia by a stratagem on account of
which he was long imprisoned in England. Mrs.
Granger, wife of the minister of Kinneif, had re-
quested permission of Major-general Morgan, who
then commanded the besieging army, to visit Mis.
Ogilvy, the lady of the lieutenant-governor. Having
obtained permission, Mrs. Granger, who was a re-
solute woman, packed up the crown among some
clothes, and carried it out of the castle in her lap ;
her servant maid, at the same time, carrying the
sword and sceptre on her back, in a bag of flax.
The English general very politely assisted the lady
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405
DUN
to mount her horse. The regalia were kept some-
times in the church of Kinneff, concealed under the
pulpit, and at other times in a double-bottomed bed
ut the manse, till the Restoration, in 1660. when they
were delivered to Mr. George Ogilvy, who presented
them to Charles II. For this good service, with his
long imprisonment and loss of property, Ogilvy re-
ceived no farther mark of royal favour or reward than
the title of Baronet and a new coat-of-arms. Sir
John Keith, brother to the Earl Marischal, was cre-
ated Earl of Kintore ; but honest Mr. Granger and
his wife had neither honour nor reward. The family
of Barras have still in their custody a receipt granted
by the Earl Marischal on the delivery of the regalia,*
Duimottar was used, in the year 1C85, as a state
prison for confining the Covenanters, males and fe-
males, who, to the number of 167, had been seized
at different times in the west of Scotland, during the
persecution under Charles II. In the warmest sea-
son of the year they were all barbarously thrust into
a vault, still called ' the Whig's vault,' where a num-
ber of them died, and a grave-stone in the church-
* Sir Walter Srntt, in a letter addressed to Mr. Crnker, says:
•' The castle of Duimottar, though very strong, and faithfully
defended, was at length under the necessity of surrendering; be-
ing the lastbtrnug place in Britain on which the royal flag floated
in these calamitous times. Ogilvie and his lady were threatened
with the utmost extremities by the republican general, Morgan,
unless they should produce Hie regalia. The governor stuck
to it that he knew nothing of them ; ns in fact they bad been
carried away without bis knowledge. The lady maintained she
had given them to John Keith, second son of the Earl-Mari-
sehal, by whom, she said, they had beeu carried to France.
They suffered a long imprisonment and much ill-usage. On
the Restoration, the old Countess Marischal, founding upon the
story Mrs. Ggilvie had told to screen her husband, obtained for
her own son, John Keith, the earldom of Kintore, and the post
of Knight-mari.chal, with £400 a-year, us if he had been in
truth the preserver of the regalia. It soon proved that this re-
ward had been too hastily given ; for Ogilvie of Barra produced
the regalia, the honest clergyman refusing to deliver them to
any one but those froth whom lie received them. Ogilvie was
made a Knight-baronet, however, and got a new charter of the
lands acknowledging this good service. Thus it happened,
oddly enough, that Keith, who was abroad during the transac-
tion, and had nothing to do with it, got the earldom, pension,
&e. ; Ogilvie only inferior honours; and the poor clergyman
nothing whatever, or, as we say, the hare's foot to lick. As
for Ogilvie's lady, she died before the Restoration, her health
being destroyed by the hardships she endured from the Croin-
wellian satellites. She was a Douglas, with all the high spirit
of that proud family. On her death-bed, and not till then, she
told her husband where the honours wem concealed, charging
him to suffer death rather than betray them." [Xife of Sir W.
Scott, vol. iv. pp. 117, 118-2— These regalia, as is well known,
are now deposited in the crowD-room in Edinburgh castle.
The interest attaching to them, however, depends not on their
splendour, but on the manv momentous historical events with
which they are associated. ' The principal object is the Crown,
which has overshadowed the brows of so many monarchs, from
the heroic restorer of Scottish independence, to the boyish
James : for there seems good reason for believing that the lower
and massy portion, consisting of the purest metal, was the iden-
tical gulden circlet worn by Robert Bruce. Lateral ornaments
were added by succeeding monarchs ; and at last it assumed its
present elegant shape, and was closed in at the top, to distinguish
this royal badge from the coronets then generally adopted by
the nobles. When one of these aspired to regal power, he was
said to be about to "close Ins coronet." The imperial crown
of Scotland is of pure gold, enriched with diamonds, pearls, and
curious enamelling*. It differs from the crown of England :
the latter being alternately adorned with crosses patee, and
Hours de lis ; whereas the Scotch crown has only crosses floree ;
such as we see on our old coins and churches. It is !J inches
in diameter, and, from the union circle to the top of the cross
patee, (the only one upon the crown,) on the summit of the
golden celestial globe, bi- inches. The stem of the sceptre is in
the form of a hexagon, '2 feet in length. Under the figure of
the Virgin Mary, is the letter J; under that of St. James, the
letter R; and beneath St. Andrew, the figure 5. Ten thistles
encircle the stem. The whole length of the sceptre is .'11 inches.
Pope Julius 2d presented the sword to James IV. It is 5 feet
long On the blade are indented with gold, Julius II. P. ; and,
»ii the scabbard, in golden characters, Julius II. PON. MAX.. N.
His Holiness had for his armorial figures, an oak-tree puctuate,
a hill, and a star. The two latter cannot be found on the sword:
probably they were; on the two enamelled plates which are
now lost from off the pommel. That he bad such armorial fig-
ures is certain, from the verses made by Voltoline, a famous
Btalian poet, said to have been found in a monastery:
Queicus, Moris, Stella, formant tuastemmata, Princeps
tiisque tribus trinum stat diademn tuuin.
Tuta ratis Petri, mediis lion hVctitu'r undis,
Moiis teyit a veutis, stella^ne inoustrat iter.
yard of Dunnottar records their place of burial. The
castle was dismantled soon after the rebellion of
1715, on the attainder of James Earl Marischal.
DUNOLLY, a castle built on a great rock on the
shore, about 2 miles from Dimstaffnage in Mid- Lorn.
" Nothing," says Sir Walter Scott, "can be more
wildly beautiful than the situation of Dunolly. The
ruins are situated upon ahold and precipitous promon-
tory, overhanging Loch-Etive, and distant about a
mile from the village and port of Oban. The prin-
cipal part which remains is the donjon, or keep ;
but fragments of other buildings, overgrown with
ivy, attest that it had been once a place of impor-
tance, as large apparently as Artornish or Dunstaff-
nage. These fragments enclose a court-yard, of
which the keep probably formed one side : the en-
trance being by a steep ascent from the neck of the
isthmus, formerly cut across by a moat, and defended
doubtless by outworks and a drawbridge. Beneath
the castle stands the present mansion of the family,
having on the one hand Loch-Etive, with its islands
and mountains; on the other, two romantic emi-
nences tufted with copsewood. There are other
accompaniments suited to the scene ; in particular, a
huge upright pillar, or detached fragment of that sort
of rock called plum-pudding stone, upon the shore,
about a quarter of a mile from the castle. It is called
Clac/i~na-cuify or the Dog's pillar, because Fingal is
said to have used it as a stake to which he bound his
celebrated dog Bran. Others say, that when the
Lord of the Isles came on a visit to the Lord of
Lorn, the dogs brought for his sport were kept be-
side this pillar. Upon the whole, a more delightful
and romantic spot can scarce be conceived ; and it
receives a moral interest from the considerations at-
tached to the residence of a family once powerful
enough to confront and defeat Bruce, and now sunk
into the shade of private life." [' Lord of the Isles,'
Note.] It is now possessed by M'Dougalof that ilk,
the representative of the ancient family of this name.
Such is the traditionary reminiscence of the dignity
of Dimstaffnage, that, according to the inhabitants
of the district, Dunolly was little more than one of
the office-houses connected with the palace. For,
misled by similarity of sound, if not partly by the
love of the marvellous, as in Gaelic ollamli — pro-
nounced ol/ak — signifies 'a physician,' it is received
as an historical fact that the medical practitioner who
was attached to the royal family had this castle al-
lotted to him as his residence, the name being ren-
dered 'the Fort of the physician,' While, however,
the absurdity of the idea appears, not only from the
distance, which must have rendered it quite ineli-
gible as a residence for one whose services would be
often required at a moment's warning, but from the
total improbability that a place of such consequence
would be assigned to any officer of the court ; it
seems to be directly opposed to historical proof of a.
far more authentic character than the greatest part
of that which our meagre records furnish in regard to
so remote a period. Olaf was a very common name
among the Danes and Norwegians. It appeared in
different forms i as in that of Aulniv, Auluj, Olavc,
Olo, and in Latin of Olaus. Of this name there was
a Scandinavian king of Dublin, a. d. 853, and an-
other, a. D. 959. Somerled, Thane of Argyle, and
Lord of the Isles, who flourished about the middle ot
the 12th century, married a daughter of Olaus, King
of Man, from whom our genealogists deduce two
dynasties, distinguished, in the stormy history of the
middle ages, — the Lords of the Isles, and the Lords
of Lorn. As the Norse princes — whether coming
immediately from Norway, from the Orkneys, from
Ireland, or from Man — made frequent descents on the
western coasts and islands of Scotland, it seems al-
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406
DUN
most certain that the name Dunolly signifies ' the
Fortified hill of Olave.' That it was a place of very
considerable consequence in that quarter, and had
received this name, even before the close of the 7th
century, is undeniable, from the notice taken of it in
that invaluable relic of antiquity, the ' Annals of
Ulster.' Here it is mentioned, " a. d. 685. Com-
bussit Tula aman {sic) Duin Olla." It is after-
wards said, — " 700. The destruction of Dunailaby
Selvach." — " 713. Dun Olla construitur apud Sel-
vaon." — "733. Talorgan filius Drostani eompre-
hensus alligatur juxta arcem Olla." — "852. Aulay,
King- of Lochlin," i. e. of Scandinavia, " came into
Ireland, and all the foreigners of Ireland submitted
to him." In the oldest map we have of Lorn — that
of Timothy Pont — Dunolly is denominated Doun
oldi/f. Pinkerton entertains the same idea as to the
origin of the name. In reference to one of the pas-
sages quoted from the Annals of Ulster, in which the
place is called Dunolla, he says : " This is surely
the noted Castle in Lorn." ['Enquiry,' ii. 122.]
That excellent northern scholar Johnstone gives the
same explanation : — " Dun Obj, i. e. Olave 's tower.
The place might receive this name, from having been
the residence of Olave, the youngest son of Somer-
led, thane of Argyle." [' Haco's Expedition against
Scotland,' Note 77.] — There was lately discovered
at Dunolly, an interesting subject for antiquarian
examination. Some workmen employed in removing
the soil from a spot immediately under the rock
upon which the ruins of the castle stand, and oc-
cupied for at least a century past as garden ground,
came, at the depth of about five feet, to a bed of
ashes covering a considerable surface. A layer of
loose stones, about four feet deep, succeeded, and
upon being removed, showed the top of a wall of
solid mason-work, running parallel with and closely
attached to the castle rock. Curiosity led to the re-
moval of apartof the wall, and the trouble was recom-
pensed by discovering the entrance to a spacious cav-
ern, the whole interior of which was ornamented with
the most beautiful stalactites. But — what will ex-
cite a deeper feeling — the excavators found that they
had broken in upon the slumbers of the dead ; for,
placed regularly round the bottom of the cave, lay
many mouldering remnants of mortality. In the
centre of this charnel-house was a large flag-stone
covering an opening not unlike a modern grave ;
but nothing was found in it to disclose the purpose
for which it had been reserved. Among the ashes
were the bones of various animals, pieces of iron,
remains of broadswords, a few defaced coins, and
other vestiges of the hand of man. There is no
existing tradition of the cave, or the use to which
it had been dedicated. — Thomas Brydson, in his
' Pictures of the Past,' has the following pleasing
verses on Dunolly castle : —
The breezes of this vernal day
Come whlsp'ring through thine empty hall,
And stir, instead of tapestry,
The weed upon the wall j
And brine; from out the miirm'rtng spa,
And bring from out the.voeal wood,
The sound of nature's joy to thee,
Mocking; thy solitude.
Yet proudly, 'mid the tide of years.
Thou lift'st OTi high thine airy form —
Seene of primeval hopes and fears —
Slow yielding to the storm !
From thy gray portal oft at morn.
The ladies and the squires would go,
While swell'd the hunter's bugle-horn
lu the green glen below ;
And minstrel-harp, at starry nigttt.
Woke the high strain of battle here,
When with u wild and stern delight
The vvurrior stoop'd to hear.
All fled for ever! leaving nought
Ssve lonely walls in ruin green.
Which dimly lead my wand'ring thought
To moments that have been.
DUNOON* and KILMUN, a parish in Argyle-
shire, in the district of Cowal, on the west side of
the frith of Clyde. It is about 24 miles in length,
and on an average 3 in breadth, but in some places
9 miles in breadth. The general appearance of the
eountry is flat and agreeable, having a few eminences
covered with natural wood in the back part of the
parish. The soil is sandy and fertile ; the coast is
also sandy, and presents no safe creek or harbour for
vessels of any burden. " It is probable," we are told
in the Old Statistical Account, "that the mount
on which the castle of Dunoon is situated, was once
surrounded by the sea ; and the minister's glebe has
a bank of sandy clay in it which seems to have been
formed by the sea." But this seat of royal greatness
is now so demolished that there is scarcely a vestige
of it remaining. This has been chiefly in consequence
of the dilapidations to which it has been subjected,
the stones having been abstracted for building the
adjoining cottages. It appears to have consisted of
three towers, — one looking up the frith, another in an
opposite direction, and a third guarding the approach
from the land. The first of these is the only one of
which there are any distinct traces. It has been of
a circular form. On the side parallel with the frith,
may be seen the remains of a small entrance, which
it is supposed must have served as a sally-port and
a place of escape in cases of emergency. It is be-
lieved that there are still a number of vaulted apart-
ments, pretty entire, under the ruins. The site of
the. castle includes about an acre of ground : being
* The orthography of this term has assumed a variety of
forms. It is erroneously given by Gough under that of Denoou;
and still more so in Timothy Font's mnp, where it iippeurs as
Dxinouy. In this map, the river ' Clyd' is represented as termi-
nating opposite to D u noon j and ' Dunbritan Fyrht' as com-
mencing immediately below. The industrious Macpherson has
pointed out Dunkwi or Dunhovyn as the capital castle of the
lordship of Cowal. The latter orthography corresponds with
Wyntoun's, which is Divnhocyn and Dumhoivyn; nearly agree-
ing in sound with Downhowne, that of Fordiui. Boece has
Downhome. Irvine explains Noviodunum as denoting * Dun-
noon castle, in Cowall, be-east To wart point.' He follows the
absurd mode adopted by Buchanan, who has often completely
disguised the local names of our country, by giving them a Latin
form totally removed from that which properly belongs to
ttiem or is indicative of their origin. According to this lorin,
the term has been supposed to be derived from the Gaelic dunt
'a castle,* and uuadh, 'new.' For Buchanan gives it as ' Novio-
dunum, vel Duimni Novum, in Covalia.' In the Old Statisti-
cal Account it is stated, that the castle of Dunoon was formerly
a nunnery ; and that the name comes from the Gaelie word
Ditii.jwoigh, which signifies 'the House of the virgins.' Were
this the origin, it should certainly have the plural form, Dun-
nan-oigheun. The denomination given by Pout, if not a typo-
graphical error, might seem to have originated from this term
in the singular. By Home, a preference has been given to the
etymon adopted by Buchanan, on the supposition that Dunoon
being the nearest fort on the frith of Dunbartou, and in all pro.
babiiity erected in a later age, was thence called New Fort.
But it must be evident that this idea is exceedingly vague.
There is no reason to suppose that Dunoon existed for nuiny
centuries after the fame of Dunbartou had been far spread ; or
that the former ever attained such eminence as to bring it iu
any respect into comparison, not to say competition, with the
latter. Such also was the distance between them, besides the
intervention of different arms of the sea, that the one could not
well be subsidiary to the other. Nor would the designation,
New Fort, he a sufficient murk of distinction, while there was
at least Douglass iu the immediate vicinity of Dunbartou, and
Rothesay in that of Dunoon. As our most ancient writers ex-
hibit this name in an aspirated form, perhaps there is ground
for viewing its origin as northern. Dunoon may, like Dunolly,
have received its designation from some Scandinavian chief.
Hogni was a common name among the colonists of Iceland ;
who, it is well known, emigrated from Norway in, the 9th cen-
tury. Although the form of Dunhovyn might suggest the idea
of affinity to Iceland hoefn, ' portus •/ it happens unfortunately
for such an etymon that there is no creek, or shelter of any
consequence, or safety, even for boats, at or near this villag. .
As Ouen was a name in Siotlnnd borne by Welsh, by Piets,
and by Scots, although sometimes appearing as Hottn, Eo<r<tnt
Eoghnn, fee, this fort may have been denominated q. Dun-
Oweitf or Dtm+Eogaii,
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DUN
much broader at the base, where it fronts the frith,
than behind. The received belief of the vicinity is, !
that there was a nunnery, at a little distance from
the castle, where stands ihe present church. In sup- |
port of this hypothesis, it has been urged, that on i
clearing away the ruins of the old chapel — part of j
which composed the church— when the workmen be-
gan to pull down the gable, they discovered abeauti- j
ful Gothic window which had previously been so
built up and plastered as to be indiscernible. But
this proves nothing as to the existence of a nunnery;
as it may reasonably be supposed that the chapel, '
appropriated to the worship of the court, would be
finished in the best style of the age. There is no
vestige, in our monastic history, of any nunnery in
this district. Near the castle stood the Torn-a.-m.Koid;
or 'the Hill of the court of justice,' the same which
is elsewhere called 'the Mote-hill.' Here also was
the GaUow-hill, the name of which sufficiently indi-
cates its appropriation. A ploughed field is still de-
nominated the cuspars, or the butts, marking the
scene of the ancient archery. The privilege of a
ferry was granted to the heritable keepers of this
castle, on condition of their supplying the garrison
with certain provisions.
The castle of Dunoon, it has been said, is of great,
but undefined, antiquity. It originally belonged to
the hereditary high-stewards of Scotland, to whom
Malcolm gave a grant of Bute and Cowal, in the
11th century. According to our historians, indeed,
Walter, the son of Fleance, having adhered to the
interests of Malcolm Canmore, not only received
from him the baronies of Renfrew and Kyle, but was
made Lord of Bute and Cowal, then at the king's
disposal, in consequence of an insurrection of the
islanders in quelling which he acted as his Majesty's
lieutenant and commander-in-chief. In reward for
his services, he was also made Dapifer Regis. His
son Alan was by King Edgar constituted Senescallus
Scotia?, or Great-steward of Scotland, whence ori-
ginated the family name. Dunoon had remained in
the possession of the Stewarts till the reign of
David II., who, in consequence of the insurrection
of Edward Baliol, a.d. 1333, had deserted the throne.
Baliol having overrun the country, among other for-
tresses took Dunoon. His despicable surrender of
the kingdom to Edward III. so disgusted the nobles,
that some of them rose in defence of their liberties;
and Robert the Steward, who had lain concealed in
Bute, resolved to stand forth in the public cause.
He escaped to Cowal, and aided by Colin Campbell
of Lochow, one of the ancestors of the family of
Argyle, made himself master of the castle of Dunoon,
A. D. 1334. In reward of his faithful service, Camp-
bell was made hereditary governor, and had the grant
of certain lands for the support of his dignity. Ro-
bert, the first king of the Stewart family, succeeding
David II., the castle would henceforth be viewed in
the more honourable light of a palace. In the year 1 544,
the Earl of Lennox, anxious to obtain the regency,
and having received the support of Henry VIII., ap-
peared in the frith of Clyde with IS vessels and 800 sol-
diers. Having made himself master of Rothesay, he
proceeded to Dunoon. Here he met with powerful
opposition from Archibald Earl of Argyle ; but the
latter was obliged to retreat with loss, being unable
to resist the force of Lennox's artillery. The whole
estate was consolidated by entail in the person of
Archibald the 1st Duke, A. D. 1706. Mary, it has
been asserted, in the month of August 1568,* paid a
* The nt'VDiilit given of this visit is obviously misdated. It
mold not have taken place A. o. 1563. It must refer to 156:1.
In a progress through tile west of Scotland, Mary having-, on
tlie 26tli July, left Inverary, where she had remained three
days, turned to Stroue, whore she slept, and went to Dunoon,
on the 27th, and there passed tile following day.
visit at Dunoon to her favourite sister the Countess
of Argyle. While here, she is said to have employed
herself in the diversion of deer-hunting, and to have
availed herself of the opportunity to grant charters
to her vassals. The person referred to must have
been Lady Jean Steuart, natural daughter of King
James V., who was the first wife of Archibald, Earl
of Argyle. How long Dunoou continued to be the
residence of the Argyle family is uncertain. Pennant
says : — " Inverary was inhabited about the latter end
of the 14th century by Colin, surnamed Tongollacli,
or 'the Wonderful,' on account of his marvellous
exploits; and, I may add, his odd whims; among
which, and not the least, may be reckoned the burn,
ing of his house at Inverary on receiving a visit from
the O'Neiles of Ireland, that he might have pretence
to entertain his illustrious guests in his magnificent
field-equipage. The great tower — which was stand-
ing till very lately — was built by the black Sir Colin,
for his nephew, the 1st Earl of Argyle, at that time
a minor. I do not discover any date to ascertain the
time of its foundation, any further than that it was
prior to the year 1480, the time of Sir Colin's death.
In December 1644, amidst the snows of this severe
climate, the enterprising Montrose poured down his
troops on Inverary, through ways its chieftain
thought impervious." It would appear, therefore,
that Dunoon was only the occasional residence of
the Argyle family ; as they were the hereditary
keepers of this palace.
The village of Dunoon originated from the resi-
dence of this noble family at the castle or palace. In
consequence of this, many of their vassals had houses
built in its vicinity, which they occupied when they
attended the court of their chief. Here also the
bishops of Argyle resided, at least occasionally, after
the restoration of episcopacy, in the reign of Charles
II. Near the church, the ruins of the bishop's house-
where one of the fire-places was still visible — were
till lately pointed out. In former times the island
of Lismore was the seat of those bishops, whence
they were called Episcopi Lismorenses. In the
18th century the village of Dunoon was very consi-
derable, and a place of resort on account of a ferry
which was the principal inlet to the district ; but a
new road being opened by Loch Lomond, round the
head of Loch Long, contributed to its decay, and it
sunk into insignificance until its recent creation as a
watering-place, by the citizens of Glasgow, many of
whom have built handsome residences here. The old
village has, in fact, nearly disappeared, and the whole
shore, from a point considerably to the south of Du-
noon, and round to near the Lazaretto at the mouth
of the Holy Loch, is thickly planted with cottage
and marine villas. A good timber quay has also been
erected for the accommodation of the numerous
steamers which touch here. Population, in 1801,
1,750; in 1831,2,416. Assessed property, in 1815,
£7,661. Houses, in 1831, 46'7. A survey made
under the direction of the parish-minister, in 1837,
gave 2,842 of population, of whom 2,464 were in
connexion with the Establishment. The population
of Kilmun as distinct from Dunoon, was 833 in 1837.
The Dissenters are chiefly in connexion with the
United Secession church Dunoon is the seat of a
presbytery, and is in the synod of Argyle. It is said
to be one of the most ancient parishes in Scotland.
The parish of Kilmun wa3 united to it both quoad
sacra and quoad civtlia, by the courts of teinds at a
date not known. Patron, the Duke of Argyle.
Stipend £275 2s. Id.; glebe £36 17s. Church of
Dunoon built in 1816; enlarged in 1834; sittings
793. The parish-minister officiates at Dunoon and
Kilmun alternately, from the middle of April to the
middle of October ; and during the rest of the year.
DUN
408
DUN
two sabbaths at Dunoon and one at Kilmun There
is a neat United Secession chapel at Dunoon ; built
in 1828; sittings 280. Stipend £120 See Kilmun.
A chapel has been recently erected within the dis-
trict of Toward, and a missionary officiates here and
in Kilfinan every alternate sabbath There are 3
parochial schools in this parish, and 6 private schools,
attended altogether by about 300 children. The
salary of one of the parochial schoolmasters is .-£30
per annum, with £28 fees ; of another £25 14s.,
with £18 fees ; and of the 3d £21 , with £8 8s. fees.
DUNPENDER, more commonly called Traprain
law, an isolated conical hill in the parish of Preston-
kirk, in East Lothian. It forms a conspicuous ob-
ject from numerous points in the county, especially
to travellers approaching Haddington from the east
or west.
DUNPHAIL, an ancient tower formerly belong-
ing to the Cummings, in the parish of Edenkeillie,
in Elginshire. It occupies the summit of a high iso-
lated rock, which appears to have been at one time
surrounded by the Divie, which here runs through
the extensive estate of Dunphail, the property of
Air. Cumming Bruce, the representative of the
Cummings of Dunphail, who has erected a splendid
modern mansion, in the Venetian style, in the imme-
diate vicinity of the tower.
DUNREGGAN, a small village in the parish of
Glencairn, Dumfries-shire, 16^ miles north-west of
Dumfries. It is situated on Dalwhat water, on the
opposite bank from Minnyhive, and communicates
with that village by a stone bridge. It has of late
been increased in its population by an influx of stran-
gers, and improved in its buildings and general ap-
pearance. Along with Minnyhive and a hamlet
called Kirkland, it has a population of about 1,000.
DUNROBIN CASTLE, the ancient seat of the
Earls of Sutherland, in the parish of Golspie, in
Sutherlandshire. It is still occasionally occupied by
the Duke of Sutherland, and is considered to be the
oldest inhabited residence in Britain. " I never felt,"
says Mrs. Sinclair, " a sensation so like being in a
balloon as when gazing from the drawing-room win-
dow of Dunrobin castle, perched like an eagle's aerie
on the summit of a lofty rock, and looking down on
the waving tops of the trees, the ocean furrowed
with streaks of foam, and the far-distant prospect of
Tarbetness, with its beacon-light
•' Streaming comfort o'er the troubled deep."
A long line of points and pinnacles terminates at
Trouphead, and if you can look on the whole view
without an ecstasy of admiration, shut your eyes on
Nature for ever after, as you are unworthy to behold
her. The park, though not highly dressed or orna-
mented, has the beauty of great extent, and is abun-
dantly wooded to the edge of the wide and intensely
blue ocean. Every tree so exposed to the wild
northern blast must have a precarious existence, and
those planted nearest the ocean generally perish on a
forlorn hope ; but no species can brave the sea-breeze
half so hardily as the Huntingdon willow, which has
outgrown all its cotemporaries at least twelve feet in
height, and is covered with abundant foliage, though
all shaped like flags, with a bare pole next the sea,
and the long branches fluttering and streaming to-
wards the land." [' Northern Circuit,' pp. 13, 14.]
— There are several curious portraits here; also some
old furniture, arms, and other ancient memorials.
DUNROD, See Kirkcudbright.
DUNROSSNESS, a parish in Shetland, to which
the parishes of Sandwick and Cunningsburgh are
united quoad civilia. It forms the southern extrem-
ity of the mainland; and is a peninsula washed on
three sides by the sea. The chief creeks are Quen-
dal Voe, West Voe, Grutness, and Aith's Voe.
Sumburgh-head, a bold high rock, composed of indu-
rated sandstone, in N. lat. 59° 51', and W. long. 1°
16', is the southern promontory. There is a light-
house upon it, showing a fixed light, elevated 300
feet above high water, and seen at the distance of 24
miles in clear weather. Fair isle is the only island
attached to this district ; but on the west side of
Dunrossness there is an island, or rather a peninsula,
connected to the main by a sandy beach, which is
sometimes flowed over by the water, called St. Nin-
ian's isle, on which stood a church, the site of which
can still be traced. It is said that the captain of a
Dutch vessel, being nearly lost in a storm at sea,
vowed, that if he was preserved from the dangers
that threatened him, he would build a church on the
first land at which he should arrive. This island was
the spot to which he first came, and here he built a
church, which he consecrated to St. Ninian. There
are the remains of another church on a projecting
headland called Ireland -head, not far from this.
There are several small lakes which abound with
fish. Population, in 1801, 3.201 ; in 1831, 4,405.
Assessed property, in 1815, £596. Houses, in 1831,
755 This parish is in the presbytery of Lerwick,
and synod of Shetland. Patron, the Earl of Zetland.
Stipend £208 6s. 8d. ; glebe £'8. Unappropriated
teinds £53 18s. 4d. Church built in 1790; sittings
858. There is a church on Fair Isle : see that
article. A small Baptist church, and a Methodist
church, are within the district of Dunrossness. In
1833 the districts of Sandwick and Cunningsburgh
were erected into a quoad sacra, parish by the Gen-
eral Assembly. See Sandwick. The extent of the
quoad sacra parish of Dunrossness is about 9 miles
by 4, with a population, in 1831, of 2,354.
DUNSCORE,* a parish on the western border of
the district of Nithsdale, Dumfries-shire. It is
bounded on the north by Glencairn and Keir; on
the east by Kirkmahoe and Holy wood ; on the south
by Holywood and Kirkcudbrightshire ; and on the
west by Kirkcudbrightshire. It has a figure re-
sembling the outline of the extended wings of a
butterfly; oblong, but compressed almost to bisection
in the middle. It stretches from west to east, and
measures, in extreme length, from Blackmark to an
angle a little south of Isle tower, llj miles. Lt
breadth it is exceedingly various ; measuring in the
middle, at the confluence of the Cairn and the Glen-
eslin, less than \ of a mile ; and from the southern
base of Colliston bill on the south, to an angle due
north on the opposite boundary, 3£ miles. Its area
contains between 23 and 24 square miles. The sur-
face in the upper or western district is rocky and
mountainous, but slopes down toward a central glen;
in the lower or eastern district it consists chiefly of
three diverging vales, with their intermediate hills;
but toward or along the eastern boundary it becomes
somewhat open, and is beautified by the meander-
ings of the Nith and the luxuriance of its holms.
The glen of the west is traversed by Gleneslin
water, and is 4 miles in length, and toward the bound-
ary becomes rocky and barren. The hills which
enclose it are heathy, and fit only for pasture ; and
one of them, called Bogrie hill, rises 1 ,200 feet above
the level of the sea. The Cairn intersects the par-
ish at its narrowest part; but previous and subse-
quent to the intersection it forms the western bound-
ary line for about 3 miles. It is here a more rapid
stream than the Nith, which it soon afterwards joins;
and after rain or thaw, it sometimes comes down
* The name is Scoto-Irish, and signifies ' the Strength or Fortlet
on tile projecting bank.' But the locality originally designated
by it is not pointed out even by tradition, and cunuot now ba
traced.
DUNSE.
409
with an impetuosity which very suddenly swells the
brook into a torrent. Dalgonar bridge, erected over
it above where it intersects the parish, is 80 feet in
span. The Nith, touching the eastern district for
about 2 miles, sparkles along in its usual brilliance,
and is gay and joyous in the adorning of its banks.
The loch and water of Urr form the western bound-
ary Hue, but are shut in by rugged, heathy uplands.
The soil along the Nith and the Cairn is rich allu-
vial loam ; in the higher districts it is, in general, a
light, stony loam, upon a till bottom ; and, in con-
siderable tracts, it is a spongy or a heathy moss.
The parish is intersected, near the eastern boundary,
by the turnpike from Dumfries to Glasgow; along
the vale of the Cairn by the road from Dumfries to
Minnyhive ; and from east to west, through its
whole length, by a road leading into Galloway The
old tower of Lag, situated at Haliday hill, and now
a ruin, is said to have been built in the reign of
James I1L, and was protected by an outer wall and
A ditch. It is square and narrow, but massive and
towering. Its last inhabitant was Sir Robert Grier-
son, of infamous memory, for the sanguinary part he
acted in the persecution of the Covenanters. In the
upper part of the vale of Gleneslin, overlooking a
gorge or narrow pass, are the two square towers of
Bogrie and Sunday well. The latter belonged, in the
times of the persecution, to a man whose memory is
odoriferous in tradition, John Kirk, who opened his
stronghold as a refuge to the persecuted, and afforded
frequent shelter and assistance to Blackadder and
other ejected ministers. From the deep mountain
seclusions in its vicinity, often did the appealing
psalmody of 'a conventicle' arise, and echo away
along the glens.— Friar's Carse, in the vale of the
Nith, was anciently a monastic establishment, de-
pendent on Melrose abbey. Though only some de-
tached antiquely sculptured stones remain as vestiges
of the edifice, the name is commemorated both in a
small lake and in the surrounding estate. On the
property is the small farm of Ellisland, celebrated as
the residence of the poet Burns during the palmiest
days of his career; and painted for a place in the
gallery of fame, by the limnings of his poetic pencil.
. — Dr. Crichton, a proprietor of Friar's Carie subse-
quent to James Riddell, Esq., the contemporary of
Burns, bequeathed to Dumfries .£100,000, with which
a county lunatic asylum has been erected. The cele-
brated John Welsh, son-in-law to John Knox, was a
native of Dunscore.. — The village or hamlet of Cot-
lack is in the eastern district, about half-a-mile from
the Cairn. Population of the parish, in 1801, 1,174;
in 1831, 1,488. Houses 260. Assessed property, in
1815, £23,926. — Dunscore is in the presbytery and
synod of Dumfries. Patron, the Crown. Stipend
£170 18s. 8d.; glebe £42 10s The parish-church
was built in 1823; sittings 850. There is in the
parish a Relief meeting-house. The church of Dun-
score belonged very early to the monks of Holy wood ;
and, for a time, it stood on litigated ground between
them and the monks of Melrose. Before the Re-
formation, this parish had several places of worship.
One of these, situated on Gleneslin water, can still
be traced in the vestiges of its walls, and is com-
memorated in the name of a farm called the Chapel.
The old parish-church stood considerably to the
eastward of the present one ; and its cemetery —
containing the remains of Grierson of Lag, and of
several families of note — is still in use. There are
in the parish 4 schools, 3 of which are parochial.
The salaries of the parochial schoolmasters amount
to £51 6s. 6Jd., divided into three nearly equal pro-
portions. The fees amount respectively to £20,
£15, and £10. Other emoluments are respectively
£9, A' 6, and £3.
DUNSE,* a parish at the northern limit of the
district of Merse in Berwickshire. It is bounded on
the north by Abbey St. Bathan's, and a detached
part of Longformacus ; on the north-east by Bun-
cle and Edrom ; on the south by Edrom ; on the
south-west by Langton ; and on the west by Long-
formacus. It is irregular in outline ; but may, in a
general view, be regarded as oblong. In extreme
length it measures 6 miles ; in average breadth 3^
miles; and in superficial area, about 21 square miles.
The northern division, comprising about one-third
of the area, is clothed in a heathy dress, variegated
with stripes of pastoral green and autumnal yellow ;
and running up the acclivity of the Lammermoor
hills, sends aloft near the boundary, the conspicuous
cone of Cockburnlaw [which see] 912 ftet above
the level of the ocean. The southern and larger
division undulates along the valley of the Merse,
with, in general, a delightfully rolling surface, a
rich and fertile soil, and an ample adorning of cul-
ture and grove. Dunse-law, north of the town of
Dunse, stands on a base of between 2 and 3 miles in
circumference, and rises in a gradual ascent on all
sides, till it terminates in a plain of nearly 30 acres,
630 feet above the level of the sea. Its table-sum-
mit was the site of the original town or village, and
is still tracked by the vestiges of the intrenched
camp of the army of Covenanters, under General
Leslie, who here sat down to watch the warlike
movements of Charles for enforcing prelacy. Whit-
adder water comes down upon the parish at it3
north-eastern angle, and forms its boundary-line over
a distance of 2i miles, offering to the luxurious
banquets of a delicious fish, called the whitling, from
16 inches to 2 feet long, and of high-coloured red
flesh similar to that of the salmon. A brook called
Langton burn flows down from the west, and forms
the whole of the southern boundary-line, falling
into the Blackadder at the point of leaving the
parish. An artificial lake, in the vicinity of Dunse
castle, abounds with perch and eels, and forms a
smiling feature in the landscape. A moss skirts the
south side of the town, stretching from east to west,
and, except by one pathway, was in ancient times
impassable. Another moss — celebrated for the mur-
der of the Chevalier de la Beaute by Home of Wed-
derburn, and called, from the name of the victim
whose blood it drank, Batties bog —stretches along
the confines of the parish of Edrom. Dunse castle,
a little north-west of the town, is a magnificent
Gothic edifice, agglomerated with a surviving tower
of an earlier and ancient structure, believed to have
been built by Randolph, Earl of Moray. Wedder-
burn castle, at the south-east limit of the parish, and
Manderston, 1+. mile north of the former, are ele-
gant mansions, surrounded by tastefully ornamented
demesnes. Dunse was formerly haunted and scourged
by pestilence, and, so late as 90 years ago, was de-
populated by ague and putrid fever ; but, in conse-
quence of rapid improvements in draining and culti-
vating the soil, it eventually attained a healthy cli-
mate. Four lines of road diverge from the town
nearly in the direction of the cardinal points ; and
lead the way through the parish respectively toward
Edinburgh, Berwick, Coldstream, and Lauder. -Dunse
is rich in the fame of distinguished natives; and boasts
names of no less eclat among scholars and divines
than those of John Duns Scotus, ' the angelic doc-
tor,'— Thomas Boston, the well-known author of
' The Fourfold State,'— -Dr. Thomas M'Crie, the bio-
grapher of Knox and Melville, — and Dr. Abraham
Robertson, Savilian professor of astronomy at Oxford.
* The name was anciently written Duns, and ia simply the
Celtic Dun, which means 'a hill,' and was applied to the beauti-
ful eminence called Dunse-law*
DUN
410
DUN
Population of the parish, including the town, in
1801, 3,157; in 1831, 3,469. Houses 530. Assessed
property, in 1815, £16,196.
Dunse gives name to a presbytery, and is in the
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, Hay of
Drummelzier. Stipend .£291 13s. 5d. ; glebe £25.
Unappropriated teinds £477 2s. lid. The parish-
church was built in 1790. Sittings 837 A new
church in connexion with the Establishment, called
Boston church, was opened in 1839 There are in
the town two meeting-houses of the United Secession,
and one of the Relief. The first United Secession
congregation was established about the year 1738,
and built their meeting-house, with 580 sittings, in
1740. Stipend £120; with a house, offices, garden,
and small glebe, of the yearly value of £25 The
second United Secession congregation was established
about the year 1768. Their meeting-house was built
about the year 1821, at the cost of nearly £2,000.
Sittings 1,008. Stipend £160; with a house, gar-
den, and stable, of the annual value of £30 The
Relief congregation was established about the year
1750. Sittings in their meeting-house, 800. Stipend
£120 Dunse has a parochial school, conducted by
2 teachers, and attended by a maximum of 137 scho-
lars; and 11 non-parochial schools, conducted by 12
teachers, and attended by a maximum of 707 schol-
ars. Of the non-parochial schools, one is a girls'
boarding-school, 2 more are girls' schools, and 1 is a
boys' school. Salary of the parochial schoolmaster,
subject to an allowance for an assistant, £34 4s. 4jd.,
with £70 school-fees, £20 other emoluments, and a
house.
Dunse, a burgh-of-barony, and the most impor-
tant town in Berwickshire, stands on a fine plain at
the southern base of Dunse-law, 7| miles from Green-
law, 11 from Ayton, 15J- from Berwick-upon-Tweed,
104 from Coldstream, and 44 by way of Haddington
from Edinburgh. Situated in the centre of the
county, and unrivalled in extent, attractions, and
marketing importance, it is the virtual, though not
the civil, capital of Berwickshire. It is neat and
modern in its edifices, spacious and tidy in its streets,
and pleasing, though not brilliant, in its general
burghal appearance. In the market-place — which is
a fine open area or square — stands the town-house,
a beautiful Gothic structure of modern erection, sur-
mounted by a very elegant and tasteful spire. An
array of good houses, large shops, and commodious
churches and seminaries, imparts to the town a cheer-
ful aspect. As the scene of most of the legal busi-
ness of the county, a large body of provincial law-
yers figure among its population. Most of the
inhabitants are shopkeepers, handicraftsmen, and
dependents on the marketing, from an extensive
range of agricultural country. Though there is some
weaving conducted in the town and neighbourhood,
yet it does not sensibly impress on the town a
manufacturing character. A weekly market on
Wednesday, 3 annual fairs for cattle, and quarterly
markets for sheep, draw down upon it the stir and
the traffic by which it mainly subsists. The fair held
at Dunse on the 1st Thursday of June is an impor-
tant one for fat cattle, which are mostly purchased
by English dealers. There is usually a small show
of sheep also at this fair. Dunse August fair has
declined of late years. It is also a hiring-market,
and is held on the 26th of the month, or the Tuesday
after when that date falls on a Saturday, Sunday, or
Monday. The November fair is held on the 17th of
the month. It has also declined. The 1st of the
sheep-markets is held on the 4th Wednesday of
March, and is chiefly for the sale of ewes in lamb;
the 2d, on the 3d Wednesday of May, is for hogs
and wethers; the 3d, on the 2d Wednesday of July,
is principally for lambs, and is also a great wool-
market. The 4th sheep-market is held on the 4th
Wednesday of September, and is principally for
draft ewes. A subscription library, 2 circulating
libraries, a news-room, 2 booksellers' shops, and a
printing-office, seem to indicate the presence of a
literary taste ; and 2 friendly societies and a savings'
bank intimate laudable concern for the interests of
the poor. The tovvn is the seat of a justice-of-
peace court, on the first Monday of every month ;
and it has branch-offices of the British Linen com-
pany's bank, and the Bank of Scotland.
Dunse is of considerable antiquity, and appears to
have been at one time a free burgh-of-barony, whose
burgesses had power to choose a magistracy, and
create corporations. In 1670, Sir James Cockburn
of Cockburn, who had purchased the estate of
Dunse from Hume of Ayton, obtained from Charles
II. a charter, erecting it under him into a burgh-of-
barony ; and since that date, he and his successors in
his claims have nominated a bailie to its government,
without consulting the feuars and inhabitants. The
baronial right of superiority was subsequently ac-
quired, and continues to be possessed by Hay of
Drummelzier. The south part of the town stands
on the barony of Crumstane, belonging to the same
superior. Yet the inhabitants of Dunse are a private
association, who manage the police and the common
good, and are called ' the feuars of Dunse,' in the
same way that the inhabitants of royal burghs are
called burgesses. The common good or property of
the feuars consists of the town-house, which draws
rent from the county of Berwick, and parties occa-
sionally using its hall, and which is fitted up in the
lower floor in shops ; 10 acres of land on a neighbour-
ing muir, which contain a whinstone quarry ; and the
proceeds of the manure of the town, and the weigh-
ing-machine or steel-yard. The annual revenue de-
rived from these sources is £123 15s. ; and the an-
nual expenditure for the year 1833, was £140 5s.
lid. Six corporations or crafts formerly existed,
and claimed exclusive privileges; but during the last
27 years they have practically ceased. During 120
years after the cession of Berwick-upon-Tweed to
England, Dunse shared with Lauder the privilege of
being the county-town ; and not even in favour of
Greenlaw, was it wholly deprived of that privilege
till the year 1696. There were within the burgh,
in 1833, 148 householders, whose rents were £10
and upwards, and 84, whose rents amounted to £5,
but were under £10.
DUNSINNAN, or Dunsinane, one of the Sid-
law hills, in the parish of Collace, and county of
Perth, 8 miles north-east of that town. It rises in
a conical form, with a fiat and verdant summit, to
the heightof l,114feet above sea-level, and 800 feet
from its base, and commands a fine view of Strath-
more and Blairgowrie. At one place is to be traced
a winding road cut into the rock; on the other sides
it is steep and of difficult access. It has been a
military station, defended by a strong rampart ana
fosses which went quite round the upper part of the
hill. The area within the rampart is of an oval
form, 210 feet long, 130 broad, and a little lower
than the ruins of the rampart itself, the height of
which, as appears from the immense mass remaining,
must have been great. This stronghold, which is
15 miles distant from Birnam, is attributed to the
usurper Macbeth; and the traditions in the neigh-
bourhood concerning the predictions of the witches,
and the defeat and death of the Thane, are so
similar to Shakspeare's history of Macbeth, that
it is probable the great dramatist had visited the
spot himself when in Scotland — Dunsinnan house,
delightfully situated amid extensive plantation*
DUN
411
DUN
with a southern exposure, is a fine mansion, and
has been recently enlarged and improved. Wil-
liarr Nairne, Esq., a younger son of the Dunsinnan
family, toward the close of last century, and during
nine years of the present, adorned the situations of
senator of the College of Justice, and member of the
High court of Justiciary, bearing the title of Lord
Dunsinnan.
DUNSKERRY, a small island of Sutherland, 4
miles north of the promontory of Farouthead.
DUNSTAFFNAGE,* an ancient castle in Mid
Lorn, Argyleshire, remarkable for being one of the
first seats of the Scottish princes. It is situated on
a promontory, almost insulated in that beautiful
arm of the sea called Loch-Etive; and if romantic
and magnificent scenery, and the pleasing interchange
of mountain and valley, — wood and water, — sea and
land, — island and continent, — conjoined with all
those recollections, borrowed from the earliest ages
of our history, which are most gratifying to national
feeling, — be viewed as inducements in selecting the
site of a royal residence, it might well be questioned
whether Scotland could present one more desirable
than the vicinity of Dunstaffnage. On the west, Dun-
staffnage fronts that beautiful and fertile island, fitly
denominated Lismore, or Leasmore, — 'the Great
garden,' — beyond which towers the bleak and rocky
Mull. The prospect terminates, towards the north,
with the lofty mountains of Morvern; while the
view is enriched with a cluster of small islands scat-
tered in various directions. Behind it lies that for-
tress, celebrated in our ancient chronicles under the
name of Berigonium, and also the ruined priory of
Ardchattan: See these articles. "The builder of
this castle," says Grose, "and time of its construc-
tion are unknown. It is certainly of great anti-
quity, and was once the seat of the Pictish and
Scottish princes. Here, for a long time, was pre-
served the famous stone, the Palladium of Scotland,
brought, as the legend has it, from Spain. It was
afterwards removed by Kenneth II. to Scone, and is
now in Westminster abbey, brought thither by King
Edward L On it was the following inscription:
Ni fallat fatmn, Scoti quocunque Incafum
Invenient lapldem, regnare tenenlur ibidem."
Our venerable Wyntoun has thus rendered this
ancient national prophecy :
* The form of this name has been considerably varied by dif-
ferent writers, Bv Boece, and his ancient translator, Bellen-
den, it is written Dounstafage, or Douustaphage; by Fordun,
or rather his continuatnr Bower, Dunstatineh. In Bleau's
map it is Dunstafage. There has not been less variety in re-
gard to the etymon given of this name. Camden, having said
that Dunstafage was "anciently 44 royal residence," explains
the term as signifying 'Stephen's mount.' This idea appears
to have been borrowed from our Boece, — the father of so many
fables in the history of Scotland. Speaking' of a king whom he
calls Evenus, he says : " Arcem baud procul a Berigonin loco
Itatiira invictissimo a?dificavit, Evoniuoi dixit, a alio nomine,
nunc, Dounstafage voluo, id estcastrum Stephani, appellatum."
[Hist. Fol. ill a.] For it is to be observed, that, according to
our writers, this palace bad both a vulgar and a royal designa-
tion. Belleoden has thus rendered the passage : " Kyng Ewin
flight ane castell, ndcht far fra Berigon, oallit Mian [then]
Ewin, efter his name, now callit Dounstafage." It is observ-
able, that Belleuden leaves out the explanation of the vulgar
name, which had been given by Boece, as apparently not satis-
tied that it was well-founded. He bad, indeed, good reason for
hesitation; as there is no evidence that it is any thing more
than a monkish dream, like the origin assigned to the name of
the town of Montrose, — Mons rosarumt — 'the Mount of roses,'
— the least appropriate designation that fancy could possibly
devise for a dry, barren isthmus of sand, apparently forced up
by the action of the waves, — a mount on which a rose never
grew but by the diligence of horticulture. As Stephen is a
iiame scarcely known in Gaelic nomenclature, DuiistatfiiRge
has been rendered, by those who seem best acquainted with
the language, Dun agus (pronounced in) tu inish, as signifying
Mhe Fortified hill with two islands,' descriptive of tlie local
eituation, the place having been denominated Irom t,vo islands
which lie north from the castle. With this account Bower's
orthography of Dunstuunch most closely agrees.
But ffyf Werdys falyhand be,t
Quhare-evyr that stane yhe segyt se,
Thare sail the Scottis he regnand
And lordys haleoure all that land.
CttONYKIL, B. iii. c. 9.
Boece has given the same legendary prediction.
According to Wyntoun, Fergus, the son of Ere.
brought this " stone of power" with him from Ire-
land into Scotland; but, before it reached Dunstafl-
nage, it had visited Icolmkill in its way. He, in-
deed, altogether omits the mention of this palace in
the history of its peregrinations, which might almost
vie with those of the cottage of " our Lady of Lo-
retto." For, according to his account, Fergus
Broucht this stane wytht-in Scotland
Fyrst quhen he come and wane that land,
And fyrst it set in Ikkolmkil,
And Skune thare-eftir it wes broucht tyle
And tbare it wes syne mony day,
Qhyll Edward gert have it away, &c.
Leslie asserts that it was brought from Argyle to
Scone by Kenneth Macalpine.f " This castle," Pen-
nant has observed, " is fabled to have been founded
by Ewin, a Pictish monarch, cotemporary with
Julius Caesar, naming it after himself, Evonium."
Grose has said, " According to vulgar tradition, this
castle was founded by Edwin, a Pictish monarch."
It is probable that the name has assumed this form
by an error of the press. But this good-humoured
writer has undoubtedly fallen into an error, when
he speaks of this as " a vulgar tradition :" for, as far
as we can learn, there is not a vestige of the name
Evonium among the natives. It seems to have no
other authority than that of Boece, who acknow-
ledges that the intention of the monarch, in desig-
nating the fortress which he erected from his own
name, was in fact frustrated by the predominance of
the vulgar designation. Although the so-called
Evonium lies on the bay of Oban, even fancy can
afford no aid from any supposed similarity; for the
term Oban is explained 'the White bay;' whence
the name of the modern town of Oban, at the dis-
tance of 3 miles from the palace. The castle is of
a square form, 87 feet within walls, having round
towers at three of the angles. The average height
of the walls is 66 feet; 9 in thickness. The exter-
nal measurement of the walls amounts to 270 feet.
The circumference of the rock, on which it stands,
is 300. It has its entrance from the sea by a stair-
ease ; but it is supposed that, in former ages, this
was by means of a drawbridge. Only part of the
building is habitable, the rest of it being in ruins.
The masonry is considered as very ancient. At the
distance of about 400 feet from the castle are the
remains of a chapel formerly appropriated to the
religious services of its inmates. This, in length, is
+ " Unless the Destinies fail," or " be defective."
t " In the Wardrobe Account of Edward, for March, 1S99,
there is the following entry of a paymeut to ' Walter the
painter, for a step to the foot of the New Chair, in which the
Stone of Scotland was placed, near the altar, before the shrine
of St. Edward, in Westminster abbey, and to the carpenten
and painters painting the said step; and the gold and colours
to paint it with; and making a case to cover the said chair,
£1 Ills. Id.' [Remarks on the Wardrobe Account, p. xli.] W.il-
smgham t-ays, that the use Edward put it to, was to serve as a
chair for the celebrating priests at Westminster. In the treaty
of peace between Robert Bruce and Edward III, there is a
particular stipulation for the restoration of this Stone. The
Londoners, however, had taken a fancy to it, and excited a
commotion to prevent its removal ; and Robert had no difficulty
to persuade his people to waive the performance of the agree-
ment. Indeed, so deep-rooted has been the belief of the Scols
in the augury attached to it, that manv looked upon the acces-
sion of James to the British throne as 'the fulfilment of the pre-
diction. Even in the present day, when there is so much
anxiety evinced for the recovery of objects held in national
estimation, we do not hear of any application being made to
his majesty for the restoration of the Liu-faile. There is no
doubt but many of those who witnessed the original aggres-
sion, would console themselves with the reflection, that the
lang-shanked Southerone had caught a Tartar."— Cumek'i
Life 0/ H'ullace.
412
DUNSTAFFNAGE.
78 feet; in height, 14; and in breadth, 26. It is
said, that some of the ancient regalia were preserved
here till the 18th century, when, in consequence of
the infirmity of the keeper, they were embezzled by
the servants, who could not withstand the tempta-
tion excited by the silver that adorned them. We
are informed, however, that they left a battle-axe,
9 feet in length, of beautiful workmanship, and em-
bossed with silver. Pennant has given a drawing
of a small ivory figure found here, which he thinks
" was certainly cut in memory of" the celebrated
" chair, and appears to have been an inauguration
sculpture. A crowned monarch is represented sit-
ting in it with a book," rather a scroll, "in one
hand, as if going to take the coronation-oath."
Speaking of the ruined chapel, he says, that it had
once been an elegant building, and has at one end
an enclosure, used as a family cemetery. As, ac-
cording to all the slender remains of our national
history, the fatal chair of royalty was transferred to
Scone, after the union of the Scots and Picts under
the son of Alpin, it might naturally enough be sup-
posed that Dunstaffnage lost much of its former
importance. Being no longer — as it had been under
the Dalriadic kings- — the regal seat, nor, from the
far greater extent of dominion, in a situation adapted
for this pre-eminence, its name scarcely appears in
our annals for some centuries. Indeed, it seems
highly probable, that very soon after it had been
deserted by its royal possessors, it had become a
stronghold of the Norwegians. About the year
843, Kenneth Macalpine transferred the seat of
government from Dunstaffnage to the palace of
Porteviot, in Perthshire. By this time the Nor-
wegians had begun to make inroads on the western
coast of Scotland, and had taken possession of a
considerable part of Ireland ; and we may trace them
in the immediate vicinity of this regal fortress. See
Dunolly. We lose sight of Dunstaffnage for sev-
eral centuries, till it again rises up to view during
the eventful reign of Robert Bruce. It was then
possessed by Alexander of Argyle, father of John,
whom Archdeacon Barbour calls the Lord of Lome,
and who, he says, dwelt in the vicinity of the head
or source of Tay.
The lord of Lome wonnyt thar by,
That was rapitale ennymy
To the king, for his emys 6ak,
Jlum Cumyn ; and ttioucht tor to tak
Wengeance apou cruell maner.
The Bruce, B. ii. 390.
John, called the Red Cumyn, whom Bruce had
slain at Dumfries under the imputation of treachery,
was erne, that is, uncle, to John of Lorn ; Alexander
of Argyle, the father of the latter, having married j
Cumyn's daughter. Sir Walter Scott, having re- i
marked, that according to Lord Hailes, she was his |
aunt, adds that "the genealogy is distinctly given
by Wintoun.
1'he thryd dourhtyr of Red Cwmyn,
Alysawndyr of Argayle syne
Tok, and weddyt til hys wyf :
And on tiyr he gat in-tyl hys lyf
Jlion of Lome, the qiihilk gat
Evvyn of Lome eftyr that."
Cronvkil, B. viii. c. vi. v. 206.
This Alexander adhered to the interests of Baliol.
At the time here referred to, Bruce was defeated in
the battle of Dalree, near Ty ndrum ; but afterwards,
A. 1308, having defeated the army of John of Lorn,
he besieged his father in his fortress of Dunstaffnage.
The king, that stnute wea, stark, and bau.ld,
Till Dunstaftynch ryeht sturdely
A sege set; and besyly
ABsaylit the eastell it to pet —
Schyr Alexander off Arghile, that saw
The king distroy wp, cleue and law,
His land, send treyteris to the king;
And come his man but mar duelling.
And he resawyt him till his pess.
The Biiuce, B. vii. 110.
Bower, in his continuation of Fordun's Chronicon,
says that Alexander rendered the castle to Bruce ;
but that, refusing to do homage to him, he received
from the king a safe-conduct for himself and all who
wished to retire with him, and fled into England,
where he died. This account is more credible than
the other; as the father certainly died in England,
and John his son fled by sea, continuing, as we learn
from Barbour, in his rebellion. It is in relation to
this interesting period of our history that Sir Walter
Scott has introduced the following notice of this
palace, in that beautiful poem the scene of which is
laid in this enchanting district of our country :
" Daughter," she said, " these seas behold,
Round twice an hundred inlands roll'd,
Frn-n Hirt, that hears their northern roar,
To the green Hay's lertile shore.
Or mainland turn, where mativ a tower
Owns thy bold brother's feudal power,
Eacb on its own dark cape reclined.
And listening to its own wild wind,
From where Mingary, sternly placed,
O'erawes the woodland and the waste.
To where Dunstaffnage hears the raging
Of Connal with his rocks engaging.
Lord or the Isles, Cant. i. st. 9.
The lands of Dunolly still belong to the Macdou-
gals, who claim as their ancestor this Alexander oi
Argyle. Their claim, indeed, seems indisputable.
" The islands," Pennant has remarked, " remained
governed by powerful chieftains, the descendants of
Somerled, Thane of Heregaidel, or Argyle, who,
marrying the daughter of Olave, King of Man, left a
divided dominion to his sons Dugal and Reginald;
from the first were descended the Macdougals of
Lorn : from the last the powerful clan of the Mac-
donalds. The lordship of Argyle, with Mull, and
the islands north of it, fell to the share of the first ;
Hay, Cantyre, and the southern isles, were the por-
tion of the last." Nisbet gives the following account
of this family; although he has strangely disguised
the name of the place. " There was," he says, " a
great and old family of this name in Argvleshire,
called M'Oul, M'Dowall, or M'Dugall, Lords of
Lorn, whose title and lands went, by an heiress, to
Stewart, Lord of Lorn, and are now in the family
of Argyle; Colin Campbell, the 1st earl of Argyle,
having married Isabel, heiress of Stewart of Lorn. —
The heir-male of this family is John M'Dougall of
Dunolik, whose castle of Dunolik was the mansion-
house of the said family." The late proprietor in-
formed Dr. Jamieson, that they had lost by far the
greater part of their lands in consequence of their
adherence to the interest of Baliol ; and that on this
ground Dunstaffnage had passed from them to the
family of Argyle, who claimed this as their share of
the spoil. In conformity with this account, it has
been said; " When the wars between the Bruce and
Baliol factions again broke out in the reign of David
II., the lords of Lorn were again found on the losing
side, owing to their hereditary enmity to the house
of Bruce. Accordingly, upon the issue of that con-
test, they were deprived by David II. and his suc-
cessor of by far the greater part of their extensive
territories, which were conferred upon Stewart,
called the Knight of Lorn. The house of Macdou-
gal continued to survive the loss of power, and
affords a very rare, if not an unique, instance of a
family of such unlimited power, and so distinguished
during the middle ages, surviving the decay of their
grandeur, and flourishing in a private station."
[' Lord of the Isles,' Note.] — A charter of Robert
I. is still extant, granting to Arthur Campbell,
fourth son of the brave Sir Colin Campbell of Loch-
ow, "the constabulary of Dunstaffnage, and the
maines thereof, whilk Alexander Argyle had in his
hands." David II. confirms a charter granted by
his father to William de Yetere Pont (Weapont),
DUN
413
DUN
dated at Dunstaffynch in the 4th year of his reign.
"1 find," says Pennant, "about the year 1455, this
to have been a residence of the Lords of the Isles ;
for here James, last earl of Douglas, after his defeat
in Angus, fled to Donald, the Regulus of the time,
and prevailed on him to take arms, and carry on a
plundering war against his monarch James the Se-
cond." He refers to plume of Godscroft as his
authority; but all that Godscroft says is: "The
Eaiie himself by flight got him to Dunstaffage,
where finding Donald Earle of Rosse, and Lord of
the Isles, he incited him to make war against the
king in his favours, and after he had engaged him
therein, he withdrew himselfe again into England."
This, however, does not amount to a proof that
Dunstaffnage was then occupied as a palace by these
usurping reguli. Buchanan merely says, that Earl
James met with Donald, the tyrant of the isles, and
Earl of Ross, at Dunstaffnage ; — "ad Stephanodunum
convenit" From this phraseology we can only infer
that this was the appointed place of meeting: and it
was most probably selected as the most convenient
place for both; the Earl of Douglas, having no mari-
time accommodation, coming to that point which
Donald could easily reach by sea. We cannot, in-
deed, suppose that this had become " a residence of
the Lords of the Isles," without assuming it as a
fact, that that branch of the noble family of Argyle,
to which this fortress had been appropriated by
Robert I., had been expelled from it.
DUNSYRE, a parish in the upper ward of Lan-
arkshire, bounded by Dolphinton and Walston on the
south-east and south ; Linton on the east and north ;
AVest Calder on the north ; and Carnwath on the
west. It is a high lying parish, the most of it being
more than 700 feet above the sea level, and contains
a steep and precipitous hill about 1,250 in height,
from which the parish is understood to have received
its name. It extends to nearly 5 miles in length,
and the same in breadth, and contains 11,071 imperial
acres. The climate is rather damp and ungenial, and
rheumatism prevails amongst the inhabitants to a
greater extent than is usual elsewhere. Springs are
abundant in the parish, and it is watered to a consi-
derable extent by the streamlet of Medwin, which
takes its rise in its north-east corner, near the foot
of the hill, called Craigangus, and which affords ex-
cellent trout fishing. The soil of the parish is gen-
erally of a sandy nature, or a mixture of sand and
clay, but from its altitude it is not blessed with great
fertility. A large section of it is laid out in sheep
pasture. It has been supposed that coal existed in
the confines ; but though search has been made, the
presence of this valuable mineral has not yet been
ascertained, and the inhabitants are required to bring
their supplies from a distance of 12 miles. Peat,
however, is extensively cut from the extensive
mosses in the parish. There is little wood, and little
ornament, possibly from the non-residence of the
proprietors, and some portions of the district have
an exceedingly wild and dreary appearance. The
village of Dunsyre does not contain a population
amounting to more than 50 souls, who are princi-
pally tradesmen, necessary to and supported by the
agriculturist. The nearest market-towns are Carn-
wath and Biggar, — the former 6, and the latter 8
miles distant from the village. The route by which
the army of Agricola reached the Roman camp at
Cleghorn can be traced through the parish, and se-
veral cairns occur along the line, in some of which
urns have been found. Dunsyre comprised a portion
of the lands which were exchanged by the ambitious
Earl of Bothwell with the Earl of Angus, for the
lands and castle of Hermitage in Liddesdale. It was
sold, however, bv James, Marquis of Douglas, to Sir
George Lockhart, the President of the Court of Ses-
sion, in the hands of whose successors almost the en-
tire parish still remains. In the troubled times of
the persecution, Dunsyre often afforded a retreat to
the Covenanters, and the last sermon preached by the
amiable Donald Cargill was upon Dunsyre common
in 1669. He was seized shortly thereafter by Irvine
of Bonshaw, taken to Edinburgh, hanged in the
Grass-market, and his head struck off and fixed upon
the port of the Netherbow. William Veitch, one of
the most celebrated of the preachers of the Covenant,
was atone time tenant of AVesthills in the parish, from
which he was compelled to flee, after the battle of
Pentlands, in 1667. Assessed property, in 1815,
.£2,006. Population, in 1801, 290; in 1831,335.
Houses, in 1831, 57 This parish is in the presby-
tery of Biggar, and synod of Lothian and T weeddale.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend £156 15s. 9d. ; glebe
£2S. Hamilton of Wishaw says — " The teinds ot
this parish were anciently a part of the patrimonie of
the abbacie of Kelsoe ; but in respect its but a small
parish, they are wholly possessed by the incumbent."
— Salary of parochial schoolmaster £25 3s. 4d. , with
£5 school-fees.
DUXTOCHER, a quoad sacra parish, divided
from Old Kilpatrick in Dumbartonshire, in 1836, by
authority of the General Assemblv. Population, in
1836, 3,336, whereof 1,604 belonged to the Estab-
lishment, and 1,717 to other denominations, chiefly
that of the United Secession. Church built in 1836,
at a cost of £1,600; sittings 776. Stipend of
minister £114 An original Burgher congregation
was established at Faifley about 58 years ago. Sti-
pend £89, with house, garden, and glebe. Sittings
in the church 500. — A United Secession congrega-
tion was established at Duntocher about 18 years
ago. Church built in 1S24, at an expense of £1,000;
sittings 592. Stipend £150. See Old Kilpatrick.
DUNTROON CASTLE, a fine old edifice at
the entrance of the Crinan canal, to the south of
Craignish. Its stiucture is very imposing, over-
hanging the sea, and backed by knolls, rocks, and
wood. It is now the property of Mr. Malcolm. In
former times it belonged to a branch of the Camp-
bells. Colonel Stewart of Garth, in his most in-
teresting work on the Highland regiments, states
that it was an ancient compact, and has been " a
uniform practice in the families of the Campbells of
Melfort, Dunstaffnage, and Duntroon, that when the
head of either family died, the chief mourners should
be the two other lairds, one of whom supported the
head to the grave, while the other walked before the
corse. The first progenitors of these families were
three sons of the family of Argyle, who took this
method of preserving the friendship and securing the
support of their posterity to one another."*
DUNVEGAN, a bay and headland in the parish
of Kilmuir, on the "west coast of the isle of Skye,
Near it is a small village of the same name, with a
post-office. The house of Dunvegan, the principal
seat of Macleod, the chief of the ancient and power-
ful clan of that name, is partly old and partly mo-
* A similar custom is noticed by the author of ( Reginald
Dalton,' as occurring in the 6ister kingdom. It is ascribed to
the two English families of Datton and Ward, whose founder*
were brottiers in arms during the wars of John of Gaunt in
Spain. "It was," he remarks, " by such ties as these, that, in
many instances, the noble benevolence of the old English gen-
try among themselves was sustained and nourished, it was the
influence of such remembrances that olten tempered the asperi-
ties of political conflict, and solteued and retined the character
even of civil war itself. Thus, for example, the heads of these
very races had happened to embrace different sides in the time
of Charles the First. Tbpy fought against each other at Edge-
hill ; and yet when Sir Marmaduke Dalton was slain before
Newark castle, Colonel Ward asked, and obtained, permission
to accompany the corse to Lancashire, and, stern republican
though he was, rendered the last honour to the young Cava-
lier."
DUN
414
DUN
dern. It forms two sides of a small square; on the
third side is the skeleton of a castle of unknown an-
tiquity, supposed to have been a Norwegian fortress
when the Danes were masters of these islands. " It
is so nearly entire," says Dr. Johnson — who was en-
tertained here by Lady Macleod with ' all the arts of
Southern elegance' — "that it might have easily been
made habitable, were there not an ominous tradition
in the family that the owner shall not long outlive
the reparation. The grandfather of the present laird,
in defiance of the prediction, began the work, but
desisted in a little time, and applied his money to
worse uses. Here we saw some traces of former
manners, and heard some standing traditions. In the
house is kept an ox's horn, hollowed so as to hold
perhaps two quarts, which the heir of Macleod was
expected to swallow at one draught, as a test of his
manhood, before he was permitted to bear arms, or
could claim a seat among the men. It is held, that
the return of the laird to Dunvegan, after any consi-
derable absence, produces a plentiful capture of her-
rings ; and that, if any woman crosses the water to
the opposite island, the herrings will desert the coast.
Boetius tells the same of some other place. This
tradition is not uniform. Some hold, that no woman
may pass, and others, that none may pass but a
Macleod."
DUNWAR. See Eaglesham.
DUNYCOICH. See Inverary.
DUPLIN, or Dupplin, a parish in Perthshire,
united in 1G18 to that of Aberdalgie : see Aberdal-
gie. This was the scene of an engagement between
Edward Baliol and the Earl of Marr, on the 12th, or
as some say the 18th, of August, 1332. Baliol hav-
ing landed near Kinghom, and routed the troops un-
der the Earl of Fife who opposed his landing, marched
northward, and encamped on the Millar's acre at
Forte viot. The Earl of Marr heard at Perth,
That all thare fays rumtnyn ware
To Fnrtewyot, and tliaini thare
Had lwgyd in a lytil plas,
Tile Myinarys Akre it callyd was;
And men sayis. bath hors and man
In that akyre war lwgyd than.
Wtntoun, B. viii. c. 2G, v. 67.
The Earl of Marr was encamped, with a numerous
ni'my, on a rising ground on the opposite side of the
river Earn, near to Duplin. The contemptible ap-
pearance of Ballot's forces, confined within such nar-
row hounds, proved a snare to the royal army, who
laughed at the idea of danger from a mere handful
of enemies. Total carelessness was the natural con-
sequence ; and ere day dawned, the English had
crossed the river, and attacking an army that had
abandoned itself to intemperance, easily put it to a
complete route. Some monuments of antiquity ap-
pear in the neighbourhood ; hut whether they have
been erected as memorials of this disastrous battle,
or claim an earlier era, is uncertain. There is a stone
cross, quite entire, a good way up the acclivity, on
the opposite hank of the Earn, almost straight
north from the ford by which Baliol's army passed
the river; and another on the south of Forteviot,
upon a rising ground, called Dronachy, lying broken
over at the pedestal, on which are many emblemati-
cal figures. About half-a-mile north from the first
of these, a large tumulus or cairn was opened, and
in it were found some coffins formed of rough flat
stones, containing many fragments of bones. About
50 years ago a stone was found near the site of the
palace, having two lambs carved on it. This is
now in the possession of Lord Ruthven.
DURINISH. See Duirnish
DURISDEER,* a parish in the north of Nithsdale,
» The name is written, in ancient documents, Dorisdere and
Dorisdeir; and seems derived from the situation oi an uucieut
Dumfries-shire. It is bounded on the north-west by
Sanquhar ; on the north-east and east by Lanark-
shire; on the south-east by Morton; and on the
south and west by Penpont. It approaches the form
of a parallelogram, but with many sin tiosi ties in the
outline; and stretches from south-west to north-
east. It measures diagonally, from the angle formed
by the confluence of the Carron and the Nith on the
south, to an angle on Lowther-hill on the north, 8|
miles ; in length, from the Mar burn opposite Drum-
lanrig castle to the north-east boundary at the source
of the Carron, 7-1 miles ; and in extreme breadth,
from Slunkford on the Nith to an angle 1 J mile
south-east of the parish-church, 5j miles. Its area
is about 28J square miles. Its eastern section is part
of the high mountain range which walls in Dumfries-
shire. In the north it is bleak, inhospitable, and
Highland in its dress. Hills and mountains press so
tumultuously upon the glens, that a tourist, in fol-
lowing a winding path, is puzzled to conceive how
an opening among the acelivitous heights which seem
to forbid his progress can exist. The central, south-
ern, and south-eastern sections are comparatively
low in surface, and beauteous in exquisite diversity.
Here the Nith diagonally intersects the parish, over
a distance, including sinuosities, of 8 or 9 miles ; and,
all the way along, it luxuriates in a richness of scen-
ery unsurpassed by the opulence of any merely pic-
turesque landscape. From the narrow pass of shelv-
ing and almost precipitous banks, clad with brush-
wood and plantation, and foiled by rock and scaur, to
the broad expanse or plain, cultivated like a garden,
and walled round with a mountain-barrier, the basin
of the river exhibits nearly every variety of scenery,
and astonishes the tourist by the suddenness and the
charming character of its transitions. Near the
southern boundary, where the vale is widest, stands
the gorgeous ducal pile of Drumlanrig, [see Drum-
lanrig Castle,] surrounded with the fairy-land of
its demesne. From north to south other parts of the
parish, even its least cheerful and most rugged, are
variegated, and occasionally tinged with beauty, by
the courses of Carron water, and Kirk, Enterkin,
and Mar burns. The soil in the low grounds is in
general deep, loamy, and fertile. The hills contain
the same minerals as the neighbouring mines of Wan-
lockhead. North of the church, in the Wallpath,
are vestiges of a Roman camp. Along the Wallpath,
the great Roman road through Juthsdale, [see Dum-
fries-shire,] passed on its way to join in Lanark-
shire the road through Annandale. The parish is
traversed along the vale of the Nith, by the turnpike
from Dumfries to Glasgow, and along the vale of the
Carron by that to Edinburgh : the two roads fork-
ing off from a hitherto common line immediately
after entering the parish at Carron-bridge. The vil-
lage of Durisdeer, situated on the upland part of the
parish, is a small sequestered hamlet. Population of
the parish, in 1801, 1,148; in 1831, 1,488. Houses
248. Assessed property, in 1815, ±'10,386— Duris-
deer is in the presbytery of Penpont, and synod of
Dumfries. Patron, the Duke of Buccleuch. Stipend
.£220 16s. 8d. ; glebe £25. The church was built m
1 720. Sittings 350. Durisdeer was originally a rec-
tory, belonging to the see of Glasgow, and served by a
vicar; and, in the 14th century, was constituted a pre-
bend of Glasgow. There were anciently two chapels ;
vestiges of which are still apparent. One was si-
tuated on the Carron, and still gives the name Chapel
to the farm on which it stood. In the present par-
castle at the entrance of a remarkable mountain-pass, called
the Wallpath, between Nithsdale and Clydesdale. Drws in
British, and Dorus in Irish, mean 'a passage;' and dmr, in both
languages, signifies ' oakwond'— and here appears to allude to
the tunings of oak with which the Wallpath most probably
was adorned.
DURNESS.
415
ish-church is a grand mausoleum of the Drumlanng
Douglasses. An aisle, surmounting the sepulchral
vault, has a marhle monument of multiform sculp-
ture, and imposing appearance, but in a style offen-
sive to modern taste, commemorative of James, se-
cond Duke of Queensberrv, and his Duchess. On
the sculptured wall, the ducal pair are represented as
lying on a couch, dressed in state. The Duchess is
stretched in the attitude of death, her hands folded
over her breast. The Duke appears behind her,
half raised on his elbow, wearing an enormous wig,
and contemplating the countenance of bis lady. The
tout-ensemble of the sculpture, however, is anything
but lugubrious ; and, but for the affecting suggestion
of the mutability and vanity of all human grandeur,
presents such an array of the trappings and grotesque
adornings of antique courtly apparel, as would be ir-
resistibly ludicrous. There are in Durisdeer 5
schools, 2 of them parochial. The salaries of the
parish schoolmasters amount to £51 6s. 6|d., with
£23 9s. other emoluments Durrisdeer, according
to one version of the old ballad, was the scene of
Johnie o' Breadislee's ' woeful hunting'
Johnie buskt up his gude bend bow,
His arrows ane by aite;
Aod he has gane to Durrisdeer
To hunt the duu deer down.
The " silly auld carle' tells the seven Foresters of
Hislington what he has seen ' atween the water and
the brae,' and a conflict, in which Johnie slays all
the seven, but is mortally wounded himself, issues:
Now Johnie's gude bend bow is broke,
And his gude graie dogs are slain ;
And his body lies dead in Durris deer,
And his hunting it is dune.
See article Braid.
DURNESS,* a parish in the county of Sutherland,
forming the north-western point of Scotland. It
comprehends the cultivated lands on the eastern side
of Loch Eriboll, commonly called Westmoine ; with
the tract denominated Strathmore, and intersected
by the river Hope ; Durness Proper, or the penin-
sular tract stretching between Loch Eriboll and
Durness bay and kyle ; and the Parf district, which
comprehends that portion of the parish lying between
the Atlantic and the kyle of Durness, and extend-
ing south to the Ashir district of Edderachybs. Its
length from east to west is about 25 miles ; its aver-
age breadth nearly 12 miles; and its superficial area,
including the numerous lochs or arms of the sea which
deeply indent its coasts, 300 square miles. On the
east its boundaries are coterminous with the parish
of Tongue, on the south, with those of Eddera-
chybs. The scenery of this parish is mostly wild and
mountainous. It is nearly "destitute of wood, and
considerable tracts are occupied by bleak mosses.
Towards the shore, however, where the peninsula of
Durness terminates in Farout-head, there is a series
of beautiful fields, and rich green pasture. On the
* " Various etymologies are assigned for the name of this
p irish. Among others, it is said that Dur is a contraction of
Durrin, [or Dorraiii,] or novrin, which signifies, in Gaelic,
'a Storm;' so that Durness would seem to mean 'the Ness or
Promontory of storms,*— an appellation to which the neigh-
bouring coast is not unentitled. But whatever may be the
meaiiingof the name, it is well-known, from tradition, that the
application of it to this parish took place, not from the nature
of the ground, hut in consequence .if the Bishop of Caithness
disponing of it to Morrison— Ay MacHormaid, as they call
him— a Lewis man, and a native of a place called Diurness
there, ou occasion of his being married to Ins natural daughter,
or— as such were usually termed in those days— his sister.'
This Ay Morrison gaye it its? present name, to commemorate
the place of his own nativity. Whatever its former name
might have been, it surely has been asheal, or summer-d .veil-
ing of old. belonging to the bishopric of Caithness." [old
Statistical Account. ]— In the New Statistical Account, it is
suggested that the name of this district may be derived from
Dunn, the principal township in the pari,h, and limit, 'a
Kreen patch or grazing,'— thus signifying un oasis in a desert.
sides of the hills, too, upon spots where shealings
have been occasionally erected to shelter the shep-
herds in summer and harvest when feeding their
flocks at a distance from their ordinary dwellings,
the sward is richly variegated with clover, daisies,
and other valuable grasses and wild flowers. Along
the shore a tract of flat land extends, in some places,
to the very verge of the ocean ; in others there is a
considerable extent of bare sands ; at the head-lands
piles of rocks tower to a vast height. The shores
themselves are almost everywhere rocky and des-
titute of vegetation. The tides rush in with great
rapidity and violence upon this coast, especially at
Cape Wrath, where their violence is increased by
means of a shoal, running out north by east from the
extremity of the cape for 5 or 6 miles, and covered
by a depth of water measuring from 16 to 24 fa-
thoms: see article Cape Wejth. About a mile
from the coast is the Staigs, a rock the top of which
is always above water, but which is nevertheless
formidable to ships approaching the cape by night ;
but a still more dangerous rock, the top of which
can be seen only in neap-tides, is said to lie 9 miles
due north from the cape. Loch Eriboll forms a
spacious harbour, in which even the smallest sloop
enjoys perfect safety. It penetrates the country in
a south-west direction, nearly 11 miles from the
Whiten-head, which lies on the left hand of the
entrance, and whose white and elevated rocks mar-
iners distinguish at a distance, even in the night.
On the west, or right hand of the entrance, is Ris-
pond, a small dry harbour used by the tacksmen of
the fishings and the kelp shores : see article Eriboll.
To the west of Farout-head is Durness bay, a large
shallow bay of rough sea, too open to afford shelter
for vessels. Its upper extremity is prolonged into a
narrow kyle running inland in a south-west direction
up Strathdinard. Between Durness bay and Cape
Wrath the ehffsf are very magnificent In the cave
of Smo, about 2 miles east of the parish-church,
sounds are distinctly repeated by a remarkable echo.
This cave is, indeed, in many respects an object
worthy of notice. It is, in some places, 100 feet
wide, and from 20 to 60 feet in height.J A short
way within its mouth there is a perforation in the
arch, through which a stream of water descends,
and is received into a subterraneous lake extending
to a length not ascertained. Tradition says, that
the only person who ever had courage to attempt to
explore it, was one Donald, Master of Reay, but that
the extinction of the lights, by foul air, obliged him
to return before he could advance to the extremity
of the lake or the boundary of the cave. Macculloch
notices a cave near the Whiten-head which, he says,
" exceeds in beauty, splendour, and subbmity of
effect, all the caves of Scotland except perhaps that
of Papa Stour." — The principal mountains in this
alpine territory are Benhope in Strathmore : see article
Benhope; Ben-Spionnadh, which has an elevation
of 2,566 feet ; Cranstachie in Durness Proper ; and
Fairbheinn and Bendearg in the Parf district. The
principal lake is Loch Hope : which see. This tract
of country, though extremely interesting to the geo-
logist, is not known to afford any uncommon min-
erals. There are numerous small lochs. Loch-Bor-
ley in Durness Proper, affords, in great abundance, a
species of char called ' Red Bellies,' and, in Gaelic,
Tarragan. They are caught only in October, when
they repair to the shallow water to deposit their spawn.
From Loch Dinard flows a stream of the same name,
which, after a north-east course of about 10 miles,
flows into the kyle of Durness. The Hone, flow-
t Figured in Daniell's ■ Coast Views.
t Some accounts of this cave substitute yards lor feet in these
admeasurements.
DUR
416
DUT
ing through Strathraore, is a fine stream. See article
Loch Hope The whole of this extensive par-
ish, with the exception of about 1,000 acres, has
been converted into sheep-walks. The wages of
day-labourers, at the close of last century, were
commonly from 6d. to 7^d. a-day, they now receive
Is. 6d. per day. The usual half-yearly wages of
men-servants were from 26s. to .£1 16s.; and of
women-servants, from 10s. to 15s., in 1798; the
former now receive £6 per annum, with a consider-
able supply of meal and potatoes ; the latter receive
£3 per annum with board. The whole rent of the
lands, kelp-shores, and fishings, was about £450, in
1796 ; in the New Statistical Account of 1834, the
average raw produce is estimated at £8,000. The
assessed property, in 1815, was £1,706. Population,
in 1801, 1,208; in 1831, 1,153. Houses, in 1831,
197. Three-fourths of the population are scattered
along the northern coast, between the kyle of Dur-
ness and the mouth of Loch Eriboll. Of the remain-
ing fourth, the greater part reside in small hamlets
along both shores of Loch Eriboll. — The parish of
Durness is in the presbytery of Tongue, and synod of
Sutherland and Caithness. Patron, the Crown
This, with the adjoining parishes of Tongue and Ed-
derachylis, comprehending a tract of country 35 miles
in length and from 15 to 25 in breadth, were for-
merly united in one parish under the common name of
Durness. But, as one clergyman was not equal to
the task of instructing the inhabitants of so exten-
sive a district, George, Lord Reay, in 1721, applied
to the General Assembly for aid towards the reli-
gious instruction of the inhabitants of this country.
The Assembly agreed that a collection for this purpose
should be made through all Scotland, and a contri-
bution of £1,500 sterling was thus obtained. The
original parish of Durness was, in consequence,
divided into the three parishes of Durness, Tongue,
and Edderachylis, in 1724; and stipends were as-
signed for the ministers of these parishes, in certain
proportions, out of the teinds of Lord Reay's estate,
and the interest of the money contributed. Stipend
£158 6s. 8d.; glebe £20. The old parish-church
was built in 1619, and enlarged in 1692. It was
stated to the parliamentary commissioners, in 1836,
that it was on the eve of being rebuilt. — There is a
mission-station at Camisendun or Cambusindoun,
which is 11 miles distant from the parish-church. —
Schoolmaster's salary £25 15s. — The celebrated
Gaelic bard, Robert Donn, or Mackay, was a native
of this parish.
DUROR, a quoad sacra parish disjoined from Ap-
,pin in 1827. It extends along Loch Linnhe and
Loch Leven, and is from 28 to 30 miles in length,
foy from 5 to 6 in breadth. In 1836 the population
was estimated at 1,600, of whom about one-half be-
longed to the Establishment. Church built by the
parliamentary commissioners in 1826, and repaired in
1834.; sittings 323. Stipend £120, with manse and
glebe. There are an Episcopalian, and a Roman
Catholic congregation, in this parish. See Lismore
and Appik.
DURRIS, a parish in Kincardineshire; bounded
on the north by the river Dee, which divides it from
Drumoak in Aberdeenshire ; on the east by Mary-
culter and Feteresso parishes ; on the south by the
parish of Glenbervie ; and on the west by the par-
ishes of Strachan and Banchory-Ternan. It extends
about 8 miles in length, and 5£ in breadth, contain-
ing 16,000 acres. Houses 211. Assessed property,
in 1815, £2,290. Population, in 1801, 605; in 1831,
1,035. The ground of this parish rises from the
south bank of the Dee, till, in its southern extrem-
ity, it terminates in a ridge of the Grampian moun-
tains. There are thus extensive haughs or tracts of
level land near the river, while, southwards, the
mountains rise to an elevation of upwards of 1,000
feet above the level of the sea. Cairn-monearn is
the highest of these, being elevated about 1,200 feet
above sea-level. Mindernal, Mount Gower, and
Craigbeg, are nearly of the same height. On the
top of Mount Gower is a mineral spring, similar to
one of the Harrogate waters. Several rivulets in-
tersect the parish, of which the Sheeoch burn is the
chief. It rises in the south-western extremity be-
yond Shillofad, and runs south-eastwards, often with
a great body of water, and with headlong rapidity,
for about 12 miles, till it falls into the Dee at Dur-
ris church. There are several large plantations of
larch and Scots fir, — both of which were introduced
here by Lord Peterborough. A great part of the
parish has been enclosed, and many improvements in
agriculture have been effected. There is extensive
pasture-land, some of which, however, might be
rendered arable. Gross annual produce valued at
about £14,000. Farm-produce is sold at Stone-
haven and Aberdeen, as there is neither market-
town nor village in this parish. Three annual fairs
for cattle are held however. On a hill named Castle
hill there is the appearance of an ancient fortification
having a regular fosse and glacis. There is an an-
cient mansion connected by a colonnade with Durris
house, the principal modern building in the parish —
Durris is in the presbytery and synod of Aberdeen.
Patron, Mactier of Durris. Stipend £158 6s. 7d. ;
glebe £15. Schoolmaster's salary £29, with £23
10s. fees, and other emoluments. Besides the pa-
rochial school, attended by 33 pupils, there was, in
1834, a sessional school attended by 36 pupils. Mas-
ter's salary £12, with about £21 of fees.
DUTHIL and ROTHIEMURCHUS, two par-
ishes, now quoad civilia united, the former situated
in Morayshire, and the latter in Inverness-shirc.
The united parish is bounded on the north-west by
Moy and Dalrossie; on the east by Inverallan and
Abernethy ; on the south by the Cairngorm moun-
tain ; and on the west by Alvie. The river Spey
runs between the two parishes, and the river Dulnan
intersects Duthil for upwards of 13 miles, and falls
into the Spey. The parish of Rothiemurehus lies
betwixt the Cairngorm mountain and the Spey, a
short way further up the river than the most part of
Duthil. Together, they extend in length about 20
miles, and nearly 17 in breadth. Assessed propertv,
in 1815, £60. Houses 389. Population, in 1801,
1,578; in 1831, 1,895; and exclusive of Rothie-
murehus, 1,309. Their general appearance is hilly,
with fir, birch, and alder, on the skirts of the hills.
Higher up the ground becomes rocky, and covered
with heath, but in many parts affording good pas-
turage. The soil on the banks of the Spey and the
Dulnan is fertile, but liable to be overflowed. The
rest of the soil in this district is gravelly and thin.
There are two small lakes in Rothiemurehus : one
of them. Lochaneilan, has an island and a ruinous
castle noted for a remarkable echo. The wastes in
this parish abound with game of all kinds. Numer-
ous sheep and black cattle are reared. The military
road from Dalnacardoch to Inverness passes through
the parish. On this road is the stage-inn of Avie-
more, near the head of Strathspey, which commands
a fine view of the great fir woods of Rothiemurehus,
supposed to cover from 14 to 16 square miles. Op-
posite to the inn is Cairncorm — which see — and
about a mile to the north is the beautiful and bold
projecting rock of Craigellachie, the 'rock of alarm.'
" From its swelling base, and rifted precipices, the
birch trees wave in graceful cluster;, their bright
and lively green forming a strong contrast in the
foreground, to the sombre melancholy hue of the
DYC
417
DYK
pine forests, which, in the distance, stretch up the
sides of the Cairngorm.". — [Guide to the Highlands.]
Craigellachie is the hill of rendezvous to the Grants.
' Stand fast, Craigellachie !' is the slogan or war-
cry of that clan, — the occupants of this strath, — the
name of whom prevails here to the exclusion of al-
most every other, as, perhaps, maybe recollected from
Sir Alexander Boswell's lively verses : —
■* Come the Grants of Tnll"cligorum,
Wi' their pipers gaun before 'em,
Proud the mothers are that bore 'em.
Feedle.fa-fum !
" Next the Grants of Rothiemurchus,
Every man his sword and dnrk has,
Every man. as proud's a Turk is.
Feedle.deedie-dum !"
This truly Highland district altogether is exceed-
ingly interesting and romantic. The name of Duthil
signifies ' the glen of heroes,' and also ' the excel-
lent valley,' because the Kirktown commands the
prospect of a valley upwards of 1,000 acres in ex-
tent. Three miles to the east of Duthil manse
stands the picturesque ruin of the old tower of
Muckerath, a seat of the Grants of Rothiemurchus,
and which was erected in 1598 by Patrick Grant, a
son of John, surnamed ' The Simple.' - The church
of Duthil is one of the few Roman Catholic edifices
which escaped the relentless destructive energies of
the Reformers This district is in the presbytery of
Abemethy, and synod of Moray ; but Rothiemurchus
is now a quoad sacra parish, with a government
church. Stipend of Duthil parish £229 ]7s. ; with
a glebe valued at £5 3s. 4d. Unappropriated teinds
.£122 6s. Patron, the Earl of Seafield. Church
built in 1S27; sittings 700. Being the property of
the sole heritor of the parish, the sittings are free
to all the parishioners. Schoolmaster's salary £25
13s. 2d., with fees, &c. averaging £7 10s. There
are 3 private schools in this parish. Stipend of Ro-
thiemurchus quoad sacra parish £120, with glebe
valued at £5. Patron, the Crown. Schoolmaster's
salary, with fees, &c, about £30. There are three
private schools in the parish of Duthil. See Ro-
thiemurchus.
DYCE, a parish in Aberdeenshire, lying along the
side of the river Don, which separates it from Fintry
on the north. It is bounded by Newhills on the
east; Skene on the south; and Kinellaw on the west.
Its greatest length is 6 miles, and greatest breadth
3 miles. A ridge of hills called Tyrebeggar runs
directly through the parish from north to south.
The soil near the Don is deep and rich, producing
fine crops. Agriculture is here in an advanced state;
nearly 3,000 acres are under cultivation. In the
hilly ground of Tyrebeggar, however, upwards of
1,000 acres are covered with heath or other under-
wood. There are several plantations of larch and
Scots fir in the parish. Extent of the parish 4,667
acres. Houses 104. Assessed property, in 1815,
£1,315. Population, in 1801, 347; in 1831, 620;
in 1839, 416. The cause of the decrease in popula-
tion is stated by the minister to have arisen partly
from some proprietors having dispossessed their cot-
tagers, and thrown their possessions into larger
farms, — and partly to the stoppage of (marries, in
which sometimes nearly 100 men were employed.
These quarries are of granite. They have been
worked since the middle of last century ; and dressed
stones, for paving the streets and for building, have
been sent hence in great quantities to London. On
the top of one of the hills there is a Druidical temple,
consisting of 10 rough stones planted in a circular
form. There are also several cairns on the hills.
There is no town or village in the parish. It is in-
tersected by the Aberdeen and Inverury canal
This parish is in the presbytery and synod of Aber-
I.
deen. Patron, Gordon Skene of Dyce. Stipend
£150 lis. 2d. ; glebe £7 10s. The church is situ-
ated on a rocky promontory, formed by a winding of
the Don, and commands a fine view of the river's
course through the valley for 20 miles. Schoolmas-
ter's salary £26 per annum, with £14 fees.
DYE (The), a rivulet in the parish of Strichan,
Aberdeenshire, tributary to the Dee.
DYE (The), a small stream in Berwickshire,
which, descending from the Lammermoor range,
flows past the village of Longformacus, and falls into
the Whitadder.
DYKE and MOY, two parishes in the county of
Elgin, except part of Moy, which is in the shire of
Nairn. They were united in 1618. The united
parish is of an irregular, four-cornered figure, run-
ning up the Moray frith, 6 miles along the shore,
and stretching from the coast, southwards, nearly
the same length. It is bounded on the north by the
Moray frith; on the east by the river Findhorn, and
the loch at its mouth; (but the boundaries being very
irregular, a few farms are situated on the east side of
the Findhorn;) on the south by the parishes of Ard-
clach and Edenkillie ; and on the west by Auldearn
palish. A great proportion of this district is fertile
in soil, and highly cultivated. There are some fine
arable fields of black and brown loam, and the surface
is agreeably diversified with gentle slopes and flats, and
ornamented with gardens and plantations, villas and
mansions. Along the coast, however, is that ex-
tensive sandy desert called the Culbin or Mavistone
sand-hills, which stretches through the parishes of
Auldearn, Dyke, and Kinloss, on both sides, and
round the mouth of the river Findhorn. Boethius
represents these as produced by the same inundation
of the sea which swept away the princely estate of
Earl Godwin in Kent in 1100, leaving the celebrated
or rather infamous Godwin sands in its room. Since
the original devastation, the sea appears to have been
encroaching considerably on this coast, or at least
the evil has been extended by the blowing of the
sand-hills. These were originally piled up in three
great hills below Mavistone, in Auldearn parish ; and
from this great reservoir the sand has been drifted
towards the north-east in such enormous quantities,
that the barony of Culbin — one of the most valuable
estates in Moray, distinguished, indeed, as ' the gran-
ary of Moray ' — was literally and entirely buried
under it about a century and a half ago. The lands
were covered to the depth of several feet, between
the j'ears 1670 and 1695, and the estate so much
destroyed, that the proprietor petitioned parliament
to be exempted from paying the ordinary public dues.
The estate still remains completely covered up,
the only traces of its former existence being the oc
casional appearance of the ruins of houses, and
portions of the soil still retaining seeds having the
power of vegetating, which are occasionally dug up.*
The removal of the sand to Culbin is said to have
been accelerated by the country people pulling up
bent from the grounds in the parishes of Dyke and
Auldearn,, and the practice was prohibited, in conse-
quence, by act of parliament. The entrance of the
Findhorn into the sea has been removed from the
x In the churchyard of Dyke is an old tomb-stone belonging
to the family tlin. curiously disinherited ; and, from an inacrip-
linn, it appears that the provident couple who first slept under
it had it prepared during their lifetime. On the upper part of
ihe stone are the initials, V. K- B. I. ; below, two armorial
coats, and the date, 1613: after which runs the following le-
gend:—
VALTIR KINNAIRD, ELIZABETH INNES,
The builders of this bed of stnne,
Are laird and ladie of Cnwbine ;
Quhilk tua and theirs, quhaue braithe is gane,
Vleis Gud, vil sk'ip this bed vithiu.
2 D
413
DYSART.
westward, nearly 2 miles to its present situation,
and on the spot where stood the ancient town and
harbour of Findhorn, nothing now appears but sand
and benty grass, scarcely affording meagre pasturage
to a few sheep. Besides indications of an ancient
forest visible in the bay between Findhorn and
Burgh-head, there are other traces of considerable
changes on the whole sea-coast in this vicinity
The heath of Hardmoor, which adjoins the now
sterile district of Culbin, is celebrated as the place
in which Macbeth was met by the weird sisters,
while he journeyed with Banquo from the western
islands, to meet King Duncan at the castle of For-
res. It is a bleak and barren enough heath, and its
' blasted ' aspect well befits the imaginary scene of
such a supernatural meeting. No one can pass this
spot without having his mind full of the horrors of
the tragedy. The imagination of thousands has
been rivetted on this locality, and the poet, out of a
few meagre and uncertain traditions, has invested
what was, perhaps, after all, but a common and vul-
gar assassination, with the intense interest of a great
moral catastrophe Immense and thriving plantations
of oak, pine, larch, elm, beach, &c, which cover the
whole country side, and amount, it is said, to about
15,000,000 of trees, have, of late years, grown up
with the ancient pine forest in the vicinity of the
noble castle of Darnaway in this parish : see Dar-
naway There are three villages in this parish; —
Dyke, Broom of Moy, and Kintesk. Population of
the united parish, in 1801, 1,492; in 1831, 1,451.
Houses 306. Assessed property, in 1815, £9,178.
There are one or two small lakes in the parish.
The Findhorn, which flows into Findhorn loch, to
the north of Moy-kouse, is the principal river, and
is of considerable value for its salmon-fishings
The united parish of Dyke and Moy is in the synod
of Moray, and presbytery of Forres. Patrons, the
Crown, and Grant of Moy. Stipend £244 lis. 8d.,
with glebe valued at £'16 13s. 4d. Schoolmaster's
salary .£34 4s. 4id. per annum, with £20 4s. 7d.
fees, &c. There are two private schools in the par-
ish. A society's school is situate at Connicavel, on
the borders of the parish, at which children, belong-
ing to this place, are also educated.
DYSART,* a parish in Fifeshire, on the frith of
Forth, to the east of Kirkcaldy. Its form is that of
an irregular parallelogram, nearly 4 miles in length
from north to south, and varying from 1+ to 2| miles
in breadth from east to west. It is bounded on the
south by the frith ; on the east by the parishes of
Wemyss and Markinch ; on the north by Kinglassie ;
and on the west by Kinglassie, Auchterderran, and
Kirkcaldy. The sea-coast — which extends between
2 and 3 miles — is bold and rocky, and the surface of
the parish afterwards continues to ascend for about
a mile towards the north. The parish contains
3,054 Scots acres, the whole of which are arable,
with the exception of about 400 acres whieh are
under wood. The rent of land varies from £6 6s.
per acre to £1 5s. ; the average rent may be about
£2 5s. per acre. The annual value of real property
for the landward part of the parish, in 1815, £4,578";
for the burgh of Dysart, £4,180; total £8,758.
The valued rent of the parish is £5,321 6s. 8d.
Scots Coals have from a very early period been
wrought in this parish ; and there are still mines at
work on the estate of the Earl of Rosslyn. The
coals in the neighbourhood of Dysart have been
repeatedly on fire. They were remarkably so in 1662,
owing, it is supposed, to the spontaneous combus-
* The nainp of this parish is obviously Celtic, D>j*-ard, sig.
nifymg 'the Height of God;' it is therefore probable that, at
ho early period, a place uf worship existed here, from which
the mum- originated.
tion of a quantity of pyrites. George Agricola, the
great metallurgist, who died in 1555, takes notice of
this phenomenon as occurring here. Buchanan, from
this circumstance, fixed on the neighbourhood ol
Dysart for the scene of exorcism in his ' Francis-
canus,' and gives an admirable descriptive view of it
under the horror of an eruption :
Campus erat late incultns, noo fioribus horti
Arrident, non messe a<?ri, noo frondibus arbus:
Vix sterilis siccis vestitur arena mvricis ;
Kt pecorum rara in soils vestigia terris :
Vieioi Deserta vocant. Ibi saxea subter
Antra tegunt nigras vulcaoia semina cautes :
Sulphureis passim concepta ineetidia venis,
Fumiferam volvunt nebulam, picenque vapore
Semper anhelat humus : e^erisque inclusn cavernis
Flamma furens, dum laefaodo penetrare sub auras
Conatur, totis passim spiraeula campis
Findit, et ingenti tellurem pandit liiatu :
Teter odor tristisque habitus faeiesque locorum.
There are beds of ironstone lying below the coal,
which are also worked where they come near the
surface. The ironstone is usually shipped for Car-
ron works ; a ton is said to yield 12 cwt. of iron.
There are also limestone and freestone quarries.
The principal manufacture in the parish at pre
sent is that of checks and ticks, which was intro-
duced about the commencement of the last cen-
tury. In 1836 the number of looms employed
was about 2,088; the quantity of cloth annually
made was supposed to be about 31,006,720 yards;
and the value about £150,236. There are a mill to
the east of Dysart, for spinning flax, which employs
from 80 to 100 persons, a pottery for making stot.e-
ware, a rope-work, and a patent slip-dock for re-
pairing vessels — Besides the burgh of Dysart, there
are several populous villages in the parish. Path-
head is at the south-western extremity of the par-
ish : which see. Immediately adjoining, and to the
north-east of Pathhead, is Sinclairtown, built on the
property of the Earl of Rosslyn. It is more modern
than Pathhead, and contains a population of 1,240.
Still farther to the north-east are Easter and Wester
Gallatown, with a population of 1,053. There are
also two smaller hamlets, viz., Borland, containing
184 inhabitants ; and Hackley-moor, containing 434.
— The population of this parish, in 1755, was 2,367;
in 1801, it was 5,385; and in 1831, 7,104. The
number of families, in 1831, was 1,712; of which,
106 were chiefly employed in agriculture, and 1,222
in trade, manufactures, and handicraft This parish.
is in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy, and synod of Fife.
The church of Dysart was erected in 1802; it is a
plain building capable of containing 1,600 persons.
It is a collegiate charge, a second minister having
been established in 1620. The Patron of both char-
ges is the Earl of Rosslyn. The stipend of the 1st
minister is £265 10s. 5d. ; glebe £21. He is also
entitled to a fish-teind which is of little value and
never exacted ; 16 chalders of salt, worth about £3
10s. per annum; a supply of coals, worth about £9
per annum ; and 15s. lOd. yearly from some old
buildings feued to the patron. The stipend of the
2d minister is £207 lis. 3d., with coals; but he has
neither manse nor glebe. The unappropriated teinds
of the parish amount to £714 4s. 7d. In Pathhead
a chapel was erected some years ago in connection
with the church of Scotland, in which the clergymen
of the parish alternately preach and dispense the
ordinances of religion To accommodate those of
the population residing .n the northern extremity of
the parish, a chapel has been erected at Thornton in
the neighbouring parish of Markinch, 13 miles from
Dysart; and portions of this parish, of Markinch,
and of Kinglassie, have been erected into a quoad
sacra parish — There are a chapel connected with the
Relief Synod at Dysart, built in 1772; sittings 750;
DYSART.
419
and one belonging to the Associate Synod of Original
Seeeders; built in 1763; sittings 795. The stipend
of the minister of the former is £100, with manse
and garden; of the latter, £126 There are 14
schools in the parish, two of which are taught by
females. The parochial, or rather burgh-school, is
situated in the town of Dysart, and is well-attended.
The teacher is paid partly from the town-funds, and
partly from money mortified for the purpose, the
sum of £43 per annum, besides his school-fees.
There are 3 other unendowed schools in the town.
At Pathhead there is a school endowed by the late
Mr. Philp of Edenshead, for the education of 100
children, who, as at Kirkcaldy, receive a yearly al-
lowance for clothing; and there are also in this vil-
lage 3 other unendowed schools ; there are 2 schools
at Sinclairtown, 3 at Gallatown, and 1 at Borland,
all unendowed.
The town of Dysakt is a royal burgh, and joins
with Kirkcaldy, Kinghorn, and Burntisland in send-
ing a member to parliament. Parliamentary consti-
tuency, in 1839, 130. It was originally a burgh-of-
barony holding of the St. Clairs of Rosslyn, and
subsequently of the Lords Sinclair. About the be-
ginning of the 16th century, it was erected into a
royal burgh, but the early charters have been lost.
A few years ago, the burgh was disfranchised, in
consequence of some informality at the election of
the magistrates ; and its affairs have since been
under the superintendence of three managers ap-
pointed by the court of session. The revenue, in
1838-9, was £908. The burgh consists of three
narrow streets, having a kind of square in the centre.
The central or high street presents a number of
antique substantial houses, having dates and inscrip-
tions on their fronts. Many of them had piazzas on
the ground-floor, where the merchants exposed their
goods for sale; but these are now mostly built up.
In the centre of the town is the town-house, which
contains a council-hall, the prison, the weigh-house,
and the guard-house. It is a plain building, orna-
mented with a tower and spire. Fortunately the
prison requires to be but seldom used. The har-
bour of Dysart, though not deficient in size for the
trade, was formerly very unsafe; the swell, when
there was a gale from the east, being so great that
vessels were driven from their moorings and nearly
wrecked within it. A few years ago, however, an
adjoining quarry was converted into a wet dock,
which has 18 feet of water, and is sufficient to con-
tain 17 or 18 vessels of different burden, exclusive
of the old or outer harbour. The population of the
burgh, in 1831, was 1801. So far back as 1450,
salt was manufactured ,and shipped at Dysart, not
only to other places in Scotland, but to Holland and
the Continent ; fish was also exported, as also great
quantities of coal; and malting and brewing were
carried on to a great extent at an early period. In
fact it is admitted that Dysart enjoyed a large share
of the trade which the different burghs on the south
side of the Forth anciently possessed. But the same
circumstances which destroyed the trade of the
other burghs, had a destructive effect upon that of
this town ; its trade decayed, and its shipping rapidly
disappeared. A few brigs, and a few sloops, are all
that now belong to the harbour, and foreign vessels
seldom visit it, except a few from Holland or the
Baltic About a mile north of the town there is
still standing a large memorial stone, which tradition
says marks the spot where a battle was fought with
the Danes ; and about half-a-mile farther north, is a
farm called Carberry where the Romans are said to
have had a station. The remains of the camp are
said to have been formerly visible, but no traces of
it are now to be seen : the tradition is strength-
ened, however, by the name of the place. Near the
middle of the harbour is a high rock called the Fort,
which is said to have been fortified by Oliver Crom-
well, but no part of the works now remains Al-
though not mentioned in Spottiswoode's list of re-
ligious houses, there is said to have been a priory of
black friars in Dysart, the chapel of which was dedi-
cated to St. Dennis. Part of the old wall of this
chapel, which still retains its name, yet remains,
but it has for a long period been converted into a
smithy. Near the chapel of St. Dennis is the old
church of Dysart, which bears the marks of having
been a handsome piece of architecture in its time.
On one of the windows is the date 1570 ; but the
steeple and the porch bear marks of greater anti-
quity West of Dysart are the lands of Ravenscraig
belonging to the Earl of Rosslyn. Here, on a lofty
rock which overhangs the sea-shore, are the ruins
of Ravenscraig castle, sometimes also called Ravens-
lieugh castle. The castle and lands of Ravensheugh
appeared to have belonged to the Crown at a very
early period; but they were granted by James III.,
in 1470, to "William 3d Earl of Orkney, the ancestor
of the present proprietor, in return for his resigna-
tion of that earldom to the Crown. It afterwards
became the residence of the descendants of the 3d
son, the Lords Sinclair, from whom it has descended
with the other estates to the present proprietor. It
was still inhabited at the time Sibbald wrote, but it
has now for many years been in ruins Adjoining
Ravenscraig are the lands of Dunnikeir the property
of Sir John Oswald, on part of which the village of
Pathhead is built. This property anciently belonged
to the family of Lundin of Balgonie ; and afterwards,
according to Sibbald, to a Mr. John Watson, who
built the old house in Pathhead, and mortified several
acres of land near Burntisland for maintaining poor
widows. About the end of the 17th century, Dun-
nikeir became the property of the ancestor of the
present proprietor In the northern portion of the
parish is Stratnorej the property of John Fergus,
Esq., which in part anciently belonged to the Hep-
burns of Waughton; and at the north-east extremity
Skeddoway, long the property of a family of the
name of Alexander, now of the Earl of Rosslyn
Dysart house, the residence of the Earl of Rosslyn, is
situated above the sea-shore to the west of the
burgh. It is a plain but neat and commodious man-
sion, and commands an extensive and very beautiful
view of the frith, and of the scenery to the east.
The gardens are very beautiful The barony of
Dysart appears to have belonged, so early as the
13th century, to the Sinclair's of Rosslyn. Dysart
gives the title of Earl to the ancient family of Tol-
lemache. Of this family — whose extraction is English
— there was, in the 25° of Edward L, one Hugh de
Tollemache, who held of the Crown the manor of
Bentley, in the county of Suffolk; and, in the 29th
year of that monarch's reign, had summons to attend
the expedition into Scotland. Dysart formerly gave
the title of Earl to the family of Murray.
EAC
420
EAG
E
EACHAIG (The), a small river in Argyleshire,
in the district of Cowal, which has its rise in Loch
Eck, and runs into the Holy Loch. It affords good
trout and par fishing.
EAGERNESS, a promontory on the east coast
of Wigtonshire, protruding southward, and shutting
in Garlieston bay. It is about a mile long, and J of
a mile in average breadth, and terminates in a rocky,
but not very high bank.
EAGLESHAM,* a parish which forms the south-
eastern portion of the county of Renfrew. It extends
about 6 miles from east to west, and about 7 from
north to south ; and is bounded on the north-west
by Mearns, in the same county ; on the south-west
by Fenwick, and on the south by Loudoun, both in
Ayrshire ; and on the east by Carmunnock and East
Kilbride, both in Lanarkshire. The soil is various.
The higher and western districts consist partly of
dry heath, and partly of deep moss, with a number
of green hills, and much natural meadow-ground.
The moors are among the best in Scotland for game.
The arable land in the lower part of the parish is
very productive. The whole parish enjoys free air
and excellent water, and is remarkably healthy.
The river White Cart takes its rise out of the moors
of Eaglesham and East Kilbride, and in its course
northwards divides the counties of Lanark and Ren-
frew. The water of Earn, a tributary of the Cart,
flows on the north-west of this parish, which is also
watered by several rivulets, and contains two small
lakes, Binnend and Lochgoin, the latter giving name
to a farmstead where dwelt John Howie, author of
the 'Lives of Scottish Worthies.' Balagich and
Dimwan, each about 1,000 feet above the level of
the sea, are the highest hills in the parish, and, in-
deed, with two exceptions — Mistylaw and Hill of
Staik — the highest in the county. At Balagich
there have been observed several pieces of barytes.
There are also found large masses of wacke or Os-
mond stone, which stands the strongest heat without
renting, and is, therefore, used in building ovens and
other furnaces The estate of Eaglesham formed
part of the extensive grant made by David I. to
Walter, the founder of the House of Stewart, be-
fore the middle of the 12th century. By Walter
it was transferred to Robert de Montgomery, who
was one of those knights that accompanied him when
he migrated from England to Scotland. This estate,
which was the first, and, for two centuries, the chief
possession of the Scottish family of Montgomery,
has remained their property, undiminished, for the
long period of seven hundred years. For their suc-
cession to the Eglinton estates and their elevation to
the peerage, see article Eclinton. — Between the
Cart and a rivulet called Mains water, part of the
ruins of the castle of Polnoon, or Ponoon, may still
be traced. It was built by Sir John Montgomery of
Eaglesham, with the money received for the ransom
of Henry Percy, the celebrated Hotspur, whom he
took prisoner with his own hand at the battle of Otter-
* In the Old Statistic.il Account we are gravely told that this
place received its name from eagles having "often perched on
the Iwhn or low ground where afterwards the village was
built;" but there is no reason to believe that it ever was fre.
quented hy these birds. A church having existed here from a
remote period, a more probable derivation is from eug/ais,
(Gaelic,) ' a church,' and the Saxon term fur a hamlet. Thus,
EagUus.ham signifies the 'church. hamlet,* or, according to a
Scottish phrase still iu use, the kirk-town,
burn, in 1388. It is said that the ransom being called
poind money, the name Polnoon was thence derived ;
but this seems strained and far-fetched. Polnoon
lodge, which stands on the north-east of the village
of Eaglesham, is a small mansion of modern con-
struction, belonging to the Earl of Eglinton In the
year 1769 the old village was demolished, and a new
one begun to be btult on a plan which was formed
two years before by Alexander, the 10th earl, a
nobleman of fine taste, who, however, did not live
to see it completed. It chiefly consists of two rows
of houses, generally of two stories, facing each other
at the distance of 100 yards at the upper, and 250 at
the lower end, the nature of the ground not admit-
ting of a more regular line of street. The houses
have each a kitchen-garden at the back. Midway
between the rows there runs a streamlet to which,
from each side, there is a gentle descent, partly
formed into washing greens, and partly embellished
with trees. Upon the whole, the appearance of this
village is eminently beautiful. The tenements in
the village are held of the family of Eglinton, on
leases for 999 years, at a moderate ground rent.
There is no other village in the parish. Cotton-
spinning has been carried on here since the end of
the last century Robert Pollok, the lamented
author of ' The Course of Time,' was a native of
this parish. He was born at North Muirhouse,
where his father was a farmer, in 1 798 ; was licensed
to preach in connexion with the United Asociate
Synod in 1827 ; and died of consumption in the
autumn of the same year. In his sketches of inani-
mate nature he returns again and again to the scenery
of his beloved home :
" 'Mong hills, and streams,
And melancholy deserts, where the sun
Saw, as he passed, a shepherd only here
And there watching bis little flock ; or heard
The ploughman talking to his steers."
To the trees which overshadowed the paternal man-
sion, his verse thus pays homage : —
" Much of my native scenery appears,
And presses forward to be in my song ;
But must not now : for much behind awaits
Of higher note. Four trees I pass not by,
Which o'er our house their evening shadow threw :—
Three ash, and one of elm. Tall trees they were,
And old ; and had been old a century
Before my day. None living could say aught
About their youth ; but they were goodly trees :
And oft I wondered, as I sat and thought
Beneath their summer shade, or in the night
Of winter heard the spirits of the wind
Growling among their boughs, — how they had grown
So high in such a rough tempestuous place :
And when a hapless branch, torn by the blast,
Fell down, I mourned as if a friend had fallen."
Population, in 1801, 1,176; in 1831, 2,372. Houses,
in 1831, 242. Assessed property, in 1815, £10,117.
The parish contains 15,450 English acres, and, ex-
cepting 550 acres, wholly belongs to the noble family
of Eglinton Eaglesham is in the presbytery of Glas-
gow. Stipend £278 14s. 6d. ; glebe £25 ; unappro-
priated teinds £856 2s. 5d. Patron, the Earl of
Eglinton. A diminutive church, which existed be-
fore the Reformation, continued to serve as the
parochial place of worship till 1790, when Archibald,
the 11th Earl of Eglinton, much to his honour, erect-
ed and fitted up a handsome church of an octagonal
form, with a steeple There are meeting-houses of
the United Associate Synod, and a Reformed Pres-
EAG
421
EAR
byterian clmrch here. — Salary of parochial school-
master £30, with about £7 of other emoluments.
E AGLESHAY, or Egilsbat, one of the Orkneys,
about 2J miles long, and 1 mile broad. The coast is
in general sandy. On the north side of the island is a
large tract of sand covered with bent, and sheltering
great numbers of rabbits. This island is celebrated
for having been the place where the pious St. Mag-
nus was murdered. It was formerly a vicarage,
united to the ancient vicarage of Rousay. At the
west end of the island is a small Gothic church,
which was dedicated to St. Magnus. It has a pyra-
midical steeple at the west end ; and at the east end
is a vaulted choir which joins to the body of the
church. The church is said to have been erected on
the very spot where the infamous deed was perpe-
trated by his ambitious relation. The population, in
1801, was 197; in 1831, 22S. Houses 41. This
island is entirely composed of sandstone and sand-
stone flag, and in some places the strata are very
much elevated. It bes to the east of Rousay, from
which it is separated by Howa sound, not exceeding
a mile in breadth.
EAGLESHAY, one of the Shetland isles; con-
stituting part of the parish of North-Maven. It is
situated in Islesburgh cove, on the east of St. Mag-
nus bay, and is an excellent island for grazing. It
abounds with rabbits.
EALAN-NA-BHRIU. See Edderachylis.
EALAN*-NA-COOMB, or Ealan-na-Nao-
imph, — that is, 'the Island of Saints,' — a small
island off the coast of Sutherland, and in the parish
of Tongue. Here were formerly a chapel and burial-
place, the remains of which are still visible. On the
south side of this island the sea, after passing for
several yards through a narrow channel, spouts up
into the air, sometimes to the height of 30 feet,
through a large circular hole in the rock ; and a few
seconds afterwards there is a discharge of water from
the east side of the island, with a loud noise resem-
bling the explosion of cannon. This happens only
when it is half-flood, and a gale at north-west.
EALAN-GHEIRRIG, a small rock situated on
the mouth of Loch Riddan, in the parish of Inver-
choalain, Argyleshire, memorable in the annals of
the 17th century. In 1685, when the Duke of
Monmouth attempted an invasion of England, the
unfortunate Archibald, Earl of Argyle, was induced
to favour the invasion. He brought with him three
frigates, and a considerable quantity of arms and
ammunition. With these he landed at Dunstaff-
nage, and, having collected an army of 3,000 men,
proceeded through the narrow kyles of Bute, to
Ealan-gheirrig, which he fortified very strongly, and
' there deposited his spare arms and ammunition.
Soon after, upon the appearance of some ships of
war, the garrison surrendered.
EALAN-NA-ROAN, — that is 'the Island of
Seals,' — an island on the north coast of Sutherland-
shire, annexed to the parish of Tongue. It is about
2 miles in circumference, and is inhabited by four or
five families. It is entirely composed of coarse
pudding-stone, on the surface of which is a shallow
soil almost entirely produced by art. About the
year 1783, the centre of this island sunk consider-
ably, leaving a pool of water where there was arable
land before.
EALAN-USNICH, a small island of Argyleshire,
in Loch-Etive.
EARLSFERRY, a town in the parish of Kilcon-
quhar, on the frith of Forth, Fifeshire; 6 miles east
of Largo; 2 south of Colinsburgh ; and h a-mile west
* Eaton, or Eihm, signifying ' Island,' is of frequent occur-
rence in Gaelic topography.
of Ely. The tradition is that this town was originally
constituted a burgh by Malcolm III., between 1057
and 1093, at the request of Macduff, the Maormor
of Fife, who, in his flight from the vengeance of
Macbeth, was concealed in a cave at Kincraig point,
which still bears his name, and was afterwards fer-
ried across the frith to Dunbar by the fishermen of
the place. From this circumstance it was called
Earlsferry; and it likewise obtained the privilege
that the persons of all who should cross the frith
from thence should be for a time inviolable, no boat
being allowed to leave the shore in pursuit, till those
who had already sailed were half-way over. There
does not seem any reason to doubt the fact of Mac-
duff having been concealed in the cave at Kincraig,
nor that he was assisted in making his escape to the
opposite coast by the inhabitants of the village in
its neighbourhood. But the erection of it into a
royal burgh must have been at a subsequent period,
and was probably done at the request of one of the
descendants of the great Macduff. The Celtic peo-
ple of Scotland erected no royal burghs; and we
have no evidence of any earlier than the reign of
David I. or Malcolm IV. The title of Earl, too,
was equally unknown to the Celts; so that the name
of Earlsferry must have been bestowed at a subse-
quent period, though in commemoration of the es-
cape of Macduff. Earlsferry, however, is a burgh of
great antiquity, but its earliest charter, the date of
which is unknown, was destroyed by fire in Edin-
burgh. A new charter was in consequence granted
by James IV., in which it is narrated that the burgh
of Earlshall was " of old past memory of men,
erected into ane free burgh," &c. By this charter
all its ancient privileges and immunities were re-
newed and confirmed. A considerable trade is said
at one time to have been carried on here, and two
annual fairs and two weekly markets to have been
held. This has long been at an end, and the fairs
and markets have long been discontinued. The
magistrates of Earlsferry have the same powers with
other magistrates of roj'al burghs; but it does not
appear that at any time Earlsferry had exercised its
privilege of sending a commissioner to the Scottish
parliament. The town-house stands in the middle
of the town. It is an old building, surmounted by
a spire, in which there is a clock and bell. It con-
tains the town-hall, and a very wretched cell which
forms the prison for criminals ; fortunately, however,
it is little if at all used. Debtors, when there are
any, are confined in the town-hall, and sleep in a
small room adjoining, but it is several years since
there occurred a case of imprisonment for debt. The
population is about 600.
EARLSTON, a parish in the south-western part
of the district of Lauderdale, Berwickshire. It is
bounded on the north by Legerwood and Gordon;
on the east by Hume and Nenthorn; on the south
by Roxburghshire and Merton ; and on the west by
Leader water, which divides it from Roxburghshire.
Its form is somewhat oblong, stretching from east
to west, but with deep indentations on both sides
in the middle. From Hardie's-mill-place on the
east, to the top of a projection near Kedslie on the
west, it measures 6 miles; but in breadth it varies
from 3J miles at the western limit, and 2 miles near
the eastern limit, to a mile at the middle. A hill
in the centre of the western division rises nearly
1,000 feet above the level of the sea, and was pro-
bably the site of a Roman encampment. In the
eastern division, and near the northern and southern
limits of the western, are other hills less elevated,
which differ just sufficiently from the features of
lowland scenery to give the district a pastoral aspect.
Other parts of the parish, especially those along the
422
EARLSTON.
banks of the Leader, and those of the south-eastern
division, are comparatively flat. The Leader comes
down upon the north-western angle from the north,
cuts off a small projecting wing, forms the boundary-
line for a distance of 3j- miles, strikes the Tweed
at a point where that noble and joyous river offers
to become the southern boundary, and drives it
off south-eastward along the margin of the con-
terminous parish of Merton. During the whole
course of its connexion with Earlston, the Leader is
a stream of no common beauty, meandering among
the hills and groves of Carolside, sweeping past the
western base of the classic Cowdenknowes [which
see] and merrily careering between the richly- wooded
slopes of Drygrange and Kirklands, till it pays its
tribute to the gorgeously robed queen-river of the
south. One of the head-waters of the Eden rises
about a mile east of the Leader's bed on the north-
ern limits of the parish, and, joined in its progress
by other rills which unite with it to form the main
stream, it forms -the boundary-line, first over most
of the north and next over all the east, during a
course of about 8 miles. While skirting along the
north it is an uninteresting rill, cold in its appear-
ance, and naked in its scenery, but after it sweeps
round to flow along the east, it is overlooked on the
side of Earlston by a phalanx of plantation lj mile
deep, and partakes, in a degree suited to its bulk as
an infant-river, the lively character of the Leader.
Two other rills rise in the interior, and flow respec-
tively toward the Leader and the Eden, contributing
their tiny frolics to the gladsomeness of the general
scene.
In (tide dayes nf the kins Artinir,
All was tliis lond ful tiilcd of faerie.;
The eif-quene with her July coinpaynie,
Danced ful oft in many a grene medy.
Chaucer,
The soil, in some of the arable parts, is clay ; in
some, is a light dry loam; and in several is strong,
rich, and very fertile. The chief mansions are the
splendid edifice of Mellerstain on the east, and the
houses of Cowdenknowes and Carolside on the
Leader. The parish is intersected, in its eastern
division, by the road from Edinburgh to Kelso by
way of Lauder, and has several other roads diverging
from the village of Earlston. Population, in 1801,
1,478; in 1831, 1,710. Houses 310. Assessed pro-
perty, in 1815, ±"7,034.
The village of Earlston stands on the banks of the
Leader, north-east of Cowdenknowes, 7 miles south
of Lauder. It consists principally of one long street,
at right angles with the river, and stretching away
to the east, and presents to the eye two rows of
one-story houses, interrupted occasionally by build-
ings of larger .bulk and greater pretension, used as
inns or shops. The inhabitants, about 900 in num-
ber, are chiefly weavers and agricultural labourers.
The fabrics woven are blankets, plaidings, and very
stout ginghams, and are superintended by manufac-
turers on the spot. The woollen looms are recently
established. One web per week, measuring from
60 to 70 ells, is, on the average, woven by each
weaver, and is paid at 12 shillings nett. The cotton
weavers, though they work 14 hours a-day, while
the woollen weavers work only 11, do not earn per
week more wages than 6 shillings nett. A manu-
factory not long established in the village, and be-
longing to the Misses Whale, gives employment, in
various departments of cotton-weaving, to numbers
of persons who would otherwise be destitute, and
has made a promising attempt to naturalize in the
deep seclusion of this district the production of shawls
and merinos. Earlston has two annual fairs for
horses and cattle, and is the seat of a justice-of-
peace court on the first Tuesday of every month.
Here are the parish-church, a Relief meeting-house,
an Original Seceder meeting-house, an endowed
academy of high provincial character, a subscription
library, a friendly society, and a savings' bank .
Earlston is not a little famous as the birth-place of
Thomas the Rhymer, the earliest poet of Scotland,
who flourished in the village or its vicinity as a
tenant in fee of the opulent barons of the soil, dur-
ing the latter half of the 13th century. He is often
and justly called Thomas of Ersildun, or Ercildoune;
the corrupted name Earlston having been substituted
in consequence, as is believed, of a popular though
doubtful tradition that the village was for a time
the residence of the Earls of March.* In his native
place, as well as throughout Scotland, Thomas is
celebrated among the lower orders solely on account
of his reputed character of a prophet, and in con-
nexion with the rhyming distichs — often of doubtful
meaning, and apparently of multitudinous origin —
which float on the tide of tradition, and along the
currents of ancient and legendary literature. From
some combination of causes easily intelligible by
those who have peered behind the curtain of the
confessional, and studied the expediences and diplo-
macies of the cloister, Thomas appears to have
been made, with the help of a little astuteness in
observing character and perspicacity in calculating
moral chances, an expert tool of priestcraft — either
on his private adventure, or more probably in com-
bination with the monks of Coldingham, who had
power over him as the owners of Ercildoune church,
and dived deep into the politics of the court — for
swaying the wills and influencing the conduct of
wealthy and potent individuals in an age of the no-
bility's intense enslavement, and subjection to enor-
mous pecuniary mulctings, by the pressure of super-
stition. Obtaining credit with the great and the
influential for being a true prophet, — a credit which
could be faeilely manufactured out of a few clever
verified conjectures, and a few predictions either
spoken after the event, and promulged as spoken
before it, or framed in combination with concerted
means to effect their fulfilment, — he, as a matter of
course, was rapidly viewed as a superhumanly gifted
being by the multitude, and became associated, in
the fancy of an ignorant people, with ideas and
legends of whatever methods and invisible commu-
nications would be supposed to aid him in looking
fully and brightly down the vista of futurity. The
faith which remote pastoral districts, and even many
of the lower classes in sections of the country freely
plied with the influences of enlightenment, still re-
pose in the genuineness of his pretended prophetic
character — especially as that character stands wholly
connected with matters of very trivial importance,
and superlatively contrasted to the moral grandeur,
and unutterable magnificence, and altogether sur-
passing worth of the details of true prophecy, as
given in written revelation — is just one humiliating
evidence among several, that the pestilential fogs
and vapours of the Middle ages have not yet been
dispersed by the thorough reclaiming of the moral
marshes of the land.f The ruins of Thomas the
* The name Ercildoune seems to have been derived from the
Cambro-British ArcwUlun, 'the Prospect lull,' and may have
heen adopted to describe the hill south of the village, whence
a somewhat extensive and very tine view is obtained of the
vales nf the Leader and the Tweed.
f Sir W. Scott, in his introduction to the ballad of ' Thomas
the Rhymer,' says: "It cannot be doubted, that Thomas of
Errildoune was a remarkable and important person in his own
tune, since, very shortly alter his death, we find him celebrated
as a prophet and as a poet. Whether he himself made any
pretensions to the first of these characters, or whether it « as
gratuitously conferred upon bun by the credulity of posterity,
it seems difficult to decide. If we may believe Mackenzie,
Leiirmnnt only versified Ihe prophecies deliverer! by Kiizn, an
inspired nun of a convent at Haddington. Hut of this there
seems not to be the most distant proof. On the contrary, all
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423
EAR
Rhymer's residence stand at the west end of the
village, on a low ground intervening between it and
the Leader. A stone, the modern substitute of one
more ancient, in the wall of the parish-church, bears
the inscription :
u Auld Rhymer's race,
Lies iu tiiis place."
Earlston or Ercildoune was occasionally the residence
of King David I. The manor was held in the 12th
century by the family of Lindsay, and afterwards
passed into the possession of the Earls of Dunbar
In addition to the village of Earlston, the parish
contains 3 hamlets, Redpath, Fans, and Mellerstain.
Redpath has about 120 inhabitants. Fans, situated
near the centre of the northern division, has about
150. Mellerstain, situated in the east, and enriched
with an endowed school, has upwards of 200.
Earlston is in the presbytery of Lauder, and synod
of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend .£21 7 14s. 6d. ; glebe £37. Unappropriated
teinds <£217 14s. 6d. The parish-church was built
in 1736. Sittings about 450. The church of Er-
cildoun was given, at the middle of the 12th century,
to the monks of Kelso; and was transferred by them,
about the year 1171, to the monks of Coldingham,
in exchange for the church of Gordon; and it re-
mained with the latter, and was served by a vicar
till the Reformation The parish-school is attended
by a maximum of 176 scholars, and a minimum of
104. Schoolmaster's salary £2S, with £'32 school-
fees, and the interest of .£550. Of 4 non- parochial
schools, one is a boarding-school.
EARLSTOW\NT, a village in the parish of Tilli-
coultry, Clackmannanshire.
EARX" (Loch), a beautiful sheet of water in
the south-western part of Perthshire, east of Loch
ancient authors, who quote the Rhymer's prophecies, uniformly
suppose them to have been emitted by himself. Tons, in Win-
town's 'Chronicle' —
* OF this fycht quilura spak Thomas
Of Ersyldoune, that sayd ill derne.
There sold meit stalwnrtly, starke and Sterne.
He i-ayd it in his prophecy r
But how he wist it was/e/7y.'
Book viik ehap. 32.
There could have been noferly (marvel) in Wintnwn's eyes at
least, how Thomas came by his knowledge of future events,
had he ever heard of the inspired non of Haddington, which, it
cannot be doubted, would have I een a soluticoi of the mystery,
much to the taste of the prior of L u'hleveu. Whatever doubt's,
however, the learned might have, as to the source of the Rhy-
mer's prophetic skill, the vulgar had no hesitation to ascribe
the whole to the intercourse between the bard and the queen
of Faery. The popular tale bears, that Thomas was carried off,
at ao early age, to the fairy land, where he acquired all the
knowledge which made him afterwards so famous. After 7
years' residence, he was permitted to return to the earth, to
enlighten and astonish his countrymen by his prophetic powers ;
still, however, remaining bound to return to his royal mistress,
when she should intimate her pleasure. Accordingly, while
Thomas was making merry with his friends m the tower of
Ercildoune, a person ame running in, and told, with marks of
fear and astonishment, that a hart and bind had left the neigh-
bouring forest, and were, composedly and slowly, parading the
ptreet of the village. The prophet instantly anise, left his
habitation, and followed the wonderful animals to the forest,
whence he was never seen to return. According to the popu-
lar belief, he still 'drees his ueird ' in Fairy laud, and is one
day expected to revisit earth. Jn the meanwhile, his memory
is held in the most profound respect. The Eildon tree, from
beneath the shade of which he delivered his prophecies, now
no longer exi-t=; hut the spot is marked by a large slone,
called Eildon tree stone. A neighbouring rivulet takes the
name of the Eogle burn (Goblin brook) from the Rhvmer's
supernatural visitants. Toe veneration paid to his dwelling-
place even attached itself in some degree to a person, who,
within the memory of man, chose to set up his residence in the
ruins of Learmonl's tower. The name of this man was Mur-
ray, a kind of herbalist; who, by dint of some knowledge in
simples, the possession of a musical clock, ao electrical machine,
and a stuffed alligator, added to a supposed communication with
Thomas the Rhymer, lived for many years in very good credit
as a wizard.";-' Border Minstrelsy,' vol. iv. pp. i 13 — 115.
* The name appears to be derived from its situation to the
west of the country of Strathearn ; Eryn or Serin in (iae.ic
signifying ' West.' " Which name (Lneh Earn) it has," savs
Christopher Irvine, [Historian Scoticas Nomeuclatura Latino
Voel, and north-east of Loch Lubnaig; 13 J miles
from Callander, and about 30 miles west of Perth.
In length it is 7 miles; its circumference is about 19
miles, and its depth is said to be 100 fathoms. t
There is a road along each side of the lake from the
village of Lochearnhead to St. Fillans ; so that the
visiter may adopt either way in traversing its banks
his fancy may prompt ; or if he wish to enjoy a full
view of all the beauties which surround it, he may
make the circuit of the whole with much ease.
There are few Scottish lakes more worthy of a visit
than Loch Earn. Its shore throughout, and for at
least half-a-mile inland, is clothed with thriving
copse and brushwood, — creating continual changes of
the scenery, and a succession of the most picturesque
and romantic news. Beyond these woods, on every
side, hills and mountains arise, piercing the clouds
with their lofty summits, and adding grandeur and
sublimity to the scene. Looking from either end of
the lake the view is peculiarly magnificent : the
whole valley can be seen at once, — with its enormous
vista of mountains enclosing all aroflnd, — the trans-
parent lake which forms its glassy centre, — and the
beautiful fringing of wood with which the base of
the mountains and the shores of the lake are adorned.
Dr. Macculloch says : " Limited as are the dimen-
sions of Loch Earn, it is exceeded in beauty by few
of our lakes, as far as it is possible for many beauties
to exist in so small a space. I will not say that it
presents a great number of distinct landscapes adapted
for the pencil, — but such as it does possess are re-
markable for their consistency of character, and for
a. combination of sweetness and simplicity, with a
grandeur of manner scarcely to be expected within
such narrow bounds. Its style is that of a lake of
far greater dimensions : the hills which bound it
being lofty and bold and rugged, with a variety of
character not found in many of even far greater
magnitude and extent. It is a miniature and a mo-
del of scenery that might well occupy ten times the
space. Yet the eye does not feel this. There is
nothing trifling or small in the details ; nothing to
diminish its grandeur of style, to tell us that we are
contemplating a reduced copy. On the contrary,
there is a perpetual contest between our impressions
and our reasonings: we know that a few short miles
comprehend the whole, and yet we feel as if it was
a landscape of many miles, a lake to be ranked among
those of the first order and dimensions. "While its
mountains thus rise in majestic simplicity to the sky,
terminating in those bold, and various, and rocky
outlines which belong to so much of this geological
line, from Dunkeld and Killicrankie, even to Loch
Catteran, the surfaces of the declivities are equally
various and bold, — enriched with precipices and
masses of protruding rock, with deep hollows and
ravines, and with the courses of innumerable tor-
rents which pour from above, and, as they descend,
become skirted with trees till they lose themselves
in the waters of the lake. Wild woods also ascend
along their surface, in all that irregularity of distri-
bution so peculiar to these rocky mountains, — less
solid and continuous than at Loch Lomond, — less
scattered and less romantic than at Loch Catteran ;
but from these very causes, aiding to confer on Loch
Vernacnla, 16!>7,] " because it lieth to the west of Loch Tea :
and [liecause} when the west wind bloweth hard on the lake
it raiseth the river (Earn), and maketh it swell and overflow
its banks." We may, with perfect consistency, adopt honest
Christopher's conclusion, while we hesitate to adroit tile
grounds on which he appears to have arrived at it.
f This great depth may account for the fact that it was never
known to freeze, however intense the frost. Much has been
written as to thi6 quality in the waters of Loch Ness; and it
has been attributed to many causes: iu that of Loch Ness to
an impregnation ot sulphur. It has been proved, however, that
this is not the case; and that the real cause of Loch Ness, as
well as many other lochs, not freezing-, is their great depth.
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424
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Earn a character entirely its own. If the shores of
the lake are not deeply marked by bays and promon-
tories, still they are sufficiently varied ; nor is there
one point where the hills reach the water in that
meagre and insipid manner which is the fault of so
many of our lakes, and which is the case throughout
the far greater part, even of Loch Catteran. Loch
Earn has no blank. Such as its beauty is, it is al-
ways consistent and complete. Its shores, too, are
almost everywhere accessible, and almost everywhere
so wooded as to produce those foregrounds which
the spectator so much desires ; while, from the same
cause, they present much of that species of shore
scenery which is independent of the mountain boun-
dary. Elegant ash-trees springing from the very
water, and drooping their branches over it, green
and cultivated banks, rocky points divided by grav-
elly beaches, which are washed by the bright curling
waves of the lake, the brawling stream descending
along its rocky and wooded channel, and the cascade
tumbling along the precipice, which rises from the
deep and still water below, — these and the richly
cultivated and green margin, with the houses and
traces of art that ornament its banks, produce in
themselves pictures of great variety, marked by a
character of rural sweetness and repose, not com-
monly found among scenery of this class. Thus
also the style of Loch Earn varies, as we assume
different points of elevation for our views, and per-
haps in a greater degree than any of the Highland
lakes, — assuredly more than in any one of similar
dimensions. At the lower levels, and perhaps most
of all at the western extremity where the banks are
lowest, and at the eastern, where the beautifully
wooded island forms a leading object in the picture,
every landscape is marked by tranquillity and gentle-
ness of character, — a character adapted to glassy
waters and summer suns, to the verdure of spring
and the repose of evening. High up on the hills,
the grandeur of the bold Alpine landscape succeeds
to the tranquillity of the rural one; and amid the
wild mountain forms, and the rude magnificence of
aspiring rocks and precipices, enhanced and embel-
lished by the gleaming lights of a troubled sky and
the passage of clouds, we almost forget the placid
and cultivated scenes we have just quitted, and
imagine ourselves transported to some remote spot
of the distant Highlands." [Macculloch's ' Highlands
and Western Isles of Scotland,' vol. i. pp. 124 —
126.] Benvoirlich is the loftiest of those mountains
which lend their grandeur to the scenery of Loch
Earn : see Arroquhar. Upon the margin of the
lake, and near the base of the mountain, is situated
the house of Ardvoirlich, the residence of William
Stewart, Esq., the proprietor of the Ben, and the
present representative of an ancient family of the
Stewarts to whom this property has long belonged.
The grounds are well- wooded, the situation pleasant,
and the walks lead to a variety of picturesque scenes
and waterfalls in adjoining ravines. Near the middle
of the lawn, between the house and the road, grows
a thorn-tree, 150 years of age, which is interesting
both from its shape, its size, and its age. The
branches spread out thick and wide on every side,
and nearly horizontal; so that forty men might easily
dine beneath its shade. Nearly opposite to Ardvoir-
lich is a lime-quarry, which has been a great source
of fertility and wealth to the valley of Strathearn.
The stones are conveyed by water to the east end
of the lake, whence they are carted away by the
purchasers sometimes to a distance of 20 miles.
This valuable quarry is on the property of Lord
Breadalbane Nearly 2 miles from the house of
Ardvoirlich, and at the south-west end of the lake,
is the ancient castellated mansion of Edinample, the
property of Lord Breadalbane ; near which are the
remains of an old chapel. This place is beautifully
wooded, and is situated in a narrow glen through
which the Ample finds its way to the lake. The
stream is here suddenly precipitated in two spouts
over a projecting cliff of rocks, into a profound abyss
where they unite, and rush again over a second pre-
cipice, forming a beautiful cascade near the castle ■
About 1 £ mile up the northern side of the lake from
St. Fillans, the traveller comes to the opening of
Glentarkin, in which the great stone of Glentarkin
stands, — a singular natural curiosity worthy of a
visit. There is no road up this glen, and it is very
difficult of access; but a traveller in the Highlands
must not pay attention to these circumstances, if he
would see all that is curious in such a rugged country.
Nearly 3 miles up the glen, in the centre of a green
sloping declivity between two rocky mountains,
stands this singular stone. The remarkable thing
about it is the beautifully balanced position in which
it stands, and in which it has stood certainly since
the remote period when it was detached from one
of the rocky hills in its neighbourhood, and fell to
its present situation. At the base where it rests on
the ground, it measures 70 feet in circumference, but
at about ten feet from the ground it spreads out
equally on all sides, and its circumference is here
1 10 feet. Under its projecting sides, 60 or 100 men
might find shelter. The solid contents of this enor-
mous block above ground, exceeds 25,000 feet.. — At
the east end of the lake stands the little village of
St. Fillans, beautiful alike from its situation, and
from the neatness and regularity with which it is
built : see St. Fillans In the middle of the lower
part of the lake opposite the village is the only island
which the lake contains. It is called Neish island.
In early times it is said to have been inhabited by a
family of the name of Neish, from whom it derives
its appellation. This family and their adherents had
long been at deadly feud with the M'Nabs, whose
residence was at the head of Loch Tay. Many
battles were fought between them with various suc-
cess; but at length one was fought in Glenboult-
achan, about 2 miles north of Loch Earn foot, in
which the M'Nabs were victorious, and the unfortu-
nate Neishes cut off almost to a man, A small rem-
nant of them, however, still lived in the island of
Loch Earn, the head of which was an old man, a
relation of the original chief of the family. He sub-
sisted chiefly by plundering the people in the neigh-
bourhood. On one occasion — it is said to have been
in the reign of James V the chief of the M'Nabs,
who resided at Kennil house, near the head of Loch
Tay, had sent his servant to Crieff for provisions
for a Christmas merry-making. The servant was
waylaid on his return at Loch Earn foot, and robbed
of all his purchases; he went home therefore empty
handed, and told his tale to the laird. M'Nab had
twelve sons, all men of great strength, but one in
particular exceedingly athletic, who was ironically
termed, Join mion Mac an Appa, or ' smooth John
M'Nab.' In the evening these young men were
gloomily meditating some signal revenge on their
old enemies, when their father entered and said, — ■
Bhe'n oidch an oidch, nam bu gliilleam im yillean, —
' the night is the night, if the lads were but lads !'
This hint was taken as it was meant, for each man
instantly started to his feet, and belted on his dirk,
his claymore, and his pistols. Led by their brother
John, they set out, taking a fishing-boat on their
shoulders from Loch Tay, carrying it over the
mountains and glens till they reached Loch Earn,
where they launched it, and passed over to the
island. All was silent in the habitation of Neish ;
secure in their insular situation, and having the boats
EAR
425
EAS
at the island, all tad gone to sleep without fear of
surprise. Smooth John dashed open with his foot
the door of Neish's house; and the party rushing in,
they attacked their old enemies, putting every one
of them to the sword, and cutting off their heads,
with the exception of one man and a boy who con-
cealed themselves under a bed. Carrying off the
heads of their enemies and any plunder they could
secure, the youths presented themselves to their
father ; and Smooth John, holding up the head of
the chieftain of the Neishes, said to his father, Na
biodk fromgh, oirbh ! ' Be in fear for nothing!' while
the piper struck up the pibroch of victory. The old
laird, after pleasing himself by contemplating the
bloody heads, declared, ' That the night was the
•night, and the lads were the lads!'
EARN (The), a river in Perthshire, which rises
about 4 miles aljove the village of Comrie, in the
loch of the same name, and flowing eastward in a
course full of beautiful curves, falls into the Tay
near the village of Caerpow, in the parish of Aber-
nethy. It forms the boundary of all the parishes
which are situated on its banks, with the exception
of those of Comrie, Forteviot, and Dunbarnie, all
which have portions on both sides of the river. On
its northern margin, besides those portions of the
parishes which we have just named, are Crieff, Tri-
nity-Gask, Gask, Aberdalgie, and Rhynd ; on the
south are a part of Comrie, Strowan, Muthill, Black-
ford, Auchterarder, Dunning, a part of Forteviot,
Fot'gandenny, a part of Dunbarnie, and Abernethy.
All these form the valley of Strathearn [which
see], one of the richest and most beautiful tracts of
country in Scotland. The course of the Earn is
considerably more than 30 miles in length. Its prin-
cipal tributary waters are the Ruchill and Lednoch,
which join it at Comrie, and the Moy which falls
into it in the parish of Forteviot. It is navigable
for about 3 miles above its mouth, or as far as to the
Bridge-of-Earn, for vessels of from 30 to 50 tons
burden. Salmon, trout, pike, and perch, are found
in its waters. The salmon-fishings are, however, of
no great value. The sources of the Earn being sur-
rounded by numerous high mountains, which readily
attract great masses of cloud, its waters are often
suddenly swelled to such a degree that very con-
siderable devastation is occasioned by the floods,
particularly in the lower part of Strathearn.
EARN (Bridge of), a village, situated on the
southern bank of the Earn, in the parish of Dun-
barnie, Perthshire, at the point where the high road
from Edinburgh to Perth crosses the Earn. It is so
called from a bridge over the Earn, which appears to
have existed here from the most remote antiquity.
The village itself is completely modern, — having
existed for little more than 50 years. It owes its
origin and increase to the vicinity of the mineral
well of Pitcaithly. The houses are principally new,
and most of them are let out as lodgings to visiters
in the summer season. The parish-church of Dun-
barnie is situated a little to the west of the town.
The ancient bridge has now almost entirely disap-
peared; and the river is crossed by an admirable
new erection of three arches. Bridge-of-Earn is
about 4 miles south-east of Perth.
EARN- WATER. See Eaglesham.
E ARS AY, or Jors a (Lake), a considerable moun-
tain tarn, in the parish of Kilmorie, in the island of
Arran. It contains trout and salmon, and discharges
its waters by a stream of the same name.
EASDALE, or Eisdale, a small island of the
Hebrides, annexed to the parish of Killbrandon,
Argyleshire. It is nearly circular ; about 1£ mile in
diameter ; and is celebrated for its slate-quarries.
The slate occupies the whole island, and is traversed
at many places with basaltic veins, and thin layers
of quartoze and calcareous stones. It lias been
quarried here upwards of 1 50 years, and of late has
been wrought to a great extent. The number of
workmen employed in 1795 was about 300; and the
number of slates sold in that vear was 5,000,000, at
25s. per 1,000. They now fetch in Glasgow .£3 per
1,000 of the largest size, and 45s. for the smaller
size. The constant demand for the Easdale slate
has caused the surface to be cut very low, except at
the south end ; and as the greater part is now on a
level with the sea, it is now wrought at a consider-
ably greater expense, machinery being necessary to
pump out the water. It is supposed that slate of
the same quality would be found in the neighbour-
ing islands of Luing and Seil.
EASSIE. See Essie.
EAST-WATER. See North Esk.
EASTWOOD, or Pollock,* a parish on the east
side of Renfrewshire ; surrounded by the parishes of
Cathcart, Mearns, Neilston, Paisley, and Govan.
Its greatest length from north to south is about 4
miles, and its greatest breadth from east to west is
about 3 miles ; but the form of this parish is so irreg-
ular, that its dimensions in different quarters greatly
vary. On the north side it approaches within .3
miles of the city of Glasgow. The soil is in some
parts light, in others heavy, — but excepting a tract
on the south side, which is tilly and barren, it is in
general fertile. The surface has a beautiful and pic-
turesque appearance, being diversified with little
hills rejoicing on every side, with valleys, natural
woods, plantations, and winding streams. The whole
parish — except what is built upon, or occupied with
wood — consists of arable laud. The river White
Cart traverses it from east to west. There are two
smaller streams, — Auldhouse-burn and Brock-burn.
The minerals wrought are sandstone, limestone,
ironstone, and coal. The chief branches of trade
are cotton-spinning, weaving, bleaching, and calico-
printing. Pollockshaws, a burgh-of-barony, and
Thornliebank, a large village, are in this parish ;
see Pollockshaws and Thornliebank. — The
greater part of the parish of Eastwood belongs to
the family of Maxwell of Nether-Pollock, which has
been seated here since the end of the l-3th century.
In 1682 a baronetcy was conferred on John Maxwell
of Nether-Pollock, afterwards Lord-justice-clerk.
Mr. Ramsay, in a work already quoted, says, " The
house of Nether-Pollock, a large and handsome
structure of four stories, is situate on the right bank
of the White Cart, amidst highly embellished plea-
sure-grounds and beautiful plantations. The build-
ing was completed in 1753 by the grandfather of
the present proprietor, a few weeks before his death.
The castle — which had been previously occupied by
the family — was demolished about the same time : it
stood on the site of the offices attached to the pre-
sent mansion. Upon an eminence about 300 yards
to the eastward of the house, there stood a still
older castle, — the remains of the drawbridge and
fosse belonging to which were in existence in Craw-
ford's time (1710). A remnant of the woods, which
in ancient times covered the ground in this quarter,
was some years ago found imbedded in the river at
Nether- Pollock. This was the trunk of a large
oak, which, having been with difficulty dislodged,
* The parish of Eastwood was anciently called Pol look, which
may be derived from the Gaelic, poling, 'a little pool.' About
the years 1163-5, the church of Pullnuk, with its pertinents,
was granted by Peter of Pollock to the recently founded mo-
nastery of Paisley ; and to it the church continued to belong
till the Reformation. In the 141 li century the church and par-
ish came to be called by the name of Eastwood, which is obvi-
ously derived from an extensive wood which formerly existed
hei'Bj and which was only recently wholly extirpated!
EAS
426
ECC
was found to measure 20 feet in circumference. It
was set up in the pleasure-ground, where it may
still be seen scooped out in such a manner as to form
a summer-house. On the bank of the river at this
place there stands a graceful group of wych-elms, of
which an etching and an" account were given in Mr.
Strutt's ' Sylva Britannica,' published in 1826, — a
splendid work, the portion of which that relates to
Scotland was dedicated to Mr. Maxwell, younger of
Pollock. The principal tree in this group is of
extraordinary health and vigour. It was lately
measured for Mr. Loudon's work on Trees, and was
found to be 90 feet bigh, the diameter of the trunk
being nearly 4 feet at 5 feet from the ground." —
The lands of Darnley in this parish belonged for
ages to a branch of the house of Stewart. Sir John
Stewart of Darnley was ennobled in the 15th cen-
tury,— first as Lord Darnley, and afterwards as Earl
of Lennox. From this place, then, the family de-
rived its second title, which makes so conspicuous a
figure in Scottish history, as having been held by
the unfortunate husband of Queen Mary. The name
also occurred in the war-cry of the family, which was
' Avant, Darnle!' In 1571, when Dumbarton castle
was surprised and taken by the friends of the mur-
dered prince, under the command of Crawford of
Jordanhill, their watch-word was, ' A Darnley, a
Darnley !' which, as Mr. Tytler the historian re-
marks, had been given by Crawford, " evidently
from affection for his unfortunate master, the late
king." In the beginning of the ISth century, the
Duke of Lennox and Richmond sold his estates in
Scotland, including Darnley, to the Duke of Mon-
trose. . About the year 1757, Darnley was purchased
by Sir John Maxwell of Nether- Pollock, in which
family it has since continued. It is singular that two
ministers of this parish, — namely, Matthew Craw-
ford, who died in 1700, and Robert Wodrow, who
died in 1734, have written Histories of the Church
of Scotland. Wodrow's is universally known ; —
Crawford's remains in manuscript. Besides his
worth as a minister, Wodrow was a man of extraor-
dinary industry ; and to him we are indebted, in ad-
dition to his great work, for much valuable informa-
tion bearing on Scottish history and biography. He
was among the first who attended to natural history
in this country. George Crawford, in his ' History
of Renfrewshire,' says, — ." South of Nether-Pollock,
stand the house and lands of Auldhouse, situate upon
a rivulet of the same denomination, where there are
found a great many fossil shells, collected by the
Rev. Mr. Robert Wodrow, minister of the gospel at
Eastwood, (my very worthy friend,) a gentleman
well seen in the curious natural products of the
country." — As having been connected with this par-
ish, we may also mention Stevenson MacGill, D. D.,
professor of divinity in the university of Glasgow,
who died in 1840. He was clerical incumbent here
from 1791 to 1797. — Population of the parish, in-
cluding Pollockshaws and Thornliebank, in 1801,
3,375| in 1831, 6,854. Houses, in 1831, 571. As-
sessed property, in 1815, ±'10,076 This parish is
in the presbytery of Paisley, and synod of Glasgow
and Ayr. Patron, Sir John Maxwell, Bart. The
parish-church was built in 1781 ; sittings 750. In
the front wall of the manse, which was rebuilt about
the same time, there is a stone with this inscription :
' Ecclesiam Dei construendam me Thomas Jackeus
curavit, 1577." Apparently this stone had originally
belonged to the church. Stipend £267 18s. 4d. ;
glebe £13 0s. 4d. Unappropriated teinds £78 18s.
5d A church of the Associate synod was estab-
lished at Pollockshaws in 1800; sittings 638; minis-
ter's stipend £120, with a manse. The Secession
has also a preaching station at Thornliebank. The
Original Seceders also have a church at Pollockshaws,
built in 1764; sittings 770; stipend £125, with a
manse and garden. — There are about 700 Catholics
in the parish, who, when they attend public worship,
go to Glasgow Schoolmaster's salary £34, with
£36 school-fees, and £10 of other emoluments.
EBUDiE. See Hebrides.
ECCLES,* a parish in the district of Merse, on
the southern verge of Berwickshire. It is bounded
on the north by Fogo ; on the east by Swinton and
Coldstream ; on the south by the Tweed, which
divides it from England and Roxburghshire ; on the
south-west by Roxburghshire and Hume; and on the
west by Hume and Greenlaw. It has a somewhat
pentagonal form, but with a ragged, and, in three
places, an indented outline. From an angle above East
Printonian on the north, to a bend in the Tweed
opposite Loughton house on the south, it measure*
very nearly 6 miles ; and from the extremity of a
lochlet on the eastern boundary to an angle beyond
Kennetsideheads on the west, it measures 54 miles ;
yet in superficial area it does not contain more than
17J square miles. The surface, excepting some
unimportant ridges which are just sufficient to re-
lieve the scene from monotony, is a continued plain ;
and, over both rising-ground and level, is all so richly
cultivated, fenced, and sheltered with wood, that
scarcely an acre is waste or unattractive. The pre-
vailing soil is clay mixed with sand, very fertile, and
periodically laden with luxuriant crops. Towards
the south the soil inclines to gravel ; and, on several
farms, it is a very rich loam. Agricultural improve-
ment was early introduced to the parish and vigor-
ously prosecuted ; and, aided by the best natural and
local appliances, has earned an abundant compensa-
tion. No parish in Scotland, probably, is more dis-
tinguished for exuberant crops of wheat, barley,
oats, and other produce. So far back as half-a-
century ago the farmers had become opulent, and
almost luxurious, living in a style very different from
that of their fathers. The Tweed, over a distance
of 3 miles, rolls along the boundary ; and, though
not wearing here any of its dresses of romance and
magnificence, it has not ceased to be pleasing and
beautiful. The Leet for 2 miles forms the boun-
dary-line on the east, and is joined in its progress
by a brook of 8 miles course, which comes down
upon Eccles from the west, forms for a while its
boundary with Greenlaw, and then runs across its
whole breadth from west to east. The cbmate,
owing to the lowness and flatness of the situation, is
not the most salubrious ; and lays the population
open to epidemics and diseases of debility. At
Deadriggs, about a mile north-west of the village of
Eccles, is a sandstone cross or monument, 14 feet
high, with some curious sculpturings, and apparently
of high antiquity, but of unascertained origin or
object. Near Leet water is Leetholm peel, the
ruin of an ancient stronghold of the border-reavers.
Karnes, in this parish, was the birth-place of the dis-
tinguished judge and philosopher, Henry Home, and
gave him the judicial title, by which he is better
known, of Lord Kames. Eccles is traversed along
the banks of the Tweed by the great road between
Carlisle and Berwick by way of Coldstream ; is in-
tersected north-eastward near through its middle by
the north road from Kelso to Berwick ; and, besides
* Tltis name is evidence of a remote affinity which lias not
till a very recent date been allowed to .subsist, but which more
than one living writer has shown to be Somewhat extensive,
between the Celtic languages and those of the Greek and Latin
stock. ' Eccles' would, at hrst sight, he viewed by most per-
sons as certainly derived from the Greek Ecc/esiti, a church ;
white, with far more likelihood, it was really derived from the
British Eglys, or the Gaelic Eaglis, both of which also mean
' church.'
ECC
.427
ECK
being supplied with various cross-roads, is traversed
also from east to west by a line which cuts it into
two nearly equal parts. There are in the parish 3
villages,— Eccles and Leetholm on the north road
between Kelso and Berwick, and Birgham on the
road along the Tweed, but the first is inconsiderable,
and the second and third, which contain respectively
about 350 and 300 inhabitants, are noticed in separate
articles : see Leetholm and Birgham. Popula-
tion, in 1801, 1,682; in 1831, 1,885. Houses 392.
Assessed property, in 1815, .£19,557 Eccles is in
the presbytery of Dunse, and synod of Merse and
Teviotdale. Patron, the Crown. Stipend £245
19s. lOd. ; glebe 20 acres, with a manse. Unap-
propriated teinds £819 8s. 4d. Schoolmaster's salary
£34, with £18 school-fees. There are 2 non-par-
ochial schools in the parish, one at Leetholm and
the other at Brigham. The parish-church, situated
at the village of Eccles, has a neat spire and pleasing
appearance. Sittings 1,000. At the village of
Leetholm is a place of worship belonging to the
Relief. The church of Eccles was dedicated origi-
nally to St. Cuthbert, and afterwards to St. Andrew;
and it was annexed, in 1156, by the Earl of Dunbar,
to a convent which he founded in the parish, of Cis-
tercian nuns. There were anciently 3 chapels, — one
at Brigham, one at Leetholm, and one at the ham-
let of Mersington ; and they also were annexed to
the convent, and, along with the parish-church, con-
tinued to be connected with it till the Reformation.
The nunnery stood in the neighbourhood of the
mansion of Eccles, and appears to have occupied an
area of six acres. The only remains of it are part
of a wall and 2 vaulted cells. The convent, like
other religious houses on the border, did homage to
Edward III., after his capture of Berwick. In 1523
it gave a few hours lodging to the Duke of Albany,
when retreating from Wark castle. In 1545 it was
destroyed in the course of the devastating excursion
of the Earl of Hertford ; and in 1 569 it was formally,
as to its property, erected by Queen Mary into a
temporal lordship for George Hume, who became
Earl of Dunbar.
ECCLESCRAIG. See St. Cybus.
ECCLESFECHAN, a prosperous village in the
parish of Hoddam, Annandale, Dumfries-shire. It
stands 16 miles east of Dumfries, on the great mail-
road from London to Glasgow. A general monthly
market is held here ; and also a weekly market,
during winter, for the sale of pork. The chief sup-
port of the village is the manufacture of ginghams.
There are carriers once a fortnight to Edinburgh,
and periodically or occasionally to Dumfries, Carlisle,
Annan, and other towns. Here are a meeting-house
of the United Secession, 3 schools, a public reading-
room, and 4 inns.
ECCLESIAMAGIRDLE. See Dron.
ECCLESMACHAN,* a parish consisting of two
detached and nearly equal parts, both in Linlithgow-
shire, the one near the centre of the county, and the
other somewhat to the north-east. The south-
western part is bounded on the north by Linlith-
gow; on the east by Uphall ; on the south by Up-
hall and Livingston ; and on the south-west and
west by Bathgate. It is of an oblong figure ; and
in its greatest length measures 2| miles, and in its
greatest breadth H. The north-eastern part lying
at the nearest point a mile apart from the other, is
bounded on the north by Abercorn and the Auld-
cathie portion of Dalmenie ; on the east by Kirk-
liston ; on the south by Uphall ; and on the west by
Linlithgow. It is of irregular outline, and measures
about 1 J mile in length, and, over half that length,
* The Dime is derived from the circumstance that the church
was anciently dedicated to St. M;ichan.
li in breadth, but over the other half only 3. Ex-
cept the south-western section of the south-western
part, where the low hills of Bathgate begin to rise,
the whole parish is a flat corn country, producing in
abundance all sorts of grain raised in West Lothian.
Coal seems to stretch athwart all its extent. Excel-
lent freestone also abounds. Near the manse is a
mineral spring, called- the Bullion- well, having the
same properties as the mineral springs of Moffat.
The north-eastern division is intersected a small way
by the mail-road from Edinburgh to Falkirk ; and all
parts of the parish are advantageously situated as to
means of communication. Population, in 1801, 303 ;
in 1831. 299. Houses 53. Ass^sed property, in
1815, £3,051 Ecclesmachan, formerly a rectory, is
in the presbytery of Linlithgow, and synod of Lo-
thian and Tweeddale. Patron, the Earl of Hopeton.
Stipend £256 lis. 8d; glebe £15. Unappropriated
teinds £140 lis. Id. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s.
4id., with £21 5s. 3d. school-fees.
ECHT, a parish in the Kincardine O'Neil district
of Aberdeenshire, bounded on the north by the par-
ishes of Cluny and Skene ; on the east by Skene and
Peterculter ; on the south by Drumoak parish and
part of Kincardineshire; and on the west by the
parish of Midmar. Its form is nearly square, mea-
suring ii, miles from east to west and from north to
south, and containing about 11,000 acres. Houses
199. Assessed property, in 1815, £2.170. Popula-
tion, in 1801, 972-932; in 1831, 1,030. Though
this is a hilly district, few of the hills are of great
height, and many of them are under tillage to the
very summit. The soil is partly clay and partly
light sand, and in general it is highly improved. The
loch of Skene is in the north -eastern boundary of the
parish, which is encircled on the north, east, and
south with burns which unite and fall into the Dee
opposite Maryculter church. The How of Echt is
a valley in the centre of the parish, where the air is
very mild and salubrious. Housedale is an elegant seat
surrounded with extensive and thriving plantations.
On the top of the Barmekin, one of the highest hills,
is an ancient circular fortification concerning which
tradition is silent. Here are also several cairns and
druidical edifices This parish is in the synod of
Aberdeen, and presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil.
Patron, the Earl of Fife. Stipend £182 16s. 8d. ;
glebe £10. — Schoolmaster's salary £29, with £22
15s. lO.Td. fees and other emoluments. There are 2
private schools in the parish.
ECK (Loch), a fresh water lake in Argyleshire,
about 6 miles in length, and scarcely half-a-mile
broad, yet from 60 to 70 fathoms in depth. It lies
in the centre of Cowal, where that peninsula is nar-
rowed by the approach of the upper parts of Loch-
Long and Loch-Fyne to each other. The principal
supply of water it receives is from the Cur: which
see. From its southern or lower extremity flows
the Eachaig, which, after a short course of about 2
miles, falls into the Holy-Loch, near Kilmun. To
the scenery around Loch-Eck the epithet of beauti-
ful may, with much propriety, be applied. The
mountains are not so lofty as in some other districts
of the country; but they are all finely formed, and
present a graceful and varied outline. Many ot
them are green to the top, and slope gently down
towards the lake, while others are more precipitous
and rocky; but throughout the whole their aspect
is singularly pleasant and interesting. There are
no extensive woods near this lake ; but its shores,
particularly on the east side, are delightfully fringed
with trees and copse. The road from Ardinteuny
to Strachur is carried for some miles along this side
of the lake, and presents to the traveller a most
agreeable succession of landscapes. The scenery of
ECK
428
EDA
Loch-Eck, however, is now mostly seen from the
water, as a small iron steam-boat has plied upon it
for some years. The sail is pleasant throughout ;
and many strangers prefer this route — which is also
much shorter than that by the Kyles of Bute — in
going to Invcrary.* — -Near the head of Loch-Eck is
u little round hill called Tom-a-Choracliasich, or 'the
hill of Chorachasich.' The tradition with regard to
this mount is, that a prince of Norway, or Denmark,
having been defeated by the natives, was pursued,
overtaken, and killed at this place, where his grave
is pointed out. He is said, of course, to have been
of gigantic stature, and is still called in Gaelic, An
(lorrachasach mhor, mac High Lochlan, 'the great
Corrachasach, son to the King of Denmark.' An-
other tradition says that a battle was fought with
the Norwegians, in a field near the head of Glen-
Finnart, and within a short distance of Loch-Eck,
where the Norwegians were defeated with great
slaughter. The field is still called ' the Field of
Shells,' from the number of drinking-shells belonging
to the slaughtered Norwegians said to have been
found on it after the battle. This tradition, in all
probability, alludes to an incursion made up Glen-
Finnart by some Norwegians, from that part of
Haco's fleet which sailed up Loch-Long at the time
he invaded Scotland in 1262; an invasion that ter-
minated with the battle of Largs.
ECKFORD,f a parish in the vale of the Teviot,
Roxburghshire. It is of nearly triangular form,
having its angles to the north, south and west; and
is bounded ou the east by Sprouston, Linton, More-
battle, and Hownam ; on the south-west by Jedburgh
and Crailing; and on the north-west by Roxburgh
and Kelso. From its southern to its northern angle
it measures 6i miles, and from its western angle to
Hatt ik. A small part of it lies on the west of the
Teviot; the main body is intersected westward, and
divided into nearly equal parts, by the Kail; and a
rill, which rises in Sprouston parish, forms, till flow-
ing into the Kail, its eastern boundary-line. The
parish has throughout an undulating surface, and
rises gradually toward the south. Its heights are,
in general, only knolls ; but, in the instances of
Woodenhill in the south, and Cavertonhill in the
centre, are noticeable eminences. Cavertonhill com-
mands a far and minute view of the picturesque vale
of the Teviot, and the interesting vale of the Teviot
with the fine, though sombre, background of the Bor-
der range of mountains. Within the parish itself the
Kail ploughs its impetuous way between bold, ro-
mantic, and well-wooded banks. Plantation is so
abundant as to afford the district ample shelter, and
add abundantly to its decoration. The soil, on the
low grounds in the west, is a light loam, and on the
higher grounds toward the south is clayey; but, in
different parts of the parish, and even on the same
farm, is various, though, in general, richly produc-
tive. The parish, situated as it is within a few
miles of the Border, was laid waste, in former times,
by many feuds and forays; and it had several towers
or strongholds, particularly those of Eckford, Ormis-
ton, Woodenhill, the Moss, and Cessford. The last,
even from the appearance of its ruins, may be con-
* A steam-boat carries the tourist from Glasgow or Greenock
to K'hn mi ; from thence, by an excellent road, they walk, or
take a coach provided lor tbe purpose, to Loch-Eck, where the
steam-boat on that lake is waiting for them ; from the bead of
tbe lake, where tbey leave the second steam-boat, a coach con-
veys them to the village of Straehur, on the hanks of Loch-
Fyne, where a third steam-boat is ready to carry them across
that loch to Iuverary. In this route the visiter is not more
delighted with the variety of scenery he passes, than pleased
with the continued change of conveyance.
i The name is derived from a passage of the river Teviot,
called the Oakford. The Aec, ' ouercus,' is still pronounced
Aikor Ec, in the names of many places where the oak formerly
flourished.
jectured to have been a place of considerable import-
ance; and, in a letter to Henry VIII., it was repre-
sented by the Earl of Surrey, after he had vainly
attempted to carry it by storm, and had obtained
possession of it by capitulation, as being the strong-
est fastness in Scotland except Fast castle and Dun-
bar castle. Cessford castle was the original patri-
monial property of the dukes of Roxburgh. Here,
according to Wodrow, Henry Hall of Haughhead and
other Covenanters were incarcerated in 1666 : see
Cessford. On the form of Hospital-land a tumu-
lus was opened, and there were found two earthen
pots containing fragments and dust of human bones.
The parish is traversed a short way, from north
to south, by the great road from Berwick to
Carlisle ; and, in the same or other directions, by
7 subsidiary or cross-roads. There are two stone-
bridges over the Kail, and a beautiful suspen-
sion-bridge, 16 feet broad and 180 long, over the
Teviot. There are three villages — Eckford, on the
right bank of the Teviot, on the principal intersect-
ing road ; Cessford, in the south-east of the parish ;
and Caverton, in the north-east. Population of the
parish, in 1801, 973; in 1831, 1,148. Houses 221.
Assessed property, in 1815, .£8,648. — Eckford is in
the parish of Jedburgh, and synod of Merse and
Teviotdale. Patron, the Crown. Stipend £219
14s. 7d., with 42 lbs. of cheese as vicarage teinds;
glebe £12 5s. Unappropriated teinds £1,254 0s.
lOd. The parish-church was built in 1662. Sittings
about 300. Eckford was formerly a vicarage of the
monks of Jedburgh. Anciently, at Caverton, stood
a chapel, the cemetery of which still exists. In
1554, the parish-church of the period was burnt by
the English. — There are 4 schools, 2 of which are
parochial, and 1 a boarding-school. The salaries of
the parish-schoolmasters amount to £51 6s. 6Jd.,
with £36 school-fees.
ED AY, one of the Orkney isles, between Westray
and Stronsay, from the latter of which it is separated
by a sound 3 miles across at the ferry. It is about
6i miles long, and 2i broad. It consists chiefly of hills
of a moderate height, affording excellent pasture.
Near the middle it is indented by the sea on both
sides, so as to leave only a narrow isthmus connecting
the two ends. It possesses two good harbours or
roadsteds, each sheltered by a small islet, where ves-
sels of any burden may ride in safety. To the north-
east, and at a short distance, lies a large holm named
the Calf, which is distinguished for its fine turf and
sheep-pasture; and between this and the island of
Eday is an arm of the sea that opens both to the north
and south, forming the noble harbour of Calf sound.
Another harbour, but not of equal excellence, lies
towards the west, called Fiers-Ness. In both of
these ships may find very safe anchorage, especially
in Calf sound.. — Eday belonged in the 17th century
to Lord Kinclaven, who built a house here, and
erected salt-pans which were worked with equal
spirit and success during the lifetime of their patron.
This nobleman — who was brother of Patrick Stew-
art, Earl of Orkney — had been by Charles I. created
Earl of Carrick, which name he conferred on a vil-
lage near the harbour of Calf sound, and which was
through his influence erected into a burgh-of-barony :
but, as he died without lawful issue, the title became
extinct, the house crumbled down, and the village
sunk into obscurity. In 1725 the pirate Gow, trust-
ing to the defenceless state of the country, entered
this harbour ; but one of the proprietors, then resid-
ing in the house of Carrick, supported by his equally
intrepid neighbours, seized the pirate, his crew, and
his ship, and thus promptly freed the world of one
who had been for a long time a pest to society. —
The Read-head, which forms one of the sides of the
EDDERACHYLIS.
429
harbour, contain? an excellent freestone quarry,
which, it has been supposed, notwithstanding the
distance, furnished stones for the cathedral of St.
Magnus in Kirkwall. — Here is a Standing stone, of
about 16 feet in height, called the Great stone of
Seter, similar to those which are observed in the
other islands : there are also the remains of several
Picts' houses ; and a number of tumuli The dis-
trict of Eday comprehends the isle of Faray, with
about 62 families, the holm of Faray, Little Green
Holm, Muckle Green Holm, Red Holm, Rusk Holm,
and the Calf of Eday. Population, in 1S01, 718;
in!831, 961 This island is in the parish of Strox-
siT and Eday: see that article. The church was
built in 1815; sittings 300. It is now supplied by
a missionary on the Royal bounty. Previous to
the appointment of the missionary, in 1834, the
parish-minister preached three successive Sundays
in Stronsay, and the fourth in Eday. Salary of
missionary .£50, with a manse In 1831 a United
Secession chapel was erected here; sittings 308.
EDDERACHYLIS,* or Eddrachuxis, a parish
in the county of Sutherland, extending 16 miles in
length, and about 10 in breadth. It is bounded on the
west by the Mineh ; on the north by Durness ; on the
east by Durness, Tongue, Fair, and Lairg; and on the
south by Assynt. It is intersected — as noticed in
the note below — by several kyles, or arms of the
sea, which afford good harbours for small vessels :
see articles Laxford and Ixchard. The face of
the country is very mountainous and rocky, and the
more inland part — which constituted part of Lord
Reay's deer forest — presents a vast group of rugged
mountains, their summits enveloped in clouds, and
divided from one another by deep and narrow glens,
whose declivities are so rugged and steep as to be
dangerous to travellers unfurnished with guides.
There are a number of lakes in the parish, of which
Loch Moir and Loch Stack are the chief; and a
few small rivers. Several islands, on the coast,
afford pasture to considerable numbers of sheep,
but that of Handa only is inhabited: see Haxda.
Population, in 1801, 1,253; in 1831, 1.965. Houses
276. Assessed property, in 1815, £1,4S9. Rental,
in 1796, £230. — This parish is in the presbytery of
Tongue, and synod of Sutherland and Caithness.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend £158 6s. 8d. ; glebe
£20. Sittings in church 275 The church of Krx-
loch-Bervie [which see] is distant about 6 miles
from Edderachylis church Schoolmaster's salary
* The name of tins parish sienifies, ' Between two Kyles or
Arms of the Sea;' because of its lying between Caolis-Ciiiu, or
Kyle-Score, which divides it »u the south from Assynt, and
Caolis-Iiiiissard, which separates Edderachylis Proper, on the
north, from the di-trictof Ashir. Caolis-Cuin signifies 'The
Narrow kyle ;' and is so called because of a narrow part about
the middle of it, near Island Ranuoch, where there is a ferry
which is not above GO yards broad, though it widens greatly
above, and branches out into two considerable kyles. It is
also broad below th;s place, and encloses a green island, called
Stirk's island, near which is good anchoring ground for ship-
p nsr. This kyle runs up into the country 5 or 6 miles. Caolis-
Luissard,— or, as it is commonly pronounced, Laxford,~is a
name compounded of the two Celtic words, Lua and Ard, epi-
thets given to it, and to the river which runs into the head of
it Iroin Loch Stack, from the rapid and high course of that
stream. But, though these two kyles comprehend the country
called Edderachylis Proper, the parish extends a great way
farther north, and includes also the davoch or district of Asliir,
which is a territory of itself, and was erected into a quoad
sacra parish called Kinloeb-Bervie, in 1S'29. This district also
is intersected by a considerable kyle called Caolis-Iuchard,
which separates that very rugged piece of ground called Keriu
Garbh or ' the Rugged quarter,' from the northern pHrts of
Ashir. which are the best portions of it. Inchard is a contrac-
tion of the two Celtic words, Innis and Aird, signifying 'the
High Meadow,' because of the high and rich pasture-grounds
lying on each side of the kyle, and of the river which runs into
the head of it, and which both go by the same name. As for the
word Athir — which the natives term iu English Alshires, and
sometimes more improperly Oldshoars — its proper form is
Tir-Fa*. It was of old the Fair.Hir, or ' Waste pasture-
ground,' belonging to tke inhabitants of Durnes-s.
£34 5s. There is a private Gaelic school ; and a
catechist for the parish.
" Who the earliest inhabitants of Edderachylis
have been," says the w-riter of the Old Statistical
Account of this parish, " is not now easily discover-
able. After the most diligent inquiry among the
oldest and most intelligent people, aU that can be
learned is, that two or three centuries ago this place
was but thinly inhabited; and, that the inhabitants
held their possessions by no legal tenure, paid no
rent, and acknowledged no landlord or superior.
The first who are said to have held it in property
were M'Leods, a branch of the Lewis family, or Siol
Torquil; but prior to their establishment as proprie-
tors, tradition reports that in the time of the Nor-
wegian kingdom of the Western isles, these islanders
made frequent descents upon the coast, arid some-
times not without bloodshed, while they attempted
plundering the few inhabitants of their cattle, and
carrying them off in their boats. The last of the
M'Leod family, who died the acknowledged proprie-
tor of Edderachylis, and seems not to have been of
the family of Assynt, was called Mache a Leister;
probably on account of the first or principal man of
the tribe being remarkable for skill in making arrows,
for Mache a Leister is, literally, ' the Son of the
arrowmaker.' He having no children by his wife,
brought over from Assynt a nephew of his wife called
James, the son of Roderick, to live in family with
him, and succeed him in possession of the estate at
his death; which accordingly happened. But he,
being of a turbulent and factious disposition, had
quarrels with several of his neighbours, particularly
the Morisons of Durness and Ashir, some of whom
he put to death. The laird of Farr also, Sir Hugh
M'Kay, having occasion to remit a sum of money to
Edinburgh, the bearer of it next day.returned to him,
after being robbed only one day's journey from his
house, by a party of armed men having their faces
disguised with black paint, whom every one supposed
to have been sent upon that enterprise by James
M'Leod of Edderachylis. As the Morisons of them-
selves were not able to bring James to task for the
injuries done themselves, they contrived a plan for
it, by bringing the M'Kays to their assistance. The
principal man of the name of Morison at that time
in Ashir, had in his house and family, a bastard son
of the laird of Farr's, Donald M'Kay : him he pro-
posed both to the M'Kays and to his own friends,
to be laird of Edderachylis, if by their joint efforts
James M'Leod was made away with. All agreeing
to this proposal, the plan for effecting it was to
engage a cousin of James M'Leod's, one Donald
M'Leod, to take away his life. This business he
was reckoned the likeliest and fittest to perform,
being a notorious ruffian, and, in order to hinder
James's friends from prosecuting revenge, afterwards
when the deed should be perpetrated by one of them-
selves. The reward promised Donald induced him
readily to undertake it, which was, that he should
have the half of Edderachylis for himself, and his
offspring ; and that the mother of this Donald M'Kay,
the bastard, should become his wife. Hereupon, a
party of the Morisons from Ashir, headed by Donald
M'Kay the bastard, and Donald M'Leod — who among
other qualifications, was incomparably skilled in
handling the long bow — marched in a dark morning
for Edderachylis, though not directly towards Scoury
where James M'Leod lived, but to some other places
nearer them, where James's best friends, and ablest
supporters dwelt, in order to despatch them first ;
which having done, and three or four men, whom
they surprised in their beds in their several dwell-
ings, cruelly slain, they proceeded to Scoury; where,
after slaying two or three more of the M'Leods, they
EDD
430
EDD
found James, upon getting some notice of tlieir ap-
proach, had taken shelter in a small house he had
sometime before built in the middle of a lake in
Scoury. But with arrows having fire bound to
them, this house being thatched with straw or reeds
was soon made to blaze, when he was obliged to
come out ; whereupon Donald, his cousin-german,
killed him dead with a musket-bullet. And as
James had a son of his along with him in this island,
Donald did for him also ; for after he had swam to
the farther side of the lake, and endeavoured to run
for his life, he slew him with an arrow from his long
bow. James M'Leod, or M'Rory, being in this
manner slain, Donald thought himself sure of pos-
sessing at least half of Edderachylis, according to
agreement, but here he found himself mistaken.
The Morisons now told him, he must be content
with some other reward, for that Donald M'Kay
must have all Edderachylis : whereupon Donald in
a rage declared that would not do; and immediately
betaking himself to his friends in Assint, in a short
time returned with a body of men to take possession.
But the Morisons, aware of his motions, prepared to
meet and fight him upon his first entering the coun-
try. Both parties were ready for an engagement in
a place called Maldy, when Sir Hugh M'Kay of Far
presented himself to them, upon the top of a hill
hard by, with 300 men, and finding how matters
stood, immediately called both before him to a con-
ference in order to an accommodation, which none
of them durst refuse. At this interview Sir Hugh
proposed to Donald M'Leod, that he should resign
his pretensions to Edderachylis in favour of his son
Donald ; and that be himself, in consideration of his
doing so, would grant him other land near himself,
called the davoch of Hope, as also Donald M'Kay's
.mother to be his wife; which proposal he at once
agreeing to, the whole difference ended and peace
and harmony took place. This promise Sir Hugh
actually fulfilled, giving Donald the davoch of Hope,
where he lived to an extreme old age, with a family
of six or sevtn sons, continuing the same ruffian to
the last. He was buried in the kirk of Durness,
where, upon the south wall on the inside of the
building, there is a. monument of his with the initials
of his name, and his arms cut out in the stone, and
the year 1619. What became of the sons cannot
be discovered, but the lands of Hope are in the pos-
session of the Reay family, as a part of their estate.
In this manner came Edderachylis into the hands of
the M'Kays, or that branch of them who call them-
selves the family of Scoury. But of them there
were only three proprietors before it became a part
of the estate of Reay ; the first of these was Donald
already mentioned ; the second his son Hugh ; and the
third his son Hugh, who was the famous Gen. M'Kay,
commander-in-chief of the forces in Scotland under
William III. He was born at Scoury, in this parish,
and as George Lord Reay married his daughter, he
gave him Edderachylis as her tocher. Next as to
Ashir or Fashir, the northern part of this parish,
which — as before observed — was the waste or un-
inhabited parts of Durness ; it, as well as Durness,
as far back as our information goes, was church-
lands ; belonging of old to the bishopric of Caith-
ness; and they were disposed of by one of the Pop-
ish bishops of that see to a Lewis man, one Ay
Morison, son of Norman, who coming by sea for a
cargo of meal to Thurso, near the Episcopal seat,
happened to fall in love with a sister of the bishop's,
and married her, and as her tocher received all Dur-
ness and Ashir, — a good and extensive Highland
estate. What was the name of this country, prior
to this event, cannot now be ascertained by any tra-
ditional account; but Morison at this time gave it
its present name of Durness, from the place of his
nativity, so that it cannot be considered as local or
descriptive; but upon being established in his newly
acquired estate, he brought over with him from
Lewis a colony of no less than sixty families, mostly
of his own name, to whom he gave lands upon his
own property. Hence it is that the name of Mori-
son is so prevalent in these parts; for though the
property be fallen into other hands, the stock of the
inhabitants remains. Some generations after this, it
happened that the descendant lineal of this Ay
Morison died childless, and left a widow, a Suther-
land woman, daughter of one Donald Bain Matheson,
then proprietor of Sheeness. This woman, finding
herself ill-used by her late husband's relations, eloped
in the night, carried with her the rights by which
the Morisons held Durness, went to Dun-robin, the
Earl of Sutherland's seat, and delivered these papers
into his hands. Possessed of these rights only, the
Earl considered himself as entitled to claim Durness
for himself, and consequently had great bickerings
with the Morisons to bring them to pay rent to him ;
but they continuing obstinate and refractory, and
being encouraged in an underhand manner by the
laird of Far and his agents, the Earl at length became
tired of contending with them, and agreed with the
laird of Far, ancestor of Lord Reay, to give Durness
to him for a feu-duty of 60 marks in the year; and
in this manner came the Reay family to be possessed
of this estate, but the feu-duty, though still con-
tinued, is now reduced to a trifle."
EDDERTOWN, or Ederdoun, a parish in the
eastern district of the county of Ross; about 10
miles in length, and 7 in breadth ; washed on the
north by the frith of Tain. The soil is in general
rich and good, but the high hills in the vicinity ren-
der the climate cold and the harvests late. There
are no natural woods, but several hundred acres have
been planted with fir. There are the remains of se-
veral ancient encampments in this district. A num-
ber of rude stones and cairns in the plain of Carri-
blair,* are said to point out the spot where a prince
of Denmark and his followers lie interred. Popu-
lation, in 1801, 899; in 1831, 1,023. Assessed pro-
perty, in 1815, £113. Houses, in 1831, 216 — This
parish is in the presbytery of Tain, and synod of
Ross. Patron, MacKenzie of Cromarty. Stipend
£203 14s. 6d.— Schoolmaster's salary £27 16s.
EDDLESTONE — spelt variously, Eddleston,
Eddlestoun, Edleston, and Edlestown — a parish in
the north of Peebles-shire ; bounded on the north
and north-east by Edinburghshire ; on the east and
south-east by Innerleithen and Peebles ; on the
south-west by Lyne ; and on the west by Newlands.
It is of an oblong form, stretching from north to
south ; but has a considerable projection on the
south-west. Its extreme measurement from the
confluence of Harehope burn and Meldon burn on
the south, to Fernyhole on the north, is 10 miles ;
and from the confluence of two brooks at the base
of Courhope hill on the west, to Burnhead on the
east, is 5A miles. Eddlestone water intersects it
from north to south, and divides it into nearly
equal parts. This stream rises in the extreme north
of the parish, pursues a course due south, receives
on its way 8 or 10 tributary rills from the adjacent
heights ; and after leaving the parish flows direct
toward the core of Peebles, and there, at the burgh,
the capital of the county, falls into the Tweed.
At Cowey's linn, this stream has a fall of 35 feet.
* " Ossian mentions the battle of Carrns in one of the ue-
tached pieces annexed to Fingal, and where he himself com-
manded, and worsted the Danes. Perhaps tliis may have been
the seerie of action, Carriblair. in Gaelic, signifying ' the Battiu
of Garros.' ''—Old Statistical Account.
EDE
431
EDI
Its entire course, which is remarkably straight, does
not exceed between 1 1 and 12 miles. In the eastern
division of the parish, about a mile from the boun-
dary, is Loch Eddlestone, nearly of a circular form,
2 miles in circumference, and abounding- in pike,
eels, and perch. Issuing from this lake is the South
Esk, which pursues a course directly the reverse of
that of Eddlestone water, flowing 3 miles due north-
ward through the parish, and leaving it within about
a mile of the Eddlestone's primary sources. The
entire surface of the parish may be described as an
agglomeration of smooth hills, verdant to their sum-
mits, tame in their general appearance, but at inter-
vals surprising the tourist by sudden disclosures of
picturesque varieties, and romantic cleughs and dells.
Along the eastern boundary, the summits are tower-
ing and Alpine, one of them rising to the height of
2,100 feet above the level of the sea: see Dus-
droich. The vales or basins of the streams are
in general little other than gigantic furrows in the
wide field of hills. On the Cringletie property at
the south of the parish, and especially on the de-
mesne and lands of Portmore, at its centre, are
considerable plantations. The climate is dry and
salubrious. The parish is traversed from south to
north, along the banks of the Eddlestone, by the
united turnpikes from Peebles and Annandale to
Edinburgh; and is otherwise well-provided with
means of communication. The village or hamlet
of Eddlestone stands on the principal road, toward
the south of the parish, 4 miles from Peebles, and
17 from Edinburgh. An annual fair is held here
on the 25th of September. Population of the par-
ish, in 1801, 677 ; in 1831, 836. Houses 144. As-
sessed property, in 1815, £5,645 Eddlestone is in
the presbytery of Peebles, and synod of Lothian
and Tweeddale. Patron, Lord Elibank. Stipend
£249 5s. lid.; glebe £20. Unappropriated teinds
£98 16s. 8d. The parish-church was built in 1829.
Sittings 420. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4id.,
with about £52 other emoluments.
EDEN (The), a river in Fifeshire, which takes its
rise on the borders of Perthshire, in the parish of
Arngask, about 4 miles west of Strathmiglo, and,
taking a course due east, falls into the German
ocean at the Guard-bridge, in the bay of St. An-
drews, nearly 18 miles from its source. It receives
many tributary streams from the Lomond hills, and
passes by the county-town of Cupar. It has a very
level course from Cupar to the sea, and might be
made navigable to this point at no great expense :
see Note to article Cupar-Fife.
EDEN (The), a small river in the district of
Merse. It rises in the parish of Gordon, near
Heckspeth ; and flows first eastward, and then
southward, dividing the parish of Earlston from
the parishes of Hume and Nenthorn. It then
suddenly debouches to the east, and flows through
the parish of Nenthorn, and over a neck of Rox-
burghshire, intersecting in its course the parish of
Ednam, and falls into the Tweed 3^ miles below
Kelso. Its whole course is about 17 or 18 miles.
The lower part of its course is very beautiful,
being through rich and finely- wooded pastoral
scenery,
EDENDON (The), a rivulet which, rising in the
western part of the forest of Athol, among the
heights immediately adjoining Inverness-shire, after
a course of a few miles to the south, falls into the
Garry, a little above the inn of Dalnacardoch.
EDENHAM. See Ednam.
EDENKEILLIE, or Edinkillie, a parish in the
centre of Morayshire, bounded on the north by For-
res ; on the east by Rafford and Dollar ; on the
south by Knockando ; and on the west by Ardclach.
Its greatest length is about 13 miles, and its greatest
breadth about 4. It contains about 65 square miles.
Houses 285. The only place in the parish which
can be called a village is Connicavel, consisting of
26 dwelling-houses. Assessed property, in 1815,
£699. Population, in 1801, 1.223-1,215; in 1831,
1,300. The population is chiefly composed of agri-
cultural labourers, handicrafts-men, Sec. This parish
lies on the right bank of the Findhorn, and is wa-
tered by the Divie, and other streams tributary to
the Findhorn, on which there is a considerable sal-
mon fishing. It is a pastoral and hilly district, but
not mountainous ; the highest hill, the Knock of
Moray, being of small elevation. On the banks of
the Findhorn and the Divie there are some of the
most romantic rural scenes which wood, water,
rocks, and variety of ground can produce. The na-
tural Avoods of the plantations are very extensive.
The ancient forest of Darnaway covers about 900
acres here, with natural wood of almost every kind
indigenous to Scotland. Farther up the river — the
banks of which are in general covered with trees — is
the wood of Dundaff, of considerable extent. These
forests belong to the Earl of Moray. There is also
a good deal of natural wood on the other estates in
the parish. But the plantations are still more
extensive than the natural woods.* Li 1829,
some of the woods and plantations, with the low
grounds, suffered severely from the floods South-
wards, up the Dorback, one of the branches of the
Findhorn, is Lochindorb, in the middle of which is
an island, with the ruins of Lochindorb castle, for-
merly a place of great strength. It was blockaded
by Sir Andrew Moray, the regent, during King
David Bruce's captivity. Edward III. honoured it
in the following year by raising the siege. It was
afterwards used as a state-prison The Downe hill
of Relugas is a conical hill, round a considerable part
of which runs the rapid Divie in a deep rocky chan-
nel. On the summit are the remains of a strong
fortress of antiquity far beyond the period of au-
thentic history. Higher up the river Divie, stands
the castle of Dunphaii., [which see] upon a rock of
singular appearance, surrounded by a deep gully or
narrow glen, formed, probably, by the river, which
seems to have run, at a remote period, in this channel.
Trees have been planted on the summit of the two
latter hills or rocks. The very singular bridge of
Rannich here, is of great antiquity : tradition derives
its name from the illustrious Randolph, Earl of
Moray and regent of Scotland This parish is in the
synod of Moray and presbytery of Forres. Patron,
the Earl of Moray. Stipend £174 8s. 2d. ; glebe
£10. Church built in 1741 ; and last altered in
1813; sittings 500 Schoolmaster's salary £27 16s.,
with £10 fees, and other emoluments. There are
several private schools in the parish.
EDERDOUN. See Eddertoun.
EDGERSTON. See Jedburgh.
EDINAMPLE. See Loch Earx.
* The vacancies of Darnaway forest ivere first planted in
1767 ; and it is stated in the Old Statistical Account, that, from
that year to 1791, notless than 10,01)1,000 trees, principally
Scutch firs, including also oak, ash, elm, sycamore, See., were
planted by the late Earl of Moray, fur the must part, iu thia
parish.
432
EDINBURGH,
The metropolis of Scotland, is romantically situated
on a congeries of hills, in the north of Mid-Lothian,
within 2 miles of the frith of Forth. Its observa-
tory stands in 55° 57' 20", North latitude ; and in
3° '10' 30'', West longitude from Greenwich. The
city is 392 miles distant from London; 57 from Ber-
wick-upon-Tweed ; 17 from Haddington; 47 from
Coldstream ; 42 from Kelso ; 36 from Melrose ; 48
from Jedburgh; 22 from Peebles; 92| from Carlisle;
50 from Hawick; 153J from Portpatrick ; 71 from
Dumfries; 42J from Glasgow, by way of Bathgate;
31 from Lanark; 35-i from Stirling; 44 from Perth;
243 from Inverness; 121 from Aberdeen; and42from
Dundee. — Population, in 1831, 136,054; in 1841,
138,194. The population of the parliamentary burgh,
in 1841, was 140,241. The number of inhabited houses
within the city and suburbs, in 1841, was 22,860 ;
and within the parliamentary boundaries, 23,175.
General Description.
The hills and swelling grounds which partly form
the site of the city, and partly overshadow it, lie
within a circumference of about 6 miles ; and at their
northern termination, about 2 miles from the frith,
rise from a base, which slopes gently away, over a
gradient of from 50 to 100 feet, to the sea. These
hills seem to have been thrown up from a smooth
surface by some sudden and stupendous operation
which cannot easily be conceived; and must have
formed, in their natural state, a grouping of scenery
strikingly peculiar, and remarkably picturesque. The
highest and most easterly is Arthur's Seat, [which
see,] rising 822 feet above the level of the sea, hav-
ing a slope to the east, which goes rollingly down
over a base of nearly a mile, and presenting to the
west a precipitous, nearly perpendicular, and very
varied face of rugged rock. The outline of this
hill, as seen from the west, or a little to the south
of west, undulates so strangely as to bear a close
resemblance to the sculptured figure of a lion couch-
ant : the summit of the hill, or head of the gigantic
sculpture, rising on the south, and the shaggy mane
and reclining body stretching toward the north.
From the deep dell at the western base of Arthur's
Seat, the ground rises regularly over a base of about
700 yards, till it attains a height of 550 feet above
the level of the sea ; and then in a semicircle, sweep-
ing round from the south to the north, breaks per-
pendicularly down, in a picturesque face of naked,
rugged greenstone rock ; and, after an esplanade sev-
eral feet in width — on which a promenade of most
commanding and gorgeous prospect is carried round —
descends in an inclined plane of sandy or earthy sur-
face so rapid as to be traversable only by an adven-
turous and firm-footed tourist : see Salisbury
Crags. These two bills, except in the romantic
path or narrow dell which lies between them, and
which is as sequestered, and as congenial to the
musings of solitude or genius, as the haunt of a poet
in a far-away spot of Highland seclusion, possess no
surface which could ever, without prodigious labour,
be made the site of any suburban extension of the
city. Two hundred yards north-west of the north-
ern end of the Salisbury semicircle, rises the Calton-
hill, lifting a rounded eminence, 344 feet above the
level of the sea, presenting an abrupt and bending
face to the north-west, and descending in other di-
rections by rapid though not untraversable declivi-
ties : see Calton-Hill. This hill — as will after-
wards be seen — bears aloft one or two of Edinburgh's
proudest public structures, and has been compelled
by art to afford place for some rows of her private
though palace-looking buildings; yet it is principally
remarkable, like the loftier and more untameable hills
to the south-east, for the magnificence of the pano-
ramic landscape which a spectator sees from its sum-
mit, and for the contributions of boldness and ro-
mance which it makes to the grouped scenery of the
city. From the hollow along the western base of
Salisbury -crags, the ground rises westward by a
rapid gradient thickly crowded with streets, till, at
the distance of 500 yards, it attains an elevation of
about 150 or 180 feet, forming a broad-backed ridge
of about 1,400 yards from east to west, which falls-
first gently and next acclivitously down on its north-
ern side ; and which, on its southern side, slopes
insensibly away, till, at the distance of a mile, it is
lost in the plain and soft undulations of the country.
Nearly all this extensive rising ground is covered
with buildings, and forms the site of the new or
modern district of the Old Town. Parallel to it,
on the north side, lies a hill — which has been aptly
compared to a long wedge lying flat on the ground — •
which gradually ascends westward from the hollow
between Salisbury-crags and Calton-hill, till, at the
distance of 1 ,800 yards, it towers up in the agglo-
merated rocks of Edinburgh-castle, 445 feet above
the level of the sea, and presents to the west a per-
pendicular, romantic, and far-seen face of naked ba-
saltic rock. The gsrge or deep dell along the south
side of this ridge, !tying between it and the one for-
merly described, is ploughed by an ancient line of
street, once the abode of the elite of the city, but
now the putrid haunt of the poor and the squalid,
and bearing nearly the same relation to Edinburgh
which the district of St. Giles docs to the metropo-
lis of the south. The ridge or wedge-like slope it-
self is the site of the original city,- — a street stretch-
ing along its centre, sending off numerous lanes and
alleys down the brief descents on its southern and
northern sides, and resembling a reptile or scorpion
monster, having the Castle for its head, the lanes for
its lateral members, and Holyrood-house and St.
Abbey Cuthberts for its tail. Along the northern
base of the ridge, extends a deep hollow — formerly
covered with water, but now drained and variously
disposed of by art — about 200 yards in average
breadth. From this hollow, another eminence, or
very gentle and broad-backed ridge, greatly less
marked in its features than any other of the emi-
nences, ascends softly northward over a distance of
250 yards ; and then gracefully, and in an easy gra-
dient, slopes away into the plain which intervenes
between it and the sea. This eminence is of soft
and nearly imperceptible declivity at its western end ;
but on the east it breaks suddenly down, and leaves
a gorge between its own base and that of Calton-
hill. Along this beautiful flat ridge stands the ori-
ginal New Town ; and on its northern, slow de-
scent, as well as on the plains beyond it, both north-
ward and westward, stands the second New Town,
or most magnificent and boasted portion of the me-
tropolis of Scotland.
Most travellers who have visited both cities have
remarked a resemblance, as to site and general ap-
pearance, between Edinburgh and Athens. Stuart,
the author of ' The Antiquities of Athens,' was the
first who vividly depicted it; and he has been fol-
lowed by Dr. Clarke, Mr. H. W. Williams, and so
many other literary painters well-qualiiied to form
a correct judgment, that the names 'Modern Athens,'
and ' the Athens of the North,' have been assigned
EDINBURGH.
433
to Edinburgh by general consent. Mr. Williams
says: " The distant view of Athens from the iEgean
sea is extremely like that of Edinburgh from the
frith of Forth ; though certainly the latter is con-
siderably superior." " There are," he adds, " sev-
eral points of view on the elevated grounds near
Edinburgh, from which the resemblance" between
the two cities " is complete. From Tor-Phin, in
particular, one of the low heads of the Pentlands,
immediately above the village of Colinton, the land-
scape is exactly that of the vicinity of Athens, as
viewed from the bottom of Mount Anchesmus.
Close upon the right, Brilessus is represented by the
mound of Braid ; before us, in the abrupt and dark
mass of the castle, rises the Acropolis ; the hill Ly-
cabetus, joined to that of the Areopagus, appears in
the Calton; in the frith of Forth we behold the
iEgean sea ; in Inch-Keith, jEgina ; and the hills of
the Peloponnesus are precisely those of the opposite
coast of Fife. Nor is the resemblance less striking
in the general characteristics of the scene; for, al-
though we cannot exclaim, ' these are the groves of
the Academy, and that the Sacred Way!' yet, as on
the Attic shore, we certainly here behold —
1 , A country rich Rod gay,
Broke into hills with balmy odours crowned,
Acid joyo'js vales,
Mountains and streams,
And clustering towns, and monuments of fame,
And scenes of glorious deeds, in little bounds!'
It is, indeed, most remarkable and astonishing, that
two cities, placed at such a distance from each other,
and so different in every political and artificial cir-
cumstance, should naturally be so alike. Were the
National monument to be erected upon the site of
the present barracks in the Castle, an important ad-
ditional feature of resemblance would be conferred
upon the landscape; that being the corresponding
position of the Parthenon in the Acropolis." But
when he peers into the interior of the two cities,
that distinguished artist paints the brilliant metro-
polis of Scotland in tints far richer than he dares
bestow upon the ancient capital of Greece. He says :
" The epithets Northern Athens and Modern Athens
have been so frequently applied to Edinburgh, that
the mind unconsciously yields to the illusion awak-
ened by these terms, and imagines that the resem-
blance between these cities must extend from the
natural localities and the public buildings, to the
streets and private edifices. The very reverse of this
is the case ; for, setting aside her public structures,
Athens, even in her best days, could not have coped
with the capital of Scotland. The truth is, that the
comforts of the Athenians were constantly sacrificed
to the public benefit ; and the ruins which still re-
main to attest the unrivalled magnificence of the
temples of Athens, aiford no criterion by which we
may judge of the character of her private dwellings.
Athens, as it now exists, independent of its ruins,
and deprived of the charm of association, is con-
temptible,— its houses are mean, and its streets
scarcely deserve the name. Still, however, ' when
distance lends enchantment to the view,' even the
mud- walls of Athens assume features of importance,
and the modern city appears almost worthy of the
Acropolis which ornaments it. It is when seen under
this advantage that the likeness of Edinburgh to
Athens is most strikingly apparent."
Edinburgh presents, from almost every point
whence it can be viewed, such scenic and archi-
tectural groupings as are unrivalled in any existing
city in the world. It possesses attractions peculiarly
its own, and fixes the gaze and challenges the ad-
miration of a spectator by displays of general excel-
lence, unaided by the sumptuousness of any one
object, and undegraded by deteriorations from its
I.
prevailing style of magnificence. A tourist coming
within view of the city sees no aerial dome rising
from a sea of houses, as in Rome or London ; and no
forest of turrets shooting up from a huge cathedral,
as in Milan or York ; but he looks on a singularly
varied and uniformly rich display of imposing archi-
tecture,— sheltered in the vale, — climbing up the ac-
clivity,— stretching away on the plain, — or surmount-
ing the precipice, and crowning the romantic hill.
Even the picturesque confusion of the ancient part of
the city combines with the symmetrical proportions of
the streets and squares of the modern part, to render
the rich architectural carpeting of the congeries of
hills peculiarly attractive. Nowhere is the eye of-
fended with the vicinity of meanness to elegance, or
with a dingy and common-place field of houses spread
around a magnificent edifice, or attached to an ele-
gant and airy street ; but neatness, beauty, novelty
of grouping, picturesqueness, grandeur, and nearly
all the principles which thrill the beholder with
mingled wonder and pleasure, seem everywhere to
struggle for ascendancy, and, like a harmony of
sounds, combine their powers to produce an unique
and superb effect. Among many admired views of
the city, one from St. Anthony's chapel, another
from Calton-hill, and a third from the new buildings
on the lands of Coates, excite particular attention.
From St. Anthony's chapel a spectator sees at his
feet the tufted and verdant memorials of the royal
park, and the quadrangular and turreted palace of
Holyrood, with the venerable ruins of the royal
chapel abutting from one of its angles ; he looks
over it along the deep hollow on the east of the Old
town, with its thickly-figured carpeting of houses,
till his view is arrested by the North bridge, with its
palace-looking summit of buildings above, stretching
off toward the east, and with its lofty arches below,
occasioning an air of mystery to hang over the scenery
beyond, of which they allow only a narrow view ;
and he looks up on his right to the double ascent of
Calton-hill, overhung on its first precipitous acclivity
by the dark monument of the philosopher Hume, and
the bold and castellated forms of the county-jail and
bridewell, — decorated, on the esplanade at the middle
of its ascent, with the fine Grecian structure of the
Royal High school, and the beautiful sweep of build-
ings called Regent-terrace, — and crowned on its
rounded acclivitous summit with the towering pillar
erected to the memory of Nelson, and the naked, an-
tique-looking colonnade of the National monument;
and he surveys, a little to his left, the whole of the
elaborated surface of the ancient city, struggling
crowdedly upward from the point of the wedge-like
hill, stratum above stratum, or ridge above ridge,
sending aloft in its progress the picturesque towers
of the Canongate and Tron churches, and the high,
broad tower of St. Giles, with its architectural crown,
and terminating in the bold precipitous eminence
and ragged but romantic outline of Edinburgh castle.
— The view from the lands of Coates, though emi-
nently beautiful, atfords less scope for description
The principal features in this picture are the princely
piles of the newest part of the New town on the
foreground, — the tower and turrets of the very hand-
some episcopal chapel of St. John's in the distance, — -
and the rounded, frowning, but sublime face of the
Castle, as it stoops precipitously to the west. From
Calton-hill the prospect is so gorgeous, so grand, so
replete with every thing in either city or sea or
country landscape which can thrill and animate with
delight, that he is a daring artist who attempts to
depict with either quill or pencil the multitudinous
splendours of the scene. We must simply say, in
general, that a spectator walking around the higher
part of the hill, along a path cut out for his accom-
2 E
434
EDINBURGH.
modation, commands in succession a full survey of
most parts of both the Old town and the New, and,
in addition, looks away north, east, south, and west,
over scenery which, even if no queen-city, crowned
and jewelled and opulently arrayed, presided in its
centre, would compete, in the power and variety of
its charms, with nine landscapes in every ten which
poetry has immortalized in song. The noble estuary
of the Forth, reflecting from its mirror-surface the
image of many a smiling town and village and man-
sion which sit joyously on its banks, and bearing
along on its bosom yawl and ship and steam-vessel,
till it glides past the huge rock or high islet of the
Bass, and the dark conical hill of North Berwick
law, and becomes lost in the horizon, — the undu-
lating and verdant country beyond it, receding in
distant loveliness till it is obscured in the shadowy
splendour of the Ochil hills and the Grampians, —
the fertile fields and varied park and woodland scenery
which flaunt gaily along the southern shore of the
frith, — and, close at hand, the solitary grandeur of
Arthur's Seat, and the wild beauty of Salisbury-
crags, with their precipitous descents, their" pastoral
slopes, and their sequestered hollows, — these are
some features, faintly coloured and rudely sketched,
of a landscape which combines in a magnificent ex-
panse, the richest elements of the beautiful and the
sublime, and which are seen over a foreground of
portions of Edinburgh, opulent beyond parallel in
the attractions of city-scenery.
Edinburgh, in proportion to its population, covers
a larger area than almost any other town of Britain.
From the north end of Scotland-street on the north,
to Crosscauseway on the south, it measures geogra-
phically 2,400 yards ; and from Manor-place on the
west, to Montgomery-street on the east, 2,600 yards ;
and these points may indicate the lines of a rectangle,
the area of which, with some unimportant exceptions,
is all covered with town. But on various parts of
this rectangle, especially on the north, on the north-
west, and on the south, the city has wings of con-
siderable extent, which, if included in its measure-
ment, would make its extreme length from north to
south about 4,000 yards; and its extreme breadth
from east to west upwards of 3,000. Considerable
space, however, in the very core of the city, is either
wholly or principally unoccupied with building. The
area of Prince's-street gardens and the Castle rock
alone extends 900 yards from east to west, and be-
tween 200 and 270 from north to south ; and, except-
ing the barracks in the Castle, and the Royal institu-
tion on the Mound, has not a single edifice. The
Queen-street gardens also are an open area, and ex-
tend 850 yards by 130. But we must attempt —
yet without, at present, noticing public buildings or
glancing at minute features — to give a general topo-
graphical view of the arrangements of the city.
The Old Town.
At Abbey St. Cuthbert's, or a small area in front
of Holyrood house, situated in the middle of the
hollow between Salisbury-crags and Calton-hill, is
the eastern termination and lowest part of the old or
original town. Leaving this area at its north-west
angle, the Canongate moves away westward, over a
distance of 650 yards, — climbing on its middle or
highest part the wedge-like ridge or central hill on
which the chief part of the city stands, — and sending
down over the northern face of the hill, New-street,
Leith-wynd, and numerous closes, and over the
southern face, St. John-street, Mary's-wynd, and
various alleys. Continuous with the Canongate, the
High-street climbs the upper part of the hill, — send-
ing down Niddry-street and some lanes to the south, —
undergoing an intersection at right angles by a great
line of street which runs south and north through
the whole extent of the Old town, and ploughing
its way, under the names of Lawn-market and
Castle-street, up to an esplanade or open and ele-
vated area before the gate of the castle, at a distance
of 900 yards from the commencement of the Canon-
gate. In its progress it sends off Bank-street, and
numerous lanes to the north ; and Niddry-street,
Blair-street, George IV. 's bridge, and the West Bow
to the south ; and it opens on its southern side, round
both ends of St. Giles' cathedral, into Parliament-
square. This street, after merging from the lower
or Canongate part, till it bends and narrows into the
brief termination of Castle-street or Castle-hill, is
very spacious ; and, over its entire length, it con-
sists of very high nouses, interspersed with various
public edifices, and wears an antique and remarkably
imposing appearance. From the great height of its
buildings, the varied yet harmonious forms of their
projected gables and battlements, and the long sweep
which they make, interrupted by few transverse
cuts, and marked at intervals by massive, ornamental
architecture of an age long gone by, this street pos-
sesses a simple and majestic unity of antique aspect,
which is probably unparalleled in any city of Britain.
Near its western end, 170 yards before it opens into
the esplanade of the Castle, a spacious street-way
goes off from its south side, suddenly debouches, and
runs on parallel to it at an aerial elevation ; and
passing along the edge of the Castle rock, spans the
yawning hollow below, in an airy and magnificent
erection called King's bridge, and sends off Castle
terrace, nearly parallel to the western face of the
Castle, to open a communication with the south-west
angle of the New town, while it bends round its
main road south-westward and passes into Bread-
street, 800 yards from its commencement near the
top of High-street. This remarkable road-way is
called the New West approach. It passes over a
seeming impracticability of ground, and possesses a
peculiarity of position, from the dark cliffs of the
Castle overhanging it on one side, and an extent of
town stretching away in the plain beneath it on the
other, which give it an appearance of romance pe-
culiarly its own. Bread-street, which it transversely
enters, is one of a large cluster of streets forming an
irregular but fine south-west suburb of the Old town.
The principal streets of the suburb are Lothian-
road, running north and south, parallel with the
western face of the Castle, and forming, with its
north end, a right angle with the west end of Prince's-
street, — Fountain-bridge, running south-west and
north-east, and forming the great thoroughfare to
Biggar and Lanark, — and Gilmore-place, running
parallel to Fountain-bridge, 300 yards to the south.
These three streets are all spacious, and wholly or
partially lined with beautiful new buildings ; and
they are clustered in various directions and by vari-
ous tendrils of communication with Bread-street,
St. Andrew's-place, Castle-barns, Gardner's cres-
cent, Semple-street, Earl Grey-street, Ponton-street,
Home-street, Leven-street, Tollcross, High Riggs,
Portland-place, Laurieston-street, and other locali-
ties which, though singly or severally unimportant,
are aggregately an interesting suburb. At the south-
ern termination of Lothian-road, where it forms an
angle with Fountain-bridge, is Port-Hopetown, the
terminating basin and yard of the Union canal.
We now return to Abbey St. Cuthbert's, or the
area before Holyrood house. Leaving this at its
south-west angle, a narrow street called the South
back of Canongate, runs westward, parallel to Can-
ongate, and, in its progress, looks up St. John-street
on its north side, and sends off, on its south side,
along the base of Salisbury-crags, the celebrated path
is
■4
1
EDINBURGH.
435
of Dumbie-dykes. The South back of the Canon-
gate is 750 yards in length ; and it pursues its way
along the southern base of the central hill of Edin-
burgh, and, for some little distance, lies along the
gorge between it and the southern hill. Just
before it terminates on the west, it looks up on the
south into the opening to St. John's hill ; and at its
termination, is met at right angles by the end of
Pleasance, coming in upon it by a long sweep from
the south. Cowgate, a continuation of the Back of
the Canongate, wends along the deepest part of
the gorge ; and, in its progress, looks up Mary's-
wynd, Niddry-street, and Blair-street, coming down
upon it with a rapid descent from the north, and va-
rious lanes, and the Horse- wynd descending upon it
from the south ; and, though high in its lines of an-
tique houses, it passes quite underneath the over-
spanning central arch of South bridge, and the spa-
cious stride of George IV.'s Bridge. Cowgate is
narrow, and not quite straight ; and, along with the
lanes which run up from it, is the most densely
peopled and the poorest district of the metropolis, —
altogether squalid in its appearance, and seeming to
cower along the deep gorge of its locality in order to
escape observation. Seen from George IV.'s Bridge,
or the open part of the South bridge, it looks like a
dark narrow river of architecture moving sluggishly
along a dell, and teeming with animated being, and
has, in consequence, an appearance quite in keeping
with the romantic character of the Old town, but
were it raised out of its ravine hiding-place, and
stretched out a long plain or ridgy eminence, it would
be an utter blot and defilement on the whole picture
of the metropolis. Its length, from the angle of
Pleasance, to an angle of Candlemaker's-row which
comes down upon it from the south-east at its
western end, is about 800 yards. Continuous with
Cowgate, but suddenly expanding into three times its
width, is the Grass-market. This is a spacious rect-
angle 230 yards in length, communicating at its
south-east angle, through Candlemaker's-row, with
the southern part of the Old town, and, at its north-
east angle, up the acclivitous and winding and nar-
row alley of West Bow, with the High-street ; and
sending off, on its south-side, an alley of communi-
cation with Heriot's hospital, — the thoroughfare to
that princely edifice usually traversed by its inmates.
The Grass-market is darkly overhung on the north
by the precipitous side of the esplanade of the Castle,
friezed by the New West approach ; but, on its
south side, it is subtended by a gently inclined plane,
the southern hill of the Old town beginning, at the
end of Cowgate, to slope toward the< west. The
west end of the rectangle is closed up by the Corn-
market, with openings, however, at both sides ; and
the east end of the rectangle is deeply associated
with the holiest and most affecting reminiscences of
Scottish history, as the scene of the last sufferings
and the fervid testimony of the dying supplications
of many a devout martyr during the sanguinary per-
secutions of the Stewarts, — ofCargill and Ren wick,
and multitudes more, " of whom the world was not
worthy." The Grass-market is now the chief rendez-
vous of carriers and farmers, and persons of various
classes connected with the country market ; and has,
for an ancient street, a remarkably airy and imposing
appearance. Leaving it on the south side of the
Corn-market, Westport continues the line of street
westward over a distance of 330 yards, — narrowed
into a width similar to that of Cowgate, — sending off
toward the south, the Vennel and Lady Lawson's-
wynd,— and meeting at its termination Bread-street,
Fountain-bridge, High Riggs, and Laurieston, all
stretching in different directions to form the suburb
which has been already described. The point or
small area in which these streets and Westport meet,
bears a certain degree of resemblance to the Seven
Dials of London ; but, for the most part, looks down
rows of architecture greatly superior in aspect.
Let us now adopt as a starting-point for rapid to-
pographical tours over the remaining parts of the
Old town, the south end of Clerk-street, at Nevv-
ington church. This point is 800 yards due west
from the base of Salisbury crags, and 1 ,200 yards
south of the Tron church, or nearest part of High-
street. Stretching half-a-mile away south from the
point we have selected, is the elegant, and opulent
suburb of Newington. Its principal feature is Minto-
street, the great thoroughfare to the towns of Rox-
burghshire, to Peebles, and to places intermediate.
This street consists of detached two-story houses,
sitting back from the road- way, and surrounded by
flower-plots and iron pailings; and it has on its
western, but especially on its eastern side, well-
feathered and beautiful wings of building, disposed
in the form of short streets, single rows, or spacious
openings. The entire suburb is a little town of no
common beauty ,-^-a, picture in every part, of cheerful
ease and refined taste ; and almost quite free from
shop or city appliance to indicate participation in the
common cares of the every-day world.
At Newington church, Montague-street breaks off
from Clerk-street, and runs eastward, or toward
Salisbury-crags, 180 yards. The street in which
it terminates, and which it meets at right angles, is
St. Leonard's-street, and commences a line of com-
munication from the east wing of Newington on the
south, to the south back of Canongate on the north.
Running away northward, St. Leonard's-street sends
down to the east a street called St. Leonard's hill,
in which is the terminus of the Edinburgh and Dal-
keith railway ; and, at a distance of 320 yards, opens
into a little area, whence emerge the Pleasance right
onward, a small street to the east, and Crosscause-
way to the west. The Pleasance, a continuation of
St. Leonard's-street, is spacious, but of irregular
width, somewhat winding, and fined with antiquated
architecture ; and extends 600 yards till it meets at
right angles the South Back of the Canongate.
In its progress, it sends off to the east Carnegie-
street, Brown-street, Salisbury-street, Arthur-
street, and St. John's hill, all descending over an
average distance of 180 or 190 yards, down a rapidly
inclined plane to the King's park, or narrow vale at
the base of Salisbury-crags, and consisting of plain
but neat and uniform houses, built of hewn but un-
polished stone. From the west side of Pleasance, go
off Richmond-street, Adam-street, and Drummond-
street ; all about 220 yards in length, and intersected
by two fines of street running parallel with Pleasance.
This district, including a continuation southward to
Crosscauseway, and consisting of a wing the whole
length of Pleasance, is of considerably modern aspect,
and exhibits a transition-state between the antique
and the modish parts of the city.
Returning again to Newington church, we find
Clerk-street a continuation of Minto-street, or the
great thoroughfare to the middle districts of th
south of Scotland. Clerk-street is spacious and
well-built ; and, after sending off two modern and uni-
form streets, Montague and Rankeillour, to St.
Leonard's-street, and opening on the west into a
email area called Drummond-square, terminates at its
intersection by Crosscauseway, 380 yards north of
Newington church. Nicolson-street continues the
fine of Clerk-street, over a distance of 440 yards, till
it is met at right angles by Drummond-street from
the east, and South College-street from the west. In
its progress, it looks down Richmond-street, sends
off Hill- place, leading into Hill-square, opens into the
436
EDINBURGH.
small area of Surgeons' hall on the east, sends off some
unimportant communications, and expands into the
neatly-built area of Nicolson square on the west. South
bridge continues the line of Nicolson-street 390 yards,
sweeping past the extensive and sumptuous front of
the College on the west, — sending off, on the same
side, North College-street, and opposite to it, on the
east side, Infirmary-street, — passing over the sum-
mit of Cowgate, — and, just before ineetingthe High-
street, opening into the area of Hunter square, on
the north-east part of which stands isolatedly the
Tron church, forming the angle of South Bridge-
street and High-street. North Bridge-street now
continues the northerly line, over a distance of 370
yards, till it is finally pent up by the majestic front
of the Register office, in the line of Prince's-street.
North Bridge-street, over one-third of its length,
consists simply of the lofty road- way of North bridge ;
and over another third, at its northern end, is built
only on one side, — yet presents in its single row of
edifices, owing to their height and elegance and sin-
gular position, one of the most prominent objects
in the city. The entire line of street, commencing
in Clerk, or rather Minto-street, and terminating in
Prince's-street, is wide, regular, well-edificed, and of
imposing aspect ; and from about the middle of Ni-
colson-street northward, is lined with commodious
and elegant shops, vying with one another in bril-
liancy of display, and surpassed only by a few lines of
shops in the New town, and such localities as the
Regent-street of London, or the Grafton-street of
Dublin.
Returning once more to our late starting-point,
we go round the west or rear of Newington church,
and speedily find ourselves at the south end of Buc-
cleuch-street, 100 yards west of Clerk-street. Buc-
cleuch-street runs parallel with the latter, till it falls
in with Crosscauseway, and has a plain appearance.
Branching off from it on the west, and extending
270 yards is Buccleuch-place, — a spacious and re-
tired street, of uniform architecture, but possessing
a chilled and forsaken aspect. Fifty or sixty yards
north of Buccleuch-place, and communicating with
the latter by two openings, expands the fine rect-
angle of George-square, 220 yards by 150; once the
boast of Edinburgh, but now jilted and forgotten
for the fascinating squares and octagons and crescents
of the New town. Behind it, on the west and south,
spreads the fine expanse or public promenade of the
Meadows or Hope-park, formerly covered with water,
and known as the South Loch. Returning to the
north end of Buccleuch-street, we find Chapel-street
continuing it, but with a bend to the west of north,
and extending only about 120 yards. At the end of
that distance, Chapel-street runs up against an acute
angle of building which separates it into two con-
tinuous lines. The more easterly of these is Pot-
terrow, which goes in a direction a little to the west
of north, and is afterwards continued by West Col-
lege-street and Horse-wynd, till the latter plunges
down into the gorge of Cowgate. The second con-
tinuous line from Chapel-street is Bristo-street ;
which runs north-westward, sending off various com-
munications to Potterrovv, and is afterwards con-
tinued by Candlemaker-row to the head of Grass-
market, and by George IV. 's bridge, leading off
Candlemaker-row, over the summit of Cowgate, to
the Lawn-market or High-street. All the district
from Buccleuch-street onward, which we have hither-
to noticed, is strictly akin in character to that on
the west wing of Pleasance, and consists of unorna-
mented masonry, free alike from the antique forms
which surprise a visiter in High-street and Canon-
gate, and the regularity and elegance which de-
light him in the strictly modern parts of the city.
From Bristo-street, about 260 yards north-west
of the north end of Chapel-street, Lothian-street
goes off in a north-east direction over a distance
of 170 yards, till it touches Potterrow; and it is
thence continued by the line of South College-
street eastward into South Bridge-street. Both
these streets are comparatively modern and uni-
form, and contain some elegant shops. From the
west side of Bristo-street, opposite the exit of Lo-
thian-street, Teviot-row leads away due west, past
the City Poor-house and Heriot's hospital on the
north, and Watson's hospital on the south, to the
beautiful suburb of Laurieston. This suburb con-
sists of an elegant short street, Archibald-place,
stretching south into the Meadows, and symmetrical
rows of building, Wharton-place and Laurieston-
place, stretching westward in continuation of Teviot-
row, and leading on, at a few yards' distance, to the
suburb formerly described as lying on the south-west
corner of the city. Behind Laurieston, or on its
south, expands the Meadows or Hope-park, adorned
at this part with the fine form of the Merchant
Maiden hospital
We have now to notice only one small section more
of the Old town; and, in orde.' to trace distinctly its
locality, must return to the foot of the Canongate,
within a few yards of our first starting-point, at the
area before Holyrood house. Just after leaving that
area, we find, off the foot of the Canongate, an open-
ing to the north; which offers a winding path in
front, up the acclivity to London-road, and at the
same time branches off right and left into Abbey-hill
and the North back of the Canongate. Abbey-hill —
of no importance in itself — opens an easy communi-
cation, at the distance of 360 yards, with London-
road, and thence with the portion of the New town
which sweeps round the base, or mounts aloft on
the terraces, of Calton-hill. The North back of
the Canongate runs due west, leaving the foot of
the Canongate at a very acute angle, and receding
from it till, at its termination in Calton, after a pro-
gress of 800 yards, it is distant from it, or rather
from the continuous line of High-street, 230 yards.
The triangle thus formed on two sides, is completed
by Leith-wynd, which comes down from the head
of Canongate, in a direction west of north, to the
west end of the North back of Canongate. All this
triangle, including the streets which form it on the
north and west, is the abode of squalidness and pov-
erty, and is thickly intersected with densely-peopled
lanes and closes, which seem pressing together to
conceal the misery at their base beneath the roman-
tic and rugged outline of the summits of their lofty
houses. Leith-wynd is considerably rapid in de-
scent, and, before closing in to form the triangle,
sweeps past Trinity-hospital, College- church, and
Lady Glenorchy's chapel, all situated in the hollow
which is spanned by the lofty North bridge, and
lying within range of the shadow of its battlements.
The North back of Canongate lies along the gorge
or narrow hollow between the base of Calton-hill,
and the central hill of the site of Edinburgh; at
every part of its progress it is frowned upon by pre-
cipitous declivities whicn Calton-hill sends down in
near contact with its buildings; and, at it west end,
in particular, it is overhung by perpendicular rocks
which bear aloft on their summits the county-jail
and bridewell. Communicating with this street, but
debouching round to the north, and nearly on a line
with Leith-wynd, Calton-street leads off along the
gorge between the western base of Calton-hill and
the abrupt eastern termination of the rising ground
on which stands the original part of the New town ,
and conducting beneath the lofty and beautiful arch
of Regent-bridge, ascends, at a distance of 300 yards
EDINBURGH.
437
from tbe foot of Leith-wynd, to a junction with
Leith-street, and thence to a communication with
all the eastern parts of modern Edinburgh.
Beneath the North bridge, and immediately to the
west of its base, extend the spacious market-place
and the shambles, — the former accessible, from the
New town, by handsome paths winding down off
Prince's-street, and from the Old town by rapidly
descending alleys leading off from High-street and
by commodious flights of steps leading off from
North Bridge-street. The vale, anciently the North
Loch, westward from the shambles and market-
places, and intervening between the old town and
the new, expands over a space of 315 yards by
200, laid out in garden-grounds, and about to be
further adorned by the magnificent Gothic mo-
nument to Scott; it as then intersected by the
hugely colossal earthen wall of the Mound ; and it
thence stretches away westward, again laid out in
garden-ground, and sweeping past the northern face
of the Castle, till it becomes the site of St. Cuth-
bert's church, and the Episcopal chapel of St. John's,
and is lost beneath the new streets of the south-west
wing or suburb of the New town. Over half of its
extent, or from the North bridge to the esplanade
of the Castle, this lovely vale is overhung along the
south by the lofty gables and abutments of the
towering edifices which terminate the northern alleys
from the High-street ; and, in grouping with them,
as well as with the dark and craggy and vast outline
of the overshadowing Castle, it presents an aspect of
romance, and of mingled beauty and sublimity, which
probably was never rivalled by any other city-view
in the world.
The New Town.
The New town of Edinburgh may be regarded as
consisting of four sections, — the original New town, —
the second New town, — the New town of the lands
of Coates,. — and the New town around and on Calton-
hill. A briefer nomenclature, and one sufficiently
accurate, would be the southern, the northern, the
western, and the eastern New town. All are dis-
tinctive in their respective features, and, viewed in
the aggregate, are rather caricatured than pictured
by the phrase which royalty is said to have applied
to them in compliment, "a city of palaces." Were
all the palaces of Britain aggregated on one arena,
and arranged in palace order, all with their clusters
of attendant buildings, and each with its colonnades,
or towers, or turrets, or abutments and gables of
Grecian, or Gothic, or Mixed, or Elizabethan archi-
tecture, they would present an architectural land-
scape motley as the trappings of a stage-clown, com-
pared with the dress of simple elegance and unique
grandeur and rich but chaste adorning which arrays
the New town of Edinburgh.
The southern or original New town, stretches
along the summit of the most northerly of the three
longitudinal and parallel hills which form the site of
Edinburgh; and extends, in length, from nearly the
line of the North bridge on the east, to a line con-
siderably west of the west face of the Castle. Its
form is a regular parallelogram, the sides of which
measure 3,900 feet and the ends 1,090. Its principal
longitudinal streets are three, Prince's-street on the
south, George-street in the middle, and Queen-street
on the north. But between Prince's-street and
George-street, and again between George-street and
Queen-street, run, over the whole length, meaner
and narrower streets, called respectively Rose-street
and Thistle-street, which have been judiciously in-
terposed for the accommodation of a middle class in
society. Prince's-street — as far east, at least, as it
strictly belongs to the original New town, or to a
point 160 yards west of the northern termination of
North bridge — consists of only one row of houses,
having the form of terrace, and facing the northern,
front or towering and picturesque heights of the
Old town. Originally the houses were all of one
figure and elevation, — three stories high, with a sunk
area in front, enclosed by an iron-railing ; and they
differed only in acquiring a finer polish of stone, and
a freer accession of ornament, as the street proceeded
toward the west. But during a considerable series
of years preceding 1840, the street's uniformity of
aspect, over the whole eastern half of its length,
had entirely disappeared. Most of the edifices — all
constructed as elegant and commodious dwelling-
houses — are now, by a variety of devices, transmuted,
enlarged, or architecturally adorned, into hotels, club-
rooms, public offices, warehouses, and shops; and,
with the occasional interspersion of a dwelling-house
and the continuation westward of the street in nearly
its original condition, they present an appearance,
not so much of simple and dignified contrast to the
grotesque and antique outline of the opposite Old
town, as of distant and inexpert imitation of its
romantic irregularities George-street, previous to
the brilliant erections of the northern and western New
town, was said to have no rival in the world; and
even yet, in combined length, spaciousness, uniformity
of architecture, and magnificence of vista and termina-
tion, it may be pronounced unparalleled. It is 115
feet broad, and, like its sister-streets, as straight as
an arrow; but it materially suffers, in its power of
pleasing, by the projection of one public edifice a
little beyond the line of its buildings, and by the
recession, nearly opposite, of another within that
line. At its ends are superb and spacious squares
— the western, called Charlotte-square, and the east-
ern, St. Andrew's-square ; both sumptuous in the
architecture of their sides, and ruralized and lovely
in the garden-plots and shrubbery of their area.
Rising from the centre of St. Andrew's-square, is a
lofty, fluted column surmounted by a monumental
statue of Lord Melville; and sitting up from the
back of Charlotte-square, is the huge form of St.
George's church, bearing aloft a magnificent cupola
and cross ; and these, on the ends of George-street,
decorate and shut up the view. — Queen-street main-
tains its original form, and is a fac-simile of what
Prince's-street would still have been, had it not
been touched by the modelling hand of innovation.
But the grouping of Queen-street with surrounding
objects, and the aspects thrown upon it by its pecu-
liar locality, are entirely different and even con-
trasted. This terrace is not, like Prince's-street,
overlooked at a brief distance by the dark and strange
forms of a loftily situated city of antiquity ; but it
looks down, over its whole length, on a tastefully
dressed area of lawn and flowers and shrubs; and,
across this it is confronted by an array or terrace of
edifices more sumptuous and modern than its own ;
and it thence looks over all the assembled beauties
of the second New town, away to the joyous Forth
and the dim but beautiful landscape in the distance.
— Crossing the parallelogram of the original New
town, from Prince's-street to Queen-street, cutting
George-street at right angles, are 7 streets, St. An-
drew's-street, on the extreme east, and afterwards
St. David's, Hanover, Frederick, Castle, Charlotte,
and Hope streets, the last forming the extreme west.
These streets rise, from each end, by a gentle ascent
to George-street; and are not inferior in spacious-
ness of width and in elegance of architecture, to the
principal longitudinal streets which they intersect.
But while those toward the west maintain, like
Queen-street, their original aspect; those toward
the east have, like Prince's-street, though not to
438
EDINBURGH.
the same extent, been modified and altered, in order
to become suitable seats of business.
The second or northern New town considerably
resembles, in its general outline and arrangement of
streets, the original New town, but has some grace-
ful peculiarities, and greatly excels in the splendour
of its architecture. Separated from the other by the
area of Queen-street gardens, it, too, has the form
of a parallelogram, disposed in two lateral terraces,
a central spacious street, and two intervening minor
streets, — intersected by cross streets, and terminated
by spacious areas. But the parallelogram is shorter
and broader than that of the northern New Town ;
the terraces assume, in their eastern part, the form
of crescents ; and the terminating area on the west
is circular. The northern terrace, in its straight
part, is Heriot-row, and, in its crescent part, is
Abercromby-place. The central street is Great
King-street, shut up on the east end by the Custom-
house, at the back of the square called Drummond-
place, which forms the eastern area, and opening on
the east end into the circular and gorgeously edificed
area, called the Royal circus. The smaller longitu-
dinal streets are Northumberland-street along the
northern section, and Cumberland-street along the
southern. The southern terrace, in its straight part,
is Fetter-row ; and in its curved part, which forms
a deep arc of a circle, is the Royal crescent. The
intersecting streets are Dublin-street, continued by
Scotland-street, on the extreme east, — Nelson-street,
continued by Duncan-street, — Dundas-street, con-
tinued by Pitt-street, — Howe-street, continued by
St. Vincent-street, — and, in the extreme west, India-
street. The northern New town, consisting of the
terraces, streets, and areas, winch have been named,
must simply be described in cumulo, but with spe-
cial reference to the Circus, the two Terraces, and
Great King-street, as unparalleled, except in a por-
tion of the western New town, for the symmetry
and taste of its arrangements, and the superbness
and impressment of its architecture.
Extending out like a fan from the north-west
corner of the northern New town, is the beautiful
suburb of Stockbridge, having its main communica-
tion with Edinburgh through the Royal circus. This
cluster of variously arranged, and uniformly elegant,
rows of buildings, lies on both sides of a beautiful
bend of the water of Leith : the straight line of the
river being here from south to north, and the bend
from that line being toward the east. The buildings
on the east side are, for the most part, arranged in
short, continuous streets, called Saxe-Coburg-place,
Claremont-street, Clarence-street, Brunswick-street,
and India-place — nearly in the form of the half of an
octagon, each side of the semi-octagonal figure facing
the river in the progress of its bend. The buildings
on the west side of the stream are chiefly arranged
into five radii of a circle, or stretch between these
in brief intersecting streets. The principal radii are
Dean-terrace along the river, — a street which ex-
pands into St. Bernard's crescent ; and Dean-street,
and Raeburn-street. The western and eastern sec-
tions are connected by a bridge, from which the
suburb has its name, and which sends off, on the
west, an intersecting street, to communicate through
the Royal circus with Edinburgh.
Stretching away east from the northerly part of
Stockbridge, is another suburb of the northern New
town, separated from it by an open area 530 yards
in length, and 170 yards in average breadth, called
Canonmills meadow, on the north-east corner of
which is a lochlet. In this suburb, at the west, are
the Institution for the deaf and dumb, and the Edin-
burgh academy. The principal lines of buildings are
Claremont-place, connecting it with Stockbridge, and
Henderson-row, continuous with the former, and
Brandon-street running north and south on a line with
Pitt-street and Dundas-street. From the north end
of Brandon-street, Huntly-street breaks off eastward,
and communicates with a mean, plebeian, and con-
fusedly arranged cluster of buildings called Canon-
mills : which see.
The western New town commences 140 yards
west of the south-west corner of the northern New
Town, or of the west end of Heriot-row, in a spa-
cious octagon, called Moray-place, closed round with
edifices which are nowhere rivalled, in the aggregate
beauties and embellishments and sumptuousness of
their architecture, by any aggregation of private
houses of similar extent. From one side of this oc-
tagon opens Darnaway-street, communicating with
Heriot-row. Off Darnaway-street, at right angles,
goes Wemyss'-place, to fall at right angles upon
Queen-street. From another side of the octagon
opens Forres-street, running parallel with Wemyss'-
place, and forming a continuous line with Charlotte-
street. From still another side of the octagon goes
south-westward, over a distance of 320 yards, what
forms distinctly the continuation of the western
New town, — Stuart- street. This is a magnificent
thoroughfare, worthy to connect the opulent displays
of Moray-place, with displays scarcely if at all less
rich, which we shall find at its other extremity.
Stuart- street expands at its middle and over half its
length, into a double crescent, called Ainslie-place :
the two arcs of a circle being exactly opposite, and
presenting exquisitely symmetrical fronts. The
south-west end of Stuart-street passes into the
middle of a very deep and spacious crescent, or more
properly a semicircle, called Randolph's crescent,
which require only to have an opposite counterpart
of itself, in order to be a complete counterbalance
to Moray-place. On a line with the chord of Ran-
dolph's crescent, Queensferry-street runs 230 yards
south-east, to fall there at an obtuse angle upon the
north end of Prince 's-street ; and, on the same line,
Lynedoch-place runs north-west toward Dean bridge,
which spans and overlooks the deep and beautiful
ravine of Leith water, and forms the great thorough-
fare with Perth and other places in the north by way
of Queensferry. From the middle of the chord of
Randolph's crescent, to the intersection of Queens-
ferry-street with the head of Prince's-street, is the
side of a square of streets, which Ues in the form of
a lozenge, with its angles to the four cardinal points,
and measures about 400 yards on each side. The
streets running north-east and south-west are Mel-
ville-street, the most spacious, — William-street, con-
tinued by Alva-street, — and Coates' crescent, con-
tinued by Maitland-street ; and the streets which
intersect these, are Melville-place, continued by
Queensferry-street, Stafford-street, Walker-street,
and Manor-street. This part of the western New
town, though beautiful to a degree which would
challenge prime admiration anywhere but in Edin-
burgh, is markedly inferior to the part first noticed.
Its south-west side, however, creates a thrill of sur-
prise and delight in the breast of many a tourist,
from its being the grand thoroughfare to Glasgow
and other places in the west, and the first of the
numerous architectural displays of Edinburgh which
meets many a stranger's observation. This side we
noticed as formed of Coates' crescent and Maitland-
street; but Coates' crescent, like Ainslie-place, is
double, one of the arcs being called Atholl crescent.
The area in each is tastefully adorned with shrub-
bery; and, in one, has a row of stately trees, which
yields, like the line of edifice to the curve of the
arc. Immediately behind Maitland-street, and run-
ning parallel with it, is Rutland-street, which leads
EDINBURGH.
into the small area of Rutland square. South-west-
ward of the crescents, and on a line with their
chord, are Atholl-place, and, in continuation of it,
West Maitland-street ; and going off from these at
acute angles eastward, are the parallel streets, Tor-
phichen-street and Morrison-street, which connect
the western New town with the suburb of the Old
town south-west of the Castle.
The eastern Newtown, owing partly to the nature
of the ground on which much of it stands, but chiefly
to the various dates and conflicting plans of its erec-
tion, will not be so easy of description as the other
sections. Along its entire western limit it is strictly
compact with the northern and the southern New
towns, being divided from the former simply by the
roadway of Scotland-street and Dublin-street, and
from the latter by the roadway of St. Andrew's-
street. In its extreme north it is very narrow, and
commences at the east end of Canonmills meadow.
There, on the line of the suburb of Canonmills,
stands Bellevue-crescent, with its face to the north-
east. This crescent occupies a gently rising ground,
has the fine facade and spire of St. Mary's church
in its centre, and is neat and uniform in its architec-
ture ; and possesses altogether an imposing appear-
ance. Claremont-street runs away north-east, op-
posite to St. Mary's church, and expands into the
neat though not showy figure of Claremont-cres-
cent. From the south-east end of Bellevue-crescent,
Broughton-street — a spacious and pleasingly edifieed
thoroughfare, but irregular in its plan and sufficiently
plain in some of its buildings — runs in a direction to
the east of south, till it falls, at an obtuse angle, on
Catherine-street, or the line of Leith-walk. Brough-
ton-street is the grand thoroughfare to Fife, Dundee,
and other places in the north, by way of the New-
haven ferry. From its west side go off London-
street, on a line with Great King-street, — Barony-
street, on a line with Northumberland-street, — Al-
bany-street, on a line with Abercromby-place, — and
York-place, on a line with Queen-street, — thus form-
ing a junction or compact union with the northern
and southern New towns. London-street is in a style
of superb elegance akin to the street with which it
communicates ; Albany-street is neat and uniform ;
and York-place is a spacious and pleasing thorough-
fare, not a little adorned by the beautiful turrets and
architectural carvings of St. Paul's episcopal chapel.
From the east side of Broughton-street go off Brough-
ton-place, opposite to the exit of Barony-street, —
Forth-street, opposite to the exit of Albany-street, — .
and Picardy-place, opposite to the exit of York-place.
Between York-place and the line of Prince's-street,
lanes, and little streets, and an area called a square,
are huddled together in a style of grotesque confu-
sion, which — apart from superiority in architecture
— has no parallel in even the most sinuous nook of
the Old town. What adds to the effect produced —
the feeling of surprise at the utter contrast exhibited
to the spaciousness and regularity of the street ar-
rangements in the other sections of the New town —
is that most of this cluster occupies the rounded and
declivitous brow of the northern longitudinal hill of
Edinburgh. From the middle of York-place, a nar-
row street called Elder-street, enters the section we
are describing, and after a progress of 170 yards up
the face of an acclivity, terminates with a bend at
the small area of St. James'-square, on the summit
of the hill-brow; and from this area two narrow
streets descend on rapidly inclined planes,. — one to
fall at right angles in the south-eastern termination
of Broughton-street, and the other to fall at right
angles on the head of Leith-street, a few yards east
of the north end of the North Bridge. As St. James'-
square, and the lanes and little streets sloping down
from it were built, not upon a public plan but upon
a private one of the proprietor of the site, they con-
sist of loftier and less ornate houses than other parts
of the New town ; and, owing to their position, they
present to a spectator, at a little distance, the ap-
pearance of successive ridges of building, towering
aloft one above another, like the seats of a theatre.
Though much more akin in character to the Old
town than the New, they possess the property of
impressing a stranger who approaches Edinburgh
from Leith with ideas of the aspiring architecture
and wonderful aspect of the city At the south
end of St. Andrew's-street we are again on Prince's-
street, a continuation of which thence to the North
bridge, properly belongs to the eastern New town.
Prince's-street is here built on both sides ; and has
thoroughly — more so, indeed, than any other part of
Edinburgh — an aspect of business. Here are as many
spacious shops, and bustling coach-offices, and noisy
inns, and multiform appliances of stir and traffic, as
can well be crowded into the limited space. So great
is the bustle in the constant arrival or starting of
stage-coaches, in the rush of carriages and cabs and
omnibuses, and in the broad current of pedestrians
pouring over this central point of intercommunica-
tion of streets, that one is forcibly reminded here, at
least — if nowhere else in Edinburgh — of the Trongate
and Argyle-street of Glasgow, — and faintly even of
Cheapside, or Ludgatehill, or Fleet-street of Lon-
don..— At the north-east angle of the North bridge
stands the Theatre ; past the sides of which are paths,
partly by flights of steps, down to the district of the
Old town in the adjoining hollow. Opening out
by a curve from the area before the Theatre is Leith-
street, which goes away north-eastward, descending
a slope, and is continued in the same direction by
Catherine-street, till the latter forms an obtuse angle
with Broughton-street. Leith-street presents a me-
dium appearance of architecture between the Old
town and the New, — more akin, however, to the
former than the latter ; and it has, on its north side,
what is called a terrace, a story of building abutted
or projecting from the line of the upper stories, and
having a pathway along its summit. At the foot of
Leith-street, where it has descended to the hollow,
and where it receives the communication from be-
neath Regent-bridge with Leith-wynd and North
back of Canongate, a narrow street or lane, called
Calton-hill, goes off and climbs the steep side of
the eminence whence it has its name, till, at an
acute angle, it merges in the path or flight of steps
by which ascent is made to the site of Nelson's
monument. Catherine-street is similar in appear-
ance to Leith-street ; the houses high, and plain in
architecture. At the foot of this street, the tho-
roughfare which it and Leith-street had formed
from Prince's-street, becomes considerably widened
and very spacious, shoots off in a direction a little
more to the east, and henceforth, till it passes into
Leith, at a distance of nearly 2 miles, is as straight,
and, in some respects, not less or even more pic-
turesque than Prince's-street. From the foot of
Catherine-street, as well as farther on, this tho-
roughfare is properly Leith-walk ; but, for a con-
siderable space, it has subordinate names, each_of
which, very absurdly, applies to a portion of only
one side. On the north side it is called successively
Union-place, Antigua-street, and Haddington-place ;
on the south side it is called Greenside-street, Green-
side-place, Baxter's-place, and Elm-row; and then,
losing much of its town character, and becoming a
debatable ground between the metropolis and its
port, is quietly allowed to pass under its proper
name of Leith-walk. Over all the so-called streets
and places which We have mentioned it is of pleasing,
440
EDINBURGH.
though not superb appearance, and is romantically
overhung by the rapid northern slope of Calton-hill,
covered with verdure, terraced with promenades, and
surmounted by its gorgeous architectural structures,
Elm-row is an elegant line of uniform buildings ;
and opposite to it is the deep recess or open area of
Gayfield square, not unpleasing in its aspect. From
the south-west end of Elm-row a beautiful and spa-
cious line of street, called Leopold-place, opens east-
ward, expands for a while into the fine form of
Hillside-crescent, and stretches away eastward along
the north base of Calton-hill, forming one of two
grand thoroughfares to London and the east coast
of England, by way of Haddington and Berwick-
upon-Tweed. From the north-east end of Elm-
row goes off Montgomery- street, parallel with Leo-
pold-place, to which it sends the cross-communications
of Windsor-street and Brunswick-street. Nearly
opposite the exit of Montgomery-street, Annandale
goes off to the north-west, and bends round into
the beautiful figure of Hope-crescent, facing Leith
walk.
Returning to the area, at the end of North bridge,
or in front of the theatre, we find a magnificent
continuation of Prince's-street, far surpassing it in
the opulent architecture of its edifices, leading off
in a straight line with it, and along a complete
though artificially-formed level, to a point about a
third or a half-way up the ascent of Calton-hill.
This is called Waterloo-place. For about 50 feet it
is lined by ornamental pillars and arches of the Co-
rinthian order, the ledges of Regent-bridge, which
carries it across the gorge at the base of Calton-hill ;
and, in general, it consists of superbly-finished
houses of four stories, which, toward Prince's-street,
have a pediment and pillars above the lower story.
On the north side of Waterloo-place, is a large tene-
ment, built at an expense of .£30,000, and long
used as a hotel ; and on its south side are the Stamp-
office and the General Post-office ; and though these
edifices are in the best style of Grecian architecture,
they no more than symbolize with the other struc-
tures of the street. At nearly 300 yards distance
from Prince's-street, Waterloo-place runs against a
shoulder or projection on the side of Calton-hill, and
debouches to the south-east. At the point of con-
tact with the bulky obstacle, it sends up, from its
north side, an airy (light of steps, by which the level
of the far-seeing promenades of Calton-hill, and the
esplanade of the paths which lead up to its summit,
are attained. While AYaterloo-place, or rather the
spacious road- way, called London-road, in continua-
tion of it, is making its debouch, it is winged on its
south side by the gaol and bridewell, — of very pic-
turesque appearance, and romantically seated on a
cliff, which overhangs part of the Old town. Lon-
don-road again and a third time debouches, running
along the side of Calton-hill, and forming an esplan-
ade or shelf in its declivity ; and after passing the
Royal High school on the north, and a cluster of
monuments or small ornamented cemetery on the
south, slopes gently away to the north-east, becomes
lined with elegant buildings, under the name of Nor-
ton-place, forms a junction about 230 yards from the
eastern base of Calton-hill, with the great thorough-
fare to London, leading off in Leopold-place from
Leith-walk, and thence stretches away round the
northern base of Arthur's Seat, to Pierhill barracks
and Portobello. Just after passing the Royal High
school, London-road sends off at an acute angle on
its northern side, a communication round the eastern
face of Calton-hill, with the upper parts of Leith-
walk. This, like the road itself, is an esplanade or
shelf on the face of the hill, and is lined on the
higher side with a row of superb and uniform houses,
which command much of the brilliant prospect Been
from the more elevated promenades, and which, un-
der the names of Regent-terrace, Calton-place, and
Royal-terrace, sweep round the hill, over a distance
of about 1,000 yards, describing the figure of the
orbit of a comet when approaching and leaving its
perihelion. At its west end, Royal-terrace sends
down a communication with Leopold-place ; and at
the point of their junction another terrace, called
Greenside-row, of neat appearance, but much inferior
to the others, goes off at right angles, to run parallel
with Leith-walk, and eventually send down a com-
munication bendingly to Catherine-street.
The topographical description which we have now
completed of the street arrangements of Edinburgh,
though succinct, and probably in itself somewhat
confusing, will be very distinctly understood, even
by a total stranger to the city, by means of the map
or topographical plan inserted in the present work;
and it will prevent an idle waste of words in necessa-
rily vague attempts to convey ideas of the general
groupings of Edinburgh, and will also save time, and
aid distinctness of conception in indicating the posi-
tion of remarkable objects. Let us next, then, at-
tempt a rapid exhibition of public buildings, civil,
charitable, educational, ecclesiastical, and defunct.
To promote uniqueness of view, we shall, as much as
possible, classify edifices, arranging churches, educa-
tional structures, charity-houses, bridges, and extinct
buildings respectively into sections ; and we begin
with a somewhat miscellaneous but very large class,
including whatever buildings may, in either a large
or a limited and private sense, be termed political
and civil.
Civil Edifices.
The abbey and palace of Holyrood will be de-
scribed in a separate article : see Holyrood.. — A
short way up the Canongate is Queensberry-house,
a large plain building, erected by William, 1st Duke
of Queensberry. It was inhabited by him, by the
2d and the 3d Dukes, and by the Duchess of the 3d,
daughter of Lord Clarendon, and cousin of Queen
Mary and Queen Anne. It is now the property of
Government Nearly opposite to it, within a gate
at the head of a close or alley, is Whitefoord-house,
— a large modern mansion, built by Sir John White-
foord, and afterwards inhabited by Dugald Stewart.
About half-way up the Canongate, on the north
side, is the Canongate-tolbooth, — a dark, plain, an-
tique building, surmounted by a small spire, and now
used as a prison for debtors. Fixed to the wall, at
the south-east corner, is the Canongate cross Far-
ther up, on the south side of the street, is the con-
spicuous mansion of Moray-house, the property of
the Earls of Moray, built, most probably, after the
union of the Crowns. In front is a massive stone-
balcony, communicating with one of the apartments,
and overlooking the street ; and in the rear is a ter-
race-garden, in which grows a thorn-tree said to have
been planted by Queen Mary A little below Mo-
ray-house is an antique building, said to have been
a town-residence of the Dukes of Gordon.
On the north side of High-street is the Royal ex-
change, commenced in 1753, and finished in 1761 at
an expense of £31,457. It is a large and elegant
square, with a court in the centre. The south side,
or that fronting the street, consists of a fight colon-
nade, about 25 feet high, with a platform on the top
adorned with pilasters and vases. All the arches
under the colonnade, except the central one, are
built up and constructed into shops. From the
end of the colonnade, two wings extend northward
131 feet till they touch the inner front, or 182 feet
till they reach the rear of the entire edifice. Tha
©
S3
EDINBURGH.
441
north side of the square extends 111 feet over wall,
and is 51 feet broad. Pillars and arches, supporting
a platform, run along its front, and form a piazza. In
the centre, four Corinthian pillars, whose bases rest
upon the platform, support a pediment on which are
engraved the armorial-bearings of the city. The
building contains the magistrates' court-room, the
apartments of the town-council, and various offices
connected with the city, and is ascended to its upper
floors by a hanging stair, the well of which is 20 feet
square, and 60 feet deep. The court in the centre,
including the piazza, is 96 feet south and north, and
86 feet east and west. The building is, in its south
front, 60 feet high ; but it stands on the slope of the
hill, and in its rear is 100 feet high.
Nearly opposite to the Royal exchange is Parlia-
ment-square, entered by openings at both ends of St.
Giles' cathedral, and having that ancient edifice as its
northern side. The square is a small area, built en-
tirely round on three sides by public edifices, consist-
ing of the Exchequer, Sir William Forbes and Co.'s
bank, the Justiciary court, the Court of session, the
Parliament house, and the Libraries of the faculty of
advocates, and the writers to the signet. The public
buildings of the three sides are large, and very ele-
gant, supported by piazzas. Those on the east and
south-east occupy the site of old and lofty houses
which were destroyed by a great fire, of three days'
continuance, in 1824. The court-room of the Court
of exchequer, contained in one of them, is on the
second story, lighted partly from the roof, and of
very moderate dimensions.
The Parliament house, built on the south and west
in the form of the letter L, was begun in 1631, and
completed in 1640, at an expense of .£1 1,000. But
its present front — consisting of an arcade below, and
open galleries above, with pillars supporting a con-
tinuous cornice — was erected in 1808. The building
is 133 feet long ; and, at its narrowest part, 60 feet
broad, at the widest part, 98' feet ; and it occupies
so singular a site, that, though 60 feet high in the
rear, it is only 40 feet high along both its northern
and its eastern front. The large hall, formerly oc-
cupied by the parliament of Scotland, and now known
as the outer house of the court of session, is entered
by a plain door- way and dark lobby at the angle of
the building, or north-west angle of the square. This
hall is one of the noblest apartments in the United
Kingdom ; and extends 122 feet in length, and 49 in
breadth. It has a beautiful oaken floor and roof, — the
latter arched, supported by abutments, and construct-
ed in the same style of open wood- work as the roof
of Westminster hall, with gilded knobs. The hall,
besides 4 windows on its west side, has, on its south
end, a large and beautiful window of stained glass,
on which is depicted a female figure of Justice, with
her sword and balance, amid radiated clouds. In va-
rious parts of the hall, and of the rooms connected
with it, are fine specimens of statuary, — one, by
Roubilliac, of Lord-president Forbes, in his judicial
robes, — another by Chauntrey, of the first Lord Mel-
ville,— and one, also by Chauntrey, of Lord-presi-
dent Blair. The hall was formerly adorned by full-
length portraits of some of the sovereigns of Britain ;
and, on occasion of George IV. 's visit to Edinburgh,
was the scene of the banquet given to him by the
Corporation. In the days of the Scottish parliament,
there stood, at the south end, beneath the great
window, a high throne for the sovereign ; along the
sides were seats for the bishops and nobility ; before
these, were forms for the representatives of counties
and burghs ; in the middle, was a long table for the
use of the Lord-clerk-register and his assistants,
and having spread out, on its upper end, " the hon-
ours," or regalia; at the foot of the table, was the
bar of the house ; behind a wooden partition, farther
north, was a pulpit, whence sermons were preached
to parliament ; and at the north end was a small
gallery for the accommodation of strangers. All
these appliances of the quondam parliament, how-
ever, were long since swept away, leaving the hall
nearly a quite unoccupied area, and a magnificent
promenade. During sessions, it is a daily resort of
most gentlemen of the legal professions, and a fre-
quent resort of many persons of all classes ; and ex-
hibits a scene of such bustle and apparent confusion
as is bewildering to a stranger. On the east side of
the hall, north and south of the entrance, are reces-
ses, with benches and a small projecting and enclosed
area, for the courts of the lords ordinary. Beneath the
great window are curtained entrances to two neat
small rooms, for the same courts, in the disposal of
a particular class of cases. Leading off from the hall,
on its east and west sides, are the court-rooms of the
first and the second division of the court of session.
These were fitted up respectively in 1808 and 1818,
and are of such inadequate dimensions as frequently
to be found annoyingly incommodious.
Projecting westward from Parliament house to-
wards George IV. 's bridge, and presenting a front
toward the spacious thoroughfare along that bridge
across the Cowgate, is the Advocates' library. The
apartments are chiefly two noble and very elegant
rooms, on different floors. The upper room has a
carved and gilded roof ; and is adorned with a bust
of Baron Hume of the exchequer, and with original
portraits of Archbishop Spottiswood, Lord-high-
chancellor of Scotland, Lord-president Forbes, Lord-
president Lockhart, and several other judges of the
supreme court. But a large portion of the books is
deposited in rooms beneath Parliament house, si-
tuated at its south end, and accessible by flights of
steps from a door at the north-west angle of the
square. The library was founded, in 1682, by Sir
George MacKenzie, dean of faculty ; and, by seve-
ral large accessions and a constant accumulation,
has become the largest and most valuable in Scot-
land. The number of printed volumes is 150,000 ;
and of manuscripts, 1,700. The volumes, in the
department of Scottish poetry alone, are nearly
400 ; and are extremely rare and curious. Among
the manuscripts, are those of Wodrow the historian,
and many of considerable value in the civil and ec-
clesiastical history of Scotland. The library is one
of five which receive from Stationer's hall a copy
of every new work published in Great Britain or
Ireland ; and it excels most, and is equalled by few,
of the public institutions of the country, in the
liberality of the principles on which it is conducted.
Any person who is even slightly known is allowed
to read and write in the apartments ; and even a
stranger is admitted, without any introduction, to
survey the literary stores, and examine numerous
articles of vertu. Members are allowed to possess
or carry away, 25 volumes at one time, and to lend
any or all of that number to friends. The funds are
derived chiefly from fees paid by each advocate on
his becoming a member of the faculty ; and they ad-
mit of about £1,000 a-year being disbursed in the
purchase of rare or useful works. The library is
under the charge of five curators, a librarian, and
three assistants. The office of principal librarian has
been filled by men of distinguished literary character,
— Thomas Ruddiman, David Hume, Adam Fergu-
son, and David Irving, LL.D.
The Signet library adjoins Parliament house on the
north, and stretches westward, presenting architec-
tural fronts to Parliament-square and Lawn-market.
It is of Grecian architecture, and possesses two spa-
cious and handsome apartments on different stories.
442
EDINBURGH.
The upper room — acquired a few years ago from the
faculty of advocates — is probably the most elegant
apartment of its size in Scotland, and of very beauti-
ful proportions. It has on each side a range of 12
Corinthian pillars, and in the centre a dome or cu-
pola. On the dome are painted the nine muses, and
groups of historians, philosophers, and poets. The
roof also is exquisitely ornamented ; and galleries
are carried along the two sides of the hall. The
room is 132 feet long and 39 broad ; and is accessible
by a grand staircase, adorned, in its progress and
round the walls of its landing-place, with some
splendid portraits and busts. This splendid apart-
ment was used as a sort of drawing-room by George
IV., on the day of the banquet in Parliament-house.
The library contains about 60,000 volumes. It is
peculiarly rich in British and Irish history ; and is
under the charge of a body of curators, and con-
ducted on principles of liberality akin to those which
distinguish the management of the Advocates' lib-
rary. The funds are drawn solely from the contri-
butions of the writers to the Queen's signet.
The County-hall stands at the western termina-
tion, or north-west angle of the signet library, and
presents fronts to George IV. 's bridge, to Lawn-
market, and to St. Giles' church, or the western in-
gress to Parliament-square. The last of these is the
principal ; and possesses no common beauty. An
elegant portico, consisting of four fluted columns,
with finely- carved capitals, overshadows a flight of
steps leading up to the main entrance, which is
modelled after the Choragie monument of Thrasyl-
lus. The whole edifice, as to its general plan and
its style of ornament, is an imitation of the temple
of Erectheus at Athens. This handsome structure
was designed by Archibald Eliott, Esq., and erected
in 1817. The court-room has a gallery at the south
end, and is neatly fitted up : and measures 43£ feet
in length, 29 in width, and 26 in height. The room
in which the county-meetings are held is in the north
end of the edifice, and very elegant, — measuring 50
feet in length, 26A in width, and 26 in height. There
are apartments also for the sheriff's court, and for
various functionaries employed in the business of the
county.
On the north side of High-street, westward of
the Royal exchange, down a steep and filthy alley
called Blyth's-close, are the reputed palace and ora-
tory of Mary of Guise, queen of James V. The
tenement pointed out as her residence is now, as
well as the oratory, partitioned off into small apart-
ments, and converted into the abode of squalidness
and penury ; and, even in the days when the now
nauseous Cowgate was the seat of the elite of Edin-
burgh, must have been a strange dwelling for the
mother of the beautiful Mary, and an emigrant from
the gay and gorgeous royal palaces of France. Over
the door is the inscription, " Laus et Honor Deo,"
with the cipher of the queen At the top of the
High-street is the old city-reservoir; remarkable
for its supply of excellent water for the city being
brought from the Pentland hills.
On the summit or precipitous extremity of the
central hill of Edinburgh stands the Castle, covering
an area of about six English acres. The rock which
it surmounts is precipitous on the northern, western,
and southern sides ; in some places is almost perpen-
dicular ; and, at its highest part, rises nearly 300
feet above the vale below, and 383 feet above the
level of the sea. On its western side it sends off a
glacis or esplanade, 350 feet by 300, called the Cas-
tle-hill, which communicates with the upper end of
Castle-street or High-street, commands all the rich
landscape round Edinburgh, except toward the west,
and is used both as a parade-ground for the military
and promenade for the citizens. On the western
verge of the esplanade is advanced the outer palli
sadoed barrier of the fort. Behind this are a dry
ditch and a drawbridge, flanked by low batteries
Within these the road wends past a guard-house,
and passes under an arched gateway, secured by
strong gates, and bearing aloft an edifice which i;
used as a state-prison. On the right, after passing
the gateway, is the Argyle battery, mounted with
10 guns of 12 and 18 pounders, which are pointed
toward the New town, and from which, in general,
the salutes are fired. The road thence leads past
the arsenal, which is capable of containing 30,000
stands of arms, and exhibits a display of trophies and
military stores curiously arranged, and highly attrac-
tive to a stranger who has looked little on the muni,
ments of war, — the houses of the governor and other
functionaries, which are of plain appearance, — and a
huge pile of buildings, called the New barracks, built
in 1796, three stories in front but four in the rear,
resting there upon piazzas, and so grossly disfiguring
the outline of the Castle as to appear, even at a con-
siderable distance, hke a large factory sitting on the
brink of a precipice. The road sweeps past these
buildings in a curve, and during its progress is climb-
ing an ascent ; and it now, through a second strong
gateway, enters the inner and higher vallum of the fort.
Within are the ancient erections of the Castle, and
nearly all its most interesting objects. On the south
side is a lofty pile of buildings with a court in the
centre. The south-east portion of this pile was
partly built in 1565 by Queen Mary as a palace, and
contains, on the ground-floor, a small apartment —
now part of the canteen or tavern of the Castle, and
quite accessible to any visiter — in which she was de-
livered of James VI. In the same buildings is the
crown-room, in which the regalia of Scotland are
exposed three hours a-day to the view of visiters
who have been furnished at the Royal exchange with
gratuitous tickets of admission. The regalia were
lodged here on the 26th of March, 1707, immediately
after the act of Union, and were long supposed to
have been secretly conveyed to London; but, on
the 5th of February, 1818, were discovered by com-
missioners appointed by the prince-regent, carefully
and even elaborately secured in a large oaken chest.
They consist of the crown, the sceptre, the sword
of state, and the lord-treasurer's rod of office; and
are placed on a table, surrounded from ceiling to
floor with a barred cage, and made visible by " the
dim religious light" of four lamps. In the crown
room are also a ruby ring, set round with diamonds,
worn by Charles I., — at his Scottish coronation, —
the golden collar of the order of the Garter, sent by
Elizabeth to James VI., — and the badge of the order
of the Thistle, set with diamonds, and bequeathed
by Cardinal York to George IV.*— On the east side
of the Castle, immediately north of the square court,
is the half-moon battery, mounted with 14 guns,
overlooking the Old town, and entirely commanding
the access along Castle-street and the Castle-hill.
On this battery are a flag-staff, behind which George
IV. surveyed the city ; and a very deep draw-well,
the water of which fails when the guns are fired.
Farther to the north, and overlooking the Argyle
battery, is the bomb-battery, the highest point of
the rock, whence a magnificent view is obtained of
the gorgeous and far-spreading panorama hung out
on all sides toward the distant horizon. On the
bomb-battery was placed in March, 1829, the cele-
brated piece of ordnance called Mons Meg, of 20
inches in the bore, — composed of long pieces of beat
iron which are held together by a close series of
iron hoops, — employed in 1497 by James IV., at the
» See Note to article Dunstaffnack.
EDINBURGH.
443
siege of Norham castle on the English border, — rent,
in 1682, when firing a salute to James, duke of
York, and bearing on both sides of its elegant
frame an inscription which supposes it to have been
forged in 1486 at Mons. Behind the bomb-battery
stands a small chapel of recent erection on the site
of a very old one which it supplanted. — The Castle,
except on the eastern side, is exceedingly ill-adapted
for the purposes of a fort, and presents an outline
either of high houses or walls or points of rock hav-
ing little capacity for gunnery; the fortifications cor-
responding with none of the rules of art, but accom-
m odating their form and their uses to the irregular
sweep of the rock on which they stand. The gar-
rison has a non-resident governor, a deputy-governor,
a fort-major, a store-keeper, a master-gunner, and
two chaplains, the one presbyterian, and the other
episcopalian. The historical events of the Castle
are so intimately blended with those of the town,
that they must be woven into one tissue with them
in the concluding section of this article.*
* There is one historical event, of too romantic a nature not
to be deeply interesting, yet too full of incideut to be after-
wards interwoven with our necessarily condensed narrative,
which we may here introduce. In 121)6, daring the contest for
the Crown between Bruce and Baliol, it was besieged and taken
by the English. It still remained in their possession in 1313, at
which time it was strongly garrisoned and commanded by Piers
Leland, a Lombard. This governor having fallen under the
suspicion of the garrison, was thrown into a dungeon, and an-
other appointed to the command, in whose fidelity they had
complete confidence. It has frequently been remarked that in
capturing fortresses, those attacks are generally most success-
ful which are made upon points where the attempt appears the
most desperate. Such was the case in the example now to be
narrated. Randolph. Earl of Moray, was one day surveying
the gigantic rock, and probably contemplating the possibility of
a successful assault upon the fortress, when "he was accosted
by one of his men-at-arms with the question, 'Do you think it
impracticable, ray lord ?* Randolph turned his eyes upon the
querist, a man a little past the prime of life, but of a firm, well-
knit figure, and bearing in his bright eye, and bold and open
brow, indications of an intrepidity which had already made
him remarkable in the Scottish army. ' Do you mean the
rock, Francis ?'f said the earl; 'perhaps not, if we could
borrow the wings of our gallant hawks.' 'There are wings,'
replied Francis, with a thoughtful smile, 'as strong, as buoy-
ant, and as daring. My father was keeper of yonder fortress.'
'What of that? you speak in riddles.' * I was then young,
reckless, high-hearted ; I was mewed up iu that convent-like
castle; my mistress was in the plain below — ' * Well, what
then?' * 'Sdeath, ray lord! can you not imagine that I speak
of the wings of love ? Every night I descended that steep at
the witching hour, and every morning before the dawn I crept
back to my barracks. I constructed a light twelve-foot ladder,
by means of which I was able to pass the places that are per-
pendicular j and so well, at length, did I become acquainted
with the route, that in the darkest and stormiest night, I found
my way as easily as when the moonlight enabled me to see my
love in the distance, waiting for me at her cottage door.'
'You are a daring, desperate, noble fellow, Francis! How-
ever, your motive is now gone; your mistress — * 'She is
dead: say no more; but another has taken her place.' ■ Ay,
ay, it is the soldier's way. Woman will die, oreveD grow old;
and what are we to do ? dime, who is your mistress now •"
• My Country. What I have done for love, I can do again for
honour ; and what I can accomplish, you, noble Randolph, and
many of our comrades, can do for better. Give me thirty
picked men, and a twelve-foot ladder, and the fortress is our
own !* The Earl of Moray, whatever his real thoughts of the
enterprise might have been, was not the man to refuse such a
challenge. A ladder was provided, and thirty men chosen (rom
the troops ; and in the middle of a dark night, the party, com-
manded by Randolph himself, and guided by William Francis,
set forth on their desperate enterprise. By catching at crag
after crag, and digging their fingers into the interstices of the
rocks, they succeeded in mounting a considerable way : but
the weather was now so thick, they could receive but little
assistance from their eyes ; and thus they continued to climb,
almost in utter darkness, like men struggling up a precipice in
the nightmare. They at length reached a shelving table of the
cliff, above which the ascent, for ten or twelve feet, was per-
pendicular; and having fixed their ladder, the whole party lay
down to recover breath. From this place they could hear the
tread and voices of the ' check- watches ' or patrol above ; and
surrounded by the perils of such a moment, it is not wonderful
that some illusions may have mingled with their thoughts.
They even imagined that they were seen from the battlements;
although, being themselves unable to see the warders, this was
f The soldier's name was William Frank. Mr. Leitch Rit-
chie here tides the novelist's licence in dealing with the name,
and in throwing the story into the form of a dialogue, but the
events are faithfully narrated.
Facing Bank-street, and looking up the slope of
that short street to High-street, but presenting a
back front to the New town, and situated a few
paces eastward of the southern end of the Mound,
is the office of the Bank of Scotland. This is an
edifice of high architectural merit, elegantly orna-
mented in its front and surmounted by a dome ; and
was erected at an expense of .£75,000. From the
area before it romantic and distinctive views are ob-
tained of the groupings of the New town and Calton-
hill, with the brilliant scenery which forms the back-
ground. The building itself is a marked and beauti-
ful feature of the picturesque and extraordinary city-
view of the north side of the Old town. — The Gen-
eral Register house of Scotland, situated at the east
end of Prince's-street, and looking down the tho-
roughfare of North bridge, is one of the most splen-
did edifices of Edinburgh. It was founded in 1774,
and aided in the erection by a grant of £12, GOO from
George III., out of the proceeds of forfeited estates;
but, at first, was completed in only half its present
extent, and did not attain the complement of its
original plan till 1822. It was constructed from a
master-design of the celebrated Robert Adams ; and
combines the utmost internal commodiousness with
interior architectural beauty in the best taste of the
simple Grecian style. The building stands 40 feet
back from the line of Prince's-street, and is screened
by an enclosing parapet and ornamental iron-railing,
divided in the middle by a double flight of steps.
The front is of smooth ashlar work, 200 feet long,
and two stories of visible height, besides a sunk floor ;
and it is ornamented from end to end with a beautiful
Corinthian entablature, and, in the middle, has a pro-
jection of three windows in breadth, where four Co-
rinthian pillars support a pediment, in the centre of
which are sculptured the armorial bearings of Britain.
The entire building is square — 200 feet on each side
■ — with a small quadrangular court in the centre.
This court is surmounted or canopied by a dome, 50
feet in diameter, which leaves just sufficient space at
the four angles for the ingress of light to the inner front
of the outer side of the edifice. Each corner is sur-
mounted by a turret, projecting a little from the rest
of the building, having clock-dials on the exterior
sides, and a cupola and vane on the top. The in-
terior of the edifice is partly arranged into nearly 100
small arched apartments, on both floors, leading off
from long corridors. There are also small rooms for
the use of functionaries connected with the supreme
courts, and larger apartments for the stowage of re-
highly improbable. It became evident, notwithstanding, from
the words they caught here and there, in the pauses of the
night-wind, that the conversation of the English soldiers above
related to a surprise of the castle ; and at length, these appal-
ling words broke like thunder on their ears: * Stand! I see
you welll' A fragment of the rock was hurled down at the
same instant; and, as rushing from crag to crag, it bounded
over their heads, Randolph and his brave followers, in this wild,
helpless, and extraordinary situation, felt the damp of mortal
terror gathering upon their brow, as they clung, with a death-
grip, to the precipice. The startled echoes of the rock were at
length silent, and so were the voices above. The adventurers
paused, listening breathless ; no sound was heard but the sigh-
ing of the wind, and the measured tread of the sentinel, who
had resumed his walk. The men thought they were in a dream,
and no wonder; for the incident just mentioned — which is re-
lated by Barbour — was one of the most singular coincidences
that ever occurred. The shout of the sentinel, and the missile
he had thrown, were merely a boyish freak ; and while listen-
ing to the echoes of the rock, he had not the smallest idea that
the sounds which gave pleasure to him, carried terror, and
almost despair, into the hearts of the enemy. The adventurers,
half uncertain whether they were not the victims of some illu-
sion, determined that it was as safe to go on as to turn back ;
and pursuing their laborious and dangerous path, they at length
reached the bottom of the wall. This last barrier they scaled
by means of their ladder ; and leaping down among the aston-
ished check-watches, they cried their war-cry, and in the midst
of answering shouts of 'treason! treason!' notwithstanding
the desperate resistance of the garrison, captured the Castle of
Edinburgh." [Heath's Picturesque Annual. Scott and Scot*
landt pp. 174—7.]
444
EDINBURGH.
gisters. The great room, or library, where are de-
posited the older records, is in the centre of the
building, lined with books over all its walls, and bal-
conied all round, at mid-elevation, with a railed gal-
lery. This salloon is 50 feet in diameter and 80 feet
high, lighted from the top by a window of 15 feet
diameter ; and its roof is divided into compartments
elegantly ornamented with stucco-work. From the
salloon, communications lead off into 23 subordinate
apartments, all occupied in the conservation of docu-
ments. The whole establishment is under the im-
mediate management of the depute-clerk register,
and is supported by government, — at whose expense
the sumptuous and costly edifice was completed.
Opposite the Register-house, and presenting a side
front, at a few feet distance, to the North bridge,
is the Theatre royal. It is the plainest public build-
ing in Edinburgh, of a barn-like appearance, with a
front just sufficiently ornamented to indicate that the
designer had seen in his boyhood or imagined in his
dreams something more elegant than a dead wall per-
forated with doors ; and, though well-situated for
subserviency, to its intrinsic objects, it obstructs the
view of the magnificent Register house from the south,
and is a blot upon the most important and crowded
thoroughfare of the metropolis. The building was
finished in 1769, at an expense — including the para-
phernalia of histrionism — of about £5,000. The
house is small, and does not bring more of average
receipts than £60 or £65 a-night; but it appears
quite large enough for the accommodation of the play-
goers of Edinburgh. — On the south side of George-
street are the Assembly-rooms. The front is plain
and unpretending, relieved only by four Doric columns
as an apology for a portico. The principal room is 92
feet long, 42 wide, and 40 high ; and, besides being
appropriated to balls and concerts, is often used for
public meetings, political, civic, charitable, and re-
ligious.
In St. Andrew's-street, where it forms the east
side of St. Andrews-square, is the elegantly edificed
office of the Royal bank. The building stands apart
from the neighbouring erections, and occupies a con-
siderable recess from the street-line ; and it was
originally the private mansion of Sir Laurence Dun-
das On the east side of Drummond place, present-
ing fronts to Great King-street and London-street,
is the Excise-office. It is a handsome, though unor-
namented edifice ; and was at one time the mansion
of General Scott In Waterloo-place, on the south
side, stand the Stamp-office and the general Post-
office, — the former the central building to the west
of Regent-bridge, and the latter the first building
to the east. But though the Post-office has a spa-
cious open porch, and both are splendid Grecian
edifices four stories high, they are distinguishable from
the contiguous erections mainly, if not solely, by the
sculpture, in relief, of the king's arms on their sum-
mit. The light open colonnades along both sides of
the street, and the general magnificence and fine
proportions of all the buildings, combined with the
overshadowing heights and erections of Calton-hill,
surprise and delight every visiter from England or
the European continent, and drew from George IV.,
as he slowly rode, amid his triumphal procession,
within range of the view, the impassioned exclama-
tion, "How superb!"
At the east end of Waterloo-place, on the south
side, is the Town and County jail, founded in 1815,
and finished in 1817. It is an extensive building, in
the Saxon style of architecture, somewhat castel-
lated. The front, on the line of street, presents to
the observer on the road-way simply a high wall with
a massive gateway. But seen from many points of
view in the Old town, and especially from the sum-
mit, immediately before it, of Calton-hill, it has a
multiform and architecturally — though certainly not
in moral association — a very interesting aspect.
Along the street-line are apartments for the turn-
keys. Behind these, with an area intervening, is the
jail itself, 194 feet long, 40 feet wide, and 4 stories high,
with rows of small grated windows. ' In the centre
is a chapel with windows larger and not grated.
Along the interior run corridors, opening into 48
cells, 8 feet by 6, besides some other apartments of
larger dimensions. From the lower flat behind, a
number of small airing grounds, separated by high
walls, radiate to a point, where they are all over-
looked and commanded by a small octangular watch-
house occupied by a deputy-governor. Farther back,
and perched on the edge of a precipice which over-
hangs the Old town, is the castellated house of the
governor, having in its front a small area of flower-
plots. The jail has classified wards, is clean and
well-managed, and possesses facilities for the prac-
tice of approved prison-discipline ; but it is seriously
damaged in some of its capacities by being a jail for
both criminals and debtors, and wants commodious-
ness for the due lodgment of both Immediately on
the east side of the jail, separated from it by a high
spiked wall, stands Bridewell. In front of it, shielded
by a high wall and ponderous gate on the street-line,
is a neat house for the governor. Bridewell itself is
of a semicircular form, and has five floors, the high-
est of which is distributed into store-rooms and an
hospital. All round on each floor, at the middle of
the breadth, is a corridor, with cells on each side,
lighted respectively from the interior and the exte-
rior of the curvature. Those on the inner side are
chiefly used as workshops, and can all be surveyed
from a dark apartment in the governor's house,
without the observer being himself observable. On
the low floor is a tread-mill, originally constructed
for the manufacture of corks, but now mounted and
moved only in cure of idleness, or punishment of
special delinquency. The area within the circle is
a small court glazed over head. The house is under
excellent regulations, and is made, as much as pos-
sible, the scene rather of the reclamation and the
comfortable industry of its unhappy inmates, than of
the punishment of their offences. — On a flat exposed
piece of ground, on the summit of Calton-hill, north
of the National monument, stands the New obser-
vatory. It has the form of a St. George's cross, 62
feet long each way. On each of the four ends or
terminating points, are six columns supporting hand-
some pediments. The centre is surmounted by a
dome, 13 feet in diameter; and has a pillar rising up
to the dome, 19 feet high, for the astronomica
circle. Near it, on the north-west shoulder of Cal-
ton-hill, is the Old observatory, a plain, dingy build-
ing, three stories high.
The South bridge consists of 21 arches, and was
founded in 1785, and opened in 1788. To the eye
of a stranger, its existence is not readily obvious.
Except at the central arch which spans the Cowgate,
and where there are simple ledges, nothing is seen
upon it but two lines of neat buildings and spacious
shops, forming a level, a bustling, and in all respects,
an ordinary-looking street. Three lanes were pulled
down in order to make way for its erection ; and
when a trench was dug for the foundation of the
central pier, at a depth of no less than 22 feet, there
were found many coins of Edward I., II., and III —
The North bridge was founded in 1763, commenced
in 1767, interrupted by the giving way of the vaults
and side- walls at the south end in 1769, and com-
pleted in 1 772, at an expense of about £18,000. It con-
sists of three great arches, two small openside arches,
and a scries of small arches at each end which are
EDINBURGH.
445
occupied as vaults. The width of each of the great
arches is 72 feet ; the breadth or thickness of each
of the piers is 13| feet ; the width of each of the
open small arches is 20 feet ; the length of the whole
open part of the bridge is 310 feet; the length of the
entire bridge, from High-street to Prince's-street, is
1,125 feet; the height of the bridge, from the top
of the parapet to the base of the great arches, is 68
feet; the breadth, within wall, is, over the open
arches, 40 feet, and at each end, 50 feet. Along the
south end are very strong buttresses and counterforts,
supporting rows of lofty building which run up on
both sides to the High-street, and conceal that part
of the bridge entirely from view, giving it the ap-
pearance of a regular street. On the north end
there is a counterfort only on the east side ; but on
the west side a line of building is carried up from the
level of the bridge's foundation, having in the rear
about double of the height which it presents on the
street-line in its front George IV. 's bridge, which
goes off at right angles from the Lawn-market oppo-
site Bank-street, and stretches across the Cowgate
to a point near the south end of Candlemaker's-row,
was projected in 1825; and after being begun, and
for some time left in an unfinished state through a
failure of funds, was completed in 1836. It is, in
all respects, a splendid erection, and has three open
double arches over the Cowgate, besides seven con-
cealed arches at the ends. Part of the line is edi-
ficed with houses and public buildings, and wears
the appearance of a street. — The King's bridge, con-
stituting the principal feature of the New Western
approach, was projected and completed about the
same time as George IV. s bridge. It spans the
hollow ground on the south side of the Castle-rock in
a single arch, and has long approaches along the face
of the Castlebank to the Lawn-market on one end,
and on to a point near Port-Hopetoun on the other.
— Regent-bridge, in Waterloo-place, was founded in
1815, and completed in 1819. It has one open arch
over the Low-Calton, 50 feet in width, and about the
same measurement in height. The ledges over this
arch, or in the space where the bridge has not strictly
a street-appearance, are surmounted by Corinthian
ornamental pillars and arches .The Dean bridge,
over the water of Leith near Randolph crescent, was
completed in 1832. It is a stupendous and brilliant
structure, carried across a ravine, and consists of four
arches, each 96 feet wide. The bridge is 447 feet
long, and between the parapets, 39 feet broad. The
road-way is higher than that of almost any other
bridge in Scotland, passing at 106 feet above the bed
of the stream The Earthen-mound stretching across
the site of the quondam North loch from the end of
Hanover-street in Prince's-street, to a point west of
the end of Bank-street, though not a bridge, is a
succedaneum for one, and may be allowed a place
ail description where there ought to have been a
bridge to be described. The existence of this elon-
gated hill, — this clumsy and enormous and unre-
moveable apology for a bridge, — this practical satire
upon the unique beauty of Edinburgh, which stretches
its dark length from the Old town to the New, in
seeming derision of the picturesqueness of the one,
and the brilliance of the other, — has been justly de-
plored by almost every topographical writer on the
metropolis. Huge as the mass is, it originated in a
very trivial and almost accidental operation. When
the site of the North loch was in a marshy state, a
shopkeeper in the high part of the Old town, who
was frequently led from business or curiosity to visit
the scene of the building-movements in commence-
ment of the new, accommodated himself with ' steps '
across the marsh ; and he was followed, in the con-
struction of the convenient path, by other persons
similarly situated to himself, who contributed their
quota of stone, wood, or plank, to fill up, widen,
and heighten what, in rude compliment to the
founder of the rude thoroughfare, was called ' Geor-
die Boyd's brig.' An apparently advantageous use
of earthy or rubbishy deposits having thus been dis-
covered, formal permission was eventually given by
the magistrates to lay down, for the elevation and
increase of the incipient Mound, the contents of the
extensive excavations for the sunk floors of the New
town buildings. From 1781 till 1830, augmentations
to its breadth and height were continually or occa-
sionally made. But at that date the Mound became
levelled and Macadamized, sown with grass on the
sides, and, in various ways, embellished in adaptation
to its capacities, so as to assume an appearance of
being at length completed. It is upwards of 800
feet in length ; on the north, upwards of 60 feet in
height ; and on the south about 100. Its breadth
is proportionally much greater than its height, aver-
aging probably 300 feet. It is computed to contain
upwards of 2,000,000 of cart-loads ; and, on the
very moderate supposition that each load, if paid for,
was 6d. in value, it must have cost the enormous
sum of £50,000.
In the centre of Parliament square is an equestrian
statue of Charles II., erected in 1685, at the cost
of £ 1,000, which, in vigour of design and general
effect, surpasses any other specimen of bronze sta-
tuary in the metropolis On the north side of the
Castle-hill, or esplanade of the Castle, is a splendid
bronze statue of the Duke of York, placed on a
pedestal, and erected in 1839 Looking up St. Da-
vid's street within the screen along the south side
of Prince's-street, is the site of Sir Walter Scott's
monument. This erection, when completed, will
be highly ornamental to the city. The design is by
Mi. G. M. Kemp, and combines the beauties of the
most admired specimens of the monumental cross.
The erection will cover an area of 55 feet square,
and rise to the height of 180 feet. The four prin-
cipal arches supporting the central toiver will re-
semble those of the transept of a Gothic cathedral ;
and the lowest arches in the diagonal abutments will
be copied from the narrow north aisle of Melrose
abbey. The statue, by Mr. Steel, though placed at
a lofty elevation, will be fully appreciable for its
beauty as a work of art, and for its correctly imagi-
nal representation of Sir Walter ; and it will be
canopied by a grove roof copied from the compart-
ment, still entire, of the roof of Melrose choir. In
many of the details, capitals of pillars, canopies of
niches, mouldings, pinnacles, the celebrated abbey
so much frequented and so enthusiastically admired
by Sir Walter in his lounges around Abbotsford, will
be freely followed as a model In George-street,
at the point of its intersection by Frederick-street,
is the bronze statue of Pitt, executed by Chauntrey,
and erected in 1833. The statue is placed on a
pedestal, and possesses considerable dignity of ex-
pression In George-street, at the point of its inter-
section by Hanover-street, is the bronze statue of
George IV., executed by Chauntrey, and erected in
1832. This monument is utterly inferior to that of
Pitt, by the same artist ; and has the worse effect
from suffering comparison by its immediate vicinity.
" The majesty of the monarch must be admitted to
be somewhat transcendental. The figure is so far
thrown back, as to give it the appearance of deriving
a share of its support from the drapery behind, an
expedient suggesting some particulars in the natural
history of the kangaroo, which by no means contri-
bute to sublimity of effect. It must, however, be
granted, that by caricaturing the monarch the artist
has exalted the minister, for the exaggerated pomp
446
EDINBURGH.
of the one, powerfully contrasts with the intellectual
elevation of the other." — In the centre of St. An-
drew's-square, at the east end of George-street,
stands Lord Melville's monument. This is a re-
markahly handsome column, begun in 1821, and
finished in 1828, by subscriptions chiefly of naval
officers. It rises to the height of 136 feet, and is
then surmounted by a statue 14 feet high. The
design is, in general, a copy of the Trajan column in
Rome ; but deviates from that model in the shaft
being fluted instead of ornamentally sculptured, and
in the pedestal being a square instead of a sphere.
The column is 12 feet 2 inches thick at the bottom,
and gradually diminishes in its ascent, till it is 10i
feet thick at the top. Up the interior is a spiral
staircase, lighted by almost imperceptible slits in the
fluting. The base is adorned with some beautiful
architectural devices ; and the colossal statue, formed
of stone, appears, on its giddy elevation, of the natu-
ral size of the human figure. — In front of the Royal
bank in St. Andrew's-square is a statue, in Roman
costume, of the Earl of Hopetoun, erected in 1835.
The Earl leans on a charger pawing the pedestal,
and is eulogized in inscriptions commemorative of
his military exploits East of Bridewell, on the
same side of the road, standing on an isolated emi-
nence, is Burns' monument. This structure, though
elegant, is unpleasing in its proportions ; but has in
its interior a fine statue of the poet by Flaxman. —
Near this monument, in the same locality, is a dark,
low circular tower to the memory of David Hume.
On the summit of the highest rocky eminence of
Calton-hill stands Nelson's monument, — a conspicu-
ous object in almost every view of Edinburgh from
sea or land, and a magnificent termination to the
view along Prince's-street from the west. It was
commenced shortly after Lord Nelson's death, but
was not finished till 1815. Fastidious criticism has,
in one instance, described it as " more ponderous
than elegant;" and, in another instance, it has for-
gotten its own dignity by buffoonishly representing
the monument as " modelled exactly after a Dutch
skipper's spy-glass or a butter churn;" yet, as if
fearful of a rebound of the witticism upon itself, has
added that the monument, "from the grandeur of
its site and the greatness of [its] dimensions, must
be admitted to possess those attributes of sublimity
which are independent of grandeur of design." [' The
Modern Athens.' By a Modern Greek. London,
1825.] The base is a battlemented edifice, divided
into small apartments, and occupied by a restaura-
teur; and has, over its entrance, the crest of Nelson,
and sculpture in bas-relief representing the stern of
the San Joseph, and, underneath, an appropriate in-
scription. From this edificed base rises, to the
height of more than 100 feet, a circular, hollow tur-
ret, battlemented at the top, climbed by a staircase
within, and surmounted by a flag-staff. Around the
edifice are a garden and plots of shrubbery. The
precipice from the edge of which the monument
rises possesses an outline, which, as seen from a
point south of Holyrood-house, is alleged to be a
profile of Nelson Near Nelson's monument, a little
to the north, on the summit of a knoll, stand the
twelve pillars of the National monument. This
structure was projected in commemoration of the
Scotsmen who fell in the land and sea fights conse-
quent on the French revolution; and, with a splen-
dour of design corresponding to the greatness of the
object, was meant to be a literal restoration of the
Parthenon of Athens. No little enthusiasm was
displayed in the prospect of its erection, and pro-
mised to draw out the requisite though vast amount
of money for its completion ; but either it subsided,
or felt its energies to be factitious, and, though
sanctioned and aided by Royal concurrence, has, up
to 1840, and perhaps permanently, left the monu-
ment as commemorative of incompetency of pecu-
niary means on the part of admiring survivors, as of
the deeds and bravery of departed heroes. The
monument was founded in 1822, during George IV. 's
visit to Edinburgh, and was commenced in 1824.
The pillars of it which have been erected are of
gigantic proportions, cost each upwards of £1,000,
and were designed to form the western range of the
entire structure. Within the area of the monument,
in apartments commodiously fitted up, is an interest-
ing exhibition of statuary On the face of Calton-
hill, overlooking Waterloo-place, is Dugald Stewart's
monument, erected in 1831. It was built from a
design by Mr. Playfair ; and is in the style of a Gre-
cian temple, — a restoration, with some variations, of
the Choragic monument of Lysicrates On the
south-east angle of the New observatory is Profes-
sor Playfair's monument ; a square, uninscribed edi-
fice of solid stone, enclosed with a rail.
On the east side of Nicolson-street, south of the
exit of Drummond-street, stands Surgeons' hall, or
the hall of the Royal college of Surgeons. The
building is modern, large, and elegant, with a fine
portico, and cost about £20,000. The interior is
arranged into several very spacious apartments.
The pathological museums are extensive, and well
fitted to aid surgical studies On the south side of
George-street, between St. David's-street and Ha-
nover-street, is Physicians' hall, or the hall of the
Royal college of Physicians, built in 1775. It is
three stories high, purely Grecian, and has in front
four beautiful Corinthian columns supporting a pedi-
ment. In one of the apartments is an excellent
library of old foundation. — On the north end of the
Earthen mound, presenting shorter fronts to Hanover-
street and the Old town, and longer ones to the
views along Prince's-street, stands a magnificent
oblong edifice called the Royal institution. This is
one of the most handsome modern buildings in Scot-
land. It was founded in 1823, and is borne by a sub-
structure of wooden piles and cross-bearers, rendered
necessary by the ground being "travelled earth," and
formed at a cost of upwards of £1,600. Besides a
large central hall for the exhibitions of the Scottish
academy of painting, the building contains apart-
ments for the Royal society of Edinburgh, the Board
of trustees for the improvement of manufactures,
and the Society of Scottish antiquaries. The mu-
seum of the Antiquarian society is enriched, among
many other curiosities, with some colours carried by
the Covenanters during the civil war, the stool which
Janet Geddes hurled at the Bishop of Edinburgh in
St. Giles' church, and "the Maiden," or Scottish
guillotine, with which many noblemen and distin-
guished persons were beheaded — In Prince's-street,
west of the Mound, is the New club, a sort of joint-
stock hotel and reading-room, for the exclusive use
of an association of noblemen and gentlemen, the
members of which are elected by ballot. — On the
lands of Inverleith, nearly a mile north of the city
toward the sea, is the Royal Botanic garden, twelve
acres in area, and transplanted from a former site in
1822-4. The surface declines slightly to the south,
and is disposed in plots and promenades of great
beauty and variety. Within the area, are a pond for
irrigating the soil of aquatic plants, hot-houses heated
by steam for the culture of tropical plants, and a
spacious building fitted up as a class-room for the
professor and students of botany.
The University presents its main front to South
Bridge-street, and forms an entire side respectively
of North College-street, West College-street, and
South College-street. It is a regular parallelogram.
EDINBURGH.
447
356 feet long and 225 wide, extending its length east
and west, and having in the centre a very spacious
court. The main front is of exquisite and stupen-
dous proportions, and superb and Grecian in its
architecture ; but, in common with the entire build-
> ing, is so pent up by the pressure of the street that
it can nowhere be seen to advantage. Were the
University situated in a large park, particularly upon
a rising ground, it would appear almost sublime, and
be without a parallel among the modern edifices of
Scotland ; but situated as it is, it makes, upon the
mind of a stranger, in its exterior views at least,
impressions chiefly of bewilderment and confusion.
The building is four stories high, and is entered by
very lofty and wide porticoes which penetrate it on
the east. At the sides of the main gateway are two
elegant columns, each 26 feet high, and formed of
a single stone. On the summit is a large stone en-
tablature, with the following inscription : "Academia
Jacobi VI. Scotorum Regis anno post Christum na-
tum m,d,lxxxii instituta; annoque m,dcc,lxxxjx.
renovari coepta; regnante Georgio III. Principe
munificentissimo; TJrbis Edinensis Praefecto Thoma
Elder ; Academias Primario Gulielmo Robertson.
Architeeto Roberto Adam." The continuous range
of building round the inner court is in a very tasteful
Grecian style ; and has an elegant stone balustrade,
forming a kind of gallery, which is interrupted only
by the entrance, and by flights of steps to the Library,
the Museum, the Hall of the Senatus Academicus,
and the several class-rooms. At the angles, and on
the west side, are spacious piazzas. The Library-
room, situated on the second floor of the south side,
is a noble hall 198 feet long and 50 broad, with a
beautiful roof of stucco-work, and contains about
80,000 volumes, besides a collection of antiquities,
sculpture, and articles of vertu. Accessions to its
books are obtained by contributions of a copy of each
new work from Stationers' hall, and of 10s. from
each student on his matriculation, and £5 from each
professor on his induction. The library was founded
in 1580 in a bequest of books by Mr. Clement Little,
an advocate in Edinburgh, "for the use of the citi-
zens;" yet though it had so popularly-designed an
origin, and is supported chiefly by the public through
Stationers' hall, it is conducted on decidedly exclu-
sive principles. The Museum, situated on the west
side, occupies two rooms, each 90 feet by 30, on
separate floors. The lower apartment is appropri-
ated to conserved large animals and other bulky ob,
jects; and the upper one, lighted from the roof, and
tastefully fitted up with elegant glass-cases and
tables for the exhibition of birds, insects, shells, and
other small objects of natural history. In addition
to the large rooms, are contiguous galleries and
smaller apartments, appropriated to minerals, and
other details. Though the museum is of recent
origin, it is already one of the best in Scotland, and
is accessible to a citizen or stranger for the fee of
one shilling a visit The University building was
founded in 1789, the magistrates having resolved,
with more zeal for the celebrity of the city than at-
tention to their financial capacities, to bear the cost
of the erection ; and though, for a brief period, it
was briskly carried forward, it had even the front
part finished with difficulty, and stood in its slender
and fragmentary state about twenty years the monu-
ment of combined vanity, rashness, and poverty.
But, Government having, in 1815, resolved to ex-
pend .£10,000 a-year upon it till it should be com-
pleted, it was a second time set in progress, and ad-
vanced, through intermediate years and by successive
additions, to a finished state in 1834 The Univer-
sity originated in a bequest of 8,000 merks by Robert
Reid, Bishop of Orkney, before the Reformation.
The magistrates, who were vested with power to
found it, purchased, in 1563, the ground on which
it stands ; but, in consequence of opposition from
the prelates of St. Andrews and Aberdeen, were not
able, till 1581, to make a fair commencement. But
previous to that date they had, by a remote grant
from Queen Mary, and a confirmed and immediate
one from James VI., received, towards its erection
and support, all the houses belonging to the religious
foundations within the city ; James IV. besides,
watched over the infant institution with paternal
care, and endowed it with church-lands, tithes, and
other immunities. In 1583 it was opened for the
labours of a single professor, the amiable Robert
Rollock; and, in 1597, it acquired a second profes-
sorship, and was presided over by Rollock as prin-
cipal. The original building was a tenement which
had belonged first to the provost and canons of the
Kirk of Fields, and next, as a residence, to the Earl
of Arran. In 1617, a college-hall and several apart-
ments for classes were erected. In 1685, it had
risen to possess 8 professorships, and was currently
attended by a large body of students. Previous to
the Revolution, it was disturbed and degraded by
the contests of faction; but since that event, it has
enjoyed quietude, and been marked by the calm
destitution of incident peculiar to a well-managed
seat of learning. In 1720, the study of medicine
was introduced to its curriculum, and rapidly pro-
moted its prosperity, till it eventually won for the
University the proudest name in Europe. No college
probably can boast of a longer or more brilliant array
of eminent men, whether as professors or alumni.
So numerous have the men, in the walks of medi-
cine, of metaphysics, of polite and classical literature,
and of the various physical sciences, who, from 1720,
have shed lustre over it by their genius and their
fame, that a mere list of their names is nearly in-
compatible with the limits of condensed narrative.
An idea of its progress, as well as of the constitution
of its senate, will be best formed by glancing at the
date, salaries, and class-fees of the professorships. The
principalship, founded in 1585, has .£151 salary.
The professorship of Humanity, founded in 1597,
has £87 salary and £1,319 fees. Divinity, founded
in 1620, has£'196 salary, fees not known. Oriental
languages, founded in 1642, has £115 salary and £142
fees. Mathematics, founded in 1674, has £148 sa-
lary and £618 fees. Botany, founded in 1676, has
£127 salary and £898 fees. Theory of Physic,
founded in 1685, has £882 fees. Practice of Physic,
founded in 1685, has £1,008 fees. Ecclesiastical
history, founded in 1695, has £200 salary and £260
fees. Anatomy and Surgery, founded in 1705, has
£55 salary and £969 fees. Public Law, founded in
1707, has £485 salary. Greek, founded in 1708,
has £87 salary and £1,171 fees. Natural Philoso-
phy, founded in 1708, has £52 salary and £638 fees.
Moral Philosophy, founded in 1708, has £102 salary
and £556 fees. Logic, founded in 1708, has £52
salary and £551 fees. Civil Law, founded in 1710, has
£100 salary and £151 fees. Chemistry, founded in
1713, has £2,213 fees. Universal History, founded
in 1719, has £100 salary and £105 fees. Scottish
Law, founded in 1722, has £100 salary and £953
fees. Midwifery, founded in 1 726, has £596 fees.
Clinical medicine, founded in 1741, has £801 fees.
Rhetoric, founded in 1762, has £100 salary and £134
fees. Natural History, founded in 1767, has £100
salary and £714 fees. Materia Medica, founded in
1768, has£l,281 fees. Practical Astronomy, founded
in 1786, has £120 salary. Agriculture, founded in
1790, has £50 salary and £63 fees. Clinical Sur-
gery, founded in 1803, has £100 salary and £611
fees. Military Surgery, founded in 1806, has £100
448
EDINBURGH.
salary and .£75 fees. Medical Jurisprudence, founded
in 1807, has ±'100 salary and £18 fees. Conveyancing,
founded in 1825, has £120 salary and £462 fees.
Pathology was founded in 1831 and Music in 1839;
but their salaries and fees are not known. The fees
as now stated are those reported by the commission of
inquiry into the state of the universities ; but they
have in many instances been considerably reduced.
The foundation bursaries are 80 in number, and ag-
gregately £1,172 in value. Honorary degrees, in all
the faculties, are occasionally conferred ; and never
having been prostituted, as in some other universi-
ties, are in high estimation. The number of students
has, for a series of years, been considerably upwards
of 2,000 ; and about one-third of them are medical.
The periods of attendance are 6 months, from Oc-
tober, for most of the classes, and 3 months, from
May, for 5 of the medical classes. The patronage of
7 of the chairs is vested in the Crown, — of 3 jointly
in the Faculty of Advocates, the Faculty of Writers
to the signet, and the Town-council, — and of all the
rest, in the Town-council and Magistrates. The
Lord-provost of the city, but only in a titular sense,
is Lord-rector.
In Lothian road is the building of the Royal aca-
demy for teaching exercises, better known as the
Riding-school. It is a large and splendid edifice, and
contains suites of apartments, some of which are
rented by the Scottish military and naval academy.
The Riding-school is superintended by 2 masters,
and governed by 18 directors The Military and
Naval academy has 10 teachers, in a great variety
of departments, and is governed by 27 extraordinary,
and 14 ordinary directors, with chairman and trus-
tees In Adam square, is the School of arts, founded
in 1821, and presenting the attractions of a cheap
and effective college or academy of science and litera-
ture for the operative classes. — Near the foot of
St. Mary's-wynd, or the east end of Cowgate, but
approached through Surgeon-square on the south,
stands — like a jewel in a setting of bogwood, or a
flower-plot in the midst of a putrid marsh — a large
and elegant school-house, erected in 1840, from the
surplus funds of Heriot's hospital. It has piazzas,
towers, ornamented windows, and various other
architectural decorations, and situated in the most
squalid district of the metropolis, and existing for
the benefit of the poorest order of children, it
seems by the exhibition of its beauties as a foil to
the deformities around it, to be a type of the tran-
sition which the blessings of education may effect
from ignorance and filth, *o mental polish and to
elegance of character In Richmond-street, is a
very large Lancasterian school-house, of plain but
not unpleasing exterior. — In Niddry-street, is the
capacious plain building of the City free-school.
— Near the back of the Bank of Scotland, looking
out upon Prince's-street gardens, is the Sessional
school, a neat and commodious edifice.
On the south face of Calton-hill, a little above
the line of London road, stands the High-school.
This building is worthy of its magnificent site, and
while it commands one of the richest of town and
country landscapes of Edinburgh and its environs,
is itself a beautiful feature of the scenery with
which it is grouped. It is built of pure white
stone, and consists of a central part of two wings,
extending about 270 feet in front. The central build-
ing is a pediment advanced upon a range of Doric
columns ; and the end buildings are nearly flat-roofed
and of plain architecture. Yet seen from below, the
entire edifice pleases and delights the eye as much
perhaps as any single erection in the metropolis.
A spacious flight of steps leads up to it from the
enclosing wall in front ; and a fine play-ground be-
hind, is overlooked by the entrances to the various
class-rooms. The interior is distributed into a large
hall, 73 feet by 43, — a rector's class-room, 38 feet by
38, — 4 class-rooms for masters, each 38 feet by 28,
— a room for a library, — and two small rooms attached
to each of the class-rooms. On the margin of the
road- way, on a lower site than the main building, are
two neat lodges, two stories high ; the one occupied
by the janitor, and the other containing class-rooms,
respectively 36 feet by 18, and 40 feet by 18, for
writing and practical mathematics. The area of the
school and play-ground is two acres, and was formed
into a level by deep cutting in the face of the hill.
The edifice was founded in 1825, amid pompous
processional pageantry ; and cost, with its appur-
tenances, about £30,000. There are a rector and
four classical teachers, each of the teachers carrying a
class round a circle of four years of progressive
study, and then receiving a new class. Except
small allowances from the town-council, the fees
constitute the salary, and are 15s. a quarter for the
masters' classes, and 1 6s. for the finishing or maturing-
class of the rector The High-school is traceable
under the name of the High grammar-school, as far
back as 1519. In 1578, when the magistrates had,
for a while, made vain efforts to found an university,
a school-house, of respectable capacity, was erected
on the grounds which now form the termination,
or lie between that termination and Surgeons'-square.
In 1777, a new and neat and commodious edifice was
reared on the site of the old , but, owing to the ple-
beian character of its vicinity, and the inodorous and
perhaps unhealthy associations of its locality, be-
came distasteful to the citizens of the New town,
and continued to sink in estimation proportionally
to the growing extension and the rising attractions
of that successful rival of the ancient city.
North of Henderson-row, near the water of Leith,
is the Edinburgh academy, of similar character and
design to the High-school. The school-house is a
low, neat building, constructed with reference more
to interior commodiousness than to exterior display,
yet not unsuited in appearance to the architecturally
opulent district in its neighbourhood. The Academy-
was founded in 1823, by a society who had, by pro-
prietary shares of £50 each, a capital of £12,900,
capable of being augmented to £16,000. It is more
aristocratic in its plan than the High-school, or ra-
ther is conducted on principles which render it less
accessible to the children of the middle classes, and
has a longer period of study and larger fees, — the
former being 7 years, and the latter £7 for the first
year, £9 for the second, £11 for the third, and £11
10s. for each of the succeeding years. There are a
rector, four masters for classics, two for writing,
one for mathematics, and one for English literature.
— Near Canonmills is a large and handsome School-
house, built and maintained by the congregation of
St. Mary's church.
Within a court, off the Canongate, is the Magda-
lene asylum, instituted in 1797. The building is a
large plain house, and accommodates from 50 to 60
females In Richmond-street is the Public dispen-
sary, instituted in 1776. The house is plain and
neat ; and, as well as its appliances of medicine and
medical advice, is so incompetent to Edinburgh, that
various kindred institutions have been established, —
the Western General dispensary, at Port-Hopetoun,
founded in 1830, — the Eye dispensary of Edinburgh,
in the Lawn-market, — the Edinburgh Western dis-
pensary, for diseases of the ear and eye, in Castle-
street, — the New town dispensary, founded in 1815,
— and others of less note or more limited sphere, ac-
commodated in private buildings.. — In Nicolson-
street are two buildings, both originally private
EDINBURGH.
44^1
houses, fitted up as asylums for the male and the fe-
male Mind. That for males was opened in 1806,
and that for females in 1822 In Argyle-square, a
slight expansion and westward continuation of North
College-street, is Minto-house, a remnant of the dull
and antiquated grandeur of a former age, fitted up in
1829, as the Surgical hospital In Park-place, be-
ll ind the north side of George-square, is the Lying-
i n-hospital, so inadequate, however, to the wants of
the metropolis, that five kindred institutions, though
unprovided with hospitals, have at various periods
been founded At Morningside, a village or suburb
U mile south of Edinburgh, on the road to the Braid
hills, is the Lunatic asylum, founded in 1810. This
is a large handsome edifice, surrounded by elegant
garden-grounds, enclosed by a high wall, and placed
in a remarkably salubrious situation. The building
was aided by a government grant of .£2,000 North
of Henderson-row, and near the Edinburgh academy,
is the Institution for the deaf and dumb, instituted
in 1810. The building, raised by subscription, is
large, commodious, and of not unpleasing appear-
ance ; and the system of training so excellent as to
have been a model for similar institutions in other
cities.
The city Poor's house, built in 1 743, is situated
within the angle formed by Bristo-street and Teviot-
row, considerably back from the road-way, so as to
look down on an open area. The edifice is of four
stories, very spacious, but of plain and dingy appear-
ance. In its vicinity are a bedlam and a children's
hospital. There are Poor's houses also for Canon-
gate and the parish of St. Cuthbert's ; the former is
situated at the foot of a wynd behind the Canongate
Tolbooth, and the latter in a field westward of Lo-
thian road. The three establishments are aggre-
gately maintained at a cost of £12,000 or £13,000
a-year ; about one-sixth of which is produced by col-
lections at the churches of the Establishment, and
the rest chiefly by assessment, aided by small en-
dowments, bequests, donations, and fines.
The Royal infirmary, built during the reign of
George II., stands on the south side of Infirmary-
street. The edifice consists of a body and two pro-
jecting wings, all four stories high, substantially
built, and abundantly perforated with windows. The
body is 210 feet long, and, in the central part, 36
feet wide, — in the end parts, 24 feet. Each of the
wings is 70 feet long, and 24 wide. The central
part of the body projects from the main line, and
is elegant in its architecture ; a range of columns,
being surmounted by a cornice, whence arises a cu-
riously adorned attic structure, bearing aloft a glazed
turret. _ Between the columns are two tablets with
sacred inscriptions; and in a recess above the en-
trance, is a statue of George II. in a Roman dress.
The access to the different floors is by a large stair-
case in the centre of the building, so spacious as to
admit the transit of sedan chairs, and by two smaller
staircases, one at each end. The floors are distri-
buted into wards, fitted up with ranges of beds
capable of accommodating 228 patients,— the smaller
rooms for the nurses and the medical attendants,
a manager's room, a waiting-room for students, and
a consulting-room for the physicians or surgeons.
Two of the wards, devoted to patients whose cases
are considered most curious and instructive, are set
apart for clinical lectures, attended by students of
surgery, and delivered by the professors of Clinical
Medicine in the University. Within the attic, in the
centre of the building, is a spacious theatre for sur-
gical operations, capable of accommodating 200 stu-
dents. The house has separate wards for male and
female patients, and a ward which is used as a Lock
hospital ; but, even in ordinary periods, it is utterly
I.
incompetent for the service of Edinburgh, and, dur-
ing the prevalence of an epidemic, affords a very
fractional part of requisite accommodation. The In-
firmary was first contemplated in 1725 by the Royal
college of Physicians, but was encouraged by only a
very small portion of the clergy or influential popu-
lation; and, in 1729, it was commenced on quite a
tiny scale, with the pitiful capital of £2,000. In
1 736, the contributors to it having begun to be some-
what appreciated, were incorporated by royal charter.
The Earl of Hopetoun, during the last 25 years of
his life, when the institution was young and of slen-
der means, contributed to it £400 a-year. In 1750,
Dr. Archibald Ker of Jamaica, bequeathed to it an
estate worth £200 a-year. In 1755, the Lords of
the Treasury gave it £8,000. But the institution
owed most to George Drummond, Esq., who was
seven times Lord Provost. When the present erec-
tion was in progress, he made indefatigable exertion
among the principal citizens to find the means of de-
fraying current costs, and prevent it from coming to
a pause. A bust of him, executed by Nollekins, was
afterwards set up by the directors in the hall, with
the inscription : " George Drummond, to whom this
country is indebted for all the benefits it enjoys
from the Royal Infirmary."
Heriot's hospital, situated on the summit of the
southern ridge of Edinburgh, and surrounded by a
spacious area or open park, with a main gateway
from Laurieston, and an everyday thoroughfare from
Grassmarket, is a magnificent and even princely
structure. The edifice was commenced in 1628, and
finished in 1650, at the cost of £30,000. It is the
finest and most regular of the specimens of Gothic
architecture designed by Inigo Jones. It is a noble
quadrangle, 162 feet each way in the exterior, having
an open court measuring 94 feet each way in the
centre. This court is paved with square stones, and
has a fountain in the centre ; and is decorated, on
the north and east sides, with piazzas 6± feet broad,
and, on the second story of the north side, with an
effigy of the founder, placed in a niche. Over the
gateway of the edifice, which is on the north side,
fronting the Grassmarket, is a tower, projecting
from the main line, surmounted by a small dome and
lantern, and provided with a clock. The corners,
or end parts of each front, project like the tower,
and have the form and adornings of oriental turrets.
In the projecting parts the house is four stories high ;
and in the other parts, three stories. The windows
are 200 in number ; but, owing to a whim of one of
Heriot's executors, are architecturally adorned in a
vast variety of ways, and, on a near inspection, give
the edifice, which seems so superb and tasteful at a
little distance, an offensive and caricatured appear-
ance. On the south side, opposite the entrance, is
the chapel, 61 feet by 22, neatly fitted up, and oc-
casioning a projection in the building, which re-
sembles a turret surmounted by a small spire, and
gives balance to the tower on the north side. Till
a few years ago, the chapel presented to the view
only a clay floor and bare walls, with a crazy ros-
trum for the preacher, and a row of stone seats for
the inmates ; but now it has a splendid pulpit, a
richly-adorned ceiling, and beautiful oaken carvings,
and is the principal interior attraction of the edi-
fice.— The hospital originated in a princely bequest
of George Heriot, goldsmith, first on a small scale,
and in a humble way ill Edinburgh, next to Anne of
Denmark, consort of James, and afterwards to James
VI. himself, both before and after his succession to
the English crown. Many readers will form an idea —
perhaps not an incorrect one — of his position in the
King's household after the removal of the court to
London, from the picture drawn of him as " Jingling
2 F
450
EDINBURGH.
Geordie," in the ' Fortunes of Nigel." On his death,
in 1624, the sum of .£23,025 10s. 3£d. was found,
after deducting from his property payment of other
bequests, to be available for maintaining and edu-
cating the sons of poor burgesses of Edinburgh. The
civil disturbances which broke out in 1639 retarded
the progress of the building ; and, even after it was
finished, occasioned it to be used for 8 years as an
hospital for the forces under General Monk. In
April, 1659, it was opened for 30 boys ; and it was
made available, in August of the same year, for 40,
—in 1661, for 52,— in 1753, for 130,— and in 1763,
for 140, — and eventually for 180. Boys are admitted
when from 7 to 10 years of age, and usually leave
when about 14. They are comfortably lodged and
fed, wear a uniform dress, receive a very liberal edu-
cation, and at leaving are presented with a bible,
and a large supply of clothing of their own choice.
Those of them who are destined to become trades-
men, are provided with an apprentice-fee of £50,
and, at the close of their apprenticeship, with another
supply of apparel, or a present of £5. Those who
are distinguished for mental power, or give promise
of being able to make fair attainments in scholarship,
have their stay in the hospital prolonged, and after-
wards receive bursaries of £30 a-year for 4 years,
to enable them to attend the university. Ten other
bursaries of £20 each for 4 years are given from
the funds to aid boys of superior talents and ac-
quirements, unconnected with the hospital. In
1836, the governors obtained parliamentary sanction
to extend the benefits of the institution in the erec-
tion of free-schools in various parts of the city; and
three schools have since been erected. The man-
agement of the hospital is vested in the town-council
and the city ministers of the Establishment.
George Watson's hospital stands 200 yards south
of Heriot's hospital, at the entrance to the meadows,
near the back of the north- west angleof George-square.
The building is oblong, of extensive dimensions, and
presents to the north a long handsome front, the cen-
tral part of which is higher than the end parts, and
bears aloft a spire terminating in the figure of a ship,
the emblem of the traffic by which the founder be-
came enriched. The erection was commenced in
1738, and finished in 1741, at the cost of about
£5,000. The hospital originated in a bequest of
£12,000 by George Watson, first a merchant in
Holland, and afterwards an accountant in his native
city, Edinburgh, who died in 1723. When the build-
ing was commenced, the fund had accumulated to
£20,000. Twelve boys originally were admitted on
the foundation, but now 80, who wear a uniform
dress, and are lodged, fed, educated, and provided
for in a similar way to the boys of Heriot's hospital.
They are received from 7 to 10 years of age, and re-
main till 15. Those who leave to become trades-
men, receive an apprentice-fee of £10 a-year for 5
years, and afterwards, at the age of 25, if unmarried
and well-conducted, receive a gift of £50; and those
who prefer an academic education, and appear quali-
fied for it, receive £20 a-year for 6 years. The
managers are a master and twelve assistants, the trea-
s urer of the Merchant company of Edinburgh, retired
in embers of the citv magistracy, and the two ministers
of St. Cuthbert's. '
The Merchant Maiden hospital stands in the mea-
dows, nearly 200 yards west of George Watson's
hospital, the lines between these hospitals and Heriot's
forming the sides of nearly an equilateral triangle.
The edifice is Grecian, 180 feet long, and 60 wide,
and has in front a portico supported by four handsome
pillars. It was built in 1816, at the cost of £12,250.
The institution was founded in 1695, for the benefit
of daughters of merchant burgesses in Edinburgh ;
and originated in voluntary contributions ot the citi-
zens, in a considerable grant by the company of mer-
chants, and in a donation of property of the value of
12,000 merks by Mrs. MaryErskine, the widow of an
Edinburgh druggist. In 1707, the contributors ob-
tained from parliament an act of incorporation. Be-
fore the erection of the present edifice, the inmates
were lodged in a large tenement in Bristo-street.
From 80 to 100 girls are maintained at one time on
the foundation ; they enter from 7 to 11 years of age,
and depart at 1 7 ; they receive an education both
substantial and ornamental ; and, when leaving, each
is presented with £9 6s. 3d The Trades' Maiden
hospital stands on the south side of Argyll-square,
and is an edifice of plain exterior. The institution
was commenced in 1704, and obtained a charter of
incorporation in 1707. The girls eligible for admis-
sion are the daughters of decayed tradesmen ; they
are received at the same age, and have their atten-
tion directed to the same departments of education as
the inmates of the Merchant Maiden hospital; and,
when leaving, at the age of 17, each receives a Bible
and £5 lis. The charity was founded and endowed
by the incorporated trades of the city ; but was
greatly aided by Mrs. Mary Erskine, the benefactress
of its sister and more opulent institution.
The Orphan hospital is a handsome edifice, built
in 1833, at the cost of nearly £16,000, from a de-
sign by Mr. Hamilton ; and is situated at the north
end of Dean bridge, about 250 yards from Randolph-
crescent. The institution was founded by voluntary
contribution in 1733 ; and next year a large and com-
modious building, ornamented with a spire, was
erected in the hollow between the Old and the New
town, immediately east of the central arches of the
North-bridge. In 1742, the directors obtained an
act of incorporation. Orphans of both sexes are re-
ceived from all parts of Scotland, and are maintained
and educated to the number of about 150 at one time.
— John Watson's hospital is situated also near the
north end of Bean-bridge ; and was finished in 1828,
after a design by Mr. Burn. The edifice is of Gre-
cian architecture, large and showy, having in front a
splendid portico and range of pillars. About 120
destitute children are maintained and educated, — ad-
missible between 5 and 8 years of age. and dismissed
when 14. The course of education is substantial
and valuable, but not so extensive or of so lofty an
aim as that of Heriot's and George Watson's charities.
The institution originated in a bequest of John
Watson, a writer to the signet, which was obtained
in 1759, and which amounted, in 1781, to £4,721
5s. 6d., but eventually accumulated to upwards of
£90,000. — Donaldson's hospital was provided for by
a bequest of £240,000, burdened only with some
unimportant annuities, by James Donaldson, Esq., a
citizen of Edinburgh, who died in 1830.
Trinity hospital, situated at the foot of Leith-
wynd, on the west side, is the oldest charitable in-
stitution in the metropolis. The original edifice was
on the east side of Leith-wynd, and at a remote date
became ruinous, and was demolished. The present
building was anciently the residence of the provost
and prebendaries of Trinity College church ; and,
though repaired and somewhat altered, is a fine
specimen of the architecture and monastic accommo-
dations of the age in which it was erected. It is two
stories high, and forms two sides of a square, or
rather of a parallelogram. Along the interior of the
upper story of the longer side runs a gallery about
half the width of the house, lighted from the west,
serving at once as a promenade, a library-room, and
a grand corridor, and winged with a range of small
cots, each of which has a bed, a table, and a chair,
for a single occupant. The other parts of the build-
EDINBURGH.
451
ing are distributed into sitting-rooms, modern bed-
rooms, and otter apartments. The hospital was
founded and amply endowed by Mary of Gueldres,
consort of James II. What became of the bedes-
men who occupied it in the times of popery, or how
they were situated as inmates, does not appear. At
the Reformation the hospital shared, for a season,
the fate of institutions of a similar origin ; but was
repurchased, for its original purposes, by the town-
council in 1585, and afterwards confirmed in its
rights by a deed of James VI. Upon its resettle-
ment it was destined for the support of decayed bur-
gesses of Edinburgh, their wives, and their unmarried
children, not under 50 years of age. At first only 5
men and 2 women were admitted ; but in 1 700 the
number of inmates had increased to 54. During
half-a-century past about 20 men and 20 women
have usually been at one time on the foundation ;
the sexes having distinct accommodations and sitting-
rooms, and meeting only at meals and at morning and
evening worship. But there is always a considerable
body of out-pensioners, who receive an important
pittance toward their support. The charity is man-
aged by the magistrates and town-council as gover-
nors, and by a regular body of office-bearers and
house-directors.
Gillespie's hospital is salubriously situated in an
extensive park at the head of the Town-links, near
the south-west extremity of the Old town. The
edifice is a commodious, oblong, elegant structure ;
partly in a castellated form, having turrets at the
angles, and was built in 1801. The establishment is
fitted up for the accommodation and support of per-
sons of both sexes, not under 50 years of age, who
have sunk from wealth or competence to destitution ;
and admit* at one time about 50. In its vicinity is
a school, opened in 1803, for the education of about
150 boys, who are admissible from 6 to 12 years of
age. and are allowed to attend 3 years. Both insti-
tutions originated in a bequest by James Gillespie, a
tobacconist of Edinburgh, of £12,000, besides con-
siderable landed property. The governors are the
master and 12 assistants of the Merchant company,
some retired members of the magistracy, and 2 of the
city ministers, who have a charter of incorporation.
The sum of £2,000 was set aside from the entire
bequest for the support of the school.. — Cauvin's hos-
pital, though situated in a wholly landward parish,
may be viewed as one of the charities of the metro-
polis : see Duddingston Besides the charitable
institutions which have tenements classing as public
buildings, there are others, such as the House of Re-
fuge, the House of Industry, and the Old and the
New town Repositories, which appear to the public
eye only in connexion with the unobtrusive form of
private mansions or houses ; and a vast number of
others which have only some hired or even borrowed
room for the meetings of their committees, but are
of great value to the afflicted and indigent and friend-
less,— such as two societies for the relief of indigent
aged women, a society for the relief of indigent aged
men, a society for the relief of the destitute sick, and
a society for clothing the industrious poor.
Ecclesiastical Edifices.
Canongate church, situated on the north side of
the Canongate, several yards back from the street
line, has a cruciform shape, with nave, transepts,
and chancel. But though built in that form to hu-
mour the popish fancies of James VII., it is a pitiful
imitation of the ecclesiastical structures of a preced-
ing and less enlightened age. On the outside, it has
only a little ornament, and that in such poor taste
as to be almost a ludicrous apology for the obvious
want of means to attempt something more grand.
There is neither tower, spire, pinnacle, nor any piece
of adorning which can be called either Gothic or
Grecian. The street-front has considerably the ap-
pearance of a glazed gable, with a thing intended to
do service as a portico at the middle of the base.
On the pinnacle of this gable is the absurd orna-
ment of a horned deer's head, surmounted by a
cross, copied from the Canongate crest, and allusive
to a monkish fable respecting a miraculous cross
having been put into the hand of David I. when hunt-
ing the stag ; — the same cross or ' rood ' which gave
name to the neighbouring abbey and palace For
a long period, the parish of Canongate had for its
church the abbey-church of Holyrood. After being
ejected thence, in 1672, the parishioners were ac-
commodated, for about 15 years, in Lady Yester's
church. But having represented to James VII. that
20,000 merks had been bequeathed, in 1649, for
their use, they obtained possession of the sum, and
got the present edifice erected in 1688. The church
is surrounded by a small cemetery Trinity-col-
lege church, situated on the west side of the foot
of Leith-wynd, on the low ground between the Old
and the New town, dates as high as about 1470.
The building was never completed, and consists of
only the choir, central tower, and transepts of the
designed erection. An unfinished wall closes up the
area where the nave should have commenced. The
structure is in the finest style of Gothic; and, in
the interior, is seated only over the central area,
leaving the beautiful and massive pillars fully ex-
posed to view. On one of the buttresses are sculp-
tured the arms of Gueldres quartered with those of
Scotland. This church was founded by Mary of
Gueldres, consort of James II. Agreeably to her
deed of foundation, its chapter consisted of a pro-
vost, 8 prebendaries, and 2 choristers. Before the
Reformation, the place was called the Collegiate
church of the Holy Trinity ; but, since it became a
Presbyterian place of worship, it has usually been
styled the College kirk. — The Tron church stands
isolatedly at the intersection of High-street and
South Bridge-street, occupying the north-east angle
of the small area called Hunter's-square. Its main
front, presented to the High-street, and seen for
some way up the ascent of North Bridge- street, is
of pleasing appearance. In the middle is the base of
a square tower, ornamented with pilasters ; and
there are 4 semi-Gothic windows, and 3 door-ways.
The square tower was originally surmounted by a
curious wooden spire covered with lead ; but, this
having been wholly destroyed by the falling of em-
bers upon it in the great fire of 1824, the tower was,
in 1828, decorated and carried aloft with a handsome
spire of stone. The Tron church derived its humble
and malapropos name from its vicinity to the an-
cient Tron or public beam for weighing merchandise.
St. Giles' church, the most ancient existing ec-
clesiastical edifice in Edinburgh, but of unknown
or uncertain date, is situated on the north side of
Parliament-square, separating the area of that square
from High-street. Previous to 1830, during which
year, and the two following years, it was greatly
altered within, and rebuilt in its facings without, it
was of the cathedral or cruciform shape, Gothic,
but irregular in its architectural adornments, and un-
distinguished by the beauty of decoration and the sym-
metry of proportion found in many edifices of its age
and class. Its length was 206 feet ; and its breadth, at
the west end, 110 feet, — at the middle, 129, — and at
the east end, 76. From the centre rises a square
tower, decorated at the top with open-figured stone-
work, and sending off from its angles four arches
which have pinnacles in their progress, and a small
spire at their point of meeting, and produce the
452
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figure of an ornamented imperial crown. This figure
rises 161 feet above the base of the edifice, and, oc-
cupying a high and commanding site, is seen from a
great distance, and forms one of the most character-
istic features of the city landscapes of Edinburgh.
St. Giles is first, mentioned in a charter of David II.,
dated 1359. In 1466, it was made a collegiate
church, and contained about 40 altars dedicated to
different saints. After the Reformation, it was par-
titioned into four churches, and some lesser apart-
ments ; and put into repair by the proceeds of the
sale of vessels and paraphernalia belonging to its
numerous altars, and the pompous ceremonies of its
original worship. From 1633 to 1638 it was the
cathedral of the brief bishopric of Edinburgh ; and
it was the scene of the well-known cutty-stool ex-
ploit of Janet Geddes, which acted like a disturber
of the perilous equipoise on an Alpine summit and
sent down upon the whole episcopacy of Scotland
an enshrouding and entombing avalanche. In 1643,
the Solemn League and Covenant was sworn and
subscribed within the walls of St. Giles, by the re-
presentatives of the public bodies of Scotland. Near
the middle of its south side, are monuments over the
remains of Regent Murray and the great Marquis of
Montrose ; and under a window near the north-east
corner is the monument of Napier of Merchiston, the
inventor of logarithms. The edifice is now divided
into three parts, the High church, the Tolbooth
church, and a hall intended for the use of the Gen-
eral Assembly, but found, after its completion, to
be unsuitable. The recent changes were aided by a
government grant of £] 0,000, and effected after a
design by Mr. Burn, and have given the exterior a
very creditable appearance. The High church is at-
tended by the magistrates of the city, the judges of
the Court of session, and the barons of Exche-
quer, in their respective robes of office ; and, owing
probably to this circumstance — though on a strictly
ecclesiastical or presbyterial level with the other
parish-churches of the country — it holds a place in
popular estimation, and invests its ministers with a
species of influence, as the metropolitan church of
Scotland, — the St. Paul's of Edinburgh.
Greyfriars' church, Old and New, situated in a
recess from Candlemaker-row, immediately north of
the city Poor's-house, is externally a plain, slated,
oblong structure, with Gothic windows, and inter-
nally a place of Gothic construction, with heavy pil-
lars and arches. The entrance to both is by a com-
mon porch in the centre. Old Greyfriars' church
was built in 1612, and was adorned with a spire ; but,
in 1718, the steeple was blown up by the ignition of
a quantity of gunpowder which had been lodged in
it by the authorities of the city. The town-council
resolved, instead of re-edifying the towering ap-
pendage of the church, to add, by elongation, a new
place of worship. This, constructed uniformly with
the Old, was finished in 1721. In 1638, the Na-
tional Covenant was partly subscribed within the
walls of the Old church. Greyfriars is remarkable
chiefly for its cemetery. Attached to an ancient
monastery of Greyfriars, situated on the south side
of the Grassmarket, was some fine garden-ground,
rising gently to the summit of the southern emi-
nences of the city ; and the monastery having been
demolished in 1559, this ground was bestowed by
Queen Mary to be used as a place of public inter-
ment. This cemetery has ever since been the prin-
cipal one of Edinburgh ; and, though embellished
with few monuments of architectural or sculptural
merit, contains the ashes of many distinguished Scot-
tish characters. — Lady Yester's church, situated on
the north side of Infirmary-street, is a plain but
agreeable-looking edifice, without a spire. Dame
Margaret Ker, Lady Yester, founded the original
building, the predecessor of the present, in 1647, and
gave the magistrates 15,000 merks to defray its cost,
and aid its support. A small cemetery which for-
merly belonged to it is now covered with buildings.
— Newington church, situated on the west side of
Clerk-street, has a Grecian front, and a spire 110
feet high. The building is 162 feet long and 73
wide ; and chaste though not showy in appearance,
is principally remarkable for its being the first public
edifice which meets a stranger's eye on the thorough-
fare to the west of England, and central part of the
south of Scotland St. Paul's church, situated in
St. Leonard's-street, though a new building, has a
heavy and parsimonious aspect, — indicating a struggle,
on the part of its originators, between regard to li-
mitation of means, and desire to render the edifice
not unworthy of the city Nicolson-street chapel,
belonging to the United Secession, presents to the
street a showy Gothic front, with pinnacles rising
90 feet above street-level. The arch of the door-
way is Saxon, and springs from two sculptured human
heads Co wgate chapel, originally Episcopalian, but
now United Secession, has in its interior some oil
paintings by Runciman.
St. Cuthbert's church, situated in the hollow un-
der the north-west face of the castle, a little inward
from the angle of Prince's-street and Lothian road,
is a huge plain edifice, with a double slated roof;
and is redeemed, in the ungainliness of its aspect,
only by a lofty handsome spire, rising at its west
end, and erected some years later than the church.
The interior is very spacious, and fitted up with
double galleries. Around the building is an exten-
sive cemetery. The original St. Cuthbert's church
is older than Scottish record, — perhaps as old as the
age succeeding the demise of St. Cuthbert, the end
of the 7th century. It had several grants before the
date of the charter of Holyrood ; and, with its par-
ish and kirk-town and rights, was granted by David
I. to the monks of that abbey. St. Cuthbert's was
not only the oldest parish in the lowlands of Mid-
Lothian, but the most extensive; and it was the
most opulently endowed in Scotland, except that of
Dunbar : see St. Cuthbert's St. John's Epis-
copal chapel is situated a few yards north of St.
Cuthbert's, in the angle formed by the intersection
of Prince's-street and Lothian road. This is the
most splendid ecclesiastical structure in Edinburgh,
embellished within and without with all the graces
of the florid Gothic order. The building is 113 feet
long, and 62 feet wide. On both sides are buttresses,
the summits of which and of the inner wall are
adorned with pinnacles. From the western end rises
a square tower, perforated at the base with the main
entrance, relieved in its sides by beautiful windows,
and terminating at its summit, 120 feet high, in or-
namented pinnacles. The entrance, also in the
Gothic style, is exquisitely arched. The pillars and
arches of the interior are light and symmetrical, and
the middle roof is ornamented with mouldings and
a profusion of decorations. The great window in
the east end is 30 feet high, and painted with
figures of the apostles in stained glass. Beneath
the chapel are vaults ; and around it is a small ceme-
tery. Attached to its east end is a vestry externally
in keeping with the main building. The chapel be-
longs to the Scottish Episcopal body, and, being the
scene of episcopal ordinations, is viewed in the light
of a cathedral -St. Patrick's chapel, belonging to the
Roman Catholics, and situated in Lothian road, is a
showy Gothic edifice.
St. George's church, situated on the north side ol
Charlotte-square, is, as to its architecture, a debated
object among critics, — denounced by some aB shape-
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4b'.i
less and insufferably dull, and panegyrized by others
as the most handsome place of -worship belonging to
the Scottish Establishment. The edifice is square,
and in a massive Grecian style. Its front, 112 feet
in length, presents to the eye a lofy portico, supported
by four pillars and two pilasters of the Ionic order.
From the summit rises a circular tower, surmounted
by a lead-covered dome, to the height of 150 feet.
This feature of the edifice was designed as a mimic
resemblance of the dome of St. Paul's in London ;
but far surpasses the excellences of a miniature imi-
tation, and attracts the eye, and challenges admira-
tion, from many points of view in the metropolis,
but especially when so grouped as to appear on the
background St. Andrew's church, situated on the
north side of George-street, is of an oval form, and
was originally without a spire. Its present front
gives to the view a portico resting on four remark-
ably elegant Corinthian pillars, and surmounted by a
spire which tapers aloft to the height of 168 feet.
The spire is not only the finest in Edinburgh — which
it might well be, and still possess an outline or orna-
ments of somewhat equivocal attractions — but one of
the most beautiful in the sky-line of any city The
United Secession chapel, Rose-street, is a handsome
building in the Grecian style St. Stephen's church,
situated at the end of Fettes-row, fronting the line
of St. Vincent-street, is of an order of architecture
called the mixed Roman. From an obtuse angle in
front rises a massive tower 163 feet high, terminated
by a balustrade ; and from each angle of the balus-
trade springs an elegant double cross. But what-
ever attractions to the taste, or challenges to criti-
cism, the edifice offers to the view, are in a great
measure marred by the lownessof its situation, over-
looked by the ascent of the whole of the northern
New town, and part of the southern toward the sum-
mit on the line of George-street.
St. Mary's church, situated in the centre of Belle-
vue crescent, is of an oblong form, having one of the
shorter ends as its front. A range of elegant Corin-
thian pillars supports a pediment, and bears aloft a
high spire of considerable beauty. But the spire, at
first square and afterwards circular, is hurriedlv closed
in at the top ; and though elegant in its details, fails,
even when aided by the fine portico on which it rests,
to convey to a tasteful observer a feeling of un-
mingled pleasure The United Secession jiapel,
Broughton-place, is in the Grecian style, anS has a
beautiful portico supported by a range of Doric col-
umns The Roman Catholic chapel, Broughton-
street, presents to the view a Gothic gable with but-
tresses and pinnacles, winged by side-pieces of kindred
architecture. But the sides of the exterior betray
the union of prevailing poverty with the wish for
display which struggled to decorate the front. The
building is 110 feet long and 57 wide within walls;
and lifts the pinnacles of its front to the height of
70 feet. The interior is, on the whole, plain, with-
out attempt to fulfil the promise made by the Gothic
architecture of the exterior; and furnitured more in
accommodation to limited pecuniary means, and the
severe taste of the Protestant onlooking community,
than to the ceremonial pomp and the earthly opulence
of its ritual. — St. Paul's Episcopal chapel, situated
on the- south side of York-place, in the angle formed
by it and Broughton-street, is an elegant Gothic
structure. It consists, like St. John's, of a main
body and side buttresses, measuring in all 123 feet
long, and 73 feet wide. From each of the four angles
of the inner walls, rises a small circular turret of open
stone-work ; and surmounting the outer buttresses
are symmetrical pinnacles. The general aspect boldly
challenges admiration ; but is much impaired by the
near pressure of street-lines of houses, occasioning a
very limited field of view.
In addition to the ecclesiastical edifices which have
been noticed, are two or three quoad sacra parish-
churches, and not a few chapels belonging to various
bodies of Dissenters, which, though of creditable
architecture, and not unworthy of the localities
which they occupy in the metropolis, possess no
remarkable or distinctive features. Such notices of
them as are of any importance will be found in our
summary of the ecclesiastical statistics of the city.
But before passing from the topic of ecclesiastical
edifices we must notice some now defunct, which
made a prominent figure at a former period.
The Collegiate church of St. Mary in the Fields
was situated on the ground now covered by the uni-
versity, or probably a little to the southward, very
nearly on the site of the present Relief chapel in
South College-street. Attached to it were a pre-
vost and 10 prebendaries. From its originally stand-
ing beyond the city- walls, though afterwards included
within them, it was called the Kirk-of-Field, — the
name by which principally it is known in history.
Within the church was held the celebrated assembly
of Scottish ecclesiastics, convoked by Bagimont the
papal nuncio, for the purpose of ascertaining the
value of benefices throughout the country. The
valuation made by this assembly was made the stand-
ard at Rome for taxing the ecclesiastics of Scotland,
and, under the name of Bagimont 's roll, is a standard
authority with historians in glancing at the financial
matters of the Scottish ante-Reformation establish-
ment. The prevost house connected with the Kirk-
of-Field has been rendered immortally infamous in
history as the scene of the murder of Darnley The
monastery of Blackfriars was instituted by Alexander
II., in 1230, and stood within the grounds of the
Kirk-of-Field, on tie site of the Old High school.
The gardens around it occupied the whole space on
the south side of the Cowgate, between the Plea-
sance and Potterrow. The monks received also
from the royal founder of their convent a piece of
ground long since covered with buildings, and along
which extends the narrow street appropriately called
Blackfriars-wynd. The monastery had frequently
as a resident within its walls the person of its foun-
der; and, in consequence, came currently to be called
' Mansio Regis,' the king's dwelling-house. A build-
ing belonging to the monks was an episcopal resi-
dence of the archbishop of St. Andrew's which not
long ago could be traced in Blackfriars-wynd. In
1528 the monastery was destroyed by fire ; and it
was hardly re-edified, when, along with its appurten-
ances, it was swept away by the Reformation. The
lands belonging to it were bestowed by Queen Mary
upon the magistrates for building an hospital and
supporting the poor ; and, under James VI., they
were disposed of in feus, and the proceeds appbed to
the building and endowing of Trinity hospital The
monastery of Greyfriars, situated on the south side
of the Grassmarket, nearly opposite the West-bow,
was established by James 1. The house was so
splendid that the first monks, invited from Cologne
in Germany, refused for a while to enter it, and were
with difficulty prevailed upon to adopt it as their
abode. Around it were spacious gardens, which
afterwards became the site of the existing Greyfriars
church East of the convent of Greyfriars was an
hospital of remote but unknown antiquity, called
Mason Dieu. This structure having, at the begin-
ning of the 16th century, become ruinous, a citizen
erected beside it a chapel and hospital dedicated to
St. Mary Magdalene. This foundation was designed
to accommodate a chaplain and 7 poor men ; but it
454
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was endowed with a pitiful annuity, and vested in
trust with the corporation of hammermen, — whose
poor still reap the benefit of its funds. The chapel
still exists ; and, though very small, is let and occu-
pied as a place of worship About the middle of
Niddry-street was a chapel dedicated to God and the
Virgin Mary, and founded in 1505 by Elizabeth,
Countess of Ross. The corporations of wrights and
masons, in 1618, acquired a right to it, and, in con-
sequence, assumed the name of the united corpora-
tions of St. Mary's chapel Near the head of St.
Mary's- wynd, on the west side, were a chapel and
convent of Cistertian nuns, and a hospital dedicated
to the Virgin Mary. From the last the narrow street
has its name In Leith-wynd an hospital for the
support of 12 poor men was founded in 1479, by
Thomas Spence, bishop of Aberdeen, and dedicated
to the Virgin Mary. At the Reformation it passed
into the possession of the town-council, obtained the
unaccountable name of Paul's work, and was con-
verted first into a workhouse, next into a house of
correction, and next into a broad-cloth factory. Its
name of Paul's work is bequeathed to a court and
cluster of buildings on and around its site A little
north of Paul's work, on the face of the bank lead-
ing up to the New town, stood a chapel dedicated to
St. Ninian, which, till a recent date, gave to the
thoroughfare of Low Calton the name of St. Nin-
ian's-row. — On the west side of the foot of Canon-
gate, immediately adjoining the Watergate, was an
hospital, founded in the reign of James V., by George
Crichton, bishop of Dunkeld, and dedicated to God,
the Virgin Mary, and all saints. This was a founda-
tion of great celebrity ; and, besides lodging and sup-
porting 7 poor men, provided out-door allowance to
30 poor persons, and a salary to two chaplains to offi-
ciate at the altars of St. Andrew and St. Catherine
in the chapel of Holyrood. In 1617 the magistrates
of Canongate purchased it from the chaplains and
bedesmen, and converted it, under the new name of
St. Thomas' hospital, into a lodging-house for their
poor ; and in 1634 they sold it to the kirk-session,
to be still used as an hospital. Eventually it suffered
an embezzlement of its entire revenues, and, for 30
years before being pulled down, in 1778, was con-
verted into coach-houses Immediately without the
city- wall, at the east end of Drummond-street, stood
a nunnery, dedicated to St. Mary of Placentia. A
corruption of its designation survives in the name
Pleasance, borne by the street which sweeps past its
site On the east side of the road to Dalkeith stood
a chapel and an hospital dedicated to St. Leonard.
The lands belonging to them were granted by James
VI. to the magistrates of Canongate as an endowment
to St. Thomas' hospital. The name survives in
various localities adjacent to the site On the east
side of Newington stood a chapel of Knights Tem-
plars. Its site, a rising ground, or slight eminence,
is called Mount Hooly, a corruption of Mount Holy,
or the Holy Mount. About a century ago, when the
ground was dug up, several bodies were found, cross-
legged and accoutred with swords South of the
Meadows, not far from Grange-house, was a convent
of Dominican nuns, founded by the Lady St. Clair
of Roslin, and dedicated to St. Catherine of Sienna.
A low shapeless ruin still remains, and gives the
name Sheens, corrupted from Sienna or Siensis, to a
district around it South-west from the Grange, on
the west end of Borough-moor, stood a large chapel,
dedicated to St. Roque. Around it was a cemetery
which the citizens of Edinburgh used for about two
centuries, and which was the chosen place of inter-
ment for persons who died of epidemics East of
the chapel of St. Roque was another dedicated to
St. John Ihc Baptist. — In the suburb of Portsburgh
was a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, which
gave to the thoroughfare on which it stood the name
of Chapel- wynd Near the base of the north side of
Arthur's-seat stood the chapel and hermitage of St.
Anthony. The site, though in the immediate neigh-
bourhood of a populous city, is still remarkably se-
questered, and almost as solitary as a spot in a pas-
toral or Highland seclusion. The cell of the hermi-
tage still remains, 16 feet long, 12 broad, and 8 high.
The rock rises within 2 feet of the stone arch which
forms its roof, and overlooks a beautiful crystal rill
celebrated in an old Scottish ballad. Nine yards east
of the hermitage stood the chapel. This was a beau-
tiful Gothic building, 43 feet long, 18 wide, and 18
high. At its west end rose a tower, 19 feet square,
and 40 feet high At the north-east base of Calton-
hill a Carmelite monastery or friary was erected in
1526; but it was destroyed at the Reformation.
On its site was built an hospital for lepers, subject
to regulations which evince both the frequent pre-
valence of leprosy in a former age, and the great
dread in which the distemper was held. At the
angle of Leith-wynd and Canongate still stands the
house which was occupied as a residence by John
Knox, and from a window of which he frequently
preached to street-congregations. On one of its
corners is a sculptured representation of the re-
former in the attitude of preaching The most
celebrated of all the defunct ecclesiastical edifices of
Edinburgh, is Holyrood Abbey : which see.
Extinct Edifices, and Progress of Architectural
Improvement.
An account of defunct buildings not ecclesiastical
may advantageously take the form, to a large deT
gree, of an historical view of the architectural pro-
gress of Edinburgh. In 1450, James II. empowered
the magistrates to fortify the city with a wall, and
to levy contributions from the inhabitants for its
erection. The line of this wall, and that of its subse-
quent enlargements, affords ajoint view of the ancient
structures, and of the early extent and progress of
the city. A wall or defence, constructed before the
time ot James II., ran, on the west, almost directly
north from the reservoir in Castle-street or top of
High-street; it was then interrupted by the North
Loch, which served as a substitute, and probably the
wall was thence continued to the foot of Leith-wynd.
From xhe latter locality to the head of Canongate
or foot of High-street, an uninterrupted range of
houses on the west side, continued the line of de-
fence. The wall of James II. was strengthened at
the foot of the north-east rock of the Castle with a
small fortress ; it thence ran eastward along the
south side of the North Loch till it came nearly
opposite the reservoir; it then took a southerly
direction till it gained the summit of the hill ; and
it was there bored with a gate of communication
between the town and castle. The wall now ran
obliquely down the hill toward the south-east till it
arrived at the first turn in the descent of the West
Bow; and it was here perforated with a gate called
the Upper-Bow-port. From this gate it proceeded
nearly due east along the face of the ridge between
High-street and Cowgate, till it struck Gray's-close or
Mint-close; thence it debouched, north-eastward, till
it touched the High-street a little west of the head
of Leith-wynd; here, it was intersected by a gate
of communication between the city and Canongate;
and afterwards it went down the west side of Leith-
wynd, and then turned westward to make a junction
with its commencement at the north-east foot of the
Castle rock. The ancient city was thus shut up
within very narrow limits, and consisted of simply
the High-street and part of some of the alleys lead-
EDINBURGH.
455
ing from it, and the whole of others ; and was obliged
to acquire extension by lifting its buildings upward
in the air, rather than by the usual method of ex-
tending them along the surface, — especially as, while
its area was so small, the fashion of the age urged
multitudes of persons to seek residence within the
royalty. — In 1513 an extended wall was built. This
affected chiefly the southern district, and began at
the base of the south-east corner of the Castle rock;
it thence extended obliquely to the west end of the
Grassmarket, and was there intersected by the gate
called the West-port ; it now ascended part of the
hill called the High-riggs, and, turning eastward, ran
along the north side of the part of Heriot's hospital;
it next, on touching Bristo-street, debouched north-
ward, passing through part of what is now the ceme-
tery of Greyfriars ; it then turned eastward, leaving
openings for gates caUed Bristo-port and Potterow-
port, in the line of those streets ; it next went south-
ward, for a few yards, from Potterrow-port, and
then, making an abrupt turn, wended its way along
the south side of the present college, and the north
side of the present Drummond-street, till it touched
the Pleasance ; and it there debouched almost at a
right angle to the north, and thenceforth pursued its
way, intersected by Cowgate-port and St. Mary-
wynd-port, to the point of the original wall west of
the head of Canongate. Considerable parts of this
wall, especially where it touches Bristo-street, and
stretches along the north of Drummond-street, and
the west of the north end of Pleasance, still exist
The gate called the Netherbow, with which the
wall was pierced on its crossing the High-street,
stood originally about 50 yards west of the present
termination of High-street ; but, being found to oc-
cupy a position unfavourable to defence, was super-
seded, in 1571, by another, on the line of St. Mary's-
wynd and Leith-wynd, which was built by the
adherents of Queen Mary. A third, and very beau-
tiful gate, supplanted the latter in 1606, and was
reared on its site. This port was the principal en-
trance to the city, and has been rendered famous in
history by a bill, in consequence of the indignation
excited by what was called the Porteous' mob, hav-
ing passed parliament for razing it to the ground.
The buildings of the port went quite across the
High-street, and disappeared in the houses on the
sides. The gate was in the centre, perforating a
house-like structure of two stories high, springing
its arch from the summit of the lower story, and
surmounted by a handsome square tower, terminating
in battlements, and bearing aloft a tapering hexago-
nal spire. South of the gate was a wicket for foot-
passengers. But the whole structure, pursuant to
the decree of parliament, was pulled down in 1764.
At the foot of Leith-wynd was a gate called Leith-
wynd-port; beside which was a wicket giving access
to Trinity college church A wall also was thrown
round the Canongate; and on the east was perforated
with a gate, still in existence, called the Watergate.
. — From confinement in space, and in imitation of
the Scottish nation's allies, the French, the houses
of ancient Edinburgh were piled to an enormous
height, rising, in many instances, to twelve stories.
The access to the separate lodgings in these huge
structures, called lands, was by common stairs, com-
bining the inconveniences of steepness, filth, and
darkness. — The earliest architecture of the city
consisted, as in other cotemporaneous burghs, of
domestic buildings only a degree superior to the pri-
mitive cottage, and presenting to the eye, at best, a
strongly built ground flat, with a frail superstructure
of timber, and a front garniture of a balcony or open
gallery. A second stage of the city's architecture
exhibited houses of three stories, the first of stone,
I and the second and third of timber. A third stage
I improved upon the second, simply in constructing
I all the stories of stone, and occasionally aspiring to
a fourth story of the same material. A "fourth stage,
overpowered by an influx of inhabitants, and pent in
by walls which assigned it a very limited area, sprung
aloft like the lark into the air, and sought those
enjoyments in aspiring towards the clouds which
could not be obtained by an attempt to move along
the surface. A fifth stage, incomparably the bright-
est and most brilliant of them all, burst the cere-
ments of the ancient walls, and walked forth in
architectural life and beauty, constructing the North
bridge and the South bridge as media of extension
towards the wide fields north and south of the hill-
ridge of the original site, conjuring up the southern
Newtown between 1774 and 1790, completing the
northern New town between 1801 and 1826, branch-
ing off into the most splendid part of the Eastern
| New town between 1813 and 182S, shooting away
into the Western New town between 1823 and 1830,
and luxuriating in all directions round the ancient
city with the freedom of movement and the gaudi-
ness of attire indicative of transition from slavery to
freedom, or from incarceration to the breathing of
the open air, and the surveying of the joyous scenes
of one of the most beautiful landscapes in the world.
But the improvements on Edinburgh, especially
the last and the long one, were not unattended by
demolitions of important or interesting buildings.
The demolished erection which of all others is the
most regretted, and, if allowed to remain, would
have continued to be the most beautiful and orna-
mental, was the Cross, situated on the High-street,
a little below St. Giles. This was a structure of
mixed architecture, partly Grecian and partly Gothic,
octagonal in form and 16 feet in diameter; and after
rising about 15 feet in height, it shot aloft from its
centre an octagonal pillar equal in height to itself,
and surmounted by an unicorn embracing an upright
spear of nearly twice its own length. At each angle
of the main building was an Ionic pillar projecting
at the top into a species of Gothic bastion ; and be-
tween the pillars, before being surmounted by the
bastions, were modern arches. Over the arches, in
the spaces between the bastions, heads were sculp-
tured in the manner of a modern medallion; and
over that which fronted the eastern part of the
High-street were sculptured in alto relievo the city-
arms. The access to the building was by a door
which fronted the Netherbow, and gave ingress to
a staircase leading to the platform on the summit.
The pillar which rose from this platform was 18
inches in diameter, and had a Corinthian capital,
spangled with thistles. The Town-council of the
day,— proving themselves to be of the same kidney
as the Mohammedan destroyers of the Alexandrian
library, the Goth and Vandal desolators of Rome,
and the plodding "turn the penny" speculators,
once potato-fed weavers, but eventually monied,
opulent, and signally illiterate and self-conceited
"practical men" of a manufacturing town, — conceived
the beautiful cross — such a structure as their booby
heads could not have devised in a millennium — to be
an obstruction in the thoroughfare of the High-street,
where a dozen structures of its bulk might have
stood without molesting even the ten thousand
carters of Glasgow, had it been placed in that
noisiest of all other cities, and much less the few
carriage and cab-drivers of Edinburgh; and, in 1756,
it was ordered to be pulled down. The demolishers
believed, very justly, that they were working for a
name among posterity ; and they have fully obtained
what they sought, though of very different quality
from what they desired, their coffins being lodged on
456
EDINBURGH.
shelf next in the height of ingloriousness to that
which exhibits to the view the remains of him who
fired the temple of Ephesus. "With strange per-
versity of taste, a huge misshapen hulk of a build-
ing, erected in the reign of Charles II., which served
as a guard-house to the military police, and had at
the west end a dungeon or blackhole for the incar-
ceration of the unruly, and which was situated on
the south side of Upper High-street, was allowed
to incumber the thoroughfare more than 30 years
after the demolition of the elegant cross.. — At the
head of the Lawn-market, or foot of Castle-street,
formerly stood a public Weigh-house, rearing aloft
a neat spire. When this erection and the Netherbow
and the cross existed, their spires combined with
those of St. Giles and the Tron-church, to give the
line of High-street an appearance of city architec-
tural decoration greatly superior to what it now
possesses. But for some surpassingly strange reason,
which is not recorded, the Weigh-house was, about
1666, denuded of its spire, and left, in the naked
clumsiness and deformity of its hulk, to disfigure the
thoroughfare till 1822 The principal incumbrance
to the High-street was a range of buildings, called
the Luckenbooths, rising to nearly the height of the
houses on the street-line, stretching parallel with
the side of St. Giles, and terminating at the west
end in the Old tolbooth of the city. A lane for
foot-passengers ran between the Luckenbooths and
St. Giles, and was lined on both sides with small
shops, — those on the south side adhering like ex-
crescences to the ecclesiastical edifice, and bearing
the odd name of the Krames. From the east end of
this lane, a flight of steps led off past St. Giles ; and
from a statue of the Virgin Mary being placed in a
niche on the side, was called St. Mary's steps. The
Luckenbooths were built to serve as warehouses or
shops, probably as early as during the reign of James
III. ; and the Krames began to be erected in 1555 ;
and both, along with the Tolbooth, were pulled
down in 1817, — their demolition laying the north
front of St. Giles fully open to the view, and con-
verting the Old High-street and the Lawn-market
into a continuous and uniform thoroughfare The
Old Tolbooth, coeval with the Luckenbooths, was
originally used for the confinement of prisoners, for
the shops of tradesmen, for the courts of the burgh,
and even for the meetings of parliament. But after
1640 it was wholly distributed, on the ground-floor,
into shops, and, on the other floors, into the apart-
ments of a prison. The building consisted of two
parts : the eastern was a square tower, with a spiral
stair, and was closely akin in structure to the nu-
merous strongholds which dotted the border-counties,
and were used as residences and rallying-points by
the reavers of a marauding age ; the western part
was a parallelogram of ruble-work, and of later ori-
gin than its curious companion. In the tower were
first a large room for the use of incarcerated debtors,
next and higher up apartments for the confinement
of criminals, and over the top of all a strong box for
the safe custody of an important and peculiarly dan-
gerous felon. The parallelogram was distributed
into apartments for debtors. The Old Tolbooth,
under a quaint name popularly applied to it, furnished
at once title, incidents, and graphic materials to the
novel which more than any other of his produc-
tions gave celebrity to Sir Walter Scott, — that of
' The Heart of Mid-Lothian.' — In a small park
through which Nicolson-street was cut, stood a pil-
lar to the memory of Lady Nicolson. It was a very
neat and chaste fluted Corinthian column, rising 30
or 40 feet from a pedestal which bore an appropriate
inscription. When the improvements of the South
bridge extension were made, it was ' underfootcd,
and in that state it remained for many years at the
north end of Nicolson-street ; but it was eventually
removed in some manner unrecorded, and was not
long ago seen as a piece of lumber in the Riding-
school One of the earliest erections of the New
town was Shakspeare-square, which closed up the
east end of Prince's-street, and overhung the ravine
of Low-Calton. About the middle of the east side,
looking down Prince's-street, was the Shakspeare-
tavern and Coffee-house, which was the resort of the
elite, and the most celebrated house of its class in
Scotland. The whole square was ploughed down
by the improvements of the eastern approach along
Waterloo-place.
Civil and Ecclesiastical Courts.
Edinburgh is distinguished as the seat of a com-
plete establishment for the administration of justice.
Some officers of state, such as the Keeper of the
Great seal, the Lord-privy-seal, the Lord-clerk-
register, the Lord-justice-general, and the officers o''
the mint, do not necessarily reside in the city, and
have either merely nominal duties, or such as are
performed by deputies. But the Lord-advocate is an
important functionary, and combines in himself a
variety of high powers : he performs the functions
both of public prosecutor and of grand-jury; he can
seize any suspected person without needing to name
his informer, — can give liberty to an accused person
at any period previous to trial, — and can interfere,
even after trial, to avert capital punishment ; he is
the confidential counsel of the Crown in the national
affairs of Scotland ; he oversees and watches the
whole country as to the conservation of its peace,
and presides over or affects its entire executive ; and
as his functions are so numerous, he delegates a por-
tion of his power to a number of deputies The
Court of Session is the supreme civil court of Scot-
land,— a court both of law and of equity, and pos-
sesses discretionary power. In fact, the business of
this court comprises all that, in England, occupies the
court-of-chancery, — the vice-chancellor and the mas-
ter-of-the-rolls, — the courts of Queen's bench, and
of common pleas and exchequer, — the court of ad-
miralty (with the exception of prize cases), the
court of Doctor's commons, and the court of bank-
ruptcy. [Evidence of G. J. Bell, Esq. before the
Select committee on Supreme courts of judicature
in Scotland, in April 1840.] — The Court of Session
at present consists of 13 judges. The Lord-presi-
dent and 3 senior puisne judges form what is termed
the First division of the court; the Lord-justice-
clerk and 3 senior puisne judges form the Second
division of the court ; and these two divisions are
termed 'the Inner house.' The remaining 5 puisne
judges officiate in what is called 'the Outer house'
as Lords-ordinary, each sitting singly ; the last ap-
pointed of those judges being more particularly occu-
pied during the period of session in what is termed
' the Bill-chamber,' or in those proceedings, of the
nature of injunction or stay of process, which re-
quire the more summary interposition of the court.
The great majority of cases — all cases indeed, with
a few exceptions not worth mentioning here — are
brought in the first instance, and in their earliest
stage, before one or other of the Lords-ordinary ;
the record is made up before him, and under his
superintendence, and the case prepared for deci-
sion. It is then argued before him, and, in gen-
eral, decided by him. From his judgment there lies
an appeal to the Inner house, in one or other of its
divisions. The judgment of the division is final,
subject only to appeal to the House of Lords.
There is no appeal from one division to the other,
nor from one division to the whole court. But
EDINBURGH.
4o7
either division may require the opinion of the other
judges ; in which case, judgment is given according
to the opinion of the majority of the whole court.
The party who comes into court as plaintiff has it
in his power to select, not only the Lord-ordinary
before whom the cause shall in the first instance
proceed, but also the division by which the judgment
of the Lord-ordinary, if appealed from, shall be re-
viewed. The two divisions of the court, it may be
proper to observe, are thus in all respects of equal
and co-ordinate jurisdiction. The same may be said
of the Lords-ordinary, with the exception of a few
cases reserved for the exclusive determination of the
Inner house; each Lord-ordinary having in himself,
for the decision of the cases before him, the full
jurisdiction of the court of session, and bis judg-
ment, if not brought under review of the Inner
house, becoming the judgment of the court, not sub-
ject to appeal even to the House of Lords, which is
only permitted when judgment has been given by
the court of session in one of its inner chambers.
The court thus constituted has, in virtue either of
original or appellate jurisdiction, cognizance of all
civil causes and matters, with the exception of those
only which are reserved for the Small Debt courts,
and of the revenue cases which are reserved for Ex-
chequer. It were unnecessary, perhaps, to enter
more minutely into the limits of its jurisdiction, but
it may be proper to mention that the jurisdiction is
exclusive as regards all questions of real property, and
as to all other questions is subject only to this limi-
tation, that no case under £'25 value can be brought
before it originally. Recent statutes, by abolishing
the courts of admiralty and the consistory courts,
have thrown into the court of session the whole
business which came before those courts respectively.
But besides this, though the court of exchequer still
remains as a separate jurisdiction, its judicial busi-
ness is now discharged by two judges of the court
of session, sitting as barons of exchequer. A far
more important duty, and one of great labour and
responsibility, devolves upon the Lord-president, as
Lord-justice-general, and the Lord-justice-clerk,
and 5 puisne judges of the court of session under a
separate commission, by which there is conferred
upon them supreme criminal jurisdiction. The court
of justiciary sits as occasion requires, in Edinburgh,
for despatch of business, embracing there the crimi-
nal business of the three Lothians, with such cases
as, from their importance or other reason, are brought
to Edinburgh for trial. In each year, during the
vacations of the court of session, there are three
spring-circuits and three autumn-circuits, with an
additional winter-circuit for Glasgow. The business
of the court of exchequer, and, during vacation, the
business of the Bill-chamber department of the court
of session, which require constant attendance, are
discharged in rotation by those judges of the court
of session who are not included in the commission
of the court of justiciary. In enumerating the whole
business thus devolving on the supreme judges of
Scotland, the business of the Teind court (embracing
all questions as to the modification of stipends to the
clergy, and the respective liabilities of the parties sub-
ject to the payment of stipend) must not be over-
looked, nor the still more important duty of presid-
ing in the trial of civil cases by jury, where under
recent statutes that course of procedure is resorted to.
— The Faculty of Advocates consists of between 400
and 500 barristers, who have the privilege of pleading
before the supreme courts. Their affairs are pre-
sided over by a dean, and managed by a council, a
treasurer, and a clerk; and are subject to the autho-
rity of the Court of Session. Every candidate for
membership is examined on the Roman and the Scot-
tish law, and must pay £100 toward the common
fund, and ;£100 toward the Advocates' bbrary.
Members of the Faculty alone are eligible to the
judgeships of the Court of Session, the sheriffships
of the Scottish counties, and several important offices
and dignities connected with the government. The
Faculty, till about the commencement of the present
century, was exclusive and aristocratic, requiring the
adventitious qualifications of rank and noted ancestry,
in addition to those which were strictly personal ;
but, though now more popular in constitution, and
looking only to the talents and the scholarship of its
members, it is probably the most influential body of
the metropolis, and everywhere commands respect.
A clerk, appointed by an advocate, is entitled, after
paying fees and being found qualified, to act as an
attorney in the supreme courts, and is called an ad-
vocate's first clerk The Faculty of Writers to the
Signet includes from 600 to 700 individuals, who are
entitled to act in the supreme courts, and have the
sole right of making documents valid by the signet
or seal of her majesty. They were originally and
literally clerks in the Secretary of state's office.
Their business was to record and issue writs passing
the signet, on which various proceedings took place.
They still receive commissions from the keeper of
the signet; but, though never erected into a corpor-
ation, it has been held that they have acquired the
rights and privileges of one by usage. Their advan-
tages over the notaries and lawyers' clerks arose from
their keeping together as a body. For a long period
after advocates' clerks were recognised as a sort of
solicitors, writers to the signet not only excluded
themselves, but were excluded by the court from
acting as agents. Tempted, however, by the grow-
ing emoluments of law-agency, and aided by qualifica-
tions superior, it is believed, to most of the advocates'
clerks, their interferences, originally surreptitious,
were at length acknowledged by the court, and their
commission as writers to the signet is now held to
authorize their acting also in the capacity of solicitors
before all our highest courts. Their pecufiar privileges
as writers to the signet are of a trifling nature ; and
their peculiar duties may also be understood in the
course of two months. Their library, however, is
valuable, and their corporation funds are extensive.
Their supporting a lecturer on conveyancing, and a
widow's scheme, add to their consequence The
solicitors before the supreme courts of Scotland are,
as agents, on a footing, in every respect, with writers
to the signet. The only distinction is, that the latter
had a connection with the court, as clerks to the sig-
net, before they had any connection with it as agents.
— The High court of Admiralty consisted, after the
Union, of a judge appointed by the Lord- vice-admiral
of Scotland, and functionaries of inferior jurisdiction
appointed by the judges ; and, in civil causes, it was
subject to review by the Court of Session. At pre-
sent the magistrates of Edinburgh have an admiralty
jurisdiction over the county of the city, and to the
midwaters of the frith of Forth, limited on the west
by a line drawn from Wardie Brow to the Mickrie
Stone ; and on the east by a line drawn from the ex-
tremity of the Pentland hills, through the mouth of
the river Tummel, to the middle of the frith east of
Inchkeith The Commissary court, or head consis-
torial court of Scotland, was, as to its business, nearly
all merged in the Court of Session in 1830. A power
of confirming the testaments of persons having pro-
perty in Scotland who die abroad, remains with the
officers of the defunct court, and when they die out,
will devolve to the sheriff of Edinburghshire Two
deputies perform some unimportant or comparatively
trivial duties of the Lyon-court, or, more strictly,
of the sinecure office of Lvon-king-at-arms The
458
EDINBURGH.
Sheriff-courts of the county are held in Edinburgh ;
but are not different from those of otber counties. —
The Convention of Koyal burghs, a court consti-
tuted in the reign of James III., meets annually in
Edinburgh, and is presided over by the Lord-provost
of the city The General Assembly of the Church
of Scotland holds a full meeting annually in May,
besides several meetings of its Commission. A
presbytery of fewer than 13 parishes, delegates to it
2 ministers and 1 elder ; a presbytery of fewer than
19, but more than 12, delegates 3 ministers and 1
elder ; a presbytery of fewer than 25, but more than
18, delegates 4 ministers and 2 elders ; a presbytery
of fewer than 31, but more than 24, delegates 5 min-
isters and 2 elders ; and a presbytery of more than
30, delegates 6 ministers and 3 elders. Each royal
burgh sends one member ; Edinburgh sends two ;
and each university sends one. The Assembly has
an ecclesiastical president or moderator, elected by
the votes of its members, and a civil president, or
overseer, the representative of her Majesty, or, as
he is called, the Lord-high-commissioner, appointed
by the Crown. The former is the real president,
acting very much as if the civil president did not
exist. The Commission of the Assembly consists
of a large portion of its members, who are in-
vested with all its ecclesiastical powers to despatch
business which cannot be overtaken during the 10
days of its full session, and to watch over the inter-
ests of the church throughout the country. The
General Assembly met in 1840, and several preceding
years, in the Tron church ; but, at that date, was in
the way to have a public building for its special use
erected. — The synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, and
the Established, United Secession, Relief, Reformed
Presbyterian, and Original Secession presbyteries of
Edinburgh, hold their meetings in the city The
synod of the United Secession church, or supreme
court of that ecclesiastical body, holds the majo'rity
of its meetings in Edinburgh, and, in 1840, and pre-
ceding years, assembled in their chapel of Broughton-
place The annual meetings of the Scottish Con-
gregational Union are usually held, on the alternate
year, in Argyle-square and Albany-street chapels
Edinburgh is the seat of a bishop of the Scottish
Episcopal church ; it is the residence also of a Roman
Catholic bishop.
Municipal Government, Sfc.
The city of Edinburgh is governed by a Lord-pro-
vost, magistrates, and council, who are elected ac-
cording to the provisions of the Burgh Reform act.
The Lord-provost is styled Right Honourable, is ex
officio High-sheriff of the royalty, and has precedence
of all official persons within his jurisdiction. The
magistracy consists of a lord-provost, a dean-of-
guild, a treasurer, and four bailies, each of whom is
ex officio a member of the council. The number of
councillors is 33. For the purposes of the election
the city is divided into wards or districts. The num-
ber of municipal electors in 1839 was 3,059. One-third
part of the councillors go out of office every year, but
are eligible for re-election. The provost, baihes, trea-
surer, and other office-bearers, are elected by the coun-
cillors. The provost's term of office is three years, and
he is eligible for immediate re-election. The other
office-bearers go out at the expiration of one year, and
cannot be re-elected until each shall have been out of
his particular office one year ; but this does not pre-
vent their being kept in the council from year to
year by their being elected to fill the different offices
in succession. Previous to the Burgh Reform act,
the corporation was of a close character, though not
altogether without an admixture of popular repre-
sentation. The return made to the house of com-
mons in 1793, describing the constitution as settled
by the authority of a decreet-arbitral of King James
VI., 1583; a decreet-arbitral of Lord Islay, 1729
-30, and two acts of council, 1658 and 1673, was
as follows : — " Council consists of 17 merchants,
6 deacons, and 2 trades' councillors, in all 25. These
shorten the leets for 14 deacons, and elect six of
them council deacons ; they may continue two years.
The 14 deacons are elected as follows : —Each cor-
poration or trade vote a list, or leet of six, which
they give in to the council, who return three of the
six for the election of a deacon, who is chosen by a
majority of the votes of the members of the respec-
tive corporations. The 25 members of council elect
three merchants' and two trades' councillors. The
old and new council, consisting of 30, leet for the
office-bearers, who are elected by them and the eight
deacons not of the council, making in all 38. There-
after the council consists, as formerly, of 25 ; but the
eight extra deacons have a vote in every case ex-
ceeding the value of £1 13s. 4d. The magistrates
consist of a lord-prdvost, dean-of-guild, and trea-
surer, each of whom may be re-elected for one year
more, and four bailies, who cannot be re-elected into
the same office the succeeding year ; and they must
be out of council one year before they can be put
in the leet for bailies ; each of these office-bearers
remains in council one year, ex officio, as councillors.
A bailie, though he cannot be re-elected until he be
out of council at least for one year, yet the sett
does not prevent his being kept in council a con-
siderable time, by being elected into other offices,
such as treasurer, dean-of-guild, and provost, one
after the other." — The magistrates possess very ex-
tensive jurisdiction, and of various kinds. Besides
the ordinary jurisdiction, civil and criminal, common
to royal burghs, and exercised in the bailie-court
over the royalty, the magistrates exercise, in the
same court, over the county of the city, which in-
cludes Canongate, Portsburgh, Leith, and New-
haven, the jurisdiction competent to sheriffs and jus-
tices of the peace. The magistrates also have a
jurisdiction as judges in the police court over a larger
territory than the royalty ; they delegate the juris-
diction of an inferior admiralty-court to the magis-
trates of Leith, and they annually nominate a council
to exercise with the dean-of-guild, the jurisdiction of
aguildry-courtoverthe ancient and extended royalties
and liberties. Besides the ordinary bailie-court,
where civil cases are tried according to the forms
observed in other burghs, there is a court called the
Ten merk court, in which cases not exceeding in
amount, lis. 1-fMl. sterling, (10 merks Scots,) and
cases as to servants' wages to any amount, are heard
and determined in a summary manner by the magis-
trates. The magistrates, as justices of the peace,
further, under a provision in the act 39 and 40 Geo.
III. c. 46. § 21 and 22, hold a court, called the Small
Debt court, for the county of the city, in which
cases under £40 Scots, or £3 6s. 8d. sterling, are
tried agreeably to the forms of the small Debt act.
Finally, the magistrates sit in a court usually known
by the name of the Council-chamber, which is
merely a branch of the bailie court. The distinction
between the bailie court and the council chamber is,
that the former sits weekly for the disposal of the
ordinary civil causes brought before it by summons,
while the latter is a daily court for disposing of sum-
mary applications by petition, as for removing, se-
questration, liberation on sick bills, aliment under
the act of grace, &c, and sometimes on matters of
contract The patronage of the town-council is very
extensive and valuable. They appoint 3 assessors,
2 principal town-clerks, a depute town-clerk, a
keeper of the council-records, a superintendent and
EDINBURGH.
459
an overseer of public works, a procurator-fiscal, a
chamberlain, town-officers, and some hundred other
civil functionaries, not only in the city, but in
Leith and Canongate, who have salaries and fees
amounting in the aggregate to an enormous sum.
The town-clerk of Leith is reported by the cor-
poration commissioners to have paid £1,200 as a
consideration for his office. The town-council ap-
point also to the majority of the chairs of the uni-
versity, and exercise considerable control over its
affairs ; and they are patrons of the 13 city parishes,
of Currie, Wemyss, and, alternately with the Earl
of Stair, of Fala, — of the High school, — of George
Heriot's hospital and schools, — and of various other
institutions not apparently of a civil character.
The affairs of Edinburgh have, during the present
century, been brought so frequently before the legis-
lature and the community, that it seems superfluous
to repeat the details of a system of mismanagement
which is terminated. There is not sufficient evi-
dence that the disastrous state of the city-affairs has
been caused by actual embezzlement or fraudulent
malversation. Exaggerated expectations of the con-
tinued and indefinite increase of the city in prosperity
and size may have led the managers of the corpora-
tion into an increase of expense far disproportioned
to the really considerable growth of the revenue ;
offices were multiplied, and salaries raised ; a spirit
of litigation prevailed, great profusion took place in
the expenses of civic parade and entertainments,
and extravagant sums were expended on public build-
ings and other public works, as ill-adapted in general
to their object of embellishing the city as they in-
variably were disproportioned to its finances. The
expense of law-proceedings for the city, for the
period from 1819 to 1832 inclusive, was £24,162;
and for the same period the expenses connected with
passing local acts of parliament amounted to £12, 156.
For the year 1819 the cost of city-entertainments
was £782. In 1820, £1,066; and the election din-
ner of the magistrates that year cost £533. In 1821
the amount of this branch of expense was £755.
St. George's church was built on a plan estimated
at £18,000, but cost £38,000. The new High
school was erected at an expense of £34,199, of which
£22,973 was defrayed by the city. This expensive
work was undertaken within a few years of the de-
claration of the insolvency of the city. A separate
account, under the head of Petty disbursements, was
in use to be kept, which averaged for the last five
years of the old regime about £1,200 per annum,
The expense of keeping up the causeways, repairs of
property, advances for college and churches, &c,
was merely stated as casual payments ; and when-
ever the expenditure exceeded the revenue, reference
was made to a large sum of casual payments which,
it was stated, would not likely occur again, although
they always did occur The city having become
insolvent as on the 1st of June, 1833, a statute was
passed in August 1833, conveying its whole pro-
perties and revenues, so far as legally liable for its
debts, and attachable by the diligence of its credi-
tors, to trustees. This conveyance does not include
the harbour of Leith. At that period the whole
heritable and moveable property of the city — exclu-
sive of the Leith dues, and of the value of the High-
school, the council chambers, the court-rooms at
Leith, and the church-patronage — amounted in value
to £271,657; and the debt to £407,181. The
revenue, exclusive of the Leith dues, wras £16,260.
In the article Leith will be found a view of the
financial affairs of the harbours and docks. It is suffi-
cient here to state that Government has a preferable
claim upon the whole duties which the city of Edin-
burgh derives from Leith — both •shore-dues and
dock-rates — for certain advances made from 1799 to
1825, amounting in all to £265,000. The terms of the
act of 1833, and, indeed, the nature of the obligations
which are implied in the gift of common property to a
burgh, have given rise to important and very difficult
questions between the creditors and the magistrates,
as to what part of the common good of the burgh is
attachable for its debts. Among several remarkable cir-
cumstances which have been developed by the publica-
tion of the city's accounts, one relating to a bequest ot
the late Dr. Bell, has drawn much attention and cen-
sure. Asumof£10,000 3 percent, stock having, from
Dr. Bell's fund for the advancement of education, been
placed in the hands of the magistrates and council in
trust, to apply the dividends to the support of a
school or schools in Edinburgh, on the Madras sys-
tem of training, the functionaries, pressed by the
claims of a clamorous creditor, disposed of the stock,
and applied the greater part of the proceeds to post-
pone the evil day of the city's insolvency In con-
formity with an act, 1st and 2d of Victoria, cap. 55,
the accounts of the city's revenue and expenditure
have been exhibited in two schedules, — the one of
the revenues which are wholly conveyed to the citv
creditors in security, and the other of customs and
market-dues, over which the creditors have a secu-
rity to the extent of £1,000.
Ab«»rart View of the Bevpime ai d Expenditure of Hie Corporation of Edinburgh— proper to tho period from 1st August
IS38 to ]»t August 1839, and comprised in Schedule A of the Act 1st and 2d Victoria, cap. 55, oier the wliole ol which
the security to the City creditor extends : —
ORDINARY REVENUE.
Composition Duties received from Vassals
Feu-Duties in the Extended Royalty .
Ancient Royalty .......
Ditto proper to 'Church Revenue . . . . .
I" Leith .......
Canongate ........
Pn-tshurgh .
Of the City's Mills . . . . . .
Rents and Tack-Duties, and Church Revenue
Seat Uents of the City Churches' Nett Revenue
A.-tricted Mulctures payable by Brewers . . .
Dues on Goods sent by the Union Canal
Annua! Allowance from the Edinburgh and Leilh Gas Cnmpanie
Annual Payments from Revenues of Leith Harbour and Docks*
Annual Paycneats Irom the Customs and Market Dues*
Arrears :it
1st August
1E38.
£ s. d.
0 0 0
3.S92 4 II
■ S65 3 3
157 11 II
218 16 3
63 S 7
0 0 0
475 I 4
0 0 0
0 0 II
0 0 0
30 0 0
0 0 0
0 0 0
Revenue
charged in [lie
period uf this Act.
£ .» <l.
1,172 4 10
5,815 5 8
J 1,615 II 4"?
I 40 12 1J
20 15 1
34 15 11
9 10 0
186 13 4
1,200 12 8
5,812 3 3
223 15 fi
4S5 17 7
30 0 0
2.521 14 5
793 3 0
Totals (FraclioDS omitted,) £5,800 6 5 £20,032 15 0
Overcharges and Abatements, £83 Ss. f>d — Arrears at 1st August 1839, £5,135 lCs. Sd.
Revenue received
in die period of
tliis Account.
£ s. ll.
1.172 4 10
6,315 11 7
1,737 15 S
10 14 6
•J7 14 0
0 14 5
174 3 4
1,203 3 0
5,812 3 3
223 15 e
495 17 7
ai o o
2,521 14 5
793 3 0
£20,608 15 10
• These 'nst two are proportions ol the Payments froni27i]| Jul; 1533 lo Whitsunday 1639-vu., of .£3,180, and j£l,0U0 respectively.
460
EDINBURGH.
Kelt Produce of the Ordinary Revenue, comprised In Sche-
dule A, after the deduction of preferable burdens and ex-
penses of management £1,978 ]fe lid. . £13,322 14 11
Payments in terms of the Act.
Paid to liferent annuitants by pur-
chase . . . £92S 4 6
Paid permanent annuities on bonds 11. 515 10 6
Salary to Clerk of Committee
of Creditors, &c.
£12,413 15 0
27 13 6
Leaving a nett surplus on ordinary reve-
nue of .
£851 0 5
Abstract View of the Revenue and Expenditure of tiie Cor-
poration of Edinburgh — proper to the period from 1st Au-
gust 1833 to 1st August 1839, and comprised in Schedule B of
the Act 1st and 2d Victoria, cap. 55, over which the security
to the Creditors is limited to £1, 000 :—
Arrears at
Revenue Revenue Iteeii.
Or.DINARV ReyBNUS. 1st August Charged in ihe in lite rerind of
183S. period of this Act. tins Act.
Common Good and £ f. d. £ s. d. £ s. d.
Market Dues . 1,409 10 8 4,2.'iS 3 fi 4.CC0 4 8
One percent. Impost 0 0 0 *I05 1 9 Ki5 1 9
Fees of Burgesses, &c. 0 0 0 221 1 4 221 1 4
Totals . 1,4(59 10 i
Arrears at 1st August 1839
4,051 0
4.416 7 9
1,677 9 6
Amount of Ordinary Revenue, after deducting expenses of
Management (£S66 5s. lid.), and proportion of Annuity pay-
able to Creditors .... £4,453 15 9
Municipal Expeyiditure.
Criminal Department . . £2.851 7 2
Civil Department . . 1,453 6 5
Surplus
£130
The police territory includes the limits of all the
de facto town of Edinburgh, and is divided into 32
wards. The general commissioners of police are 48
in number : 1 2 ex qfficiis, 4 elected by public bodies
out of their own members, and 32 elected by rate-
payers. The official are, the Lord-provost, four
bailies, dean-of-guild, treasurer, and convener of the
trades, the sheriff of the county and one of his sub-
stitutes, the senior resident bailie of Canongate, and
the convener of the Southern districts. Those
elected by public bodies are chosen by the Faculty
of Advocates, the Society of Writers to the Signet,
the Society of Solicitors in the Supreme courts, and
the Merchant company. There are also 64 Resident
commissioners, each ward electing 2. Some idea may
be formed of the management of the police established
from the following items : — The total income for
the year 1839-40, applicable to the watching de-
partment, amounts to £13,894 Is. 9|d. ; the expendi-
ure in which is £15,292 18s. 2£d. ; thus showing a
deficiency in the amount assessed for this branch of
.£1,398 16s. 4|d. The total income applicable to
lightingis £6,874 0s. 6fd.: total expenditure £6.349
3s. 2d.; thus showing a surplus of £524 17s. 4Jd.
The total income applicable to cleaning is £11,815
5s. 4Jd. : total expenditure £12,14(j 2s. 6jti.; show-
ing a defalcation of £324 18s. 2d.; thus leaving a
nett deficiency of revenue, or sum short-assessed for
the general purposes ot the act this year, of £1,198
17s. 2d.; making altogether a total expenditure of
£33,782 3s. lid. On taking a comparative view of
the revenue and expenditure of the year at present
under notice, and the one previous, it appears that
the total income of 1838-9, amounted to £30,439
18s. 6d. ; and that of 1839-40 to £32,583 6s. 9d. ;
being an increase in favour of the latter year of
£2,143 8s. 3d. The gross expenditure for the year
1838-9, is £30,982 3s. 0-Jd. ; and that of 1839-40,
* By act of Council, the collection of the one per cent, im-
post was suspended for 1839-9, and the above sum of £165 Is,
id. is for arrears of previous years.
£33,782 3s. lid. ; proving a nett increase upon, the
whole of £2,800 0s. l^d. This apparently large
increase in the expenditure of the last year may in
some measure be accounted for by the fact, of £1,371
6s. 6d. having been paid for property purchased for
watch and engine houses, besides other incidental
sums which are not mentioned in the disbursements
of the previous year.
The freedom or burgess-ship of the city is ob-
tained by payment of a fixed sum, or by serving an
apprenticeship in some one or other of the crafts or
trades, by propinquity to former burgesses, or by
presentation. The price of a burgess-ticket to a
stranger is £16 9s. It is £6 5s. 6d. if claimed in
right of a father or wife ; and if in right of appren-
ticeship to a freeman, it is £8. Burgess-ship is an
indispensable qualification of eligibility to the magis-
tracy ; and the burgesses have also the exclusive
privilege of carrying on their respective trades within
certain boundaries. There are 14 incorporated trades,
which were formerly represented in the town-coun-
cil:.— 1. Waulkers; constituted by seal of cause,
20th August, 1500. 2. Surgeons; seal of cause, 1st
July, 1505; Crown charters, 13th October, 1506;
11th May, 1567; 6th June, 1613; statutes, 1641,
1670; Crown-charter, 28th February, 1694; statute,
1695. 3. Skinners; seals of cause, 1586, 1630. 4.
Furriers; act of council, 7th September, 1593; 5th
April, 1665. 5. Goldsmiths; seal of cause, 20th
August, 1581 ; Crown-charters, 3d January, 1586 ;
14th December, 1687. 6. Hammermen; seal of
cause, 2d May, 1483. 7. Wrights; act of council,
15th October, 1475. 8. Masons; act of council, 15th
October, 1475. 9. Tailors; seals of cause, 26th
August, 1500; 20th October, 1531; 11th November,
1584; royal charters, 18th November, 1531; 4th
June, 1594. 10. Baxters; before 1522. 11. Flesh-
ers; seal of cause, 11th April, 14S8. 12. Cordiners;
seals of cause, 28th July, 1449 ; 26th November,
1479; 1st February, 1586; Crown-charter, 6th
March, 1598. 13. Websters; seals of cause, 31st
January, 1475; 27th February, 1520. 14. Bonnet-
makers; seal of cause, 31st March, 1530; ■ ,
1684. The corporation of Candlemakers was con-
stituted by charter from the magistrates, 5th Sep-
tember, 1517 ; confirmed by royal charter, 4th May,
1597 ; and ratified by act of parliament, 17th July,
1695, which conferred the usual privileges of incor-
porated trades. The corporation of Barbers, origi-
nally united with the Surgeons, had a separate con-
stitution by seal of cause, granted by the town-
council in 1722. Neither of these last-mentioned
corporations were represented in the convenery or
the town-council. All the trades choose their own
deacons.
Four subordinate districts — Canongate, the Abbey
Sanctuary, Portsburgh, and Calton — are included in
the parliamentary boundaries and police territory of
Edinburgh, and are compact with it in architectural
continuity, but have separate burghal jurisdictions.
Canongate is one of the most ancient burghs of
regality in Scotland, and had charters from David I.,
Robert I., and Robert III. The abbots of Holy-
rood had the superiority of the burgh, and are stated
to have appointed as its earliest sett two bailies, a
treasurer, and council, with right to make burgesses
and craftsmen, and to hold courts civil and criminal,
with privilege and liberty of chapel and chancellary,
by issuing briefs, and serving the same before such
courts. These powers and privileges, with certain
feu-duties and other property, they afterwards con-
veyed to the community, reserving nothing but the
bare superiority of the burgh. The abbots continued
superiors till the Reformation. Robert Stewart,
commendator of Holyrood, exchanged the abbacy
EDINBURGH.
461
for the temporality of the bishopric of Orkney, with
Adam, bishop of Orkney. The superiority passed
successively into the hands of Sir Lewis Bellenden
of Broughton, and others, and was at last acquired
by the city of Edinburgh about the year 1630. The
only property belonging to the burgh consists of the
superiority of certain properties within the burgh the
right to levy petty customs, market-dues, and cause-
way mail ; and an annual allowance from the police-
establishment of Edinburgh, " in lieu and place of l-4th
part of the monies arising from the sale of the dung
or fuilzie of the streets of Canongate and Pleas-
ance," which had previously belonged to the burgh.
The burgh has no debt. The magistrates have not,
for a number of years, exercised their burghal j uris-
diction in criminal matters. They hold a weekly
court for civil causes, in which they dispose of the
same classes of questions that are competent to sher-
iffs and magistrates of royal burghs. They also hold
weekly a small debt court, in which causes not ex-
ceeding £5 sterling are tried viva voce. The ma-
gistrates act also as justices of the peace within the
territory of the burgh, in all matters falling under
the cognizance of justices ; and are assisted by an
assessor, who is a member of the Faculty of Advo-
cates, and is appointed by the town-council of Ed-
inburgh as superiors of the Canongate. The juris-
diction extends over the whole territory of the burgh,
including Canongate Proper, the Abbey of Holyrood
house, Pleasance, North Leith, and Coal-hill. None
but burgesses or freemen of the burgh are entitled
to carry on trade or manufactures within the bounds ;
and in those callings which fall within the exclusive
privileges of the incorporated crafts, it is necessary,
besides the qualification of burgess, to be an entered
member of the particular craft. The fee for admis-
sion as burgess is, to a stranger, £3 3s. ; but to the
children of a burgess only £\ lis. 6d. The number
of burgesses cannot be exactly ascertained ; but it
has been estimated to amount to about 400. There
are eight incorporated crafts, all enjoying exclusive
privileges, and possessed of funds, which are appro-
priated to the support of poor members and the
widows of deceased members. These are hammer-
men, tailors, wrights, bakers, shoemakers, weavers,
fleshers, and barbers.
The Abbey court is of a peculiar nature and juris-
diction. During the time of popery the Abbey of
Holyrood possessed the privilege of sanctuary in
common with many religious houses. After the
Reformation it continued as a royal palace, to be
regarded as an asylum for debtors, and perhaps petty
offenders, and it still retains its privilege of exemp-
tion from personal arrest for civil debts. This privi-
lege has been recognised by various decisions of the
supreme court, and by an act of the Scottish parlia-
ment in 1696, and subsequently by the various acts
of the imperial parliament called the Bankrupt acts.
The bailie of Holyrood is appointed by commission
from the Duke of Hamilton, as hereditary keeper of
the palace, and holds his office during pleasure. His
commission gives him power to appoint a substitute,
and to name fiscals, clerks, and other officers of
court. The jurisdiction of the bailie is that of re-
gality ; and it was not affected by the act abolishing
heritable jurisdictions, being a royal residence and a
regality independent of a superior. The jurisdiction
is both criminal and civil, and, from the diet-books
of court, the bailie seems to have exercised it at
different times to a very considerable extent. It is
in some respects privative. The bailie alone can grant
warrants against persons within his jurisdiction, and
his concurrence is necessary to the civil warrant of
other judges. The boundaries of the sanctuary are
very extensive, reaching beyond the precincts of the
palace, and comprising the King's park, Salisbury-
crags, and the greater portion of Arthur's-seat.
The burgh- of-barony of Portsburgh comprehends
two districts, — Easter and Wester Portsburgh, which
are discontiguous. Easter Portsburgh lies wholly
to the east of Bristo-street, and has been described
as comprehending the east side of Bristo-street from
Bristo port southward, Potter-row, Lothian, and
South College-streets, Drummond-street to opposite
to Adam-street, and Nicolson-street to nearly the
entry to the York hotel on the west, and to the
Surgeon's hall on the east. Wester Portsburgh lies
wholly to the west of Wharton-lane and the Vennel,
and has been described as comprehending the main
street of Wester Portsburgh on both sides, from the
corn-market and foot of the Vennel to Main point ;
the whole of Laurieston, both sides, from Wharton-
lane to Lochrin, including Portland-place, Cowfeeder-
row, on the west, and to Burntsfield-links on the
east, including Home and Leven streets. There
lies interjected between the two the whole terri-
tory lying along the southern boundary of Heriot's
work and the old city- wall, comprehending the west
side of Bristo-street, Park-place, Teviot-row, the
Meadow-walk, the grounds of Watson's hospital,
the lying-in-hospital, &c. This burgh has no cor-
poration-property, revenue, or debts. A baron-
bailie and two resident bailies are annually appointed,
and there are a clerk and procurator-fiscal. These
are all officers appointed by the city of Edinburgh
in its character of baron and superior ; and any ex-
pense connected with their establishment is defrayed
by the city. There has been no jurisdiction exer-
cised of late years within the Portsburghs, either
by the baron or resident bailies. Formerly courts
were occasionally held for recovery of debts under
40s., and for deciding summary complaints for thefts,
breaches of the peace, &c. But for a number of
years past the former have been taken to the small
debt courts of the county, and the latter to the po-
lice court. There are no burgesses and guild-breth-
ren in Portsburgh ; but there are eight incorporated
trades deriving their rights from John Touris of
Inverleith.
The lands of Calton formed part of the bavony of
Restalrig, belonging to Lord Balmerino. The ma-
gistrates and council of Edinburgh having bought
them from Lord Balmerino, obtained, in 1725, a
charter from the Crown, disjoining them from the
barony and burgh- of-barony of Restalrig, and annex-
ing them to the city of Edinburgh. This charter,
however, does not erect the lands into a burgh-of-
barony. The town-council appoint each year one
of their number to be bailie of Canongate and Cal-
ton ; but in the latter no judicial functions are exer-
cised by him, nor does it appear that he has right to
exercise any jurisdiction. The bailiary of Calton
extends from the brewery a little to the eastward of
the Shotts foundry at the north back of Canongate,
westward along the street so called, including all
the houses next the Calton-hill, and turning round
and including, the High Calton, passing through the
archway of the Regent bridge along Calton-street,
and down the street leading to Wordsworth's stables,
including all the buildings on the side of that street
next the hill, and down to the Greenside well at
the north-eastern extremity of the city's property
of Calton-hill, whence the boundary crosses over the
hill by the wall of the Regent-terrace garden and
the east end of the High school to the brewery
above-mentioned, all the intermediate property be-
ing included. As observed, however, in a report
by the town-council, " it consists of several frag-
ments, the limits of which, since the erection of the
Regent bridge and the extension of the royalty in
462
EDINBURGH.
that quarter, it is extremely difficult to ascertain."
The only corporation connected with the Calton is
that of the incorporated trades.
Manufactures.
The manufactures of Edinburgh are of very trivial
importance ; and, in 1831, employed only 792 males
of 20 years and upwards. In 1828 the number of
hand-looms throughout the entire county of Mid-
Lothian was only 300 ; and in 1838 they were only
108, of which 48 were factory looms, and 60 plain
looms. The making of shawls and plaids, com-
posed of silk and wool, of very rich designs and
excellent quality, is the chief. The shawl weav-
ing is all conducted in factories, and yields to the
workman 10s. a- week in clear wages; but it has con-
siderably declined, in consequence, as is believed, of
spirited competition in Paisley. The other depart-
ments of manufactures are net- weaving, lace-making,
the weaving of haircloth and silk, and coach-building.
The Merchants' company is intimately connected with
the guildry, and has the virtual patronage and man-
agement of three great public charities, but exerts
little influence or none in what would seem to be its
legitimate direction. The company was established
by royal charter, dated 19th October, 1681, which
erected " the then haill present merchants, burgesses,
and gild brethren of the burgh of Edinburgh, who
were importers or sellers of cloths, stuffs, or other
merchandize, for the apparell or wear of the bodies
of men or women, for themselves and successors in
their said trade in all time comeing, in a society or
company, to be designed the Company of Merchants
of the city of Edinburgh," which was ratified by act
of parliament, 1693. A subsequent charter, and two
successive acts of parliament, the last dated 28th
May, 1827, have regulated the dues of entry, and»
authorized the company to admit all persons " being
merchants, burgesses, and guild brethren, or entitled
to be chosen merchant-councillors or magistrates of
the city of Edinburgh." The rate of entry-money, as
regulated by the last statute, is £63. The company's
stock, at September, 1834, was £23,776. The In-
come from interest of money, rents of real property,
and entry money, &c, amounts to about £1,100 per
annum, and is expended chiefly in supporting widows
and decayed members. Edinburgh, as to water, coals,
facilities of communication, and relative position, is
peculiarly well-situated for manufactures; but hither-
to it has expended its physical advantages chiefly
in promoting the health and comfort of its inhabi-
tants. Such trade as it has is carried on principally
through Leith, and will be noticed in the article on
that port.
Publishing Trade.
Literature may, in a sense, be called the staple
produce of the metropolis. In the printing of law
papers for the legal functionaries, of bibles and school-
books for general diffusion over Scotland, of num-
erous periodicals of national circulation, and of vol-
umes or ponderous works of popular attraction or
standard and enduring value, a proportion of opera-
tives and of literary persons— particularly of the for-
mer— incomparably greater is employed in Edinburgh
than in any other town of the three kingdoms except
London. So late as near the close of the 18th cen-
tury, literature, in the strict sense of the word, was
little more an article of manufacture than in any
Scottish provincial town ; but it started up with an
energy, and proceeded with attractions, and in-
creased with a rapidity which have eventually earned
for the city the name " Modern Athens," in compli-
ment more to her learnedness and her being the em-
porium of the nation's means of knowledge, than even
to the characteristic features of her topographical
position. The Encyclopedia Britannica was the first
large work which the Edinburgh press produced ;
and, bulky and magnificent as it was, it gave but im-
perfect indication of the spirit of achievement which
had been roused. The beautiful and incessant and
very varied productions Qf the Ballantyne press,
combined with the princely speculations of Con-
stable, and the corruscations of talent which played
from the literary coteries of the Edinburgh Review
and Blackwood's Magazine, were the first demon-
strations to the world that Edinburgh was taking
her place as a manufactory and a mart of litera-
ture. But the machinery of publishing was as yet
chiefly propelled by one individual, and after his
death, seemed, for a time, to be obscured partially
from view ; but it has since been greatly multiplied
in its powers, and advantageously distributed among
many possessors, and works with the vigour and the
glee of healthful competition. The periodicals of
the city — though scarcely a fair index of its produc-
tiveness in the more valuable department of standard
works and serials — are sufficiently numerous and im-
portant to indicate its standing. In 1840 the perio-
dicals were the Edinburgh Review, the Edinburgh
Philosophical Journal, the Edinburgh Medical and
Surgical Journal, Tait's Edinburgh Magazine, the
Phrenological Review, the Journal of Agriculture,
Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Chambers' Jour-
nal, the Presbyterian Review, the Edinburgh Chris-
tian Instructor, the United Secession Magazine, the
Scottish Congregational Magazine, the Scottish Bap-
tist Magazine, the Scottish Christian Herald, the
Scottish Missionary Record, and several annual
publications. The Newspapers of the city are the
Edinburgh Evening Courant and the Caledonian
Mercury, three times a- week ; the Gazette, the Ob-
server, the Advertiser, the Scotsman, the New North
Briton, and the Scottish Pilot, twice a-week ; and
the Weekly Chronicle, the Weekly Journal, the
Saturday Evening Post, and the Edinburgh, Leith,
and Glasgow Advertiser, once a-week.
Banks, Societies, Sfc.
The chartered Banks of Edinburgh are three,
the Bank of Scotland, established in 1695, originally
upon a stock of £100,000 ; the Royal Bank of Scot-
land, established in 1727, on a capital of £111,000;
the British Linen company, instituted in 1746, on a
capital of £100,000. These all, after their estab-
lishment, very greatly increased their capitals. The
Joint-stock banks are four, — the Commercial Bank-
ing company of Scotland, established in 1810, on 500
shares of £500 each ; the National Bank of Scotland,
established in 1825, on a very large number of shares
of £100 each ; the Eastern bank of Scotland, and the
Edinburgh and Leith bank. The private banks are
two, — that of Sir W. Forbes, J. Hunter & Co., and
that of Alexander Allan & Co. There are also branch
offices of the Clydesdale banking company, and the
Western bank of Scotland -Of the Insurance com-
panies belonging to Scotland, and branch-offices of
English companies, the list is numerous. The Friendly
Insurance company was established in 1720 for the
private benefit of its founders, but has since become
a public institution. The Caledonian Fire Insurance
company was instituted in 1 805, and received a royal
charter in 1810. Its capital is £15,000, divided
into shares of £100. The Hercules Fire Insurance
company was instituted in 1809, with a capital oi
£75,000, by shares on the same plan as that of the
Caledonian. The North British Fire-office was
established in 1809, with a capital of £500,000.
The Scottish Widows' Fund and Life Assurance
society was established in 1813, on the model of the
EDINBURGH.
46£
Equitable society in London. The Insurance Com-
pany of Scotland was instituted in 1S21, on a very
wide scale of proprietory. The Standard Life As-
surance company has a capital of £500,000. The
Edinburgh Life Assurance company was established
in 1823, with a capital of £500,000. The Scottish
Union Insurance company was instituted in 1824,
with a capital of five millions, in .£20 shares. A native
Sea Insurance society was established in 1816. The
following have branches in Edinburgh: — The Sun
Fire-office of London ; the Royal Exchange Fire and
Life Assurance company ; the Clerical, Medical, and
General Life Assurance society ; the Norwich Union
Fire and Life Insurance societies ; the West of Scot-
land Fire Insurance company ; the Scottish Amicable
Life Assurance company; the West of Scotland Life
Insurance and Endowment company ; the European,
the Atlas, the Alliance, the Guardian, the Palladium,
the West of England, the Scottish Equitable, the
Law Life, the Economic, the Pelican, the Eagle, the
Westminster, the Asylum Foreign and Domestic,
the Universal Life, the Dissenters, and the York-
shire Fire and Life societies. Among Provident
societies may be named the Grand Lodge of the
Free Masons of Scotland ; the Ministers' Widows'
Fund, instituted in 1744; the Society for the Sons of
the Clergy, established in 1790; the Friendly Society
of Dissenting Ministers, instituted in 1797; the Medi-
cal Provident Institution of Scotland, established in
182C; the Society for Relief of the Widows and
Children of Schoolmasters, established in 1807 ; the
Friendly Society of the Ministers of the Relief Synod,
instituted in 1 792 ; the Widows' Fund of the United
Secession Synod ; the Episcopal Fund ; the Caledo-
nian Gardeners' society, established in 1792; besides
numerous societies and funds connected with parti-
cular professions, institutions, or localities The
Public libraries, additional to the three great ones
which have been noticed, are the Edinburgh Sub-
scription-library, instituted in 1794; the Edinburgh
Select Subscription-library, South-bridge, instituted
in 1800 ; the Edinburgh Mechanics' Subscription-
library, 7, James' Court, instituted in 1825; the
Edinburgh Subscription and Circulating Select libra-
ry, 7, South St. Andrew-street ; the Edinburgh
Southern District Subscription-library, 1, Nicolson-
square, instituted in 1816; and the Bakers' library,
St. David's Lodge, Hyndford's-close, instituted in
1828 — A considerable number of miscellaneous so-
cieties belong to the metropolis. The Wernerian
Natural History society was formed in 1808, and
the Plinian society in 1823, for promoting the study
of Natural History. Other societies indicate their
objects by their titles. Such are the Diagnostic
society, instituted in 1816, — the Medico-Chirurgical
society, — the Royal Physical society, — the Royal
Medical society, — the Hunterian Medical society, —
the Harveian society, instituted 1782, — the Specu-
lative society, — the Select Forensic society,— the
Juridical society, instituted 1773,— the Scots Law
society, instituted 1815,— the Philalethic societv,
instituted 1792, — the Adelpho-Theological society,
instituted 1758,— the Theological society, instituted
1776, — the Edinburgh Academical club, instituted
1828,— the Phrenological society, instituted 1820, —
the Edinburgh Harmonists' society, — the Edinburgh
Royal Naval club, — the Caledonian United Service
club, — the Anatomical society, instituted in 1833,—
the Classical society, instituted in 1827, — the Church
Law society, instituted in 1827, — the Jurisprudence
society, — the Edinburgh Ethical society for the study
and practical application of Phrenology, — the Edin-
burgh Society for the Diffusion of Information on
Capital Punishments, — the Royal Northern Yacht
club, — the Skating club, — the Duddingston Curling
society, — the Edinburgh Company of Golfers, insti-
tuted 1744, — the Bruntsfields Links Golfing society,
— the Edinburgh Burgess Golfing society, — the
Thistle Golf club, — the Brunswick Cricket club,
established in 1830, — the Edinburgh Chess club, in-
stituted in 1822, — and the Edinburgh Quoiting club.
The Celtic society was instituted in 1820, for pro-
moting the general use of the ancient Highland dress
in the Highlands of Scotland, and the encouraging
of education in that part of the country, by dis-
tributing prizes among its schools. The Highland
club, instituted in 1825 for objects of a similar
nature, has an annual fete — frequently on the island
of Inchkeith — at which there are gymnastic exhibi-
tions, games, and prize-shooting. St. Fillan's High-
land society, instituted 1819, also for objects of a
similar nature, has an annual fete at St. Fillan's, in
Perthshire, where there are games. The Six Feet
club was instituted in 1826, chiefly with a view to
the practice and encouragement of gymnastic exer-
cises, and games. The members — who must be all
six feet in height — have an annual fete and dinner.
They are also constituted a guard-of-honour to the
hereditary Lord-high-constable of Scotland. The
Royal Company of Archers was instituted in 1703,
by a charter of Queen Anne, and is the Queen's
Body-guard in Scotland. The association has a
great number of members, chiefly in the upper ranks
of society, who are distinguished by a very tasteful
dark-green tartan uniform. The company has a
hall of meeting in Buccleugh-street, near the end of
the Meadows, where they practise archery.
The Religious and Philanthropic institutions are
numerous. Most are sufficiently described by their
titles. Such are the Edinburgh Bible society, — the
Edinburgh Church of England Missionary associa-
tion,— the Scottish Bible society, — the Edinburgh
Auxiliary Bible society, — the Edinburgh Auxiliary
Naval and Military Bible society, — the Scottish
Missionary society, — the Edinburgh and Leith Auxi-
liary of the Irish society, — the Baptist Home Mis-
sionary society for Scotland, — the Edinburgh Auxi-
liary to the London Missionary society, — the Edin-
burgh association in aid of the Moravian missions,
— the Society for promoting Christianity among the
Jews, — the Society for propagating Christian know-
ledge, incorporated in 1709, — the Society for pro-
moting Religious knowledge among the Poor, insti-
tuted in 1786, — the Edinburgh City mission, insti-
tuted in 1832, — the Society for promoting Christian
knowledge, — the Edinburgh Gratis Sabbath-school
society, instituted in 1797, — the Edinburgh Village
Sabbath-school society, instituted in 1818, — the
Sabbath-school LTnion for Scotland, — the Edinburgh
Auxiliary to the Irish Evangelical society, — the So-
ciety for the support of Gaelic schools, — the Edin-
burgh Ladies' association in aid of the Society for
the support of Gaelic schools, — the Edinburgh Re-
ligious Tract society, instituted in 1793, — the Gen-
eral Assembly's Committee for the propagation of
the Gospel in Foreign parts, — the Edinburgh and
Leith Seaman's Friend society, instituted in 1820, — .
the Highland Missionary society, — the Edinburgh
society for promoting the Religious interests of
Scottish settlers in British North America, — the
Antipatronage society of the Church of Scotland,
— the Edinburgh Young Men's association for pro-
moting the interests of the Church of Scotland, —
the Voluntary Church association, — the Edinburgh
Young Men's Voluntary Church association, — and
the Edinburgh society for the suppression of Intem-
perance.
Markets, frc.
Edinburgh is well-supplied with all civic appli-
4G4
EDINBURGH.
ances for the health and comfort of its population.
A public market, for the sale of cattle and country
produce, is held weekly in the spacious area of the
Grassmarket, so situated both as to relative position
to the other localities of the town, and avenues of
access from the great roads, as to occasion little
nuisance by the influx and efflux of the stock, live
or inert, which is brought for sale. In the afternoon
of the market-day, the area of the market, after
having been freed from cattle, is occupied by horse-
dealers exposing to sale their horses. Annually, in
November, All- Hallow Fair is held during two days
for the sale of horses, sheep, and cattle. The town-
markets of the city, situated under the North bridge,
consist of a series of terraces, terminating, in the
hollow, in a large quadrangular area which is sur-
rounded by a covered piazza, and partitioned into
various departments. All the markets are tidy and
well-arranged, and, with the exception of those for
butter and eggs, are always, as to both quantity and
quality, well-supplied. Large quantities of fish are
brought from the coast, chiefly from the fishing-
towns of Newhaven and Fisher-row, and sold in a
fresh state and at low prices, on the streets. Smaller
town-markets than the central suite, are open in
West Nicolson-street and at Stockbridge ; and a
sort of dismembered market is dispersed, in the form
of single or clustered shops, for the sale of flesh or
vegetables, throughout almost every part of the
city Edinburgh is brilliantly lighted at night with
coal gas ; and first enjoyed the luxury in the winter
of 1818. The Coal Gas company were formed in
1817, and incorporated in the following year, with a
capital of £100,000, in shares of £25. Their pre-
mises are on the north side of the North back of the
Canongate, opposite New-street. A company for
lighting the city with gas manufactured from oil was
formed in 1824; but, having entirely failed in at-
tempts to achieve its object, it became united to the
Coal Gas company Edinburgh is abundantly and
facilely supplied with coals for fuel by means of the
Union canal, the Dalkeith railway, and ample com-
munication with coal-pits in its vicinity. The fuel
is good in quality, and, in general, moderate in price.
. — The city is supplied with excellent water from
the northern declivity of the Pentland hills. In
1621 the magistrates obtained an act of parliament
empowering them to cast " seuchs and ditches " in
the lands between the city and the Pentlands, and
to construct means of bringing water ; but, during
half-a-century, they seem to have found no engineer,
or to have themselves wanted resources to execute
their project. In 1674, they paid Peter Bruschi, a
German, £2,950 for laying down a leaden pipe, 3
inches in diameter, from Comiston, 4 miles west from
the city, to a reservoir on the Castle-hill. Soon
after new springs were added to the fountain, and
produced more water than the pipe could convey.
A new pipe of 4i inches in diameter now began to
be laid, but was slowly carried on, and not completed
till 1722; and then it had to be fed with the waters
of additional springs. A new act of parliament was
obtained authorizing supply to be brought from any
lands within 3 miles of the original fountain at Co-
miston. In 1787, a cast-iron pipe, 5 inches in
diameter, was laid as an additional medium of sup-
ply. In 1790, another, 7 inches in diameter, was
laid from springs on the lands of Svvanston. But
the supply being found inadequate to the increased
demand, a Joint-stock company was formed in 1810,
and incorporated in 1819, to carry pipes from two
great springs, 8 miles distant, at Crawley and Glen-
corse. The pipes from the various quarters, with
one exception, convey their treasures to two reser-
voirs, one near Heriot's hospital for the supply of
the southern Old town, and the other on the Castle,
hill for the supply of the northern Old town. One
pipe, 7 inches in diameter, passes over the Castle-
hill, and along the Earthen mound, for the supply
of the New town.
The numerous facilities of communication which
Edinburgh enjoys by sea, as well as its modes ol
communication with Fife and the north-east of Scot-
land, will appropriately fall to be noticed in the
articles Leith, Newhaven, and Queensferry.
Its land-communications by coach, waggon, and cart,
are too many and minute to bear even an attempt at
enumeration. The Union canal and the railways,
however, are so important to the city, and so imme-
diately connected with it, as to demand a moment's
attention In 1817, an act of parliament was ob-
tained giving power to a joint-stock company to cut
a canal from Edinburgh to the Forth and Clyde
canal, at a point about 4 miles before the latter's
communication with the Forth. The canal was be-
gun in the same year, and completed in 1822. The
chief objects of it were the transmission of heavy
goods, and the conveyance of passengers between
Edinburgh and Glasgow, the importation to Edin-
burgh of large supplies of coal from places to the
west, and the exportation of the manure of the city.
The eastern termination, called Port-Hopetoun, is on
a plain, J a-mile south-west of the castle, and has oc-
casioned the erection around it of an important
suburb. The canal, though a great benefit to the
town, has drained heavy losses from the share-
holders. Recently, indeed, it has been aided in its
traffic by the opening toward it of the Great west-
ern approach, and especially by the communication
with it, commenced in 1840, of the Slamannan
railway in Linlithgowshire ; hut it will probably
suffer severe damage — with the result, however, of
prodigiously increased advantage to the city — by the
competition of the Great line of railway between
Edinburgh and Glasgow, begun to be cut in 1839 :
see articles, Union Canal, and Edinburgh and
Glasgow Railway. — The Dalkeith railway has
been described under the head Dalkeith The
Newhaven railway was authorized by an act of
parliament in 1836. It commences at the east
end of Prince's-street gardens ; and proceeds, by a
tunnel, under the northern ridge of the city to the
foot of Scotland-street, and thence to Trinity pier,
in nearly a straight line. The whole length of the
railway to Trinity is 13,000 feet, or about 2| miles;
that of the tunnel — opening at Canonmills — about
2,800 feet. It was originally intended to make a
branch to the harbour and docks of Leith ; but by an
act passed in 1839 this branch is abandoned. The
capital is £100,000 : see article Newhaven.
Church and School Statistics.
The ancient royalty of Edinburgh contains, quoad
civilia, 9 parishes, and the extended royalty 4. By
the act of General Assembly, in 1834, the city was
distributed into 20 parishes, each of the chapels-of-
ease having assigned to it a jurisdiction as a parish-
church. Beyond the royalty, but constituting or
including a large portion of the city, are also the
parishes of the Canongate and St. Cuthbert. Since
1834 several additional quoad sacra parishes have
been created.
High Church. This parish, situated in one of
the most dense parts of the Old town, has an area
of one-sixtieth part of a square mile, or 51,222
square yards. Population, in 1831,2,614; in 1841,
2,785. Number of inhabited houses, in 1841, 466;
of families, 646. According to an ecclesiastical
census of 1835, the population was then estimated
at 2,557; of whom 905 belonged to the Estab-
EDINBURGH.
465
lishment, 1,383 belonged to other denominations, and
269 were of no ascertained religious connexion. The
parish-church — part of St. Giles' — is of remote but
unknown date, and was repaired in 1817 and 1830.
Sittings 1,399. The charge is collegiate. As to this
parish, and all the following, down to the 13th, or
St. Stephen's inclusive, whether collegiate or single,
the patron is the Town-council, and the stipend is
variable, but, in 1834^, was £548 4s. 6d The
Scottish Episcopal congregation of St. Paul's is of
remote origin, but is supposed to have been estab-
lished about 1688. The church is situated in Car-
rubber's-close, and is believed to have been built
before the year 168S. The building — originally a
ware-room — is supposed to have been occupied, in its
upper floor, by one of the Edinburgh bishops in 1688;
and was purchased by the congregation, partly in
1741 and partly in 17S6. Sittings 360. Stipend
variable; but, in 1835, =£125 10s A congregation
which assembled in Carrubber's-close, and assumed
no particular denomination, was established in August,
1833, under the ministry of the Rev. Walter Tait.
The chapel was private property, and rented at =£20
a-vear. Sittings 700. Stipend variable ; but, from
22"d February till 23d November, 1835, it was £199
14s. 2d There were in the parish, in 1834, 5
schools, attended by a maximum of 516 scholars.
All were non-parochial ; one was a Roman Catholic
school for females, attended by about 250.
Old Church. This parish, situated in the Old
town, is extremely limited in extent, measuring less
than 800 feet from east to west, and not more than
500 feet from north to south, and containing only
one-hundredth part of a square mile, or 30,522 square
yards. Population, in 1831, 1,952; in 1841, 2,949.
Houses, in 1841, 438. According to an ecclesiastical
census of 1835, the population was then only 1,704;
of whom 729 belonged to the Establishment, 887 be-
longed to other denominations, and 88 were of no as-
certained religious connexion There were, in 1834,
3 schools, all non-parochial, attended by 244 scholars.
Tolbooth. This parish does not extend in any
direction more than ± of a mile, lies wholly within
the Old town, and is very densely built. Popula-
tion, in 1831, 3,016; in 1841, 2,216. Houses, in 1841,
297. According to an ecclesiastical survey of 1835,
the population was then 2,465; of whom 1,205 be-
longed to the Establishment, 9S0 belonged to other
denominations, and 109 were of no ascertained reli-
gious connexion. The parish-church — part of St.
Giles' — is of remote but unknown date ; and was
altered and enlarged in 1831. Sittings 1,397 A
Primitive Methodist congregation was established in
1828 ; and, in 1835, met in a hall in James'-court,
rented at £10. Sittings 250. Stipend £36 Ss.,
with an allowance of £5 15s. for a dwelling-house
There were, in 1834, 7 schools, attended by upwards
of 800 children. One was the Sessional school, in-
tended for the benefit of all the parishes of Edin-
burgh; supported by contributions from the congre-
gations of the various parish-churches, and attended
by 343 scholars, who each paid lid, per week.
Trinity College. This is an original parish,
wholly in the town, and contains an area of 52,711
square yards, or one fifty-eighth part of a square
nnle. Population, in 1831, 4,244; in 1841, 2,314.
Houses, in 1841, 359. According to ecclesiastical
survey, in 1835, the population then was 3,630 ;* of
whom 1,804 belonged to the Establishment, 1,655
belonged to other denominations, and 171 were not
attached to any religious sect. The parish-church
* The apparent decrease of the populntion between 1831 and
1835, or even 1S+1, is accounted for, in (hid instance and some
cithers, hy the reduction of the size of the parish Ul tile inter.
veniug qufjud sucra arrangement.
I.
was built about 1,470, and was considerably altered
in its internal arrangements about 1812, and again in
1835. Sittings 797. — The congregation of Lady
Glenorchy's chapel was established in 1775, by Lady
Glenorchy, as a chapel in connexion with the Church
of Scotland. It has now a quoad sacra district at-
tached to it, of which the population, in 1841, with-
in the College parish, was 501. Sittings 1,514. The
charge, in 1835, was collegiate. Stipend of the first
minister, £400 ; of the second, £200. There is at-
tached to the chapel a school attended by 100 or 120
poor children. In 1834 there were in the parish 3
schools, attended by 210 scholars.
New North. This parish is believed to have
been formed, by authority of the town-council, about
the year 1599. It lies wholly within the ancient
royalty, and is of exceedingly contracted extent,
containing only 22,354 square yards, or one hundred
and thirty-eighth part of a square mile. Population,
in 1831, 1,350; in 1841, 2,527. Houses, in 1841,
337. According to an ecclesiastical survey of 1835,
the population then was 577 ;j of whom 4)9 belong-
ed to the Establishment, 291 belonged to other de-
nominations, and 67 made no ascertained profession
of religion. In 1835 the congregation of the Estab-
lishment met in Brighton-street chapel, in St. Cuth-
bert's parish. Sittings 1,257. The only place of
worship within the parish, in 1835, was a preaching-
station in the Lawnmarket There w:ere, in 1834,
3 schools, attended by 240 scholars, and supported
by the voluntary contributions of the parishioners.
Tron. This is wholly a city-parish, situated in
the Old town, and contains an area of 34,822 square
3:ards, or one eighty-eighth part of a square mile.
Population, in 1831, 3,009; in 1841, 2,498. Houses,
in 1841, 401. According to ecclesiastical survey, in
1S35, the population then was 2,632; of whom 1,186
belonged to the Establishment, 1,278 belonged to
other religious denominations, and 168 were of no
ascertained religious connexion. The parish-church
was built in 1641, and reseated in 1815. Sittings
823. — The United Secession congregation of Cow-
gate was established in 1828. The chapel was built
in 1771 by the congregation of Episcopalians now in
St. Paul's chapel, York-place ; and was purchased
by its present occupants. Sittings 1,792. Stipend
£210, with £12 allowance for sacramental expenses.
A city missionary is supported by the congregation
to attend to the district of the Cowgate The
Scotch Baptist congregation meeting, in 1835, tem-
porarily in Freemasons' hall, Niddry-street, was one
of two recent sections of a congregation established
in 1766. Their original meeting-house, situated in
the Fleasance, cost £3,800; but was sold in 1835
The Original Burgher congregation of Skinner's-
close, was established in 1801. The meeting-house,
originally an Episcopalian chapel, was purchased in
1808 for £560. Sittings 355. Stipend £100, with
£12 sacramental allowance. — There were in the par-
ish, in 1834, 7 schools, attended by 560 scholars.
One of them was 'the City school,' Niddry-street;
and 2 of the others were Roman Catholic schools.
Old Greyfriaks and St. John's. This parish
lies wholly within the ancient royalty, and contains
44,627 square yards, or one sixty-ninth part of a
square mile. A narrow section of it runs into the
Aew North parish. Population, in 1831, 4,345; in
1841, 2,580. Houses, in 1841, 401. The charge
was formerly collegiate ; but has recently been
divided into two distinct charges: one of which is
now known as the parish of St. John's. Population
T The reason of the decrease in the interval from 1831, was,
in this instance, the dilapidation of dwelling-houses to make
way lor new streets; 5JU0 persons having been dispossessed of
then houses in 1831, mid -1UU in 183:1.
9 ,•
466
EDINBURGH.
of St. John's, in 1841, 2,140. Houses 272. Ac-
cording to ecclesiastical survey, in 1835, the popula-
tion of the old parish was then 4,247 ; of whom
1,697 belonged to the Establishment, 2,290 belonged
to other religious denominations, and 260 were not
attached to any religious sect. The parish-church
was built in 1612. Sittings 1,061 The Gaelic
church, situated in the parish of Old Greyfriars, ranks
as a quoad sacra parish-church by the Act of Assem-
bly 1834; but it has not annexed to it any separate
or definite territory. The church was built by sub-
scription in 1809, and cost very nearly £3,000. Sit-
tings 1,166. Stipend £280._The Scotch Baptist
congregation, Argyle-square, is one of two recent
sections of a congregation established in 1766. Their
place of meeting is held on a sublease, at a rent of
£30. Sittings 240. The Berean congregation, Cow-
gate, was established near the end of the 18th cen-
tury. For 35 years they occupied the Magdalen
chapel ; they met in a school room rented at £2.
Sittings about 50 The Independent congregation,
North College-street, was established about 1802.
The chapel was built in 1802, entirely at the expense
of the Rev. Mr. Aikman, its first minister, and cost
upwards of £3,000. It has been recently altered and
improved. Sittings 1,226. There were 2 ministers,
whose joint emoluments, in 1835, did not exceed
£300 There were in the parish, in 1834, 7 schools,
attended by 400 scholars. One of these was the
Trades' Maiden hospital, conducted by 6 teachers.
Lady Yester's. This is wholly a town-parish,
situated in the Old town, and contains 64,472 square
yards, or one forty-eighth part of a square mile. Po-
pulation, in 1831,2,890; in 1841, 1,800. Houses,
in 1841, ^75. According to a survey made by a com-
mittee of Dissenters, in 1835, the population was then
2,149 ; of whom 702 belonged to the Establishment,
1,251 belonged to other denominations, and 196 were
not known to belong to any religious body. The
parish-church was built previous to 1647, and rebuilt
in 1804 or 1S05. Sittings 1,212.. — The congregation
of Original Seceders was established in December, .
1820, in the parish of New Greyfriars, and removed
in April, 1822, to their present place of worship.
The chapel, built in 1822, cost nearly £2,400. Sit-
tings 1,203. In 1835, the charge was collegiate;
and the stipend then was £300, equally divided be-
tween the two ministers There were in the parish,
in 1834, 13 schools, all non-parochial. The parish
includes the University of Edinburgh; and, till 1839,
contained also the High school.
New Greypriars. This parish, situated in the
Old town, has an area of 96,493 square yards, or one
thirty-secondth part of a square mile. Population,
in 1831, 4,536; in 1841, 2,481. Houses, in 1841,
344. According to ecclesiastical survey made in
1835, the population was then 3,087 ;* of whom 749
belonged to the Establishment, 1,332 belonged to
other denominations, and 1,006 were not of any as-
certained religious connexion. The population con-
sists principally of labourers, many of them Irish.
The parish-church was repaired and newly seated in
1818, at an expense of £1,518. Sittings 1,302.
The United Christian church, Heriot-bndge, was
established in 1828; and meet in a building, formerly
a shawl manufactory, which they rented at £42.
Sittings 340. Stipend about £50.. — There were in
the parish, in 1834, 5 schools, attended by 710 scho-
lars. One was George Heriot's hospital, conducted
by 5 teachers, and affording board and education to
180 boys; another was the Workhouse Charity
school for the whole city, conducted by 2 masters,
and affording board and education to 180 children ;
* Iletweeii 1831 and 1830 many houses iu the r.arish Wert*
taken uV.vn to make way lor new streets.
and a third was an Infant model school, superintend-
ed by one master, and attended by J 20 children.
St. Andrew's. This parish, situated in the New
town, was divided from St. Cuthbert's, and erected
into a separate parish, by act of parliament, in 1 785.
Since that date, parts of it have been assigned to
several parishes of more recent erection. Popula-
tion, in 1831, 7,339; in 1841, 4,440. Houses, in
1841, 696. According to ecclesiastical survey, in
1835, the population appeared to be stationary,
and, exclusive of the populous district, of Greenside,
amounted to 4,681 ; of whom 2,145 belonged to the
Establishment, 2,184 belonged to other denomina-
tions, and 352 were not known to belong to any re-
ligious sect. The parish-church was built in 1785,
and cost £7,000. Sittings 1,053. The charge is
collegiate. — The United Secession congregation,
Rose-street, was established in 1786. The chapel
was built, in 1830, upon the site of the original
church and manse, and cost £3,042 18s. 8£d. Sit-
tings 1,363. Stipend £400, with £12 sacramental
expenses The Scottish Episcopal congregation of
St. George's, York-place, was established in 1794.
The chapel was built in 1794, and cost £3,000.
Sittings 642. Stipend from £280 to £290._The
Baptist congregation, Leith Walk, was formed in
1798. The chapel is the upper part of a building
belonging to a private individual, and built in 1801,
at a cost, it is believed, of £6,000. Sittings 1,000.
The Wesleyan Association congregation was formed
in December 1835, and rented for their use the Cal-
ton Convening-hall at from £30 to £35. They had
also, in Chalmer's-close, Trinity college parish, a
place of worship, which contained about 500 sittings.
— The Independent Baptist congregation, Clyde-
street, was established in 1824. Their place of
meeting is the hall of the Phrenological society.
Sittings 200. No stipend. — The Roman Catholic
congregation, Broughton-street, will be noticed
under the parish of St. Cuthbert. — In 1834, there
were in the parish 17 schools, attended by 1,265
scholars. All the schools were non-parochial The
district of Greenside has been erected into a parish,
of which the population, in 1841, was 3,105. Houses
526.
St. Georce's. This parish, situated in the New
town, was disjoined from St. Andrew's and St. Cuth-
bert's, about the year 1814, by the town-council and
presbytery of Edinburgh. It is partly landward, ex-
tending from Hanover-street to the farthest boundary
of Coates; and is probably \i mile in length, and £
a mile in breadth ; but almost all the inhabited houses
are within the town. Population, in 1831, 7,338;
in 1841, 5,518. Houses, in 1841, 980. According
to an ecclesiastical survey of 1835, the population
then was 7,523; of whom 3,471 belonged to the
Establishment, 2,688 belonged to other denomina-
tions, and 1,364 were not known to belong to any
religious sect. The parish-church was built in 1814.
Sittings 1,687 The Baptist congregation, Rose-
street, was established about 1806. The chapel ori-
ginally belonged to an Episcopalian congregation ;
and, in 1818, was purchased, altered, and enlarged,
at a Cost of £2,500. Sittings 750. Stipend about
£105 In 1834, there were in the parish 28 schools,
attended by 1,330 scholars;
St. Mary's. This parish, situated in the New
town, was separated from St. Andrew's in 1824, by
the town-council and the presbytery of Edinburgh.
Population, in 1831,6,587; in 1841, 6,724. Houses,
in 1841, 1,127. According to ecclesiastical survey,
in 1835, the population, exclusive of districts in which
there might be nearly 1,000 persons, was then 5,877 ;
of whom 3,144 belonged to the Establishment, 2,528
belonged to other denominations', and 205 were not
EDINBURGH.
467
of any ascertained religious connexion. The parish-
clmrcli was built in 1824, and cost about £13,000.
Sittings 1,646 The Episcopal congregation of St.
Paul's, York-place, was formed about 1735, and re-
moved to its present place of worship in 1818. The
church was built in 1818, and cost £13,533 lis.
Sittings 1,036. The charge is collegiate. Stipend
of each minister £300 The Independent congrega-
tion, Albany-street, was established in 1808 in the
parish of St. Andrew's, and removed to its present
place of worship in 1817. The chapel was built in
1816, and opened in 1817, and cost £4,009. Sit-
tings 878. Stipend £200 There is, in the parish,
a Glassite congregation ; and Mr. Tait's congrega-
tion, mentioned in High Church parish, has erected
a neat chapel adjoining to the Independent chapel
In 1834, there were 26 schools, attended by a maxi-
mum of 647 scholars.
Sr. Stephen's. This parish, situated in the
New town, was disjoined from the conterminous
parishes in 1828, by the presbytery of Edinburgh
and the teind court. Population, in 1831, 5,772;
in 1841, 6,754. Houses, in 1841, 1,092. According
to ecclesiastical census, in 1835, the population then
was 6,689 ; of whom 3,713 belonged to the Estab-
lishment, 2,343 belonged to other denominations,
and 633 did not profess attachment to any religious
body. The parish-church was built in 1828. Sit-
tings 1,764 In 1834 there were 12 schools. Three
were subscription-schools; a fourth was the Edin-
burgh Academy for Latin and Greek, attended by
300 boys; a fifth was the Circus school, attended by
290 children ; a sixth was the Institution for the
Deaf and Dumb, attended by 60 young persons.
Canongate. This parish contains 484 Scotch or
605 English acres; and measures, in extreme length,
1| mile, and in extreme breadth 1 mile and -Jths of a
furlong. It is partly landward and partly town ; but
the whole population, excepting two on three fami-
lies, is within the burghs of Canongate and Ports-
burgh. Districts containing a population, in 1841,
of about 3,810 were detached from it in 1834, to
form the quoad sacra parishes of Leith-wynd and
New-street.' Population of the parish quoad civilia,
in 1831, 10,175; in 1841, 8,932. Houses, in 1841,
1,499. Population, quoad sacra, in 1835, about
6,072. The parish-church was built in 1688, and
reseated in 1817. Sittings 1,295. The charge is
collegiate. Patron, the Crown. Stipend of each
minister £240. The first minister has a manse ;
and the second £40 for house-rent In 1834 there
were in the quoad civtlia parish 14 schools, attended
by 1,020 scholars.
New Street. This is a quoad sacra parish, lying
wholly within the burgh of Canongate, and was dis-
joined from Canongate parish by act of General As-
sembly' in 1834. In superficial extent it is very small.
Population, in 1841, 1,932. Houses, in 1841, 351.
The parish-church was opened in 1794 as a chapel-
of-ease to the parish of Canongate, and cost from
£2,800 to £2,900. Sittings 1,150. Stipend £150.
Leith-wynd. This is a quoad sacra parish, erect-
ed by act of General Assembly in 1834. Its territory
is densely peopled, situated chiefly in the burgh of
Canongate, and partly in the ancient royalty of Edin-
burgh ; but is so limited that a person may walk
round its boundary-line in 20 minutes. Population,
in 1841, 1,878. Houses 326. According to an eccle-
siastical census taken in 1835, the population was
then 1,703; of whom 654 belonged to the Establish-
ment, 634 belonged to other denominations, 375 were
not known to belong to any religious sect, and 40
concerning whose religious condition no information
could be obtained. The parish-church was built in
1792. Sittings 1,094. Stipend £80.
St. Cuthbert's. This parish is believed to have
anciently contained the city of Edinburgh, the burgh
of Canongate, and the parish of Corstorphine and
Libberton. In its greatest length, quoad civilia, in
1835, it measured upwards of 5 miles, and, in its
greatest breadth, about 3J. But, in 1834, territories
were detached from it and erected into the quoad
sacra parishes of Buccleuch, St. Bernard's, Newing-
ton, and Roxburgh. It is partly landward and partly
town; but, as regards its population, it ischieflv the
latter. Population, in 1831, 70,887; in 1841, 71,984.
Houses, in 1841, 12,784. Supposed population, quoad
sacra, in 1835, 60,000. The parish-church was built
in 1775. Sittings 2,400 Gardner's Crescent chapel
was purchased by the kirk-session in 1831, and cost
them £2,500. Sittings 1,300. The charge of the
parish is collegiate. Patron, the Crown. Stipend of
each of the ministers, variable ; but, in 1833, it was
£338 4s. lid., and, in 1834, £365 16s. Id. One of
the ministers has a manse, and the other £60 for
house-rent. Each receives £15 for communion ex-
penses, and some small additional emoluments The
United Secession congregation, Bristo-street, was
established in 1740. The present church was built
in 1802, and cost £4,084 Ss. 3d. ; and has since been
enlarged and altered at an expense of £1,515 7s. 2d.
Sittings 1,671. The charge has, for some years, been
collegiate. Stipend of the first minister £350, wilh
£16 sacramental expenses; of the second minister
£200 The Reformed Presbyterian congregation,
Lady Lawson's Wynd, was established in 1S04. The
present church was built in 1835, and cost £1,150.
Sittings 540. Stipend £130 The Episcopal con-
gregation of St. James', Broughton-place, was estab-
lished about 1820. The chapel was built about the
same date, and cost about £4,000. Sittings 850.
Stipend £500 The United Secession congregation,
Broughton-place, was established about 1785, and
formerly occupied a chapel in Rose-street. The pre-
sent chapel was built in 1821, and cost £7,095. Sit-
tings 1,599. Stipend £450, with £12 sacramental
expenses. — The Episcopal congregation of St. John's,
Prince's-street, was established in this parish in 1818.
The chapel was built in 1817, and cost £16,013 14s.
Sittings 821. Stipend £550 The Relief congrega-
tion, Bread-street, was established in this parish in
1831. The chapel was built at the same date, and
cost £2,600. Sittings 1,050. 'Stipend £150, with
£10 sacramental expenses The United Secession
congregation, Potterrow, was established in 1792.
The chapel was built in 1793, and cost £1,290; and
was repaired in 1831, at an expense of £300. Sit-
tings 885. Stipend £280, with £20 sacramental ex-
penses The Relief congregation, Pleasance, ori-
ginally occupied the chapel in Brighton-street, which
was used in 1836 by the congregation of New North
parish. Their present chapel, together with another
building, was purchased in 1835 for £2,100. Sit-
tings 690 The Original Seceder congregation,
Richmond-street, was established in Potterrow about
1794, and removed to Richmond-street in 1813. The
meeting-house was built at the latter date, and cost
£2,300. Sittings 760. Stipend £250 The chapel
of the Baptist congregation, Elder-street, was built
in 1814; and, along with a dwelling-house with which
it is connected, cost £1,500. Sittings 480. Stipend
£200 The Wesleyan Methodist congregation has
existed since about 1795, and was established in
this parish in 1815. The chapel was built at
the latter date, and cost about £6,800. Sittings
1,278. Connected with the chapel are a house for
the minister, and a double dwelling-house. Stipend
upwards of £l50, with a house estimated at £28
The Roman Catholic community, having chapels in
Lothian-street and Broughton-place, has partially
468
EDINBURGH.
existed, and met in various localities from time im-
memorial. In 1835, the number " in and about Edin-
burgh," as estimated by their bishop and one of their
priests, was from 12,000 to 14,000. Broughton-
street chapel was opened in 1814. St. Patrick's
chapel, Lothian-street, was opened in 1835, to super-
sede an old and inconvenient chapel in Blackfriar's-
wynd. There are also two private chapels, — one at
St. Margaret's convent, and the other for the Sisters
of Charity at Milton-house. Sittings in Broughton-
place and St. Patrick's jointly, 1,443. The com-
munity have a bishop and four clergymen, who have
unitedly a house connected with Broughton-street
chapel. Emoluments of each of the four clergymen,
£41. The convent or nunnery of St. Margaret's
was founded in 1S34, and, in the following year, had
18 religious. Two resided at Milton-house, in the
Canongate, and devoted themselves to the duties of
Sisters of charity, having under their charge three
schools for the poorer female Roman Catholic chil-
dren, attended by 319. There is also in Edinburgh
a Roman Catholic boys' poor school, which was at-
tended, in 1835, by 264 boys The Unitarian con-
gregation of St. Mark's chapel, Castle-terrace, were
established in their present position in 1835, but pre-
viously met in a chapel in Young-street. St. Mark's
was built in 1835, and cost about £2,000. Sittings
about 700. Stipend =£200 The Society of Friends
have had a meeting-house in Edinburgh since about
1685. The present one, situated in Pleasance, was
built about 1790, and cost about £1,000. Sittings
400 The United Secession congregation, Nicolson-
street, was established in 1747. The present chapel
was built in 1819, and cost £6,000. Sittings 1,170.
Stipend, variable; but, in 1835, it was £250. At
that date also £150 was paid annually to the former
minister. — The United Secession congregation, Lo-
thian-road, was established in 1827, in Gardner's
Crescent chapel. The present place of worship was
built in 1831. Sittings 1,284. Stipend £225.—The
United Secession congregation, Vennel, was estab-
lished in 1792. The present chapel was built on the
site of a former one in 1828, and cost £1,947 19s.
Sittings 832. Stipend £210.— The Relief congre-
gation, St. James's-place, was established in 1796.
The cbapel was built in 1800, and cost £3,600; and
was repaired in 1828, at an expense of £650. Sittings
1,540. Stipend £350. — The Relief congregation,
South College-street, was formed in 1765. The pre-
sent chapel was built in 1797, and cost about £2,000.
Sittings 1,667. Stipend £350.
Buccleuch. This is a quoad sacra parish, dis-
joined from St. Cuthbert's by act of General Assem-
bly, 1834. It is 1£ mile long, and i a mile broad;
and is a town parish. Population, in 1841, 3,130.
Houses, in 1841, 621. The population, according to
ecclesiastical census in 1835, was 2,834 ; of whom,
1,715 belonged to the Establishment, 1,071 belonged
to other denominations, and 48 were not known to
belong to any religious body. The parish-church was
built as a chapel-of-ease, in 1755, and cost £050. It
was afterwards repaired ; and, in 1808-9, it was re-
seated at an expense of £1,300. Sittings 1,374. Sti-
pend £300. In 1834 there were 8 schools, attended
by about 400 scholars.
Newington. This is a quoad sacra parish, dis-
joined from St. Cuthbert's in 1835. It is single and
suburban, but covered with buildings ; and extends,
in extreme length, about J of a mile, and in extreme
breadth, about j of a mile. Population, in 1841,
3,310. Houses, in 1841, 636. The population, ac-
cording to ecclesiastical survey in 1835, was 2,950;
of whom, 1,345 belonged to the Establishment, 952
belonged to other denominations, and 653 were of
no ascertained religious connexion. The parish-
church was built as a chapel-of-ease in 1823, and
cost £6,372. Sittings 1,623. Stipend £350 In
1834, there was an unendowed parochial school, at-
tended by from 160 to 200 scholars. There were
also 7 other schools, attended by a maximum of 212
scholars.
St. Bernard's. This is a quoad sacra parish,
detached from St. Cuthbert's in 1834. It is single
and suburban, and is nearly 14 mile long, and about
J of a mile broad. Population, in 1841, 4,751.
Houses 854. The population, according to eccle-
siastical census in 1835, was 4,043; of whom, 2,372
belonged to the Establishment, 1,601 to other de-
nominations, and 70 were not known to belong to
any religious sect. The parish-church was built as
a chapel-of-ease in 1822, and cost £4,200. Sittings
1,309. Stipend £450 The United Secession con-
gregation, Dean-street, Stockbridge, was established
in 1829. The chapel was built in 1828, for a Relief
congregation, and purchased, in an unfinished state,
in 1829. It ultimately cost £2,100. Sittings 1,200.
Stipend £200, with £12 sacramental expenses In
1 834 there were in the parish 7 schools, attended by
a maximum of 338 scholars.
Roxburgh. This is a quoad sacra parish, dis-
joined from St. Cuthbert's in 1834. It is single and
town, and not above j of a mile square. Popula-
tion, in 1841, 3,683. Houses 686. The population,
according to ecclesiastical survey, in 1 835, was 3,292 ;
of whom, 1,171 belonged to the Establishment, 1,702
belonged to other denominations, and 419 had not
any ascertained religious connexion. The parish-
church was built as a Relief chapel in 1809, and
altered in 1814. The original cost was £2,960; and
the value, in 1835, about £1,400 or £1,500. Sit-
tings 830. Stipend £200. — The Relief congrega-
tion, Roxburgh terrace, assemble in a place of wor-
ship which was originally a dwelling-house, and was
afterwards transmuted into the form of a church.
Sittings 369. Stipend £105. — The Independent
congregation, Richmond-court, was established in
1833. Their place of worship till 1840, was built
about 1795 by a congregation of Baptists. Sittings
325. In 1840, a new and capacious chapel was
opened The Hebrew congregation, Roxburgh-
street, was established in 1817. In 1835, the num-
ber of families was 20, and of individuals about 106
or 110. The place of worship, originally a dwelling-
house, was purchased in 1824 for £350, and convert-
ed into a synagogue at an additional cost of £80.
Stipend of the minister or reader £55. — The Epis-
copalian congregation of St. Peter's, Roxburgh-
place, was established in 1791. The place of wor-
ship consists of the first and second flats of a live-
story tenement, and was originally built at the sole
expense of a clergyman, who first let it at a rent of
£105, and then sold it for £1,575. Sittings 420.
Stipend £78 15s., together with the whole amount
of the collections and offertories.
St. David's. This is a quoad sacra parish, dis-
joined from St. Cuthbert's since 1835, and having
for its parochial church the quondam Gardner's
Crescent chapel, which — as noticed in the statistics
of St. Cuthbert's parish — was, in that year, occu-
pied as a joint parish-church for the whole parish,
quoad ciotlia. Population, in 1841, 2,910. Houses
534.
St. Paul's, Dean, and Morningside. These
are quoad sacra parishes disjoined from St. Cuth-
bert's since 1835, and accommodated with new
churches. The church of the first is situated in
St. Leonard-street; population, in 1841, 2,845: —
of the second, in the vicinity of Dean-bridge ; popu-
lation, in 1841, 1,920: — of the third, in the village
of Morningside ; population, in 1841, 1,648.
EDINBURGH.
469
CENSUS OF EDINBURGH IN 18-41.
T3
IS C
U
T3 .
— a,
1 =
I
6.
a
fa
00
o
E-
O
1. The City, comprehending the ancient and
extended royalties, ....
2. Canongate parish, .
3. St. Cuthbert's parish, ....
4. The Castle, .....
Total population of the city and suburbs,
Population in ISol, .....
Apparent increase, .
But deduct the population of the Castle, which
does not appear to have been mixed up with
that of the city or suburbs in 1331,
Real increase during the last ten years,
PARLIAMENTARY BURGH.
1. The City, as before, ....
2. Canongate parish, do.
3. Part of St. Cuthbert's parish, .
4. Part of South Leith parish,
5. The Castle, as before,
Total in 1841,
653
171
894
8,577
1,499
12,784
11,507
2,130
16,208
24,537
4,169
31,726
825
31,799
4,763
40,178
197
56,336
8,932
71,984
1,022
54,992
10,175
70,887
1,718
653
171
869
45
22,860
8,577
1.499
12,540
559
29,845
11,507
2,130
15,958
705
61,257
60,727
76.937
75,327
138,194
136,054
136,054
I
530
825
1,610
197
2,140
1,022
24,537
4,169
31,132
1,373
825
31,799
4,763
39,590
1,856
197
1,118
56,336
8,932
70,722
3,229
1,022
1,738
23,175
30.300
62,036
78,205
140.241
POPULATION OF THE CITY-PARISHES, EXCLUSIVE
OF THE PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.
Inhabited
Houses.
1. Tolbooth, . . . .297
2. High, ... 466
3. Trinity College, . . 359
4. Old 438
5. Tron, . . . .401
6. New North, . . 337
7. St. John's, . . .272
8. New Greyfriar's, . 344
9. Old Greyfriar's, . .401
10. Lady Y ester's, . . 275
Fam.
J. St. Andrew's,
2. Lady Glenorchy's, quoad
sacra,
3. St. George's,
4. St. Luke's, qtcoad sacra,
5. St. Mary's, . . ,
6. St. Stephen's,
7. Greenside,
696
Total of ancient royalty, 3590 5721 24,390
797 4440
Total of extended royalty, 4987 5786 29,588
Total of ancient royalty, 3590 5721 24,390
Public Institutions of city, — . — 2,358
Total population of city, 8577 11,507 56,336
PARISH OF CANONGATE.
1. The original parish, exclu-
sive of quoad sacra parishes,
2. New-street, quoad sacra,
3. Lcith-wynd, do.
4. Public Institutions,
Inhabited
Houses.
819
351
326
Fara. Pop.
1126
525
479
PARISH OF ST. CUTHBERT S
Inhabited
Houses.
1. The original parish, exclu-
sive of quoad sacra parishes, 8,107
2. Roxburgh, quoad sacra,
3. St. Paul's, do.
4. Newington, do. .
5. Buccleuch, do.
6. jVIorningside, do.
7. St. David's, do.
8- Dean, do-
9. St. Bernard's, do. .
10. Lady Glenorchy's, do.
4697
1932
1878
425
Total of Canongate paiish. 1496 2130 8932
686
613
636
621
325
534
357
854
51
10,609
894
731
748
668
371
669
440
1,007
71
11. Public Institutions,
Pop.
4C.I28
3,633
2,845
3,310
3,130
1,648
2,910
1,920
4,751
315
1,264
Total of St.
parish, .
Cuthbert's
12,784 16,208 71,901
LADY GLENORCHY'S PARISH.
1. Within the City, .
2. Within St. Cuthbert's,
3. Within South Leith parish,
Total of Lady Glenorchy's parish,
Inhabited
Houses.
86
51
244
381
Families.
Population
98
501
71
315
336
1341
505
2157
470
EDINBURGH.
History.
Edinburgh is of so nigh antiquity as to be seen,
in the remote distance of its annals, enveloped in
the thick haze of fable and uncertainty which
ancient history throws round almost all its objects.
Most writers, whatever opinions they entertain re-
specting the origin of the city, are agreed that
the Castle-rock was fortified by the Ottadini long
before their subjugation by the Romans. The
most ancient name on record applied to the rock
is Castelh-Mynyd-Ayned, which means, in the lan-
guage of the Britons, ' the Fortress of the hill of
Agnes.' Either, therefore, the rock was fortified
after the time of St. Agnes, or it was bereft, in
the Christian era, of its original name. At a later
date, when a monkish fable was fabricated as to its
having been the residence of the daughters of the
Pictish kings, it was called Castrum Puellarum.
About or after the year 617, when the Anglo-Saxon
domination in the Lothians had been established, and
when Edwin, a powerful Northumbrian prince of that
race, began his reign, it acquired the name of Edwin 's-
burgh. The Celtic population, moulding the name
into affinity with their language, called it Dun Edin,
and, at the same time, made the name descriptive of
the site, — the words Dun Edin meaning 'the Face
of a hill.' The town probably owed not only its
name, but its origin, to the residence of the Northum-
brian Edwin ; for, according to the statements of
Simon of Durham, it must have been a considerable
village in 854.
In 1093 the Castle was the refuge of the widow
and children of Malcolm Canmore, at the period of
his being slain; and was besieged by Donald Bane,
the brother of Canmore, and the usurper of his throne,
with the view of seizing the heir to the crown. In
the reign of David I. the town, though consisting of
thatched and mean houses, had grown to be one of the
most important in Scotland, and appears to have been
for some time erected into a burgh. David I., in his
charter to the canons of the Abbey of Holyrood, gave
liberty to construct the burgh of Canongate ; and re-
cognised the previous existence of the church of St.
Cuthbert's. William the Lion made Edinburgh castle
his frequent residence, and materially promoted the
progress of the town. But having been made prisoner
during a hostile incursion into England, he surren-
dered it, in 1174, to Henry II., and did not regain it
till his marriage, in 1186, with Ermengard the Eng-
lish princess, who brought it as a dower. In 1215
Edinburgh was the scene of the first parliament of
Alexander II., and, in 1239, of a provincial synod
held by Cardinal L'Aleran, legate of Pope Gregory
IX. Alexander III. resided in the Castle, and made
it the depository of the regalia and the archives ; and
he suffered in it a sort of invasion from the Earl
of Dunbar, at the head of a party attached to the
English interests, who expelled the patriot nobility,
and dictated terms to the king.
The wars of the succession which followed the
death of the Maid of Norway, grandchild to Alexan-
der, involved Edinburgh in serious disasters. In
1291 Edward I., as the acknowledged superior of
Scotland, received a surrender of the Castle, and
next year he received the fealty of the abbot of
Holyrood. The Castle having been withdrawn from
him he captured it, in 1294, after the battle of
Dunbar; and, in 1296, he received the fealty of the
magistrates and inhabitants of the burgh. In 1313
the Castle was re-captured by Sir Thomas Randolph,
Earl of Moray ; and it was afterwards stripped of its
fortifications by Robert Bruce. In. 1322 the abbey
of Holyrood was plundered by the army of Edward
II. ; in 1326 it was the scene of one of the parlia-
ments of Robert Bruce ; and, in 1328, it accommo-
dated the celebrated parliament in which the repre-
sentatives of burghs were first admitted among the
seats, and which confirmed the treaty of Edward
III. acknowledging the independence of Scotland.
In 1334 the usurper and vassal-prince, Edward Baliol,
held a parliament in Holyrood, and agreed to surren-
der to Edward III. the Castle, town, and county ol
Edinburgh. In 1336 Guy, Count of Namur, ap-
proaching the town with an army in the service of
the English king, the Earl of Moray encountered him
on Borough moor, drove his forces in headlong con-
fusion into Edinburgh, and pent up a portion of them
to slaughter in the narrow lane of St. Mary's-wynd,
and chased the rest to a precarious and temporary
retreat on the bare rock of the Castle. In 1337
Edward III. rebuilt the Castle, and left it in charge
of a strong garrison. In 1341, by means of as expert
a stratagem as a fertile imagination could have in-
vented, or a brave heart carried into execution, Sir
William Douglas, the Black Knight of Liddesdale,
recovered the Castle to the patriots, and greatly con-
tributed by the event to the expulsion of the English
from Scotland.
The hostile incursions of the English being sus-
pended, Edinburgh grew into more consideration.
Robert Bruce had already bestowed on the burgh
the harbour and mills of Leith. During the reign of
David II. it was the seat of numerous parliaments,
and the source of frequent issues of coin, and con-
fessedly the chief town, though not yet the actual
capital, of Scotland. During the reign of Robert II.,
in 1384, a company of French knights having arrived
in the town to aid the arbitrary schemes of the king,
the church of St. Giles was occupied as the scene
of deliberation respecting a predatory warfare on the
borders. Edinburgh, then the royal residence, was
called by Froissart, who accompanied the French
knights, the Paris of Scotland, and described as
consisting of 4,000 houses, so poor that they could
not afford the knights due accommodation. In 1385
Richard II. making an excursion into Scotland, gave
St. Giles, the abbey of Holyrood, and the whole
town to the flames; and, after looking on for five
days in vengeful triumph, left all in ashes except the
Castle. John Stewart, Earl of Carrick, who acted
as the king's lieutenant, and who soon after succeed-
ed to the throne under the name of Robert III., now
granted permission to the citizens to raise habitations
within shelter of the Castle- walls. In 1400 the
Castle was repeatedly assaulted by Henry IV., but
successfully defended by the Duke of Rothesay, the
heir-apparent to the Scottish crown. In 1402 a par-
liament was held in Edinburgh to inquire into the
assassination of the Duke of Rothesay. While James
I. was a prisoner in England, Edinburgh partook of
the desolation which swept generally over the coun-
try. In 1416 the Castle was taken by Archibald,
fourth Earl of Douglas, but restored in 1418 ; and,
in 1423, when a ransom was proposed to be given
for the king's release, the town had advanced so far
in prosperity as to be able to contribute to the object
50,000 merks of English money. After the king's
return, in 1424, he often honoured Edinburgh with
his residence ; and, in 1429, he received, before the
high altar of the church of Holyrood, the abject sub-
mission of Alexander, the rebellious Lord of the Isles.
In 1430 the queen was delivered of twins, one of them
the future James II., in the abbey of Holyrood. In
1431 the town was scourged with pestilence ; and,
in 1436, it was the scene of the last parliament of
James I.
On the murder of James I., in 1436-7, Edinburgh
became, in every sense, the metropolis of Scotland.
EDINBURGH.
471
From the reign of David II. it Lad, in all public transac-
tions, held the place of primary burgh, and had been
frequently the seat of parliaments and the royal
abode ; but it shared its honours with other towns, and
wanted in point of favour what it might have justly
claimed in point of paramount importance and power.
Now, however, its title to entire metropolitan dignity
became fully recognised. Neither Perth, Stirling,
nor any other resort of the king and court possessing
sufficient means to protect the royal family from the
murderous attacks of ferocious nobles, James II. —
then only 7 years of age — fled or was conveyed, after
the assassination of his father, to Edinburgh castle ;
and, in the same year, was crowned and held his first
parliament in the abbey of Holyrood, and set up in
the city the machinery of his government. During
the years 1438, 1439, and 1440, the Castle was the
scene of frequent contests and intrigues respecting the
keeping of the king's person. In 1444 Crichton, the
ablest man in Scotland, having, as the victim of fac-
tion, been dismissed from the high office of chancellor,
provisioned the Castle and gave defiance to Douglas
of Balveny, the royal favourite. Next year, his
estates having been escheated by a parliament held
in the city, and partly laid waste by miUtary emis-
saries of the favourite, Crichton salbed from the
Castle, and, after inflicting severe retaliation, re-
turned within its walls. Being now besieged by the
king in person, he defended himself with such skill
and resolution that the Castle was gladly accepted
from him, in 1445-6, on terms of capitulation, which
involved his restoration to his office and to the royal
favour. During these troubles, and up to 145b',
James II. lavished upon the city such grants and
immunities as made it much more indebted for its
prosperity to him than to any other monarch. Among
other favours, were permission to fortify the town
with a wall, and levy a tax to defray the cost, — ex-
emption of burgesses from the payment of any duties
except a petty custom, — a grant of all the vale be-
tween Craigend gate on the east, and the highway
leading to Leith on the west, — and a grant of the
* haven silver' and customs on ships entering the
roadstead and harbour of Leith. In 1449 Mary of
Gueldres, after having been espoused by proxy to
James II. at Gueldres, was married to him in person,
and pompously crowned in the abbey of Holyrood.
In 1460 James II. having been killed by the bursting
of a cannon at the siege of Roxburgh castle, was
brought a corpse to the city he had enriched with
his munificence, and interred on the spot where he
had received his crown. His queen, who had imi-
tated his taste in raising the dignity of the metro-
polis, and had founded and endowed Trinity church
and hospital, died three years after him, and was laid
in the church which she had reared.
James III., throughout his inefficient reign, con-
ferred on Edinburgh the advantages of his resi-
dence and of several immunities. In 1461 Henry
VI., after his defeat at Towton, sought refuge in
Scotland, and was honourably entertained for a time
in the capital. In 1469 the Princess Margaret of
Denmark was married to the King, and crowned,
amid splendid pageantry, in the abbey of Holyrood.
In 1475 the city was so desolated with pestilence
that parliament, though summoned, failed to as-
semble. In 1477 James III. gave to the city a
charter minute, and now very curious, establishing
the sites of its markets. In 1478 began those in-
trigues at Edinburgh of the king's brother, the
Duke of Albany, to supplant him in the throne,
which issued in extensive disasters to the town and
country, and eventually terminated in the king's
death. Albany, having been imprisoned in the
Castle, effected his escape to France ; and passing
thence, in 1482, into England, bargained with Ed-
ward IV. to hold the crown of Scotland under him,
as superior of the realm. The Duke of Gloucester,
deputed by the English king, marched on Edinburgh ;
and meeting no resistance, was induced by Albany to
spare the town from a destruction with which he had
menaced it, "only taking such presents," saith Hall,
" as the merchants genteelly offered him." The Eng-
lish Garter King-at-arms now ascended the platform
of the cross, and summoned the Scottish king, who
had taken refuge in the Castle, to perform all he had
promised to Edward IV., and to pardon Albany.
The citizens, evincing both their wealth and their
patriotism, agreed to repay to the English king
certain sums which he had advanced in considera-
tion of a concerted marriage between his daughter
and James' son ; and, the Duke of Gloucester having
been wiled away by the permanent cession of the
town of Berwick, and the Duke of Albany having
been pardoned by a formal act of forgiveness, the
provost and citizens, assisted by the latter, processed
to the Castle to escort the king from his durance.
James III. and Albany mutually embraced, and then
rode together to Holyrood-house, amid the tumul-
tuous joy of a deluded people ; and the king bestowed
on the inhabitants some munificent expressions of his
gratitude for their patriotism in the season of his dis-
tress. At the close of 1482 Albany, immediately
after having been received into favour, and injudi-
ciously constituted Lieutenant-general of the realm,
intrigued once more against the king. James III.,
however, by retiring into the Castle, and rousing the
citizens, disappointed his purposes of treason. Edin-
burgh, by its loyalty to the sovereign, and especially
by its prompt performance of all its stipulations with
England, obtained great praise, and, in reference to
the ample resources which it evinced itself to possess,
was called by the Continuator of the Annals of Croy-
land *' ditissimum oppidum." Early in 1488 the king,
hard pressed by a powerful combination of insurgents,
and obliged to leave the city and flee to the north,
deposited his treasure and valuable effects in the
Castle, and supplied it with ordnance and provisions
to sustain a siege ; but he was assassinated in the
same year, and proved to have been only heaping up
store for his murderers.
Late in 1488, the first parliament of James IV.
assembled in Edinburgh, amid the guilty triumphs
of rebellious faction; and for some time succeeding
the early part of the next year, the castle, town,
and shire were under the domination of Patrick,
Earl of Bothwell. As James IV. grew up in years,
he frequently invited the knights of every country
to tournaments at Edinburgh, and took great delight
in rendering the city a busy scene of magnificent
entertainments. In 1503 the king was, with gor-
geous parade and pomp, married, at Holyrood-house,
to Lady Margaret, the eldest daughter of Henry VII.
In 1508 the printing-press was introduced to Edin-
burgh by Chapman & Millar, under a royal charter ;
and it produced curious specimens, some of which
are still preserved in the Advocates' library. About
the same time, the king, continuing to reside in the
capital, entertained the French ambassador at great
expense, and with coarse profusion. In 1513, while
a dreadful plague had broken out and was desolat-
ing Edinburgh, James, preparing for a hapless war,
busied himself in inspecting his artillery in the Castle
and the outfit of his navy at Newhaven ; and, having
summoned the whole array of his kingdom to as-
semble on the Borough-moor, he marched thence to
his disastrous defeat and violent death on the field
of Flodden.
The magistrates and numerous burgesses of Edin-
burgh having followed the late king in his fatal expe-
472
EDINBURGH.
dition, drew upon the city apprehensions of fearful
retaliation. All men able to bear arms were instantly
ordered to stand, if necessary, to the defence of the
walls; and other vigorous measures were adopted to
maintain a stern resistance. But the privy-council
withdrew for some months to Stirling; and there
James V. was crowned. Early in 1514 the magistrates
of Edinburgh, fearful of disasters with which the city
seemed menaced, raised a permanent city-guard of
24 men, levied .£500 Scots for the extending of the
fortifications and the purchase of artillery, and or-
dered the erection of the second or southern wall,
considerable part of which at Laurieston and Drum-
mond-street still stands. In 1515 the putative Duke
of Albany, to whom all eyes were turned for giving
stability to the fragile and shattered government,
and vigour to the Scottish arms, was received in
Edinburgh with unwonted magnificence and proces-
sional demonstrations of feeling: and he proclaimed
at the cross the peace for Scotland which France
had negociated with England. In the same year a
parliament which assembled in the city, appointed
him protector and governor of Scotland during the
minority of the infant king. But Albany, though
residing at Holyrood-house, and wielding all the
power of royalty, thought himself insecure unless he
should obtain command of the young king and his
mother's persons, who had retired to the Castle.
Forcible measures were adopted which first drove
the queen to take flight with the young prince to
Stirling, — next compelled her to yield up the fortress
of that town, and return to Edinburgh castle,. — and
next converted the latter place into a state-prison
for the infant monarch. In the meantime, the town
became the scene of frequent tumults and copious
bloodshed, from contentions among the nobles, and
from strifes for superiority in the magistracy. On
one occasion, upwards of 200 men were slain on the
streets in a melee, popularly commemorated under
the odd name of " Cleanse the causeway," between
the Hamiltons and the Douglases. On another oc-
casion, there was an encounter with similar results,
between the partizans of the Earls of Huntly and
Moray, and those of Lords Rothes and Lindsay.
These facts, and others of kindred character which
•occurred, evince that, under the regency of Albany,
the metropolis enjoyed neither the amenity of civil-
ized manners, nor the most ordinary protection of
■common law. In 1519 and 1520, while Albany was
absent in France, the city lay prostrate beneath the
twofold scourge of devastation by the plague, and of
the ascendency of lawless violence maintained with
the aid of an armed force from the borders. In 1522,
Albany having returned from France, a parliament
held in the city authorized the removal of the young
king from the Castle to Stirling, but was too feeble
to reform the popular profligacy of manners, or to
strengthen the weakness of the laws. At the close
of 1523, Albany met the parliament at Edinburgh
for the last time: and in May 1524, he departed for
ever from Holyrood-house to France, leaving the
Scottish government and the police of the metro-
polis in a state of utter confusion.
In July 1524, the queen brought James V., now
in his 13th year from Stirling to Edinburgh, and
caused proclamation to be made that he had assumed
the government. In November of this same year,
while parliament was sitting, the Earl of Angus,
who had been married to the queen, broke into
Edinburgh, with several other chiefs and 400 armed
followers; and. having vaunted or proclaimed them-
selves at the cross to be good subjects, went to the
council of state, and demanded that the queen should
be deprived of the guardianship of the infant king.
The Castle immediately fired upon the town, and
killed several innocent persons; and Angus, menaced,
along with his fellow-insurgents, by a body of hack-
butters who had been called out against him, and
having received a mandate from the king to retire
from the city, withdrew to Dalkeith. Early in
1525, a coalition and division of patronage having
been effected between the queen and her opponents,
the young king, who had taken refuge in the Castle,
removed his residence to Holyrood-house, and after-
wards went in person to meet his parliament in the
Tolbooth, his crown being borne before him by
Angus. In 1525, Angus acquired such an ascend-
ency as, while he dictated to the whole kingdom,
enabled him to subject the metropolis to the will,
and impoverish it for the pampering of his creatures ;
and, from that date till his final disgrace and for-
feiture in 1528, he occasioned continual disturbances
and tumultuous movements both in Edinburgh and
throughout the country, in opposing first the queen
and next the monarch. About 1528, additional ex-
citements arose in the city from the private diffusion
of the principles of the Reformation. In May 1532,
after various establishments for the administration
of equity had been tried and rejected, the college of
justice, or system of national law-courts the same
in limine which exists at present, was founded. This
event was the greatest in intrinsic importance which
had yet graced the annals ol the city, and imme-
diately raised the dignity and influence of the city,
and occasioned it to become the resort of many fami-
lies from among the best portion of the community
who possessed a competency of worldly wealth. In
the same year, and during two or three years fol-
lowing, the magistrates, and even the parliament,
adopted measures to remove nuisances which hitherto
had defiled or obstructed the streets, and diffused
putridity among the lanes, and occasioned the lam-
poonings of wit and the severities of satire; and they
now ordered the thoroughfares to be paved, lanthorns
to be hung out at night, the meal-market to be re-
moved from High-street to " some honest place,"
where it would be no obstruction, and a substantial
wall to be built from Netherbow to Trinity College
church. In August 1534, Norman Gourlay and
David Straiton were tried and condemned, at Holy-
rood-house, for the heresy of the Protestant faith,
and executed at Greenside. In 1537, Magdalene,
the first consort of James V., arrived from France at
Leith, made a triumphal entrance into Edinburgh
amid magnificent processions and joyous acclaims,
and, in forty days, was carried a corpse to the royal
tomb in Holyrood abbey. In July 1538, Mary of
Guise, James V.'s second wife, entered Edinbiugh
amid similar greetings to those which had been ac-
corded to her predecessor, and was treated by the
citizens with rich presents, and " with farces and
plays." At the close of 1542, James V., having died
at Falkland, was buried in Holyrood by the side of
his first wife.
The regents Arran and Beaton having rejected
some ambitious schemes of Henry VIII. respecting
the person of their infant Queen Mary, who was
only a week old at her father's death, the Earl of
Hertford arrived in the Forth with a numerous fleet
and army, and, besides inflicting numerous devasta-
tions on other towns and the country, set fire to
Edinburgh, burnt the abbey and palace of Holyrood,
and made an unsuccessful attempt upon the Castle.
In 1548, the city, after being again menaced by an
English force, was garrisoned by part of a French
reinforcement of 6,000 men under D'Esse. In 1.551,
the queen-dowager, after conveying her infant-daugh-
ter to France, was received, on her return to Edin-
burgh, with distinguished honours; and in 1554,
having been constituted regent of the kingdom, she
EDINBURGH.
473
encouraged plays in the city, and cajoled the magis-
trates to defray much of the expense. In October
1555, John Knox arrived in the city, and speedily
occasioned a shifting of its scenes. Next year a
concourse of people assembled in and around Black-
friars' church, to protect him from the hostile pro-
ceedings of an ecclesiastical judicatory. Early in
1557, Knox having gone to Geneva, Harlow and
Willock, two other reformers, arrived, and success-
fully preached their doctrine in Edinburgh and Leith.
In December of the same year, a few nobles signed
the first covenant in Edinburgh, and were the germ
of " the Congregation." In June 1558, an invasion
from England being apprehended, the burgesses of
Edinburgh voluntarily agreed to maintain upwards
of 700 armed men for the defence of the city. Next
month, the reformers and the queen-regent came to
an open rupture. On the anniversary of St. Giles,
when the priests carried an effigy of the patron saint
with great processional pomp along the streets, the
populace flamed forth in indignation, dispersed the
ecclesiastics, and tore the effigy in pieces. In 1559,
Knox having returned from Geneva, and the army
of the congregation approaching the town from the
north, the magistrates ordered all the gates except
two to be shut, and these two to be guarded ; and
they sent commissioners to meet the reformers at
Linlithgow, and treat with them ; and placed a guard
of sixty men to protect St. Giles' church. When
the army of the congregation entered Edinburgh,
they took possession of ttie mint, and of the offices
of government ; but found the work of upsetting
popish altars, and destroying the paraphernalia of
popish ceremonies, and converting monasteries into
private dwellings, sufficiently accomplished by the
populace. Open hostilities now occurred in regular
warfare between the troops of the reformed, and the
troops of the queen-regent. Leith, which was in a
fortified condition, was the head-quarters of the
Romish or government party, who were aided by
the opportune arrival of an auxiliary force from
France; Edinburgh was the head-quarters of the
reformed party, and entirely in their possession ; and
the fine plain which stretches between the Calton-
hill and Leith, was the scene of frequent skirmishes
and resolute onslaughts. The irregular troops of
the reformed could ill cope with the well-disciplined
auxiliaries frorr. France; but, eventually aided by a
force from Elizabeth of England, they succeeded,
about the middle of 1560, to expel the queen-regent's
forces from the kingdom, to dismantle Leith, and to
remove every hinderance to the ascendency and the
civil establishment of the principles for which they
contended. Edinburgh, now in undisputed posses-
sion of the reformers, and entirely freed from the
influences which had hitherto swayed it, underwent
an almost entire change of moral aspect, yet did not
pass through the transition without some ebullitions
of popular feeling, and some riotous movements on
the part of small portions of its people. Women
were prohibited from keeping taverns; the market-
day was changed from Sunday to Saturday and Mon-
day; measures were adopted for the suppression of
immorality; the reformed religion was introduced to
all the places of worship, and enforced on the atten-
tion of the whole population ; and on the 20th De-
cember, 1560, the first General Assembly of the
Kirk assembled under the local sanction of the ma-
gistrates.
In August 1561, Mary, the young queen, arrived
at Leith from France ; and she made a public entry
into Edinburgh amid clamorous and showy demon-
strations both of welcome to her person, and of
caution against interference with the recent changes
in religion. Splendid dresses were prepared; the
public streets were ornamented; and as she issued
from the Castle, where she dined, a boy descended,
as if from a cloud, and delivered to her a Bible, a
psalter, the keys of the Castle gates, and some verses
containing "terrible significations of the vengeance
of God upon idolaters." Having arranged her gov-
ernment at Holyrood-house, she set out on a pro-
gress to visit her principal towns throughout the
country, and left the metropolis, as she found it,
wholly under the power of the reformers. In June
1562, the town-council ordered the figure of St.
Giles to be displaced from the banner of the city,
and substituted by the thistle; and ordained that no
one should be eligible to any civic office who was
not of the reformed faith. In May 1563, the queen,
dressed in her robes and wearing her crown, met her
parliament in the capital, and concurred in an act of
oblivion as to the proceedings of the Lords of the
Congregation. Edinburgh, with Knox for its min-
ister, and the General Assembly for its most influen-
tial court, now gave tone to the whole country, ami
lifted the spirit of religious reform up to a point of
high dominance which was sufficiently menacing to
the adherents of popery, and little careful of pleasing
the monarch. On the 28th July, 1565, Lord Darn-
ley was proclaimed king at the market-cross ; and at
5 o'clock on the following morning was married to
the queen within the chapel of Holyrood. On the
9th March, 1566, David Rizzio was assassinated in
the queen's presence in her supper-apartment at
Holyrood ; and on the 19th June of the same year,
she was delivered, in a small room in the Castle, of
her son James. On tne 10th February, 1567, Darn-
ley, then lying in a convalescent state in the house
of Kirk of Field, was blown up with gunpowder;
and on the 15th May following, Bothwell, who was
believed to have been the author of Darnley's mur-
der, and who had repudiated his wife, was married
to the queen in Holyrood, by Adam Bothwell, bishop
of Orkney. On the 6th of June, a smouldering
popular indignation having begun to belch up in
flames, Mary and her husband fled from the city,
pursued by 800 horsemen. On the 11th, the asso-
ciated insurgents, amounting to 3,000 men, marched
upon Edinburgh, and though the gates were shut
against them, easily entered, and took possession of
the seat and the powers of government. On the
14th, she was brought from Carberry-hill (see Car-
berry-hill) to Edinburgh, and conducted through
the streets, amid popular insults, to the house of Sir
Simon Preston, the provost; and next day, she was
sent off a prisoner to Lochleven castle. Her valu-
ables within Holyrood-house were seized ; her plate
sent to the mint to be converted into coin; and her
chapel in Holyrood spoiled of its furniture and orna-
ments, and generally demolished. The last of these
acts, however, was chargeable, not on the body of
the successful insurgent chiefs, but only on the Earl
of Glencairn : see Holyrood.
A government was now formed in the name of
James VI., the infant son of Mary; and on the 22d
of August, 1567, the Earl of Murray was proclaimed,
at the cross of Edinburgh, the regent of the king-
dom. At the coronation of the infant king in the
church of Stirling, three of the magistrates of Edin-
burgh attended to represent the city. In 1568, when
the nation was violently excited by Mary's escape
from her imprisonment and the brief civil war which
followed, the metropolis was in arms to repress in-
surrection, and was, at the same time, desolated
with pestilence. On intelligence of the regent Mur-
ray's assassination in January 1569-70, at Linlith-
gow, the city was thrown into great confusion, and
put under a strong guard night and day; and the
Lords of the court of session were with difficulty
474
EDINBURGH.
dissuaded from abandoning it as too tumultuous a
scene to be the seat of tbeir court. The chiefs of
the queen's party marched upon Edinburgh from
Linlithgow, and were received within the walls by
Kirkcaldy, the governor of the Castle, the provost
of the town, and one of the ablest soldiers of the
period. Kirkcaldy ordered all who opposed the
queen to leave the town within six hours, seized
the arms of the citizens, planted a battery on the
tower of St. Giles', and repaired the walls and
strengthened the gates of the city. A war now
commenced within the limits of the metropolis and
its suburbs, the miseries of which did not soon come
to an end. In May 1571, two parliaments sat in the
harassed city, — the one on the queen's side, in the
Tolbooth, — and the other, on the king's side, in the
Canongate. While the two legislatures fulminated
forfeitures at each other, their respective partizans
fought frequent skirmishes in the neighbourhood and
the streets. The Castle was kept for the queen,
with great superiority of advantage; and Holyrood-
house was retained for the king by the regent Len-
nox. A small army, sent from Berwick by Eliza-
beth, eventually crushed the queen's party, and, on
the 29th May, 1573, forced the Castle to capitulate.
Kirkcaldy and his brother, though they surrendered
on the understanding of being favourably treated,
■were hanged at the cross. The quick succession of
four regents, who fell amidst the furies of civil war,
neither quieted the nation, nor brought peace to the
metropolis.
At length, in March 1577-8, James VI. himself
came upon the unsettled stage. Having summoned
a parliament to meet in Edinburgh, and resolved to
remove his residence from Stirling, he made a mag-
nificent entry into the metropolis on the 17th Octo-
ber, 1579, and passed to the palace of Holyrood, with
a cavalcade of 2,000 horse. In December 1580, the
Earl of Morton was called to account by the privy-
council for his many crimes, and, in particular, for
being accessary to the murder of Darnley. He was
first warded in Holyrood, next sent to the Castle,
next removed under a strong guard to Dumbarton,
and eventually brought back to Edinburgh, and guil-
lotined with the infamous instrument called "the
Maiden," which he himself, it is believed, introduced
to the country, and which afterwards drank the
blood of patriots and martyrs. When the king's
provocation of his reformed subjects by his attempted
extensions of the royal prerogative, led, in 158^, to
his capture in the raid of Ruthven, the conspirators
brought him to Holyrood-house, and demanded of the
magistrates a body of hackbutters to guard him in
the palace. In January 1583 two ambassadors ar-
rived from France to solicit his freedom. The king
ordered the magistrates to entertain them with a
banquet. But the ministers of the city appointed
the day of feasting to be a day of fasting, and occu-
pie:l the whole of it in successive religious services
in St. Giles', in the course of which they used lan-
guage less measured than the taste of a later age
would approve respecting all the parties connected
with the banquet. The king, having freed himself
from thraldom, established a guard of forty gentle-
men on horseback for the protection of his person,
and made adequate provision for the governor of the
Castle. Having arrived, in 1587, at the legal age
of twenty-one, he made a royal banquet in Holyrood-
house for reconciling his factious nobles ; and, with
puerile conceit, made irascible men walk hand in
hand to the cross, and there partake a collation of
wine and sweetmeats provided by the magistrates,
and pledge one another in the juice of the grape to
mutual forgiveness and future amity. When intel-
ligence arrived in August 1588, of the approach of
the Spanish Armada, the magistrates commanded the
citizens to provide themselves with arms in order to
guard the coasf, and raised a body of 300 men to
defend the city. James was in the practice of
ordering the magistrates to entertain his friends,
and, by draining their coffers with the costs of ban-
quets, he brought the metropolis into a less opu-
lent condition than had graced it during several
preceding reigns ; and now, in the prospect of his
marriage with the princess Anne of Denmark, he
commanded the magistrates to find suit.ible accom-
modation and entertainment for the royal bride,
from the time of her arrival at Leith till Holyrood-
house could be duly fitted out for her reception.
The magistrates paid 5,000 merks to be excused ;
and afterwards, when the bride was driven back by
adverse winds, and when James himself, with more
enterprise than he was supposed to possess, deter-
mined to cross the ocean and convey her home, they
provided him, at enormous cost, with a beautiful and
commodious ship for the voyage. In May 1590 the
royal pair arrived at Leith, and were received in
Edinburgh with acclamations of welcome ; and six
days after their arrival the queen was crowned in
Holyrood. In December 1590 the Earl of Bothwell
having broken into the palace at the hour of supper,
and laboured by fire and demolition to overcome ob-
structions in his way to the king's apartment, the
citizens ran to the rescue, forced Bothwell to flee,
and captured eight of his followers, who were exe-
cuted on the morrow. In September 1593 James
vainly renewed attempts, which he had formerly
made, to dictate to the city in the choice of its coun-
cil and magistrates; and in November he even issued
a proclamation, forbidding any person to enter Edin-
burgh without his leave. In February 1594, when
the queen was delivered of Prince Henry at Stirling
the town-council of Edinburgh presented the king
with ten tuns of wine, and sent 100 citizens, richly
accoutred, to attend the baptism ; and next year,
when Bothwell continued to raise treasonous tu-
mults, they appointed the sovereign a body-guard of
fifty citizens. In September 1595 the boys of the
High school broke into rebellion ; and one of them
fired a pistol from the school-house, and shot one of
the magistrates who bad been summoned to reduce
them to order. In August 1596, when the princess
Elizabeth was born, the magistrates were invited to
the baptism in Holyrood-house ; and they made a
promise of 10,000 merks to be paid to the princess
on the day of her marriage. — a promise which not
only was fulfilled, but raised to 15,000 merks. In
December 1596 the clergy and citizens, irritated and
alarmed at what they believed to be menacing inter-
ferences of the king with religious liberty, a serious
tumult broke out in the city, and rolled along toward
the town-house to attack the king and his council,
who sat in consultation. The provost and magis-
trates opportunely came upon the theatre, and, by
skilful management, assuaged the storm. James fled
from the city, issued a proclamation which painted
in dark colours the objects of the uproarious but
harmless tumult, and sent a charge to the magistrates
to arrest the ministers, and, in consequence, obliged
the latter to flee from the country. The privy-
council also declared the tumult to have been traitor-
ous ; the several judicatories were removed to Leith ;
and the Court of Session was directed to sit at Pertli
after January 1597. The town-council, as well as
the inhabitants, were now completely alarmed, and
sent a deputation of citizens to Linlithgow, to make
unquabfied submissions, and to sue for pardon. James
made a public entry into the city with great ceremony,
and, in March 1597 — moved partly by the people's tears
and 30,000 merks of their money, and partly by. the in-
EDINBURGH.
475
terposition of Elizabeth of England — formally pardon-
ed the tumult, and drank with the provost and magis-
trates in token of reconciliation. In 1599 the king
came once more into collision with the ministers of
Edinburgh, he having invited to the city a company
of English players, and the presbytery denouncing
histrionic performances as positively sinful. This
company of actors was the first who appeared on a
Scottish stage after the Reformation, and is supposed
to have included _Shakspeare. In 1600 Robert Bruce,
the favourite minister of the city, and four of his
clerical brethren, were banished by proclamation at
the cross, and forbidden, on pain of death, to preach
or to come within 10 miles of the king's residence,
for the crime of being sceptical as to the .reality of
the Gowrie conspiracy; and the dead bodies of the
Earl of Gowrie and his brother were brought from
Perth to Edinburgh, and hung up at the market-
cross as the bodies of traitors.
James having succeeded to the crown of England
by the demise of Elizabeth, on the 24th March, 1603,
many persons hastened from London to Edinburgh
with the welcome news. On the 31st March the
nobility and the Lyon King-at-arms proclaimed the
event at the cross. On the Sabbath previous to his
departure for England, he attended public worship in
St. Giles', and, at the close of the sermon, delivered
a formal valedictory address. At this period, and
during some subsequent years, Edinburgh, in com-
mon with other Scottish towns, severely suffered by
frequent visitations of plague. In 1608 James em-
powered the magistrates to wear gowns, and to have
a sword of state carried before them in their proces-
sions. In 1616 the king, in fulfilment of a promise
made at his departure, paid a visit to Edinburgh.
Arriving at the West Port, he was received by the
magistrates in their robes, and some citizens in velvet
habits ; and was treated to an oration by the town-
clerk, abounding in the most fulsome and rhapsodical
flattery. The citizens afterwards entertained him
with a sumptuous banquet, and presented him with
10,000 merks of double golden angels, in a silver
bason. In June 1617 James convened his 22d par-
liament in Edinburgh, and sanctioned, or rather in-
stigated, its passing decrees for the resuscitation of
prelacy, and the improved support of the Castle.
After presiding at a scholastic disputation of the
professors of the university, he departed in Septem.
ber 1617 for London. News of his death, in Mareh
1625, having arrived, the ministers of the city praised
him, in funeral sermons, as a most peaceable and re-
ligious prinee.
On the 31st March, 1625, Charles I. was proclaimed
at the cross ; and the town-council agreed to advance
to him the assessment of the city, and to contribute
to the maintenance of 10,000 men ; and they, at the
same time, provided for the city-guard, and for the
discipline of all the citizens. On the 12th June, 1633,
Charles visited Edinburgh, to be crowned king of
Scotland. He was received at the West Port by the
magistrates in red furred gowns, and 60 councillors
in velvet dresses; and conducted along the streets
with a display of pageantry more gorgeous than had
graced the public entry of his father, and indicating
an increase in eivic wealth. On the 18th he was
crowned in the Abbey church of Holy-rood with un-
wonted splendour; and on the 20th he assembled his
first Scottish parliament, mainly for the purpose, as
would appear, of carrying out his projects in favour
of prelacy, and the introduction of a liturgy. By
the acts of this parliament, and by the erection of
the bishopric of Edinburgh, his brief residence,
though hailed at the moment with demonstrations
of delight, ignited a smouldering, and far-spreading,
and fierce fire of discontent. Scarcely had he re-
turned to London when the hidden fire burst forth
into a blaze. When the liturgy, which was chiefly
copied from that of England, was read in St. Giles-,
a tumult ensued. In October 1637 a great concourse
of persons of every rank resorted to Edinburgh to
avow their discontent, and declare their opposition.
A proclamation, commanding them to disperse, only
produced a new tumult. The withdrawal of the
privy-council and the court of session to Linlith-
gow was followed by increased uproar and confusion.
During 1638 discontent was animated into organized
insurrection. A convocation assembled in Edinburgh
to oppose the liturgy, and adopted the strong mea-
sure of renewing the Covenant. The magistrates
now ordered the citizens to prepare for war; and the
Covenanters, on their side, drew to arms. On the
22d September proclamation was made — but at too
late a date, and in too exacerbated a condition of
the popular feeling — that the liturgy was abandoned.
In December the Covenanters beleagured the Castle,
and were aided by the town-council with a force of
500 men, and a subsidy of .£50,000 Scotch. But a
pacification taking place in May 1639, at Berwick,
the Castle was delivered to the Marquis of Hamilton
as the King's officer. A parliament, which sat in
Edinburgh in December 1639, broke up amid mutual
criminations of unconstitutional conduct. In 1640
fresh preparations were begun for determined war.
The magistrates appointed a night-guard, exercised
the citizens in arms, and raised fortifications to de-
fend the town against the Castle. Ruthven, the
governor of the Castle, fired upon the city ; but
being invested by Lesley, the general of the Cove-
nanters, was forced to surrender. The treaty of Ripon
put an end to hostilities. In August 1641 Charles
revisited Edinburgh, and pardoned and conciliated
the insurgents. Having been well-received by the
magistrates, and sumptuously entertained at the cost
of £12,000 Scotch, he departed in November. The
magistrates still adhered to the Covenant, and raised
for its support a regiment of 1,200 men, at the ex-
pense of ±'60,000 Scotch. In October 1643 the
Solemn League and Covenant was sworn in St. Giles'.
In Mareh 1645 a plague again desolated the city;
but happily was the last with which it has been
afflicted.
After the execution of Charles I. Edinburgh joined
in the national engagement in favour of Charles II.,
and engaged to contribute a quota of 1,200 men.
But, in lieu of the men, the town-council afterwards
offered to pay £40,000 Scotch ; yet, in consequence
of impoverishment by plague and civil war, they were
in so disastrous a predicament that they first thought
of borrowing the money, and next pleaded ex-
emption from paying it, on the ground that it had
been promised in an unlawful cause. In May 1650
the Marquis of Montrose was brought a prisoner into
the city, conveyed along the streets in ignominious
parade, tried and condemned by the parliament, and
publicly executed at the cross. Having obtained the
consent of the exiled Charles II. to be their king, the
magistrates, in July 1650, proclaimed him at the
cross. Lesley, the eommander of the Scottish
troops, having been subdued at Dunbar, on the 3d
September, by Cromwell, who had crossed the
Tweed and menaced the metropolis, Edinburgh
was abandoned to its own fears, and left by the
magistrates without a government. On the 7th
September Cromwell took possession of the city,
and three months later forced the Castle to capi-
tulate. In December 1651 the magistrates returned
and resumed the government. Commissioners from
Cromwell for ruling Scotland having arrived, in Jan-
uary 1652, at Dalkeith, the citizens of Edinburgh
were so humbled that they felt obliged to ask their
476
EDINBURGH.
consent before proceeding to elect new magistrates.
The metropolis now enjoyed, for several years, a de-
gree of repose to which it had long been a stranger;
but it was so impoverished that scarcely a person
was able to pay a debt, — the city itself being unable
to satisfy a claim upon it for £55,000 sterling. When
intelligence arrived in 1660 of the Restoration, the
town-council addressed a letter to the king, congra-
tulating him on his recovery of the throne; the town-
clerk made a journey to London, and presented
.£1,000 sterling for the royal acceptance; and the
citizens expressed their joy by partaking of a sump-
tuous feast at the market-cross. Charles ratified
some old privileges, empowered the magistrates to
levy a new civic tax, abolished the English tribunals
in Scotland, and directed a parliament to meet at
Edinburgh for the adjustment of the national affairs.
Parliaments which met in January 1661, and May
1662, abolished presbytery, condemned the cove-
nants, restored prelacy, and, in consequence, incited
the Covenanters to arms, and threw the metropolis
and the country into confusion. Edinburgh was put
into a posture of defence ; the gates were barricaded ;
ingress or egress was prohibited without a passport;
the gentlemen of the neighbouring territory were
called in to afford their aid ; and the courts of law
placed its members under arms. In December 1666
ten of the Covenanters who had been captured in the
action of Rullion-green, were executed in Edinburgh.
During the whole period of Charles II. 's reign, from
the year 1663, the metropolis was the scene of the
trial, torture, and execution of vast numbers of Co-
venanters, many of them the best and brightest men
of the age. But the tyranny which was exercised,
the inquisitorial proceedings which were carried on,
the martyrdoms which were perpetrated, the demon-
strations uf a ferociously persecuting spirit which
were made, and the military manoeuvres of a standing-
army which were practised, did not for an hour awe
the inhabitants into submission, anil scarcely suc-
ceeded in even repressing them from attempting bold
though hopeless deeds of insurrection. At the exe-
cution of one Mitchell, who was concerned in an at-
tempt to assassinate the archbishop of St. Andrews
in the High-street, bands of women assailed the
scaffold, and made a strenuous endeavour to effect a
rescue. During 1679 the Duke of York — the future
James VII. — resided in Edinburgh, was magnificently
entertained by the magistrates, and introduced the
drama and other appliances of fashionable dissipation.
In 1680 the students of the university having, in con-
tempt, probably, of the Duke of York's religious
creed, resolved to burn the Pope in effigy, the ma-
gistrates interposed, and a tumult ensued. The
college was now, for a time, shut up ; and the stu-
dents exiled under a prohibition not to approach
within twelve miles of the town. In May 1682 the
Duke of York, after having utterly effeminated the
capital, and diffused an idle and ruinous taste for
show and extravagance, and lured the magistrates
into numerous acts of mean servility, took his depar-
ture for London.
Intelligence having arrived of the demise of Charles
II., in February, 1685, a stage was erected at the
cross, the militia drawn out, and proclamation,
amid pompous displays, made of the accession of
James VII. On the 20th June the Earl of Argyle
was brought into Edinburgh, paraded along the
streets, bound, uncovered, and preceded by the
hangman, and publicly executed with every accom-
paniment of ignominy. On the 1st of November,
a letter from the king, dispensing with the test, and
indicating favour to papists, was read at the privy-
council. Early in 1086 an order, dictated by the
king, was issued by the privy-council, forbidding the
booksellers of Edinburgh to print or sell any docu.
ment which reflected upon popery. A subsequent
order, authorizing the public and open celebration of
mass, occasioned a popular tumult. A journeyman
baker, who was concerned in the tumult, having
been ordered by the privy-council to be whipped
along the streets, a mob rose to his rescue, beat the
executioner, and continued all night in riotous pos-
session of the town. The king's guards and soldiers
from the Castle were brought out to the assistance
of the town-guard, and, firing upon the mob, killed
two men and a woman. Next day several of the rioters
were scourged amid a double file of musqueteers and
pikemen ; a drummer was shot for having uttered an
expression of strong antipathy to papists ; and a
fencing-master was hanged at the cross simply for
having expressed approbation of the recent tumults,
and drunk the toast of ' Confusion to Papists.' On the
29th of April, 1686, a parliament was convened at
Edinburgh, to which was read a letter from the king
proposing indulgence to the Roman Catholics ; which
included among its members the Lord-chancellor
Perth, who was a Papist, and had not taken the test
required by law; and which, though sufficiently pli-
ant, was not so servile as the king desired in adopt-
ing and enforcing his religious schemes. James, per-
secuting and spurning the sturdier members for their
votes, did by his own authority what the parliament
refused to do, — he took the Roman Catholics under
his protection, assigned them for the exercise of their
religion the chapel of Holyrood abbey, commanded
the magistrates to be conservators of their privileges,
and promoted as many of them as possible to places
in the privy-council, and the offices of government.
Watson, a popish printer, was appointed by the king
the printer to the royal family, and by the privy-
council the printer of all the prognostications in
Edinburgh ; and he carried through the press the
numerous books whose imprints indicate their hav-
ing been printed during the reign of James II. "in
Holyrood -house." Some minor particulars men-
tioned by Lord Fountainhall sufficiently indicate the
deep undercurrent in the direction of popery which
flowed beneath the surface of the king's public en-
actments. " On the 23d of November, 1686," say9
he, "the king's yacht arrived from London, atLeith,
with the altar, vestments, images, priests, and their
apurtenants, for the popish chapel in the Abbey of
Holyrood. On St. Andrew's day, the chapel was
consecrated, by holy water, and a sermon by Weder-
ington. On the 8th of February, 1688, Ogstoun,
the bookseller, was threatened, for selling Arch-
bishop Usher's sermons against the papists, and the
History of the French Persecutions; and all the
copies were taken from him ; though popish books
were printed and sold. On the 22d of March the
rules of the popish college, in the abbey of Holyrood,
were published, inviting children to be educated
gratis." But James VII. had now run his race of
religious folly, and was about to forfeit for himself
and his heirs the crowns which he had meretriciously
adorned with Roman gems. Throughout the months
of September and October, 1688, his officers of state
at Edinburgh acted as if they expected an invasion
from Holland. Throughout August and November
the court of session almost ceased to sit, considering
its functions to have ceased from the apparent disso-
lution of the government. On the 3d December the
students of the university, acting as the tools of more
influential parties, burned the Pope in effigy, and cla-
moured for a free parliament. At length the Chan-
cellor, the Earl of Perth, in whose person rested the
whole government of Scotland, indicated, by his
flight from Edinburgh to the Highlands, that the
metropolis and the country were freed from the
EDINBURGH.
477
caprices and the tyrannies of the dynasty of the
Stuarts.
No sooner was it known that William, Prince of
Orange, had landed, and that the regular troops were
withdrawn from Scotland, than Edinburgh was peo-
pled with crowds of Presbyterians pouring into it j
from every part of the country, and became a scene
of tumultuous confusion. A mob rose, drums were
beat through the streets, and a rush was made upon
every thing identified with popery. The populace
and the students ran to the abbey of Holyrood to
demolish the chapel; but were fired upon and re-
pulsed by the guard, 12 of their number being killed.
Wallace, the captain of the guard, refusing, when
called upon, to surrender, another rush was made
upon his party, and terminated in the slaughter of
some, and the capture of the rest. The mob now
pillaged the Abbey church and private chapel of Holy-
rood, pulled down the Jesuits' college, plundered and
sacked the religious houses and private dwellings of
Roman Catholics, burned at the cross the parapher-
nalia of the chapels for saying mass, and made a gen-
eral demolition of whatever was popish, or connected
with the ecclesiastical policy of the dethroned mon-
arch. Guards were now placed throughout the city
to prevent further tumults. Nor — owing to the dis-
cretion of the Duke of Gordon, the governor, who
yet refused to resign his command — did the Castle
lire upon the town during the season of violence.
On the 25th December the students paraded, with
the college-mace before them, and a musical band,
to the cross, and there again burnt the pope in effigy,
— the town-council, and the portion of the privy-
councillors who had not fled, looking on with ap-
probation. The magistrates, notwithstanding their
former sycophantish submission to James, were
among the first to offer their services to the Prince
of Orange ; and on the 28th December they addressed
him, congratulating him on his success, and assuring
him of their cheerful concurrence in preserving their
religion and their liberties. On the 14th of March,
1689, a convention of Estates was held at Edinburgh ;
and declared the forfeiture of James VII., offered the
crown of Scotland to William and Mary, abolished
prelacy, and re-established presbyterianism. On the
26th of March the magistrates of the city gave their
oath of fidelity to the Estates. On the 11th of April
William and Mary were proclaimed at the cross king
and queen. During the sitting of the convention
6,000 Covenanters from the west protected its mem-
bers, and preserved the peace of the city. Viscount
Dundee, better known as Graham of Claverhouse,
prowled about the city for a while with a small armed
body of about fifty horse ; and when about to retire
before the forces which were accumulating within its
walls, he climbed up the western side of the Castle-
rock to a postern now closed up, and held a confer-
ence with the Duke of Gordon, who still maintained
possession of the fort. An alarm now arose that the
Castle was about to bombard the Parliament-house,
and scatter the convention; but was magnanimously
quelled within doors by the president, the Duke of
Hamilton, who turned the lock, and declared that
members should not depart till there was actual dan-
ger. The adherents of the revolution were suddenly
summoned to the streets by beat of drum ; and, in
crowding together into masses, gave the city the ap-
pearance of hurried preparation to resist a menacing
attack. On the 13th of June, 1690, the last hopes
of the Jacobites having been slain at Killiecrankie,
the Castle was surrendered by the Duke of Gordon.
Several Jacobite plots were at various periods dis-
covered in the city, but were easily crushed. In
July 1690 the magistrates were empowered to raise
a revenue for maintaining the city-guard. An act
was soon after passed, though not without opposi-
tion, to enable the corporation to pay its debts.
During the whole of the reign of William the city
was disgraced with the practice of torture, in nearly
as cruel a degree as under the later Stuarts. In
1698 a statute was enacted by the Scottish parlia-
ment, against erecting houses in Edinburgh of a
greater height than five stories, or of less thickness
of wall in the ground story than three feet. On the
3d of February, 1700, a dreadful conflagration broke
out on the south side of Parliament-square, and con-
sumed the Treasury-room, the old Royal exchange,
and extensive piles of building on the south and east
sides of the square. Early in the same year the
whole of the printers of Edinburgh, and some other
parties, were severely prosecuted for the publication
of pamphlets reflecting on the government. As the
year 1700 advanced, the massacre ofGlenco, the dis-
regard of the Scottish privileges at the treaty of
Ryswick, and particularly the opposition of the king
to the recently formed company for trading to Africa
and Indies, and the failure of the settlement which
this company attempted to establish on the isthmus
of Darien, exacerbated the people of Edinburgh and
provoked them to open violence. On the arrival of
news which were temporarily favourable respecting
the Darien settlement, a mob obliged most of the in-
habitants to illuminate, committed outrages on the
houses which were not lit up in obedience to their
dictation, secured the avenues to the city, and burned
the doors of the Tolbooth, and set at liberty the
victims of prosecution for libel upon government.
When news shortly after arrived that the settlement
was destroyed, ami the hopes and capital of the trad-
ing company demolished, the mob were so furious
that the officers of state and the royal commissioner
to parliament fled from the city to escape becoming
victims to the popular indignation.
Intelligence having arrived in March, 1702, of the
demise of William, Queen Anne was proclaimed at
the cross with the usual ceremonies. In March,
1704, a large quantity of popish paraphernalia, con-
sisting of sacerdotal habiliments, communion-table
linen, pictures, chalices, crucifixes, whipping-cords,
rosaries, consecrated stones, relics, remissions and
indulgences, were, by order of the privy-council,
carried to the cross, and there burned or otherwise
destroyed. In March, 1705, a vessel belonging to
the English East India company having put into the
Forth, the crew were suspected of piracy, aggravated
by murder, upon the crew of a Scottish vessel in the
East Indies ; and — more in retaliation of the uncom-
pensated seizure in the Thames of a vessel belonging
to the Scottish African company, than in due appre-
ciation of their imputed conduct — they were tried in
Edinburgh, and condemned. The evidence against
them appearing slender, intercessions were made for
the royal mercy on their behalf. But the populace
were deeply enraged, and, on the day appointed for
the execution, congregated in vast numbers round
the Parliament-house, where the privy-council and
the magistrates were assembled in deliberation whe-
ther and how the victims should escape. The ma-
gistrates, aware of the revengeful fury of the mob,
assured them that three of the criminals were ordered
for execution. But the Lord-chancellor, emerging
from the privy-council to his coach, some person
shouted that the magistrates had cheated them, and
that the criminals had been reprieved. The mob
now stopped the chancellor's coach at the Tron-
church, broke its glasses, insulted and ill-treated
the chancellor, and could eventually be appeased
only by the criminals being brought out tor exe-
cution.
In 1706, when the measure of the national union
478
EDINBURGH.
came before the Scottish parliament, the inhabitants
of Edinburgh rose in insurrection against the consti-
tuted authorities. Even while it was known to
them only in limine, they were under str^on^r irrita-
tion ; but when it became known in its details, they
pressed in vast crowds toward the Parliament-house,
and hooted and insulted every member of parliament
who was believed to favour it. On the 23d of Oc-
tober they attacked the house of Sir Patrick John-
ston, their late provost, who was a strenuous advo-
cate for the Union, and compelled him to seek
refuge in a precipitate flight. Increasing in numbers
and in fury, the mob scoured the streets, became
absolute masters of the city, and seemed as if pro-
ceeding to shut up the gates. The commissioner
ordered a party of soldiers to take possession of the
Netherbow, posted, with the consent of the magis-
trates, a battalion of foot-guards in Parliament-
square and other suitable localities, and speedily
succeeded in quelling the riot, and restoring order.
But so deep and general was the popular rage, and
so strong the panic it had excited, that nothing less
than the whole army, encamped in the vicinity, was
deemed a force sufficient to protect the parliament
and the city. Three regiments of foot were con-
stantly on duty in the town, — a battalion of guards
protected the Abbey,— and the horse- guards attended
the commissioner. Thus strongly protected, yet not
undisturbed by popular hootings and insults, the
parliament continued its deliberations on the Union,
and at length, on the 16th of January, 1707, ratified
the articles. But the members encountered severe
difficulties, and submitted to remarkable privations,
and adopted devices not a little curious, in order to
authenticate by their signatures the popularly de-
tested contract, first retiring in small numbers to a
summer-house behind the Earl of Moray's house in
the Canongate ; next, when discovered and scared
away by the mob, taking refuge, under the darkness
of night, in an obscure cellar in the High-street ; and
then, before they could be discovered by persons early
a-foot in the morning, taking a precipitate leave of
the city, and starting off for London.
From the consummation of the Union on the 1st
of May, 1707, Edinburgh, during half-a-century, lay
prostrate and stunned under the blow which had
been inflicted on her importance, stripped off the
jewels and ornamented raimentings of her once
courtly character, and pouring on the dust, unla-
inented by her nobles, the crimson hearts'-blood of
her metropolitan pride. The city — as to nearly
every thing which had rendered it opulent and illus-
trious— was utterly forsaken, and appeared to have
lost all its attractions ; and a thick gloom, such as
had never before darkened its sky, hung over the
dwellings and the hearts of its citizens. But event-
ually the Union, the occasion of temporary and af-
flicting disasters, worked indirectly out for it an
amount and a brilliance of well-being which have,
in some respects, made it the envy and the wonder
of every other city in the world. From the date of
the Union down to the present day, only five events
in its history are of sufficient importance, or so de-
tached from the history of particular institutions,
and unanticipated in the early portions of this ar-
ticle, as to require notice. These events are the re-
bellion of 1715, the Porteous mob, the rebellion of
] 745, some tumults before and after the period of
the French Revolution, and the visit of George IV.
The rebellion of 1715 commenced with an unsuc-
cessful attempt to capture Edinburgh castle by sur-
prise. Some well-concerted measures were arranged ;
but they were discovered before the appointed hour
of action, and easily disconcerted. The Bank of
Scotland was immediately subjected to an extraor-
dinary demand upon its specie, and compelled, for a
short time, to suspend payment. Fifteen hundred
insurgents passed the Forth from Fife, and marched
upon Edinburgh ; but they found it so well-prepared
by the exertions of the magistrates in fortifying it,
and the presence of a military force under the Duke
of Argyle, to give them a warm reception, that they
declined to attack it, and filed off, first to nestle in
the decayed fort of Leith, and next to seek death
and discomfiture in the south. The arrival, imme-
diately afterwards, of 6,000 Dutch troops to aid the
king's measures, prevented Edinburgh from being
the scene of any further event during the brief re-
maining period of the rebellion.
In 1736 occurred the strange tumult called the
Porteous mob, famous in the city's annals, and gra-
phically described in the tale of the Heart of Mid-
Lothian. Two smugglers — who had violated rev-
enue laws recently extended from England to Scot-
land, and who attracted the sympathy rather than
the reprehension of the populace — were tried, con-
victed, and condemned to death. On a Sabbath
while at church, between two guard soldiers, one of
them suddenly started up, and sprung upon the
soldier at the side. The other, whose name was
Wilson, now seized both the soldiers, and held them
fast till his companion escaped ; and he, in conse-
quence, won no stinted meed of praise from the
general population of the city. On the 14th of
April, when Wilson was led out to execution in the
Grassmarket, the mob pelted the executioner and
the city-guard. John Porteous, the captain of the
guard, enraged at the attack, ordered his men to tire.
The guard, in the first instance, fired over the heads
of the mob ; but, enjoined by their angry captain,
fired next among them, killing six persons, and dan-
gerously wounding eleven. Porteous was tried for
murder and condemned ; but was reprieved by the
Queen-regent Caroline. An opinion having gained
general credit among the excited and exacerbated
populace that Porteous would get a second reprieve,
and even that, on the day named for his execution,
he would be adroitly transferred for safety to the
Castle, a formidable conspiracy was formed with pro-
found secrecy, and executed with singular prompti-
tude. On the night preceding the day named for his
execution, a mob, disguised in dress, broke into the
jail, set at liberty all the prisoners except Porteous,
drove off some gentlemen who attempted to lure
them from violence, carried Porteous to the Grass-
market, suspended him on a dyer's pole till life had
fled, and then dispersed with the utmost quietness and
order. Great indignation was excited at court, and
Edinburgh was menaced with a fearful retaliation.
The lord-provost was taken into custody, and not
admitted to bail till after three weeks of confine-
ment; and he was commanded, along with the bailies
and three lords of justiciary, to appear before the
House of Lords. A bill passed the upper house to
unfrock the provostry, to confine the provost in
close custody for a year, to abolish the city-guard,
and to destroy the" city-gates ; but in the lower
house this severe bill was transmuted into an order
upon the city to pay the widow of Porteous i'200
a-year. Though a reward of £200 was offered for
the discovery of each person who had acted in the
conspiracy, and though it was accompanied with a
proffered pardon to any accomplice who should turn
informer, not one individual concerned in the affair
was ever brought to justice, or even traced.
At the breaking out of the rebellion in 1745, the
city-guard was augmented to 126 men, the trained
bands were ordered to be in readiness, 1,000 men
were raised by subscription, and placed under the
direction of the town-council, a part of the king's
EDINBURGH.
479
forces were brought into the vicinity, the walls were
repaired, ditches were thrown up, inquisition was
made respecting strangers lodging in the city, the
money of the banks and other public offices was
removed to the Castle, and all preparatory measures
were adopted which might contribute to the defence
or safety of the metropolis. On the 13th of Septem-
ber the Pretender crossed the Forth with 2,000 men,
some miles west of Stirling; and on the 15th he had
reached Linlithgow, and driven Gardiner's dragoons
before him in retreat. The city's regiment and
town-guard, marching out to assist the king's forces,
in making a stand a mile to the westward of Edin-
burgh, saw the troops whom they went to support
in full retreat, and fell back upon the city only to
witness universal consternation among its inhabitants.
While negotiations were attempted with the rebel
camp for the safety of the city, 800 Highlanders,
under Cameron of Lochiel, took advantage, on the
afternoon of the 17th September, of the opening of
the Netherbow for the admission of a carriage be-
longing to the negotiators, to rush quietly into the
town, overpower the guard, and take immediate and
entire possession of the streets. On the same day
the Chevalier led his little army into the King's park,
fixed his camp at Duddingstone, entered Holyrood-
house, commanded the magistrates, on pain of military
execution, to furnish stores which cost 2s. 6d. per
pound on the real rental of the inhabitants, ordered the
citizens to give up their arms, proclaimed James VIII.
of Scotland at the cross, and at night held a splendid
ball in the palace. On the 18th Charles was joined by
Lord Nairne, with 1,000 men from the North. On
the 20th he marched out to the field of Prestonpans ;
and on the 21st won his easy victory, [see Preston-
pans,] and returned in triumph to Edinburgh. On
the 25th the Castle, alarmed by some noise among
the rooks, fired upon the Highland guard at the
West port. Charles now cut off communication
between it and the city ; and the Castle being scan-
tily supplied with provisions, the governor threat-
ened a cannonading if the blockade should not be
removed. A severe firing was now commenced
upon the city, and filled all quarters with terror and
confusion, demolished and burned a number of
houses, and killed and wounded many of the inhabi-
tants as well as of the Highland soldiers. At the
end of two days, Charles removed the blockade, and
restored quiet; and on the 31st of October, he, at
the head of his army, left Edinburgh for England.
After the final defeat of Charles, 14 standards taken
at Culloden were ignominiously burned at the cross
of Edinburgh ; and the Duke of Cumberland visited
the city in his way to the South, and occupied apart-
ments in Holyrood-house. Archibald Stewart, Esq.,
who filled the office of lord-provost when the rebels
entered the metropolis, was brought before the jus-
ticiary-court, for malversation favourable to the
Jacobites ; but after a trial of six days, as remark-
able for its interesting character as "for its length,
was acquitted.
In 1778 the Earl of Seaforth's Highland regiment,
then quartered in the Castle, being required to em-
bark for India, broke into mutiny, and encamped on
Arthur's -seat; but were brought to allegiance
through the interposition of Lords Dunmore and
Maedonald. In 1779, a mob — exasperated by mea-
sures in progress to repeal the penal laws against
Roman Catholics — burnt one popish chapel, plun-
dered another, and destroyed considerable property
belonging to Romish priests and people, and even
to some Protestant advocates of their civil rights.
Military assistance was called in, and quelled the
disturbance without loss of life or recourse to vio-
lence ; but the city was afterwards obliged to com-
pensate damages to the amount of £ 1,500. When
the French revolution broke out, several citizens of
Edinburgh were brought to trial for treason and
sedition, and visited with rigorous punishment.
During the atrocities of the French reign of terror,
the city made zealous demonstrations of loyalty.
After the breach of the peace of Amiens, four vo-
lunteer regiments were raised in the city, constitut-
ing a force of between 3,000 and 4,000 men. On
the night of the 31st December, 1811, a body of
youths, united by previous conspiracy, and armed
with bludgeons, scoured the streets, indiscriminately
plundered persons in their way, drove the police
headlong before them, killed one person and mor-
tally wounded several others, and, during a consider-
able part of the night, maintained mastery over the
town. Three of the youthful rioters were after-
wards brought to trial, and publicly executed in the
High-street. Some affecting incidents connected
with their execution, and especially the horrors of
the scene which caused it, excited salutary, general,
and permanent feelings, both of aversion to the
bacchanalian festival of celebrating the transition
from an old to a new year, and of concern for the
education and moral training of the young.
George IV. s visit to Edinburgh in 1822, is so
well yet succinctly narrated in a sketch by James
Browne, Esq., attached to W. H. Lizars' ' Picturesque
Views of Edinburgh,' that, after looking at volumin-
ous materials before us, we prefer the adoption of it
to any attempt at a compilation of our own. " His
Majesty's gracious intention to visit Scotland was
communicated officially to the lord-provost of Edin-
burgh on the 17th of July; and it was further inti-
mated that he might be expected to reach the capital
about the middle of August; that is, immediately
after the rising of parliament. The time for making
the necessary preparations for his Majesty's reception
was therefore short ; but the proper authorities ex-
erted themselves with so much zeal, that wonders
were performed. The apartments in Holyrood-house
were cleaned, repaired, and fitted up with suitable
elegance; a new approach was formed from the south
side of the Calton-hill to the front of the palace ;
the road through the King's park was opened for the
convenience of his Majesty travelling to and from
Dalkeith-house, where it was intended he should
reside ; the Weigh-house was removed to clear the
passage to the Castle ; a barrier, like the gates of a
city, was constructed in Leith-walk, nearly opposite
Picardy- place; and triumphal arches were erected at
Leith, where it was presumed his Majesty would
land, but in case that should not be found expedient,
a communication was opened with Trinity chain-
pier. At the same time an encampment was formed
on Salisbury-crags and the Calton-hill, where guns
were stationed, and poles erected for displaying the
royal standard; and, in a word, every effort was used
to receive his Majesty with becoming pomp and splen-
dour. Meanwhile, crowds of people from all parts
of the country, and equipages of every description,
from the superb fashionable chariot-and-four to the
humble Glasgow noddy, poured in daily ; all was
bnstle, anxiety and expectation, the novelty of the
approaching spectacle heightening the interest with
which it was anticipated, and raising to the highest
pitch of excitement the loyal feelings which seemed
to animate every bosom. The session of parliament
having been closed by his Majesty in person on the
6th of August, he embarked at Greenwich for Scot-
land on the 10th. On the 14th the royal squadron
arrived in Leith roads ; but the state of the weather
being unfavourable, it was announced that the land-
ing would be deferred till the morrow. On the 15th,
which proved a remarkably fine day, all was bustle
480
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
and preparation. The whole of Leith-walk was
lined with scaffolding on each side ; every corner
was crowded with well-dressed people ; and the
windows in every street through which the proces-
sion was to pass, exhibited clusters of heads densely
packed together. Exactly at noon a gun from the
royal yacht announced that his Majesty had em-
harked ; and soon after, the royal barge entered the
harbour amidst the thunder of artillery, and the still
more gratifying peals of enthusiastic acclamations,
sent forth by the immense multitude who had as-
sembled to witness this magnificent spectacle. At
the landing-place, which was a platform covered with
scarlet-cloth, his Majesty was received by the Duke
of Dorset, the Marquis of Winchester, the Earl of
Cathcart, the Earl of Fife, Sir William Elliot, Sir
Thomas Bradford, the judges of the supreme courts,
and the magistrates of Leith, all of whom he shook
cordially by the hand. His Majesty then proceeded
to his carriage, which was opened at the top ; and
after being seated with the Duke of Dorset and Mar-
quis of Winchester, it drove off at a slow pace,
guarded by the company of royal archers, under the
command of the Earl of Elgin, and a detachment of
the Scots Greys. The train of the procession, which
moved by Bernard-street, and Constitution-street,
along Leith-walk, was of a more splendid kind than
had ever been seen in Scotland, and consisted of all
that rank and pomp could contribute to grace the
ceremonial. The head of the cavalcade reached the
barriers of Edinburgh about one o'clock, when the
lord-provost, accompanied by the magistrates, pre-
sented his Majesty with the silver-keys of the city,
which his Majesty immediately returned with a short
and courteous speech. The procession then moved
forward by York-place, and St. Andrew's-square to
Prince's-street, and turning to the eastward, pro-
ceeded to the Regent-bridge, Waterloo-place. On
entering Prince's-street, where, on the one hand, the
picturesque irregularity ofthe Old town, surmounted
by its venerable and majestic Acropolis, and, on the
other, the elegance and splendour of the New town,
with the Calton-hill in front, terraced with human
beings, burst upon the view, his Majesty was
charmed with the scene, then enlivened by every
accompaniment that could heighten the feeling of
admiration, and waving his hat, exclaimed, ' How
superb !' About two o'clock his Majesty reached
the palace of Holyrood-house, and his arrival was
announced by salutes fired from the Castle and from
the guns placed on the Calton-hill and Salisbury-
crags. After receiving the congratulations of the
magistrates and other authorities, his Majesty set
out in his private carriage for Dalkeith-house. Fire-
works were exhibited in the evening, while a beacon
blazed on the summit of Arthur's-seat; and the night
following there was a general illumination. On the
17th his Majesty held a levee in Holyrood-house,
which was most numerously and splendidly attended;
on the 19th he received the addresses of the Com-
mission of the General Assembly of the Church of
Scotland, of the four universities and of other public
bodies ; and on the 20th he held a drawing-room,
which was graced by about 500 ladies, the most dis-
tinguished for rank, beauty, and fashion, which Scot-
land could boast of. On the 22d, his Majesty went
in procession from Holyrood-house to the Castle,
which would have proved a gorgeous pageant had
not the effect of the spectacle been impaired by
almost incessant rain. On the following day he
reviewed a body of about 3,000 cavalry, chiefly
yeomanry, on Portobello sands ; and the same even-
ing attended a splendid ball given in honour of the
royal visit by the peers of Scotland. On the 24th a
splendid banquet was given to his Majesty in the
great hall of the Parliament-house by the lord-pro-
vost, magistrates, and town-council, on which occa-
sion his Majesty honoured the city by creating the
lord-provost a baronet; and the following day, being
Sunday, he attended divine service in the High
church, — Dr. Lamont, moderator of the General
Assembly, officiating on the occasion. A ball given
by the Caledonian Hunt was attended by his Majesty
on the 26th ; and on the 27th he made his last ap-
pearance before his Scottish subjects in a visit to the
theatre, where, with his accustomed good taste, he
had commanded the national play of ' Rob Roy ' to
be performed, and where, both at his entrance and
departure, he was hailed with long-continued and
enthusiastic acclamations from all parts of the house.
On the 29th his Majesty, after partaking of a splen-
did repast prepared at Hopetoun-house, embarked on
board the royal yacht at Port Edgar, near Queens-
ferry, amidst the cheers and cordial adieus of a vast
body of spectators, assembled from all parts of the
adjacent country."
Subsequent noticeable events in the history of
Edinburgh have chiefly been connected with particu-
lar institutions, or the architectural extension of the
city, or have otherwise been of such a nature as to
have been incidentally noticed in the earlier portions
of this article.
EDINBURGHSHIRE, or Mid-Lothian, si-
tuated in the eastern part of the southern division of
Scotland, has a somewhat serrated outline, yet has-
proximately the figure of a half-moon, whose body
rests on the frith of Forth, and whose horns stretch
away south-east, and to the north of west. On the
north it is hounded by the frith of Forth ; on the
east by Haddingtonshire, Berwickshire, and Rox-
burghshire ; on the south by Selkirkshire, Peebles-
shire, and Lanarkshire ; and on the north-west by
Linlithgowshire. It lies between 55° 39' 30" and
55° 59v 20" north latitude ; and between 2° 52'
and 3° 45' 10" longitude west -from Greenwich;
and measures in extreme length from east to west
38 miles, in average breadth from north to south 15
miles, and in superficial area 358 square miles, or
229,120 English acres. These are the measure-
ments of the recondite and generally accurate author
of 'Caledonia;' and they are rather authenticated
than invalidated by those of the ' Agricultural Sur-
vey of Mid-Lothian,' which make the superficial
area 1 ,288 English acres less. The line of the county
along the Forth, from west to east, is about 12
miles ; along the eastern boundary, from north to
south, about 23 miles ; along the southern boundary,
from east to west, about 36 miles ;. and along the
boundary of Linlithgowshire, or the course, with one
brief exception, of Breich water and Almond water,
from south-west to north-east, about 19 miles.
Edinburghshire may, in the most general point of
view, be considered as consisting of an inclined plane
or hanging level, descending northward or eastward
of north toward the frith of Forth ; and a section,
11 miles in length, of upland ploughed by streams,
and inclining southward at its south-eastern horn.. —
The most prominent hills are the Pentlands, which
come in upon the county in continuous and parallel
ranges from Peebles-shire, and sweep northward
nearly along its middle, over a distance of 12 miles,
till they terminate in bold outlines 6 miles from the
sea, or 4 from the capital. East-Cairn-hill, near the
middle of a continuous group of eminences not greatly
inferior to it in elevation, rises 1,802 feet above the
level of the sea at Leith; see article Pentlands.
Next to the Pentlands, the Moorfoot hills, which are
a continuation of the Lammermoor hills, are the most
conspicuous ranges. From Coatlaw, on the west side
of Moorfoot water, the most northerly one of two
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
481
ranges, coming in from Peebles-shire, stretches about
10 miles east-north-east, and terminates in Cowberry
hill, near the source of Gala water. This range cuts
off the parishes of Heriot and Stow from the main
body of the county, and forms a line between waters
which flow northward, and the sources of the south-
ward streams which are carried off toward the Tweed.
The other range of the Moorfoot hills also branches
off from Coatlaw on the western point, and extends,
with a wider spread than the former, about 10 miles,
in a south-east direction, over the country which is
drained by the Heriot and the Luggate waters. The
two Moorfoot ranges may, as to the geographical
lines which they form, be regarded as two sides of a
triangle which has Gala water on the east as its base.
The area of this triangle, and the stripe along the
Gala water, are irregularly studded by hills of the
transition series, generally round, sometimes insu-
lated, and nowhere linked into a continuous range
Along the extensive inclined plane which stretches
between the Pentland and the Moorfoot ranges and
the sea, are several brief hilly chains, or remarkable
congeries of elevations. The most singular, romantic,
and curiously agglomerated are those which partly en-
viron and partly bear aloft the capital, and which were
briefly described in the articles, Arthur's Seat, Cal-
ton, and Edinburgh. Between the parishes of Cran-
ston and Crichton on the east, and the parishes of
Dalkeith and Cockpen on the west, a continued ridge
of hill stretches nearly 6 miles from north to south ;
but, though rising in various places from 550 to 680
feet above the level of the sea, does not much ob-
struct a road which crosses its centre from Edinburgh
to Coldstream. Through the parish of Corstorphine
run the hills of the same name, in a curving direction
from north-west to south-east, over a distance of 2
miles ; but, rising only 474 feet above the level of
the sea, they derive their conspicuousness of appear-
ance, partly from some remarkable indentations in
their summits, and chiefly from their being sur-
rounded with a rich extensive plain. In Ratho par-
ish a small congeries of hills, called the Plat hills,
rising 600 feet above the level of the sea, runs about
1£ mile from north to south. In the southern ex-
tremity of the same parish, at the head-springs of the
Gogar burn, are three trap hills in a line, called Dal-
mahoy-crags, two of which rise respectively 660
and 680 feet above the level of the sea. Other hills
in the county are either rising grounds of inferior
note, or spurs of the Pentland range.
The northern and western sections of the county
are in general arable, fertile, and variegated only to
an agreeable and highly beautiful degree with rising
grounds; and the southern and south-eastern sec-
tions, especially the latter, are, to a large extent,
pastoral. About one-third of the whole county may
be estimated as the proportion of hill or grounds in-
accessible to the plough. On the great inclined
plane which forms the northern division, is a tract
of upwards of 50,000 Scotch acres of arable and fer-
tile lands, stretching about 15 or 16 miles from east
to west, and 6 or 8 from north to south. The hills
and rising grounds which diversify this tract, while
they greatly embellish the landscape, abound in tine
pasture, and are nearly equal in territorial value to
the level grounds. Farther south, and nearer the
mountain-ranges, is another tract of plain country,
situated from 600 to 900 feet above the level of the
sea, with a northern exposure, having in general a
good soil, not unfriendly to vegetation, abounding
in warm and wealthy spots which carry luxuriance
up to the very base and along the lower face of the
mountains, and containing stretches of moorland and
moss which, in many instances, have accepted opu-
lence and adornment from the hand of culture In-
terspersed among the mountains, especially among
the Moorfoot ranges, are several dales or valleys,
consisting of good arable land. The pasture in the
hilly and unploughable districts is in general sweet
and healthy, and enriches the country with the breed
of sheep which it supports. The soil of the county
is much diversified. Clay, sand, loam, and gravel,
are all, in many cases, to be seen on the same farm,
and frequently in the same field, with many variations
of quality ; and they are so blended, and compete so
briskly for pre-eminence, that one cannot easily de-
termine which predominates.
" Almost the whole of the county may be seen at
once from the summit of Allermore, the most ele-
vated of the Pentland hills to the north. Its waters
may be traced by the fringe of wood with %vhich their
banks are generally ornamented. The numberless
villas in the vicinity of Edinburgh, and gentlemen's
seats, all over the county, are seen beautiful and
distinct, each in the midst of its own plantations.
These add still more to the embellishment of the
scene from the manner in which they are disposed ;
not in extended and thick plantations, which turn a
country into a forest, and throw a gloom upon the
prospect, but in clear and diversified lines, in clumps
and hedge-rows, or waving in clouds on the brows
of hills and elevated situations, useful as well as or-
namental; protecting, not injuring, cultivation. In
fact, Mid-Lothian, when viewed on a fine summer-
day from almost any of its hills, displays a prospect
of as many natural beauties, without being deficient
in those embellishments which arise from industry
and cultivation, as perhaps can be met with in any
tract of the same extent in Great Britain. The ex-
panse of the Forth, which forms the northern boun-
dary, adds highly to the natural beauty of the scene;
and the capital, situated upon an eminence adjoining
to an extensive plain, rises proudly to the view, and
gives a dignity to the whole. Descending from the
hills to the low country, the surface, which had the
appearance of an uniform plain, undergoes a remark-
able change to the eye. The fields are laid out in
various directions according to the natural figure of
the ground, which is unequal, irregular, and inclined
to every point of the compass. The most part,
however, of the land lies upon a gentle slope, either
to the north or the south, in banks which are ex-
tended from west to east all over the county. This
inequality in the surface eontributesi much to the
ornament of the country, by the agreeable relief
which the eye ever meets with in the change of ob-
jects ; while the universal declivity, which prevails
more or less in every field, is favourable to the cul-
ture of the lands, by allowing a ready descent to the
water which falls from the heavens." [' Agricultural
Survey of Mid-Lothian.' Edin. 1792. 8vo, pp. 23,24.]
Edinburghshire is well- watered ; though, from its
peculiar configuration, it is washed by no stream of
sufficient length or volume to be called a river. All
the numerous streams, which touch or intersect it,
are designated either Burns or Waters. But its de-
ficiency as to natural inland navigation is abundantly
compensated by the sweep along its northern boun-
dary of the broad navigable sea- waters of the Forth.
The frith where it rolls past the county is from 7 to
12 miles broad, and swarms with white fish and her-
rings, and profusely scatters on the beach some of
the best kinds of shell-fish. But for many ages it
has been making encroachments on the land ; and,
in consequence, it stretches out in long shallows
from the shore, and offers greatly less and fewer fa-
cilities for navigation than would seem to be pro-
mised by the expanse of its waters, and the decllna.
tion of its coast. Almond water, the most westerly
stream of the county, comes down upon it at the
2 H
482
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
northern angle of the parish of West-Calder from
Linlithgowshire, intersects a wing of the parish of
Mid-Calder, and, thence to the sea, forms the north-
western boundary-line. The water of Leith rises
in the south-eastern extremity of the parish of Mid-
Calder, and flows generally in a deep channel be-
tween wooded banks, over a distance of 20 miles to
the sea at Leith. The Esk — the largest stream in
the county — is composed of two main branches which
unite below Dalkeith, and fall into the sea at Mus-
selburgh ; and, by its head- waters and its numerous
tributaries, it drains the whole country lying between
the Pentland and the Moorfoot ranges of mountain.
The Tyne rises near the north-east termination of
the Moorfoot hills, and after flowing 7 miles north-
ward in the county, debouches to the east, and passes
away into East Lothian. The Gala rises in the
northern limit of the Moorfoot hills, and flows 10
miles southward through the parishes of Heriot and
Stow, receiving from the west the waters of the
Heriot and the Luggate, and leaves Edinburghshire
at its south-eastern angle. All these streams form
the subject of separate articles in the present work.
— The lakes are so inconsiderable as to be fit objects
of notice only in the articles on the parishes.
A continuous bed of coal, nearly 15 miles in length,
and from 7 to 8 in breadth, extends across the county
from Carlops to Musselburgh, in a northerly direc-
tion, stretching beneath the vale of the North Esk.
Coal is worked, however, chiefly in the lower part
of the vale, and there occurs in seams from 20 to 25
in number, partly on edge and partly flat, and from
2 to 15 feet in thickness. In one estate, in the par-
ish of Lasswade, coal appears to have been worked
as far back as the beginning of the 17th century.
The quantity annually disembowelled from the earth
during many years, was so considerable as to yield a
rental for the pits of about ;£12,000; and has been
materially increased since the construction of the
Edinburgh and Dalkeith railway. But owing to the
prevalence of ' dikes,' the great expense of working
the mines, and the spirited competition of the Fife
and Western coal-districts, it has not yielded large
remuneration to proprietors. In the rising ground
south of Newbottle, on the estate of the Marquis of
Lothian, fine parrot-coal occurs in abundance, and is
thence carried to Edinburgh for the manufacture of
coal-gas Limestone abounds in the coal-district,
and also between that district and the hills by Mid-
dleton, Criehton-Dean and Fala, as well as in the
south-west angle of the county, in the parish of East
Calder. The most remarkable and abundant strata
are near Gilmerton, in the parish of Libberton. One
mine — which has been abandoned from time im-
memorial, and which evinces that limestone was first
worked in localities where it looked out from the
surface — " presents the appearance of an immense
series of arcades upon a considerable declivity, reach-
ing from the surface to a most profound depth under
the incumbent fields, and forming quite a local won-
der."— Sandstone of excellent quality and various
kinds is abundant. One principal quarry is at Craig-
leith, in the parish of St. Cuthbert's, and near the
metropolis; and has produced the immense quantity
of beautifully white and very durable stone, of which
the greater part of the New Town of Edinburgh is
built. The six columns in front of the college, each
consisting of one stone 23 feet by 3, and supposed to
be superior to any similar pillars in Britain, are from
this quarry. Another principal quarry is at Hales,
in the parish of Colinton, about 4 miles west of
Edinburgh, and yields a slaty stone which is easily
worked, and of great value for pavement. Several
ether quarries of inferior note occur in various locali-
ties. Granite and whinstone are found in every par-
ish of the county, and have been not only used for
local buildings, and for paving the streets of Edin-
burgh, but transported in considerable quantity to
London. Millstones, petrifactions, and beautiful
specimens of marble, are produced in the parish of
Penicuick. Lead was, at a former date, found on
the south side of the Pentlands, at the head of the
North Esk. Copper is believed vo exist in several
parishes ; but, though tried for a time in Currie, is
not sufficiently abundant to be remuneratingly work-
ed. Iron is much more frequent, particularly in the
vicinity of coal. Gems are now very rarely met
with, but anciently were not altogether scarce. The
Arthur-seat pebble, a species of jasper, was, at no
remote date, occasionally seen Mineral waters,
chalybeate and sulphureous, spring in two localities
near Edinburgh, — in Cramond, Mid-Calder, and Peni-
cuick, and in various other districts.
However early, during rude and tumultuous ages,
the plough may have been introduced to Mid-Lothi-
an, agriculture appears to have there made some
progress before the close of the 11th century. At
that epoch, and for ages afterwards, the county was
for the most part covered with forests. But while
the feeding of flocks among the woods and in vast
pastures on the Gala water was pursued by the opu-
lent, husbandry was practised by the poor. David
I. raised agriculture in the popular estimation, and
threw around it the dignity and eclat of royal adop-
tion ; becoming himself the greatest farmer in Mid-
Lothian, and maintaining many agricultural estab-
lishments. David I. also showed his people an
example of horticulture ; and speaks, in his charter
of Holyrood, of his garden under the castle. Hor-
ticulture was generally practised in Scotland during
the Scoto-Saxon period ; and commanded much at-
tention, in the instance of the royal gardens of
Edinburgh, during the disastrous reign of David II.
But the prevalence of groves and shrubberies long
obstructed, in every shape, the cultivation of the
soil. Edward III. did much to abridge the domina-
tion of the forests ; yet even he left large clusters of
native oak to spread their dark wings over the rich
plains, and send down their hungry roots into the
productive soil, so late as the 16th century. While
woods lifted their umbrageous covering over the
country, and warriors and freebooters prowled be-
neath them to trample upon luxuriance, and break
through the fences reared by the hand of cultivation,
agriculture could not make material progress. Mills,
kilns, and breweries, indeed, were not few in num-
ber, and afforded no unambiguous intimation that the
farmer was quietly and unostentatiously resisting the
soldier, as well as subduing the asperities of the
soil. Yet the lower orders of the inhabitants — those
chiefly who practised agriculture — were the slaves
rather than the tenants of the land-owners, and la-
boured unwillingly for others, rather than willingly
for themselves. The tillers of the ground — espe-
cially when coin was scarce, and the circulation of it
nearly unknown — could not, in consequence, possess
sufficient capital to enable them advantageously for
either their families or the population around them,
to follow the plough. The tenant, therefore, rented
from the landlord — who copied the example of the
freeholders of England— not only the land but the
materials with which it was stocked; and was bound
to deliver up all he possessed whenever he vacated
his farm. The strange tenure by which the culti-
vator of the soil thus held the lands on which he
expended his labour, was called steelbow, and long
and almost hopelessly obstructed the progress, or
rather the beginning of improvement. A patient,
persevering, and assiduous course of quiet industry,
a course possessing these properties in a degree
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
4855
inconceivable by an age of stir and speculation, and
rapid evolutions, — was indispensable in combination
with frugal economy to carry up the value of agri-
cultural capital from the cypher of the steelbow age,
to the flourishing and opulent period of identity of
farmership with independence, luxury, and social
greatness. The era of improvement, to an extent
fully visible, was so low as about the end of the first
quarter of the 18th century. At that period a so-
ciety of Improvers formed in Edinburgh, and now,
according to the usual ingratitude of the world, al-
most entirely forgotten, issued agricultural instruc-
tions, and illustrated them by example. Other par-
ties, near and after the same date, followed in their
wake. In particular, Sir James Macgill, and, 60
years later, Sir John Dick of Prestonfield in Dud-
dingston, carted away manure from Edinburgh, and
demonstrated how, by artificial appliances, a barren
soil maybe converted into the seat of luxuriance and
agricultural wealth and beauty. At later dates,
down toward the close of the 18th century, Sir
John Dalrymple of Cousland, Hamilton of Fala,
Thomas Hope of Rankeilor, and the Duke of Buc-
cleuch, aided or directed by Dr. Carlyle of Inveresk,
and Dr. Irvine of Dalkeith, achieved great improve-
ments in the introduction of grasses and succulents,
of hedges and ditches, and of economical ploughs,
and well-adapted implements of husbandry. The
present state of agriculture in the county is as high
and prosperous as modern science and capital can
well desiderate. A territory around the metropolis
is extensively laid out in nurseries and garden-
grounds, and is maintained or forced in its luxuri-
ance by the importation of manure from the city. A
district beyond is distributed chiefly into potato
fields, enriched and supported by the same manurial
appliance ; and this district, patched with spots of
the former territory, has been extended away west-
ward, in consequence of the facilities for conveying
manure which have been afforded by the opening and
traffic of the Union canal. The ulterior and larger
parts of the arable division of the county are laid
for crops of wheat, barley, oats, pease, beans, pota-
toes, summer tares, rye- grass, and clover. In the
moorlands, though a few miles of ascent from the
plain reveals a difference of almost as many weeks
in the date of harvest, cultivation rapidly extends,
striding along heath and bog, and even making a
considerable ascent up the acclivities of the hills.
Well - constructed fences, sheltering plantations,
draining, manuring, and all the arts of improve-
ment, are contributing their quota to enhance the
opulence of wealthy soils, and confer value and or-
nament upon poor. The farmers are well-educated,
experimental, generally affluent, and distinguished
by the bearing of independence and reflection.
During the reigns of the earliest Scoto-Saxon
kings, the people must have enjoyed the benefit of
those domestic fabrics without which society can
hardly exist. Yet at that period manufactories were
represented only by the achievements of handicrafts-
men. The making of salt, and the art of distilla-
tion, were the sole and miserable indications of pro-
gress at the demise of Alexander III. During the
14th and 15th centuries, an independent but ruined
nation scarcely enjoyed the most common handi-
crafts ; nor could two centuries of distractions, subse-
quent to the reign of James I., give much energy to
the incipient, the hardly-existing, manufactures of
the county. Legislation, during that period, vainly-
interposed encouragements to men without skill or
capital or social support to engage in the useful la-
bours of the loom ; and even after the Restoration it
strove assiduously, but without success, to introduce
various manufactures. A hundred and twenty years
ago, or little more, the fabrication of linen was,
almost perceptibly and on a very small scale, intro-
duced. The board of trustees for encouraging manu-
factures in North Britain, aided by several of the
nobility and gentry, soon made a strong and favour-
able impression. In 1729 a number of Dutch bleach-
ers from Haarlem commenced a bleachfield on the
water of Leith, a few miles west from Edinburgh ;
and soon exhibited to the gaze and the imitation of
Scotland the printing and stamping of all colours.
Extensive bleachiields still exist in the neighbour-
hood of the city, and on the banks of the Esk, par-
ticularly in the parish of Lasswade. At Kirkhill,
south from Edinburgh, is a very large establishment
for the preparation of linen-yarn. Woollen and
linen fabrics are woven, though not by any means to
an amount proportioned to the bulk and facilities of
the county, in Edinburgh, Leith, and Musselburgh.
At Stobbs and Roslin are the only manufactories of
gunpowder in Scotland. Mid-Lothian, however,
while possessing high advantages equal or superior
to those of many a district whose manufacturing
industry has made its weavers princes, and has
covered its surface with a swarming population, is
exceedingly and almost unaccountably deficient in
the amount and spirit of its manufactories. Its
principal factorial produce consists of salt, soap,
candles, glass, intoxicating liquors, pottery, leather,
iron, paper, and books. A cluster of large buildings,
called the Castle Silk mills, have been erected since
1835 on the banks of the Union canal, west of the
city, and have introduced the manufacture of silk
into the county. Paper of home-made manufacture
first issued from Edinburghshire ; and is now made at
Lasswade, Balerno, Melville, Penicuick, Colinton,
Polton, Auchindinny, and various other places on
the waters of Leith and Esk ; and, though not able
to compete in the finer qualities with the paper of the
south of England, supplies nearly all Scotland with
the best material for the press. Edinburghshire,
viewed in the aggregate, is far from being a manu-
facturing district, and appears, by its factorial pro-
duce, rather to apologize for its indolence, or its
aristocratic spirit, or its fondness for luxuriating in
the wealth and finery of its landscape, than to offer
competition to the plodding and matter-of-fact dis-
tricts of the kingdom.
Edinburgh is the only royal burgh in Mid-Lothian ;
and Dalkeith the only burgh of barony. Mussel-
burgh, Leith, Canongate, and Portsburgh — the latter
two incorporated with the metropolis — are burghs of
regality. Portobello, Newhaven, Inveresk, Mid-
Calder, and Penicuick, are considerable villages.
Lesser villages are Joppa, Corstorphine, Currie,
West-Calder, Gilmerton, Loanhead, Roslin, Lass-
wade, Ratho, Bonnyrig, Cramond, Pathhead, and
Slateford. There are also various hamlets. The
seats in the immediate neighbourhood of the city
belonging to the wealthiest class of its population,
are very numerous. — In 1831 the county contained
30 parishes, including St. Cuthberts and North and
South Leith ; but excluding Canongate and the par-
ishes within the royalty of Edinburgh. Since that
date 9 quoad nacra parishes, principally in the town
or suburbs of Edinburgh, have been erected out of
St. Cuthberts. Portobello, Newhaven, St. John's
of Leith, Gilmerton, Buccleuch of Dalkeith, Roslin,
and Musselburgh or North Esk, have also been
made parishes quoad sacra — The county sends one
member to parliament; and has its polling-places at
Edinburgh, Dalkeith, and Mid-Calder. Parliamen-
tary constituency, in 1839, 2,315. The court-of-
lieutenancy is divided into 6 districts The valued
rental, in 1674, was £191,054 Scotch; and the as-
sessed property, in 1815, £770,875. Population, in
484
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
1801, 122,954; in 1811, 148,607; in 1821, 191,514;
and in 1831, 219,345. The population, in 1831,
was distributed into 665 occupiers of land employing
labourers; 274 occupiers of land not employing la-
bourers; 3,637 agricultural labourers; 7,695 labour-
ers not agricultural ; 1 ,267 manufacturing operatives ;
23,780 persons employed in retail trades and handi-
crafts; 8,257 capitalists; 1,803 male servants; and
1,544 female servants. The total number of fami-
lies, in 1831, was 47,415; of inhabited houses 19,744.
— The number of parochial schools, in 1834, was 32,
conducted by 40 teachers, and attended by a maxi-
mum of 3,400 scholars; and of schools not parochial
325, conducted by 442 teachers, and attended by a
maximum of 13,176 scholars.
The maritime traffic of Mid- Lothian, and also of
East and West Lothian, Fecbleshire, and Selkirk-
shire, is concentrated at Leith, and is of considerable
extent. Fisherrow or Musselburgh is a port for
fishing-boats ; and Newhaven, besides being a fish-
port, is a post of communication with the coast of
Fife. Steam- vessels ply many times a-day between
the piers at Newhaven and Burntisland, Pettycur,
Kinghorn, and Kirkcaldy, on the opposite shore, and
connect Mid-Lothian and the capital with the east-
ern division of Scotland northward of the Forth.
The Union canal, stretching between Edinburgh and
the Forth and Clyde canal at a point near Falkirk,
traverses the parishes of St. Cuthberts, Colinton,
Currie, Ratho, and Kirkliston: see Union Canax.
A railway to communicate between Edinburgh and
Glasgow is in progress, and will run in the same
direction as the canal, intersecting the county a little
farther to the north: see Edinburgh and Glasgow
Railway. A completed railway communicates be-
tween Edinburgh and Dalkeith, and sends off short
branches along the coast; and another railway now
executing communicates between Edinburgh and
Newhaven. There are still various projects before
the public for the completion of a line of railway
communication between Edinburgh and London. In
our article Haddingtonshire we have given, in a
note, an outline of the projected East coast line.
Another line has been proposed by Mr. Millar start-
ing from near Hillwood, at the 7th mile from Edin-
burgh, on the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway, —
taking a course up the valley of the Almond by the
north side of the Pentland range, — passing about a
quarter of a mile to the north of the village of West-
Calder, and attaining its summit, at a point 835 feet
above sea-level, on the boundaries of the counties
of Mid-Lothian and Lanark, and 18} miles from
Hillwood. It then descends into the valley of the
Clyde, following for some distance the course of the
Mouse, which it crosses within 150 yards of the
village of Carstairs, whence it proceeds to the vil-
lage of Pettinain, and forms a junction with Mr.
Locke's proposed Glasgow and Carlisle line, at the
village of Thankerton [see articles Hamilton and
Thankerton]. The total length of this line to
Thankerton is 37 miles 41 chains; and the total
length to the Carlisle and Newcastle line, 97 miles
44 chains.— Another branch line has been projected
proceeding from Symington, about 2} miles south-
east of Thankerton, along the south side of the
Pendands, direct to Edinburgh. This line would
be 31 miles 3 chains in length All the great lines
of road in the county diverge from the metro-
polis. One leading to Haddington, Berwick-upon-
Tweed, and the east of England, runs down to
Portobello, and thence proceeds along the shore.
Another," leading to Lauder, passes through Dal-
keith, and leaves the county near the village of
Fala. A third, leading through Selkirk and Hawick
to Carlisle, and through Jedburgh to Newcastle-on.
Tyne, passes a little to the west of Dalkeith, and
traverses the parishes of Newbottle, Borthwick,
Heriot, and Stow, running along the banks of Gala
water from near its source till, in its company, it
leaves the county. A fourth, leading to Peebles,
breaks off from the former in the parish of Libberton,
and thence intersects the parishes of Lasswade and
Penicuick. A fifth, leading to Biggar and Dum-
fries, goes through the village of Morningside, skirts
the eastern part of the parish of Colinton, and inter-
sects the parishes of Glencorse and Penicuick. A
sixth, leading to Lanark, passes through the villages
of Slateford and Currie, and leaves the county near
Cross woodhill. A seventh, leading to Glasgow by
way of Whitburn, passes through the villages of
Hermiston, East-Calder, and Mid-Calder. An eighth,
leading to Glasgow by way of Bathgate, passes the
village of Corstorphine, and leaves the county a mile
south of the village of Kirkliston ; and it sends off,
in the parish of Corstorphine, a slightly diverging
branch which leads to Linlithgow and Falkirk. The
ninth and last great line of road passes through the
metropolitan suburb of the Dean, and intersects the
parish of Cramond, leading on to Queensferry, there
to communicate by steam-boat across the Forth with
the great road to Perth. Every part of the county,
or at least its non-pastoral districts, is freely inter-
sected with intermediate and cross roads.
The antiquities of Mid-Lothian, most instructive
and valuable, though least noticed and but partially
interesting, are the traces, in the names of its locali-
ties, of the presence and influence successively of
the Britons, the Romans, the Anglo-Saxons, and
the Scoto-Irish. The Ottadini and the Gadeni,
the British descendants of the first colonists, enjoyed
their original land during the second century ; and
left memorials of their existence in the names of the
Forth, the Almond, the Esk, the Leith, the Breich,
the Gore, and the Gogar, and of Cramond, Cock-
pen, Dalkeith, Dreghorn, lnch-keith, Roslin, and
Pendreich. The Romans, though untraceable in
the topographical nomenclature, have left roads, en-
campments, baths, and sepulchres sufficient to attest
their temporary dominance. The Anglo-Saxons,
who came into Mid-Lothian in fewer numbers than
into Berwickshire and East Lothian, have bequeath-
ed a much smaller proportion of names than in the
latter counties, but have left sufficient indications of
their presence in the names Stow, Newbottle, and
Lasswade, and in the occurrence in the south and
south-east of Law, Rig, Dod, Shiel, Lee, Dean,
Hope, Ham, Burgh, I aw, Cleugh, and Holm. But
there does not occur in the county the word Fell,
applied to a mountain, or any intimation of the pre-
sence at any period of a Scandinavian people. The
Scoto-Irish, who came in from the west, and acquired
entire ascendency, are abundantly commemorated in
the local nomenclature, and have bequeathed Gaelic
names too numerous to be exhibited in a list, and so
obvious as to be noticeable by even a careless observer.
The Gaelic names were imposed partly after the year
843, when the Scottish period commenced ; but
chiefly, perhaps, after the year 1020, when Lothian
was ceded to the Scottish king. Owing, probably,
to the comparatively recent superinduction of Eng-
lish names upon Gaelic ones, the proportion of
Anglo-Saxon in the nomenclature of the county is
about four times more than that of the Celtic or
British.
British antiquities, though not abundant, occa-
sionally occur. Druidical circles appear in the par-
ish of Kirknewton and on Heriot-town-hill. Cairns,
which may be regarded as funeral monuments of the
Britons, exist in the parishes of Borthwick and
Colinton. Tumuli, which mark the scenes of British
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
485
conflict, and whence stone coffins were dug, occur in
the parish of Mid-Calder, and were levelled at dates
not remote in the parishes of Newbattle and Lass-
wade. Oval or circular camps, indicating by their
form that they owed their construction to the Bri-
tons, may be traced, or are still of conspicuous out-
line, in the parishes of Penicuick, Borthwick, Crich-
ton, Lasswade, and Libberton. Strengths, which
probably were, in their original shape, fortlets of the
Britons, are the maiden castles of Roslin and Edin-
burgh. The caves of Hawthornden, though im-
proved by warriors of a later date, were very like-
ly hiding-places of the British tribes The Romans,
who entered Mid-Lothian toward the conclusion of
the first century, and did not finally retire from it
till after the lapse of 360 years, seized the best places
of defence, and secured their power by a ramification
of camps, forts, and roads, which have left so nu-
merous traces as to draw largely on attention in
minute topographical description, and they reared
altars, baths, granaries, and other works of art,
which still occasionally meet the eye, and dropped
innumerable coins and weapons, and other minor
relics, which have for generations arrested the de-
lighted gaze of many an antiquary, and continue,
to the present hour, to be not unfrequently disclosed to
view in turning up the soil The Anglo-Saxons and
the Scots bequeathed numerous castles and strengths,
many of which have totally disappeared, while
others are wholly or partially in a ruinous condi-
tion. The most remarkable are Craigmillar castle,
in the vicinity of Edinburgh ; Crichton castle, 10
miles south-east of Edinburgh ; Borthwick castle,
2 miles farther south ; Dalhousie castle, in the parish
of Cockpen ; Hawthornden and Roslin castles, in
the parish of Lasswade ; RaVensnook castle, in the
parish of Penicuick ; Dalkeith castle, now obliter-
ated by the hand of modern improvement ; Cous-
land castle, in the parish of Cranston ; Lennox
tower, in the parish of Currie ; Catcune castle, on
the Gore water; Locherwart castle, near the sources
of the Tyne ; Luggate castle, on Luggate water ;
and Fala tower, on the northern side of Fala moss.
Many of these form the subject of separate articles
in the present work. Of all the castles, Craigmillar,
both for the beauty of its situation, and for its ex-
tensive means of defence, is most worthy of notice.
See Craigmillar Castle.
The ecclesiastical antiquities of the metropolis
and its suburbs are numerous and interesting, and
are noticed in the articles Edinburgh and Holt-
rood. Extensive monasteries existed at Newbattle,
Temple, and Torphichen. Corstorphine church, and
the church of Duddingston, are curious remains, still
in use, of a considerably high antiquity. On Soutra
hill, in the parish of Fala, are remains of an ancient
hospital. In the parish of Cranston are the ruins of
some buildings and enclosures which are conjectured
to have been monastic. But the most beautiful eccle-
siastical relic of antiquity out of Edinburgh, is Roslin
chapel, in the parish of Lasswade : See Roslin
The Roman legionaries, who delighted to dwell along
the salubrious shores of Mid-Lothian, possibly enjoy-
ed, to some extent, the surpassingly rich religious be-
nefits of the Christian dispensation. The Saxon col-
onists of the county derived much religious instruc-
tion from the efforts of Baldred, and from the more
excursive and productive labours of Cuthbert. The
bishopric of Lindisfarn, established in 635, appears
to have included Mid-Lothian ; but was obliged per-
manently to renounce it at the abdication of the au-
thority of the Northumbrian Saxons. After the
ascendency of the Scottish kings the county was
annexed to the bishopric of St. Andrews, and con-
tinued to be attached to it till the period of the Re-
formation. Under the reforming processes of Davia
I., the churches of Edinburghshire were probably
placed under the subordinate authority of the deans
of Lothian and Linlithgow. Anciently, the arch-
deacons and deans of Lothian were persons of great
consideration, and acted a conspicuous part in na-
tional affairs ; rising, in many instances, to the rank
of bishops, serving occasionally as chancellors of the
king, and wearing, in one case, the hat and the dig-
nity of cardinal. The office of archdeacon, however,
became eventually merged in that of the official of Lo-
thian. This was a person who ranked high, and
wielded prodigious influence ; and he usually resided
in Edinburgh, and acted a conspicuous part in the pub-
lic conventions and the royal councils. In general, the
ecclesiastical affairs of the county were fitfully man-
aged till the Reformation freed them from the noxi-
ous influences of the Romish superstitions and errors,
and placed them under the popular regimen of pres-
byteries and synods. In 1633, Charles I., in the
prosecution of his wild and fatal scheme for imposing
episcopacy upon the reformed and presbyterian Scot-
tish people, erected Edinburgh into a bishopric, and
gave the incumbent prelatic domination over all
Mid-Lothian, and various other territories ; but
though he thus, at the latest practicable hour,
technically raised the metropolis to the dignity of
a city, he could not prevent the new bishopric,
only five years after its erection, from falling perma-
nently to ruin amid the summary overthrow of the
whole episcopalian fabric of the kingdom.
Fields of battle, with the reminiscences which
they suggest, hold a middle place between anti-
quities and history, and partake the character of
both. Every foot of ground covered by the metro-
polis and its environs, and many a spot throughout
the county, were the scenes of sanguinary contests
which, in many instances, involved the fate of the
kingdom. Places in which the successive colon-
ists, conquerors, and lords of the ascendant during
the lapse of thirteen centuries, fought for victory
or possession, are either identified with the castle
and town of Edinburgh, or so obscurely intimated
as to be, in a great degree, matter of conjecture.
Near Roslin, in the parish of Lasswade, a Scottish
army of from 8,000 to 10,000, led by Sir Simon
Fraser and Sir John Cumyn, achieved three suc-
cessive victories, on the 14th of February, 1303,
over an aggregate English force of 30,000 men under
Ralph Confrey, treasurer to Edward I. The Bor-
ough-moor, in the vicinity of Edinburgh, was, in
1334, the scene, after a desperate conflict, of the
utter discomfiture and dispersion of an English force
under Count Guy of Naumur, by the Scottish pa-
triots the Earls of Murray and March, Sir Alexander
Ramsay, and their followers. A spot in the parish
of Crichton witnessed, in 1337, another sharp con-
flict between the Scotch and English troops ; and
various other localities in the county were drenched
with blood during the sanguinary and prolonged wars
of the succession. Sir Alexander Ramsay of Dal-
wolsie, the ancestor of the present noble family of
Dalhousie, often sallied from the caves of Hawthorn-
den, and chased the mercenary forces of England
from the vicinity of the metropolis. In 1385, Mid-
Lothian was, in many places, devastated by pillage
and conflagration during the retaliatory incursion of
Richard II. ; and a century and a half later, it consi-
derably suffered in several localities from the invasions
which were made by England, to resent the disar-
rangement of Henry VIII. 's plan of marrying his son
to the young Scottish Queen. In 1547, the field of
Pinkie, lying between the village of Inveresk and
Walliford and Carberry, witnessed a disastrous on
slaught, in which 10,000 Scottish troops were killed.
436
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
and 1,500 made prisoners, by an English force who
were commanded by the Duke of Somerset, and did
not themselves lose 200 men in the action. In 1567,
Carberry hill, in the parish of Inveresk, was the
scene of a battle array, though not of an actual con-
flict, and of the surrender of Queen Mary immediately
prior to her imprisonment in Lochleven castle. In
1666, on Rullion-green, in the parish of Glencorse,
an armed body of Covenanters twice repulsed a
party of the King's troops under General Dalziel,
and, on a third attack, were routed, and upwards of
50 of them slain.
The history of Mid-Lothian is, in most particulars,
so identified with that of the metropolis, which has
already been sketched in the article Edinburgh, and
in others has been so anticipated in our views of its
agriculture, antiquities, and fields of battle, that little
remains to be told except the facts which refer to
territorial distribution, and the erection of the dis-
trict into a county. Mid-Lothian, very probably,
was placed under the salutary regimen of a sheriff,
as early as the epoch of the introduction of the Scoto-
Saxon laws. A sheriff certainly had jurisdiction
over it in the reign of David ; though, within what
limits, cannot be well-ascertained. A sheriffdom is
very apparent in the reigns of Malcolm IV., William
the Lion, Alexander II., and down to the restora-
tion or second reign of David II. ; and appears, dur-
ing all these periods, to have extended, along with
Edinburghshire, with the limits of which it was iden-
tical, over Haddingtonshire on the east, and Linlith-
gowshire on the west. But from the time of David
II., down to its adjustment in its present form, the
sheriffdom or shire suffered successive limitations ;
and in every age it was abridged in its authority by
various jurisdictions within its bounds; and, for a
considerable period, it was confused in its adminis-
tration by distribution into wards, each of which was
superintended by a sergeant. From the 13th to the
18th century the office was filled by individuals of
note in the county and its vicinity, among whom
were the Sinclairs of RosUn, the Prestons of Craig-
millar, Lindsay of Byres, Morton, who was after-
wards regent, Sir William Seton, and the Earls of
Lauderdale and Dalhousie. As early as the reign of
James III. the sheriffs of Edinburghshire began to
attend parliament, and owed their attendance on it as
the highest court. In 1558 and 1567 James, Earl of
Bothwell, in the capacity of sheriff, jointly with the
marshal and the constable of Scotland, opened par-
liaments by commission. In 1569 even the sheriff-
depute, John Marjoribanks, was joint-commissioner
with the marshal and constable in opening a par-
liament. In August 1744 James, Earl of Lauder-
dale, succeeded his father in the sheriffdom, and was
the last who held the office under the old regime.
The first sheriff under the present improved practice,
was Charles Maitland of Pitrichie, who received his
appointment in 1 748, with a salary of .£250.
A constable was attached, probably from the
earliest period, to the castle of Edinburgh ; and,
as early as 1278, appears to have exercised civil juris-
diction. The constabulary must have suffered dim-
inution when the Castle was demolished by the policy
of Bruce ; but, at some previous periods, it was suf-
ficiently powerful to compete with the sheriffdom for
domination over the whole county From the year
1-482 the provost of Edinburgh had the power of
sheriff, coroner, and admiral, within the territories
of the city and those of its dependency of Leith The
abbot of Holyrood, under the charter of David I.,
was entitled to his court as fully as the abbots of
Dunfermline and Kelso; and acquired from Robert
III. a right of regality over all the lands of the
abbey, wherever situated, and particularlv over the
barony of Broughton in Mid-Lothian. The jurisdic-
tion was acquired after the Reformation by the trus-
tees of Heriot's hospital, and, at the epoch of the
abolition of hereditary jurisdictions, was estimated
by the trustees at £5,000, but compensated by only
£486 19s. 8d The monks of Dunfermline obtained
from David I. baronial jurisdiction over the manor
of Inveresk, including the town and port of Mussel-
burgh, and maintained their lordship and regality till
the period of the Reformation. The jurisdiction was
bestowed by James VI. upon Sir John Maitland, in-
herited in 1649 by John, Earl of Lauderdale, sold in
1709 to the Duchess of Buccleuch, and eventually
compensated, in common with all the baronial juris-
dictions of the Buccleuch family, by £3,400 The
regality of Dalkeith was obtained, in early times, by
the Douglasses of Lothian ; confirmed in 1564 to
James, Earl of Morton ; passed into the possession
of the family of Buccleuch ; and ceased in 1747
The barony of Ratho came into the possession of the
Stuart of Scotland as a dowry of his wife, the daugh-
ter of Robert Bruce ; it was formed into a regality,
and given to the royal heir as Stuart, when Robert
II. ascended the throne; it was erected, in common
with the other estates of the Stuarts, into a royal
jurisdiction, and given by Robert III. to his son
James ; and it was disjoined from Mid-Lothian and
annexed to Renfrewshire, when the sheriffdom of
Renfrew was settled by dismemberment from Lanark-
shire.— The barony of Ballentrode, and the regality
of Torphichen were vested in the knights of St. John
of Jerusalem; and continued, after the Reformation,
to be enjoyed by them as temporal lords. A juris-
diction over the lands of the Knights Templars, in
the parish of Cramond, was possessed by theij pro-
prietors, and passed at the Reformation into tbe
hands of the family of Primrose The extensive
estates in Mid-Lothian which belonged to the arch-
bishop of St. Andrews were erected into a regality,
and were under the control of a bailie appointed by
the proprietor.. — The baronies or lands of Dudding-
ston, of Preston-hall, of Carington, and of Carberry,
were also all regalities administered, in the case of
the first, by a bailie, and in the case of the others, re-
spectively by the Duke of Gordon, Lord Dalmeny, and
Sir Robert Dickson In addition to all the privileged
authorities now enumerated, which in the aggregate
must have greatly embarrassed the civil administra-
tion of the county, there existed from the early
period of the reign of Malcolm IV. a justiciary of
Lothian, who exercised a greater power than even
the sheriff, and must have very materially abridged
and restrained the jurisdiction of the sheriffship.
The power of the Archbishop of St. Andrews, both
baronial and ecclesiastical, must likewise have thrown
impediments continually in the way of the sheriff's
movements ; and even after the Reformation, when
prelacy and its appliances were abolished, continued
tor a time to be perpetuated as to its effects, in the
twofold jurisdiction, ordinary and universal, of the
commissary-court of Edinburgh. The overthrow of
all hereditary jurisdictions, in 1747, was one of the
happiest events in the diversified history of Mid-
Lothian. The civil affairs of the county are now
managed by the class of functionaries common to the
several counties of Scotland; and by about forty
deputy-lieutenants, distributed among six districts
into which the county is divided.
EDINBURGH AND GLASGOW CANAL.
See Union Canal.
EDINBURGH AND GLASGOW RAILWAY.
This magnificent work, an act for which was ob-
tained on the 4th of July, 1838, after a Parliamentary
contest of three sessions, was begun at the end of
that year, and it is expected will be open to the
EDINBURGH AND GLASGOW RAILWAY.
487
public in Autumn 1841. It is destined doubtless
to form the great line of transit between the Eastern
metropolis of Scotland and her Commercial capital
in the west, and is 46 miles in length, and — with the
exception of an inclined plane at Glasgow, which
is to be worked by a stationary engine — presents
nearly a level line throughout, the ruling gradient
being 1 in 880,* and that only for a few miles.
The guage or width of the rails will be 4 feet, 8|
inches, and their weight 75 lbs. to the yard. Its
eastern or Edinburgh terminus is, at present, at the
Haymarket, at the western extremity of the city,
and immediately to the left of the point at which
the turnpike road to Glasgow, by Coatbridge and
Bathgate, emerges from the city. From this point,
pursuing a course to the south of west, through St.
Cuthbert's parish, it is carried across the "Water of
Leith, at the distance of one mile from the terminus,
by a viaduct of 3 arches. One mile beyond this it
enters Corstorphine parish ; and thereafter runs for
about half-a-mile through the parish of Currie, in
which it passes the hamlet of Culton. It then enters
the parish of Ratho, through which it runs for a dis-
tance of nearly 3i miles, bending nearly due west
after crossing Ratho burn, but again turning to the
south of west after leaving Norton mains, in which
direction it enters Kirkliston parish in Linlithgow-
shire, through which it sweeps, in an easy curve of
li mile radius, a distance of 3^ miles. Hitherto the
line has passed through a fertile and beautiful coun-
try, by an easy line presenting no extensive embank-
ments or deep cuttings; but shortly after entering
Linlithgowshire, it is conducted across the valley of
the Almond by a stupendous viaduct consisting of
36 arches, of 50 feet span each, and varying from 60
to 85 feet in height; which is connected by a lofty
embankment with another viaduct of 7 arches of the
same gigantic dimensions, and known as the Brox-
burn viaduct, by which the line is carried across the
turnpike road to Glasgow. The view from this
part of the line is magnificent, but the eye of the
amateur would have been still further gratified had
the line of arches been continued, at least between
the two viaducts, in place of the present lofty and
ponderous, though probably less expensive embank-
ment. From the Broxburn viaduct, the line pro-
ceeds in a north-west direction, impinging on the
Union canal, passing the solitary ruin of Niddry
castle on the right, and then plunging into a tunnel
of 360 yards in length, by which it is conducted
through a ridge of whinstone rock at Wiiiehburgh,
soon after emerging from which it enters Abercorn
parish, at the 11th mile from Edinburgh. A deep
cutting of nearly 2 miles in length occurs in this par-
ish, through which the line pursues a course more
nearly west. Until the completion of the 12th mile
from Edinburgh the ascent has been gradual, amount-
ing only to 63 feet; that is, on an average, only
1 in 1,000; from this point to the viaduct by
which it is conducted across the Avon, and leaves
Linlithgow parish, a distance of about 4J miles,
it has an inclination of 1 in 1,056. The line skirts
the ancient town of Linlithgow on the south, pass-
ing between the town and the Union canal, and
commanding a tine view of the palace and the adja-
cent lake. The Avon, and the finely-wooded valley
through which that romantic stream runs, is crossed
by a viaduct of 20 arches, some of them upwards of
90 feet in height, and of beautiful light masonry,
from which the magnificent aqueduct by which the
Union canal is led across the same valley, at a point
a little higher up the stream, is visible in its full ex-
» The ruling grutWont. or steepest inclination, in the Liver,
pool and Manchester line is i in 89; in the Grand Junction,
1 in 177; in the London and Birmingham, I in 330.
tent. The surface of the Avon viaduct is only 38
feet above the level of the Edinburgh terminus. It
conducts the line into Muiravonside parish in Stir-
lingshire, through which it runs nearly due west
for a distance of above 2 miles, passing the ruined
castle of Almond on the left. A little beyond the
20th mile, it enters the parish of Polmont, in which
it passes to the south of the village of Redding.
From the 23d to near the 30th mile, it intersects
the parish of Falkirk, in a line nearly parallel with
the Union canal. The high ground immediately
south of Falkirk, and part of Callendar park, the
seat of Mr. Forbes, is pierced by a tunnel of 880
yards in length ; shortly after emerging from which,
at a point only 68 feet 8 inches above the level of
the Edinburgh terminus, a branch-line will lead
off on the right to the thriving town of Falkirk,
whence, or from a point more to the west, another
railway-line may probably, at no distant period,
strike off to Stirling, and from thence across the
Forth to Perth. A little beyond the 25th mile, the
line is conducted across the Union canal locks by
a viaduct of a striking appearance and great solid-
ity, the principal arch in which has a span of 131
feet. The view on the portion of the line from
the western extremity of the Callendar tunnel to
the last-mentioned viaduct is very magnificent, pre-
senting the rich carse of Falkirk stretching away
towards the east, with that town close under the
eye of the spectator, — the windings of the Forth
and Stirling castle, with the rich level carse-ground
between, in the centre, — and the towering heights
of Benledi and the Ochils, Benlomond and the
Grampians, in the distance. Passing Tamfuirhill,
and crossing Bonnymuir, a little beyond the 29th
mile, the railway enters Cumbernauld parish in the
shire of Dumbarton, through which it runs in a
waving line — having the Forth and Clyde canal on
the right — a distance of nearly 6 miles. In the neigh-
bourhood of Castlecary, it crosses the road from
Falkirk to Cumbernauld, and the deep ravine of the
Red burn, by a viaduct of 8 arches, each nearly 100
feet in height, — the one end terminating on a forced
embankment, the other resting on the far-famed
remains of the Roman camp at this spot. At Castle-
cary will be the station for Stirling and other towns
to the north of the Forth. From a little beyond
Castlecary the general direction of the line to its
western terminus is to the south of west. Passing
about a mile to the north of Cumbernauld, it con-
tinues on, through rather a rough country, but com-
manding an extensive view of the valley stretching
along the southern base of the Campsie hills, till it
approaches Croy mill, which is the summit of the
line, being 79 feet above the level of the eastern ter-
minus, and 49 feet above the top of the inclined
plane at the Glasgow terminus. Running through
Drumshanty moss, and across the Luggie, it is
carried, a little beyond the 39th mile, across the
Monkland and Kirkintilloch railway. Near this
latter point will be the Kirkintilloch station, from
whence, it is probable, a branch will be formed to
Kirkintilloch. The coking establishment for the
line will also be near this : Kilsyth and the neigh-
bourhood producing the finest charing coal in Scot-
land. Entering the county of Lanark in Calder
parish, the line proceeds, with a few moderate cut-
tings and embankings, through a rude district of
country, exhibiting the struggles of the husbandman
with a niggardly soil, until it crosses the Kirkintil-
loch road near Bishopbriggs, and enters the Barony
parish at the 43d mile. From this point to the
head of the inclined plane at Cowlairs, there is some
heavy cutting and embanking. At the head of the
inclined plane near Cowlairs, the engine-establish-
EDI
488
EDR
ment will be erected ; and here tlie fixed engines
will be placed to work the tunnel terminating in
the depot in Queen-street, which being within 300
yards of the Exchange, and on a level with the
principal streets of Glasgow, while it is free of sur-
rounding buildings, is considered to be superior, in
point of locality, to any railway terminus in the
empire. The inclined plane will be about 2,000
yards in length, consisting of open cutting, and a
tunnel divided by eyes, or openings of 40 feet each
in length, into three portions of 550, 300, and 298
yards.
Such is a brief outline of this great undertaking,
by which the cities of Edinburgh and Glasgow, con-
taining a united population of about half-a-million, will
be brought within H hour's travelling of each other,
— a railway communication opened up betwixt the
Eastern and Western seas of Scotland, — a continuous
line of railway communication effected from Leith to
Ayr on the one hand, and, ultimately, it is probable,
from Edinburgh and Glasgow, by way of Stirling, to
Perth, and thence to Dundee, on the other, — and
the two proposed extension lines from England, the
one on the east coast from Newcastle to Edinburgh,
and the other on the west from Carlisle to Glasgow,
connected together so as to form a continuous line
of railway communication between London, Bir-
mingham, Liverpool, Manchester, Carlisle, Glasgow,
Edinburgh, Newcastle, York, Leeds, &c. &c. The
most sanguine mind is lost in conjecture while at-
tempting to estimate the influence which the rapidity
and facility of communication with all the great
manufacturing and commercial points and markets
in the island thus afforded will have in increasing
and developing the resources of Scotland.
The capital of the company consists of £900,000,
held in 1 8,000 shares, with power toborrow ±'300,000.
The formation of the line and permanent way will
not, it is expected, much exceed ±800,000, and the
cost of land will probably be under ±200,000.
EDINKILLIE. See Edenkeellie.
EDLESTON. See Eddleston.
EDNAM,* a parish on the northern verge of Rox-
burghshire ; bounded on the north and north east by
Berwickshire ; on the south-east by Sprouston ; on
south-west by Kelso and part of Berwickshire ; and
on the west by Stitchel. It approaches being of the
figure of a parallelogram lying from south-west to
north-east ; but has sinuosities in the outline, and
expands at the north. Its greatest length, from
Spittal on the south to the boundary beyond Girth-
ridge-hall on the north, is 3i miles ; and its greatest
breadth, in a line drawn over High-ridge-hall, is 2|.
The Tweed forms the south-east boundary-line ; and
the Eden intersects the parish from east to west, di-
vidingit into not very unequal parts. Along the banks
of both rivers are beautiful and rich low grounds.
The district, as a whole, is low and level, but de-
lightfully diversified. The generally flat ground
gently rises, in some places, into inclined plains ;
and, in two spots, swells into fine elevations, one
near the village called Edenham hill, and the other
between the Tweed and the Eden called Hender-
side hill. The land is among the best in the Merse,
and is well-cultivated, well-enclosed, and agreeably
variegated with plantation. The parish is traversed
along the Tweed, by the road from Kelso to Cold-
stream, and through its centre by the road from
Kelso to Berwick by way of Swinton James
Thomson, the author of ' The Seasons,' and the son
of the first minister of the parish after the Revolu-
tion, was born in 1 700, in the manse of Ednam. An
* Ednam is Bomptimes written Edenham, and is a contrac-
tion of that word,— signifying the village on the Eden, and ap-
propriately descriptive.
obelisk to his memory, 52 feet high, and built in
1 820, stands on a rising ground about a mile from
the village — Ednam village is beautifully situated
on the Eden, 21- miles north-east of Kelso. In 1558,
it was burnt by" the Earl of Northumberland. Po-
pulation of the parish, in 1801,598; in 1831, 634.
Houses 124. Assessed property, in 1815, ±8,847
Ednam is in the presbytery of Kelso, and synod of
Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Crown. Sti-
pend ±158 6s. 8d. ; glebe ±15 Is. 8d. The parish-
church was built in 1800. Sittings about 260.
Schoolmaster's salary ±30, with about ±35 or ±36
school-fees. As early as the 12th century, the mo-
ther or parish-church of Ednam had two dependent
chapels ; one at Newton, now Newton-don ; and the
other at Nathanthorn, now Nanthorn ; and, along
with these chapels, it belonged to the monks of
Kelso. The kings had at Ednam a mill, whence
David, in 1128, granted to the monks of Kelso, 12
chalders of malt, with the turbary in the moor of
Ednam.
EDROM,f a parish in the district of Merse, Ber-
wickshire. In form it presents extreme angles to the
north, south, and east, and would be nearly an equila-
teral triangle, but for having a deep indentation and
a small wing on the west, and a less considerable in-
dentation on the south-east. It is bounded on the
north by Buncle ; on the north-east by Chirnside and
Hutton ; on the south-east by Hutton and Whit-
some ; and on the south-west and west by Fogo,
Langton, andDunse. Its greatest length is 7 J miles;
its greatest breadth 4 miles ; and its superficial area
13 square miles. Except in the north-west division,
where there are inconsiderable rising grounds, the
surface is flat. Whittadder water comes down upon
the parish at its north-west angle, and, over a distance
of 6 miles, forms its northern and north-eastern
boundary-line. Blackadder water comes in from the
south-west, forms, for li mile, the boundary-line
with Fogo, and then runs 5 miles north-eastward
through Edrom, and falls into the Whittadder at the
village of Allantown. Langton-burn, and another
brook flowing from the west, unite with the Blackad-
der, the former drawing, for 21 miles, the boundary-
line with Dunse. Near Langton-burn, on the Edrom
side, is a mineral well, called Dunse spa, which was
long celebrated for its reputed medicinal qualities,
but has latterly fallen into disrepute, and become
quite neglected. The soil, on a small part of the dis-
trict, is naturally moorish, but in general is rich and
fertile, and, excepting about one-eighth of the area,
tastefully or necessarily devoted to plantations, build-
ings and roads, is all arable. Pools and lochlets for-
merly generated marsh and rendered the climate in-
salubrious ; but they have been completely drained,
to the benefit alike of health and of agricultural
produce. On the estate of Kimmergham on the
Blackadder is a valuable bed of shell-marl, which
has contributed much to the enrichment of neighbour-
ing soils. Sandstone abounds, and is worked in
several quarries. Blackadder-house, on the right
bank of the Blackadder near its embouchure, is an
elegant modern edifice, accompanied with extensive
shrubberies and green-houses, and a beautiful Gothic
conservatory which was constructed at the cost of
several thousand pounds. Allanbank-house, Kelloe,
and Kimmergham, all on the same stream, Broom-
house on the Whittadder, and Nisbet, a seat of Lord
Sinclair, at the western boundary, are all mansions
possessing the attractions either of architecture or of
f Adder or Ader is the Ciirnbrn-British A-wedur, *a Running
water;' and Ader-htimSrHt twisted into Ederham, and then
abbreviated into Edrom — means ' the Hamlet on the running
water,' and well describes the position of even the modern hair>-
let and the church, overlooking the stream of Whittadder,
EDZ
489
EGL
beautiful demesne and cheering situation. The par-
ish, though not intersected by any main line of road,
is abundantly provided with facilities of communica-
tion. Over the Whittadder are two bridges, and
over the Blaekadder four, but two of the latter are
only for foot-passengers. At Broomhouse on the
Whittadder, and Allanbank on the Blaekadder, are
extensive paper-mills. Allanbank is celebrated as the
scene, in 1674, of a Covenanters' conventicle, between
3,000 and 4,000 in number, to whom the eminent
and devout ministers, Blaekadder and Welch, assist-
ed by three of their brethren, preached and dispensed
the Lord's Supper. The hamlet of Edrom stands on
the north-west corner of the parish, 3.^ miles north-
east of Dunse, on the road between that town and
Berwick, and is the seat of the parish-church and
delightfully situated. The village of Allanton,
with a population of 250, has an endowed school, and
three inns. See Allanton. Population of the par-
ish, in 1801, 1,355; in 1831, 1,435. Houses 272.
Assessed property, in 1815, ±'14,288 Edrom is in
the presbytery of Chirnside, and synod of Merse and
Teviotdale. Patron, the Crown. Stipend £242
16s. 7d. ; glebe .£15. Unappropriated teinds £337
13s. lid. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4id., with
about £15 school-fees. According to an ecclesiasti-
cal survey in 1836, the population was then 1,458; of
whom 835 belonged to the Establishment, and 623 to
rrfher denominations. The dissenters have no place
of worship in the parish, but are connected with con-
gregations at Dunse, Horndean, and Chirnside. The
parish-church is supposed to have been built about
the year 1499; and was repaired in 1696, reseated
and repaired in 1782, and subsequently fitted up with
two private galleries. Sittings 407. Robert Black-
adder, first archbishop of Glasgow — whose family de-
rived its surname from the river of the parish — built
to the ancient church a vaulted aisle, part of which
is still standing. A gallery in front of the pulpit is
over the burying vault of the Kelloe family. The
church, with its lands, was granted by Gospatrick,
Earl of Dunbar, and afterwards confirmed by David I.,
to the monks of Coldingham ; and continued to be
held by them, and served by a vicar, till the Reforma-
tion. During the minority of James V., the most
murderous contests for the lands of Blaekadder con-
tinued between the Homes on the one side, and the
Blackadders of Blaekadder on the other, and violent-
ly, though not rightfully, terminated in favour of the
Homes.
EDZELL, a parish in the north-east of Forfarshire.
It is of a triangular form, but with a protrusion on
the southern angle ; and is bounded on the north-
east and east by Kincardineshire , on the south-west
by Strickathrow and Lethnot ; and on the west and
north-west by Lochlee. From its southern angle
at the confluence of the East and West waters, to its
northern angle at Mount Batlock, it measures 12J
miles ; and from its western angle at Clash, to a curve
in its eastern boundary near Dorly, it measures 6|
miles. For4J miles, the south-eastern part is a sort
of peninsula, the East and the West waters flowing
along its limits, and forming a confluence, under the
name of the North Esk, at its extremity. Both of
these streams approach the parish from the west: the
former intersecting it over a distance of 5£ miles in
passing to the eastern limit, there to become its
boundary-line. In the western and northern sec-
tions the parish is hilly ; but in the southern section,
and in places traversed by the East water, it is more
open, and well-sheltered with plantation. The great-
er part of the district being bleak and unsheltered,
the air is generally sharp and piercing, but is not
insalubrious Three of those monuments of antiqui-
ty, called Druidical temples, are in this parish ; two
within a few yards of each other, at Culindir, and
one at Dalbogg. They consist of tall upright
stones, enclosing elliptical spaces, the area of the
largest being 45 feet by 36. — The castle of Edzell is
a magnificent ruin. It consists of two stately towers,
in different styles of architecture, and evidently built
at different periods ; but connected by an extensive
wall, and formerly winged with buildings in the rear.
The proprietors of this castle, the Lindsays of Glen-
esk, surpassed in power any other family in the
county. One of them became heir to his cousin,
Earl Crawford, but did not retain the peerage in his
family. Another, about the beginning of the 16th
century, built in Edzell a small castle, called Auch-
mull ; and in Lochlee, another called Innermask ; ami
was compelled to burrow in them as hiding holes
from the inquisition made after him for the murder
of Lord Spynie. — Edzell is provided with two lines
of road spread along the vale of the East water, one
on each bank, and with numerous cross-roads in its
peninsular division. Population of the parish, in
1801, 1,012; in 1831,974. Houses 214. Assessed
property, in 1815, £1,375 Edzell is in the presby-
tery of Brechin, and synod of Angus and Mearns.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend £158 6s. 8d. ; glebe
£9. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4|d., with other
emoluments £30.
EGLINTON CASTLE, a noble mansion, the
seat of the Earl of Eglinton, situated on the banks
of the Lugton, in the south of the parish of Kilwin-
ning, district of Cunningham, 2| miles north of Ir-
vine in Ayrshire, and 26 from Glasgow. This edi-
fice is of a castellated yet modern and very stately
and magnificent structure, and was built about the
year 1 798. A spectator, looking upon it from any
part of the lawns, has high conceptions of its gran-
deur, and of the taste and opulence of its proprietor;
and the more minutely he surveys it, he experiences
these conceptions becoming more lofty and brilliant.
There is a large circular keep, and at the corners
are circular turrets joined together by a curtain, — to
use the language of fortification. The whole is
pierced with modern windows, which in some de-
gree destroy he castellated effect, but add to the in-
ternal comfort. The interior of the fabric corre-
sponds with the magnitude and the beauty of its ex-
terior. From a spacious entrance-hall, a saloon
opens, 36 feet in diameter, the whole height of the
edifice, and lighted from above ; and from this the
principal rooms enter. All the apartments are spa-
cious, well-lighted, and furnished and adorned in the
most superb manner. One of them in the front is
52 feet long, 32 wide, and 24 from floor to ceiling.
Every thing about the castle contributes to an im-
posing display of splendid elegance and refined taste.
Nor are the lawns around it less admired for their
fine woods, and varied surfaces and beautiful scenery.
The park around the castle is 1,200 acres in extent,
and has one-third of its area in plantation. — The first
of the ancient and originally Norman family of Mont-
gomery, who settled in Britain, was Roger de Mont-
gomery, or Mundegumbrie. Under the banner of
William the Conqueror — to whom he was related —
he obtained great distinction ; and, accompanying that
monarch into England, he, in 1066, commanded the
van of his army at the battle of Hastings. In guer-
don of his bravery, he was created Earl of Chiches-
ter and Arundel, and afterwards Earl of Shrewsbury,
and, in a short period, lord of no fewer than 57 lord-
ships throughout England; and, at the same time,
received extensive possessions in Salop. Having made
a martial incursion into Wales, he captured the cas-
tle of Baldwin, and imposed upon it his own name
of Montgomery, — a name which not only it, but the
romantically situated town in its vicinity, and the
EGL
490
EIL
entire county in which it stands, have permanently
retained. The first of the family who settled in
Scotland, was Robert de Montgomery. Walter, the
son of Allan, the first steward, having obtained from
David I. several Scottish estates, Robert accompanied
him from Wales to take possession of them, and re-
ceived from him the manor of Eaglesham in Renfrew-
shire. This was, for two centuries, the chief pos-
session of the Scottish section of the Montgomeries.
John de Montgomery, seventh laird of Eaglesham,
married Elizabeth, daughter and sole heir of Sir
Hugh de Eglinton, and niece of King Robert II., and
obtained through her the baronies of Eglinton and
Ardrossan. At the battle of Otterburn he had the
command of part of the Scottish army under the
brave Earl of Douglas, and, by his personal valour
and military conduct, contributed not a little to the
celebrated victory which was achieved. The re-
nowned Henry Percy, well known by the name of
Hotspur, who was general of the English army, Sir
John Montgomery took prisoner with his own hands;
and with the ransom he received for him, he built
the castle of Polnoon in Renfrewshire : see article
Eaglesham. His grandson, Sir Alexander Mont-
gomery, was raised by James II., about 1488, to the
title of lord Montgomery, and inaugurated into the
office of king's bailie of Cunningham. His son, Hugh,
was elevated, about 1508, to the title of Earl of Eglin-
ton ; and, a few years previously, in June, 1498, ob-
tained a charter to himself and his heirs of the office
of bailie of Cunningham, and chamberlain of the town
of Irvine. About the time of his obtaining this char-
ter, a feud arose between him and Lord Kilmaurs,
which continued between the families, and occasion-
ally blazed forth in deeds of violence, and originated
tedious and fruitless appeals to umpires, till after the
union of the crowns. Hugh, one of the line of Earls,
came into possession of the earldom when consider-
ably under 16 years of age; and having, for a time,
been placed or rather coercively brought under the
curatorship of his grand uncle, Sir Neil Montgomery,
of Langshaw, he eventually enjoyed his inheritance
during only ten months when he fell the victim of his
family's hereditary feud. Riding from his own cas-
tle, towards Stirling, on the 20th of April, 1586, he
was, at the river Annock, waylaid and shot by David
Cunningham of Robertland, and other Cunninghams,
the emissaries of the Earl of Glencairn. the descendant
of Lord Kilmaurs. Though this atrocious act of as-
sassination created a strong sensation throughout the
country, and was afterwards partly punished by Ro-
bert, the master of Eglinton, it was at length, under
the feeble and capricious administration of the pe-
dant, James VI. , formally pardoned. So late as twenty
years after this event, on the 1st of July, 1606, the
old feud broke out in a violent tumult at Perth, un-
der the very eyes of parliament and the privy-coun-
cil. In the 18th century, all the valuable improve-
ments in gardening, planting, and agriculture, which,
during half-a-century, were made in the parish of Kil-
winning, and throughout a great part of Ayrshire,
proceeded, in a great measure, from the spirited exer-
tions, combined with the fine taste of Alexander, Earl
of Eglinton. Nor was his successor in the peerage less
distinguished for his magnificent and costly, though
considerably unsuccessful, schemes to enrich the dis-
trict of Cunningham, and advance the public weal of
Scotland, by improving the harbour of Ardrossan, and
cutting a canal to it from the city of Glasgow : see
Ardrossan. Happy would it be for themselves,
their posterity, and the population of the territories
in which their estates are situated, if persons of rank
and fortune copied the example of this munificent
and patriotic nobleman. But something different
must be said respecting the enormous expenditure,
at Eglinton castle, in the month of August, 1839,
upon a gorgeous pageant, in imitation of the tourna-
ment of the Middle ages, — a "passage of arms," as
a tilt with wooden poles smoothly rounded at the end,
over lists carefully strewn with saw dust five inches
deep, yielding soft repose to unhorsed knights,
was somewhat facetiously termed Susanna, the
third wife of Alexander, the ninth Earl of Eglinton,
and daughter of Sir Archibald Kennedy of Culzean,
is celebrated for her personal beauty, and for her
transmission of a nobleness of mien, distinguished at
the period as " the Eglinton air," to a family of one
son and seven daughters.
EGLISHAY. See Eagleshay.
EIGG, or Egg, one of the Western isles, attached
to the county of Inverness, and one of the cluster
which composes the parish of Small Isles. It is 6i
miles in length, and from 2 to 3 in breadth ; and is
about 8 miles west of Arisaig, the nearest part of
the mainland. It is partly flat, and partly hilly and
rocky, having a small valley running through it.
The low grounds are tolerably productive. The
superficial area is 5,580 Scots acres, whereof 935 are
arable ; and the gross rental, in 1826, was .£650.
Basaltic pillars here and there appear over the whole
island ; along the coast, the rocks are chiefly of a
light honey-comb lava, having a great resemblance
to other volcanic productions. Seure Eigg, accord-
ing to Mr. Jameson, is the highest part of the island.
This hill, from its peculiar shape, has at a distance a
singular appearance ; but, as we approach nearer, it
rises in grandeur, and at length, a stupendous colum-
nar promontory bursts on our view. The whole of
this promontory is perfectly mural, extends for up-
wards of 1^ mile, and rises to the height of 1,340
feet. It is entirely columnar, and the columns rise
in successive ranges until they reach the summit,
where, from their great height, they appear diminu-
tive. Staffa, the most magnificent assemblage of
natural columns that has yet been discovered, is the
only one that can bear a comparison with Scure Eigg.
On the south coast of Eigg, there is a small island,
called Eilan-Chastel, on which a few persons, tend-
ing cattle, live during part of the summer months.
The sound between this island and Eigg makes a
tolerable harbour for vessels not exceeding 70 tons.
The air is generally moist, and the weather rainy :
the climate, however, is healthy. The language
principally spoken and universally understood is
Gaelic, and from it the names of places seem mostly
to be derived. There are various Danish forts ; and,
on the farm of Kill-Donnain, near an old Popish
chapel, is a barrow which is said to be the burial-
place of Donnan, the tutelary saint of Eigg. The
population, in 1801, was 500, and continues station-
ary; about one-half are Roman Catholics. The
minister of Small Isles has his manse on this island,
which is ecclesiastically in the presbytery of Skye,
and synod of Glenelg.
EIL (Loch), the upper part of an inlet from the
sea, on the borders of Argyle and Inverness-shire,
which, nearer the ocean, is known by the name of
Loch Linnhe. Near its head is the house of Loch
Eil, the residence of the chief of the family of Cam-
eron. At the point where the loch turns northward,
and changes its name from Linnhe to Eil, stands
Fort -William and the village of Maryburgh.
EILDON HILLS, a brief mountain-range of threa
conical summits, in the parish of Melrose, Roxburgh-
shire. The central summit rises, according to some,
1,330 feet, and according to Sir John Leslie, 1,364
feet above the level of the sea, and is celebrated foi
the opulence of the scenery which it overlooks; and
the north-eastern summit, scarcely less elevated, and
•commanding a minute view of the rich beauties at its
EIS
491
ELD
base, and a full view of most of the landscape seen
from the loftier summit, is famous for its monuments
of antiquity. From the north only these summits —
each more important than the third— are visible ;
and, as seen from that quarter, they possess a lovely
outline, and exquisite proportions, towering aloft on
a base of irregular but generally rapid acclivity from
the banks of the Tweed, and forming a magnificent
back- ground to a picture full of minute and various
beauties. Seen from the south, all the summits are
in view, but heathy and bleak in their appearance,
and serving as a foil to the luxuriance and the bril-
liant displays of the surrounding country. Looking
down from the Eildons, an observer sees at his feet
the fine abbey of Melrose peering out from among
trees, and the joyous movements of the Tweed, wind-
ingly prolonging its stay among villas and clusters of
plantation and verdant slopes and all the varieties
of a gay river's adornments of holiday dress ; lifting
his eye higher, he surveys a sea of hills, wearing the
uniform hue of pastoral wildness, till they terminate
in the distant ranges of Lammermoor and the Yarrow
braes ; and, turning slowly southward, he observes
minutely the attractions of Cowdenknows and the
lands of Dryburgh, and sees all Teviotdale and the
Merse — rich in scenery as in song — hung out before
him like a panorama, till the horizon is hemmed in
by the long blue line of the hazily seen Cheviots.
On the side of the Eildons is an artificial tumulus,
called the Bourgo, of great extent, and currently be-
lieved to have been the scene of Druidical orgies.
On the north-eastern summit are vestiges of a Ro-
man camp, fortified with two fosses and earthen
mounds more than 1£ mile in circuit; and having a
level space near the "centre, where was the preto-
rium, or general's quarters. The camp included
springs of good water, and an ample supply of
wood for fire; and — affording abundant space for
man, beast, and baggage, and lifting the eye away to
even a very distant view of any enemy — it had all
the properties of a well-chosen station — Mr. Kemp,
the intelligent manager of the gas-works in Gala-
shiels, has discovered appearances on the Eildon hills
of the same kind as the famous parallel roads of Glen
Roy. There are no fewer than sixteen distinctly
traceable terraces running round these hills, and rising
one above another like the steps of a stair.
EISDALE. See Easdale.
ELCHIES, an ancient vicarage, now compre-
hended in the parish of Knockando : which see.
It is 11 miles south by west of Fochabers.
ELCHO-CASTLE. See Rhynd.
ELDERSLIE, a village in the Abbey parish of
Paisley, Renfrewshire, about 2 miles westward from
the cross of that town. The inhabitants are chiefly
weavers, cotton-spinners, and workmen at the neigh-
bouring coal-pits and quarries. As the village is
intersected by the high-road leading from Paisley
westward, and as the canal from Glasgow to John-
stone, and the railway from Glasgow to Ayrshire,
both pass close to it, it enjoys great facilities for
commercial intercourse. There is a copious supply
of excellent spring water, especially from the Bore,
a spring so called from its water having come in con-
tact with a shaft which was put down about the
beginning of this century, when boring for coal.
Population, in 1831, 1,099 A neat church, con-
nected with the Establishment, was erected here in
1840 ; it contains 800 sittings.
Mr. Ramsay, in his Notices of Renfrewshire, says :
" The place called Elderslie, also written Ellerslie,
has been rendered classical by its association with
the name of the renowned Sir William Wallace; —
" At Wallace' name what Scottish blood
But boils up in a spring-lide Ilijod.'
Aft have our fearless fathers strode
By Wallace1 side,
Still pressing onward red-wat-shod.
Or glorious died."
Near the west end of the village, and close to the
north side of the turnpike-road which passes through
it, stand the shattered remains of the celebrated
tree, called ' Wallace's Oak,' among the branches of
which, when in full leaf, tradition affirms that our
great patriot-hero concealed himself from the Eng-
lish. In transmitting this tradition, the popular
voice, ever prone to exaggerate, has magnified it so
much as to assert that the branches afforded shelter,
not only to Wallace, but also to 300 of his followers.
The modified form of the narrative is surely sufficient
to induce every true Scotsman to contemplate this
' monumental oak' with reverence. In the year 1825
the trunk measured 21 feet in circumference at the
ground, and 13 feet 2 inches at 5 feet from the ground.
It was 67 feet high, and the branches extended 45
feet east, 36 west, 30 south, and 25 north, covering
altogether a space of 19 English poles. Since that
time the dimensions of the tree have been much
diminished, partly through natural decay, but chiefly
by the cutting-olf of portions, which are preserved
in many a form as mementos of the indomitable sup-
porter of his country's independence The barony
of Elderslie belonged to Sir Malcolm Wallace, and
here, as is generally believed, his heroic son first saw
the light. Near the oak-tree, but on the south side
of the road, a plain building of rather ancient appear-
ance is pointed out as the very house in which Wal-
lace was born ; but the architecture and the condi-
tion of this edifice show that it must be referred to
an era much more recent than that in which he flour-
ished. Any mansion which then existed at this place
must have decayed, or been destroyed, in the course
of the five centuries which have since rolled away.
Adjoining the house just noticed is an old garden,
from the foundations of the walls of which there was
dug, about 30 years ago, a stone bearing the follow-
ing inscription, cut in Roman letters : ' W. W. W.
Christ is only my Redeemer.' These initials
probably indicate two proprietors of Elderslie,
William Wallace, father and son, who lived in the
16th century. ... In the garden there
is to be seen a fine and very old specimen of the
Scottish yew. The name of ' Wallace's Yew ' has
been assigned to it, probably for no other reason
than because it stands at a spot hallowed by his
name Elderslie remained for nearly five centuries,
after Wallace's time, in the possession of various
branches of the family from which he was descended.
In 1729 it fell to an heiress, Helen Wallace, only
child of John Wallace of Elderslie, and wife of Archi-
bald Campbell of Succoth. The late Sir Hay Camp-
bell, Bart., Lord-president of the court of session,
was one of the children of this marriage. In 1769-
Mrs. Campbell sold the estate to the grandfather of
the present proprietor, Alexander Speirs, Esq A
large straggling village now occupies the grounds of
Elderslie. It shows the thriving state of our manu-
factures, but it degrades this interesting spot, and
tends to repress the enthusiasm with which, from its
connexion with the history of the illustrious Scottish
champion, it would otherwise be contemplated."
Elderslie house, the seat of Mr. Speirs, is situated
upon the left bank of the Clyde, adjacent to the
burgh of Renfrew, at the distance of 5i miles from
the village of Elderslie. It was built in 1777-82 by
his grandfather, who, in 1760, had purchased the
ground on which it stands, and who gave it the name
of the estate from which he took his designation.
Elderslie house has, since that time, been enlarged
and improved. It fronts to the south, and is sur-
rounded by a fine park.
492
ELGIN.
ELGAR, one of the Orkneys; constituting part
of the parish of Shapinsay. It lies about a furlong
to the south of Shapinsay, and is separated from it
by a reef of rocks that are almost dry at low water.
ELGIN,* a parish in the county of Moray or Elgin,
bounded on the north by Spynie ; on the east by St.
Andrew's Lanbride ; on the south by Birnie ; and on
the west by Alves. It is of irregular form, but ex-
tends about 10 miles in length, and 6 in breadth ;
its superficial contents have been estimated at about
18 square miles. Houses 1,116. Assessed pro-
perty, in 1815, .£7,186. Population, including the
burgh of Elgin, in 1801, 4,345 ; in 1831, 6,130. The
surface of this parish is flat. The vales of Moss-
towie and Pluscardine are separated by a steep hilly
ridge ; and the district rises gently from the vicinity
of the town towards the Black-hills, the summits of
which terminate its southern extent. The only river
of any importance is the Lossie, to which a tributary
stream runs northwards from the Black-hills. The
Lossie flows slowly through the level lands also north-
wards, partly through the parish, but dividing it from
Spynie on the north before it falls into the Moray frith
at Lossie mouth. This river frequently overflows
even its artificial banks. In 1829 the ' Morayshire
floods,' so graphically described by Sir Thomas Dick
Lauder, committed great havoc here. In the back
parts of the parish the soil is chiefly light and sandy
clay with calcareous particles ; but many places, par-
ticularly on the river banks, are of a rich loam and
clay, exceedingly fertile, and yielding excellent crops.
Great part of the parish is uniler cultivation. Even
in remote times tillage seems to have been attended
to in this part of Scotland, and indeed considerably
advanced, as the scattered facts collected from among
the less useful and important records of political and
military history by the writer of the Old Statistical
Account of this parish sufficiently evince. About
3,000 acres, however, are still waste, or in pasture.
Thriving plantations now cover much of the old
wastes. Some of these are extensive, while others
consist of scattered belts and clumps of various foli-
age, which add greatly to the beauty of the land-
scape. The secluded glen, at the west end of the
parish, in which the fine ruins of Pluscardine abbey
stand, has been so judiciously wooded that the in-
terest and romantic beauty of the scene are greatly
enhanced : see article Pluscardine Abbey. The
property now belongs to the Earl of Fife, who is one
of the principal proprietors in this parish. The chief
mineral product of this parish is a bed of secondary
limestone, tinged of a dark colour by the oxide of iron.
It is used as manure, and for mortar. It runs from
the southern vicinity of the town eastward as far as
the Moray frith. The hilly ridge between Mosstowie
- and Pluscardine consists of strata of a peculiar hard
and pale-coloured sandstone, which is considered
superior to all others found in Scotland, except, per-
haps, that of Craigleith, near Edinburgh. In 1826 a
considerable quantity was exported to London for
the building of the new London bridge. The old
red sandstone also appears in this district. f — The
_ * The name of Elgin is generally supposed to have been de.
rived from Hetgy, a general of the army of Sigurd the Nor-
wegian Earl of Orkney, who, about 927, conquered Caithness,
Krjss, Sutherland, and Moray, and probably made a settlement
at Elgin, which is so ancient as to have been a town of some
note, and a favourite and usna'l royal residence, even before it
became the Episcopal see of the diocese. As the word Helgyn
is still ussd in the inscription on the corporation seal, it is pro.
bable that this etymology is correct.
+ While preparing this article [November 1840] we have
beeu informed that a cave, full of curious and instructive re-
mains, lias been discovered in the old red sandstone at Hope,
man, near Elgin, during the process of quarrying in that vicin-
ity. An eminent geologist, Mr. P. Duff, has furnished the
following description of this geological treasure : — " A con-
siderable part of the cave had been quarried away before its
interest was suspected, nor until considerable quantities of |
parish is in the presbytery and synod of Moray or
Elgin. Patron, the Crown. The charge is collegiate.
Stipend of both charges £240 7s. 6d. ; glebe of each
valued at £17. Unappropriated teiiids £52 lis. 6d.
— Schoolmaster's salary about £50, with fees and
other emoluments of about £45 per annum. The
school is attended by about 160 children, and entered
in the returns as parochial, but strictly speaking i9
not so, but is an academy consisting of 4 schools, and
conducted by 6 teachers. There are 16 other schools
in the parish, attended by about 580 children. About
200 receive gratuitous instruction.
Elgin, a royal burgh in the above parish, the
capital town of the county of Moray or Elgin, once
an important episcopal city, the see and cathedral
seat of the great bishopric of Moray, is situated 144
miles north of Edinburgh ; 63J north-west of Aber-
deen; 12 east of Forres ; 9 west of Fochabers ; and
5 south of Lossiemouth, its sea-port. It extends
for nearly a mile in length, along the southern bank
of the river Lossie, in the midst of scenery so beau-
tiful and foliage so luxuriant that the inhabitants
delight, and justly so, in claiming, for the environs
of their ancient city, the distinguished appellation of
" the Garden of Scotland." Of all the Scottish
towns, Elgin bears the strongest resemblance to St.
Andrews. Doubtless this must be attributed to the
circumstance of its having once been, like that ven-
erable metropolis, the important and wealthy seat of
a see ; the respectable,— nay, in the less fastidious,
though quite as stately, eyes of ages that are past, —
the sumptuous, and luxurious residence of a numer-
ous corps of dignified Papistical, and quite as digni-
fied Episcopal ecclesiastics, and of affluent provincial
gentry, drawn together here as to a common centre
of attraction. Many of their houses are still pointed
out:
" Bright towerB of warlike chiefs around appear,
The lowly roof and noble dome are here.
Sweet is the scene : yet, Scotia, turn thine eyes
And weep, for lo! thy church a ruin lies."$
although, like those of a similar stamp in Edinburgh
and elsewhere, ancient mansion-houses here were
long since ' handed down ' to artizans and others in
the lower ranks of life; and though it may be said,
not only that a new town has sprung up, but that
the o'd indeed has, in a measure, ' cast its skin,' and
now become completely renovated; nevertheless the
period is by no means yet remote, when Elgin wore
the antiquated, still, and venerable aspect which so
well befits and harmonizes with the meditative
bones had been exposed. It would appear, from die quantity
of calcined wood and burnt stones which strewed the outer
entrance, that the cave had been used by man as a shelter, in
which the proceBs of cooking had gone on ; subsequently it had
been taken possession of by foxes, or other predaceous animals,
which had hoarded the bones now found of deer, dogs, hares,
rabbits, seals, birds, and fishes ; but the most interesting feature
of the cave is, that it proves by its contents, the uphearement
of an ancient sea-beach, with its rolled pebbles, sea-sand, and
shells, lying undisturbed, and above them a mass of brown
mould evidently derived from the decomposition of animal
matter. Many of the shells — such as the turbo and patella — may
have been carried there for food; but the sand, besides being
nearly half made up of fragments uf shells, contains many en-
tire specimens of minute shells which could not have been
brought thither for any economical purpose, either by man or
animals. Here, then, we have a portion of the sea-shore or
beach elevated from seventeen to twenty feet above high water-
mark, with its sand, shells, and pebbles lying undisturbed, as
they are seen lying and undisturbed on the beach which is every
day washed by the ocean waves.'1
| Arcibu6 heroum nitidis urbs cingitur, intus
Flebei radiant, nobiliumque lares';
Omnia delectant ; veteris sed rudera templi,
Duiii spectas, lachrymis Scotia tinge genas.
Joknstoni Poemat.
Transcribed from * Sketches of Moray,' edited by William
Rhiud, Esq., aud illustrated by D. Alexander, Esq., 1 vol.
8vo., 1839. Amongst other authorities, we are indebted to
these spirited aud faithful 'Sketches' in the compilation of a
part of this article, and to them we recommend our readers fur
general reference, and for much graphical and interesting in-
formation on the antiquities of Moray.
ELGIN.
493
habits and repose of genuine ecclesiastics, in the full
enjoyment of an intellectual ' otium cum dignitate.'
The houses of the long main street of Elgin, as
it then existed, were of venerable age, with high-
crowned roofs, overlaid with heavy slabs of priestly
gray ; presenting, to the street, like those — we may
now almost also say of old — in Dysart, Edinburgh,
and other towns, the portly fore-stair, and a double
range of the more distinguished open piazza, consist-
ing of a series of pillared arches in the front wall,
over the entrance to a paved and sheltered court
within, in which, as well as in his humbler small
dark shop or cellar, was the ancient 'merchant'
wont, at times, with carelessness, but with complete
security, to leave his goods, and walk unceremoni-
ously off, — his "half-door on the bar," — to break-
fast, dinner, or his evening stroll. But few of these
piazzas now exist, and some that do, are either built
entirely up, or otherwise converted into shops of
modern style. Of those which still retain them
open, with a railing, Elchies-house is one. Diverg-
ing from the main street, the essential form of which
— as widened in the centre of the town, to compre-
hend 'the Muckle kirk,' 'the Little kirk,' its ad-
junct, and the Town-house, or Tolbooth, — is still
the same, though much improved in length and
breadth as well as substance, numerous lanes and
closes, flanked by houses of inferior grade, stretched
off, rectangularly, as they still do, like the ribs from
a spinal ridge. The dates of their erection, and the
names of their proprietors, were usually inscribed
upon the lintels of these ancient domiciles, with
here and there a holy benediction. The pave-
ment of the high or main street was an ancient
causeway, which tradition modestly reports to have
been the work of no more ancient hands than those
of Cromwell's soldiers ; though, most Ukely, it was
many ages older. It rose high in the middle; and
' the crown of the causeway,' where the higher-
minded folks delighted to parade, was elevated and
distinguished by a row of huge stone blocks, while
those of a more moderate calibre occupied the slop-
ing sides. The drains which ran along the street
were crossed, rectangularly, by the common gutter,
which, in heavy rains, was often swelled into a
mighty torrent. The street had no side-pavements,
till Lord Fife, aided by the citizens, and the road-
trustees, introduced them in 1821 .
St. Giles's, or ' the Muckle kirk,' has now no
local habitation. It was razed, in 1826, to make
way for the present splendid substitute. The period
when the original St. Giles was built is not on re-
cord. It was very ancient, and is early mentioned as
a parsonage. In the high and palmy days of the cathe-
dral's glory, it was in the bishop's pastoral charge.
It stood upon two rows of massive pillars, spread-
ing into pointed Gothic arches, with a vaulted roof,
weighed down by heavy hewn stone, instead of slate.
In 1679, on Sunday, 22d June, and, providentially,
in the interval between the services, the roof fell in,
and, except the arched tower in the centre, and the
pillars at the sides, the total fabric was destroyed.
In 1684, it was rebuilt, when two long aisles were
added, on each side, to the original form of the
church. The Little kirk, where service was per-
formed on week days, was appended to the middle
tower, upon its eastern side, but was demolished
half-a-century ago. Although the interior of the
Muckle kirk, with its rows of massive sandstone pil-
lars running along its aisles, and terminating upwards
in the high peaked arches which upheld its vaulted
roof, possessed a dignity and grandeur of no common
order, heightened and enhanced as was the tout
ensemble by its richly carved and massive oaken
pulpit, galleries, and seats, the exterior was by no
means rich in architectural display — presenting no-
thing worthy of record, indeed, except the lofty
pointed gable of its western aspect, which was oc-
cupied by a large and fine Venetian three-arched
window; and the central, Gothic, grand front en-
trance from the paved square called the Plainstones.
The central tower was a square and heavy mass
without a steeple. It possessed a curious old fash-
ioned clock, however, and a bell whose long familiar
tones were held in veneration by the natives, as in-
deed was every thing connected with the Muckle
kirk:* — so much that its demolition caused a general
feeling of deep regret, if not dismay, amongst them,
which the unequivocal symptoms of decay, and the
impending probability of other dangers such as those
of 1679, did little to diminish.
" The Tolbooth, biggit wt stanes frae ye kirk-
yard dyke, and sclaited wt stanes frae Dolass," in
the year 1605, is now, like 'the kirk-yard dyke'
itself, amongst the things that were. It stood in
the middle of the market-place, and consisted of the
court-house, and the jail, a square uncomely tower,
which terminated in a short spired roof. A new
and elegant court-house having been erected, it was
doomed, in 1840, no longer to incumber the ground ;
and immediately behind the court-house a new pri-
son, Containing 15 separate apartments, is about to
be erected at an expense of about £1,500, to be de-
frayed by the county of Moray, the town or city of
Elgin, and the town of Forres. [See 2d Report of
the General Board of Directors of Prisons in Scot-
land. Appendix, p. 100.] — ' The Muckle cross'
stood also in the market-place, but was many years
ago removed. ' The Little cross' still stands entire
near the entrance to Grant-lodge, — Lord Seafield's
house, — and opposite an old piazzaed mansion. Here
it probably marked the old burgh-boundary on the
east. The burgh, it is thought, was once surrounded
by a wall: at all events there were two entrances
or gateways to the town, one called the East port,
and another called the West.
On the flattened summit of the Lady-hill, a mount
with conical and precipitate slopes, north-west of
the High-street, there was anciently a royal fort
erected so early as the reign of William the Lion,
for protection to the town, which probably then
crept close around it. Ruins of the castle-walls, of
extraordinary thickness, are still visible : they seem
* " The bells," Bays a writer in the Forres Gazette, " did
not escape the general reformation, f They had been, indeed,
great transgressors. For centuries they had summoned the
people to the idolatrous sacrifices of the mass, and were thereby
polluted; and it was necessary that they should undergo a pro-
cess of purification. Accordingly, two or more of them were
sent to Turriff in lf>89, to be recast into one solid, sound Pres-
byterian bell. This new bell was hung in the kirk-steeple,
where it continued till 1713, when it was rent by a woman
striking it violently with a heavy key, for the purpose of arous-
ing the inhabitants to quench a fire which had broken out
in the town during the night. It was again recast, August
17th, 1713, at the head of Bailie Forsyth's close, by Albert
Gely, founder in Aberdeen, the expenses being again defrayed
by the town. It is said that numbers of the rich inhabitants of
Elgin repaired to the fouoding-place, and cast iu guineas,
crowns, half-crowns, and the poorer people shillings and six-
pences, during the time the metal was melting, which contri-
buted, in no small degree, to enrich its sound as well as its
substance. It was again elevated to its former place, in the
kirk-steeple ; and used on all solemn and joyful occasions, till
it fell a victim to excessive loyalty; — the boys bavins' over-
rung and rent it on the king's birth-day, June 4th, 1785. It
was taken down, and refounded at London, on the 17th Octo-
ber following, having the names of the then magistrates cast
on its body: the charges were of course defrayed by the town.
This is the history of ' the Big bell ' for a period of 250 years."
t It would appear tbat the ' Prayer bell,' commonly called the minister's
bell, has come scathless through this trying time. The inscription around it,
* Thomas de Dunbar me fecit, 1402,' tells that it is an ancient,— the only relic
(save and except the Ronald bell of Btrnie) of the former dispensation. This
venerable piece of metal was given to the town of Elgin, by the Earl of Mo
ray, 435 years ago. It has, with equal fidelity, lifted its sonorous voice ir
behalf of papists, presbyterians, and episcopalians; and has rejoiced at tbs,
success of royalists and round'heads, whigs and lories, as well as sounded
forth the requiem of eighteen sovereigns, during that period.
494
ELGIN.
to have been grouted or cemented into one bard
mass, as durable as rock, with hot run lime. As
the warlike spirit of the age subsided, Elgin castle
fell into decay, but legends of the nursery give
other causes for its disappearance. These assure us
that the inmates were afflicted with the plague or
pest,* and that, hac causa, we presume, —
" the castle in a single night,
With all its inmates, sunk quite out of sight.
There, at the midnight hour, is heard the sound
Of various voices talking under ground ,
The rock of cradles, — wailing infants' cries,
And nurses singing soothing lullabies."
A place is now occupied beside the castle by a
monumental pillar to the memory of the late Duke
of Gordon, the funds for which were raised by a
county subscription.
In the hollow ground to the eastward of that ven-
erable and most splendid of the Scottish churches,
the cathedral of Elgin, stands a pool, which is tra-
ditionally believed, by every Elgin school-boy, to
be of unfathomable depth. It is called ' the Order
pot,' — most probably a name corrupted from 'the
Ordeal pot,' a place where witches underwent their
ordeal by water, or were made to ' choose their
horn ' of the rather grave dilemma into which our
fathers, in the plenitude of a sagacity profound and
deep as the Order pot itself, beguiled ' the devil's
bairns ' by the simple practical alternative of — ' sink
or swim.' So late as 1560, witches were publicly
and legally punished in the burgh of Elgin. f There
are no authentic records of the Ordeal pot, how-
ever;{ but there is an ancient prophecy, believed to
* That the plague raged in Elgin about the middle of the
Ifith century, evidence is produced by Mr. Rhind in the follow-
ing extract from the burgh-records. " Item, 18s. for an quart
ol wyne and bread, and an glass giffen to ye bailzies of Forres
at ye eist port ye time of ye infectiouue of ye pest."
+ " The comptar, viz. Andrew Eiie, discharges him of 40s.
debursed be him at ye town's command, for the binners to ye
wyffis yat war wardit in ye stepill for witches in summer last
by-past. "—Burgh Records.
X The following extract, transcribed from an old MS. by
Mr. Rhind, though unauthenticated, may be interesting, as
alluding to the Order pot. The good and enlightened ' Maister
Wyseman,' the ' clerk,' in the legend, does look a little apocry-
phal, but for certain reasons, ex facie, we think it probable that
this is only J a curious coincidence :' — the tale itself is told with
graphic,touching, and peculiar,felicity : —
" The whilk day ane great multitude, rushinge 'thorough the
Pannis-port, surroundit ye pool, and hither wis draggit. tho-
rough ye stoure, ye said Marjory Bysseth, in sore plight, vvid
her grey hairis hanging loose, and crying ' Pitie ! pitie ." — Now
Maister Wyseman, the samin clerk who had stode up at her
tryal, stepped forward, and said : ' I kno thys womyan to have
been ane peaeable and unoffendynge ane, living in ye privacy
of her widowhnode, and skaithing orgainsayingno ane. — Quhat
have ye furthir to say again her ?' — Then thir was gret mur-
rouryng and displeausance among ye peopel, but Maister Wyse-
man stauuding firm, agen asked, — ' Quhat have ye furthir to say
again her ?'— Then did ye Friares agen repeate, how that she
had muttered her aves backward, and othirs that the maukin,
started at Bareflet, had ben traced to her dwellinge, and how
that the aforesaid cattel had died by her connivance. Bot she
hearing this, cried the more, ' Pitie 1 pitie ! I am guiltlesse of
ye fause crymes, never eae much as thought of be me.' Then
suddenlie there was ane motion in ye crowd, and ye peopel
parting on ilk syde, aue leper cam douu frae ye huus, and in
ye face of ye peopel bared lira hand and his hale airro, ye which
was wythered, and covered over with scurfs, most pyteous to
behold; and he said, ' At ye day of Pentecost last past, thys
womyan did give unto me ane shell of oyntraent, with ye which
I anoynted my hand, to cure ane imposthume, which had com
over it, and beholde, from that day furthe, untyll thys, it hath
shrunke, and wythered, as you see it now.' Whereupon ye
croud closed rotinde, and becam clamorous ; but ye said Mar-
jory Bysseth cried pyteously, that God had forsaken her — that
she had meanyed gude only, and not evil— that the oyntment
was ane gift of her husband, who had been beyond seas, and
that it was ane gift to him trom ane holy man and true, and
that she had given it free of reward or hyre, wishing only that
it mote be of gudej but that gif gude was to be payed backe
with evil, sorrow and gif Sathan mot not have his owin.
Whereupon the people did presse roun', and became clamor-
ous, and they take ye womyan, and drag her, amid mony tears
and cryes, to ye pool, and crie, 'To tryalt to tryal!' and sae
they plonge her in ye water. And quhen, as she went doun
in ye water, ther was aue gret shout ; bot as Bhe rose again,
aod raised up her amies, as gif ehe wode have come up, there
ivm oilence for ane space, when agane she weut doune with
be one of that worthy old orthodox seer, Tbomas-
the-Rhymer that —
" The Order Pot and I.ossie gray
Shall sweep the Chan'ry kirk away;" —
and, at all events, it requires no seer's eye to per-
ceive that some peculiar and mysterious subterrane-
ous communication must exist between the Order
pot and the Lossie; for, "whenever the Lossie is
swelled by unusual floods, it makes for its old haunt,"
the Order pot, — a phenomenon which has led to the
natural supposition that the channel of the Lossie —
which is known to have deviated in this vicinity —
must have passed, at an era more or less remote,
through the Order pot.
Amongst other and more important features yet
to be described, of the ancient state and consequence
of Elgin, as a city, is Thunder-house, the ancient
town-house of the family of Sutherland of Duffus.
In its pristine grandeur, it consisted of a great impos-
ing edifice, adorned with a tower and bartizan, the
top of which was skirted by a curiously chiseled balus-
trade. This house fell ultimately into the possession
of a jocular auctioneer, named Batchen, who, when
questioned as to what he meant to make of ' the Muckle
house,' dryly assured his inquisitive friends that he
"meant to make a kirk and a mill of it," — a joke, the
point and edge of which they came to see, when John
had let the great hall as a chapel, and had fitted up
a windmill in the bartizan. The property has since
been sold in building-lots; and a neat Congregational
chapel was built upon a part of the site in 1821.
In the train of the Roman Catholic establishment
were numerous institutions and religious houses, —
Friars " black and gray," knights of St. John, with
wandering monks, innumerable. The ruins of a cha-
pel, and a portion of the convent walls, once occupied
by a brotherhood of the Grey friars, and endowed
by Alexander II., may be still seen, near the Elgin
institution, at the east end of the town. The Elgin
institution was itself erected on the site of ' the
House of God,' — ' Maison Dieu,' — a kindred institu-
tion, founded in the 13th century, and largely en-
dowed, by Bishop Andrew Moray, for reception ot
poor men and women. It was burnt by ' the Wolfe
of Badenoch,' — of whom hereafter. The extensive
revenues of this establishment were given to the
magistrates for special purposes, in 1620, by King
James ; but from the funds some Beadsmen are
supported still, in houses near the site of the original
establishment. A Leper-house stood also in the
neighbourhood, some crofts still passing by the name
of ' Leper lauds.' This place was for reception of
those labouring under leprosy, a very prevalent dis-
ease in Scotland in the Middle ages, but now utterly
extinct in Britain. It is the house alluded to in
the curious legend of the withering of the arm by
witchcraft previously transcribed.. — Upon the ground
called Black-friar's-haugh, between the Lossie and
the North-back-street, and at the point from whence
the river is supposed to deviate from its ancient
course, was formerly a Black-friar's monastery. No
vestige of it now remains. A turretted edifice, oc-
cupied, in 1840, as a library, is said to have been
inhabited by Templars. In the front of it are
escutcheons of the family of Rothes.
The cathedral, the seat of the see of Moray, in
the days of its perfection, was no less the chief glory
of Elgin than it was the boast of Moray : — nay,
Bishop Barr characterized the original edifice not
only as the chief ornament of the district, but " the
glory of the kingdom, and the admiration both of
foreigners and natives." " It is an allowed fact,
which the ruins seem still to attest," says Chambers
ane bublinge noise, they shouted linallie. • To Sathao's kyng-
dome 8he hath gone,' and forthwith went their wa'yos."
ELGIN.
495
in liis ' Picture of Scotland,' " that this was by far
the most splendid specimen of ecclesiastical architec-
ture in Scotland, the abbey-church of Melrose not
excepted. It must be acknowledged that the edifice
i last mentioned is a wonderful instance of symmetry
and elaborate decoration ; yet, in extent, in loftiness,
in impressive magnificence, and even in minute deco-
ration, Elgin has manifestly been superior. Enough
still remains to impress the solitary traveller with
a sense of admiration mixed with astonishment."
Shaw, in his description of it, even ventures to as-
sert, that this " church, when entire, was a building
of Gothic architecture inferior to few in Europe."
" The prevailing impulse of the religion of the
period," observes Mr. Rhind, " led its zealous fol-
lowers to concentrate their whole energies in the
erection of such magnificent structures; and while
there was little skill or industry manifested in the
common arts of life, and no associations for promot-
ing the temporal comforts of the people, the grand
conceptions displayed in the architecture of the
Middle ages, the taste and persevering industry and
the amount of wealth and labour bestowed on those
sacred edifices, find no parallel in modern times."
When entire, then, and in its pristine glory, this
magnificent temple must have afforded a splendid
spectacle. A vast dome, extending from the western
entrance to the high altar, a length of 289 feet, with
its richly ornamented arches crossing and recrossing
each other to lean for support on the double rows
of stately massive pillars — the mellowed light stream-
ing in at the gorgeous windows above, and flickering
below amid the deep and dark shades of the pointed
aisles, while the tapers of the lit up altars twinkled
through the rolling clouds of incense — the paintings
on the walls — the solemn tones of the chaunted mass
— the rich modulated music of the choir — and the
gorgeous dresses and imposing ceremonies and pro-
cessions of a priesthood sedulous of every adjunct to
dazzle and elevate the fancy, — must have deeply
impressed with awe and veneration, a people in a
remote region, in a semi-barbarous age, and with
nothing around them, or even in their uninformed
imaginations, in the slightest degree to compare with
such splendour. No wonder that the people wTere
proud of such a structure, or that the clergy became
attached to it ! It was a fit scene for a Latin author
of the period, writing on the " tranquillity of the
soul," to select, for his ' Temple of Peace,' and under
its walls to lay the scene of his philosophical dia-
logues.'
This great religious foundation owes its origin to
Bishop Andrew Moray, who is Raid to have founded
it on the site of an old church in the year 1224.
But after standing 166 years, the original fabric was
destroyed, in June 1390, by the lord of Badenoch,
Alexander Stuart, son of Robert II., usually called
the Wolf of Badenoch. From resentment against
the bishop, Alexander Barr, who had excommuni-
cated him, for keeping violent possession of church
property, this ferocious incendiary burnt the city,
'Maison I)ieu, the parish-church, and another edifice
devoted to religion, with IS houses of the canons,
besides the cathedral itself. His only punishment
was doing penance in the Black friars' church at
Perth, before the altar. Bishop Barr began soon
after to rebuild it, but many painful years were spent,
together with a third of all the revenues of the
bishops, ere that one dark day's disaster was re-
paired; and even after its completion, in 1506, the
great central tower fell down. This new misfortune
was also remedied,, however; and, from 1538, the
fabric continued in a state of perfect preservation till
the Reformation, ten years after which, in 1568, the
* Volusenus, Scotu3. De Tranquillitate.
privy-council actually had the execrable meanness to
appoint the Earl of Huntly, sheriff of Aberdeen and
Elgin, with some others, " to take the lead from the
cathedral-churches of Aberdeen and Elgin, and sell
the same " for the maintenance of Regent Murray's
soldiers ! The displeasure of Providence itself
seemed to be manifested at the base deed done by
these ultra-Goths, for so base a purpose ; for the
vessel freighted with the metal had scarcely left the
harbour of Aberdeen, on her way to Holland, where
the sacrilegious plunder was to be sold, than she
sunk with all her infamous cargo. Since that period,
the cathedral of Elgin, unprotected from the weather,
has gradually gone to ruin and destruction. Still,
however, do its splendid ruins amply justify even
the highest estimate of its original magnificence, and
constitute the chief amid the numerous attractions
of this limited but interesting city. Government
has latterly caused much attention to be paid in
clearing out the ruins f of this and other of our Scot-
tish cathedrals, and in preventing them from falling
into complete decay: this queen of ruins is there-
fore now more than ever an object of great and im-
pressive interest.
Like all similar fabrics of its time, the cathedral
of Elgin stood due east and west, and was built in
the form of a Jerusalem or Passion cross. The
choir and altar faced the east, or head of the cross,
with the branches, transepts, or cross wings, to the
north and south, and the grand entrance through the
western extremity, or foot of the cross. The grand
tower rose from its centre. The west gate, flanked
with two massive but elegant towers, and the chapter-
house, appended to the northern cloisters, with parts
of the transepts, are all tolerably perfect; the whole
displaying workmanship of the most intricate and ex-
quisite beauty. The western towers, however, form
the most entire part of the ruin. The great gate,
between these, is ornamented with fluted pilasters,
and above it is a central window, lancet arched, 28
feet high, and originally fitted up with mullions and
tracery. The great gateway is entered by a flight
of steps, and leads to the nave, which occupied the
centre of the church, where the numerous and splen-
did Papal processions took place, while the multi-
tudes who witnessed them were present in the aisles,
at the sides, which were separated from the nave by
rows of stately pillars, rising up to support the roof:
the foundations of these alone, and a few of the
pedestals, remain. Between the nave and the choir
where the sacred rites were actually performed, stood
the walls of the great central tower, and on each side
were the transepts. The choir extends eastward to
the chancel, in the sanctum sanctorum at the head of
the cross, where stood the grand altar. The chan-
cel was separated from the choir by a screen. The
grand altar stood beneath the eastern windows, and
was lighted up by a double row of five slender
windows, with pointed arches, — the whole sur-
mounted by a large wheel window, with rich orna-
mental tracery. The choir and nave were also light-
ed by a double row of windows with pointed arches,
the lower range being the largest, while both tiers
ran along the whole extent of the church. The win-
dows were filled with richly tinted glass, in various
devices, fragments of which have been found amongst
the ruins. The authors of the ' Sketches of Moray,'
have succeeded in effecting a very beautiful restora-
+ The public, we believe, were, at first, leas indebted to
privy-councils and governments than to the zeal and good taote
of the present superintendent, John Shank, who had do sootier
succeeded to his charge, in 1825, than he setpersonally to work,
and cleared out from the ruins no less than nearly 3,000 barrnw
loads of rubbish. Numerous dilapidated ornaments, figures,
torabs, and other objects, were thus discovered, or laid open,
and additional interest and gratification thereby afforded to the
visiter.
496
ELGIN.
tion of the plan of this cathedral, whereby it appears
abundantly evident, from the consummate harmony
of effect, though mixture of Norman and Saxon styles,
displayed throughout the whole sketch, and from
the massive form, broad buttresses, and general se-
verity of architectural style in the two great western
towers themselves, that these were surmounted,
each by four small turrets, and not raised and taper-
ed into spires like the central tower, as has been er-
roneously conjectured. The spire of the central
tower, as restored in 1538, rose to the height of 198
feet, and, in the sketch alluded to, it forms a superb
and appropriate coronal ornament to the whole, the
effect of which would have been manifestly injured
by association with other spires of any magnitude
in the same edifice. The great tower fell in 1711.
The dimensions of the cathedral given in the New
Statistical Account, and which are said to be
" nearly accurate," are as follow: — " length of ca-
thedral over walls, 264 feet; breadth, 35; traverse,
114; height of centre tower, 198; eastern turrets, 60;
western towers without the spires, 84 ; side wall,
36." According to the elevation above alluded to,
however, the dimensions furnished by the architect,
Mr. Kemp, the author of the beautiful design for the
monument to Sir Walter Scott, at Edinburgh, are as
under : —
Feet
Length from east to west, including towers,
Breadth of nave and side aisles.
Breadth of choir, including walls and aisles,
Length of transept, including walls,
Height of west towers, . .
Height of east towers, .
Height of middle tower, including spire,
Height of grand entrance,
Height of chapter-house,
Breadth of do with walls,
Height of great western window, . .
Diameter of eastern wheel window, .
Height of side walls, including choristry,
Breadth of side aisles, .
144
79
120
83
64
193
2R
34
37
28
12
43
18
The chapter-house, attached to the northern clois-
ter of the cathedral, is extremely elegant. It is an
•octagon, with a pillar of elaborate workmanship in
the centre, supporting a richly groined roof. Arched
pillars from every angle terminate in the grand
pillar, which is 9 feet in circumference, crusted over
with 16 pilasters or small pillars, alternately round
and fluted. It is lighted by seven large windows,
and, in the walls, are niches, where the oaken stalls
of the dignified clergy, who formed the bishop's coun-
cil, were placed : the central one for the bishop or
dean being more elevated than the rest. This a part-
ment was richly ornamented with sculptured figures,
and it now also contains the grotesque heads and
other devices which occupied niches and capitals of
the pillars in other parts of the church.* This, like
similar choice portions of other ecclesiastical edifices
•of the Middle ages, is called, ' The Apprentice's aisle,'
being built, according to the curious but hackneyed
legend, by an apprentice in the absence of his master,
who, from envy of its excellence, had murdered him
on his return, — a legend so general [see article Ros-
lin] that probably it never did apply to any cathe-
dral in particular, but originated in the mysticisms of
those incorporations of free-masons, who, in the
Middle ages, traversed Europe furnished with papal
bulls and ample privileges to train proficients in the
theory and practice of masonry and architecture : —
indeed to such a common origin have the similarity
of plan and execution so prevalent in the gorgeous
cathedrals of the Middle ages been themselves attri-
buted.
• The Elgin pillar, a Runic obelisk, discovered iu 1823, ahout
2 feet beneath the surface, when the streets of the town were
under repair, IB now preserved in the cathedral. It is 6 feet
long, 24 broad, and 1 thick ; but it is evidently incomplete.
Surrounding the cathedral was a substantial wall,
8 feet in height, and entered by five gates. It en-
closed an area 900 yards in circumference, called the
College, and included the manses and gardens of the
dean, the prebendaries, and the other dignified mem-
bers of the chapter. A paved street ran round this
area. The only gate to the precincts now remain-
ing is the eastern, named the Water-gate, or Pann's
port, which was formerly defended by an iron port-
cullis. Near it, is a large and venerable beech, with
wide-spread branches. The college was the resi-
dence of the dean, who was rector of Auldearn. The
manse of the sub-dean still exists, but has been much
enlarged and altered. The episcopal palace is on the
south of the cathedral. In the reign of James IV.,
it became the property of Alexander Seton, Earl of
Dunfermline, and was hence named Dunfermline-
house. The Duke of Gordon subsequently pur-
chased it, but it is now in ruins. In the immediate
vicinity of the college, westward, was a small suburb
under the jurisdiction of the bishop.
The chapter consisted of 22 canons who resided
within the college. They were chosen from the
clergy of the diocese, and officiated in the cathedral:
■ — part of them constituted the council of the bishop.
Besides a manse and garden in the college, each had
a portion of land, called a prebendum, allotted to him
for his services. Hence they were also called pre-
bendaries. They enjoyed these benefits over and
above the revenues of their vicarages in the country
parishes whence they were chosen :- — these were— •
Auldearn (Dean)
Forres (Archdeacon)
Inveravon (Chancellor)
Kinnedar (Treasurer)
Alves (Chautor)
Vicar of Elgin
Kingussie
Rafford
As already observed, the dean presided in the chap-
ter during the absence of the bishop ; he also pre-
sided in synods and all church-courts, and was ancient-
ly superior over 10 canons. The archdeacon was the
visiter of the diocese and the bishop's vicar. The
chancellor was judge in the court of the bishop,
secretary to the chapter, and keeper of their seal.
The names of the chantor and treasurer also denote
their respective offices. The bishop had civil, crimin-
al, and ecclesiastical courts, and officers ; and his power
within his diocese was almost supreme. The seat of
the bishopric was originally at Spynie ; and indeed,
prior to the 13th century, the bishop transferred his
chair from one church to another as suited his con-
venience ; but, at the request of the chapter, and of
King Alexander II., it was translated to Elgin, in vir-
tue of a bull from Pope Honorius, dated 10th April,
1224. The diocese was a very extensive one. It
comprehended the whole of the present counties of
Moray and Nairn, and also part of Aberdeen, Banff,
and Inverness. The precise date of its erection into
a bishopric is not known, the early records of the
diocese having been destroyed on the burning of the
cathedral, by the Wolf of Badenoch, and the chartu-
lary going no farther back than the year 1200 ; but it is
supposed to have been about the beginning of the 11th
century, in the reign of Alexander I., previous to
which, the bishops in Scotland wore blue gowns,
with their hair tucked under a cap, and having no
particular diocese assigned them, were itinerant.
The first bishop on record was Gregory, in the end
of Alexander's reign, or the beginning of the reign of
his successor, David I. From this period till the
Revolution, the see was filled by, at least, 36 bishops,
of whom 28 were Roman Catholic prelates, and 8
Protestant. The following is a Ust of them iu sue-
Kin more
Advie
Dallas
D lift us
Inverkeitbnie
Reimie
Dipple
Spynie
Botarie
Croy
Aherlour
Muy
Dutliil
Pettie
ELGIN.
497
Gregorius.
William, Papal legate to Scot,
land— died in 1 161.
Felix— died in 1170.
Simeon de Tocny, buried at
Birnie, in 1184.
Andrew — died in 11S5.
Richard. Clericus Regis —
elected in 1187.
Bricius de Moravia, orMurreff,
prior of Lesraahago, elected
ill 1203 ; — see at Spynie; peti-
tioned the Pope for its re-
moval to Elgin — died in 1222.
Andrew de Moravia, son of
vour with James IV., trans-
lated to St. Andrew's in
1514.
James Hepburn, abbot of
Dunfermline, and high-trea-
surer— died before Novem-
ber, 1524, when the Earl of
Angus wrote to Cardinal
Wolsey to solicit the Pope
for the bishopric of Moray
and the abbacy of Melrose,
"whilk is are baitu vacant,"
for his brother.
Robert Schaw, abbot of Pais-
ley— died in 1527.
Hugh de Moravia, Lord Alexander Stewart, son of
Duffus ; — see transferred to Duke of Albany — died in
the old church of Holy Trio- 1527.
ity at Elgin, after his couse- Patrick Hepburn, son of first
cration in 1223 — buried in Earl of Bothwell, and uncle
the choir, 1242. to Darnley. He alienated
Simon — died in 1252. the church-possessions, and
Archibald, built and resided braved the Reformation, be-
in palace of Kinnedar — died Ingthe last Popish bishop—
in 1298. died in 1573.
David de Moravia, consecrat- George Douglas, natural son
ed by Pope Boniface in 1299 of Archibald, Earl of Angus,
—a zealous supporter of appointed first protestant
Bruce. bishop, in 1573. At his
John Pilmore, burgess of death, the temporality of the
Dundee, elected Bishop of bishopric was erected by
Ross, and postulated Bishop James VI. into a temporal
of Moray — died in 1362. lordship, in favour of Alex.
Alexander Barr, consecrated ander Lindsay, created
at Avignon, by Pope Urban Lord Spynie ; but it was re-
V., in 1362— excommunicat- purchased by the Crown,
ed the Wolf of Badenoch, and given to the Episcopal
who in revenge burnt the establishment in 1606.
cathedral— died at Spynie in Alexander Douglas, presby-
'397. terian minister of Elgin, or-
William de Spynie, Chantor dained first Episcopal bishop
of Moray— died in 1406. in 1606— died in 1623.
John de lnnes— died in 1414, John Guthrie, minister in
buried under great central Edinburgh, deposed by the
steeple which he began to General Assembly, in 16SS;
rebuild. garrisoned bis castle in self-
Henry de Leighton, LL.D., defence, but afterwards sur-
translated to Aberdeen in rendered. The see reraain-
_!4'^1- ed vacant till the Restora.
David succeeded till 1429. tion.
Colomba de Dunbar— died in Murdoch Mackenzie, chaplain
i*33- to the great Gustavus Adol-
John Winchester, L.B. Cleri- phns, of Sweden, originally
cus Regis, Provost of Lin- a presbyterian ; translated
cluden. Lord-register — died to the see of Orkney in
in 1460. 16T6.
James Stewart, of Lorn— died James Aitkens, translated to
in 1453. Galloway in 16S0.
David Stewart, his brother, Colin Falconas, bishop of Ar-
built great tower of Spynie gvle, translated to Moray
palace— died in 1475. iri I6S0, being ignorant of
William Tulloch, bishop of the Gaelic language — died
Orkney, translated in 1477 in 1686.
—keeper of the privy seal— Alexander Ross, principal of
died in 1432. St. Mary's college, St An.
Alexander Stewart, son of drew's ; translated to Edin-
queeu-mother by her second burgh in 1687, after his con-
marriage with Sir James secration.
Stewart of Lorn— died in William Hay, D.D., ejected
150I- at the Revolution in 1698,
Andrew Forman, in great fa- after his consecration.
The revenues of the bishopric were, no doubt, at
first very limited, but by the bounty of our kings,
nobility, and private individuals, they became very
ample indeed. King William the Lion was a liberal
donor. At a very early period he granted to it the
tenth of all his returns from Moray. Grants of
forests, lands, and fishings were also made by Alex-
ander II., David II., and other sovereigns, besides
the Earls of Moray, Fife, &c. Some of these lands
were in Inverness, Ross, &c, and among them were
the lands of Rothiemurchus and Strathspey. The
rental, for the year 1565, as taken by the steward of
the bishopric, was £ 1,675 2s. 4d. Scots, besides a
variety of articles paid in kind. At this period,
however, more than a half of the church-lands had
been "frittered and sold and squandered:" the full
rents were not stated, and probably the rental then
given did not amount to a third of the actual in-
come in the high and flourishing period of the
bishopric. The estates or temporalia of the bishop-
ric, with the patronages belonging to the bishop,
remained, after the Reformation, in the Crown till
1590, when James VL assigned them all to Alexander
Lindsay, a son of the Earl of Crawford, and grand-
son of Cardinal Beaton, for payment of 10,000 gold
crowns, the sum which he had lent his majesty
when in Denmark, Lindsay being at the same time,
as already observed, created Lord of Spynie. After
the king had prevailed on Lord Spynie to resign the
lands to obtain a revenue for the Protestant bishops,
the latter's rights of patronage were reserved till the
extinction of his family in 1670, when they were re-
assumed by the Crown as ultimus hares. The
Crown conveyed them by charter, in 1674, to James,
Earl of Airlie, who disponed them to the Marquis
of Huntly in 1682.
Elgin's ancient glory has departed with its princely
bishopric, and gorgeous religious rites ; but the light
of a new regeneration, while it has been rapidly ob-
literating even the shadow of its former glory, is as
rapidly providing a solatium for the loss more truly
in accordance with the modern march of human pro-
gress. " Forty years ago," observes the writer of the
New Statistical Account of Elgin, " there were no
turnpike-roads leading to or from it, no stage-coaches,
no gas-work, no lighting or side-pavement to the
streets, no hospital for the sick, no institution for
the support of old age and the education of youth,
no academy, no printing-press or newspaper pub-
lished in the town." In 1812 the first mail-coach
was started in the north. " The blast of its horn, as
it entered the town of Elgin with a couple of horses
and a guard in royal livery, excited no small interest
among the inhabitants, and was hailed as the harbin-
ger of a new era." So indeed it was. The mail and
several stage-coaches now enter and leave the town
every day ; carriers regularly go to Aberdeen, Banff,
Inverness, and all the adjacent towns and villages.
The turnpike roads are excellent, and diverge in
every direction, crossing, here, the river Lossie, bv
four modern one-arched bridges, three of stone and
one of iron. New and very handsome houses occupy
the places of the old. New streets have even started
up ; and villas, built in an elegant style, and inter-
spersed with shrubberies and gardens, now adorn
the southern suburbs. The streets and shops, and
even private houses, are brilliantly lighted with gas,
and the town is now well-drained and cleaned. The
population of the burgh, in 1831, was 4,493. Houses
811. Assessed property, in 1815, ±"2,435. In the vici-
nity of the town there is a small suburban village
called Bishopmill, the superior of which is Lord Sea-
field The new church is one of the most elegant
structures in the north. It has a spacious portico of
Doric columns covering its western entrance, and
a handsome tower with clock and bells, surmounted
by a lantern with a richly chiseled cupola. The
Trinity Episcopal chapel, with a handsome Gothic
front, now forms a neat termination to North-
street,* and, besides a Roman Catholic chapel, there
are two for congregations of Seceders, and one for
Independents. Elegant Assembly-rooms were erected
and tastefully fitted up in 1822, and Sir Archibald
Dunbar's town mansion, Westerton-house, &c, are
of recent erection. Printing-presses have been in-
troduced, and, in 1827, was established the Elgin
Courier, which has been succeeded by the Elgin Cou-
rant. There is an excellent public library in the
town, a literary association, a museum, a literary and
debating society, a speculative society, a horticul-
tural society, two bible societies, &c. &c. The aca-
demy of Elgin has been long celebrated. It is under
the patronage of the burgh, and partly supported by
endowment, partly by funds appropriated, for the
establishment of a music-school, by King James,
in 1620, from the revenues of the Maison Dieu.
* Moray or Elgin is still a conjoined diocese of the Scottish
Episcopalian church.
2 i
498
ELGIN.
Besides the scliool-fees the classical master has a
salavy of .£50 per annum, and the mathematical and
English masters £45 each. These sums are inde-
pendent of the Dick bequest. The three principal
teachers appoint their own assistants. The branches
taught in the academy are English reading and writ-
ing, English grammar and composition, arithmetic,
geography, practical mathematics, French, Latin,
and Greek, with an occasional course of lectures on
natural philosophy illustrated by experiments. There
are 10 or 12 schools in the town. The trades of Elgin
patronize a school for teaching reading, writing, arith-
metic, grammar, and geography ; and besides the free-
school, to be afterwards alluded to, there are also two
schools for the education of young ladies, a drawing-
school, a dancing-school, an infant-school, &c.
The Elgin Institution, at the east end of the town,
was founded and endowed in 1832, from funds amount-
ing to £70,000, bequeathed for the maintenance of
aged men and women, and the maintenance and edu-
cation of poor or orphan boys and girls, by General
Anderson — a gentleman who rose from the rank of a
private soldier — to which, itself, indeed, in the first
place, he may truly be said to have also risen ; for,
as observed by Mr. Robert Chambers in his highly
illustrative and interesting ' Picture of Scotland,'
"there was something even below poverty in his
origin. A small apartment is shown amidst the
ruins of the cathedral where his mother, an indigent
and infirm old widow, who could afford no better
lodging, lived for many years, while he was a boy ;
and this, I humbly conceive to be, in one sense, the
greatest curiosity about Elgin. In a crib not more
than five feet square, surrounded by melancholy
ruins, and the dread-inspiring precincts of a church-
yard, Anderson spent all his early years ; the boy
who was, on this account, perhaps the most wretched
and despised of all the boys in the town, being all
the time destined to reach superior honours, and to
make provision for numbers of such outcasts as him-
self. Let the stranger inquire for, enter, and ponder
upon this humble cradle of genius and greatness."
The rank this man of noble ambition ultimately held
was that of Major-general in the Honourable East
India Company's service. The philanthropic and
splendid monument which he may be said to have
thus raised to his own honourable and immortal
memory, is a beautiful and appropriate piece of archi-
tecture. With the simple elegance of outward pro-
portions, and built of native sandstone which even
marble cannot excel, its internal accommodations
present every comfort suited to the inmates, — ad-
vantages which are enhanced by able and me-
thodic management. It is a quadrangular building
of two stories, surmounted by a circular tower and
dome. The institution for the children contains a
school-of-industry ; the children are apprenticed also
to some trade or useful occupation. The house-go-
vernor and teacher of the school of industry has a
salary of £55 per annum, and his maintenance and
lodging in the institution. A public-school, on the
Lancasterian system, is attached to the institution as
a free-school, for the education of male and female
children whose parents, though in narrow circum-
stances, are still able to maintain and clothe them.
The male and female teachers have a joint salary of
£75.
Gray's hospital, or infirmary and dispensary, con-
stitutes another beneficent institution also founded
by a native of Elgin, Dr. Gray, who was afterwards
resident at Calcutta. It is intended for relief of the
sick poor of the town and county of Elgin, and was
founded and endowed from a bequest of £26,000.
The building was erected in 1819, on a slight but
spacious eminence at the west end of the town. Its
situation is singularly well chosen, and being a very
handsome edifice, in the Grecian style, with a pro-
jecting portico of Doric columns on its eastern front,
from a design of Gillespie, it forms a splendid ter-
mination to the High-street. — A small Lunatic asy-
lum for paupers has been lately erected on the Hos-
pital grounds. The founder also established a charity
" for reputed old maids of the town of Elgin." Other
charities connected with the town besides the alms-
houses, supported out of the preceptory of Maison
Dieu, are the Guildry charitable fund, for the benefit
of decayed brethren, widows, and children : — income,
in 1835, £300 per annum ; Lang's, Braco's, and
Petrie's, mortifications, and several friendly and re-
ligious societies.
Elgin was made a royal burgh by William I. It is
classed with Banff, Cullen, Inverury, Kintore, and
Peterhead, in returning one member to parliament.
The parliamentary constituency, in 1839, was 249.
The constitution of the burgh, previous to the opera-
tion of the burgh reform act, was fixed by an act of
the convention of burghs, 8th July, 1706. The
council consisted of a provost, four bailies, dean-of-
guild, treasurer, and two other councillors. It is
now governed by a provost, four bailies, and twelve
coimcillors. Its municipal constituency, in 1 839, was
204. The revenue of the burgh, in 1839-40, was
£538 14s. 5d. In 1832 it was £715 0s. 4d., in-
clusive of £74 for anchorage and shore dues at
Lossie-mouth, where the corporation built a har-
bour, on which the burgh had from time to time
expended considerable sums for repair, which the
revenue thus arising was not nearly sufficient to meet ;
a joint stock company was, therefore, afterwards
formed for the erection of a deeper harbour at Stot-
field point, to the north of the old harbour. Of the
burgh-revenue, in 1832, £241 4s. Id. arose from feu-
duties, £107 18s. 9d. from rental of land, and £187
lis. lid. from entries of feu- vassals, burgesses, &c. and
other casualties. The expenditure on an average of
five years to 1832 was £8S7 18s. 4|d. The amount
of debt then due by the burgh was £794 10s., be-
sides the sum of £18 12s. 7d. per annum for the ap-
plication of which the burgh was answerable, arising
from sums mortified in their hands for charitable pur-
purposes. Besides the appointment of the burgh-
officers the principal patronage of the corporation in
1S32 consisted of the academy. The number of bur-
gesses, in 1832, was 141, of whom 40 had rents or
tenancy under £5. In 1832 there were 213 houses
of £10 and upwards rental within the burgh. As-
sessed taxes £S00 6s. Id Elgin is the head-burgh
and seat of the sheriff-court of the shire of Elgin and
Forres ; and the centre of a large and well-improved
agricultural district. Branches of several metropoli-
tan banks are settled in the town, and there is also a
savings' bank. There are weekly markets on Tues-
day and Friday, and cattle markets on the 3d Friday
of February, 3d Friday of March, 3d Friday of April,
2d Friday of May, 1st Tuesday of June, 3d Tuesday
of July, 3d Tuesday of August, 3d Tuesday of Oc-
tober, and 3d Wednesday of December. Elgin gives
the title of Earl to a branch of the illustrious and
royal house of Bruce. Thomas, 3d Lord Bruce
of Kinross, was created Earl of Elgin, in 1633, by
Charles I. A descendant of this noble family,
Thomas, the 7th earl, formed the valuable collection
of the Elgin marbles in the British museum.
ELIBANK, an estate in the shire of Selkirk, and
parish of Yarrow ; on the south bank of the Tweed,
8 miles north-west of Selkirk. In 1613, Sir Gideon
Murray was appointed a lord-of-session, by the title
of Lord Elibank; and, in 1643, Elibank furnished a
baronial title to Sir Patrick Murray.
ELLAM, or Eld-Ham, an ancient rectory, now
ELL
499
ELY
comprehended in the parish of Longformacus, Ber-
wickshire. The ruins of the ancient church, and of
the hamlet of Ellam, stand on the north side of the
Whitadder, near a ford, whence the place has been
called Ellam-Ford.
ELLANDONAN. See Alsh (Loch).
ELLIOCH. See Sanquhar.
ELLIOTT (The), a rivulet in Forfarshire. It
rises in Deity moss, on the western verge of the
parish of Carmylie, and flows through that parish to
the south-eastward, dividing it into two nearly equal
parts, and receiving several small tributaries in its
course ; it next, over 1A mile's distance, flows east-
ward, forming the boundary-line between Carmylie
and Arbuiot; and it then enters the latter parish,
cuts it from north-west to south-east into parts of
one-third and two-thirds, receives, about its centre,
the waters of Rotten-Raw burn flowing to it from
the west, and eventually falls into the German ocean
about 1J mile south-west of Arbroath. Its whole
course is about 8£ or 9 miles. Its banks towards
Guynd are naturally picturesque and romantic, and
have been beautified by the pleasure-grounds of
the proprietor of the soil ; and, near its conflu-
ence with the ocean, they are finely covered with
trees, and rise into an overhanging precipice which
is surmounted by the romantic-looking castle of
Kelly.
ELLISLAND. See Punscore.
ELLON, a parish in Aberdeenshire, bounded on
the north by Deer ; on the east by Cruden and Logie
Buchan ; on the south by Logie-Buehan and Udney ;
and on the west by Tarves and New Deer. It is
about 10 miles in length from north to south, and
about 7 in breadth from east to west. Extent
about 42 square miles. Assessed property, in 1815,
£5,581. Houses 509. Population, in 1801, 2,022;
in 1831, 2,304; and, in 1837, according to a cen-
sus taken by the minister, 2,805. The parish is
intersected by the river Ythan, a few miles from its
mouth, and which is navigable for large boats to
within half-a-mile of the village of Ellon. There is
an excellent salmon-fishery on this river: near it are
some small plantations of fir, ash, elm, and alder,
but they serve more for ornament than use. The
surface of the parish is uneven, rough, and bleak in
appearance, and not very productive. Though there
is a good deal of rising grounds, the height of these
is not considerable. The soil on the low ground is
dry; but in the northern parts it is generally wet
and mossy. The grounds, especially near the river,
are well-cultivated. The village of Ellon contains
about 380 inhabitants, and is pleasantly situated on
the Ythan, which is here crossed by a handsome
bridge. It is 17 miles north by west of Aberdeen,
and a like distance south by west of Peterhead
The parish is in the synod of Aberdeen, and presby-
tery of Ellon. Patron, the Earl of Aberdeen.
Church built in 1777, and repaired in 1828. Sit-
tings 1,120. Stipend £219 2s. 7d., with glebe
valued at ±'18 per annum. Unappropriated teinds
±56S lis. 8d There is an Episcopalian chapel, built
in 1815; sittings 262. Minister's salary ±95 per
annum. The congregation has existed since 1688.
— There is also an United Secession chapel, built in
1827; sittings 340. Minister's salary ±74 4s. and
a house and garden An Independent chapel was
built in 1825; sittings 350 Schoolmaster's salary
±28, with ±25 fees and an interest in the Dick be-
quest. There are two private schools in the parish
kept by males, and eight or ten by females who prin-
cipally teach knitting and sewing.
ELPHINSTONE. See Dunmore.
ELST (Loch), a lake in the parish of Criech,
Sutherlandshire. It is about 2 miles in length, and
discharges itself into the Dornoch frith by a rivulet
of the same name.
ELVAN (The), a small river in Lanarkshire, in
the parish of Crawford, which has its rise near the
Lowther-hill, on the confines of Dumfries-shire, and,
after a north-east course of some miles, falls into
the Clyde at Elvanfoot, in the parish of Crawford :
see next article. It is famous for the particles of
gold which have been occasionally found in its sands.
See Glengonar.
ELVANFOOT, a stage-inn on the road from
Glasgow to Carlisle, at the junction of the Elvan and
Clyde; 18 miles south-east of Douglas-mill, and 12
north-west of Moffat.
ELY, or Elte, a small parish in Fifeshire, on the
sea-shore, west of St. Monan's. It originally formed
part of the parish of Kilconquhair, from which it
was disjoined about 1639. In length it is 2 miles
from east and west, and nearly 1 in breadth from
north to south. It is bounded partly by the frith of
Forth, which here forms the bay of Ely, and partly
by the parish of St. Monan's on the south ; by the
same parish on the east; and by the parish of Kil-
conquhair on the north and west. About a mile to
the north-west of the principal part of the parish,
there is another portion, which is entirely cut off
from it by the intervention of a part of Kilconquhair,
and is bounded by that parish on the south, east,
and north, and by Hewburn on the west. There
are no hills, and scarcely even a rising ground in the
parish, the whole surface being flat, and a consider-
able part of it near the sea-shore forming sandy links.
The promontories which form the two extremities
of the bay of Ely consist of amygdaloid and basalt,
the latter exhibiting sometimes a columnar structure.
Between these headlands the beach is low, and com-
posed of alternating, thin beds of sandstone and shale,
with occasionally seams of coal and strata of lime-
stone,— the whole belonging to a carboniferous sys-
tem, and inclined at high angles in different direc-
tions, and without any regularity. Basalt occurs in
numerous places, extending in long reefs far into the
sea, — the beds of sandstone and shale dipping from
them on both sides ; but at one point in the western
part of the bay the strata are said to dip under the
basalt.* The population, in 1801, was 730; in
1831, 1,029. Houses, in 1831, 180. Assessed pro-
perty, in 1815, £3,857. The greater proportion
of the parish belongs to Sir W. C. Anstruther of
Anstruther, Bart. Originally it formed what was
called the barony of Ardross, and belonged to a
family of the name of Dischington, from whom it
came about the beginning of the 17th century, to
Sir William Scott, who held the office of dircctor-
of-chancery during a part of the reign of Charles I.
From his descendants the barony was acquired about
the close of that century, by Sir William Anstruther
* " About 2 miles to the eastward of Elie is a small promon-
tory, near the extremity of which is situated a bed of marine
shells. The extent of the deposit across the promontory does
not exceed 80 yards ; its range inland has not been ascertained.
The bed rests unconformably upon strata of sandstone and
shale, containing masses of ironstone, aud consists principally
of coarse sand, with rounded fragments of sandstone and iron-
stone. The shells are sometimes imbedded in clay, but arc
more frequently scattered irregularly through the deposit, and
belong, without exception, to existing species. The point at
which they were first noticed, is about 5 feet above high-water
mark, and the shells were very much broken. As the bed
gradually rises towards the north-east, they are more numer-
ous, and better preserved ; the greatest height at which they
were noticed, by Mr. Hamilton, being 12 or H feet above the
ievel of high tide. The strata, on the basset edges of which the
shelly bed rests, Mr. Hamilton conceives were thrown into
their highly inclined position by the agency of the neighbour-
ing trap, and before the accumulation of the gravel and sand ;
but, in consequence of the angle presented by the latter,
and the distribution of their component materials, a subsequent
elevatory movement hits taken place, to which he ascribes the
difference of level between the deposit and the present shore."
—Geological Transactions for 1835.
EMA
500
ENH
of Anstruther, ancestor of the present proprietor.
The ruins of the ancient castle of Ardross, the manor-
place of the harony, still remain, about a mile east
of the village. Ely house, the present mansion-
house, is situated north of the village, and in its
immediate vicinity. It is a large building, erected
apparently rather more than 150 years ago in the
semi-classic style introduced by Sir William Bruce
of Kinross. The grounds are beautifully wooded, and
have been laid out with great taste, but have been
for some time greatly neglected. There are 1,370
imperial acres in the parish, of which 56 acres have
never been cultivated; and about 50 acres are in
wood. The rent of the arable land varies, accord-
ing to its quality, from £1 to £4 per acre; the
average being nearly .£1 15s. per acre. The valued
rent is £4,105 13s. 4d. Scots; the rental, in 1836,
was about £2,562 sterling This parish is in the
presbytery of St. Andrews, and synod of Fife.
Patron, Sir W. C. Anstruther, Bart. Stipend
£149 8s. 8d. ; glebe £28 17s. 6d. The parish-
church is situated in the village. It appears that
the spire was built in 1726, and it is probable
the church was built much about the same time.
The church received a thorough repair in 1831.
It is seated for 610 There are 3 schools in the
parish. The parochial school is in the village,
and is well-attended. The teacher has the maxi-
mum salary, besides school-house, dwelling-house,
and garden. About 50 children from this parish
attend school at Earlsferry.
The village of Ely, situated on the sea-shore, is
a burgh-of-barony. It is neat and well-built ; the
streets are wide, clean, and regular. It is well-
sheltered from the east wind, and has for a long time
been a place of considerable resort during summer
for sea-bathing. No market is held in the town, but
Colinsburgh — in the parish of Kilconquhair — which
is only 2^ miles distant — has regular weekly and
yearly markets. There is a post-office in the village,
which is a sub-office to that of Colinsburgh. A
coach from St. Andrews to Largo passes regularly
through Ely every day during the summer, to meet
the steam-boat for Newhaven; and the Aberdeen
and Dundee steam-boats land and take on board
passengers twice, and sometimes three times a-day.
There are also two regular packets that sail weekly
to Leith, exporting grain, potatoes, &c\, and import-
ing articles of merchandise for the shopkeepers in
the district. The harbour is naturally an excellent
one, and forms a safe and accessible shelter for ves-
sels, during a gale from the west or south-west.
Some care appears to have been at one time taken
to improve its natural advantages, by the erection
of quays and a pier; but nothing has of late been
done for their preservation.* Notwithstanding the
advantages which Ely enjoys as a fishing-station,
very little profit is derived by its inhabitants from
that branch of industry. There are few fishermen
in the place ; and these merely fish along shore for
white fish, to supply the consumption of the village
and neighbourhood.
EMANUEL, or Manuel Priory, an ancient
edifice, now in ruins, in the parish of Muiravonside,
on the north bank of the Avon, about a mile above
Linlithgow bridge. It was founded in 1 156, by Mal-
colm IV., surnamed the Maiden, and was occupied
by nuns of the Cistertian order. Besides the endow-
* Mr. Stevenson has given a plan for ita improvement, at an
expense of not more than from £1,000 to £5,000: and some
correspondence has in consequence taken place, but nothing
has, as yet, been done in the matter. To the eastward of the
harbour, and at a small distance from it, is Wadehaven, so
called, it is said, from General Wade, who recommended it to
Government as a proper harbour for men-of-war. It is very
large, and has from 20 to 22 feet water at common tides.
ments bestowed by the royal founder, it received
considerable donations from others at different pe-
riods. The prioress of this house swore fealty to
Edward I., on the 28th of July, 1291 ; as did Alice,
her successor, at Linlithgow, in 1296. Of this nun-
nery little now remains except the western end of the
church. It is of hewn stone, but unadorned; yet
there is an elegant simplicity in it, and with the
beauty of the surrounding objects, it makes a very
picturesque appearance. Grose has preserved a
view of it.
EMBO. See Dornoch.
ENDER (The), a streamlet in the parish of
Blair- Athol, formed by the junction of several smaller
brooks, which, uniting a little above Dalmean in the
west part of Athol, fall into the Garry, at the ham-
let just named.
ENDRICK (The), a small river which rises in
the Gargunnock hills, parish of Gargunnock, Stirling-
shire, and flowing towards the south-east, is joined
a small distance from its source by the Burnfoot
burn, after which it forms, for about a mile and a
half, the western boundary of the parish of St.
Ninian's. It then makes a sharp turn to the west-
ward, entering the parish of Fintry a little below
the old ruin called Sir John de Graham's castle. A
little farther on, it falls over a perpendicular rock
60 feet in height, forming a singular cataract well-
known in the district by the name of ' The Loup of
Fintry.' Continuing its westerly course, it leaves
the kirk of Fintry on the left, and the woods of Cul-
creuch a little on the right, and then quitting the
parish for Fintry, it forms, for about 5 miles, the
boundary between the parish of Balfron on the north,
and that of Killearn on the south. Near the western
extremities of these parishes it makes a bend to-
wards the south-west, and enters the parish of Kil-
learn between the mansion-houses of Boquhan and
Carbeth. After describing various windings it turns
directly southward, forms a singular and romantic
waterfall called the ' Pot of Gartness,' near the once
favourite residence of the illustrious Napier, and is
joined by the Blane near Croylecky. On receiving
this accession to its waters, it describes a sort of
curve, and turning abruptly towards the west, enters
the parish of Drymen. It is shortly afterward joined
by the Catterburn from the south, upon which it
makes a slight northerly bend, but immediately re-
verting to the original direction of its course, it
passes a little to the south of the kirk-town of Dry-
men and the Earl of Montrose's noble mansion-house
of Buchanan, forms the bounding-line between the
counties of Stirling and Dumbarton, and finally falls
into Lochlomond at the distance of little more than
a mile south-west from the kirk of Buchanan, and
about half-a-mile from the small island Aber in
Lochlomond. Many parts of the banks of the En-
drick are of great beauty, and the valley through
which it flows has been celebrated in Scottish song
under the name of ' Sweet Innerdale.' Franck, in
his quaint 'Northern Memoirs,' (1694,) speaks of
"the memorable Anderwick, a rapid river of strong
and stiff streams; whose fertile banks refresh the
borderer, and whose fords, if well examined, are
arguments sufficient to convince the angler of trout;
as are her deeps when consulted, the noble race and
treasure of salmon ; or remonstrate his ignorance in
the art of angling. Besides this Anderwick," he
adds, " there are many other small rivulets that
glide up and down these solitary parts."
ENHALLOW, one of the Orkneys, constituting
part of the parish of Rousay. It is about a mile in
circumference, and is separated from Rousay by a
reef of rocks, which, being covered at high water,
have sometimes proved fatal to the unwary mariner.
ENN
501
ERI
The sound of this name is on the south, between it
and the island of Pomona; as it is narrow, and the
tide rapid, it should only be attempted with a fair
wind, and in moderate weather.
ENNERIC (The), a river in Inverness-shire,
rising in Loch Cluny, in Glenmoriston, which falls
into Loch Ness.
ENSAY, one of the Harris isles. It is about 2
miles long and 1 broad; is verdant all over, and
well-cultivated.
ENZIE. See Rathves.
EORAPIE-POINT. See Lewis.
EORSA, a small island of the Hebrides, lying
between the islands of Mull and Icolmkill. It is
inhabited.
EOUSMIL, an insulated rock about half-a-mile in
circuit, lying on the west side of North Uist. It is
noted for its seal-fishing.
EOY, a small island of the Hebrides, lying be-
tween Barra and South Uist.
ERCHLESS-CASTLE. See Stratbglass.
ERCILDOUNE. See Earlston.
ERES (St.), an old chapel in the parish of Wick,
Caithness ; a little below Ackergill tower.
ERIBOLL (Loch), an arm of the Northern
Atlantic, ocean, in the parish of Durness, in Suther-
landshire : see article Ddrness. It is about 1 1 miles
in length, and varies in breadth from 1 to 3 miles,
and in depth from 15 to CO fathoms. At Camisen-
dunbay, about 7 miles from its entrance, is excellent
anchorage, and a ferry, 2 miles broad. Its eastern
shore, from the Whiten-head southwards, presents a
series of caves and arches "the most extensive and
extraordinary," according to Macculloch, " on any
part of the Scottish coast." At its upper end is
some fine Alpine scenery, amongst mountains of
quartz and grey slate, in which Benhope [which
see] is conspicuous. Near the entrance of this loch
is the pleasant island of Hoan, about a mile in length
and half-a-mile in breadth ; and a little above Cam-
isendunbay ferry is another island, of nearly the same
dimensions, called Choarie.
ERICHT, or Erochd (Loch), a lake partly in the
parish of Fortingall, county of Perth, and partly in
the parish of Laggan, county of Inverness. It is
about 16 miles in length, and 1 mile in breadth. The
recent Statistical Account mentions, that accord-
ing to an ancient tradition, the district now covered
by the waters of this lake was formerly dry, and con-
stituted an entire parish called Feadail; and that the
entire parish, with its inhabitants, was overwhelmed
in one night, by the sudden bursting of an immense
oody of subterranean water. The tradition also
states, that for long afterwards the church and part
of the principal village could be seen under the water
in clear weather. Its waters are emptied into Loch-
Rannoch, which lies about 5 miles to the south,
whence they flow, through Loch-Tummel, into the
river Tay. There is no road to Loch-Ericht; but
it may be visited at its southern extremity, either
from the head of Loch-Rannoch, to which there is a
road along that lake, or from the inn at Dalnacardoch
on the Great North road. From either of these
places a huge extent of bog, muir, moss, and moun-
tain has to be traversed ; but by approaching from
Loch-Rannoch, a much less portion of this sort of
travelling is necessary than if the visiter attempts
to cross the mountains from Dalnacardoch. There
is no road along its banks, and no house, with the
exception of a solitary hunting-lodge, and the hut of
a shepherd near its upper extremity. Few, there-
fore, we should think, will be inclined to make the
attempt of penetrating to its northern extremity,
along its rocky margin, or climbing over the nearly
perpendicular precipices which almost entirely form
its boundary. Nothing can exceed the solitude and
desolation of its shores. Rocks bared by the winter
storm, — lofty, precipitous, and sometimes altogether
perpendicular, — surround it; and every where are
scattered huge blocks of stone which frost or tor-
rents of rain have detached from the mountains.
Vegetation seems here almost at an end. The bleat-
ing of sheep, the barking of the dog, or the cry of
the shepherd, seldom if ever break the silence of this
silent place : the visiter finds himself alone amid
the silence of nature, — of nature in its wildest form.
At the south end, where the waters of the lake are
discharged towards Loch-Rannoch, is a rock of 300
or 400 feet perpendicular height. Its summit is ac-
cessible with great difficulty ; and here is to be seen
an ancient fortification or place of strength, the la-
borious work of an early people who had at one time
inhabited this district. It is about 500 feet in length,
and 250 in breadth, over the walls. The walls are
upwards of 15 feet in thickness, and are constructed
of large squared broad stones, firmly laid together,
though without mortar. The general purpose of
such an erection is abundantly obvious ; but the time
when, or the people by whom, it was erected, it is
now impossible to ascertain On the east side of the
lake, about a mile or two from the south end, a small
cave is pointed out as having afforded shelter and
concealment to the young Chevalier after the battle
of Culloden. He had wandered previously for some
time amid the wilds of Moidart, the islands, and
Lochaber, and had made many hairbreadth escapes
from being taken by his ruthless pursuers, when,
learning that Cameron of Lochiel, and M'Donald of
Keppoch, two of his most devoted followers, were
concealed in Badenoch, he set off to them, and found
them at this cave on the shores of Loch-Ericht.
The cave is small, and is formed by detached blocks
of stone which, having fallen down to their present
situation, form a small opening which might receive
two or three individuals. The fugitives, however,
had enlarged its dimensions, by erecting a hut of
trees in front of its entrance, from which circum-
stance it obtained the name of the cage, by which it
was popularly known at the time. A more effectual
place of concealment, or one less likely to be in-
truded upon than this at Loch-Ericht, could hardly
have been selected Dr. Macculloch says: " At the
southern extremity, Loch-Ericht terminates in flat
meadows, vanishing by degrees in the moor of Ran-
noch, and in that wild and hideous country which
extends to Glen Spean along the eastern side of Ben
Nevis. This is indeed the wilderness of all Scotland.
The wildest wilds of Ross-shire and Sutherland are
accessible and lively, compared to this. They might,
at least, contain people though they do not ; which
this tract never could have done, and never will nor
can. I know not where else we can travel for two
days without seeing a human trace : a human trace,
— a trace, a recollection, of animal life ; and with
the dreary conviction that such a thing is impossible.
It is indeed an inconceivable solitude ; a dreary and
joyless land of bogs, a land of desolation and grey
darkness, of fogs ever hanging on Auster's drizzly
beard, a land of winter and death and oblivion. Let
him who is unworthy of the Moor of Rannoch be ban-
ished hither ; where he can go next, I know not; un-
less it be to New South Shetland. Every where else in
Scotland, wild as it may be, (and assuredly it is often
wild enough,) if we do not see the marks of a living
world, of something that speaks of man or beast or in-
sect, we can yet conceive that such things might have
been, or that they may be at some future time, ii
even there is not much expectation of life, there is
still the hope left. But, here, to live, is impossible ;
and if there are any trout in its waters, doubtless
ERI
502
ERS
they escape to Loeh-Erieht, or elsewhere, as fast as
they can."*
ERICHT (The), a stream which issues from the
southern end of the above lake, and after a course of
a few miles falls into Loch-Rannoch.
ERICHT (The), a river in the east of Perthshire.
It is formed by the junction of the Airdle and the
Shee in the parish of Blairgowrie, which it crosses,
and flowing in a south-easterly direction forms the
soundary between that parish and the parish of Rath-
bay. It then flows through the parish of Bendochy
in the same direction and falls into the Isla nearly
opposite Balbrogy, in the parish of Cupar- Angus.
Its channel is rocky, and its stream rapid and turbu-
lent. The scenery on its banks is in many places
singularly romantic, particularly in the neighbourhood
of Blairgowrie, at a spot called Craiglioch, where the
rocks rise perpendicularly on each side to a height
of more than 200 feet, and for about 700 feet along
the western bank are as smooth as if hewn with the
chisel. The entire course of the river does not ex-
ceed 17 miles
ERICKSTANEBRAE, a lofty hill at the head
of Clydesdale, along the side of which, above a dan-
gerous declivity, the public road from Edinburgh to
Dumfries passes. Here an immense hollow, of a
square form, made by the approach of four hills to-
wards each other, receives the popular name of the
Marquis of Annandale's Beef-stand,. — the Annan-
dale reavers having, in former times, often concealed
stolen cattle in this place.
ERISA (Loch). See Mull.
ERISAY, one of the smaller Hebrides, lying be-
tween North Uist and Harris.
ERISKAY, a small island of the Hebrides, on the
south side of South Uist. It is noted for having been
the first place upon which Prince Charles Stuart
landed, in his attempt to regain the throne of his
ancestors.
ERNE. See Earn.
ERNGROGO (Loch), a small lake near the cen-
tre of the parish of Crossmichael, in the stewartry of
Kirkcudbright. It covers about 40 acres, and is re-
markable for two islets which are much resorted to
by sea-gulls during the breeding-season.
ERROL, a parish on the northern shore of the
Tay, in the carse of Gowrie, Perthshire. Its aver-
age length is about 5£ miles ; its average breadth
about 3 miles; audits superficial extent, as ascertain-
ed from actual survey, 8,620 imperial acres, or rather
more than 15 square miles. It is bounded on the
north by the parishes of Kinnaird and Inchture ; on
the south by the frith of Tay ; on the west by the
parishes of Kilspindie, Kinfauns, and St. Madois ;
* Dr. Macculloch, in his ' Letters on the Highlands and
"Western Islands,* [vol. i. page 452.3 sny? of this lake, in his
usual caustic manner, that he found it an enormous gutter, or
huee ce-s-pool ; and makes sundry sore grumblings about the
difficulties he encountered on visiting it, and the small pleasure
received in viewing it after this had been attained. That a
visit to Loch-Ericht is indeed an arduous aud laborious task,
few who have made the attempt will deny. But the objects to
which it was assimilated in the imagination of the learned
Doctor, will occur to few minds except such as have vegetated
amid the streets and lanes of the metropolis : whose knowledge
of picturesque scenery is bounded by the waterfall in Vauxhall,
or the scenery of Covent-Garden. That the scenery around
Loch-Ericht is not beautiful, is certain ; and it is equally so,
that it is not picturesque. But iew cultivated minds can con-
template the wild shores of this lake without acknowledging
their sublimity, and feeling emotions of awe preBs upon the
soul. Even the Doctor, with all his talent for sarcasm, could
not have written what we have quoted from him in the present
article, while his impressions of this scenery were recent. In
the solitude which reigns around Loch-Ericht there is sub-
limity; in the utter silence, — here undisturbed even by the
hum of an insect, — there is another Bource of the sublime;
while amid the dark mountains, and lofty black rocks which
form the boundaries of the lake, the spectator is at once irn.
pressed with the variety, the greatness, and the grandeur of
Nature.
and on the east by the parish of Inchture. Forming
an integral part of the carse of Gowrie, its surface is
generally flat. In the west, however, there are
several ridges of slight elevation, which extend in a
direction nearly parallel with the Tay, and give a
pleasing diversity to the landscape. The soil is prin-
cipally composed of alluvial clay, and the writer of
the recent Statistical Account states that scarcely a
single rood of land in the parish is out of cultivation.
At the quarry of Clashbennie, near the western extre-
mity of this parish, a number of remarkable fossil re-
remains and impressions have been discovered, f The
quantity of sandstone excavated from this quarry
yearly, is stated in the last Statistical Account, at
between 4,000 and 5,000 tons. The chief wealth of
the district consists in the agricultural produce.
The valued rent of the parish is £16,982 Scots.
The real rent in 1829, was £2,600 sterling. The
population of this parish, in 1801, was 2,652; in
1,831,2,992. Houses 552. In 1836, a private cen-
sus returned the population at only 2,942 ; of whom
2,023 belonged to the Establishment, and 908 to
other denominations. Of the population, 1,218 are
assembled in the village of Errol ; 17 families in the
village of Westown ; 16 families in the village of
Grange, and 35 families in the adjoining villages of
Seatown and Chapelhill. This parish gives a title to
the family of Hay, who were created Earls of Errol in
1452. The family, however, ceased about the mid-
dle of the 17th century to possess property in the par-
ish. The principal heritors are J. L. Allen, Esq. of
Errol ; Col. Allen, of Inchmartin, and Lord Kinnaird.
The parish of Errol is in the presbytery of Perth,
and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, J. L. Al-
len, Esq. of Errol. Stipend, £268 3s. 6d. Church
built in 1831-32, at a cost of above £5,000; sittings
1,434. — There are three dissenting congregations in
the parish. A United Secession congregation was
established at Errol more than 80 years ago. Church
built in 1809, at a cost of upwards of £400; sit-
tings 242.. — Another United Secession congregation
was established at Petrodie in 1788. Church built
in 1789; sittings 320. Stipend £80, with £1 for
window-tax, and a house and garden valued at £14
a-year A Relief congregation was commenced at
Errol in 1795. Church built in 1796; sittings 751
The parochial schoolmaster has a salary of £32 per
annum, with about £35 school-fees ; other emolu-
ments £25 annually, as kirk treasurer and session-
clerk. Average attendance about 94. There are
two private schools in the parish, attended on an
average by about 175 children.
The village of Errol is situated near the sea-coast,
about half-way between the eastern and western
boundaries of the parish. Its position is very de-
lightful, on a slight rising ground which commands a
delightful prospect, particularly towards the south
and west. The population of the village which, as
already stated, amounts to ] ,218, consists chiefly of
operative weavers and their families.
ERSKINE, | a parish in Renfrewshire, bounded
on the north by the Clyde ; on the west by Kilma-
colm ; on the south by Houston ; and on the east by
Inchinnan. Its length from east to west is about 7
miles ; its breadth about 1£ mile in all parts, except
t Among these the impression of an unknown kind of fish,
measuring U~$ inches by 13, which was discovered in 1836, is
the most interesting as yet found. A drawing of this singular
remain was exhibited in the geological section of the British
Association at Bristol, in 1836, and another and more correct
representation of it has since engaged the attention of Professor
Agassi z.
J The mime is probably derived from the British ir-isgyn,
signifying ' the Green rising ground.' A foolish legend derives
it from a person who is said to have received the surname Erif
Skyne, on occasion of a military achievement in the reign vA
Malcolm II,, 1003—33.
ERS
503
ESK
on the east side, where it extends to &V miles. The
parish contains 6,365 English acres, of which about
a half is arable, and well improved; the remainder is
occupied as pasture-ground, and by wood, natural or
planted. The tract along the Clyde is flat and fer-
tile : behind that plain the ground rises considerably.
A hilly ridge extends through the western district.
The soil in general is light, but some tracts are a
deep clay. In the north-east division, a dark grey
mould is mixed with gravel ; in some places there is
till on a bed of freestone ; in others a deep clay.
This parish abounds with good water, but it does
not contain any lake or river ; only some small
streams or burns. The Clyde greatly increases in
breadth, and begins to assume the appearance of an
estuary, as it passes along the border of this parish.
It is here crossed by two ferries : one of these, called
Erskine ferry, nearly opposite to the village of Kil-
patrick, being furnished with quays, serves for trans-
porting horses and carriages, as well as foot-passen-
gers;* the other, called the West ferry, is opposite
to the castle of Dumbarton, and is chiefly used for
foot-passengers. In the eastern part of the parish,
there are some freestone quarries. The two great
lines of communication between Glasgow and Green-
ock, namely, the railway, and the turnpike-road,
pass through the parish The lands of Erskine
were the most ancient possession of the distinguished
family who assumed that as their surname, and after-
wards became Lords Erskine and Earls of Mar.
They remained in the possession of this estate till
the year 1 638, when it was sold by John, Earl of
Mar, to Sir John Hamilton, of Orbiston.f In 1703,
it was purchased from the Hamiltons, by the noble
family of Blantyre ; to whom it still belongs. The
old mansion-house of Erskine, which is still in good
condition, is situate near the bank of the Clyde. On
a rising ground, a little farther down the river, stands
the magnificent modern mansion, the building of
which was commenced by Robert Walter, 11th
Lord Blantyre, who perished accidentally during the
commotions at Brussels, in September, 1830. The
structure is in the Elizabethan style, and presents a
fine appearance from the river. From the house it-
self the views are varied, beautiful, and extensive.
The pleasure-grounds are finely wooded, and a hand-
some obelisk, which was erected to the memory of
the lamented person just mentioned, by the nobility
and gentry of the county, forms a striking and appro-
priate accessory to the scene. — The estate of Bishop-
ton in this parish, now the property of Sir John
Maxwell, originally belonged to the family of Bris-
bane, represented by Sir Thomas Makdougall Bris-
bane The estate of Dargavel belongs to an ancient
family, named Maxwell. The house was built in
the year 1574, as appears from a stone in the front
wall. It is in the French style, which was intro-
duced into Scotland in the reign of Mary ; and having
undergone little alteration, forms a good specimen of
the dwellings of the Scottish gentry about that period.
The lower story is strongly vaulted, and the flank-
* Until 1835, the operation of ferrying cattle across here,
was a very awkward and even perilous one. The animals
were thrust into a deep boat, in the most awkward and dan-
ferous manner possible, and blows innumerable had often to
e applied to them ere they could be prevailed flu to embark.
Now a strong:, neat, roomy, and commodious boat, built ex-
Eressly for the purpose, on the most approved principle, plies
ere; and is found to answer the end admirably. Forty head of
cattle can, by means of it, be conveyed over at once, and that
too, with such ease that the cattle, until they see the shore re-
ceding- from their view, scarcely seem to know tliat they are
afloat. The boat, instead of being guided by poles or oars, is
jollied across by a chaiu, in a way similar to the cattle-boat at
Renfrew. Equestrians, coaches, and loaded carts, can also be
conveyed over, with the greatest safety and expedition.
+ In Swan's Views on the Clyde, p. 65, it is erroneously stat-
ed that this sale was made by Charles, Earl of Mar, "shortly
previous to the year 1(5311."
ing towers are loopholed for musketry. Facing the
gate there is an ancient yew, which in size and
beauty excels any other tree of the same kind in
Renfrewshire Bargarran, a noted scene of witch-
craft, has been described in a separate article Wal-
ter Young, D.D. and F.R.S. Edinburgh, minister of
this parish, from about 1770 till his death in 1814,
was distinguished for his profound and scientific
knowledge of harmony. His successor, Andrew
Stewart, M.D., who died in 1839, possessed great
skill in pulmonary complaints Population, in 1801,
847 ; in 1831, 973. It is a remarkable fact that the
population in 1831 was exactly the same as in 1821.
Houses in 1831, 130. Assessed property, in 1815,
.£7,459 Erskine is in the presbytery of Greenock,
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, Lord
Blantyre. The present church is a handsome edi-
fice. Stipend £279 2s. 9d. ; glebe £9 12s. 6d. Un-
appropriated teinds £382 2s. 4d Salary of parochial
schoolmaster £30, with about £31 fees and emolu-
ments. There is also a side-school, partly support-
ed by a small contribution from the heritors, and
partly by the fees.
ESK (The), a river of Dumfries-shire, formed by
the confluent waters of the Black Esk and the
White Esk. From the point where these streams
unite, the Esk flows 3>, miles south-south-eastward
through the parish of Westerkirk. Hemmed in here
by Craigbill, it sweeps with a rapid circuit round its
base, going off in a direction due north, and assum-
ing a direction due south, in the progress of J of a
mile. It now, for 14 mile forms the boundary line
between Westerkirk and Langholm. Entering the
latter parish, it flows east, north, and east, and de-
bouches to the south, within the space of li mile;
and thenceforth continues, with the exception of un-
important sinuosities, to have a direction to the east
of south, till it receives the waters of the Liddal,
and thence to the west of south, till it falls into
the Solway frith. It intersects Langholm parish
considerably to the eastward of its middle, and flows
past the town of Langholm, and there receives Ewes
water from the north-east, and Wauchope- water from
the south-west. At the point of leaving Langholm-
parish, it is joined by Tarras water from the east;
and, entering Canonbie, it cuts that parish into two
nearly equal parts. At Canonbie-holm, it receives
from the north-east the wealthy tribute of the Lid-
dal; and afterwards, for about a mile, forms the
boundary-line between Scotland and England. It
then enters Cumberland, and having become an Eng-
lish river, it receives from its fatherland the tribute
of Glenzier burn, and from the land of its adoption
the richer tribute of Line river, and, having flowed
past Kirkandrews, and Longto wn, pours along toward
the Solway frith at a point about H or 2 miles from
Sarkfoot, the extreme verge of Scotland. The Esk
is a river of no common beauty. Till it reaches
Broomholm in the south of Langholm parish, it has
its path among mountains or uplands, and afterwards
it traverses a fertile plain. But even in its upland
regions, especially in the vicinity of the town of
Langholm, it is brilliant in the dresses and opulent in
the ornaments of river-beauty. Over a great part of
its entire course, it has a shelving or gravelly bottom,
and glides along amidst lovely woodland scenery and
smiling luxuriant haughs, which, in former ages,
have oft re-echoed to the shouts of war. Measured
from the confluence of the Black and the White Esk,
its course, before leaving Scotland, is about ] 6 miles ;
and after entering Cumberland, between 7 and 8.
ESK (The Black), a river of Dumfries-shire. It
rises in the mountain-range which forms the bound-
ary of the county, near the north-eastern point ot
the parish of Eskdalemuir. For 6 miles it flows near
ESK
504
ESK
<Le eastern boundary of that parish, in a direction due
south, cutting its way through a field of mountains,
and receiving numerous tributary rills in its course ;
it then debouches almost at a right angle, and for 1J
mile flows due east ; it nowbends suddenly round, and
for another U mile flows to the east of south ; and
afterwards, over a distance of 2J or 3 miles, it wends
in remarkable bold sinuosities, east, south, west,
east, north-east and east, forming, part of the way,
the boundary-line between Eskdalemuir and Wester-
kirk, and eventually, at the south-east extremity of
the former parish, forming a confluence with the
White Esk : which see. Its whole course is about
12 miles, through rugged mountain scenery, and ter-
minates at a place called Kingpool, where, according
to tradition, a Pictish king was drowned.
ESK (The North), a river of Forfarshire, form-
ed, according to some representations, by the confluent
streams called the East water and the West water,
but including, according to others, the whole course
of the former of these streams. Even the East wa-
ter, otherwise the North Esk, is formed of three con-
fluent streams, the Mark, the Lee, and the Brany,
which unite their waters near the centre of the par-
ish of Lochlee, at Invermark castle. All the three
rise amidst the mountain-range of the Grampians, on
the northern boundary of the county. The Brany,
the shortest of them and the most easterly, rises at
the hill of Cairney, and flows due south over a dis-
tance of 4i miles. The Lee, the most westerly,
rises at the base of Bousties-Ley, and flows very sin-
uously in an easterly direction, bearing the name of
the water of Urick till it enters Lochlee, and on
its egress thence assuming its proper name ; and tra-
versing altogether, till the point of confluence with
the other streams, a distance of about 1 1 miles. The
Mark, the central stream and the longest, rises be-
tween Wester Balloch and the Black hill of Mark,
flows northward for about 5^ miles, and then bends
round to the south-east, and traverses 6i miles fur-
ther distance till it meets the Brany, and \ of a mile
farther down, the Lee. The East water, or North
Esk, now formed by these united streams, flows
eastward 5A, miles till it touches the parish of Edzel ;
it then debouches and goes northward about 14
mile, forming the boundary-line between that parish
and Lochlee ; it now enters Edzel and intersects it,
flowing first eastward, and next south-eastward, over
a distance of 6 miles; and it finally forms, for 5
miles, the boundary-line between Edzel and Kin-
cardineshire, and at the extreme south-east angle of
Edzel, makes a junction with the West water. In
its course it receives the Effock, the Tarf, the
Kieny, the Turret, and numerous brooks and rills;
and till it emerges from among the Grampians, 4
miles above the point of confluence, it careers rapidly
along a rugged path, and wears the character of
strictly a Highland river. — The West water rises at
Stoney loch, in the extreme west of the parish of
Lethnot, and flows south-east 6i miles, north-east
1 A mile, east 2 miles, and again south-east 4 miles, cut-
ting the parish into two nearly equal parts, receiving
numerous small tributaries, and bearing for a while
the name of the Water of Saughs. It now flows
north-eastward for 2^ miles, forming the boundary-
line between Lethnot on the west, and Menmuir
and Strickathrow on the east; and then flows south-
westward, 5 miles, dividing the latter parish on the
south from Edzel on the north, when it unites with
the East water to form what all nomenclatures agree
in calling the North Esk. In the upper and longer
part of its course it resembles the East water in
being strictly a mountain-stream ; and it flows alto-
gether, in its independent course, about 22 miles
The North Esk of the united waters pursues a direc-
tion somewhat sinuous, but in general easterly,
traversing a distance of 9 miles, — dividing the par-
ishes of Strickathrow, Logieport, and Montrose on
the south, from Kincardineshire on the north, —
diffusing its treasures over a basin of generally a
pleasing, and at intervals a beautiful appearance, —
and gliding away from an overhanging bank tinted
with the hues of fine landscape, to lose itself in the
German ocean, 3 miles north of Montrose. Its entire
course, from the head- waters of the Mark, is about
40 miles.
ESK (The North), a small river of Edinburgh-
shire. It rises in the parish of Linton in Peebles-
shire, in two sources, respectively at the Boar-stone
and the Easter-Cairn-hill,amid black and barren moun-
tain-scenery. Having flowed J of a mile eastward, it
first turns to the south-east, and next resumes its
easterly direction, forming for nearly 5 miles the
boundary-line between Peebles-shire and Mid-Lo-
thian, and receiving, in its course, several tiny tri-
butaries, the chief of which is Carlops-burn, on its
right bank. Entering Edinburghshire at the Powder
mills, it flows about 4 miles north-eastward, till it
sweeps past the village of Penicuick; when it turns
northward, and, for about 1| mile, forms the boun-
dary-line between the parish of Penicuick on the
west and that of Lasswade on the east. It now
runs sinuously for nearly a mile, turning successively
to nearly every point of the compass, and receiving
on its left bank the tribute of Glencross-burn, and
touching over a brief space the parish of Glencross,
and then, over a direct distance of 4 miles, but with
constant meanderings in its course, flows in a direc-
tion east of north to Polton. Over half-a-mile
hence it touches the parish of Cockpen on its right
bank, next sweeps past the village of Lasswade on
its left bank, and then, over the distance of a mile,
bends eastward, intersecting a wing of Lasswade
parish. It now, a little eastward of Melville castle,
enters, in an easterly direction, the parish of Dal-
keith, and, after a mile's run, sweeps past the town
and the ducal mansion of Dalkeith; and having
already assumed a direction east of north, it forms,
half-a-mile farther on, at the northern limit of the
parish of Dalkeith, a junction with its sister-stream,
the South Esk. The united waters of the Esks,
denuded of their distinctive epithets of North and
South, henceforth intersect the parish of Inveresk,
cutting it into two nearly equal parts, and become
ingulfed in the sea at the town of Musselburgh.
The banks of the North Esk, over nearly its whole
course, after entering Mid- Lothian, are delightfully
picturesque and romantic. Though an inconsider-
able brook, while traversing the parish of Penicuick,
it then forms the grand charm of the beautiful de-
mesnes of Penicuick and Newhall; and over the
parish of Lasswade, it wends its course through a
deep and sequestered and richly scenic vale, sweeps
round and almost encompasses the venerable pile of
Roslin castle, and runs thenceforth along a deep and
romantic glen past the caves and mansion of Haw-
thornden. Where it looks up the banks of one of
its tributaries, it even suggests the classic thoughts
associated with 'the Gentle Shepherd' of Allan
Ramsay: see Habbie's Howe. Amid all its beauty
and its wealth of landscape, too, this river contri-
butes largely to the useful and productive aims of
agriculture and manufactory, — driving, in its progress,
the machinery of numerous paper and other mills.
Its manufactories and its mills, however, have de-
stroyed its reputation as a fishing-stream.
ESK (The South), a river of considerable mag-
nitude in Forfarshire. It rises in the extreme north-
west of the county, among the highest of the Gram-
pian range within half-a-mile of the source of a chief
ESK
505
ESK
tributary of the Aberdeenshire Dee. It flows east-
ward 5 miles, and south-eastward 7, intersecting
longitudinally the oblong parish of Clova, in the
extreme west of which it rises, and receiving in its
progress White water, and a large number of moun-
tain-rills. It now enters the parish of Cortachie,
and in a south-easterly direction traverses it over a
distance of 7 miles. Hitherto it moved along a
mountain-path, and was cheerless in its aspect ; but
henceforth it luxuriates amid the fertility and the
culture and the woodland beauties of Strathmore,
and the richest part of the coast-district which in-
tervenes between that fine strath and the sea. For
3 miles after its intersection of Cortachie, it con-
tinues to flow south-eastward, and divides that par-
ish on the west from Tannadice on the east; and it
then, coming in contact with the friendly but power-
ful and unceremonious tribute of Prosen water,
pouring down upon it from the east, makes a gentle
bend, and, over the rest of its course, maintains a
direction, interrupted and varied by numerous brief
windings, but generally due east. From the point
of its confluence with the Prosen, it divides the par-
ishes of Kirriemuir, Oathlavv, and Aberlemno, on
the south, from those of Tannadice, Menmuir, and
Brechin on the north; it then enters the last of
these parishes, sweeps past the town of Brechin,
situated on its northern bank; and after leaving the
parish, divides for 2 miles Marytown on the south
from Dun on the north ; and then suddenly expands
into the beautiful lagoon, 2J miles by 2, called Mon-
trose basin: see Dun and Montrose. From this
fine expanse, — which alternately gleams in splen-
dour under the flow of the tide, and, during the
recess of the waters, darkens into the desolate aspect
of a wide field of mud — the river emerges by two
narrow outlets, which fork round an island, and then
open into a channel £ of a mile wide, along which
the river runs to embrace the ocean at the distance
of 1} mile from the exit from the basin. So narrow
are the two gullets along the sides of the island,
compared with the area and depth of the lagoon,
that the tide, both in entering and in receding, moves
with the impetuosity of a resistless current. Chiefly
on this account, the South Esk, though here wash-
ing the walls and forming the harbour of the popu-
lous town of Montrose, and having on its opposite
bank the flourishing fishing-village of Ferrydon, and
though overlooked in its inland progress by the im-
portant town of Brechin, and many of the opulent
lands as well as some of the stirring villages of
Forfarshire, is of no benefit as a watery highway of
communication further than J of a mile from the sea.
The banks of the river are adorned with numerous
elegant seats and demesnes, and, in particular, with
those of Brechin castle, Rossie, and Kinnaird. The
family of Carnegie, the proprietors of the last of
these, are descended from noble ancestors who, ac-
cepting title from the river, were called Earls of
Southesk. This river, in a former age, produced
pearls of great value, but has eventually suffered
such an exhaustion of its mussel-beds that no shells
have, for a considerable period, been found old
enough to contain the precious gems.
ESK (The South), a small river of Edinburgh-
shire, the sister-stream of the North Esk. It issues,
in the parish of Eddleston in Peebles-shire, from a
small lake called West loch, and flows due north
over a distance of 3i miles, forming the boundary-
line between Peebles-shire and Mid-Lothian over the
last J of a mile of that distance, and entering Mid-
Lothian at a point only 5 miles east from that where
the North Esk enters. Running for half-a-mile first
north and then east, it intersects a small wing of the
parish of Temple, receives on its right bank the tri-
bute of Tweeddale-burn, as far-fetched and as wealthy
as its own waters, and begins, over a distance of 2£
miles, and flowing in a northerly direction, to divide the
parish of Penicuick on the west from that of Temple
on the east. It now, though beginning to run in
constant and beautiful sinuosities which characterize
all its subsequent course, assumes a general direction
east of north, and, over a distance of 2 miles, divides
the parish of Carrington from that of Temple, and
receives the wealthy tribute of Gladhouse water,
which, after traversing the whole parish of Temple
from a point on the limits of Mid-Lothian 2 miles
farther south than the source of the South Esk,
flows down upon that river where it debouches to
the east, and drives it suddenly round to a northerly
direction. The South Esk, after its junction with
the Gladhouse, divides, over a distance of 2 miles,
the parish of Carrington on the west from that of
Borthwick on the east, and receives another impor-
tant accession in Borthwick water. It now, for J
of a mile, meanders north-westward, dividing the
parish of Carrington on its left bank from that of
Cockpen on its right; it then, resuming its northerly
direction, intersects the latter parish over a distance
of li mile; and thenceforth till, 3 miles farther on,
it blends its waters with those of the North Esk, it
intersects a wing of the parish of Newbattle, and
sweeps past the town and the palace of Dalkeith,
enclosing them between its own waters and those of
its sister-stream in a long and beautiful peninsula.
The banks of the South Esk are, in general, richly
clothed in sylvan dress, and possess a romance and
an attractiveness of character little inferior to the
banks of the North Esk, though less frequented by
the tourist and more seldom celebrated in descrip-
tion and song. The district watered by the South
Esk was formerly a lordship or barony, which de-
rived the name of Eskdale from the river, and be-
longed to the Maxwells, but was attainted in conse-
quence of that family's attachment to the dethroned
house of Stuart.
ESK (The White), a river of Dumfries-shire of
similar character to the Black Esk, and flowing paral-
lel to it at an average distance of 3 miles to the east.
Its sources, according to popular nomenclature, are
in the mountains a mile east of Ettrick Pen. But
a stream called Bloodhope-burn rises a little to the
north-east of these, and flows circuitously over a
considerably longer course than is traversed by the
nominally parent stream previous to their confluence.
The White Esk, with the exception of very numer-
ous and sudden but uniformly brief sinuosities, flows,
over its whole course, almost due south, intersect-
ing the parish of Eskdalemuir, a little to the east-
ward of its middle ; and it receives, in its progress,
the tributes of Davington and Garwald from the
west, and of Langshaw burn and Rae bum from the
east, — all, like itself, rising in the central mountain-
range of the Southern Highlands of Scotland. Its
basin, though looking occasionally up some cleughs,
and containing a few spots of some interest, is rather
the deeply-cut course of a mountain-stream than a
dale or valley. The course of the river, till it forms
a confluence with the Black Esk, is, including wind-
ings, about 15 or 16 miles.
ESKDALE, the eastern district of Dumfries-
shire, and the smallest of the three dales or sections
into which that county is popularly divided. These
sections seem never to have had fixed or accurately
defined boundaries; and are loosely represented as
corresponding with the watersheds of the great rivers,
the Nith, the Annan, and the Esk, by which they
are respectively traversed. The considerable terri-
tory, consisting of the parishes of Gretna, Half-
Morton, Kirkpatrick-Fleming, Doruock, and part of
ESK
506
ESK
Middlebie, would thus be debateable-ground between
Annandale and Eskdale, or rather would properly
belong to neither. But as that portion of this
ground which lies nearest the Annan is popularly
reckoned part of Annandale, so Half-Morton is
fairly viewed as belonging to Eskdale. What lies
within the watersheds of the Esk and its tributaries,
is the territory of the large parishes Eskdalemuir,
Westerkirk, Ewes, Langholm, and Canonbie. But
in some old documents, Ewes, consisting of the
basin of the tributary river Ewes, is treated as itself
a section of Dumfries-shire, in common with the
these large sections [see Ewes] ; and in popular
language, it is still styled Ewesdale. Excepting the
parish of Canonbie, and a stripe of the southern part
of that of Langholm, which are a fine flat country,
all Eskdale is hilly or mountainous, constituting a
large part of the Southern Highlands of Scotland,
and presenting a bleak and rugged aspect relieved at
intervals by glimpses of beauty. The immediate
basin of the Esk, till it approaches the southern
boundary of Langholm, is rather a deep river-course
than a valley; and it opens, at frequent intervals,
particularly at the confluences with its own stream
of the Black Esk, the Meggot, the Ewes, and the
Wauchope, into lateral river-courses similar in char-
acter to itself. Nearly the whole of the upland and
greatly larger section of Eskdale, is, in consequence,
pastoral and thin in population. — In all its parts,
Eskdale was settled, early in the 12th century, by
Anglo-Norman barons and their followers. Robert
Avenel received from David I., in reward of mili-
tary services, Upper and Lower Eskdale : he seems
to have been a counsellor of Malcolm IV., and a
courtier of William the Lion. Having granted a
large portion of the estates to the monks of Melrose,
he retired from the world and joined their cowled
society. Gervaise, his son and heir, confirmed to
the monks the grant of Upper Eskdale, and, in 1219,
was buried in their cemetery. Roger Avenel, the
successor of Gervaise, though acknowledging the
monks' property in the lands they had obtained, dis-
puted their right to hunt upon them, and success-
fully made an appeal against that right to Alexander
II. and his barons. The property of the Avenels
seems now to have passed, by female heirs, into the
possession of other families. The manor of Wester-
kirk, occupying the middle part of Eskdale, was
probably granted, along with Liddesdale and some
lands in Teviotdale, by David I., to his follower
Ranulph de Soulis. This estate, however, was for-
feited by the Soulises during the critical and tem-
pestuous period of the war of the succession. During
the reign of Malcolm IV., the lower part of Eskdale
was held chiefly by two brothers of the name of
Rossedal. Guido de Rossedal possessed lands on
both sides of the Lower Liddal. Turgot de Rosse-
dal, and afterwards his successor William, owned a
large part of the lands between the Esk and the
Liddal, and between the Esk and the Sark ; and
Turgot founded a religious house, called the Priory
of Canonbie, on the former section of the property,
and bestowed the adjacent estate on the monks of
Jedburgh. During the reigns of Robert I., and his
feeble son David II., Eskdale, including Ewesdale,
was, in a great measure, acquired by the grasping
Douglas, and, with ample jurisdiction, erected into
a regality. This extensive and powerful lordship
remained with the Douglasses till their forfeiture in
1455; and was then acquired by the Maxwell family,
and continued with them throughout the 16th and
17th centuries. In 1610, John, Lord Maxwell,
erected the town of Langholm into a baronial burgh ;
and the jurisdiction of Eskdale was sometimes, in
consequence, called the regality of Langholm. After
the regality came into the possession of the family
of Buccleuch, it was enlarged by the annexation of
what had belonged, in upper Eskdale, to the monks
of Melrose. In 1747, tie Duke of Buccleuch was
compensated for the jurisdiction by the receipt of
£1,400 sterling.
ESKDALEMUIR, a parish in the district of Esk-
dale, Dumfries-shire. It is bounded on the north by
Selkirkshire and Roxburghshire ; on the south-east
by Westerkirk ; and on the south-west by Hutton
and Corrie ; and on the west by Moffat. It has
nearly the figure of a flying kite, — the arc of a circle
subtended by a long acute angle, the point of the
angle being towards the south. It measures in ex-
treme length, from the highest source of Bloodhope-
burn on the north, to the confluence of the White
and the Black Esk on the south, 1 1 J miles ; in ex-
treme breadth, from Loch-Fell on the west to half-
a-mile above the source of Rae burn on the east, 9J
miles ; and in superficial area about 42,250 English
acres, or 66 square miles. Nearly all its surface is
mountainous, heathy, and of a moory appearance,
and appropriately designated Eskdale-miu'r. The
highest summits are Ettrick Pen on the northern
boundary, and Loch Fell on the western. The for-
mer rises 2,200 feet above the level of the sea, and
is also, and more justly, called Eskdalemuir Pen,
constituting a prominent feature in the landscape of
Eskdalemuir, and being imperfectly and limitedly
seen in Etterick. The soil of the parish is, in gen-
eral, very deep, but mossy, unproductive of fine vege-
tation, and carpeted with heath, or with a coarse
grass. Along the banks of the White Esk the hills
are, for the most part, green, and afford excellent
pasture ; and there are a few meadows or holms
which repay cultivation. The parish is cloven into
mountain-ridges by the White and the Black Esk,
and very numerous tributaries. Near the northern
boundary, on the brook Finglandhope, is a cascade
called Wellsburnspout, of about 56 feet in height.
In the western division, on Garvald water, is an-
other cascade, peculiarly romantic: see Gauvald
Water. On almost every hill of the parish are
marks of encampments, some rectangular, and some
of a circular or oval form. On the top of a hill on
the farm of Yetbyre, near the confluence of the Esks,
is a very complete oval encampment, which has long
and generally been regarded as the celebrated Roman
camp of Castle-over, Castle-o'er, or Overbie, which,
as an upper station, communicated by a causeway
with the camps of Middlebie and Netherbie. But
Dr. William Brown, the venerable minister of the
parish, and the statistical reporter of it both in the
Old Account, of Sir John Sinclair, and in the New,
now in course of publication, though he followed the
prevailing opinion in his first report, became of opin-
ion that the encampment in question is of Saxon
origin; and he discovered, considerably to the north
of it, on a tongue of land at the confluence of the
White Esk and Rae burn, what appears to be the
true Castle-o'er. This camp, elaborately described
by Dr. Brown in the New Statistical Account, con-
tains, in its present state, an area of 5 acres, 1 rood,
and SO poles, English ; and is supposed to have con-
tained, in its original condition, 6 acres, 3 roods, and
24 poles. Within the larger area is a space, 270 feet
by 100, enclosed and fortified. The vallum and fosse
remain still distinct ; and the ditch, 20 feet wide, is,
on an average, 5 feet deep. On the farm of Coatt
are two circles of erect stones, in the form of what
are popularly styled Druidical temples; the one en-
tire, measuring about 90 feet ; and the other, worn
partly away by the Esk, measuring about 340 feet.
On the peninsula at the confluence of the Esks, an
annual fair was, in former times, held, at which a
ESS
507
ETI
remarkable custom prevailed. At any anniversary of
that fair, unmarried persons, of the two sexes, chose
companions suitable to their taste, with whom they
agreed to live till next anniversary. This strange
paction was called 'hand-fasting,' or 'hand in fist.'
If, at the return of the fair, they were mutually
pleased with their companionship, they continued
together for life ; and if not, they separated and
were free to make another choice.* The parish is
traversed from north to south along the White Esk
by one line of road, and diagonally from south-west
to north-east by another. Population, in 1801, 537;
in 1831, 650. Houses 114. Assessed property, in
1815, £6,329. — Eskdalemuir is in the presbytery of
Langholm, and synod of Dumfries. Patron, the
Duke of Buccleuch. Stipend £220 15s. lOd. ;
glebe £20. Unappropriated tends £719 14s. The
parish originally constituted part of Westerkirk, and
was disjoined from it in 1703. The church was
built in 1826. Sittings nearly 400. There are 2
schools ; one of them unendowed. Parochial school-
master's salary £34 4s. 4id, with school-fees amount-
ing to about £10.
ESSIE. See Rhtnie and Essie.
ESSIE and NEVAY, two parishes consolidated
into one, on the western verge of Forfarshire. They
are strictly coterminous, and of not unequal size, —
Essie on the north, and Nevay on the south. The
united parish is bounded on the north by Airlie ; on
the east and south-east by Glammis ; on the south
by Newtyle ; and on the west by Perthshire. It is
of somewhat an oblong form, stretching from north
to south; and measures, in extreme length, from
Dean river near Blackhill to Banquho tower, 4J
miles; in extreme breadth, from Newmill on the
west to a point near Eanie on the east, 22 miles ;
and in superficial area about 5,120 English acres, or
8 square miles. The eastern division consists of the
declivity of the Sidlaw hills, and the western of a
portion of Strathmore. The Dean river flows slug-
gishly along the north, forming the boundary-line
over a distance of 2i miles ; and is noted for the
large size and delicious flavour of its trouts. Three
rivulets, two of them indigenous, intersect the par-
ish, or, for a short way, trace its boundary. One
of these, the burn of Essie, rises at the hill of Auch-
terhouse, in the parish of the same name, flows
northward through Glammis, and, after entering
Essie, drives a mill, bathes the wall of the church-
yard, and at length, 6 miles sinuously from its
source, falls into the Dean. The soil of the eastern
or upland division is a thin black mould on a bottom
of mortar, and more fertile than that of any part of
the opposite declivity of the Sidlaws ; but toward
the summit of the hills it degenerates, and is suitable
only for plantation or for pasturage. The soil of the
eastern or strath division is, in the south, a level and
marshy tract continuous with the moss of Meigle ; and,
in the north, it is in some places thin but fertile, and in
others a strong and rich clay, partially subject to oc-
casional overflowings of the Dean. A vein of silver
ore, too inconsiderable, however, to be worked, was,
at one time, discovered in the south-east corner.
There is a quarry of excellent freestone of a light
g.ey colour, and capable of a fine polish. The parish
is intersected by the turnpike between Perth and
Forfar, and by three other roads, one longitudinally,
and two across its breadth. Population, in 1801,
* Persons of hiqh rank seem to have taken the benefit of this
custom. Lindsay, in his reign of James II., says : " James,
sixth Earl of Murray, begat upon Isabel Innes, daughter of the
Laird of Innes, Alexander Dunbar, a man of singular wit and
courage. This Isabel was but handjist with him, and deceased
before the marriage ; where-through this Alexander he was
worthy of a greater living than he might succeed to by the laws
and practices of this realm."
638; in 1831, 6.54. Houses 130. Assessed property,
in 1815, £2,195 The parish is in the presbytery of
Meigle, and svnod of Awrus and Mearns. Patron,
Lord Wharnctiffe. Stipend~£161 5s. 2d. ; glebe £15.
Both parishes have churches in which divine service
is performed alternately. The manse, situated near
the church of Essie, has a commanding prospect to
the west and north-west. The parishes were united
before the middle of the 17th century Schoolmas-
ter's salary £34 4s. 4Ad., with school-fees £17 5s. 7d.
Besides the parochial school there is one unendowed.
ESSIL, an ancient parish, now comprehended in
that of Speymouth : which see. It is 3 miles north
of Fochabers. *.
ETIVE (Loch), a navigable inlet of the sea in
Argyleshire, nearly 20 miles long, but of very un-
equal breadth. Its shores are pleasant, being indent-
ed with creeks and bays, which afford safe anchorage
in any wind. The extremity of Loch Etive bends
its course, from Bunawe ferry, in a north-easterly
direction, till it terminates in a point, where it re-
ceives the waters of the Etive river, running through
Glen Etive. About 7 miles from its entrance from
the sea, it contracts into a narrow channel ; see article
Connal. " Loch Etive, between the ferries of
Connal and Bunawe," says Professor Wilson, "has
been seen by almost all who have visited the High-
lands— but very imperfectly ; to know what it is
you must row or sail up it, for the banks on both
sides are often richly wooded, assume many fine
forms, and are frequently well embayed, while the
expanse of water is sufficiently wide to allow you
from its centre to command a view of many of the
distant heights. But above Bunawe it is not like
the same loch. For a couple of miles it is not wide,
and it is so darkened by enormous shadows that it
looks even less like a strait than a gulf — huge over-
hanging rocks on both sides ascending high, and yet
felt to belong but to the bases of mountains that
sloping far back have their summits among clouds
of their own in another region of the sky. Yet
are they not all horrid; for nowhere else is there
such lofty heather — it seems a wild sort of brush-
wood ; tall trees flourish, single or in groves,
chiefly birches, with now and then an oak — and
they are in their youth or their prime — and even
the prodigious trunks, some of which have been
dead for centuries, are not -all dead, but shoot
from their knotted rhind symptoms of life inex-
tinguishable by time and tempest. Out of this
gulf we emerge into the Upper Loch, and its ampli-
tude sustains the majesty of the mountains, all of
the highest order, and seen from their feet to their
crests. Cruachan wears the crown, and reigns over
them all — king at once of Loch Etive and of Loch
Awe. But Buachaille Etive, though afar off, is
still a giant, and in some lights comes forwards,
bringing with him the Black Mount and its depend-
ents, so that they all seem to belong to this most
magnificent of all Highland lochs. ' I know not,'
says Macculloch, ' that Loch Etive could bear an
ornament without an infringement on that aspect of
solitary vastness which it presents throughout. Nor
is there one. The rocks and bays on the shore,
which might elsewhere attract attention, are here
swallowed up in the enormous dimensions of the
surrounding mountains, and the wide and ample
expanse of the lake. A solitary house, here fear-
fully solitary, situated far up in Glen Etive, is only
visible when at the upper extremity ; and if there be
a tree, as there are in a few places on the shore, it
is unseen; extinguished as if it were a humble moun-
tain-flower, by the universal magnitude around.'
This is finely felt and expressed; but even on the
shores of Loch Etive there is much of the beautiful;
ETT
508
ETT
Ardmatty smiles with its meadows, and woods, and
bay, and sylvan stream ; other sunny nooks repose
among the grey granite masses ; the colouring of the
Banks and braes is often bright; several houses or
huts become visible no long way up the glen ; and
though that long hollow — half a day's journey — till
you reach the wild road between Inveruran and
King's House — lies in gloom, yet the hillsides are
cheerful, and you delight in the greensward, wide
and rock-broken, should you ascend the passes that
lead into Glencreran or Glenco. But to feel the
full power of Glen Etive you must walk up it till
it ceases to be a glen. When in the middle of the
.jinoor, you see far off a solitary dwelling indeed —
perhaps the loneliest house in all the Highlands —
and the solitude is made profounder, as you pass by,
by the voice of a cataract, hidden in an awful chasm,
bridged by two or three stems of trees, along which
the red-deer might fear to venture — but we have
seen them and the deer-hounds glide over it, fol-
lowed by other fearless feet, when far and wide the
Forest of Dalness was echoing to the hunter's horn."
ETTLETON, a district in the parish of Castle-
ton in Roxburghshire, formerly a rectory and vicar-
age, and the churchyard of which is still in use. It
is situated on the west side of the Liddal, at the head
of the dale.
ETTRICK, a parish in the south-west of Selkirk-
shire ; bounded on the north by Yarrow ; on the east by
Yarrow and Roberton ; and on the south and west by
Dumfries-shire. Its figure is a square with consider-
able sinuosities of outline. Diagonally, from Cadger-
craig on the north-east to Micklewhin Fell on the
south-west, it measures 12A miles; and from Mere-
cleugh on the north-west to Moodlaw loch on the
south-east, 10 miles ; and it contains an area of
43,968 imperial acres, or 68.09 square miles. The
surface is a sea of hills, beautiful and varied in ap-
pearance, and everywhere wearing the mantle of
romance. Seen along the water-courses they rise
crest above crest, hazy and of bleak aspect in the
distance ; but, seen in succession, or in near group-
ings, they are, in general, exquisitely rounded, and
richly arrayed in verdure, with just a sufficient num-
ber of heathy spots and clumps of plantation to be
ornamental to their dress. Toward the sources of
the streams, along the western and the southern boun-
daries, the summits tower aloft to a considerable
elevation. Old Ettrick hill is 1 ,860 feet above the
level of the sea; Wardlaw or Weirdlaw hill, 1,986;
and Ettrick Pen, 2,200. But the last, though the
bighest summit in the parish, and commanding over
three-fourths of a circle a most extensive prospect,
is so situated behind a congeries of elevations at the
head- waters of the Ettrick as to be very limitedly
a prominent feature of the landscape. The streams
of the parish, the Ettrick, and its tributaries, Tima
water, Rankle burn, and Tushielaw burn, are rapid
and impetuous in their upper course, appearing, from
the overseeing heights, like threads of silver in fair
weather, and like thin long wreaths of soiled snow
when swollen into torrents ; and they cut their way
through gorges or narrow defiles which afford no
scope for expansion into vale or basin. The Ettrick,
however, begins, about the middle of the parish, oc-
casionally to smooth down the surface on its banks
into rich, luxuriant, blooming haughs ; and, when
receiving the waters of its chief tributaries, it is
joyous and opulent in the beauties of its scenery,
and looks aside among the mountains through vistas
delightfully picturesque. The parish, from its ex-
treme south-west angle to the middle of its north-
east boundary, is cut into two nearly equal parts by
the Ettrick ; and is traversed southward in its south-
ern section by Tima water and Rankle burn, and
eastward in its northern section by Tushielaw burn.
In the north-western verge is the Loch of Lowes,
less than a mile in length, fed by five mountain-rills,
and particularly by the incipient stream of Yarrow,
flowing into it like the drainage from a city. Com-
municating with the Loch of Lowes, lying within a
furlong south of it, and stretching away from the
boundary-line into the conterminous parish of Yarrow,
is the beautiful lake called St. Mary's Loch : which
see Half-a-mile west from this lake, at the north-
west angle of the parish, a scarcely visible tract styled
the King's road, mounts over the summit of the hill
of Merecleughead, and is pointed out as the path by
which James V. entered the district to inflict the
summary and unsparing chastisement so lugubriously
commemorated in song and story On Ettrick water,
almost at the centre of the parish, stands the little
hamlet of Ettrick, presided over by the chastely con-
structed parish-church. The heights immediately
around are lofty and of Highland aspect, suggesting
thoughts of solitude and mountain might and dark-
ness which are almost oppressive. One of the very
few houses, near the lonely church and its burying-
ground and its little straggling retinue of trees, was
the birth-place of Hogg, the Ettrick Shepherd. In
the sequestered cemetery is a fine monument, of re-
cent erection, over the ashes of probably the best
man who ever hallowed the ' bushy dells ' of Ettrick
with the breathings of sentiment as superior to mere
earthly poetry as the music of the spheres excels the
creaking of a rusty hinge, — the adopted and cherished
instructor, for three generations bygone, of the wisest
of Scotland's peasantry, — Thomas Boston, the well-
known author of ' The Fourfold State.' — On the
south side of the Ettrick, nearly opposite the church
and beneath the shadow of an existing stronghold
called old Ettrick house, formerly stood a village,
which was barbarously destroyed about the com-
mencement of the 18th century A mile-and-a-half
below the church, on the same side of the stream,
are the modern mansion and the ancient tower of
Thirlestane, both finely shaded by some venerable
ash-trees, and beautified by a rising plantation.
Thirlestane is the seat of Lord Napier, the lineal
descendant of the ancient family of Scotts of Thirle-
stane, and the inheritor, by maternal right, of the
name of Napier. On the opposite side of the river,
at half-a-mile 's distance, are vestiges of the tower of
Gamescleuch, built by one of Lord Napier's ances-
tors Two miles farther down the vale of the Et-
trick is touched from the south by the minor vale of
Rankle burn. Following the latter between a dense
pressure of hills, and a sabbath silence and an awful-
ness of solitude, a tourist arrives, after a progress of
2^ miles, at the two lonely farm-steadings of the
Buccleuchs, on one of the earliest estates of the
powerful family to whom it has given title : for
" In Scotland no Buckclenc.h was then,
Before the buck in the cleuch was slain."
Both tradition and song trace the name to the seizing
and killing of a buck in a cleuch ; and they minutely
describe and even identify the localities of the event,
— a spot in the cleuch where the buck was taken,
and the spot on which it was slain. In the cleuch
thus celebrated by association with the name and the
splendours of a ducal family, are moss-grown traces
of an old corn-mill, sung and satirized by poetry, —
there never having been an acre of corn raised in the
whole glen. A mile-and-a-half higher up Rankle
burn, in a deep solitude, frequented only by the sheep
in their upland walks, are traces of the wall and the
church-yard-dike of the old parish-church of Buc-
cleuch: see Buccleuch Overlooking the conflu-
ence of Rankle burn with the Ettrick, on a declivity
risitig from the left bank of the latter stream, stand
o
'/v/v/v r-v.^v-
'
;, i ■,</',.'';■ ,/ UltS &>tfi/"t,c/c ' \ . <■/:'
ETT
509
EU
the dingy ruins of the old tower of Tushielaw, cele-
brated alike in song, in tradition, and in history.
Tushielaw was the property and stronghold of a
powerful section of the clan Scott, and figures in
many a story of their stirring and ruthless move-
ments as reavers and freebooters. Adam Scott, one
of the family, and currently called ' king of the
thieves' and 'king of the border,' roused by his ex-
ploits the slumbering wrath of James V. ; and, in
the course of a judicial excursion of the monarch
among the fastnesses of 'the forest,' is traditionally
reported to have been one morning seized by him
before breakfast, and summarily hung up under the
shadow of his own stronghold. The tree from which
be was suspended is an old ash, still standing among
the ruins, and still currently called the gallows-tree;
and, strangely enough, still bearing along its branches
numerous nicks and hollows traced by ropes in his
ruthless execution of wretched captives on whom he
inflicted the fate which eventually became his own
A road, in excellent condition, leading up from Sel-
kirk, passes along the whole vale of the Ettrick, and
leaves the parish at Permanscore, to lead down to
Moffat. A branch-road from this strikes off half-
way between Thirlestane and Ettrick church, and
goes up Tima water, leaving the parish at the source
of that stream to pass through Dumfries-shire on to
Carlisle. Another road leads off, from the head of
Ettrick, round along the west to the head of the vale
of Yarrow. A neat and comfortable inn, for the ac-
commodation of tourists, was recently built on the
highway near the tower of Tushielaw. Population,
in 1801, 445; in 1831, 530. Houses 88. Assessed
property, in 1815, ;£7,148 Ettrick is in the pres-
bytery of Selkirk, and synod of Merse and Teviot-
dale. Patron, Lord Napier. Stipend .£249 9s. 7d. ;
glebe £28. Unappropriated teinds i'55 Is. 7d.
Sittings in the parish-church nearly 500. The pre-
sent parish includes, on the east, the old parish of
Buccleuch. In the south-west, in the glen of Kirk-
hope burn, there was, in ancient times, a church
called Kirkhope. In the north-west corner, in a
vale called Chapel-hope, at the south-west angle of
the Loch of Lowes, there was a chapel, probably
subordinate to the mother-church of St. Mary in
Yarrow — Schoolmaster's salary .£34 4s. 4|d., with
£16 school-fees. Though there is no permanent
unendowed school, one or two small non-parochial
schools are held during winter.
ETTRICK (The), a river of Selkirkshire. It
rises in the extreme south-west angle of the countv ;
and, with few sinuosities, pursues a north-easterly
direction over its whole course. The source of its
highest head- water is on the south side of the central
summits of the highest mountain-range of the south-
ern Highlands, among some rushes between Loch-
fell and Capel-fell, 2 miles above a farm-house which
is reported to be the most loftily situated in Scot-
land. For 12 miles, including windings, it inter-
sects the parish of Ettrick, receiving innumerable
rills or mountain-torrents, and three considerable
tributaries in its course, and spanned by a bridge
above the confluence with Tima water. It now,
for half-a-mile, divides Ettrick from Yarrow ; and,
having entered the latter, traverses it over a dis-
tance of about 8h miles, making a beautiful detour
below Gilmanscleuch, and crossed by a bridge at the
village of Ettrick bridgend. It then, for 2^ or 3
miles, very circuitously forms the boundary-line be-
tween Yarrow and Selkirk; receives, on the left
bank, the rejoicing waters of the Yarrow; and, over
a distance of 2^ miles, intersects the parish of Sel-
kirk, flowing past the burgh, and crossed there by a
neat bridge. It now, for half-a-mile, intersects a tiny
wing of Roxburghshire; next, for 1£ mile, divides
that county from Selkirkshire •, and then falls into the
Tweed 2 miles below the town of Selkirk. Its en-
tire course is about 28 miles. As to the appearance
of its banks, see the articles Ettrick, Yarrow, and
Selkirk.
ETTRICK FOREST, a popular, poetic, and his-
torical name for the whole or chief part of Selkirkshire.
All the country watered by the Ettrick, the Yarrow,
and their tributaries, and the kindred district watered
by the Cadon northward of the Tweed, besides the
upper ward of Clydesdale, were anciently a literal
forest, the remains of the ancient Caledonian forest.
The most numerous woods were oaks, mingled with
birch and hazel. Great numbers of oaks have even
very recently been dug up in mosses which evi-
dently owed their formation to the stagnation of
waters upon the neglected woodlands The forest,
judging from the prevalence of a Saxon nomen-
clature throughout the district, appears to have
been early settled by the Northumbrian Saxons.
From the time of Eai'l David, through several cen-
turies, many grants were made, chiefly to the abbeys
of Selkirk, Melrose, and Kelso, of various ' ease-
ments ' within the ample scope of the forest. At the
close of the 13th century Edward I., acting as the
sovereign of Selkirkshire, gave away the forest's
timber ; and was followed, in his conduct, by Ed-
ward II. and Edward III. At the accession of
Robert Bruce the forest was given to Sir James
Douglas in guerdon of his services ; and it continued ,
with his family till their forfeiture in 1455. On the
4th of August, in that year, Ettrick forest was, by
act of parliament, annexed to the Crown. Abound-
ing in beasts of chase and birds of prey, the forest
now became again — what it had been before its
possession by the Douglasses — a favourite hunting-
ground of the Scottish kings. In 1528, James V.
"made proclamation to all lords, barons, gentlemen,
landward-men, and freeholders, that they should
compear at Edinburgh, with a month's victuals, to
pass with the king where he pleased, to danton the
thieves of Tiviotdale, Annandale, Liddisdale, and
other parts of that country; and also warned all
gentlemen that had good dogs to bring them, that
he might hunt in the said country as he pleased :
The wliilk the Earl of Argyle, the Earl of Huntley,
the Earl of Athole, and so all the rest of the gentle-
men of the Highland, did, and brought their hounds
with them in like manner, to hunt with the king,
as he pleased. The second day of June the king
past out of Edinburgh to the hunting, with many of
the nobles and gentlemen of Scotland with him, to
the number of twelve thousand men ; and then past
to Meggitland, and hounded and hawked all the
country and bounds; that is to say, Pappert-law,
St. Mary-laws, Carlavirick, Chapel, Ewindoores,
and Longhope. I heard say, he slew, in these
bounds, eighteen score of harts." [Pitscottie's
' History of Scotland,' folio edition, p. 143.] After
this stately hunting, James, who ' made the rush-
bush keep the cow,' in order to increase his reve-
nues, poured into it 10,000 sheep, to figure there
under the tending of a thrifty keeper, instead of
10,000 bucks which scoured its woodlands during
the bounteous age of Edward I. ; and by this act,
he led the way to such a conversion of the entire
forest into sheep-pasture, as occasioned a rapid and
almost total destruction of the trees. The last
sovereign of Scotland who visited it for the sake of
the chase was the beautiful Mary. Excepting a few
straggling thorns, and some solitary birches, no traces
of ' Ettricke foreste fair ' now remain, although,
wherever protected from the sheep, copses soon
arise without any planting.
EU (Loch). See Ewe.
EUC
510
EYE
EUCHAN WATER, a rivulet in the northern
part of Nithsdale, Dumfries-shire. It rises in Black
Larg-hill, on the boundary-line between Dumfries-
shire and Ayrshire ; flows 3 miles north-eastward,
and then 5^ eastward; having its whole course in
Sanquhar parish, amid mountain-scenery, and falling
into the Nith opposite the old castle of Sanquhar.
EUCHAR (The), a rivulet in Argyleshire. It
takes its rise from Loch Scammodale, in the district
of Kilninver, and, after a rapid course to the north-
west, falls into the sound of Mull.
EVAN WATER, a rivulet of Lanarkshire and
Annandale, forming a sister-exception with the Nith,
to the entire separation of waters by the extended
mountain-range which constitutes the northern boun-
dary-line of Dumfries-shire. The Evan rises in the
parish of Crawford, at Clydes-law, so near the
source of what is popularly reckoned the parent-
stream of the Clyde, as now to receive the waters
of a rill which formerly was a tributary of that noble
river. It first flows about 2 miles westward ; then
suddenly debouches, and flows 3-J- miles south-east-
ward ; and now assumes a southerly direction, passing
li mile to the boundary of the two counties, and there
entering the parish of Moffat, to intersect it over a dis-
tance of 2* miles. It now receives Cloffin burn, and
enters the parish of Kirkpatrick-Juxta, taking a di-
rection to the east of south on entering it; and, after
traversing that parish over a distance of 4} miles,
and receiving in its progress the tribute of Garlpool
burn, it forms a confluence with the river Annan, at
the point where that river receives on its opposite
bank the tribute of Moffat water, 2 miles south of
the town of Moffat. Its entire course is about 14
miles; one half in Lanarkshire, and the other in
Dumfries-shire. The rivulet is chiefly remarkable
for its cutting a channel through a high and precipi-
tous part of the Southern Highland mountains, for
the safe and easy line of mail-coach road, well-known,
as the Evandale road, between Glasgow and Carlisle.
Its upper course is over rugged rocks, among hills
and mountains generally acclivitous, and, in some
instances, nearly perpendicular. As it rises, and for
some distance flows, at an elevation nearly 1,000 feet
above the level of the sea, it has in many places the
impetuous motion of a torrent. In its lower course,
as it approaches the Annan, it flows between two
hilly ridges, and has become comparatively tranquil.
EVAN TOWN. See Kiltearn.
1 EVELICKS (The), a river in the county of
Sutherland, which falls into the frith of Dornoch.
It abounds with trout and salmon ; and a small fish-
ing-village of the same name is situated at its mouth.
EVIE and REND ALL, a united parish in the
mainland of Orkney; extending about 12 miles in
length, by about 5' in greatest breadth. It includes
the isle of Gairsay, which is separated from Rendall
by a very narrow sound, and contains about 60 inha-
bitants : see Gatrsay. Population, in 1801, 1,415;
in 18.31, 1,450. Houses 322. Assessed property,
in 1815, ±'375 This parish is in the presbytery of
Kirkwall, and synod of Orkney. Patron, the Earl
of Zetland. The parish-church is in Evie; sittings
498. Stipend £154 6s. 10d.; glebe £'50 There
is an Independent congregation in Rendall — School-
master's salary ±'30. There were 5 private schools
here in 1834.
EVORT (Loch), a safe harbour on the east
coast of North Uist.
EWE (Loch) or En, an arm of the sea, on the
western coast of Ross-shire, into which a broad and
rapid river called the Ewe, issuing from Loch Maree,
empties itself at Pol-Ewe, after a course of only a
mile in length. This loch, and Loch Maree, appear
to have originally formed one loch, under the name
of Loch Ewe, as the village at the head of Loch
Maree is named Cean-Loch-Ewe ; that is, ' the
Head of Loch Ewe.' See article Loch Maree.
The river Ewe is praised by Sir Humphrey Davy
for its finely-stocked pools, from which, at certain
times, a couple of skilful anglers might load a horse
with grilse and sea-trout.
EWES or Ewesdale, a parish in the district of
Eskdale, Dumfries-shire. It is bounded on the north
and east by Roxburghshire ; on the south by Canon-
bie and Langholm ; and on the west by Westerkirk.
Its figure is a broad oval, with indentations on the
north-east and south. It is 8 miles in length from
north to south, and 5| miles in average breadth;
and contains 17,563 Scotch acres, or 34i square
miles. In some ancient writings it is regarded as a
separate and independent district of Dumfries-shire.
" Beyond the Tweed," says Boethius, "to the mid-
dle march under the Cheviot hills, lieth Tevidale,
that is to say, the vale of Tiffe. Beyond it is Eske-
dale, or the vale of Eske, of a river so called that
runneth through the same. Over against Eskedale,
on the other side, lieth Eusdale, so named of the
river Eus, that passeth thereby, and falleth into the
water of Annand." The whole parish is a double
basin, surrounded on three sides by mountains which
form a water-line; and it discharges all its aggre-
gated waters, in the two streams Ewes and Tarras,
through openings on the south. The Tarras rises
at Hartsgarth Fell, and intersects the eastern divi-
sion for 4J miles, and then, for \h mile, forms the
boundary-line between it and Langholm. The Ewes
rises at Mosspaul, in the extreme north. After
a progress southward of 2J miles, it receives on
its left bank Blackhill burn, which had flowed 3^
miles from Tudhope hill. Passing onwards, it
receives the waters of Unthank burn, Mosspeeble
burn, Muckledale burn, and numerous tiny streams;
and after a course, from its origin, of wind-
ingly SH miles, it enters the parish of Langholm,
and, li- mile farther on, closes in, with the river
Esk and Wauchope water, to decorate the brilliant
scenery in which the town of Langholm lies embo-
somed. Ewesdale, along the banks of this stream,
is one of the most beautiful districts in the Southern
Highlands. The hills on both sides are mostly
covered with verdure, and fringed with thriving
plantations, belted or spotted at intervals with
heath; and they exhibit many groupings and phases
of lively and picturesque landscape. Haughs and
stripes of valley stretch along the margins of the
river, and, in favourable seasons, luxuriate under
culture. The parish is traversed in its whole length,
down the vale of the Ewes, by the great mail-road
between Edinburgh and Carlisle. Population, in
1801, 358; in 1831, 335. Houses 53. Assessed
property, in 1815, ±5,001 Ewes is in the presby-
tery of Langholm, and synod of Dumfries. Patron,
the Duke of Buccleuch. Stipend £220 13s. 7d.
Unappropriated teinds £657 6s. lid. The parish-
church contains about 200 sittings. Before the Re-
formation there were two churches and two chapels.
The principal church was dedicated to St. Cuthbert,
and stood on the west side of the Ewes, at a hamlet
which was called Kirk-town of Nether Ewes. The
other church was situated in the upper part of the
vale, at a place now uninhabited except by a soli-
tary shepherd, and called Ewes-duris, or the pass of
Ewes, where a pass leads into Teviotdale. Of the
two chapels vestiges still exist, respectively at Un-
thank and at Mosspaul. Schoolmaster's salary £34
4s. 4|d., with £9 other emoluments.
EYE (Loch), a small lake in the parish of Fearn,
in Ross-shire, about 2 miles long, and half-a-mile
broad. From it proceeds the small river Eye,
EYE
511
EYE
forming in its course a succession of smaller lakes,
which are much frequented by aquatic fowls. It
falls into the Moray frith, near the fishing-village
of Balintore. •
EYE (The), a small river in Berwickshire. It
rises among the Lammermoor hills in the parish of
Cockburnspath, pursues a south-eastward course
over a distance of 1 1 miles, and then, making a sud-
den bend, flows 3J miles north-eastward to the sea
at Eyemouth. Over 2i miles it intersects Cock-
burnspath; over the next mile it divides a detached
portion of Oldhamstocks from Coldingham ; over 6
miles it traverses the latter parish; over the next
1 J mile, it divides Coldingham from Ayton ; and it
now receives a small tributary from the west, and
makes its debouch to the north-east. Half-a-mile
from this point, it sweeps past the village of Ayton ;
Ik mile farther on it receives, from the west, the
considerable tribute of Ale Water, [which see,]
and it thence, to its embouchure, divides Ayton on
the east from Eyemouth on the west. The river
abounds in trouts, of excellent quality, though small
in size ; and, as to the appearance of its banks, is, in
many parts, pleasing and beautiful.
EYEMOUTH, a small parish on the coast of
Berwickshire; bounded on the north by the German
ocean ; on the east and south by Ayton ; and on the
west by Coldingham. It may, in a general view,
"be regarded as a square figure, 1£ mile deep; but it
has a rugged outline on the north and west, and
embosoms in its centre a small detached portion of
Coldingham parish. The boundary-line on the south
is the Ale, and on the east is the Eye. Both streams,
while they touch the parish, are picturesque and or-
namental. The tide flows about half-a-mile up the
Eye. The coast rises, along the whole line, in
rocky and precipitous abruptness from the sea, to
80 or 90 feet above its level; and is sliced down at
intervals by deep fissures or gullies, and at one place
perforated by a cavern ; but, except at two points
where roads have been scooped down its openings,
and at Eyemouth, where its gigantic breastwork is
interrupted by the Eye, it admits no access to the
beach. So far back as fifty years ago, not a foot of
bad or waste ground was in the parish. The soil,
in general, is excellent, and throws up prime crops
of every sort of grain Upon a bold small promon-
tory called the Fort, north of Eyemouth, are the
remains of a regular fortification, erected by the
Duke of Somerset in his invasion of Scotland, while
he held the regency of England under the minority
of Edward VI. Though all the rocks along the
coast are of the common hard whinstone, the pro-
montory of the Fort consists of puddingstone re-
markably hard, capable of a polish like marble, and
offering strong resistance to the action of fire. This
fortification, soon after its erection, was, in the reign
of Mary, demolished in terms of a treaty between
France and England which followed the battle of
Pinkie. A few years afterwards it was reconstructed
under Regent Murray to aid a contemplated interfer-
ence of Scotland in the war which was going on
between France and England; but, at the subsequent
peace, it was again demolished; and, the crowns
becoming united in the next reign, it was allowed
thenceforth to continue in ruin. Grassy mounds,
indicating the lines of demolished wall, are almost
the only traces of its existence ; but they sufficiently
show it to have been a place of considerable strength
and importance The old manor-house of Linthill,
overlooking the confluence of the Ale and the Eye,
is the only noticeable mansion ; and in 1 752 was the
scene of the murder of the widow of Patrick Home,
its proprietor The great Duke of Marlborough re-
ceived from Eyemouth, though he had no connexion
with it, the title of Baron in the Scottish peerage.
Population, in 1801,899; in 1831, 1,181. Houses
207. Assessed property, in 1815, .£3,734.— Eye-
mouth is in the presbytery of Chirnside, and synod
of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Crown. Sti-
pend .£130 19s. 6d., exclusive of vicarage teinds not
valued; glebe £30. Unappropriated teinds £130
19s. 6d. Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4£d., with
.£23 12s. lljd. school-fees, and some other emolu-
ments. There are 4 schools non-parochial. The
church, situated in the town, was built in 1812;
sittings about 450. A small Baptist chapel, but no
other dissenting place of worship, is in the town;
dissenters of other denominations being connected
with congregations in Coldingham and Ayton. The
parish was formerly included in the territory of
Coldingham priory, and did not assume a parochial
form earlier than the reign of James VI. A chapel
connected with Coldingham, and served by a nominee
of the prior, anciently stood within its limits.
Eyemouth, an ancient little sea-port, and a burgh-
of-barony, lies at the mouth of the Eye, in the north-
east angle of Eyemouth parish, 6 miles north of
Berwick. Its plan is altogether irregular, and,
considering its size, is not a little intricate. " The
whole town," says Chambers, in his ' Picture of
Scotland,' "has a dark, cunning look, is full of
curious alleys, blind and otherwise; and there is not
a single individual house of any standing but what
seems as if it could unfold its tales of wonder." But
he alludes, in this summary picture, to the character
which it once wore as a nest of smugglers, and looks
upon it through the thick skreen which contraband
traders hang round their scene of action. The town,
though not elegant, contains many good houses, pos-
sesses a neat spire towering up from its church, and
is supplied with wrater by iron pipes kept in a state
of cleanness and repair. Coal-fuel is cheap and plen-
tiful, being easily procured by land-carriage from
Berwick, or sea-communication from the Forth and
the Tyne. A large building, formerly occupied as
a barrack, and several modern and spacious erections,
are used as granaries, and indicate the existence of
important traffic with the surrounding agricultural
country. The town is the market for a somewhat
extensive district, and the only sea-port in Berwick-
shire. Yet territorial limitation, or the drawing of
an imaginary or artificial line over the corner of a
district geographically unique, does not prevent the
population of the county from viewing Berwick as
still, what it anciently was, their principal port and
their county-town. Eyemouth, in consequence, is,
both as a market and a port, but a gleaner of straws
in the vicinity of a reaper of sheaves. Yet for a
long series of years it has been the depot and the
shipping-place of a large quantity of exported grain.
Even half-a-century ago 20,000 bolls annually, and
in some years more than 40,000 bolls, were shipped
here for Leith and other markets. The corn-trade
falling considerably off, a change of the weekly mar-
ket-day took place, in 1832, to Thursday ; and was
followed by such prosperous results that, during
the succeeding twelve months, grain to the value of
.£20,000 was disposed off in the market. The con-
traband trade, which once characterized it to such a
degree that every house is said to have had its secret
cellars for the concealment of goods, and which has
winged and poisoned many an envenomed shaft of
taunt and satire against the modern population, has
long since entirely disappeared. The latest dealers
in it had all died or removed to distant places several
years before the writer in the Statistical Account of
1792 drew up his report; and both they and their
predecessors had all, according to his statement,
sunk into poverty, bankruptcy, or at best the pos-
512
EYEMOUTH.
session of a mere competence. The herring-fishery
of Eyemouth was for many years so opulent and
productive that 10,000 harrels were made up annu-
ally ; but since 1820, it has gradually declined ; aud
eventually it has fallen so low that a large proportion
of its fleet of 100 or 150 boats have permanently
removed to more prosperous fishing-grounds. Along
with the remnant of this traffic, which sends its
white herrings to Ireland or the Baltic, and its red
or smoked herrings to England, a fishery of cod and
haddock employs 9 or 10 boats, each manned by 6
men, and produces about £2,000 a-year. When the
inhabitants of the parish — who all, excepting about
80, reside in the town — have a season of leisure from
agricultural or other avocational labour, they usually
carry off the produce of the fishery to Edinburgh and
Glasgow, and occasionally penetrate even to distant
and third-rate towns. Such of the produce as they
cannot export by land, is sent away to the Thames,
or up the Forth, and sometimes along the Forth and
Clyde canal. A manufacture of kelp, which for-
merly employed a number of poor persons, was de-
stroyed at Eyemouth, as, in other places, by the
lowering of the duty on barilla.
The bay and the harbour of Eyemouth are objects
of unusual interest. The bay, though only J of a
mile in breadth, and on the north or more extended
side little more in length, is both beautiful in land-
scape, and highly adapted to utility. On one side
it is overhung by the high promontory of the Fort,
and on the other is overlooked by the projection of
Gunsgreen. From point to point it sweeps grace-
fully round in a semicircle, washing the town at its
extremity, and receiving the waters of the Eye con-
siderably south-eastward of the centre of its outline ;
and in front it is protected by a singular ridge of
rocks called the Harkers, past either end of which
vessels sail inward to the harbour. Its encincturing
coast-line everywhere, but especially on the Fort,
commands a magnificent and most extensive sea-
view ; and its bed slopes, in most places, so gently
from the beach, and is so finely sheeted with a gra-
velly bottom, as to allure to its waters many a
summer bather. " The harbour of Eyemouth," said
the well-known Smeaton after professionally survey-
ing it, "lies at the corner of a bay in which ships
can work in and out at all times of the tide, or lie
at anchor, secure from all winds except the northerly
or north-easterly. From this circumstance, its situ-
ation is very advantageous." In all the space along
the rugged and dangerous coast between the Forth
and the Humber, no harbour except this is accessible
in stormy weather. Vessels, therefore, which are
arrested by contrary winds, or otherwise endangered
in their transit, very numerously run to it for pro-
tection. At Mr. Smeaton's recommendation, a
voluntary association of gentlemen, who had em-
ployed him to survey it, erected, at the cost of
.£2,500, a break- water pier to defend it from north-
east gales, and also to deepen it by preventing the
return of the gravel which is forced out by floods in
the river. From this improvement, and some later
ones of not less moment, it has acquired valuable
advantages ; and were it duly provided with suitable
appliances, it might be made such a station for the
custom-house and excise yachts, and for privateers
and small vessels acting offensively, as would, over
a long stretch of coast including the mouth of the
Forth, effectually scare away, in times respectively of
peace and of war, every smuggler, and every enemy's
prize-hunter from taking even a distant look of the
land. The flow of the tide here, as generally in
other harbours on the east coast, averages 10 feet at
neap-tides, and 16 feet at spring-tides. By an act
of parliament, obtained in ] 797, the harbour was
vested in a body of trustees, consisting of the mer-
chants and principal inhabitants of the town, the
baron-bailie ex officio, and at least eight of the free-
holders and commissioners of supply of Berwickshire
residing within 12 miles of Eyemouth. The trus-
tees levy dues which average about £60 a-year; and
expend their revenue in effecting improvements.
Formerly vessels had to get sufferances to unload
and clearances to sail, all the way from Dunbar; but
now, except a small proportion trading to foreign
ports, they are entered and cleared by an officer of
customs on the spot. The annual number of arri-
vals and departures of vessels — not including any
which run into the bay simply for shelter — is about
200. The cargoes outwards are agricultural pro-
duce, fish, malt, and aqua; and those inwards are
coals, slates, tiles, bricks, timber, rags, bones, and
merchant goods.
Eyemouth, as a dependency of the monks of Cold-
ingham, and as the only port within their limits,
must have, at a remote date, sprung into existence.
So early as the reign of William the Lion, or be-
tween the years 1174 and 1214, it is mentioned in
a charter among the records of the priory. In the
14th century, the harbour had sufficiently become a
place of resort as to incite, on the part of the lord
of the manor, a demand for anchorage dues. In 1597,
by a charter from James VI., in favour of Sir George
Home of Wedderburn, it was erected into a free
burgh-of-barony, with the privilege of a free port.
A little before the accession of James VI. to the
throne of England, Logan, the Laird of Restalrig,
had a house or castle in the town ; and dated from
it one of his well-known letters relative to Gowrie's
conspiracy. A notorious inhabitant, at the same
epoch, was the famous or infamous Sprott, the pro-
fessional agent of Logan, and a notary or writer of
the town, who, coming under suspicion of being in
the secret of Gowrie's conspiracy, was, in 1608, ap-
prehended, tried, and executed: see Fast Castle,
The Protector Cromwell, in his progress into Scot-
land, visited Eyemouth with the view of examining
its capabilities as a harbour; and soon after ordered,
as a means of defending the entrance to the Eye,
the construction of a place of strength, on the site
of the ruined fortification on the promontory called
the Fort, and appointed the place to be under the
authority of the governor of Berwick. — By the
charter of barony, the inhabitants and free burgesses
were empowered, with the consent of Sir George
Home and his heirs, to make an annual election of
magistrates, — to buy and sell and exercise every art
and trade as in other free burghs, — to hold a weekly
market and two annual fairs, — and to build a gaol,
hold courts, and appoint clerks and officers ; but, as
regards every thing municipal or jurisdictional, they
seem never to have exercised the privileges con-
ferred, but to have yielded themselves unreservedly
to the will of their superior. The Homes of Wed-
derburn have been in the practice of appointing and
paying a baron bailie and baron officer for the govern-
ment of the town. Occasionally, during the last cen-
tury, and even within these few years, the bailie has
held a court for the determination of petty causes ;
but, in general, he has no scope within the small
community of his jurisdiction for acting as a judicial
functionary. The town formerly paid £10, and
now pays £5 a-year, in name of cess, to the conven-
tion of royal burghs, for participating in the privilege
of foreign trade The town has a branch-office of
the Commercial Bank of Scotland, a parochial library,
and a friendly society. In the room used for the
meetings of the St. Abb's Lodge of free masons the
poet Bums received initiation. Population of the
town in 1831, about 1,100.
EYL
513
EYN
EYLT (,Loch), or Axlt, a small lake, about 3
miles in length by balf-a-mile in greatest breadth,
in the district of Moidart, Inverness-shire. Its
waters flow into the head of Loch Aylort, by a
stream of about Ik mile in length, which sweeps
around the northern base of Benebeg.
EYNORT (Loch), a very irregular arm of the
sea, 3 miles in length, indenting the east coast of
the island of South TJist, and nearly meeting the
head-arms of Loch Bee from the opposite side of
the island. The scenery of Loch Eynort is remark-
ably wild and picturesque; and only wants trees or
a clothing of copse-wood to be, in many places,
enchantingly beautiful.
LOCH AN EILAN.
J.
2k
FAD
514
FAI
F
FAD (Loch), a small lake in the island of Bute,
S miles south from the town of Rothesay. It is about
5 miles long, and scarcely half-a-mile broad ; but
from the rude, rocky, and picturesque appearance of
the hills which surround it, it presents quite a minia-
ture picture of some of the larger Highland lakes.
The slopes of a few of these hills are cultivated ; but
the greater proportion, especially as we proceed to-
wards the head of the loch, are in a state of nature.
Though not remarkable for height, their outline is
in general broken, varied, and interesting ; and the
serrated summits of the Arran mountains on the one
hand, or the hills of Cowal on the other, afford fine
terminations to the view, whether up or down the
lake. Loch- Fad forms a pleasant excursion for tour-
ists, or sea-bathing visiters at Rothesay ; and since
the period that Kean made it a place of repose dur-
ing the intervals from his exertions in his arduous
profession, it has been much more visited than it had
ever previously been. The house erected by Mr.
Kean, though of sufficient size, is a very ordinary
looking one, and generally disappoints the visiters.
Had it been somewhat more of the cottage-style, it
would have better pleased the eye, and been more in
accordance with the situation, which is indeed well-
chosen. The grounds are very agreeably laid out,
and form a singular contrast with the rudeness and
romantic nature of the surrounding scenery. In 1827
— when Kean was in the meridian of his fame — the
following account of his retirement on the banks of
Lot-h-Fad appeared in one of the Glasgow news-
papers : — " The banks of Loch-Fad now swarm with
pilgrims to the residence of our greatest dramatic
performer, who has kindly instructed the old lady —
a native of London — who acts as guardian of the
premises, to allow all respectable persons who may
call a full view of the cottage and grounds. No-
thing can be more rurally simple, and at the same
time more tasteful and elegant, than the residence
here erected by Kean. It is a tolerably capacious
house, two stories in height, with a small one-story
building at either end. On the ground-floor is a
splendid dining-room, furnished in a costly manner,
as is every other part of the house ; and behind it is
a library stocked with a valuable collection of books,
among which are several containing fine engravings
of the costumes of different countries at different
periods, and also the works of Hogarth, Hume,
Gibbon, Robertson, &c, a fine edition of the Spec-
tator, and a beautiful old copy of Shakspeare in one
volume folio, printed about the middle of the 17th
century, and presented to Kean by Mr. Price, the
manager of the New York theatre. In the library are
also many items of the paraphernalia of an actor —
such as swords, daggers, &c, besides an excellent
engraving of Kean in Brutus, one of Garrick, one of
the Earl of Essex, and several others of distinguished
British characters. Within a niche in the lobby stands
an admirable bust of Kean, also in the character of
Brutus, which, as an accurate resemblance, exceeds
the engraving. On the second floor, or upper story,
is a large drawing-room, elegantly fitted up, and in
a style entirely dramatic — in so far, at least, as re-
gards the fancy papers with which the wall is deco-
rated, these being full of scenic representations of
character, most of them taken from prominent sub-
jects in history and mythology. From the windows
ot this apartment an enchanting view is obtained of
Loch- Fad, and of the expanse of land and sea to
southward, the remembrance of which can never be
lost by those who once have seen it. Indeed no
language can do justice to the varied charms of the
situation ; it must be seen to be fully appreciated.
The garden and grounds are laid out in a style dis-
playing the finest perception of the beauties of the
place. Here a soft flower blooms hi the hard cleft
of some jagged rock ; there a walk, edged with box-
wood, winds along amid sinuosities so serpentine as
almost to render a continuous walk impossible ; and
on the top of the eminence at the base of which the
cottage is situated, there stands a fog-house, sup-
ported by massy rustic pillars, its floor paved with
small pebbles from the loch, its seats supported by
hazle cuttings, and its prospect in front commanding
a few glimpses of Loch- Fad, an indistinct view of
Rothesay in the distance, of the tranquil bay beyond
it, and of the Argyle mountains still more remote,
swimming in a kind of blue haze that softens their
outline and imparts to them a character of almost
perfect ideality. Mr. Kean" — the account continues
— " has it in contemplation to erect, within the pre-
cincts of his little territory, an asylum for the retreat
of decayed actors, who may be recommended to him
cither by personal knowledge, or by the society for
the relief of such individuals, which has now for a
considerable time been established in London." We
need scarcely add, that the benevolent design here
recorded — like many others of the projector — never
reached its consummation in performance.
FAD (Loch). See Colonsay.
FAIRAY. See Faray.
FAIR ISLE, an island lying betwixt Orkney and
Shetland, 29 miles south by west of Sumburgh-head.
It is upwards of 3 miles in length, and nearly 2 in
breadth ; and rises into three lofty promontories. It
is everywhere inaccessible, save at one point upon
the south-east, where it affords a safe station for
small vessels. One of the promontories, the Sheep-
craig, is nearly insulated, rising from the ocean in a
conical shape to the height of 480 feet. The soil is
tolerably fertile, and the sheep-pasture on the hills
excellent. In 1588 the flag-ship of the Duke de
Medina Sidonia, the admiral of the Spanish armada,
was wrecked on this island ; and tradition still points
out the residence occupied by the shipwrecked noble.
Sir Robert Sibbald says, in his ' Description of the
Isles of Zetland,' " One memorable accident here
occurs, namely, that the Duke of Medina, admiral of
the formidable Spanish armada, (in the reign of Queen
Elizabeth, anno 1588,) here suffered shipwrack in a
creek on the east side of this isle, where the ship
split, but the Duke with 200 men came to shore alive,
and wintered here in great miserie ; for the Spaniards
at first eating up all they could find, not only neat,
sheep, fishes, and fowls, but also horses, the islanders
in the night carried off their beasts and victuals to
places in the isle, where the Spaniards might not find
them : the officers also strictly commanded the soul-
diers to take nothing but what they paid for, which
they did very largely, so that the people were not
great losers by them, having got a great many Spanish
ryalls for the victuals they gave them ; but now the
people fearing a famine among themselves, kept up
their victuals from the Spaniards. Thus, all supply
from the isle failing them, they took their own bread
(which they had preserved), which being dipt in fish
FAI
515
FAL
oyl, they did eat ; which being also spent, it came to
pass, that many of them died for hunger, and the
rest were so weakned, that one or two of the isle-
landers finding a few of them together, could easily
throw them over the banks, by which means many
of them died. At length all sustenance failing, not
only to the Spaniards, but also to the islelanders,
they sent a small boat or vole to Zetland, desireing
a ship to carrie them out, lest all the inhabitants of
the isle should be famished. Notice came to Andrew
Umphrey of Burry (then proprietarie of the isle),
who having a ship of his own, instantly went to the
isle and brought them to Zetland, where, for the
space of 20 days or a moneth, they met with better
entertainment. The Duke stayed at Quendale till
the ship was readie, where, (imagining the people
did admire him,) he made his interpeter ask Malcolm
Sinclair of Quendale, if ever he had seen such a man ?
To which Malcolm, in broad Scots (unintelligible to
the interpreter) replyed, ' Farcie, in that face, I have
seen many prettier men hanging in the Burrow-moor !'
From Zetland, Andrew Umphrey carried them in
his little ship to Dunkirk, for which the Duke re-
warded him with three thousand merks." Fair Isle
is reckoned one of the Shetland isles, and is annexed
to the ministry of Dunrossness. Population, in 1801,
160; in 1811, 168; in 1831, 317 There is a small
church in connexion with the Establishment here,
but service is very seldom performed in it. There
is also a Methodist chapel, capable of accommodating
about 300. There is a schoolmaster on the island,
under the Society for propagating Christian know-
ledge, who has a salary of £l8; and there are 3 Sab-
bath evening schools.
FAIRLEY, a quoad sacra parish, divided from
the parish of Largs, in 1835, by authority of the
General Assembly. It is about 7 miles in greatest
length, and 6 in greatest breadth, and comprises
6,264 acres. Population 427. Church built in
1833-4; sittings 300. Stipend £75, with certain ex-
tra allowances. The bulk of the inhabitants reside
in the village of Fairley, which is beautifully situated
on the coast, opposite the larger Cumbrae, 2 miles
south of the town of Largs. The coast, on both sides
of it, is for a short way studded with neat villas.
Opposite to it is a good roadsted, formed by the
Cumbraes, and affording safe anchorage. Fairley
castle, an old square tower, formerly the seat of a
family of the name of Fairley, stands in the vicinity
of the village.
FALA and SOUTRA, two parishes compactly
erected into one, the former situated on the south-
eastern verge of Edinburghshire, and the latter on the
north-western verge of Haddingtonshire. Each par-
ish is a stripe of territory stretching from north to
south ; and the two jointly form a parallelogram, 4
miles long and 3 broad. One-half of Fala, and one-
third of Soutra, constituting the northern division
of the united parish, are a slightly undulating but on
the whole level tract of country, well-cultivated and
fertile, composed of a clayey soil, and producing all
the variety of crops common in the Lothians. The
rest of the district, commencing on the north with
Soutra hill, which rises about 1,184 feet above the
level of the sea,* is part of the most westerly ridge of
the Lammermoor mountains, covered for the most part
with heath, and, excepting a few cultivated spots,
all laid out in sheep-pasturage. To a traveller from
the south, who has, over a considerable distance, tra-
versed a dreary moorland carpeted with heath, Sou-
tra hill suddenly discloses the finely cultivated and
beautiful expanse of the Lothians, variegated with
hill and dale, and woods and waters, and richly foiled
* This admeasurement is Mr. Thomas Telford's, in 1821.
The level is takeo from the surface of the quay at Berwick.
on the back-ground with the gay estuary of the Forth,
and the brilliant scenery of the coast of Fife ; and a
panorama is thus hung out to the view which as much
enchants by its attractions, as it astonishes by the
suddenness of its revelation. On the south-east of
Fala, are marshy grounds, extending to some hundreds
of acres, called Fala- Flow, from part of which peats
are dug for fuel. On the north side of Soutra hill
is a fountain of excellent water, called Trinity well,
which, though not now appearing to possess any
medicinal qualities, was formerly in great repute and
much frequented among invalids. The great road
from Edinburgh to Lauder, intersects the united par-
ish south-eastward through its northern division ; and
sends off several cross-roads to the north, and one to
the south, which runs along the eastern verge of
Soutra, to form a junction with the road down Gala
water in the parish of Stow. On the Edinburgh and
Lauder road stands the village of Fala, 15i miles from
Edinburgh, the seat of the parish-church, and of a
Meeting-house of the United Secession, with their re-
spective manses. The. church and part of the village
are situated on a small conical hill of the class called
" laws;" and hence the name Fallaw, abbreviated into
Fala, and signifying 'the Speckled hill.' At the wes-
tern limit of the parish, on the same road as Fala,
stands the hamlet of Fala-dam, 14J miles from Edin-
burgh. Population of the united parish, in 1801,
354; in 1831, 437. Houses 87. Assessed property
in 1815, £1,248 Fala and Soutra is in the presby-
tery of Dalkeith, and synod of Lothian and Tweed-
dale. Patrons, the Town-council of Edinburgh, and
Sir John Dalrymple of Cousland, now Earl of Stair.
Stipend £169 6s. lOd. ; glebe £25 10s. with pastu-
rage for 20 sheep. Unappropriated teinds £76 6s. 8d.
Schoolmaster's salary £34 4s. 4|d., with £25 school-
fees. Fala parish was united to Soutra about the
year 1 600, its church becoming the place of worship
for both parishes. On the summit of Soutra hill for-
merly stood the church and village of Soutra, appro-
priately and graphically designated by that name,
which signifies, in the Cambro-British, ' the hamlet
with a prospect.' This village was anciently a place
of consideration and resort, and a scene of the stirring
ostentatious charity of the Middle ages. Malcolm
IV. founded here, in 1 164, an hospital for the relief of
pilgrims, and the shelter and support of the poor and
the afflicted; and he endowed the institution with
some lands near St. Leonard's in the vicinity of Edin-
burgh, and conferred upon it the privileges of a sanc-
tuary. The masters and brothers of the hospital
were owners of the property and appurtenances of
the church. A causeway leading from the vale of
the Tweed to Soutra, and still commemorated in
various traces among the sinuosities of the moun-
tains, bore the significant name of Girthgate, mean-
ing the asylum or sanctuary-road, and affords proof
that the refuge of Soutra was potent and famous. A
small eminence or rising ground about half-a-mile south
of the site of the hospital, is still called Cross-chain-
hill, and would appear to have had a chain suspended
for a considerable way along its summit to mark the
limits of the privileged ground. When Mary of
Gueldres, founded the Trinity or College church of
Edinburgh, she pervertedly bestowed upon it the en-
dowments of Soutra hospital, and converted its de-
pendent church into a vicarage. The Town-coun-
cil of Edinburgh, getting possession in 1560-1 of
Trinity church and its pertinents, became in conse-
quence proprietors of the ecclesiastical appurtenances
of Soutra, and the patrons of its church. By the
seizure of its charity revenues, the ruin of its hospi-
tal, and the reduction, and afterwards the abandon-
ment of its church, the village of Soutra was sudden-
ly stripped of its importance, and brought to desola-
516
FALKIRK.
tion. The seat of conviviality and busy though
doubtful charity, of many public-houses, of a great
hospital and of a general refuge for the distressed
debtor, the weary traveller, the friendless pauper,
and the afflicted invalid, is now silent and wild, and
utterly abandoned to the lonely visits of the moun-
tain-sheep. Some hardly perceptible tumuli, over-
grown with herbage, faintly indicate the site of pros-
trate dwellings. Sbght irregularities of surface, with
not a tomb-stone or the small tumulus of a grave,
dimly mark the limits of a cemetery. A single aisle
of the chapel, rising amidst a dreary sward of heath,
and conservated from the common trackless ruin by
its enclosing the burial-place of the Maitland of Pog-
bie family, is the sole memorial of Soutra, and the
only monitor on this once-stirring and famous area of
the instability and utter vanity of the institutions
and erections of mortal man. The town of the
pleasant prospect, Soutra, which once looked joyous-
ly down upon the gay and far-spreading landscape of
the Lothians and the Forth, has utterly disappeared :
" Sweet smiling village, loveliest of the lawn,
Thy sports are fled, and all thy charms withdrawn ;
Sunk are thy bowers in shapeless ruin all,
And the long grass o'ertops the mouldering wall."
FALKIRK,* a parish in the eastern part of Stir-
lingshire ■ bounded on the north by Dunipace, Lar-
bert, and Bothkennar ; op the east by Polmont and
Muiravonside ; on the south by Slamannan and
Lanarkshire ; and on the west by Dumbartonshire
and Denny. In figure, it is nearly an oval, stretch-
ing north-east and south-west, but has a small flat-
tened oval attached to its south-east side. Its great-
est length, from Castlecary on the south-west, to
the boundary beyond Grangemouth on the north-east,
is 8^ miles ; and its greatest breadth, from Carron
water opposite Larbert on the north-west, to a bend
in Avon water, at Elrigg on the south-east, is 5|
miles ; but its average breadth is none or little more
than 3 miles. Nearly all its boundaries are traced
by streams. A head-stream of Bonny water rises at
Sauchierigg, on the southern boundary of the south-
west end of the great oval of the parish, and bends
away westward, northward, and north-eastward,
round the limits, receiving from without two streams
which combine with it to form the Bonny, and
everywhere, over a distance of 5J miles, tracing the
boundary till within a mile of the Carron, when it
runs across a small wing to make a confluence with
that river. Carron water touches the boundary 5
furlongs north-west of where the Bonny makes its
detour inward ; and thence, over a geographical dis-
tance of 6 miles, traces, in general, the boundary on
the north ; but, in the lower part of this course, it
becomes somewhat sinuous, and being rivalled in
sinuosity by the capriciousness of the boundary-line,
it intersects three tiny wings, and makes three brief
* The church was formerlycalled Ecclesbrae, or, 'the Church
on the brow,' and according with the descriptiveness of this
name, it and the town around it, stand on an eminence or ris.
iog ground which, on all sides, has a declivity or brae. In the
Gaelic language, it is called an Eglaia bhris, but more common-
ly Eg/ais bhiec. The former of these phrases signifies * the
Broken church;' and, as not inaptly translated, ' Falkirk,' or
1 the fallen,' or ' falling church.' Nor may the name have been
without allusion : the parish place of worship which preceded
the preseut oue, having presented undoubted appearances of
not being all built at one epoch. In 1 IliG, it was given by the
Bishop of St. Andrews to the monks of Holyrood ; and, as it
now became a mere vicarage, and may have suffered neglect,
it possibly fell into ruin, and assumed the properties, and con-
sequently the name, of a 'fallen-kirk.' The other Gaelic de-
signation, eglais b/trec, signifies ' the Spotted church,1 and is
adopted by Buchanan in the translated name, * Varium Sacel-
lum,' applied by him to Falkirk, and supposed to allude to the
party-coloured appearance of its stones. Another derivation
of the modern name, is from vallum and kirk, easily transrnu-
table into Falkirk, and signifying 'the church upon the wall,'
in allusion, as is alleged, to the near vicinity of the wall of An-
toninus.
recessions, all within If mile of Grangemouth. West
Quarter burn rises at the line of attachment be-
tween the main body or large oval of the parish, and
the small flattened oval, runs to the limit of the for-
mer, and flowing north-eastward and northward, tra-
ces the boundary over a distance of 6 miles, and then
at Grangemouth falls into the Carron. Avon water
rises 3 furlongs south of the source of West Quarter
burn, flows 2j miles westward through the parish, and
thence rims south-westward, south-eastward, and
eastward, tracing, over a distance of H miles, the
boundary with Dumbartonshire, Lanarkshire, and
Slamannan. Four rills rise in the parish, three of which
run northward to the Bonny or the Carron, and one
eastward to West Quarter burn. Near the southern
extremity, Loch Elrigg, a narrow boggy lochlet
about 6 furlongs long, sends off its superfluent wa-
ters in a brief stream to the Avon. In the south-
western part of the great oval, is a tiny lochlet,
called Loch Green At its north-east end, "the parish
approaches within J of a mile of the Forth ; and from
its boundary in that direction, till near the town of
Falkirk, as well as farther inland along the banks of
the Carron, it is a sheet of perfectly level and ex-
ceedingly rich and fertile land. But fame has com-
pletely anticipated any modern topographical writer
in proclaiming through Scotland the opulence and
the peerless agricultural beauty of " the carse of
Falkirk." Behind the carse, the surface slowly
rises, and becoming quite changed in the character
of its soil, belongs, for the most part, to the class
of dryfield. Though it is here materially less fer-
tile, and presents a different picture to the eye, yet
it possesses, in the undulations and softly hilly and
variegated risings of its surface, and in its fine enclo-
sures and thriving woods, its villas and burgh and
multitudinous human dwellings, not a few features
of interest which challenge and fix the attention of
a tourist. But in the small oval of the parish, or the
tract which marches with Slamannan, the whole sur-
face was originally a dull and gloomy bog ; and even
with the aids and results of georgical operation, still
retains a strong dash of its pristine appearance. Yet
nowhere than in this parish as a whole has agricul-
tural skill been more vigorously plied or more suc-
cessful in improvements. Almost every useful novel-
ty in the art of husbandry which appears in other dis-
tricts, is copied or adopted ; and the farmers are con-
spicuous for the enterprising spirit which has won
fame to Stirlingshire as an agricultural county. Coal
is so good and abundant as fully to compensate —
especially in connexion with unusually rich facilities
of water and land communication. — for the absence of
other valuable minerals. Some of the more elevated
parts of the parish — including not only eminences, but
such stretches of territory as permit a tourist or tra-
veller to move along and possess a continuous en-
joyment of the intellectual treat — are hung round by
a panorama of no common beauty. The view from
the manse and churchyard of Falkirk, is noticed by
Sir Walter Scott, as one of the finest in Scotland.
From this point, or from other places northward and
north-westward of the town, a luxuriant country,
12 or 14 miles square, spreads out before the eye, al-
most luscious in the beauties of its vegetation, dotterj
with mansions and rural spires, picturesquely chequer-
ed in its tracery by the tall masts and the intricate
rigging of ships passing along the canal or harboured
at Grangemouth, intersected by the opening estuary
of the frith of Forth bearing along its sail-clad ships
or its smoking steamers, and shut in by the fine out-
line of the Ochil hills, over whose summits look up
in the far distance the cloud- wreathed or snow-cap-
ped tops of some Highland mountains. When this
prospect is mantled in the darkness of night, crimson
FALKIRK.
517
and lurid Bastes bursting fitfully up from the Carron
iron-works, give it an aspect like that of beauty
conflicting with death ; and, when refracted by a
thick and moist atmosphere, or borne down by a
pressure of clouds, assume by turns a majestic, or
a sublime and awful appearance. A hill on the
grounds of Mr. Forbes of Callendar, a little to the
south-east of Falkirk, commands a prospect scarcely
inferior in beauty, and considerably greater in extent,
and one which Bruce, the traveller to the sources of
the Nile, declared to be finer than any which he had
seen in the whole course of his wanderings The
Carron works, though not in the parish, stand close
on its boundary, not 2 miles distant from the town,
and have an intimate connexion with both its popu-
lation and its interior trade. See Carron. The
principal estate is that of Callendar: which see.
The Forth and Clyde canal commences at the north-
east limit of the parish at Grangemouth; runs south-
westward past Grahamston and Camelon ; is carried
over the Glasgow and Edinburgh north road, at the
latter place, by a short and low-arched aqueduct; now
bends westward till it nearly touches Bonny water,
the boundary-line of the parish, at Bonny mill; and
thence runs south-westward along the bank of Bonny
water till it enters Dumbartonshire at Woodneuk ;
thus intersecting the parish at its greatest length,
and describing a course through it of 9 miles. About
4.1 miles from its commencement, at a point where
it has been raised by 16 locks from the level of the
sea, it sends off, on its south side, the Edinburgh
Union canal. The latter, immediately on retiring,
describes the arc of a circle, and over that arc is lift-
ed up by a rapid series of locks, which have a shelv-
ing appearance, along the face of the gentle and
curved acclivity ; it then runs a mile eastward, pene-
trates the body of a hill, and passes through it in a
tunnel upwards of half-a-mile in length ; and after
a further course of li mile, first south-eastward, and
next eastward, passes away into Polmont. See ar-
ticles Forth and Clyde Canal, and Union Canal.
— The Edinburgh and Glasgow railway also inter-
sects the parish, and will send off a branch to Fal-
kirk ; and it is in contemplation to carry a line of
railroad from Falkirk to Stirling : see article Edin-
burgh and Glasgow Railway. The north road
between Edinburgh and Glasgow stretches nearly due
east and west 6 miles within the limits of the parish,
and goes through Laurieston, Falkirk, and Camelon.
At the last of these places, the road to Stirling
branches off, but runs along only l-l mile before pass-
ing into Larbert. Other roads are so numerous and
intricately ramified that to trace them would be in-
sufferably tedious. The towns or villages, besides
the burgh of Falkirk, and its suburb of Grahamston,
are, Grangejiocth, Camelon, Laurieston, and
Brainsford : which see. Population of the parish,
in 1801, 8,838; in 1831, 12,743. Houses 1,646.
Assessed property, in 1815, £22,298.
In the barony of Seabegs, in this parish, are several
of those artificial earthen mounds, called moats, which
occur in so many localities in Scotland, and were an-
ciently the seats of justiciary courts and deliberative
assemblies. In various places, urns filled with ashes,
and stone coffins containing human bones, have been
dug up ; and in the hollow of a free-stone quarry near
Castlecary, some wheat was found, 70 years ago, which
had become black, and was supposed to have lain
concealed from the period of the Roman possession.
In several parts of the parish are traces of Antoni-
nus' Wall : which see. From the line of this wall,
nearly opposite Callendar house, an earthen wall of
considerable height and thickness, without a fosse —
broad at the top, and designed apparently to be both
a road and a line of defence — branches off eastward,
runs through West Quarter house garden, and passes
away toward the old castle of Almond. Though it
can hardly, if at all, be traced beyond that castle, it
may be presumed to have originally extended to the
Roman camp in Linlithgow, on the spot which after-
wards became the site of the royal palace. Old
Camelon — houses and streets of which were traceable
at a comparatively late date — was anciently a Roman
town; and is even spoken of — fabulously, we suspect
— as the scene of opulence and royal adornings at the
period when the Romans took possession : see Ca-
melon. The parish of Falkirk is notable in history
as the scene of two important battles. The first
battle of Falkirk was fought on the 22d of July,
1298, between Scottish and English armies, headed
respectively by Sir AVilliam Wallace, the guardian
of Scotland, and Edward I. of England. The Scot-
tish army, consisting of 30,000 men, collected by
Wallace and other chiefs, took post somewhat more
than half-a-mile north of the town of Falkirk, to
await the approach of the English; and were drawn
up in three — the English writers say four — divi-
sions of a circular form, with their spears advanced
horizontally, and with intermediate lines or bodies of
archers. While Wallace had the chief command,
Sir John Comyn of Badenoch, Sir John Stewart of
Bonkill, Sir John Graham of Abercorn, and Macduff,
the uncle of the Earl of Fife, shared his responsibili-
ties, and appeared with him in the field. The Eng-
lish army, amounting, according to some accounts,
to 86,000 foot, but really consisting of a conjectural
number of infantry, and a fine body of veteran caval-
ry, who constituted the main strength, advanced in
three great bodies ; the first led by the Earl Marshal
and the Earls of Hereford and Lincoln, the second
by the Bishop of Durham and Sir Ralph Basset de
Drayton, and the third — which was probably intend-
ed as a corps de reserve — by King Edward in per-
son. A morass which was in front of the Scottish
army, but is now drained by the canal, considerably
embarrassed the English in their attack The first
division, advancing with great ardour, became mo-
mentarily embarrassed, and found that they could not
rush onward to the front of the foe; but, turning to
the left they found firm ground, and ran down upon
the Scottish army's flank. The second division,
more wary of the ground, and hurried on by the im-
petuosity of Sir Ralph Basset, their commander,
assailed the left wing of the Scots almost at the mo-
ment of the first division charging the right. The
Scots made so brave a resistance that the English,
depending mainly on their cavalry, could not, for
some time, make any impression; but eventually
they were thrown into disorder, and subjected to
fearful carnage. Stewart and his division were sur-
rounded ; and, after a gallant defence, both the com-
mander and the most of his troops were hewn down.
Wallace, for a brief period, continued the combat
against the whole power of the enemy ; till seeing
himself about to be attacked in the rear and sur-
rounded, he retreated with such valour and military
skill as to cross the Carron, at a ford near Arthur's
Oven, in view of the victorious army. Though no
monuments exist on the field, there are two in its
vicinity. On the summit of a hill, a mile south-east
of Callendar wood, stands a stone 3 feet high, 1£
broad, and 3 inches thick, called Wallace' stone, com-
manding a full prospect of the field of action at the
distance of two miles, and probably marking the spot
on which Wallace took post previous to the battle.
In the churchyard of Falkirk, is the gravestone of
Sir John Graham, who fell in the action, and who, as
well as Sir John Stewart, was buried in the cemetery.
The gravestone has been trebly renovated ; or rather
there are three superincumbent stones, each of the
518
FALKIRK.
upper ones being a copy of the one beneath it. On
all are tbe following inscriptions :
* Mente Tianuque potens, Valla} fidus Achates,
Vondituc hie Gramus, bello interfectus ab Anglis.
xxii. Julii, anno 1298."
" Heir Ives Sir John the Grame, haith wight and wise
Ane of" the chiefs who resehewit Scotland thrice.
Ane betier knight not to the world was lent,
Nor was glide Graine of truth and hardiment."
The second battle of Falkirk was fought on the
17th of January, 1746, between 6,000 of the royal
troops, and about an equal or probably superior number
of the troops of Prince Charles Edward. While the
Pretender invested Stirling, Lieutenant-general Haw-
ley, at the head of the small royal army, marched from
Edinburgh to relieve the castle ; and arriving at Fal-
kirk, he encamped between the town and the former
field of battle, intending to wait there till he should
obtain sufficient intelligence for the effective arrange-
ment of his operations. His antagonists, so far from
being intimidated by his approach, resolved to attack
him in his camp ; and, marching from their rendezvous,
adroitly used such stratagems to divert and deceive
the royal troops, that they were about to cross the
Carron at Dunipace, before they were perceived.
Hawley, the commander, was not at the moment in
his camp ; but, finding his troops formed on his hur-
ried arrival from the vicinity, and seeing the High-
land infantry rapidly marching toward a hill upwards
of a mile south-west of his position, and about a mile
due south of the aqueduct bridge since erected, he
ordered his dragoons, consisting of three regiments, to
take possession of the hill, and commanded his in-
fantry to follow. The Highlanders won the race,
which was now run for the occupancy of the vantage-
ground, and drew up in a battle-array of two lines,
with a reserve in the rear. The royal troops, mak-
ing the most of their circumstances, formed in two
lines along a ravine in front of the enemy ; but, owing
to the convexity of the ground, saw their antagonist
force, and were seen in their turn, only in the cen-
tral part of the line. Their dragoons were on the
left, commanded by Hawley in person, and stretch-
ing parallel to more than two-thirds of the enemy's
position ; and their infantry were on the right, partly
in rear of the cavalry, and outlined by two regiments
the enemy's left. The armies standing within 100
yards of each other, both unprovided on the spot
with artillery, Hawley ordered his dragoons to ad-
vance, sword in hand. Meeting with a warm recep-
tion, several companies, after the first onset, and re-
ceiving a volley at the distance of 10 or 12 paces,
wheeled round, and galloped out of sight, disordering
the infantry and exposing their left flank by the flight.
The Highlanders taking advantage of the confusion,
outflanked the royal forces, rushed down upon them
with the broad sword, compelled them to give way,
and commenced a pursuit. The king's troops were
greatly incommoded by a tempest of wind and rain
from the south-west, which disturbed their vision
and wetted their gunpowder, but did not annoy their
antagonists ; and, but for the spirited exertions of two
unbroken regiments and a rally of some scattered
battalions, who checked the pursuers, they would
have been entirely routed. Prince Charles with his
army remained during the night at Falkirk, and next
day returned to Bannockburn. Hawley 's total loss in
killed, was 12 officers and 55 privates, and in killed,
wounded, and missing, 280. Among tbe persons of
rank who were left dead on the field, were Sir Ro- i
bert Munro of Foulis, Bart., and his brother Duncan,
a physician. They were buried beside each other in
the churchyard of Falkirk, and commemorated in a
superb monument erected over their ashes, and in-
scribed with a succinct statement of the circumstan-
ces of their death.
Falkirk is in the presbytery of Linlithgow, and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend £3.39 4s. 2d. ; glebe £20. Unap.
propriated teinds £1,474 18s. Id. Inconsiderably
populated parts of the parish, quoad civilia, are annex-
ed quoad sacra to the parishes of Slamannan and
Cumbernauld. The parish-church was built in 1811;
sittings 1,300 In 1838, a church connected with
the Establishment was erected at Grangemouth,
wholly at the expense of Lord Dundas. Sittings,
about 700. In the same year, from £1,300 to £1,400
had been raised toward the erection of three other
churches, respectively at Laurieston, Camelon, and
Brainsford ; all of which were designed to have an-
nexed to them quoad sacra parochial territories.
That at Laurieston was planned to accommodate 800
sitters, and those of Camelon and Brainsford, about
1,700. — The Relief congregation was established in
1770. The present church was built in 1800, at a
cost of from £1,400 to £1,500. Sittings 1,230.
Stipend £170, with about £10 sacramental expen-
ses, and a manse and garden, worth from £15 to £20.
The congregation has a library of upwards of 1,000
volumes The first United Secession congregation
was established in 1742-3, and their present place of
worship built in 1818 or 1820. Sittings 1,258. Sti-
pend £160, with a manse worth about £15. Tbe
congregation has a library The second United Se-
cession congregation was established in 1782. The
church was built in 1806, at a cost of £850 exclusive
of the materials of the old church. Sittings 580.
Stipend £145, with a manse and garden. — The con-
gregation of Original Burghers was established in
1804, and their church built in 1811. Sittings 566.
Stipend not known The Reformed Presbyterian
congregation was established about the year 1787.
The church was built in 1788, at an expense of pro-
bably about £300. Sittings nearly 300. Stipend
£85, with between £2 and £3 sacramental expenses,
and a manse and garden. — The first Baptist congrega-
tion in Falkirk, was established before the year 1808.
Their place of meeting is a house built for public
worship, and rented at £6. Sittings 300. Stipend
£50. The minister is chiefly salaried, and much
employed, as a home missionary The Scotch In-
dependent congregation was established about the
year 1832, and meets in a school-house rented at £2.
Sittings about 60 The second Baptist congregation
of Falkirk consists of about 12 members, and meets
in a house which they have fitted up as a place of wor-
ship The Baptist congregation of Grangemouth
consists of about 10 members. A Roman Catholic
place of worship was built in 1839. — There are two
parochial schools, one of them English, and the other
classical. The master of the former — which was estab-
lished in 1835 — has £34 besides fees, which, during
the 7 months succeeding the commencement of the
school, amounted to £24 ; and the master of the lat-
ter, who employs an assistant, has £17 2s. 2|d. sala-
ry, with £35 fees, and £8 6s. 8d. other emoluments.
There are 33 schools not parochial, conducted by 39
teachers, and attended by a maximum of 1,774 scho-
lars. One of them is a charity school ; 7 are held
in the evening; 12 are situated in Falkirk, 7 at
Grahamston, 2 at Brainsford, 4 at Grangemouth,
3 at Laurieston, 2 at Camden, 1 at Bonnybridge, 1
at Craigieburn, and 1 at Glenburn.
Large as the parish of Falkirk still is, it was for-
merly so extensive as to include the present parishes
of Denny, Slamannan, Muiravonside and Polmont.
AH of these, except the last, must have been detach-
ed from it at a very early period ; and Polmont was
detached in 1 724. When the estate of Callendar was
FALKIRK.
519
sold after its confiscation in 1715, such tithes as
were not made part of it, were conveyed under the
stipulation that they should be subject to the stipend
of a minister for a new parish to be detached from
Falkirk. Polmont accordingly draws stipend from
the parishes both of Falkirk and of Denny, in which
the estate is situated.
Falkirk, a parliamentary burgh, the capital of
the eastern part of Stirlingshire, and a town of con-
siderable importance, is situated in 55° 59' north la-
titude, and 3° 44' longitude west of Greenwich ; 1 1
miles east of Stirling, 24 east by north of Glasgow,
and 24 west of Edinburgh. It stands, as to its main
body, on a gently rising ground, dotted round in its
environs with neat and beautiful villas, and sending
off in different directions two elongated and thin
suburbs. Seen from the soft eminences to the north
and north-west, it presents, with its fine spire
and its thick grouping of buildings, a beautiful fore-
ground to the brilliant and fascinating landscape over
which it presides ; but, when entered, the town is
far from being in general of a pleasing aspect. An
utter want of uniformity or neatness or tastefulness
in its buildings, the absence of all spaciousness and
plan in the arrangement of its streets, and a deficien-
cy in the indications of enterprise and refinement in
the number or architecture of its public edifices, de-
preciate it as a town far below the importance which
belongs to it as a market, and as the seat of a great
population. Its High-street, or main street, indeed,
is, over most of its length, of half-a-mile from east to
west, wide and airy, — and has, in its wide parts, large
houses and good shops, — and, about its middle, sends
back in one side a recess in which stands the town-
ban ; but even this is uniform in nothing, mean in
some of its edifices, constantly changeful in its
breadth, and destitute ot the trivial grace of straight -
ness. Over nearly half its length, from a little west
of its middle eastward, the sides of this street are
subtended by mimic crowds of tiny streets, which
pressing in upon it at various angles of junction, or of
divergency from parallebsm, — though they do give the
town an extreme breadth of not more than 300 yards
— occasion more serious perplexity to a stranger than
he feels in two-thirds of the far-spreading New town
of Edinburgh. The branch-streets, and their diver-
gent and intersecting alleys, are no fewer than about
20 in number, several of them only about 100 yards
in length, some of them not more than about 60
yards ; and, with scarcely an exception, they are con-
lined, narrow, unpleasing thoroughfares. An area,
however, at the west end of the clustered part of the
town, and graced with the stately form of the parish-
church, fully partakes the airy appearance of the prin-
cipal part of the High-street. But the town, properly
viewed, is quite as remarkable for the straggling ex-
tension of its limbs away among cornfields, and an
open agricultural territory, as for the squeezing up
of its main body within oriental street limits. Both
the east and the west ends of its High-street are, in
fact, solitary street lines which look as if they were
wandering away from the town with which they com-
municate. Another thoroughfare, called Kerse-lane,
after being reached by angular turnings, or irregular
debouchings through the north wing of the town,
straggles away in utter loneliness upwards of \ of a
mile on the road to Grangemouth. But, more sur-
prising than all, a thoroughfare leading due north
trom the area at the middle of the High-street, runs
onward to fully the distance of a mile 3£ times the
length of the body or compact part of the town, and
6 times its breadth ; and this enormous elongation,
over two-thirds of its way, is but a solitary street!
and over the other third, which is the central one,
Bends off branch streets averaging not more than 160
yards in length. The extreme third of it begins on
the north side of the canal, and is the village or
suburb of Brainsford, and the central third is the vil-
lage or suburb of Grahamstown. These suburbs owe
their rise to their being on the road to the great iron
works of Carron, leading down on the one side from
these works, and on the other from Falkirk to the
most convenient point on the canal. At Brainsford
a basin projects out from the canal; and a railway
communication comes up to this from the iron- works.
On the other or Grahamstown side of the canal, are
the premises of the Falkirk foundry. Grahamstown,
had it occupied an independent position, or been un-
associated as a suburb with a town of utterly irregu-
lar arrangement, would have been a village of pleas-
ing aspect, presenting, in its uniformity of plan, and
the spaciousness of its street called the Avenue, and
the villa form of several of its houses, a neat and or-
derly appearance. The steeple of the Town-hall in
the central area or market-place of Falkirk, was built
about 30 years ago, is 130 feet high, and presents
much elegance of outline. The parish-church, with
its Gothic windows, would be a finer fabric, had it
such an accompaniment in the form of tower or
steeple as should be in keeping with its own style.
Falkirk has branch-offices of the bank of Scotland,
the National bank, the Clydesdale bank, and the
Commercial bank of Scotland ; public reading rooms ;
public libraries ; a school of arts ; a geological socie-
ty ; and several friendly societies.
Falkirk is not, in the strict sense, a manufacturing
town. Its principal manufacture appears to be
leather; but even this is not of considerable extent.
The town has no factories, but, in 1838, it had 180
hand-looms for the weaving of cottons. The foun-
dry at Grahamstown, the basin and railway termi-
nus at Brainsford, a distillery half-a-mile farther
down the canal, intermediate extensive corn-mills,
and a yard for the repair of barges and boats, em-
ploy many persons, and occasion stir and an appear-
ance of prosperity in the suburbs. But the grand
importance of Falkirk consists subordinately in its
being the depot of the internal trade for a consider-
able circumjacent district, and primely in its having
great fairs or 'trysts' — the greatest in Scotland, and
probably in Great Britain — for the exposure and
sale of black cattle, sheep, and horses. The trysts
are held thrice a-year, on the 2d Tuesday of August,
the 2d Monday of September, the 2d Monday of
October, and following days, generally for three
days at a time. Pennant mentions that the number
of cattle yearly exposed for sale at these trysts,
when he visited Scotland in 1772, amounted to
24,000. Dr. Graham, in his ' View of the Agricul-
ture of Stirlingshire,' published in 1812, states that
at the first or August trvst there are generally ex-
hibited from 5,000 to 6,"000 black cattle; at the
September tryst about 15,000 black cattle, and
15,000 sheep ; and at the October tryst from 25,000
to 30,000, and even 40,000 black-cattle, and about
25,000 sheep. At the last two trysts, especially at
that of October, a great number of horses are also
exposed to sale. " Thus it appears," says Dr. Gra-
ham, "that there are annually exhibited at these
trysts above 50,000 black cattle, together with about
40,000 sheep. Taking the former at the moderate
average value of £8, and the latter at that of 15s.
each, the value of the whole will amount to £430,000.
An intelligent friend who lives near the spot calcu-
lates that 50,000 black cattle are exposed to sale at
the last two trysts alone ; and he estimates on good
ground that the total value of the cattle bought and
sold at these trysts must amount to half-a-million
sterling. All the black cattle brought to these mar-
kets are lean stock intended for wintering. But the
520
FALKIRK.
number, it is remarked, has of late been diminishing,
owing to many dealers being now in the habit of
driving their own cattle to England instead of dis-
posing of them at these fairs to English dealers,
who are the principal purchasers." The remark,
however, is not confirmed by the later accounts
which we have received. A correspondent in Fal-
kirk who has good opportunities of being acquainted
with the amount of business transacted at the trysts,
informs us that at the last October tryst (1840) not
fewer than from 80,000 to 90,000 black cattle, and
and from 90,000 to 100,000 sheep appeared upon the
ground. This number, indeed, was rather greater
than that which is usually exposed to sale, but the
same correspondent informs us that at least 300,000
head of cattle appear at the various trysts through-
out the year. We give this statement as sent us,
without pledging ourselves to its perfect accuracy.
Our correspondent, though he may have somewhat
overrated the numbers, has, we believe, good oppor-
tunities of being well-informed on the subject. Nor
can there be any doubt that the number of cattle
brought to this great fair is immense. For many
days previous to the two last trysts, all the highways
which lead from the north to the trysting-ground
exhibit, from morning to night, an almost uninter-
rupted line of sheep and oxen. As an instance
of their multitudinousness our informant mentions
that a few years ago some unexpected obstacle
having presented itself at the St. Ninian's toll-bar
to the passing of the droves, the whole line of road
northward from that point as far as to Sheriffmuir,
a distance of not less than 5 or 6 miles, was, in the
course of a few hours, completely blocked up. The
stir which the trysts occasion in the neighbourhood
may readily be conceived to be very great. The
inns at and around Falkirk are completely occupied
for several days before each market. Not less than
a hundred large and commodious tents are erected
on the ground for the purpose of affording refresh-
ments to the crowds which resort thither, and
agents of the principal banks in Scotland always at-
tend for the purpose of facilitating monetary trans-
actions. The ground on which the Falkirk trysts
are held is about 3 miles to the north-west of the
town, on a large uncultivated field called Stenhouse-
muir, on the estate of Stenhouse, and in the parish
of Larbert. They have been held here since about
the year 1775. Before that time the trysts were
held for many years on the Bonnymoor, about 4
miles to the west of Falkirk ; and at a still more
remote period they were held on the Reddingrig-
rnoor, still a large uncultivated piece of ground, on
an elevation in which a monument to Sir William
Wallace was erected in 1810.
Falkirk is a town of considerable antiquity, and
the site of one of those military stations on the
Roman wall, known by the name of the Forts of
Agricola, — hence a number of the relics of the
Roman people have been found from time to time in
that place and the neighbourhood. About thirty years
ago there were discovered at Parkhouse, about a
quarter of a mile to the north-west of Falkirk, two
urns containing human bones, which bore evident
marks of having been subjected to the action of fire :
these must have been Roman, for no other people
ever possessed this country with whom incremation
was a customary practice. About ten or twelve
years ago a number of fragments of earthenware
were dug up in a garden in the Pleasance of Falkirk,
and among them one vessel, round the margin of
which the word ' Nocturna,' was legible ; they were
generally unglazed, of a white or brown colour, and
some ornamented with raised figures on the outer
»urface. A piece of ornamental brass, that apparently
had been used as the top of a Bag-staff, was also dis-
covered near Camelon, by workmen employed in
digging the foundations of a distillery It is sup-
posed to have once been wholly comprehended within
the ancient barony of Callendar. After having be-
come dependant first on the see of St. Andrews, and
next on the abbey of Holyrood, its lands came to
be included in the extensive barony and lordship or
Kerse, belonging to this abbey, which was, in 1 393,
erected by Robert III. into a free regality. At the
Reformation, the monastry of Holyrood feued out its
temporal possessions to Sir John Bellendean, Lord-
justice-clerk, whose son, Sir Lewis, obtained in 1587
a Crown-charter from James VI. of these acquisi-
tions, which were constituted into the new barony
ofBroughton. The barony of Kerse, called Abbots-
Kerse, comprehending the lands of Falkirk, and the
patronage of the church, was included in this new
barony. In 1606, Sir Lewis Bellendean conveyed
the lands of Falkirk to his brother-in-law, Alexander,
7th Lord Livingstone, who possessed the barony of
Callendar. The family of Livingstone obtained the
barony of Callendar in the reign of David II. Part
of the town of Falkirk held of this family. In 1600
James VI. granted a charter of novo damns in favour
of Alexander Lord Livingstone, of the barony of
Callendar, in which the town of Falkirk was erected
into a free burgh-of-barony, with privileges of mer-
chandise and artificers, as in other free burghs, and
with power to Lord Livingstone of creating bur-
gesses, holding weekly markets, having two fairs
annually, of electing bailies and other officers for the
government of the burgh, and of holding courts within
the burgh. This charter also contained a grant of
regality, but which it was provided should evacuate
on payment of £10,000, said to be due to Lord Liv-
ingstone by the Crown. In 1634 Alexander, Earl of
Linlithgow, granted the barony of Callendar to his
brother, Sir James Livingstone, who was created by
Charles I. successively Lord Almond and Falkirk,
and Earl of Callendar. In 1637 the Bishop of Edin-
burgh, to whose see the possessions of the abbots of
Holyrood had been annexed, with consent of his
dean and chapter — the minister of Falkirk being one
of his prebendaries — conveyed to Lord Almond, by
charter of Novo damns, the whole barony of Falkirk,
with all the feudal casualties and powers formerly
held by the abbots of Holyrood. This charter con-
firmed the grant of Alexander Earl of Linlithgow to
Lord Almond, and conveyed a power to the grantee
of bailiary and justiciary, &c. In 1646 the Earl of
Callendar obtained a charter from the Crown, erect-
ing his estates, including the baronies of Callendar
and Falkirk, into a free regality, to be called the re-
gality of Callendar, with the usual powers and privi-
leges. By this charter, the town of Falkirk, as well
that part of it which from ancient times was held of
the abbots of Holyrood as the remaining part of the
town which was from ancient times part of the
barony of Callendar, is united and erected into one
whole and free burgh-of-regality, to be called the
burgh of Falkirk. Power is given to build a court
and prison, to erect a market-cross, to elect and
name bailies and other magistrates, to create free
burgesses, with liberty to them to sell all staple
goods and others imported from within or without
the kingdom, and generally to exercise all the privi-
leges of a burgh of regality. There is also a grant
of two weekly market-days and four free fairs, with
power to the earl and his bailies to draw the cus-
toms of the fairs and markets, and to apply them as
they think proper. This charter was ratified by
parliament, March 27th, 1647 ; but the ratification
is now lost. The estate of Callendar, on the earl's
resignation, passed to Alexander Lord Livingstone,
FAL
521
FAL
his nephew, wbo, in 1663, obtained a charter from
Charles II., which recites the charter of Charles I.,
ind besides conferring various privileges, and con-
stituting the whole estates of the grantee into an
earldom, it of new erects the town of Falkirk, with
the pertinents thereof, into a free burgh-of-regality,
with all the privileges in the charter recited. The
town continued to hold of the family of Livingstone
till the attainder, in 1715, of the Earl of Linlithgow
and Callendar. During the time of the estate of
Callendar being held by the York buildings' com-
pany, there was always a resident baron-bailie ; and,
after it was acquired by Mr. Forbes, a person con-
tinued to be appointed by him to that office till
about the end of the last century. Since then the
office has been vacant, and the old barony jail was
allowed to go to ruin, and afterwards removed.
The management of the affairs of the town and com-
munity became now vested in two separate bodies,
the stent-masters and the committee of feuars. The
sttnt-masters are a very ancient body, and their re-
cords go back more than 150 years. They are elect-
ed annually, and are 24 in number : four being chosen
by the merchants, two by each of the trades of ham-
mermen, wrights, weavers, shoemakers, masons, tai-
lors, bakers, and brewers, and four from the suburbs
of the town. Every person who carries on business
in any of these trades is qualified to vote for and be
elected a stent-master of his craft. After election
the stent-masters name out of their body a preses
and treasurer, and they have also a clerk. The
stent-masters are the governing body in the town,
and their powers are founded on immemorial usage.
They have no jurisdiction, however, and apply to
the sheriff by ordinary action, in name of their preses
and treasurer, to have their decreets enforced ; and,
it is said, that judge has uniformly supported their
authority. The committee of feuars is of more re-
cent origin. The greater part of the town is held
feu of the estate of Callendar. The feuars had by
their titles generally a right of pasturage, and of feal
and divot, and quarrying stones in the muir of Fal-
kirk. But a declarator of division of the commonty
having been brought by the proprietor of Callendar,
the feuars obtained by a decree of the court of ses-
sion, in return for a renunciation of their rights
of property, commonty, or servitude in the muir,
certain important privileges and immunities. Since
the date of this decree the feuars have held meetings
as a separate body. They elect a preses, treasurer,
and clerk, and keep a record of their proceedings.
The property of the town consists of its water-
works and wells ; of a piece of land called the wash-
ing-green ; of Callendar riggs, extending to about an
acre, on which the markets are held; of the customs
of the town, formerly levied by the superior ; and
of the town's steeple, with a shop under it. The
debts of the town amount to about £1,700, bor-
rowed on bills granted by the preses and treasurer
of the stent-masters. This debt has been contracted
principally on account of the town's water- works and
the steeple, to erecting which the feuars contributed
£500. The revenue arises chiefly from an assess-
ment collected from the inhabitants under the name
of stent, or water-money, amounting to about £200
per annum. The town draws besides £14 per an-
num for the shop under the steeple. The annual
expenditure is estimated at £174 2s. The powers
of the stent-masters extend over the regality, which
includes some arable land, but excludes the suburbs
of Grahamstown, Brainsford, &c, which are compre-
hended within the parliamentary boundary. The
stent has never been levied in these suburbs ; but
this has not proceeded, it is said, from any opposi-
tion being apprehended to its payment, but because
the inhabitants have not the benefit of the water, on
which account it is chiefly levied. There is no
burgh -jurisdiction of any sort ; but justice-of-peace
courts for the district are held in the town once
a-month. There is no corporation or persons now
possessed of exclusive privileges. During the exis-
tence of the regality powers in the family of Living-
stone, burgesses were created, and corporations of
craftsmen erected. The burgesses were admitted
by the superior himself, who subscribed the burgess
ticket. The corporations appear to have had char-
ters from the superior, one of which to the hammer-
men, dated 1st July, 1689, is still extant, granting
them exclusive privileges, and giving power to choose
a deacon and box-master. These privileges are now
obsolete, and the only remnant of the privileges of
the corporations is their voice, as separate bodies, in
choosing the stent-masters. By the Act 3 and 4
William IV. c. 77, the town of Falkirk has obtained
a municipal constitution. The council consists of
twelve, viz., a provost, three bailies, a treasurer, and
seven councillors. There is no local statute provid-
ing for the police of the town, and it has not yet
thought fit to take advantage of the general police act
lately passed. There is a police-constable appointed
by the sheriff of the county; and a sheriff-substitute,
and the procurator-fiscal for the eastern district of
Stirlingshire reside in Falkirk. On any emergency
the inhabitants watch the town, under the name of
the town-guard. There is no jail in the town, and
the nearest one is that of Stirling. Falkirk unites
with Linlithgow, Hamilton, Lanark, and Airdrie, in
returning a member to parliament.
FALKLAND,* a parish in the Cupar district of
Fifeshire, about 5 miles in length from east to west,
and about 2i miles in breadth from north to south at
its two extremities, but about 3i miles in breadth at the
centre. It is bounded by the parishes of Portmoak,
Leslie, and Markinch on the south ; by those of
Markinch and Kettle on the east ; by Kettle and
Stratkmiglo on the north; and by the parish of
Strathmiglo on the west. The surface is beauti-
fully diversified ; and in many places finely orna-
mented with wood. At the north, near the Eden,
there is a considerable tract of level ground, which
ascends as we proceed south, until it rises into the
East Lomond hill, and the high ridge which connects
it with the West Lomond ; and on the south of this
range it descends until it joins the parish of Leslie ;
but the lowest elevation of the southern part of the
parish is considerably above that of the northern por-
tion near the Eden. In the general landscape of this
portion of the county, the range of the Lomonds,
with the two lofty peaks which form their eastern
and western terminations, are beautiful and interest-
ing features ; and the different views from their sum-
mits are extensive and finely diversified. The height
of the East Lomond hill in this parish, as ascertained
by the Trigonometrical survey made under the direc-
*"The name of this place," says Dr. Jamieson, ['Royal
I Palaces of Scotland,' Edu. 1830, p. 29,] " apparently claims a
] Gothic origin. It may have been formerly known from some
celebrated breed of kawks. q. Falcon-land ; from Suio-Gothic
folk, A. S. vfialh, Tent, valck, a species of hawk. This, how-
'■ ever, innst be left as uncertain, because of the variations in the
| orthography of names: for this is not only written Falkland,
■ Faulkland, Faukland, and, by Irvin, Falcoland ,■ but in a ehar-
i ter of Malcolm IV. A. 1160, mention is made of Scradimigglock,
Faleckten, Radliulit, and Catlel, in which forms the names of
: Strathmiglo, Falkland, Rathillet, and Kettle, appear." An.
t ciently the name of this parish was Kilgour ; arising either
from the lands of Kilgour, about a roile from the burgh of
Falkland, where the church originally stood, or from the name
given to the church and now preserved by these lands. The
origio of the word Kilgour is not very obvious ; but Kil-our in
the Celtic means 'the Yellow church.' The name of the parish
seems to have been changed about the time that the church was
transferred from its old site to its present, within the burgh of
Falkland.
522
FALKLAND.
tion of the Board of Ordnance, is 1 ,466 feet above
the level of the sea, and 255 feet lower than the sum-
mit of the West Lomond in the parish of Strathmiglo :
see article The Lomonds. The parish is well-pro-
vided with roads, there being 6 miles, 1,330 yards of j
turnpike-roads; and 9 miles, 196 yards of statute-la-
bour roads, within it. — Of the ancient forest of Falk-
land, in which the Scottish kings so often enjoyed
the pleasures of the chase, nothing now remains, ex-
cept the natural wood at Drumdreel in the neigh-
bouring parish of Strathmiglo. It had been carefully
preserved, so long as Falkland remained a royal resi-
dence ; but it is probable that after the departure of
James VI. to England, less care had been taken of
it. It was utterly destroyed, however, in 1652, by
Cromwell, who ordered the trees to be cut down,
for the purpose of their being used in the construc-
tion of the fort he erected at Dundee. " This yeare,"
says Lamont, " the English beganne to cutt downe
Fackland wood; the most pairt of the tries were
oakes." — About a mile west of Falkland, amidst plea- I
sant and well-wooded enclosures, is Nuthill, the re-
sidence of Mr. Bruce. Farther west is Kilgour, |
where the old church once stood, also the property
of Mr. Bruce. On the south side of the Lomonds, i
and at the west end of the parish, a lead-mine was
at one time worked, and silver extracted from the
ore, but it has been long given up. As to this mine,
George Buist, Esq., in an essay on the Geology of
Fife, quoted by Mr. Leighton, says: " After a minute
and laborious inquiry, I was enabled to reach the
site of the East Lomond silver-mine, — for as such it
was worked, the galena being argentiferous. The
vein, which is externally covered over with earth,
seems to cut the sandstone and limestone which there
prevail from north-west to south-east. Judging from
the aspect of the rubbish still existing, the veinstone
seems to have been hornstone, or other siliceous mat-
ter. The mine was worked about sixty years since
at the expense of the then proprietor, Mr. Stewart
of East Conland, under the management of an Eng-
lishman of the name of Williamson. The water-
mine which drained it, is still visible, and the traces
of the workings are observable, partly obliquely by
the end and in front of the farm-house of the Hang-
ingmyre. Williamson seems to have been the Dous-
terswivel of his time, and managed to make the pro-
prietor take on himself the whole outlay, while he
appropriated all the returns. A considerable quan-
tity of metal was melted at temporary works erected
on the spot, and its silver said to have been extract-
ed. At length, under pretence that it would be
more profitable to transport the ore to England,
about 6 tons were sent to Perth for shipment ; and
Williamson himself absconded with the ore, leaving
his half-ruined employer unable to proceed farther
with the mining operations. It will thus be seen
that the lead-ore here has never yet been properly
searched for, or worked, and the mine may contain
metal worthy of more minute inquiry than has yet
been made with regard to it." — The population of
this parish in 1755, according to Dr. Webster, was
1,795. In 1801, it was 2,211 ; and in 1831, 2,658,
of whom about 2,100 are in connexion with the Es-
tablished church. Few parishes have made greater
advances in agricultural improvement than this. At
the time the first Statistical Account was written,
about one-half of the parish was pasture-ground ; but
since the division of the Lomonds, this is no longer
the case. The extensive drainage effected by the
late Mr. Bruce, and continued by his successor, has
reclaimed a great extent of ground ; and excellent
grain crops are now produced far up the Lomonds,
where formerly there was only pasture for sheep.
The soil of the parish is very varied ; but through-
out the whole of the northern part of the parish
especially, it has been improved by draining and en-
closures. The valued rent of the parish is £5,824
Scots. Assessed property, in 1815, £8,144 sterling.
— A great part of the population in the town of Falk-
land, and in the villages, are employed in the weaving
of linen goods of different descriptions. Dowlas and
sheeting are chiefly made for the manufacturers oi
Dundee, Newburgh, Cupar, and Ceres ; diaper and
towelling for the manufacturers of Dunfermline ;
and drills for those of Kirkcaldy and Dysart. There
are no manufacturers carrying on business on their
own account in the town of Falkland ; but one
manufactures dowlas and sheeting in the village of
Newton of Falkland ; and six are engaged in the
manufacture of window-blinds in the village of Freu-
chie This parish is in the presbytery of Cupar, and
Synod of Fife. Patron, Bruce of Falkland. Sti-
pend £252 8s. 8d. ; glebe £18. Unappropriated
teinds £842 18s. 3d. The church of Falkland is a
very old building, altered about 1770, situated in
the principal street of the town ; sittings 687. There
is a Secession chapel in the village of Freuchie,
[which see,] and a small Baptist meeting-house in the
town of Falkland The parish-school is in the town
of Falkland ; and the average attendance of scholars
is about 100. The schoolmaster has the maximum
salary, and £20 per annum in place of a house and
garden. There are two unendowed schools in the
town ; and there is also a well-attended school in the
village of Freuchie.
This parish contains several objects of antiqua-
rian interest, which Colonel Miller has endeavour-
ed to connect with the movements of the Roman
and British armies previous to the battle of Mons
Grampius, which he supposes to have been fought
at Mearlsford. " The fortifications on East Lo-
mond hill," he says, " have been perfected with
great labour, and very considerable skill, although
the works are irregular. On the summit there are
two works, 150 yards in circumference. There have
been four defences on the north side, the lower ditch
of which is carried through the rock in one place.
On the west side there is a ravelin which would not
disgrace a modern engineer ; and on the south side
there is a ditch about 100 yards below the summit,
and nearly 200 yards long, which has either been
filled in at the east end, or never finished. The re-
mainder of it is about six feet deep, and the earth is
thrown up in the inside to form a rampart, which is
still in excellent preservation. Between the East
and West Lomonds, and about half-way below these
summits, the ground presents the appearance of a
plain, sloping gently towards the east, although very
much broken. This, I conceive to have been the
position of the Caledonians previous to the battle.
This plain slopes gently down towards the neighbour-
ing country on the south side, which is still very swam-
py, and must then have been a bog, and impassable for
an army. Along the edge of this bog there still exist
what appear to me to be very distinct traces of forti-
fication, particularly at the farm of Glasslie, where
there are the remains of three circular forts surround-
ed by ditches, although much obliterated by the
plough. On the north side of the plain, a ledge of
rocks extends almost the whole way, which makes
the position very strong on that side ; except on the
north side of the West Law, where there has been a
slide of the mountain called the Hoglayers, by which
I conceive the Caledonians descended to battle. A
mile west of Falkland also, there is a part of the
mountain called the Greenhill, which projects from
the main ridge ; and between that and the East Law
the ground slopes gradually down to Falkland, which
renders the ascent on that side comparatively easy.
FALKLAND.
523
On the west side of the Greenhill there is also a nar-
row pass called the Arrities, on the west side of
which there is a chain of small circular forts amount-
ing to eight or nine ; and in the gorge between these
two there is an old fort in excellent preservation,
called the Maiden castle. It occupies an oval hill,
and is 400 yards in circumference. The ditch runs
round the base of it, and the earth is thrown out-
wards, owing to the steepness of the ground : the
scarp being in some places 20 feet high, and along the
northern brow of the hill there are traces of huts
having been excavated. On the east side of the cas-
tle, and a considerable distance. from it, there are five
or six small circular forts, some of which have been
built principally of stone." [' Inquiry on the Battle
of Mons Grampius,' pp. 17 — 22.] These various
works, Colonel Miller supposes to have been con-
structed when the Caledonians took up a position
here after their defeat at Lochore, and previous to
the great battle fought at Mearlsford. That they
are British forts there can be little doubt ; but whe-
ther they were all constructed at the period alluded
to, and for the purpose conjectured, or whether they
were constructed on different occasions and for other
purposes, it would be rash to decide West of Falk-
land, and on the lands of Nuthill, are the remains of
extensive lines which the Colonel supposes had been
constructed by the Roman general previous to his
taking up his position in the camp at Pitlour. These
works were quite entire about 40 years ago. " The
only part of them now remaining is six ditches, an
hundred yards distant from the base of the hill. The
greatest length of them is about 250 yards, but they
formerly extended about 50 yards farther east.
They lie upon the west end of a low ridge which
comes to a point; and do not run parallel to each
other, but follow the nature of the ground, and ap-
proximate towards the west ; several of them join ;
several of them are cut partly through rock, and are
still about 20 feet deep, but were formerly much
more. At their western extremity, a narrow valley-
cuts the position obliquely, through which a brook
runs ; and only two ramparts have been carried across
this valley, apparently for the purpose of forming an
inundation. On the north side of this, three im-
mense ramparts, with corresponding ditches, extend-
ed in a north-west direction about 800 yards. These
were levelled about twenty-two years ago, but can
still be partially traced. In front of the existing
ditches, which formed the centre of the position, but
a little to the right, and resting apparently upon the
inundation, two parallel ditches and ramparts com-
menced, and extending due east about 1,100 yards,
terminated opposite the East Law near to Falkland ;
but these works were not so large as the others, as
the ground was more favourable. These lines thus
formed an obtuse angle with the right thrown back
from the mountain, and they appear to have been
quite open to the rear. The centre is the weakest
point, and the nearest to the mountain ; hence the
extraordinary manner in which it has been fortified.
It is evident they must have been occupied with re-
ference to an enemy on the mountain above them.
This, I think, clearly appears from their proximity to
it, from the defences being all on that side, and from
its being altogether a forced position, and possessing
no natural advantages. Hence the skill and extraor-
dinary labour that have been required to make them
defensible. As far as I am able to judge, it must
have required the labour of as many bands as could
be employed on them at least a fortnight."
The town of Falkland stands at the north-east
base of the East Lomond hill, and consists of one
principal street, and some smaller streets and lanes.
Its appearance, taken in connexion with the palace
and the church, is, notwithstanding some modern
buildings, antique, and its situation pleasant and
agreeable. This town was originally a burgh-of-
barony belonging to the Earls of Fife ; but it was
erected into a royal burgh in 1458, during the reign
of James II. The preamble to the charter of erec-
tion states as the reasons for granting it, the frequent
residence of the royal family at the manor of Falk-
land, and the damage and inconvenience sustained by
the many prelates, peers, barons, nobles, and others
of their subjects, who came to their country-seat, for
want of innkeepers and victuallers. This charter
was renewed by James VI. in 1595. Among the
privileges which these charters conferred, was the
right of holding a weekly market, and of having four
fairs or public markets annually. To the public
markets two others were subsequently added, — one
called the lintseed market, held in Spring, and the
other the harvest market, held in Autumn. There
are now seven public markets held throughout the
year ; these occur in the months of January, February,
April, June, August, September, and November, and
are generally well-attended. Like the neighbouring
burgh of Auchtermuchty — although certainly entitled
originally to have done so — Falkland does not ap-
pear at any time to have exercised its right of
electing a member to the Scottish parliament; conse-
quently its privileges were overlooked at the time of
the Union ; but since the passing of the reform bill,
its inhabitants having the necessary qualification are
entitled to a vote in the election of a member for the
county. In all other respects, however, this burgh
enjoys the privileges of a royal burgh. It is govern-
ed by a town-council, consisting of 3 magistrates, 15
councillors, a treasurer, and a town-clerk. The
revenue of the burgh amounts, on an average of three
years, to about £60 yearly. The magistrates, be-
sides managing with the council the civil affairs of
the burgh, hold courts from time to time for the de-
cision of questions arising out of civil contracts, and
petty delicts. The town-house, which is ornament-
ed with a spire, was erected in 1802, and contains a
hall in which the burgh-courts and the meetings of
the town-council are held, and two rooms for a pri-
son, which, however, are but seldom used, except
for the temporary purpose of a lock-up-house. No
town probably in Scotland is better supplied with
spring- water. This was effected in 1781, by bring-
ing water from the neighbouring Lomonds by means
of pipes, and which is distributed by wells situated
in different parts of the burgh. This useful public
work cost about £400 sterling, and was executed
at the expense of the incorporation. There is no
guildry, neither are there any incorporated trades
within the burgh Although now little better than
a country village, Falkland must formerly have been
a place of great resort, and of considerable impor-
tance. The frequent residence of the royal family
at the palace, during the reigns of the three last
Jameses, brought — as we have seen — the nobility
and the wealthier of the lesser barons often to the
town, and many of them had residences within it or
in its immediate neighbourhood. A natural conse-
quence of this was, it may easily be supposed, the
superior refinement of the inhabitants; and 'Falkland
bred,' had become an adage. The superiority, how-
ever, of Falkland breeding is, like the former gran-
deur of the town and palace, now, alas! among the
things that were At the distance of about a mile
to the east of the burgh, is the village of Newton-
of-Falkland, and about another mile farther east is
the village of Freuchie ; both built on feus from
William Johnston, Esq., of Lathrisk. Sergeant Span-
kie, who has long been eminent at the English bar,
is a native of Falkland : his father having been minis-
524
FALKLAND.
fcer of the parish. The name of Mrs. Brown, wife
of the Rev. Andrew Brown, also minister here, has
necome well-known since the publication of ' the
Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border,' of Sir Walter
Scott, and the ' Popular Ballads and Songs' of Ro-
bert Jamieson, A.M., in consequence of the acknow-
ledgments by both these editors of the assistance they
received from that lady's great knowledge of the po-
pular poetry of Scotland. Richard Cameron, who for
ft time acted a conspicuous part in the resistance to
Episcopacy in the reign of Charles II., was born in
Falkland, where his father was a merchant. He was
originally himself an Episcopalian, and acted as school-
master of the parish, and precentor to the curate.
He appears afterwards to have attended the preach-
ing of the indulged Presbyterians, but ultimately to
have joined the party who refused the indulgence,
and sought the glens and the lonely muirs for their
places of worship. He was licensed to preach by the
ousted ministers, and soon became a leader of the
high party. His preaching, though highly accept-
able to the people who followed him, became most
obnoxious to the Government ; and, in 1680, a re-
ward of 5,000 merks was offered for his apprehension.
He was killed at Airdsmoss, in Ayrshire, the same
year : see that article.
The lands of Falkland, including what now consti-
tutes the burgh, belonged originally to the Crown ;
and were obtained from Malcolm IV. by Duncan,
6th Earl of Fife, the fifth in descent from Macduff,
upon the occasion of his marriage with Ada, the
niece of the king. In the charter conferring them,
which is dated in 1160, the name is spelled " Faleck-
len." The lands of Falkland continued, with the
title and other estates, with the descendants of Dun-
can, until 1371, when Isobel, Countess of Fife, the
last of the ancient race, conveyed the earldom and
estates to Robert Stuart, Earl of Monteith, second
son of Robert II., who thus became 1 6th Earl of Fife,
and was afterwards created Duke of Albany. On
the forfeiture of his son, Murdoch, in 1424, the lands
of Falkland reverted to the Crown; and the town
was shortly afterwards erected into a royal burgh.
The court of the stewartry of Fife — which compre-
hended only the estates of the earldom — was also
removed from the county-town of Cupar to Falk-
land, where they were afterwards held as long as
the office of steward existed. In 1601, Sir David
Murray of Gospetrie, 1st Viscount Stormont, ob-
tained a charter of the Castle-stead of Falkland,
with the office of ranger of the Lomonds, and fores-i
ter of the woods; and he also held the office of
captain or keeper of-the palace, and steward of the
stewartry of Fife. The lands called the Castle-
stead, with the offices and other parts of the lands
of Falkland, were afterwards acquired by John, 1st
Duke of Athol, who was appointed one of his Ma-
jesty's principal secretaries of state in 1696, and
lord-high-commissioner to the Scottish parliament
the following year. He was twice appointed to the
office of keeper of the Privy seal, and was made an
extraordinary lord of session in 1712. The lands
and offices thus connected, afterwards, so far as not
abolished in 1746, came into the possession of the
family of Skene of Halyards, from whom they were
purchased by the late J. Bruce, Esq., descended
from the family of Bruce of Earlshall, one of his
Majesty's printers for Scotland. At his death, he
was succeeded in these estates — consisting of 1025
acres — by his niece, Miss Bruce, now the wife of
O. Tyndale Bruce, Esq. — Falkland gives the title
of Viscount to the English family of Carey ; Sir
Henry Carey being created Viscount Falkland by
James VI., 1620.
At an early period, the Earls of Fife had a residence
here, called the castle of Falkland. Not a vestige of
this building now remains, but its site appears to have
been in the immediate neighbourhood of where the
palace was afterwards built, on a part of what now
forms the garden of Mr. Bruce. This fortalice had
in effect the honours of a palace, while it was occu-
pied by one of the blood-royal, Robert, Duke of
Albany, who, for thirty-four years, had all the
power of the state in his hands, under the different
titles of lieutenant-general, governor, and regent.
Although Robert gives it the more humble designa-
tion of " Manerium nostrum de Fawkland," it was in
fact the seat of authority ; for his aged and infirm
father constantly resided in the island of Bute. It
receives its first notoriety, in the history of our
country, from the horrid cruelty here perpetrated by
Albany on his nephew David, Duke of Rothesay,
eldest son of Robert III. The governor, in conse-
quence of the great promise of this young prince,
fearing that he would prove the rival of his power,
used the basest means to prejudice his imbecile
father against him, and prevailed with him to issue
an order to arrest and confine him for some time, it
being represented to him that this was necessary for
curbing the violent humours of the youth. Being
inveigled, under false pretences, into Fife, he was
shut up in the tower of Falkland, where he was
consigned to the cruel fate of dying by famine. His
life was for some days feebly sustained by means of
thin cakes, pushed through a small crevice in the
wall,* by a young woman, daughter to the governor
of the castle ; but her mercy being viewed by her
ruthless father in the light of perfidy to him, she
was put to death. Even this brutal act did not
deter another tender-hearted female, employed in
the family as a wet-nurse, who supplied him with
milk from her breasts by means of a long reed, until
she, in like manner, fell a sacrifice to her compassion.
After the lands and castle of Falkland came to the
Crown, by the forfeiture of the earldom, the first
three James's occasionally resided at the castle, en-
joying the pleasures oi the chase in the adjoining
forest, and on the Lomond hills ; and in consequence
of this the charter was granted by James II., erect-
ing the town into a royal burgh. It is impossible
now to ascertain whether James III. or James IV.
began to build the palace, as both of these monarchs
were fond of architecture, and both of them em-
ployed workmen at Falkland; but the work was
completed by James V., and the palace from that
time became a favourite residence with the Scottish
monarchs. Here James V. held his court in all the
barbaric magnificence of the period; and here he
died of grief, at the disgrace brought upon his Crown
and his country by the opposition of his factious and
turbulent nobifity. Here Mary of Guise, his widowed
queen, often resided, while she governed the king-
dom for her infant-daughter; and here she found it
necessary to give her reluctant consent to the armis-
tice agreed to at Cupar-muir, between the lords of
the Congregation, and the Duke of Chatelherault
and Monsieur D'Oysel. Here, too, the unfortunate
Mary, after her return from France, oft sought
relief in the sports of the field from the many
troubles of her short but unhappy reign. She ap-
pears first to have visited it in September, 1561,
on her way from St. Andrews to Edinburgh. f She
* Bellenden states it differently : "It is said, ane woman
hauand commiseralioun on tliis duk, leit meill fall doon throw
the loltis of the toure." This more literally expresses tlie
meaning of Boece's language : " Per strictum quoddara fora-
men larinam fundens,11 &c.
f When, according to Buchanan, a plot had been laid l.y
Bothwell and the Hamiltoos to take away the life of her natu-
ral brother, the Earl of Murray, that the queen might be com.
pletely in their power, Bothwell urged that the method of
compassing it was easy. The Oucen beine then at Falkland,
FALKLAND.
52£
returned in the beginning of the following year,
having left Edinburgh to avoid the brawls which
had arisen between Arran and Both well; and re-
sided partly at Falkland, and partly at St. Andrews,
for two or three months. She occupied her morn-
ings in hunting on the banks of the Eden, or in trials
of skill in archery, in her garden; and her afternoons
in reading the Greek and Latin classics with Bu-
chanan, or at chess, or with music. During 1563,
after her return from her expedition to the north,
she visited this palace, where she made various short
excursions to places in the neighbourhood ; and again,
in 1564, and after her marriage with Darnley in
1565. After the birth of her son, she visited Falk-
land, but this appears to have been the last time, as
the circumstances which so rapidly succeeded each
other, after the murder of Darnley, and her marriage
with Bothwell, left her no longer at leisure to enjoy
the retirement it had once afforded her. James VI.,
while he remained in Scotland, resided often at the
palace of Falkland, and indeed it seems to have been
his favourite residence. After the raid of Ruthven,
James retired here, calling his friends together for
the purpose of consulting as to the best means of
relieving himself from the thraldom under which he
had been placed; and he was again at Falkland in
1593, when the Earl of Bothwell made one of his
desperate attempts on the king's person, which led
to the imprisonment of Wemys,
' The wanton laird o' young Logie,'
whose escape forms the subject of an ancient ballad.
After the riots in Edinburgh, in 1596, James again
retired here, where he employed himself partly in
hunting, and partly in plotting the destruction of
the Presbyterian religion, and the introduction of
Episcopacy. In the end of 1600, James was again
residing at Falkland, when the Gowrie conspiracy,
as it has been called, took place. The king, one
morning, was about to mount his horse, to follow
his favourite sport, when the mysterious message
was delivered to him by Alexander Ruthven, bro-
ther to the Earl of Gowrie, which led to the death
of both these young noblemen. In 1617, when
James, now king of Great Britain, visited Scotland,
he, in his progress through the kingdom, paid his
last visit to Falkland. In 1633, when Charles I.
visited Scotland, he slept three nights here, on his
way to Perth ; and on his return, he slept two nights
in going to Edinburgh, and created several gentle-
men of the county knights on the occasion. Upon
the 6th of July, 1650, Charles II., who had returned
from the continent on the 23d of the preceding
month, visited Falkland, where he resided some
days, receiving the homage of that part of his sub-
jects who were desirous of his restoration to the
Crown of his ancestors ; and here he again returned,
after his coronation at Scone, on the 22d of Jan-
uary, 1651, and remained some days.*
in the neighbourhood of which there was a small wood where
stags were kept, whither, or at least to its vicinity, she daily
resorted with a slender retinue, it was said that she might be
surprised without any difficulty. At this time it was thought
that they might easily destroy Murray, while unarmed, and
without suspicion; and thus obtain possession of her Majesty's
person. According to Knox, this charge of treason was ex-
hibited by Arran, in 1562. He seems, however, to think that
tlte charge originated from the frenzy of this nobleman.
* After describing his Majesty's progress from the north
where he landed, by Dundee to St. AudrevvH, and thence to
Cupar, Lament, in his Diary, page 20, says : — " After this he
went to Faklande all night. All this tyroe the most pairt of
the gentlemen of the shyre did goe alongs with him. The tyme
that he abode at Faklande, he went downe one day and dyned
at the E. of Wemyes' house, and another att Lesley with the
E. of Rothus. * * * From St. Johnstou he cam to
Faklande, Jan. 22, 1651. — Sir James Balfour, in Ins Annals of
Scotland, says: — "The 5 of Julij 1(550 his Maiie cam frum St.
Andrews, and wes banqueted in Couper to his auen housse of
Falkland on Saterday. My L. the Earle of Aruudaill iuter-
The oldest portion of the palace, which was erected
either by James III. or James IV., forms the south
front, and is still partially inhabited. On each floor
there are six windows, square-topped, and divided
by mullions into two lights. Between the windows,
the front is supported by buttresses, enriched with
niches, in which statues were placed, the mutilated
remains of which are still to be seen, and terminat-
ing in ornamented pinnacles which rise considerably
above the top of the wall. The lower floor is the
part inhabited, and the upper floor is entirely occu-
pied by a large hall, anciently the chapel of the
palace. The western part of this front of the palace
is in the castellated style, and of greater height
than the other; it is ornamented with two round
towers, between which is a lofty archway which
forms the entrance to the court-yard behind, and
which, in former times, was secured by strong doors,
and could be defended from the towers which flank
it. James V. made great additions to the palace,
and appears to have erected two ranges of building,
equal in size to that described, on the east and north
sides of the court-yard. As completed by him, there-
fore, the palace occupied three sides of a square court,
the fourth or western side being enclosed by a lofty
wall. The range of building on the north side of the
court has now entirely disappeared, and of that on
the west, the bare walls alone remain ; these two
portions of the palace having been accidentally de-
stroyed by fire in the reign of Charles II. Having
erected his addition to the palace, in the Corinthian
style of architecture, James assimilated the inner
front of the older part of the building, by erecting a
new facade in the same style with the rest of the
building. The building consisted of two stories, a
basement or lower floor, and a principal one, the
windows of which are large and elegant, when we
consider the period. Between the windows, the
facade is ornamented with finely proportioned Co-
rinthian pillars, having rich capitals ; and above the
windows are medallions, presenting a series of heads
carved in high relief, some of which are beautifully
executed, and would lead us to believe that more
than native talent had been engaged in the work.
On the top of the basement which supports the pil-
lars, the initials of the king, and of his queen, Mary
of Guise, are carved alternately. The architect who
designed this building, and superintended its erec-
tion, was in all probability Sir James Hamilton of
Finnart, a natural son of the 1st Earl of Arran, who
was cup-bearer to James V., steward of the house-
hold, and superintendent of the royal palaces. He
was accused of high treason, fried, convicted, and
executed as a traitor, in August, 1540. The palace
of Falkland, deserted by its royal inmates, was for h.
long series of years suffered to fall into decay :
*' The fretted roof looked dark and cold,
And tottered all around ;
The carved work of ageB old
Dropped uither'd on the ground ;
The casement's antique tracery
Was eaten by the dew :
And the night-breeze, whistling mournfully,
Crept keen and coldly through."
It is now the property of Mr, Bruce, who takes great
tained until Monday at night. Falkland 9 Julij. I deuyssed for
the impresse to be putt on hes Majesties coronation pices at lies
command ; hes face to be ODe the one syde of it, with this cir-
cumscription— 'Carol: Seeundus, D. G. Scot- Auyl: Fran:
et Hyber: Hex, Fidei defensor,' fee..; and on the reversse, a
lyoue rampant, holding in his paw a thistell of 3 stems, with
this circuinscriptione, ' Nemo me impune lacessit;' aDd below-
the lyons footte one the lembe, 'Corouat : Die Mensis Ao l(>50.'
* * * Mr. Thomas Nicolsone, his Maiesties
Aduocat, wes knighted in the withdrauiug roume at Falkland,
after supper on Wednesday, the 10 of Julij instant. His Ma-
jesty 6tayed at Falkland wntill Tuesday the 23 of Julij, from
quhence he did remoue to Perthc for one night, quher he wes
feasted wilh all his traiue by the magistrats."
FAL
526
FAR
interest in its careful preservation, as well as in or-
namenting the court-yard with flowers and shrubs,
and the ground in its immediate neighbourhood,
which he has laid out as a garden. The view from
the southern parapet of the palace has long been ad-
mired, and as it can now be attained not only with
safety but even without any apprehension of danger,
it will be often resorted to and enjoyed. On the one
hand, the Lomond hills spread out their green sides,
and point their conical summits to the sky ; on the
other, the whole strath of Eden, the Howe of Fife
from Cupar to Strathmiglo, lies open and exposed ;
and whilst the spectator will naturally inquire after
and regret the woods of Falkland, he will find that
the present proprietor is doing all that he can to
make up for the spoliations of Cromwell's soldiery.
There is a large plain, on the east of the palace, in
which a little knoll rises here and there above the
level. This consists of moss, which has lately been
well-drained ; exhibiting the remains of what was call-
ed the Rose loch, — the knolls having been islets. The
water of this lake must then have washed that part
of the building which was discovered at the bottom
of the garden. Some, yet surviving, say they have
shot wild ducks on this locb. It might reasonably
be supposed, that, while Falkland continued to be
the occasional residence of royalty, it was not only
a place of resort to the higher classes, but that the
peasantry would be permitted to enjoy that festivity
here which was most congenial to their humours.
As it was a favourite residence of that mirthful
prince James V., it might well be conjectured, from
his peculiar habits, that he would be little disposed
to debar from its purlieus those with whom he was
wont frequently to associate in disguise. Accord-
ingly,— although it is still matter of dispute among
our poetical antiquaries, whether the palm should
not rather be given to his ancestor James I., — one
of the most humorous effusions of the Scottish muse,
which contains an express reference to the jovial
scenes of the vulgar at Falkland, has, with great pro-
bability, been ascribed to the fifth of this name :
Was ne vir in Scotland hard nor sene
Sic dansin nor deray,
Nouthir at Falkland on the Grene,
Nor Pebillis at the l'lay,
As wes of wowaris, as 1 wene,
At Christis kirk on ane day : &c
Christis Kirk on the Grene, St. i.
According to Allan Ramsay, and the learned Callander,
' Chrystis Kirk ' is the kirktown of Leslie, near Falk-
land. Others have said, with less probabiUty, that it
belongs to the parish of Lesly, in that part of the county
of Aberdeen called the Garrioch. Pinkerton thinks
that, besides the poems of ' Christis Kirk,' and ' Peblis
to the Play,' a third one, of the same description, had
been written, which is now lost, celebrating the fes-
tivities of 'Falkland on the Grene.' This phrase-
ology might refer to what has been called ' the park
at Falkland.' Sir David Lyndsay, being attached to
the court, must have passed much of his time at this
royal residence. According to his own account — not-
withstanding the badness of the ale brewed in the
burgh — he led a very pleasant life here ; for, in the
language of anticipation, he bids adieu to the beau-
ties of Falkland in these terms :
Fare Weill, Falkland, the forteress of Fyfe,
Thy polite park, under the Lowraoiind law:
Sum tyine in the, 1 led a lustie lyfe,
The fallow deir, to se tharae raik on raw.
Court men to cum to the, thay stand grait aw,
Sayand, thy burgh bene of all burrowis bail],
Because, in the, they never gat gude aill.
Complaynt ofllie Pnpingo.
FALLOCH (The), a rivulet of Perthshire and
Dumbartonshire. It rises on the north-east side of
Benchroan, on the southern limit of the parish of
Killin, runs 3h miles northward to Coilater-More ;
it there turns abruptly round, and thence runs 3J miles
south-west, receiving on its right bank the waters of
Auld-Ennochbay and Auld-Churn, the former coming
3{ miles from Loch Suss, and the latter 5} miles
from Mealmicran ; and after its confluence with Auld
Churn, it flows 2 miles due south to the head of
Loch Lomond. Its entire length of course is up-
wards of 9 miles ; and its motion is throughout rapid
and garrulous. From Coilater-More downward, it
flows along a romantic glen to which it gives its
name, overlooked by high mountains, the lower ac-
clivities of which, for some way, as well as up the
vale of Auld Churn, are clothed in plantation.
FALSIDE. See Inveresk.
FANNICH (Loch), a lake in the wilds of Ross-
shire, about 12 miles in length, and from 1 to 1£ in
breadth. It discharges itself by a small river into
Loch-Luichart, which empties itself by the river
Conon into the frith of Cromarty.
FANNYSIDE MOOR. See Cumbernauld.
FAR, or Farr, a mountainous parish in Suther-
landshire ; extending about 40 miles in length from
north-east to south-west, the breadth varying from
3 to 20 miles. It is wholly the property of the Duke
of Sutherland ; and is chiefly laid out in sheep-walks.
It is bounded on the north by the Northern ocean ;
on the east by Reay and Kildonan parishes ; on the
south by Kildonan, Clyne, Rogart, and Lairgs ; and
on the west by Edderachylis and Tongue. The soil
is in general barren and shallow, but on the banks of
the rivers Naver and Borgie it is deep, and tolerably
fertile. Strathnaver extends from the coast to the
roots of Beinchlibrig, a distance of above 30 miles.
The extent of sea-coast is 13 miles; the shore is
high and rocky, and consists of Strathy-head and
bay, Armidale-bay, Far-head and bay, and several
other smaller promontories and bays. The whole
coast is excavated into extensive caves ; which afford
retreat to immense numbers of seals. Loch Naver
[which see] is the principal lake in the district, and
there are several smaller lakes from which rise a few
rivulets. Beinchlibrig, the highest mountain in the
district, is in the south-west extremity of the parish.
There are a few Pictish castles, and a ruin on the
promontory of Far-head. " Betwixt Far and Kirto-
my, in this parish," says Pennant, " is a most singu-
lar curiosity, well worth the pains of a traveller to
view, being the remains of an old square building or
tower, called Borve, standing upon a small point
joined to the continent by a narrow neck of land not
10 feet wide. This point or head is very high, con-
sisting of rock, and some gravel on the top ; on both
sides is very deep water, and a tolerable harbour for
boats. This tower seems to be built by the Norwe-
gians ; and the tradition is that one Thorkel, or Tor-
quil, a warrior mentioned by Torfsus, was the per-
son that built it. They speak likewise of a lady
that was concealed there ; she is said to be an Ork-
ney woman, and Thorkel was an Orkney man. But
what is most curious, is, that through the rock upon
which the tower stands, there is a passage below of
200 feet in length, like a grand arch or vault, through
which they row a boat. The writer has been one of
a company that rowed through it. The passage is
so long, that when you enter at one end, you fancy
that there is no possibility to get out at the other,
and vice versa. How this hard rock was thus bored
or excavated, I cannot say; but it is one of the most
curious natural arches, perhaps, in the known world."
Population in 1801, 2,408; in 1831, 2,073. The
decrease in the population is to be attributed to ex-
tensive emigration. Houses, in 1831,417. Assessed
property, in 1815, £2,371 This parish is in the pres-
FAR
527
FAR
bytery of Tongue, and Synod of Sutherland and
Caithness. Patron, the Duke of Sutherland. Sti-
pend £166 14s. 8d. ; glebe £8. Church built in
1774; sittings 750.-^There is a Government church
at Strathy, 10 miles east from the parish-church.
There are 4 schools in the parish.
FARA, a small island of the Hebrides, lying be-
tween Barra and South TJist.
. FARA, one of the small Orkney islands, about a
mile south-east of Hoy.
FARAY, or Fairay, and sometimes Pharav,
one of the Orkney islands, about a mile long, and
half-a-mile broad, separated by a narrow sound from
the island of Ed at : which see. It affords excellent
pasture.
FARE, a hill forming the southern boundary of
the parish of Mid- Mar, Aberdeenshire. It rises from
a base of 1 7 miles in circumference, to an eminence
1,793 feet above sea-level. It affords excellent pas-
ture for numerous flocks of sheep, producing mutton
of a very superior flavour. The interior part contains
valuable moss for fuel, and its luxuriant and beauti-
ful heaths abound in muir-fowl, hares, and other
game. Here are chalybeate springs, the water of
which is dyed of a deep black by a small infusion of
tea, as is the case of the well-known medical spring at
Peterhead. " In the middle of this eminence," says
the writer of the old Statistical Account of the parish,
" is the vale of Corrichie, well-known as the scene
of battle, wherein the contending parties were head-
ed by the Marquis of Huntly, and the Earl of Murray.
Huntly fell in this engagement, in which his forces
were routed by those of his antagonist, the general
of the unfortunate Mary. A small possession, on the
north side of the hill, retains, at this day, the name
of Craig-Hume, in memory of one of that family,
who was slain in that battle, and is interred in the
neighbourhood. It is proper also to observe here,
that the name of Queen's Chair, is given to an exca-
vation— I know not whether natural or artificial — on
the side of a rock near this valley. Here Mary is
said to have sat, while returning southwards from
Aberdeen, to view the scene of the recent engage-
ment. In the neighbourhood of this spot, a remark-
able echo is occasioned by the contiguity of three
small eminences."
FARG (The), a rivulet in the extreme east of
Perthshire. It rises among the Ochil hills, on the
boundary between the parishes of Forgandinny and
Arngask; traces that boundary southward for li
mile ; then suddenly debouches, and, for 2J- miles
eastward, traces the boundary between Perthshire
and Kinross-shire ; then, after another sudden bend,
traces for 2J miles north-eastward, the boundary
between Perthshire and Fifeshire, passing the church
of Arngask, and carrying down the turnpike from
Edinburgh to Perth along its banks. It now runs
into Perthshire and soon enters Strathearn, and,
after a northerly course of 3i or 4 miles from the
point of its leaving the boundary of the county, loses
itself in the river Earn at Culfargie. Its entire
length of course is about 1 0 J miles ; and till it reaches
Strathearn, it flows, in general, along a deep and
narrow glen.
FARNELL, FARNWELL, or FERNELL,* a
parish in the eastern division of Forfarshire. It is
bounded on the north hy the river South Esk, which
divides it from Brechin ; on the east by Maryton and
Craig; on the south by Kinnell; and on the west
by Kinnell and Brechin. The district occupies the
* The ancient and true orthography of the parish, is Fernell ;
hut it is usually written Farnall, or Farnwell. Fernell is said
to be of Gaelic origin; fern signifying, in that language, *a
den,* and ne/lt 'a swan;' so that it should seem to have de-
rived its name from an adjoining den, which, at that time, had
been tile abode of swans.
centre of a strath, which extends eastward about 5
miles to Montrose ; and — with the exception of a hilly
ridge of inconsiderable height which rises in the south-
west, and forks away in two lines into the parishes of
Maryton and Craig — is, in general, flat. The soil on
the rising grounds and in the west, is of an inferior
quality, consisting chiefly of light black earth ; but,
in the other parts of the parish, it is a very fine clay
and rich loam, equal to the best soil in Scotland, and
very much resembling that of the carse of Gowrie
between Perth and Dundee. The South Esk, along
the northern boundary, has tastefully wooded banks,
and opulent in its fishery. Pow water rises in
numerous head-waters among moorlands south and
west of the parish, and sometimes brings down upon
the eastern district, before disemboguing into the
Esk, such inundating freshets as overflow the fields,
break down the fences, and spread around extensive
though temporary desolation. In the western divi-
sion is a moorland of 1,500 or 1,600 acres covered
with plantation. On the north side of the church,
near the centre of the parish, stands an ancient cas-
tle, kept in repair as a sort of parochial work-house,
which was formerly the seat of the Ogilvies of Air-
lie. Sir James Carnegie, Bart, of South Esk, is the
proprietor of the whole district. His seat, Kinnaird
castle, situated in the north, has a very magnificent
and rich appearance. It is built in the form of a
square, with a tower at each angle, and surrounded
by a spacious lawn and the numerous decorations of
a tasteful and fascinating demesne. The parish has
neither town, nor village, inn, nor ale-house ; and
suffers no retardation of its rapid career of improve-
ment and prosperity by wanting the appliances of
spirituous stimulation. A recently formed road be-
tween Montrose and Forfar intersects it for 2 miles,
and various other roads amply provide it with fa-
cilities of communication, Population, in 1801,
576; in 1831, 582. Houses 109. Assessed property,
in 1815, £16,022.— Farnell is in the presbytery of
Brechin, and synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron,
the Crown. Stipend £250 10s. 5d. ; glebe £20, with
the privilege of feal and divot. Unappropriated
teinds £652 15s. lOd. Schoolmaster's salary £30,
with £13 10s. school-fees, and £4 15s. 3Jd. other
emoluments. A non-parochial school is taught by
two females. The district of Kinnaird, forming the
western division, was disjoined from Farnell, and
erected into a separate parish, about the year 1633 ;
but, excepting a small part which was incorporated
with Brechin, it was reannexed by the court of ses-
sion in 1787. The parish-church was built in 1806.
Sittings 330. A parochial library, consisting of po-
pular religious works, is creditably used.
FAROUT-HEAD, a conspicuous promontory in
the parish of Durness, Sutherlandshire. See Dur-
ness.
FARRALINE (Loch), a small sheet of water
in the high mountains on the east side of Loch-Ness,
in the parish of Dores; on the left of the road lead-
ing from the top of Strathnairn into Stratherrick ;
16 miles from the Perth road; and 2| from the
banks of Loch-Ness, by the pass of Inverfarrakaig.
In May 1841, as some men were engaged in the
drainage of part of this loch, they came upon a quan-
tity of old fire-arms, a brass blunderbuss in excellent
preservation, about a dozen of muskets, the scabbard
of a sword, and several other articles. " There has
been a tradition among the people of the district
for many years," says the editor of the ' Inverness
Courier,' " that a quantity of arms was thrown into
the lake at the stormy period of the rebellion in
1745, which seems to be confirmed by this occur-
rence. In the immediate neighbourhood, is the
house of Gortuleg, which, in 1745, was the property
FAR
528
FAS
of the chamberlain and agent of Lord Lovat. Old
Lovat himself resided at Gortuleg at this interesting
time, and hence we may suppose took place this
accumulation of fire-arms which were afterwards
thrown into the loch when the battle of Culloden
had decided the fate of the Jacobites. It is well-
known that, after his defeat, Prince Charles retreated
through Strathnairn — a district possessed by the
clan Mackintosh, of whom their leader, and every
individual of rank, had fallen in the action — and
came towards evening to the house of Fraser of Gor-
tuleg. Lovat had prepared a sumptuous feast in
anticipation of victory. The house was crowded
with the retainers of Charles Edward and Lovat,
and, connected with this, Mr. Fraser used to relate
a touching and striking anecdote. The children of
the family were, for convenience, placed in a small
room between the Prince's chamber and another,
but which had communication with both. The
whispers of the children, afraid to speak out, pro-
duced a suspicion in the mind of Charles that he had
been betrayed, and he exclaimed, with agitation,
' Open the door ! open the door !' One of the boys
having complied with his request, the unfortunate
prince presented a countenance so strongly marked
with terror, that its features were indelibly impressed
on the minds of his juvenile beholders. One of them
described, in vivid terms, the fair oval face and blue
eye, distended with fear and agitation, of the tall
handsome young wanderer. Seeing his mistake,
Charles gave way to the pathetic exclamation — ' How
hard is my fate, when the innocent prattle of chil-
dren can alarm me so much !' words which long
dwelt in their memories, and often moved the house-
hold to tears. Charles was too much agitated to
think of rest. He changed his dress, and, taking a
glass of wine, left the house at 10 o'clock at night
for Invergarry, the seat of Macdonell of Glengarry."
FARRER (The), an important branch of the
river Beauly in Inverness-shire. It rises in Loch
Monar, on the north-west point of the county, and
flows eastwards through Glen-Farrer until it joins
the Glass, the other main branch of the Beauly, near
Erchless castle. A little above the junction of the
two streams, nearly opposite Strtiey, 10 miles from
Beauly, there is a fine bridge across the Farrer, by
which the road from Beauly is carried into Strath-
glass. There is a graphite or black-lead mine in
Glen-Farrer, of which the following account, is given
in ' The New Philosophical Journal.' " Nearly op-
posite to Struey, beautiful veins of red granite are to
be seen traversing the gneiss strata, which range from
north-east to south-east, and dip to the south, and
generally at a pretty high angle. The glen to the
black-lead mine, appears — as far as we had an oppor-
tunity of examining it, in our rapid journey — to be
principally composed of gneiss, which frequently,
when the quartz predominates, passes into mica-slate.
It is sometimes grooved, with projections fitting into
these grooves, as we have observed to be the case
with quartz-rock, sandstone, and even trap-rock.
We did not reach the black-lead mine until 12
o'clock, the distance being greater from Beauly than
we had calculated on: it proving to be 20 or 22
miles. The excessive heat of the day, and the tor-
ment of the midges, was intolerable. My face, lips,
and eyes were speedily distorted by them, and one
of my eyes fairly closed up. The rock in which the
graphite or black-lead occurs is gneiss, in which the
direction is a little to the east of north, and dip west
80°. The gneiss in some places is very micaceous,
contains garnets, and here and there is traversed by
veins of granite. The graphite is not in beds or
veins, but in masses imbedded in the gneiss. The
first mass, or bed, as it is called, is fully three feet
thick where broadest. The whole mass appeared to
be scaly foliated; no regular crystals were observed,
although, judging from the crystalline nature of the
deposit, I think it probable that in cavities varie-
ties of its regular form — which is rhomboidal — will
be met with. It is not throughout pure, but is oc-
casionally mixed with the gneiss, which occurs either
in apparent fragments, or its ingredients, especially
felspar, are disseminated in grains or crystals."
FAST CASTLE, a relic of feudal ages, situated
on the verge of a lofty rock which overhangs the
German ocean, near St. Abb's Head, in the parish of
Coldingham, in Berwickshire. It is a tower surround-
ed by flanking walls, and accessible only by one path,
which is but a few feet wide, and is bordered on
either hand by frowning precipices. It was an ancient
fortress of the Earls of Hume. In 1410, it was held
by Thomas Holden, and an English garrison, who
had long infested the country by their pillaging ex-
cursions, when Patrick, son of the Earl of Dunbar,
with a hundred followers, took the castle and cap-
tured the governor. According to Holinshed, Fast
castle again fell into the hands of the English, but was
recovered by the following stratagem in 1548: " The
captain of Fast castle had commanded the husband-
men adjoining to bring thither, at a certain day, great
store of victuals. The young men thereabouts hav-
ing that occasion, assembled thither at the day ap-
pointed, who taking their burdens from their horses,
and laying them on their shoulders, were allowed to
pass the bridge, which joined two high rocks, into
the castle ; where laying down that which they
brought, they suddenly, by a sign given, set upon
the keepers of the gate, slew them, and before the
other Englishmen could be assembled, possessed the
other places, weapons, and artillery of the castle, and
then receiving the rest of the company into the same,
through the same great and open gate, they wholly-
kept and enjoyed the castle for their countrymen."
Sir Nicolas Throgmorton, in 1567, characterizes it
as a place "fitter to lodge prisoners than folks at.
liberty;" and, in 1570, when only tenanted by ten
Scots, Drury, Marshal of Berwick, after taking Home
castle, was sent to invest Fast castle with 2,000 men,
it being the next principal place that belonged to
Lord Home. " In the reign of James VI.," says Sir
Walter Scott, in his ' Provincial Antiquities,' " Fast
castle became the appropriate stronghold of one of
the darkest characters of that dark age, the celebrated
Logan of Restalrig. There is a contract existing in
the charter-chest of Lord Napier, betwixt Logan and
a very opposite character, the celebrated inventor of
the logarithms, the terms of which are extremely
singular. The paper is dated, July 1694, and sets
forth, ' Forasmuch as there were old reports and ap-
pearances that a sum of money was hid within John
Logan's house of Fast castle, John Napier should do
his utmost diligence to search and seek out, and by-
all craft and ingine to find out the same; and, by the
grace of God, shall either find out the same, or make
it sure that no such thing has been there.' For his
reward he was to have the exact third of what was
found, and to be safely guarded by Logan back to
Edinburgh. And in case he should find nothing, after
all trial and diligence taken, he refers the satisfaction
of his travel and pains to the discretion of Logan,"
Logan was next engaged in the mysterious plot of
the Gowrie conspiracy. It was proposed to force
the king into a boat from the bottom of the garden
of Gowrie-house, and thence conduct him by sea to
that ruffian's castle, there to await the disposal of
Elizabeth or of the conspirators. Logan's connec-
tion with this affair was not known till nine years
after his death, when the correspondence betwixt bin:
and the Earl of Gowrie was discovered in the pos-
FEA
529
FEA
session of Sprott, a notary public, who bad stolen
tbern from one John Bour, to wbom tbey were in-
trusted. Sprott was executed, and Logan was con-
demned for bigb treason, even after bis death, bis
bones having been brought into court for that. pur-
pose. See article Dikleton.
FEACHAN (Loch), an arm of the sea in Argyle-
shire, in the district of Lorn.
FEACHLIN (The). See Foyers.
. FEACHORY (The), a rivulet in Athol, Perth-
shire. It rises in two springs 3 miles asunder, the
one north, and the other south of Craigvad, near the
eastern limit of the parish of Fortingall. The two
head waters having flowed respectively south-east and
north-east over a distance of 2h miles to a conflu-
ence, the united stream runs due east, dividing For-
tingall from Blair- Athol for 2 miles, and then enter-
ing the latter parish, it intersects it for 7J miles, as-
suming in the lower part of its course the name of
Erockkie water, and falls into the Garry at Strowan.
Its entire length of course is 13 miles.
FEARN,* a parish of small extent in the county
of Ross, forming a square of about 2 miles ; bounded
on the south by Nigg ; on the west by Loggie (Easter) ;
on the north by Tain; and on the east and south by
Tarbet and the Moray frith. The surface is nearly
flat, with the exception of a few eminences which
are nearly all under cultivation. In the centre of
the parish the soil is a deep loam ; towards the south
and west it is a rich clay ; the north and east parts
are sandy. The average rent of land per acre in
1792, was 15s. per acre ; it is now 32s. The valued
rent is £4,037 12s. lid. Scots; the real rental is above
£5,000. Assessed property, in 1815, £1,859. Loch
Eye, a sheet of water about 2 miles in length, and
half-a-mile broad, occupies the central district. The
coast on the Moray frith is flat and sandy for about a
mile ; on it are the small fishing towns of Balintore and
Hilltown. The remainder of the coast is bold and
rocky. The village of Fearn is situated near the site
of the old abbey, which is a ruin of great antiquity,
founded by Ferguard, first Earl of Ross, in the reign
of Alexander II. It was annexed to the bishopric of
Ross in 1607 by James VI. Patrick Hamilton, abbot
of this place, for his adherence to the doctrines of the
Reformation, was burnt before the gate of St. Salva-
dor's college, St. Andrews, in 1527. The revenue of
this house, in 1561, was £165 7s. Hd. ; bear 30 cb., 2
bolls, 2 pecks ; oats 1 ch., 6 bolls. The abbey is tradi-
tionally said to have been at "first made up of mud.
The principal part of it was 99 feet in length, within
walls ; 25i feet in breadth; and the walls 24 feet high
above the ground. The abbacy was not only the place
of worship before the Reformation, but ever since, un-
til October 1742, when, on a sudden, in time of pub-
lic worship, the roof fell in. There were 36 persons
killed instantly, by what fell in of the roof and slate,
on that melancholy occasion ; 8 more died soon after.
— The castle of Lochlin, in the north-east corner of
the parish, is another remarkable building. It is said
to be of 500 years' standing. It stands upon an emi-
nence, about one mile north-east of the loch of Eye,
and about six miles east from Tain, and is indeed
one of the most conspicuous objects in this country.
It was certainly built as a place of security against
sudden incursions in the days of violence. Its
shape resembles two figures, nearly square, joined
together by the corners, in which junction there
is a staircase to the top : the lesser one, which
looks towards the west, being about 20, and the
greater, which looks towards the east, about 38 feet
square. The castle is 60 feet high. It is fortified
with three large turrets, of which, one stands upon
* This name i3 supposed to be derived from the Gaelic
Fearnn, ' an Alder tree.'
I.
the lesser square, and two upon the greater. These
turrets are each of them capable of holding three or
more men with ease; and in each of them are five
small round holes, of about four inches diameter,
with three larger above them, of a quadrangular
form. The latter, it is imagined, were intended for
the sentries or watchmen to see through, and the
others for shooting of arrows. The outer door of the
kitchen was made of strong bars of iron, as thick as
an ordinary man's leg, and the windows were closed
with small grates or twisted staunchions of iron, so
that it may be readily supposed that it was almost im-
pregnable at the period in which it was erected
There is another very ancient castle, that of Cad-
boll, equally old, if not older than either the abbacy
or the castle of Lochlin. There are little remains
of it now, but two or three vaults. There is a very
singular and remarkable tradition concerning this
castle, that though it was inhabited for ages, yet
never any person died in it ; and many of those who
lived in it, wished to be brought out of it, as they
longed for death, especially Lady May, who resided
there about 100 years ago ; being long sick, and long-
ing for death, she desired to be brought out of her
castle, which at last was accordingly done, and no
sooner did she come out of it, than she expired."
[Old Statistical Account.] — Not far from the abbey,
a high square column is erected, covered all over
with Saxon characters, but illegible. It is said that
the celebrated lawyer, Sir George Mackenzie, king's
advocate in the reign of Charles II., was born in the
castle of Lochlin. Population, in 1801, 1,528; in
1831, 1,695. Houses 376. — This parish, formerly a
vicarage, is in the presbytery of Tain, and synod of
Ross. Patron, the Crown. Stipend £205 13s. 8d;
glebe £9. Unappropriated Crown teinds £242 8s.
lOd Schoolmaster's salary £36 7s. ljd. There is
one private school.
FEARN, or Fern, a parish near the centre of
Forfarshire. It is of an ellipsoidal form, and mea-
sures in extreme length 6% miles, and in extreme
breadth 3 miles. It, is bounded on the north by
Lethnot ; on the east by Menmuir and Careston ;
and on the south and west by Tannadice." The
south-eastern section, comprising about one-fourth
of the area, is a patch of Strathmore, rich and
fertile in its soil, and gently sloping in its surface.
The other sections consist of two parallel ridges,
the northern higher than the southern, and send-
ing off spurs toward the first summit of the Gram-
pians; and two tracts of valley overlooked respec-
tively by the ridges. The hills and the northern
valley afford excellent pasturage for the sheep, while
the southern valley is adapted to tillage, and resem-
bles, in soil, the low grounds on the strath. Cruick
water rises in two head-streams at the northern
boundary, runs down the middle of the parish south-
ward over two-thirds of its length, then debouches
to the east, and leaves it near Balmaditty; wearing,
over the whole of this course, an unsurpassably tame
appearance, having scarcely a shrub to apologize for
the utter nudity of its banks. Noran water, after
flowing parallel with the parish over nearly its whole
length, suddenly turns round and comes down upon
it from the west, and forms, over its whole breadth,
the boundary-line on the south ; and, so long as it
touches Fearn, it is remarkably pellucid in its wa-
ters, and not a little beautiful in its banks. On the
brink of this stream, at a point where it rushes
through a romantic little dell, stand the ruins of
Vain castle, supposed to have been built by Cardinal
Beaton. The writer of the article Fearn in the New
Statistical Account of Scotland, gives a description of
a truly remarkable antiquity, — a human abode which
is referable to an epoch many generations earlier than
2 L
FED
530
«FER
the introduction of Gothic architecture to the coun-
try. The upper part of the parish is wholly unpro-
vided with facilities of communication ; and the lower
part possesses only such roads as would he a nuisance
in a less sequestered district. Population, in 1801,
448; in 1S31, 450. Houses 88. Assessed property,
in 1815, £753. — Fearn is in the presbytery of Bre-
chin, and synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend £155 3s. 5d. ; glebe £18 18s.,
witi the privilege of cutting peat and divot. School-
master's salary £28 12s. 6d., with £13 10s. school-
fees, and a house and the legal garden-ground.
FEDDERATT CASTLE. See Deer (New).
FEDDICH. See Fiddich.
FENELLA'S CASTLE. See Fettercairn.
FENTON, See Dirleton.
FENWICK, a parish in the district of Cunning-
ham, Ayrshire ; bounded on the north by Renfrew-
shire ; on the east by Loudon ; on the south by
Kilmarnock ; and on the west by Stewarton. It is
about 9 miles long from east to west, and 6 miles
broad, and contains an area of 14,500 acres. Though
high above the level of the sea, it is not mountainous ;
and seen from the hills of Craigie in Kyle, it ap-
pears a large plain ; but it possesses, in reality, a
sloping surface, inclining easily from its boundary
with Renfrewshire to the south-west, and command-
ing, on many spots, or from almost every farm and
every house, extensive views toward Kyle and Car-
rick, the frith of Clyde, and the Arran and Argyle-
shire mountains. At a former period the district was
almost all a fen or bog ; and, in 1 642 — when it was
disjoined from Kilmarnock, and erected into a sepa-
rate parish — was considered as a moorland region.
Except in the southern or lower division, the soil in
every part is still mossy ; and nearly one-fourth of
the entire parish continues to be hog. All the sur-
face of the reclaimed sections, though thinly sheltered
with plantation, has a verdant and cultivated aspect,
and is distributed chiefly into meadow and natural
pasture, with about 1,600 acres of tillage. The live
stock consists of nearly equal numbers of sheep and
milk cows, a considerable proportion of pigs, and
about 160 horses. The climate, though humid, is
not unhealthy. Two small brooks, each having tiny
tributaries, rise in the northern limits of the parish
and flow south-westward through it to make a
confluence after entering the parish of Kilmarnock.
The brooks abound with trouts, but possess no
scenic beauties. A thin seam of coal and a free-
stone quarry occur on the western limits. Lime-
stone is abundant, and exhibits numerous marine
shells, and other memorials of the ancient inhabitants
of tlie ocean. The great road from Glasgow to Kil-
marnock traverses the parish in a direction west of
south, and sends off one branch-road southward to
Galston, and another westward to Stewarton The
village of Fenwick stands on the Glasgow road, at
the point where that to Stewarton branches off,
nearly 4 miles north by east from Kilmarnock; and
is a considerable agglomeration of small houses occu-
pied almost all by weavers as dwelling-houses and
work-shops. Here are the parish-church, and a
capacious meeting-house of the United Secession.
Another village, called Rose-Fenwick, similar in
character to Fenwick, but smaller, stands half-a-
inile south of it on the Glasgow road. Population
of the parish, in 1801, 1,280; in 1831, 2,018. Houses
279. Assessed property, in 1815, £8,987 — Fenwick
is in the presbytery of Irving, and synod of Glasgow
and Ayr. Patron, the Earl of Glasgow. Stipend
£149 8s. Id. ; glebe £23. Unappropriated teinds
£132 17s. 5d. Schoolmaster's salary £25 13s. 3d.,
with from £15 to £18 school-fees, and about £3
other emoluments. There are three schools not
parochial, attended by a maximum of 137 scholars.
Maximum attendance at the parish-school 68 Fen-
wick, for some time after its establishment as a sepa-
rate parish, was called New Kilmarnock ; but it
eventually acquired its present descriptive name,
which means the village of the fen This parish is
celebrated for having enjoyed the ministry of the
devout though eccentric Guthrie, not the least of
Scotland's worthies, a firm assertor of the cause of
Presbyterianism under the persecuting innovations
of the Stuarts, and the author of writings which have
shed the light of heaven over the hearts and minds of
the inmates of many a cottage In this parish is the
venerable dwelling of the Howies of Lochgoin, that
during the persecution frequently afforded an asylum
to those who for conscience' sake were obliged to flee
from their homes, — to such men as Captain Paton,
and to many such worthy ministers as the intrepid
Richard Cameron, which rendered this house so ob-
noxious that, during these trying periods, it was
twelve times plundered, and the inmates forced to
take refuge in the barren muirs around. Here are
preserved many of the relics of those days of "fiery
trial," in the Bible and the sword used by Captain
Paton, — the flag of Fenwick parish, — the drum beat
at the battle of Drumclog, &c. If antiquity can add
any lustre to birth, the present generation of the
Howies may lay claim to a remote ancestry ; being
descended from the great "VYaldenses, three brothers
of whom, of the name of Howie — probably Houy,
still common in France — fled for safety and settled
in Ayrshire, in 1178. One of these brothers took
up his residence in Lochgoin, and his posterity to
this day inhabit the same spot, retaining all the pri-
mitive and pastoral habits which distinguished the
Waldenses. The father of the present generation,
John Howie, compiler of the lives of the ' Scots
Worthies,' will be remembered by every Scotsman
with a peculiar interest, in having furnished his coun-
try with short though valuable sketches of the most
remarkable transactions of those who suffered for the
covenanted work of reformation.
FERGUS (St.),* a parish politically belonging to
Banffshire,f but situated in the district of Buchan, }:
* This parish was originally named Inverurie, and occa-
Bioutdly Lagley, uutil 1616, when tin? name — fi»r what reason .s
not known — was changed to St. Fergus. We may here ob-
serve that the Rev. John Craigie, writer of the Old Statistical
Account of St. Fergus, and minister of the parish, in stating that
the common patois, or "dialect, called Broad Buchans, is spoken
here," as it still continues to be, although it is now losing much
of its provincial peculiarity, and that " it is thought to approach
nearer to the ancient 
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